CONTENTS. 


ILLUMINATIONS  AND  FULL-PAGE  ILLUSTRATIONS. 
facing 


PAGE. 

NATURE  IN  THE  NORTH,    facing       .  i 

NATURE  IN  THE  SOUTH,     ....  i 

THE  FLAGS  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES,  4 
GEOGRAPHICAL  MAP  OF  THE  U.  S.,    8,  9 

HISTORICAL  MAP  OF  THE  U.  S.:       .  10 

WEST  POINT, l8 

THE  MILITARY  SERVICE,    ....  19 

ANNAPOLIS, 22 

THE  NAVAL  SERVICE, 23 

THE  PRESIDENTS  PORTRAYED,     .     .  15 

YOSEMITE  VALLEY, 75 


WASHINGTON,  D.  C., i5» 

WASHINGTON,  D.  C.,  MONUMENTS,  .  161 

CHICAGO, 2*7 

NEW- YORK  CITY, 605 

NIAGARA  FALLS, .  627 

GETTYSBURG  MONUMENTS,     .     .     .  715 

YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK,      .  893 

THE  NATURAL  PRODUCTS,     .     .     .  939 

NATURE  IN  THE  EAST,      ....  940 

NATURE  IN  THE  WEST,     ....  941 


THE  MAPS  OF  THE  STATES  FORM  AN  ATLAS  ARRANGED  IN  THEIR  ALPHABETICAL 
ORDER  AND  COVER  THE  48  PAGES  FROM  461  TO  508. 

DESCRIPTION  AND  MAPS. 


TEXT. 

PAGE. 

5 
27 

43 
53 


UNITED  STATES,  .     .     . 

ALABAMA, 

ALASKA, 

ARIZONA,     .     .     .     .     . 

ARKANSAS, 59 

ATLAS  OF  THE  STATES, 

CALIFORNIA, 69 

COLORADO, 101 

CONNECTICUT,      .     .     .     .117 

DELAWARE, 143 

DISTRICT  OF  COLUMBIA,    .   149 

FLORIDA, 165 

GEORGIA, 177 

IDAHO, 193 

ILLINOIS, 201 

INDIANA, 233 

INDIAN  TERRITORY,       .     .  247 

IOWA, 253 

KANSAS, 263 

KENTUCKY, 273 

LOUISIANA, 293 

MAINE, 311 

MARYLAND, 321 

MASSACHUSETTS,  ....  339 

MICHIGAN, 401 

MINNESOTA, 419 

MISSISSIPPI, 437 


MAP. 

PAGE. 

9 

461 
465 
462 

463 

461-508 
465 
466 
467 
468 
468 
469 
470 

47 i 
472 

473 
502 

474 
475 
476 

478 

479 
468 
480 

483 
481 


TEXT.  MAP. 

PAGE.  PAGR. 

MISSOURI,    ...          .     .  443  485 

MONTANA, 509  486 

NEBRASKA, 521  487 

NEVADA, 531  464 

NEW  HAMPSHIRE,     .     .     .537  506 

NEW  JERSEY, 549  488 

NEW  MEXICO,      ....  567  489 

NEW  YORK, 575  491 

NORTH  CAROLINA,    .     .     .  645  492 

NORTH  DAKOTA,  .     .     .     .655  493 

OHIO, 661  494 

OKLAHOMA, 693  502 

OREGON,      .     .     .    .,     .     .  697  495 

PENNSYLVANIA,     ....  709  497 

RHODE  ISLAND,    ....  763  498 

SOUTH  CAROLINA,     .     .     .  781  499 

SOUTH  DAKOTA,  ....  789  500 

TENNESSEE, 795  477 

TEXAS, 811  503 

UTAH, 831  501 

VERMONT, 839  506 

VIRGINIA, 849  505 

WASHINGTON, 865  507 

WEST  VIRGINIA,  ....  879  504 

WISCONSIN, 885  482 

WYOMING, 903  508 

IND,EX, 913 


484 

THE  ILLUSTRATED  HEADING  OF  EACH  STATE  CHAPTER  CONTAINS  THE  STATE 
ARMS  AND  MOTTO,  THE  STATE  CAPITOL,  THE  PET  NAME,  AND  A  PORTRAIT  OF 
SOME  PERSON  PROMINENTLY  CONNECTED  WITH  ITS  HISTORY. 


KING'S  HANDBOOK 

°rTHE 


UNITED 


PLANNED  AND   EDITED 

M°SESYKING 


OVER    TWENTY-SIX    HUNDRED    ILLUSTRATIONS 


BUFFALO,    N.Y. 

M9SES  KING  CORPORATION, 

PUBLISHERS. 


PRINTED  BY  THE  MATTHEWS-NORTHRUP  CO.,  ART-PRINTING  WORKS,  BUFFALO  AND  NEW  YORK. 
i\      ^»       .  t  Copyright   1891-92,  by  Moses  King  Corporation. 


ISfc 

1 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


FLAGS  OF  THE  COLONIES  AND  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES. 


Bancroft  Library 


2,07 
64,96 
202,786 


Newspapers  and  Periodicals,  19,37 
Mean    Annual    Tempera- 
ture (excluding  Alaska), 


The  secret  of   America  was 

guarded  well   from  the  men  of 

the  Old  World.     Phoenician  gal- 
leys are  reported  to  have  reached 

its  shores  before  Christ  was  born 

in  Galilee  ;  and  in  later  centuries 

the  troubadours  sang  of  Prince 

Madoc's  westward  voyages,  and 

the  pilgrimage  of   St.  Brandan, 

and  the  mighty  deeds  of  the  Norsemen  on  the  Vinland 
coast.  Even  these  vague  stories  had  been  forgotten,  and 
the  Europeans  looked  with  awe  westward  over  the  unknown 
Sea  of  Darkness,  stretching  away  to  the  nether  side  of  the 
globe.  Then  Columbus  came  forth,  from  his  hut  on  the 
Genoese  coast,  and  led  a  little  'fleet  of  Spanish  vessels  to 
the  outpost  islands  of  America,  in  1492.  He  was  followed, 
five  years  later,  by  John  Cabot,  a  Venetian  mariner,  who, 
with  his  little  English  ship  and  English  crew,  first  reached 
the  continent  of  North  America.  Americus  Vespucius  dis- 
covered South  America  ;  Balboa  crossed  the  Isthmus  of 
Panama  ;  and  Sir  Humphrey  Gilbert  and  other  English 
sailors  visited  the  northern  coast.  For  a  century  America 
was  believed  to  be  a  part  of  Asia,  the  land  of  gold  and 
spices,  and  men  voyaged  hither  hoping  to  find  the  riches 
of  the  Orient.  When  the  truth  became  known,  the  Eu- 
ropeans set  about  colonizing  the  new-found  continent, 
some  moved  by  ambition,  some  by  avarice,  and  some  by  a 
desire  for  freedom  in  religious  and  secular  life.  The 
Spaniards  and  Portuguese  laid  hold  on  South  and  Central 
America  and  the  West  Indies,  and  Spain  founded  the 
earliest  permanent  settlements  within  the  limits  of  the  pres- 
ent United  States,  at  St.  Augustine,  in  1565,  and  at  Santa 
Fe,  in  1598.  France  occupied  the  Canadian  wilderness 
and  the  Mississippi  Valley ;  and  Holland  and  Sweden 
planted  colonies  in  the  Hudson  and  Delaware  regions,  and  elsewhere.  England's  men,  sent 
by  Sir  Walter  Ralegh,  attempted  to  settle  in  Carolina,  in  1585  ;  Gosnold  established  a  transi- 
tory colony  in  Massachusetts,  in  1602;  and  the  Virginia  Company  founded  Jamestown,  in 


Population  in  1790,     .     . 

In  1800, 

In  1810, 

In  1820, 

In  1830,       ..'... 

In  1840, 

In  1850, 

In  1860, 

In  1870, 

In  1880,       .     .     . 

In  1890 

Indians  (Census  of  1890), 
Total  vote  cast  at  last 

Presidential  election, 
Area  (square  miles), 
Army  (in  1890),       .     .     . 

Disciplined  Militia,    . 
Navy  (in  1890)  Sailors,  . 

Ships  in  commission, 

U.  S.  Marine  Corps,  . 

Post-offices 

Railroads  (miles),       .     . 
Net  National  Debt  (April 

30,  '9'), 


3,920,21 

5,30$,  48 
7,239,88 
9,633,82 
12,866,02 
17,069,45 
23,191,87 
31,443-32 
38,558,37 
50,155.78 
62,622,25 
249,27 

11.386,63 
3,527,00 
27,39< 
io§,53 


CITIES  OF  OVER   IOO.OOO  INHABI- 
TANTS (CENSUS  OF  1890). 
New  York,  N.  Y., 

Chicago,  111..      .    .  . 
Philadelphia,  Pa.. . 
Brooklyn,  N.  Y., 

St.  Louis,  Mo.,  .     .  . 

Boston,  Mass.,  .     .  . 

Baltimore,  Md.,      .  . 

San  Francisco,  Cal.,  . 

Cincinnati,  Ohio,    .  . 

Cleveland,  Ohio,    .  . 

-Buffalo,  N.  Y  ,   .     .  . 

New  Orleans,  La.,  '  . 
Pittsburgh,  Pa  ,      . 

Washington,  D.  C.,  . 

Detroit,  Mich.,  .     .  . 

Milwaukee,  Wis  .  .  . 

Newark,  N.  J  ,  .     .  . 
Minneapolis,  M 


Jersey  City,  N.  J., 
Louisville,  Ky., 
Omaha,  Neb.,  .  . 
Rochester,  N.  Y.,  . 
St.  Paul,  Minn.,  . 
Kansas  City,  Mo., 
Providence,  R.  I.,  . 
Denver,  Colo.,  .  . 
Indianapolis,  Ind., 
Allegheny,  Pa., 


1,515,30 
1,099,85 
1,046,96 
806,34 
451,77 
448,47 
434,43 
298,99 
296,90. 
261,31; 
255,66 
242,03 
238,61 
230,39 
205,87 
204.468 
181,83 
164,73 
163,00 
161, 
140,45 
133," 
133,15 
132,71 
132,14 
106,7 
105.436 
105,28 


6  A'lXG'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

1606.  In  1620  the  exiled  English  Pilgrims  founded  Plymouth,  in  Massachusetts;  and  ten 
years  later  the  Puritans  settled  Boston.  For  a  century  and  a  half,  the  British  colonists 
advanced  slowly  inland,  pressing  back  the  Indians,  Frenchmen,  Spaniards  and  all  others  by 
force  of  arms.  When  Great  Britain  imposed  heavy  taxes  on  her  American  subjects,  in 
1765,  to  help  pay  the  costs  of  the  French  war,  they  rose  in  arms  against  the  principle  of 
taxation  without  representation.  Then  followed  the  Revolutionary  War,  from  1775  to 
1783,  when  the  United  Colonies,  aided  by  French  fleets  and  armies,  won  their  indepen- 
dence. The  troops  in  the  field  numbered  131,000  Continental  regulars  and  164,000  volun- 
teers. The  States  formed  a  loose  confederation  of  republics  from  1781  until  1787,  when 
that  wonderful  document,  the  Constitution  of  the  United  States,  was  framed  by  Washing- 
ton, Franklin,  Hamilton,  Madison,  Livingston,  Jay,  Sherman  and  other  fathers  of  the  Re- 
public. This  system  of  government  was  accepted  by  each  of  the  States  ;  and  in  1 789, 
Washington  became  the  first  President. 

The  original  Republic,  lying  between  the  seaboard  and  the  Alleghany  Mountains,  was 
greatly  enlarged  by  the  conquests  of  George  Rogers  Clark's  Virginians,  in  1778,  covering 


the  country  between  the  Ohio, 
sissippi  River.  In  1803  Presi- 
Bonaparte  $15,000,000  for  the 
as  far  as  Texas  and  the  Rocky 
and  Clarke  to  explore  and  pre- 
Barbary  corsairs  had  for  many 
sels  and  held  their  crews  as 
conquered  Tripoli,  and  in  1815 
the  Algerian  fleet,  and  both 
forced  to  yield  their  claims  of 
During  the  long  Napoleonic 
check  American  commerce  with 
like  manner  impeded  our  trade 
dent  Jefferson  retaliated  by  the 
to  leave  our  ports.  For  14 
mained  sealed  up  in  its  harbors, 
England  and  New  York.  Great 


DUXBURY,   MASSACHUSETTS  : 

MILES-STANDISH    MONUMENT. 


the  Great  Lakes,  and  the  Mis- 
dent  Jefferson  paid  Napoleon 
region  west  of  the  Mississippi, 
Mountains;  and  sent  Lewis 
empt  the  Oregon  Country.  The 
years  captured  American  ves- 
slaves.  In  1801-5  the  navy 
Commodore  Decatur  defeated 
these  piratical  powers  were 
tribute  from  the  United  States. 
wars  France  endeavored  to 
British  ports,  and  England  in 
with  French  countries.  Presi- 
Embargo,  forbidding  vessels 
months  American  shipping  re- 
to  the  immense  loss  of  New 
Britain  also  claimed  the  right 


to  stop  and  search  our  vessels  on  the  high  seas,  and  impress  Irom  them  seamen  for  the 
crews  of  the  Royal  Navy.  After  900  ships  had  been  thus  searched,  and  5,000  mariners 
taken  out,  the  United  States  declared  war  on  Great  Britain.  During  the  three  years' 
struggle  that  ensued,  our  navy  covered  itself  with  glory,  and  the  British  Government  finally 
made  peace,  abandoning  its  claim  of  impressing  sailors.  In  1819,  Spain  ceded  Florida  to  the 
Republic,  and  with  it  her  claims  on  the  Pacific  Coast.  Wave  after  wave  of  migration  passed 
westward,  down  the  Ohio  and  along  the  Great  Lakes,  building  up  vigorous  commonwealths 
in  the  interior  of  the  continent.  The  war  with  Mexico  resulted  in  the  acquisition  of  Texas, 
New  Mexico,  Nevada,  Utah,  Arizona  and  California;  and  at  about  the  same  time  the 
United  States  extended  her  sway  over  the  Oregon  Country. 

In  1860-1  eleven  of  the  15  Southern  States,  believing  in  the  sovereignty  of  each  State, 
aiid  believing,  also,  that  certain  of  their  peculiar  institutions  were  endangered  by  Northern 
aggression,  endeavored  to  secede  from  the  Union,  and  formed  the  new  government  of  the 
Confederate  States  of  America.  The  National  Government  put  2, 780,000  soldiers  under  arms. 
Of  this  vast  armament,  New  England  furnished  363,000  men  ;  the  Middle  States,  864,000  ; 
the  border  Southern  States,  323,000 ;  and  the  six  older  Western  States,  1,022,000.  After 
four  years  of  desperate  fighting,  from  Arizona  to  the  Atlantic,  the  authority  of  the  United 
States  was  fully  restored  throughout  all  the  Southern  country.  But  this  supreme  effort 
cost  the  lives  of  500,000  men  (350,000  Federal;  150,000  Confederate),  and  increased 
the  National  debt  to  $2,800,000,000,  besides  nearly  ruining  the  South,  whose  cities  and 


THE   UNITED   STATES   OF  AMERICA. 


1 


rural  regions  had  been  laid  desolate.  In  due  time,  the  governments  of  the  Southern  States 
were  restored  to  their  people,  and  the  Stars  and  Stripes  once  more  floated,  an  honored 
emblem,  over  a  great,  prosperous  and  united  Republic.  Sit  Perpetua. 

The  Name  of  the  Great  Republic  is  stated  by  the  Constitution  as  THE  UNITED  STATES 
OF  AMERICA.  The  league  against  British  oppression  was  naturally  called  the  United 
Colonies,  until  Congress  resolved  (Journal  II.,  328)  "that  in  all  Continental  commissions 
and  other  instruments,  where  heretofore  the  words  'United  Colonies'  have  been  used,  the 
style  be  altered  for  the  future  to  be  the  '  United  States.'"  The  name  America  comes  from 
amalric,  or  emmerick,  an  Old-German  word  spread  through  Europe  by  the  Goths,  and 


softened   in    Latin 
ian    to    Amerigo. 


to 

It 

Brazil.  Americus 
a  wealthy  Florentine 
voyages  to  the  New 
than  Columbus,  and 
of  his  discoveries. 
Hylacomylus,  of  the 
the  Vosges  Mountains, 
Cosmographuf  Intro- 
said  :  "Now,  truly,  as 
widely  explored,  and 
discovered,  by  Amer- 
no  reason  why  it 
called  Amerigen,  — 
ericus,  or  America, 
discoverer,  a  man  of 
Hylacomylus  invented 
and  as  there  was  no 
World,  this  came 
use.  It  does  not  ap- 
was  a  party  to  this 
transaction,  which  has 
ment  of  a  hemisphere. 
The  pet  name  for 
ment  is  UNCLE  SAM. 
War  of  1812,  when 
inspector  of  provisions 
erican  army,  at  Troy. 
"U.  S.,"  marked  on 
familiar  to  the  people, 
men  spread  the  face- 
meant  "Uncle  Sam"  Wilson. 


NEW-YORK  HARBOR 


Americus,  and  in  Ital- 
was  first  applied  to 
Vespucius,  the  son  of 
notary,  made  several 
World,  a  few  years  later 
gave  spirited  accounts 
About  the  year  1507, 
college  at  St.  Die,  in 
brought  out  a  book, 
ductio,  in  which  he 
these  regions  are  more 
another  fourth  part  is 
icus  Vespucius,  I  see 
should  not  be  justly 
that  is  the  land  of  Am- 
from  Americus,  its 
a  subtle  intellect." 
the  name  America, 
other  title  for  the  New 
gradually  into  general 
pear  that  Vespucius 
almost  accidental 
made  him  a  monu- 

the  American  Govern- 
It  arose  during  the 
Samuel  Wilson  was  an 
destined  for  the  Am- 
The  abbreviation  of 
the  casks,  was  then  un- 
and  one  of  the  work- 
tious  saying  that  it 
The  good  inspector  was  often  rallied  on  the  rapid  increase 


TATUE  OF   LIBERTY    ENLIGHTENING 
THE  WORLD  C.BY    BARTHOLDl). 


of  his  possessions;  and  when  many  of  his  men  entered  the  army  the  old  joke  about  Uncle 
Sam  was  carried  from  camp-fire  to  camp-fire,  and  permeated  all  the  armies  in  the  field. 
Wilson  died  at  Troy,  in  1854.  Uncle  Sam  is  usually  portrayed  as  a  tall,  thin  man,  of  a 
Yankee  type,  with  a  long  chin  beard.  He  is  clad  in  a  blue  swallow-tail  coat,  bearing  white 
stars  ;  his  outgrown  trowsers  are  of  red  and  white  stripes ;  and  his  head  is  covered  with  a 
white  bell-crowned  tall  hat.  Another  pet  name  is  BROTHER  JONATHAN,  from  Governor 
Jonathan  Trumbull,  of  Connecticut.  Gen.  Washington,  when  in  doubt  or  perplexity  used 
to  say  :  "Let  us  consult  Brother  Jonathan,"  and  the  name  got  to  be  synonymous  with  sen- 
sible and  .patriotic  American  manhood.  New-Englanders  (and  often  all  Americans)  are 
called  YANKEES,  perhaps  because  the  Indians  used  to  say  Yengees  for  "English." 


8       PACIFIC 


(I2oth  Meridian^   TIME     +          MOUNTAIN    (iQ5th  Meridian     TIME         j    CENTRAL 


Longitut 


'eridian')    TIME 


EASTERN    (75th  Meridian}   TIME 


K 

-£WMtoJ^]**f%*°»$          HauliHou^C          $?  * 

*>  '        • 


*?««—"   J-        |#  Agolumbus ViRMiNW^  /      "-V       B^uV.^r*  MAP      OF      THE 

^^E^^Sfe^N11^  STATES 


^Sfcfes;«r 


ENGRAVED  FOR 

United    States 

Y  MATTHEWS,  NORTHROP  A  CO.,  BUFFALO,  N.  V. 
(Copyright,  1S9S  by  MOM»  King  Corporation.) 
1  SCALE  OP  STATUTE  MILES. 


U    L     F         0     f 

,  

m.*  *  *   \ 

hH 

KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED  STATES. 


r\l 


THE   UNITED   STATES    OF  AMERICA. 


i  i 


The  Great  Seal  of  the  United  States,  adopted  in  1782,  shows  a  shield  of  13  perpen- 
dicular red  and  white  stripes  (the  States),  upholding  a  blue  field  (Congress).  The  shield 
is  borne  on  the  breast  of  a  displayed  eagle,  whose  right  talon  holds  an  olive  branch,  and 
his  left  talon  holds  a  bundle  of  13  arrows.  In  his  beak  he  carries  a  scroll,  inscribed  with 
the  motto  :  E  PLURIBUS  UNUM  (  "One  out  of  many,"  one  government  formed  from  num- 
erous States).  A  similar  phrase  occurs  in  the  Latin  poets,  Horace  and  Virgil,  and  had 
been  printed  for  many  years  prior  to  the  Revolution  on  the  title-page  of  The  Gentleman's 
Magazine,  of  London,  then  largely  circulated  in  the  American  colonies.  The  Great  Seal 
has  as  a  crest  a  golden  glory,  breaking  through  a  cloud,  and  enclosing  a  blue  field,  with  a 
constellation  of  13  white  stars.  The  American  Eagle,  or  Bald  Eagle  (Haliaetus  leucocephalus}, 
is  a  dark  brown  or  blackish  bird,  three  feet  long,  with  pure  white  head  and  tail.  This  noble 
"Bird  of  Freedom"  for  over  a  century  has  been  the  National  emblem. 

The  American  Ensign,  as  arranged  by  the  Navy  Department,  contains  an  upper 
row  of  eight  stars  and  a  lower  row  of  'ght,  with  four  rows,  each  of  seven  stars,  between 
them.  The  colors  are  red,  signifying  Divine  love,  valor  and  war ;  white,  whose  language 
is  hope  and  truth,  purity  and  peace ;  and  blue,  the  color  of  loyalty,  sincerity  and  justice. 
The  13  stripes  (six  the  full  length  of  the  flag,  and  seven  from 
the  blue  union)  typify  the  original  13  States;  the  44  stars 
represent  the  44  States  in  1891,  grouped  in  the  constellation 
of  the  Union,  "The  radiant  heraldry  of  Heaven." 

The  flag  raised  over  the  American  camps  at  Cambridge 
in  1776  was  composed  of  the  13  stripes,  with  the  British 
union.  In  1777  the  stars  and  stripes  came  into  being. 

The  American  Jack  is  the  union  of  the  flag.  The  Revenue 
Flag  shows  1 6  perpendicular  red  and  white  stripes,  and  a 
white  union  bearing  13  blue  stars.  Many  of  the  States  have 
flags  of  their  own,  which  are  carried  alongside  the  National 
standard,  by  their  militia  or  volunteer  troops. 

"  As  at  the  early  dawn  the  stars  shine  forth  even  while  it 
grows  light,  and  then,  as  the  sun  advances,  that  light  breaks 
into  banks  and  streaming  lines  of  color,  the  glowing  red  and 
intense  white  striving  together  and  ribbing  the  horizon  with 
bars  effulgent.  So  on  the  American  flag,  stars  and  beams  of 
many-colored  light  shine  out  together.  And  where  this  flag 
comes,  and  men  behold  it,  they  see  in  its  sacred  emblazonry 
no  ramping  lions  and  no  fierce  eagle,  no  embattled  castles  or 
insignia  of  imperial  authority ;  they  see  the  symbols  of  light.  It  is  the  banner  of  dawn.  It 
means  LIBERTY  ;  and  the  down-trodden  creature  of  foreign  despotism  sees  in  the  Ameri- 
can flag  that  very  promise  and  prediction  of  God  :  '  The  people  which  sat  in  darkness  saw 
a  great  light. '  *  *  *  Our  flag  carries  American  ideas,  American  history,  and  Ameri- 
can feelings.  Beginning  with  the  Colonies,  in  its  sacred  heraldry,  in  its  glorious  insignia, 
it  has  gathered  and  stored  chiefly  this  supreme  idea  :  Divine  right  of  liberty  in  man.  Every 
color  means  liberty;  not  lawlessness,  not  license;  but  organized  institutional  liberty,— 
liberty  through  law,  and  laws  for  liberty  ! " — HENRY  WARD  BEECHER. 

The  Presidents  of  the  United  States  have  been  :  George  Washington,  1789-97  ;  John 
Adams,  1797-1801;  Thomas  Jefferson,  1801-9;  James  Madison,  1809-17;  James  Monroe, 
1817-25;  John  Quincy  Adams,  1825-9;  Andrew  Jackson,  1829-37;  Martin  Van  Buren, 
1837-41  ;  William  Henry  Harrison,  1841;  John  Tyler,  1841-5  ;  James  Knox  Polk,  1845-9; 
Zachary  Taylor,  1849-50;  Millard  Fillmore,  1850-3;  Franklin  Pierce,  1853-7;  James 
Buchanan,  1857-61;  Abraham  Lincoln,  1861-5;  Andrew  Johnson,  1865-9 ;  Ulysses  Simp- 
son Grant,  1869-77;  Rutherford  Birchard  Hayes,  1877-81  ;  James  Abram  Garfield,  1881 ; 
Chester  Alan  Arthur,  1881-5  ;  Grover  Cleveland,  1885-9;  an^  Benjamin  Harrison,  1889-93. 


PLYMOUTH,    MASSACHUSETTS  : 
NATIONAL    FOREFATHERS'  MONUMENT. 


I  2 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 


WASHINGTON  : 
OLYMPIC    MOUNTAINS  AND  STRAIT   OF   JUAN    DE    FUCA. 


Descriptive. —  The  United  States  (excluding 
Alaska)  occupies  a  position  as  to  latitude,  longitudi 
and  area  which  would  correspond  to  that  part  o 
the  Old  World  lying  between  Cairo  and  Prague 
and  between  the  west  of  Ireland  and  the  easten 
coast  of  the  Black  Sea.  It  faces  the  Atlantic  Oceai 
with  the  deep  fiords  and  rocky  promontories  of  Nev 
England ;  the  low  sandy  strands  of  New  Terse; 
and  Virginia,  cut  deep  into  by  Delaware  am 
Chesapeake  Bays  ;  and  the  long  southern  beaches 

__:Mhi  behind   which    open    still   and    shallow   lagoons 

Nearly  parallel  with  the  coast,  and  from  20  to  100  miles  inland,  the  Appalachian  Mountain 
run  from  Alabama  northeastward  for  1,300  miles,  to  Gaspe,  on  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence 
including  the  Blue  Ridge  and  Alleghany  Mountains  of  Pennsylvania  and  the  South,  thi 
Adirondacks  and  Catskills  and  Highlands  of  New  York,  and  the  Taconic,  White  am 
Green  Mountains  of  New  England.  This  highland  country  has  a  breadth  of  about  io< 
miles,  and  a  height  of  from  2,000  to  3,000  feet,  culminating  in  North  Carolina  and  Nev 
Hampshire  in  peaks  above  6,000  feet  high.  The  only  practicable  break  in  the  range  i 
where  the  Hudson  and  Mohawk  Rivers  have  cut  their  way  through,  and  afford  an  avenui 
for  a  vast  movement  of  freight  by  water.  Beyond  the  Appalachian  Range  opens  the  Cen 
tral  Valley,  1,250  miles  square,  and  covering  1,500,000  square  miles,  drained  by  the  Miss 
issippi  River  and  the  Great  Lakes.  So  slight  an  elevation  intervenes  between  the  Mississipp 
and  the  lakes,  that  a  cutting  of  100  feet  deep  would  open  a  practical  ship-canal  betweei 
the  two  systems  of  waters,  whose  outlets  are  so  widely  separated.  The  Great  Plain 
sweep  up  to  the  Rocky  Mountains,  which  are  300  miles  wide,  and  extend  from  Mexico  t( 
Canada,  with  many  majestic  ranges  and  peaks,  and  beautiful  park-like  valleys.  Next  west 
ward  comes  the  Great  Basin  of  Utah  and  Nevada,  an  elevated  plateau  covering  250,  oo< 
square  miles,  with  vast  treeless  mountains,  tracts  of  desert,  and  rivers  evaporating  on  thei 
arid  plains.  To  the  north  lies  the  Columbian  Plateau,  largely  of  barren  volcanic  soil ;  am 
to  the  south  stretches  the  Colorado  Plateau,  with  its  stupendous  canons.  Westward  ris< 
the  majestic  Sierra  Nevada  and  the  Cascade  Range,  running  from  Mexico  into  British  Col 
umbia.  Beyond  the  broad  valleys  of  California  and  Oregon  the  Coast  Range  fronts  th< 
Pacific  Ocean,  broken  at  wide  intervals  by  harbors.  The  Geographer  of  the  United  State: 
divides  the  Republic  into  the  Atlantic  States,  including  the  North  Atlantic  and  Soutl 
Atlantic  groups  ;  the  Central  States,  including  the  North  Central  and  South  Central  Groups 
and  the  Western,  or  Cordilleran  States,  including  Montana,  Wyoming,  Colorado  and  Nev 
Mexico,  and  all  lying  to  the  westward  of  these. 

Gannett's  Bulletin  on  the  Distribution  of  Population  in  Accordance  with  TopographL 
Features  (May,  1891),  sub-divides  the  Republic  into  21  differing  areas,  as  follows  :  T/t, 
Wooded  Coast  Swamps  and  rice-lands  along  the  South  Atlantic  and  the  Gulf  have  1 , 809,  ooo  in 

habitants  (mainly  negroes).  The  Atlantic  Plain. 
between  the  swamps  and  the  fall  line,  from  Nev 
York  to  the  Mississippi,  low  and  level,  and  witt 
much  forest-growth,  has  8,784,000  people.  Thi 
Piedmont  Region,  between  the  fall  line  and  th( 
mountains,  extends  from  Maine  to  Alabama,  hillj 
in  New  England,  level  in  the  South,  and  abound 
ing  in  woodlands,  with  7,858,000  people.  Thu 
broken  and  forest-clad  New-England  Hills  (in 
eluding  also  the  Adirondacks)  have  2,290,000. 
The  Appalachian-Mountain  System,  from  Ne\* 
UTAH  :  GREAT  SALT  LAKE.  Jersey  to  Alabama,  includes  the  Blue  Ridge  and 


THE   UNITED   STATES   OF  AMERICA.  13 

its  western  valley,  with  2,849,000  people.  The  Cumberland- Alleghany  Plateaii,  an  intri- 
cate and  deep-forested  mountain-land,  extending  from  New  York  to  Alabama,  has  5,749,- 
ooo  inhabitants.  The  Interior  Timbered  Region  covers  southern  Ohio  and  Indiana,  western 
Kentucky  and  Tennessee,  and  northern  Mississippi,  with  11,292,000  inhabitants.  The 
Lake  Region,  including  parts  of  New  York,  Pennsylvania  and  Ohio,  and  most  of  Michigan, 
Wisconsin  and  Illinois,  has  3, 578,000  people.  The  Ozark- Mountain  Region,  in  Arkansas  and 
Missouri,  has  1,041,000  inhabitants.  The  Alluvial  Region  of  the  Mississippi,  from  Cairo  to 
Louisiana,  is  marshy  and  forested,  with  a  richly  fertile  soil,  and  a  perilous  climate.  Most  of  its 


GIANTS    OF    THE    PACIFIC    NORTHWEST. 


885,  ooo  inhabitants  are  negroes.  The  Prairie  Region,  the  granary  of  America,  covers  western 
Indiana,  most  of  Illinois  and  Iowa,  southern  Wisconsin 'and  Minnesota,  northern  Missouri, 
eastern  Dakota,  and  Kansas  and  Nebraska,  and  pushes  down  into  Texas.  It  is  a  level 
country,  originally  rich  in  grasses,  but  devoid  of  timber.  Here  dwell  13,048,000  people. 
The  Great  Plains,  treeless,  billowy,  too  scant  in  rain  for  farming  without  irrigation,  extend 
from  the  prairies  (the  99th  meridian)  to  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  have  737,000  inhabitants. 
The  North  Rocky  Mountains,  from  Canada  southeast  to  central  Wyoming,  have  153,000. 
The  South  Rocky  Mountains,  from  central  Wyoming  to  Texas,  have  247,000.  These  two 
sections  of  the  continental  range  are  separated  by  a  broad  plateau  of  100  miles  in  Wyoming. 
The  Plateau  Region  of  the  Colorado  Valley,  above  the  Rio  Virgen,  is  a  series  of  gigantic 
level  steps,  descending  from  12,000  feet  high  to  2,000  feet,  fronted  by  cliffs,  and  often  cut 
into  skeletons  by  profound  canons.  This  sterile  land,  with  its  light  and  spasmodic  rains,  and 
its  appalling  phenomena  of  scenery,  is  the  most  thinly  settled  part  of  the  Republic,  having 
less  than  one  inhabitant  to  the  square  mile  (110,000).  The  Basin  Region  of  Nevada  and 
parts  of  Utah,  California  and  Oregon,  without  outlet  to  the  sea,  and  poor  in  rain,  has 
403,000.  The  Columbian  Mesas  cover  the  basaltic  plains  of  the  Snake  and  Upper  Columbia, 
in  Idaho,  Oregon  and  Washington,  and  have  219,000  people.  The  Sierra  Nevada  has 
146,000;  The  Pacific  Valley,  from  Puget  Sound  to  Tulare  Lake,  435,000;  The  Cascade 
Range,  deep  forested  around  its  extinct  volcanoes,  179,000;  and  The  Coast  Ranges,  810,000. 
The  country  between  the  Prairie  Region  and  the  Pacific  Valley  will  never  be  thickly  settled, 
on  account  of  its  lack  of  water,  which  seriously  impedes  farming  pursuits.  The  Pacific 
States  can  happily  accommodate  and  sustain  many  times  their  present  population ;  and  a 
large  immigration  has  lately  poured  into  Southern  California  and  the  Puget-Sound  country. 


I4  KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 

The  Climate  is  colder  than  that  of  similar  European  latitudes,  New  York  being  n0;' 
colder  than  Naples,  and  Norfolk  4°3'  colder  than  San  Fernando,  Spain.  The  North- Atlantic 
and  North-Pacific  States  have  nearly  the  same  temperatures,  but  the  Southern  States  are 
warmer  than  the  same  latitudes  along  the  Pacific,  owing  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  The  pre- 
vailing winds  are  westerly.  The  largest  rainfall  is  along  the  Atlantic  and  the  Gulf.  California 
is  nearly  rainless  throughout  the  summer.  The  coldest  locality  (outside  of  Alaska)  is  along 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  in  Montana ;  the  hottest  region  is  in  the  Colorado  and  Gila  Valleys. 
The  mean  temperature  of  New  York  corresponds  with  that  of  Paris,  but  its  winters  are  Ice- 
landic, and  its  summers  Italian.  Rains  are  equally  distributed  east  of  the  hundredth  meridian, 
coming  largely  from  evaporation  in  the  tropics,  blown  northward  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico, 
following  the  Appalachian  Mountains,  or  spreading  fan-like  up  the  Mississippi  Valley.  The 
Eastern  Gulf  coast  gets  the  heaviest  rains,  averaging  above  60  inches  of  moisture  a  year, 
while  Savannah,  Charleston  and  Norfolk  have  less  than  50  inches,  and  Philadelphia,  New 
York  and  Boston  have  43  inches  each.  Vast  areas  of  New  Mexico  and  Arizona,  Utah  and 
Wyoming,  Montana  and  Oregon  receive  less  than  ten  inches  of  moisture  yearly. 

Agriculture  is  favored  by  the  great  diversity  of  soils  and  climates.  The  Federal  statis- 
tics (see  page  939)  show  that  the  farm-products  exceed  $3,800,000,000  a  year.  There 

are  4,000,000  farms,  cover- 
ing 536,000,000  acres,  and 
valued,  with  their  live-stock 
and  implements,  at  $12,- 
000,000,000.  Three  fourths 
are  cultivated  by  their 
owners.  Not  quite  half  of 
the  wage-earners  are  en- 
gaged in  farming.  The 
yearly  cost  of  fence-build- 
ing is  $80,000.000:  and  of 

THRESHING    BY    STEAM    IN    A    PRAIRIE   WHEAT-FIELD.  c  .  ,  .  ^ 

fertilizers,  $30,000,000. 

The  grass  crop  is  the  greatest  of  American  products,  for  besides  the  vast  amounts  consumed 
in  grazing,  the  hay  cut  on  farms  reaches  a  value  of  $400,000,000  a  year.  The  live-stock 
numbers  1 6 5, 000,000  head,  valued  at  $2,400,000,000.  They  include  nearly  50,000,000  each 
of  sheep  and  hogs,  3 7, 000,000  oxen  and  cattle,  16,000,000  milch  cows,  and  16,000,000  horses 
and  mules.  The  yearly  dairy-products  reach  600,000,000  gallons  of  milk,  800,000,000 
pounds  of  butter,  and  30,000,000  pounds  of  cheese.  The  poultry  product  exceeds  $75,000,- 
ooo  yearly,  with  125,000,000  fowls,  giving  yearly  6,000,000,000  eggs.  The  crops  of  the 
United  States  in  1891  amounted  to  44,444,000  tons  of  hay,  8,700,000  bales  of  cotton,  2,- 
075,000,000  bushels  of  corn,  588,000,000  of  wheat,  758,000,000  of  oats,  34,000,000  of 
rye,  80,000,000  of  barley,  14,500,000  of  buckwheat,  and  225,000,000  of  potatoes;  and 
520,000,000  pounds  of  tobacco. 

Minerals  are  produced  to  the  amount  of  over  $650,000,000  a  year  (see  page  939), 
nearly  one  third  of  which  is  of  coal,  largely  from  Pennsylvania.  The  same  State  also 
produces  21,000,000  barrels  of  the  petroleum  ;  and  Ohio  gives  12,000,000  barrels,  the  whole 
product  being  45,000,000  barrels.  Natural  gas  most  abounds  in  Pennsylvania,  Ohio  and 
Indiana.  The  American  product  of  iron  and  steel  is  now  the  largest  in  the  world,  and 
exceeds  $150,000,000  yearly.  The  Cordilleran  region  gives  yearly  about  55,000,000 
ounces  of  silver,  of  a  coin  value  of  $70,000,000;  and  1,600,000  ounces  of  gold,  worth 
$33,000,000.  Nearly  half  of  the  $34,000,000  worth  of  copper  produced  yearly  comes 
from  Montana,  with  large  quantities  from  Michigan  and  Arizona.  The  marble  of  Vermont, 
Tennessee,  and  Georgia,  the  granite  of  New  England  and  other  sections,  the  sandstone 

Ohio  and  Connecticut,  and  other  stones  show  a  value  of  $54,000,000  a  year  ;  and  the 
lime  is  worth  $28,000,000.  Double  this  amount  is  paid  for  brick  and  tile. 


WASHINGTON  ;      2.   J.  ADAMS  ;      8.  JEFFERSON  ;      4.  MADISON  |       5.  MONROE  |      6.  J.  Q.  ADAMS  ;      7    JACKSON  •      8    VAN  BUREN  • 
9.  W.  H.  HARRISON  ;      10.  TYLER  J      11.  POLK  }      12.  TAYLOR  ;      13.  FILLMORE  J      14.  PIERCE  ;      15.  BUCHANAN  |      le'.  LINCOtN  •     ' 

17.  JOHNSON  ;     18.  GRANT;     19.  HAYES;      20.  GARFIELD  ;     21.  ARTHUR;     22.  CLEVELAND;     23.  B.HARRISON 


l6  KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

The  Government  of  the  United  States  is  in  effect  a  republic  of  republics.  It  is  more 
than  a  league  of  States,  because  it  exercises  direct  authority  over  every  citizen.  Yet  the 
States  existed  before  the  Republic  came  into  being,  and  hold  an  undelegated  authority  over 
their  people.  They  are  subordinate  to  the  Federal  Government,  yet  they  could  survive 
without  it,  as  independent  republics.  Bryce  likens  the  United  States  to  a  group  of  ancient 
chapels,  over  which  the  vast  cathedral  of  the  Union  has  been  built.  Their  identity  remains; 
and  if  the  greater  structure  decayed,  they  might  still  exist,  as  separate  and  independent  edi- 
fices. The  Federal  Government  administrates  upon  war  and  peace  and  foreign  relations,  the 
army  and  navy,  the  postal  service,  foreign  and  domestic  commerce,  Federal  courts  of  justice, 
currency,  copyrights  and  patents,  taxation  for  general  purposes,  and  the  protection  of  citizens 
against  unjust  State  legislation.  All  other  and  local  administrations  inhere  in  the  several 
States,  where  the  local  needs  are  best  known.  The  President  and  Congress  are  subject  to 
the  Constitution,  and  the  only  sovereign  power  is  the  will  of  the  people,  acting  under  the 
Constitution,  and  with  the  capacity  of  amending  that  document.  The  President  and  Vice- 
President  are  chosen  by  electors  (numbering  442  in  1893),  the  people  of  each  State  choosing 
by  vote  as  many  as  the  State  has  members  of  both  houses  of  Congress.  The  electors  meet 
in  their  several  States,  and  vote  for  the  candidate  whom  they  have  been  elected  to  choose. 
So  that  the  electoral  vote  of  each  State  is  solid  for  one  candidate,  and  the  popular  vote  for 
the  minority  candidate  in  that  Commonwealth  is  lost.  Thus  it  may  happen  (and  has  hap- 
pened at  least  twice)  that  the  Presidential  candidate  in  whose  name  the  largest  number  of 
votes  has  been  cast  by  the  people,  is  not  elected.  If  no  one  gets  a  majority  of  the  total 
number  of  electoral  votes,  the  House  of  Representatives  must  choose  the  President,  from 
the  three  candidates  receiving  the  highest  number  of  electoral  votes.  In  this  case  (which 
has  happened  twice)  the  Representatives  vote  by  States,  each  State  delegation  being  a  unit. 
Thus  the  23  smaller  States  could  elect  a  President  against  the  21  larger  States.  There  is  an 
unwritten  law,  that  will  probably  never  be  disregarded,  that  no  chief  magistrate  shall  have 
a  third  term.  The  President  is  commander-in-chief  of  the  army  and  navy,  but  never  offi- 
cially enters  the  field  of  war.  He  appoints  the  chief  executive  officers  of  the  Government. 

The  Cabinet  includes  the  Secretaries  of  State,  the  Treasury,  War,  the  Navy,  the  Interior, 
and  Agriculture,  the  Postmaster-General  and  the  Attorney-General.  The  Secretaries  of 
State,  the  Treasury,  and  War,  and  the  Attorney-General  composed  Washington's  cabinet. 

The  Congress  of  the  United  States  is  composed  of  the  Senate  and  the  House  of  Repre- 
sentatives. The  Senate  includes  88  senators,  two  being  elected  by  the  legislature  of  each 
State,  for  a  term  of  six  years.  It  is  the  connecting  link  between  the  State  and  Federal 
Governments,  being  chosen  by  the  States  (not  by  the  people)  to  form  part  of  the  National 
Government.  The  House  of  Representatives  includes  356  members,  elected  every  two  years 
by  a  vote  of  the  people.  The  relative  importance  of  the  State  governments  has  decreased 
within  a  half-century,  while  the  Nation  has  grown  majestically  superior. 

The  Federal  judicial  tribunals  include  the  Supreme  Court,  of  nine  justices,  sitting  at 
Washington;  the  nine  Circuit  Courts;  the  55  District  Courts;  and  the  Court  of  Claims 
(with  five  justices).  They  deal  with  cases  in  law  and  equity  arising  under  the  Federal 
Constitution,  laws  or  treaties ;  cases  affecting  ambassadors  and  consuls  ;  cases  of  maritime 
jurisdiction  ;  controversies  to  which  the  United  States  is  a  party ;  and  controversies  be- 
tween States,  or  citizens  of  different  States,  or  a  State  and  citizens  of  another  State,  or  be- 
tween States  (or  their  citizens)  and  foreign  states  or  subjects. 

The  domain  of  the  United  States  now  includes  44  States,  four  Territories  (New  Mexico, 
Arizona,  Utah  and  Oklahoma),  the  District  of  Columbia,  Alaska,  and  the  Indian  Territory. 

The  13  original  States  were  NEW  HAMPSHIRE,  MASSACHUSETTS,  RHODE  ISLAND, 
CONNECTICUT,  NEW  YORK,  NEW  JERSEY,  PENNSYLVANIA,  MARYLAND,  DELAWARE, 
VIRGINIA,  NORTH  CAROLINA,  SOUTH  CAROLINA,  and  GEORGIA.  Maine  was  taken  from 
Massachusetts ;  Vermont,  from  New  Hampshire  and  New  York  ;  and  West  Virginia,  from 
Virginia.  The  remaining  28  States  have  risen  from  later- won  domains  of  the  Republic. 


THE   UNITED   STATES   OF  AMERICA.  I7 

The  United-States  Army  consists  of  27,390  men,  in  ten  regiments  of  cavalry,  five  of 
artillery,  and  25  of  infantry.  There  are  2,225  negro  soldiers,  forming  the  Ninth  and  Tenth 
Cavalry  and  the  24th  and  25th  Infantry  regiments  ;  and  1,485  Indian  soldiers,  to  be  enrolled 
into  regiments.  There  are  104  garrisoned  posts  (not  including  arsenals),  and  45  ungarri- 
soned  forts.  The  organized  militia  numbers  112,000  men,  and  the  unorganized  militia  in- 
cludes 8,600,000  men  available  for  military  duty.  The  Soldiers'  Home  is  near  Washington. 

The  United-States  Military  Academy  at  West  Point  (New  York)  has  graduated  3,500 
officers  for  the  army.  Post-graduate  schools  for  officers  are  in  operation  at  Fort  Monroe, 
Virginia  (for  artillery),  and  at  Fort  Leavenworth,  Kansas  (for  cavalry  and  infantry).  Up 
to  the  year  iS6l,  West  Point  had  graduated  1,966  officers,  of  whom  1,249  were  then  living. 
Three  fourths  of  these  fought  in  the  armies  of  the  Union,  including  162  from  the  Southern 
States  (nearly  half  of  the  Southern  graduates).  During  the  war,  one  half  of  the  West- 
Point  graduates  were  wounded,  and  one  fifth  were  killed  in  battle  (see  page  599). 

The  United-States  Navy  includes  8,000  men,  and  72  vessels  of  the  old  fleet  (of 
which  only  30  are  in  commission),  and  44  vessels  of  the  new  navy,  twenty  of  them  still  under 
construction.  These  include  battle-ships,  harbor-defence  rams,  torpedo-boats,  and  armored 
and  unarmored  cruisers,  most  of  them  of  steel,  and  with  heavy  modern  armaments.  The 
Marine  Corps  numbers  2,100  men.  There  are  ten  navy- 
yards,  and  four  naval  stations.  The  United-States  Naval 
Academy,  at  Annapolis  (Maryland),  fits  picked  young  men, 
by  a  six  years'  course  of  study,  to  be  officers  in  the  Line 
and  Engineer  Corps  of  the  Navy,  and  in  the  Marine  Corps 
(see  page  332). 

The  favorite  National  song  with  the  army  is  The  Star- 
Spangled  Banner,  written  in  1814,  by  Francis  Scott  Key,  of 
Georgetown,  D.  C.,  at  that  time  a  prisoner  on  the  British 
fleet  which  was  unsuccessfully  attacking  Fort  McIIenry, 
near  Baltimore.  The  popular  National  song,  America,  was 
written  at  Andover,  Mass.,  in  1832,  by  Samuel  Francis  Smith, 
a  native  of  Boston,  a  classmate  of  Oliver  Wendell  Holmes  at 
Harvard,  and  now  for  many  years  past  a  resident  of  Newton, 
Mass. ,  being  by  profession  a  clergyman.  The  John  Brown 
song,  so  famous  in  the  Union  armies,  originated  at  Fort  War- 
ren, in  Boston  Harbor,  in  1861,  among  the  Massachusetts  NEW-YORK  CITY:  GRANT  MONUMENT, 
volunteers.  The  one  great  poem  of  the  war  period  was  The 

Battle  Hymn  of  the  Republic,  written  to  the  John  Brown  tune,  by  Julia  Ward  Howe,  of 
Massachusetts.  Of  the  older  patriotic  songs,  Columbia,  the  Gem  of  the  Ocean,  and  Hail 
Columbia  both  emanated  from  Philadelphia,  the  one  in  1843,  an(l  t'ie  other  in  1798. 

Pensions  are  paid  to  680,000  persons,  including  71,000  in  New  England,  138,000  in 
the  Middle  States,  87,000  in  the  South,  and  384,000  in  the  West.  The  amount  exceeds 
$120,000,000  a  year.  The  list  contains  a  score  of  widows  of  Revolutionary  soldiers. 

The  United-States  Revenue-Cutter  Service  has  16  armed  cruisers  on  the  Atlantic 
and  the  Gulf,  four  on  the  Pacific,  and  four  on  the  Great  Lakes,  besides  the  harbor-steamers, 
and  the  school-ship  at  New  Bedford.  It  costs  $1,000,000  a  year;  and  enforces  the  cus- 
toms and  neutrality  laws,  assists  vessels  in  distress,  and  discharges  many  other  duties. 

The  Exports  amount  to  $1,050,000,000  a  year,  three  fourths  of  which  is  in  agricultural 
products.  Nearly  two  thirds  goes  to  Great  Britain  and  her  colonies.  The  imports  reach 
$900,000,000  yearly,  one  third  of  which  comes  from  Great  Britain  and  her  colonies.  Before 
the  civil  war,  two  thirds  of  the  imports  and  exports  were  carried  in  American  vessels ;  now, 
less  than  one  eighth  is  thus  carried.  Commerce  employs  4,700,000  tons  of  American  ship- 
ping, valued  at  $180,000,000.  Three  fourths  of  this  is  in  the  coastwise  trade.  The  tonnage 
exceeds  that  of  every  other  nation  except  one. 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

'•*&.'> 

•e* 


UNITED-STATES   MILITARY  ACADEMY,  WEST   POINT,   NEW  YORK. 


THE   UNITED   STATES   OF  AMERICA. 


LUUT.CQi.ONCL. 


MILITARY  SERVICE   OF  THE    UNITED  STATES. 


20 


HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

The  Post-Office  De- 
partment    costs     $72,- 
000,000  a  year,  and  has  a 
revenue  of   $66,000,000. 
Transporting  mails  costs 
$37,000,000,    and    post- 
masters'   salaries,     $15,- 
000,000.       This     depart- 
ment   has    introduced 
many     remarkable     im- 
provements,   including 
the  interesting  system  of 
the  railway  mail  service,  and  sea  post-offices. 
The     United-States     Light-House 
Board    controls    1,167    lignt    houses    and 
ae,^  lighted  beacons,  28  light-ships,  280  fog-sig- 

lNTLRioRorAposTALC/!l  na]S)  I? 368  river-lights,  390  day  beacons,  138 

whistling  or  bell  buoys  and  4,200  buoys.      There  are  34 
small  vessels  and  3,200  men  employed. 

Finances.  — The  Government  has  received  since  its 
foundation  (excluding  loans)  about  $12,000,000,000. 
Of  this  amount,  nearly  $7,000,000,000  were  from  cus- 
toms, and  $4,000,000,000  from  internal  revenue.  The 
expenditures  have  been  $12,500,000,000;  for  war, 
$4,700,000,000;  the  navy,  $1,200,000,000;  pensions, 
RAILWAY  MAIL  SERVICE.  $ i , 400, ooo, ooo ;  interest,  $2,700,000,000 ;  and  for  other 

purposes,  $2,500,000,000.  The  several  States  and  Territories  owe  $223,000,000,  net;  the 
counties,  $142,000,000,  net ;  and  the  779  chief  municipalities,  $470,000,000,  net.  The  debts 
are  less  than  in  1880.  The  money  now  in  circulation  amounts  to  $i,  500,000,000,  one  fourth 
in  gold  coin,  nearly  as  much  in  United-States  notes,  one  eighth  each  in  National-bank  notes 
and  gold  certificates,  and  one  fourth  in  silver  certificates  and  silver.  The  United-States  Mint 
is  at  Philadelphia.  The  amount  of  clearances  in  the  New-York  Clearing-House  reaches 
nearly  $34,000,000,000  a  year,  which  exceeds  the  clearances  of  any  other  city  in  the  world. 
There  are  3,577  National 
banks,  with  a  capital  of 
$660,000,000,  and  a  sur- 
plus of  $223,000,000. 
The  921  savings-banks 
have  $1,525,000,000  in 
deposits,  and  a  surplus  of 
$150,000,000. 

The  Life -Saving 
Service  has  178  stations 
on  the  Atlantic  coast,  48 
on  the  Great  Lakes,  and 
II  on  the  Pacific  coast. 
It  costs  $1,000,000  a 
year,  and  in  1891  saved 
$7,000,000  in  property, 
and  succored  551  ship- 
wrecked persons  (only  42 
having  been  lost).  UNITED-STATES  LIFE-SAVINQ  SERVICE. 


THE   UNITED   STATES  OF  AMERICA. 


21 


I         yr/irf 


Clear' 


gjj 


«ALS 


'"forme 


;;f— f: 

IU 


S£. 


The  Signal  Ser- 
vice of  the  army  was  in 
1870  partly  formed  into 
a  meteorological  bureau, 
to  study  the  scientific  law 
of  storms,  and  predict 
the  advance  of  storm- 
fields.  It  has  300  men 
in  service,  all  over  the 
Union,  with  headquarters 

at  Washington.  The  accuracy  of  weather  predictions 
increases  yearly;  and  the  department  is  of  great 
benefit  to  commerce  and  agriculture  alike. 

Education  in  the  public  schools  costs  $140, ooo, - 
ooo  a  year  (three  fourths  for  salaries),  the  number  of 
enrolled  students  exceeding  12,000,000,  with  an 
average  daily  attendance  of  8,000,000.  There  are 
over  400  accredited  universities  and  colleges,  with 
8,  ooo  instructors  and  46,  ooo  students,  property  valued 
at  $147,000,000,  and  libraries  containing  4,200,000 
volumes.  The  first  American  college  was  Harvard, 
founded  in  1638,  and  still  the  most  famous  in  the 
Republic.  The  College  of  William  and  Mary  arose 
in  Virginia  in  1693  ;  Yale  College,  in  Connecticut, 
in  1 700  ;  and  the  College  of  New  Jersey,  in  1 746. 

Newspapers  number  19,400;  1,300  in  New 
England,  3, 700  in  the  Middle  States,  10,100  in  the 
West,  3,300  in  the  South,  and  1,000  on  the  Pacific 
Coast.  Their  total  yearly  issues  exceed  4,  ooo,  ooo,  ooo. 
More  than  4,000  books  are  published  each  year. 

Religion  numbers  in  the  United  States  150,000 
churches,  100,000  clergymen,  and  22,000,000  com- 
municants.   The  chief  denominations  are  the  Metho- 
dists,   with  5,000,000  communicants;  the   Baptists, 
4,300,000;  the  Presbyterians,  1,200,000;  the  Luthe- 
rans,   1,000,000;    and    the    Congregationalists   and 
Episcopalians,    about  500,000  each.      The   Catholic 
population  exceeds  8,000,000  ;  and  there  are  250,000 
Jews.      The   Sunday  schools  number  120,000,   with 
1,200,000  teachers  and  9,000,000  pupils.     The  1,300 
Young  Men's  Christian  Associations  have    200,000 
members,  1,100  general  secretaries,  $10,000,000  in 
property,     and    yearly   outlays   of  nearly 
$2,000,000.  Thereare  225  Young  Women's 
Christian  Associations,  6,000  societies  of 
the     Epworth     League,     150,000    King's 
Daughters,  and  10,000  Young  People's  So- 
cieties of  Christian  Endeavor,  with  600,- 
ooo    members.       The    Freemasons    have 

650,000    American    members;     the    Odd  WASHINGTON  :  CHIEF  SIGNAL  OFFICE,  AND  FLAGS. 

Fellows,   650,000;  the  Knights  of  Pythias,  264,000;  and  the  Royal  Arcanum,  120,000. 
There  are  400,000  comrades  of  the  Grand  Army  of  the  Republic. 


.5  W 


&  £. 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


UNITED-STATES   NAVAL   ACADEMY,   ANNAPOLIS,    MARYLAND. 


THE   UNITED   STATES   OF  AMERICA. 


^Mfm^as.  ^.v^s 


~Mai.Tjf       fftfrer       "fen  us     dtJtlriinrr     Bi'.ifoii 


NAVAL  SERVICE   OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 


AMERICAN    LIGHT-HOUSE    SERVICE. 

schools,  military  bounties,  swamp-land  and  railroad 
grants,  and  homesteads.  Most  of  the  available  land  has 
passed  into  the  hands  of  individuals  and  corporations. 

The  Centre  of  Population  in  the  United  States 

in    1790  was  23    miles  east  of  Baltimore;  in  1800,  18 

miles  west  of  Baltimore;  in   1810,  40  miles  northwest 

by  west  of  Washington;  in  1820,  16  miles  north  of  Wood- 

*  stock  (Va.);  in  1830,  19  miles  southwest  of  Moorefield 


Immigrants  to  the  num- 
ber of  16,000,000  have  come 
to  the  United  States.  The 
European  immigrants  landing 
at  United-States  ports  during 
the  last  ten  years  numbered 
5,246,613,  besides  probably 
1,500.000  entering  by  way  of 
Canada.  They  have  been 

made  up  of  one  third  Germans,  one  fourth  Britons  and  Irish, 
one  tenth  each  of  Scandinavians  and  Canadians,  and  from 
four  to  six  per  cent,  each  of  Austro-Hungarians,  Russians 
and  Italians.      Minnesota  and  Dakota  have    foreign-born 
populations  equal  to  one  half  the  natives.      Massachusetts, 
Rhode  Island,  Connecticut,  New  York,  Michigan,  Wiscon- 
sin and  Nebraska  have  foreign-born  people  equal  to  more 
than  one  fourth  of  the  natives.     The   South  has  attracted 
but   little   immigration,  Virginia,  the    Carolinas,   Georgia, 
Alabama,  and  Mississippi  having  less  than  one  per  cent,  of 
foreign-born  inhabitants.     Texas  has  eight  per  cent.     The 
immigration  of  Chinamen,  other  than  officials,   students, 
merchants  and  tourists,  is  stringently  forbidden  by  Con- 
gress.    An  act  of  Congress  approved  in  1882  forbids   the 
landing  on  American  shores  of  foreign-born  convicts,  luna- 
tics, idiots,  or  persons  liable  to  become  a  public  charge  ; 
and  thousands  of  immigrants  have  been  sent  back  to 
Europe  under  this  law.     An  act  passed  in  1885  forbids 
the  landing  of  aliens  under  contract  to  labor  here. 

The  Public  Lands  of  the  United  States  in- 
cluded all  the  vast  areas  outside  the  thirteen  original 
States  (except  Kentucky,  Tennessee  and  Texas).  The 
original  area  of  the  Union,  and  the  Northwestern 
Territory,  included  about  850,000  square  miles,  to 
which  1,850,000  were  added  by  the  Louisiana  Pur- 
chase and  the  Mexican  cessions,  60,000  by  the  pur- 
chase of  Florida  from  Spain,  50,000  by  the  Gadsden 
Purchase  from  Mexico,  and  266,000  by  the  annexa- 
tion of  Texas.  Alaska  was  bought  from  Russia  in 
1867,  for  $7,200,000,  but  it  may  not  be  considered  as 
a  field  for  colonization.  Exclusive  of  Alaska,  the  pub- 
lic lands  amounted  to  2,837,000  square  miles.  Over  a 
billion  acres,  including  nearly  all  that  is  of  value,  has 
been  sold  for  cash, 
or  granted  for 


NEW  YORK  :  THE  CUSTOM  HOUSE. 


THE    UNITED   STATES   OF  AMERICA. 


(W.  Va,);  in  1840,  1 6  miles  south  of  Clarksburg  (W.  Va.);  in  1850,  23  miles  southeast 
of  Parkersburg  (W.  Va.);  in  1860,  20  miles  south  of  Chillicothe  (Ohio);  in  1870,  48 
miles  east  by  north  of  Cincinnati ;  in  1880,  eight  miles  west  by  south  of  Cincinnati ;  and  in 
1890,  20  miles  east  of  Colum- 
bus, Indiana, 
near  the  vil- 
lage of  West- 
port.  The  cen- 
tre of  popula- 
tion  of  the 
United  States 
has  thus  trav- 
eled westward 


NEW-YOSK    HARBOS  =     ELLI6    |OLAND    AND    THE    NEW 
IMMIGRATION    BUILDING. 


from  the  Eastern  Shore  of 
Maryland,  where  it  stood  in 
Washington's  administra- 
tion, to  Decatur  County,  in 
southern  Indiana.  During 
all  this  century  of  "West- 
ward the  Star  of  Empire 
.^  II  takes  its  Way,"  the  centres 

^  of    population    have    kept 

Qf 


NEW  YORK  =     THE    UNITED-STATES    BARGE-OFF.CE. 

parallel  of  latitude,  moving  toward  the  Pacific  Coast  505  miles,  almost  on  a  direct  line.  The 
annexation  of  Florida  and  the  migration  into  the  Southwest  pulled  the  centre  below  39°  in 
1830;  and  in  1890  it  moved  well  north  of  the  parallel,  by  reason  of  the  development  of  the 
Northwest  and  the  State  of  Washington,  and  the  increase  of  population  in  New  England. 

The  Railroads  of  the  United  States  have  cost  $9,030,000,000,  and  employ  1,000,000 
persons.  There  are  over  200,000  miles  of  track,  with  30,000  locomotives,  27,000  passen- 
ger-cars, and  over  1,100,000  other  cars.  Their  capital  stock  is  $4,640,000,000,  with 
funded  debts  of  $4,800,000,000,  yearly  traffic  earnings  of  $1,000,000,000  (two  thirds  from 
freight),  net  earnings  of  $318,000,000,  and  dividends  of  $84,000,000  yearly.  The  Ameri- 
can telegraph  lines  extend  for  250,000  miles,  with  800,000  miles  of  wire,  26,000  offices,  and 
42,000  employees,  mostly  pertaining  to  the  Western  Union  system. 

Manufactories  in  1860  numbered  140,000,  using  $1,000,000,000  in  materials,  with  a 
yearly  product  of  $1,900,000,000.  In  1880,  they  numbered  254,000,  using  $3,400,000,000  in 
materials,  and  producing  $5,370,000,000  yearly.  The  annual  product  of  flouring  and  grist 
mills  was  $500,000,000;  of  slaughter-houses,  $300,000,- 
ooo;  of  iron  and  steelworks,  $300,000,000;  of  woolens, 
$270,000,000;  of  lumber,  $230,000,000;  of  foundry  pro- 
ducts, cotton  goods,  men's  clothing,  and  boots 
and  shoes,  about  $200,000,000  each.  Two 
thirds  of  the  manufactures  are  in  New  England 
and  New  York,  New  Jersey  and  Pennsylvania. 

The  Cities  are  growing  much  faster  than 
the  country.  In  1790  there  were  only  six  cities 
with  more  than  8,000  inhabitants.  By  1840, 
these  had  increased  to  44;  in  1880,  to  286  ; 
and  in  1890,  to  443.  In  1790  there  was  no 
city  with  as  many  as  100,000  inhabitants; 
but  in  1890  there  were  28.  PENNSYLVANIA:  UNITED-STATES  MINT,  AT  PHILADELPHIA. 


26 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 


The  progress  of  the  United  States  has  been  rich  in  benefits  to  the  world,  and  has  been 
marked  by  the  development  of  many  illustrious  men.  In  invention,  she  has  produced  Morse 
and  Fulton,  Edison  and  Whitney  ;  in  science,  Silliman  and  Dana  ;  in  military  science,  Grant 
and  Sherman  and  Sheridan;  in  statesmanship,  Washington  and  Jefferson,  Franklin  and 
Lincoln ;  and  in  oratory,  Webster  and  Clay.  To  the  romancers  of  the  world  she  has  given 
Hawthorne  and  Cooper  and  Howells ;  to  the  poets,  Longfellow  and  Whittier,  Holmes  and 
Bryant ;  to  the  historians,  the  Bancrofts  and  Parkman,  Prescott  and  Motley  ;  to  the  essayists, 
Lowell  and  Emerson;  and  to  the  masters  of  literary  style,  Washington  Irving.  The 
Union  of  States  still  nobly  advances,  marvellous  in  her  potentialities,  and  at  peace  with  all 
the  world.  And  within  her  , ,  own  borders,  the  sometime 


forgetful  States  have  nobly 
their  old-time  Revolution- 
who  said  :  "The  distinc- 
Pennsylvanians,  New- 
landers,  are  no  more.  I 
American."  And  now, 
full  truth  in  Jefferson's 
the  Union  is  in  the  heart- 
In  its  perilous  phases  sec- 
and  remains  now  mainly  as 
stead  pride.  Gen.  Sherman 
should  be  proud  of  his 
of  a  part.  Therefore,  I 
men  of  the  South  will  culti- 


returned  to  the  doctrine  of 
ary  hero,  Patrick  Henry, 
tions  between  Virginians, 
Yorkers,  and  New-Eng- 
am  not  a  Virginian,  but  an 
more  than  ever,  there  is 
words  :  "The  cement  of 
blood  of  every  American. " 
tionalism  has  passed  away, 
a  proper  local  and  home- 
wrote  :  "  Every  American 
whole  country,  rather  than 
hope  and  pray  that  the  new 
vate  a  pride  in  the  whole 


United  States  of  America,  instead  of  the  mere  State  of  birth.  How  much  more  sublime 
the  thought  that  you  live  at  the  root  of  a  tree  whose  branches  reach  the  beautiful  fields  of 
western  New  York  and  the  majestic  canons  of  the  Yellowstone,  and  that  with  every  draught 
of  water  you  take  the  outflow  of  the  pure  lakes  of  Minnesota  and  drippings  of  the  dews  of 
the  Alleghany  and  Rocky  Mountains."  Millions  of  Americans  are  growing  into  this  broader 
Nationalism,  the  spirit  of  Philip  Nolan,  as  he  said  to  the  young  naval  ensign  :  "Remember, 
boy,  that  behind  all  these  men  you  have  to  do  with,  behind  officers  and  Government  and 
people,  even,  there  is  the  Country  Herself,  your  Country,  and  that  you  belong  to  Her  as 
you  belong  to  your  own  mother." 

ACKNOWLEDGMENT.  — In  his  effort  to  make  this  Handbook  of  the  United  States  a 
portrayal  of  the  chief  traits  of  the  Great  Republic,  historic,  scenic,  economic,  and  industrial,  the 
author  has  been  put  under  many  obligations.  It  was  not  enough  that  the  description  of  each 
State  should  be  ilhtstrated  by  scores  of  pictures  and  explained  by  a  new  map  engraved  for  the 
purpose.  Multitudes  of  facts,  accounts,  descriptions  and  statistics  had  to  be  collected  from  all 
sources.  In  the  two  years  devoted  to  this  search  the  author  has  received  the  kindest  assistance 
from  the  public  officials,  both  State  and  National.  They  have  not  only  furnished  htindreds  of 
volumes  of  the  latest  official  reports,  but  have  in  many  instances  written  out  special  mono- 
graphs to  be  used  in  the  Handbook.  Citizens  prominent  in  public  life  and  in  literature, 
without  even  the  slight  claim  upon  their  attention  that  an  official  position  might  give,  have 
revised  the  manuscript  and  enriched  it  by  their  suggestions.  To  statesmen  like  Sherman  of 
Ohio,  Dolph  of  Oregon,  Stewart  of  Nevada,  Hampton  of  South  Carolina,  Bayard  of  Dela- 
ware, Miller  of  Iowa,  Ingalls  of  Kansas,  Prince  of  New  Mexico,  Fitzhugh  Lee  of  Virginia, 
— and  to  men  of  letters,  like  Angell  of  Michigan,  Cable  of  Louisiana,  Petroff  of  Alaska, 
Mitchell  of  Connecticut,  Thwaites  of  Wisconsin,  Goodell  of  Massachusetts,  and  Bancroft  oj 
California,  no  thanks  adequate  to  the  services  they  have  rendered  can  be  given.  While  to  the 
author  and  the  publisher  belongs  the  responsibility  for  the  short-comings  of  the  book,  a  great  part 
of  its  merits  is  due  to  the  generous  assistance  of  these  and  many  other  distinguished  Americans. 


5TATP-HdU.se 


•  CoTToR 


STT^TE 


STATISTICS. 


Settled  at  . 
Settled  in  . 
Founded  by 


Mobile  Bay. 
.  .  1702 
Frenchmen. 


Admitted  to  the  U.  S.,    . 
Population  in  1860,       .     . 

In  1870, 

In  1880, 

In  1890  (U.  S.  Census), 

White 

Colored, 

Voting  Population,      .     . 

Vote  for  Harrison  (1888), 

Vote  for  Cleveland  (1888) 
Net  Public  Debt,  . 
Area  (square  miles), 


1819 

964,201 

996,992 

1,262,505 


830,796 
681,431 
259,884 
57,197 
i),     117,320 
$11,992,619 
.     .    52,250 


HISTORY. 

At  the  dawn  of  her  his- 
tory,   Alabama     contained 

four  tribes  of  aborigines,  the 

civilized  and  hospital  Cher- 

okees,  in  the  northeast,  in 

a  region  that  they  always 

called  Chiaha ;  the  warlike 

and  heroic  Chickasaws,  in 

the    northwest,    along    the 

Tennessee,  the  Tombigbee  and  the  Upper  Yazoo;  the 
friendly  Choctaws,  in  the  west  and  southwest ;  and  the  Mus- 
cogees  (or  Creeks),  called  by  Bancroft  "the  most  powerful 
nation  north  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,"  west  of  the  Ocmulgee. 
The  first  historical  mention  of  Alabama  deals  with  the 
marches  of  Hernando  De  Soto,  the  Spanish  cavalier,  with 
620  knights  and  priests,  crossbowmen  and  arquebusiers  of 
Spain,  who  landed  at  Tampa  Bay,  crossed  Georgia,  and 
entered  Alabama  in  July,  1540  (80  years  before  the  Pil- 
grims arrived  at  Plymouth).  The  army  visited  Coosa, 
Tallasee,  and  other  Indian  towns,  in  search  of  a  land  of 
gold ;  and  then  marched  by  Piachee  to  Maubila  (whence 
comes  the  name  of  Mobile).  Here  they  were  fiercely  at- 
tacked, and  during  a  long  day's  battle  in  and  around  the 
burning  town,  the  Spaniards  defeated  the  natives,  losing 
1 68  men,  and  slaying  2,500.  Thence  the  European  army 
moved  through  the  lonely  land  of  Pafallaya,  and  up  the 
Tombigbee  Valley  into  Mississippi,  fighting  many  a  bloody 
battle,  and  enduring  and  causing  frightful  sufferings.  One 
hundred  and  sixty- two  years  later,  the  Sieur  de  Bienville, 
"the  Father  of  Alabama,"  transferred  his  French  colony 
from  Biloxi  to  Dog  River,  on  Mobile  Bay,  and  erected  Fort 
St.  Louis  de  la  Mobile.  In  1711,  he  moved  to  the  present 
site  of  Mobile.  A  few  years  later,  English  traders  from 
Georgia  built  a  stockade  at  Ocfuskee ;  and  Gen.  Oglethorpe 
made  a  treaty  with  the  Muscogees,  at  Coweta.  After  the  cession  of  the  trans-Alleghany 
country  to  Great  Britain,  at  the  peace  of  1763,  the  part  of  Alabama  south  of  Selma  and 
Montgomery  was  included  in  the  district  of  West  Florida,  and  the  unsettled  country  to  the 


U.  S.  Representatives  (1893),  9 

Militia  (Disciplined),     .     .     .     2,954 

Counties, 67 

Post-offices 2,028 

Railroads  (miles),  ....  3,422 
Manufactures  (yearly  in 

1880), $13,566,000 

Operatives, 10,019 

Yearly  Wages,    .     .     .    $2,500,000 

Farm  Land  (in  acres),     .     18,855,000 

Farm-Land  Values,     .  $79,000,000 

Farm  Products  (yearly)  $57,000,000 

School  Children,  enrolled,       259,432 

Newspapers, 180 

Latitude,  ....  3opi3'  to  35°  N. 
Longitude,  .  .  7°5i/  to  io°38'  W. 
Temperature,  ....  5°  to  107° 
Mean  Temperature  (Mobile),  66° 

TEN  CHIEF  CITIES  AND  THEIR   POP- 
ULATIONS.    (Census  of  1890.) 

Mobile 31,076 

Birmingham, 26,178 

Montgomery, 21,883 

Anniston 9,998 

Huntsville, 71995 

Selma, 71622 

Florence, 6,012 

Bessemer, 4,544 

Eufaula, 4,394 

Tuskaloosa, 4,215 


28 


KING^S   HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


MONTGOMERY  :    SOLDIERS' 
MONUMENT. 


north  belonged  to  the  district  of  Illinois.  Montgomery  lay  in  Florida,  and  Wetumpka  in 
Illinois.  The  people  here  were  so  few,  and  so  remote  from  the  Atlantic  settlements,  that 
they  did  not  unite  with  the  Thirteen  Colonies  in  their  conflict  with  England.  Envoys  and 
agitators  sent  from  the  United  States  were  seized  and  imprisoned  in  the  stone  keep  of  Fort 
Charlotte.  When  Spain  declared  war  against  the  mother-country,  Galvez,  the  governor  of 
Louisiana,  with  2,000  soldiers,  besieged  and  captured  Mobile,  even  then  a  French  town. 
The  Spaniards  held  the  country  until  1798,  as  a  part  of  Florida.  Georgia 
also  claimed  nearly  all  of  Alabama  and  Mississippi,  under  her  royal  charter 
of  1 665,  and  in  1 798  and  1 802  ceded  them  to  the  United  States  for  $  1 , 250,  OOO. 
About  1790,  American  pioneers  began  to  settle  in  the  northern  valleys. 
In  1798,  Congress  formed  Mississippi  and  Alabama,  from  31°  to  32°  28',  and 
between  the  Mississippi  River  and  the  Chattahoochee,  into  the  Mississippi 
Territory ;  and  four  years  later,  the  Territorial  boundary  was  carried  north  to 
the  Tennessee  line.  The  Indians  ceded  vast  domains  to  the  incoming  Ameri- 
cans, by  the  treaties  of  1805 ;  but  Tecumseh  aroused  the  Creeks  to  war,  and 
in  1813  they  destroyed  Fort  Mimms,  with  its  500  inmates.  Gen. 
Coffee  retaliated  by  killing  186  Indians  in  battle  at  Tallaseehatchee ; 
Andrew  Jackson  won  the  fight  atTalladega ;  Gen.  White  destroyed 
Hillabee;  and  after  many  other  engagements,  Jackson  slew  600 
Creeks  at  the  Horse-Shoe  Bend,  losing  210  men  himself.  In  the 
30  engagements  of  the  Creek  war  4,000  Indians  were  killed.  The 
Spanish  power  at  Mobile  was  broken  by  Gen.  Wilkinson's  army  from  New  Orleans,  in 
1813;  and  a  British  attack  on  Fort  Bowyer,  at  Mobile  Point,  met  a  disastrous  repulse,  fol- 
lowed by  Jackson's  capture  of  Pensacola.  In  1817,  Congress  organized  the  Territory  of 
Alabama,  with  its  present  boundaries,  and  St.  Stephens  as  the  capital.  Two  years  later, 
Alabama  became  a  State,  then  having  about  127, ooo  inhabitants,  besides  the  Indians.  Cahaba 
became  the  capital  in  1820;  Tuskaloosa,  in  1826  ;  and  Montgomery  in  1847.  After  frequent 
Indian  wars,  mainly  with  the  Creeks,  the  tribes  were  removed  to  the  Indian  Territory,  the 
Choctaws  in  1830,  the  Chickasaws  in  1834,  the  Cherokees  in  1836,  and  the  Creeks  in  1837. 
The  population  in  1860  included  526,271  whites,  435,080  negro  slaves  (owned  by  30,000 
persons)  and  2,690  free  negroes.  Alabama  was  then  the  fifth  State  in  the  value  of  its  agri- 
cultural products,  and  the  seventh  in  wealth. 
Its  valuation  sunk  from  $792,000,000  in 
1860  to  $202,000,000  in  1865  (partly  due  to 
the  emancipation  of  the  slaves). 

Late  in  1 860  the  National  forts  at  Mobile 
were  occupied  by  Alabama  troops ;  and  in 
January,  1861,  by  a  vote  of  6 1  to  39,  the 
State  seceded  from  the  Union.  In  the  mourn- 
ful conflict  which  followed,  she  sent  into  the 
field  122,000  soldiers  (in  69  regiments  of 

infantry,  12  of  cavalry,  and  27  batteries),  one  fourth  of  whom  died 
in  the  Confederate  service.  The  northern  counties  long  remained 
devoted  to  the  Republic,  and  desired  to  erect  themselves  into  a  new 
State.  The  chief  local  events  were  Forrest's  capture  of  Streight's 
1,700  Union  cavalry,  in  Cherokee  County;  Rousseau's  raid  through 
the  southern  counties ;  and  Farragut's  attack  on  Mobile,  resulting  in  the  capture  of  Forts 
Morgan  and  Gaines,  and  followed  by  the  reduction  of  Spanish  Fort,  the  storming  of  Blakely, 
and  the  occupation  of  Mobile  (in  April,  1865),  by  Gen.  Canby's  Union  army  of  45,000  men 
after  much  fighting.  At  the  same  time,  Gen.  Wilson,  with  9,000  mounted  troops  from 
the  north,  stormed  Selma,  destroying  the  Arsenal  and  Navy  Yard,  and  occupied  Montgomery. 
Several  thousand  white  Alabamians  served  bravely  in  the  National  armies, 


THE  STATE   OF  ALABAMA. 


29 


THE   ALABAMA    RIVER. 


The  re-establishment  of  the  National  power  was 
followed  by  unhappy  years  of  carpet-bag  adminis- 
tration, when  the  treasury  of  the  State  suffered 
from  venal  legislation,  and  her  standard  eight 
per  cent,  bonds  fell  to  20  cents  on  the  dollar. 
Emerging  at  last  from  this  cloud,  Alabama  has  re- 
sumed her  place  as  one  of  the  most  conservative  of 
the  Southern  States,  with  a  strong  and  capable 
"white  man's  government."  Within  ten  years  a 
wonderful  and  unexampled  development  of  mineral 
wealth  has  gone  forward,  in  the  northern  part  of 
the  State,  which  is  already  entering  into  competition  with  Pennsylvania  as  a  producer  of  coal 
and  iron.  The  output  of  pig-iron  alone  mounted  from  449,492  tons  in  1888  to  791,425 
in  1889,  and  is  still  increasing,  and  building  up  new  cities. 

The  Name  of  Alabama  comes  from  its  chief  river,  the  word  being  of  Indian  origin 
and  unknown  meaning.  There  is  a  poetic  legend  that  an  exiled  Indian  tribe  reached  the 
great  river,  and  its  chief  struck  his  spear  into  the  shore  exclaiming,  Alabama!  —  that  is  to 
say  :  "Here  we  rest."  Fragments  of  the  Alabama  tribe  now  live  in  Texas  and  Louisiana. 
Alabama  is  sometimes  called  THE  COTTON-PLANTA- 
TION STATE. 

The  Arms  of  Alabama  bear  an  eagle,  with  raised 
wings,  alighting  upon  the  National  shield,  and  bear- 
ing three  arrows  in  his  left  talon.  He  holds  in  his 
beak  a  floating  streamer,  inscribed  with  the  words 
HERE  WE  REST.  This  nobly  patriotic  device  was 
adopted  in  1868,  to  replace  the  older  seal,  a  rude  out- 
line map  of  Alabama  fastened  to  a  tree. 

The  Governors  of  Alabama  have  been  William 
WyattBibb,  1817-20;  Thomas  Bibb,  1820-21 ;  Israel 
Pickens,  1821-25;  John  Murphy,  1825-9;  Samuel 
B.  Moore,  1829-31;  John  Gayle,  1831-5;  Clement  Comer  Clay,  1835-7;  Hugh  McVay, 
1837;  Arthur  Pendleton  Bagby,  1837-41;  Benjamin  Fitzpatrick,  1841-5;  Reuben  Chap- 
man, 1847-9;  Henry  Watkins  Collier,  1849-53;  John  Anthony  Winston,  1853-7;  Andrew 
Barry  Moore,  1857-61;  John  Gill  Shorter,  1861-3;  Thomas  Hill  Watts,  1863-5  ;  Lewis 
Eliphalet  Parsons,  1 865  (provisional);  Robert  Miller  Patton,  1865-8;  William  Henry  Smith, 
1868-70;  Robert  Burns  Lindsay,  1870;  David  C.  Lewis,  1872-4;  George  Smith  Houston, 
1874-8 ;  Rufus  W.  Cobb,  1878-82  ;  Edward  Asbury  O'Neal,  1882-6  ;  Thomas  Seay,  1886-90 ; 
and  Thos.  G.  Jones,  1890-2. 

Descriptive. — Alabama  is  from  150  to  202  miles  wide,  between  Georgia  and  Missis- 
sippi, and  from  278  to  336  miles  long,  between  Tennessee  and  Florida  and  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico.  It  is  larger  than  New  York  or  Pennsylvania,  Virginia  or  England.  The  northeast 

contains  the  declining  Alleghany  ridges,  melting 

away  toward  the  south  into  a  broken  hill-country, 
and  then  into  extensive  plains,  which  for  60  miles 
inland  are  almost  on  the  sea-level.  There  are 
four  great  divisions  of  the  State  —  the  cereal, 
mineral,  cotton,  and  timber  regions.  The  beauti- 
ful Tennessee  Valley,  in  the  temperate  and  health- 
ful north,  is  a  rich  agricultural  country,  rising 
toward  the  east  into  the  long  blue  highlands  of 
the  Raccoon  and  Lookout  ranges.  The  Alabama 
section  of  the  valley  is  200  miles  long  and  20 


MOBILE  :    THE   SHELL   ROAD. 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


MOBILE  :     GOVERNMENT    STREET. 


miles  wide,  covering  eight  counties,  with  180,000  inhabitants.  This  is  the  Cereal  Belt,  its 
fertile  red  lands  producing  grains  and  grasses,  cotton  and  fruits,  with  noble  mountain-walls 
sheltering  it  alike  from  the  icy  northern  winds  and  the  intense  heats  of  the  southern  plains, 
and  traversed  by  rich  lateral  valleys,  abounding  in  farms.  The 
Mountain  and  Mineral  Region  covers  the  northeast,  and  the 
Alleghany  Mountains,  which  open  out  across  all  north-central 
Alabama,  with  5,500  square  miles  of  rich  coal-meas- 
ures, and  vast  deposits  of  iron-ore  and  limestone.  It  in- 
cludes 28  counties,  with  400,000  inhabitants.  The 
Agricultural  Region,  70  miles  wide,  clear  across  the 
State,  comes  next,  between  33°  and  31°  40',  in  the  rot- 
ten limestone  formation,  scarce  of  water,  but  on  the 
west  occupied  by  fertile  bald  prairie  and  wooded  prairie. 
This  is  the  celebrated  Black  Belt,  or  Cane-Brake  Region, 
where  the  negroes  greatly  predominate  in  numbers,  raising 
vast  quantities  of  cotton  from  the  richest  of  lands.  It  in- 
cludes 17  counties,  with  over  500,000  inhabitants.  The  Piney- Woods  Region  extends  from 
the  Black  Belt  to  the  Gulf,  more  than  a  hundred  miles  wide,  abounding  in  long-leaf  and  yel- 
low pine,  and  low  and  miasmatic  along  the  rivers  and  coast,  but  elsewhere  undulating,  with 
a  sandy  soil.  The  summers  are  long,  but  tempered  by  the  Gulf 
breezes,  and  vary  between  73°  and  94°.  Here  grow  the  magnolia 
and  the  sweet-bay,  gigantic  water-oaks  and  live-oaks,  black  gums 
and  venerable  cypresses.  Turpentine  and  rosin  are  valued  pro- 
ducts ;  and  vast  quantities  of  lumber  are  shipped  thence.  The 
land  is  very  cheap ;  and  the  exporting  of  naval  stores  is  facilitated 
by  the  navigable  bays  and  entrances  along  the  coast. 

The  Gulf  coast  of  Alabama,  only  50  miles  long,  is  broken 
by  Mobile  Bay,  entering  the  land  for  30  miles,  and  navigable 
by  an  artificial  channel  for  vessels  drawing  19  feet  of  water.  The 
deep  and  broad  Mobile  River,  50  miles  long,  enters  the  bay 
at  its  head.  It  is  formed  by  the  powerful  Alabama  (312  miles  long,  and  from  600  to  800 
feet  broad),  and  the  Tombigbee  (navigable  for  393  miles,  to  Fulton).  The  Black  Warrior  (300 
miles  long)  is  navigable  from  Tuskaloosa  to  its  union  with  the  Tombigbee,  at  Demopolis. 
The  Coosa  is  355  miles  long,  navigable  for  its  lower  ten  miles,  up  to  the  falls  at  Wetumpka, 
above  which  there  are  145  miles  of  rapids  and  rough  waters.  At  Greensport  begins  another 
navigable  reach,  1 80  miles  long,  to  Rome,  furnishing  trade  for  six  steamboats.  The  Talla- 
poosa  is  a  picturesque  stream  225  miles  long,  without  commerce,  on  account  of  its  rapid 
waters.  The  Chattahoochee  may  be  ascended  for  350  miles,  to  Columbus.  The  noble  Ten- 
nessee River,  heading  southward  from  Virginia  toward  the  Gulf,  is  repelled  by  the  rocky  bar- 
riers of  northern  Alabama,  and  sweeps  around  toward  the  north,  with  250  miles  of  its  course 
within  this  State,  navigable  by  steamboats  from  Decatur 
to  Knoxville,  and  from  Florence  to  the  Ohio  River.  The 
rocky  Muscle  Shoals  long  prevented  the  passage  of 
steamboats  between  Decatur  and  Florence  (38  miles). 
The  Government  has  spent  $4,000,000  in  building  a 
canal  around  the  Shoals,  and  in  1889  the  first  steam- 
boat traversed  this  avenue  of  commerce. 

The  Climate  of  Alabama  shows  a  mean  yearly 
temperature  of  65. 2°  (and  53^  inches  of  rainfall)  at  Mont- 
gomery, and  66. 7°  (and  64^  inches  of  rainfall)  at  Mobile. 
The  variations  are  from  82°  to  1 8°  Fahrenheit  in  winter,  and  from  105°  to  60°  in  summer. 
This  is  the  temperature  of  Sydney,  Valparaiso  and  Algiers.     The  autumn  and  winter  winds 


MOBILE  :     COTTON    EXCHANGE. 


GREENSBORO  I     SOUTHERN    UNIVERSITY. 


THE  STATE   OF  ALABAMA. 


are  from  the  northeast  and  northwest ;  the  summer  winds  from  the  southeast.  The  pic- 
turesque hill-country  is  cool  and  healthy,  with  a  genial  and  temperate  climate.  The  lowland 
counties  sometimes  suffer  from  summer  heat,  and  from  malaria  along  the  Gulf  and  rivers, 
and  intermittent  and  congestive  fevers.  Snow  is  seldom  seen,  and  the  rivers  never  freeze  over. 
Agriculture  employs  400,000  Alabamians,  on  140,000  farms,  with  $80,000,000  worth  of 
land  and  buildings,  $4,000,000  in  machinery,  and  $25,000,000  in  live  stock,  the  yearly  pro- 
ducts being  valued  at  $57,000,000.  The  latter  include  700,000  bales  of  cotton,  450,000 
pounds  of  tobacco,  810,000  pounds  of  rice,  40,000,000  bushels  of  cereals  (mainly  corn  and 
oats)  and  52,000  tons  of  hay.  Cotton,  the  great  staple  of  Alabama,  grows  mainly  in  the  Black 
Belt  and  the  Tennessee  and  Coosa  valleys.  Mississippi,  Georgia,  and  Texas  alone  surpass 
Alabama  in  this  product.  There  are  114,000  horses,  121,000  mules,  800,000  cattle,  350,000 
sheep,  and  1 , 400,  ooo  swine.  The  dairy  products  are  8,000,000  pounds  of  butter  and  270,000 

gallons  of  milk.      During  the  decade  of 
the  Secession  War,  over  1,000,000  acres 
of  Alabama  farms  relapsed  into  the  wil- 
derness,  and  the  live-stock  and  farm- 
products  were  reduced  by  one-half.    The 
totals  of  production  in  1860  have  never 
been  reached 
since.      The  de- 
cadence of  Ala- 

^ bama  as  an  agri- 
cultural State  is  at- 
tributed by  Dr.  Hil- 
gard  to  the  exhaus- 
tion of    her  soil  by 
improvident  culture, 
and  by  Col.  Milner  to 
the  dearth  of  labor, 
caused  by  the  indolence  of  the  negroes, 
now    no    longer    compelled    to    work. 
Latterly,  improved  methods  are  being 
adopted,  with  increased  willingness  to 
labor  and  intelligence  in    adaptation. 
Supplies  are  produced  at  home,  crops 


LAhDS   OF   THE   ALABAMA    LAND   AND    DEVELOPMENT   CO. 

are  diversified,  and  increased  attention  is  paid  to  stock-raising  and  grasses.  The  soil  is  rich 
and  productive,  except  in  the  south,  much  of  which  is  sandy,  and  occupied  by  noble  pine 
woods.  In  the  north  and  centre  are  large  forests  of  oaks,  pines,  hickories,  poplars,  chest- 
nuts, cedars,  mulberries,  elms  and  cypresses.  There  are  extensive  areas  of  public  lands, 
the  land-office  being  at  Montgomery. 

Along  the  borders  of  Alabama  and  Mississippi,  from  Aberdeen  to  the  Gulf,  extends  a  belt 
of  850,000  acres  of  land,  traversed  and  owned  by  the  Mobile  &  Ohio  Railroad,  and  controlled 
by  the  Alabama  Land  and  Development  Company,  of  Mobile.  Parts  of  this  imperial  domain 
lie  in  the  prairie  and  flat-woods  belts,  but  most  of  its  Alabama  section  is  in  the  long-leaf- 
pine  belt  of  Washington  and  Mobile  counties,  a  region  of  sandy  loam,  cultivated  with  extra- 
ordinary ease,  and  already  largely  devoted  to  truck  and  fruit  farms.  The  National  Government, 
through  the  States  of  Alabama  and  Mississippi,  granted  these  lands  to  the  railway,  which 
sells  them  at  from  $1.50  to  $15  an  acre,  with  long  credits.  Large  areas  have  already  been 
thus  disposed  of  in  Washington  County,  the  oldest  county  in  the  State,  and  the  seat  of  St. 
Stephens,  its  first  capital ;  and  other  tracts  have  been  taken  up  near  Mobile,  on  the  west. 
The  genial  climate  renders  it  possible  to  raise  several  crops  yearly,  with  level  and  shallow 
cultivation,  and  skillful  fertilizing. 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 


In  this  beautiful  and  highly  diversified  Commonwealth  there  is  almost  every  variety  of 
scenery,  climate  and  product.  Thus  immigrants  and  investors  find  interest  in  Escambia's 
great  forests  of  yellow-heart  pine ;  Blount's  deep  caverns  and  famous  apple-orchards ;  the 

gray  prairies  of  Bullock  and  Butler ;  the  ham- 
mocks of  Conecuh ;  the  Tyrolese  scenery  of 
Etowah  and  Marshall ;  the  alluvial  cane-brake 
region  of  Marengo;  the  corn-lands  of  Mont- 
gomery and  Wilcox ;  the  coal-fields  of  Walker 
and  Jefferson  ;  the  gold  mines  of  Talladega  ;  and 
many  other  features  of  the  mountain  and  plain 
counties. 

SPRING-HILL  COLLEGE,  NEAR  MOBILE.  The  Minerais  of  Alabama  are  of  great  in- 

terest, and  their  development  seems  likely  to  change  the  State  from  an  agricultural  region  to 
a  manufacturing  and  mining  country  of  almost  limitless  resources.  The  Black-Warrior, 
Coosa  and  Cahaba  coal-fields  and  iron-beds  are  capable  of  enormous  development.  The 
iron  ore  in  sight  is  of  an  incalculable  amount,  the  Red-Mountain  vein  alone  being  30  feet 
thick,  half  a  mile  wide  and  100  miles  long.  The  close  proximity  of  inexhaustible  supplies  of 
bituminous  coal  makes  this  region,  with  its  genial  climate  and  rich  agricultural  valleys,  the 
cheapest  place  in  the  world  to  manufacture  iron.  Within  15  years  the  output  of  pig-iron 
in  Alabama  has  increased  twenty-fold,  and  the  State  now  ranks  next  to  Pennsylvania  and 
Ohio.  The  strata  are  from  six  to  150  feet  deep,  and  include  red  hematite  and  brown  ores. 
There  are  50  blast-furnaces  in  opera- 
tion, producing  yearly  1,000,000  tons 
of  pig-iron.  The  coal  yield  has  risen 
to  3> 380,000  tons.  Among  other 
mineral  products  are  granite,  white 
and  colored  marble  in  great  quanti- 
ties and  variety  (near  Talladega), 
flagstones,  roofing-slate,  lime,  soap- 
stone,  asbestos,  porcelain-clay,  ochre, 
and  manganese.  Gold,  copper,  graphite,  lead  and  corundum  are  also  found.  The  State  con- 
tains many  mineral  waters,  such  as  the  Blount,  Shelby,  Bladon,  Talladega,  Jackson,  White 
Sulphur  and  St.  Clair  Springs,  all  of  which  are  sulphurous.  There  are  also  chalybeate  and 
saline  springs.  At  these  points  stand  hotels  for  health-seekers,  open  all  the  year,  and  much 
visited  by  the  aristocracy  of  the  Gulf  cities.  Bladon  Springs  are  in  the  Piney  Woods,  four 
miles  from  the  Alabama  River,  with  carbonated  alkaline  water ;  Blount  Springs,  in  a  trian- 
gular valley,  1,580  feet  above  the  sea  ;  and  Bailey  Springs,  on  the  highlands  near  the  Muscle 
Shoals,  nine  miles  from  Florence.  The  Hotel  Monte  Sano,  near  Huntsville,  and  1,691  feet 
above  the  sea,  has  valuable  iron  and  alum  waters,  with  beautiful  scenery  and  invigorating  air. 
The  Hygeia  Hotel  is  a  sanitarium  at  Citronelle,  30  miles  north  of  Mobile,  in  the  pine- 
woods  ;  and  Spring  Hill,  overlooking  Mobile  and  the  bay, 
has  a  similar  institution,  together  with  many  delightful  villas. 
Anniston,  Verbena  and  Mountain  Creek  are  popular  vaca- 
tion-resorts in  the  hill-country;  and  many  health-seekers 
visit  Evergreen,  in  the  great  pine-woods.  The  foremost  of 
the  salt-water  pleasure-resorts  is  Point  Clear,  near  the  blue 
waters  of  Mobile  Bay. 

Government. — The  governor  is  elected  for  two  years, 
the  president  of  the  Senate  succeeding  in  case  of  removal. 
The  secretary  of  State,  treasurer,  auditor,  attorney -general, 
commissioner  of  agriculture,  and  superintendent  of  public  instruction  also  hold  for  two  years. 
The  General  Assembly,  composed  of  33  senators  and  100  representatives  (126  Democrats 


EAST    LAKE  :     HOWARD    COLLEGE. 


MOBILE  :     HIGH    SCHOOL. 


THE  STATE   OF  ALABAMA. 


33 


BIRMINGHAM  :    UNION    DEPOT. 


and  seven  others),  has  biennial  sessions,  of  not  more  than  50  days.  The  civil  divisions  of  the 
counties  are  called  "beats"  or  precincts,  instead  of  townships  or  parishes.  The  judiciary 
includes  the  Supreme  Court,  with  four  justices ;  the  ten  districts  of  the  circuit  courts,  with 
judges  elected  by  the  people  for  six  years ;  the  five  chancellors 
of  the  courts  of  chancery  in  equity  cases  (established  in  1839), 
and  the  probate  courts.  There  are  United-States  District 
Courts  at  Birmingham,  Montgomery  and  Mobile.  The  Capi- 
tol, at  Montgomery,  is  a  substantial  building  with  a 
many-columned  Grecian  portico,  and  a  high  dome.  It 
stands  on  Capitol  Hill,  at  the  head  of  Dexter  Avenue, 
and  dates  from  1849.  Here  the  Confederate  Govern- 
ment was  organized,  February  6,  1 86 1,  and  the  Con- 
federate Congress  held  its  earlier  sessions. 
The  Alabama  State  Troops  have  shown  great  efficiency 
at  different  times,  when  called  out  to  support  the  civil  authorities.  They  are  armed  with 
Springfield  breech-loaders,  the  artillery  including  Gatlings,  Napoleons  and  three-inch  rifles. 
The  First  Regiment  has  its  headquarters  at  Mobile ;  the  Second,  at  Birmingham ;  and  the 
Third  at  Selma.  There  are  four  batteries  and  two  troops  attached  to  the  regiments.  Mobile 
and  Montgomery  have  colored  companies.  The  State  Troops  hold  regiment-  ^  al  encamp- 
ments, for  a  week  in  summer,  and  are  inspected  by  United-States 
army  officers. 

Charities  and  Corrections.  —  The  Institution  for  the  Bite  ^  v  " 

Deaf  and  Dumb,  at  Talladega,  was  opened  in  1860,  and  has 
53  inmates  (whites).  The  Alabama  Academy  for  the  Blind, 
formerly  united  with  the  above-named,  became  independent 
in  1887.  It  has  30  pupils  (whites).  The  State  Insane 
Asylum  was  opened  at  Tuskaloosa,  in  1 86 1,  and  has  340 
inmates.  The  State  Penitentiary  at  Wetumpka  dates  from 
1841.  The  county  convicts  are  farmed  out  to  contractors, 
and  kept  in  private  prisons  and  convict-camps,  where  they  formerly  suffered  incalcula- 
bly from  cruel  punishments,  vermin  and  sickness,  until,  in  many  cases,  death  set  them  free. 
Recently,  marked  improvement  has  been  made  in  this  system.  The  Rev.  F.  H.  Wines  of 
Illinois  pronounces  Alabama's  to  be  the  best  example  of  the  lease  system  in  the  Union.  The 
majority  of  the  able-bodied  convicts  work  in  the  mines  near  Birmingham.  The  report  of  the 
State  health  officers  for  1889  showed  a  mortality  of  20  per  cent,  in  the  Coalburg  prison- 
camp.  Alabama  has  1,500  insane  persons,  2,200  idiots,  1,400  blind,  700  deaf-mutes,  700 
paupers,  and  1,400  prisoners. 

National  Institutions. — The  Mount- Vernon  Barracks  occupy  a  high  plateau  28 
miles  .  north  of  Mobile,  with  their  massive  buildings  amid  oak  and  magnolia 
groves,  surrounded  by  heavy  brick  walls.  This  is  one  of  the  handsomest 
posts  of  the  army;  and  dates  from  1829,  when  Andrew  Jackson  ordered 
an  arsenal  to  be  established  here,  on  the  site  of  one  of 
his  favorite  camp-grounds.  In  1873  it  was  trans- 
formed into  a  barrack,  now  occupied  by  part  of 
the  4th  United- States  Artillery.  In  1889-91 
Geronimo,  Nana,  Loco,  and  380  other  Arizona 
Apaches,  prisoners  of  war,  were  quartered  here, 
under  active  religious  and  educational  influences. 
The  United-States  Marine  Hospital  is  at  Mobile. 
Fort  Morgan,  30  miles  south  of  Mobile,  was 
founded  in  1819,  on  the  site  of  Fort  Bowyer,  and  cost  $1,250,000.  Fort  Gaines  is  a  pen- 
tagonal work  on  Dauphin  Island,  three  miles  from  Fort  Morgan^  across  the  channel.  Neither 


BIRMINGHAM  :     COURT-HOUSE. 


MONTGOMERY  :     COLORED   SCHOOLS. 


34  KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 

of  these  works  is  garrisoned.     The  lighthouses  are  on  Sand  Island,  Mobile  Point  (Fort  Mor- 
gan), Dog- River  Bar,  Choctaw  Pass  and  Battery  Gladden. 

Education,  in  its  higher  forms,  began  with  Greene  Academy,  at  Huntsville,  in  1812.  A 
good  public-school  system  was  inaugurated  in  1854,  but  the  war  and  reconstruction  crippled 
it  seriously.  The  normal  schools  have  all  been  founded  since  1872,  and  contain  1,200  stu- 
dents. The  normal  schools  for  whites  are  at  Florence,  Jacksonville,  Livingston  and  Troy. 
In  1880,  Alabama,  out  of  a  population  of  1,262,505,  had  433,447  persons  above  the  age  of 
ten  who  could  not  write.  This  appalling  army  of  illiterates  is  mainly  composed  of  negroes 
and  rustics ;  ±  and  the  local  educators  are  making  earnest  efforts  to  secure  more  and 

better  means  to  reduce  the  prevailing  ignorance.  Ala- 
bama has  a  school  population  of  485,551,  with  an  aver- 
age  daily  attendance  of  1 62, 5 1 6.  The  school  age  is  from 
7  to  21 ;  the  average  duration  of  the  school  year,  155 
days  in  the  cities,  and  70  days  in  the  country ;  the  yearly 
expense,  $  7 50,  ooo.  The  Teachers'  Reading  Circle,  the 
Colored  Teachers'  Association,  the  State  Teachers'  As- 
~~~*  sociation  (white),  the  Congressional  (District)  Teachers' 
Institutes,  and  other  active  agencies  are  achieving  a  good 

HUNTSVILLE  :     THE    POST-OFFICE.  ,...  ,  ,  si  jj 

work  in  raising  the  educational  standard. 

The  University  of  Alabama  occupies  an  estate  of  500  acres,  at  Tuskaloosa,  with  18  pro- 
fessors and  240  students.  It  was  opened  in  1831,  and  has  an  endowment  of  $300,000,  from 
lands  granted  by  Congress  in  1802,  and  held  in  trust  by  the  State,  which  pays  eight  per  cent, 
a  year.  The  National  troops  burned  the  building,  in  1865  ;  and  there  are  now  four  new  edi- 
fices, enclosing  a  quadrangle,  with  Clark  Hall,  containing  the  great  hall  and  the  library  (of 
9,000  volumes).  The  three  courses  are  classical,  scientific,  and  civil  engineering,  with  a  law 
department  containing  19  pupils.  Military  training  is  a  prominent  feature.  The  State  Agri- 
cultural and  Mechanical  College,  at  Auburn,  in  the  Cereal  Belt,  arose  in  1872,  as  one  of  the 
National  land-grant  schools  of  science ;  and  has  12  instructors  and  250  pupils.  The  Southern 
University,  at  Greensboro,  pertains  to  the  M.  E.  Church  South,  and  has  12  instructors  and 
220  students.  Before  the  war  it  was  a  rich  institution,  and  it  is  now  slowly  regaining  its  former 
dignity.  Howard  College  is  a  Baptist  institution,  founded  in  1842,  at  Marion,  and  since  1887 
located  at  East  Lake,  five  miles  from  Birmingham,  in  the  Ruhama  Valley.  Spring- Hill  Col- 
lege is  a  Catholic  institution  near  Mobile,  opened  in  1830,  and  with  100  students.  The 
Medical  College  of  Alabama  was  founded  in  1859,  at  Mobile,  and  has  12  instructors  and  100 
students.  There  are  35  academies,  with  6,000  students,  including  the  colleges  for  women  at 
Anniston,  Tuskaloosa,  Tuskegee,  Huntsville,  Tuscum- 
bia,  Athens,  Eufaula,  Florence  and  Talladega. 

The  colored  people  of  Alabama  have  four  normal 
schools,  those  at  Huntsville  and  Mobile  being  older  than  -,* 
the  white  normal  schools.  The  State  Normal  and  In- 
dustrial School  was  founded  in  1881,  as  an  outgrowth 
of  the  Hampton  (Va.)  school,  and  has  been  very  suc- 
cessfully conducted  by  Booker  T.  Washington,  an  emi- 
nent colored  educator.  Its  corn-fields,  orchards,  work- 
shops  and  buildings  occupy  an  old  plantation  near  the  HUNTSVILLE  :  COUNTY  COURT-HOUSE. 
patrician  town  of  Tuskegee,  in  the  Black  Belt.  The  State  makes  a  yearly  appropriation, 
paying  part  of  the  expenses  of  this  school,  which  has  600  earnest  and  industrious  students. 
Talladega  College  was  founded  by  the  American  Missionary  Association  in  1867,  and  has 
several  buildings,  and  large  tracts  of  farm-lands.  There  are  427  colored  students,  none  of 
them  collegiate.  The  theological  school  for  Congregational  ministers  is  at  Talladega ;  that 
for  Baptists  is  at  Selma  University ;  and  the  Presbyterians  conduct  an  institute  for  training 
colored  ministers,  at  Tuskaloosa. 


THE  STATE   OF  ALABAMA. 


35 


BIRMINGHAM  :      SLOSS    IRON    &    STEEL   CO. 


The  State  has  3,000  Sunday  schools,  with  20,000 
teachers  and  160,000  pupils.  The  religious  pro- 
clivities of  the  people  incline  toward  the  Methodist 
and  Baptist  sects,  the  first  having  above  200,000 
members,  and  the  second  175,000.  There  are 
12,000  Presbyterians,  and  4,000  Episcopalians. 

Newspapers  came  to  Alabama  in  1812,  when 
Pasham  started  the  Madison  Gazette  at  Huntsville. 
St.  Stephens  followed  with  The  Halcyon,  in  1814; 
Mobile  with  The  Gazette,  in  1816  ;  and  Tuskaloosa 
with  The  Republican,  in  1818.  The  Florence  Ga- 
zette, Montgomery  Republican  and  Claiborne  Clarion 
appeared  in  1820.  Alabama  now  has  169  newspapers  (15  daily,  144  weekly,  and  8  monthly), 
with  an  average  circulation  of  68 1  copies.  Prominent  among  these  are  the  Mobile  Register 
(founded  in  1820),  Montgomery  Advertiser  (i&zK),  Selma  Times-Mail  (i%2$),  and  Birming- 
ham Age-Herald. 

The  Chief  Cities  of  Alabama  (except  Mobile)  are  modern,  and  some  of  them  have  risen 
with  marvelous  rapidity  in  the  last  15  years.  Mobile,  successively  French,  English,  Span- 
ish and  American,  and  the  commercial  metropolis  of  Alabama,  is  one  of  the  chief  cotton- 
depots  in  the  Union,  and  sends  away  230,000  bales 
yearly,  mainly  by  railway.  There  is  also  a  large 
trade  in  lumber  and  timber,  general  merchandise 
and  coffee,  coal  and  naval  stores,  besides  many 
profitable  manufactures.  The  broad  and  quiet 
streets  are  shaded  throughout  with  live-oaks  and 
magnolias,  and  the  gardens  are  fragrant  with  the 
perfumes  of  the  jessamine  and  the  orange.  Gov- 
ernment Street  has  many  beautiful  and  embowered 
residences ;  and  the  Shell  Road  is  a  famous  harbor- 
side  drive.  The  city  enjoys  extensive  railway  con- 
nections, and  has  steamship  lines  to  New  York  and 
Liverpool.  Montgomery,  near  the  centre  of  the 
State,  is  a  growing  city,  with  artesian  water,  street-cars,  and  electric  lights,  a  prosperous  rail- 
way centre,  and  a  winter  resort  for  Northerners,  who  enjoy  its  soft  air  and  embowered  streets. 
It  is  one  of  the  old-time  Southern  cities,  with  an  environment  of  large-pillared  country  seats, 
nestling  in  live-oak  groves,  and  a  State  Capitol  overlooking  a  great  expanse  of  country, 
through  which  flashes  the  silvery  line  of  the  Alabama  River.  Since  1865,  the  population 
has  quintupled,  and  many  factories  have  sprung  up.  One  hundred  and  thirty  thousand  bales 
of  cotton  are  handled  here  yearly. 

Birmingham,  the  foremost  city  of  Alabama,  is  in  Jones  Valley,  six  miles  from  Red  Moun- 
tain, which  contains  millions  of  tons  of  hematite  iron  ore,  close  to  inexhaustible  supplies  of 

coal  and  limestone.  Founded  in  1871,  by  the  Ely- 
ton  Land  Co.,  it  has  become  "the  Magic  City  of  the 
South,"  with  the  largest  rolling  mills  below  Rich- 
mond, manufacturing  rail  and  bar  iron,  plate  and 
sheet  iron,  and  factories  for  making  ice,  glass,  stoves, 
bridges,  chains,  steel  cars,  and  many  other  articles. 
It  is  recorded  that  Krupp,  the  Iron  King  of  Europe, 
said  :  "Should  fate  drive  me  from  Germany,  I  would 
go  to  Birmingham,  Alabama;"  and  the  London 
Times  prophesied .  that  this  is  bound  to  become 
ANNISTON  :  ST.  MICHAEL'S  AND  ALL  ANGELS.  the  greatest  metal-workers'  city  in  America.  The 


BIRMINGHAM  :    SLOSS    IRON    &    STEEL   CO. 


36  KING^S  HANDBOOK   OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 

contiguity  of  the  iron  and  coal  makes  it  possible  to  produce  the  metal  at  the  lowest  possible 
cost  for  labor  ;  and  the  convergence  here  of  six  railways  gives  unusual  facilities  for  shipment. 
Twenty-five  furnaces  are  now  at  work  in  and  near  this  city,  giving  cheap  iron  to  the  world. 
One  of  the  pioneers  in  the  astonishing  development  of  Ala- 
bama's mining  industries  was  the  Sloss  Furnace  Company  of 
Birmingham,  which  afterwards  bought  the  Coalburg  Coal  and 
Coke  Company,  and  formed  the  Sloss  Iron  and  Steel  Com- 
pany. This  vigorous  corporation  has  a  paid-in  capital  of 
$3,700,000,  and  employs  3,500  men,  with  large  mines,  800 
coke-ovens,  and  four  furnaces,  adequate  to  the  production  of 
450  tons  of  pig-iron  daily.  Here  the  world's  problem  of 
cheap  iron  is  being  solved,  where  the  ore  of  Red  Mountain, 
that  mineral  marvel  of  America,  is  manufactured  into  the 
best  quality  of  metal,  capable,  with  proper  treatment,  of  suc- 
cessful competition  with  the  finest  Russian  and  Norway  iron. 
At  Birmingham,  too,  is  the  Morris  Block,  erected  and 
owned  by  Josiah  Morris,  the  millionaire  banker  of  Montgom- 
BIRMINGHAM  :  JOSIAH  MORRIS  BLOCK.  erv>  W}1O  was  one  of  the  earliest  investors  in  the  present  city, 
and  by  whose  aid  the  enterprise  was  carried  through  some  of  its  earlier  trials.  This  is  one 
of  the  finest  and  costliest  office  buildings  in  the  South,  an  architectural  credit  to  the  city,  and 
thoroughly  fire-proof.  It  is 
occupied  by  banks  and  for  of- 
fices of  many  kinds.  Its  up- 
per floors  have  been  utilized 
as  the  Morris  Hotel,  on  the 
European  plan,  the  rooms  be- 
ing the  choicest  in  the  city. 

Anniston,  one  of  the  love- 
liest cities  of  the  South,  and 
also  one  of  the  most  remark- 
able centres  of  the  iron  indus- 
try in  the  country,  rests  on  a 
healthy  and  pleasant  plateau 
of  northeastern  Alabama,  900  feet  above  the  sea,  amid  the  picturesque  wooded  spurs  of  the 
Blue  Ridge.  Here  the  Georgia  Pacific  and  the  East-Tennessee,  Virginia  &  Georgia  Railroads 
intersect ;  and  the  Alabama  Mineral  Railroad  runs  northwest  to  the  Queen  &  Crescent  sys- 
tem, at  Attalla,  and  southwest  to  the  Georgia  Central  system,  at  Sylacauga.  Anniston  is 
built  upon  and  surrounded  by  enormous  beds  of  brown  hematite  ore,  easily  accessible  and 
cheaply  mined,  low  in  silica  and  phosphorus,  and  containing  above  50  per  cent,  of  metallic 
iron.  The  first-class  coking  coals  of  the  Coosa  and  Cahaba  mines  are  respectively  within 
25  and  45  miles ;  and  the  Anniston  valley  abounds  in  limestone  for  fluxing.  Seven  char- 
coal furnaces  make  yearly  50,000  tons  of  tough  car- 
wheel  iron;  and  two  coke  furnaces  make  100,000 
tons  of  pig-iron.  On  this  site  a  furnace  was  built 
and  destroyed  during  the  Civil  War.  Samuel  No- 
ble, a  practical  English  iron-worker,  then  running  a 
foundry  at  Rome,  Georgia,  visited  the  ruins  about 
the  year  1870,  and  becoming  impressed  with  the 
enormous  deposits  of  excellent  brown  iron  ore, 
bought  up  large  areas,  upon  which  the  Woodstock 
Iron  Company  started  its  first  furnace  in  1873,  and 
ANNISTON:  NOBLE  INSTITUTE  FOR  BOYS.  a  second  in  1879.  Associated  with  Mr.  Noble  in 


ANNISTON  :  THE  ANNISTON   INN. 


THE   STATE   OF  ALABAMA. 


37 


ANNISTON  :    GRACE    CHURCH. 


4OBLE    INSTITUTE    FOR    GIRLS  :    THE   SCHOOL   AND    DORMITORY. 


the  foundation  of  the  city  were  Gen.  Daniel  Tyler  and  Alfred  L.  Tyler  ;  and  the  new  settle- 
ment received  the  name  of  Annie's  Town  (contracted  to  Anniston),  from  the  Christian  name 
of  Mrs.  Alfred  L.  Tyler.  Until  1883  the  great  domains  of  the  Woodstock  Company  were 
withheld  from  public  sale,  and  during  that  period  the  corporation  built  streets  and  parks 

and  laid  out 
a  model  city, 
at  great  cost. 
Then  they 
began  to  sell 
building 
lots,  and  the 
city  flashed 
into  life,  with 
a  host  of 

manufacturing  industries,  making  iron,  steel,  stoves,  horse-shoes,  furniture,  brick,  ice,  and  many 
other  articles,  mainly  dependent  on  the  molten  ore  of  the  furnaces.  In  1887  tne  ^an(i  interest 
of  the  Woodstock  Company,  was  sold  to  the  Anniston  City  Land  Company,  which  now  owns 
nearly  $5,000,000  worth  of  property,  including  2,700  acres  in  the  city,  the  Inn,  and  many 
dwellings.  The  country  about  Anniston  is  very  fertile,  especially  along  the  Choccolocco  and 
Alexandria  Valleys,  and  among  its  other  products  the  city  receives  60,000  bales  of  cotton 
yearly.  Under  these  favorable  circumstances,  Anniston  has  constructed  a  capital  cotton  com- 
press, and  one  of  the  largest  cotton-mills  in  the  South.  The  Anniston  Inn  is  a  handsome 
Queen- Anne  building,  with  broad  verandas  and  a  richly  decorated  interior,  standing  on  an  emi- 
nence near  the  centre  of  the  city,  and  commanding  fine  views  of  the  mountains.  Anniston 
has  25  churches,  the  chief  of  which  is  the  great  stone  and  marble  edifice  of  St.  Michael's 
and  All  Angels,  crowning  a  beautiful  hill  that  overlooks  the  city  and  its  mountain-guards. 
This  noble  ecclesiastical  structure  was  built  in  1889-90,  by  John  W.  Noble,  as  a  memorial  of 
his  father,  James  Noble,  and  his  brother,  Samuel  E.  Noble,  one  of  the  founders  of  the  city. 
Noble  Institute  for  Boys  and  Noble  Institute  for  Girls  were  established  by  Samuel  E.  Noble, 
in  recognition  of  the  fact  that  in  this  beautiful  new  city  of  mountains  the  best  educational 
facilities  should  be  made  ready  for  the  young  people.  The  two  institutes  are  of  a  high 
grade,  with  first-class  faculties,  abundant  laboratory  and  other  facilities,  and  carefully 
planned  courses  in  the  classics,  languages,  science,  art  and  music.  The  buildings  are  hand- 
some and  elaborate  architectural  works,  in  pressed  b.rick  and  stone,  and  provided  with  all 
modern  improvements  and  conveniences. 

The  interesting  development  of  the  new  Alabama  cities  marks  the  dawn  of  a  new  era 
in  one  of  the  most  conservative  of  the  Southern  States.  The  fact  that  the  pig-iron  product 
of  the  United  States  now  exceeds  that  of  Great  Britain,  and  reaches  nearly  10,000,000 
tons  a  year,  marks  one  of  the  most  notable  of  modern  industrial  revolutions.  In  1880, 
Alabama  was  the  tenth  State  in  respect  to  the  production  of  iron,  but  now  she  occupies 
the  third  place,  and  yields  one 
tenth  of  the  American  output,  and 
one  half  of  the  pig-iron  made  in 
the  South. 

As  a  producer  of  iron  ore,  Ala- 
bama now  stands  second  only  to 
Michigan,  having  passed  Pennsyl- 
vania and  New  York,  and  yielding 
1,570,000  tons  yearly.  This  is  the 
cheapest  iron  in  the  world,  owing 
to  the  large  open  workings  and  the  easy  facilities  for  mining,  which  also  enable  the  local 
mining  companies  to  get  out  the  ore  for  69  cents  a  ton  for  labor,  which  is  a  lower  rate  than 


DECATUR  :     THE    MANUFACTURING    QUARTER. 


TUSKALOOSA  I      UNIVERSITY    OF    ALABAMA. 


38  KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 

obtains  anywhere  else  in  the  United  States,  the  average  American  expenditures  for  wages 
per  long  ton  being  $1.06.  The  capital  invested  here  in  iron-ore  mining  is  above  $5,000,- 
ooo,  the  entire  American  investment  in  this  line  being  $110,000,000. 

The  most  valuable  ally  of  the  iron  manufacture  here  is  the  coal-mining  industry,  which 
began  in  a  small  way  in  1853,  and  reached  by  1876  a  yearly  output  of  100,000  tons,  mainly 
for  local  use.  This  product  has  now  increased  to  nearly  4,000,000  tons  ;  and  7,000  men 
are  employed  in  its  manipulation.  The  three  great  coal-fields  cover  8,660  square  miles, 
lying  along  the  valleys  of  the  Warrior,  Coosa  and  Cahaba  Rivers,  and  bearing  their  names. 
The  product  includes  all  the  bituminous  varieties,  such  as  gas,  coking,  block,  splint  and 
cannel,  and  provides  the  growing  local  industries  with  inexhaustible  supplies  of  fuel  for 
steam  and  furnace  uses,  and  for  domestic  purposes.  Jefferson  County  (of  which  Birming- 
ham is  the  capital)  produces  more  than  two  thirds  of  the  Alabama  coal  ;  and  Bibb  and 
Walker  Counties  come  next,  each  with  about  500,000  tons  a  year. 

The  development  of  the  wonder- 
ful mineral  resources  of  the  State 
has  been  aided  by  the  Geological 
Survey,  which  has  been  in  progress 
since  1873,  under  the  direction  of 
the  State  Geologist,  Dr.  Eugene  A. 
Smith,  of  the  University  of  Ala- 
bama. Reports  have  been  pub- 
lished almost  yearly,  and  the  survey 
has  prepared  an  elaborate  museum 
of  minerals  for  the  University.  This  is  one  of  the  benefits  accruing  to  the  State  from  its 
great  educational  institution,  whose  teachings  are  made  general  and  popular  by  the  appoint- 
ment of  three  free  students  from  each  county.  Many  of  the  leading  men  of  Alabama 
were  educated  at  the  University,  which  is  charmingly  located  in  the  cultivated  city  of  Tus- 
kaloosa,  whose  broad  streets,  shaded  by  the  native  water-oaks,  run  down  to  the  Warrior 
River,  at  the  head  of  steamboat  navigation,  in  a  rich  cotton  district.  Steamboats  run  regu- 
larly between  the  university  city  and  Mobile,  the  great  sea-port  of  Alabama. 

The  intelligent  development  of  the  material  wealth  of  the 
hills  has  caused  the  active  and  growing  city  of  Bessemer  to  grow 
up  on  the  lone  fields  of  an  Alleghany  glen.  A  solitary  log-hut 
stood  here  at  the  middle  period  of  President  Cleveland's  admin- 
istration, where  now  the  spires  and  factory-chimneys  of  an  indus- 
trial metropolis  are  outlined  against  the  deep  green  of  the 
mountains. 

Bessemer  was  founded  in  1887,  and  within  three  years  arose 
to  the  position  of  an  important  manufacturing  city  and  railway 
centre,  with  seven  furnaces  in  full  blast,  large  rolling  mills  and 
cast-iron  pipe- works  (capacity  350  tons  daily),  fire-brick  works,  and  many  smaller  industries, 
besides  handsome  public  buildings  and  business  blocks,  eight  churches,  and  two  news- 
papers. The  reason  for  this  extraordinary  de- 
velopment is  found  in  the  existence  here  of  a  long 
mountain-range  of  iron,  occurring  in  veins  from 
five  to  20  feet  thick,  and  containing  billions  of  tons 
of  ore,  under  conditions  of  surprising  economy 
for  development.  The  ore  can  be  mined  and 
delivered  at  the  furnaces  for  55  cents  a  ton. 
Within  25  miles  there  are  600,000  acres  of  coal- 
fields, estimated  to  contain  30  billion  tons,  and 
yielding  62^  per  cent,  in  coke.  The  great  mines 


BESSEMER  :    OFFICE  OF   THE  BESSE- 
MER LAND  AND  IMPROVEMENT  CO. 


;j 


BESSEMER  :    DE  BARDELEBEN  COAL 


THE  STATE   OF  ALABAMA. 


39 


BESSEMER  :      THE    CHARLESTON    BLOCK. 


on  this  belt  deliver  coal  in  Bessemer  at  80  cents  a  ton.  The  purest  Trenton  limestone 
abounds  in  Jones  Valley,  and  is  delivered  in  the  city  at  60  cents  a  ton.  With  these  notable 
advantages,  iron  is  manufactured  here  at  a  minimum  of  cost,  and  competes  with  the  cheap 
iron  of  England.  The  city  stands  600  feet  above  the  sea,  in 
the  beautiful  amphitheatre  of  Jones  Valley,  between  Red 
Mountain  and  Rock  Mountain,  13  miles  below  Birming- 
ham. It  gathers  nine  railways  into  its  arms,  and  confidently 
looks  for  a  great  future  development  in 
general  manufacturing  and  as  a  trade-cen- 
tre. The  founder  and  chief  owner  of  this 
iron  city  of  North  Alabama  is  the  Bes- 
semer Land  and  Improvement  Company, 
which  is  conducted  with  an  enterprise  and 
sagacity  that  make  it  certain  that  in  the 
course  of  a  few  years  Bessemer  will  fairly 
rival  all  of  its  older  neighbors. 

The  De  Bardeleben  Coal  and  Iron  Company,  Consolidated,  is  the  great  mainspring  of  the 
life  of  Bessemer,  and  owns  seven  new  and  fully  equipped  blast-furnaces,  with  a  daily  capac- 
ity of  800  tons  ;  seven  iron-mines,  yielding  4,000  tons  daily ;  seven  coal-mines,  with  a 

daily  capacity  of  5,000  tons;  900  coke  ovens;  25 
miles  of  standard-gauge  railway ;  immense  lime- 
stone quarries  ;  and  numerous  other  valuable  prop- 
erties. In  1889  the  De  Bardeleben  Company  con- 
solidated with  the  Bessemer  Iron  and  Steel  Company 
and  other  corporations  owning  vast  areas  of  coal 
and  iron  lands,  and  formed  a  new  company,  with 
Sf  io,oocr,ooo  capital,  and  employing  2,000  men. 
The  mineral  lands  cover  140,000  acres,  and  the 
yearly  output  of  the  furnaces  is  250,000  tons  of  pig- 
iron,  worth  $4,000,000. 

Sheffield  is  another  of  the  interesting  new  cities  of 
northwestern  Alabama,  with  its  fortunes  securely  based  on  the  manufacture  of  iron.  It  was 
founded  in  1885,  on  a  bold  bluff  midway  between  Tuscumbia  and  Florence,  and  fronting  on 
the  broad  and  deep  Tennessee  River.  Unlimited  supplies  of  fine  brown  iron-ore  and  the  best 
of  coking  coal  are  available  within  20  miles,  and  have  resulted  in  the  erection  here  of 
five  blast-furnaces,  with  a  capacity  of  700  tons  of  pig-iron  daily.  The  ores  are  of  remark- 
able excellence,  requiring  only  a  pound  of  coke  to  make  a  pound  of  metal,  and  producing 
but  little  slag.  A  great  advantage  enjoyed  by  this  "Iron  City  on  the  Tennessee  River"  is 
in  the  low  price  of  freights  by  water,  amounting  to  but  $i  a  ton  to  St.  Louis.  Many  im- 
portant ports  on  the  Tennessee,  Ohio  and  Mississippi  are  reached  by  steamboats  from  this 
city ;  and  railways  run  to  Birmingham  and  other  points.  The  Sheffield  Land,  Iron  and 
Coal  Company  enjoys  the  honor  of  having  founded  this  hive  of  industry  and  commerce, 
with  its  busy  factories  and  fine  public  buildings,  where  five  years  ago  stretched  the  lonely 

fields  of  a  rural  plantation. 

The  magnificent  inland  water-way  of  the  Ten- 
nessee River,  navigable  now  from  North  Carolina 
to  the  Ohio,  is  becoming  a  notable  highway  for 
iron  and  coal,  cotton  and  grain,  outward  bound 
from  North  Alabama,  and  delivered  at  many 
cities  of  the  West  and  Northwest.  Even  such 
dignified  and  ancient  communities  as  Florence  are 
being  forced,  by  the  demands  the  New  South 


BESSEMER  :     DE  BARDELEBEN  COAL  AND  IRON  CO. 


SHEFFIELD  :    THE   SHEFFIELD   HOTEL. 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 


FLORENCE  :    SYNODICAL    COLLEGE. 


makes  upon  them,  on  account  of  their  unrivalled 
commercial  strategic  value,  to  exchange  their 
placid  seclusion  for  a  new  civic  life,  full  of  energy 
and  enterprise. 

Florence,  a  pleasant  old  Alabama  college-town, 
on  a  rolling  plateau  in  the  cotton  region  of  the 
north,  somehow  was  drawn  into  the  resistless 
whirl  of  modern  activity  in  1887,  and  within  two 
years  the  population  increased  five-fold.  It  has 
the  same  remarkable  combination  of  iron,  coal 
and  lime  that  has  enriched  other  localities  in  the  State,  and  in  addition  it  enjoys  admirable 
river  commerce,  by  which  the  products  of  its  mills  can  be  delivered  in  the  North  at  trifling 
charges  for  freight.  Iron  is  freighted  by  steamer 
to  St.  Louis  for  $i  a  ton.  The  advantages  of  the 
site  have  drawn  to  this  beautiful  river-city  a  num- 
ber of  large  manufacturing  companies,  and  many 
millions  of  Northern  capital,  covering  widely  diver- 
sified interests ;  and  it  is  thought  that  Florence  will 
become  one  of  the  half-dozen  chief  cities  of  the 
South.  The  chief  development  corporation  of  this 
locality  has  been  the  Florence  Land,  Mining  and 
Manufacturing  Company,  which  started  its  develop- 
ment in  1887,  and  has  continued  it.  SHEFFIELD  LAND,  IRON  AND  COAL  COMPANY. 

Many  other  manufacturing  towns  have  been  started  in  Alabama.     Some  of  them  will  suc- 
ceed, in  greater  or  less  measure,  and  others  will  remain  names  and  nothing  more.    Thus  the 

old-time  Chickasaw,  at  the  foot  of  Colbert  Shoals, 
in  the  far  northwest,  bloomed  out  in  1890  as  the 
coming  city  of  Riverton,  with  iron-furnaces  to  be, 
and  basic  steel  plants,  and  elevators.  So  also 
Pell  City  seeks  to  rise,  where  several  railways  in- 
tersect, in  the  rich  Coosa  Valley. 

Fort  Payne  was  founded  in  1889,  by  New- 
Englanders,  who  bought  32,000  acres  of  land 
here,  with  the  coal-seams  of  Lookout  Mountain 
on  one  side,  and  the  iron  ores  of  Red  Mountain 
on  the  other,  and  beds  of  limestone  between. 
Bluffton  stands  high  on  the  Eastern-Alabama 
foot-hills,  with  cliffs  of  hematite  iron  ore  all  about  it,  furnishing  material  for  several  active 
furnaces.  Decatur,  on  the  broad  and  navigable  Tennessee,  and  in  the  cereal  belt,  was  a  war- 
shattered  old  village  of  1,500  people  early  in 
1887,  when  New  Decatur  arose,  to  be  a  city  of 
8,000  people.  Selma,  on  the  Alabama,  is  an 
important  cotton-market,  manufacturing  town, 
and  railway  centre.  Huntsville,  famous  for  its 
great  flowing  spring,  is  the  capital  of  the  rich- 
est of  the  Tennessee- Valley  counties,  with  profit- 
able manufactures  and  a  beautiful  surrounding 
country.  Eufaula  stands  perched  on  a  bold 
bluff  over  the  Chattahoochee.  Tuskaloosa  is  a 
city  of  5,000  people,  on  the  Warrior  River,  be- 
tween the  rich  corn  and  cotton  fields  of  the  val- 
ley and  the  famous  Warrior  coal-fields.  Talla-  SHEFFIELD  LAND,  IRON  AND  COAL  co.  <s  OFFICE. 


IRON    MINES  :    DE    BARDELEBEN    COAL    &    IRON    CO. 


THE  STATE   OF  ALABAMA. 


THE  TENNESSEE    RIVER    AT    SHEFFIELD. 


dega,  Stevenson,  Attalla,  Gadsden  and  other  new 
municipalities,  are  fast  coming  into  public  view. 

Railroads  were  initiated  here  by  the  Tuscum- 
bia,  Courtland  &  Decatur  line  (44  miles)  in  1831-4. 
The  State  now  contains  over  3,000  miles  of  tracks, 
the  chief  of  which  are  the  Alabama  Great  South- 
ern, from  Chattanooga  to  Meridian,  with  245  miles 
in  Alabama ;  the  South  &  North,  from  Montgom- 
ery to  Decatur,  189  miles;  the  Mobile  &  Mont- 
gomery, 178  miles;  the  Selma  Division  of  the 
East-Tennessee,  Virginia  &  Georgia  line,  with  172 
miles  in  Alabama ;  the  Meridian  and  the  Mobile  and  Birmingham  Divisions ;  the  Georgia 
Pacific,  241  miles;  the  Memphis  and  Charleston,  151  ;  the  Alabama  Midland,  from  Mont- 
gomery to  Bainbridge,  Ga. ;  the  Savannah  &  Western,  156;  the  Alabama  Mineral,  127;  and 
the  Kansas  City,  Memphis  &  Birmingham,  118.  The  other  roads,  25  in  number,  have  each 
less  than  100  miles  of  track.  The  railroads  include  those  from  Mobile  northeast  to  Mont- 
gomery and  to  Atlanta,  from  Mobile  north  to  Selma  and  Birmingham,  from  Mobile  north- 
west  to  Meridian,  Miss,  (and  Cairo  and  St.  Louis) ;  from  Meridian  east  to  Selma  and 
Montgomery,  from  Montgomery  to  Troy,  Columbus  and  Opelika  (a  loop  line)  ;  from  Selma 
across  the  Coosa  Valley  to  Talladega  and  Rome ;  from  Mobile  east  to  Pensacola  and  west 
to  New  Orleans  ;  (  and  along  the  Tennessee  Valley.  The  magnificent  systems  of  the 

East-Tennessee,  Virginia  &  Georgia  Railway  and  other 
lines  afford  capital  facilities  for  passengers  and  freight 
from  Central  Alabama  northeastward  to  Chattanooga 
and  the  North,  eastward  to  the  first-class  seaport  of 
Brunswick  (Ga. ),  and  southwestward  to  Mobile  and  the 
Gulf  ports.  The  East-Tennessee,  Virginia  &  Georgia 
connects  also  with  the  Atlantic  Coast  line  at  Jesup.  The 
Mobile  &  Ohio  Railroad  traverses  the  rich  farming  ter- 
ritory of  the  Alabama  Land  &  Development  Company, 
in  the  southwestern  counties. 
Navigation  by  canoes  was  superseded  by  flat-boats,  taking  three  months  from  Mobile  to 
Montgomery;  and  in  1818  the  St. -Stephens  Steamboat  Company  received  incorporation,  fol- 
lowed by  the  Steamboat  Company  of  Alabama.  The  early  boats  took  15  days  to  go  from 
Mobile  to  Montgomery.  There  are  now  43  steamboats  (21  for  passengers)  on  the  rivers, 
with  a  tonnage  of  7,008,  and  a  value  of  $250,000.  From  the  high  bluffs  along  the  rivers, 
cotton  is  sent  down  to  the  boats  on  slides,  and  passengers  use  long  stairways.  Alabama  also 
has  73  sailing-vessels,  of  8,000  tons.  Mobile  is  the  only  port  in  the  State,  and  her  commerce 
has  declined  seriously,  on  account  of  railway  competition  and  discrimination  —  New  Orleans 
and  the  Atlantic  ports  taking  her  cotton  exportations,  and  Pensacola  shipping  the  lumber. 
Mobile's  exports  were  $22,500,000  in  1870.  In  1878,  they  had  fallen  to  $9,000,000. 

Manufactures  are  mainly  in  the  northern  counties,  where  the  recent  development  of 
vast  coal  and  iron  deposits  has  revolutionized  the  country, 
causing  the  rise  of  new  manufacturing  cities,  like  Birming- 
ham and  Anniston,  Florence  and  Sheffield,  and  followed  by 
the  building  of  many  furnaces  and  rolling-mills.  In  1880 
there  were  2,000  factories,  with  $10,000,000  capital,  em- 
ploying 10,000  operatives,  and  with  an  annual  product  of 
$14,000,000.  The  chief  items  were  $4,315,000^1  flour  and 
grist-mill  products,  $2, 650,000  in  sawed  lumber,  $1,452,000 

in  iron  and  steel,  and  $1,352,  ooo  in  cotton  goods.    The  man- 

ufacturing  interests  of  Alabama  have  increased  prodigiously  FLORENCE  :  NORMAL  SCHOOL. 


TUSCUMBIA  :     COUNTY    COURT-HOUSE. 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


MONTGOMERY  :    HIGH    SCHOOL. 


within  the  past  decade,  especially  in  iron  and  steel  and 
the  connected  industries.  The  largest  cotton-mills  are 
at  Tallassee,  35  miles  from  Montgomery,  at  the  great 
falls  of  the  Tallapoosa,  where  500  operatives  are  kept 
at  work,  in  commodious  stone  factories.  The  works 
were  started  in  1845,  an(^  tne  present  mill  dates  from 
1854,  having  been  built  at  a  cost  of  $40x3,000.  During 
the  Secession  War,  fire-arms  were  made  here,  but  now 
the  products  are  sheetings,  shirtings,  duck,  and  cotton 
rope  and  yarn. 

The  Finances  of  Alabama  show  an  estimated  valuation  of  $378,000,000,  with  a  State 
bonded  debt  of  $9,240,000  (besides  $250,000  unfunded),  and  county  and  municipal  debts 
of  about  $5,000,000.  The  yearly  State,  county,  and  municipal  taxes  are  above  $2,000,000 
yearly.  The  first  bank  was  founded  at  Huntsville  in  1816.  There  are 
now  21  National  banks,  with  about  $3,500,000  capital;  and  six  savings- 
banks,  with  deposits  of  $1,300,000.  There  are  also  seven  State  banks, 
with  a  capital  of  $700,000. 

The  banking-house  of  Josiah  Morris  &  Co.  is  the  pre-eminent  private 
financial  institution  in  Alabama,  and  exercises  an  important  and  progres- 
sive influence  in  Montgomery,  the  capital  of  the  State,  as  well  as  in  the 
great  mineral  regions  of  Central  and  Northern  Alabama.  Josiah  Morris 
originated  on  the  Eastern  Shore  of  Maryland,  in  1818,  and,  after  a  number 
of  years  of  active  business  in  Georgia  and  Louisiana,  in  1851  he  settled  at 
Montgomery,  where  his  close  attention  to  business  and  his  keen  insight 
have  been  the  corner-stones  of  a  wonderfully  successful  career.  The  firm 
has  helped  the  great  railroad  enterprises  of  this  section  with  counsel  and 
credit  ;  and  especially  has  contributed  largely  to  the  building  of  the  South 
and  North  line,  and  the  consequent  development  of  Birmingham.  The 
large  and  increasing  business  of  this  house  has  compelled  the  erection  of 
a  new  banking  building,  which  is  an  ornament  to  the  capital  of  Alabama.  Mr.  Morris's  asso- 
ciate is  F.  M.  Billing.  Josiah  Morris  &  Co.  carry  on  a  general  banking  business. 

The  First  National  Bank  of  Birmingham,  although  established  within  a  very  few  years, 
now  occupies  a  proud  position  among  the  financial  institutions  of  the  South,  and  has  the 
largest  deposits  and  does  the  largest  business  of  any  bank  in  the  State  of  Alabama.  With 
a  paid-in  capital  of  $250,000,  this  corporation  already  has  a  surplus  exceeding  $200,000; 
and  its  first-class  and  secure  lines  of  business  assure  the  continuous  increase  of  this 
practical  reserve  fund.  The  efficient  aid  of  such  a  powerful  financial  institution  as  this 
has  been  wisely  exerted  to  advance  the  prosperity  of  Birmingham  in  many  ways,  and  to 
build  up  and  sustain  the  great  industries  which  have  risen  here.  At  once  conservative 

and  enterprising,  the  First  National  has  continually 
developed  its  opportunities  and  resources,  with  an 
unwavering  faith  in  the  iron  wealth  of  the  Alabama 
hills  as  the  true  foundation  for  a  powerful  monetary 
institution  ;  and  the  result  has  amply  justified  the  sa- 
gacity of  the  undertaking.  Its  building  was  the  first 

a:    a  lUfiH^^^     three-story  brick  structure  in  Birmingham,  erected  for 

'  -—"'  --  this  bank  in  1  872,  by  Charles  Linn,  in  an  old  corn-field, 

and  then  known  all  over  Alabama  as  "Linn's  Folly.  " 
The  First  National  was  organized  in  1884,  by  the  con- 
solidation of  the  National  Bank  of  Birmingham  and 
the  City  Bank.  Then  there  were  two  banks  in  the  city, 

BIRMINGHAM  :    FIRST   NATIONAL   BANK.  where  there  are  nOW  twelve. 


MONTGOMERY : 
MORRIS  &  CO.' 


HISTORY. 

Sailing  eastward  from 
Kamchatka,  in  1741,  the 
Russian  navigators,  Chi- 
rikoff  and  Bering,  were 
the  first  Europeans  to 
see  the  Alaskan  shores, 
reaching  the  lone  north 
land  at  different  points. 
These  intrepid  and  ill- 
fated  explorers  were  fol- 
lowed by  the  Siberian  fur-hunters,  advancing  along  the 
Aleutian  group,  and  enslaving  the  natives,  nine-tenths  of 
whom  disappeared  between  1760  and  1818.  In  1799 
the  Emperor  Paul,  of  Russia,  granted  a  twenty  years' 
charter  to  the  Russian-American  Company,  whose  iron- 
willed  manager,  Baranoff,  conquered  the  country  as  far  as 
Sitka  (which  was  founded  in  1801);  established  a  colony 
in  California ;  and  opened  trade  with  China,  Honolulu 
and  the  Spanish  colonies.  In  1818  Russia  interposed 
between  the  natives  and  the  companies,  and  thousands 
of  Aleuts  and  others  were  Christianized,  largely  by  the 
labors  of  Innocentius  Veniaminoff,  afterwards  Primate  of 
the  Greek  Church. 

Under  the  strong  influence  of  Seward  and  Sumner,  and 
in  the  face  of  keen  ridicule  and  opposition,  the  U.-S.  Gov- 
ernment bought  Alaska  (a  profitless  land  for  Russia),  in 
1867,  for  $7,200,000  in  gold. 
American  soldiers  then  garri- 
soned the  old  Russian  forts ; 
but  a  few  years  later  they 
were  withdrawn,  and  the  only 
armed  defenders  now  are  a 
small  war-vessel  and  a  com- 
pany of  marines,  who  assist  the 


STATISTICS. 

Settled  at  Kadiak,  in  ...  1784 

Founded  by Russians 

Annexed  to  the  United  States,  1867 
Population  in  1880,  .  ...  33,426 
Population  in  1800, 

Whites,  .     .          , 

Chinese, 


31,795 
4,303 
2,287 


Mixed  (Russian  and  Native),  1,809 
Indians,      ...         ...  23,274 

Eskimos,      .     .         ...  12,787 

Thlinkets,    .     .          .     :     .    4,737 
Athabaskans,  .     .     .     3,439 

Aleuts, 968 

Tsimpseans,    .         ...       953 

Hydas,     ...         ...       391 

I  inhabitant  to  17  square  miles. 
Voting  Population,     ....  o 

Vote  for  Harrison  (1888).      .  o 

Vote  for  Cleveland  (1888),    .  o 

Net  Public  Debts,      ....  o 

Real  Property,         )  (estimated), 
Personal  Property,  )   .     .      $5,000,000 

Banks, o 

Area  (square  miles),  .  .  .  531,000 
U.  S.  Representatives,  ...  o 

Militia  (Disciplined),      .         .  o 

Counties, o 

Cities, o 

Towns  and  Villages,  ....       320 

Post-offices, 17 

Railroads  (miles) o 

Vessels, o 

Tonnage, o 

Farm  Land  (in  acres)      ...  o 

Colleges     and     Professional 

Schools, o 

Government  Schools,      ...         18 

Mission  Schools 32 

School  Children 1,300 

Newspapers, 3 

Latitude 54°  40'  to  71°  23' 

Longitude,  181°  W.  to  173°  13'  E. 
Temperature,  .  .  — °  70°  to  120° 
Mean  Temperature,  Sitka,  .  43° 

CHIEF   PLACES  AND   POPULATIONS 
IN  1890. 

Juneau, 1,253 

Sitka, 1,190 

Karluk, 1,123 

Metlakahtla, 823 

Kadiak  (St.  Paul) 495 

Kingaghee, 488 

Port  Clarence, 485 

Hoonah 438 

Alitak, 420 

Afognak, 409 


civil  government  in  preserving  the  public  peace  and  guarding 
the  public  property.  For  many  years  this  great  hyperborean 
province  was  known  as  Russian  America.  The  name  Alaska 


44 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE   UNITED   STATES. 


6ITKA  I     CUSTOM    HOUSE  AND    BARRACKS. 


is  from  the  Aleutian  word  Alakshak,   meaning   "The    Continent"  or   "Large  Country," 
modified  by  the  Russians  into  Aliaska,  and  given  to  the  great  peninsula  south  of  Bering 
Sea.     When  the  United  States  bought  the  country,  the  various  names  of  Polario,  Ameri- 
can Siberia,  Zero  Islands  and  Walrussia  were 
suggested  for  it ;  but  Charles  Sumner  secured 
the  adoption  of  the  present  title. 

The  popular  name  for  the  District  is  UNCLE 
SAM'S  ICE  Box ;  and  it  has  also  been 
called  THE  LAND  OF  THE  MIDNIGHT 
SUN,  and  THE  LAND  OF  SUNDOWN 
SEAS.  The  arms  of  Alaska  show  men 
driving  seals,  vessels  among  the  islands, 


and  lofty  mountains,  with  brilliant  rays 
above  them. 

The  Governors  of   Alaska  have  been:   John  H.  Kinkead,  1884-5;    A.  P.  Swineford, 
1885-8;  and  Lyman  E.  Knapp,  1888-93. 

The  area  of  Alaska  is  of  imperial  dimensions.  North  and  south  it  extends  between 
Dixon  Entrance  and  Point  Barrow  for 
1,200  miles,  which  equals  the  distance 
from  Maine  to  Florida ;  and  its  western 
extension  of  2,100  miles,  between  Port- 
land Canal  and  Attu,  approximates  the 
distance  from  Virginia  to  California.  The 
District  equals  in  area  one-sixth  of  the 
United  States,  or  one-seventh  of  Europe. 
The  lower  part,  from  Dixon  Entrance  to 
Mt.  St.  Elias,  consists  of  a  strip  of  main- 
land about  thirty  miles  wide  and  five  hun- 
dred miles  long,  made  up  chiefly  of  rough 
and  broken  country,  composed  of  numer- 
ous irregular  ranges  of  steep,  lofty  and 

often  snowy  mountains,  among  whose  curving  crests  runs  the  international  boundary. 
This  huge  Cordilleran  wall  looks  westward  upon  a  maze  of  deep  straits  and  sounds, 
including  the  magnificent  Clarence  Strait,  a  hundred  miles  long  and  four  miles  wide, 
and  as  straight  as  a  canal.  Amid  this  labyrinth  of  sea-waters  the  Alexander  Archi- 
pelago follows  the  shore-line  for  300  miles,  with  the  Prince-of- Wales,  Admiralty, 
Baranoff  and  other  islands,  large  enough  for  states,  and  thousands  of  minor  islands. 
The  climate  of  southern  Alaska  is  moderated  by  the  influence  of  the  ocean,  and  does 
not  have  the  formidable  extremes  of  heat  and  cold  that  persecute  New  England.  The 
mean  temperature  of  Sitka  is  54.2°  in  summer,  and  31.9°  in  winter.  It 
is  too  humid  to  allow  of  curing  hay,  or  many  other  agricultural  industries, 
but  turnips,  cabbages,  potatoes,  and  other  vegetables  are  grown,  and  a 
few  cattle  are  kept.  The  temperature  resembles  that  of  Northern  Scot- 
land and  parts  of  Norway  ;  and  the  winters 
are  milder  than  those  of  New  York.  The 
rainfall  is  from  80  to  136  inches  in  a  year. 

In  the  great  forests  of  southeastern  Alaska, 
the  prevailing  tree  is  the  Sitka  spruce,  re- 
sembling the  silver  fir  of  California,  some- 
times reaching  a  height  of  250  feet,  and  cover- 
ing many  thousands  of  square  miles  of  the  Alexander  Archipelago.  It  ascends  the  sides  of 
the  steepest  mountains  for  over  1,000  feet.  The  yellow  cedar  is  a  hard  and  durable  wood, 


GRANV1LLE   CHANNEL.       EN    ROUTE   TO   ALASKA. 


INDIAN    VILLAGE,    WITH    TOTEM    POLES. 


THE  DISTRICT  OF  ALASKA. 


45 


pleasantly  perfumed,  and  admitting  of  a  high  polish.  There  are  vast  forests  of  spruce  and 
hemlock,  but  only  a  few  mills  have  been  erected,  on  account  of  the  uncertain  tenure  of 
land.  Among  the  inhabitants  of  these  woods  are  black,  brown  and  cinnamon  bears,  deer 
and  lynxes,  minks  and  martens,  white  and  sil- 
ver-gray foxes,  and  millions  of  undisturbed 
birds. 

The  great  northward  and  westward  curve  of 
the  coast  from  Dixon  Entrance  covers  a  length 
of  550  miles,  to  Prince- William  Sound,  whence 
the  shore-line  trends  south  and  west,  725  miles, 
to  the  tip  of  Aliaska,  and  thence  zigzags  north 
and  east  to  Bering  Strait  and  the  Arctic 
Ocean.  The  Kadiak  group,  600  miles  west  of 
the  Alexander  Archipelago,  covers  nearly  6,000  UNALASHKA. 

square  miles,  and  has  several  interesting  vil- 
lages of  the  descendants  of  Russian  fathers  and  Alaskan  mothers,  and  the  homes  of 
nearly  500  Kaniag  natives,  a  fast-fading  race.  Two  hundred  miles  farther  westward,  in 
the  stormy  and  misty  ocean,  rise  the  Shumagin  Islands,  inhabited  by  Californian  cod- 
fishermen  and  Alaskan  sea-otter  hunters.  The  Aleutian  Archipelago  runs  from  near  the 
Shumagin  group  for  1,650  miles,  in  the  direction  of  Asia,  a  series  of  treeless,  grassy  and 

generally  mountainous  islands,  with 
numerous  volcanic  peaks,  rising  be- 
tween the  Pacific  Ocean  and  Bering 
Sea.  This  region  is  the  home  of 
tremendous  gales  and  almost  per- 
petual sea-mists,  and  has  a  mild 
and  humid  climate,  averaging  50°  in 
summer  and  30°  in  winter.  Sum- 
mer lasts  from  April  to  October, 
and  a  more  rainy  than  snowy  winter  the  rest  of  the  year.  At  Unalashka  and  Kadiak  the 
thermometer  rarely  reaches  as  low  as  zero,  and  in  summer  it  mounts  to  75°-  Fewer  than 
half  the  days  are  entirely  cloudy.  A  dense  and  luxuriant  growth  of  grass  rustles  in  the 
valleys,  and  may  give  rise  to  sheep-raising  industries  in  the  future  ;  and  innumerable  huckle- 
berries grow  on  the  island  hills  and  plains.  Many  of  the  Aleutian  Islands  lie  south  of  the 
latitude  of  Liverpool,  and  have  a  climate  not  greatly  different  from  that  of  northern  Eng- 
land. The  Aleuts  are  short,  yellowish-brown,  Japanese-looking  people,  with  large  mouths, 
flat  noses,  high  cheek-bones,  small  eyes,  and  coarse  black  hair.  They  are  exceedingly 
religious,  after  the  manner  of  the  Greek  Church,  being  in  many  cases  moderately  well- 
educated,  and  ranking  creditably  as  traders  and  accountants.  Some  of  them  dwell  in 
their  own  comfortable  houses,  with  American 
furniture  and  tableware ;  and  their  women 
earnestly  copy  New- York  fashion-plates.  There 
are  1,000  Aleuts  and  500  Creoles  on  Atka, 
Umnak,  Unalashka  and  Spirkin  Islands  ;  at  the 
great  trading-station  of  Belkoffski;  and  at  Unga, 
famous  for  its  hunters  of  sea-otter. 

The  most  westerly  point  of  the  United  States 
is  the  island  of  Attu,  3,084  feet  high,  400  miles 
from  Kamchatka,  and  400  miles  from  the  nearest 
Alaskan  village.  Here  dwell  five-score  of  vig- 
orous and  enterprising  Aleuts,  who  (although  very  poor)  have  resisted  advantageous 
offers  to  leave  their  lonely  island-home.  Their  beach-side  hamlet  has  a  chapel  and  a 


ATTU    ISLAND. 


CAPE    PRINCE-OF-WALES. 


46  KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

store.  Blue  foxes  roam  over  the  hills ;  and  wild  geese,  sea-lions,  cod  and  halibut  abound 
near  by.  San  Francisco  lies  2,900  miles  west  of  Maine,  in  a  bee  line,  and  2,943  miles  east 
of  Attu,  and  is  therefore  a  little  east  of  the  centre  of  the  Union.  Since  the  American 


domain  extends  over  196  degrees, 
sun,  in  summer,  is  always  shining 
the  June  twilight  settles  down 


KING    ISLAND,   BERING   SEA. 


or  more  than  half  way  round  the  earth,  the 
on  the  United  States  somewhere.  When 
over  the  gray-green  wastes  of  Bering  Sea, 
and  the  weary  Aleut  fisherman  pulls  his 
canoe  toward  the  shore,  the  morning  light  is 
already  streaming  far  out  over  Maine,  and 
the  axes  of  the  lumbermen  are  arousing  the 
echoes  of  the  Penobscot  forests. 

Bering  Strait  is  forty  miles  wide,  1,000 
miles  north  of  Attu,  between  Cape  Prince- 
of- Wales,  on  the  American  side,  and  East 
Cape,  on  the  Asiatic  shore.  It  is  twenty  or 
thirty  fathoms  deep,  with  a  current  flowing 
northward  into  the  Arctic  Ocean,  and  another  south  into  Bering  Sea,  the  latter  being 
permanent,  the  former  temporary  and  tidal.  Arrangements  have  been  talked  of  to  send 
two  large  steamships  every  season  from  American  ports  to  the  Arctic  Ocean,  bearing  sum- 
mer-excursionists. The  Strait  was  traversed  in  1648  by  Deshneff,  and  in  1728  by  Bering. 
In  1778  Capt.  Cook  explored  and  named  it.  The  Diomede  Islands  lie  in  Bering  Strait, 
two  miles  apart,  one  of  them,  Ratmanoff  (or  Im'ah-khluk)  being  Russian,  and  the 
other,  Krusenstern  (or  Ing'ah-khluk),  American.  They  are  usually  known  as  the  Big  and 
Little  Diomedes.  The  Little  Diomede  is  a  bald  rock  about  250  feet  high,  with  ninety 
Eskimo  inhabitants,  always  willing  to  trade  walrus-ivory  and  fox-skins  for  whiskey  and 
tobacco.  Thirty  miles  away  is  King  Island,  fronting  the  Bering  currents  with  basaltic  cliffs 
586  feet  high,  and  inhabited  by  bold  Eskimo  walrus-hunters  and  kayak-men,  whose  homes 
are  built  on  stages  constructed  on  the  steep  rocky  slopes,  one  above  another,  like 
terraces. 

Leaving  aside  the  long  Aleutian  and  Sitkan  horns,  Alaska  may  be  likened  to  a 
huge  square,  with  its  sea-bound  edges  fringed  by  estuaries,  like  Bristol  Bay  and 
Norton  Sound,  on  Bering  Sea,  and  Kotzebue  Sound,  opening  into  the  Arctic.  It  is 
a  land  of  a  short,  hot  summer,  in  which  all  the  snow  is  melted,  and  a  long,  cold 
winter;  and  upon  its  river-banks  and  ^-— - -  T~~r~--^  coast-line  there  dwell  13,000 


Innuits  or  Eskimo,  amid  the  forever 
no  cereals  or  fruits  can  be  raised, 
lies  within   the   Arctic   Circle, 
frozen    moor    or   tundra,   with 
lakes   and    marshes,    and    low 
The    Eskimo    are    taller 


frozen  fields  where 
One-third  of  Alaska 
>  and  is  nearly  all 
mosquito-haunted 
mountain-spurs, 
stronger  than  their 
brethren  of  Green- 
land and  Labra- 
dor, with  fresh 
yellow  faces,  in- 
clined to  mirth. 

They  dwell  in  bark  shanties  or  cotton 
tents,  in  summer  ;  and  in  winter  in  huts 
of  logs,  entered  by  underground  passages. 
They  eat  trie  meat  of  moose  and  whale, 
seal  and  walrus,  reindeer  ~and  bear,  wild 
fowl,  and  many  fish  ;  dress  in  the  skins  of  animals ;  and  find  great  comfort  in  smoking 
tobacco.  These  bold  sea-hunters  and  fishermen  occupy  the  entire  Alaskan  coast  from 


ARCTIC   OCEAN  :     POINT    BARROW. 


THE  DISTRICT  OF  ALASKA. 


47 


Mt.  St.  Elias  around  to  and  along  the  Arctic  Ocean  to  Greenland,  except  for  the  in- 
trusive Tinneh  colonies  at  Cook's  Inlet  and  Copper  River.  Winter  travelling  inland  is 
done  on  sledges  drawn  by  dogs,  six  of  which  can  transport  several  hundred  pounds  thirty 
miles  or  more  in  a  day.  The  Yukon  traders 
often  make  in  this  manner  journeys  of 
2,000  miles,  during  the  winter  season.  In 
summer  all  travel  is  by  canoes  of  skin  or 
bark. 

Millions  upon  millions  of  geese  and 
ducks,  swans  and  cranes,  herons  and  swal- 
lows, robins  and  grouse  visit  the  vicinity  of 


Norton    Sound   every  summer,   to  lay  their 
eggs  in  the  grass  of  the  lowlands.      It  seems 


GREAT    PACIFIC  GLACIER,    AT    FOOT   OF    MT.     LA    PEROUSE. 

as  if  all  the  birds  of  America  sought  this  desolate  land  to  breed  in,  to  the  great  delight  of 
the  Eskimo,  who  eat  their  roasted  eggs  and  tender  flesh. 

Point  Barrow  has  a  building  erected  by  the  Government,  and  for  two  years  occupied  by 
Lieut.  Ray  as  a  signal-station.  Afterwards,  it  was  maintained  by  the  Pacific  Steam  Whaling 
Company,  and  kept  manned  as  a  trading-post,  where  the  whalebone  from  whales  killed  by 
the  natives  was  purchased.  In  1889  the  United-States  Government  established  a  relief 
station  there,  the  material  for  the  buildings  being  transported  and  put  up  by  the  revenue- 
cutter  Bear  and  the  naval  vessel  Thetis.  In  1871,  33  ships  were  crushed  in  the  ice,  and 
1,200  sailors  became  castaways  on  this  sterile  coast.  In  1876,  thirteen  vessels  were  caught 
in  the  ice  on  this  coast,  and  abandoned,  and  in  1888,  five  ships  were  lost  at  Point  Barrow. 
The  Eskimo  village  of  Nuwuk,  with  140  inhabitants,  lies  near  the  point,  which  is  a  low 
sandy  projection  near  a  shallow  bay.  It  is  the  most  northerly  point  of  the  United  States. 
Yet  here,  during  a  few  days  in  July,  buttercups,  dandelions  and  poppies  spangle  the 


in  the  chill  air. 
length  (over  2,000 
tow  batteaux  for  1,300 
several  shallow  mouths, 
delta  seventy  miles  wide ; 
from  one  to  five  miles 
and  clogs  the  boilers  of 
roses  and  other  plants 
infested  by  enormous 
poisonous  mosquitoes, 
post  founded  by  the 


moors,  and  golden  butterflies  float 
The  Yukon  River  is  of  unknown 
miles),  and  traders'  steam-boats 
miles  up  its  mighty  flood.  It  has 
with  a  dreary  and  water-soaked 
and  for  a  thousand  miles  it  varies 
in  width.  The  water  is  muddy, 
the  steamers.  Blue  grass,  wild 
>w  on  the  shores,  which  are 
swarms  of  most  formidable  and 
Michael,  a  fortified  trading 

Lussians  in  1835,  is  the  metropolis 

if  this  region.      It  lies  far  north  of 
the  Yukon  delta,  on  Norton  Sound, 

)ut  gets  all  the  trade  of  the  great 

iver.  People  bound  for  the  Yukon  first  go  to  this 
port,  whence  light-draft  steamers  run  cautiously 
around  into  the  river,  whose  mouths  are  almost 
closed  by  leagues  of  mud. 

The  short  but  intensely  hot  summers  of  the  upper 
Yukon  country  produce  millions  of  acres  of  rich 
grasses ;  and  barley  has  ripened  at  Fort  Yukon, 
inside  of  the  Arctic  Circle.  The  mean  temperature 
of  the  Yukon  country  is  25°,  and  it  ranges  from  70° 

below,  in  winter,   to  100°  above.     These  winters  of  almost  interminable  length  and  amaz- 
ing snows  keep  the  ground  in  many  places  frozen  to  within  six  to  eighteen  inches  of  the 


INDIAN    RIVER. 


THE    DEVIL'S   THUMB. 


48  KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 

surface  all  summer.  Up  as  far  as  the  Episcopal  mission  at  Anvik,  the  Eskimo  dwell,  along 
the  river ;  but  the  Yukon  shores  above  that  point  belong  to  the  Tinneh,  an  Athabaskan 
people,  whose  fishermen  and  hunters  occupy  its  shores,  and  also  have  log  villages  along 

the  Kuskokwim  and  Tananah.  It  is  800  miles  from 
St.  Michael  to  Nuklakayet,  and  thence  300  miles  to 
the  deserted  Fort  Yukon,  where  the  river  has  a  width 
of  seven  miles,  between  flat  and  mosquito-scourged 
lowlands,  with  the  pale  blue  Romantzoff  Mountains  in 
the  northwest.  The  fort  is  near  the  inflowing  of  the 
Porcupine  River,  above  which  the  Canadians  call  the 
Yukon  the  Lewes  River.  Somewhere  near  the  bound- 
ary, 200  miles  above  the  fort,  are  the  gold-fields  of  the 

MOUNT  ST.  ELIAS.  upper  Yukon,  reached  from  Haines,  or  Chilkat  Mission, 

80  miles  northwest  of  Juneau,  by  crossing  the  coast  mountains,  over  the  Chilkoot  Pass, 
4,100  feet  high,  and  descending  the  Yukon  waters  from  Lake  Lindeman.  It  is  430  miles 
from  Haines  to  Pelly  River ;  550  miles  to  Stewart  River ;  and  670  miles  to  Forty-Mile 
Creek.  A  large  number  of  gold-prospectors  have  ascended  the  Chilkat,  and  crossed  to  the 
h,ead-waters  of  the  Yukon,  which  they  followed  down  to  Bering  Sea.  Several  hundred 
American  miners  are  at  work  on  the  upper  Yukon,  but  without  severe  hardships  little  gold 
can  be  obtained.  The  boundary  line  between  Alaska  and  Canada  has  never  been  marked, 
and  large  areas  of  territory  are  in  dispute,  especially  on  the  upper  Yukon.  In  1887-8,  the 
Dominion  of  Canada  sent  a  surveying  party,  in 
charge  of  Dr.  G.  M.  Dawson,  to  make  a  pre- 
liminary reconnoissance  of  the  boundary  line ; 
and  in  1889-90,  a  similar  party  was  sent  out  by 
the  United  States. 

The  clay-white  and  turbid  Kuskokwim  River 
is  navigable  from  Bering  Sea  for  300  of  its  thou- 
sand miles  of  length.  Two  hundred  miles  up  is 
Kolmakoffski,  once  a  Russian  trading-post  for 
the  5,000  fish-eating  natives  of  the  lower  river. 
The  mosquitoes  in  this  region  are  innumerable. 
The  Colville  and  an  undetermined  number  of 
other  rivers  flow  into  the  Arctic  Ocean.  Formerly  every  year  a  great  fair  was  held  on  the 
Colville,  visited  by  the  Eskimos  for  hundreds  of  miles.  But  the  conditions  of  trade  have 
now  totally  changed  this  and  many  other  ancient  usages. 

The  Alaskan  mountains  are  northerly  extensions  of  the  Cascades  and  Rockies,  and 
culminate  in  the  majestic  St.-Elias  Alps,  from  14,000  to  20,000  feet  high,  the  greatest 
mountains  north  of  Mexico ;  the  Chugatch  and  Kenai  ranges,  never  yet  explored ;  Iliamna, 

12,000  feet  high,  and  an  active  volcano;  and  the 
Aleutian  peaks,  Makushin  on  Unalashka,  Shishal- 
din  (8,000  feet)  on  Unimak,  Korovin  on  Atka, 
and  many  other  volcanic  spires,  rising  from  the 
lonely  northern  sea.  The  District  contains  ten 
active  volcanoes,  and  many  that  are  burnt  out  or 
somnolent.  This  vast  line  of  mountains  runs 
northwest  to  the  Ramparts  of  the  Yukon,  and 
then  turns  southwest  through  Aliaska,  and  is  ap- 
parently continued  by  the  Aleutian  Islands,  sink- 
ing lower  and  lower  into  the  ocean  as  the  range 
advances.  Mt.  St.  Elias  reaches  a  height  of  14,000  feet,  45  miles  inland  from  Icy  Bay, 
which  is  55  miles  from  the  Indian  coast-hamlet  of  Yakutat,  250  miles  northwest  of  Sitka. 


MOUNT   WRANGELL. 


THE   MUIR    GLACIER. 


THE  DISTRICT  OF  ALASKA. 


49 


INDUSTRIAL   TRAINING   SCHOOL. 
Of 


It  crowns  a  vast  wilderness  of  glaciers  (some  of  them  covering  a  thousand  square  miles 
each),  black  rocky  ridges  and  craters,  and  solitary  lakes,  near  the  huge  peaks  of  Mt.  Cook 
and  Mt.  Vancouver.  Lieut.  Schwatka  in  1886,  and  the  Topham- Williams  party  in  \\ 
both  failed,  after  prodigious  efforts,  to  reach  the 
summit  of  this  lonely  peak.  Mt.  Crillon  (15,900 
feet)  and  Mt.  Fairweather  (15,500  feet)  rise  with 
magnificent  effect  from  the  sea,  west  of  Glacier 
Bay.  Mt.  Wrangell,  in  the  forks  of  the  brawling 
Copper  River,  has  an  estimated  height  of  19,400 
feet,  and  perpetual  smoke  pours  from  its  peak. 
The  St.-Elias  Alps  terminate  in  the  Kenai 
Peninsula,  south  and  east  from  the  Alaskan 
Range,  beyond  which  extend  vast  table-lands. 
Along  the  moorlands  of  the  Arctic  coast  rises  a 

long  range  of  low  gray  and  bronze-colored  hills,  sinking  east  of  Cape  Lisburne  into 
gravelly  hillocks.  The  glaciers  of  the  St.-Elias  region  are  of  amazing  dimensions,  some- 
times reaching  twenty  miles  in  width  of  working  face.  The  Muir  Glacier,  where  it  meets 
the  sea,  is  three  miles  long  and  330  feet  high,  a  vast  pearly  and  ultramarine  wall  of  ice, 
with  a  background  of  mountains  rising  15,000  feet.  The  Davidson  and  other  glaciers  are 
famous  for  their  grandeur.  In  the  eighty  miles  from  Juneau  to  Chilkat,  at  the  head  of 
Lynn  Canal,  a  score  of  glaciers  are  visible.  There  are  perhaps  5,000  of  them  between 
Dixon  Entrance  and  the  tip  of  Aliaska.  In  some  inlets  of  this  formidable  coast  the  tides 

rise  and  fall  fifty  feet,  notably  in  Cook's   Inlet   and 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Kuskokwim  River. 

The  Government  consists  of  a  governor,  a  dis- 
trict judge,  a  clerk  of  the  court  (who  is  also  secretary 
and  treasurer  of  Alaska),  and  a  U.-S.  district  attor- 
ney; a  collector  of  customs  and  five  deputies;  U.-S. 
commissioners  at  Fort  Wrangell,  Sitka,  Juneau  and 
Unalashka  ;  and  a  marshal  and  six  deputies.  The 
District  has  no  delegate  in  Congress,  and  no  local 
legislature,  although  its  remoteness  from  the  States 
seems  to  render  such  political  privileges  necessary.  The  National  land-laws  have  not  been 
extended  to  Alaska,  and  only  100  acres  in  the  District  have  legal  titles,  being  by  fee- 
simple  holding  over  from  the  Russian  era.  All  other  estates  are  retained  by  the  irregular 
tenure  of  "squatter  sovereignty"  on  the  public  domain.  The  laws  of  Oregon  form  the 
code  of  Alaska,  as  far  as  applicable,  and  supplemented  by  Congressional  enactments. 
The  executive  officers  are  appointed  by  the  President,  the  Alaskans  having  no  franchise. 

Educational  affairs  are  under  the  direction  of  the  U.-S.  Commissioner  of  Education, 
with  Rev.  Sheldon  Jackson,   D.  D.,  as  U.   S.  General  Agent  of  Education 
for  Alaska.     Wherever   possible,  a  local    school-board  is  established    in 
each  settlement.      Congress  appropriates  about  $50,000  a  year  for 
these  schools,  which  are  less  efficient   in   results  than  could  be 
wished,  because  the  children  are  not  compelled  to 
attend.     There    are    eighteen    day-schools  wholly 
supported  by  the  Government,  two  each  at  Sitka, 
Juneau,  and  Douglas  City,  and  one  each  at  Jackson, 
Metlakahtla,    Klawak,    Fort  Wrangell,    Killisnoo, 
Haines,  Kadiak,  Unga,  Afognak  and  Unalashka.     In  7  ,. 

addition  to  these  schools,  there  are  twelve  boarding-  SITKA  :  GREEK  CHURCH. 

schools  aided  by  the  Government  ;  Anvik  and  Point  Hope  (Episcopal);  Nulato  and 
Kozyroff,  on  the  Yukon,  and  Cape  Vancouver  (Catholic);  Unalaklik,  on  Norton  Sound, 


SITKA:  RUSSIAN  CASTLE. 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 


INDIAN    VILLAGE. 


and  Yakutat  (Lutheran);  Bethel,  on  the  Kuskokwim  River,  and  Carmel,  on  the  Nushagak 
River  (Lutheran);  Cape  Prince-of- Wales  (Congregational);  and  Point  Barrow  and  Sitka 
(Presbyterian).  The  Industrial  Boarding  School  at  Sitka  has  20  teachers  and  170  pupils, 
and  teaches  shoe-making,  carpentering,  blacksmithing,  and 
other  trades.  It  is  the  foremost  civilizing  agency  in  Alaska, 
and  serves  as  a  house  of  refuge  and  a  defence  for  maltreated 
native  youth. 

The  Greek  Church  in  Alaska  has  a  body  of  conservative 
priests,  supported  from  the  Imperial  Synod  at  Moscow,  and 
governed  by  Bishop  Vladimir,  who  has  established  at  San 
Francisco  an  excellent  school  for  the  young  Russians  and 
Creoles  of  Alaska.  He  has  instructed  his  clergy  to  learn  the  English  language,  for  teach- 
ing and  preaching.  This  ancient  church  supports  seventeen  parochial  schools  in  Alaska. 
The  Jesuits  have  founded  missions  and  schools  on  the  Yukon  ;  and  Catholic  institutions 
exist  at  Juneau  and  elsewhere.  The  Presbyterian  Board  of  Home  Missions  and  the 
Church  Missionary  Society  of  England  each  support  two  or  more  schools  and  several 
missions. 

Mails  are  carried  to  Juneau,  Sitka,  Fort  Wrangell,  Loring  and 
Killisnoo  weekly  in  summer,  and  fortnightly  in  winter;  and 
monthly  mails  go  from  Fort  Wrangell  to  Skakan,  Klawak  and 
Jackson.  Three  comfortable  steamships  run  from  Tacoma,  Port 
Townsend,  Seattle  and  Victoria,  to  Fort  Wrangell,  Juneau  and 
Sitka,  most  of  the  voyage  being  among  and  inside  of  the  great 
lonely  islands  which  extend  for  hundreds  of  leagues,  between  the 
Pacific  Ocean  and  the  untrodden  glaciers  and  mountain-ranges  of 
the  mainland.  There  are  over  ten  thousand  of  these  islands  be- 
tween Puget  Sound  and  Mt.  St.  Elias,  partly  submerged  peaks 
of  the  Coast  Range,  often  snow-crowned,  and  separated  by  very 
deep,  narrow  and  protected  channels. 

Ivan  Petrofif,  the  special  agent  for  Alaska  in  the  censuses  of 
1880  and  1890,  divides  the  country  into  seven  sections:  1st,  or 
southeastern,  from  Portland  Canal  to  Mt.  St.  Elias,  about  29,000 
SKOOT  KALPS  TOTEM.  square  miles,  with  1,747  whites,  124  mixed,  4,491  Thlinkets,  952 
Tsimpseans,  and  391  Hydas  ;  2d,  or  Kadiak  dis- 
trict, 70,000  square  miles,  from  Mt.  St.  Elias  to 
Aliaska,  with  1,105  whites,  785  mixed,  1,670 
Eskimo,  866  Athabaskan,  and  246  Thlinket ;  3d, 
or  Oonalashka  district,  including  Aliaska  and  the 
Aleutian  Islands,  15,000  square  miles,  with  520 
whites,  734  mixed,  and  967  Aleuts ;  4th,  or 
Nushagak  district,  318  whites,  28  mixed,  1,952 
Eskimo,  43  Athabaskan,  and  I  Aleut ;  5th,  the 
Kuskokwim  district,  24  whites,  17  mixed,  4,998 
Eskimo,  and  385  Athabaskan ;  6th,  or  Yukon 
district,  with  more  than  175,000  square  miles, 
and  202  whites,  127  mixed,  2,145  Athabaskans 
and  1,438  Eskimo  ;  and  7th,  or  Arctic  district, 
covering  the  125,000  square  miles  between  Cape 
Prince-of- Wales  and  the  Yukon  Mountains  and  the  Arctic  Ocean,  with  2,729  Eskimo  inhabi- 
tants. The  natives  are  of  a  stock  peculiar  to  northwest  America,  from  the  Columbia  to  Mt. 
St.  Elias.  They  are  more  intelligent  and  skilful  than  the  Athabaskan  Indians,  but  like 
them  very  superstitious,  and  dangerous  when  under  the  influence  of  hoochinoo,  a  fiery  rum 


THE  DISTRICT  OF  ALASKA. 


SFAL-FISHER'S    HLH 


which  they  distill  from  molasses.      The  Chilkat  blankets  and  the  fine  silver-work  and  great 

totems  or  carved  wooden  pillars  of  the  tribes,  show  a  notable  industrial  ingenuity,  which  may 

have  valuable  results,  when  the  hardworking  missionaries  shall  have  reclaimed  their  young 

people.     They  are  industrious  and  shrewd,  and  amazingly  ingenious 

liars,  but  will  not  steal  from  each  other.     Otherwise,  their  morals 

are  at  a  very  low  ebb.     The    tribal   relation   is  rapidly  giving 

way,  and  the  chiefs  who  continue  have  lost  much  of  their  influ- 
ence ;  and   the  coast   Indians  have  generally  abandoned   the 

native  costumes.      There  are  now  no  shamans  practicing  their 

sorceries,   in   the   tribes  nearest    the  white  settlements.     The 

Government  has  never  recognized  or  treated  the  Alaskans  as 

Indians,  and  they  are  free  to  come  and  go,  to  sue  and  be  sued, 

and  to  make  contracts,  like  other  citizens.      The  Alaskans  have 

never  been  a  servile  race,  and  have  had  few  hostilities  with  the 

Americans,  receiving,  also,  no  Government  support.      They  are 

fast  patterning  after  the  whites,   and  reaching  out  to  meet  the  new  conditions,  laboring 

in  the  salmon-canneries  and  gold-mines ;  and  are  both  industrious,  frugal  and  ambitious. 

The  5,000  whites  are  at  Juneau  and  Sitka  and  the  scattered  fishing  and  mission  stations. 
Gov.  Stoneman,   of  California,  has  said   that    the  gold-mines  of    Alaska  will  produce 

enough  treasure  to  pay  the  National  debt.      These 

rich  deposits  were  first  discovered  in  1877,  at  Silver 

Bay,   near  Sitka,  where  valuable  quartz-lodes  have 

been  worked  ;    and    other  auriferous    outcrops   are 

already  located  on  Admiralty  and  Unga  islands,  at 

Unalashka  and  elsewhere.      In  1880,  Joseph  Juneau, 

a  French-Canadian  miner  (and  nephew  of  the  founder 

of  Milwaukee)  prospected  through  the  region  which 

now  bears  his  name,  and  found  free  gold  in  great 

quantities  in    the  mountain-girt  Silver-Bow  Basin. 

Over  $1,000,000  in  dust  has  since  been  washed  out 

of  these  placers.     Within  a  league  occur  the  gold-bearing  quartz-beds  of  Sheep's  Creek, 

whose  product  is  shipped  to  Seattle  for  refining.      Two   miles  from  Juneau   is   Douglas 

Island,  where   John  Treadwell  established  the  works  of  the  Alaska  Mining  and  Milling 

Company.      It    is    said    that    $600,000  in  gold    bricks,  are  sent  thence  to  San   Francisco 

yearly,  although  the  ore  is  of  low  grade,  yielding  but 
$7  to  the  ton.     The  quartz  is  easily  quarried  from  the 
hill-side,   and  reduced  by  one  of  the  largest  mills  in 
the  world,  with  240  stamps,   96  concentrators  and  12 
crushers.      There  are  large  deposits  of  silver-bearing 
lead  at  Sheep's  Creek  and  between  Norton  Sound  and 
Bering  Strait.     Copper  is  found  abundantly  on  Kadiak 
and  at  Copper  River;  bismuth  on  Mt.  Verstovoia; 
cinnabar  on  the  Kuskokwim  ;  sulphur  on  Unimak  ; 
and  elsewhere  amber,  sulphur,  marble,  slate,  petroleum 
and  kaolin.      Lignitic  coal  is  mined  on  the  Shumagin 
Islands,  and  appears  at  Coal  Bay  and  Cook's'  Inlet. 

The  fisheries  are  of  enormous  value.  There  are 
fifty  San-Francisco  and  New-Bedford  whaling-vessels 
in  the  Arctic  Ocean,  getting  $1,500,000  a  year  in 
ivory,  bone  and  oil.  The  salmon  pack  has  risen 

30,000,000   pound-cans    yearly,    besides   15,000   barrels.      Prince-of- Wales  Island,   Cook's 
Inlet,  Bristol  Bay  and  Kadiak  each  have  a  score  of  large  salmon-canneries.      The  Yukon, 


ST.-PAUL  ISLAND:  DRIVING  SEALS. 


HAUNT3    OF   THE   SEA    LION. 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 


Kuskokwim  and  Nushagak  rivers  have  unlimited  supplies  of  salmon.  350,000  gallons  of 
herring,  whale  and  dogfish  oil  are  made  yearly  at  Killisnoo.  5,000,000  pounds  of  cod  are 
caught  yearly.  The  yearly  fur-yield  of  Alaska  has  reached  100,000  fur-seals,  5,000  sea- 
otters,  10,000  beavers,  12,000  foxes,  20,000  mar- 
ten, and  15,000  others.  The  Government  has  re- 
ceived from  the  seal  islands  a  sum  equal  to  that 
which  was  paid  for  the  Territory.  The  plant  of 
the  Russian-American  Company  was  purchased  by 
San-Francisco  capitalists,  who  were  incorporated 
in  1870,  as  the  Alaska  Commercial  Company,  and 
leased  the  Pribiloff  Islands  for  twenty  years,  with 
the  privilege  of  killing  100,000  seals  yearly.  In 
1890  the  Government  granted  the  right  of  taking 
fur-seals  to  the  North-American  Commercial  Com- 


JUNEAU    CITY. 


SITKA    HARBOR. 


pany,  for  the  twenty  years  up  to  1910,  for  a  yearly  rental  of  $60,000,  and  $7.62^  for 
each  seal-skin  (besides  $2  revenue-tax).  The  number  of  seals  to  be  killed  is  limited,  the 
first  year  to  be  not  more  than  60,000.  The  seal  islands  are  visited  yearly  by  steam-ships 
from  San  Francisco,  2,300  miles  distant.  St.  Paul's,  of  33  square  miles,  and  St.  George's, 
and  covering  27  square  miles,  have  beaches,  where  the  seals  crawl  ashore  and  breed,  and 
in  June  and  July  the  allotted  number  of  them  are  slain,  and  their  skins  salted  and  sent 
to  San  Francisco.  There  are  365  Aleuts  on  the  Pribiloffs,  with  two  Greek  churches, 
English  and  Russian  schools,  good  American  houses,  and 
medical  care.  4,000,000  seals  visit  the  Pribiloff  Isles  every 
summer  ;  and  up  to  a  very  recent  date  the  number  was 
not  decreasing,  owing  to  the  prohibition  of  killing  females, 
and  the  precautions  taken  to  slaughter  only  young  bulls. 
This  is  the  most  important  sealing-station  in  the  world. 
175,000  fur-seals  are  killed  yearly  in  all  parts  of  the 
globe,  two  thirds  of  which  come  from  the  American  and 
Russian  islands  of  Bering  Sea,  most  of  the  remainder 
being  taken  in  the  sea  itself.  Grave  difficulties  arose  be- 
tween the  United  States  and  Great  Britain  in  1889,  by 
reason  of  American  revenue-cutters  seizing  Canadian  seal- 
ing-vessels  in  these  waters.  These  poachers  haunt  the  waters  through  which  the  seals  pass 
every  spring,  where  by  indiscriminate  slaughter,  with  fire-arms  and  gill-nets,  especially  of. 
pregnant  cow-seals,  they  threaten  the  extinction  of  the  race.  Only  21,000  pelts  were 
secured  in  1890,  by  the  North  American  Company. 

Since  1867,  the  fur-seal  skins  shipped  from  Alaska  have  brought  $33,000,000;  other 
furs,  chiefly  sea-otter,  $16,000,000;  the  canned  salmon,  $8,000,000  (the  largest  cannery 
in  the  world  is  at  Karluk)  ;  codfish,  $3,000,000;  and  gold,  $4,000,000. 

Juneau,  1 66  miles  north  of  Sitka,  has  two 
newspapers,  an  opera-house,  a  library,  a  brew- 
ery,  and  the  Alaska  News  Company. 

Sitka,  the  capital  of  Alaska,  has  a  quaint 
Greek  Church,  the  old  Russian  Government 
House,  high  on  a  rocky  pinnacle,  the  Alaska 
Historical  Society,  and  a  weekly  newspaper. 
The  harbor  is  deep  and  dotted  with  islands, 
and  over  it  Mounts  Verstovoia  and  Edgecumbe  FORT  WRANGELL,  INDIAN  QUARTERS. 

rise  far  into  the  sky.  Metlakahtla,  on  Annette  Island,  is  the  home  of  a  thousand  semi-civi- 
lized Indians,  transferred  by  William  Duncan  from  British  Columbia.  There  are  good 
schools,  a  steam  sawmill,  and  other  civilizing  influences. 


Territory  formed, 
Population,  in  1870, 

In  1880,     .     .     .     . 

White,      .... 

Colored  (civilized), 

American-born,     . 

Foreign-born,    .    . 

Males 

Females,  .... 

In  1800  (census), 


1863 
.  9,658 
.  40,440 
.  35,160 
.  5,280 
•  24,391 
.  16,049 
.  28,202 
12,238 
59,620 
0.4 


All  over  the  great  Territory 

of  Arizona,  by  the  sides  of  its 

rivers  and  on  its  sun-steeped 

hills,   are  the  fortresses   and 

cliff-dwellings,  the  mines  and 

terraces,  and  the  great  systems 

of  canals  which  belonged  to 

the  partly  civilized  people  who 

dwelt  here  six  or  eight  cen- 
turies ago.  Frank  Gushing  estimates  that  300,000  persons 
then  occupied  the  Salt-River  Valley  alone.  The  cliff-houses 
of  the  Rio  de  Chelly  and  the  canons  of  the  Colorado  still 
present  their  problems  to  antiquaries,  some  of  whom  believe 
the  early  Arizonians  to  have  been  of  the  Pueblo  stock  ; 
while  others  trace  them  to  the  Aztecs.  Among  these  mem- 
orials of  a  vanished  race  is  the  Casa  Grande,  a  great  adobe 
ruin,  found  here  by  the  Spanish  explorers  of  350  years  ago, 
and  still  standing  in  lonely  desolation  on  the  tawny  plain, 
viewing  the  Sonora  Mountains.  The  modern  discoverers 
of  Arizona  were  an  Italian  Franciscan  friar,  Fray  Marcos 
de  Niza  (Mark  of  Nice),  whilom  companion  of  Pizarro  in 
Peru,  and  Estevanico,  a  freed  African  slave.  In  15  39  these 
two  went  northward  from  Culiacan,  "as  the  Holy  Spirit 
did  guide,"  and  reached  the  Gila  Valley.  Estevanico  was 
slain  by  the  natives  ;  but  Niza  planted  a  cross  in  Cibola 
(Zuiii),  and  took  possession  of  the  country  in  the  name  of 
Spain.  During  the  next  year,  Alarcon  navigated  the  Col- 
orado as  far  as  the  Grand  Canon,  and  Captain-General  Cor- 
onado,  with  300  Spaniards  and  800  Indians,  marched 
across  Arizona,  to  the  Moqui  pueblos  and  beyond,  fighting 
many  a  stout  battle  with  the  natives.  In  1687,  and  later, 
Jesuit  and  Franciscan  missionaries  did  great  works  in  this 
heathen  land,  and  founded  many  towns  ;  but  the  civiliza- 
tion which  arose  in  their  train  vanished  before  the  forays 
of  the  pitiless  Apache  warriors.  The  missions  were  suppressed  by  the  Mexican  Gov- 
ernment in  1828,  and  the  Indians  destroyed  again  most  of  the  churches  and  mining 
plants,  and  reduced  Arizona  to  savagery.  During  the  Mexican  War,  in  1847,  Gen. 


Tucson. 

.    1685 

Spaniards. 
Annexed  to  the  United  States,  1848 


Population  to  the  square  mile 

Voting  Population 

Vote  for  Congress  (1890), 

Dem., 6,137 

Vote  for  Congress  (1890), 

Rep 4,941 

Territorial  Debt,  .  .  .  $769,000 
Assessed  Property,  .  .  $21,000,000 
Area  (square  miles),  .  .  113,020 
Delegates  to  Congress,  .  .  i 

Militia  (Disciplined),     .     .  307 

Counties, 10 

Post-offices, 172 

Railroads  (miles),  ....  1,097 
Manufactures  (yearly,  in 

1880), $615,655 

Operatives 220 

Yearly  Wages $111,180 

Farm  Land  (acre  in  1880),       135, 513 
Farm-Land  Values,    .     $1,127,946 
Farm  Products  (yearly).    $614,327 
Colleges  and  Professional 

Schools i 

School-Population,     .     .     .  10,303 
School  Attendance,    .     .     .    3,849 

Public  Libraries, 2 

Volumes, 8,000 

Newspapers, 34 

Latitude, 31°  20'  to  37° 

Longitude,  .  .  .  69053'  to  73°32' 
Temperature,  ....  8°  to  109° 
Mean  Temperature  (Tucson),  69° 

TEN  CHIEF  PLACES  AND  THEIR  POP- 
ULATIONS.    (Census  of  1850  ) 

Tucson, 5,I5O 

Phcenix, 3,152 

Tombstone,  . 1,875 

Yuma, 1,773 

Prescott, 1,759 

Hisbee, 1,535 

Florence 1,486 

Nogalts, i,'94 

Flagstaff, 963 

Globe,  .         803 


54 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 


CASA    GRANDE. 


S.  W.   Kearney  marched  his  command  through  the  Gila  Valley,   and  first   brought  this 

country  to  the  notice  of  Americans.     The  part  north  of  the  Gila  was  ceded  to  the  United 

States  by  Mexico  in  1848,   and  the  40,000  square    miles  south  of  the  Gila  came   by  the 

Gadsden  Purchase,  in  1853,  from  Mexico,  for 
$10,000,000.  Gen.  Gadsden  made  great  efforts 
to  have  his  purchase  include  Guaymas,  but  Con- 
gress did  not  support  him,  and  thus  Arizona  is 
devoid  of  a  seaport. 

In  1861  the  United-States  garrisons  retreated 
to  New  Mexico,  evacuating  and  destroying  Forts 
Buchanan  and  Breckenridge.  The  Confederates 
captured  Tucson  and  threatened  Fort  Yuma. 
With  Texan  raiders  on  one  side,  Sonorian  plun- 
derers on  another,  and  the  murderous  Apaches 

everywhere,   the  Territory    was  mercilessly  laid  waste,  and  many  of  its  people  fled  into 

exile.      In  May,  1862,  Col.  Carleton's  column  of  1800  Californians  marched  from  Los  An- 
geles to  Yuma,  and  entered  Arizona,   occupying  it  permanently  for  the  Union,  after  a  few 

skirmishes  with  the  Texan  bands.      At  this 

tlements   north  of  the  Gila  River.       The 

apart  from  New  Mexico  until  1863.      Be- 

the   Indians   massacred  more   than   1,000 

in  1876  the  savages  were  placed  on  reser- 

the    railway     locomotive 

River,     and     the    era   of 

came  to  an  end.  Yet  even 

Apaches  left  their  reser- 

many  citizens  of  the  Gila  y, 

in  the  Sierra  Madre,  where 

with    the    Mexican  Gov- 

foray  occurred  in  1885-6, 

before   Gen.     Miles   cap- 
tains   of    Sonora.      It   is 

dangerous  of  the  Apache 

quently   to    Florida    and 

of  Arizonians  were  killed 

of  the  hostile   Apaches, 

has  grown  rapidly.     The 

born  Americans,  from  the 

na  comes  from  A  rizonac, 

the  head  of  the   Rio  Al- 


time  there  were  no  set- 
Territory   was  not   set 
tween    1864    and    1876 
whites  in  Arizona  ;  but 
vations ;    and    in    1878 
crossed    the     Colorado 
savagery   and   isolation 
as  late  as    1882-3    the 
vations    and    murdered 
Valley.     They    finally  took  refuge 
Gen.   Crook,  acting  by  arrangement 
ernment,  attacked  them.     Another 
when  Geronimo    killed    50  persons 
tured  the  red  warriors  in  the  moun- 
but    a  short    time  since    the    most 
bands  were  banished  to  Texas,  and  subae- 
Alabama.       Yet   even   in  1891   a  number 
by  the  Indians.      Since  the  removal  of  many 
and  the  incoming  of  the  railways,  Arizona 
immigration  has    been  mainly  of  native- 
Western  and  Southwestern  States.     Arizo- 
the  native  (Pima)  name  of  a  locality  near 


tar.      Patrick   Hamilton,  says  :     "Arizona 
is  sometimes  called  THE  SUNSET  LAND,'  and  there  is  no  region  on  the  globe  that  can 
show  such  grand  effects  of 
light  and   shade,    such 
gorgeousness   of    coloring, 
or  such    magnificent    sun- 
bathed landscapes."     It  is 
also  known  as  THE  APA- 
CHE STATE,  from  the  war- 
rior tribe   which   for   cen- 

-          ,  ,  GOVERNMENT  MODEL  OF  EXTINCT  PUEBLO  TOWN. 

tunes    iougnt    the    troops 

of  Spain,  Mexico  and  the  United  States,  and  murdered  thousands  of  miners,  priests  and 

travellers.       These  Bedouin  of  the  West  have  destroyed  nearly  200   towns  and  villages 


THE    TERRITORY  OF  ARIZONA. 


55 


in  the  Mexican  State  adjoining  Arizona,  which  is,  therefore,  sometimes  called  Infelix 
Sonora. 

The  Arms  of  Arizona  bear  a  solitary  deer,  with  pine-trees  and  a  giant  cactus,  and  the 
San-Francisco  Mountains  beyond.  The  motto  is  DITAT  DEUS 
("Let  God  enrich"). 

The  Governors  of  Arizona  have  been  John  N.  Good- 
win, 1863-5  5  Richard  C.  McCormick,  1865-9  j  A.  P.  K. 
Safford,  1869-77  ;  John  P.  Hoyt  (acting),  1877-8 ;  John 
Charles  Fremont,  1879-81  ;  John  J.  Gosper  (acting),  1 88 1-2  ; 
Frederick  A.  Tritle,  1882-5  ;  C.  Meyer  Zulick,  1885-9  5  Lewis 
Wolfley,  1889-90;  and  J.  N.  Irwin,  1890-4. 

Arizona  covers  an  area  equal  to  that  of  Italy,  or  of  New- 
England  and  New-York  combined.     The  chief  features  of  the 
scenery  are  the  vast  volcanic  mesas,   or  plateaus,  from  3,006 
to  7, 500  feet  high,  covering  the  northern  half  ;  the  deep  canons 
CANON  OE  CHELLY.  of  the  rivers ;   and   the  arid   plains   south  of  the  Gila.     It  is 

about  350  miles  from  New-Mexico,  on  the  east,  to  California  and  Nevada  on  the  west ; 
and  400  miles  from  Utah  to  Sonora.  The  mountain-system  of  Arizona  has  a  general  north- 
western trend,  and  unites  the  massive  Sierra  Madre  of  Mexico  with  the  descending  and 


intermingled   terraces  of  the 

which   meet  near  the  Grand 

mountains  rise  in  long  chains 

huas,  i oo  miles  long,  are  sep- 

artesian    wells)    from  the 

Santa  Rita  and  other  ranges, 

Baboquivari      overlooks     the 

these  groups  high  sierras  look 

to  the  great  mass  of  the  Mo- 

of  which,    in    the    center   of 

upland  plain.     Then  the  tre- 

the       San-Francisco     Moun- 

rise  on  the  eastern  front  of  a 

miles    of    peaks    and    ranges 

to  the  Colorado  River.     The 

mighty   highlands    is    Mount 

high,    crowned    during  more 

ing    snows,    and    visible    for 

the  clear  and  rarefied  air. 

on  lies  a  series  of  vast  uninhabited  plateaus,   the  Sheavwitz,  Uinkaret,  Kanab,  Kaibab 


Wahsatch    Mountains    and    the    Sierra     Nevada, 
Canon.     From  the    illimitable   plateau  the  higher 
and  island-like  groups.      The  well-watered  Chirica- 
arated  by  the  Sulphur-Spring  Valley  (famous  for  its 
Dragoon  range  ;  and    farther  west   lie  the    Sierra 
out  to  where  the  lone  peak  of 
land  of  the    Papagos.     From 
across  the   upper  Gila  valley 
gollon    Mountains,    westward 
Arizona,    opens    a    great  dry 
mendous     volcanic   spires    of 
tains,  over   12,000  feet  high, 
labyrinth    of    20,000   square 
and  lonely  valleys,  extending 
sovereign    summit    of    these 
San     Francisco,    12,561    feet 
than  half  the  year  with  shin- 
more  than  200  miles  through 
GIANT  YUCCA.  North  of  the  Colorado  Can- 


and  covered  with 
and  small  grassy 


and  Paria,   flat  on  top  and   cut   by  deep  gorges, 

cones    and   flows    of    lava,    fragments    of    forest, 

parks.     The  desolate  Kaibab  Plateau  is  90  miles 

long  and  35  miles  wide,  from  7,500  to  9,300  feet 

above  the  sea,  and  bordered  by  lofty  battlements. 

South  of  the  river  rises  a  long  series  of  forest-clad 

and   canon-scored   plateaus,   overlooked  by  the    lonely    Red 

Butte,  and  stretching  away  to  the  huge  volcanic  cones  of  the 

San-Francisco  Mountains. 

The  most  astonishing   feature  of  Arizona  scenery  is  the 
Colorado    River,   formed   in   Utah  by  the   confluence  of  the 
Green  River,  from  Fremont's  Peak,  in  the  Wind- River  Mountains  of  Wyoming,  and  the  Grand 
River,  from  Long's  Peak,  in  the  Rocky  Mountains  of  Colorado.     The  drainage  area  of  this 


PETRIFIED    FOREST. 


GRAND    CANON. 


56  KING'S   HANDBOOK  Of    THE    UNITED   STATES. 

mighty  stream  is  equal  to  New-England,  the  Middle  States,  Maryland  and  Virginia  ; 
and  its  channel  is  1,100  miles  long,  from  the  confluence  of  the 'rivers,  or  2,000  miles  long 
from  the  head  of  Green  River.  The  Colorado'  separates  Arizona  from  California  and 
Nevada  for  over  400  miles.  The  remarkable  feature  of  this 
stream  is  its  passage  through  the  most  stupendous  series  of 
chasms  in  the  world,  with  walls  of  marble  and  granite  from 
1,000  to  6,500  feet  high,  very  precipitous  and  oftentimes  for 
many  leagues  perpendicular,  sculptured  into  wildly  fantastic 
forms  and  brilliantly  tinted  in  deep  red  and  yellow,  brown  and 
gray,  purple  and  black.  Sometimes  these  gigantic  cliffs  faii'ly 
overhang  the  water,  and  the  boatman  looking  upward  can  see 
but  a  narrow  strip  of  blue  sky,  apparently  resting  on  the  ragged 
crags.  From  the  rim  above,  the  river  may  be  seen  rushing  and 
whitening  in  the  lifeless  depths  below,  but  the  distance  is  so 
great  that  no  sound  can  be  heard.  On  every  side  labyrinths 
of  canons  cut  into  the  plateaus,  through  which  the  tributary 
streams  plunge  over  resounding  cataracts.  The  Colorado 
enters  Arizona  in  the  long  Glen  Canon,  whose  walls  end  at 
the  shining  Vermilion  Cliffs,  near  the  Paria  River.  Thence  to 
the  Colorado  Chiquito,  for  a  course  of  65  miles,  the  water  rushes  through  the  Marble 
Canon,  with  pavements  and  enormous  buttressed  walls  of  white  and  gray,  pink  and  purple 
marble,  indented  with  shadowy  caverns  and  carved 
into  countless  weird  monumental  forms.  From 
the  Colorado  Chiquito  to  the  hot  desert  of  broken 
rocks  and  naked  sands  at  the  Grand  Wash  extends 
the  Grand  Canon  of  the  Colorado,  for  a  length  of 
220  miles,  with  sheer  walls  from  5,000  to  6,500  feet 
high  ;  and  in  this  distance  the  water  descends  3,000 
feet,  by  many  a  white  rapid  and  roaring  cataract. 

In  1852  the  steamboat  Uncle  Sam  ascended  from 
the  Gulf  to  Yuma,  and  two  years  later  the  Gen. 
Jesup  also  reached  Yuma.  Lieut.  Ivers  ascended 
through  the  Black  Canon  in  1858  with  the  steamboat  Explorer.  From  1872  until  the 
building  of  the  Southern  Pacific  Railroad,  in  1877,  ocean  steamships  ran  from  San  Fran- 
cisco to  the  head  of  the  Gulf  of  California,  sending  their  cargoes  up  to  Yuma  on  smaller 
boats.  Now  the  lower  part  of  the  river,  in  Mexico,  is  rarely  traversed  by  boats,  the  navi- 
gation being  up-stream  from  Yuma  (where  the  railroad  crosses)  to  Castle  Dome,  Ehrenberg 
(130  miles  from  Yuma),  Aubrey,  Camp  Mohave  and  Hardy ville  (338  miles  from  Yuma), 
and  occasionally  153  miles  farther  up,  to  Rioville,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Rio  Virgen,  in 

__.^ =. __._._  ___     _    .      Nevada.      Two  hundred-ton  steamers  frequently 

ascend  to  Rioville,  in  high  water,  after  cargoes  of 
rock-salt.  Most  of  the  freighting  is  done  on 
barges,  towed  by  small  steamers,  and  traveling 
only  by  day,  making  about  fifty  miles  between 
dawn  and  dark.  The  low  water  of  December 
and  the  roaring  floods  of  Spring  equally  baffle 
the  boatmen,  who  are  perplexed  also  by  the 
shifting  sand-bars. 

In    1869   Maj.  J.  W.   Powell   and   nine  men 
IN  THE  GILA  VALLEY.  descended  through  the  Grand  Canon   by  boat 

from  Green  River,  enduring  several  weeks  of  amazing  peril  and   hardship  ;    and  three 
members  of  his  company  were  so  daunted  by  their  sufferings  that  they  abandoned  the 


APACHE    PASS. 


THE    TERRITORY   OF  ARIZONA. 


57 


MEXICAN    WOMEN    WASHING. 


expedition  midway  and  scaled  the  canon  walls,  only  to  be  killed  by  the  Indians  of  the 
plateaus.  The  Colorado  Chiquito  flows  for  nearly  200  miles  through  appalling  gorges, 
which  cut  the  plateaus  into  islanded  shreds.  In  the  south  there  are  several  rivers  that  die 
on  the  plains,  like  the  Santa  Cruz,  the  Hassayampa 
and  the  Agua  Fria.  The  Gila  is  650  miles  long. 

With  its  castle  domes  and  thumb  buttes  and  soli- 
tary sugar-loaf  peaks,  and  its  mesas  of  bare  rock,  or 
beds  of  ashes,  or  leagues  of  yellow  and  vermilion 
sands,  Arizona  abounds  in  the  strange  and  the  won- 
derful. Chalcedony  Park,  in  Apache  County,  covers 
2,000  acres,  amid  a  vast  desert  of  sandstone  and 
lava,  with  the  fragments  of  thousands  of  gigantic 
pines  and  cedars,  brought  here  by  a  flood  or  glacier, 
and  changed  by  Nature's  chemistry  into  brilliant 
chalcedony  and  other  minerals,  in  exquisite  colors. 
Jasper,  sard,  carnelian,  agate,  chysoprase,  and 
amethyst  are  also  found  in  this  petrified  forest,  from  which  great  quantities  of  stone  have 
been  sent  east,  to  be  polished  for  ornaments.  At  one  point,  an  agatized  tree  forms  a 
natural  bridge  over  a  wide  canon ,  and  elsewhere  the  broken  sections  resemble  piles  of 
cart-wheels. 

The  Tonto  Basin  has  a  wonderful  natural  bridge  of  limestone,  200  feet  high,  400  feet 
wide,  1,000  feet  long,  and  six  feet  thick  at  the  top  of  the  arch,  where  there  is  a  hole  through 

which  one  can  look  down  on  the  crystal  stream 
in  the  bottom  of  the  canon.  -  The  natural 
wells  of  Arizona  often  attain  a  great  depth, 
with  a  diameter  of  many  feet.  The  Montezuma 
Well,  55  miles  northeast  of  Prescott,  is  600  feet 
across  and  100  feet  deep,  and  the  Region  of  a 
Thousand  Wells  has  many  of  these  natural 
reservoirs,  from  20  to  100  feet  across.  Many 
invalids  visit  the  Castle-Creek  Hot  Springs, 
near  the  Bradshaw  Mountains ;  and  others  find 
relief  at  Fuller's  Hot  Springs,  flowing  from  the  magnificent  Santa-Catalina  Mountains. 

Arizona  is  a  part  of  the  great  Mexican  plateau,  with  its  pure,  dry  and  electric  air, 
balmy  in  winter  and  parching  in  summer,  and  the  attendant  paucity  of  animal  life,  and  a 
flora  including  many  fantastic  desert  growths.  The  climate  varies  greatly,  from  the  brac- 
ing air  and  deep  winter  snows  of  the  north  to  the  amazing  heats  of  the  region  bordering  on 
Sonora,  in  some  parts  of  which  the  temperature  passes  100°  for  100  consecutive  days,  and 
sometimes  reaches  1 1 2°  in  the  shade.  South  of  the  34th  parallel  the  summers  are  twelve 
months  long,  and  snow  never  falls.  This  intense  fervor  is  not  productive  of  disease,  and 
sunstrokes  are  unknown,  on  account  of  the  extraor- 
dinary dryness  of  the  air,  which  reduces  the  sensible 
temperature  many  degrees.  While  the  lowlands  are 
parched  and  dry,  the  mountains  abound  in  rain  ;  and 
the  chief  local  problem  is,  how  to  properly  store 
up  this  highland  water  for  gradual  distribution  along 
the  valleys.  The  warm,  dry  and  balmy  air  of  Ari- 
zona is  very  agreeable  to  people  with  pulmonary  or 
catarrhal  complaints  ;  and  thousands  of  invalids  of 
this  class  come  hither  in  the  winter  months.  The  FORT  BOWIE- 

rainfall  is  very  small,  especially  in  the  south,  reaching  but  seven  inches  a  year  at  Tucson, 
and  only  three  inches  at  Yuma. 


TUCSON  :    WOOD-PEDDLERS. 


58  KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UN f  TED   STATES. 

The  Agriculture  of  Arizona  depends  upon  artificial  irrigation,  by  whose  aid  crops  of 
wheat  and  alfalfa  (clover)  are  raised,  and  vegetables  of  almost  every  variety.  The  fruit 
product  includes  oranges,  lemons,  limes,  peaches,  apples,  apricots,  figs,  dates,  olives  and  a 

variety  of  berries.  Within  ten 
years  upwards  of  $4,000,000  have 
been  spent  on  irrigating  canals 
in  Arizona.  The  Territory  has 
1,000,000  cattle. 

The  Mineral  Resources  of 
Arizona  are  enormous,  and  her 
leading  industries  are  in  mining 
and  smelting,  crushing  and  milling 
the  ores.  The  modern  output  of 

the  mines  has  passed  $80,000,000;  and  their  product  in  the  days  of  Spanish  control  was 
very  great.  The  export  of  silver  has  reached  over  $5,000,000  yearly.  The  treasure-lodes 
form  a  baldric  crossing  Arizona  diagonally,  for  400  miles,  from  the  southeastern  corner  to  the 
Black  Canon.  The  silver  veins  of  Tombstone  are  large  and  easily  worked,  and  have  pro- 
duced $33,000,000  worth  of  treasure  since  their  discovery  in  1878.  Ed.  Schieffelin,  being 
about  to  depart  into  the  mountains  prospecting,  told  a  friend  that  he  hoped  to  find  a  mine. 
"You'll  find  a  tombstone,"  was  the  answer  ;  and  so  the  rich  mines  discovered  on  the  trip, 
and  the  city  of  6,000  people  that  rose  near  them,  on  a  mesa  nearly  a  mile  above  the  sea- 
level,  were  called  Tombstone  —  and  the  local  news- 
paper bears  the  name  of  The  Epitaph.  Arizona's 
exports  of  copper  have  reached  $4, 000,000  in  a  year. 
The  copper  deposits  at  Clifton  are  among  the  richest 
in  the  world.  The  Copper  Queen,  at  Bisbee,  runs 
several  large  smelters  and  has  made  as  high  as 
$  i ,  ooo,  ooo  a  year.  The  Old-Dominion  Copper  Mines 
are  at  Globe,  with  two  4O-ton  smelters. 

Government. — The  Governor  and  executive 
officers  and  Supreme-court  Judges  are  appointed  by 
the  President ;  and  the  people  elect  members  of  the 
biennial  Legislature  and  a  Congressional  delegate. 
The  Territorial  Prison  is  at  Yuma,  the  Insane  Asylum  near  Phoenix,  and  the  Normal  School 
at  Tempe.  The  Territorial  University  is  at  Tucson.  Arizona  has  24  weekly  and  eight 
daily  newspapers,  several  of  which  are  in  Spanish. 

Phoenix,  the  capital,  is  among  the  vineyards  and  orange -groves  of  the  mountain-walled 
Salt-river  Valley,  in  an  oasis  made  by  irrigation,  with  a  climate  of  short  and  sunny  winters 

and  long  summers. 

Tucson  is  in  the  Santa-Cruz  Valley,  with  four 
churches  and  five  newspapers,  gas,  ice,  and  water 
works,  a  tannery  and  a  smelter,  and  a  large  trade 
with  Sonora.  Prescott  stands  at  an  elevation  of 
5,700  feet,  with  a  bracing  and  salubrious  climate, 
and  in  a  region  rich  in  mines  and  in  magnificent 
mountain-scenery. 

Railroads. —  The  Southern  Pacific  runs  from 
Deming  through  the  Chiricahua  mountains  to 
Tucson  and  Maricopa,  and  thence  along  the  Gila 
to  Yuma.  The  Atlantic  &  Pacific  Railway  runs  through  northern  Arizona.  At  the  Needles 
it  crosses  the  Colorado  on  a  remarkable  cantilever  bridge,  and  enters  California.  Several 
other  minor  routes  are  also  in  operation. 


/IOQUI    PUEBLOS. 


INSCRIPTION    ROCK. 


484,471 
802,525 

591»Si 
210,666 

792,175 
10,350 
416, 


HISTOR  Y. 

The  first  civilized  peo- 
ple to  enter  the  land  of 
the  Arkansas  Indians  were 
the  Spanish  men-at-arms 
of  Hernando  de  Soto,  who 
crossed  the  Mississippi  just 
below  Helena,  in  1541,  and 
remained  in  the  country 
several  months.  The  lit- 
tle army  marched  into  the 

Boston  Mountains,  and  then  turned  south  across  the  Ar- 
kansas, and  followed  the  Ouach'ita  River  into  Louisiana. 

The  next  European  visitor  was  Marquette,  who,  in  1673, 

with  Joliet,    descended  the    Mississippi    to    the    Arkansas 

River  and  made  a  map  of   the  region.      Hennepin  was 

possibly  the   next   explorer,    in    1680.      LaSalle   in    1682 

stopped   at    the   Quapaw   Village,   at    the    mouth    of   the 

Arkansas,  and  took  possession  in  the  name  of  Louis  XIV. , 

King  of  France.      The  first  white   settlement  was  made 

in  1686,  at  Arkansas  Post,  by  Frenchmen,  from  a  party  led 

by  the  Chevalier  de  Tonti.     In  1718  John  Law  obtained 

a  grant   of    land   twelve    miles   square   on    the    Arkansas 

River,  near  the  Quapaw  Village,  which  he  erected  into  a 

Duchy  and  colonized  with  a  company  from  Germany  and 

France  ;    but  his  scheme  failed  and   the    settlement    was 

abandoned.     In  1763  the  Province  of  Louisiana,  including 

Arkansas,  was  ceded  to  Spain,  and  remained  in  her  pos- 
session until  1800,  when  it  again  became  a  French  province. 

At  the  census  of  1798  there  were  368  persons  in  the  Com- 
mand of  Arkansas,  a  district  larger  than  the  present  State. 

Arkansas  became  a  part  of  the  United  States  in  1803,  by 

the  purchase  of  Louisiana,   and  it  was  formed,  with  the 

lower  part  of  Missouri,  'into  the  District  of  New  Madrid. 

Three  years  later,  the  lower  part  of  this  District   was  laid 

off  as  the  District  of  Arkansaw.     In  1 812  Louisiana  became  a  State,  and  the  remainder  of 

the  French  cession  was  organized  as  the  Missouri  Territory,  of  which  Arkansas  formed  the 

eighth  county.      The  Territory  of  Arkansaw  was  created  in   1819;    and  General  James 


STATISTICS. 

Settled  at      ....  Arkansas  Post 

Settled  in 1685 

Founded  by  ....  Frenchmen 
Admitted  to  the  United  States,  1836 
Population  in  1860,  .  .  435,450 
Population  in  1870, 
Population  in  1880, 

White,       .     .    . 

Colored,    .    .     . 

American-born, 

Foreign-born,    . 

Males,       .     .    . 

Females,  .    .     . 

Population  in  1890,  .  .  .  1,128,179 
Population  to  the  square  mile,  1 5.  i 
Voting  Population,  .  .  .  182,977 

Vote  for  1 1  prison  (1888),         58, 752 

Vote  for  Cleveland  (1888),       85,962 

Net  State  debt $13,309 

Assessed    Valuation    of 

Property,  ....  $172,408,49? 
Area  (square  miles),  .  .  .  53,850 
U.  S.  Representatives  (in  1893),  6 
Militia  (disciplined),  ....  2,320 

Counties, TO 

Post-offices,     .     .     . 
Railroads  (mile-),     •     • 
Manufactures  (yearly), 

Operatives, 

Yearly  Wages,      .     .     . 
Farm  Land  (in  acres), 
Farm-Land  Values, 
Farm  Products  (yearly), 

Colleges, 

School-Population,   .     . 
School  Attendance, 
Public  Libraries,       .     . 

Volumes 

Newspapers,  .... 
Latitude, ....  33°  to  36°  30'  N. 
Longitude,  .  .  &)°4S'  to  04°4o'  W. 
Temperature,  ....  7%°  to  98° 
Mean  Temperature  (Little 

Rock),  . .63° 

TEN    CHIEF   PLACES   AND   THEIR 
POPULATIONS.    (Census  of  1800.) 

Little  Rock, 25,874 

Fort  Smith, 11,311 

Pine  Bluff 

Hot  Springs,    .... 

Helena, 

Eureka  Springs,  .  . 
Texarkana,  (Ark.  part). 
Fayetteville,  .... 

Camden,       

Arkadelphia,        ... 


.    .  2,213 

$7,000,000 

.     .4,506 

$925,358 

12,061,541 

$74,240,655 

$45,000,000 

.     •         4 

404,379 

141,500 

.    .         I 

.       20,000 


1,953 

1,086 
5,189 
3.706 
3,528 
2,042 
2.571 
2,455 


6o 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


Miller  of  New  Hampshire  was  the  first  governor,  appointed  by  President  Monroe.  At  this 
time  the  Quapaw  Indians  held  the  central  part  of  the  State,  which  was  obtained  from  them 
by  treaty  in  1824,  and  partly  occupied  for  several  years  by  the  Choctaws.  The  Cherokee 

Nation  after  1817  held  the  northwest  part  (formerly 
the  Osage  country),  which  they  gave  up  in  1828. 
The  first  legislature  met  at  Arkansas  Post,  the 
capital  until  1821,  when  the  seat  of  government 
passed  to  Little  Rock.  The  census  of  1820  gave 
the  Territory  a  population  of  14,255.  Arkansas 
became  a  State  in  1836,  its  first  governor  being 
James  S.  Conway.  It  then  had  a  population  of 
47,700. 

At  the  outbreak  of  the  Civil  War  the  sentiment 
of  the  people  was  in  favor  of  the  Union  ;  but  it  soon 

turned,  and  in  May,  1861,  an  ordinance  of  secession  was  passed,  and  the  State  was  admitted 
into  the  Southern  Confederacy  in  the  same  month.  Out  of  a  voting  population  of  61,198 
in  1860,  50,000  enlisted  in  the  Confederate  service,  while  over  13,000  entered  the  Union 
service. 

The  Confederate  army  of  30,000  men,  under  Van  Dorn,  was  defeated  in  a  long  battle 
at  Pea  Ridge  (March  6-8,  1862);  and  Curtis's  Union  troops  marched  to  Helena.  Blunt 
and  Herron  defeated  Hindman's  Confederates  at  Prairie  Grove 
(December  7,  1862),  1,000  men  falling  in  each  army. 
A  few  weeks  later,  a  United- States  fleet,  after  a  long 
bombardment,  captured  the  fortress  of  Arkansas  Post 
and  its  garrison  of  5,000  men.  September  10,  1863, 

Gen.  Steele  occupied  Little  Rock,  with  the  Army  of    ^iTjTfliripB''1~  ^^/^ 

Arkansas,  and  re-established  the  National  authority. 
The  most  disastrous  results  arose  from  the  guerilla 
warfare,  which  was  peculiarly  favored  by  the  remote- 
ness of  this  region  from  the  main  armies,  and  the 
rugged  nature  of  the  country.  These  marauders  were  CRESCENT  SPRING. 

despised  alike  by  Union  and  Confederate  troops,  and  the  bitter  feelings  engendered  lasted 
for  many  years,  and  helped  make  the  "Reconstruction  days"  a  dark  period  in  Southwestern 
history.  The  State  remained  under  military  rule  from  1865  until  1868,  when  a  constitution 
was  framed,  and  Arkansas  again  became  a  part  of  the  Union. 

In  the  decade  of  the  great  civil  war,  the  advance  of  the  State  was  retarded  greatly,  but 
since  the  drums  ceased  to  roll  along  the  Arkansas  Valley,  and  especially  since  the  recon- 
struction troubles  passed  away,  a 
new  era  of  growth  has  begun,  with 
a  noble  progress  in  order  and  pros- 
perity. State  scrip  has  advanced 
in  value,  and  is  now  at  par  ;  the 
State  debt  has  been  reduced,  and 
the  county  indebtedness  adjusted  ; 
schools  have  opened  for  both  races  ; 
and  immigration  and  capital  have 
increased,  all  contributing  to  an 
unprecedented  growth.  The  com- 
mon-school system  has  been  so 
carefully  guarded  as  to  win  the 
plaudit  of  being  among  the  best  in  the  South.  The  most  stringent  and  inevitable  laws  have 
latterly  been  made  and  enforced,  against  buying,  selling  or  carrying  weapons,  and  this 


WHITE    RIVER. 


NATURAL   BRIDGE. 


THE  STATE   OF  ARKANSAS. 


61 


dangerous  custom  has  to  a  great  extent  passed  away.     The  vice  of  drunkenness  has  also 

been   greatly   abated   by   the   prohibition   laws,    which   are   now   enforced   in   nearly    50 

counties.     There  were  112,000  slaves  freed  in  Arkansas,  and  one-third  of  the  population  is 

of  African  descent. 

The  Name  of  the  State  first  appeared  on  Marquette's  map  in 

1673,  and  belonged  to  an  Indian  tribe  living  on  the  Mississippi, 

near  the  mouth  of  the  Arkansas  River.      Shea  thinks  that  was  a 

title  given  by  the  Algonquins  to  the  Quapaw  tribe  ;   and  its  mean- 
ing is  not  known,  the  theories  that  it  came  from  Arc  (bow)  Kansa 

(from  the  strong  bows  used  by  these  Indians),  or  from  Arc-en-sang, 

being  purely  fanciful.     The  name  has  been  doubtfully  interpreted 

as  "Bow  of  Smoky  Water."      In  1 88 1  it  was  "Resolved  by  both 

houses  of  the  General  Assembly  :   That  the  only  true  pronunciation 

of  the  name  of  the  State  is  that  received  from  the  native  Indians  by 

the  French,  and  committed  to  writing ;  and  that  it  should  be  pro- 
nounced with  the  final  s  silent,  the  a  with  the  Italian  sound,  and 

the  accent  on  the  first  and  last  syllables — being  the  pronunciation 

formerly  universal  and  now  still  most  commonly  used."     Arkansas  is  known  as  THE  BEAR 

STATE,  from  the  number  of  these  animals  that  once  infested  her  forests.     Her  people  used  to 

be  called  Toothpicks,  in  playful  allusion  to  the  huge  bowie-knives  carried  by  the  pioneers. 
The  Arms  of  Arkansas  (adopted  in  1864)  consist  of  a  shield,  upon  which  is  embla- 
zoned a  steamboat,  plough,  bee-hive,  and  sheaf 
.^jjjjjJBjfo.       nirnmr        °^  w^eat-     This  is  borne  on  the  breast  of  an 

^1  ^%Jto^^i '^itfiifW  ^Am&*~  '   eaS^e'  w^°  kolds  in  his  talons  an  olive-branch 

\^  ^MlifflS^  and  a  bundle  of  arrows.  There  is  also  an 
angel,  inscribed  "Mercy,"  and  a  sword,  in- 
scribed "Justice."  The  crest  is  the  Goddess 
of  Liberty,  holding  a  wreath,  and  a  pole  with 
a  liberty-cap,  and  nearly  surrounded  with 
radiant  stars.  The  motto  is  REGNANT  POPULI, 
("The  People  Rule"). 
The  Governors  have  been  :  Territorial: 

James  Miller,  1819-25;  Geo.  Izard,  1825-9;  John  Pope,  1829-35;  Wm.  S.  Fulton,  1835-6. 

State:   James  S.  Con  way,  1836-40;  Archibald  Yell,  1840-4;  Thomas  S.   Drew,  1844-9; 

John  S.  Roane,  1849-52;  John  R.  Hampton  (acting),  1852;  Elias  N.  Conway,  1852-60; 

Henry  M.  Rector,  1860-2  ;    Thomas  Fletcher  (acting),  1862;    Harris  Flanagin,    1862-4; 

Isaac' Murphy,    1864-8;    Powell   Clayton,    1868-71;    Ozro   A.    Hadley  (acting),    1871-3; 

Elisha  Baxter,  1873-4;   Augustus  H.  Garland,    1874-7;   Wm.  R.  Miller,   1877-81;  Thos. 

J.  Churchill,    1881-2;  James  H.   Berry,    1883-5;    Simon  P.   Hughes,  '1885-9;  James  P. 

Eagle,  1889-93. 

Descriptive. — Arkansas  is  larger 

than  England,  New  York,  or  Virginia  ;     ,.-  - 

and   when    settled    as  thickly 

as    Massachusetts    will    have 

12,000,000  inhabitants.      The 

St. -Louis,     Iron-Mountain    & 

Southern  Railway  divides  the 

State   into    highlands    on  the 

west  and  north,  and  lowlands 

on  the  east  and  south.       The 

lowlands  have  an  elevation  of  300  feet  above  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  while  the  highlands  rise 

in  places  to  3,000  feet,  the  eastern  portion  and  the  "bottoms"  containing  the  most  fertile 


WHITE    RIVER  :      COTTON    BOAT. 


FARMING    IN    ARKANSAS. 


62 


KING^S  HANDBOOK   OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 


ARKADELPHIA:    OUACHITA  COLLEGE:. 


lands,  best  adapted  to  cotton.  Portions  of  this  area,  along  the  large  streams,  remain  sub- 
ject to  overflow,  and  are  therefore  not  so  healthful  as  the  western  and  northern  parts  of  the 
State.  In  the  flat  region  between  Little  Rock  and  Memphis  are  great  prairies  devoted  to 
grazing.  South  of  the  Arkansas  the  ridges  have  an  east  and  west  trend, 
and  an  elevation  of  I,ooo  feet,  rising  in  Polk  County  (Round  and  Rich 
Mountains)  to  2,450  and  2,650  feet  ;  in  Scott  County  (Poteau,  Petit- Jean 
and  Fourche  Mountains),  to  from  2,450  to  2,850  feet,  and  in 
Logan  County  reaching  2,850  feet,  in  Magazine  Mountain. 
Toward  the  east  the  land  falls  away  until,  at  Little  Rock, 
the  hilly  country  has  an  elevation  of  but  500  feet.  The 
mountainous  region  south  of  the  Arkansas  is  adapted  to 
fruit  and  cattle  raising,  and  produces  much  cotton  and 
corn.  North  of  the  Arkansas  and  at  the  eastern  end  of 
the  highlands  the  country  rises  from  the  alluvial  bottoms 
to  the  Blue  Mountains  (the  eastern  end  of  the  Boston 
range),  in  Stone  and  Searcy  counties,  reaching  an  elevation  of  1,800  feet.  The  north  face 
of  the  Boston  Mountains  forms  a  steep  escarpment,  and  the  region  to  the  north  is  here  hilly 
and  cut  by  deep  gorges,  and  there  gently  undulating  and  covered  by  fertile  fields.  To  the 
west  the  Boston  Mountains  broaden  out  and  reach  higher  elevations,  their  spurs  extending 
southward  to  near  the  Arkansas  River,  and  the  range  con- 
tinuing into  the  Indian  Territory.  On  the  south  face,  the 
,  mountains  rise  here  and  there  in  a  series  of  steep  and 
rugged  cliffs  and  terraces  to  3,000  feet  above  tide. 
The  St. -Louis  &  San-Francisco  Railway  crosses  the 
range  between  Fort  Smith  and  Fayetteville,  with 
costly  tunnels  and  galleries.  Different  sec- 
tions and  spurs  of  the  Boston  Mountains 
have  local  names.  The  mountainous  region 
and  the  area  lying  north  of  the  Boston 
range  form  one  of  the  most  remarkable 
apple-growing  districts  in  the  United  States. 
The  rich  farms  of  the  north  are  devoted  to 
Much  cotton  is  also  raised,  but  agriculture 
is  south  of  the  Boston  Mountains.  This 


FORT   SMITH 


apples  and  corn,  wheat  and  clover,  and  oats. 

is  not  so  completely  given  over  to  it  here  as  it 

part  of  the  State  is  abundantly  supplied  with  the  finest  springs  of  clear  cold  water. 

The  streams  of  Arkansas  navigable  by  steamboats  aggregate  3,250  miles  in  length. 
The  Mississippi  winds  along  the  eastern  border  for  408  miles.  There  are  steamboat  lines 
from  Little  Rock  to  Memphis,  St.  Louis,  Cincinnati  and  New  Orleans.  The  chief  danger 
is  from  snags,  but  these  are  torn  out  of  the 
rivers,  by  patrolling  snag-boats  owned  and 
manned  by  the  United- States  Govern- 
ment. There  are  16  steamboats  on  ^M^^^^^^^"^"- '••  .-^1 -~  ^^^S^H^f 
the  rivers,  carrying  60,000  passengers  *XMHB»eS".ii4fefe---.  r^LW— jBBSSst?? 
yearly,  and  230,000  tons  of  freight. 
The  Arkansas  is  a  noble  stream,  1,600 
miles  long.  After  breaking  through 
the  Colorado  canons  it  flows  through 
Kansas  and  the  Indian  Territory,  aug- 
mented by  the  Canadian  (900  miles), 
the  Cimarron  (650  miles),  and  the 
Neosho  (450  miles) ;  and  divides  Arkansas  into  nearly  equal  portions.  It  is  navigable  to 
Little  Rock,  Fort  Smith,  and  (in  high  water)  Fort  Gibson,  462  miles,  Grain  was  brought 


FAYETTEVILLE:    ARKANSAS  INDUSTRIAL  UNIVERSITY. 


THE  STATE  OF  ARKANSAS. 


HOT   SPRINGS 


S.    ARVY   AND    NAVY    HOSPITAL. 


down  from  Kansas  in  light-draught  steamboats,  in  1878.  It  is  309  miles  by  river  from 
Fort  Gibson  to  Wichita,  Kansas.  In  January,  June,  and  November  disastrous  floods  some- 
times visit  this  great  valley.  The  White  River,  700  miles  long,  is  navigable  from  the 

Mississippi  up  to  Batesville,  280  miles ;  and  in 
spring  boats  can  ascend  to  Forsythe,  Missouri 
(502  miles).  The  bottom-lands  are  rich  in  cot- 
ton, corn  and  wheat.  The  Ouachita  may  be 
ascended  at  high  water  to  Arkadelphia,  445 
miles ;  and  at  other  seasons  to  Camden,  369 
miles.  Black  River  is  navigable  to  Poplar  Bluff, 
311  miles;  the  St.  Francis,  to  Wittsberg,  135 
miles;  Red  River,  for  1 20  miles;  the  Saline,  to 
Mount  Elba,  125  miles;  and  Bayou  Bartholo- 
mew for  175  miles.  The  rivers  and  lakes 
abound  in  perch  and  suckers,  buffalo  and  cat- 
fish, bass  and  trout,  crappie  and  salmon,  pike 
and  pickerel,  and  other  valuable  food-fish. 

The  world-renowned  Hot  Springs  of  Arkansas  are  55  miles  southwest  of  Little  Rock, 
and  reached  by  a  branch  railway  from  Malvern,  on  the  Iron- Mountain  route.  The  main 
street  lies  in  the  narrow  gorge  between  Hot- Springs  Mountain  and  West  Mountain  :  and 
has  on  one  side  a  long  line  of  hotels  and  stores,  and  on 
the  other  nearly  a  score  of  bath-houses,  some  of  which  are 
large  and  costly  brick  buildings,  with  many  enamelled  por- 
celain tubs.  The  little  valley  is  about  600  feet  above  the 
sea,  and  near  the  Ouachita  River,  whose  vast  valley  is  over- 
looked from  the  Government  observatory.  Ten  thousand 
people  come  here  yearly,  to  seek  benefit  from  the  remark- 
able curative  waters  ;  and  a  city  of  12,000  inhabitants  has 
risen  here,  with  many  small  villas  and  cottages  occupied  by 
chronic  invalids.  The  springs  up  on  the  mountain-side  are 
piped  down  to  the  bath-houses,  so  hot  that  cold  water  has  to  be  added  in  the  tubs.  Heated 
vapors  rise  from  the  water,  and  carbonic-acid  gas  bubbles  up  through  it.  Thick  layers 
of  tufa  have  been  deposited  by  the  springs.  The  hot  springs  along  the  creek  are  used  for 
drinking.  The  waters  are  beneficial  in  cases  of  diseases  of  the  skin,  blood  and  nerves,  and 
for  rheumatism  and  syphilis,  but  often  prove  harmful  in  acute  diseases  of  the  heart,  lungs 
and  brain.  After  three  weeks  of  daily  bathing,  the  patient  rests  for  a  week,  and  then  takes 
another  three  weeks.  The  medicinal  virtue  of  these  waters  has  been  ascribed  mainly  to 
their  high  temperature  and  their  purity.  They  carry  some  silica  and  carbonate  of  lime,  and 

very  small  proportions  of  some  other  minerals  in  solution. 
The  73  springs  vary  in  temperature  from  93°  to  168°, 
(hot  enough  to  cook  eggs)  and  pour  out  daily  500,000 
gallons  of  clear,  tasteless  and  odorless  water.  The 
United-States  Government  owns  the  springs  and  a  valu- 
able reservation  at  this  Arkansas  Bethesda,  and  has 
established  here  a  large  Army  and  Navy  Hospital,  where 
hundreds  of  disabled  officers  and  soldiers  are  sent  every 
year,  generally  returning  to  the  service  cured  and  fit  for 
duty.  The  Senate  has  under  discussion  a  proposition  for 
founding  here  also  an  immense  hospital  for  the  ailing  veterans  of  the  Soldier's  Homes. 

The  Hotel  Eastman,  the  chief  of  the  Hot-Springs  hotels,  opened  in  1890,  is  a  mag- 
nificent semi-Moresque  structure,  practically  fire-proof,  heated  by  steam  and  lighted  by 
electricity,  and  partly  surrounding  a  pleasant  park  and  grounds.  It  can  entertain  800 


HOT   SPRINGS  :    CENTRAL   AVENUE. 


HOT   SPRINGS  :  THE    BATH    HOUSES. 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE   UNITED   STATES. 


HOT    SPKINGS  :     HOTEL    EASTMAN. 


guests,  and  has  accommodations  as  low  as  $3  a  day.  All  the  resources  of  modern  hotel 
science  have  been  drawn  upon  to  make  this  great  inn  as  luxurious  as  possible.  The  value 
of  the  property  exceeds  half  a  million  dollars.  The  parlors  are  grand,  and  so  are  the  dining- 
rooms,  ordinary  and  rotunda.  For  the  men  there  are  special  parlors  and  reading-rooms, 

card-rooms,   and  the  billiard-hall ;   and  the  ladies 

i  -  e  also  have  their  own  parlors  and  reading-room.    The 

-l-^Kr^4^ta=^tos=^ih==-  500  guest-rooms  are  furnished  in  antique  oak  and 
cherry.  A  short  bridge  across  a  street  leads  to  the 
hotel  bath-house,  with  its  eight  parlors  and  forty 
bath-rooms,  abounding  in  brass  and  marble  and 
Roman  porcelain.  Immensely  broad  verandas  look 
out  over  the  park,  and  there  are  broad  balconies  on 
the  roof.  The  observatory  tower  rises  like  a  mina- 
ret, 200  feet  above  the  city,  and  looks  out  over  the 
mountains  and  the  far-away  Ouachita  River,  flashing 
along  its  dreamy  valleys.  The  Eastman  is  one  of  the  model  resorts  of  the  world. 

Within  a  few  miles  of  Hot  Springs  are  the  Potash  Sulphur,  Mountain-Valley,  Gillen's 
White-Sulphur  and  other  celebrated  springs,  each  with  its  hotel  and  other  accommodations. 
Eureka  Springs,  founded  in  1879,  ^n  tne  White-River  Mountains,  is  now  a  city  and  health- 
resort,  visited  by  invalids  suffering  from  rheumatism,  dyspepsia,  cancer  and  Bright's  disease. 
The  surrounding  country  is  picturesque,  with  its  high  limestone  cliffs  and  deep  caverns  and 
mountain-views.  Ravenden  Springs  flow  from  a  high  cliff,  in  the  north,  cold  and  clear,  and 
beneficial  in  cases  of  dyspepsia.  The  Searcy  Springs  are  white  sulphur,  chalybeate  and 
alum.  The  Electric  Springs,  near  the  Frisco  Line,  and  the  Indian  Springs,  near  Neosho, 
are  among  the  other  health-resorts  of  Arkansas. 

The  Climate  of  the  hill  and  plateau  counties  is  one  of  the  most  temperate  in  America, 
being  free  from  the  droughts  of  Southern  summers  and  the  rigors  of  Northern  winters. 
The  equability  of  the  temperature  has  been  likened  to  that  of  the  south  of  France.  Chan- 
cellor Eakin  pronounced  the  State,  as  to  climate,  "  The  Italy  of  America."  It  is  favorable 
for  the  relief  of  bronchial  and  pulmonary  complaints,  rheumatism  and  catarrh.  The  short 
open  winters  are  succeeded  by  long  and  balmy  seasons,  kindly  to  agriculture.  The  climate 
of  the  lowlands,  especially  in  the  uncultivated  regions, 
is  malarious.  The  summer  mean  temperature  is  from 
76°  to  80°,  rising  to  80°  and  88°  in  the  southeast ;  and 
the  winter  mean  is  from  28°  to  40°,  north  of  the 
Boston  Mountains,  and  from  40°  to  52°  southward. 
The  summer  average  at  Little  Rock  is  71.5°;  the 
winter  average  is  48.4°.  The  average  for  20  years 
at  Fort  Smith  is  60.91°. 

Farming  employs  83  per  cent,  of  the  people  of 
Arkansas,  which  is  the  most  exclusively  agricultural 
State  in  the  Union.  It  has  100,000  farms,  with  a 
larger  percentage  of  products  to  value  of  farms  than 
in  almost  any  other  State.  Among  the  articles  produced  yearly  are  600,000  bales  of  cotton, 
valued  at  $26,000,000;  900,000  bushels  of  sweet  potatoes;  1,000,000  pounds  of  tobacco  ; 
42,000,000  bushels  of  corn,  valued  at  $20,000,000;  2,000,000  bushels  of  wheat ;  5,000,000 
bushels  of  oats;  and  25,000  tons  of  hay.  The  State  also  yields  molasses  and  sorghum, 
honey  and  wine.  Five  per  cent,  of  the  land  is  not  tillable,  and  32  per  cent,  is  in  cultivation. 
The  tillable  lands  are  divided  into  the  alluvial  plains  of  the  river  valleys,  the  prairie  land, 
and  the  uplands.  The  river  bottoms  are  remarkable  for  fertility.  Most  of  the  upland 
regions  have  a  fertile  though  thinner  soil.  The  agricultural  implements  are  generally  crude, 
as  are  the  methods  of  cultivation,  especially  in  the  remote  districts.  Marked  improvements, 


"Y  t-rv, 


.=?-       —i 


LITTLE  ROCK  :  LAND  OFFICE  ST.  L. ,  I.  M.  &  S.  R.  R. 


THE   STATE   OF  ARKANSAS.  65 

however,  have  been  made  in  this  line  in  the  last  few  years  by  the  introduction  of  improved 
machinery  and  a  more  thorough  system  of  cultivation.  The  hilly  and  mountainous  north- 
western region  is  admirably  adapted  to  fruit-growing.  Apples  as  fine  as  any  in  the  Union 
are  raised  here,  and  peaches  are  an  almost  spontaneous  crop,  while  grapes,  cherries  and  other 
small  fruits  flourish.  It  is  only  in  recent  years  fruit-culture  has  received  much  attention, 
and  this  promises  soon  to  be  one  of  the  most  productive  fruit-regions  in  the  country. 

There  are  about  30,00x3  square  miles  of  timber  land  in  Arkansas,  the  most  abundant 
being  the  yellow  pine,  which  is  commonly  sold  in  northern  markets      i     under  the  name 
of  "Georgia  pine."     There  are   15,000  square  miles  of  pine  land. 
The  cypress  is  found  in  the  swamps  of  the  east  and  south. 
Different  species  of  oaks  abound,  the  white  oaks  being  the 
most  numerous  and  valuable.     Yellow  poplar  occurs  in 
the  east,  and  cedar  is  abundant  in  the  northern  moun- 
tains.     Other  valuable  woods  are  walnut,  cherry,  sweet 
gum,  hickory,  beech,  maple,  elm  and  ash.     Persimmon, 
pecan,  catalpa,  sycamore,  buckeye,  dogwood,  and  locust 
are  some  of  the  other  common  varieties.  ARKANSAS  SCHOOL  FOR  THE  BLINa 

From  these  forests,  $20,000,000  worth  of  lumber  is  cut  yearly,  large  shipments  being 
made  to  Europe.  The  woods  are  well-stocked  with  game,  the  deer  and  wild  turkeys  of  the 
Deer  Range,  beyond  Black  River,  the  foxes  and  deer  of  the  Pine-Bluff  country,  the  bear 
and  deer  of  the  Pennington  Forest,  the  panthers  and  wolves,  bear  and  deer  of  the  Fort- 
Smith  region.  The  domestic  live-stock  is  valued  at  $25,000,000,  and  includes  320,000 
horses  and  mules,  825,000  cattle,  225,000  sheep  and  1,600,000  swine.  The  winterless  years 
of  Arkansas  are  peculiarly  favorable  for  farmers,  since  the  plough  need  never  be  idle. 
Their  fruits  and  vegetables  are  the  first  in  the  Western  markets.  The  apples  raised  here 
have  no  superiors  for  beauty  and  flavor  ;  and  grapes  and  peaches  are  equally  successful  in 
this  land  of  temperate  and  long-enduring  sunshine.  Arkansas  is  fourth  among  the  States  in 
the  value  of  her  crops  per  acre  cultivated,  being  surpassed  only  by  Rhode  Island,  Massa- 
chusetts and  Louisiana.  There  are  United- 
States  land  offices  at  Little  Rock  and  Dar- 
danelle,  Camden  and  Harrison.  Large 


LITTLE    ROCK  I       DEAF-MUTE    INSTITUTE. 


LITTLE    ROCK  :       STATE    INSANE   ASYLUM. 

areas  of  land  are  still  open,  5,000,000  acres  of 
United-States  domain  standing  ready  for  grants 
to  actual  settlers.  The  State  has  2,000,000 
acres ;  and  the  railroads  also  hold  enormous 
tracts  of  land-grants,  ready  for  sale  at  low  prices 
and  on  easy  terms  of  payment. 

In  1853  Congress  granted  a  vast  area  of  land 
to  the  St. -Louis,  Iron-Mountain  &  Southern  Railway  ;  and  after  the  Secession  storm,  this 
grant  was  confirmed,  in  1866.  On  these  millions  of  acres,  stretching  like  a  baldric  from 
northeastern  to  southwestern  Arkansas,  the  railroad  has  settled  a  great  number  of  farmers, 
selling  their  lands  at  low  prices,  and  on  long  time.  The  climate  is  favorable  for  agricultural 
pursuits,  with  a  season  of  cultivation  extending  from  February  to  November  ;  and  the  fertile 
soil  offers  unusual  inducements  to  immigrants.  Another  great  tract  of  800,000  acres  now 
open  to  settlement  pertains  to  the  Little-Rock  &  Fort-Smith  Railroad,  whose  line  it  follows 
up  the  beautiful  and  broad  Arkansas  Valley,  productive  of  cotton  and  oats,  corn  and  wheat, 
and  the  best  of  fruits  and  vegetables.  This  rich  belt  lies  between  the  Magazine  Mountains 


66 


A'ING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 


on  the  south,  and  the  Boston  Mountains  on  the  north,  in  the  heart  of  the  State,  and  is  fast 
developing  into  a  populous  and  prosperous  farming  region.  The  land  offices  of  these  com- 
panies are  at  Little  Rock,  under  the  superintendence  of  Col.  Thomas  Essex. 

The  Finances  of  Arkansas  were  seriously  affected  by  the 
profligate  expenditures  of  the  carpet-bag  governments  during 
the  Reconstruction  era,  and  in  1874  Gov.  Garland  found  the 
treasury  empty,  and  a  great  public  debt  outstanding.  The 
rising  tide  of  prosperity  throughout  the  State  has  swept  away 
this  unfortunate  condition  of  finance,  and  brought  in  a  securer 
and  happier  condition  of  affairs.  The  entire  debt,  outside  of 
that  owed  to  the  United  States,  will  be  retired  in  a  few  years. 
The  oldest  incorporated  bank  in  Arkansas  is  the  First  National 
Bank,  whose  building  at  Little  Rock  is  the  finest  for  the  pur- 
pose within  the  borders  of  the  State.  The  First  National  Bank 
is  under  the  presidency  of  H.  G.  Allis,  one  of  the  foremost 
public  men  of  the  State,  and  a  firm  supporter  of  every  wise 
enterprise.  The  institution  has  grown  with  the  growth  of  the 
IONALBANK.  community)  and  now  has  a  capital  of  $500,000,  with  a  surplus 
fund  and  undivided  profits  exceeding  $100,000,  and  resources  of  $1,750,000. 

Minerals. — A  geological  reconnaissance  of  the  State  was  begun  in  1858-9,  under  Dr. 
David  Dale  Owen,  and  resumed  in  1887,  when  a  complete  geological  survey  was  undertaken 
under  the  direction  of  Dr.  John  C.  Branner.  This  survey  has  shown  that  the  chief  minerals 
are  coal,  lignite,  manganese,  marble,  limestone,  granite  and  other  building  stones,  Mexican 
onyx,  novaculites,  aluminum  ore,  gypsum,  chalk,  fertilizing  marls,  saline  and  mineral  waters, 
china  and  pottery  clay.  Slate  has  been  quarried;  and  the  iron  ore  of  Lawrence  County 
was  once  utilized.  Zinc  occurs  in  the  north,  and  antimony  is  mined  in  Sevier  County.  A 
copper-mine  has  been  opened  in  Searcy  County ;  and  steatite  is  found  in  Saline  County. 
The  gray,  pink  and  variegated  Arkansas  marble  is  of  the  same  character  as  the  Tennessee 
marble,  and  occurs  in  great  quantity  and  in  good  condition  for  quarrying.  No  marble 
industry  has  been  attempted  here.  The  manganese  region  is  one  of  the  most  productive 
and  valuable  in  North  America,  the  ore  being  especially  adapted  to  the  manufacture  of 
Bessemer  steel.  The  blue  granites  cover  twelve  square  miles,  and  the  stone  is  remarkably 
beautiful  and  strong,  being  well  adapted  to  architectural  work,  as  well  as  for  paving.  The 
novaculites  (or  whetstone  rocks)  are  found  only  in  this  State,  where  they  cover  a  large 
area,  in  Hot-Spring,  Garland,  Montgomery  and  Polk  counties.  The  finer  whetstones  used 
by  dentists,  jewelers  and  engravers,  and  all  our  razor-hones,  come  from  this  region.  Chalk, 
such  as  that  used  in  Europe  in  making  Portland  cement,  occurs  in  Little-River  County, 
while  the  finest  of  plastic,  refractory  and  alum  clays  abound  in  the  centre  and  south. 
The  coal  is  especially  valuable,  and  available  for  many  uses.  Some 
is  bituminous  and  some  semi-anthracite.  It  occurs  in 
workable  quantities  in  eight  of  the  western  counties.  The 
coal  industry  is  being  rapidly  developed.  The  total 
product  for  1887  was  129,600  tons,  while  that  for 
1888  was  276,871  tons.  Lignite  abounds  in  the 
south,  especially  about  Camden.  The  distribution 
of  Arkansas  minerals  is  given  in  detail  in  the  reports 
of  the  Geological  Survey. 

Government. — The  governor  is  elected  every 
two  years.  The  Legislature  meets  biennially.  There 
are  32  senators  and  92  representatives.  The  Judiciary  is  composed  of  the  Supreme  Court, 
with  five  justices;  the  chancery  court;  and  16  circuit  courts.  The  Eastern  District 
United- States  Court  sits  at  Little  Rock ;  the  Western  District,  at  Fort  Smith.  The  State 


LITTLE    ROCK  :      BOARD   OF  TRADE. 


THE  STATE   OF  ARKANSAS. 


67 


of  the    State 
percent.,  and 

f 


House  is  a  small  classic  building,  with  wings,  looking  down  on  the  Arkansas  River,  at 
Little  Rock.  It  was  founded  in  1833.  At  Little  Rock  stands  a  monument,  erected  by 
legislative  order,  to  commemorate  the  public  services  of  Ambrose  H.  Sevier,  delegate  of 
Arkansas  in  Congress  from  1827  to  1836,  and  United-States  Senator  from  1837  until  1848. 
The  State  Insane  Asylum,  Deaf-Mute  Institute,  and  School  for  the  Blind  are  on  the  beau- 
tiful pine-hills  south  and  west  of  Little  Rock,  viewing  the  city,  the  river,  and  the  distant 
mountains.  Here  also  is  the  State  Penitentiary,  whose  600  convicts  are  managed  on  the 
lease  system,  in  convict-camps,  except  about  75,  who  remain  in  the  prison. 

Education. — Arkansas  is  paying  more  for  free-school  education,  in  proportion  to  its 
taxable  property,  than  any  other  State.  One  million  dollars  is  spent  yearly  for  schools, 
and  many  buildings  have  been  erected  recently.  Between  1874  and  1890  the  property 
increased  100  per  cent.,  but  the  school-appropriations  increased  2400 
the  enrollment  of  school-children  rose  from  59,000  to  205,000.  The 
Arkansas  Industrial  University,  founded  in  1868,  \vith 
the  United-  States  land  grant  of  1862,  has  30  instructors, 
and  85  students  (of  both  sexes)  in  the  regular  college 
course,  and  348  in  the  preparatory  departments.  Pro- 
vision is  made  for  1,000  beneficiary  students,  to  be  sent 
from  the  various  counties,  in  proportion  to  their  popula- 

LITTLE  ROCK  :  FIRST  BAPTIST  CHURCH.  tion,  with  appointments  from  the  county  judges.  The 
courses  are  engineering,  classical,  agricultural  and  normal,  with  manual  training  shops.  The 
young  men  are  uniformed,  and  form  a  battalion,  commanded  by  a  United-States  Army 
officer.  The  University  buildings  are  spacious  and  modern,  on  a  breezy  plateau  near  Fay- 
etteville,  in  northwestern  Arkansas,  and  overlooking  the  picturesque  Boston  Mountains. 
The  Branch  Normal  College  is  a  department  of  the  University,  established  in  1875  at  Pme 
Bluff,  with  several  buildings  in  a  twenty-acre  park.  It  has  about  1 80  students.  The  medi- 
cal department  of  the  University  began  its  career  in  1879,  m  Little  Rock,  and  has  70 
students.  At  Little  Rock,  also,  are  the  Little-Rock  University  (Methodist),  Philander- 
Smith  College  (for  colored  people)  .and  the  Arkansas  Female  College,  occupying  the  former 
residence  of  Gen.  Albert  Pike,  the  poet  and  author.  Cane-Hill  College  is  at  Boonsboro, 
and  Hendrix  College  is  at  Conway.  Among  other  institutions  are  Ouachita  College  (Bap- 
tist) at  Arkadelphia,  with  250  students;  and  the  colleges  at  Batesville  (Presbyterian), 
Judsonia,  Searcy,  Morrilton,  Altus  and  other  towns. 

Chief  Cities. —  Little  Rock,  the  capital  and  chief  commercial  city,  is  near  the  centre  of 
the  State,  on  the  broad  and  noble  Arkansas  River,  which  here  winds  through  a  rich  rolling 
country.  A  little  rock  near  the  shore  here  was  the  first  bit  of  stone  to  be  seen  on  the 
western  bank  from  the  Mississippi  to  this  point,  and  so  the  old  voyageurs  called  the  place 
for  this  landmark.  It  is  a  healthy,  handsome  and  high-placed  city,  with  broad  granite- 
paved  and  electric-lighted  streets,  lined  with  fragrant  magnolias  and  traversed  by  horse- 
cars,  a  spacious  wharfage  for  the  packet-steamers,  and  30  churches.  The  city  has  an  active 
Board  of  Trade,  and  by  its  various  railway  and  river  connec- 
tions receives  70,000  bales  of  cotton  every  season,  to  be  han- 
dled in  its  compresses.  The  local  trade  reaches  $25,000,000 
a  year.  The  United-States  and  Pulaski-County  Court- Houses 
are  handsome  and  costly  buildings.  The  United-States 
Arsenal,  where  two  companies  of  artillery  are  stationed, 
is  celebrated  for  its  noble  old  trees,  and  has  one  of  the 
finest  parade-grounds  in  America.  Fort  Smith,  on 
the  upper  Arkansas,  has  four  newspapers  and  16 
churches,  with  several  railways.  At  the  old  frontier- 
post  on  this  site  Gens.  Taylor,  Hancock  and  Ar-  "tUHHatHP^^^^f*^^-"-^^^^,  UNIVERSITY. 
buckle  were  stationed.  Helena  is  a  railway  terminus 


LITTLE-ROCK   UNIVERSITY. 


68 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


and  shiretown,  on  the  Mississippi  River,  and  has  some  manufacturing,  and  large  shipping 
interests.     Pine  Bluff  is  an  important  cotton  port,  on  the  Arkansas,  with  many  negroes. 
The  Railroads  of  Arkansas  had  but  85  miles  of  track  in  1860,  from  Memphis  to  Madi- 

„  ___  _  . .  _  r  _____    son,  and  from  Little  Rock  to  Duvall's 

Bluff.  The  St. -Louis,  Iron-Moun- 
tain &  Southern  Railway  owns  up- 
wards of  800  miles  of  track  in  Ar- 
kansas, running  from  the  Missouri 
line  (at  Moark)  to  Texarkana,  diag- 
onally across  the  State  (303^  miles); 
with  minor  lines  from  Knobel  to 
Helena,  140  miles  ;  from  Bald  Knob 
to  Memphis,  93 ;  and  to  Warren,  Nashville,  Hot  Springs,  Camden  and  Batesville.  The 
same  company  (the  Missouri-Pacific  system)  also  controls  the  great  route  running  south- 
eastward across  the  State  from  Fort  Smith  to  Little  Rock  and  Arkansas  City.  The 
St. -Louis,  Arkansas  &  Texas  Railway,  the  "Cotton-Belt  Route,"  rufis  from  opposite  Cairo 


LITTLE    ROCK  :     ARKANSAS    RIVER. 


several 
Francisco 
western 
Springs 


through  Pine  Bluff  and  Camden  to  Texarkana  (and  Waco,  Texas),  with 
branches,  and  417   miles  of  line  in  Arkansas.      The   St.   Louis  &  San- 
Railroad,  from  Seligman  to  Fort  Smith,  has  a  large  trade  in  the  north- 
counties  ;  and  the  Kansas-City,  Fort-Scott  &  Gulf  Line  runs  from  Mammoth 
to  Memphis.     Lines  are  being  built  from  Little  Rock  to  Fayetteville, 
to  Clarendon,  to  Hot  Springs,  to  Alexandria,  La.,  to  Salem,  Mo., 
and  to  Fort  Smith,  south  of  the  Arkansas  River. 

The  Manufactures  of  Arkansas  are  small,  as  compared 
with  the  quantities  of  raw  material  found  within  her  borders. 
Her  coal,  lumber,  clays,  marble,  chalk,  building  stone,  whet- 
stone, manganese  and  cotton,  will  undoubtedly  cause  the  manu- 
facturing interests  to  increase  in  the  future.  In  1880  there 
were  in  Arkansas  1, 202  manufacturing  establishments  employ- 
ing about  5,000  hands,  and  a  capital  of  $3,000,000.  In  1887 
the  number  of  factories  had  increased  to  2,400,  employing 
16,000  hands  and  capitalized  at  $58,000,000.  Flour  and  lumber  mills  employ  the  great 
bulk  of  this  investment. 


LITTLE    ROCK  :     COURT-HOUSE. 


"We  know  that  Arkansas  abounds  in  all  the  material  elements  of  wealth  and  greatness  ; 
that  she  has  over  2,000,000  acres  of  State  lands  to  be  donated  to  actual  settlers,  and  that 
there  are  within  her  borders  5,000,000  acres  of  public  lands  of  the  United  States  subject  to 
homestead  entry,  to  be  had  in  i6o-acre  tracts  at  a  cost  of  not  over  twenty  dollars  per  tract. 
That  many  of  these  lands  have  gathered  fertility  from  the  repose  of  centuries  ;  that  the  cli- 
mate of  Arkansas  is  equable,  genial  and  healthful,  and  free  from 
extremes  of  heat  and  cold.  We  know  that  these  lands  will  pro- 
duce fine  Indian  corn,  wheat,  oats,  clover  and  other  grasses, 
vegetables  and  melons,  berries  and  small  fruit  in  rich  abundance, 
not  to  mention  cotton,  in  which  we  excel  every  other  State  in  the 
quantity  grown  per  acre  and  the  quality  of  the  fibre  ;  or  apples, 
in  the  excellence,  beauty,  flavor  and  value  of  which  we  have  ex- 
celled in  all  competition  at  New  Orleans,  Louisville,  St.  Louis, 
and  Boston  at  the  meeting  of  the  American  Pomological  Society 

j,.    ^  haying 


LITTLE  ROCK  : 

CE   AND    CUSTOM-HOUSE. 


grand  forests  of  the  most  valuable  varieties;  rich  in  minerals,  having  over  12,000  square 
miles  of  coal  fields,  an  abundance  of  iron,  manganese,  zinc,  copper,  marble,  granite,  lime- 
stone, lithograph  and  soapstone."  —  Gov.  SIMON  P.  HUGHES. 


Population  in  1850, 
In 


i,  • 


irds. 
1850 
92,597 
379.994 
560,247 
864,604 
767,181 
97,513 
571,820 
292,874 
518,176 
346,518 
1,208,130 
5-5 


HISTORY. 

In  1 534  the  Spanish  offi- 
cers Mendoza  and  Grijalva 
discovered  Lower  Califor- 
nia, and  the  Gulf  was  ex- 
plored by  Cortez.  In  1542 
Cabrillo  followed  the  Pacific 
coast  up  to  Cape  Mendo- 
cino,  which  he  named  in 
honor  of  the  Viceroy  of  New 

Spain,  Mendoza;  and  in  1579  Sir  Francis  Drake  went  even 

farther  north,  in  the  Golden  Hind,  and  called  the  country 

New  Albion.    In  1602  Vizcaino  discovered  the  harbors  of 

San  Diego  and  Monterey,    "a  narrow  strip  of  sea-board 

with  green  and  grizzly    mountains   for  a  background,  all 

opening  toward  the  sun-waves."       Lower  California  was 

occupied  by  Jesuit  stations  from  1697  to  1767,  when  King 

Charles  III.  replaced  them  with  Franciscans.    When  these 

also  were  supplanted  by  the  Dominicans,  they  withdrew  to 

Upper  California,  and  erected  more  than  a  score  of  paternal 

missions  among  the  Indians.  The  founder  of  Catholic  Cali- 
fornia was  Father  Junipero  Serra,  who  established  the  mis- 
sion of  San  Diego,  in  1769.  The  heroic  priests  gathered  in 

and  Christianized  the  naked  savages,  teaching  them  to  plant 

vineyards  and  orchards,  build  houses  and  churches,  weave 

cloth  and  work  in  metals.     In  1784  Junipero  died,  after 

fifty-four  years  of  priesthood,  and  was  buried  in  the  Mis- 
sion Church  of  San  Carlos,  in  the  Carmelo  Valley. 

In   1770  Junipero  founded  the  mission  of  San  Carlos, 

afterwards  in  the  sea-viewing  flowery  Carmelo  Valley,  near 

Monterey  ;  and  San  Carlos  Borromeo,  close  to  the  beach  at 

Monterey.      San  Antonio  de  Padua,  with  estates  150  miles 

around,  in  the  Sierra  Santa-Lucia,  was  founded  in  1771,  a 

few  weeks  before  San  Gabriel  Arcangel  arose,  among  the 

orange-groves  and  vineyards  near  Los  Angeles,  to  become 

the  richest  of  the  missions.      San  Luis  Obispo  de  Tolosa  was  established  in  1772,  by  Fra 

Junipero,  and  grew  very  wealthy  from  its  vast  fields  along  the  ocean.     In  the  summer  of 

1776,  when  the  Americans  on  the  other  side  of  the  continent  were  at  bayonet-push  with 


STATISTICS. 

Settled  at San  Diego 

Settled  in 1769 

Founded  by    ....      Spani 
Admitted  to  the  U.  S.,     . 


n  1860, 

In  1870, 

In  1880 

White, 

Colored, 

American-born, 

Foreign-bor 

Males.     , 

Females, 
In  1800  (census), 
Population  to  the  square  mile, 
Voting  Population,      .     .     . 

Vote  for  Harrison  (1888),      124,816 

Vote  for  Cleveland  (1888),    1  17,729 
Net  State  Debt,      ....  o 

Assessed  Valuation  of 

Property  (1800),       .     $1,071,000,000 
Area  (square  miles),    .     .     .     158,360 
U.  S.  Represented'  es  (1803),  7 

Militia  (Disciplined),  .     ..        4,304 
Counties,    .......  53 

Post-offices,    ......       1,403 

Railroads  (miles),  ....       4,356 

Manufactures  (yearly),    $116,227,973 

Operatives,      .....      43,799 

Yearly  Wages,    .    .       $21,070,585 
Farm  Land  (acres,  in  1880)  16,593,742 


Farm-Land  Values,      $262,051,282 
Colleges  and  Profes'nal  Scho 
School-Population, 


hools,  13 
.  275,302 

School-Attendance,  .  .  .  143,733 
Public  Libraries,  ....  16 

Volumes,     ......    553,ooo 

Newspapers,      .....  568 

Latitude,    ....  32°28'  to  42°  N. 

Longitude,     .   H4°3o'  to  I24°45/  W. 
Temperature,      .     .     .     .  266toii2° 

Mean  Temperature  (San 

Francisco),      .....  55° 

TEN  CHIEF  CITIES  AND  THEIR  POPU- 
LATIONS     (Census  of  1890.) 


San  Francisco, 
Los  Angeles, 
Oakland,   .     . 
Sacramento,  . 
San  Jose,  .     . 
San  Diego, 
Stockton,  .     . 
Alameda,  .     . 
Fresno,      .    . 
Vallejo,      .     . 


298,997 
50,395 
48,682 
26,386 
18,060 
16,159 


10,818 
6,343 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED  STATES. 


MONTEREY  :    OLD    MISSION. 


England's  armies,  the  Mission  de  los  Dolores  de  Nuestro 
Padre  San  Francisco  de  Asis  came  into  existence,  on  the 
site  of  the  present  metropolis  of  the  Pacific.  Junipero 
also  occupied  the  lovely  valley  south  of  the  Bay, 
with  the  mission  of  Santa  Clara  de  Assis,  "virgin, 
abbess  and  matriarch,"  which  in  time  had  a 
magnificent  church,  with  rich  silver,  and  170,- 
ooo  head  of  live-stock.  San  Juan  Capistrano 
owned  45  miles  of  sea-front,  and  the  groves 
and  grain-fields  extending  back  to  the  mountains.  San 
Buena  Ventura,  established  in  1782,  held  1,500  square 
miles  of  rich  land  on  the  Santa-Barbara  Channel.  Twenty-seven  miles  northward,  the  friars 
in  1786  founded  the  mission  of  Santa  Barbara,  famous  for  its  sweet  Spanish  bells  and  rich 
gardens.  La  Purisima  began  in  1787,  in  the  Coast  Range,  and  was  renowned  for  its  swift 
and  beautiful  horses.  Nuestra  Senora  de  la  Soledad  (1791)  occupied  the  great  plain  Llano 
del  Rey,  45  miles  southeast  of  Monterey,  and  had  an  aqueduct  five  leagues  long.  Santa 
Cruz  (1791)  stood  on  the  sea-ward  rim  of  the  valley  in  which  the  present  city  nestles.  Its 
venerable  church  is  now  a  stable.  San  Juan  Bautista  (1794),  30  miles  northeast  of  Mon- 
terey, was  secularized  40  years  later,  having  acquired  great  wealth.  San  Fernando  Rey 
0797)  produced  fine  brandy,  on  the  plain  north  of  San  Gabriel.  San  Miguel,  on  the 
Salinas,  dates  from  the  same  year.  San  Jose  (1797),  15  miles  north  of  the  present  city, 
was  famous  for  its  grain,  which  the  Russians  on  the  northern  coast  bought.  It  had  a 
church,  watching  over  3,000  Indians.  The  great  quad- 
rangle of  San  Luis  Rey  de  Francia  was  built  by  Father 
Peyri  in  1798.  Santa  Ines  (1804),  40  miles  north  of 
Santa  Barbara,  was  renowned  for  vast  herds,  and  its 
property  had  a  value  of  $800,000.  San  Rafael  (1817) 
and  San  Francisco  de  Solano  (1823)  were  the  latest 
stations  founded,  and  the  only  ones  north  of  the  Bay. 
There  were  Spanish  military  posts  at  San  Diego,  Mon- 
terey, San  Francisco  and  Santa  Barbara,  each  with  70  soldiers  and  a  few  cannon,  for  the 
defence  of  the  missions  and  pueblos  against  heathen  Indians.  For  over  half  a  century  the 
calm  life  of  these  patriarchal  monks  and  their  obedient  catechumens  passed  on  almost  with- 
out a  ripple.  By  1803  the  1  8  missions  had  15,562  Indian  converts;  and  in  1831,  the  21 
missions  had  18,683  converts,  there  being  about  80,000  other  Indians  in  California.  After 
Mexico  became  independent  of  Spain,  in  1822,  her  statesmen  by  degrees  secularized  the 
Californias,  and  in  1840  the  missions  were  broken  up.  The  ruins  of  their  massive  churches 
and  cloisters,  in  simple  and  harmonious  architecture,  will  remain  for  centuries  as  memo- 
rials of  the  friars  who  designed  them,  and  the  Indians  who  erected  their  noble  pillars  and 
arches.  When  their  clergy  had  been  driven  away,  the  Mission  Indians  were  stripped  of 
their  lands  by  incoming  settlers,  and  gradually  fell  a  prey  to  the  vices  of  civilization.  Cali- 
fornia now  has  10,000  taxable  Indians,  and  5,000  more  on  reservations. 

At  first  a  department  of  Spain,  California  in  1776 
became  one  of  the  "Internal  Provinces,"  and  later  a 
part  of  the  Western  Province,  whose  capital  was  at 
Chihuahua  or  Arispe.  Afterwards  it  received  an  ad- 
ministration of  its  own,  with  Monterey  as  the  capital  ; 
and  here  Gov.  Pablo  Vicente  de  Sola  and  the  mili- 
tary and  ecclesiastical  heads  assembled  in  1822,  and 
resolved  that  California  should  no  longer  be  a  Spanish 
province,  but  should  cast  her  lot  with  Mexico.  Two 
years  later,  she  followed  Mexico  in  the  change  to  a 


MONTEREY  \  OLD  CUSTOM  HOUSE. 


SANTA  BARBARA  MISSION. 


THE  STA  TE  OF  CALIFORNIA. 


MEXICAN    BOUNDARY 
MONUMENT. 


republican  government,  and  became  a  Mexican  Territory,  ruled  by  a  Political 
Chief  or  Territorial  Deputation.      The  only  trade  between  California  and  the 
outside  world  was  monopolized  for  many  years  by  Boston,  whose  ships  made 
two-years'  voyages  hither,   laden   with  notions,    groceries  and  cotton- 
goods,  and  returning  with  furs,   hides  and  tallow.     It  was  their    cus- 
tom to  coast  along  from  port  to  port,  as  shown  in  Dana's  Two  Years 
Before  the  Mast.    The  New-England  whaling-ships  also  frequented  these 
ports,  and  many  of  their  sailors  settled  on  ranches,  with  native  wives. 

About  the  year  1845  there  were  a  few  adventurous  Anglo-Saxons  on 
the  coast,  and  west  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  perhaps  300  American  trap- 
pers and  pioneers.  It  was  believed  that  England  and  France  coveted 
the  Pacific  slope,  but  the  American  Government  (in  constant  communi- 
cation with  Consul  Larkin)  believed  that  the  Californians  would  peace- 
fully join  the  United  States.  In  1846  young  Capt.  Fremont,  U.  S.  A.,  and  Kit  Carson 
reached  California  overland,  on  a  scientific  expedition,  with  sixty-two  men,  and  were  driven 
into  Oregon  by  Gen.  Castro.  A  few  Americans  north  of  San-Francisco  Bay,  ignorant  of 
Larkin' s  negotiations,  and  stirred  up  by  false  rumors  that  they  were  to  be  attacked  by  the 
Californians,  rebelled  against  the  Mexican  Government,  and  hoisted  the  famous  Bear  Flag 
(now  preserved  by  the  Pioneer  Society),  showing  a  bear  on  a  white 
ground,  with  the  words  CALIFORNIA  REPUBLIC.  Fremont,  who  always 
claimed  that  he  was  obeying  instructions  received  from  the  United-States 
Government,  headed  a  battalion  of  riflemen  at  Sutler's  Fort ;  advanced  to 
Sonoma,  which  had  already  been  captured  by  the  American  insurgents,  with 
its  sixteen  cannon  ;  spiked  the  ten  guns  of  the  San-Francisco  presidio  ;  and 
started  with  1 60  mounted  rifles  in  pursuit  of  Gen.  Castro.  The  plans  of  Lar- 
kin and  Gen.  Vallejo,  looking  to  a  peaceful  cession,  now  ended.  July  7th, 
1846,  the  American  frigate  Savannah  captured  Monterey,  and  Com.  Sloat 
proclaimed  California  to  be  a  part  of  the  United  States ;  and  July  8th,  the 
Portsmouth  raised  the  Stars  and  Stripes  at  San  Francisco.  The  Congress  cap- 
tured Santa  Barbara ;  and  Stockton  drove  Castro  from  Los  Angeles  into 
Sonora.  But  the  South  soon  rose,  under  Gen.  Flores ;  recaptured  its  towns ; 
and  defeated  Kearney,  then  nearing  San  Diego  after  marching  across  the 
continent  from  St.  Louis.  Several  sharp  battles  were  fought  before  this 
MARSHALL  STATUE.  rising  was  quelled.  Meantime,  the  Mormon  Battalion,  Stevenson's  New- 
York  volunteers,  and  other  commands  had  entered  California,  and  made  it  secure. 

After  the  cession  of  this  region  to  the  United  States,  by  the  treaty  of  1848,  bitter  debates 
ensued  in  Congress,  as  to  the  introduction  of  slavery,  amid  which  the  people  assembled  (Sep- 
tember, 1849)  and  framed  a  constitution  excluding  slavery,  and  under  this  document  Cali- 
fornia was  admitted  as  a  State,  in  1850.  It  had  already  won  the  name  of  El  Dorado. 
January  24,  1848,  a  piece  of  native  gold  was  found  by  Marshall  at  Coloma.  California's 
dreamy  pastoral  life  was  over ;  and  by  the  close  of  the  year  miners  assailed  the  foot-hills, 
from  the  Tuolumne  to  the  Feather  River.  During  1849,  100,000  men  from  the  East  crossed 
the  plains  or  the  isthmus  of  Panama,  or  rounded  Cape  Horn,  *  to  seek 

the  land  of    gold.       Between    1850   and    1853,    $65,000,000    ^^  x      of  gold 

was   mined  each  year;  and  from  60,000  to   100,000  men  re-    {ffi         ^        £mk    mained 
at  work,  at  first  along  the  rivers,  whose  gravelly  beds 
and  bars  abounded  in  the  precious  yellow   metal, 
and  after  1851  in  the  hydraulic  mining  of  the  high 
gravels.     The  adventurers  and  free  outlaws  of  the  ^tHH^SL'm^f 
whole  world  flocked  to  the  new  Eldorado,  and  wild 
speculation,  gambling,   robbery,   murder  and  other 
evil  things  were  practiced  by  experts,   and  hardly  SANTA  CRUZ  .  MIS8ION  CHURCH. 


SAN    FRANCISCO  :     MISSION    DOLORES. 


72  KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED  STATES. 

hindered  by  law.  The  lynch  law  of  the  mines  culmi- 
nated in  the  famous  Vigilance  Committee.  May  14, 
1856,  an  ex-convict  and  politician,  James  P.  Casey, 
shot  down  in  a  San-Francisco  street  James  King  of 
William,  and  five  days  later  24  companies  of  the  Vigi- 
lance Committee  took  the  murderer  from  prison,  and 
tried  and  hung  him,  together  with  Cora,  another  male- 
factor. Gov.  Johnson  proclaimed  San  Francisco  to  be 
in  insurrection.  After  inflicting  condign  punishment  on 
several  bold  criminals,  and  banishing  and  frightening 
others  to  foreign  lands,  the  Vigilance  Committee  disbanded,  August  1 8,  1856,  making  a  sol- 
emn final  parade  of  5,137  armed  and  disciplined  troops,  with  3  batteries,  290  dragoons, 
and  33  companies  of  infantry.  The  overland  mail  began  to  run  in  1858,  and  crossed  from 
Placerville  to  Atchison  in  19  days.  The  pony  mail  commenced  its  trips  in  1860. 

When  the  late  civil  war  broke  out  California  had  a  Democratic  governor,  legislature, 
and  Congressional  delegation,  and  Albert  Sidney  Johnston  commanded  the  Military  Depart- 
ment of  the  Pacific.  Her  senators  had  said  that  if  civil  war  came,  California  would  side 
with  the  South,  or  set  up  for  herself.  But  the  loyalty  of  the  people  to  the  United  States, 
then  so  far  away  and  so  shattered,  was  quickly  announced  in  vast  and  enthusiastic  assem- 
blies, addressed  by  patriotic  orators.  Loyal  leagues  rose  all  over  the  State  and  the  few 

Southern  sympathizers  departed,  or  were  consigned  to 
the  fortress  of  Alcatraz.  The  United  States  declined 
California's  aid,  mainly  on  account  of  her  remoteness, 
but  she  raised  seven  regiments  in  1861,  sending  part 
of  them  East  by  steamship,  and  using  others  to  gar- 
rison the  forts  along  the  Pacific.  At  one  time,  the 
State  forwarded  $70x3,000  in  gold  to  the  Sanitary 
Commission.  Chinamen  have  poured  into  California 
ever  since  1850,  and  between  1852  and  1888  335,000 
Asiatics  arrived.  .The  prohibition  placed  by  the 
United- States  Government  upon  this  immigration  by 
sea,  drove  it  through  British  Columbia  and  Mexico, 
and  greatly  reduced  its  volume.  There  are  now  25,000  Chinamen  in  San  Francisco  alone, 
with  six  joss-houses,  two  theatres,  and  other  strange  Oriental  features.  The  progress  of 
California  since  the  war  has  been  marvellous,  and  challenges  the  attention  of  the  nation.  Yet 
it  has  not  been  without  reverses.  The  mining-stocks  listed  in  1875  at  $282,000,000  dropped 
within  six  years  to  $17,000,000.  Consolidated  Virginia  fell  from  $75,000,000  to  $1,000,000 
and  "California"  from  $84,000,000  to  $351,000. 

In  1886  the  "land  boom"  began  in  Southern  California,  where  hundreds  of  towns  were 
laid  out  and  built,  sometimes  on  desolate  mesas  or  along  the  verge  of  the  desert.  While  the 
tide  ran  full,  millions  of  Eastern  capital  and  thousands  of  immigrants  came  to  the  Pacific 
shores,  and  then  the  excessive  inflation  broke.  There 
are  now  sixty  towns  in  Los- Angeles  County  alone, 
with  79,350  town-lots,  and  an  aggregate  of  2,351 
inhabitants.  But  during  this  speculative  period, 
great  improvements  \vere  made,  and  there  can  be 
little  doubt  that  a  healthier  condition  of  the  real- 
estate  market  will  repopulate  the  deserted  villages 
and  re-fill  the  closed  hotels.  Recently  there  has 
been  some  talk  among  politicians  and  journalists  of 
erecting  a  new  State  called  Southern  California. 
But  El  Dorado  has  a  State  pride  rivalling  those  of  MONO  PLA|N 


LIFORNIAN    ROAD. 


THE   STATE   OF  CALIFORNIA. 


73 


MOUNT  WHITNEY. 


Massachusetts  and  Virginia,  and  its  people  will 
repulse  any  effort  at  dismembering  the  Common- 
wealth, which  is  the  largest  in  the  Republic,  except 
Texas. 

The  Name  of  this  great  State  was  the  inven- 
tion of  a  Spanish  novelist,  who  in  Las  Serguas  de 
Esplandian  (published  in  1510)  made  mention  of 
"the  great  island  of  California,  where  an  abund- 
ance of  gold  and  precious  stones  is  found."  Fan- 
ciful philologists  have  derived  the  meaning  of  the 
word  from  the  Spanish  calida  fornax,  or  caliente 
fornaza,  meaning  "a  hot  furnace,"  and  very  applicable  to  Lower  California.  The  pet 
names,  THE  LAND  OF  GOLD.  THE  GOLDEN  STATE  and  ELDORADO  are  of  obvious  origin. 

The  State  Seal  represents  Minerva,  who  sprung  full-grown  from  the  brain  of  Jupiter, 
as  California  entered  the  Union  as  a  State,  without  Territorial  probation.  She  is  seated  on  a 
rock,  with  helmet  and  corselet,  shield  and  spear.  At  her  feet  crouches  a  grizzly  bear ;  and 
beyond  a  miner  bends  to  work,  with  pick,  rocker,  and  bowl.  The  Sacramento  River 
widens  out,  bearing  ships,  typifying  commercial  greatness ;  and  in  the  background  the  sun 
appears,  and  the  great  Sierra  Nevada.  The  motto 
is  EUREKA,  a  Greek  word  meaning  "  I  have  found  it." 
The  Governors  included  ten  Spanish  Dons, 
from  1767  to  1822,  and  twelve  Mexicans,  from  1822 
to  1846.  Then  followed  the  era  of  United-States 
military  governors,  Sloat,  Stockton,  Fremont,  Kear- 
ney, Mason,  and  Riley.  The  governors  of  the  State 
have  been:  Peter  H.  Burnett,  1849-51;  John 
McDougall,  1851-2;  John  Bigler,  1852-6;  J.  Neely 
Johnson,  1856-8;  John  B.  Weller,  1858-60;  Milton 
S.  Latham,  1860 ;  John  G.  Downey,  1860-2 ;  Le- 
land  Stanford,  1862-3;  Frederick  F.  Low,  1863-7; 
Henry  H.  Haight,  1867-71;  Newton  Booth,  1871-5;  Romualdo  Pacheco,  1875;  William 
Irwin,  1875-80;  Geo.  C.  Perkins,  1880-3;  George  Stoneman,  1883-7;  Washington  Bart- 
lett,  1887;  R.  W.  Waterman,  1887-91;  and  H.  H.  Markham,  1891-5. 

Descriptive. —  California  is  770  miles  long,  and  from  150  to  330  miles  wide,  with  more 
than  double  the  area  of  New  England.  The  coast-line  equals  the  distance  from  Cape  Cod 
to  Charleston,  S.  C.  The  State  fronts  along  the  Pacific  coast 
for  over  1,000  miles.  North  of  40°  is  a  wild  and  mountainous 
land,  covered  with  stupendous  forests.  South  of  35°  much  of 
the  State  is  an  unmitigated  desert  of  arid  mountains  and 
sunken  plains.  Central  California,  between  35°  and  40°,  has 
one  third  of  the  State's  area.  Prof.  Whitney  divides  this 
region  into  four  equal  sections,  by  lines  55  miles  apart.  The 
Pacific  is  the  first  line,  between  which  and  the  second  lie 
the  Coast  Ranges.  The  Great  Valley  is  the  strip  next  to  the 
eastward,  ending  at  a  line  drawn  from  Visalia  to  Red  Bluff. 
East  of  this  the  Sierra  extends  to  the  line  drawn  from  Shasta 
to  Mount  Whitney ;  and  then  the  eastern  slope  falls  away  to 
the  Great  Basin.  The  State  is  traversed  by  the  Sierra  Nevada 
and  the  Coast  Range,  which  interlock  on  the  north  and  the 
south,  between  which  extremes  they  swing  wide  apart,  and 
enclose  the  Great  Valley. 
CATHEDRAL  SPIRES.  The  Sierra  Nevada  is  the  most  majestic  mountain  range  in 


MOUNT  SHASTA. 


74  KING^S   HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

the  United  States,  covering  a  length  of  600  miles,  from  Mount  San  Jacinto  to  Mount 
Shasta  (or  430  miles  from  the  Tahichipi  Pass  to  Lassen's  Peak),  and  a  breadth  of  from  75 
to  100  miles,  with  long  and  gradual  slopes  on  the  west,  cut  by  deep  canons.  The  most 
imposing  scenery  is  towards  the  south,  where  Mount  Whitney  and  its  alpine  brethren  lift 
their  majestic  granite  spires.  The  delightful  summer  climate  of  California  favors  pleasure- 
travel  in  the  Sierra,  where  the  days  are  mild  and  rainless,  and  the  air  soft  and  clear. 
Thousands  of  tourists  haunt  the  high  valleys  and  lakes,  encamping  at  great  altitudes  with- 
out discomfort,  and  unvexed  by  the  wild  storms  and  long  rains  which  visit  the  Swiss  Alps. 
Prof.  Whitney  remarks  that  the  Alps  would  resemble  the  Sierra  if  most  of  their  glaciers 
were  melted  away.  The  long  grassy  slopes  leading  up  to  the  Swiss  glaciers  are  replaced  in 
California  by  vast  forests,  sweeping  up  to  the  snow-line.  At  the  headwaters  of  King's 
River,  the  Sierra  Nevada  forks  into  two  ridges,  running  southward,  and  separated  by  the 
tremendous  Kern-River  Canon.  The  main  peaks  of  the  eastern  range  are  Mounts  Kear- 
sarge,  Tyndall,  Williamson,  and  Whitney.  Those  of  the  western  range  are  Mounts  King, 
Gardner,  and  Brewer,  and  Kaweeah  Peak.  Mount  Whitney  is  the  highest  peak  in  the 
United  States,  outside  of  Alaska,  and  was  discovered  by  Brewer,  Hoffman,  and  Clarence 
King,  in  1864,  and  named  for  the  State  Geologist  of  California  (now  Prof.  J.  D.  Whitney, 
of  Harvard  University).  The  first  ascent  took  place  in  1873.  The  height  is  14,522  feet 
(Langley's  measurement),  14,887  feet  (Clarence  King),  or  14,8987  (Goodyear). 

The  main  peaks  in  the  central  Sierra  Nevada  pass  13,000  feet  in  height,  and  include 
the  lonely  Mounts  Ritter  and  Maclure ;  Mount  Lyell's  sharp  and  inaccessible  pinnacle  of 
granite,  shooting  up  from  a  white  waste  of  snow ;  Mount  Starr  King,  a  steep  granite  cone ; 
Mount  Conness,  approached  by  a  perilous  knife-blade  ridge ;  and  Mount  Hoffman,  front- 
ing the  south  with  amazing  granite  cliffs.  Mount  Dana's  peak  of  red  and  green  slate  is 
often  visited  from  Mono  Pass,  and  thence  the  traveller  may  look  out  over  hundreds  of 
leagues  of  granite  domes  and  snowy  peaks  and  volcanic  cones,  with  Mono  Lake  in  the  deep 
valley  below. 

The  Yosemite  Valley  is  3,950  feet  high,  on  the  Sierra,  hemmed  in  by  nearly  vertical 
cliffs;  and  covers  36,011  acres,  which  Congress  granted  to  California,  in  1864,  to  be  held 
as  a  State  park.  The  Yosemite  Fall  descends  2,600  feet  in  three  sections,  one  of  which  is 
of  1,500  feet,  vertical.  There  are  also  wonderful  cascades  on  the  Merced  River,  which 
flows  through  the  valley ;  and  the  exquisite  Bridal-Veil  Falls  stripe  the  cliffs  near  Cathe- 
dral Rock  with  a  lace-like  white  band  900  feet  high,  swaying,  veil-like,  in  the  wind.  No 
words  can  portray  the  stupendous  rock,  El  Capitan,  a  block  of  bare  granite  3, 300  feet 
high,  and  visible  for  50  miles  out  on  the  plains  ;  or  the  fantastic  and  colossal  rock -carvings 
of  the  Spires,  and  the  Royal  Arches,  and  Sentinel  Rock;  or  the  astonishing  Half  Dome, 
with  its  vertical  cliffs  1,500  feet  high.  This  gigantic  trough,  hollowed  a  mile  deep  in  the 
mountains,  recessed,  buried  in  woods,  jewelled  with  silvery  falls,  and  overlooked  by  enor- 
mous domes  of  rock,  is  one  of  the  grandest  of  all  Nature's  temples,  with  features  of  sub- 
limity and  beauty  unequalled  by  any  other  mountain-valley  in  the  world.  Yosemite  is  an 
Indian  word,  meaning  Grizzly  Bear.  The  neighboring  Hetch-Hetchy  Valley  has  many 
resemblances  to  the  Yosemite,  and  heads  into  the  great  gorge  of  the  Tuolumne  River,  which 
falls  4,650  feet  within  a  score  of  miles,  between  cliffs  a  thousand  feet  high.  The  Carson 
and  Johnson  Passes,  near  Lake  Tahoe,  were  the  ancient  freight-routes  to  Nevada.  From 
this  point  for  160  miles  south  there  are  but  five  passes  with  trails  across,  two  of  them  being 
near  the  head  of  the  San  Joaquin,  and  traversed  only  by  Indians.  The  Kearsarge  Pass,  the 
highest  in  the  State,  crosses  the  great  range  three  leagues  north  of  Mount  Tyndall,  12,000 
feet  above  the  sea,  amid  wonderful  rock  scenery.  The  Mono  Pass,  30  miles  east  of  the 
Yosemite  Valley,  and  10,765  feet  high,  is  traversed  by  many  tourists  on  the  way  to  the 
ashy  volcanic  region  of  Mono  Lake,  amid  lofty  snowy  peaks,  glacier  lakes,  and  falling 
streams.  Bloody  Canon  leads  eastward  from  the  summit  of  the  pass  to  the  Mono  plain. 
The  counties  of  Mono  and  Inyo  lie  between  the  granite  spires  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  and 


THE  STATE   OF  CALIFORNIA. 


YOSEMITE   VALLEY   GROUP. 


7  6  KING^S   HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

the  craggy  Inyo  Range,  each  of  them  rising  10,000 
feet  above  the  wonderfully  picturesque  valley, 
down  which  Owen's  River  flows,  to  sink  in  the 
dead  sea  of  Owen's  Lake.  Forty  miles  eastward, 
across  several  parallel  chains  of  mountains,  and 
between  the  Panamint  and  Amargosa  Ranges,  the 
Amargosa  River  sinks  into  Death  Valley  (where  a 
party  of  immigrants  once  starved  to  death),  150 
feet  below  the  sea,  an  alkaline  desert  in  summer, 
CONNER  LAKE.  an(j  &  mud.flat  in  wmter.  The  Amargosa  and 

Funeral  Mountains  lie  east  of  Death  Valley.     The  Inyo  Range  is  lonelier  than  the  Sierra, 
and  forms  with  the  White  Mountains  a  continuous  chain  of  100  rnftes  long. 

As  the  Sierra  goes  northward  it  broadens  and  loses  elevation,  and  where  the  Central 
Pacific  Railroad  crosses,  it  sinks  to  7,000  feet.  Lassen's  Peak,  a  volcanic  cone  10,537  feet 
high,  dominates  the  valleys  of  the  north.  Seventy  miles  northwest  rises  the  magnificent 
snowy  cone  of  Mount  Shasta,  14,440  feet  high,  visible  for  more  than  a  hundred  miles. 
Jets  of  steam  and  sulphurous  gases  emerging  from  Shasta  recall  former  volcanic  activity. 
The  seven  counties,  Lassen,  Shasta,  Trinity,  Humboldt,  Del  Norte,  Siskiyou,  and  Modoc, 
north  of  the  great  valley,  include  a  vast  and  thinly-populated  country,  rough  and  moun- 
tainous, with  dry  and  barren  volcanic  plains  and  lava-beds  in  the  east,  and  the  Siskiyou, 
Salmon,  and  Scott  Ranges  in  the  west.  Humboldt  has  700  square  miles  of  redwood  for- 
ests, in  which  a  score  of  sawmills  are  making  slow  inroads. 

The  Coast  Ranges  form  a  vast  assemblage  of  mountains,  following  the  ocean-shore  for 
over  400  miles,  with  almost  treeless  and  waterless  eastern  slopes,  and  large  streams  and 
dense  forests  on  their  misty  and  rocky  flanks  toward  the  Pacific.  This  highland  region, 
from  2,ooo  to  4,500  feet  in  altitude,  and  40  to  70  miles  in  breadth,  stretches  from  the  iron- 
bound  sea-coast  to  the  Great  Valley ;  and  contains  many  beautiful  arable  glens,  dotted  with 
graceful  clumps  of  oaks,  and  overlooked  by  higher  expanses  of  chapparal  and  the  bare 
peaks  of  the  range.  The  tributary  ranges  are  numbered  by  scores,  especially  in  the  south, 
where  rise  the  Cuyamarca  Mountains,  whose  chief  peak  looks  into  Mexico  and  out  to  sea ; 
the  San-Gabriel  Mountains,  running  from  the  Cajon  Pass  to  the  Los- Angeles  River ;  and 
the  Santa-Ynez  and  Santa-Monica  Ranges.  The  Santa-Lucia,  San-Rafael,  and  San-Ber- 
nardino Ranges  form  an  almost  continuous  chain  several  hundred  miles  long.  The  Sierra 
Nevada  and  the  Coast  Range  are  cross-connected  by  the  Tejon  Mountains  and  the  Sierra 
Madre,  under  various  names,  overlooking  the  valleys  of  Los  Angeles.  Los-Angeles 
County  is  two  thirds  the  size  of  Massachusetts,  and  lies  in  the  latitude  of  North  Caro- 
lina, in  a  climate-producing  at  once  palms  and  bananas,  apples 
and  grapes,  with  roses  blooming  in  winter,  and  summers 
cooler  than  in  the  Eastern  cities.  It  includes  a  great  series  | 
of  valleys,  falling  from  the  Sierra  Madre's  snow-crested  laby- 
rinths of  canons  and  ridges,  40  miles  wide,  to  the  blue  waters 
of  the  Pacific. 

One  of  the  chief  features  of  the  view  from  the  San-Fran- 
cisco region  is  the  Contra-Costa  hills,  running  from  the  Strait 
of  Carquinez  to  Mount  Hamilton,  where  it  meets  the  Mount- 
Diablo  Range.  Mount  Diablo's  double-pointed  crest,  3,856 
feet  high,  is  a  famous  landmark,  and  overlooks  the  Great  Val- 
ley, the  open  sea,  and  the  line  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  for  300 
miles.  Mount  Tamalpais,  north  of  the  Golden  Gate,  may  be 
ascended  by  a  carriage-road  from  the  San-Rafael  Valley,  and 
commands  a  wonderful  view.  Mount  St.  Helena,  a  flat-top- 
ped extinct  volcano,  towers  above  the  head  of  Napa  Valley. 


YOSEMITE    FALLS. 


THE  STATE   OF  CALIFORNIA. 


77 


DEVIL'S    CANON. 


The  Great  Valley  has  a  level  ground  of  450  miles 
long  and  40  miles  wide,  covering  18,000  square  miles. 
This  huge  elliptical  basin  is  drained  by  the  Sacra- 
mento and  San-Joaquin  Rivers,  the  former  flowing 
southward  320  miles  from  beyond  Mount  Shasta, 
and  the  San-Joaquin  pouring  northward  260  miles 
from  Kern  Lake.  The  Sacramento  receives  the 
Feather,  American,  Yuba  and  other  rivers  from  the 
Sierra  Nevada ;  and  is  navigable  for  steamboats  for 
90  miles,"to  Sacramento,  and  for  smaller  steamers 
to  Red  Bluff,  1 60  miles  farther.  The  San-Joaquin 
rises  in  the  high  Sierra,  and  enters  the  Great  Valley  at  Millerton.  It  is  navigable  for 
steamboats  as  far  as  Stockton,  and  smaller  boats  can  ascend  to  Tulare  Lake.  The  united 
Sacramento  and  San-Joaquin  enter  the  shallow  Suisun  Bay,  and  flow  between  its  low  tule- 
covered  islands  into  San-Pablo  Bay,  an  expansion  of  San-Francisco  Bay. 

Lake  Tahoe  lies  on  the  Sierra,  6, 247  feet  above  the  sea,  abounding  in  fine  trout,  and 
with  deep  waters  of  exceptional  purity  and  coldness.  Mark  Twain  calls  it  "A  sea  in 
the  clouds,  whose  royal  seclusion  is  guarded  by  a  cordon  of  sentinel  peaks  that  lift  their 
frosty  fronts  9,000  feet  above  the  level  world."  Tahoe  is  22  by  ten  miles  in  area.  Near 
by,  the  beautiful  expanse  of  Donner  Lake  recalls  a  terrible  tragedy  of  1846-7.  The  Truckee 
River  runs  from  Tahoe  to  Pyramid  Lake,  which  has  no  outlet.  Mono  Lake,  with  its  cen- 
tral cluster  of  volcanic  islands,  and  its  odd-looking  masses  of  tufa  along  the  shores,  covers 
an  area  of  14  by  nine  miles,  with  the  Sierra  Nevada  towering  over  its  crater-pitted  plain 
on  one  side,  and  the  frowning  Inyo  Range  on  the  other.  The  intensely  bitter  and  salty 
waters  of  this  California!!  Dead  Sea  are  almost  devoid  of  life. 

Tulare  Lake  receives  the  waters' of  King's  River  and  the  Sierra  between  its  low  and  reedy 
banks,  pouring  down  into  the  San-Joaquin  in  wet  weather,  and  in  dry  times  evaporating. 
Above  are  Lake  Buena- Vista  and  Kern  Lake.  All  these  lakes  have  grown  much  smaller 
and  salter  within  ten  years,  as  a  result  of  irrigating  canals  taking  away  the  water  from  the 
inflowing  rivers.  Tulare  has  lost  nearly  three  fourths  of  its  area,  and  settlers'  claims  fol- 
low the  receding  waters.  One  may  wade  out  for  a  mile,  without  getting  more  than  knee- 
deep,  to  the  hundreds  of  small  islands  and  bunches  of  tule,  the  homes  of  millions  of  white 
birds  of  the  gull  species.  Into  Owen's  Lake,  Owen's  River  sinks  and  disappears.  It  has 
been  falling  for  many  years,  and  growing  more  bitter  and  poisonous.  It  covers  about  120 
square  miles. 

Goose  Lake  covers  200  square  miles,  and  contains  many  fish.  Near  the  immense 
areas  of  sage-brush  on  the  Madeline  Plains,  the  bright  waters  of  Honey  Lake  glimmer 
over  nearly  a  hundred  square  miles,  in  the  wet  season,  and  sink  into  a  mud-hole  later.  A 
few  leagues  distant  is  the  deep  and  crystalline  Eagle  Lake,  shadowed  by  sombre  wooded 
mountains.  About  75  miles  north  of  San  Francisco,  Clear  Lake  flashes  among  the  high 
hills,  for  a  length  of  25  miles,  with  an  average  width  of  six  miles,  and  a  deep  and  crystal 
tide,  the  home  of  myriads  of  fish.  Uncle- Sam 
Mountain  pushes  its  sandstone  cliffs  far  out  into 
the  lake,  forming  the  Narrows.  Along  the 
shores,  vineyards  blossom  and  pretty  villas  gleam 
among  the  trees ;  and  a  steamboat  plies  up  and 
down  from  many-mounded  Lakeport  to  the 
bright  village  of  Lower  Lake. 

The  Californian  coast  finds  its  chief  haven 
in  the  noble  Bay  of  San  Francisco,  50  by 
nine  miles  in  area,  sheltered  by  two  peninsulas 
from  seven  to  15  miles  across,  between  whose  SIERRA  MADRE;  FROM  PA8ADENA. 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE   UNITED  STATES. 


MONTEREY:  HOTEL  DEL  MONTE. 

ends  opens  the  strait  of  the  Golden 
Gate,  400  feet  deep,  and  four  miles 
long.  On  the  northern  coast  are 
Tomales  Bay  and  Bodega  Bay. 
Humboldt  Bay,  in  the  remoter 
north,  has  40  miles  of  land-locked 
tidal  area,  entered  by  a  narrow  channel  between  roaring  breakers.  South  of  San  Fran- 
cisco open  the  harbors  of  Monterey,  San  Luis  Obispo,  Santa  Barbara,  and  San  Diego, 
the  latter  of  which  is  twelve  miles  long,  and  completely  landlocked.  Six  light-houses 
beacon  San-Francisco  Bay,  and  seven  shine  out  along  the  northern  coast.  The  light-house 
on  St. -George's  Reef,  Northwest  Seal  Rock,  is  one  of  the  most  remarkable  in  the  world, 
rising,  as  it  does,  from  a  wave-swept  rock  far  out  in  the  sea.  It  cost  above  $800,000. 
The  coast  south  of  San  Francisco  has  eleven  light-houses,  of  which  that  on  Point  Loma, 
near  San  Diego,  is  the  highest  in  the  Republic.  Eight  leagues  seaward  of  San  Francisco 
rise  the  rocky  islets  of  the  Farallones,  one  of  which  towers  340  feet  above  the  waves,  and 
upholds  a  first-class  light-house,  with  a  powerful  Fresnel  light. 

Midway  on  the  coast  of  California,  about  125  miles  south  of  San  Francisco,  is  one  of  the  mar- 
vels of  the  continent.  It  is  the  Hotel  Del  Monte,  at  Monterey,  opened  in  1 880,  and  now  hardly 
equalled  by  any  of  the  sea-shore  resorts  of  the  world,  while  in  many  respects  it  far  surpasses 
all  others.  The  building  exemplifies  the  Gothic  style  of  architecture,  and  is  of  enorrrfous  size, 
and  equipped  with  every  modern  comfort  and  luxury.  The  great  surrounding  park  shows  the 
very  perfection  of  landscape  gardening,  with  avenues  winding  between  lines  of  venerable 
live-oaks  and  pines,  beds  of  rich  flowers  and  tall  cacti,  down  to  the  sandy  shores  of  Mon- 
terey Bay,  where  there  is  a  very  complete  bathing  establishment,  divided  into  four  great 
salt-water  tanks,  heated  by  steam  to  different  temperatures.  The  beauty  of  the  coast  and 
mountain-scenery  around  Monterey,  the  abiding  interest  of  the  old  capital  of  California 
under  Spanish  domination,  and  the  serene  delight  of  the  climate,  have  made  this  locality  a 
favorite  pleasure-resort  for  all  seasons  (for  in  this  equable  climate  there  are  but  a  few 
degrees  of  difference  between  July  and  January). 
The  charges  for  accommodation  at  this  famous  re- 
sort are  very  moderate,  and  the  extra  cost  of  a  trip 
to  California  is  more  than  counterbalanced  by  the 
difference  in  rates  at  the  various  well-known  resorts 
of  the  United  States  and  Europe  and  this  incom- 
parable hotel.  This  superb  establishment,  with  its 
leagues  of  neighboring  beaches,  its  acres  of  roses  and 
violets  and  heliotropes,  the  mingled  perfumes  of  pine- 
trees  and  salt  waves,  and  the  lovely  and  healing  cli- 
mate, has  been  visited  and  enjoyed  by  the  foremost  CAMULOS  .  TH£  HOME  OF  RAMONA- 


THE  STATE   OF  CALIFORNIA. 


79 


SANTA    BARBARA. 


American  and  European  travellers,  all  of  whom 
have  been  enthusiastic  in  its  praise.  The  hotel 
property  consists  of  7,  OCX)  acres  of  land,  compris- 
ing the  Monterey  peninsula,  through  which  have 
been  constructed  finely  macadamized  roadways, 
including  the  celebrated  Eighteen- Mile  Drive, 
leading  from  the  Del  Monte  around  the  coast- 
line, by  the  cypress  groves  and  Carmel  Bay,  and 
back  to  the  house.  The  hotel  company  also  con- 
trols the  great  summer-resort  of  Pacific  Grove, 
between  Monterey  and  Point  Pinos,  with  its  El  Carmelo  hotel  and  surrounding  cottages 
and  villas,  where  upwards  of  5,000  people  pass  their  happy  summers. 

The  beautiful  Valley  of  Santa  Clara  is  one  of  the  most  attractive  and  interesting  regions 
of  California,  very  accessible  to  San  Francisco  and  the  sea,  and  yet  with  all  the  charms  of 
the  fairest  rural  regions  of  the  Golden  State.  The  climate  is  one  of  the  best  in  the  world, 
almost  semi-tropical  in  its  softness,  and  tempered  by  bracing  and  salubrious  trade-winds 
from  the  Pacific.  Every  one  who  visits  the  Lick  Observatory  goes  by  way  of  San  Jose, 
and  in  order  to  accommodate  these  visitors,  and  also  many  people  entering  the  Santa-Clara 
region  in  search  of  health  and  beauty,  the  great  Hotel  Vendome  has  been  erected, 
in  the  centre  of  a  beautiful  park  of  twelve  acres,  at  San  Jose,  planted  with  the  choicest 
shrubbery  and  trees,  a  quarter  of  a  century  ago,  by  one  of  the  pioneers  of  California.  Ris- 
ing from  the  midst  of  this  magnificent  estate, 
stands  the  hotel,  provided  with  every  modern  im- 
provement, a  favorite  both  as  a  summer  and  as  a 
winter  resort,  and  the  permanent  home  of  wealthy 
families.  Every  convenience  and  facility  is  afforded 
here  for  people  on  their  way  to  and  from  the  famous 
Lick  Observatory  and  the  many  other  points  of  in- 
terest in  this  wonderful  fruit-growing  valley. 

Santa  Cruz,  with  its  fine  beach  and  picturesque 
mountains,  is  rich  in  singular  rock-formations  ;  and 
near  it  rises  a  historic  group  of  huge  redwood 
trees.  Santa  Monica,  on  its  beautiful  bay,  upon  which  the  Sierra  Santa  Monica  looks  down, 
is  a  well-known  pleasure-resort ;  and  farther  down  the  coast  Long  Beach,  Del  Mar,  Ocean- 
side,  San  Juan-by-the  Sea,  and  other  popular  beaches  afford  recreation-ground  for  thou- 
sands, with  surf-bathing  all  winter. 

Off  the  southern  coast,  from  20  to  60  miles  in  the  ocean,  lie  eight  islands,  rising  from 
the  blue  sea  to  mountainous  heights,  and  bearing  melodious  old  Spanish  names.  One  of 
them  has  a  quaint  little  village  and  harbor ;  three  or  four  are  inhabited  by  myriads  of  sheep, 
with  solitary  shepherds ;  and  others  know  only  the  sounds  of  multitudinous  sea-birds  and 
the  seals  and  sea-otter  that  clamber  over  their  rocky  shores.  When  dark  fogs  brood  over 
the  mainland,  these  islands  bask  under  a  deep  azure  sky,  and  listen  to  the  ceaseless  roar- 
ing of  the  Pacific.  Santa  Catalina,  a  score  of  miles 
long,  attains  a  height  of  3,000  feet  and  may  be  seen 
from  Los  Angeles,  40  miles  away.  Its  beautiful 
marine  scenery  and  bracing  air  have  attracted  many 
summer  visitors,  in  the  hotel,  and  in  camps  along  the 
shore.  Santa  Cruz,  ascending  1,700  feet  into  the  clear 
sea-air,  is  the  home  of  myriads  of  sheep.  Santa 
Rosa  has  42  miles  of  coast-line,  with  bold  and  noble 
HH  highlands,  and  a  great  product  of  wool. 
AN  JOSE  ;  THE  ALAMEDA.  The  waters  of  California  abound  in  valuable  fish, 


SAN    JOSE:    HOTEL   VENDOMc. 


8o 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 


MONTEREY  :  CYPRESS  POINT. 


and  the  State  Board  of  Fish  Commissioners  maintains  hatcheries, 
dams,  fish-ways  and  patrol  boats.     The  streams  have  been  stocked 
with  black  bass,  trout  and  shad,  and  sturgeon  and  salmon  abound 
in  the  rivers.     There  are  plenty  'of  rockfish  and  torn- 
cod,  turbot  and  sole,  and  the  delicate-flavored  barra- 
couta.      The  bay-shores  yield  small  oysters  and  clams, 
muscles  and  shrimp,  lobsters  and  crabs.     The  deep- 
sea  fisheries  employ  3,000  men,  in  50  vessels  and  900 
boats,  with  a  product  of  $11,000,000  a  year,  in  cod, 
halibut,  whale  oil  and  bone.     The  fishing-banks  swarm 
with  food-fish ;  and  the  fleet  also  cruises  northward  to 
Bering  Sea.     The  spoils  of  the  deep  include  also  seals 
and  sea-otter.     There  are  salmon  canneries  on  the  Sac- 
ramento, and  also  on  Eel  and  Smith  Rivers. 

The  valleys  of  the  Coast  Range,  Napa,  Sonoma,  Petaluma,  and  Russian- River,  on  the 
north,  and  many  others  on  the  south,  of  San  Francisco,  are  full  of  rich  pastoral  beauty. 
Nowhere  is  one  out  of  sight  of  high  foot-hills  or  mountain-ranges,  which  nobly  diversify 
the  scenery.  In  the  farther  south,  hundreds  of  agricultural  colonies  have  settled  in  the 
valleys  within  a  few  leagues  of  the  sea,  and  begun  irrigation-works,  and  the  cultivation  of 
fruits.  The  oldest  of  the  colonies  is  Anaheim,  founded  by  Germans  in  1857,  and  now  rich 
in  2, 500,000  grape-vines  and  90,000  sheep.  Riverside,  Ontario,  Pomona,  Glendale,  Ocean- 
side,  Fallbrook,  El  Cajon,  Colton  and  other  towns  have  risen  rapidly,  of  late,  in  this 
favored  corner  of  the  world. 

In  the  southeast  the  barren  sands  and  scanty  vegetation  of  the  Mohave  and  Colorado 
Deserts  cover  thousands  of  square  miles,  in  some  x^^^.r\  localities  350  feet  below 
the  level  of  the  sea.  This  unvisited  land  resembles  ,v^^HHnk\\  the  Nubian  desert  in  its 
loneliness  and  its  weird  colors  and  shapes ;  and  the  Kl 
Colorado  is  its  Nile.  Black  and  purple  mountains  " 
loom  high  above  leagues  of  white  sand  and  alkaline 
flats;  and  the  lowest  levels  are  diversified  by  mud 
volcanoes,  where  continuous  streams  of  hot  water 
and  gas  escape  from  the  soft  mud. 

The  scenic  wonders  of  El  Dorado  include  also 
the  natural  bridges  on  Hay  Fork  of  Trinity,  and  on 

Coyote  Creek,  in  Tuolumne  County ;  Bower  Cave,  in  Mariposa ;  the  Alabas- 
ter Cave,  in  Placer;  the  petrified  forest  of  great  trees,   discovered  in  1870,  north  of  San 
Francisco  ;  and  the  lava  beds  and  mountains  of  marble. 

The  Climate. — The  State  Board  of  Health  finds  in  California  two  climates,  that  of 
the  sea,  with  low  and  even  temperature  and  cold  damp  winds ;  and  that  of  the  land,  hot 
and  dry.  The  valleys  around  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco  enjoy  a  delightful  blending  of  the 
land  and  sea  air.  The  rapid  changes  in  San  Francisco  almost  justify  the  humorous  remark 
that  the  proper  costume  to  wear  there  is  a  linen  duster  with  a  fur  collar.  The  damp  day- 
winds  rush  from  the  Pacific  through  the  gaps  in  the  Coast  Range,  to  replace  the  dry  and 
heated  inland  atmosphere ;  and  vast  currents  of  cold  and  bracing  air  sweep  through  the 
Golden  Gate,  to  spread  out  in  a  fan-shape  up  the  Sacramento  and  San-Joaquin  Valleys.  Thus 
comes  some  mitigation  of  the  fierce  inland  heats,  which  at  times  reach  IIO°,  but  are  never 

attended  by  sun-strokes.     At  night  the  breeze 
dies,  the  cool  mountain-air  descends,  and  San 
^H  Francisco  sleeps  in  a  light  mist  from  the  ocean. 
"'--    The  climate  is  divided  into  the  dry  and  the 
rainy  seasons,  and  these  differ,  from  the  love- 
SAN  FRANCISCO  :  ALCATRAZ  ISLAND.  ty  springlike  winters  of  the  northern  counties 


NATURAL    BRIDGE. 

ARCH    ROCK. 

MONUMENT    ROCK. 


THE  STATE   OF  CALIFORNIA. 


81 


COLORADO    RIVER  :     THE    NEEDLES    BRIDGE. 


to  the  almost  rainless  years  of  the  Colo- 
rado Valley,  and  also  from  season  to 
season,  so  that  the  perilous  inundations 
of  one  year  may  be  followed  by  pro. 
longed  droughts.  The  Sierra  retains  its 
snows  the  year  through,  and  the  remote 
mining  towns  endure  an  Alpine  climate.  The  region  of  Klamath  Lake  sometimes  has 
several  weeks  of  sleighing ;  but  the  coast  and  the  valleys  see  little  snow.  The  rainy  sea- 
son is  spring-like,  and  has  many  calm  and  sunny  days,  being  the  most  agreeable  part  of 
the  year.  June,  July,  August,  and  September  are  singularly  dry  months.  In  an  average 
Californian  year  there  are  220  days  perfectly  clear,  85  cloudy,  and  60  rainy.  During  the 
long  rainless  and  dewless  summer,  everything  turns  brown  and  sear,  the  ground  wrinkles 
and  cracks,  and  the  air  grows  dusty.  The  rich  green  of  Eastern  landscapes  is  seen  here 
only  in  winter  and  early  spring.  The  heat  of  the  summers  is  largely  tempered  by  the  clear- 
ness and  dryness  of  the  air,  which  favor  radiation.  The  climate  is  much  milder  and  more 
uniform  than  that  of  the  other  States  in  the  same  latitude,  with  summers  whose  mean  tem- 
perature (60°)  is  within  four  degrees  of  the  mean  of  the  year.  The  warm  dry  winter  air 
and  bracing  west  winds  of  the  southern  counties  are  favorable  for  alleviating  diseases  of  the 

throat  and  lungs.  Although  much  farther  south,  this 
region  does  not  suffer  from  the  great  heat  of  the  Sacra- 
mento Valley,  owing  to  its  strong  sea-winds  and  cool- 
ing fogs.  The  rainfall  mainly  comes  during  the  nights 
of  January,  February,  and  March.  The  mean  average 
winter  temperature  of  Santa  Barbara  is  55° ;  of  Men- 
tone,  48.6°;  of  San  Remo,  49.9°.  Their  tempera- 
tures in  spring  are,  respectively,  58.3°,  57-4°,  and 
57.3°;  in  summer,  65. 1°,  73.3°,  and  72.4°;  inautumn, 
61.9°,  62.3°,  and  61.9°.  The  winters  at  Santa  Bar- 
bara are  warmer,  and  the  summers  cooler,  than  those 
of  the  famous  Mediterranean  health-resorts.  The  ac- 
curate and  careful  meteorological  reports  show  but  one  night  on  record  when  a  frost  touched 
Santa  Barbara  (28.5°).  In  the  ten  years,  1878-87,  the  thermometer  at  Los  Angeles  rose 
above  100°  but  seven  times,  and  fell  below  the  freezing  point  six  times.  The  rainless  south- 
east is  extremely  hot,  the  mean  of  Fort  Yuma  being  76°,  and  the  thermometer  ranging 
between  90°  and  100°,  night  and  day,  for  weeks  at  a  time.  The  gloomy  Colorado  Desert 
is  swept  by  frequent  sand-storms.  The  Great  Valley  is  hotter  in  summer  than  the  coast, 
and  also  40°  colder  in  winter,  on  account  of  the  huge  snowy  wall  of  the  Sierra.  Earth- 
quakes have  visited  California  many  times.  In  1812  the  missions  of  La  Purisima  and  San 
Juan  Capistrano  were  destroyed,  with  many  people,  .and  a  huge  tidal  wave  swept  inland 
over  Santa  Barbara.  For  months  of  1872  the  Sierra  was  agitated  by  earthquakes,  which 
threw  down  great  granite  peaks,  and  opened  cracks  in  the  ground ;  and  30  persons  were 
killed  and  100  wounded. 

Agriculture. — Many  of  the  farms  of  California  are  on  a  grand 
scale.  A  rainy  autumn  is  followed  by  plowing  and  sowing  in  No- 
vember, and  copious  latter  rains  in  March  and  April  ensure  noble 
harvests  in  June  and  July.  The  cereal,  hay,  and  root  crops  of  Cal- 
ifornia are  valued  at  $70,000,000  yearly.  Vast  areas,  occupied  by 
iarid  deserts,  cannot  be  farmed,  and  much  even  of  the  Great  Valley 
requires  irrigation.  Millions  of  dollars  have  been  invested  in  irri- 
gation, in  the  south,  and  the  fair  green  tides  of  cultivated  vegeta- 
tion are  already  advancing  on  the  Mohave  Desert,  and  flowing  over 
the  red  mesas  of  San  Bernardino.  Southern  California,  the  scene  CALISTOGA:  PETRIFIED  FOREST. 


82  KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE   UNITED   STATES. 

of  a  phenomenal  growth  in  recent  years,  is  one 
of  the  gardens  of  the  world,  and  as  fast  as  water 
can  be  led  to  its  rich  lands,  all  the  valuable 
fruits  and  cereals  of  the  temperate  zone  and  the 
tropics  alike  are  reaped. 

The  California  wheat  is  mainly  Chilian  and 
Australian,  commanding  very  high  prices,  and 
largely  exported  to  England.  The  wheat-crop 
reaches  33,000,000  bushels,  valued  at  $20, 000,000 

a  year.  San-Francisco  flour  is  sent  by  shiploads  to  Central  America,  China,  and  Japan, 
1,200,000  barrels  being  exported  yearly.  Barley  is  raised  to  the  amount  of  16,000,000 
bushels.  The  other  cereals  have  a  much  smaller  product.  The  bean  crop  is  very  large, 
and  50,000  tons  are  sent  out  of  California  yearly,  besides  50,000  tons  of  other  vegetables. 
The  prodigious  mangel-wurzels  and  turnips  and  2OO-pound  pumpkins  are  the  result  of  ten 
months  of  growth  in  this  serene  climate.  Mammoth  sugar-beets  are  raised  easily,  ten  to 
20  tons  on  each  acre,  and  yielding  a  much  larger  percentage  of  sugar  than  the  European 
beets.  The  first  beet-sugar  factory  in  the  Far  West  was  established  at  Alvarado,  in  Santa- 
Clara  County,  several  years  ago.  Glaus  Spreckels  started  one  at  Watsonville,  in  the  Pajaro 
Valley,  two  years  ago,  with  a  plant  that  cost  $500,000,  and  can  reduce  500  tons  of  beets  to 
sugar  daily.  Around  Stockton  grow  vast  quantities  of  chicory,  always  salable  to  coffee- 
merchants  ;  and  mustard  of  extraordinary  ferocity.  Here,  also,  grows  the  Persian  insect- 
powder  plant,  whose  product  is  in  active  demand  from  Klamath  to  Fort  Yuma.  Sweet 
potatoes  and  peanuts  are  raised  almost  everywhere,  in  the  warm,  rich  soils,  especially  in 
the  interior  valleys.  In  the  San-Luis  Valley  cotton  grows.  The  tobacco  of  the  Pacific 
coast  is  rank  and  strong.  Hops  are  produced  to  the  amount  of  40,000  bales  yearly. 

California  is  now  the  foremost  State  in  the  Union  for  the  cultivation  of  fruit,  with 
20,000,000  trees,  growing  rapidly  and  producing  abundantly.  Even  the  deserted  mining- 
camps  in  the  foot-hills  have  been  replaced  by  vineyards  and  orchards.  In  no  other  equal 
area  in  the  world  can  the  fruits  of  semi-tropical  and  temperate  regions  be  grown  to  such 
perfection,  side  by  side,  in  the  same  orchard,  orange  and  apple,  lemon  and  cherry,  olive  and 
plum,  fig  and  pear,  the  pomegranate,  the  prune,  peach,  apricot,  nectarine,  vine,  nuts, 
and  cereals.  The  orange,  lemon,  and  lime  thrive  along  the  foot-hills  of  the  Sierras,  from 
Red  Bluff  on  the  north  to  National  City  on  the  south.  The  famous  Magnolia  Avenue 
extends  for  nine  miles,  between  double  rows  of  pepper  trees.  Great  quantities  of  the  finest 
oranges  are  sent  out  from  the  Sacramento  region,  and  the  sheltered  valleys  of  the  Coast 
Range,  and  the  red  soils  of  the  northern  foot-hills.  California  has  shipped  4,000  carloads 
of  oranges  in  a  season.  These  oranges  do  not  compete  with  those  of  Florida,  since  the 
season  of  sale  is  from  February  to  July,  when  the  Florida  fruit  is  not  in  the  market. 
Within  a  decade,  California  will  probably  supply  the  continent  with  lemons,  as  trees  are 
being  planted  in  great  numbers,  and  already  the  export  reaches  50,000  boxes  yearly.  The 
Californian  limes  are  of  excellent  quality.  The  entire  range  of  deciduous  fruits  grows  to 
perfection,  and  the  crop  has  reached  300,000,000  pounds.  Peaches  are  shipped  ripe,  by 
train-loads,  and  meet  with  a  ready  sale.  The  pro- 
duction yearly  of  2,000  tons  of  choice  sun-dried  and 
evaporated  peaches  fails  to  supply  the  market,  while 
the  demand  for  canned  peaches  and  other  fruits 
comes  from  all  over  the  world.  Here  the  delicious 
apricot  and  nectarine  are  produced  in  abundance  and 
perfection,  most  of  them  being  canned,  with  3,000,- 
000  pounds  dried.  Prune-growing  has  assumed 
vast  proportions,  with  1,000,000  trees.  Their  qual- 
ity became  known  quickly,  and  they  sell  at  prices  HETCH-HETCHY  VALLEY. 


THE  STATE   OF   CALIFORNIA. 


PALM    CANON. 


above   the   imported   varieties.     The   dried-prune   crop   has 

increased  to  a  yield  of  8,000,000  pounds.      Californian  pears 

have  no  rival  as  a  fresh  fruit,  or  canned  or  dried.     Figs  grow 

and  produce,  but  only  recently  have  successful  attempts  been 

made  to  cure  them.      The  State  has  300,000  fig-trees ;  and  the 

same  persistent  experimenting   that  has   produced  the  best 

raisins  and  prunes  may  give  California  the  best  dried  figs.    A  full 

car-load  of  dried  figs  was  shipped  from  Fresno  alone,  to  New 

York,  in  1889.    The  stately  and  graceful  English  walnut  trees 

bear  when  ten  years  old,  and  beautify  and  enrich  the  country. 

The  crop  exceeds  1,000,000  pounds.     The  almond  orchards, 

at  blossoming  time  looking  like  "a  rosy- white  cloud  or  a  pink 

snow-storm,"  bear  500,000  pounds  yearly.      Italian  chestnuts, 

filberts,  and  pistachio  nuts  are  also  raised.     The  yearly  crop 

of  peanuts  yields  200,000  pounds.      Among  other  fruits  are 

the  quince,  pomegranate,  Japanese  persimmon,  guava,  banana,  and  apple.      The  loquat  is 

a  yellow  Japanese  fruit,  peculiarly  adapted  to  the  climate.      Strawberries  are  in  the  market 

every  month  in  the  year ;  and  raspberries,  blackberries,  and  currants  are  grown  and  canned 

in  great  quantities.      Many  date-palms  have  been  raised  from  the  seed,  and  bear  both  the 

white  dates  and  the  red  (or  China)  dates. 

The  cultivation  of  olives  was  introduced  by  the  monks,  and  has  latterly  received  a  great 
development,  the  best  varieties  having  been  imported  from  France  and  Italy.  The  trees 
grow  from  cuttings,  a  hundred  to  the  acre,  in  rocky  and  sandy  places,  near  the  coast.  The 
olive  is  receiving  more  attention  than  any  other  tree.  Its  adaptability  to  the  climate  and 
soil  is  marked,  and  the  results  obtained  in  producing  an  olive-oil  equal  to  the  best  imported 
article,  are  important  factors.  The  Californian  olive-oils  have  the  advantage  of  being  pure, 
as  put  up  by  the  growers,  whereas  the  imported  oils  are  (as  a  rule)  injuriously  adulterated. 
Her  rapid  advance  in  this  industry  will  soon  place  California  among  the  great  olive-produc- 
ing countries  of  the  world.  At  Ellwood  Cooper's  ranche  the  olives  are  ground  between 
great  stone  rollers.  The  expressed  oil  stands  and  settles  for  three  months,  and  is  then  fil- 
tered through  six  layers  of  cotton  batting  and  one  of  French  paper.  When  bottled  it  has 
a  delicate  straw  color,  and  brings  double  the  price  of  the  best  Lucca  oil. 

A  box  of  Californian  raisins  was  a  curiosity  a  few  years  ago,  and  the  total  output  in  1880 
was  only  75,000  boxes.  The  capacity  now  is  2,200,000  boxes  of  the  finest  raisins  in  the 
world.  The  wide  barrens  of  Fresno  County  have  been  successfully  devoted  to  this  indus- 
try. The  Californian  vineyards  yield  two  tons  of  raisin-grapes  to  the  acre,  which  exceeds 
the  yield  of  the  Malaga  vineyards.  In  1890  33,000,000  pounds  were  shipped. 

Among  the  prospering -industries  of  the  Pacific  Coast,  one  of  the  most  interesting  and 
profitable  is  that  of  putting  up  various  articles  of  food  and  delicacies  in  cans  and  other  ves- 
sels, for  preservation  and  shipment.  The  abundant  fruit  production  of  California  finds  this 
one  of  its  best  outlets,  and  the  delicious  pears  and  peaches,  plums  and  other  fruits  of  the 
Golden  State  are  thus  sent  out  all  over  the  world.  Among  the  leaders  in  this  business 
is  the  firm  of  Code,  Elfelt  &  Co.,  whose  great  factories  are  equipped  with  all  the  modern 

devices  for  canning  food,  and  employ  a  consider- 
able force  of  skilled  operatives.  This  house  dates 
from  the  year  1867,  and  its  growth  has  been  step 
by  step  with  that  of  the  fruit-raising  industry  of 
California,  the  main  characteristic  being  the  uni- 
form high  grade,  so  that  the  Code,  Elfelt  &  Co.  's 
Californian  fruits  have  long  ago  become  the  recog- 
nized standard  for  the  best  quality  and  choicest 
SAN  FRANCISCO  :  CODE,  ELFELT  *  co.  selection,  and  command  the  highest  prices. 


84  KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

Between  1858  and  1862  a  wide-spread  interest  in  vine-planting  sprang  up,  and  the  State 
sent  Agoston  Haraszthy  abroad  to  study  European  methods.  He  brought  home  200,000 
vines  and  cuttings  from  Europe  and  Asia  Minor,  Persia  and  Egypt.  The 
State  Viticultural  Commission  was  founded  in  1880,  since  which  the  capi- 
tal invested  in  the  vineyards  has  risen  from  $14,500,000 
to  $87,000,000.  There  are  200,000  acres  planted  with 
young  vines,  and  producing  over  300,000  tons  of  grapes 
yearly.  In  the  four  years,  1884-8,  upwards  of  50,000,- 
ooo  gallons  of  wine  were  made  in  California,  two  thirds 
of  which  went  East.  The  yearly  product  now  is  about- 
17,000,000  gallons,  with  1,000,000  gallons  of  brandy.  SAN  FRANCISCO:  TELEGRAPH-HULL  OBSERVATORY. 
The  grape  country  is  600  miles  long  and  100  miles  wide.  California  has  three  grape-growing 
districts  :  (i),  the  Coast  (Sonoma,  Lake,  Alameda,  Santa-Clara  and  Santa-Cruz  counties), 
producing  fine  grades  of  white  and  red  dry  wines,  Sauternes,  clarets  and  champagnes ;  (2), 
The  red  Sierra  foothills  and  the  Sacramento  Valley  (Placer,  El  Dorado,  Calaveras,  Tuo- 
lumne,  Yuba,  Yolo,  Butte,  Sacramento  and  Tehama),  yielding  dry  wines,  table-grapes  and 
raisins  ;  and  (3),  the  southern  district  (San  Joaquin,  Merced,  Fresno,  Tulare,  Kern,  Ven- 
tura, Santa-Barbara,  San-Bernardino,  Los-Angeles,  Orange  and  San-Diego  counties),  rich 
in  sugary  grapes,  making  heavy  sweet  wines,  like  Port  and  sherry,  Angelica  and  Muscatel. 
Fresno  County  produces  700,000  boxes  of  raisins  yearly.  The  old  Mission  vineyards  sup- 
plied fruits  until  the  handsome  and  prolific  Zinfandel  was  introduced.  But  it  soon 

became  apparent  that  the  Zinfandel  was  an  inferior 
grape,  after  all,  and  to  cap  the  climax,  the  phyllox- 
era came  down  on  the  Hungarian  importation 
and  bore  it  away.  No  new  vineyards  were  re- 
planted with  the  Zinfandel,  and  the  vine  is  being 
replaced  with  the  choicest  and  hardiest  wine- 
grapes  from  Europe,  including  Cabernet  Sauvig- 
non,  Cabernet  Franc,  Malbec,  Tannat,  Merlot  and 
St. -Laurent  grapes  from  the  Bordeaux  districts; 
Mataro,  from  Palos ;  Semillons  and  Sauvignons, 
from  Sauterne  ;  Pinot  and  Petite  Sirrah,  from  Bur- 

SWEETWATER    DAM  :     IRRIGATION-WORKS.  ,  T     ,  .    ,  . 

gundy;  Jonanmsbergers,    1  rammers  and  rranken 

Rieslings,  from  the  Rhine;  Chasselas,  from  Alsace-Lorraine;  delicious  Burgers,  from 
Moselle ;  the  rich  Spanish  Muscats ;  and  the  favorite  Hungarian  table-grape,  the  Flaming 
Tokay.  In  no  other  vine  region  in  the  world,  are  all  these  splendid  fruits  found  side  by 
side,  and  they  make  of  California  the  wonderland  of  the  vine.  California  has  the  largest 
vineyard  in  the  world,  in  Tehama  County,  on  Stanford's  farm.  It  contains  4,000  acres. 
The  largest  wine-cellar  in  the  world  is  at  St.  Helena,  the  capacity  being  2,500,000  gallons. 
The  wonderful  Orleans  Vineyard  is  in  Yolo  County,  near  the  entrance  of  the  Capay 
Valley,  and  covers  400  acres  of  foot-hills,  with  vines  grown  from  the  choicest  grapes  of 
the  Champagne  and  Burgundy  and  Medoc  districts,  in  45  varieties.  The  roads  travers- 
ing this  noble  estate  are  bordered  with  fig  and  olive,  orange  and  lemon  trees.  The  great 
wine-cellar  has  every  modern  appliance  for  the  manufacture  and  storage  of  300,000  gallons 
of  wine.  The  products  of  this  vineyard  are  celebrated  for  their  agreeable  freshness  in  taste, 

and  prepossessing   bouquet,  and  are   used  c-r—  — ; — — -=H 

at  the  leading  American   hotels,   and  also   . 

largely   in    Europe,    where   this  estate  has 

an  agency.     The  Arpad  Haraszthy's  Brut, 

Arpad  Haraszthy's  Extra  Dry  and  Eclipse 

Champagnes  are  the   three  famous  brands 

made    here,    from  natural    fermentation    in  ARPAD  HARASZTHY  *  co.-s  ORLEANS  VINEYARD. 


THE  STATE   OF   CALIFORNIA. 


ORCHARD   IRRIGATION. 


bottles,  the  process  being  the  same  as  that  used  in 
France.  The  vineyard  belongs  to  Arpad  Haraszthy 
&Co.,  who  also  have  immense  stores  and  warehouses 
in  San  Francisco.  Mr.  Haraszthy  is  the  son  of  the 
pioneer  of  scientific  grape-culture  tn  California,  and 
spent  five  years  (1857-62)  in  Europe,  studying  vine- 
growing  and  wine-making. 

The  phylloxera,  which  during  the  past  few  years 
played  great  havoc,  is  being  overcome.  The  inferior 
grapes  upon  which  the  pest  feeds  are  being  rooted 
out,  and  the  choice  foreign  varieties,  which  are  sub- 
ject to  it,  are  protected  by  grafting  on  native  wild  varieties  known  as  resistant  vines,  which 
the  phylloxera  does  not  affect.  The  marketing  of  the  wines  of  California  is  done  principally 
at  San  Francisco,  whence  they  are  shipped  to  almost  all  points  of  the  world.  One  of  the 
largest,  oldest  and  best  known  of  the  wine-dealers  of  California  is  the  firm  of  S.  Lachman 
&  Co.,  of  San  Francisco,  with  a  branch  house  in  New  York.  At  their  establishment  maybe 
seen  a  wonderful  and  complete  storage  system  for  aging,  maturing,  and  blending  the 

native  product.      Its  capacity  of  over  2,000,- 
ooo  gallons,  and  the  facilities  for  handling 
that  immense  quantity  from  year  to  year, 
indicate  the  incessant  labor  and  capital  in- 
volved in  placing  the  wines  before  the  con- 
sumer.     The  wines  are  contained  in  huge 
casks  and  tanks,  varying  in  capacity  from 
1,500  to   16,000  gallons  each.      The    pro- 
moter   and    founder,   Samuel    Lachman,    still    the 
head   of  the  firm,  has  been   a  leader   in   the   busi- 
ness   for   25    years.     The    plant    covers    275    feet 

SAN  FRANCISCO  :  s.  LACHMAN  &  co.  •  square,  the  greater  portion  of  which  is  occupied  by  the 
immense  storage  vaults,  three  floors  in  extent ;  and  space  set  apart  for  the  manufacture  of 
cooperage  occupies  another  portion  of  this  ground.  Forty  men  are  employed  in  handling 
and  preparing  wines  for  shipment.  Medals  and  diplomas  have  been  awarded  at  various 
International  Expositions,  and  many  letters  of  encomium  received  from  connoisseurs  every- 
where. The  wines  are  brought  from  vineyards  throughout  the  State,  and  comprise  white 
wines  of  the  Gutedel,  Sauterne,  Traminer,  Riesling  and  Hock  types;  red  wines  of  the 
Burgundy,  Zinfandel  and  other  red-wine  grapes ;  and  sweet 
wines,  like  Angelica,  Catawba,  Ports,  Sherries,  Muscat, 
Mount  Vineyard,  Tokay,  Malaga,  and  Madeira.  Special 
attention  is  given  to  the  careful  bottling  of  fine  wines,  and 
to  the  purchasing  of  fine  brandies  produced  in  the  State. 

California  is  the  foremost  wool-producing  State,  for  her 
6,000,000  sheep  give  yearly  35,000,000  pounds  of  fine  and 
heavy  fleeces.  In  1876  the  wool-clip  amounted  to  56,500,- 
ooo  pounds,  but  the  industry  has  declined  since  that  time. 
During  summer  and  early  autumn  the  high  valleys  of  the 
Sierra  contain  innumerable  sheep,  driven  up  from  the  dry 
hot  lowlands,  where  they  pass  the  winter  without  need  of 
shelter.  There  are  several  ranches  of  over  100,000  acres 
each,  like  the  Lux  &  Miller,  Beale,  and  McLaughlin,  de- 
voted to  raising  cattle  and  sheep,  with  vast  areas  of  pastur- 
age on  the  mountains,  abounding  in  nutritious  grasses. 
The  State  has  800,000  neat  cattle,  50,000  milch  cows  of  BEAR-VALLEY  DAM. 


86  KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE    UNITED   STATES. 

good  stock,  250,000  horses,  and  400,000  swine.  It  produces  yearly  15,000,000  pounds  of 
butter  and  cheese,  much  of  which  is  exported  to  Asia  and  the  Sandwich  Islands.  Fully 
$30,000,000  worth  of  cattle  are  slaughtered  yearly.  The  majority  of  the  horses  are  Mexi- 
can mustangs,  of  Spanish  breed,  hardy  little  creatures,  and  good  mountaineers,  but  packed 
to  the  ears  with  mischief  and  malice.  Most  of  the  old  «Spanish-Mexican  population  clings 
to  the  pastoral  life  of  the  stock-ranches,  serving  as  herders,  and  galloping  around  the  flocks, 
perched  high  on  their  peaked  saddles  on  peppery  little  mustangs.  The  favorite  forage-plant 
is  alfalfa,  or  Chilian  clover,  a  deep-rooted  lucerne,  resisting  the  fiercest  droughts,  and  yield- 
ing twelve  tons  to  the  acre.  The  leading  horse-breeding  establishments  are  Leland  Stan- 
ford's, the  Hearst  estate,  and  Baldwin's,  where  many  famous  race-horses  have  been  reared. 

The  erection  of  great  stock-yards  on 
the  Pacific  Coast  has  been  rendered  neces- 
sary, for  the  food  supply  of  the  thronged 
and  important  cities  of  this  fast-develop- 
ing region,  and  of  the  steamship  lines 
running  out  of  San  Francisco.  Vast 
quantities  of  canned  and  cured  meats  are 
also  exported  to  the  islands  of  the  Pacific, 
and  for  the  use  of  the  Pacific  and  China  POINT  PINOLE  :  UNION  STOCK-YARDS  OF  SAN  FRANCISCO. 
squadrons.  Accordingly,  the  Union  Stock-Yards  Company  has  been  formed,  with  a  capital 
of  $2,500,000,  and  has  built  large  modern  yards  on  its  1,500  acres  of  land,  on  the  main 
double-track  line  of  the  Southern  and  Central  Pacific  systems,  with  a  frontage  of  nearly  two 
miles  on  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco,  at  Point  Pinole,  near  Berkeley.  Of  the  live-stock  grown 
on  the  Pacific  Coast  85  per  cent,  comes  to  market  over  the  rails  leading  by  these  stock- 
yards, whose  wharves  also  are  visited  by  ships  from  all  parts  of  the  wprld.  Here,  there- 
fore, will  be  the  great  distributing  point  for  fresh  and  cured  meats  for  an  immense  popula- 
tion; and  the  pork-packing  houses,  tanneries,  and  similar  industries  will  probably  be 
concentrated  on  this  tract,  which  is  the  most  convenient  place  for  their  purposes  in  the 
vicinity  of  San  Francisco. 

With  a  climate  like  Italy,  Southern  China,  and  Japan,  California  hopes  to  become  the 
great  silk-producing  State.  Thousands  of  black  and  white  mulberry  trees  have  been  brought 
here  from  Milan,  to  afford  food  for  the  silk-worms.  In  1854  the  honey-bee  entered  Cali- 
fornia, and  now  there  are  above  50,000  hives  in  Los- Angeles  and  San-Diego  counties  alone, 
besides  thousands  of  escaped  swarms,  working  all  the  year  round.  Over  6, 000,000  pounds 
of  honey  are  obtained  yearly,  besides  300,000  pounds  of  comb  and  20,000  pounds  of  bees- 
wax. Some  of  the  larger  bee-ranches  have  I,ooo  hives  each,  and  every  hive  good  for  a 
hundred  pounds  of  honey  a  year.  The  abundant  spicy  flowers  and  aromatic  sage-brush 
give  this  honey  a  unique  and  delicious  taste.  There  are  several  ostrich-ranches,  where  the 
beautiful  African  birds  are  successfully  raised,  each  breeding  pair  having  a  pen  of  an  acre 
in  area,  and  living  on  alfalfa  and  corn.  These  powerful  and  pugnacious  creatures  are  dan- 
gerously savage  during  breeding  time,  when  they  lay  their  eggs  in  deep  holes  in  the  sand. 

Gold  Mining  has  produced  in  California,  between  1849  and  1890,  nearly  $1,300,000,- 
ooo  in  bullion.     The  State  yields  more  gold  than  any  other,  and  nearly  half  of  the  Amer- 
ican output.     For   15  years  (1850-64,   inclusive)  the  yield  exceeded 
$50,000,000  a  year;   but  for  the  past  15  years  it  has  fallen  below 
$20,000,000.     The  gold-fields  extend  for  400  miles 
along  the  Sierra  foot-hills,  with  an  average  width  of 
35  miles.     Another  smaller  field  lies  in  the  north- 
west, in  the  Coast  Range.     Gold  abounds  in  South- 
ern   California    also,    where    Los-Angeles    County 
alone  has  produced  $10,000,000.     The   first  mining 
ALHAMBRA  :  PUBLIC  LIBRARY.  was  m  tne  placers,  where  the  gold-seekers  washed 


THE  STATE   OF  CALIFORNIA. 


SAN    QUENTIN  :     STATE    PRISON. 


the  earth  or  sand  in  pans  or  rockers,  until  the  soil 
passed  out,  leaving  a  sediment  of  heavy  yellow 
dust,  which  was  gathered  into  an  amalgam,  by  add- 
ing quicksilver.  Very  little  placer-mining  is  now 
done,  except  by  the  Chinamen.  In  hydraulic  min- 
ing, powerful  six-inch  jets  of  water,  with  head 
enough  to  be  hard  as  steel,  are  turned  upon  banks 
of  auriferous  gravel,  previously  loosened  by  blast- 
ing, disintegrating  them,  and  leaving  the  gold  to  be 
caught  in  cavities  in  the  sluices  below.  To  furnish  this  water,  over  5,000  miles  of  aque- 
ducts were  built,  with  reservoirs,  dams,  and  trestles,  at  a  cost  of  above  $10,000,000.  The 
hydraulic  mines  were  mainly  in  Nevada,  Placer  and  Sierra  counties,  and  on  the  Klamath 
River.  The  gravel,  or  tailings,  washed  down  inflicted  great  damage  in  the  distant  low- 
lands. The  land-owners  combined  and  secured  judicial  decrees  against  the  miners,  who 
were  forced  to  erect  costly  and  capacious  retaining  dams.  As  a  result,  hydraulic  mining 
has  been  practically  suspended,  except  on  the  Klamath  River.  In  river-bed  mining,  the  bed 
of  the  stream  is  laid  bare,  by  diverting  the  water,  and  the  gravel  therein  is  washed  in 
sluices.  Drift  mining  consists  in  driving  tunnels  to  the  auriferous  beds  of  ancient  streams, 
bringing  up  the  rich  gravel,  and  washing  it  in  sluices.  One  third  of  the  gold  is  obtained 
by  quartz-mining,  crushing  the  gold  ore  removed  from  shafts,  by  heavy  iron  stamps,  and 

extracting  the  precious  metal,  by  amalgamating  with 
quicksilver.  This  mining  is  done  on  the  Mother  Lode, 
which  extends  80  miles,  from  Mariposa  to  Amador.  The 
name  of  the  Golden  Gate,  given  long  before  gold 
was  found  in  California,  proved  to  be  prophetic ; 
and  myriads  of  Eastern  Argonauts,  Mexican-War 
veterans,  Kanakas,  Peruvians,  and  Australians 
poured  into  the  land  of  treasure.  In  their  min- 
ing towns,  Red  Dog,  Git-up-and-Git,  Gouge- 
Eye,  You  Bet,  Nearly  Hell,  Hell  Itself,  and  the 
like,  they  lived  flush,  and  spent  their  gold  as  fast  as  it  came  —  $3  for  an  egg,  $15  for  a 
shovel,  $4  for  a  cup  of  coffee,  and  so  on. 

Silver-Mines  abound  east  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  and  have  absorbed  a  vast  amount  of 
labor  and  capital,  but  have  not  been  profitable.  The  lonely  valleys  beyond  the  Sierra  are 
made  more  melancholy  by  the  ruins  of  reduction-works  and  abandoned  towns.  The  silver- 
belt  stretches  from  Alaska  far  down  into  South  America.  It  has  produced  $26,000,000  in 
bullion,  in  California.  The  chief  Californian  mines  are  near  the  Mohave  River. 

The  quicksilver  product  of  California  has  exceeded  $70,000,000;  and  goes  on  at  the  rate 
of  25,000  flasks  (2,000,000  pounds)  a  year,  much  of  which  is  exported  to  Mexico  and  China. 
There  are  36  large  furnaces  now  active,  each  roasting  from  20  to  40  tons  of  ore  daily,  when 
needed.  The  deposits  at  New  Almaden  have  produced  above  800,000  flasks.  Other  mines 
are  worked  in  Lake  and  Napa  counties. 
Copper  has  been  a  valuable  product, 
but  the  fall  in  price  destroyed  this 
industry.  The  high 
price  of  the  metal 
since  1 887  has  caused 
several  companies  to 
re-open  mines.  Lead 
is  produced  from  the 
silver  ores  of  the  Eu- 
reka, Cerro-Gordo,  8AN  DiEGO .  HOTEL  CORONADO.  CORONADO  BEACH. 


SAN    FRANCISCO  \     UNITED-STATES    MINT. 


88  KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 

and  other  mines,  mainly  at  the  Selby  Smelting  Works, 
at  San  Francisco.  Iron  abounds,  but  is  generally 
hard  to  get  at,  and  remote  from  fuel.  The  first  ex- 
ploiting of  this  product  occurred  in  1881,  \vhen  the 
California  Iron  Company  fired  up  furnaces  at  Clipper 
Gap.  About  10,000  tons  of  chromic  iron  are  ship- 
ped yearly  to  Scotland  and  Baltimore.  Salt  is  made, 
by  the  evaporation  of  sea-water,  at  San  Diego  and 
Santa  Monica,  and  on  San-Francisco  Bay.  The  Cal- 
ifornia Salt  Works,  at  Mount  Eden,  have  3,000  acres 
of  evaporating  surface,  and  make  yearly  15,000  tons 
of  salt ;  and  3,000  tons  are  made  yearly  at  Dos  Pal- 
mas,  in  the  Colorado  Desert.  Borax  is  manufactured  at  Slate-Range  Marsh,  San-Bernar- 
dino County,  to  the  extent  of  15,000  tons  yearly.  The  purest  crystallized  borax  in  the 
world  is  found  in  the  lakes  and  springs  of  Lake  County.  The  yearly  product  is  valued  at 
a  high  figure.  Near  Keeler  great  quantities  of  soda  are  made,  by  evaporating  the  water  of 
Owen's  Lake.  The  volcanic  rocks  of  Lake  County,  reeking  with  steam  and  vapors,  are 
rich  in  sulphur.  About  the  year  1867,  works  were  put  up,  and  hundreds  of  tons  of  refined 
and  brilliant  sulphur  went  hence  to  San  Francisco,  until  the  competition  of  Sicilian  sulphur 
destroyed  the  trade.  Antimony  has  been  mined  on  a  large  scale  at  San  Emedio  and  Slay- 
ton,  but  without  profit.  As  a  producer  of  petroleum,  California  comes  fifth,  yielding  1 50,  - 
ooo  barrels  yearly.  It  is  pumped  from  deep  wells  in  Santa-Clara,  Los- Angeles,  and  Ventura 
counties,  at  from  five  to  200  barrels  each  per  day,  and  this  region  is  equipped  with  refineries 
and  pipe-lines.  The  oil-territory  extends  for  160 
miles,  and  $3,000,000  are  invested.  The  Pacific 
Oil  Company's  refinery,  built  in  1879  at  Alameda 
Point,  covers  15  acres.  There  are  gas-wells  near 
Clear  Lake.  Coal  has  been  mined  for  25  years 
on  Mount  Diablo,  where  there  are  veins  of  infer- 
ior bituminous  coal  (or  lignite).  Over  100,000 
tons  are  sent  yearly  to  San  Francisco.  Coal  has 
been  derived  in  large  amounts  from  the  mines  of  SAN  JOSE>  FROM  THE  DOME  OF  THE  COURT-HOUSE. 
Contra  Costa  and  Amador,  but  the  quality  is  not  of  the  best,  and  consequently  the 
industry  is  declining.  Tin  is  found  in  San  Bernardino,  nickel  in  Monterey,  manganese  in 
Alameda,  graphite  in  Del  Norte,  and  arragonite  in  Colusa.  Elsewhere  occur  deposits  of 
platinum,  iridium,  tellurium,  cobalt,  alum,  asbestos,  isinglass,  bismuth,  alabaster,  mineral 
paint,  and  kaolin.  In  the  early  days  San  Francisco  sent  to  Australia  for  the  stone  to  build 
its  old  city  hall,  and  to  China  for  the  materials  used  in  the  walls  of  the  Union  Club  and  the 
Wells-Fargo  offices.  Since  that  time  the  local  resources  have  become  better  known,  and 
hundreds  of  quarries  are  in  successful  operation.  Granite  and  gray  sandstone  are  produced 
in  great  quantities,  and  at  many  places.  Fine-grained  dolomite  is  found  at  the  Inyo  quar- 
ries, porphyry  at  Riverside,  tufa  at  Napa,  soapstone  at  Sonora,  ser- 
pentine at  Benicia,  basalt  at  Concord,  red  and  white  marble  at 
Plymouth  and  Colton,  at  Antelope  Valley  and  in  Amador, 
and  black  and  blue  slate  near  Placerville.  There 
are  large  lime-kilns  in  several  localities.  The 
beautiful  marble  and  onyx  of  Glover  Mountain, 
near  Colton,  have  a  high  decorative  value,  and  are 
extensively  worked.  Another  immense  marble 
region  is  in  Inyo  County.  The  new  Mills  Build- 
ing is  faced  with  Inyo  marble.  Fine  bituminous 
T. -IGNATIUS  CHURCH  AND  COLLEGE.  rock»  for  street  paving,  is  shipped  from  Ventura. 


SIERRA    MADRE  : 
CHURCH     OF   THE   ASCENSION. 


THE  STATE   OF  CALIFORNIA. 

The  mineral  springs  are  of  great  variety,  and  occur  amid 
beautiful  mountain  scenery.  Napa  Soda  Springs  flow  from  a' 
mountain-side  above  the  charming  Napa  Valley,  and  the  grounds 
cover  1,000  acres,  in  which  there  are  numerous  stone  buildings 
and  cottages.  The  White  Sulphur  Springs  bubble  up  in  a 
deep  and  romantic  gorge  near  St.  Helena.  The  Hot  Springs 
of  Calistoga  contain  sulphur,  iron  and  magnesia,  at  a  temper- 
ature of  185°.  The  Geysers,  one  of  the  revealing  marvels  of 
the  earth,  with  its^"  crust  of  fossils  and  heart  of  fire,"  are  hid- 
den in  a  Tartarean  gorge  among  the  violet  peaks  and  redwood  forests  of  the  Mayacamas 
Mountains,  with  boiling  and  spouting  springs  of  iron,  soda,  alum,  and  ink,  and  white,  red 
and  black  sulphur  waters,  dark  Stygian  pools,  cliffs  forever  wreathed  in  steam,  black  swirl- 
ing caldrons,  hot  ashes,  chemical  odors,  and  intense  colors,  a  veritable  Satan's  medicine- 
shop.  The  California  Seltzer  Springs  have  a  good  alkaline  water.  Highland  Springs,  in 
Lake  County,  are  alkaline,  and  charged  with  carbonic  acid.  The  hotel  is  1,740  feet  high, 
among  the  Mayacamas  Mountains.  Other  resorts  are  the  Aqua  de  Vita,  in  Alameda,  with 
saline  and  sulphur  waters ;  the  Mission-San-Jose  Hot  Springs ;  the  Byron 
Hot  Springs,  65°  to  128°,  in  a  valley  of  Contra  Costa;  Paraiso  Springs, 
near  Monterey ;  yEtna  Springs,  in  Pope  Valley  (Napa);  Campbell's  Hot 
Springs,  5,025  feet  high,  in  Sierra  County;  Skagg's  Hot  Springs;  Bartlett 
Springs ;  and  Seigler  Springs,  near  Clear  Lake,  with  valuable 
chalybeate  waters.  Southern  California  has  thousands  of  min- 
eral springs,  bubbling,  rushing,  and  jetting  from  its  volcanic 
strata,  like  those  at  Lang,  Temecula,  Matilija,  Temescal, 
San  Juan,  and  San  Fernando.  The  hot  sulphur  waters  of  the 
Santa-Barbara  Springs  are  efficient  in  chronic  rheumatism. 
The  hotel  is  1,450  feet  above  the  sea,  in  a  pleasant  and 
equable  climate.  The  Arrowhead  Hot  Springs  break  forth 
in  a  canon  of  the  San-Bernardino  Range.  They  number  25, 
at  temperatures  from  140°  to  193° ;  and  the  hotel  is  2,000 
feet  above  the  sea.  The  Carlsbad  waters  resemble  those  of 
the  German  Carlsbad.  The  hot  springs  at  El  Paso  de  Robles 
have  for  many  years  been  visited  by  people  of  fashion. 
The  State  Board  of  Forestry  has  done  good  service  in  introducing  the  Tasmanian  blue- 
gum,  Australian  sugar-gum,  Torrey  pine,  locust,  wattle,  and  catalpa.  It  has  six  large  parks, 
with  plantations  of  trees  ;  and  publishes  valuable  illustrated  reports.  The  monarchs  of 
all  these  woodlands  are  the  Sequoia  gigantea,  growing  in  groves 
along  the  Sierra  Nevada,  from  6,000  to  7,000  feet  above  the 
sea.  High  up  in  the  valley  of  King's  River  is  a  forest,  where 
for  leagues  the  lofty  tops  of  these  redwoods  rise  above  their 
lowlier  brethren.  The  tallest  of  them  reaches  a  height  of  325 
feet,  and  their  circumference  is  from  50  to  100  feet.  The  bark 
has  a  thickness  of  two  feet.  The  Big  Trees  have  been  visited 
by  thousands  of  tourists  since  their  discovery,  in  1852,  most  of 
the  people  going  to  the  Calaveras  Grove,  where  there  is  a  road 
and  hotel.  There  are  famous  groves  on  the  Stanislaus,  the 
Merced,  and  the  Tuolumne  River.  The  Big-Tree  Groves  of 
Mariposa  cover  above  2, 500  acres,  6, 500  feet  above  the  sea, 
and  have  been  reserved  as  the  Sequoia  National  Park.  They 
contain  more  than  300  great  trees,  much  marred  by  fire,  but 
still  wonderfully  grand  and  impressive.  The  Calaveras 
Grove  includes  nearly  100  Big  Trees,  several  of  them  over  REDWOOD  FOREST. 


SACRAMENTO  :  THE  CATHEDRAL. 


00 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE   UNITED   STATES. 


FORT    BRAGS  :    FORT-BRAGG    REDWOOD    CO.  'S    MILLS. 


300  feet  tall.  These  are  the  loftiest  trees  in  all 
America.  One  of  them  has  been  cut  down,  by 
five  men  working  22  days ;  and  its  stump  forms 
the  floor  of  a  pavilion  23  by  24  feet  in  area.  The 
redwoods  {Sequoia  sempervirens},  whose  mag- 
nificent forests  thrive  only  in  the  sea-fogs  of 
the  Coast  Range,  and  mainly  north  of  the 
Golden  Gate,  reach  a  height  of  300  feet,  and 
afford  a  durable  and  valuable  wood  for  building. 
This  is  one  of  the  most  highly  prized  varieties 
of  lumber,  and  has  latterly  been  shipped  in 
great  quantities  to  the  Eastern  States,  where  its 
ornamental  properties  are  fully  appreciated.  Among  the  chief  handlers  of  redwood  are 
the  well-known  and  allied  Fort-Bragg  Redwood  Company  and  Noyo  Lumber  Company, 
which  own  vast  tracts  of  woodlands,  and  are  continually  investing  in  areas  of  forests. 
Their  domain  covers  over  70,000  acres  of  land,  and  the  rest  of  the  plant  includes  eight 
miles  of  railway,  besides  vessels  and  mills,  and  other  efficient  and  valuable  auxiliaries. 
The  chief  mills  are  at  Fort  Bragg,  on  the  great  belt  of  redwood  which  runs  through  Men- 
docino  County,  along  the  coast,  with  a  breadth  of  15  miles.  In  this  vast  area  of  virgin 
forest  the  companies  employ  800  men,  getting  out  redwood  and  pine,  for  lumber  and 
shingles,  shakes  and  ties,  logs  and  posts.  The  ^^SSI^SJmglS^^KaBJiSi^Ji&ff 
long  ocean-frontage  and  the  two  harbors  on  this  I 
great  domain  give  unusual  facilities  for  the  ex- 
portation of  lumber,  much  of  which  is  formed 
into  rafts  and  towed  to  San  Francisco.  These 
companies  were  the  first  to  inaugurate  the  raft- 
ing system  on  the  Pacific  Coast ;  and  they  are 
the  largest  dealers  in  split  redwood  railroad  ties, 
which  have  come  into  general  use  and  favor. 

The  other  interesting  trees  of  the  Coast  are  FORT  BRAGG  REDWOOD  c°-'s  MILLS. 

the  cypresses  of  Carmel  Bay,  the  great  pines  of  Monterey,  the  glossy-leaved  madrono, 
and  the  fine-grained  California  laurel.  The  Great  Valley  is  diversified  by  many  groves 
and  clumps  of  lobata  oaks,  changing  on  the  foot-hills  to  scattered  Douglas  and  live  oaks  and 
digger  pines.  Higher  up  along  the  Sierra  come  the  large  white  cedar,  yellow  and  black 
pines,  and  Douglas  fir,  the  last-named  covering  vast  areas  and  having  high  economic 
value.  On  this  same  belt  are  the  amazing  sugar-pines,  reaching  a  height  of  from  200  to 
300  feet,  and  highly  prized  for  timber.  At  from  4,000  to  8,500  feet  above  the  sea,  these 
trees  give  place  to  the  grand  coniferous  forest  of  California,  the  hardy  white,  red  and  silver 
cedars  and  tamaracks  and  pines,  and  many  silver  spruces,  above  which  stretch  the  un- 
trodden snows  and  granite  peaks.  The  hickory,  beech,  elm,  and  other  well-known  trees 

,==.  are  not  found  here,  and  much  timber  has  to  be 
I  imported  for  industrial  uses.  The  magnificent 
oaks  and  sycamores  of  the  south  fairly  shut  out 
the  sunlight,  and  alternate  with  mountain  fronts 
and  canon-sides  carpeted  with  chapparal,  or 
matted  thickets  of  innumerable  many-colored 
shrubs.  On  the  valley  ranches  long  belts  of 
eucalyptus  and  poplar  have  been  planted  for 
firewood,  and  to  keep  the  wind  from  the  olive- 
yards  and  almond  groves. 

The  chief  animals  are  the  fierce  grizzly  bears 
FORT-BRAGO  REDWOOD  co. 's  RAFTS.  ofthe  Coast  Range ;  the  black  and  the  cinnamon 


THE  STATE   OF  CALIFORNIA. 


91 


bears,  the  deer  and  antelope,  and  the  mountain  goats 
of  the  Sierra  Nevada  ;  the  elks  of  the  Shasta  region  j 
the  famous  sea-lions  of  the  Farallones  and  Seal  Rocks, 
whose  huge  size,  unwieldy  gambols  and  odd  noises  are 
observed  by  nearly  all  visitors  to  San  Francisco  ;  the 
gophers  and  squirrels,  detested  by  husbandmen  ;  and 
the  beavers,  still  remaining  in  remote  places.  The 
birds  number  350  species,  headed  by  the  largest  Amer- 
ican flyers,  the  California  vultures. 

Government. —  The  Governor  of  California  is 
elected  for  four  years.  The  Legislature  includes  40 
four-years'  senators  and  80  two-years'  representatives. 

The  Supreme  Court  has  seven  justices,  elected  by  the  people  for  twelve  years.  The  mag- 
nificent State  Capitol  at  Sacramento  was  built  in  1860-74,  at  a  cost  of  $2,600,000,  and  stands 
in  a  park  of  25  acres,  abounding  in  lawns  and  flowers. 

The  National  Guard  of  California  is  organized  into  a  division  of  six  brigades,  composed  of 
seven  regiments  and  four  companies.  The  First  and  Third  Infantry,  Second  Artillery  (eight 
companies  serving  as  infantry),  Battery  A  (four  Parrotts  and  four  Gatlings),  and  the  Hussars, 
are  at  San  Francisco ;  and  the  Fifth  Infantry  belongs  in  neighboring  cities.  The  Sixth 
Infantry  comes  from  about  Stockton  ;  the  Seventh  Infantry  from  the  Los- Angeles  country ; 
the  First  Artillery,  from  the  Sacramento  region  ;  and  the  Chico,  Colusa  and  Eureka  Guards. 
There  are  occasional  encampments  of  portions  of  the  National  Guard,  and  some  atten- 
tion is  given  to  rifle-practice.  The  uniform  resembles  that  of  the  United-States  army. 

The  Napa  State  Asylum  for  the  Insane,  with  1,500  inmates,  is  a  noble  building,  sur- 
rounded by  lawns  and  orchards,  vineyards  and  olive-yards.  The  Stockton  State  Asylum 
for  the  Insane  holds  1,700  patients,  in  commodious  buildings,  amid  spacious  and  pleasant 
grounds.  The  California  Hospital  for  the  Chronic  Insane,  at  Agnews,  holds  500  incurables. 
The  Mendocino  Insane  Asylum  is  at  Ukiah.  The  South-Californian  State  Asylum  for  the 
Insane  was  founded  in  1889.  The  California  Home  for  the  Care  and  Training  of  Feeble- 
Minded  Children,  opened  in  1885,  at  Santa  Clara,  has  over  100  inmates.  The  California 
Institution  for  the  Education  of  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  and  the  Blind,  at  Berkeley,  has  160 
boys  and  girls,  in  a  group  of  cottages  looking  out  through  the  Golden  Gate  to  the  Pacific 
Ocean.  There  are  19  orphan  asylums  receiving  State  aid  and  inspection.  The  State  Prison 
at  San  Quentin,  twelve  miles  from  San  Francisco,  'across  the  bay,  has  1,400  convicts, 
including  many  Mexicans  and  Indians.  Tfce  State  Prison  at  Folsom,  opened  in  1880,  has 
700  inmates.  The  State  Reform  School  for  Juvenile  Offenders,  at  Whittier,  in  Los- Angeles 
County,  is  conducted  on  the  cottage-plan,  and  teaches  various  trades,  besides  farming  and 
fruit-growing.  The  Preston  School  of  Industry  for  Youthful  Criminals  was  founded  in 
1889,  at  lone  City,  Amador  County. 

National  Institutions. — The  only  American  naval  station  on  the  Pacific  Coast  is  the 
Navy  Yard  at  Mare  Island,  28  miles  from  San  Francisco.  The  usual  stone  and  brick  buildings 
for  construction  and  storage,  hospitals  and  barracks,  are  grouped  on  one  side  of  a  fertile  island 
ten  miles  around,  with  deep  water  and  good  anchorage  off-shore.  The  three-million-dollar 

stone  dry-dock  can  accommodate  the  largest  ships  in  the 
world.      Of  late  years  the  yard  has  been  abandoned  to 
peaceful  decay,  with  the  ironclads  Monadnock 
and  Comanche  rusting  at  their  moorings,  and 

|jl|  I.IMIJI.  i jgWIiiiip..,  _Jii  !L[.t!.!!.iilJMi.L.l,i.li! Farragut's  flagship  Hartford  rotting  in  the 

stream.  The  Presidio  Reservation  extends 
along  the  Golden  Gate,  with  pleasant  pa- 
rade-grounds and  barracks,  and  the  lar- 
gest garrison  on  the  Pacific  Coast.  Here 


BERKELEY  :    UNIVERSITY    OF   CALIFORNIA. 


92 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED  STATES. 


SAN    FRANCISCO  :    THE   SYNAGOGUE. 


Fort  Winfield  Scott's  casemate  batteries  and  barbette  earthworks  face 
the  narrowest  part  of  the  Golden  Gate.  Fort  Mason  is  another  defence 
of  San  Francisco.  Alcatraz  Island  rises  inside  the  Golden  Gate,  as 
picturesque  as  Malta,  with  its  ascending  lines  of  fortifications.  Angel 
Island  is  occupied  by  batteries,  barracks,  and  parade-grounds.  Fort  Bid- 
well,  the  station  of  two  companies  of  cavalry,  overlooks  the  60 
miles  of  the  Surprise  Valley,  with  its  three  bitter  alkaline  lakes 
and  wide-spreading  plains  of  sage-brush.  Fort  Gaston,  in  the 
Iloopa  Valley,  has  one  company  of  bored  and  lonely  infantry- 
men. There  are  barracks  at  Benicia  and  San  Diego ;  and  an 
arsenal  at  Benicia.  Southern  California  is  in  the  Military 
Department  of  Arizona,  whose  headquarters  is  at  Los  Angeles. 
The  National  Soldiers'  Home  at  Santa  Monica  occupies  300 
acres  of  beautiful  rolling  land,  and  amid  these  magnificent 
scenes  of  nature,  and  in  this  glorious  climate,  600  old  warriors  are  quartered.  The  Vete- 
rans' Home  at  Yountsville  receives  disabled  Californian  soldiers. 

The  Mission  Indians  number  more  than  3,000,  and  occupy  21  little  reservations  in 
Southern  California.  They  are  of  medium  height  and  sturdy  build,  with  flat  faces,  of  a 
ginger-cake  color.  Their  chief  occupation  is  farming,  and  many  earn  good  pay 
as  farm-laborers  and  sheep-shearers.  The  Hoopa  Reservation  covers  140  square  ,, 
miles,  on  the  Trinity  River,  and  contains  463  Indians  of  the 
northwestern  tribes,  mostly  engaged  in  farming.  The  little  Kla- 
math-River  Reservationvhas  220  Indians,  who  excel  in  the  sal- 
mon fisheries.  The  Round- Valley  Reservation,  in  the  northern 
Coast  Range,  with  500  Indians,  has  been  almost  entirely  seized 
by  white  trespassers. 

Education. — The  yearly  school  revenue  is  above  $5,000,- 
ooo.  The  school-property  is  valued  at  $14,000,000;  and  the 
school-fund,  held  by  the  State  Treasurer,  exceeds  $3,000,000. 
The  State  series  of  text-books  are  compiled  and  manufactured 
in  California,  and  sold  to  the  students  at  cost.  The  private 
schools  have  an  attendance  of  21,000  children.  The  normal 
schools  are  at  San  Jose^  Los  Angeles,  and  Chico. 

The  University  of  California  is  the  crown  of  the  educational  institutions  of  the  State.  It 
was  developed  by  State  and  National  gifts,  ugon  a  remarkable  foundation — the  old  Col- 
lege of  California,  established  before  the  close  of 'the  mining  era,  by  Henry  Durant,  Dr. 

Bushnell,  and  other  New-Englanders. 
This  college  maintained  a  standard  of 
scholarship  equal  to  that  of  Yale.  In 
1868  its  trustees  turned  over  the  whole 
institution  to  the  University,  which  was 
then  in  process  of  creation,  and  de- 
voted all  their  energies  to  advancing  the 
interests  of  the  enterprise.  The  Univer- 
sity, under  the  Hatch  Law,  controls 
$15,000  a  year  from  the  National  Gov- 
ernment, for  agricultural  experiment 
stations.  The  State  adds  a  large  ap- 
propriation,  and  the  whole,  under  the 
direction  of  Prof.  E.  W.  Hilgard,  is 
spent  on  four  stations  and  several  sub- 
CAN  FRANCISCO:  THE  PALACE  HOTEL.  stations,  where  many  important  horti- 


LOS  ANGELES  :    Y.    M.    C.   A. 


THE  STATE   OF  CALIFORNIA. 


93 


LICK    OBSERVATORY    TELESCOPE. 


cultural  experiments  are  made.  The  endowment  of  the 
University  represents  $7,000,000.  In  1873  tne  institution 
moved  from  the  old  college  buildings  to  its  present  site  at 
Berkeley,  covering  200  acres  on  the  lower  slopes  of  the  Coast 
Range,  whence  the  view  passes  seaward  through  the  Golden 
Gate.  It  has  upwards  of  400  students,  including  50  women. 
In  the  classical  course  there  are  50 ;  literary,  40 ;  letters  and 
political  science,  106;  agriculture,  14 ;  mechanics,  23 ;  civil 
engineering,  34 ;  chemistry,  23 ;  and  others  are  in  special  stu- 
dents' courses.  There  are  27  professors  and  associate  pro- 
fessors, and  28  other  instructors.  The  schools  of  Dentistry  (50 
students),  Pharmacy  (77),  Law  (76),  and  Medicine  (97),  are 
at  San  Francisco.  No  tuition  is  charged,  save  in  the  profes- 
sional schools. 

The  world-renowned  Lick  Observatory,  and  the  astronomi- 
cal department  of  the  University,  was  founded  by  James  Lick,  a 
Pennsylvanian,  who  made  a  fortune  in  South  America,  and 
vastly  increased  it  in  Californian  real  estate.  He  was  buried  (not  at  his  direction)  in  the  solid 
pier  of  masonry  which  upholds  the  great  telescope,  ordered  in  his  trust  deed  to  be  "superior 
to  and  more  powerful  than  any  telescope  ever  yet  made."  The  United  States  granted  Mount 
Hamilton ;  Santa-Clara  County  built  a  noble  road,  26  miles  long,  from  San  Jose  to  the 
summit ;  and  California  assumed  the  publication  of  the  observations.  The  peak  is  occupied 
by  the  brick  buildings  for  the  observatories,  instruments,  and  library,  and  the  astronomers' 
dwellings.  The  view  includes  the  bays  of  San  Francisco  and  Monterey,  the  lovely  Santa-Cruz 
Mountains,  the  San-Joaquin  Valley,  and  the  colossal  Sierra,  and  Lassen  Butte,  175  miles 
north.  The  telescope  has  an  object-glass  36  inches  in  diameter,  and  a  tube  56  feet  long.  It 
is  the  largest  refractor  ever  made.  Warner  &  Swasey,  of  Cleveland,  (Ohio),  designed  and 
built  the  36-inch  equatorial  telescope,  and  also  the  6-inch  equatorial  and  the  25 -foot  steel 
dome.  The  time-service  of  all  the  Pacific  railways,  from  Ogden  to  El  Paso,  is  given  out 
from  the  Lick  Observatory. 

The  University  of  Southern  California,  founded  by  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church  in 
1880,  has  large  land  endowments,  with  its  colleges  of  letters,  music  and  medicine  in  and  near 
Los  Angeles,  a  theological  school  at  San  Fernando,  and  a  school  of  agriculture  at  Ontario. 

The  Leland  Stanford  Junior  University,  planned  by  Senator  Stanford  as  a  memorial  of 
his  deceased  son,  and  which  he  expects  to  endow  with  $20,000,000,  will  include  a  complete 
system  of  education,  from  the  kindergarten  to  learned  post-graduate  schools,  with  colleges 
of  law,  medicine  and  music,  conducted  by  the  foremost  men  in  these  departments.  The 
present  endowment  consists  of  about  30,000  acres  of  land,  which  cannot  be  sold.  The 
University  is  at  Palo  Alto,  south  of  San  Francisco,  in  a  lovely  pastoral  country,  and  with 
views  of  the  Coast  Range.  Several  of  the  buildings  are  finished,  in  a  grand  Moorish  archi- 
tecture, of  yellow  sandstone.  Shepley,  Rutan  &  Coolidge,  of  Boston,  are  the  architects. 

Among  other  colleges  the  Catholics  have  St.  Vincent's  (1867),  at  Los  Angeles;  St. 
Ignatius  (1855),  at  San  Francisco  ;  the  Jesuit  College,  at  Santa  Clara,  with  178  students ;  the 
College  of  Notre  Dame,  at  San  Diego,  for  Catholic  girls ;  and  the  Franciscan  College,  at 
Santa  Barbara.  The  Methodist-Episcopal 
Church  conducts  the  Pacific  Methodist 
College  (1861),  at  Santa  Rosa;  and  Napa 
College  (1870),  at  Napa  City.  The  Uni- 
versity of  the  Pacific  has  five  large  build- 
ings on  its  domain,  between  San  Jose  and  -, 
Santa  Clara,  with  1 6  instructors  and  188 
students,  besides  235  preparatory  pupils. 

MOUNT   HAMILTON  :    LICK  OBSERVATORY. 


94 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 

The  Cogswell  Polytechnic  College, 
at  San  Francisco,  was  erected  and 
equipped  by  its  founder,  and  is 
maintained  by  the  city.  It  enjoys  an 
endowment  of  $300,000,  and  began 
its  work  in  1888.  At  Woodland  and 
College  City  are  Christian  colleges ; 
and  San-Joaquin  College  is  at  Woodbridge.  The  theological  schools  are  at  San  Rafael 
(Presbyterian;  founded  in  1871,  and  well  endowed);  Benicia  (St.  Augustine's,  Episcopal); 
and  Oakland  (Congregationalist ;  1869;  35  students  in  1890).  The  Hastings  College  of 
Law  belongs  to  the  University  of  California.  There  are  medical  schools  at  San  Francisco, 
Oakland,  and  Los  Angeles,  with  225  students;  and  dental  and  pharmaceutical  colleges  at 
San  Francisco. 

Belmont  School  was  opened  in  1885,  near  Belmont,  on  the  Southern  Pacific  Railroad, 
25  miles  south  of  San  Francisco.  It  was  founded  by  the  present  Head -Master,  W.  T.  Reid 
(Harvard,  1868),  who  resigned  the  Presidency  of  the  University  of  California  for  the  pur- 
pose of  carrying  out  his  long-cherished  plan  of  erecting  a  preparatory  school  for  boys, 
which  should  hold  an  honorable  place  among  the  best  educational  institutions  in  the  coun- 
try. The  location  of  the  school  is  probably  un- 
surpassed as  regards  healthfulness,  beauty,  con- 
venience, and  adaptability.  Its  steadfast  pur- 
poses are  to  offer  thorough  preparation  for  those 
colleges  and  technical  schools  whose  require- 
ments for  admission  are  most  severe ;  to  do  all 
that  it  may  to  quicken  the  moral  and  religious 
sense,  and  strengthen  the  moral  courage ;  and 
to  give  such  attention  to  systematic  physical  cul- 
ture as  shall  contribute  to  good  health  and  a 
vigorous  physical  development.  The  graduates 
of  the  school  have  for  the  most  part  entered 
Harvard,  Yale,  The  University  of  .California,  Cornell  University,  or  the  Massachusetts 
Institute  of  Technology.  No  candidate  from  the  school  has  ever  failed  to  pass  the  exami- 
nations for  which  he  was  recommended  as  prepared,  and  it  is  the  only  private  school  in 
the  State  whose  graduates  are  admitted  to  all  departments  of  the  University  of  California 
without  examination.  Physical  culture  under  the  direction  of  a  special  teacher  of  gymnas- 
tics is  a  stated  requirement,  and  has  a  place  in  the  programme  of  exercises,  the  same  as 
mathematics,  English,  or  any  other  requirement.  Military  drill  is  a  feature  only  as  an 
adjunct  to  the  work  of  physical  culture.  The  discipline  of  the  school  is  very  simple,  and 
entirely  in  the  interest  of  boys  who  are  on  the  whole  well  meaning.  Belmont  does  not 
pretend  to  keep  and  successfully  deal  with  bad  boys,  and  is  perhaps  a  little  intolerant  of 
them,  for  it  insists  on  their  immediate  withdrawal  as  soon  as  their  unruly,  vicious,  or  vul- 
gar dispositions  become  known.  The  school  does  not  attempt  the 
good  work  of  reformation,  and  it  is  not  therefore  a  fitting  place 
for  boys  who  need  what  is  ordinarily  termed  severe 
discipline. 

The  California  Academy  of  Sciences,   founded 
in    1853,    was  endowed  with   $500,000  by  James 
•   Lick,  and  has  large  collections  in  botany,  entomol- 
ogy, birds  and  fishes.     It  occupies  a  fine  Roman- 
esque   building   at   San  Francisco.     The    Mining 
Bureau  has  an  immense  collection  of  Californian 
UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA:  THE  LIBRARY.         ores  and  minerals. 


BELMONT  :    THE    BELMONT    SCHOOL. 


THE  STATE   OF  CALIFORNIA. 


95 


SAN   JOSE  I    COURT-HOUSE. 


Public  libraries  are  found  in  Alameda,  Marysville,  Napa,  Oak- 
land, Petaluma,  Sacramento,  Ventura,  San  Diego,  Santa  Barbara, 
Los  Angeles,  Stockton,  Riverside,  and  other  places.  In 
San  Francisco  the  chief  libraries  are  the  Sutro,  110,000 
volumes;  Free  Public,  70,000;  Mercantile,  60,000;  Ban- 
croft Pacific,  45,000;  Mechanics'  Institute,  45,000;  Odd 
Fellows',  40,000;  and  California  Academy  of  Sciences, 
10,000.  The  State  Library  at  Sacramento  has  70,000; 
the  University  at  Berkeley,  28,000.  Hubert  Howe  Ban- 
croft, the  historian  of  the  Pacific  States,  has  a  fire-proof 
library  at  San  Francisco,  containing  45,000  volumes. 
The  chief  collection  of  paintings  is  the  Crocker  Art  Gal- 
lery, at  Sacramento. 

The  statues  of  California  include  W.  W.  Story's  bronze 
memorial  of  Philip  Barton  Key,  erected  at  San  Francisco  in  1888  ;  D.  C.  French's  heroic  statue 
of  Thomas  Starr  King ;  Mead's  Columbus  before  Isabella,  in  the  Capitol  at  Sacramento  ;  and 
statues  of  John  Howard  Payne,  James  A.  Garfield,  and  Marshall,  the  discoverer  of  gold. 

The  Newspapers  of  California  include  86  dailies  and 
more  than  400  others.  Of  these  15  are  in  German,  seven  in 
French,  four  in  Italian,  three  in  Spanish,  and  two  each  in  Por- 
tuguese, Scandinavian  and  Chinese. 

One  of  the  most  conspicuous  buildings  of  San  Francisco  is 
that  in  which  the  Chronicle  of  that  city  is  housed.  It  is  the 
first  tall  fire-proof  structure  erected  on  the  Pacific  Coast,  and 
attracts  attention,  because  its  enterprising  owner,  M.  H.  de 
Young,  by  his  bold  act  broke  down  a  long-standing  prejudice 
against  high  buildings,  which  was  the  outcome  of  the  fear 
inspired  by  earthquakes.  Since  the  erection  of  the  Chronicle 
Building  this  fear  has  been  entirely  dissipated,  and  other  ten- 
story  edifices  are  being  put  up.  Mr.  de  Young's  enterprising 
character  has  been  displayed  throughout  his  entire  career.  He 
has  made  the  Chronicle  the  foremost  agency  in  the  develop- 
ment of  the  Pacific  Coast,  a,nd  it  now  has  a  circulation  exceed- 
ing 60,000.  He  is  well  known  in  the  political  world,  being  a 


SAN  FRANCISCO  '. 
THE  SAN-FRANCISCO  CHRONICLE. 


member  of  the  Republican  National  Committee  and  a  prominent  candidate 
States  Senator.      He  is  also  one  of  the  Vice-Presidents  of  the  World's 
mission,  and  has  expended  a  great  deal  of  his  surplus  energy  in  the  work 
tion.      The  great  new  building  erected  by  and  for  the  Chronicle  looms 
with   impressive    effect,  with   a   massive   bronze  clock-tower  rising 
above    the   pavement,   and   bearing   the   largest   dials    in    America 
across).     The  entire  structure  is  a  marvel  of  strength,  stability  and 
ness ;  its  wonderful  frame-work  of  steel  and  iron  uniting  with  an  ex- 
stone  and  brick  to  form  an  edifice  proof  at  once  against  fire  and 
earthquake. 

Chief  Cities. —  San  Francisco  is  the  metropolis  of  the 
North  Pacific,  with  almost  the  only  good  harbor  from  Mex- 
ico to  Puget  Sound,  and  seems  destined  to  a  great  expan- 
sion, since  it  must  always  controlthe  imports  and  exports 
and  general  markets  of  the  Great  Valley  and  Nevada.  It 
is  six  miles  from  the  Pacific  Ocean,  and  occupies  the  point 
of  a  long  peninsula,  between  the  bay,  the  ocean,  and  the 
world-renowned  Golden  Gate. 


for    United- 
FairCom- 
of  organiza- 
over  the  city 
208    feet 
(i  6^  feet 
light- 
terior   of 


8AN  FRANCISCO  I  THE  STAR-SPANGLED  BAN- 
NER (OR  KEY'S^  MONUMENT. 


96 


KING'S  PI  AND  BOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 


PALO    ALTO  : 

LELAND    STANFORD  JR. 

UNIVERSITY. 


Among  the  abrupt  heights  which  diversify  the  site 
are  the  Mission  Peaks,  925  feet  high,  and  Russian  and 
Telegraph  Hills.  The  Golden-Gate  Park  has  cost 
$1,000,000,  and  covers  1,013  acres,  out  to 
the  ocean-shore ;  and  the  Cliff  House 
and  Seal  Rocks  and  Sutro  Heights 
are  at  Point  Lobos,  with  the  Presidio 
Reservation  farther  within  the  Gol- 
den Gate.  San  Francisco  is  grow- 
ing rapidly,  with  16  lines  of  cable- 
roads,  steamboats  to  many  points  on 
the  bay  and  rivers,  and  50  steam- 
ships running  to  the  Sandwich  Islands,  and  the  Pacific,  Asiatic  and  Australian  ports.  The 
chief  imports  are  sugar,  tea,  rice,  and  coffee.  The  City  Hall,  begun  in  1871,  has  cost 
$4, 500,000.  This  is  a  wonderfully  cosmopolitan  city,  where  almost  every  civilized  language 
may  be  heard.  Mexican  infantry  marches  down  the  streets  to  celebrate  the  anniversary 
of  the  independence  of  Mexico ;  Italian  societies  commemorate  the  unity  of  Italy ;  the 
Chinese  haul  their  divine  dragon,  100  feet  long,  through  the  streets  of  their  quarter  (where 
20,000  Chinamen  dwell),  amid  an  amazing  din  of  fire-crackers,  drums,  cymbals  and  flutes  ; 
and  Irishmen  celebrate  or  contemn  the  Battle  of  the  Boyne.  The  beautiful  bay,  lined  with 
white  cities  and  reflecting  great  mountain-ranges,  is  traversed  by 
ocean-steamships,  ferry-boats,  and  sailing  vessels,  from  the 
unwieldy  junks  of  the  Chinese  shrimpers  and  the  lateen- 
sailed  feluccas  of  the  Maltese  and  Greek  fishermen  to  the 
towering  white  canvas  of  the  clipper-ships.  The  city 
has  manufactories  of  iron,  glass,  woolens,  blankets, 
cable  and  wire,  flour,  mining  machinery,  cordage,  and  - 
sugar,  employing  7,000  operatives,  with  a  yearly  pro-  j^ 
duct  of  $82,000,000.  The  grain- fleet  ships  1,000,000 
tons  each  year,  and  the  value  of  the  yearly  imports  LOS  ANGELES 
and  exports  is  $150,000,000,  employing  a  large  number  of  steamships  and  packets. 

In  San  Francisco  there  has  just  arisen  a  period  of  grand  and  lofty  buildings.  After  the 
Chronicle  Building  came  the  fine  Mark  Hopkins  Building.  The  superb  D.  O.  Mills  Build- 
ing is  being  erected  at  a  cost  of  $1,250,000.  It  will  be  an  office  structure,  designed  with 
rich  Southern  feeling  in  its  details.  It  will  be  ten  stories  high,  160  by  138  feet,  the  lower 
three  stories  of  white  Inyo  marble,  the  upper  seven  of  delicate  creamy  buff  brick,  and 
terra  cotta  of  the  same  color.  A  main  feature  is  an  elegant  sky-lighted  rotunda,  beautifully 
constructed  of  marble.  Its  appointments  are  to  be  unsurpassed  in  any  office  structure 
on  the  continent,  and  the  Mills  Building  will  remain  for  many  years  one  of  the  notable 
sights  of  the  Pacific  Coast.  Here,  too,  are  the  executive  offices 
of  the  world-famous  Wells,  Fargo  &  Co.  's  express  and  banking 
institutions,  the  express  building  being  very  attractive. 

Sacramento,  83  miles  from  San  Francisco,  on  the  Sacra- 
mento River,  is  the  State  capital,  and  has  the  immense  Pacific- 
Railroad  shops,  besides  manufactories  of  pottery,  flour,  furni- 
ture, and  woolens.  It  is  the  centre  of  a  very  productive  fruit- 
region,  and  ships  more  green  fruit  than  all  the  rest  of  the  State. 
Oakland,  seven  miles  from  San  Francisco,  across  the  bay,  is  a 
beautiful  suburban  city,  embowered  in  flowers  and  semi-tropi- 
cal fruit-trees,  free  from  the  coast  fogs,  and  sheltered  by  the 
Contra-Costa  hills.  Near  it  is  Berkeley,  the  seat  of  the  Univer- 
sity  of  California. 


ARMY    HEADQUARTERS. 


BAN    FRANCISCO  :    WELLS,    FARGO    &    CO. 


THE  STATE   OF   CALIFORNIA. 

The  chief  cities  of  northern  California  are  Peta- 
luma,  Santa  Rosa,  and  Napa,  in  the  wine-producing 
valleys  of  the  Coast  Range ;  Grass  Valley  and  Nevada 
City,  in  the  foot-hills,  with  profitable  gold-mines ; 
Marysville,  the  metropolis  of  the  Yuba  country,  once 
prolific  of  gold,  and  now  of  fruit ;  and  Eureka,  export- 
ing lumber  to  the  ports  of  the  Pacific.  Stockton  is  a 
famous  wheat-market,  with  warehousing  capacity  of 
100,000  tons.  Here  are  electric  cars,  many  mills, 
and  a  costly  granite  court-house.  San  Jose,  47  miles 
south  of  San  Francisco,  is  an  attractive  modern  city,  with  large  parks,  broad  streets,  seven 
newspapers,  many  factories,  and  a  valuation  of  $12,000,000. 

Santa  Barbara,  288  miles  from  San  Francisco,  is  a  famous  watering-place,  overlooking 
the  Pacific,  under  the  lee  of  the  stately  Santa- Ynez  Mountains.  The  mission,  founded  in 
1782,  is  still  a  Franciscan  monastery.  Immense  vultures,  or  condors,  with  a  spread  of 
wings  of  twelve  feet,  haunt  the  Santa- Ynez.  In  this  same  region  is  Camulos,  the  scene 
of  Ramona.  Los  Angeles,  with  its  network  of  railroads  and  motor-roads,  eleven  banks 

and  six  parks,  iron-works  and  other  factories, 
is  1 6  miles  inland.  There  are  water- works, 
electric  lights,  and  costly  public  buildings.  The 
metropolis  of  Southern  California  was  founded 
by  twelve  Spanish  soldiers,  who  named"  it  El 
Pueblo  de  la  Reina  de  los  Angeles,  the  Town  of 
the  Queen  of  the  Angels.  The  mild  and  de- 
lightful climate  of  this  valley  has  made  it  a  san- 
itarium for  thousands  of  Eastern  people,  whose 
pleasant  homes  are  fast  filling  the  region.  The 
San-Gabriel  Valley,  40  by  ten  miles  in  area, 
lies  along  the  base  of  the  Sierra  Madre,  and  is 
occupied  by  ranches  and  villages,  the  chief  of 
which  is  Pasadena,  buried  in  orange-groves  and  rose-thickets,  palms  and  pepper-trees, 
nine  miles  from  Los  Angeles  and  25  miles  from  the  Pacific.  The  wonderfully  equable  cli- 
mate of  this  locality,  and  the  magnificent  scenery  of  the  Sierra,  have  made  it  one  of  the 
foremost  winter-resorts  of  the  world,  with  great  hotels  and  handsome  villas.  In  midwinter 
rich  flowers  and  fruits  fill  the  gardens,  from  whose  fragrant  depths  wild  snow-storms  may  be 
seen  whirling  over  the  Sierra  peaks.  San  Diego  is  480  miles  southeast  of  San  Francisco, 
and  within  four  leagues  of  the  Mexican  frontier.  From  4,000  inhabitants  in  1885  it  rose  to 
30,000  in  1887,  with  all  the  modern  metropolitan  conveniences.  The  noble  harbor  is  the 
seat  of  a  large  ocean  commerce.  The  climate  is  remarkably  equable,  and  thousands  of 
pleasure-tourists  come  here,  and  to 
the  beautiful  trans-harbor  suburb 
of  Coronado  Beach,  whose  hotel 
cost  $1,200,000.  Farther  up  the 
harbor  National  City  overlooks  the 
sea,  with  the  villa-suburb  of  Chula 
Vista  on  the  high  red  mesa  beyond. 
San  Diego  is  the  oldest  city  in  Cali- 
fornia, and  the  ruins  of  Father  Juni- 
pero's  mission  of  1 769  are  still  pre- 
served near  the  Mexican  suburb. 
A  few  miles  back,  at  the  mouth  of 
a  canon,  stands  the  famous  Sweet- 


SAN    FRANCISCO  :    GOLDEN-GATE    PARK. 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 


water  Dam,  one  of  the  largest  in  the  world,  with  a  curving  wall  of  masonry  90  feet  high 
and  46  feet  thick  at  the  base.  The  magnificent  entrance  to  San-Diego  Bay,  the  Silver  Gate, 
leads  into  a  safe  and  capacious  harbor. 

Railroads. — In  1856  the  Sacramento- Valley  Railroad  began  its  works,  from  Sacramento 
to  Folsom.  It  had  23  miles  in  1860.  The  second  road  built  was  from  San  Francisco,  and 
began  running  in  1863,  and  reached  the  State  line  in  January,  1868,  and  Ogden  in  May,  1869. 
This  triumph  of  modern  engineering  crosses  the  Sierra  7,042  feet  above  the  sea.  The  Cen- 
tral Pacific  is  274  miles  long,  from  Oakland  to  the  State  line ;  and  872  miles  to  Ogden, 
where  it  meets  the  Union  Pacific.  Its  Oregon  Branch  runs  from  Rosewell  up  the  Sacra- 
mento Valley,  by  Marysville,  Chico,  and  Tehama  to  the  Oregon  line  (296  miles),  and  then 


land.  Another  line  follows  the 
to  Tehama,  101  miles.  South- 
single  track  runs  from  Lathrop, 
outlet  to  the  raisin-country, 
in  effect  controls  the  lines  from 
ing  Texas,  New  Mexico  and 


AN  FRANCISCO  :    THE    PROPOSED    NEW    CITY    HALL. 


down  the  Umpqua  and  Willamette  valleys  to  Port- 
western  side  of  the  Great  Valley  from  Woodland 
ward  for  146  miles  up  the  San-Joaquin  Valley  a 
near  Stockton,  to  Goshen,  near  Visalia,  giving  an 
The  Southern-Pacific  Railroad  Company  now 
New  Orleans  to  the  Columbia  River.  After  cross- 
Arizona,  the  line  enters 
California  at  Yuma,  and 
swings  down  along  the 
San-Bernardino  Moun- 
tains, to  Los  Angeles, 
Santa  Monica  and  Santa 
Barbara.  By  its  lines 
down  the  San-Joaquin 
Valley  this  route  is  prolonged  to  San  Francisco  and  Oregon.  The  rails  cross  the  Tahichipi 
Pass,  where  the  Sierra  Nevada  and  the  Coast  Range  meet  in  a  tangle  of  peaks,  by  one  of 
the  most  famous  and  dexterous  pieces  of  engineering  in  the  world.  Another  section  of 
the  Southern  Pacific  runs  from  San  Francisco  to  San  Jose,  Santa  Cruz  and  Monterey,  and 
then  up  the  long  Salinas  Valley,  amid  the  fastnesses  of  the  Coast  Range.  The  California 
Southern  Railroad  connects  National  City  and  San  Diego  with  Oceanside,  San  Bernardino 
and  Barstow,  a  line  of  21 1  miles  of  track.  The  Atlantic  &  Pacific  Railroad  crosses  the 
Colorado  River  at  the  Needles,  and  meets  the  Southern  at  Barstow,  and  the  Southern 
Pacific  at  Mojave.  This  is  the  famous  Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa-Fe  route,  practically 
beginning  at  Chicago,  and  traversing  the  great  southwestern  section  of  the  Republic. 

The  Carson  &  Colorado  narrow-gauge  line  comes  down  out  of  Nevada,  in  the  tremend- 
ous volcanic  and  silver-bearing  gorge  between  the  Sierra  Nevada  and  the  Inyo  Range,  and 
stops  at  Keeler,  on  Owen's  Lake.  The  lovely  and  serene  valleys  north  of  San  Francisco 
are  traversed  by  several  railways,  with  a  single  strand  flying  far  north  to  Ukiah. 

Insurance. — The  rapid  development  of  property  necessitated 
the  forming  of  a  local  insurance  interest;  and  in  1862  a  num- 
ber of  San-Francisco  gentlemen  filed  incorporation. papers  for 
an  insurance  company,  which  was  organized  during  the  follow- 
ing year.  It  took  the  name  of  the  Fireman's  Fund  Insurance 
Company,  designing  to  give  a  part  of  its  profits  to  the  charity 
fund  of  the  local  fire  department.  The  Chicago  fire  inflicted 
on  the  company  a  loss  of  over  $500,000 ;  the  Boston  fire  $200,- 
ooo ;  and  the  Virginia-City  fire,  $164,000.  All  these  disasters 
were  promptly  met ;  and  the  capital  of  the  company  has  ad- 
vanced from  $200,000  to  $1,000,000,  with  assets  of  $2,500,000. 
For  the  past  1 5  years  this  solid  corporation  has  never  skipped  a 
dividend,  and  its  name  is  favorably  known  in  every  city  of  the 
FIREMAN'S  FUND  INSURANCE  co.  East,  where  it  is  represented  by  many  active  agents. 


THE  STATE   OF  CALIFORNIA. 


SAN    FRANCISCO   AND    ITS    HARBOR,   AND    THE    GOLDEN    GATE. 

Finance. — The  commercial  banks  of  California  have  deposits  amounting  to  $42,000,- 
ooo;  the  savings  banks  hold  $100,000,000.  The  State  and  its  chief  city,  San  Francisco, 
are  practically  out  of  debt. 

The  Pacific  Bank  of  San  Fr.ancisco  is  the  oldest  chartered  commercial  bank  on  the 
Pacific  Coast,  and  has  a  capital  and  reserve  of  $1,800,000,  and  resources  of  above  $5, 000,000. 
Within  25  years  it  has  paid  to  its  stockholders  $1,500,000  in  dividends;  and  its  stock  is 
held  at  $180  a  share.  The  business  transacted  by  this  institution  exceeds  $225,000,000 
a  year,  and  is  constantly  growing  in  volume.  The  bank  was  founded  by  a  number  of  con- 
servative capitalists,  in  1863,  during  the  period  of  wild  speculation  in  mining  stocks,  and 
arrested  attention  immediately  by  refusing  mining  stock  as  collateral,  and  avoiding  dealing 
with* brokers  and  speculators  in  these  stocks.  Adhering  to  this  brave  policy,  the  corpora- 
tion has  advanced  slowly  but  steadily,  first  under  the  leadership  of  Gov.  Peter  H.  Burnett 
(from  1863  to  1880),  and  ever  since  under  the  presidency  of  Dr.  R.  H.  McDonald,  who 
is  also  famous  as  an  enthusiastic  worker  in  the  temperance  cause. 

The  extraordinary  growth  of  California  has  resulted  in  the  natural  development  of  a 

__ State  of  great  resources,   aided  very  materially  by  the 

I  influx  of  well-to-do  immigrants  and  investors  from  all 
over  the  United  States.  San  Francisco  is  the  great  me- 
tropolis and  financial  centre  of  the  Pacific  Coast,  and 
has  developed  an  important  line  of  business  in  the  way 
of  real  estate.  The  leader  in  this  strong  department  of 
Pacific-Coast  commercial  affairs  is  the  representative  firm 
of  Easton,  Eldridge  &  Co.,  the  largest  real-estate  house 
on  the  Coast  and  the  peer  of  representative  houses  in  this 
line  of  business  in  the  world.  Their  operations  are  in- 
cluded in  the  buying  and  selling  of  land,  placing  of 
SAN  FRANCISCO  :  PACIFIC  BANK.  capital  for  purchases  or  for  loan,  and  subdividing  of  par- 


100 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 


SAN    FRANCISCO 

ELDRIDGE    &    CO. 


eels  of  property  throughout  the  State  (and  in  this  department  they 
have  been  identified  with  the  leading  colonization  projects  of  the  Pa- 
cific Coast).  In  the  excursion  department  special  trains  are  run 
kii  to  different  points,  that  new-comers  may  view  California  at  a  mod- 
J  erate  rate  for  transportation.  The  archives  of  the  firm,  which  date 
back  to  the  incorporation  of  the  city,  are  open  to  inspectors.  The 
management  is  Wendell  Easton,  President ;  Geoi'ge  W.  Frink, 
Vice-President ;  F.  B.  Wilde,  Secretary;  and  the  Anglo-California 
Bank  of  San  Francisco,  Treasurer.  The  firm  has  its  principal  offices 
in  San  Francisco,  with  ten  departments  in  as  many  Californian 
cities,  and  40  sub-agencies,  with  200  employees.  This  vast  and 
complicated  business  is  conducted  with  a  thorough  system,  and  has 
achieved  results  of  astonishing  magnitude  and  success. 

Nowhere  else  have  so  many  extensive  colonies  been  successfully 
EASTON,  planned  and  started  as  in  California,  much  of  whose  prosperity  is  due 
to  the  scientific  skill  with  which  its  settlements  have  been  established. 
Among  the  interesting  developments  of  Pacific-Coast  industry  connected  with  the  sea 
is  the  plant  of  the  Tubbs  Cordage  Company,  covering  sixteen  acres  in  the  Potrero  Nuevo 
district  of  San  Francisco,  This  business  began  away  back  in  1858,  when  Alfred  L.  and 
Hiram  Tubbs  united  their  energies  for  its  upbuilding.  The  local  demand  for  many  years 
was  largely  supplied  from  these  rope-walks,  the  first  established  on  the  coast,  and  equipped 
for  the  manufacture  of  all  kinds  of  cordage, 
from  the  hemp  of  Manila,  Sisal  and  New 
Zealand.  In  the  Tubb  works  200  men  and 
boys  are  engaged,  aided  by  ingenious  hemp- 
spinning  and  other  machines,  whose  patents 
are  owned  or  controlled  by  the  company. 
The  Tubbs  family  are  among  the  foremost 
representatives  of  the  successful  and  conser- 
vative early  settlers  of  California,  and  are 

identified  with  many  of  its  leading  social  and  SAN  FRANCISCO  :  TUBBS  CORDAGE  co. 

commercial  interests.      Their  industrial  enterprise  has  been  continuously  successful. 

One  of  the  great  silk-mills  of  Belding  Bros.  &  Co.  has  been  established  at  San  Fran- 
cisco, and  controls  a  large  trade  on  the  Pacific  Coast. 

San  Bernardino  is  the  capital  of  the  largest  county  in  the  United  States,  much- of  whose 
area  belongs  to  the  hopeless  Mohave  Desert.  The  valley  of  1, 600  square  miles  near  the 
shire-town  brings  forth  abundantly  of  wine,  grapes  and  oranges.  Indio,  below  the  sea-level, 
is  celebrated  for  the  astonishing  cures  of  pulmonary  troubles,  wrought  by  its  dry,  pure  air. 
The  most  recent  development  of  settlement  in  California  has  taken  place  in  the  counties  of 
Tulare  and  Fresno,  in  the  southern  part  of  the  Great  Valley,  where  an  enormous  product 
of  raisins  is  already  being  harvested.  The  United- States  Census  Bulletin  of  1890  on  Viticul- 
ture, estimates  that  the  yearly  California  raisin-crop  of  five  years  hence  will  reach  from 

8,000,000  to  10,000,000  boxes  (of  20  pounds  each). 
Tulare  City,  the  metropolis  of  these  two  counties,  stands 
on  the  Kaweah  Delta,  between  the  foot-hills  and  Tulare 
Lake,  about  midway  between  San  Francisco  and  Los 
Angeles.  The  extensive  irrigation-canals  of  Tulare  and 
Fresno,  and  of  the  neighboring  Kern  County,  are  re- 
deeming vast  areas  of  the  richest  soil,  in  an  absolutely 
frostless  climate.  The  development  of  this  domain 
adds  greatly  to  the  capacity  of  California  for  bringing 
AN  FRANCISCO:  BELDING  SILK  FACTORY.  forth  the  pleasant  fruits  of  the  earth. 


5TATE  CAPITOL  •  DENVER 


34,277 
39,864 
194,327 
191,126 


HISTORY. 

"  Colorado,  rare  Colo- 
rado! Yonder  she  rests; 
her  head  of  gold  pillowed 
on  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, her  feet  in  the 
brown  grass,  the  bound- 
less plains  for.  a  play- 
ground; she  is  set  on  a 
hill  before  the  world, 
and  the  air  is  very  clear, 

so  that  all  may  see  her  well." — JOAQUIN  MILLER. 

The  first   American   to   enter  Colorado  was  Lieut. 

Zebulon  M.  Pike,  U.  S.  A. ,  who  led  a  military  exploring 

party  here   in   1806,    soon    after  the    Government   had 

purchased    Louisiana  and   an  indefinite  western  region 

from  France.      He  was  captured  by  Spanish  troops  and 

taken  to  Chihuahua.      Pike's  Peak,  for  many  decades 

the  beacon  of  western  civilization,  will  forever  perpetu- 
ate his  memory;  and  Long's  Peak  similarly  honors  Maj. 

S.  H.  Long,  who  explored  parts  of  Colorado  in   1820. 

About   the  year   1840  Mexico  made  a  grant  of  a  vast 

area  of  land  in  the  Las-Animas  region,   to  Cols.  Vigil 

and    St.  Vrain ;    and  a  little  later   Bent   established   a 

trading-post  on  the  Arkansas  River.      In  1844  Fremont 

explored  North,  Middle  and  South  Parks,  which  were 

afterwards  visited  by  a  few  French  fur-traders. 

Colorado  west  of  the  Continental  Divide  belonged 

to  Mexico,  and  was  ceded  to  the  United  States  in  1848, 

and  became  part  of  the  new  Territory  of  Utah.      Colo- 
rado east  of   the  Divide  lay  in  the  huge  province   of 

Louisiana,  a  part  of   New  France,    ceded  to  Spain  in 

1763,  restored  to  France  in  1801,  and  sold  to  the  United 

States  in  1803.      From  then  until   1 812  it  lay  in  Louisi- 
ana Territory ;    after  that   in   Missouri  Territory ;  and 

from  1854  in  Nebraska  and  Kansas  Territories.     The  region  south  of  the  Arkansas  River 

belonged  to  the  Republic  of  Texas   from  its  foundation  until   it   became  merged  in    the 

United   States,  when   part   of    it   was   annexed   to   New   Mexico,    and   part    to   Kansas. 


STATISTICS. 

Settled  at Conejos. 

Settled  in 1840 

Founded  by    .  - .     .    .    .       Mexicans. 
Admitted  to  the  U.  S.,     .     .  1876 


Population  in  1860, 
In  1870, 
In  1880 
White, 
Colored  .........        3,201 

American-born,    .....    154,537 

Foreign-born,  ......      39,79° 

Males.     ........     129,131 

Females,     .......      65,196 

In  1800  (census)  ......     412,198 

Population  to  the  square  mile  (1880)    1.9 
Voting  Population,      .... 

Vote  for  Harrison  (1888),       .       50.774 

Vote  for  Cleveland  (1888),     .      37,567 

State  Debt  ........  o 

Assessed    Valuation    of 

Property  (1890),    .     .     .     $189,000,000 
Banks,    ........ 

Deposits  ........ 

Savings  Banks,  ...... 

Deposits,     ....... 

Area  (square  miles),    ....     103,925 

U.  S.  Representatives  (1893),  .  2 

M-ilitia  (Disciplined),       ...  780 

Counties,         .......  55 

Post-offices,    .......  682 

Railroads  (miles)  ......        4,291 

Capital  ......... 

Gross  Yearly  Earnings,  .     . 
Manufactures  (yearly,  1880),  $14,260,159 
Operatives  .......        5,074 

Yearly  \Vages,    .     .     .        $2,314,527 

Farm  Land  (acres,  in  1880),     .  1,126,585 

Farm-Land  Values,      .       $25,109,223 

.Farm  Products  (yearly),  .    $5,000,000 

Colleges  and  Professional  Schools,      4 

School-Population  .....      85,824 

School-Attendance  .....      35,  ^67 

Newspapers,       ......          270 

Latitude  .......  37°'  to  41°  N. 

Longitude  .....    IO26  to  109°  W. 

Temperature  .....    —37°  to  105° 

Mean  Temperature  (Denver),  48° 

TEN  CHIEF   PLACES   AND   THEIR  POPU- 
LATIONS.    (Census  ot   1890.) 


Denver 

Pueblo  ...... 

Leadville, 
Colorado  Springs, 
Trinidad 
Highlands  (town), 
Aspen, 
Boulder, 
Bessemer  (town), 


106,713 
24,558 
10,384 
11,140 
5,523 
5,  161 
5,108 
3,330 
3,317 


Canon  City,    .......        2,825 


102 


KING'S  HAND  BOOK  OF    THE   UNITED   STATES. 


As  early  as  1852,  wandering  Cherokees  discov- 
ered gold  near  the  foot-hills  ;  but  it  was  not  until 
1858  thatW.  Green  Russell's  party  of  Georgians, 
and  a  company  from  Kansas,  began  to  wash  gold 
from  the  sands  of  the  South  Platte  River.  In 
May,  1859,  John  H.  Gregory  discovered  gold  at 
Black  Hawk.  When  the  news  of  these  treasures 
of  the  mountains  reached  the  East,  a  vast  and 
tumultuous  migration  began  across  the  untrodden 
Peak  became  the  magnet  of  thousands  of  brave 


COLORADO   SPRINGS,    AND    PIKE'S    PEAK. 


plains,  and  the  serene  and  lonely  Pike's 
adventurers. 

In  1 86 1,  in  order  to  make  up  the  new  Territory  of  Colorado,  nearly  70,000,000  acres 
were  taken  from  Utah,  New  Mexico,  Kansas  and  Nebraska,  the  foresight  of  Gov.  Gilpin 
securing  the  western  slope  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  The  constitutions  drafted  in  1859 
and  1863  were  rejected  by  the  people ;  but  in  1865  they  adopted  one,  and  Congress  passed 
a  bill  admitting  the  Territory  to  the  Union.  President  Johnson  vetoed  this  document,  and 
for  eleven  years  longer  the  people  remained  under  a  Territorial  government.  When  the 
late  civil  war  broke  out  Colorado  sent  into  the  National  army  two  regiments  of  cavalry, 
a  regiment  of  infantry  and  a  battery,  besides  raising  consider-  ^ 

able  forces  for  home-defence.  Threatened  by  Confederates  on 
one  side  and  Indians  on  the  other,  many  pioneers  returned  j 
to  the  East,  and  ambitious  cities  vanished.  Sibley's  Confed- 
erate invasion  of  New  Mexico,  in  1861,  had  for  its  chief  object 
an  advance  to  the  Platte  Valley  and  the  occupation  of  the  forts 
as  far  north  as  Laramie.  Thus  the  Pacific  States  would  be 
cut  away  from  the  Republic,  and  the  overland  routes  closed. 
This  deadly  peril  was  averted  by  the  Colorado  volunteers, 
who  did  not  wait  for  the  invaders  to  reach  their  country,  but 
advanced  into  New  Mexico,  and  met  and  checked  the  triumph- 
ant Confederates  at  La  Glorietta  (Apache  Canon). 

After  the  war  a  new  tide  of  immigration  flowed  into  the 
Territory,  and  developed  its  resources  rapidly  and  securely.  The 
Ute  Indians,  formerly  sole  lords  of  the  domain,  were  concentrated  upon  the  White-River, 
Uncompahgre  and  Southern  Reservations,  whence  most  of  them  have  been  removed  to  Utah. 
The  name  Colorado  is  the  past  participle  of  the  Spanish  verb,  colorar,  "  to  color,"  with 
a  secondary  meaning  of  "ruddy"  or  "blushing";  and  was  originally  applied  by  the 
Spaniards  to  the  Colorado  River,  whose  water  is  red  in  hue,  when  swollen  by  heavy  rains, 
from  the  disintegration  of  the  reddish  soils  through  which  it  flows.  A  popular  nickname 
of  Colorado  is  THE  CENTENNIAL  STATE,  because  it  was  admitted  to  the  Union  in  the  hun- 
dredth year  after  the  signing  of  the  Declaration  of  Independence.  It  is  also  called  The 
Silver  State.  The  older  title  of  The  Btiffalo- Plains  State  is  now  meaningless,  since  the  extinc- 
tion of  the  bison.  The  people  living  here  used  to  be  called  Pike^s-Peakers. 

The  Arms  of  Colorado  include  a  shield,  with 
a  miner's  pick  and  mallet  crossed,  and  a  range  of 
snowy  mountains.  The  motto  is  NIL  SINE 
NUMINE,  Latin  words  meaning  :  "Nothing  with- 
out God." 

The    Governors    of    Colorado    have    been  : 
Territorial:   Wm.  Gilpin,  1 86 1-2  ;   John  Evans, 
1862-5;  Alex.   Cummings,  1865-7;  A.  Cameron 
Hunt,    1867-9;   Edward  M.   McCook,    1869-73; 
LONG'S  PEAK.  Samuel    H.    Elbert,    1873-4;    John    L.    Routt, 


GRAY'S    PEAK. 


THE  STATE   OF   COLORADO. 


103 


SIERRA    BLANCA. 


1874-6;  State:  J.  L.  Routt,  1877-9;  F.  W.  Pitkin,  1879-83; 

Jas.  B.  Grant,  1883-5  ;  Benj.  H.  Eaton,  1885-7;  Alva  Adams, 

1887-9  ;  Job  A.  Cooper,  1889-91  ;  and  J.  L.  Routt,  1891-3. 

Geography. — Colorado  covers  an  area  equal  to  New  Eng- 
land and  Ohio   combined.     Its  three   chief  divisions  are  the 

Plains,  the  Foot-hills,  and  the  Rocky  Mountains.     The  Great 

Plains  ascend  from  Kansas  to  the  Foot-hills,  a  vast  open  region  of 

low  ridges  and  valleys,  and  at  a  general  height  of  5,000  feet 

above  the  sea.     Everywhere  the  face  of  the  country  is  covered 

with  gorgeous  wild  flowers ;   and  modern  irrigating  processes 

are   converting   it   into   a   rich   garden   of    agriculture.     The 

Divide  is  a  ridge  7,500  feet  above  the  sea,  running  eastward 

from  the  Front  Range,  and  separating  the  Platte  and  Arkansas 

waters.     The  Great  Plains  were  originally  treeless,  save  where 

belts  of  cottonwoods  and  aspens  followed  the  courses  of  the 

rivers  ;  but  since  the  advance  of  population  hitherward,  myriads  of  trees  have  been  planted 

along  the  bare  uplands.     The  Foot-hills  run  north  and  south,  from  30  to  50  miles  wide,  with 

a  height  of  from  6,500  to  8,000  feet,  diversified  and  broken  in  their  outlines,  and  generally 

abounding  in  timber  and  water.     They  contain  many  fertile  valleys  and  grazing  districts, 

and  are  rich  in  minerals,  clays,  and  building  stone. 

The  Rocky  Mountains  form  the  Continental 
Divide,  or  water-shed,  and  traverse  Colorado  from 
north  to  south  and  southwest,  with  many  tributary 
ranges.  This  magnificent  labyrinth  has  two-score 
peaks  of  above  14,000  feet,  and  nearly  200  exceed- 
ing 13,000.  For  150  miles  north  and  south,  from 
Gunnison  to  North  Park,  the  mountain-mass  is  120 
miles  wide,  and  includes  the  Front,  Park  and  Saguache 
Ranges.  The  Front  Range  is  the  eastern  line  of 
peaks,  visible  for  scores  of  miles  over  the  lonely 
plains  toward  the  Mississippi,  and  forming  a  vast 
and  impressive  line  of  mountains,  broken  by  several 

summits  which  over-tower  the  great  wall.       It  is  120  miles  long,  beginning  on  the  south  at 

the  famous  Pike's  Peak.     The  Ute,  Loveland,  Berthoud  and  Boulder  Passes  cross  at  high 

altitudes.     Mounts  Evans,   Rosalie,  and   Torrey,   and   Gray's 

Peak  (14,341   feet)  and  Long's  Peak  (14,271),  are  the  signal 

points   of    this   noble   range ;    and    Mount    Audubon,    James 

Peak,  the  Arrapahoe    Peaks  and  others  are  hardly  less  lofty. 

Pike's    Peak    (14,147    feet    high)    for    many   years    gave    its 

name  to  all  Colorado.     Its  summit  is  reached  by  a  long  car- 
riage-road, and  also  by  a  mountain-railway,  built  in  1890;  and 

is  the  seat  of  a  station  of   the  U.-S.  Signal    Service.     The 

views   from   this   point,    and   from   the   oft-ascended    Gray's, 

Long's  and  other  peaks,  are  of  immense  extent  and  amazing 

grandeur.     Across  the  great  elliptical  bowls  of  the  parks  is  the 

Park  Range,  running  from  beyond  Hahn's  Peak,  in    the  north, 

south  to  the  Arkansas  Valley,  and  culminating  around  Mount 

Lincoln  and  Quandary  Peak,   of  above    14,000  feet  each,  and 

surrounded   by  twenty   other    crests    exceeding    13,000    feet. 

The    Blue-River    Range,   twenty  miles   north,   has   a   line   of 

tremendous  peaks,  culminating  in  Mount  Powell. 

The  great  continental  water-shed  between  the  Atlantic  and      GRAND  CANON  OF  THE  ARKANSAS. 


SULTAN    MOUNTAIN. 


I04  KING^S   HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 

Pacific  follows  the  Front  Range  south  to  Gray's  Peak,  and  then  bends  westward  for  20 
miles,  between  Middle  Park  and  South  Park,  including  the  Tennessee  Pass  (10,418  feet 
high),  and  then  merging  into  the  Saguache  Range,  the  Colorado  extension  of  the  Sierra 
Madre  of  Mexico.  This  range  has  a  height  of  above  13,000  feet  for  80  miles,  termi- 
nating on  the  north  at  the  majestic  Mountain  of  the  Holy  Cross.  It  is  a  vast  mass  of 

granite,  nearly  a  score  of  miles  broad.  The  Saguache  is 
one  of  the  loftiest  and  most  conspicuous  of  the  Rocky- 
Mountain  ranges,  and  its  dominating  peaks  exceed  14,000 
feet  in  height,  rising  in  bristling  groups  around  passes 
above  12,000  feet  high.  On  the  east  is  the  rugged  valley 
of  the  Arkansas ;  and  the  Gunnison  Valley  opens  away  to 
the  westward.  The  Mountain  of  the  Holy  Cross  bears  on 
its  side  two  snow-filled  ravines,  cutting  each  other  at  right 
angles,  and  forming  a  vast  cruciform  deposit  of  glittering 
snow,  visible  from  a  great  distance.  The  trappers  and 
explorers  of  the  early  days  gave  its  name  to  this  noble 
mountain.  Near  Buena  Vista  rise  the  three  college 
peaks,  Harvard  (14,375  feet)»  Yale  (I4,203)  and  Princeton 
(14,196).  Between  Holy  Cross  and  Harvard,  Mount  Mas- 
sive, Mount  Elbert  and  La-Plata  Peak  each  rise  above 
14,000  feet ;  and 
Antero,  Ourayand 

MOUNTAIN  OF  THE  HOLY  CROSS.        other  peaks  in  the 
south   also    exceed    this    height.     South   of    the    II 
Saguache,  beyond  the  Marshall  Pass,  the  Conti-    L— 
nental  Divide  runs  for  75  miles  southwest  over  a 
plateau,  by  the  Cochetopa  Hills,   and  then  rises 
into  the  Sierra  San  Juan,  passing  southeast  to  the 
San- Luis  Park,   with  many  peaks  above    13,000 
/eet  high. 

The  Sangre-de-Cristo  Range  is  almost  a  continuation  of  the  Saguache,  from  which  it 
is  separated  only  by  the  Poncho  Pass,  9,000  feet  high.  Its  magnificent  Sierra  Blanca  is 
the  loftiest  summit  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  reaching  an  altitude  of  14,463  feet,  in  white 
granite  pinnacles  amid  snow  and  ice.  Beyond  the  Veta  Pass,  and  continuous  witfc  the 
Sangre-de-Cristo,  the  Culebra  Range  descends  into  New  Mexico,  ending  near  Santa  Fe. 
The  high  Raton  Hills  run  eastward  from  the  Culebra,  along  the  New-Mexican  line.  A 

few  leagues  north  a  short  range  pushes  out  towards 
the  plains,  culminating  in  the  majestic  cones  of  the 
Spanish  Peaks,  long  ago  the  landmarks  for  way- 
farers and  caravans  on  the  Santa-Fe  trail.  Else- 
where the  Greenhorn  Range  shelters  Pueblo ;  the 
Rampart  Range  runs  north  from  Pike's  Peak  ;  and 
the  Sierra  jVIojada  (or  Wet  Mountains)  runs  north- 
east from  the  Huerfano  River,  including  the  Rosita 
and  Silver-Cliff  mining  districts.  The  Uncompahgre 
Mountains  in  southwestern  Colorado  begin  at  the 
FREMONT  PASS.  tremendous  volcanic  crest  of  Uncompahgre  Peak 

(14,235  feet),  and  are  prolonged  by  the  Sierra  La  Plata,  to  the  canons  of  the  Rio  Mancos. 
This  wild  region  has  ten  summits  of  above  14,000  feet.  The  Elk  Mountains  run  south- 
west 30  miles  from  the  Saguache  Range,  a  vast,  confused  and  contorted  volcanic  upheaval 
of  strata,  with  a  lofty  line  of  pinnacles  ten  leagues  long.  Among  the  most  famous  crests 
are  Castlepeak  (14,106  feet  high),  Maroon  (14,000),  Capitol  (I3,992)>  Snowmass  (i3,96l)» 


MIDDLE    PARK. 


THE  STATE   OF  COLORADO. 


105 


and   flows  into   Wyoming,    where  part 

r~~  ,  PI 


GRAND-RIVER    CANON. 


Whiterock  (13,847),  Sopris  (12,972),  and  Gothic  (12,491).  A  number  of  the  mining  towns 
are  at  great  altitudes  among  the  Rockies.  Caribou's  elevation  is  9,905  feet ;  George- 
town's, 8,514;  Leadville's,  10,247;  ano^  the  Present-Help  Mine  (on  Mount  Lincoln), 
14,200.  There  are  at  least  a  dozen  villages  above  the  altitude  of  10,000  feet,  including 
Alma,  Alicante,  Fairplay,  Kokomo,  Mineral  City,  Montezuma,  Montgomery,  Summit  Mines, 
Animas  Forks,  Irwin,  Robinson,  and  Ruby  Camp. 

The  parks  of  Colorado  are  ancient  lake-basins,  walled  in 
by  stupendous  mountain-ranges,  and  composed  of  beautiful 
undulating  regions  of  dells  and  hillsides,  with  bright  lakes 
and  streams,  shadowy  woods,  and  a  varied  and  abundant 
vegetation  of  forests,  flowers  and  grasses.  They  run  nearly 
the  whole  length  of  the  State,  just  west  of  the  Front  Range, 
with  an  average  width  of  50  miles,  and  are  separated  from 
each  other  by  high  mountains.  The  wildest  and  least  in- 
habited of  these  great  sierra-girt  valleys  is  North  Park, 
whose  2,500  square  miles  of  wooded  hill-sides  and  meadows 
of  buffalo-grass  and  sage-brush  lie  alongside  of  the  Continental 
Divide.  The  North  Platte  River  takes  its  rise  here,  amid 
forests  haunted  by  deer  and  antelopes,  wolves  and  bears ; 

of  North  Park  lies. 
Southward,  across 
the  narrow  and  lofty 

Continental  Divide,  Middle  Park  covers  3,000 
square  miles  of  pleasant  vales  and  wooded  hills, 
9,000  feet  above  the  sea,  and  environed  on  three 
sides  by  magnificent  snowy  ranges,  Long's  Peak, 
Gray's  Peak,  and  their  lofty  brethren.  Middle 
Park  forms  Grand  County,  whose  shire-town  is 
on  the  shore  of  the  deep  Grand  Lake,  amid  the 
frowning  defiles  of  the  Front  Range.  South 
Park,  the  most  attractive  of  the  series,  is  a  lovely 
vale  40  miles  long,  walled  in  by  the  Rampart 
Range  on  the  east  and  the  snowy  Park  Range  on  the  west,  and  watered  by  the  silvery 
streams  of  the  South  Platte.  This  mountain-girt  amphitheatre,  with  its  wonderful  variety 
and  richness  of  scenery,  is  traversed  by  several  railways  and  dotted  with  villages,  mines  and 
farms.  Its  average  height  is  9,000  feet  above  the  sea. 
The  San-Luis  Park  covers  9,400  square  miles, 
walled  in  by  the  Sangre-de-Cristo  and  Culebra 
ranges  on  the  east,  and  on  the  west  by  the  Sierra 
San  Juan.  Here  the  Rio  Grande  del  Norte  takes 
its  rise,  amid  noble  forests.  The  settlers  are  Mexi- 
cans and  New-Englanders.  The  northern  part  is 
called  the  Rincon,  and  has  a  broad  lake  and  a 
savanna,  fed  by  a  score  of  mountain-torrents,  and 
surrounded  by  leagues  of  peat.  This  upper  and 

wider  section  of  the  park   abounds   in   dead  lakes  MARSHALL  PASS. 

and  failing  streams,  and  its  sandy  soil  can  be  cultivated  only  under  artificial  irrigation. 
The  Saguache,  Carnero,  La  Garita  and  other  streams  pour  their  mountain-born  waters 
into  the  San-Luis  and  other  small  lakes  without  outlets. 

The  valley  of  the  Grand  and  Gunnison  rivers  and  Roaring  Fork  received  their  first 
pioneers  in  1880,  trudging  on  the  rude  trail  over  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  bearing 
their  flour  and  provisions  on  their  backs.  Since  then  this  vast  area  has  developed 


CHICAGO    LAKE. 


r 


io6 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 


greatly,  having  inexhaustible  fields  of  coal,  iron,  lead,  copper  and  silver,  and  large  areas 
of  rich  soil. 

The  rivers  of  Colorado  are  unnavigable  torrents,  flowing  down  out  of  the  mountains, 
with  flashing  cascades  and  other  beauties.  Here  the  Platte, 
Arkansas,  Rio  Grande  and  Colorado  are  born,  and  the  Repub- 
lican and  Smoky-  Hill  Forks  of  the  Kansas.  On  the  east  the 
waters  are  skillfully  availed  of  for  the  irrigation  of  the  otherwise 
arid  plains.  The  North  Platte  gathers  its  waters  from  the  Con- 
tinental Divide  in  North  Park.  The  South  Platte  is  born  at 
Montgomery,  on  Buckskin  Mountain,  11,176  feet  high,  and 
crosses  the  South  Park,  descending  6,000  feet  before  reaching 
Denver.  The  springs  of  the  Arkansas  are  in  the  Tennessee 
Pass,  and  for  scores  of  miles  it  flows  like  a  silver  thread  at  the 
bottom  of  a  canon  over  a  thousand  feet  deep,  culminating  at  the 
Royal  Gorge,  near  Caflon  City.  The  Arkansas  flows  across  the 
Plains  southeast  for  500  miles  in  Colorado,  receiving  the  waters 
of  the  Greenhorn,  Huerfano,  Apisha,  Purgatory,  Cimmaron,  Fon- 
taine-qui-Bouille  and  fifty  other  streams.  The  Purgatory  River 
NEEDLE  PEAKS,  ANiMAs  CANON,  traverses  a  wonderful  canon  50  miles  long,  with  walls  800  to 
1,000  feet  high,  amid  whose  gloomy  shadows  (if  tradition  may  be  believed)  an  entire 
Spanish  regiment  was  lost.  The  Rio  Grande  del  Norte  rises  in  the  Sierra  San-Juan, 
and  flows  east  and  south  through  the  San-Luis  Valley,  and  into  New  Mexico.  Routt 

County,  in  the  northwest,  is  traversed  by  the 
Yampah  River  for  100  miles,  rising  in  the  Park 
Range,  and  at  last  rushing  through  the  dark 
Yampah  Canon,  into  Green  River.  Grand  River 
flows  from  Middle  Park  350  miles  southwest 
through  the  weird  Plateau  country,  receiving  the 
Gunnison  and  Dolores,  and  then  uniting  with  the 
Green  River  to  form  the  Colorado  of  the  West. 
White  River  lies  between  the  Yampah  and  Grand, 
amid  the  singular  and  deeply  interesting  forma- 
tions of  the  City  of  the  Gods  and  the  Cathedral 

GARDEN  OF  THE  GODS,  AND  PIKE'S  PEAK.  Bluffs.    The  Animas,  Mancos  and  other  tributaries 

of  the  San  Juan  drain  the  chaotic  mountains  of  southwestern  Colorado  into  the  Colorado 
River.  In  this  remote  region,  along  the  Hovenweep  and  McElmo,  are  found  the  ruined 
houses  and  watch-towers  of  the  long-extinct  cliff-dwellers,  driven 
ages  ago  to  these  holes  in  the  precipice-walls  by  deadly  enemies, 
Aztecs  or  Apaches.  Some  of  the  ruins  are  700  feet  long,  con- 
structed of  massive  blocks  of  stone,  or  cut,  with  vast  labor,  from 
the  live  rock. 

Much  of  the  finest  scenery  of  the  Atlantic  slope  of  Colorado 
occurs  in  the  wonderful  canons  which  the  streams  have  cut  in  the 
sides  of  the  mountains,  with  perpendicular  granite  or  sandstone 
walls.  Boulder,  Cheyenne,  Clear-Creek,  Grape-Creek  and  other 
canons  are  famous  for  their  remarkable  scenery,  and  the  Grand 
Canon  of  the  Arkansas  is  even  more  impressive  and  wonderful. 
West  of  the  main  range,  the  streams  flow  in  the  bottoms  of  yet 
more  prodigious  canons,  with  rock-walls  half  a  mile  or  more 
high,  generally  nearly  precipitous,  and  sometimes  even  overhang- 
ing their  bases.  The  Black  and  Grand  Canons  of  the  Gunnison, 
the  long  gorge  of  the  Uncompahgre,  and  the  deep  trench  in 


NQN 
FALLS. 


THE  STATE   OF  COLORADO. 


107 


ROYAL   GORGE. 


which  the  Rio  Dolores  flows,  are  remarkable  for  their  extent  and  grandeur.  High  up 
among  the  sunlit  peaks  many  crystalline  lakes  reflect  the  clear  sky  and  the  granite 
spires  above  them,  and  send  their  bright  waters  plunging  and  murmuring  down  the  rugged 
canons.  Near  Georgetown  is  the  deep  emerald  expanse  of 
Green  Lake,  with  Clear  Lake  above  it,  and  Elk  Lake  at  the 
edge  of  the  timber-line.  The  Twin  Lakes,  14  miles  from 
Leadville,  lie  at  the  base  of  the  lofty  Mount  Elbert,  9,357 
feet  above  the  sea,  and  their  unusual  beauty  has  caused  the 
erection  of  a  settlement  of  summer-hotels  and  cottages  on  the 
shores.  The  five  Evergreen  Lakes  mirror  the  huge  sides  of 
Mount  Massive  ;  and  the  crag-bound  Chicago  Lakes  spread 
their  transparent  waters  high  up  near  Mount  Evans,  the  upper- 
most of  them  being  11,434  feet  above  the  sea,  and  perpetually 
frozen.  Palmer  Lake,  on  the  Divide,  midway  between  Denver 
and  Pueblo  (7,238  feet  high),  has  on  its  shore  a  pleasant 
health-resort  village  and  sanitarium. 

Vast  areas  of  white  and  yellow  pine,  hemlock  and  cedar 
still  remain  on  the  mountains.  The  abundant  scrubby  pifions 
and  junipers  of  the  foothills  and  plateaus  are  useful  only  as 
fuel.  The  ridges  and  mountains  are  covered  with  noble  evergreen  trees,  up  to  9,000  feet, 
and  thin  and  distorted  trees  for  3,000  feet  higher,  or  up  to  the  timber-line,  above  which  the 
peaks  are  bleak  rocks,  with  slight  patches  of  grass  and  alpine  flowers.  The  wild  animals 
of  the  highlands  include  bears,  wolves,  panthers, 
wildcats,  antelopes,  elk,  deer,  beaver,  otter  and 
wild  fowl.  On  the  plains  millions  of  prairie-dogs 
dwell,  with  deer,  wolves,  hares  and  other  game, 
yearly  dwindling  away. 

The  Climate  of  this  great  mountain-realm 
naturally  has  a  wide  diversity,'  from  the  high 
summer-heats  of  the  plains  to  the  perpetual  snows 
of  the  main  range.  The  east  winds  are  damp  and 
cold ;  the  west  winds,  though  blowing  across  hun- 
dreds of  leagues  of  snowy  ranges,  are  warm  and 

dry.     As  a  rule,  the  nights  are  cool  and  (on  the  GREEN  LA 

Atlantic  slope)  dewless,  even  when  the  days  reach  90°.  The  foot-hills  have  hot  summers, 
with  cool  nights,  and  mild  winters,  with  snow  seldom  abiding  long.  The  mean  tempera- 
ture at  Denver  is,  in  winter,  30.3°;  spring,  48.7°;  summer,  69.7°;  and  autumn,  50.7°. 
Changes  are  frequent  and  sharp,  but  the  dryness  of  the  air  mitigates  their  severity.  From 
November  to  March  snow  may  come,  and  thence  till  the  close  of  summer  short  rain- 
showers  refresh  the  country.  More  than  300  days  in.  each  year  are  either  clear  or  partly 
clear.  From  July  to  October  the  sky  is  bright  and  cloudless,  and  the  air  is  pure,  sweet  and 
exhilarating.  ' '  An  air  more  delicious  to  breathe  cannot  anywhere  be  found, "  says  Bayard 

Taylor.  This  climate  is  favorable  to  health  and  vigor  ; 
and  the  pleasant  country  of  the  foot-hills  is  a  great 
and  beneficent  sanitarium,  especially  for  sufferers  from 
bronchial  and  pulmonaiy  complaints.  These  diseases 
are  arrested  in  the  dry  highland  air ;  and  many  Eastern 
people  now  enjoy  good  health  in  Colorado  who  would 
have  died  if  they  had  remained  in  their  old  homes. 
It  is  necessary  for  most  invalids  to  avoid  high  altitudes, 
and  remain  at  the  health-resorts  below  the  line  of 
7,000  feet.  The  electric  air  excites  the  nervous 


io8 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 


GLENWOOD   SPRINGS. 


systems  of  newcomers  to  a  high  tension,  producing  a  sort  of  intoxication  of  good  health, 
with  keen  appetite,  perfect  digestion  and  sound  sleep.  The  great  highland  sanitarium  of 
Colorado  is  endowed  very  richly  with  medicated  mineral  and  thermal  springs,  many  of 
which  are  provided  with  hotels  and  bath-houses.  The  beautiful  and  salubrious  city  of 
Colorado  Springs  was  founded  in  1871,  and  is  6,000  feet  above  the  sea,  and  ten  miles  east 
of  Pike's  Peak,  with  shielding  mountain-walls  on  north,  west  and  southwest,  and  a  sea-like 
expanse  of  the  plains  opening  on  the  east  aitd  south.  This  famous  climatic  health-resort 
illustrates  its  culture  by  the  El-Paso  and  Colorado- Springs  Clubs,  the  Country  Club,  the 
University  Club,  twelve  churches,  a  choral  union,  the  best  of  schools,  a  theatre,  and  an 
absolute  prohibition  of  liquor  sales.  In  the  vicinity  are  those  wonders  of  nature,  the 
Cheyenne  Canons ;  Glen  Eyrie,  and 
Blair  Athol,  with  their  fantastic  and 
bright-colored  rocks ;  the  Garden  of 
the  Gods,  with  miles  of  weird  and 
storm- worn  pinnacles  and  towers  of  red 
sandstone,  some  of  them  above  3,000 
feet  high,  "a  symphony  in  red  and 
yellow  ;"  and  Monument  Park,  crowded 
with  sculptured  rock-figures  of  great 
variety.  Five  miles  nearer  the  moun- 
tains lies  the  famous  health-resort  of 
Manitou,  with  its  soda,  iron,  seltzer  and 
sulphur  springs  (like  those  of  Ems), 
attracting  100,000  persons  a  year  to 
the  adjacent  hotels.  The  caverns  near  Manitou  contain  great  halls  and  corridors,  adorned 
with  stalactites  ;  and  the  canons  and  rock-sculptures  all  around  afford  continual  interest. 
This  sunny  cove  in  the  mountains  lies  at  the  mouth  of  the  Ute  Pass,  in  a  wonderfully 
stimulating  air.  Idaho  Springs  rush  from  the  base  of  Santa-Fe  Mountain,  near  the  head 
of  the  beautiful  Clear-Creek  Canon.  There  are  both  hot  and  cold  waters,  used  in  various 
forms  of  baths,  and  the  analysis  shows  ingredients  like  those  of  the  Carlsbad  springs. 
This  locality  is  much  visited  by  consumptives,  who  find  healing  in  the  medicinal  fountains. 
Canon  City,  near  the  picturesque  Grape-Creek  Canon  and  the  Royal  Gorge  of  the  Arkan- 
sas, has  soda  springs  and  hot  springs.  The  Boulder  saline  water  enjoys  a  large  sale 
throughout  America  and  Europe.  There  are  valuable  springs  at  Morrison,  a  fashionable 
mountain-resort  20-  miles  from  Denver,  and  near  Bear  Canon  and  the  Garden  of  the 
Angels.  Springdale,  ten  miles  above  Boulder,  has  tonic  iron  waters.  The  Haywood  and 
Cottonwood  Hot  Springs,  near  Buena  Vista,  are  visited  by  thousands  of  health-seekers. 
In  the  narrow  Wagon-Wheel  Gap,  where  the  upper  Rio  Grande  roars  down  through  a 
palisaded  cleft  in  the  mountains,  are  hot  and  cold  soda  and  sulphur  springs,  with  a  large 
hotel  and  bath-houses.  The  Soda  Springs  near  Leadville  are  under  the  shadow  of  the 
Saguache  Range.  Poncho  Hot  Springs,  near  Salida,  form  a  group  of  55  sources  of  clear, 

_  ,     odorless  and  tasteless  water,  with  hotels  and  bath-houses 

and  a  great  number  of  visitors.  Pagosa  Springs,  between 
the  Sierra  San-Juan  and  the  grassy  plains  of  New  Mex- 
ico, bubble  up  in  a  great  rocky  basin,  and  supply  purga- 
tive alkaline  waters  of  high  medicinal  value.  They  have 
a  temperature  of  140°;  and  the  steam  from  the  basin 
can  be  seen  for  miles,  in  cool  weather.  Glenwood 
Springs  are  ten  in  number,  pouring  out  every  minute 
8,000  gallons  of  warm  water,  powerfully  ^medicated, 
alkaline,  saline,  sulphurous  and  chalybeate,  some  of  them 
PHANTOM  CURVE.  in  hot  vaporous  caves  near  the  Grand  River,  and  others 


THE  STATE   OF  COLORADO. 


109 


WAGON-WHEEL    GAP. 


provided  with  large  bath-houses.  Shaw's  Magnetic 
Springs  are  near  Del  Norte.  Trimble's  Hot  Springs 
and  the  Pinkerton  Springs  are  near  Durango.  Estes 
Park,  60  miles  from  Denver,  and  4  by  6  miles  in 
area,  is  a  beautiful  pleasure-resort  of  the  Colora- 
dians,  close  to  Long's  Peak.  Near  the  hotel  a 
group  of  medicinal  springs  pour  forth  their  healing 
waters.  The  Hot  Sulphur  Springs,  six  in  number, 
boil  out  from  the  base  of  a  cliff  at  the  head  of 
Troublesome  Canon,  in  Middle  Park,  and  are  pro- 
vided with  baths.  Higher  up  in  the  mountains 
several  soda  springs  pour  out  their  effervescing  waters.  South  Park  contains  a  group  of 
saline  and  alkaline  springs,  and  also  Hartzell's  Hot  Sulphur  Springs.  Steamboat  Springs, 
in  Routt  County,  form  a  group  of  eighty  hot  fountains,  at  the  foot  of  the  Park  Range. 

Agriculture  has  not  until  lately  assumed  commanding  proportions  in  Colorado,  owing 
partly  to  insect  pests,  aridity  of  climate,  and  early  and  late  frosts.  The  farmers  have  found 
out  how  to  check  the  grasshoppers  and  other  winged  devourers.  The  aridity  of  the  soil 
has  been  overcome  by  artificial  irrigation,  by  whose  aid  over 
3,000,000  acres  are  now  under  profitable  cultivation,  with  an 
area  increasing  every  year.  Thirty-five  thousand  miles  of 
canals  and  ditches  are  now  in  operation,  and  $10,000,000  has 
been  spent  in  their  construction.  One  of  these  canals  takes 
water  from  the  Cache-a-la-Poudre  River,  and  carries  it  for  54 
miles  over  the  dry  plains  of  Larimer  and  Weld,  irrigating 
120,000  acres.  The  canals  running  from  the  perennial  moun- 
tain-streams are  tapped  by  smaller  lateral  ditches  leading  to 
the  higher  slopes  of  the  farms,  and  minor  ditches  reach  the 
fields,  which  are  in  turn  gridironed  by  plough  furrows.  When 
the  land  needs  water,  the  gates  of  the  laterals  are  opened  and 
crystal  streams  flow  down  the  field-ditches,  and  are  admitted 
into  the  furrows  by  taking  away  a  shovelful  of  earth  from  each 
one.  In  a  brief  hour  the  land  is  refreshed  as  from  a  prolonged 
soaking  rain.  The  amount  needed  varies  from  50  to  75  cubic 
feet  an  acre,  for  the  season,  costing  less  than  $2  in  all.  The  State  is  divided  into  five 
water  divisions,  each  under  a  superintendent  of  irrigation ;  and  the  divisions  are  sub-divided 
into  water  districts,  each  with  a  water  commissioner.  These  officials,  m^^^^^^^^^^^^m 
under  the  supervision  of  the  State  engineer,  distribute  the  waters 
according  to  priority  of  rights. 

The  farm-products  even  now  exceed  $12,000,000  a  year,  and 
include  3,000,000  bushels  of  wheat,  making  a  very  white  and  dry 
flour,  2,000,000  of  oats,  i,5OO,odfc  of  corn,  200,000  of  barley, 
3,000,000  of  potatoes,  400,000  tons  of  hay,  $400,000  worth  of 
dairy  products,  500,000  pounds  of  honey,  and  all  manner  of  vege- 
tables, grapes,  berries,  and  hardy  fruits.  There  are  half  a  million 
apple-trees.  Peaches  flourish  west  of  the  mountains ;  and  part  of 
the  Arkansas  Valley  is  famous  for  its  watermelons  and  grapes. 
Alfalfa  has  become  the  leading  farm-product,  and  is  even  crowding 
out  wheat.  The  crop  was  1,000  tons  in  1880,  1,000,000  in  1888, 
and  3,000,000  in  1889.  ^  ^s  a  tenaciously  hardy  clover,  with 
long  tap-roots,  and  yields  three  cuttings  a  year,  each  of  nearly  two 
tons  an  acre.  This  enormous  crop  is  all  kept  in  the  State,  and 
fed  to  the  live-stock,  being  the  best  of  beef-producing  foods.  CATHEDRAL  ROCK. 


CURRECANTI    NEEDL 


no 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE    UNITED   STATES. 


Timothy,  orchard  and  blue  grass  also  produce  three 
to  four  tons  to  the  acre  yearly. 

Stock-raising  has  long  been  a  leading  industry  of 
Colorado,  where  domestic  animals  do  not  require 
shelter  or  feeding  in  winter,  howbeit  occasionally  a 
severe  season  kills  many  range  animals.  The  grasses 
are  nutritious  and  abundant,  and  the  cattle  thrive  on 
the  dry  natural  hay.  Latterly,  the  Great  Plains  have 
been  occupied  by  the  farmers,  and  the  cattle,  restricted 
to  the  poorest  ranges,  are  moving  elsewhere.  Two 
thirds  of  the  herds  are  on  the  farms,  where  agricul- 
AI.PINE  PASS.  tural  and  stock-raising  interests  are  blended,  as  in  the 

older  States,  and  the  animals  are  more  carefully  fed  and  looked  after  in  winter.  The  quality 
of  the  cattle  has  been  greatly  improved  by  importing  thoroughbreds  and  crossing  Short 
Horns  and  Polled  Anguses  with  the  Texan  animals.  The 
number  of  cattle  in  the  State  exceeds  1,50x3,000.  Sheep- 
raising  employs  $5,000,000  capital.  The  drought  of  1880 
and  the  repeal  of  the  ad-valorem  duty  on  wool  gave  severe 
blows  to  this  industry,  but  the  flock-masters  still  count 
2,000,000  sheep,  and  send  10,000,000  pounds  of  wool  to 
the  Eastern  markets  yearly. 

Mining  began  with  the  discovery  of  gold  placers,  in 
1858,  near  Denver,  and  enormous  profits  have  since  been 
realized.  The  Small-Hopes  mine  paid  $3,000,000  in  two 
years ;  and  many  others  reached  an  equal  productiveness. 
Placer-mining  was  succeeded  in  1870  by  hydraulic  min- 
ing, and  this  a  few  years  later  by  the  sulphurets  and 
tellurides.  The  Ouray  and  San-Juan  mines  yield  free- 
milling  gold.  West  of  105°  the  vast  mountains  are 
banded  with  veins  of  silver  and  lodes  of  gold,  of  incalcula- 
ble value.  From  the  rich  chlorides  of  Silver  Cliff  to  the 
great  argentiferous  mountains  around  Silverton,  and  from 
the  native  gold  of  Boulder  to  the  fine  copper  of  Unaweep,  extend  the  great  treasuries  of 
the  hills.  The  bullion  production  of  Colorado  has  passed  $300,000,000.  In  the  five  years, 
1880-1-2-3-4,  it  exceeded  $100,000,000.  The  Leadville  district  in  1878-9-80-1-2,  turned 
out  $68,000,000;  and  little  Gilpin  County  has  yielded  $32,000,000  in  gold.  Silver-mining 
was  not  much  heeded  during  the  golden  age  of  Colorado, 
but  now  it  is  the  second  silver-producing  State,  and  turns 
out  four  times  as  much  silver  as  gold.  There  are  1,200 
stamps,  forever  hammering  away  at  gold  and  silver  ore,  in 
the  mining  camps.  The  Leadville  product  holds  above 
$12,000,000  a  year,  mainly  in  silver,  and  the  smelters  and 
roasters  are  kept  busy  with  their  rich  carbonates  of  lead  and 
silver.  Upwards  of  $60,000,000  in  ore  is  in  sight  at  Lead- 
ville, and  the  miners  profess  to  be  discouraged  "because 
they  have  to  dig  through  four  feet  of  solid  silver  to  get  down 
to  the  gold."  The  Aspen  mines  have  sent  out  millions  of 
dollars'  worth  of  ore.  The  city  of  Aspen,  with  its  5,000 
inhabitants,  five  churches,  electric  lights  and  brick  blocks, 
nestles  in  a  cup-shaped  valley  7,500  feet  above  the  sea. 
Upwards  of  $50,000,000  worth  of  lead  and  $6,000,000 
worth  of  copper  have  come  from  the  Colorado  hills,  almost 


LOOP    NEAR    GEORGETOWN. 


THE  STATE   OF  COLORADO. 


in 


entirely  from  gold  and  silver  bearing  ores.  The  lead  exported  reaches  an  average  of  over 
a  thousand  tons  a  week,  mainly  from  the  Leadville  region.  The  iron  of  Colorado  occurs 
mostly  in  hematite  and  magnetite  ores,  with  60  per  cent,  of  metal,  and  covers  great  areas. 
It  is  stated  by  scientific  explorers  that  Gunnison  County  alone  has  a  supply  of  iron  equal  in 
extent  to  all  that  of  Pennsylvania. 

The  coal-fields  cover  40,000  square  miles,  the  seams  averaging  about  five  feet  in  thick- 
ness. The  50  working  mines  employ  5,400  men.  The  output  of  coal  rose  from  8,000  tons 
in  1869  to  2,400,000  at  present.  Much  of  the  Colo- 
rado coal  is  bituminous,  but  large  areas  of  pure 
anthracite  have  been  opened  near  Glenwood 
Springs  and  New  Castle.  Lignite  beds  follow 
the  eastern  base  of  the  mountains  for  200  miles. 
Petroleum  was  discovered  at  Florence,  just  below 
the  Grand  Canon  of  the  Arkansas,  in  1882.  There 
are  25  wells  in  that  district,  producing  140,000 
barrels  of  illuminants  and  160,000  barrels  of 
lubricants. 

Of  late  years  large  quarrying  industries  have  E8TES  PARK- 

arisen  in  the  ridges  outside  the  foot-hills.  The  Union  Pacific  Railroad  has  sandstone 
quarries  at  Lyons,  and  others  in  and  around  Stout.  The  Marble-Glen  quarries,  near  Fort 
Collins,  contain  inexhaustible  supplies.  Sandstones  are  found  in  great  variety,  the  white 
of  Manitou,  the  red  and  white  of  Morrison,  the  pale  green  of  Canon  City,  the  pink  and 
yellow  of  other  localities,  and  the  great  quarries  of  Trinidad.  Marble  occurs  in  white, 
black,  pink  and  variegated  colors.  Colorado  City  has  an  inexhaustible  quarry  of  red 
sandstone;  Hancock  and  Pine  Creek,  gray  granite;  Nathrop,  lava;  Calumet,  dolomite 
and  marble ;  and  Colorado  Springs,  gypsum,  supplying  the  Rocky- Mountain  district  with 
plaster  of  Paris  and  cement. 

Government. — The  Colorado  State  House  at  Denver  is  a  handsome  modern  building 

of  Gunnison  granite.  When  completed 
it  will  have  cost  over  $1,500,000.  The 
State  institutions  include  the  Insane  Asy- 
lum, at  Pueblo ;  the  Institution  for  the 
Education  of  the  Mute  and  the  Blind,  at 
Colorado  Springs;  the  State  Reform 
School,  at  Golden ;  and  the  Penitentiary, 
at  Canon  City. 

The  public  schools  are  of  high  grade 
and  efficient  organization.  Nearly  $4,  ooo,  - 
ooo  are  invested  in  school  property;  and 
the  State  holds  3,000,000  acres  of  school- 
lands,  whose  sale  will  afford  a  great  educa- 
tional fund.  The  Normal  School  is  at 
Greeley.  The  University  of  Colorado,  endowed  by  Congress,  the  State  and  citizens  of 
Boulder,  was  incorporated  in  1860,  and  opened  at  Boulder  in  1877.  It  has  21  instructors 
and  31  collegiate  students,  besides  120  in  other  departments.  The  State  School  of  Mines, 
at  Golden,  has  46  students.  The  Agricultural  College,  at  Fort  Collins,  has  130  students. 
The  Presbyterian  College  of  the  Southwest,  at  Del  Norte,  and  Denver  University  (Meth- 
odist) have  opened  within  ten  years.  Colorado  College,  at  Colorado  Springs,  dates  from 
1874.  There  are  small  medical  schools  at  Denver  and  Boulder.  The  Rocky-Mountain 
University,  of  Denver,  received  incorporation  in  1887,  and  has  a  successful  medical  college. 
The  great  Jesuit  college,  at  North  Denver,  occupies  a  noble  building,  erected  at  a  cost  of 
$500,000.  Wolfe  Hall  and  Jarvis  Hall  are  flourishing  Episcopal  schools  at  Denver.  The 


IDAHO   SPRINGS. 


112 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE    UNITED   STATES. 


National  Government  maintains  an  Indian  school  at  Grand  Junction.  The  chief  United- 
States  military  post  in  Colorado  is  Fort  Logan,  near  Denver.  The  ancient  border  strong- 
hold of  Fort  Lyon  was  evacuated  in  1890.  Fort  Crawford  is  a  garrisoned  post  near 
Montrose  ;  and  Fort  Lewis,  near  Durango,  guards  the  Ute  reservation. 

The  Railways  of  Colorado  are  famous  for  their  bold  engineering,  and  their  wonderful 

achievements  in  the  passage  of  lofty  mountains  and 
unparalleled  gorges.  They  have  been  built  in 
advance  of  population,  and  the  rapid  growth  of  the 
State  is  in  part  due  to  their  agency.  Eight  lines 
enter  from  the  east ;  five  go  into  the  mountains  ; 
and  one  crosses  the  western  border  into  Utah.  The 
Union  Pacific  has  1,272  miles  in  the  State.  The  Bur- 
lington &  Missouri-River  Railroad  runs  from  Denver 
into  Nebraska.  The  Chicago,  Rock-Island  &  Pacific 
Railroad  runs  east  to  Kansas  and  beyond.  The  Mis- 
souri Pacific  starts  east  from  Pueblo.  The  Denver, 

Texas  &  Fort-Worth  Railroad  runs  from  Denver  across  the  Pan  Handle  of  Texas,  and  at 
Fort  Worth  meets  the  network  of  Texan  railways. 

The  Denver  &  Rio-Grande  Railroad  is  peculiarly  a  Coloradian  enterprise,  with  Denver 
and  Espanola  (near  Santa  Fe)  as  its  termini,  and  many  branches.  This  line  crosses  the  Veta 
Pass  and  the  San-Luis  Park,  turning  north  to  Silverton.  It  traverses  the 
famous  Toltec  Gorge,  where  the  line  is  carried  high  along 
the  face  of  a  tremendous  precipice,  with  the  river  foaming 
far  below.  Animas  Canon  has  also  been  penetrated  by  its 
locomotives.  The  line  from  Pueblo  to  Salt  Lake-City  is  one 
of  the  most  wonderful  scenic  routes  in  the  world,  and  trav- 
erses the  Grand  Canon  of  the  Arkansas,  on  rocky  shelves 
far  above  the  whirling  waters.  Ten  miles  of  this  track  cost 
$1,400,000,  being  one  of  the  most  expensive  sections  of  rail- 
way in  the  world.  The  workmen  were  suspended  over  the  DENVER  :  DENVER  CLUB. 
cliffs  by  ropes,  while  blasting  the  rock  to  get  foot-hold.  This  route  crosses  the  lofty  Marshall 
Pass,  with  an  almost  spiral  pathway  of  iron  loops  ascending  through  the  continental  surges 
of  granite  and  snow  ;  and  traverses  the  dark  canons  of  the  Gunnison  and  Uncompahgre,  and 
the  weird  Book  Plateaus.  The  Rio-Grande  line  crosses  the  Fremont  Pass,  11,540  feet 
above  the  sea;  the  Tennessee  Pass,  10,340;  and  the  Marshall  Pass,  10,560.  Alpine  Tunnel, 
11,623  feet  above  the  sea,  and  1,773  ^eet  l°ng>  is  tne  loftiest  railroad  construction  in  North 
America.  The  perpetual  snow-banks  send  their  waters  on  one  side  to  the  Atlantic,  and  on 

the  other  to  the  Pacific.     The  line  crosses  the  Sangre- 
de-Cristo  Range,  not  far  from  Sierra  Blanca, 
and  on  this  stupendous  ascent  the  road 
doubles  sharply  on  itself  again  and  again, 


climbing  at  the  rate  of  over  216  feet  to 
the  mile. 

The  Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa-Fe 
Railroad  runs  from  Denver  south  to 
Pueblo,  and  thence  east  down  the  Ar- 
kansas Valley  into  Kansas.  A  southern 

extension  branches  off  at  La  Junta,  for  Mexico  and  Southern  California.  The  Colorado 
Midland  runs  from  Colorado  Springs  over  the  Ute  Pass  into  South  Park,  and  crosses  the 
Park  Range,  with  superb  views  of  the  Saguache  and  Sangre-de-Cristo  Ranges.  It  then 
ascends  to  Leadville,  and  arduously  climbs  the  Saguache  Range,  running  for  a  long  distance 
among  the  barren  rocks  above  the  timber-line. 


THE  STATE   OF  COLORADO, 


BELOW    FREMONT    PA 


Chief  Cities.  —  Denver  was  founded  in  1858,  on  the  South  Platte  River,  15  miles  east 
of  the  mountains,  and  named  for  Gov.  James  W.  Denver  of  Kansas.  It  slopes  toward  and 
views  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  is  about  a  mile  above  the  sea,  with  a  rare,  dry,  clear  and 
sunshiny  air,  and  park-like  shadowy  streets,  lined  with  fine  public  buildings.  Denver  is  an 
important  railway  junction,  and  the  commercial  metropolis  and  trading  centre  for  a  vast 
area  ;  and  has  many  factories,  the  best  of  artesian  well-water,  and  scientific  sewerage.  The 
view  from  its  upper  parts  includes  a  superb  crescent  of  purple  and  white  mountains,  more 
than  200  miles  long,  from  Pike's  Peak,  in  the 
south,  to  beyond  Long's  Peak,  in  the  north. 

Leadville,  the  foremost  carbonate  mining- 
camp  in  the  world,  stands  on  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, nearly  two  miles  above  the  sea-level. 
From  1859  to  1864  it  bore  the  name  of  Cali- 
fornia Gulch,  and  yielded  $1,000,000  a  year  in 
gold  dust.  After  this  it  was  nearly  abandoned, 
until  1876,  when  the  great  beds  of  silver  carbon- 
ate were  unearthed. 

Pueblo  is  one  of  the  chief  cities  of  Colorado, 
surrounded  by  leagues  of  rich  farms,  with  an 
admirable  climate,  and  but  40  or  50  miles  by  a  down  grade  from  the  mountains,  which  con- 
tain inexhaustible  quantities  of  coal  and  minerals.  It  is  "the  Pittsburgh  of  the  West," 
the  key  of  southern  Colorado,  the  meeting  point  of  numerous  railways,  and  humming  with 
steel-works,  foundries,  lead-works,  nail-works  and  rolling-mills.  Glenwood  Springs  is  the 
supply-point  and  railway-centre  of  the  Grand  River  Valley,  with  iron  and  coal  mines, 
water-works,  electric  lights,  and  two  daily  papers.  It  is  5, 200  feet  above  the  sea-level. 

Among  other  Colorado  towns  are  Fort  Collins  and  Greeley,  on  the  wheat-growing  plains  ; 
Trinidad,  in  the  south,  with  important  iron  manufactures  ;  Golden  and  Boulder  and  Canon 
City,  with  their  mines,  manufactures  and  schools ;  Central,  the  seat  of  gold-mines  ;  and  the 
active  mining-camps  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  Gunnison,  Ouray,  Breckenridge,  Salida,  Sil- 
verton  and  others. 

If  the  pioneer  gold-hunters  of  a  generation  ago  should  revisit  the  plains  of  Denver,  in 
their  day  so  lonely  and  desolate,  they  would  find  matter  for  wonder  and  amazement  in  the 
splendid  modern  metropolis  which  has  risen  here,  face  to  face  with  the  Titantic  wall  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains.  Nothing  would  cause  them  more  surprise  than  the  new  Broadway 
Theatre,  a  great  fire-proof  building,  admirable  in  its  lines  of  view  and  acoustic  properties, 
rich  in  scenery,  and  perfect  in  mechanical  arrangements,  with  a  stage  of  steel  and  terra  cotta, 
the  most  comfortable  and  luxurious  of  furnishings,  and  an  asbestos  curtain. 

The  Hotel  Metropole  in  Denver  adjoins  the  Broadway 
Theatre  and  is  part  of  the  same  great  pile  of  buildings, 
beautiful  in  architecture  and  massive  in  construction.  It 
is  conducted  on  the  European  plan,  and  was  opened  in 
1891,  with  130  guest-rooms,  and  a  series  of  public  apart- 
ments that  would  do  credit  to  London  or  Paris.  The  wig- 
wams of  the  old  frontier  days  have  vanished  forever,  with 
the  era  of  "revolvers  and  canned  fruit  "  ;  and  the  traveler 
from  the  East,  West,  North  and  South  may  rest  here  at 
the  new  Metropole  amid  all  the  luxuries  of  the  nineteenth 
century,  and  in  a  hostelry  as  uninflammable  as  Pike's  Peak. 

Finance. —  The  first  bank  in  Colorado  was  opened 
in  1862;  and  in  1865  the  First  National  Bank  of  Denver 
came  into  existence.  The  Denver  Clearing-  House  Associa- 
tion contains  eleven  banks,  and  its  yearly  clearings  reach 


DENVER  :    BROADWAY    THEATRE   AND 
METROPOLE   HOTEL. 


KING^S   HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


DENVER:    FIRST  NATIONAL  BANK. 


$220,000,000.  The  First  National  Bank  does  the  heaviest 
business  of  all,  and  has  achieved  a  remarkable  success  in  build- 
ing up  a  general  banking  business.  It  is  one  of  the  United-States 
depositories  ;  and  has  a  combined  capital  and  surplus  of  $  I  ,  ooo,  - 
ooo.  The  magnificent  building  of  this  institution  stands  in  the 
heart  of  Denver,  and  is  very  thoroughly  equipped  and  appointed, 
and  richly  decorated.  The  safe-deposit  vaults  underneath  are 
invincible  by  fire  or  burglars,  and  contain  great  treasures.  The 
First  National  Bank  finds  a  valuable  business  in  individual  and 
firm  accounts,  collections,  country-bank  accounts,  and  the 
advancement  of  the  interests  of  correspondents. 

Smelting  is  the  greatest  mechanical  industry  of  Colorado, 
whose  precious  yellow  and  white  metals  have  passed  into  the 
bullion  currency  of  the  country  to  the  extent  of  hundreds  of 
millions  of  dollars.  Denver  is  one  of  the  foremost  manufac- 
turers of  the  precious  metals  in  the  world,  and  the  rivers  of  gold  and  silver  continuously 
flowing  from  her  furnaces  practically  irrigate  the  commercial  channels  of  the  nation.  The 
scientific  processes  of  smelting  have  made  great  advances  during  the  last  quarter  of  a  century, 
and  their  high  success  has  stimulated  mining  industries  in  all  parts  of  the  country.  Upwards 
of  $  i  o,  ooo,  ooo  are  invested  in  the  smelters  of  Denver. 
The  Omaha  &  Grant  Smelting  and  Refining  Com- 
pany resulted  from  a  combination  of  the  Omaha 
Smelting  Company,  of  Omaha  and  Denver,  with  the 
Grant  Smelting  Company  originally  founded  at  Lead- 
ville  in  1878  by  ex-Gov.  James  B.  Grant.  The 
works  at  Denver  cover  nearly  fifty  acres  and  employ 
500  men,  their  35  immense  roasting,  calcining  and 
fusing  furnaces  consuming  daily  400  tons  of  ores, 
from  the  Rocky-Mountain  and  Pacific  States  and 
Mexico.  The  yearly  product  of  these  works  and  of 
the  larger  and  older  furnaces  belonging  to  the  same 
company  at  Omaha,  exceeds  $15,000,000  in  gold  and 
silver,  copper  and  lead.  The  capital  of  the  Omaha  &  Grant  is  $2,500,000.  It  is  the  largest 
establishment  of  its  kind  in  the  world.  Guy  C.  Barton  is  its  president  ;  James  B.  Grant, 
vice-president  ;  and  W.  H.  James,  superintendent. 

The  Boston  &  Colorado  Smelting  Company  has  extensive  works  at  Argo,  near  Denver, 
and  is  devoted  to  the  smelting  of  gold,  silver  and  copper  ores  in  reverberatory  furnaces, 
and  the  application  of  the  Ziervogel  process  to  silver  "matte."  The  company  was  founded 
in  1867  by  Nathaniel  P.  Hill,  professor  of  chemistry  at  Brown  University,  who  came  to  this 
region  in  1864  to  make  a  report  on  its  mines,  for  certain  eastern  capitalists.  The  works 
were  removed  from  Black  Hawk  to  Denver  in  1879.  They  have  enjoyed  a  constantly 

increasing  patronage,  and  their  output  of  the  preci- 
ous metals  already  exceeds  $65,000,000.  Mr. 
Hill  has  represented  Colorado  in  the  U.  -S.  Senate, 
with  great  efficiency,  especially  in  the  debates  on 
irrigation,  the  silver  question,  deep-water  harbors 
in  Texas,  the  removal  of  theUte  Indians,  the  wool 
tariff  and  the  postal  telegraph.  His  introduction 
of  the  first  successful  method  of  treating  refractory 
ores  has  been  worth  scores  of  millions  of  dollars 
to  Colorado,  and  has  added  greatly  to  the  wealth 
DENVER  CARGO,)  :  BOST.  &  COLO.  SMELTING  WORKS.  of  the  United  States. 


DENVER  :     OMAHA    &    GRANT    SMELTING    WORKS. 


THE  STATE   OF   COLORADO, 


DENVER,  AND   THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAIN 

The  Colorado  Coal  &  Iron  Company,  one  of  the  foremost  of  the  industries  of  the  West, 
was  the  outgrowth  of  the  researches  of  Gen.  Wm.  J.  Palmer,  who  was  one  of  the  first  (as 
well  as  one  of  the  most  careful  and  thorough)  prospectors  of  Colorado.  The  company 
acquired  extensive  fields  of  the  best  coking,  steam  and  domestic  coal ;  the  richest  hematite, 
magnetic  and  Bessemer  iron  ore1; ;  valuable  oil  lands ;  and  favorably  located  town-sites  and 
agricultural  lands.  It  also  has  operated  its  mines  and  erected  furnaces,  rolling-mills  and 
steel-works.  Its  coke  is  conceded  to  be  of  superior  quality.  Its  steel  rails  have  been  found 
the  equal  of  any,  after  being  very  thoroughly  tested  by  various  roads ;  and  its  iron  pipe, 
spikes  and  merchant  iron  find  ready  sale.  The  furnaces,  and  steel  and  other  mills  are 
located  at  Pueblo,  the  second  city  in  Colorado,  advantageously  situated  as  a  railroad  centre, 
and  surrounded  by  a  large  area  of  land  admirably  adapted  to  agriculture,  and  supplied  with 
irrigation  by  the  Bessemer  Ditch,  now  opened,  mainly  through  the  efforts  of  the  Colorado 
Coal  &  Iron  Co.  Pueblo,  already  a  large  manufacturing  centre,  is  growing  in  a  substantial 
manner.  It  has  a  population  of  about  35,000,  with  the  usual  evidences  of  modern  progress, 
water-works,  electric  lights,  and  electric  cars.  Its  new  Opera  House,  erected  from  plans  of 
Adler  &  Sullivan,  the  architects  of  the  great  Chicago  Auditorium,  is  one  of  the  finest  struc- 
tures of  this  character  in  the  West.  The  new  buildings  that  have  been  erected  within  the 
past  few  years  give  the  city  a  vigorous  and  flourishing  character.  The  Colorado  Coal  &  Iron 
Company  own  large  tracts  about  the  city  suitable  for  agricultural  or  manufacturing  pur- 
poses, and  have  been  instrumental  in  bringing  many  of  the  smelters  and  other  business  con- 
cerns here,  by  a  liberal  and  wise  course  in  that  direction.  During  the  year  1890  the  company 
sold  land  to  the  value  of  over  $1,000,000  ;  it  mined  800,000  tons  of  coal ;  and  made  120,000 
tons  of  coke,  42,000  tons  of  pig  iron,  and  25,000  tons  of  steel  rails.  Its  gross  earnings,  ex- 
clusive of  sales  of  real  estate,  were  $2,840,000.  Its  capital  is  $10,000,000,  and  its  bonded 
debt  is  $3,500,000;  and  its  rapidly  increasing  sinking-fund  already  reaches  $345,000.  The 
mineral  development  of  Colorado  has  been  greatly  advanced  by  this  enterprising  company. 
The  geological  history  of  the  West  is  concerned  mainly  with  the  gradual  upheaval  of  the 

great  continental  mountain-range  from  be- 
neath the  sea.  Beginning  with  the  emer- 
gence of  the  Sierra  Madre  from  the  waste 
of  waves,  this  uplifting  of  the  land  ad- 
vanced northward ;  and  the  Sierra  San 
Juan  of  Colorado  is  probably  the  most 
ancient  section  of  firm  ground  on  this 
side  of  the  Republic.  Later,  the  other 
ranges  slowly  appeared  above  the  sea, 
the  Sangre-de-Cristo  and  Sierra  Mojada, 
and  finally  the  Front  Range.  For  ages 


PUE3LO  I     COLORADO  COAL  &    IRON   CO. 


i6 


KING'S  HANDBOOK   OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 


PUEBLO  :     UNION    RAILWAY    DEPOT. 


the  ocean  beat  against  the  steep  western  de- 
clivities ;  and  the  more  gradual  eastern  slopes 
were  formed  by  the  deposits  washed  down  from 
the  peaks  into  the  shallow  waters  on  that  side. 
The  mountain-walls  encircled  many  lakes  of 
salt  water,  which  finally  drained  off  through 
the  canons,   leaving  the   broad  basins  of  the 
parks,  for  the  homes  of  the  coming  empire. 
"Colorado  is  the  flower  of  a  peculiarly  western  civilization,  in  which  is  mingled  the  best 
blood  of  the  North  and  the  South,  the  virile  sap  of  New  England  and  the  CaroTinas  —  a 
truly  American  State." 

The  growth  of  Denver  in  population  and  in  influence  has  been  one  of  the  most  remark- 
able instances  of  the  great  Western  development.  Well-known  public  men  have  predicted 
that  the  fourth  city  of  the  New  World  will  occupy  this  locality,  inside  of  a  century.  The 
first  governor  of  Colorado,  William  Gilpin,  used  to  say  that  he  came  into  these  remote  soli- 
tudes to  "found  an  empire;"  and  claimed  for  the  country  the  distinction  of  "straddling  the 
axis  of  the  temperate  zone."  The  highlands  near  Denver,  now  being  occupied  by  bright 
suburban  villages  and  public  institutions,  command  on  the  east  a  prospect  over  boundless 
expanses  of  prairie,  and  on  the  west  a  sublime  panorama  of  mountains. 


"A  drive  of  twelve  miles  brings  us  to  the  Grand  Canon  of  the  Ar- 
kansas. Disappointment  is  bitter,  and  feelings  of 
resentment  almost  beyond  control,  as  nowhere  can 
the  eye  discover  the  canon.  In  the  immediate  fore- 
ground the  pifion  growth  is  rank  and  dense ;  just 
beyond,  great  bleak  ridges  of  bare,  cold  rock  contrast 
strongly  with  the  profusion  of  foliage  hiding  every 
thing  beneath  from  sight,  while  away  in  the  dim  dis- 
tance the  snow-crowned  peaks  of  the  continental 
divide  are  outlined  sharp  and  clear  against  the  solid  PUEBLO  :  GRAND  OPERA  HOUSE. 

blue  of  the  morning  sky.  Though  grand  beyond  anything  we  have  seen,  in  amazing  extent 
of  vision,  the  mind  is  so  wrapped  up  in  the  anticipation  of  full  realization  of  the  gloom,  and 
vastness,  and  solemn  grandeur  of  the  Grand  Canon,  as  to  resent  almost  angrily  their  ap- 
parent absence.  A  half  dozen  steps  from  the  clump  of  pinon  trees,  where  the  horses  have 
been  fastened,  and  all  thoughts  of  resentment,  of  disappointment  and  chagrin  vanish,  and 
a  cry  of  absolute  terror  escapes  us.  At  our  very  feet  is  the  canon  —  another  step  would 
hurl  us  into  eternity.  Shuddering,  we  peer  down  the  awful  slopes  ;  fascinated,  we  steal  a 
little  nearer  to  circumvent  a  mountain  that  has  rolled  into  the  chasm,  and  at  last  the  eye 
reaches  down  the  sharp  incline  3,000  feet  to  the  bed  of  the  river,  the 
impetuous  Arkansas,  40  to  60  feet  in  width,  yet  to  us  a  mere  ribbon  of 
molten  silver.  Though  surging  madly  against  its  rocky  sides,  leap- 
ing wildly  over  gigantic  masses  of  rock  and  hoarsely  murmuring 
against  its  imprisonment  within  these  lofty  walls,  it  finds  no  avenue  of 
escape.  Every  portion  of  these  marble  bastions  is  as  smooth  as  if 
polished,  and  as  stationary  as  the  mighty  walls  that  look  down  upon 
them  from  such  fearful  height."  Turning  from  this  awful  gorge  to 
the  equally  astonishing  chasms  beyond  the  Continental  Divide,  the 
antiquary  finds  there  the  silent  and  unrevealing  vestiges  of  a  .lost  peo- 
ple. Over  three  centuries  ago  the  Spaniards  found  these  same  ruins, 
just  as  now,  the  houses  hewn  from  the  solid  rock  of  the  mesas  and 
CANON  ON  THE  cliffs,  and  the  other  architectural  constructions  concerning  whose 

SAGUACHE.  builders  and  occupants  even  tradition  is  silent. 


$1,239,752 
244,000,000 
105,000,000 


Area  (square  miles), 

U.  S.  Representatives  (1893), 

Militia  (Disciplined),     .     .     . 

Counties, 

Cities 

Towns, 

Post-offices 

Railroads  (miles). 
Capital, 


$112,000,000 
4,990 


HISTORY. 

The  little  Commonwealth 
of  Connecticut,  nestling  be- 
tween New  York,  Massa- 
chusetts and  Rhode  Island, 
with  Long  -  Island  Sound 
and  a  glimpse  of  the  open  sea 
on  the  south,  holds  a  proud 
place  among  the  American 
States,  by  reason  of  the  gen- 
eral high  cultivation  of  her  people,  and  the  wonderful  in- 
genuity of  her  inventors  and  mechanics.  This  rich  and 
happy  Christian  community  has  risen  in  a  land  once  drenched 
with  savage  blood,  and  its  peaceful  industrial  villages  have 
replaced  the  wigwams  of  warring  red  men.  The  Indians 
of  pre -historic  Connecticut  numbered  fewer  than  20,000. 
All  the  Connecticut  tribes  were  tributaries  of  the  warlike 
Mohawks,  of  New  York,  whose  envoys  made  yearly  tours 
through  their  domains,  collecting  tribute  and  promulgating 
the  edicts  of  the  Five  Nations.  About  the  year  1606  a 
clan  of  the  New- York  Mohicans  cut  their  way  through  these 
vassal  villages,  and  settled  near  the  Mystic  River,  whence 
they  waged  almost  perpetual  warfare  upon  the  Narragan- 
setts,  and  ground  down  the  local  tribes.  This  was  the  cele- 
brated Pequot  tribe,  numbering  700  brave  warriors,  under 
the  lead  of  the  Sachem  Sassacus.  The  Dutch  purchased 
the  land  from  the  lawful  Pequot  authorities,  and  the  Massa- 
chusetts colonists  also  secured  from  Sassacus  permission  to 
trade  and  settle  here.  Sir  Harry  Vane  sent  Endicott  to 
fight  the  Pequots,  with  little  result;  and  in  1637  Con- 
necticut despatched  Capt.  John  Mason  against  them, 
with  ninety  Englishmen,  aided  by  Uncas  and  70  In- 
dians. In  a  long  battle  near  Groton,  the  tribal  power  was 
broken,  and  500  of  the  savages  lost  their  lives.  A  remnant 
of  the  Mohegan  tribe  still  holds  a  reservation  on  Massapeag 
Mountain  (or  Mohegan  Hill),  below  Norwich,  overlooking  the  Thames,  where  every  Sep- 
tember they  have  a  festival,  in  a  wigwam  of  forest-boughs,  set  off  with  succotash,  yokeag, 
baked  quahaugs  and  other  Indian  delicacies.  The  first  European  explorer  hereabouts  w?.s 


STATISTICS. 

Settled  at Windsor. 

Settled  in 1633 

Founded  by  Massachusetts  men. 
One  of  the  original  13  States. 
Population,  in  1860,       .     .     .   460,147 

In  1870, 5.37,454 

In  1880 622,700 

White 610,769 

Colored n,93i 

American-born,      .     .     .  492,708 
Foreign-born,     ....    129,992 

Males, 305,782 

Females, 316,900 

In  1890  (census),    ....    746,258 
Population  to  the  square  mile,   128.5 
Voting  Population  (1880),      .    177,291 
Vote  for  Harrison  (1888),  .     74,584 
Vote  for  Cleveland  (1888),       74,920 
Net  State  Debt  (1890), 
Real  Property,     .     . 
Personal  Property,  . 
Banks,     ..... 
Savings  Banks,    .     . 
Deposits, 


12 
ibo 

499 
1,007 

$65,000,000 


Gross  Yearly  Earnings,  $20,000,000 
Manufactures  (yearly),    $186,000,000 

Operatives, 116,000 

Farm  Land  (in  acres),  .  2,400,000 
Farm  Population,  .  .  .  44,000 
Farm  Values,  .  .  .  $135,000,000 
Farm  Products  (yearly),  $18,000,000 

Colleges, 3 

Public  Schools,      ....       1,650 
School  Children,  ....    135,000 

Newspapers, 182 

Temperature,  ....  — 14°  to  100° 
Mean  Temperature  (New 
Haven), 49° 

TEN  CHIEF  CITIKS  AND  THEIR  POPU- 
LATIONS.    (Census  of  1890.) 

New  Haven, 81,298 

Hartiord, 53,230 

Bridgeport, 48,866 

Waterbury 28,646 

Meriden 21,652 

New  Britain, 19,007 

Norwalk, 17, 747 


Danbury, 
Norwich 
Stamford, 


, 

16,156 
15,700 


n8 


KING'S  HANDBOOK   OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 


HARTFORD  :     THE    CHARTER    OAK. 


Adriaen  Blok,  a  gallant  Hollander,  who  in  1614  sailed  along  the 
coast  in  the  Onrust  {Restless},  and  ascended  the  Connecticut  River 
above  the  site  of  Hartford.  The  Dutch  skippers  named  the 
Connecticut  the  Varsche  (or  Fresh)  River.  They  took  posses- 
sion of  the  country,  by  right  of  discovery;  and  in  1623  erected 
a  trading-post,  called  the  House  of  Hope,  at  Hartford.  The 
pioneer  English  settlers  were  men  of  the  Plymouth  colony,  who, 
in  1633,  sailed  up  the  Connecticut  and  established  and  garri- 
soned a  trading-post  at  Windsor.  Soon  afterwards,  sundry  dis- 
affected pastors  and  people  of  the  Massachusetts  towns  of  Dor- 
chester, Cambridge  and  Watertown  marched  overland  to  Connecticut.  Watertown  occupied 
the  site  of  Wethersfield,  early  in  1635  5  Dorchester  settled  near  the  Plymouth  fort,  at  Wind- 
sor ;  and  Cambridge  colonized  Hartford.  Meantime,  the  Earl  of  Warwick  had  granted  this 
domain  to  Viscount  Say  and  Sele,  and  others ;  and  John  Winthrop,  Jr. ,  erected  a  fort  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Connecticut,  where  he  beat  off  a  Dutch  naval  expedition.  Another  colony, 
composed  largely  of  Yorkshire  Puritans,  and  led  by  the  Rev.  John  Davenport  and  Theoph- 
ilus  Eaton,  both  of  London,  reached  Boston  in  1637.  Finding  Massachusetts  unpromising 
as  a  place  for  settlement,  in  the  following  year  they  founded  New  Haven.  Soon  afterwards, 
a  Kentish  colony  settled  at  Menunkatuck  (Guilford) ;  and  men  of  Hertfordshire  occupied 
Wapoweage  (Milford).  These,  with  Stamford,  Bran- 
ford,  and  Southold  (Long  Island),  made  up  the  Com- 
monwealth of  New  Haven.  The  new  colony  repre- 
sented extreme  ecclesiastical  forms  and  influences ;  but 
after  a  long  fight  for  existence,  it  united  with  the  Con- 
necticut (or  Hartford)  colony  in  1662.  Stonington, 
Enfield,  Sufneld  and  Woodstock  were  for  many  years 
Massachusetts  towns.  The  boundary  agreed  upon  in 
1 664  ran  north-north  west  from  Mamaroneck,  and  crossed 
the  Hudson  at  West  Point,  leaving  Newburgh,  Pough- 
keepsie  and  Kingston  in  Connecticut.  The  greater  part 
of  Long  Island,  the  natural  sea-wall  of  Connecticut,  was 
ceded  to  the  English  by  Captain-General  Peter  Stuy- 
vesant,  in  1650,  In  1674  the  King  of  England  annexed  it  to  the  Province  of  New  York, 
then  pertaining  to  the  Duke  of  York,  to  whom  he  gave  also  all  of  Connecticut  as  far  as 
the  river.  The  latter  assignment  was  successfully  resisted  by  the  Connecticut  government ; 
but  Long  Island  passed  away  forever  from  its  rightful  owners. 

The  Connecticut  charter,  adopted  in  1639,  was  the  earliest  complete  code  of  civil  order 
written  in  America,  and  embodied  for  the  first  time  the  free  representative  plan  which  is 
still  paramount  in  the  States  and  the  Republic.  By  its  provisions,  the  people  stood  indepen- 
dent, and  the  supreme  power  was  the  Commonwealth.  The  colony  received  from  King  Charles 
II.,  in  1662,  a  liberal  charter,  giving  it  practical  self-government.  James  II.  labored  stren- 
uously to  vacate  all  the  New-England  charters;  and  in  1687  Sir  Edmund  Andros  came  to 

Hartford,  with  sixty  soldiers,  the  Assembly  being  in 
session,  and  demanded  the  charter  of  Connecticut.  The 
precious  document  was  laid  on  the  table,  in  the  pres- 
ence of  the  Assembly  and  Andros,  when  suddenly  the 
lights  were  extinguished,  and  Capt.  WTadsworth,  seizing 
the  charter,  cautiously  withdrew  and  secreted  it  in  a 
hollow  tree,  so  that  the  King  and  his  men  never  got 
hold  of  this  palladium  of  liberty.  The  tree  was  there- 
after known  and  honored  as  the  Charter  Oak,  and  re- 
mained standing  until  1856,  when  it  was  blown  down. 


NEW  HAVEN  :  JUDGES'  CAVE. 


REDDING  :  PUTNAM  PARK. 


THE  STATE  OF  CONNECTICUT. 


119 


WEST  HARTFORD  : 
NOAH  WEBSTER'S  BIRTHPLACE. 


A  marble  tablet  commemorates  its  site.  After  the  de- 
thronement of  James  II.,  the  colonial  government  contin- 
ued in  its  quasi-independent  way ;  and  the  charter  given 
by  Charles  II.  remained  unaltered  until  1818.  This  gen- 
erous document  confirmed  to  Connecticut  "the  soil  from 
Narragansett  Bay  on  the  east  to  the  South  Sea  on  the 
west,"  being  a  belt  seventy  miles  wide  across  the  conti- 
nent, including  parts  of  New  York,  Pennsylvania,  Ohio, 
Indiana,  Illinois,  Michigan,  Iowa,  Nebraska,  Wyoming, 
Colorado,  Utah,  Nevada,  and  California.  Most  of  this 
domain  was  given  up,  as  interfering  with  other  colonial 
grants  ;  and  the  proceeds  of  the  remainder  formed  the  basis  of  the  present  school-tund  of  the 
State.  The  venerable  charter  of  Charles  II.  is  sacredly  preserved  in  the  Capitol,  in  a  frame 
made  from  the  wood  of  the  Charter  Oak. 

The  so-called  Blue  Laws  were  a  libellous  production  by  a  hostile  writer  (the  Rev.  Samuel 
Peters),  and  had  no  adequate  foundation  in  fact.  The  early  jurisprudence  of  the  colony, 
though  touched  by  the  spirit  of  the  time,  was  to  the  full  as  lenient  and  humane  as  that  of 
any  other  New-England  commonwealth,  and  much  kindlier  than  that  of  England. 

The  delegates  of  Connecticut  stood  among  the  first  to  propose  in  Congress  a  declaration 
of  independence  from  England.  When  the  Revolution  broke  out,  Jonathan  Trumbull,  a 
warm  patriot  and  level-headed  man,  held  the  governorship ;  and  his  advice  was  so  valued 

by  General  Washington,  who  often  suggested  con- 
sultation with  "Brother  Jonathan,"  that  this  familiar 
nickname  came  to  be  representative  of  American 
manhood,  and  ultimately  of  the  Nation  itself.  Con- 
necticut troops  joined  in  the  capture  of  Fort  Ticori- 
deroga,  and  fired  deadly  volleys  from  the  rail-fence 
on  Bunker  Hill ;  and  4,000  marched  to  the  relief  of 
Boston,  in  April,  1775.  Of  Washington's  army  of 
17,000  men  around  New  York,  9,000  were  from 
Connecticut.  In  1777  Gov.  Try  on  and  2,000  British 
infantry  captured  Danbury,  but  suffered  severely  in 
the  retreat.  Two  years  later,  Tryon  and  3,000  British  soldiers  plundered  New  Haven,  and 
destroyed  Fairfield  and  Nor  walk,  losing  300  men.  In1 1 78 1  Benedict  Arnold,  the  traitor, 
stormed  Fort  Griswold,  and  burned  New  London.  Connecticut  sent  31,939  soldiers  into  the 
Continental  army.  Washington,  in  general  orders,  praised  "  the  soldier-like  and  veteran 
appearance,  cleanliness  and  steadiness  of  the  Connecticut  troops." 

After  Connecticut  had  become  fairly  peopled,  largely  by  migration  east  and  west  from 
the  valley,  new  swarms  went  out  from  the  colony,  and  settled  the  Hadley  and  Amherst  re- 
gion in  Massachusetts,  and  great  areas  of  New  York  and  Vermont.  The  Genesee  country 
of  New  York,  and  the  Western  Reserve  of  Ohio  (anciently  called  New  Connecticut),  were 
largely  peopled  from  this  State. 

At  the  outbreak  of  the  late   civil   war  the  militia  system  of  Connecticut 
was  not  efficient.      But  during  the  conflict  the  State  sent  into  the  army 
55*864  volunteers,  out  of  80, ooo  voters,  organized  into  twenty-eight  reg- 
iments of  infantry,  two  regiments  and  three  batteries  of  artillery, 
and  one  regiment  and  one  squadron  of  cavalry.    Of  these,  1,902  men 
were  killed  in  battle,  and  4, 7 1 9  men  died  of  disease,  or  were  missing. 
Among  the  interesting  memorials  of  ancient  days,  besides  the 
churches  and  mansions  in  the  gray  old  towns  along  the  Sound 
and  the  Connecticut  Valley,  are  several  notable  public  monuments. 
Nathan  Hale,  the  patriot  spy  of  the  Revolution,  is  honored  by  a    SHARON  ;  SOLDIERS'  MONUMENT. 


MILFORD  :    STONE  BRIDGE. 


I2O 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED  STATES. 


BROOKLYN  :  PUTNAM  STATUE. 


lofty  granite  pyramid  in  South  Coventry,  bearing  his  dying  words  : 

"I  only  regret  that  I  have  but  one  life  to  lose  for  my  country." 

There    is  also  a  statue   of  Hale  in  the  State-House.     A  granite 

obelisk  on  the  heights  of  Groton  commemorates  the  brave  garrison 

of  Fort  Griswold,  massacred  by  British  troops,  after  a  hard  battle, 

in  1 781.      In  Redding,  near  the  ruined  barracks  of  Putnam's  division 

of  the  Continental  Army,  in  1778-79,  the   State  has  erected  a  lofty 

obelisk,  and  has  reserved  the  camp-ground  as  a  State  park.      This 

is  the  only  remaining  cantonment  of  the  armies  of  the  Revolution, 

and  near  it  stands  the  venerable  Christ  Church.     The  remains  of 

the  brave  Gen.  Israel  Putnam  lie  at  Brooklyn,  Connecticut,  under 

a  monument  erected  in  1888  by  the  State,  and  crowned  by  an  eques- 
trian statue  of  the  hero.  A  bronze  statue  of  Capt.  John  Mason  was 

erected  in   1889  on  Pequot  Hill,  near   Mystic,  where   that  brave 

officer  broke  the  power  of  the  Pequot  tribe.      From  this  point  the  view  reaches  three  States, 

15  towns,  20  islands,  and  seven  lighthouses.      In  1889  Milford  erected  a  memorial  stone 

bridge  over  her  river,   guarded  at  one  end  by  a  round  tower  roofed  with  Spanish  tiles, 

and  bearing  below  its  parapets  the  names  of  the  founders  of  the  town.  There  are  scores  of 

monuments  in  commemoration  of  the  soldiers  of 
the  late  civil  war,  from  the  magnificent  Arch  at 
Hartford  and  the  lofty  shaft  on  East  Rock,  New 
Haven,  crowned  with  a  colossal  Angel  of  Peace, 
and  surrounded  by  bronze  statues  and  reliefs,  to  the 
simpler  monuments  on  many  a  quiet  village-green. 
The  Soldiers'  Memorial  Arch,  at  Hartford,  was  de- 
signed by  George  Keller,  and  erected  in  1886,  at  a 
cost  of  $60,000.  It  stands  on  the  bridge  in  Bush- 
nell  Park,  and  is  flanked  by  massive  round  towers 

HARTFORD  :    BRIDGE  AND  MEMORIAL  ARCH  IN  PARK.          more  than  IQO  feet  high,  with  COnical  roofs.       Above 

the  archway  a  sculptured  frieze  of  terra-cotta  statuary,  seven  feet  high,   runs  around  the 
entire  monument,  representing  "The  Story  of  the  War,"  and  "The  Return  of  the  Army." 


The  soldiers'  monument  at  Winchester  is  a  tall  square  tower,  crowned 
statue  of  Victory  ;  and  Winsted  commemorates  its  heroes  by  a  feudal  watch- 
granite,  63  feet  high,  with  a  colossal  bronze  soldier  on  the  top,  holding 
commemorative  of  the  patriotic  heroism  of  the  volunteers. 

The  Name  of  the  State  is  an  Algonquin  compound  word,  Quinneh- 
tukqut,  meaning  "The  Land  on  a  Long  Tidal  River."     THE  LAND  OF 
STEADY  HABITS  is  a  pet  name  given  to  Connecticut,  by  reason,  perhaps, 
of  the  settled  customs  and  sobriety  of  its  people.      It  is  also  called  The 
Freestone  State,  in  allusion  to  a  leading  product ;  and  The  Nutmeg 
State,  because  of  the  old  fable  that  its  travelling  traders  used  to  sell 
nutmegs  made  of  wood  to  their  patrons  of  the  Middle  States. 

The  State  Seal  was  given  by  George  Fenwick,  Governor  of 
Saybrook,  about  the  year  1644.  It  bears  three  vines  (Hartford, 
Windsor  and  Wethersfield),  on  a  white  field,  symbolizing  the 
colonies  brought  over  and  planted  in  the  wilderness  ;  and  the 
motto,  Qui  transtulit  sustinet,  expresses  faith  that  He  who 
brought  over  the  vines  continues  to  take  care  of  them. 

The  State  Governors  were:  Jonathan  Trumbull,  1769- 
84 ;  Matthew  Griswold,  1 784-6  ;  Samuel  Huntington,  1 786-96 ; 
Oliver  Wolcott,  1 796-7  ;  Jonathan  Trumbull,  1797-1809  ;  John 
Treadwell,  1809-11;  Roger  Griswold,  1811-12;  John  Cotton  NEW  MONUMENT^ON'EAS^ 


by  a  bronze 
tower,  of 
a  flag,  as 


THE  STATE   OF  CONNECTICUT. 


121 


CONNECTICUT    RIVER,    NEAR    HADDAM. 


Smith,  1812-17;  Oliver  Wolcott,  1817-27;  Gid- 
eon Tomlinson,  1827-31 ;  John  S.  Peters,  1831-3; 
Henry Waggaman  Edwards,  1833-4,  1835-8;  Sam- 
uel Augustus  Foot,  1834-5  ;  William  Walcott  Ells- 
worth, 1838-42;  Chauncey  F.  Cleveland,  1842-4; 
Roger  Sherman  Baldwin,  1844-6;  Isaac  Toucey, 
1846-7;  Clark  Bissell,  1847-9;  Joseph  Trumbull, 
1849-50;  Thomas  Hart  Seymour,  1850-3;  C.  H. 
Pond  (acting),  1853-4;  Henry  Button,  1854-5; 
William  Thomas  Minor,  1855-7;  Alex.  H.  Holley, 
1857-8;  William  Alfred  Buckingham,  1858-66; 
Joseph  Roswell  Hawley,  1866-7;  James  E.  English,  1867-9,  an&  1870-1  ;  Marshall  Jewell, 
1869-70,  and  1871-3;  Charles  R.  Ingersoll,  1873-7;  Richard  D.  Hubbard,  1877-9;  Charles 
B.  Andrews,  1879-81;  Hobart  B.  Bigelow,  1881-3;  Thomas  M.  Waller,  1883-5;  Henry 
B.  Harrison,  1885-7;  Phineas  C.  Lounsbury,  1887-9;  and  Morgan  G.  Bulkeley,  1889-93. 
The  Topography  of  the  State  deals  mainly  with  the  valleys  of  streams  emptying  into 
Long-Island  Sound.  The  northern  border  is  88  miles  long ;  the  southern  border,  100  miles ; 
the  eastern  boundary,  45  miles;  and  the  western,  72  miles.  The  beautiful  Connecticut 
River  divides  it  into  two  nearly  equal  parts,  the  old  Pequot  country,  on  the  east,  with  its 
low  hills  and  broken  vales,  and  thin  population ;  and  the  western  counties,  including  three 
fourths  of  the  inhabitants,  and  with  many  prosperous  manufacturing  places.  The  chief 
valley  of  the  east  is  that  of  the  Thames,  a  navigable  estuary  fifteen  miles  long,  entering  the 
Sound  at  New  London.  The  Connecticut  is  the  largest  river  of  New  England,  being  over 
400  miles  long.  Vessels  drawing  ten  feet  reach  Middletown,  and  those  drawing  eight  feet 
go  up  as  far  as  Hartford.  The  chief  river  of  the  west  is  the  Housatonic,  150  miles  long, 
rising  in  the  Berkshire  Hills,  and  flowing  through  a  picturesque  highland  region.  The 
Farmington  River  enters  the  Connecticut  above  Hartford,  traversing  a  rich  and  lovely  valley, 
in  a  course  of  singular  sinuosity. 

There  is  a  fine  line  of  hills  following  the  Housatonic  River,  reaching  its  chief  altitude  at 
Bear  Mountain,  in  Salisbury,  2,354  feet  high,  and  the  loftiest  peak  in  Connecticut.  Other 
summits  in  this  beautiful  region  are  Bald  Peak  (1,966  feet),  Mt.  Bradford  (1,960  feet),  Mo- 
hawk Mountain  (1,680),  and  Ivy  Mountain  (1,642).  Farther  east  is  a  continuation  of  the 
Green  Mountains  of  Vermont,  ending  with  East  Rock  and  West  Rock,  abrupt  and  pic- 
turesque eminences  about  400  feet  high,  near  New  Haven,  the  one  crowned  by  a  lofty  sol- 
diers' monument,  and  the  other  made  sacred  by  the  Judges'  Cave,  where  two  of  the  Regicides 
found  shelter  in  early  colonial  days.  The  Mount-Tom  range,  of  Massachusetts,  sinks  away 
in  the  Blue  Hills  of  Southington.  The  chief  range  east  of  the  Connecticut  River  runs  from 
Lyme  northward  to  Bald  Mountain,  in  Stafford,  and  thence  into  Massachusetts,  a  line  of 
granitic  summits,  marking  the  water-shed  between  the  Connecticut  and  Thames  Valleys. 
Beautiful  views  may  be  obtained  from  Bartlett's  Tower,  on  the  lofty  hills  northwest  of  Hart- 
ford ;  and  others  of  more  reach  from  the  mountains  of  Norfolk  and  Salisbury. 

The  Geology  of  Connecticut  is  chiefly  con- 
cerned with  the  ancient  Eozoic  period,  varied  by 
the  Post  Tertiary  terraces  of  the  great  valley,  and 
the  Triassic  sandstone  of  the  New-Haven  region. 
Through  the  red  sandstones  of  the  central  counties 
columnar  ridges  of  trap-rock  have  broken  their 
way,  and  show  sharp  westward  sides  and  gentle 
slopes  to  the  east.  The  hematite  iron  of  Kent, 
Cornwall  and  Salisbury  is  of  high  grade,  and 
many  of  the  weapons  used  in  the  Revolution  were 
made  therefrom.  The  copper-mines  at  East 


NAUGATUCK   RIVER. 


122 


KING^S    HANDBOOK  OF  THE   UNITED   STATES. 


WINSTED  :    LONG  POND. 


Granby  shut  down  in  1 760,  when  two  car- 
goes of  ore  were  lost ;  one  having  been 
wrecked  in  the  Channel  and  the  other  cap- 
tured by  the  French.  From  1775  to  1827 
the  subterranean  shafts  of  this  mine  served 
as  the  State  Prison.  The  Granby  coppers 
minted  in  1737,  and  the  first  United-States 
cents,  were  coined  from  metal  found  here. 
The  red  sandstone  of  Portland,  on  the  Con- 
necticut River,  has  been  used  in  immense 
quantities  for  building.  The  quarries  employ  800  men.  At  Canaan  and  Milford,  Roxbury 
and  Washington,  marble  and  limestone  are  quarried.  Bolton  and  Haddam  are  famous  for 
mica-slate  flagging,  used  for  80  years  for  paving,  largely  in  New  York  and  Washington. 
Elsewhere  there  are  quarries  of  granite  roofing  slate,  hydraulic  lime  and  porcelain  clay. 

The  Climate  is  severe,  but  healthful,  the  mean  temperature  being  48°  Fahrenheit. 
There  are  practically  two  seasons,  a  pleasant  summer,  lasting  from  April  to  November,  and 
a  bright,  clear  and  cold  winter,  with  dry  and  keen  northwest  winds,  keeping  the  sky  serene. 
The  death-rate  is  between  17  and  18  in  a  thousand,  being  lower  than  that  of  Europe  or 
Massachusetts. 

Agriculture  was  the  leading  business  up  to  1810,  when  the  mechanical  development 
began.  There  are  30,000  farms,  with  an  average  size  of  106  acres  in  1850;  99  in  1860; 
93  in  1870,  and  80  in  1880.  Tobacco  has  been  one  of  the  favorite  crops  ever  since  the  days 
of  the  aborigines,  who  cultivated  large  tracts  of  it.  The  old-time  "shoe-string"  tobacco, 
with  its  long  and  narrow  leaves,  has  been  superseded  by  a  broader  leaf,  raised  from  imported 
seed.  It  is  very  mild,  and  finds  its  chief  use  as  wrappers  and  binders  for  cigars  made  from 
the  strong-flavored  Havana  tobacco.  The  product  rose  from  472,000  pounds  in  1840  to 
14,000,000  pounds  in  1880,  with  a  value  of  $2,000,000. 

The  culture  of  tobacco  is  mostly  confined  to  the  valleys  of  the  Connecticut  and  Housa- 
tonic  Rivers.  The  dairy  is  the  leading  branch  of  agriculture  elsewhere.  Mixed  husbandry 
everywhere  prevails,  as  the  soil  and  climate  are  well  adapted  to  a  great  variety  of  fruits  and 
vegetables,  which  find  a  ready  home  market. 

Connecticut  abounds  in  attractive  scenery,  and  holds  within  its  borders  many  well-known 
summer-resorts.  Among  these  favorite  scenes  are  the  vales  of  ancient  Litchfield  ;  the  land- 
scape charms  of  Winsted  and  its  Mad  River ;  the  western  ridges  of  Newtown  and  New  Mil- 
ford  ;  Killingly's  lovely  valley,  between  the  heights  of  Mashentuck  and  Breakneck  ;  the  rich 
Piedmontese  scenery  of  the  Salisbury  region,  abounding  in  lakes  and  mountains  ;  the  fertile 
and  enriching  intervales  of  the  Connecticut  River,  overarched  by  majestic  trees  ;  the  fair  rural 
scenes  about  Woodstock  and  Pomfret ;  and  the  picturesque  wooing  of  land  and  water  along 
Long-Island  Sound.  The  southern  shore  is  rich  in  beauty  of  scenery,  and  contains  scores 
of  summer-resorts,  from  Indian  Harbor  and  Greenwich,  on  the  west,  by  Fairfield  and  Savin 
Rock,  the  Thimble  Islands  and  Saybrook,  to  New  London  and  Stonington.  There  are  many 
harbors  along  this  embayed  coast,  more  than 
enough  for  the  scanty  maritime  commerce.  Among 
these  are  Fairfield,  Bridgeport,  New  Haven,  Say- 
brook,  Stonington  and  New  London.  The  last- 
named  is  one  of  the  best  harbors  on  the  Atlantic 
coast,  deep  and  capacious,  and  free  from  ice. 

The  Government  officers  of  the  State  are 
elected  for  two  years.  They  include  the  gover- 
nor, lieutenant-governor,  secretary  of  the  State, 
treasurer  and  comptroller.  The  Senate  has  24 
members,  and  the  House  of  Representatives  NEW  LONDON  :  THAMES  BRIDGE. 


THE  STATE   OF  CONNECTICUT. 


123 


has  about  250  members.  The  United-States 
Circuit  Court  holds  yearly  terms  at  New  Haven 
and  Hartford ;  and  the  United-States  District 
Courts  hold  two  sessions  in  each  of  those  cities 
yearly.  The  State  tribunals  include  the  Su- 
preme Court  of  Errors,  with  a  chief  justice  and 
four  associates  ;  the  Superior  Court,  six  judges 
and  the  five  mentioned  above ;  five  courts  of 
common  pleas,  and  numerous  inferior  courts 
and  probate  courts.  The  general  statutes  were 
revised  in  1888,  and  form  an  admirable  code  of 
laws  for  the  public  welfare.  HARTFORD:  N.-Y.  &  N.-E.  RAILROAD  BRIDGE. 

The  State  Capitol,  at  Hartford,  built  of  East-Canaan  white  marble,  at  a  cost  of  $2,500,- 
ooo,  crowns  a  beautiful  hill  in  Bushnell  Park,  bought  by  the  city  from  Trinity  College,  and 
given  to  the  State.  It  is  in  secular  Gothic  architecture,  designed  by  Upjohn,  and  has  a 
length  of  300  feet,  broken  by  columns,  arches,  galleries,  arcades,  and  commemorative  sculp- 
tures and  statuary.  The  noble  twelve-sided  dome  rises  to  a  height  of  275  feet,  and  is 
crowned  by  a  bronze  statue  of  "  The  Genius  of  Connecticut."  The  Capital  is  fire-proof.  It 
contains  the  senate  chamber,  representatives'  hall,  Supreme-Court  room,  and  State  Library > 
and  the  great  battle-flag  corridor.  In  Bushnell  Park  are  statues  of  Gen.  Israel  Putnam  (by 
J.  Q.  A.  Ward),  Ex-Gov.  R.  D.  Hubbard,  and  Dr.  Horace  Wells,  a  discoverer  of  anaesthesia. 
Here  also  stands  the  Memorial  Arch.  Within  the  Capitol  are  statues  of  Nathan  Hale  and 
William  A.  Buckingham,  the  War-Governor  of  Connecticut. 

The  Militia  is  under  the  governor,  as  commander-in-chief,  with  seven  general  staff- 
officers  and  aides-de-camp.  The  State  troops,  officially  entitled  the  Connecticut  National 
Guard,  form  a  brigade  of  four  regiments  of  infantry  (34  companies),  a  battery  of  light  artillery, 
a  battalion  of  colored  infantry  (three  companies),  and  a  small  signal  corps.  The  Governor's 
Guards  include  the  first  (Hartford,  chartered  in  1771)  and  second  (New  Haven,  1775)  com- 
panies of  Fort  Guards,  and  the  first  (Hartford,  1788)  and  second  (New  Haven,  1808)  com- 
panies of  Horse  Guards.  The  State  Arsenal,  at  Hartford,  was  built  in  1812,  and  contains 
many  military  relics  and  curiosities.  There  is  a  State  armory  at  New  London.  The  militia 
goes  into  camp  every  year,  at  Niantic,  near  Long-Island  Sound.  Fitch's  Soldiers'  Home,  at 
Noroton  Heights,  near  the  Sound,  contains  200  disabled  Connecticut  veterans  of  the  Seces- 
sion War.  It  belongs  to  the  State. 

Charities  and  Corrections. — The  American  Asylum  for  the  Education  and  Instruc- 
tion of  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  was  incorporated  in  1816,  largely  through  the  efforts  of  Dr. 
Thomas  H.  Gallaudet,  and  opened  in  1817,  at  Hartford.  It  received  23,000  acres  of  land 
from  Congress,  besides  large  State  aid,  and  now  owns  property  valued  at  $400,000.  Here 
2, 500  children  have  been  instructed,  90  per  cent,  of  them  being  New-Englanders.  Prof. 
Alexander  Graham  Bell's  system  of  visible  speech  is  taught ;  and  industrial  training  is  an 
essential  feature.  Most  of  the  flourishing  schools  for  deaf-mutes  throughout  America  have 

been  assisted  and  officered  thence.  The  State 
General  Hospital  for  the  Insane  occupies  imposing 
stone  buildings  on  a  hill  near  Middletown,  over- 
looking the  Connecticut.  It  accommodates  1,400 
patients.  The  Retreat  for  the  Insane  was  founded, 
at  Hartford,  in  1824,  and  has  above  150  inmates, 
mainly  those  who  can  afford  good  accommodations. 
The  State  Prison,  at  Wethersfield,  near  Hartford, 
dates  from  1827,  and  holds  250  convicts.  The 
buildings  are  of  red  sandstone.  The  Storrs  Ag- 
HARTFORD  :  DEAF  AND  DUMB  ASYLUM.  ricultural  School  is  a  State  institution  (established 


I24 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


upon  a  farm  given  by  the  Storrs  family), 
in  the  town  of  Mansfield.  The  Indus- 
trial School  for  Girls,  founded  in  1870  by 
private  charity,  is  mainly  supported  by 
MIDDLE-TOWN  :  INDUSTRIAL  SCHOOL  FOR  GIRLS.  the  State,  and  has  a  group  of  handsome 

and  commodious  buildings,  at  Middletown.  Fifty  or  more  vagrant  girls,  of  from  eight  to 
1 6  years,  are  here  taught  housekeeping  and  sewing,  and  farm  and  garden  work.  The 
State  Reform  School,  founded  at  Meriden,  in  1854,  has  a  domain  of  195  acres,  where  bad 
boys  of  from  ten  to  1 6  years  are  sent  by  the  courts,  and  required  to  work  for  six  and 
a  half  hours,  and  to  study  for  four  and  a  half  hours  each  day ;  400  boys  are  kept  here. 
The  divine  cause  of  charity  is  well  represented  in  the  orphan  asylums  at  Hartford  and  New 
Haven ;  the  hospitals  at  Hartford,  New  Haven,  Waterbury,  Danbury  and  Bridgeport ;  and 
the  State  School  for  Imbeciles,  at  Lakeville. 

The  National  Works  in  Connecticut  include  the  massive  granite  fortress  of  Fort 
Trumbull,  near  New  London,  and  the  dismantled  Forts  Hale  and  Wooster,  below  New 
Haven.  There  are  more  than  a  score  of  lighthouses  along  the  Sound,  and  several  lights  on 
the  river.  In  1867  the  Government  secured  land  for  a  navy-yard  on  the  Thames,  where 
there  is  a  deep  and  capacious  harbor.  This  station  would  command  the  eastern  entrance  of 
Long-Island  Sound,  "  the  Mediterranean  of  the  Western  Hemisphere."  In  the  long  years 
of  peace,  since  the  site  was  set  apart  for  naval  uses,  but  little  has  been  done  for  its  equip- 
ment, which  awaits  the  coming  of  the  day  of  need. 

Education  is  supervised  by  a  State  Board.  The  schools  have  been  maintained,  partly 
by  taxes ;  partly  by  rate-bills,  discontinued  in  1868  ;  and  partly  by  the  income 
of  funds.  Local  school-funds  were  raised  a  century  and  a  half  ago 
by  the  land  sales  and  excise  on  tea,  liquors  and  other  luxuries.  The 
State  school-fund  came  from  the  sale  of  Western  lands,  be- 
longing to  Connecticut  by  her  Stuart  charter,  and  disposed  of 
for  $1,200,000,  which  has  since  grown  to  above  $2,000,000, 
invested  in  seven-per-cent.  land-mortgages.  There  are  1,400 
school-districts,  and  400  male  and  2, 700  female  teachers.  The 
yearly  expenditure  for  the  public-schools  is  $1,800,000.  The 
Connecticut  Normal  Training  School,  founded  at  New  Britain, 
in  1850,  has  330  students,  and  about  60  graduates  yearly.  Many  of  the  local  schools  have  fine 
buildings,  like  that  of  the  Hartford  Public  High  School,  a  fire-proof  structure  236  feet  long, 
with  handsome  Gothic  towers,  one  of  which  contains  a  powerful  telescope,  equipped  by 
Warner  &  Swasey.  Connecticut  furnishes  more  college  students,  in  proportion  to  her  pop- 
ulation, than  any  other  State. 

Yale  University  was  founded  in  1701,  by  the  ten  chief  Congregational  ministers,  as  the 
Collegiate  School  of  Connecticut;  and  remained  at  Killingworth  and  Saybrook  until  1716, 
when  it  was  moved  to  New  Haven.  In  1718  it  received  the  name  of  its  benefactor,  Elihu 
Yale,  who  was  at  one  time  Governor  of  the  East-India  Company's  settlement  at  Madras. 

In  1887,  the  name  of  Yale  University  was 
authorized  by  law.  There  are  four  depart- 
ments :  Philosophy  and  the  Arts  (including 
the  Academic  Department,  the  School  of 
Fine  Arts,  and  the  Sheffield  Scientific  School), 
Theology,  Medicine  (1813),  and  Law.  The 
University  Library  contains  150,000  volumes 
and  a  vast  number  of  pamphlets ;  and  there 
are  over  50,000  volumes  in  the  professional 
and  Linonian  libraries.  The  Peabody  Mu- 
MERIDEN  ;  THE  STATE  REFORM  SCHOOL.  seum  of  Natural  History,  endowed  by  George 


HARTFORD   '. 
THE    WADSWORTH    ATHEN/€UM. 


THE  STATE   OF  CONNECTICUT. 

.&'-^ 


Peabody,  in  1866,  with  $150,000, 
contains  rich  and  extensive  collec- 
tions, in  various  interesting  lines  of 
research.  There  are  80  graduate  stu- 
dents, 830  in  the  academic  depart- 
ment, 380  in  the  scientific  school, 
50  students  in  art,  140  in  theology, 
50  in  medicine,  and  no  in  law; 
1, 500  in  all,  with  63  professors  and  '- 

70  other  instructors.     The  Chittenden  Memorial  Library, 
erected  in  1888-89,  *s  an  imposing  Romanesque  building  of 
Longmeadow  sandstone.      Osborn  Hall,  a  recitation-room 
building,  also  of  1888-89,  is  a  Byzantine-Romanesque  struc- 
ture of  Stony-Creek  granite,  and  is  a  most  noticeable  structure.     This  richly  decorated  build- 
ing contrasts  strangely  with  the  Puritan  sim- 
plicity of  the  contiguous  older  halls.     The  Art 
School  owns  122  ancient  Italian  paintings  (the 
Jarves  Collection),  54  pictures  of  the  Trum- 
bull  Gallery,  100  modern  paintings,  and   150 
casts  and  marble  sculptures.     The  University 
grounds  are  adorned  by  statues  of  Abraham 
Pierson,  the  first  Rector,  or  President  (1701-7), 
and  Prof.  Benjamin  Silliman,  the  eminent  phy- 
sicist.    Yale  has  exhibited  a  notable  growth 
NEW  HAVEN  :  CHITTENDEN  MEMORIAL  LIBRARY.  for  many  years,  and  is  one  of  the  four  great 


126 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   S7^ATES. 


NEW    LONDON  I 
WILLIAMS  MEMORIAL  INSTITUTE. 


universities  of  America.  She  has  given  to  politics  Cal- 
houn  and  Evarts,  Tilden  and  Mason ;  to  literature,  Sted- 
man  and  Willis,  Percival  and  Pierpont,  Fenimore  Cooper, 
Donald  G.  Mitchell  and  Theodore  Winthrop  ;  to  theol- 
ogy, Woolsey  and  Bushnell,  D  ight  and  Hopkins,  and 
Jonathan  Edwards;  to  science,  Morse  and  Whitney, 
Dana  and  Silliman;  and  to  lexicography,  Webster  and 
Worcester. 

Trinity  College  was  founded  largely  by  Episcopalians, 
and  incorporated  in  1823  as  Washington  College.  Bishop 
T.  C.  Brownell  became  the  first  president;  and  in  1825  two  brownstone  buildings  were 
erected.  In  1845  the  name  was  changed  to  Trinity.  After  a  half-century,  the  campus  be- 
came the  site  of  the  new  State  Capitol ;  and  the  present  beautiful  buildings,  a  part  of  an 
elaborate  plan,  in  early  French  secular  Gothic  architecture,  arose  on  a  far-viewing  hill  in 
the  southwestern  part  of  Hartford,  on  the  edge  of  a  campus  of  80  acres.  To  these  have 
been  lately  added  an  Alumni  hall  and  gymnasium,  and  a  science  hall,  for  laboratories. 
There  are  ten  professors  and  ten  lecturers,  and  140  students.  They  represent  18  States.  A 
noble  statue  of  Bishop  Brownell  adorns  the  college  lawn.  The  library  contains  32,000  vol- 
umes ;  and  there  is  a  valuable  museum. 

Wesleyan  University,  founded  in  1831,  is  under  the  control  of  the  Methodist  Church. 
Among  its  presidents  were  Wilbur  Fisk  (1830-39);  Stephen  Olin  (1842-51);  Nathan 
Bangs,  and  A.  W.  Smith.  It  is  in  Middletown, 
upon  the  avenue  which  Charles  Dickens  declared 
to  be  the  finest  rural  street  that  he  had  ever  seen. 
There  are  several  good  buildings  and  chapter- 
houses. Since  1872,  women  have  been  admitted. 
The  University  has  20  professors  and  instructors, 
and  230  students.  The  value  of  the  plant  and 
endowments  of  Wesleyan  is  about  $1,600,000. 
The  library  contains  40,000  volumes. 

The  Hartford  Theological  Seminary  was  founded 
in  1833  by  the  Pastoral  Union,  as  a  protest  against  what  was  conceived  to  be  the  objection- 
able philosophical  tendency  of  the  Yale  Divinity  School.  In  1834  buildings  were  erected 
at  East  Windsor;  and  in  1865  the  institution  moved  to  Hartford,  where  it  occupied  the 
noble  Hosmer  Hall  in  1879.  There  are  12  instructors  and  60  students.  The  library  con- 
tains 46,000  volumes.  A  marked  extension  of  the  scope  and  methods  of  the  institution  has 
lately  been  going  forward.  The  Berkeley  Divinity  School  (Episcopal),  at  Middletown,  was 
founded  in  1850.  It  has  more  than  300  graduates.  There  are  six  instructors  and  30  students. 
The  Williams  Memorial  Institute  is  a  handsome  Romanesque  building  of  pink  granite, 
erected  in  1889  on  a  hill  over  New  London,  for  the  free  education  of  girls.  The  richly- 
endowed  Norwich  Free  Academy  has  250  students,  in  efficient  classical  and  general  courses, 

r t     with  a  normal  training-school  for  girls.    The  Slater 

Memorial  Building  belongs  to  the  Free  Academy, 
and  is  a  handsome  structure  of  brick  and  brown- 
stone,  with  effective  towers  and  porticos.  The  in- 
terior is  faced  with  pressed  brick  and  terra  cotta, 
and  wainscoted  with  polished  gray  marble,  and  in- 
cludes a  hall  seating  1,100  persons,  and  the  Peck 
Library.  The  great  upper  hall  contains  a  mu- 
seum of  227  casts  from  the  most  famous  sculp- 
tures ;  an  original  Rembrandt ;  many  valuable 
HARTFORD  :  TRINITY  COLLEGE.  modern  French  paintings,  by  Corot,  Millet  and 


MIDDLETOWN  :    WESLEYAN  UNIVERSITY. 


THE  STATE   OF   CONNECTICUT. 


127 


NEW  LONDON  :    THE  PUBLIC  LIBRARY. 


others;  a  great  number  of  electrotypes  of  rare 
Greek  coins ;  and  many  hundreds  of  Braun  and 
Brogi  photographs.  This  admirable  teaching  col- 
lection is  free  to  the  people,  thousands  of  whom 
visit  it  every  month.  The  building  was  erected 
and  equipped  by  William  A.  Slater,  as  a  memorial 
of  his  father,  John  F.  Slater,  the  noble  philanthro- 
pist who  gave  $1,000,000  for  the  education  of 
Southern  negroes.  This  great  fund  is  adminis- 
tered by  trustees,  and  its  income  reaches  and 
strengthens  nearly  50  collegiate  and  professional  schools  in  the  States  of  the  South. 

There  are  many  good  private  schools,  like  Bacon  Academy,  at  Colchester,  founded  in 
1780;  the  Connecticut  Literary  Institution,  in  the  lovely  old  rural  hamlet  of  Sumeld ;  the 
Episcopal  Academy  of  Connecticut,  in  the  valley  town  of  Cheshire ;  the  famous  old  Gun- 
nery, at  Washington ;  the  McLean  Seminary,  at  Simsbury  ;  and  the  first-class  academies  at 
Hartford,  New  Haven,  Bridgeport,  Stamford,  and  other  places. 

The  chief  public  libraries  are  those  of  Bridgeport,  17,000  volumes ;  Norwich,  16,000; 
Waterbury,  38,000;  and  the  great  college  and  reference  libraries  at  New  Haven,  Hartford 
and  Middletown.  The  Wadsworth  Athenaeum,  at  Hartford,  is  a  castellated  building  of 
Glastenbury  gneiss,  containing  rich  collections  of  statuary  and  paintings ;  the  interesting 
museum  and  library  of  22,000  volumes,  belonging  to  the  Connecticut  Historical  Society; 
the  Hartford  Library,  of  35,000  volumes;  and  the  richly  endowed  Watkinson 
Library  of  Reference  of  44,000  standard  books.  A  fund  of  $400,000  has  just  been 
subscribed,  to  create  out  of  the  different  institutions  in  the 
Athenaeum  Building,  a  great  free  public  library,  art-school, 
art-gallery,  and  school  of  history.  The  late  J.  S.  Morgan 
of  London,  long  time  a  resident  of  Hartford,  gave  $100,- 
ooo  towards  this  object.  The  State  Library  contains 
12,000  volumes.  The  Public  Library  of  New  London, 
built  in  1889,  is  a  handsome  Romanesque  edifice  of  pink 
granite,  with  a  red  tile  roof,  and  arcades  covered  by  groined 
arches  of  stone. 

Books  have  for  many  years  been  an  important  product.  The  first  press  in  the  colony 
began  its  work  at  New  London,  in  1 709,  and  another  was  set  up  by  Thomas  Green,  at 
Hartford,  in  1764.  The  first  locally  printed  book  was  The  Say  brook  Platform.  The  sub- 
scription-book business,  the  great  feature  of  Connecticut  publishing,  was  founded  by  Silas 
Andrus,  at  Hartford,  more  than  60  years  ago.  Peter  Parley's  works,  Mrs.  Stowe's  first 
book,  the  Cottage  Bible,  Olney's  school-books,  Mark  Twain's  earlier  works,  Headley's 
Great  Rebellion,  and  Richardson's  Beyond  the  Mississippi,  were  published  in  Connecticut. 

The  most  widely-known  journal  in  Connecticut  is  the  Hartford  Courant,  the  oldest  news- 
paper in  America,  having  been  founded  in  1764.  Its 
early  files  contain  discussions  of  the  Stamp  Act,  the 
siege  of  Boston,  the  hunting  of  Burgoyne,  the  ad- 
ministration of  Washington,  and  similar  matters.  It 
is  a  Republican  paper,  its  present  managers  having 
been  among  the  organizers  of  that  party  in  the  State. 
Its  editorial  and  literary  departments  are  of  recog- 
nized ability,  and  it  has  many  special  features  of  in- 
terest, including  the  best  correspondence  from  New 
York,  Boston,  and  foreign  capitals  ;  and  its  news  de- 
partments are  maintained  with  a  high  degree  of  effi- 
ciency. The  owners  of  the  Courant  are  Senator  and  HARTFORD  :  THE  HIGH  SCHOOL. 


NORWICH  FREE  ACADEMY  : 
THE  SLATER  MEMORIAL  BUILDING. 


128 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE    UNITED   SJ'ATES. 


HARTFORD  :    HARTFORD  COURANT. 


General  Joseph  R.  Hawley, 'Charles  Dudley  Warner,  William  H. 
Goodrich  and  Charles  H.  Clark.  It  has  a  national  reputation, 
and  a  wide  circulation  among  intelligent  readers.  In  many  old 
Connecticut  families,  including  those  that  have  moved  to  other 
States,  it  has  been  taken  continuously  for  the  century  and  a  quar- 
ter which  it  has  been  published ;  and  during  its  long  career  it 
has  absorbed  more  than  100  other  journals.  The  Courant\M=> 
a  handsome  six-story  building,  facing  the  post-office,  on  the  his- 
toric "square. "  George  D.  Prentice,  afterward  of  the  Louisville 
Courier-Journal,  was  at  one  time  engaged  in  journalism  in  Hart- 
ford as  editor  of  the  Review;  and  he  "discovered"  John  G. 
Whittier,  and  there  introduced  him  to  the  public.  Mr.  Whit- 
tier  was  Prentice's  successor,  and  lived  in  Hartford  several  years. 
Two  of  the  leading  religious  papers  in  America  (now  published 
elsewhere)  were  founded  in  Hartford  —  The  Congregationalist  (\VL 
1839)  and  The  Churchman  (in  1865).  Connecticut  has  34  daily 
newspapers,  113  weeklies,  21  monthlies,  and  four  quarterlies. 
Five  are  in  German,  and  one  in  Swedish ;  six  are  devoted  to  religion,  one  to  farming,  and 
three  to  labor.  Science,  socialism,  prohibition,  art  and  music  have  their  special  organs. 

Maritime  Commerce  is  of  but  little  consequence  here,  most  of  it  passing  to  New  York. 
Two  hundred  and  fifty  vessels  enter  and  clear  yearly  in  foreign  trade,  and  4,000  in  the  coast- 
wise trade  and  fisheries.  The  fishing  fleet  numbers  nearly  300  vessels,  with  1,200  sailors, 
and  an  annual  product  of  $800,000.  It  sails  from  New  London  and  Stonington ;  and  more 
than  a  quarter  of  the  tonnage  is  in  the  whaling  business.  The  imports  and  exports  of  New 
Haven  are  tenfold  greater  than  all  the  others  combined,  passing  $4,000,000  a  year.  A  profit- 
able Connecticut  industry  is  the  propagation  of  oysters,  in  artificial  beds  along  the  Sound, 
east  and  west  of  New  Haven. 

The  Railroads  of  Connecticut  are  22  in  number,  with  $67,000,000  of  stock  (of  which 
$19,000,000  is  held  by  5,500  stockholders  in  this  State);  debts  amounting  to  $41,000,000, 
and  permanent  investments  of  $112,000,000.  Their  net  income  is  $3,000,000  a  year. 
Nearly  700  miles  are  included  in  the  Consolidated,  or  New- York,  New-Haven  &  Hartford 
system.  The  railways  from  New  York  to  Boston  and  the  east  cross  Connecticut  and  carry 
a  prodigious  travel,  which  is  protected  by  careful  State  inspection.  The  railway  stations  at 
Hartford,  New  Haven,  New  London,  and  other  cities,  are  costly  and  attractive  modern 
structures.  The  entire  coast  of  Long-Island  Sound  is  followed  by  a  line  of  railway,  passing 
through  Stonington  and  New  London,  New  Haven  and  Bridgeport.  The  Shore-Line  trains, 
from  Boston  and  Providence  to  New  York,  traverse  this  route.  A  line  of  magnificent  and 
luxurious  steamboats  connects  Stonington  and  New  York  daily,  traversing  Long-Island 
Sound,  and  connecting  directly  with  the  railway-trains  to  and  from  Boston.  The 
New-York  &  New-England  Railroad,  from  Boston 
to  Newburgh,  runs  across  interior  Connecticut  for  132 
miles,  with  branches  to  Worcester  and  Springfield, 
and  to  New  London,  connecting  daily  with  steamboats 
for  New  York.  Trains  by  this  route  from  Boston  or 
Providence  to  New  York  run  down  to  Willimantic, 
where  some  of  them  pass  through  Middletown,  and 
others  through  Hartford,  in  either  case  reaching  New 
WATERBURY  :  CITY  HALL  AND  BRONsoN  LIBRARY.  Haven,  and  thence  following  the  shore.  The  running 
time  from  Boston  to  New  York  is  six  hours  ;  and  these  commodious  and  swift-running  trains, 
with  their  parlor  and  dining-cars,  form  a  favorite  mode  of  travel  for  business  men,  between 
the  great  cities.  The  line  traverses  a  picturesque  region,  and  gives  passing  views  of  many 
interesting  places.  The  great  bridge  which  carries  this  line  across  the  Connecticut  River 


THE  STATE   OF  CONNECTICUT. 


129 


HARTFORD  '.     SOLDIERS' 
MEMORIAL   ARCH. 


at  Hartford  was  erected  by  the  Boston  Bridge  Works,  and  is  a 
triumph  of  engineering.  The  Central  New-England  &  Western 
Railroad  (closely  allied  with  the  New- York  &  New-England) 
runs  westward  from  Hartford  to  the  Hudson  River,  crossing  on 
the  great  Poughkeepsie  Bridge.  The  north  and  south  lines  include 
the  Housatonic,  from  Bridgeport,  on  the  Sound,  to  the  Berkshire 
Hills  ;  the  Naugatuck  ;  the  New-Haven  &  Northampton  ;  the  New- 
York,  New-Haven  &  Hartford,  reaching  northward  to  Springfield, 
and  forming  part  of  the  great  Springfield  line  from  Boston  to 
New  York  ;  the  route  following  the  Connecticut  River  from  Hart- 
ford to  the  Sound ;  the  New-London  &  Northern,  reaching  up  into 
Vermont ;  and  the  Norwich  &  Worcester.  The  Thames-River 
Railway  bridge,  built  at  New  London,  in  1888-9,  ^s  a  gr£at  and 
ingenious  steel  structure,  with  a  draw-bridge  503  feet  long,  and 
containing  1,200  tons  of  steel.  The  iron  truss-bridge  at  Warehouse  Point,  crossing  the  Con- 
necticut River,  rests  on  17  granite  piers.  It  was  built  at  Manchester,  England,  in  1866. 
Connecticut  has  13,000  miles  of  wagon-roads,  costing  $650,000  a  year,  and  fairly  kept 
up.  Steamboat  lines  connect  Stonington,  New  London,  New  Haven  and  Bridgeport  with 
New  York  :  and  others  cross  Long- Island  Sound,  from  New  London  and  Hartford  to  Sag- 
Harbor  ;  from  Bridgeport  to  Port  Jefferson  ;  and  from 
New  London  to  Block  Island. 

The  Finances  of  Connecticut  are  wisely  and 
cautiously  administered,  owing  partly  to  the  even 
balance  of  the  political  parties.  The  net  State  debt 
amounts  to  $1,240,000  ;  and  the  cities  and  towns  owe 
about  $17,000,000,  mainly  due  to  the  enormous  ex- 
penses of  the  Secession  War,  to  railroad  subsidies,  and 
local  improvements  in  water-supplies,  sewerage-sys- 
tems, and  streets.  The  yearly  expenses  of  the  State 
are  $  1 , 200,  ooo,  one  third  of  which  goes  to  the  schools 
and  the  judiciary,  the  remainder  being  used  for  other  public  purposes. 

Chief  Cities. — New  Haven,  with  its  many  manufactures  and  the  great  Yale  University, 
lies  at  the  head  of  a  fine  salt-water  harbor,  stretching  over  an  alluvial  plain,  and  overlooked 
by  abrupt  and  picturesque  hills.  It  is  famous  for  the  noble  elms  which  overarch  its  streets, 
and  has  many  fine  public  buildings  and  churches. 

Hartford,  the  capital  city,  lies  along  the  navigable  Connecticut  River,  aud  has  great 
manufacturing  interests,  numerous  converging  railways,  many  handsome  churches  and  public 


HARTFORD  :    CHARTER-OAK  RACE-TRACK. 


NORWICH    HARBOR    AND   THE    THAMES    RIVER. 


buildings,  benevolent  institutions,  schools  and  libraries.  Here  dwell  Mrs.  Stowe,  Mark 
Twain  and  Charles  Dudley  Warner.  The  city  is  said  to  be  the  richest,  for  its  population, 
in  America  ;  and  has  a  world-wide  fame  for  its  immensely  wealthy  insurance-companies. 


HANDBOOK  OP  THE  UNITED  STATES. 


Bridgeport  is  a  railway  and  steamboat  centre,  56  miles  east  of  New  York,  with  a  wonderful 
variety  of  manufactures,  of  sewing-machines,  corsets,  cartridges,  and  many  other  articles. 
It  is  a  handsome  city,  adorned  with  pleasant  parks,  and  a  magnificent  esplanade  road  look- 
ing out  from  Seaside  Park  over  Long- Island  Sound.  To  the  westward  is  tranquil  old  Fair- 
field,  one  of  the  most  refined  and  charming  villages  on  the  Sound.  New  London  looks  out 
from  its  hill-streets  over  the  openings  of  the  Thames  to  the  aristocratic  summer-villas  and 
hotels  along  the  Sound.  It  has  many  antique  mansions  and  immemorial  elms ;  and  in  the 
chancel  of  St.  -James  Church  is  buried  Samuel  Seabury,  the  first  American  Episcopal  Bishop 


HARTFORD,  THE  CAPITAL  OF  CONNECTICUT. 

(1784).  In  summer,  steamboats  run  from  New  London  to  Fisher's  Island,  Watch  Hill, 
Block  Island,  Shelter  Island,  Long  Island,  and  other  places.  This  was  once  a  renowned 
whaling-port,  and  now  manufactures  silks  and  woolens. 

At  Norwich,  a  beautiful  little  city  at  the  head- waters  of  the  Thames,  is  the  grave  of  the 
great  Indian  chieftain,  Uncas.  A  simple  monument,  marking  the  grave,  was  dedicated  with 
ceremonies  in  which  Andrew  Jackson  took  part.  There  is  also  a  memorial  stone,  marking 
the  spot  where  Miantonomi  was  slain  by  Uncas.  Mrs.  Lydia  Sigourney ;  T.  Sterry  Hunt, 
the  Canadian  scientist ;  President  Oilman,  of  the  Johns-Hopkins  University ;  President 
Timothy  Dwight  (second),  of  Yale,  and  Donald  G.  Mitchell  were  natives  of  Norwich.  Ston- 
ington,  perched  on  its  narrow  rocky  point  at  the  east  end  of  the  Sound,  remembers  August, 
1814,  when  the  Ramilies.  Pactolus,  and  other  British  war-ships,  bombarded  it  for  three  days. 
At  the  other  end  of  the  State  are  Stamford  and  Greenwich,  now  practically  suburbs  of  New 
York,  with  the  beauty  of  architecture,  lawns  and  flowers  added  to  their  natural  seaside 
charms.  Among  the  inland  towns  are  Waterbury,  on  the  Naugatuck,  with  handsome 
churches  and  great  factories  ;  New  Britain,  a  rich  industrial  hive  among  the  hills ;  Middle- 
town,  beautifully  placed  on  a  great  bend  in  the  Connecticut ;  Winsted,  harnessing  Mad 
River  into  its  iron  and  steel  works ;  and  Meriden,  near  a  picturesque  range  of  hills,  and 
containing  the  great  Britannia  works  among  its  many  large  and  varied  industries. 

Insurance  has  found  its  best  and  fullest  development  in  Hartford,  whose  corporations 
are  famous  all  over  the  world  for  their  enterprise,  integ- 
rity and  permanent  merit.      So  vast  are  the  operations 
of  these  companies,  that  they  carry  risks  exceeding  $1,- 
000,000,000.      In  1794  Sanford  &  Wadsworth  insured 
William  Imlay's  house,  in  Hartford,  "  against  Fire,  and 
all  dangers  of  Fire,"   in  the  name  (assumed  and  un- 
official) of  the  Hartford  Fire  Insurance  Company.   This    I     j  J  )  £i i  jij !_•_•.  J 
was  the  first  fire-insurance  policy  known  in  the  United     ™    W 
States.   Daniel  Wadsworth  and  others,  in  1 8 1 o,  organized 
the   actual    Hartford  Fire    Insurance   Company,    with 
$150,000  capital  (one  tenth  paid  in),  and  no  expenses 
save  $300  a  year  to  the  secretary,  and  $30  for  fire-wood.       HARTFORD 


HARTFORD  FIRE-INSURANCE  CO. 


THE  STATE   OF  CONNECTICUT. 


CONNECTICUT      MUTUAL 
LIFE-INSURANCE  COMPANY. 


In  1835  the  great  fire  in  New  York  caused  a  loss  to  the  company 
of  $60,000  (an  immense  sum  in  those  days);  but  Eliphalet 
Terry,  its  president  from  1835  to  1849,  pledged  his  own  prop- 
erty to  the  Hartford  Bank,  and  hastened  in  a  sleigh  to  New 
York,  where  he  met  all  the  obligations  of  the  company,  and 
established  its  reputation  on  a  high  plane,  which  has  been  hon- 
orably maintained  to  the  present  time,  when  it  ranks  among 
the  foremost  insurance  companies  of  the  age.  Its  loss  of 
$1,968,000  in  the  great  Chicago  fire  was  bravely  met,  but  ne- 
cessitated the  paying  in  of  $500,000  new  capital.  The  capital 
now  is  $1,250,000,  with  assets  of  not  far  from  $6,000,000. 
The  company  erected  the  handsome  granite  building  which  is 
now  its  home,  in  1870,  during  the  presidency  of  George  L. 
Chase  (which  has  lasted  since  1867).  The  business  inaugurated 
by  the  Hartford  Fire-Insurance  Company  has  developed  in  the 
city  of  its  origin  more  energetically  than  anywhere  else.  Hart-  HARTFORD 
ford  leads  the  United  States  in  fire-insurance,  and  is  most 
widely  known  from  this  feature  of  its  activity.  There  are  six  local  companies,  with  assets 
of  above  $25,000,000,  and  an  aggregate  capital  of  $10,000,000;  and  they  pay  $5,000,000 
yearly  in  losses.  Besides  these  six,  there  are  only  nine  other  companies  in  America  with 
capitals  of  as  much  as  $1,000,000  each.  Among  all  these  gigantic  corporations,  none 
enjoys  a  greater  confidence  than  the  pioneer  company,  the  venerable  and  conservative,  yet 
always  enterprising,  "  Hartford  Fire." 

One  of  the  most  beautiful  buildings  in  Hartford— a  six-story  Renaissance  edifice  of 
granite,  erected  in  1870,  at  the  corner  of  Main  and  Pearl  Streets — belongs  to  the  Connec- 
ticut Mutual  Life-Insurance  Company,  which  was  chartered  in  1846,  and  became  the  foun- 
dation of  the  vast  life-insurance  business  which  distinguishes  Hartford  in  the  nation.  Starting 
with  a  guarantee  fund  of  only  $50,000,  it  won  an  immediate  and  brilliant  success,  and  has 
gone  forward  with  steadily  increasing  strength.  In  44  years,  up  to  1890,  the  company 
received  over  $220,000,000,  and  paid  out  to  policy-holders  $140,000,000,  with  $25,000,000 
for  expenses  and  taxes,  leaving  a  balance  of  $56,000,000  as  net  assets.  This  colossal  trust- 
fund  is  invested  safely  and  productively,  and  its  profits  wholly  inure  to  the  benefit  of  the 
insured,  the  surplus  being  returned  during  each  year  to  those  who  have  contributed  towards 
it,  so  that  each  policy-holder  gets  his  insurance  at  its  actual  cost.  It  stands  among  the  fore- 
most corporations  in  the  world,  not  only  of  life-insurance,  but  of  any  kind.  The  predom- 
inating aim  of  the  solid  Connecticut  Mutual  Life,  under  the  competent  presidency  of  Jacob 
L.  Greene,  is  to  furnish  the  greatest  amount  of  absolute  protection  to  the  families  of  the 
insured,  and  to  furnish  this  protection  at  the  lowest  possible  cost.  The  Connecticut  Mutual 
is  in  fact  a  pure  and  simple  life-insurance  company,  conducted  unswervingly  in  the  best 
interests  of  its  thousands  of  policy-holders. 

Another  interesting  department  of  Hartford  insurance  is  devoted  to  accidents.     About 

20  years  ago,  after  a  series  of  terrible  railway  ac- 
cidents, the  Railway  Passengers'  Assurance  Com- 
pany of  England  came  into  being.  James  G.  Bat- 
terson,  returning  from  Italy  to  Hartford,  studied 
into  this  scheme  while  in  England,  and  in  1863, 
organized,  at  Hartford,  The  Travelers  Insurance 
Company,  of  which  he  is  still  the  president,  its 
office  being  a  carpetless  upstairs  room  with  two 
chairs  and  a  legless  pine  desk,  and  the  present  sec- 
retary, Rodney  Dennis,  being  also  the  only  clerk 
HARTFORD  i  TRAVELERS  INSURANCE  COMPANY.  and  office-boy.  The  company  now  occupies  the 


HARTFORD  :      HARTFORD     STEAM- 
BOILER    INSURANCE   COMPANY. 


I32  KING^S  HANDBOOK    OF    THE    UNITED   STATES. 

fine  old  Ellsworth  mansion,  on  the  quiet  and  embowered  Prospect 
Street.  The  life-department  of  the  Travelers  is  virtually  an  in- 
dividual life-insurance  company,  and  one  of  the  foremost.  Its 
business  is  purely  on  the  stock  plan  —  a  low  cash  rate,  without 
dividends  to  policy-holders.  The  record  of  the  Travelers  stands 
absolutely  untarnished  from  its  foundation.  The  company  has 
assets  of  $13,000,000,  and  a  surplus  exceeding  $3,500,000.  It 
has  paid  nearly  $13,000,000  to  victims  of  accidents,  and  $5,000,- 
ooo  to  policy-holders  in  the  life-department.  The  Travelers 
Record  is  a  bright  little  monthly  paper  issued  by  the  company, 
bristling  with  facts  and  arguments  in  favor  of  casualty  insurance. 
This  is  the  largest  and  most  successful  accident  and  purely  stock 
life-insurance  company  in  the  world.  As  in  all  other  successful 
undertakings,  the  work  of  the  "Travelers"  has  found  many 
competitors ;  but  in  keeping  with  its  age  and  pioneership,  the  old 
Travelers  of  Hartford  remains  unapproached  in  its  supremacy  in  this  broad  field  of  effort, 

The  Hartford  Steam- Boiler  Inspection  &  Insurance  Company  was  evoked  in  the  old 
Polytechnic  Club,  where  Tyndall's  suggestions  and  Sir  William  Fairbairn's  experiments  as 
to  the  explosion  of  boilers  were  exhaustively  discussed.  The  company  was  chartered  and 
began  operations  in  1866,  and  during  a  quarter  of  a  century  has  successfully  labored  to 
create  a  demand  for  its  protective  agencies.  It  insures  more  than  30,000  boilers,  and  in 
case  of  explosion  or  rupture,  makes  good  all  loss  to  property,  with  indemnity  for  loss  of  life 
or  personal  injury,  to  an  amount  not  exceeding  the  sum  insured.  The  work  of  the  company 
is  mainly  directed  to  the  cure  of  defects  and  the  prevention  of  disaster,  and  it  has  a  hundred 
skilled  and  trained  inspectors,  who  at  stated  times  thoroughly  examine  the  boilers  under  its 
care.  Incipient  defects  are  hunted  out  and  remedied,  and  thus  many  lives  and  millions  of 
dollars'  worth  of  property  have  been  saved  yearly.  It  is  not  only  the  pioneer  company  in  its 
line,  being  many  years  older  than  any  other,  but  it  is  also  far  the  strongest  and  most  suc- 
cessful. Since  1867  it  has  been  under  the  presidency  of  J.  M.  Allen,  to  whom  is  due  the 
chief  credit  for  the  formulation  and  development  of.  boiler  inspection  and  boiler  insurance, 
and  its  general  introduction. 

Manufactures. — Connecticut,  as  it  now  is,  is  a  creation  of  this  century,  based  in  large 
degree  on  the  ingenuity  of  her  inventors  and  the  individual  ability  of  her  workmen.  The 
famous  Connecticut  Joint-Stock  Act  of  1837,  framed  by  Theodore  Hinsdale,  is  the  basis  of 
modern  manufacturing  corporations,  and  has  been  copied  by  nearly  every  State,  and  by  the 
English  Limited  Liability  Act  of.  1855.  The  principle  thus  originated  and  defined  in  Con- 
necticut has  been  of  vast  and  incalculable  importance  in  the  industrial  development  of  the 
modern  world. 

The  last  report  of  the  Connecticut  Bureau  of  Labor  Statistics  enumerates  90  large  estab- 
lishments, in  20  lines  of  industry,  employing  28,256  persons,  paying  wages  amounting  yearly 

to    $12,500,000,   and   manufacturing  upwards  of 

$45,000,000  \vorth  of  goods,  with  a  net  profit  of 
$3,800,000.  The  laws  limit  the  work  of  women 
and  children  to  60  hours  a  week,  and  compel  chil- 
dren under  13  years  of  age  to  attend  school.  The 
first  of  these  statutes  is  obeyed,  and  the  other 
suffers  from  evasion.  Since  1860  the  wages  of 
men  have  been  advanced  43  per  cent.  ;  and  those 
of  women  57  percent.  Industrial  warfare  breaks 
out  from  time  to  time,  ^resulting  from  the  convic- 
tion of  the  workmen  that  their  share  and  oppor- 
HARTFORD-COUNTY  COURT-HOUSE.  tunitics  are  being  diminished.  An  acute  English 


THE  STATE   OF  CONNECTICUT. 


133 


BRIDGEPORT  :    WHARF  SCENE. 


observer  thus  pictures  the  ingenious  local  me- 
chanics:  "The  work-shops  of  Massachusetts 
and  Rhode  Island,  and  especially  of  Connecti- 
cut, are  full  of  such  men.  Usually  tall,  thin, 
reflective  and  taciturn,  but  clever,  and  above  all 
things  free  —  the  equals,  although  mechanics,  of 
the  capitalists  upon  whose  ready  alliance  they 
can  count  —  they  are  an  element  of  incalculable 
value  to  American  industry." 

With  respect  to  certain  alleged  local  indus- 
tries, it  is  well  said,  in  Reclus's  A  Bird^s-Eye 
View  of  the  World:  "The  manufactures  of  wooden  nutmegs,  wooden  oats,  and  basswood 
hams  are  located  precisely  where  they  always  were  — in  the  imaginations  of  lumbering  wits." 
Among  the  products  of  local  industries  are  the  axes  of  Collinsville,  the  clocks  of  Bristol 
and  Thomaston,  the  powder  of  Hazardville,  the  knives  of  Northfield,  the  carpets  of  Thomp- 
sonville,  the  plush  and  silver  of  Seymour,  the  bank-note  paper  of  Manchester,  the  farming 
implements  of  Winsted  and  Higganum,  and  the  bells  of  Chatham. 

This  land  of  peace  has  furnished  armaments  to  contending  nations,  bringing  the  raw 
materials  from  distant  points,  and  by  the  ingenuity  of  her  mechanics  fashioning  them  into 
weapons  of  terribly  destructive  power.  The  Gatling  guns,  Colt's  fire  arms,  and  the  Hotch- 
kiss  multicharge  guns  come  from  Hartford ;  the  Winchester  rifles,  from  New  Haven ;  the 
Parker  guns?  fromMeriden ;  millions  of  cartridges  from  Bridgeport ;  and  pikes  and 

machetes       (^     from  Collinsville.     The  works  at  Hazardville  made  $1,250,000  worth  of 
powder  for  Great  Britain  during  the  Russian  War. 

Samuel  Colt,  the  son  of  a  Hartford  manufacturer,  while  yet  a 
lad,  beguiled  the  tedium  of  a  voyage  to  Calcutta  (in  1830)  by  in- 
venting and  making  a  model  of  a  revolver,  which  he  patented  in 
Europe  and  America  in  1835,  anc^  began  to  manufacture  in  1836. 
These  weapons  were  first  used  in  the  Seminole  War,  and  then  in 
the  Mexican  War.  In  1848,  Colt  built  a  factory  in  Hartford; 
E  and  in  1855  finished  the  great  dike  around  the  South  Meadow,  and 
the  magnificent  Colt's  Armory,  where,  during  the  Secession  War, 
HARTFORD  :  ALLYN  MEMORIAL.  as  many  as  I36,ooo  revolvers  and  50,000  muskets  were  turned  out 
in  a  single  year.  All  of  the  famous  Gatling  guns  have  been  made  by  Colt's  Company. 
Colt's  Patent  Fire- Arms-  Manufacturing  Company  was  incorporated  in  1856.  Its  pro- 
ducts have  been  carried  into  every  quarter  of  the  earth,  and  will  continue  to  be  in  demand 
until  the  coming  of  the  golden  age.  The  machinery  and  methods  employed  are  of  wonder- 
ful ingenuity  and  delicacy,  the  parts  of  the  weapons  being  interchangeable.  The  armory  is 
the  largest  private  concern  of  the  kind  in  the  world,  and  sometimes  employs  1,500  men. 
Besides  revolvers,  the  works  now  turn  out  great  numbers  of  magazine  rifles,  hammerless 
shot-guns,  Gatling  guns,  and  printing-presses.  In  1890  they  began  to  make  the  Driggs- 
Schroder  rapid-fire  guns,  one,  three  and 
six  pounders,  much  resembling  the  Hotch- 
kiss  guns,  but  simpler  in  mechanism. 

The  last  argument  in  a  frontier  dis- 
pute, or  in  a  trouble  between  the  white 
and  black  races  in  the  South,  or  between 
Apache  and  Arizonian,  is  usually  a  Win- 
chester rifle,  or,  briefly,  a  Winchester. 
The  same  conclusive  debaters  were  used 
in  vast  numbers  in  the  last  war  between 
Turkey  and  Russia,  shattering  the  still-  HARTFORD  :  COLT'S  PATENT  FIRE-ARMS  co. 


'34 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE   UNITED  STATES. 


NEW    HAVEN  :     WINCHESTER    REPEATING   ARMS  CO. 


ness  of  the  Balkans  and  the  Danube 
with  Connecticut  weapons,  held  by 
opposing  lines  of  battle.  Many 
European  and  Asiatic  nations  have 
armed  their  choice  troops  with 
these  rifles,  provided  with  ammuni- 
tion from  the  same  New-England 
source.  Thousands  of  sportsmen, 
also,  wander  through  the  forests  and 
over  the  prairies  with  these  fire-arms 
over  their  shoulders.  The  world- 
renowned  Winchester  Repeating  Arms  Company,  organized  in  1858,  and  incorporated  in 
1866,  employs  1,500  men,  and  several  thousand  complicated  and  ingenious  machines,  in  its 
great  modern  works,  covering  many  acres  with  brick  buildings,  in  a  lovely  suburb  of  New 
Haven.  The  famous  weapon  made  here  was  first  the  Jennings  gun  ;  then  the  Volcanic  re- 
peating rifle ;  then  the  Henry  rifle ;  and,  finally,  the  Winchester,  from  O.  F.  Winchester, 
its  maker.  It  had  become  such  a  combination  of  patents,  that  no  one  name  held  it,  and  it 
took  the  name  of  the  manufacturer. 

While  the  flint-lock  has  given  way  to  the  percussion-lock,  and  this  in  turn  to  the  breech- 
loader, the  science  of  ammunition  has  more  than 
kept  pace  with  these  changes;  and  the  trained 
officers  of  the  foremost  European  governments 
have  been  sent  to  the  works  of  the  Union  Metal- 
lic Cartridge  Company,  at  Bridgeport,  in  order  to 
transfer  its  incomparable  system  to  their  own 
arsenals.  Although  these  famous  works  make 
over  a  million  cartridges  daily,  they  never  over- 
take the  demand,  but  are  driven  to  their  fullest 
capacity  all  the  time.  It  is  the  largest  and  most 
famous  cartridge-factory  in  the  world,  and  produces  a  vast  variety  of  explosives,  from  small 
revolver  ammunition  up  to  Catling  cartridges,  with  brass  and  paper  shot  shells,  caps  and 
wads,  reloading  implements,  and  an  immense  number  of  military  cartridges.  The  machinery 
is  so  true  and  accurate  in  its  operations  that  it  almost  seems  to  be  possessed  of  reason,  and 
dispenses  with  a  vast  amount  of  manual  labor.  The  highest  revolver  scores  on  record  have 
been  made  with  cartridges  manufactured  by  this  company ;  and  all  the  famous  marksmen 
of  America  use  no  ammunition  except  that  of  their  make.  Among  the  many  interesting  and 
uncommon  industries  of  Bridgeport,  none  is  of  greater  interest  or  wider  fame  than  that  of 
the  Union  Metallic  Cartridge  Co.,  whose  products  are  found  in  all  lands. 

The  experience  and  study  of  more  than  a  third  of  a  century  have  wrought  wonders  in 
the  transformation  of  the  base  metals  into  forms  of  enduring  beauty  and  high  artistic  value. 
One  of  the  chief  factors  in  this  change  is  the  Bradley  &  Hubbard  Manufacturing  Company, 
which  was  founded  in  a  small  way  by  the  men 
whose  name  it  bears,  in  1854,  and  now  employs 
more  than  a  thousand  operatives,  including  many 
of  the  most  skillful  artisans  in  America.  Their 
immense  works  at  Meriden  are  equipped  through- 
out with  the  most  improved  machinery,  and  pro- 
duce rich  and  beautiful  art-metal  goods,  including 
bronzes,  card-tables,  easels  and  mirrors ;  also  fen- 
ders, andirons  and  fire-sets,  besides  gas  and  elec- 


BRIDGEPORT  :    UNION  METALLIC  CARTRIDGE  CO. 


vx<_i;>,    din-i      <_>113   ttliu     111C-SCL5),     UCblUCb   i^ilb  H11U   tJICC-       j    lift  J 

trie  fixtures  for  dwellings  or  public  buildings.    The 
"B.  &  H."    lamps,   simple  in  construction,   and 


MERIDEN  :    BRADLEY  &  HUBBARD  MFG.    CO. 


THE  STATE   OF  CONNECTICUT. 


135 


MERIDEN  :    MERIDEN  BRITANNIA  CO. 


safe,  and  yielding  a  powerful  white 
and  steady  light,  are  among  the  best 
in  the  world.  The  size  adapted  for 
piano,  banquet,  hanging  and  table 
lamps  is  of  75  candle-power,  while 
that  used  for  stores,  halls,  etc.,  is  of 
400  candle-power.  The  extension 
piano-lamps,  in  wrought  iron,  polished 
brass  or  silver,  with  their  "  B.  &  H." 
burners,  have  won  general  recognition 
in  American  homes  for  their  useful- 
ness and  beauty. 

Among  the  most  artistic  of  the  de- 
velopments of  Connecticut  genius  are 
the  varied  products  of  the  Meriden  Britannia  Company,  founded  in  1852,  and  now  includ- 
ing ten  acres  of  floor  space  in  their  great  factories,  wherein  1,200  skilled  artisans  are  en- 
gaged. Their  silver-plated  ware  is  honestly  made,  of  the  best  materials,  and  with  a  con- 
tinually advancing  standard  of  artistic  beauty,  to  keep  abreast  of  the  aesthetic  spirit  of  the 
age.  The  spoons  and  forks  bearing  their  trade-mark,  1 847 -Rogers  Bros.,  A  I,  are  found 
on  millions  of  American  tables.  In  the  great  maze  of  substantial  brick  buildings  at  Meri- 
den the  most  interesting  processes  may  be  followed,  from  the  entrance  of  the  raw  material 
until  its  completion  in  forms  of  unusual  and  permanent  beauty.  This  is  the  most  extensive 
establishment  of  the  kind  in  the  world  ;  and  has  prosperous  salesrooms  at  New  York, 
Chicago,  San  Francisco,  London,  and  Paris,  and  a  branch  factory  at  Hamilton,  Ont. 

Thread  is  a  small  enough  matter,  but  it  takes  upwards  of  30,000,000  miles  of  it  yearly  to 
keep  their  clothes  on  the  American  people.  A  large  part  of  this  is  furnished  by  the  Willi- 
mantic  Linen  Company,  the  chief  American  corporation  making  all  the  numbers  of  six-cord 
sewing-cotton  from  the  raw  material,  and  using  each  year  the  product  of  3,000  acres  of 
Sea-Island  cotton-land,  to  make  nearly  9,000,000  miles  of  thread.  Each  day  this  -com- 
pany makes  250,000  spools  or  28,000  miles  of  thread,  in  5,000  varieties  and  300  colors 
and  shades.  It  was  long  supposed  that  the  moist  and  equable  climate  of  Scotland  was 
essential  in  spinning  yarn  for  fine  thread ;  but  the  Willimantic  Company,  by  steam-heating 
and  atomized  moisture,  has  created  in  the  heart  of  variable  New  England  an  area  of  un- 
varying warmth  and  humidity,  superior  for  the  purpose  'even  to  the  climate  of  the  Cale- 
donian land.  There  are  several  large  and  orderly  stone  mills,  besides  the  famous  No.  4, 
built  in  1 88 1,  which  covers  more  ground  than  any  other  textile  mill  in  the  world.  The 
operatives,  mostly  American  women  and  girls,  number  1,500,  with  bright  and  comfortable 
homes,  a  public  library,  and  other  pleasant  things.  Intelligence  is  necessary  in  this  industry, 
and  all  the  operatives  must  be  able  to  read  and 
write.  The  long  and  fine-stapled  Sea-Island  cotton, 
the  most  expensive  in  the  world,  is  freed  from  seeds 
and  dirt  by  the  picker  machine ;  unsnarled  by  the 
carding-machine  ;  drawn  into  ribbon-like  "slivers;" 
re-combed,  roved,  spun  into  yarn,  twisted  into 
thread,  washed,  bleached,  dyed  (if  colored),  spooled, 
labeled,  and  boxed.  The  excellence  of  the  result  is 
attested  by  a  cabinet  of  medals  awarded  at  different 
expositions,  as  well  as  by  the  experience  of  the 
thousands  of  house-mothers  all  over  America. 

The  silk-mills  owned  by  Cheney  Brothers,  at  South  Manchester  and  in  Hartford, 
are  a  series  of  spacious  brick  buildings,  of  plain  but  solid  construction,  and  containing 
a  large  amount  of  delicate  and  ingenious  machinery.  The  product  is  about  $4,000,000 


WILLIMANTIC  :     WILLIMANTIC  LINEN  CO. 


i36 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


SOUTH    MANCHESTER  :    CHENEY    BROS.    SILK-MILLS. 


a  year,  in  plain  silks,  plushes,  pongees,  printe< 
silks,  crapes,  and  other  goods.  There  an 
over  2,000  operatives  in  these  mills.  In  Soutl 
Manchester  their  homes  are  mostly  ownec 
by  the  company,  and  are  of  simple  design 
but  afford  a  good  degree  of  comfort.  Tin 
village  is  not  crowded  around  the  mills.  Ever 
house  has  some  space  about  it,  the  result  beinj 
to  scatter  the  population  ;  while  the  homes  o 
the  mill-owners  stand  in  an  unfenced  park  o 
several  hundred  acres,  more  nearly  adjacent  to  the  mills  than  those  of  the  employees,  am 
made  attractive  by  wide  lawns,  trees,  and  shrubbery.  The  sanitary  conditions  are  good,  an< 
the  scenery  of  the  surrounding  country  diversified  and  agreeable.  A  public  hall  and  a  frei 
library  contribute  to  the  pleasures  of  life. 

The  great  mills  at  Rockville,  owned  and  operated  by  Belding  Brothers  &  Co.,  ar 
mainly  used  for  the  making  of  spool  silk,  and  employ  nearly  700  persons.  Although  thesi 
works  have  been  repeatedly  enlarged  and  provided  with  spacious  annexes,  they  are  entirel; 
inadequate  to  supply  the  demand,  and  the  Beldings'  have  established  complete  mills  als< 
at  Northampton  (Mass.),  Montreal  (P.  Q.),  Belding  (Mich.),  and  San  Francisco  (Cal.) 
Among  the  products  of  this  chain  of  silk-mills,  reaching 
across  the  continent,  are  embroidery  and  wash  art-silks  (ii 
360  colors),  machine-twist,  spool  and  embroidery  silks 
piece  goods,  and  very  fine  and  delicate  silk  hosiery  am 
underwear,  all  made  by  the  latest  and  most  ingenioui 
machinery.  The  main  Belding  offices  are  in.  New  York 
This  colossal  business,  with  its  five  completely  equippec 
factories,  3,000  operatives,  and  daily  consumption  of  ove: 
a  ton  of  raw  silk,  was  founded  in  1863  by  Messrs.  M.  M. 
H.  H.,  A.  N.,  and  D.  W.  Belding,  who  started  in  a  small  way,  retailing  silk  from  house  t< 
house,  in  the  country  towns  of  Connecticut  and  New  York. 

The  Ponemah  Cotton  Mills,  among  the  largest  in  the  world,  are  on  the  Shetucket  River,  nea: 
Norwich.  They  are  a  quarter  of  a  mile  long,  and  employ  1, 800  persons,  consuming  6,500 
bales  of  cotton  yearly,  and  making  20,000,000  yards  of  fine  cotton  cloth.  The  textiles  wovei 
here  are  recognized  in  the  trade  as  the  finest  cotton  or  white  dress  goods  ever  produced  ir 
this  country.  The  village  of  Taftville  has  grown  up  around  the  mills,  and  is  largely  ownec 
by  the  company,  which  furnishes  its  people  with  pleasant  homes  at  small  expense.  Th< 
mills  are  handsome  buildings,  architecturally,  and  have  immense  and  costly  equipments  o 
the  most  modern  machinery,  efficient 
for  the  great  and  exquisitely  fine  pro- 
duct which  is  demanded  of  them. 
The  work  of  developing  this  manu- 
facturing power  began  in  1867,  and 
the  mill  machinery  was  started  in 
1870.  The  capital  stock  of  the  com- 
pany  is  $2,000,000,  and  the  mills  '^^ 
have  130,000  spindles,  whose  fine  products 
find  a  ready  market  all  over  the  country. 

The  first  woolen  mill  in  America  was 
established  in  Hartford,  in  1 788,  and  made 
crow-colored  goods,  Hartford  gray  and 
Congress  brown.  At  the  inauguration 
ceremonies  of  April  30,  1789,  President.  TAFTVILLE  :  PONEMAH 


ROCKVILLE  :    BELDING  BROS.    &  CO. 


THE  STATE   OF   CONNECTICUT. 


137 


HARTFORD \ 
DWIGHT,  SKINNER  &  CO. 


Washington,  Vice-President  Adams,  and  the  Con- 
necticut Congressional  delegation,  wore  suits  of  Hart- 
ford cloth,  and  Washington  afterward  visited  the 
mill.  The  cloth  sold  at  from  $2.50  to  $5  a  yard  ; 
but  the  country  was  so  poor  after  the  Revolution  that 
the  pioneer  mill  run  for  only  six  years.  The  industry 
revived  again,  with  tremendous  energy  and  prosperity, 
and  25,000,000  pounds  of  wool  are  now  used  yearly 
factories  about  Hartford.  President  Harrison  and  Vice- 
President  Morton  were  inaugurated  in  1889,  in  suits  of  Hartford 
cloth.  The  industry  thus  firmly  established  has  called  up  the 
collateral  enterprise  of  buying  and  selling  wools  on  a  large  scale, 
by  such  well-known  houses  as  Dwight,  Skinner  &  Co.,  of  Hartford, 
founded  in  1856,  and  now  handling  immense  quantities  of  wool  yearly.  Much  of  this  is 
"  grease  wool,"  just  as  it  is  sheared,  and  is  bought  and  sold  in  this  condition.  The  concern 
has  a  large  scouring  plant  at  Windsor  Locks,  near  Hartford,  where  they  clean  and  scour 
4,000,000  pounds  of  wool  every  year.  This  purified  grade  is  sold  to  the  leading  manufac- 
turers. The  wools  used  by  Dwight,  Skinner  &  Co.  come  from  all  parts  of  the  United  States, 
and  from  Australia,  Russia  and  Africa. 

New  England  has  an  interesting  aspect  in  its  commercial  side,  in  the  number  of  strong 
copartnerships  and  corporations  which  have  passed  into  their  second  half  century  of  active 
business.  Among  these  is  the  historic  house  of  Beach  &  Co.,  which  was  founded  away 
back  in  August,  1833,  largely  by  the  efforts  of  George  Beach,  Jr.,  son  of  George  Beach, 
Cashier  and  President  of  the  Phoenix  Bank  for  50  years,  and  a 
prominent  member  of  Christ  Church.  For  nearly  60  years  Beach 
&  Co.  have  stood  at  the  head  of  the  dyestuff  trade  in  this  section, 
and  all  the  partners  still  bear  the  name  of  Beach.  Besides  their 
own  product/)f  dye-woods,  indigo  extracts  and  other  goods  of  a 
similar  character,  they  are  the  sole  American  agents  for  The  Brit- 
ish Alizarine  Company's  Alizarine,  the  Atlas  Works  Aniline  dyes, 
and  Mucklow's  Elton  Fold  dyeing  extracts.  No  small  part  of  the 
beauty  of  American  fabrics  has  come  from  the  violet,  malachite, 
berberine,  mandarin,  primrose,  opal,  blue,  crimson,  scarlet,  and 
purple  sent  out  from  this  establishment.  Beach  &  Co.  also  do  an 
extensive  importing  and  exporting  commission  business,  having 
reliable  correspondents  in  the  principal  cities  of  the  Old  World,  HARTFORD  :  BEACH  &  co. 
as  well  as  in  Australia  and  the  Spanish  islands.  For  many  years  they  have  received  the 
bulk  of  the  cochineal  consumed  on  this  continent,  their  celebrated  J.  R.  G.  being  well 
known  by  all  important  consumers. 

The  Wheeler  &  Wilson  Manufacturing  Company,  originally  organized  in  1853,  at  Water- 
town,  moved  to  Bridgeport,  its  present  location,  in  1856.  It  was  originated  for  the  pur- 
pose of  manufacturing  sewing-machines,  under  the  patents  granted  to  Allen  B.  Wilson  for 
inventions  which  were  practically  perfected  by  the  co-operation  of  Nathaniel  Wheeler  ;  and 

it  introduced  to  the  public  the  first  sewing- 
machines  adapted  to  general  use  in  families. 
The  factories  cover  ten  acres,  and  the  plant 
comprises  machinery  and  appliances  for  cast- 
ing and  metal-working,  the  manufacture  of 
needles,  and  cabinet-work.      There  are  1,200 
employees,  who  are  of  a  higher  grade  than 
^^^^——r.        usual  in  manufactories  of  a  similar  character. 
JRIDG"EPORT  :  ^HKi^wwoJulANUFA™    MI  co.        This  company  has  always  employed  the  best 


-     -  i   -.--. 


I38  KING'S  HANDBOOK   OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 

inventive  talent  and  the  most  skillful  workmen,  and  consequently  has  from  the  beginning 
stood  among  the  foremost  in  the  march  of  improvement  in  the  art  of  sewing  by  machinery. 
Its  products,  well  known  throughout  the  civilized  world,  consist  of  sewing-machines  for 
family  use  and  for*  every  grade  of  manufacturing  in  cloth  and  leather,  together  with  button- 
hole machines  and  a  number  of  specialities  pertaining  to  mechanical  stitching.  The  high 
esteem  in  which  their  labor-saving  machines  are  held  is  attested  by  the  fact  that  whenever 
the  mechanical  products  of  the  world  have  been  placed  on  competitive  exhibition,  the 
Wheeler  &  Wilson  sewing-machines  have  been  crowned  with  the  highest  honors.  The  suc- 
cesses at  the  World's  Expositions  at  Paris,  in  1867,  Vienna,  in  1873,  Philadelphia,  in  1876, 
and  Paris,  in  1878,  were  emphatically  confirmed  at  the  Exposition  Universelle,  Paris,  1889, 

at  which  the  only  grand  prize  for  sewing- 
machines  was  awarded  to  the  Wheeler  & 
Wilson,  and  the  Cross  of  the  Legion  of  Honor 
was  conferred  upon  Nathaniel  Wheeler,  the 
president  of  the  corporation. 

The  Scovill  Manufacturing  Company, 
another  pre-eminent  Connecticut  industry, 
is  one  of  the  chief  establishments  of  the 
bright  little  city  of  Waterbury,  on  the 
Naugatuck  River.  It  dates  its  origin  from  the  primitive  days  of  1802,  when  Abel  Porter 
&  Co.  began  the  manufacture  of  gilt  buttons,  in  one  end  of  a  grist  mill.  The  establishment 
was  incorporated  under  its  present  name  in  1830,  and  its  works  now  cover  a  dozen  acres, 
and  make  up  brass  and  copper  into  almost  every  form  desirable  for  convenience  or  ornament. 
Thence  come  buttons  by  the  million,  electric  wires,  student-lamps,  hinges,  match-safes,  and 
myriads  of  other  articles,  which  are  sold  in  all  parts  of  the  world.  The  company  also  has 
works  in  New  Haven  and  New  York,  and  agencies  in  New  York  and  Chicago.  The  power 
for  the  first  factory  of  this  company  was  furnished  by  a  single  horse.  The  manufacture  ol 
buttons  began  here  about  1790,  when  Samuel  Grilley  learned  the  art  from  an  Englishman 
at  Boston,  and  taught  his  brothers,  Henry  and  Silas,  at  Waterbury.  The  buttons  were  ol 
pewter,  and  when  Silas  Grilley  and  the  Porters  united,  in  1802,  the  first  brass  buttons  were 
made.  Now  the  Scovill  works  are  the  crown  of  American  brass  and  German-silver  manu- 
facturers, with  a  product  of  immense  variety  and  value. 

Another  remarkable  development  of  mechanical  ingenuity  appears  in  the  business  of  the 


WATERBURY 


Ansonia  Brass  and  Copper 
industry  was  founded  in 
Phelps,     Dodge    &    Co. 
and  has  had  a  career  of 
it  now  occupies  five  great 
acres,  and  continually 
hands,  with 
of   nearly 
year.      The 
stands    pre- 
its    product 
copper,  and 
toms,    cop  - 

electrical  purposes,  and  in- 
over  a  hundred  patents  for 
and  for  various  forms  of 
own  Cowles's  patents  for 
eral  other  remarkable  spe- 
varieties  of  rods,  tubes,  and 


Company,  at   Ansonia.     This 
1847,  by  Anson  G.  Phelps  oi 
(whence  the  name   Ansonia), 
uninterrupted  prosperity,  until 
factories,    covering    about    I  £ 
employing  from  1 , 200  to  1 , 300 
a  pay-roll 
$900,000  a 
company 
eminent    in 
of    sheet- 
copper  hot- 
per  wire  for 
and  controls 


chandeliers, 


ANSONIA  !    ANSOI* 


\ND  COPPER  CO. 


got  copper, 
lamps     and 

metal-working.  They  also 
insulating  wire,  and  sev- 
cialties ;  and  produce  great 
wire,  besides  lamps  and 


THE  STATE   OF  CONNECTICUT. 


139 


chandeliers  of  every  kind  for  kerosene  oil.  This  com- 
pany also  manufactured  clocks  until  1878,  when  that 
part  of  their  business  was  reorganized  under  the  name 
of  the  Ansonia  Clock  Company,  with  factories  in  Brook- 
lyn, New  York,  where  they  employ  about  1,200  hands. 

The  art  of  pressing,  stamping  or  forging  hot  metal, 
in  dies  of  various  forms,  or  drop-forging,  gives  results 
impossible  to  attain  by  hand-forging,  and  produces  the 
most  complicated  and  the  simplest  forms  of  forged 
work  with  admirable  success.  The  pioneers  in  this 
craft  were  the  Billings  &  Spencer  Co.,  founded  in  HARTFORD:  BILLINGS  &  SPENCER  co. 

1869  by  C.  E.  Billings,  and  even  to  this  day  making  a  much  greater  number  and  variety 
of  drop-forged  goods  than  any  other  American  house.  As  representative  of  this  line,  the 
establishment  received  a  diploma  of  merit  at  the  International  Exhibition  of  1876  at  Phila- 
delphia. The  products  include  120  varieties  of  steel  wrenches,  and  forgings  for  shuttles, 
guns,  vises,  chisels,  thumb-screws,  clamps,  gauges,  pliers,  and  a  great  variety  of  machinists' 
tools  and  other  articles  in  iron,  steel,  and  bronze.  Another  interesting  specialty  is  drop- 
forgings  from  pure  copper,  for  electrical  machinery.  The  works  of  the  Billings  &  Spencer 
Co.  are  at  Hartford,  and  employ  125  men.  Their  products  have  reflected  honor  on  Ameri- 
can ingenuity  at  the  great  expositions  of  Vienna,  Chili,  Boston,  and  New  York,  where  they 
have  received  medals  and  diplomas. 

New  Haven  is  celebrated  all  over  the  world  for  its  carriages,  embracing  all  lines 
of  vehicles,  from  the  light  side-bar  wagon,  carrying  one  person,  to  the  heavy  and  stylish 
brougham.  This  industry  was  one  of  the  earliest  to  be  founded  in  the  city,  and  has  met 
with  a  great  development.  New  Haven  also  has  a  factory  in  which  2,000  persons  are  kept 
busy  making  rubber  shoes  ;  and  an  equal  number  are  engaged  in  making  corsets.  The 
New- Haven  Clock  Co.  were  pioneers  in  their  business,  and  have  branch  houses  in  other 
countries.  Another  prominent  industry  of  the  City  of  Elms  is  the  manufacture  of  builders' 
hardware  and  coffin  trimmings.  'In  addition,  there  are  engine,  boiler  and  machine  shops 
and  foundries,  and  large  piano  and  organ  factories. 

The  steady  and  profitable  development  of  manufacturing  has  been  attended  by  a  sus- 
pension of  activity  in  the  agricultural  regions,  which  barely  hold  their  own.  Connecticut 
has  thirty  cities  and  towns  having  a  population  above  4,000  ;  and  these  include  62  per  cent, 
of  the  people  of  the  State.  The  urban  population  continues  to  increase  much  more  rapidly 
than  that  of  the  open  country  ;  and  many  of  the  pleasant  farms  of  the  hill-country  are 
being  allowed  to  enter  upon  a  rest  which  may  endure  for  centuries,  or  until  new  and  unfore- 
seen economic  conditions  restore  the  people  to  the  love  of  Nature. 

In  former  days  the  transmission  of  mechanical  power  was  effected  by  costly  and  cum- 
bersome systems  of  gearing,  until  the  invention  of  leather  belting  afforded  a  better  way. 
Pliny  Jewell  came  down  from  New  Hampshire  to  Hartford  in  1845,  and  in  1848  began  to 
make  leather  belts,  being  the  third  person  in  America  to  enter  this  business.  P.  Jewell  & 
Sons  devoted  much  time  and  energy,  and  persistent  personal  effort  to  educating  American 
manufacturers  to  the  use  of  belting,  and  their  plant 
increased  until  it  now  represents  an  investment  of 
$1,000,000,  and  includes  the*  spacious  Hartford  fac- 
tory, and  large  tanneries  at  Rome  (Georgia),  and  Jellico 
(Tennessee),  in  the  heart  of  the  best  oak-bark  country. 
The  green  hides  are  rigidly  inspected,  and  very  care- 
fully made  up,  by  the  latest  improved  machinery, 
into  all  sizes  and  shapes  of  belts.  In  1883  the  Jewell 
Belting  Co.  was  organized ;  and  the  business  of  the 
corporation  now  reaches  over  a  vast  area. 


HARTFORD  I     JEWELL  BELTING  CO. 


140 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 


BRIDGEPORT  :    EATON,  COLE  &  BURNHAM  CO. 

of  many  of  our  great  national  industries, 


The  Eaton,  Cole  &  Burnham  Company,  whose 
works  are  located  at  Bridgeport,  is  one  of  the 
foremost  establishments  in  the  world  for  the 
manufacture  of  all  manner  of  brass  and  iron  fit- 
tings for  use  in  conducting  steam,  water,  gas, 
and  oil.  These  products  include  an  immense 
variety  of  pipes,  valves,  cocks,  radiators,  cutting 
and  threading  tools,  and  other  appurtenances, 
and  are  sold  all  over  the  American  continent,  as 
well  as  in  Europe,  being  indispensable  to  the 
comfort  of  the  people,  and  to  the  development 
This  commanding  business  dates  from  the  year 
1870,  and  was  formed  by  the  consolidation  of  the  interests  of  the  gentlemen  whose  names 
the  company  bears.  It  employs  800  men,  with  a  yearly  pay-roll  exceeding  $500,000,  and 
uses  vast  quantities  of  iron,  copper,  tin,  spelter  and  lead,  in  the  production  of  the  goods  men- 
tioned. The  patents  owned  by  the  corporation  include  a  great  number  of  devices  for  rap- 
idly and  economically  manufacturing  their  goods,  as  well  as  articles  made  by  them  for  sale. 
Probably,  no  line  of  industry  excels  the  one  in  which  this  company  is  engaged  in  point  of 
the  usefulness  of  the  goods  manufactured,  to  the  people  and  to  the  world  at  large. 

On  the  harbor-side  at  Bridgeport,  with  a  fine  deepwater  channel  along  its  front,  and 
railways  traversing  its  grounds,  is  the  compact  and  serviceable  plant,  with  two  acres  of 

flooring,  of  the  Springfield  Emery  Wheel  Manufac-  — . , 

turing  Company,  the  designers  and  maker  of  the    | 
largest  variety  of  grinding  machines.     This  busi-    II  ; 

ness  was  founded  at  Springfield,  in  1 88 1,  by  the 
four  Hyde  brothers.  In  1890,  the  new  plant  at 
Bridgeport  was  built,  and  thoroughly  equipped  for 
the  manufacture  of  wheels  from  emery,  and  for  a 
limitless  variety  of  grinding  machines  in  many  dif- 
ferent sizes  and  styles,  for  grinding  and  sharpen- 
ing all  sorts  of  implements  and  metal  surfaces,  from 
the  delicate  tools  used  in  jewelers'  shops  up  to 
heavy  plowshares  and  car-wheels.  These  service-  BRIDGEPORT  :  SPRINGFIELD  EMERY  WHEEL  co. 
able  and  indispensable  machines  are  supplied  with  wheels  made  entirely  of  emery  and  cor- 
undum, which  have  a  much  greater  grinding  power  and  endurance  than  natural  grindstones. 
Springfield  wheels  are  in  use  by  the  United-States  Government,  the  Edison  and  Westing- 
house  companies,  and  thousands  of  manufacturers.  The  Springfield  Emery  Wheel  Co.  also 
makes  daily  150  reams  of  sapphire  garnet  paper,  in  several  grades.  This  is  a  sandpaper 
whose  coating  is  pulverized  garnet,  large  mines  of  which  are  owned  by  the  company. 

The  Pope  Manufacturing  Company  stands  preeminent  in  the  world,  in  the  manufacture 

and  sale  of  bicycles.  It  founded  the  business  in 
1877,  in  Boston,  by  importing  English  machines, 
at  a  time  when  there  was  not  a  score  of  wheel- 
men in  the  Union  (Col.  Albert  A.  Pope,  president 
of  the  company,  being  one).  In  1878  the  company 
began  the  manufacture  of  bicycles  at  Hartford, 
and  their  works  now  cover  acres  of  floorage,  where 
hundreds  of  the  best  New-England  mechanics, 
aided  by  the  finest  modern  machinery,  make  a 
yearly  increasing  number  of  high-grade  Columbia 
bicycles,  tricycles  and  "safeties"  for  men  and 
women.  This  famous  corporation  has  a  large 


HARTFORD  :   PC 


THE  STATE  OF  CONNECTICUT. 


141 


office-building  at  Boston,  branch-stores  at  New  York  and  Chicago,  and  600  agencies.  By 
its  early  acquisition  of  patents,  its  strict  adherence  to  one  list  of  prices  and  discounts,  its 
protection  of  dealers,  and  the  repeated  triumphs  of  its  machines  on  the  race-track  and  tour- 
ing routes,  this  company  has  built  up  the  greatest  business  of  the  kind  ever  seen  in  the 
world,  and  supplied  the  American  people  and  others  with  many  thousands  of  "silent  steeds." 

Connecticut  not  only  manufactures  almost 
everything  needed  in  modern  civilization,  but  she 
also  provides  the  ingenious  machinery  for  other 
people  to  manufacture  with.  One  of  the  foremost 
institutions  in  this  department  is  the  Pratt  &  Whit- 
ney Company,  whose  works  at  Hartford  employ 
825  men  (with  an  annual  pay-roll  of  $500,000), 
making  standard  sizes  and  forms  in  gauges  and 
reamers,  taps  and  dies,  automatic  grain-weighers, 
forging  machinery,  machinists'  tools  for  power  HARTFORD  :  PRATT  &  WHITNEY  co. 

and  hand  use,  and  a  great  number  of  other  articles,  its  mere  catalogue  occupying  hundreds 
of  pages.  From  this  establishment  comes  the  entire  working-plant  of  sewing-machine  and 
gun  factories.  It  supplied  the  German  imperial  gun-works  at  Spandau,  Erfurt,  and  Danzig 
with  admirable  and  costly  plants;  and  has  sent  to  Europe  over  $3,000,000  worth  of  tools 
and  machinery.  The  company  also  makes  for  the  United-States  Government  the  Hotchkiss 
rapid-fire  guns ;  and  owns  and  manufactures  the  famous  Gard- 
ner machine  gun.  With  the  co-operation  of  eminent  scientific 
persons,  and  the  United-States  Coast  Survey,  this  corporation 
after  delicate  and  exhaustive  comparisons  constructed  a  ma- 
chine for  absolutely  exact  and  uniform  measurements,  down  to 
1-50,000  of  an  inch.  Up  to  that  time  American  yards  and  feet 
were  of  an  endless  variety  of  lengths. 

The  stamped  envelopes  which  bear 
American  letters  all  over  the  world  are  all 
made  in  the  fair  Connecticut  Valley,  by 
the  Plimpton  Manufacturing  Company,  of 
Hartford,  and  the  Morgan  Envelope  Com- 
pany, of  Springfield,  in  association.  The 
first-named,  founded  by  Linus  B.  Plimp- 
ton, in  1865,  and  incorporated  in  1873,  is 
now  the  largest  producer  of  envelopes  in 
the  world,  employing  500  operatives,  and 
with  a  yearly  output  valued  at  $i,  500,000. 
Nearly  a  billion  envelopes  are  made  in  the  Plimpton  factories  every  year,  600, 000,000  of  them 
being  for  the  Government.  The  marvellous  mechanism  and  labor-saving  contrivances  in- 
vented and  used  in  these  processes  turn  out  precise  and  perfect  work  at  a  great  saving  from 
handicraft,  and  are  so  carefully  patented  by  the 
company  that  no  one  else  can  use  them,  or 
make  envelopes  so  good  and  so  cheaply. 

At  Middletown  is  the  famous  establish- 
ment of  W.  &  B.  Douglass,  the  oldest  and  most 
extensive  manufacturers  in  the  world  of  pumps 
and  other  hydraulic  machines.  No  other  house 
approaches  its  line  of  cistern  and  house  force 
pumps,  hydraulic  rams,  yard  hydrants  and  hy- 
draulic machinery.  These  goods  have  received 
the  highest  awards  —  gold  and  silver  medals —  MIDDLETOWN  ;  w.  &  B,  DOUGLASS. 


HARTFORD  I    PLIMPTON  MANUFACTURING  CO. 


142 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


at  the  World's  Expositions  in  Europe,  America,  and  Australia.  The  Douglass  cistern 
and  house  pumps  are  generally  used  in  every  country  of  the  globe.  The  plant  covers  four 
acres,  and  the  group  of  substantial  brick  buildings  gives  employment  to  250  men.  The  busi- 
ness was  founded  in  1832  by  William  and  Benjamin  Douglass,  and  has  always  remained  in 
the  family,  although  it  is  nominally  a  stock  company,  with  a  capital  of  $600,000,  and  a  sur- 
plus which  gives  to  the  establishment  a  value  exceeding  $1,000,000.  Here  are  made  1,500 
different  styles  of  pumps  and  hydraulic  rams,  covering  every  use  for  houses,  factories  or  farms. 
The  best  representative  of  the  enterprise,  ingenuity,  and  perseverance  of  Connecticut  was 
Phineas  T.  Barnum,  whose  museum,  menagerie,  hippodromes,  and  other  public  entertain- 
ments, have  been  the  delight  of  two  generations,  in  both  the  New  World  and  the  Old 
World.  Other  countries  may  question  whether  any  of  our  generals,  discoverers,  poets,  or 
historians  have  attained  the  first  rank  among  the  great  men  of  the  world,  but  all  admit  that 
America  has  produced  the  most  illustrious  showman  of  all  time.  The  key-note  of  his  career 
was  sounded  in  his  own  cheery  words  :  "The  noblest  art  is  that  of  making  others  happy," 
and  for  half  a  century  he  practiced  this  precept,  to  the  benefit  of  millions  of  people. 
Born  at  Bethel,  Conn,  (in  the  year  1810),  the  son  of  a  farmer  and  tavern-keeper,  he  showed 
in  childhood  a  great  aversion  to  agricultural  labor,  and  a  great  liking  and  a  special  aptitude 
for  business.  At  the  age  of  15,  fatherless  and  poor,  he  was  thrown  upon  his  own  resources 
and  was  successively  clerk  in  a  store,  editor  of  a  paper,  village  storekeeper,  and  exhibitor 
of  Joice  Heth,  the  alleged  nurse  of  Washington.  This  last  venture  decided  his  vocation, 
and  he  became  the  head  of  a  small  travelling  company  of  performers,  and  a  showman.  In 
1840  he  bought  the  American  Museum,  in  New  York,  and  since  that  time  the  magnitude  of 
his  undertakings  and  successes  was  amazing,  and  made  him  the  pride  of  the  American 
people,  and  won  for  him  the  personal  favor  of  the  sovereigns  of  Great  Britain  and  France, 
and  countless  other  dignitaries.  His  best  known  achievements  include  the  discovery, 
naming  and  exhibiting  of  General  Tom  Thumb  ;  the  bringing  of  Jenny  Lind  to  America  ; 
the  purchase  of  Jumbo  ;  the  organizing  in  (1874)  of  "Barnum's  Greatest  Show  on  Earth  ;  " 
and  the  transporting  of  the  same  to  and  from  London,  in  the  winter  of  1889-90.  "The 

Greatest  Show 
on  Earth  "  trav- 
els all  over  the 
United  States 
and  Canada,  in 
74  freight  cars, 
and  a  Pullman 
train,  moving 
by  night,  and 
giving  perform- 
ances, in  tents  seating  25,000  people,  at  all  cities  of  more  than  40,000  inhabitants.  The 
winter-quarters,  at  Bridgeport,  include  elephant  houses,  where  40  elephants  are  luxuriously 
housed  and  trained  ;  a  lion  and  tiger  house,  kept  at  the  required  high  temperature  ;  quarters 
for  camels  and  caged  animals  ;  a  sea-lion  and  hippopotamus  house,  containing  a  great 
pond,  artificially  heated  ;  chariot  and  train  houses ;  blacksmith,  paint,  and  carpenter  shops ; 
and  a  practice-ring  for  riders  and  acrobats.  Upwards  of  82,000,000  tickets  have  been  sold 
for  the  Barnum  exhibitions.  This  versatile  Connecticut  genius  won  other  laurels  than 
those  of  a  showman.  Of  the  books  he  wrote,  more  than  a  million  copies  have  been  sold. 
He  lectured  before  the  largest  and  best  audiences  in  America  and  Europe.  He  laid  out 
and  built  up  the  eastern  half  of  Bridgeport.  As  a  member  of  the  Connecticut  Legislature 
for  several  terms,  and  as  Mayor  of  Bridgeport,  he  made  an  enviable  official  record.  Bridge- 
port was  Mr.  Barnum's  home  for  45  years,  and  its  parks,  cemeteries,  boulevards,  and  public 
institutions,  founded  by  his  generosity,  and  advanced  by  his  wise  supervision,  bear  witness 
to  his  practical  philanthropy. 


3RIDGEPORT  :     WINTER-QUARTERS    OF    BARNU 


CAPITOL-  DOVER. 


HISTORY. 


The  Delaware  aborigines 

were   of  the  Leni-Lenape 

stock,    and    included     the 

Minquas,  on  the  Iron  Hills, 

and  the  Nanticokes,  in  the 

lowlands  of  the  south.    The 

former  migrated  nearly  two 

centuries  ago  ;  the  latter  in 

1748.      Hendrick    Hudson 

discovered  Delaware  Bay,  in  1609,  while  hunting  for  the 
short  cut  to  China,  but  put  to  sea  when  he  reached  shoal 
water  ;  and  a  year  later  Capt.  Argall  sailed  up  the  lone- 
ly expanse.  The  first  white  settlers  were  De  Vries  and 
32  Hollanders,  who  founded  a'  colony  near  the  site  of 
Lewes,  in  1631.  These  pioneers  all  suffered  massacre  by 
the  Indians.  In  1638  Peter  Minuit  was  sent  out  by  Queen 
Christina  to  found  here  "a  country  in  which  every  man 
should  be  free  to  worship  God  as  he  chose."  He  built 
Fort  Christina,  on  the  site  of  Wilmington,  and  garrisoned 
it  with  sturdy  Swedes  and  Finns.  The  country  received 
the  name  of  Nya  Sveriga  (New  Sweden)  ;  and  for  many 
years  the  peninsula  remained  under  Swedish  rule.  In 
1651  Gov.  Stuyvesant  came  around  from  New  Amster- 
dam, and  erected  Fort  Casimir,  on  the  site  of  New  Castle, 
to  hold  these  Baltic  men  in  check  ;  but  on  Trinity  Sunday 
of  1654  they  swarmed  into  the  new  fortress,  and  raised 
over  it  the  banner  of  Sweden.  Finally,  however,  the 
Dutch  conquered  and  annexed  the  province,  and  all  the 
Swedes  who  refused  to  accept  their  rule  were  shipped  back 
to  Europe.  Together -with  New  Amsterdam,  Delaware 
passed,  in  1664,  from  Dutch  rule  to  that  of  the  Duke  of 
York,  by  whom,  in  1682,  it  was  granted  to  William  Penn, 
and  its  delegates  entered  the  Pennsylvania  Legislature,  the 
"  Three  Counties  on  Delaware  "  remaining  under  the  Penn 

proprietary  government  until  1775,  although  after  1702  they  had  a  distinct  assembly.  Del- 
aware entered  earnestly  into  the  Revolution,  and  sent  into  the  field  a  splendid  Continental 
regiment,  besides  many  militiamen  under  Gen.  Rodney.  Lord  Beresford,  in  the  Roebuck, 


STATISTICS. 

Settled  at     ....      Wilmington. 

Settled  in 1638 

Founded  by Swedes. 

One  of  the  original  13  States. 
Population,  in  1860,      .    .    .   112,216 

In  1870, 125,015 

In  1880, 146,608 

White, 120,160 

Colored 26,448 

American  born,      .     .     .   137,140 
Foreign-born,     ....       9,468 

Males, 74,io8 

Females,    ......     72,500 

In  1890  (U.  S.  census),   .     .  168,493 
Population  to  the  square  mile,     74.8 
Voting  Population  (1880),       .    38,298 
Vote  for  Harrison  (1888),    .     12,973 
Vote  for  Cleveland  (1888),       16,414 
Net  State  Debt  (1890),       .     $811,762 
Area  (square  miles),      .     .     .      2,050 
U.  S.  Representatives  (1893)  I 

Militia  (Disciplined),     ...          604 

Counties, 3 

Cities, I 

Hundreds, 28 

Post-offices, 160 

Railroads  (miles),  ....  323 
Manufactures  (yearly),  $50,000,000 
Farm  Land  (in  acres),  .  .  1,100,000 
Farm  Land  Values,  .  $37,000,000 
Assessed  Valuation  of 

Property  (1890),      .    .     $74,000,000 
Average  School  Attendance,     22,000 

Newspapers, 39 

Latitude,       .     .     .    38°  28'  to  39°  50' 

Longitude 75°  to  75°  46' 

Temperature, i°  to  98° 

Mean  Temperature  (Lewes),          54° 

TEN   CHIEF   PLACES  AND  THEIR  POP- 
ULATIONS.    (Census  of  1890.) 
Wilmington, 61,431 


New  Castle, 

Dover,      .     .  . 

Smyrna,    .     .  . 

Laurel,     .     .  . 

Seaford,  .     .  . 
Middletown, 

Georgetown,  . 
South  Milford, 

Milford,   .     .  . 


4,010 
3,061 
2,455 
2,388 
1,462 
1,454 
1,353 
1 1 339 
1,226 


144 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE    UNITED   STATES. 


CAPE  HENLOPEN  AND  REHOBOTH  BEACH. 


bombarded  Lewes ;  and  an  odd 
little  battery  was  set  up  afterwards 
before  the  town,  which  still  faces 
the  sea.  Washington's  army  lay 
about  Wilmington  before  the  bat- 
tle of  Brandywine,  but  the  British 
took  Newark  and  Wilmington. 
Delaware  was  one  of  the  original 
13  States,  and  the  first  to  ratify 
the  constitution  which  formed  the 
American  Union.  Therefore,  upon 
occasions  when  the  States  are  represented  as  States,  she  leads  the  right  of  the  line.  After 
the  Secession  movement  began,  the  commissioners  of  Mississippi  addressed  the  Delaware 
Legislature,  urging  the  commonwealth  to  join  the  Southern  States.  This  she  refused  to 
do,  and  sent  into  the  National  army  nine  regiments  of  infantry,  a  battalion  of  cavalry,  and 
a  light  battery,  whose  services  were  marked  by  great  valor. 

The  Name  of  the  State  commemorates  Lord  De  la  Warr.  Sir  Roger  La  Warr  cap- 
tured the  King  of  France,  at  the  battle  of  Poitiers,  in  1356  ;  and  two  centuries  later  one 
of  his  descendants  fought  so  bravely  at  the  siege  of  St.  Quintin  that  he  was  created  Lord 
De  la  \Varr.  His  son  married  Queen  Anne  Boleyn's  grand-niece,  and  among  their  chil- 
dren was  the  third  Lord  De  la  Warr,  the  first  Governor  of  Virginia.  Capt.  Argall,  a 
Virginian  navigator,  named  Delaware  Bay  in  honor  of  his  chief,  and  this  title  gradually 
passed  to  the  peninsula.  It  is  sometimes  entitled  THE  DIAMOND  STATE,  from  its  small 
size  and  great  value.  Delawareans  are  called  The  Blue  Heris  Chickens,  Capt.  Caldwell, 
'  of  her  Continental  Line,  and  a  famous  cock-fighter,  maintained  that  no  cock  was  game 
unless  it  came  from  a  blue  hen.  He  was  also  an  admirable  disciplinarian,  and  made  his 
command  one  of  the  most  efficient  in  Washington's  army.  They  won  the  title  of  CaldwelFs 
Game-cocks,  and  subsequently  of  The  Blue  Hen's  Chickens ;  and  so  the  army  men  got  in 
the  way  of  calling  every  Delawarean  a  Blue  Hen's  Chicken. 

The  Arms  of  Delaware  bear  a  sheaf  of  wheat  and  an  ear  of  corn,  proper,  in  the  upper 
part,  and  an  ox,  proper,  in  the  lower.  The  crest  is  a  ship  under  full  sail,  displaying  the 
American  flag.  The  supporters  are  a  rifleman  and  a  husbandman.  The  motto  of  the  State 
is  LIBERTY  AND  INDEPENDENCE. 

The  Governors  have  been  :  Swedish :  Peter  Minuit,  1638-41  ;  Peter  Hollendare, 
1641-2;  John  Printz,  1642-53;  John  Papegoya,  1653-4;  John  Rising,  1654-5;  Dutch: 
Peter  Stuyvesant.  English  Colonial:  Wm.  Penn,  1700-21;  Sir  Wm.  Keith,  1721-6;  Pat- 
rick Gordon,  1726-38;  George  Thomas,  1738-45;  James  Hamilton,  1745-54,  and 
1 760-5;  R.  H.  Morris,  1754-60;  John  Penn,  1765-8,  and  1773-7;  Richard  Penn, 
1768-73;  John  McKinley,  1777-8;  Caesar  Rodney,  1778-82;  John  Dickinson,  1782-3; 
John  Cook,  1783;  Nicholas  Van  Dyke,  1783-6;  Thomas  Collins,  1786-9.  State: 
Joshua  Clayton,  1789-96;  Gunning  Bedford,  1796-7;  Daniel  Rogers,  1797-8 ;  Richard 
Bassett,  1798-1801 ;  James  Sykes  (acting), 
1801-2;  David  Hall,  1802-5;  Nathaniel 
Mitchell,  1805-8;  George  Truitt,  1808-11; 
Joseph  Hazlett,  1811-14,  and  1823;  Daniel 
Rodney,  1814-17;  John  Clark,  1817-20; 
Jacob  Stout  (acting),  1820-1  ;  John  Collins, 
1821-2;  Caleb  Rodney  (acting),  1822-3; 
C.  Thomas  (acting),  1823-4;  Samuel  Paynter, 
1824-7;  Charles  Polk,  1827-30;  David  Haz- 
zard,  1830-3';  Caleb  P.  Bennett,  1833-7;  C. 
P.  Comegys,  1837-40 ;  William  B.  Cooper,  BRANDYWINE  RIVER. 


THE  STATE   OF  DELAWARE. 


145 


WILMINGTON  :    MONUMENT    PLACE. 


1840-4;  Thomas  Stockton,  1844-6;  Joseph  Maul  (acting),  1846;  William  Temple,  1846; 
William  Thorp,  1846-51;  William  H.  Ross,  1851-5;  Peter  F.  Causey,  1855-9;  William 
Burton,  1859-63;  William  Cannon,  1863-5;  Gove  Saulsbury,  1865-71;  James  Ponder, 
1871-5;  John  P.  Cochran,  1875-9;  John  W.  Hall,  1879-83;  Charles  C.  Stockley,  1883-7; 
Benjamin  T.  Biggs,  1887-91  ;  and  Robert  J.  Reynolds,  1891-5. 

Descriptive. — Delaware  is  the  smallest  State  in  the  Union,  except  Rhode  Island,  being 
but  93  miles  in  length,  with  a  breadth  varying  from  nine  to  38  miles.  The  northern 
part  is  a  fertile  hill-country,  with  rapid  streams  flowing  in  deep  valleys,  oak  and  chestnut 
forests,  granite  and  limestone  ledges,  and  profitable  deposits 
of  porcelain-clay  and  iron-ore.  It  is  a  continuation  of  the 
lovely  Chester  County  of  Pennsylvania,  with  its  grassy  up- 
lands. South  of  the  Christiana  the  State  is  nearly 
level,  having  a  plateau,  or  sand  ridge,  70  feet  high  and 
several  miles  wide,  following  the  western  side.  In 
Kent,  eastward  of  the  forest,  lie  180,000  acres  of  rich 
alluvial  "neck"  land,  with  60,000  acres  of  tidal 
marshes,  some  of  which  are  dyked  and  reclaimed. 
Much  of  the  south  is  a  light  sandy  soil,  bordered  by 
lagoons,  and  melting  off  into  the  Cypress  Swamp,  cov- 
ering 50,000  acres,  filled  with  game,  and  pierced  by 
salty  inlets  abounding  in  the  finest  fish  and  oysters.  The  marshy  and  clayey  bay-shore  is 
succeeded  along  the  Atlantic  by  long  and  narrow  sandy  ridges,  enclosing  shallow  lagoons, 
like  Rehoboth  Bay  and  Indian-River  Bay,  from  three  to  five  feet  deep.  The  favorite  sea- 
side resorts  are  Rehoboth  Beach,  between  the  pine  woods  and  the  surf ;  Woodland,  Bowers' 
and  Collins  Beaches,  farther  up  the  bay ;  and  two  or  three  other  locally  famous  summer 
resting-places,  with  large  hotels  and  cottages. 

Delaware  Bay  is  13  miles  wide  between  Cape  Henlopen  and  Cape  May;  25  miles 
in  the  middle ;  and  three  miles  wide  at  Delaware  City.  The  channel  is  tortuous, 
but  has  from  25  to  75  feet  -of  water,  and  is  the  avenue  of  a  vast  commerce.  Shad, 
herring,  rock-fish,  perch,  sea-trout,  sunfish,  weakfish,  croakers,  spot,  sheepshead,  bass, 
terrapin,  soft-shell  crabs,  and  oysters  abound  in  these  waters ;  and  the  drum-fish  of  Mis- 
pillion,  the  milletts  beyond  Henlopen,  and  the  lobsters  and  blackfish  of  the  Breakwater 
are  well  known.  Brandywine  Creek  comes  down  from  Pennsylvania  with  valuable  water- 
powers,  and  meets  the  navigable  Christiana  Creek  at  Wilmington.  The  chief  of  the  other 
streams  are  Smyrna  River,  St.  Jones  River  (navigable  to  Dover,  the  State  capital),  Murder- 
kill,  Mispillion  River  (navigable  eight  miles,  to  Milford),  Broadkill,  Indian  River,  and  Broad 
River  (navigable  ten  miles,  to  Laurel).  The  rivers  of  Sussex,  once  navigable  for  frigates, 
have  been  destroyed  by  the  slow  advance  of  the  sand-dunes,  which  have  buried  many 
leagues  of  farm-lands.  The  Pocomoke,  Choptank  and  Nanticoke  rivers  rise  in  Delaware, 
and  flow  across  eastern  Maryland  into  Chesapeake  Bay.  There  are  many  estuaries  along 

the  coast,  visited  by  small  coasting  craft,  carry- 
ing away  grain  and  sweet  potatoes,  oysters  and  tim- 
ber. The  proximity  of  Delaware  and  Chesapeake 
Bays  gives  great  equability  to  the  climate,  and 
the  winters  are  so  short  and  mild  that  in  the  south 
cattle  need  little  shelter.  The  north  is  colder, 
but  very  healthy,  while  the  south  suffers  some- 
what from  intermittent  fevers. 

Agriculture. — The  9,000  Delaware  farms  are 
valued  at  $37,000,000,  and  produce  yearly  4,000,- 
ooo  bushels  of  corn,  1,200,000  bushels  of  wheat, 
WILMINGTON  :  OLD  SWEDES  CHURCH.  with  oats  and  sorghum,  and  vast  quantities  of 


PEACH    GATHERING. 


I46  KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED  STATES. 

berries  and  dairy  products.  In  Kent,  many  tomatoes 
are  raised  and  canned  ;  and  the  north  yields  corn 
and  amber  wheat.  Grapes  and  melons  are  exported, 
and  7,000,000  quart-baskets  of  strawberries  yearly. 
The  soil  for  ten  miles  in  from  the  bay  is  rich,  but 
beyond  that  limit  it  contains  sand,  and  requires  fer- 
tilizing. Amid  the  broad  estates  of  the  gentlemen- 
farmers,  in  an  air  of  affluent  peace,  countless  vine- 
yards and  orchards  cover  the  country  with  lovely 
purple  and  crimson  hues.  Delmar,  Laurel,  Clayton, 
Wyoming,  Seaford,  Bridgeville,  Georgetown,  Mil- 
ford,  Harrington  and  Smyrna  are  among  the  shipping-points  of  the  55,000  acres  of  peaches. 
This  fruit  is  of  Persian  origin,  and  attains  its  highest  perfection  on  the  Chesapeake  penin- 
sula. The  trees  are  short-lived,  and  very  sensitive  to  frosts,  and  of  late  years  they  have 
been  seriously  menaced  by  the  destructive  blight  known  as  "the  yellows."  Maj.  Reybold 
founded  the  industry  of  growing  peaches  for  the  general  market,  near  Delaware  City,  just 
before  1860.  In  a  single  year  the  railway  has  carried  10,000  car-loads  of  peaches  and 
I,OOO  car-loads  of  berries.  In  1888,  the  peninsula  shipped  3,177,477  baskets  (each  five 
eighths  of  a  bushel)  of  peaches.  In  20  years,  55,000,000  baskets  were  produced  here. 
Vast  quantities  are  also  freighted  on  vessels,  or  used  in  the  canneries  and  evaporating  works. 
The  unprofitableness  of  the  fruit  and  grain  crops  of  the  past  few  years  has  caused  an  im- 
mense depreciation  in  land-values,  and  farms  are  worth  in  some  cases  much  less  than  they 
were  a  century  ago,  in  the  early  days  of  the  Republic. 

Along  the  cliff's  of  the  Brandywine  there  are  several  large  quarries  of  tenacious  and  even- 
grained  granite.  The  abundant  clays  and  kaolins  of  Wilmington  are  made  up  into  bricks, 
terra-cotta,  and  crockery.  These  works  employ  350  men.  The  fine  spar  quarried  near 
Wilmington  is  used  in  making  artificial  teeth. 

Government. — The  governor  serves  four  years,  and  appoints  the  judges  and  executive 
and  county  officers  (except  sheriffs  and  coroners),  but  has  no  veto  power.  The  General 
Assembly,  of  three  senators  and  seven  representatives  from  each  county,  meets  at  Dover  in 
January  of  each  odd-numbered  year.  The  National  Guard  includes  a  regiment  of  infantry 
and  two  troops  of  cavalry.  There  is  a  Gatling-gun  squad,  and  the  Delaware-college  cadets 
have  a  two-gun  battery.  Yearly  encampments  are  held,  at  Rehoboth,  Brandywine  Springs, 
and  elsewhere.  Delaware  owns  interest-paying  securities  exceeding  the  amount  of  her 
liabilities,  and  is  therefore  practically  out  of  debt,  and  does  not  assess  or  tax  real  or  per- 
sonal property  for  State  purposes.  Its  revenue  is  derived  from  general  business  licenses, 
bank  stock  and  capital,  and  insurance  companies.  The  railroads  pay  a  lump  sum  to  the 
State  of  above  $80,000  a  year,  in  lieu  of  other  taxes.  The  Delaware  townships  are  called 
"hundreds,"  after  an  English  custom  older  than  King  Alfred's  day,  and  the  county  repre- 
sentative boards  are  called  Levy  Courts.  More  than  half  the  population  dwells  in  the  little 
north  county.  One  sixteenth  of  the  people  are  foreigners,  and  one  sixth  are  colored.  Only 

one  third  dwell  on  farms.  Convicts  are  kept  in  the 
county  jails,  paupers  in  the  county  almshouses,  and 
blind,  idiotic  and  deaf-mute  children  in  Pennsylvanian 
training-schools.  Every  county  jail  has  its  pillory 
and  whipping-post,  where  condign  punishment  falls 
upon  the  backs  of  male  thieves  and  other  felons. 

Education  has  greatly  improved  since  the  act  of 
1875,  and  is  paid  f°r  by  local  taxation  and  the  rev- 
enue  of  a  State  fund  begun  in   1 796,  from  the  pro- 
ceeds of  marriage  and  tavern  licenses,  and  augmented 
WILMINGTON:  HIGH  SCHOOL.  in    1836  by  Delaware's  share  of  the  United-States 


THE  STATE   OF  DELAWARE. 


147 


WILMINGTON. 


Treasury  surplus.  Colored  people's  school-taxes  are 
set  apart  for  4,000  colored  children,  in  the 
70  schools  under  the  voluntary  Delaware 
Association  for  the  Education  of  the 
Colored  People,  which  receive  also 
State  appropriations.  Delaware  Col- 
lege, founded  in  1833,  at  Newark,  "  The  Athens  of 
Delaware,"  near  the  Iron  Hills,  became  a  State  col- 
lege in  1870,  and  has  since  had  periods  of  prosperity 
and  depression,  but  is  now  improving.  The  institution  has  seven  professors  and  100  stu- 
dents, and  maintains  military  drill,  under  the  direction  of  an  army  officer.  The  Agricult- 
ural Experiment  Station  is  connected  with  the  college.  The  Friends'  School,  at  Wilming- 
ton, dates  from  1748,  and  has  eight  instructors  and  185  students.  The  Academy  of  New- 
ark opened  in  1768,  and  has  100  pupils.  The  Wilmington  Conference  Academy,  at  Dover, 
is  a  prosperous  Methodist  school.  The  chief  libraries  are  the  Wilmington  Institute,  founded 
in  1787,  and  the  State  Library,  founded  in  1793,  each  with  16,000  volumes.  Delaware  has 
six  daily  newspapers  (four  English  and  two  German),  all  at  Wilmington,  and  30  weeklies. 

The  Methodists  have  166  churches  in  Delaware  ;  the  Presbyterians  32,  the  Episcopalians 
27,  and  the  Catholics,  Friends  and  Baptists  eight  each. 

National  Institutions. —  The  United-States  Government  finished  the  great  Delaware 
Breakwater  in  1828.  It  has  a  surf-breaker  of  2, 748  feet,  and  an  ice-breaker  of  1, 710  feet,  and 
stretches  into  the  sea  like  a  mighty  black  arm,  protecting  yearly  many  thousands  of  vessels. 
To  the  southward  projects  Cape  Henlopen,  with  a  long  white  beach,  and  lonely  sand-dunes 
and  landward  marshes.  Fort  Delaware,  near  Delaware  City,  mounts  155  guns,  but  is  not 
garrisoned.  Lewes  is  a  quaint  old  maritime  hamlet,  the  headquarters  of  the  Delaware-Bay 
pilots.  There  are  1 8  light-houses  on  the  coast,  with  a  supply  depot  at  Edge  Moor.  There 
is  a  tradition  that  the  Dutch  Greenland  Company  planted  the  flag  of  Holland  at  Lewes  in 
1598,  and  placed  a  colony  here  24  years  later.  In  view  of  its  marshes,  John  Randolph  of 
Roanoke  once  said  that  the  Delaware  senators  represented  three  counties  at  low  tide,  and 
one  county  at  high  tide.  Jefferson  called  Delaware  "the  diamond  in  the  coronation  of 
States  "  (whence  its  pet  name). 

Chief  Cities. —  Wilmington,  the  metropolis  of  the  State,  lies  upon  both  sides  of  the 
Christiana  River  and  the  rapid  Brandywine.  Both  are  tide-water  streams,  and  the 
Christiana  serves  as  an  excellent  harbor.  The  city  occupies  a  gently  rolling  upland, 
and  is  steadily  extending  over  the  diked  and  drained  meadows  to  the  Delaware  River, 
which  flows  along  its  eastern  boundary  for  a  league.  At  this  point,  65  miles  from  the 
ocean,  and  28  miles  below  Philadelphia,  the  Delaware  has  a  width  of  three  miles,  with  30 
feet  of  water  at  mid-tide  in  its  shoalest  parts.  Wilmington  (formerly  named  Willing-ton) 
was  the  first  permanent  European  settlement  in  the  valley  of  the  Delaware.  It  has 


a  high-school,    with    manual    training,    23   public    schools, 
trie   street-cars,   a   fine  water   department,    a  police   patrol 
tiful  natural  park  along  the  Brandywine.     The  most  interest- 
of  Delaware  is  the  Old    Swedes  Church,   founded  at  Wil- 
the  recipient  of  funds  from  William  Penn,  a  Bible  from 
Queen  Anne,  and  a  communion  service  from  the  miners  of 
Sweden.      It  belongs  to  the  Episcopalians,  and  its  ivy-clad- 
brick  walls  rise  amid  an  ancient  graveyard.      Dover,  the  cap- 
ital,  is  an  ancient  and  pleasant   town,   with  wide   and 
shadowy  streets  and  a  mild  climate,  six  miles  from  Del- 
aware Bay.     In  the  old  Episcopal  church-yard  a  tall  gran- 
ite monument  was  raised,  in  1889,  to  Gen.  Caesar  Rodney, 
the  Revolutionary  patriot.     Fruit-canning  centres  here, 


electric  lights,  elec- 
system,  and  a  beau- 
ing  of  the  antiquities 
mingtonin  1698,  and 


WILMINGTON  :     COUNTY    COURT-HOUSE. 


148 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 


WILMINGTON  :     P.    W.    &    B.    STATION. 


and  the  delicious  canned  plum-pudding  of  Dover  is  shipped 
\  to  England  and  France.     New  Castle,  one  of  the  quaintest 
"*  of  ancient  boroughs,  was  named  for  and  colonized  by  the 
city  of  Amsterdam,  and  then  captured  by  Sir  Robert  Carr, 
who  sold  its  Dutch  garrison  for  slaves  in  Virginia. 
It  is  on  the  bay,  five  miles  below  Wilmington. 

The  Railroads  of  Delaware  converge  at  Wil- 
mington, through  which  pass  the  Pennsylvania  and 
Baltimore  &  Ohio  lines,  each  running  southwest- 
ward  from  Philadelphia  to  Baltimore  and  Washington.  The  Pennsylvania  Company 
leases  the  Delaware  Railroad,  running  from  Wilmington  to  Delmar  and  beyond,  with 
branches  to  the  Maryland  ports  on  the  Chesapeake,  and  to  Delaware  City,  Bombay  Hook, 
Lewes,  Rehoboth,  Ocean  City,  and  other  points. 

The  Chesapeake  &  Delaware  Canal  was  finished  in  1829.  It  has  cost  $3,800,000,  and 
runs  for  13^  miles  across  the  neck  between  the  heads  of  the  two  great  bays.  It  is  nine  feet 
deep,  with  two  tide  and  two  lift  locks,  having  a  rise  and  fall  of  32  feet ;  and  is  in  constant  iise. 
The  Manufactures  of  Delaware  amount  to  over  $50,000,000  a  year,  their  most  notable 
feature  being  Wilmington's  iron  steamships,  built  for  the  Long-Island  Sound  and  Hudson- 
River  lines,  the  Morgan,  Cromwell  and  Pacific-Mail  lines,  and  the  routes  from  Boston  to 
New  York,  Philadelphia  and  Baltimore.  Several  war-ships  have  been  built  here ;  and  also 
the  yachts  Volunteer,  Priscilla,  Electra,  and  NourmahaL 
Wilmington  also  has  immense  car-shops ;  and  near  by  are 
the  DuPont  Mills,  the  largest  gunpowder-making  plant  in 
the  world,  founded  in  the  year  1802. 

Wilmington  is  in  communication  with  the  coal  and  iron 
country  of  Pennsylvania,  and  the  local  iron  and  steel  works 
employ  6,000  men,  and  produce  yearly  $11,000,000. 
Other  industries,  cotton,  paper,  pulp,  carriages,  and  ships, 
engage  1 1,000  persons,  with  a  yearly  output  of  $27,000,000. 
The  favorable  quality  of  the  Brandywine  water  has  drawn 
to  Wilmington  2,ooo  workers  in  morocco  and  leather,  whose  product  is  $5,000,000  a  year. 
The  Edge  Moor  Bridge  Works  are  close  to  Wilmington,  on  the  Delaware  River,  and 
employ  700  men.  The  grounds  cover  25  acres,  and  the  punching,  forging,  riveting, 
machine  and  blacksmith  shops,  and  the  offices  and  steam-plant  and  electric-light  plant  build- 
ings, are  substantial  structures  of  brick  and  stone.  Here  also  are  the  latest  improved  machin- 
ery and  most  complete  appliances  for  the  manufacture  of  all  kinds  of  structural  iron  and 
steel  work.  A  large  portion  of  the  machinery  has  been  specially  designed  for  these  works  ; 
and  the  Edge  Moor  Company  first  introduced  the  hydraulic  riveting  of  compressive  members, 
and  the  hydraulic  forging  of  tensile  members.  Metal  roof  frames,  structural  work  of  iron 
and  steel,  and  railway  turn-tables  are  made  here.  But  the  chief  industry  of  this  great  estab- 
lishment is  the  construction  of  bridges,  and  among  its  products  have  been  the  East-River 

Bridge,  with  its  7,000  tons  of  fitted  steel  work ;  the 
Kentucky-River  Bridge,  the  first  cantilever  bridge 
in  America ;  the  Susquehanna- River  Bridge  of  the 
Pennsylvania  Railroad,  the  largest  double-track 
bridge  in  the  world  ;  the  Northern-Pacific,  Sabula 
and  Minnehaha  bridges,  over  the  Mississippi ;  the 
Rulo,  Omaha  and  Sibley  bridges,  over  the  Missouri ; 
the  Wheeling  and  Ceredo  bridges,  over  the  Ohio ; 
EDGE  MOOR  BRIDGE  WORKS.  the  James-River  Bridge,  at  Richmond  ;  the  Sixth- 

avenue  Elevated  Railroad,  in  New  York ;  and  the  Pennsylvania  Railroad's  elevated  line  in 
Philadelphia,  the  Edge  Moor  company  being  both  engineers  and  constructors. 


WILMINGTON  :     B.  &    O.    STATION. 


Organized,    .     .     . 
Population  in  1860, 
In  1870,       .     .     . 
In  1880,       .     .     . 
White,    .     .     . 
Colored,      .     . 
American-born, 
Foreign-born, 
Males, 

Females,  .... 
In  1890  (U.  S.  census), 
Population  to  the  square  mile,  2,960.4 
Net  Public  debt,  .  .  .  $21,000,000 
Assessed  Valuation  of 

Property  (1890),      .     .  $153,000,000 


1,475 


on  the  banks  of  the  beautiful 
Potomac  River,  within  reach 
of  the  salt-sea  tides,  and  be- 
tween the  sections  which  a 
quarter  of  a  century  ago 
were  separated  by  such  hos- 
tile interests.  Its  site  was 
bought  of  the  Indians  by  an 

Englishman  named  Francis  Pope,  who  settled  here  in  1663, 
and  named  the  place  Rome,  calling  the  creek  which  flows 
into  the  Potomac  the  Tiber,  and  the  elevation  on  which 
the  U.-S.  Capitol  now  stands  the  Capitoline  Hill.  This 
eccentric  and  unconscious  prophet  used  to  sign  himself 
"Pope  of  Rome." 

During  the  Revolution  the  National  Government  moved 
from  town  to  town,  to  avoid  the  British  armies.  After  the 
war  several  States  claimed  the  seat  of  government,  to  be 
established  as  denned  by  the  Constitution,  not  to  exceed 
ten  miles  square,  and  to  remain  under  the  exclusive  legis- 
lation of  Congress.  In  1788-9  Maryland  and  Virginia 
each  offered  such  districts,  and  Congress  in  1790  accepted, 
specifying  the  present  location.  There  were  two  burning 
sectional  questions  before  the  Congress  of  1790,  one  as  to 
the  payment  by  the  Government  of  $20,000,000  of  war- 
debts,  incurred  by  the  individual  States  (mainly  in  the 
North)  during  the  Revolution,  and  the  other  as  to  the  loca- 
tion of  the  National  capital  on  the  Potomac.  The  Southern 
Congressmen  opposed  the  former,  and  the  Northerners  the 
latter,  prefering  a  site  on  the  Susquehanna  or  the  Delaware. 
Jefferson  and  Hamilton  finally  united  to  secure  concessions 
on  both  sides,  whereby  the  South  allowed  the  financial  bill 
to  pass,  and  the  North  consented  to  the  location  of  the 
capital  on  the  Potomac.  George  Washington  became 
acquainted  with  the  locality  when  a  youthful  surveyor,  and  again  when  an  officer  of  Brad- 
dock's  army,  which  encamped  at  Georgetown.  He  secured  the  land  from  the  proprietors, 
to  whom  the  Government  deeded  back  half  the  city-lots.  The  obscure  Maryland  hamlets 


Area  (square  miles),      . 
U.  S.  Representatives  . 
Militia  (disciplined),       . 
Counties  ........  i 

Post-offices,       .....  ii 

Railroads  (miles),      ...  31 

Manufactures  (yearly),  $12,000,000 
Farm  Land  (in  acres),  .  .  18,000 

Farm-Land  Values,    .       $3,600,000 
Public  Schools,      ....  90 

School  Children,     .     .     .         30,000 
Newspapers,     .....  65 

Latitude,  .  .  .  38°  51'  to  39°  N. 
Longitude,  .  .  76058'  to  77°6'  W. 
Temperature,  ....  —  14°  to  104° 
Mean  Temperature,  .  .  54-7° 

CHIEF   SECTIONS  AND  THEIR    POPU- 

LATIONS. (Census  of  1890.) 
The  District  is  now  under  one 
municipal  government,  that  of  Wash- 
ington, with  230,392  inhabitants. 
The  part  of  this  covered  by  old 
Washington  has  188,932  inhabitants  ; 
old  Georgetown,  14,046  ;  Mount 
Pleasant,  3,000  ;  Anacostia,  2,000  ; 
and  Brightwood,  1,000.  _ 


150  KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 

of  Funkstown,  or  Hamburg  (at  Observatory  Hill)  and  Carrollsville  (on  Arsenal  point)  were 
blotted  out,  and  the  Federal  City  came  into  theoretical  existence.  The  magnificent  system 
of  avenues  was  planned  by  Major  L'Enfant,  and  laid  out  by  Surveyor  Andrew  Ellicott.  In 
1791  the  new  public  domain  received  the  official  title  of  the  Territory  of  Columbia;  and 
the  Federal  City  became  the  City  of  Washington. 

In  1800,  when  the  city  had  3,000  inhabitants,  the  north  wing  of  the  Capitol  being 
finished,  the  public  archives  were  transferred  in  a  sloop  from  Philadelphia,  and  Congress  held 
its  first  session  here.  "The  capital  of  miserable  huts"  was  likened  to  the  Serbonian  bog  ; 
and  Pennsylvania  Avenue  formed  only  a  cleared  line  through  a  morass  of  alder-bushes. 
In  1814  a  British  army  of  4,500  men  routed  the  American  militia  at  Bladensburg,  and 
occupied  Washington,  destroying  the  public  buildings.  No  Government  edifices  having 
been  erected  on  the  western  side  of  the  Potomac,  Alexandria  and  Virginia  petitioned  that  that 
part  of  the  District  should  be  retroceded  to  Virginia  ;  and  this  was  done,  in  1846. 

The  city  was  menaced  by  the  Confederate  troops  at  the  outbreak  of  the  civil  war,  until 
the  night  of  May  23,  1861,  when  Wood's  column  crossed  the  Aqueduct,  Heintzelman 
moved  over  Long  Bridge,  arid  Ellsworth  occupied  Alexandria.  During  the  subsequent  war, 
the  defenses  of  Washington  consisted  of  68  forts,  mounting  905  cannon  and  mortars,  with 
93  batteries  for  field-guns,  and  20  miles  of  rifle-pits.  These  works  covered  a  perimeter  of 
37  miles,  and  had  a  garrison  of  many  thousand  men.  They  saved  the  capital  from  assault 
after  the  various  reverses  of  the  Federal  armies  in  Virginia ;  and  in  1864  repelled  by  their 
guns  an  attack  in  force  by  Gen.  Early's  army. 

On  May  23  and  24,  1865,  Washington  rejoiced  in  the  grandest  military  display  ever 
seen  in  America,  when  the  bronzed  veterans  of  the  National  armies  marched  in  review 
past  the  President.  On  the  first  day  came  the  Army  of  the  Potomac,  headed  by  Gen. 
Meade,  Merritt's  Cavalry  Corps,  Macy's  Provost  Guards,  Benham's  Engineer  Brigade, 
Parke's  9th  Corps,  Dwight's  Division  of  the  1 9th,  Griffin's  5th  and  Humphrey's  2d.  The 
next  day  Sherman  and  his  men  marched  through  the  jubilant  streets,  with  Logan's  Army  of 
the  Tennessee,  containing  Hazen's  I5th  Corps  and  Blair's  I7th,  and  Slocum's  Army  of 
Georgia,  composed  of  Mower's  2oth  Corps  and  Davis's  I4th  Corps. 

After  1871  Alexander  R.  Shepherd,  Governor  Henry  D.  Cooke,  and  other  progressive 
citizens  of  the  District,  secured  the  authority  to  take  adequate  measures  to  "lift  Washing- 
ton out  of  the  mud."  The  government  thus  organized  raised  money  by  local  taxation  and 
by  the  sale  of  District  bonds,  and  set  an  army  of  laborers  to  grading  and  paving,  parking 
and  tree-planting.  Within  ten  years  $25,000,000  were  spent  in  improving  the  city.  As  a 
result,  Washington  rose  from  a  rambling  Southern  town  to  the  position  and  dignity  of  a 
true  cosmopolitan  city,  beautiful  in  situation  and  in  architecture,  and  a  continental  centre 
of  scientific  and  literary  culture.  Washington  received  incorporation  as  a  city  in  1802,  and 
its  mayors  were  elected  by  the  people  until  1871,  when  Congress  revoked  the  charter.  The 
District  is  named  in  honor  of  Columbus,  the  discoverer  of  America.  The  only  governors 
the  District  has  had  were  Henry  D.  Cooke,  in  1871-3,  and  Alexander  R.  Shepherd,  in 

1873-4. 

Descriptive. —  Washington  lies  on  the  Potomac  River,  106^  miles  from  Chesapeake 
Bay,  and  185^  miles  (by  ship-channel)  from  the  ocean,  between  the  Anacostia  (or  Eastern 
Branch),  a  broad  and  shallow  tidal  river,  once  navigable  to  Bladensburg,  and  Rock  Creek, 
a  picturesque  hill-stream.  The  undulating  surface  of  the  District  is  surrounded  by  eleva- 
tions of  from  150  to  400  feet,  Washington  being  built  within  this  amphitheatre,  with 
Capitol  Hill  rising  to  a  height  of  90  feet.  The  soil  is  a  fairly  fertile  light  sandy  loam  and 
clay,  resting  on  cretaceous  rocks,  and  supports  about  $4,000,000  worth  of  farms  and 
market-gardens.  There  are  many  oaks,  hickories,  pines,  chestnuts,  butternuts,  elms  and 
lindens.  The  climate  is  healthy,  although  the  summers  have  the  high  mean  temperature 
°f  75°>  with  southerly  winds.  A  flurry  of  cold  weather  occasionally  diversifies  the  mild 
and  pleasant  winters,  but  snow  does  not  lie  long,  and  the  Potomac  freezes  across  only  in 


THE  DISTRICT  OF  COLUMBIA. 


WASHINGTON  :  THE  CAPITOL  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES. 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE   UNITED   STATES. 


January.  The  mean  temperature  is  nearly  the  same  as  that  of  San  Francisco.  The  city 
is  farther  south  than  Vienna  or  Rome.  The  District  is  more  populous  than  seven  of  the 
States  and  Territories.  It  has  2,200  Britons,  3,500  Germans,  8,000  Irishmen,  29,000 
Virginians,  34,000  Marylanders,  6,000  New-Yorkers,  5,600  Pennsylvanians,  and  4,500  New 
Englanders.  One  third  of  the  inhabitants  are  colored. 

The  manufactures  are  unimportant,  except  for  the  well-known  flour-mills  of  George- 
town. The  Potomac  is  navigable  for  large  vessels  up  to  Georgetown.  It  yields  abundantly 
of  fine  herring,  shad,  perch,  bass,  enormous  sturgeon  and  other  food-fish.  Georgetown  is 
the  port  of  entry,  but  has  only  slight  remains  of  its  ancient  commerce  with  England  and 
the  West  Indies.  472  vessels,  of  28,196  tons,  are  owned  here  ;  and  steamboats  run  to  the 
Potomac  ports,  Norfolk  and  Baltimore. 

The  plan  of  Washington  was  designed  by  the  French  military  engineer,  1'Enfant,  under  the 
advice  of  Jefferson,  who,  while  in  the  diplomatic  service,  had  carefully   studied   the  great 
capitals  of  Europe.      It  is  a  successful  endeavor  to  combine  the  practical   straight  lines  of 
Babylon    and    Philadelphia     with    the 
artistic    beauty  and    grace  of  Versailles, 
and   to    furnish  noble  and   commanding 
sites  for  the  public  buildings.      The  east-  k 


named  for  the 
letters  of  the 
alphabet  ;  the 


northern  and  south- 
ern streets  are  named 
for  figures ;  and  across 
their  geometrical  reg- 
ularity run  21  broad- 
er diagonal  avenues 
(from  120  to  1 60  feet 

wide),  named  for  the  States,  and  forming  many 
open  squares,  circles  and  triangles.  More  than 
half  the  city  is  in  streets  and  parks,  the  former 
of  which  are  the  widest  in  the  world,  and  are 
overhung  by  myriads  of  fine  shade-trees,  and 
partly  given  up  to  narrow  parks.  Nearly  all 

the  residence-streets,  covering  sixty  miles,  are  paved  with  asphalt,  forming  a  luxurious  and 
durable  roadway  to  drive  upon.  Massachusetts  Avenue  is  the  grandest  of  the  thorough- 
fares, over  five  miles  long,  from  the  Anacostia  River  to  Kalorama  Heights  and  Rock 
Creek,  traversing  high  ground,  with  an  imperial  width  of  160  feet,  and  adorned  for  a  full 
league  with  two  rows  of  overarching  lindens  on  each  side.  Pennsylvania  Avenue  is  of 
nearly  equal  length,  and  its  section  leading  from  the  shining  colonnades  of  the  Capitol  to 
the  .noble  temple-front  of  the  Treasury  Department  is  the  main  street  of  the  city.  It  is 
one  of  the  brightest,  laziest  and  most  historic  and  interesting  streets  in  America,  and 
Washington  and  Hamilton,  Jefferson  and  Lafayette,  Lincoln  and  Grant  have  trodden  its 
level  walks.  No  other  city  in  the  world  is  so  magnificently  shaded,  for  there  are  upwards 
of  120,000  trees  on  the  120  miles  of  its  streets.  The  region  northwest  of  the  White 
House  was  formerly  known  as  "The  Slashes,"  and  furnished  pasturage  for  cows,  goats  and 
geese.  It  is  now  one  of  the  handsomest  of  residence-quarters,  covered  with  modern 


THE  DISTRICT  OF  COLUMBIA. 


brick  and  stone  houses  of  distinctive  character,  the  foreign  legations,  and  homes  of  senators 
and  cabinet-officers,  set  amid  green  lawns  and  beds  of  bright  flowers. 

In  1871  the  city  and  county  governments  were  replaced  by  a  Territorial  government,  with 
a  Governor,  a  board  of  public  works,  and  a  legislature,  and  a  delegate  in  Congress.  The 
enormous  debt  incurred  by  the  Board  of  Public  Works,  in  transforming  and  improving  the 
city,  caused  Congress  to  break  up  the  Territory  in  1874,  and  vest  the  municipal  executive 
powers  in  three  commissioners,  two  of  whom  are  civilians  and  one  a  U.-S.  Engineer 
officer,  appointed  by  the  President.  There  is  a  Supreme  Court  of  six  justices,  with  other 
tribunals  and  officials.  The  law  is  the  common  law  of  England,  with  enactments  of  the 
State  of  Maryland,  modified  by  acts  of  Congress  and  the  several  local  municipal  govern- 
ments which  have  been  in  force  here.  Residents  of  the  Dis- 
trict have  no  right  to  vote  on  National  or  local  questions ;  yet, 
the  municipality  is  the  best  governed  in  America.  The  legis- 
lative power  rests  entirely  in  Congress.  The  District  Court 
House  was  built  in  1820-49,  and  served  until  1871  for  the  city 
hall.  The  debt  is  in  a  sinking-fund,  of  which  the  Treasurer 
of  the  United  States  is  commissioner.  The  revenues  arise 
from  taxes  levied  on  private  property  and  privileges,  to  which 
Congress  adds  an  equal  amount  by  appropriations.  The  yearly 
expenses  of  the  District  amount  to  over  $5,000,000. 

The  water-supply  comes  from  the  Potomac,  above  Great  Falls,  fourteen  miles  distant, 
and  is  capable  of  giving  Washington  a  more  copious  supply  than  any  other  city  in  America 
receives.  The  largest  stone  arch  on  the  continent  carries  this  aqueduct  across  Cabin-John 
Creek.  The  city  markets  are  famed  for  their  profusion  and  cheapness  of  provisions,  and 
draw  their  supplies  largely  from  the  Maryland  and  Virginia  farms. 

The  schools  are  very  efficient  and  successful,  and  attendance  is  general.  There  are  dif- 
ferent public  schools  for  white  and  colored  children.  Columbian  University  was  opened  in 
1822,  and  has  classical,  medical  and  law  departments,  with  20  professors  and  323  students. 
It  occupies  an  imposing  structure  of  brick  and  terra  cotta,  with  handsome  lecture-halls  and 
museums,  not  far  from  the  Treasury  Department.  Howard  University  was  founded  in 
1867,  mainly  for  colored  persons,  and  has  collegiate,  theological,  law,  medical,  commercial, 
normal  and  preparatory  schools,  with  nearly  500  students.  Georgetown  University  was 
founded  by  Bishop  Carroll  in  1789,  and  is  prosperous  and  finely  equipped,  with  classical, 
medical  and  law  schools,  61  instructors  and  550  students  (largely  from  the  South),  a 
library  of  45,000  volumes,  and  a  magnificent  site  on  the  heights  above  Georgetown,  look- 
ing down  the  Potomac  for  many  miles.  It  is  the  oldest  Catholic  college  in  the  United 
States,  and  has  a  corps  of  learned  Jesuit  professors.  Gonzaga  College  is  a  Jesuit  high- 


OBSERVATORY. 


school,  founded  in  1858,  with  150  students.     The 
America,  incorporated  in  1885,  occupies  a  beau- 
tiful site  of  65  acres  on  the  highlands  near  the 
Soldiers'  Home.    The  first  department  opened  (in 
1889)  was  that  of  divinity,  with  7  professors  and 
an  endowment  of  $500,000.     The  Paulists  have 
a  house  of  studies  here,  and  will  be  followed  by 
other  religious  orders,  forming  a   mediaeval  city 
of   scholastics.     The    Methodists    bought   in    1890    a 
tract  of  90  acres  near  Oak  View,   for  the  site   of  a 
National  university.     There  are  several  other  semina- 
ries and  schools  of  law,  pharmacy  and  theology.     The 
city  has  nearly  150  churches,  40  Methodist,  25  Baptist, 
20   Presbyterian,    18    Episcopalian   and    12    Catholic. 
Among  the  Episcopal  churches  are  St.  Paul's,  at  Rock 


Catholic  University  of 


EORGETOWN   UNIVERSITY.       2.    HOWARD   UNIVERSITY. 
3.    COLUMBIAN    INSTITUTE. 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES. 


CATHOLIC   UNIVERSITY  OF  AMERICA. 


Creek,  founded  in  1719  ;  Christ,  near  the  Navy  Yard,  founded  in  1795,  and  the  church  of 
Jefferson  and  Monroe;  and  St.  John's,  near  the  White  House,  founded  in  1816,  and 
attended  by  Madison,  Jackson  and  Arthur.  The  First  Presbyterian  Church  was  attended 
by  Jackson,  Polk,  Pierce  and  Cleveland,  and  also  by  Webster,  Benton,  Houston  and  other 
statesmen.  The  New-York  Avenue  Presbyterian  Church  was  Buchanan's  and  Lincoln's 
place  of  worship.  Grant  worshipped .  at  the  Metropolitan  Methodist  Church;  Hayes  at 
the  Foundry  Methodist  Church ;  John  Quincy  Adams  at  the  old  Unitarian  Church  ; 
Garfield  at  the  Christian  Church ;  and  Benjamin  Har- 
rison at  the  Presbyterian  Church  of  the  Covenant. 

The  Government  Hospital  for  the  Insane,  on  the 
noble  heights  south  of  the  Anacostia,  contains  1,500 
patients,  from  the  army  and  navy  and  insane  residents 
and  temporary  residents  of  the  District.  It  dates 
from  1855,  and  occupies  a  cultivated  park  of  419 
acres.  The  Columbian  Institution  for  the  Deaf  and 
Dumb  was  founded  by  Amos  Kendall,  for  District 
people  and  children  of  soldiers  and  sailors.  Here  is  the  National  Deaf-Mute  College,  the 
only  one  in  the  world,  with  eight  teachers  and  60  students.  Its  handsome  pointed  Gothic 
building  of  sandstone  was  erected  by  the  Government  in  1870-1,  on  the  pleasant  Kendall- 
Green  estate  of  a  hundred  acres. 

The  railroads  are  the  Baltimore  &  Ohio  and  the  Baltimore  &  Potomac,  both  running 
to  Baltimore,  and  the  former  also  passing  from  Washington  westward  to  the  Ohio  Valley. 
The  famous  Long  Bridge  carries  the  tracks  which  unite  the  Maryland  and  Virginia  railway 
systems.  The  District  has  serviceable  and  far-reaching  street-railways,  extending  across 
the  city  in  every  direction,  and  to  various  suburban  villages. 

By  the  War  Department's  Official  Table  of  Distances,  on  the  "shortest  usually  travelled 
routes,"  Washington  is  230  miles  from  New  York,  458  from  Boston,  115  from  Richmond, 
673  from  Savannah,  1,349  from  Key  West,  1,001  from  Mobile,  I,  no  from  New  Orleans, 
1,521  from  Galveston,  1,829  from  Brownsville,  553  from  Cincinnati,  813  from  Chicago,  894 
from  St.  Louis,  1,223  fr°m  St.  Paul,  1,810  from  Denver,  2,374  from  Salt-Lake  City,  3,167 
from  San  Francisco,  3,122  from  Portland  (Oregon),  and  4,484  from  Sitka. 

Amid  the  grand  avenues  and  parks  of  Washington  rise  the  magnificent  and  spacious 
administrative  offices  of  the  Government,  representing  an  outlay  of  above  $100,000,000, 
and  forming  a  group  of  edifices  unrivalled  elsewhere.  The  Capitol  of  the  United  States  is 
one  of  the  most  majestic  buildings  in  the  world,  in  grandeur  of  form  and  richness  of  mate- 
rial, its  glistening  dome  and  vast  walls  and  colonnades  of  Massachusetts  and  Maryland 
marble  rising  like  a  snowy  exhalation  from  the  deep  green  of  the  surrounding  parks,  and 
visible  from  leagues  away  on  the  Virginian  hills.  The  old  north  wing  was  founded  by 
Washington  in  1793,  and  finished  in  1800,  and  the  old  south  wing  dates  from  1811.  De- 
stroyed by  the  British  in  1814,  the  edifice  was  rebuilt  in  1817-27.  In  1851  the  architect 
commenced  the  new  extensions,  the  House  occupying  the  present  hall  in  1857,  and  the 
Senate  in  1859.  The  great  iron  dome  arose  in  the  terrible  years  1856-65.  The  chief 


architects  of    the 


GEORGETOWN    UNIVERSITY. 


Capitol  were    B.  H.  Latrobe  of   Maryland,  in   1803-17;     Charles 
Bulfinch  of    Massachusetts,   in   1817-51  ;      Thomas  M.  Walter  of 
Pennsylvania,  in  1851—65  ;    and  Edward  Clark  of  Penn- 
sylvania.      The  cost  of   the  Capitol  and    its  furnishings 
has    probably    exceeded    $30,000,000.     The    first 
troops  arriving  in  Washington  early  in  the  Seces- 
sion War  converted   the  building  into  a  fortress, 
and    during    the    battle-years   work    was    steadily 
carried  forward  on  the  Capitol,  it  being  President 
Lincoln's    opinion,    that    the    cessation   of    these 


THE  DISTRICT  OF  COLUMBIA. 


T55 


constructive  labors  would  dispirit  the  soldiers  of  the  army.  The  Capitol  stands  on  the 
western  brow  of  Capitol  Hill,  with  its  main  front  toward  the  plateau  on  the  east,  and  the 
other  side  overlooking  the  city  and  its  great  departmental  palaces,  the  broad  estuary  of 
the  Potomac,  and  the  lonely  hills  of  Virginia.  The  building  is  in  rich  classic  architecture, 
and  covers  three  and  a  half  acres,  being  composed  of  a  central  structure,  containing  the 
Rotunda  and  Library,  and  a  north  wing  for  the  Senate  Chamber  and  a  south  wing  for  the 
House  of  Representatives.  Each  of  these  sections  has  imposing  colonnaded  porticoes,  the 
chief  of  which,  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  central  edifice,  is  the  place  where  the  Presidents 
are  inaugurated.  The  dome,  307^  feet  high  and  135^  feet  in  diameter  (and  exceeded  in 
size  only  by  St.  Peter's,  St.  Paul's,  the  Invalides  and  St.  Isaac's),  is  crowned  by  a  peri- 
styled  lantern,  above  which  stands  Crawford's  majestic  bronze  statue  of  Freedom,  19^  feet 
high.  This  huge  dome  contains  4,000  tons  of  iron,  arranged  to  move  during  atmospheric 
changes  like  the  folding  and  unfolding  of  a  lily,  and  frequently  painted  a  glistening  white. 
It  overarches  the  Rotunda,  96  feet  in  diameter  and  1 80  feet  high,  adorned  with  historic 
busts  and  bas-reliefs  and  eight  large  historical  paintings,  with  Brumidi's  vivid  allegorical 
fresco  of  the  Apotheosis  of  Washing-  I  ton  overhead.  The  view  from  the  top  of 
the  dome  is  of  wonderful  beauty  and  &  interest.  For  a  long  time  the  Confed- 

erate forts  and  troops  were  visible  //i?fuV  from  the  unfinished  colonnades  of  this 

architectural  marvel.    The  Capitol  /'V-'illllm  *s  crowded  with  interesting   scenes  ; 

the    historic    halls    of    the    two  fffffjjflSl^          houses  of  Congress  (of  which  that 

devoted   to   the   Representatives          ^niiimii&         *s  tne  largest  legislative  hall  in  the 


THE    CAPITOL,   FROM    THE    EAST. 

world)  ;  the  grand  porticoes,  with  their  wealth  of  statuary  and  Corinthian  columns  ;  the 
bronze  doors,  unequaled  outside  of  Florence,  and  covered  with  statuettes  and  reliefs,  the 
discovery  of  America,  the  life  of  Columbus,  the  Revolutionary  battles,  the  inauguration  of 
Washington;  the  Library  of  Congress,  the  largest  in. America,  containing  640,000  books, 
and  abounding  in  rare  treasures  of  literature;  the  beautiful  Supreme-Court  Room,  used  in 
old  times  as  the  Senate  Chamber,  and  now  the  seat  of  the  highest  legal  tribunal  in 
America  ;  the  sumptuous  reception  and  committee  rooms  and  corridors  ;  the  President's 
Room,  the  most  richly  decorated  in  America  ;  the  Marble  Room,  of  Italian  and  Tennessee 
marble,  called  the  finest  apartment  of  the  kind  in  the  world ;  the  wonderful  marble  stair- 
cases of  the  legislative  wings,  with  their  great  paintings  of  Chapultepec,  the  Battle  of  Lake 
Erie,  and  Westward  the  Star  of  Empire  takes  its  way  ;  the  huge  Doric  columns  of  the 
crypt ;  and  the  National  Statuary  Hall,  an  impressive  Greek  chamber,  of  noble  dimensions, 
adorned  by  each  State  with  statues  of  two  of  its  most  illustrious  sons.  This  unrivalled 
hall  was  used  by  the  House  of  Representatives  from  1808  to  1814,  and  from  1817  to  1857, 
and  witnessed  the  triumphs  of  Webster  and  Clay,  Randolph  and  Calhoun,  Adams  and 
Corwin,  and  other  leaders  of  the  Republic.  The  statues  now  here  are  William  King  of 
Maine  ;  Ethan  Allen  and  Jacob  Collamer  of  Vermont ;  John  Winthrop  and  Samuel  Adams 
of  Massachusetts  ;  Williams  and  Greene  of  Rhode  Island ;  Sherman  and  Trumbull  of 
Connecticut ;  George  Clinton  and  Livingston  of  New  York  ;  Stockton  and  Kearny  of  New 
Jersey ;  Fulton  and  Muhlenberg  of  Pennsylvania ;  Baker  of  Oregon ;  Garfield  and  Allen 
of  Ohio,  and  Lewis  Cass  of  Michigan.  Here  also  are  David  D' Anger's  statue  of  Jefferson, 
Stone's  Hamilton,  Mrs.  Hoxie's  Lincoln,  and  Houdon's  Washington. 


156  KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 

The  President  conducts  the  Government  administration  by  nine  departments,  State, 
Treasury,  War,  Navy,  Interior,  Post-Office,  Justice,  Agriculture  and  Labor,  whose  heads  he 
appoints,  subject  to  confirmation  by  the  Senate.  All  but  the  last  belong  to  the  Cabinet. 

The  State  Department  administers  the  external  policy  of  the  Government  by  nearly  1,300 
persons  in  consular  service  and  the  legations.  The  so-called  Department  of  Foreign  Affairs 
was  re-named  the  Department  of  State,  in  1789,  and  has  charge  of  the  negotiation  of 
treaties  and  diplomatic  correspondence,  grants  passports,  and  guards  the  seal  of  the  United 
States.  In  the  event  of  the  President  and  Vice-President  dying  in  office,  the  Secretary  of 
State  succeeds  them  (Act  of  1886).  The  State,  War  and  Navy  Departments  occupy  an 
enormous  quadrangular  structure,  erected  in  1871-88,  at  a  cost  of  $10, 500,000,  and  the  largest 
granite  building  in  the  world.  It  covers  four  and  a  half  acres,  and  has  twenty  acres  of 
floor-space.  Its  huge  blocks  of  light-gray  Virginia  and  Maine  granite  weigh  from  half  a 
ton  to  twenty  tons  each,  and  will  outlast  centuries.  The  State  Department  occupies  the 

south  wing,  built  in  1871-5.  The  original 
Declaration  of  Independence  and  Wash- 
ington's sword  and  commission  are  kept 
in  this  building.  The  heads  of  the 
State  Department  have  been  Jefferson, 
Randolph,  Pickering,  Marshall,  Madison, 
Smith,  Monroe,  Adams,  Clay,  Van  Buren, 
Livingston,  McLane,  Forsyth,  Webster, 
Legare,  Upshur,  Nelson,  Calhoun,  Bu- 
chanan, Clayton,  Everett,  Marcy,  Cass, 
Black,  Seward,  Washburne,  Fish,  Evarts,  Frelinghuysen,  Bayard  and  Elaine. 

The  Treasury  Department  cost  $8,000,000,  and  covers  an  area  of  582  by  300  feet, 
including  two  enclosed  courts.  The  east  front  was  built  in  1836-41,  with  a  colonnade  in 
the  style  of  the  Athenian  temple  of  Minerva  Pallas  ;  and  the  other  three  fronts  arose  in 
1855—69,  in  noble  Ionic  architecture,  with  broad  porticoes  and  many  huge  monolithic 
pillars.  The  material  of  these  three  fronts  is  Maine  biotite  granite,  in  Cyclopean  blocks  ; 
and  the  Cash  Room  is  lined  with  rare  marble  from  Vermont,  Tennessee,  Italy  and  the 
Pyrenees.  The  huge  vaults  of  steel  and  chilled  iron  contain  the  National-Bank  bonds  and 
scores  of  millions  of  dollars  in  silver  and  gold  coin.  The  Department  of  the  Treasury 
was  organized  in  1789,  and  has  charge  of  the  finances  of  the  Republic,  mints,  currency, 
internal  revenue,  customs,  receipts,  life-saving  service,  steamboat  inspection,  marine  hospi- 
tals, light-houses,  statistics,  and  the  coast  and  geodetic  survey.  It  employs  over  16,000 
persons,  2, 500  of  them  in  the  department  proper.  Among  its  chiefs  have  been  Hamilton, 
Gallatin,  Crawford,  Rush,  Woodbury,  Guthrie,  Cobb,  Chase,  McCulloch,  Boutwell,  Bristow, 
Sherman,  Manning,  Fairchild  and  Windom. 

The  War  Department  occupies  the  central  and  the  northern  and  western  wings  (built  in 
1878-89)  of  the  vast  granite  palace  where  the  State  Department  dwells,  and  has  1,500 
clerks  and  3,000  men  employed 
outside.  This  is  also  the  head- 
quarters of  the  Army,  consisting 
of  27,000  men,  in  ten  regiments  of 
cavalry,  five  of  artillery,  and  25  of 
infantry,  and  distributed  over  the 
Military  Divisions  of  the  Atlantic, 
the  Missouri  (including  the  Depart- 
ments of  the  Platte  and  Dakota), 
and  the  Pacific  (Departments  of 
California  and  the  Columbia), 
and  the  independent  Departments  UNITED-STATES  TREASURY  DEPARTMENT. 


THE  DISTRICT  OF  COLUMBIA. 


INTERIOR  DEPARTMENT:     THE  PATENT  OFFICE. 


of  Arizona,  the  Missouri  and  Texas,  which  report  direct  to  Army  headquarters.  The  Divi- 
sion of  the  Atlantic  includes  Louisiana  and  all  the  States  east  of  the  Mississippi  River, 
except  Illinois.  The  Secretary  of  War  arranges  all  details  of  the  military  service,  trans- 
portation, and  the  purchase  of  supplies  for  the  army.  The  Quartermaster-General  and 
1, 800  employees  see  to  the  transportation,  clothing  and  quarters  of  the  Army;  the  Com- 
missary-General and  70  men  provide  subsistence  for  the  troops ;  the  Surgeon-General  has 
1,000  persons  to  help  him,  and  the  Paymaster-General  has  140.  The  Chief  of  Engi- 
neers looks  to  the  fortifications,  rivers  and  harbors,  and  bridges ;  the  Chief  of  Ordnance 
is  in  care  of  the  artillery,  arsenals,  weapons  and  munitions  ;  the  Judge-Advocate  General 
is  in  charge  of  the  Bureau  of  Military  Justice.  The  Adjutant-General  and  his  200  officials 
regulate  the  correspondence,  recruiting  and  gen- 
eral discipline  of  the  Army ;  and  the  Inspec- 
tor-General inspects  forts  and  posts,  accounts, 
personnel  and  materiel  of  the  Army.  Among 
the  heads  of  the  War  Department  have  been 
Knox,  Pickering,  McHenry,  Dexter,  Dearborn, 
Eustis,  Armstrong,  Monroe,  Crawford,  Cal- 
houn,  Barbour,  Porter,  Eaton,  Cass,  Poinsett, 
Marcy,  Cameron,  Stanton,  Belknap,  Endicott 
and  Proctor. 

The  Navy  Department,  in  the  eastern  wing  (built  in  1872-9),  supervises  the  American 
fleets,  their  building  and  equipment,  manning  and  employment.  The  bureaus  are  those  of 
Yards  and  Docks,  Navigation,  Ordnance,  Equipment,  Provisions  and  Clothing,  Medicine 
and  Surgery,  Construction  and  Repair,  and  Steam  Engineering.  The  Naval  Observatory, 
with  a  Warner  &  Swasey  telescope,  the  Hydrographic  Office  and  the  Nautical- Almanac 
Office  are  also  under  the  Navy  Department.  There  are  250  clerks  in  the  department,  and 
3,800  employees  outside.  The  Navy  includes  8,250  sailors  and  2,000  marines,  in  80 
vessels,  carrying  300  guns.  The  fleets  remained  under  the  direction  of  the  Secretary  of 
War  until  1798,  when  the  Department  of  the  Navy  came  into  being,  and  the  Marine  Corps 
was  organized.  Among  its  heads  have  been  Crowninshield,  Dickerson,  Paulding,  Upshur, 
Bancroft,  Mason,  Toucey,  Welles,  Robeson,  Chandler,  Whitney  and  Tracy. 

The  Interior  Department  covers  two  squares,  nearly  midway  between  the  Capitol  and 
the  White  House,  with  its  immense  and  massive  facades  and  porticoes,  in  the  Doric  style, 
and  mainly  of  glistening  white  Maryland  marble.  This  edifice  is  one  of  the  finest  in 
Washington,  and  usually  bears  the  name  of  the  Patent  Office,  because  its  great  halls  contain 
myriads  of  inventors'  models. 

The  Interior  Department  has  nearly  10,000  persons  in  its  service,  under  the  Commissioners 
of  Patents,  Pensions,  General  Land-Office,  Indian  Affairs, 
Education,  Railroads,  Geological  Survey,  Inter-State  Com- 
merce, Pacific  Railways  and  the  Census.  The  south  front 
of  the  structure  dates  from  1836-40,  and  the  rest  from  1849- 
67.  The  building  contains  191  rooms,  and  cost  $2,700,000. 
The  Department  of  the  Interior  dates  from  1849,  and  has 
numbered  among  its  chiefs  McClelland,  Usher,  Delano, 
Chandler,  Schurz,  Lamar  and  Noble.  The  earliest  legis- 
lation about  patents  occurred  in  1790;  and  the  first  Com- 
missioner of  Patents  received  his  appointment  in  1836. 
The  Patent  Office  has  no  equal  in  the  world,  and  admirably 
shows  forth  the  ingenuity  and  enterprise  of  the  American 
people. 

The  Post-Office  Department  occupies  a  rich  and  ornate 
INTERIOR  CONGRESSIONAL  LIBRARY.       Corinthian  structure  of  white  marble,  begun  in  1839,  °PP°- 


'58 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE   UNITED   STATES. 


UNITED-STATES    POST-OFFICE. 


site  the  Patent  Office.  It  has  600  clerks,  and  an  outside  force  of  nearly  one  hundred  and 
fifty  thousand  persons,  including  63,000  postmasters  (handling  4,000,000,000  pieces  yearly), 
and  6,000  persons  in  the  railway  mail  service.  The  no  clerks  in  the  Dead-Letter  Office 
yearly  treat  above  6,500,000  pieces  of  mail-matter.  The  department  began  operations  in 
1789.  and  the  Postmaster-General  first  became  a  Cabinet  officer  in  1829,  in  Jackson's  admin- 
istration. Among  its  chiefs  have  been  Pickering,  Habersham,  Granger,  Meigs,  Kendall, 
Campbell,  Blair,  Creswell,  Jewell,  Vilas  and  Wanamaker. 

The  Department  of  Agriculture  began  its  labors  in  1862,  and  distributes  yearly  among 
the  people  over  1,200,000  packages  of  seeds,  and  myriads  of  vines  and  plants,  besides  several 

hundred  thousand  volumes  of  reports.  It  occu- 
pies a  spacious  and  attractive  building,  in  Renais- 
sance architecture,  on  the  Mall,  between  the 
Capitol  and  the  Washington  Monument,  and  is 
surrounded  by  rich  gardens,  beautiful  flower-beds, 
Italian  terraces,  experimental  grounds,  arboretums 
and  plant-houses.  The  museum  and  libraries  con- 
tain vast  collections.  There  are  400  employees, 
devoted  to  forestry,  ornithology,  pomology,  seeds 
and  other  objects,  with  a  botanist,  chemist,  en- 
tomologist, microscopist,  statistician,  and  other  officials. 

The  Department  of  Justice  arose  in  1870,  and  occupies  a  building  near  the  Treasury, 
with  nearly  2,000  persons  in  the  service.  The  Attorney-General,  its  head,  is  the  chief  law- 
officer  of  the  Government,  and  has  been  a  Cabinet  officer  since  1 789. 

The  Department  of  Labor  (taking  the  place  of  the  Bureau  of  Labor,  organized  in  1885) 
was  constituted  in  1888,  to  acquire  and  diffuse  information  about  labor,  capital,  earnings, 
and  the  means  of  promoting  the  material,  social,  intellectual  and  moral  prosperity  of  the 
working  classes.  Its  head  is  Carroll  D.  Wright. 

The  White  House,  or  Executive  Mansion,  stands  between  the  Treasury  and  State  Depart- 
ments, surrounded  by  emerald  lawns  and  noble  old  trees,  and  with  views  of  the  Potomac 
and  the  Virginian  hills.  It  was  built  in  1792-1800,  on  the  model  of  the  Duke  of  Leinster's 
mansion  at  Dublin,  and  contains  many  beautiful 
rooms  and  works  of  art. 

The  U.-S.  Coast  Survey,  a  bureau  of  the  Treas- 
ury Department,  dates  from  1807,  and  occupies  a 
granite  building  near  the  Capitol.  Here  are  kept  the 
Standards  of  Weights  and  Measures  for  the  States. 
The  Coast  Survey  was  "suggested  by  Jefferson, 
begun  by  Gallatin,  organized  by  Hassler,  and  per- 
fected by  Bache,  and  is  recognized  by  every  learned 
body  in  the  world." 

The  Bureau  of  Engraving  and  Printing,  with  its 
1,200  work-people,  prepares  all  the  paper  money  and 
bonds  of  the  United  States,  in  a  building  near  the 
Washington  Monument.  The  Government  Printing-Office  and  Bindery  is  the  largest  in  the 
world,  and  has  turned  out  in  a  single  year  200,000  pages  of  composition,  in  over  1,500,000 
volumes.  Many  of  these  books  have  become  famous  for  the  perfection  of  their  manufacture, 
as  well  as  for  their  other  merits.  The  office  employs  2,700  persons,  and  pays  out  about 
$3,000,000  a  year. 

The  Smithsonian  Institution  is  a  noble  and  picturesque  Norman  structure  of  red  sand- 
stone, many-towered  and  rambling,  with  cloisters,  battlements  and  loopholes,  and  sur- 
rounded by  the  beautiful  Mall,  which  was  laid  out  by  A.  J.  Downing.  A  fund  of  $515,619 
was  bequeathed  in  1828,  by  James  Smithson,  an  English  scientist,  to  the  United  States,  to 


BUREAU  OF  ENGRAVING  AND  PRINTING. 


THE  DISTRICT  OF  COLUMBIA. 


159 


NEW    NAVAL   OBSERVATORY. 


found  "an  establishment  for  the  increase  and  diffusion  of  knowledge  among  men."  The 
building  was  erected  in  1847-66;  and  the  Smithsonian  fund  in  the  United- States  Treasury 
is  $703,000.  The  interest  of  this  fund  is  applied  to  original  scientific  research,  the  publica- 
tion of  "Contributions  to  Knowledge,"  in  quarto  form,  of  "Miscellaneous  Collections" 
and  "Annual  Reports"  in  octavo,  the  promotion  of  explorations  and  collections  in  unknown 
parts  of  the  globe,  the  free  transmission  of  scientific  and  literary  works  of  societies  and 
individuals  from  the  United  States  to  all  parts  of  the  world,  and  the  return  in  exchange 
of  similar  articles. 

It  has  been  entrusted  by  the  Congress  of  the  United  States  with  the  management  of 
several  important,  and  constantly  growing  establishments,  viz.:  the  "National  Museum," 
the  "Bureau  of  Ethnology,"  the  " Bureau  of  International  Exchanges,"  and  the  "National 
Zoological  Park  "  in  Washington  City. 

It  is  governed  by  a  Board  of  Regents,  consisting  of  the  Vice-President  and  Chief  Justice 
of  the  United  States,  and  twelve  other  members  appointed  by  Congress  : 
_    =  three  Senators,  three  members  of  the  House,  four  citizens  from  different 

States,   and  two  citizens  of  Washington.     The   President  of  the  United 
States  is  ex-officio  President  of  the  Institution ;  the  Chief  Justice  is  the 
Chancellor.     The  executive  officer  is  a  secretary  selected 
by  the  Regents,  the  present  incumbent  being  Samuel  P. 
Langley,  the  celebrated  astronomer. 

The  National  Museum  is  supported  by  annual  appro- 
priations made  by  Congress.  Long  before  the  Smith- 
sonian Institution  had  commenced  active  operations,  a 
society  had  been  formed  under  the  patronage  of  the 
Government  for  the  purpose  of  organizing  a  National 
Museum.  The  collections  made  by  the  early  Government  expeditions  were  placed  in  the 
custody  of  the  Smithsonian  Institution,  and  these,  together  with  others  which  had  found  a 
temporary  shelter  in  the  Patent  Office,  were  in  1858  merged  into  the  National  collection. 
From  this  time  the  name  of  National  Museum  was  conferred  upon  all  the  collections  under 
the  control  of  the  Smithsonian  Institution.  In  1879  an  appropriation  was  made  by  Con- 
gress for  a  separate  museum  building.  This  structure,  covering  two  and  a  half  acres  of 
ground,  and  lying  east  of  the  Smithsonian  building,  was  ready  for  occupancy  in  1881. 
There  are  in  the  museum  sixteen  exhibition  halls  and  120  rooms,  which  are  used  as  offices 
and  laboratories  by  the  scientific,  and  administrative  departments.  There  are  nearly 
3,000,000  specimens  in  the  collections  of  the  anthropological,  zoological,  botanical  and  geo- 
logical departments.  The  collection  of  historical  relics  contains  many  objects  of  interest 
connected  with  the  history  of  Washington,  Franklin,  Jefferson,  Jackson,  Lincoln,  Grant 
and  other  distinguished  American  statesmen  and  officers  of  the  Army  and  Navy.  The 
valuable  collection  of  Indian  paintings  by  George  Catlin  is  also  on  exhibition.  The  Museum 
is  now  visited  annually  by  about  300,000  persons.  Since  the  building  was  completed,  in 
1 88 1,  nearly  2,500,000  people  have  been  regis- 
tered by  the  door-keepers.  The  collections  of 
antiquities,  birds  and  shells  are  exhibited  in  the 
Smithsonian  building. 

The  Army  Medical  Museum,  which  formerly 
occupied  the  old  Ford  Theatre,  in  which  President 
Lincoln  was  assassinated,  and  is  now  in  its  new 
building,  near  the  National  Museum,  contains 
22,000  specimens,  surgical,  medical,  microscop- 
ical, anatomical  and  miscellaneous.  It  is  the  larg- 
est and  best  collection  of  the  kind  in  the  world, 
and  is  frequented  by  many  thousands  of  students.  SMITHSONIAN  INSTITUTION 


160  KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 

The  Surgeon-General's  valuable  Library  in  this  building  contains  100,000  books  and  150,000 
pamphlets.  The  Pension  Building,  covering  two  acres,  is  an  enormous  brick  edifice,  in  the 
style  of  an  Italian  palace,  surrounding  a  court,  whose  glass  roof  is  supported  by  eight  lofty 
pillars.  The  U.-S.  Naval  Observatory,  on  Georgetown  Heights,  has  a  group  of  nine  modern 
classic  buildings,  designed  by  Richard  M.  Hunt,  and  is  fully  equipped  with  great  telescopes. 
Warner  &  Swasey,  of  Cleveland  (Ohio),  designed  and  built  the  45-foot  and  26^-foot  steel 
domes.  The  Congressional  Library  Building  is  now  under  construction,  to  be  finished  in 
1895,  $6,500,000  having  been  appropriated  for  it.  The  material  is  white  New-Hampshire 
granite,  and  the  courts  are  faced  with  ivory-white  enamelled  brick.  The  building  is  two 
thirds  of  the  size  of  the  Capitol,  and  the  finest  for  the  purpose  in  the  world. 

The  Corcoran  Gallery  of  Art,  founded  and  richly  endowed  by  the  late  W.  W.  Cor- 
coran, a  banker  of  Washington,  contains  one  of  the  finest  collections  of  pictures  and  statu- 
ary in  America,  including  works  by  the  old  masters  and  modern  European  painters,  and 
many  specimens  of  our  own  art,  by  Leutze,  Sully,  Huntingdon  and  other  American 
masters.  It  was  opened  to  the  public  in  1874,  and  occupies  a  handsome  building  opposite 
the  War  Department. 

The  Government  Botanical  Garden,  at  the  foot  of  Capitol  Hill,  covers  ten  acres  with  its 
conservatories  and  gardens,  enriched  with  a  great  variety  of  native  flora  and  rare  exotics. 

The  U.-S.  Navy  Yard  was  acquired  in  1799,  and  the  Wasp,  Argus,  Potomac,  St.  Louis, 
Brandywine,  Minnesota  and  other  famous  ships  first  entered  the  water  here.  It  covers  27 
acres,  along  the  Anacostia  River,  about  a  mile  from  the  Capitol ;  and  has  spacious  barracks 
and  workshops,  and  many  trophies.  The  great  National  cannon-foundry  is  at  the  Wash- 
ington Navy  Yard,  and  has  the  finest  and  most  improved  machinery  for  its  work.  It  was 
established  during  Cleveland's  administration,  and  has  turned  out  most  of  the  armaments 
of  the  new  cruisers  and  gun-boats.  The  Marine  Barracks,  near  the  Navy  Yard,  are  the 
headquarters  of  the  Marine  Corps,  famous  for  valiant  deeds  in  Tripoli  and  Mexico,  Corea, 
and  the  Pacific  Islands,  and  elsewhere.  The  U.-S.  Arsenal  occupies  45  acres  at  the  south- 
ern point  of  the  city,  between  the  Potomac  and  Anacostia  rivers,  with  pleasant  grounds, 
barracks,  magazines,  military  stores,  and  cannon  captured  from  the  enemies  of  the  Repub- 
lic. The  Arsenal  dates  from  1803,  and  was  the  depot  of  ordnance  supplies  for  the  Army 
of  the  Potomac.  The  Soldiers'  Home  was  founded  in  1851,  with  the  tribute-money  levied 
on  the  city  of  Mexico  by  Gen.  Scott,  and  is  maintained  by  a  monthly  tax  of  twelve  cents 
on  each  soldier  of  the  regular  army,  for  whose  use  it  is  reserved.  It  has  several  handsome 
marble  buildings,  in  a  park  of  500  acres,  three  miles  north  of  the  Capitol,  and  supports 
500  disabled  veterans.  The  grounds  contain  Launt  Thompson's  bronze  statue  of  General 
Scott.  This  locality  was  the  favorite  summer-home  of  Presidents  Pierce,  Buchanan  and 
Lincoln. 

The  Congressional  Cemetery,  near  the  Anacostia,  contains  the  graves  of  many  distin- 
guished statesmen  and  officers.  There  is  a  National  Cemetery,  near  the  ancient  Rock- 
Creek  Church  and  the  Soldiers'  Home,  with  over  6,000  graves.  In  Oak-Hill  Cemetery  is 
the  grave  of  John  Howard  Payne,  the  author  of  Home,  Sweet  Home,  with  its  beautiful 
classic  monument  and  portrait-bust.  Here  also  are  the  graves  of  General  Reno,  Secretary 
Stanton  and  other  notables. 

The  Washington  Monument,  designed  by  Robert  Mills,  and  built  in  the  periods  1848- 
54  and  1880-4  (at  a  cost  of  $1,200,000),  is  a  majestic  white  obelisk  555  feet  high,  above 
the  ground,  and  592  feet  above  the  foundations,  the  loftiest  piece  of  masonry  in  the  world, 
surpassing  even  the  Great  Pyramid,  Cologne  and  Antwerp  Cathedrals,  and  St.  Peter's.  The 
pyramidal  crest  is  crowned  by  a  pointed  block  of  shining  alumnium.  The  monument 
stands  in  a  park  of  45  acres,  near  the  shore  of  the  Potomac  River,  and  on  the  Mall  leading 
from  the  Capitol ;  and  the  eight  windows  near  the  top  command  beautiful  views  of  the 
city,  the  winding  and  silvery  Potomac,  and  the  distant  Blue  Ridge.  The  outside  is  of 
crystal  Maryland  marble  ;  and  the  base  is  55  feet  square,  with  walls  15  feet  thick.  The 


THE  DISTRICT  OF   COLUMBIA. 


161 


WASHINGTON  :     SOME    PUBLIC   ART   WORK. 


i62 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 


GARFIELD    MONUMENT. 


interior  is  lighted  by  electricity,  and   traversed  by  a  stairway  of  800  steps,  and  an  elevator 
which  rises  to  the  top  in  seven  minutes. 

The  Lafayette  Monument  was  executed  by  Falguiere  and  Mercie,  eminent  Parisian 
sculptors,  in  1888-90,  and  shows  a  colossal  bronze  Lafayette,  in  a  Continental  uniform, 
and  around  the  marble  base  bronze  statues  of  Rochambeau  and  Du- 
portail,  De  Grasse  and  D'Estaing,  soldiers  of  the  French  army  and 
fleet  which  aided  in  freeing  this  Republic.  There  is  also  a  symbolic 
statue  of  America.  The  Naval  Monument,  or  Monument  of  Peace, 
at  the  foot  of  Capitol  Hill,  was  made  in  Rome,  of  Carrara  marble, 
and  mainly  paid  for  by  subscriptions  from  the  Navy.  It  is  a  group 
of  beautiful  emblematic  statues,  designed  by  Franklin  Simmons,  and 
erected  in  1877.  East  of  the  Capitol  is  the  bronze  group  representing 
Emancipation,  with  Abraham  Lincoln  holding  the  Proclamation  over  a 
negro  whose  shackles  are  broken.  It  was  designed  by  Thomas  Ball, 
and  the  freed  colored  people  paid  for  the  entire  work.  Another  statue  of  Lincoln  stands  in 
front  of  the  District  Court  House. 

The  equestrian  statue  of  General  Jackson,  on  Lafayette  Square,  was  made  by  Clark 
Mills,  from  brass  cannon  captured  by  the  hero  of  New  Orleans,  and  received  its  dedication 
in  1853,  with  an  oration  by  Douglas.  The  colossal  equestrian  statue  of  Lieut. -General 
Scott  was  made  by  H.  K.  Brown,  from  cannon  taken  by  its  subject  in  the  Mexican 

War.  Another  equestrian  statue,  on  Wash- 
ington Circle,  represents  General  Washing- 
ton at  the  Battle  of  Princeton.  Capitol  Hill 
has  an  equestrian  statue  of  General  Nathan- 
iel Greene,  of  the  Continental  army,  dedi- 
cated in  1877.  The  Society  of  the  Army  of 
the  Tennessee  erected  in  1876  Rebisso's  col- 
ossal equestrian  statue  of  General  McPher- 
son,  made  from  the  bronze  of  war-worn  cannon.  The  noble  equestrian  statue  of  General 
Geo.  H.  Thomas  (by  J.  Q.  A.  Ward)  was  erected  in  1879  ^7  tne  Society  of  the  Army  of  the 
Cumberland.  East  of  the  Capitol  is  Greenough's  colossal  Carrara-marble  statue  of  Wash- 
ington, received  in  1840;  and  on  the  west  stands  Story's  bronze  statue  of  Chief- Justice 
John  Marshall,  unveiled  in  1884.  Among  the  other  statues  in  Washington  are  those  of 
Admiral  Dupont  (by  Launt  Thompson),  a  bronze  figure  of  heroic  proportions,  unveiled  in 
1884  ;  Vinnie  Ream  Hoxie's  bronze  figure  of  Admiral  Farragut,  made  from  the  metal  of  the 
propeller  of  his  famous  flagship  Hartford,  and  unveiled  in  1881  ;  Plassman's  marble  statue 
of  Benjamin  Franklin  ;  Bailey's  bronze  figure  of  Gen.  Rawlins,  Grant's  chief  of  staff  ; 
Story's  bronze  statue  of  Prof.  Henry,  near  the  Smithsonian  Institution  ;  the  colossal  bronze 
statue  of  Martin  Luther,  erected  by  the  Lutherans  of  America  ;  and  President  Garfield's 
statue,  on  Maryland  Avenue.  Franklin's  statue  was  a  gift  of  Stilson  Hutchins. 

The  environs  of  Washington  are  full  of  interest,  and  afford  a  variety  of  pleasant  excursions. 
Steamboats  run  down  the  Potomac, 
daily,  to  Mount  Vernon,  the  home 
and  burial-place  of  George  Washing- 
ton, giving  opportunity  for  a  pilgrim- 
age which  should  be  taken  by  every 
patriotic  American.  The  quaint  old 
Virginian  city  of  Alexandria,  connect- 
ed by  ferry-steamers  with  Washing- 
ton, preserves  the  church  in  which 
the  Father  of  his  Country  used  to 
worship,  after  the  manner  of  the  Epis-  MEDICAL  LIBRARY  AND  MUSEUM,  u.-s.  ARMY. 


NATIONAL  MUSEUM. 


THE  DISTRICT  OF   COLUMBIA. 


CORCORAN    ART    GALLERY. 


copalians.     Across  the  river  from  Washington,  the  yellow  front  of  the  Arlington  mansion 

gleams  out  from  the  dark  trees  of  Arlington  Heights.     This  house  was  built  in  1802  by 

G.  W.  P.  Custis,  Mrs.  Washington's  grandson,  and  George  Washington's  adopted  son, 
whose  daughter  married  Robert  E.  Lee.  Here  Lee  dwelt 
until  he  threw  in  his  lot  with  the  Southern  States.  The 
deserted  estate  became  a  place  of  National  camps  and  forts, 
and  now  belongs  to  the  Government,  and  has  been  occupied 
as  a  National  Cemetery,  where  over  16,000  soldiers  of  the 
Federal  armies  during  the  late  civil  war  remain  in  "The 
bivouac  of  the  dead." 

Remnants  of  old  fortifications  may  be  found  on  these  mem- 

orable Virginian  hills  ;  and  the  roads  leading  thence  to  Falls  Church  and  Annandale,  Fair- 

fax and  Manassas,  recall  the  marches  of  McDowell  and  McClellan,  Hooker  and  Burnside, 

Meacle  and  Grant.     In  1861  Washington  was  practically  only  a  second-rate  Maryland  town, 

with  streets  of  abysmal  mud,  littered  here  and  there  by  half-finished  public  buildings.     It 

lay  between   two  great  slave  States,   perplexed   Maryland 

and  embattled  Virginia,  and  the  army  considered  it  as  not 

worth  saving,   for  itself,  but  very  much  worth  saving  on 

account    of  what    it    represented,    to    wit,    the    throne  of 

American  Government,  and  the  metropolis  of  free  institu- 

tions and  Republican  ideas  in  the  world. 

In  those  dark  days,  even  the  Royal  Foundry  at  Munich 

refused  to  make  the  bronze  doors  for  the  U.-S.   Senate, 

unless  the  cost  was  prepaid.     This  demand  was  met  by 

a  spirited  order  from  Washington  to  ship  the  model  of  the 

doors  to  America;  and  at  Chicopee  (Mass.),   the   metal- 

founding  was  admirably   done,    showing,   in   imperishable 

bronze,  the  heroic  deeds  of  George  Washington. 

Washington  is  now  one  of  the  most  desirable  residence- 

cities  in  the  world,  with  a  blameless  civic  administration,  a 

bland  climate,  beautiful  scenery  and  architecture,  and  noble 

historic  associations.     The  chief   foreign  diplomats  have 

their  residences  here,  and  many  other  foreigners.     The  lead- 

ing American  statesmen,  authors,  scientific  men  and  society 

people  are  found  on  Pennsylvania  Avenue,  at  some  time 

during  the  year  ;  and  the  number  of  distinguished  people 

who   become   permanent    residents    of    the    Federal   City 

grows  larger  every  decade. 

The  quaint  old  building  on  the  corner  of  Fifteenth   Street  and   Pennsylvania  Avenue, 

formerly  the  Washington  Branch  of  the  Bank  of  the  United  States,  has  been  occupied  since 
1845  by  a  private  banking  firm  of  high  reputation  and  credit. 
Nearly  a  century  ago,  when  the  neighboring  town  of  George- 
town was  a  commercial  point  of  some  importance,  Elisha  Riggs 
was  a  prosperous  merchant  in  that  place,  having  as  his  book- 
keeper the  afterwards-famous  George  Peabody.  George  Wash- 
ington Riggs,  eldest  son  of  Elisha  Riggs,  formed  a  co-partner- 
ship in  1840  with  W.  W.  Corcoran,  of  Georgetown;  and  the 
firm  (Corcoran  &  Riggs)  rapidly  obtained  an  important  position 
in  the  financial  world,  and  successfully  negotiated  the  Mexican 

War  Loans  for  the   Government.      Mr.    Corcoran  retired  from  active  business   in    1854, 

since  which  date  the  firm  has  used  its  present  title,  Riggs  &  Co.     George  W.  Riggs  died  as 

head  of  the  house  in  1881  ;  and  the  present  partners  are  Elisha  Francis  Riggs  (son  of  George 


BRONZE  DOOR  OF  THE  SENATE. 


WASHINGTON:    RIGGS  &  co. 's  BANK. 


i64 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


WASHINGTON  : 


^RLINGTON    HOTEL. 


W.  Riggs),  Charles  C.  Glover,  Thomas  Hyde  and 
James  M.  Johnston.  This  old  and  renowned  house 
conducts  a  very  large  business  and  retains  its  con- 
servative reputation  at  home  and  abroad. 

The  Arlington  Hotel  was  opened  in  1869,  on  the 
sites  of  the  homes  of  Marcy  and  Cass,  secretaries 
of  State  under  Pierce  and  Buchanan,  and  of  Reverdy 
Johnson  and  Charles  Sumner.  Among  its  guests 
have  been  Presidents  Grant  and  Arthur,  Cleveland 
and  Harrison,  the  Emperor  Dom  Pedro  of  Brazil, 
the  Grand  Duke  Alexis,  Prince  Napoleon,  the 
Duke  of  Orleans,  the  Count  of  Paris,  King  Kalak- 
aua  and  Queen  Kapiolani,  President  Diaz  of  Mexico, 
President  Barrios  of  Guatemala,  General  Boulanger, 
Patti,  Adelaide  Neilson  and  hundreds  of  other  notables,  and  embassies  from  many  foreign 
powers.  The  hotel,  with  its  new  extension,  stretches  from  Lafayette  Square  (on  which  the 
White  House  fronts)  to  McPherson  Square,  and  is  in  every  re- 
spect sumptuous.  The  beautiful  and  spacious  parlors,  in  Louis 
Quartorze  and  other  delicate  styles  of  decoration,  have  been  the 
scene  of  many  famous  receptions.  Of  the  hotels  at  Washington, 
the  Arlington  is  not  only  the  largest  of  those  strictly  first-class, 
but  it  is  foremost  in  all  its  appointments  and  management.  Ever 
since  1870  its  proprietor  has  been  T.  A.  Roessle. 

Washington  has  four  daily  newspapers,  thirty-four  weeklies, 
eighteen  monthlies  and  two  quarterlies.  Here,  too,  are  the  all- 
important  Washington  offices  for  correspondents  of  all  the  great 
newspapers  of  the  world  ;  some  occupying  commodious  quarters, 
and  in  one  case,  The  Baltimore  Sun,  having  a  home  in  its  own 
elegant  and  conspicuous  eight-story  stone-front  building. 

The  foremost  chronicler  and  helper  of  the  growth  of  modern 
Washington  has  been  The  Evening  Star  newspaper,  which 
has  the  greatest  local  circulation  of  any  American  journal, 
in  proportion  to  the  population  of  the  city  in  which  it  is  pub- 
lished. This  remarkable  supremacy  is  due  to  the  fact  that  the  key-note  struck  by  its  first 
issues,  away  back  in  1852,  has  always  been  followed,  in  the  presentation  of  a  clean,  enterpris- 
ing and  bright  independent  paper,  especially  devoted  to  the  interests  of  Washington  and  the 
District  of  Columbia,  with  all  the  latest  local  news  and  American  and  foreign  reports,  by  As- 
sociated and  United  Press  as  well  as  special  dis- 
patches. The  daily  circulation  of  The  Star  exceeds 
32,000  copies,  most  of  which  reach  the  households 
of  the  city,  a  fact  which  illustrates,  more  forcibly 
than  any  words  that  could  be  used,  the  popular  es- 
teem in  which  the  paper  is  held.  For  nearly  a 
quarter  of  a  century  the  management  of  The  Star 
has  been  in  its  present  hands,  —  Crosby  S.  Noyes 
ably  editing  it,  and  S.  H.  Kauffmann,  as  president 
of  the  company,  conducting  its  general  business  af- 
fairs. The  Star  Buildings  cover  a  large  area  on  one 
of  the  most  prominent  and  valuable  corners  in  the 
city,  and  contain  an  equipment  in  every  depart- 
ment not  excelled  by  that  of  any  afternoon  newspa- 

THE   EVENING   STAR   BUILDING.  P6r  in  the 


BALTIMORE  SUN  BUILDING. 


HISTORY. 

Florida  was  the  first  re- 
gion of  North  America  to 
be  colonized  by  Europeans. 
It  was  discovered  and  ex- 
plored in  1513,  by  Juan 
Ponce  de  Leon,  landing  at 
a  bay  just  north  of  St.  Au- 
gustine, and  proclaiming 
the  sovereignty  of  Spain. 
Fourteen  years  later  Panfilo  de  Narvaez  marched  inland 
from  Apalachee  Bay,  with  300  Spaniards,  in  a  futile  and 
fatal  attempt  to  conquer  and  colonize  the  country.  All 
these  adventurers  perished,  except  Cabeza  de  Vaca  and 
three  others,  who  discovered  and  crossed  the  Mississippi, 
and  reached  the  Spanish  towns  of  Mexico.  The  Adelantado 
Hernando  de  Soto  landed  near  Tampa,  in  1539,  with  a 
noble  array  of  armor-clad  knights  and  men-at-arms,  and 
marched  across  West  Florida,  and  away  among  the  pagan 
tribes  beyond.  In  1564  Laudonniere  and  his  French 
Huguenots  built  Fort  Caroline,  on  the  St. -John's  River, 
but  were  surprised  by  a  Spanish  fleet  under  Menendez,  and 
massacred,  "Not  as  Frenchmen,  but  as  Lutherans,"  as  the 
inscription  left  on  their  bodies  grimly  attested.  In  1568, 
De  Gourgues's  expedition  captured  the  fort  on  the  St. 
John's,  and  hung  the  garrison,  "Not  as  Spaniards,  but  as 
traitors,  thieves  and  murderers." 

St.  Augustine  was  founded  and  named  by  the  pitiless 
Menendez,  in  1565.  Twenty-one  years  later  Sir  Francis 
Drake  utterly  destroyed  the  town;  and  in  1665  the  bucca- 
neers plundered  it.  Gov.  Moore  led  a  South-Carolinian 
army  against  St.  Augustine  in  1 702,  and  was  beaten  off  from 
the  fort.  Oglethorpe  vainly  besieged  the  place  for  38  days, 
in  1740,  with  1,400  Georgians  and  Carolinians,  and  rained 
shot  and  shell  upon  it  from  Anastasia  Island. 

The  settlement  of  West  Florida  began  in  1696,  when 
cola.  Florida  was  ceded  to  Great  Britain  in  1763,  in  return 
colonies,  and  many  Tories  from  the  Carolinas,  nearly  all 


STATISTICS. 

Settled  at  ....     St.  Augustine. 

Settled  in 1565 

Founded  by Spaniards. 

Admitted  to  the  United  States,  1845 
Population  in  1860,      .     .     .      140,424 

In  1870 187,748 

In  1880, 269,493 

White, 142,605 

Colored, 126,888 

American-born,     .     .     .     259,584 
Foreign-born,   ....         9,909 

Males, i36,4-44 

Females, J33.O49 

In  1890  (U.  S.  Census),    .     .     391,422 

Population  to  the  square  mile,  5 

Voting  Population  (1880),     .       61,679 

Vote  for  Harrison  (1888),         26,657 

Vote  for  Cleveland  (1888),       39,56 


Net  State  Debt  (1890), 
Assessed  Property,  . 
Area  (square  miles),  . 
U.  S.  Representatives 
Militia  (Disciplined),  . 

Counties, 

Post-offices,  .... 
Railroads  (miles),  . 


•  $153,391 
.  $77,000,000 
.  .  58,680 
(1893)  2 

.   .      1,300 

•    •  45 

.    •  894 

2,4 


Manufactures  (yearly),        $5,500,000 
Farm  Land  (in  acres),     .     .  3,300,000 

Farm-Land  Values,      .  $20,000,000 
Colleges  and  Professional  Schools, 
School  Buildings,  ....         1,800 
Average  School-Attendance,    51,000 

Newspapers, 122 

Latitude 24°30' to  31°  N. 

Longitude,      .     .  79°48/  to  87°^'  \V. 
Mean   Temperature   (St. 

Augustine), 69^° 

Mean  Temperature  (Key 

West), 76^° 

TEN  CHIEF  PLACES  AND  THEIR  POPU- 
LATIONS.    (Census  of  1890.) 

Key  West 18,080 

Jacksonville, 17,201 

Pensacola, n,75o 

Tampa, 5>532 

St.  Augustine, 4,742 

Palatka, 3,039 

Tallahassee, 2,934 

Ocala 2.904 

Orlando, 2,856 

Fernandina, 2,803 


the  Spaniards  occupied  Pensa- 
for  Cuba,  and  received  English 
of  whom  removed  to  Georgia 


i66 


KING'S  HANDBOOK   OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 


SILVER    SPRING. 


when  Don  Bernardo  de  Galvez  captured  West  Florida.  The 
country  was  ceded  back  to  Spain  (in  1783)  in  exchange  for  the 
Bahamas.  The  Apalachicola  River  became  the  boundary  be- 
tween the  provinces  of  East  and  West  Florida.  The  people  of  the 
Gulf  States  were  ill-pleased  at  the  continuance  of  a  European 
power  in  Florida,  and  Gen.  Jackson  seized  Pensacola,  in  1814,  and 
four  years  later  occupied  both  Pensacola  and  St.  Augustine.  On 
both  occasions  the  Government  recalled  its  too  enthusiastic  officers, 
and  the  Spanish  system  was  restored.  In  1819  the  King  of  Spain 
reluctantly  ceded  Florida  to  the  United  States,  and  Andrew  Jackson  became  its  Governor. 
There  were  then  but  600  whites  in  Florida,  dwelling  mainly  in  Pensacola  and  St.  Augus- 
tine, the  rest  of  the  country  being  occupied  by  the  Seminoles,  numbering  about  4,000, 
with  800  slaves.  The  aboriginal  Floridians  were  the  Miccosukee  Indians.  After  1750, 
migrating  bands  of  Creeks  from  Alabama  occupied  Alachua  and  Tallahassee,  and  swallowed 
up  the  original  tribes.  In  1835  began  the  Seminole  War,  which  lasted  for  seven  years,  and 
cost  $20,000,000  and  the  lives  of  1,500  American  soldiers.  Over  30,000  volunteers  were 
called  out  by  the  United- States  Government,  including  commands  even  from  New  York 
and  Missouri.  Every  settlement  south  of  St.  Augustine  was  blotted  out.  In  1835  the  In- 
dians massacred  Maj.  Dade  and  his  command  of  109  men,  and  were  beaten  by  Gen. 
Clinch,  In  1837  Zachary  Taylor  and  1,100  troops  defeated  380  Indians  in  a  hard  battle  at 
Lake  Okeechobee,  losing  138  men.  The  savages,  under  the  great  chief  Osceola,  were  driven 
southward,  to  Suwanee,  to  Orange  Lake,  and  across  the  Everglades,  until  the  navy  joined 


Florida  Keys.     Most  of  the 

Mississippi  in  1842  and  1858, 

tory  ;  but  300  of  them  cling  to 

glades,  with  their  chief  village 

Pierce,  on  Indian  River. 

civil  war,    Florida   promptly 

tempting  to  leave  the  Union, 

tional    property   within    her 

of  Fort  Pickens,  near  Pensa- 

Taylor,  on  the  Keys,  were 


in  the  closing  campaigns  among  the 
Seminoles  were  removed  beyond  the 
and  now  dwell  in  the  Indian  Terri- 
their  old  homes  among  the  Ever- 
at  Tallafajassa,  15  miles  from  Fort 

At  the   outbreak  of  the  late 
joined  the  Southern  States  in  at- 
seizing   all    the    unprotected  Na- 
borders.     The  strong  defences 
cola,  and  Forts  Jefferson  and 
securely  held  by  their  Federal 
garrisons ;  and  the  vessels  of 
the  United-States  navy  kept 
command  of  most  of    the 
coast.     Early  in  1864  Gen. 
Seymour  occupied  Jackson- 
ville with   7,000  Federal  troops,   and  advanced 
westward  nearly  to  Lake  City.     At  Ocean  Pond, 
on  the   Olustee,   his  army  was  thrown  in  detail 
against  a  strongly  posted  Confederate  force,  and 
defeated,  losing  1,861  men  out  of  5,500  engaged, 
Out  of  an  equal  force,  the  Southern  army  lost  940. 
After  this  appalling  carnage  the  National  troops 
retreated  to  Jacksonville,  which  remained  secure  under  the  Federal  control. 

The  terrible  yellow-fever  pestilence  of  1888  was  the  result  of  the  carelessness  of  the 
local  government,  which  allowed  the  disease  to  spread  out  from  Tampa.  It  held  high 
carnival  at  Jacksonville,  with  4,711  cases,  of  whom  412  died;  and  also  at  Fernandina. 
Gainesville  and  other  places.  A  State  Board  of  Health  was  created  in  1889,  and  will  be 
able  to  act  with  intelligence  and  authority  in  future  emergencies,  so  that  it  will  be  difficult 
for  epidemics  to  make  such  ravages  again. 


FLORIDA    FRUITS. 


THE  STA  TE  OF  FLORIDA. 


167 

The  Name  of  the  State  was  given  by  its  dis- 
coverer, Ponce  de  Leon,  who  first  saw  the  land  on 
Easter  Sunday,  or,  as  the  Spaniards  have  it,  Pascua 
Florida,  "The  Flowery  Festival."  The  name 
therefore  means  "The  Flowery,"  or  "The  Land  of 
Flowers."  Florida  is  called  THE  EVERGLADE 
STATE,  from  one  of  its  natural  features.  The  peo- 
ple used  to  be  nicknamed  "Fly-up-the-Creeks." 

The  Arms  of   Florida  show  an  Indian  upon  a 
TAMPA  BAY.  bank,  scattering  flowers;    the  sun  sinking  or  rising 

behind  distant  hills ;  a  river  in  the  middle  ground,  bearing  a  side-wheel  steamboat ;  and  a 
great  cocoanut  tree.     The  motto  is  :  IN  GOD  WE  TRUST. 

The  Governors  of  Florida  have  been  :  Territorial:  Andrew  Jackson,  1821-2;  Wm.  P. 
Duval,  1822-34;  John  H.  Eaton,  1834-6;  Richard  K.  Call,  1836-9  and  1841-4;  Robert 
R.  Reid,  1839-41  ;  John  Branch,  1844-5.  State  :  Wm.  D.  Moseley,  1845-9  >  Thomas  Brown, 
1849-53;  James  E.  Broome,  1853-57;  Madison  S.  Perry,  1857-61;  John  Milton,  1861-5; 
A.  K.  Allison  (acting),  1865;  Wm.  Marvin  (provisional),  1865-6;  David  S.  Walker,  Sr., 
1866-9;  Harrison  Reed,  1869-73;  Ossian  B.  Hart,  1873-4;  Marcellus  L.  Stearns,  1874-7; 
George  F.  Drew,  1877-81;  Wm.  D.  Bloxham,  1881-5;  Edward  A.  Perry,  1885-9;  and 
Francis  P.  Fleming,  1889-93. 

Geography. —  East  Florida  includes  the  peninsula,  westward  to  the  Suwanee  River; 
Middle  Florida  extends  from  the  Suwanee  to  the 
Apalachicola ;  and  West  Florida  reaches  thence 
to  the  Perdido  River.  Another  division  is  North 
Florida,  from  30°  to  the  northern  line,  45  miles 
wide ;  Central  (or  semi-tropical)  Florida,  a  land 
of  savannas  and  hammocks,  lakes  and  rivers  ;  and 
South  (or  sub-tropical)  Florida,  where  there  is 
very  slight  difference  in  the  temperature,  summer 
and  winter.  The  distance  from  the  northern  line 
to  the  remotest  Key  is  450  miles,  and  the  average 
width  of  the  peninsula  is  95  miles.  The  distance 
from  the  Atlantic  to  the  western  line  is  400  miles. 
"It  is  700  miles  from  the  Perdido  River  to  Cape  Sable.  Imaginative  geographers  find  in 
Florida  the  shape  of  an  inverted  boot,  with  the  heel  on  the  St.  Mary's  River  and  the  toe  at 
Pensacola. 

The  central  highlands  contain  many  pleasant  modern  villages,  in  a  rolling  country  cov- 
ered with  a  majestic  growth  of  pines,  and  diversified  by  hundreds  of  crystalline  lakes. 
Among  the  famous  resorts  in  this  region  are  Altamonte  Springs,  on  Lake  Orienta ;  the 
Seminole  Hotel,  among  the  orange-groves  of  Winter  Park ;  Ocala,  and  Lake  Weir.  The 
mineral  waters  of  the  Ponce-de-Leon,  Green-Cove,  White  Sulphur,  Suwannee,  Newport 
and  other  springs  have  attracted  much  attention,  and  are  visited  by  many  health-seekers. 
The  1,200  miles  of  Florida's  coast  (472  miles  on  the  Atlantic,  the  rest  on  the  Gulf)  in- 
cludes among  its  chief  harbors  Fernandina, 
Jacksonville,  St.  Augustine,  Daytona,  and 
Port  Orange,  on  the  Atlantic  ;  and  Key  West, 
Oyster  Bay,  Punta  Rassa,  Charlotte  Harbor, 
Tampa,  Cedar  Keys,  Carabelle,  St.  Mark's, 
Apalachicola  and  Pensacola  on  the  Gulf.  The 
Atlantic  coast  is  fronted  with  narrow  sandy 
islands,  enclosing  far-reaching  lagoons.  The 
QE  :  SCENE  ON  ,ND,AN  R.vER.  ^road  Straits  of  Florida  sweep  around  between 


SUWANEE    RIVER. 


l68  KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 

the  peninsula  and  Cuba  and  the  Bahama  Banks,  with  the  deep-blue  Gulf  Stream  filling 
them  from  shore  to  shore,  30  miles  wide,  2,ooo  feet  deep,  and  rushing  eastward  and  north- 
ward at  a  rate  of  five  miles  an  hour,  at  a  temperature  of  84°. 

There  are  myriads  of  islands  around  Florida,  including  those  in  the  Everglades,  the 
Ten  Thousand  Islands,  and  the  famous  Florida  Keys  (Cayes),  extending  200  miles  south- 
westward  from  Cape  Florida  to  the  Dry  Tortugas.  Many  of  the  Keys  are  uninhabited  ;  and 
nearly  all  of  them  are  infested  by  enormous  swarms  of  mosquitoes.  A  navigable  channel 
separates  the  sand-flats  upon  which  the  Keys  rise  from  the  long  and  dangerous  chain  of  the 
Florida  Reefs.  The  Keys  are  only  a  few  feet  above  the  tide ;  and  bear  mangrove,  mastic, 
sweet  bay,  gumbo-limbo,  palmetto,  pine,  and  other  trees,  among  their  sands  and  rocks. 
Cocoanuts,  hemp,  and  pineapples  grow  here  with  little  attention.  Largo  is  the  greatest  of 
the  islands,  and  encloses  broad  bays  and  lagoons.  Here,  and  at  Elliott's  and  the  Mate- 
cumbe  and  Plantation  Keys,  600  truck-farmers  raise  tomatoes,  cucumbers,  bananas  and 
other  fruits  for  the  early  market,  sending  50,000  crates  by  the  Mallory  Line  to  New  York 
every  season.  Since  1880,  600,000  cocoanut-trees  have  been  planted  on  and  near  the  Keys, 
with  wonderful  success,  and  their  product  is  shipped  north  in  increasing  volume.  They  re- 
quire salt  air,  and  will  not  endure  frosts.  One  hundred  trees  grow  on  an  acre,  bearing 
fruit  in  from  seven  to  ten  years.  During  the  season  of  pineapples,  several  thousand  bar- 
rels are  shipped  from  Key  West  every  week.  They  are  of  the  red  Spanish  variety,  grow- 
ing on  dry  sandy  soil,  10,000  plants  to  the  acre,  and  bearing  the  second  year.  The  enor- 
mous development  of  the  cocoanut  and  pineapple  culture  along  the  coast  and  up  as  far  as 
the  Caloosahatch.ee  and  Lake  Worth,  and  the  rapid  advance  in  raising  dates,  guavas  and 
•^  lemons  in  South  Florida  have  been  almost  entirely  the  result  of  the  past  ten  years,  and  will 
enrich  the  Republic  by  a  variety  of  new  and  delicious  food-supplies. 

Key  West,  60  miles  from  the  main,  and  90  miles  from  Havana,  -is  the  sailors'  pronuncia- 
tion of  the  Spanish  Cayo  Hueso  (Bone  Reef),  so  named  because  the  early  explorers  found  here 
great  quantities  of  human  bones.     It  was  settled  in  1818  by  Connecticut  fishermen,  who  sold 
their  fish  in  Havana.     About 
20  years  ago  a  number  of  Cu- 
ban exiles  took  refuge  here, 
and  established  the  manufac- 
ture of  cigars,  from  Havana 
leaf.     There  are  now 
125  factories,  making 
over       125,000,000 
cigars    yearly.      Key 
West  has  a  noble  and 
well-fortified  harbor, 

^rr^.  ^;L 

ships  to  Cedar  Keys, 
Tampa,  Havana,  New 

Orleans,  Galveston  and  New  York.  It  is  the  ninth  port  of  entry  in  the  United  States ;  and 
the  only  Gulf-coast  city  never  occupied  by  the  Confederacy.  The  island  is  six  miles  by  a 
mile  and  a  half  in  area.  The  city  has  broad  streets,  ten  churches  and  a  fire-proof  Masonic 
Temple;  many  structures  of  limestone  quarried  on  the  island;  fine  public  buildings,  and 
several  lines  of  street-cars.  It  is  peculiarly  a  Spanish  colony,  with  foreign  architecture. 
The  climate  is  so  equable,  tropical  and  withal  bracing,  that  this  locality  has  become  a  sani- 
tarium for  sufferers  from  diseases  of  the  throat  and  lungs,  and  catarrhal  patients.  Snow- 
flakes  have  never  been  seen  here.  Key  West  is  66j  hours  from  New  York,  by  fast  mail,  and 
less  than  twelve  hours  from  Havana,  by  the  steamship  route.  The  southernmost  point  of 
the  United  States  is  Sand  Key,  seven  miles  south-southwest  of  Key  West,  on  the  edge  of 


THE  STA  TE  OF  FLORIDA, 


169 


HOMOSASSA    RIVER. 


the  Florida  Reefs.  Here  a  tall  brown  and  white 
light-house  beacons  the  Florida  Straits,  within 
80  miles  of  Havana. 

The  fisheries  of  Florida  are  the  largest  in  the 
South,  and  engage  1 0,000  men,  with  a  yearly 
product  of  $1,000,000.  The  sponge-fishery  is 
one  of  the  leading  industries,  and  employs  1,000 
fishermen  and  400  vessels  and  sail-boats,  built  on 
the  Keys,  and  manned  by  Bahama  negroes  ("Nas- 
sau coons").  A  sponging  vessel  has  several 
boats,  each  sculled  slowly  by  one  man,  while 
the  other,  perched  in  the  bow,  watches  the  bot- 
tom of  the  channel  for  sponges,  and  secures  them  by  a  three-pronged  iron  claw  fastened  to 
a  long  pole.  Key  West  alone  ships  nearly  $400,000  worth  of  sponges  every  year,  mainly 
to  Paris.  The  mullet-fisheries  of  West  Florida  were  famous  in  the  old  Spanish  days,  and 
now  5,000,000  pounds  a  year  are  exported  to  Cuba.  The  grouper  fisheries  are  also  very 
important  and  lucrative.  The  red  snapper  is  a  handsome,  favorite  and  appetizing  fish, 
and  2,500,000  pounds  are  sent  from  Pensacola  yearly,  largely  to  New  York.  The  pom- 
pano  is  another  valued  denizen  of  these  waters ;  and  here  also  are  found  the  king-fish, 
sheepshead,  bream,  Spanish  mackerel,  channel-bass,  blue-fish,  sea-trout,  and  oysters.  Shad 
run  in  the  rivers ;  and  outside  are  found  sharks,  cuttle-fish  and  octopuses.  The  green-turtle 
and  sea-turtle  (sometimes  weighing  1,200  pounds  each)  captured  in  nets  among  the  Keys  are 
of  great  value,  and  their  eggs  (100  to  300  in  each  nest)  are  prized  as  food.  Alligators  dwell 
in  all  the  rivers,  and  are  shot  by  thousands ;  and  on  the  lower  coast  are  found  the  manatee 
and  crocodiles.  Many  Bahama  corallers  get  an  arduous  living  by  breaking  from  the  sub- 
merged Keys,  tree,  finger,  brain,  red  and  other  varieties  of  corals,  which  are  sent  North 
and  sold  for  good  prices.  Tarpon  fishing  is  one  of  the  most  exciting  of  sports. 

Much  of  the  Atlantic  coast  is  fringed  with  long  and  narrow  islands,  like  Amelia,  on 
which  Fernandina  stands,  and  Anastasia,  opposite  St.  Augustine.  Fort-George  Island,  at 
the  mouth  of  the  St.  -John's,  is  a  beautiful  sea-fronting  winter-resort.  Indian  River,  a  salt- 
water lagoon  165  miles  long,  and  from  one  to  six  miles  wide,  and  separated  from  the  sea  by 
a  narrow  strip  of  land,  is  famous  for  its  delicious  oranges  and  pineapples.  The  southerly 
part,  from  St.  Lucie  to  Jupiter  Inlet,  is  called  Jupiter  Narrows,  or  St.  -Lucie  Sound. 

Florida  has  1,200  miles  of  river  navigation,  on  twenty  streams.  The  St. -John's  River 
is  nearly  400  miles  long,  flowing  northward  parallel  with  the  ocean  coast,  from  its  birth- 
place in  the  swamps  just  north  of  the  Everglades,  through  a  chain  of  silvery  lakes,  reach- 
ing a  width  of  a  mile  50  leagues  above  its  mouth,  and  in  its  lower  courses  broadening  to 
six  miles  across.  The  river  is  divided  into  three  sections  (i),  the  Port  of  St.  John's,  22 
miles  long,  from  the  jetties  at  the  mouth  up  to  Jacksonville,  the  avenue  of  a  large  steam- 
ship commerce;  (2)  the  St. -John's  River,  125  miles  long,  from  Jacksonville  to  Sanford 
(on  Lake  Monroe),  with  several  steamboat  lines;  and  (3),  the  Upper  St. -John's,  extend- 
ing 1 50  miles,  from  Sanford  to  Lake  Florence, 
and  navigated  by  smaller  vessels,  which  thread 
the  dark  bayous  far  into  the  remote  and  un- 
peopled south.  Its  tributaries,  the  Ocklawaha 
and  Kissimmee,  are  also  the  avenues  of  a  con- 
siderable trade.  The  recent  drainage-works 
have  opened  a  steamboat  route  140  miles  long, 
on  the  historic  Caloosahatchee  River,  Lake 
Okeechoobee,  and  the  Kissimmee,  Cypress  and 
Tohopekaliga  Lakes,  into  inland  Florida.  The 
Peace,  Manatee,  Withlacoochee,  St.  Mark's,  ON  THE  OCKLAWAHA. 


170 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


LAKE    CITY  :     STATE   AGRICULTURAL    COLLEGE. 


Apalachicola  and  other  rivers  are  being  improved  by 
United- States  Engineers.  The  Suwanee  has  been 
made  navigable  to  Ellaville,  124  miles. 

Lake  Okeechobee  covers  1,000  square  miles, 
and  is  from  16  to  22  feet  above  the  sea.  In 
rainy  times  it  overspreads  vast  areas  of  the 
Everglades,  and  floods  entire  townships.  The 
Everglades  is  a  vast  and  luxuriant  swamp  of 
7,500  square  miles,  during  the  rainy  season 
(from  July  to  October)  covered  with  from  one 
to  ten  feet  of  pure  and  clear  water,  abounding  in  fish,  and  studded  with  islands,  some  of 
them  containing  hundreds  of  acres  of  cypresses  and  pines,  palmettoes  and  magnolias. 
The  United  States  patented  to  Florida  nearly  20,000,000  acres  of  land,  of  which  the 
State  had  on  her  hands,  in  1881,  12,758,000  acres  unsold,  but  encumbered  by  a  lien  (the 
Vose  Judgment)  of  nearly  $1,000,000,  largely  on  account  of  railroad  construction.  In 
1 88 1,  Hamilton  Disston  and  others  of  Philadelphia  paid  $1,000,000  for  4,000,000  acres, 
and  formed  the  Florida  Land  and  Improvement  Company,  which  has  since  acquired  vast 
additional  tracts,  besides  selling  2,000,000  acres  to  Sir  Edward  Reed  and  other  British 
capitalists.  This  enterprising  company  also  offered  to  drain  the  Everglades  and  lower  its 

lakes,  if  half  the  redeemed  territory  (in  alternate  sec- 
tions) should  be  granted  them.  The  new  drainage 
area  extends  85  miles  from  Lake  Tohopekaliga  to 
Lake  Okeechobee,  and  thence  a  broad  canal  leads  west- 
ward to  the  Caloosahatchee  River.  Okeechobee  has 
fallen  two  feet,  and  4,000  miles  of  rich  lands  have 
been  reclaimed  for  the  cultivation  of  sugar  and  fruit, 
for  which  the  climate  seems  peculiarly  adapted. 

The  State  contains  1,200  clear  lakes,  which  agree- 
ably diversify  its  otherwise  monotonous  scenery. 
Many  of  them  cover  more  than  50  square  miles  each, 
like  Chipola  and  Miccosukee,  Apopka  and  Kis- 
simmee,  George  and  Tohopekaliga. 
The  Climate  varies,  from  that  of  North  Florida,  with  a  temperature  ranging  from 
98°  to  19°,  to  that  of  the  central  counties,  1 00°  to  25°,  and  of  South  Florida,  96°  to  30°, 
while  the  temperature  of  the  latter  shows  marked  inequalities,  Key  West  being  several  de- 
grees cooler  than  Punta  Rassa,  a  long  way  to  the  northward.  The  prolonged  heats  of 
South  Florida  are  perilous  to  unacclimated  persons,  and  especially  to  those  with  a  tendency 
to  malarial  and  typhoid  fevers,  who  should  keep  north  of  29° 
from  March  until  November.  Febrile  and  bilious  patients 
should  avoid  Florida.  The  winters  are  distinguished  by  fre- 
quent rains,  especially  on  the  Gulf  side,  and  by  occasional 
light  frosts  in  North  and  Central  Florida,  sometimes  resulting 
disastrously  for  the  orange  groves.  The  climate  is  in  the 
main  remarkably  equable  and  healthy,  except  near  the  wet 
lands  of  the  south.  It  has  been  said  that  the  Florida  year 
is  made  up  of  eight  months  of  summer  and  four  months  of 
warm  weather.  The  summer  temperature  is  more  even  than 
that  of  the  North.  The  cool  and  salty  sea-breezes  blow 
clear  across  the  peninsula  during  the  day,  and  at  night  the 
returning  Gulf  winds  blow  from  the  westward.  North  of  29° 
the  climate  resembles  that  of  Algiers,  Sicily,  Greece,  Cyprus, 
Syria  and  Armenia.  The  winters  are  like  the  Indian  summers  AMONG  THE  PINES. 


A    FLORIDA    BICYCLE. 


THE  STATE  OF  FLORIDA. 


171 


INDIAN    RIVER 


of   the   North.     Mrs.    Stowe   pronounced  the    St. -John's 
country  "a  child's  Eden."     The  winter  climate  is  singu- 
larly dry  and  healthful,  and  resembles  that  of  Southern  Cali- 
fornia, without  its  dust.      It   is  warmer  on  the  Atlantic 
coast  than  along  the  Gulf,  owing  to  the  Gulf  Stream, 
which  hugs  the  shore  from  Biscayne  Bay  to  Jupiter 
Inlet.     The  climates  of  Florida  cannot  be  described 
in  a   paragraph,  for   they   show  wide  differences, 
even  between  points  so  near  as  Jacksonville 
and  Palatka,   and  still    more   between  the 
Tallahassee  country  and   the    sub-tropical 
South.     Among  the  ailments  benefited  by  a 
season    in    Florida    are   consumption, 
phthisis,  brain-exhaustion,    dyspepsia, 
nervous  prostration,  rheumatism,  and 
throat    and   bronchial  troubles.      The 
health-seeker  must  be  careful  not    to 
return  too  early  in  the  season  to  the 
cold  Northland. 

Florida  is  divided  into  three  sec- 
tions, as  to  its  soil :  (i)  the  oak,  hick- 
ory and  pine  uplands  in  the  northwest, 
covering  2,300  square  miles  of  fairly  good  red- 
loam,  brown-loam,  and  pine-ridge  lands,  with 
noble  trees  and  small  crops ;  (2)  the  long-leaf- 
pine  lands  of  north  and  central  Florida,  the  high 
rolling  region  of  dark  sandy  loam  (with  its  groups  of  beautiful  lakes,  high-arched  forests, 
and  rising  villages),  the  water-soaked  flat  pine-lands  toward  the  coasts,  and  the  verdant 
and  fertile  hammocks  or  swamp-surrounded  knolls,  crowned  with  oranges,  live-oaks,  pal- 
mettoes  and  cypresses ;  and  (3)  the  pitch-pine  and  alluvial  lands  of  the  south,  where  prairies 
and  savannas  alternate  with  flat  woods  and  swamps,  a  rich  soil,  adapted  to  coffee,  rice, 
sugar-cane,  guavas,  pineapples  and  bananas.  The  best  pine-lands  have  a  dark  vegetable 
mould,  on  deep  chocolate-colored  sandy  and  limy  loam,  apparently  inexhaustible.  The 
second-rate  pine-lands  are  high  and  rolling,  healthy  and  well-watered,  heavily  timbered,  and 
with  good  natural  pasturage.  About  25,000,000  acres  are  covered  with  woods,  nearly  three 
fourths  of  which  is  the  valuable  pitch-pine,  the  rest  including  pine,  oak,  sweet-gum,  royal 
palm,  bay-laurel,  magnolia,  cedar,  beech,  mahogany,  satin-wood,  lignum-vitae,  green  ebony, 
mangrove,  cork-tree  and  olive  —  in  all  200  species  of  trees.  Many  large  saw-mills  in  West 
Florida  are  devoted  to  getting  out  the  pitch  (or  Georgia)  pine  lumber.  Live-oak,  for  ship- 
building, is  a  large  product  of  the  northeast ;  and  western  Florida  finds  profit  in  tar,  rosin, 
and  pitch,  and  distilling  turpentine.  Lumbering  is  the  foremost  industry  of  the  State,  and 
yields  $20,000,000  a  year.  The  immense  levels  of  Florida  are  broken  only  in  the  north- 
west, by  a  few  hills  of  300  feet  i  in  height.  On  the  whole  peninsula  there  is  no  eminence 

equalling  100  feet.  The  land  on  these  vast  levels  is  ex- 
ceedingly rich,  for  the  most  part,  the  chief  diffi- 
culty being  in  clearing  it. 

The  Farm-Products  of  the  State  include 
yearly  4,500,000  bushels  of  corn,  600,000  bushels 
of  oats,  1,300,000  pounds  of  rice,  1,000,000  gal- 
lons of  molasses,  1,500  hogsheads  of  sugar,  with 
tea  and  coffee,  flax  and  hemp,  barley  and  hops, 
JACKSONVILLE  :  FLORIDA  SUB-TROPICAL  EXPOSITION,  peas  and  beans.  It  bears  but  little  wheat  or  hay. 


172 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE    UNITED   STATES. 


KEY    WEST  :      MARINE    HOSPITAL. 


The  cotton  crop  is  60,000  bales,  valued  at 
$4,000,000,  and  including  much  Sea-Island 
cotton.  The  northeastern  counties  send  ship- 
loads of  early  vegetables  and  berries  to  the 
Northern  cities.  The  tobacco  industry,  after 
many  years  of  neglect,  is  now  assuming  great 
proportions,  especially  in  the  rich  Suwannee- 
River  country,  and  -broad  areas  have  been 
planted  with  the  best  of  Cuba  and  Sumatra 
seed.  The  yearly  product  now  reaches  nearly 
$700,000,  and  increases  every  season.  There 
are  50  varieties  of  oranges  cultivated  here,  the  Florida  fruit  holding  the  preeminent  rank 
over  all  the  oranges  of  the  world.  Fully  10,000  square  miles  are  adapted  to  this  delicious 
fruit,  and  100,000  acres  are  in  orange-groves ;  and  already  the  yearly  crop  reaches  2,250,000 
boxes  (150  in  a  box).  About  $10,000,000  is  invested  in  the  orange-groves,  and  the  yearly 
product  is  valued  at  nearly  $2,000,000.  The  St. -John's  and  Halifax-River  regions  are 
perfectly  adapted  to  this  fine  fruit.  The  oranges  grow  on  graceful  straight  gray-barked 
trees,  from  15  to  30  feet  high,  with  large  shining  leaves  and  delicate  white  and  fragrant 
blossoms.  The  line  of  migration  of  the  orange  has  been  from  southeastern  Asia  to  Syria 
and  Spain  ;  and  the  cavaliers  of  the  latter  country  brought  it  to  Florida.  It  is  raised  largely 
in  21  counties,  the  main  product  coming  from  Lake,  Marion,  Putnam,  Orange  and  Volusia. 

The  choicest  fruit  is  the  juicy  and  thin-skinned 
variety  growing  along  the  richly  fertile  shores 
of  the  Indian  River,  under  the  intimate 
warmth  of  the  Gulf  Stream.  The  grape-fruit 
grows  more  easily  than  the  orange,  and 
hangs  in  clusters  (whence  its  name). 
The  shaddock  is  a  larger  and  coarser 
fruit,  weighing  from  three  to  five  pounds, 
and  shaped  like  a  pumpkin.  It  is  not 
much  eaten.  Besides  the  cocoanuts  and  pineapples  of  the  Keys,  Florida  produces  lemons 
and  limes,  grapes  and  dates,  guavas  and  citrons,  tamarinds  and  pomegranates,  figs  and 
olives,  pears  and  apples,  peaches  and  quinces.  Both  yellow  and  red  bananas  are  grown, 
1,000  plants  to  the  acre,  in  rich  moist  soil. 

The  Geology  of  peninsular  Florida  tells  that  it  is  founded  on  coral  reefs,  upon  which 
Vicksburg  limestone  was  deposited,  followed  by  sand,  pebbles  and  clay.  The  formations 
are  so  recent  that  they  contain  few  valuable  minerals,  except  the  shell-limestone  (coquina) 
of  St.  Augustine,  and  the  Tampa  and  Manatee  marls.  Ocala  has  large  lime-kilns.  Brown 
lignite  occurs  on  the  Suwanee  and  Blackwater.  The  limestone  strata  are  full  of  caverns, 
through  some  of  which  flow  crystal  streams,  occasionally  breaking  out  on  the  surface  of  the 
ground  in  great  "boiling  springs."  Elsewhere  occur  the  conical  hollows  called  "sinks," 
sometimes  covering  many  acres,  with  running  water  visible  at  the  bottom.  The  Wakulla 
Spring  is  400  feet  wide,  crystalline  and  ice-cold,  and  forming  a  navigable  river.  Silver 
Spring  is  600  feet  across,  and  its  efflux  is  a  navigable 
stream  1 50  feet  wide.  Blue  Spring  pours  a  flood  of 
clear  blue-tinted  water  into  the  Withlacoochee,  from 
a  bowl  70  feet  across  and  40  feet  deep.  The  Green - 
Cove,  and  other  springs  are  of  similar  form  and 
proportions. 

Florida  phosphate  rock  was  discovered  in  small 
quantities  at  various  points  about  the  year  1885,  and 
in  1889  Dunn,  Voight  and  Snowden  found  the  great  DUNNELLON  :  DUNNELLON  ca "'^PHOSPHATE  BEDS. 


GAINESVILLE  :     EAST    FLORIDA    SEMINARY. 


THE  STATE   OF  FLORIDA. 


173 


DUNNELLON  :  DUNNELLON  CO.  'S  PHOSPHATE  BEDS. 


and  invaluable  deposits  at  Dunnellon.  The  im- 
portance of  these  finds  was  instantly  seen,  and  vast 
sums  have  been  invested  in  their  development. 
The  two  chief  fields  are  along  the  Gulf,  for  60 
miles;  and  in  the  Withlacoochee  region,  where 
this  mineral  deposit,  so  valuable  for  the  sandy 
soil  of  Florida,  is  easily  procured,  in  inexhausti- 
ble bars  and  beds.  The  Dunnellon  mines  are  in 
the  latter  region,  and  have  already  sent  out  many 
tons  of  phosphatic  material,  mainly  to  Europe, 
where  it  is  highly  prized  for  fertilizing  purposes. 
Florida  phosphate  rock  is  of  a  creamy  tint,  very  soft  when  first  dug,  and  containing  from 
5  to  40  per  cent,  of  phosphate  impregnating  the  limestone  or  sandstone.  The  Dunnellon 
rock  has  shown  in  analysis  80  per  cent,  of  phosphate  of  lime,  on  dry  basis,  and  the  fertil- 
izers made  from  it  do  not  revert,  but  show  a  high  percentage  of  soluble  after  being  kept 
some  time.  The  Bradley  Fertilizer  Company,  of  Boston,  has  a  con- 
trolling interest  in  the  Dunnellon  property,  and  is  the  general  agent 
for  its  sale. 

Government. — The  governor  is  elected  by  the  people  for  four 
years.     The  Legislature  contains  32  four-years'  senators  and  68  two- 
years'  representatives.     The  judiciary  includes  three  justices  of  the 
Supreme  Court ;  the  seven  circuit  courts ;  the  county  courts 
and  justices;   and  local  criminal  courts.      Since  1880  the 
State   finances  have  been  redeemed ;    railways  have  been 
extended,  and  many  new  towns  founded ;  and  the  orange- 
culture  and  the  fisheries  have  been  developed  amazingly. 
The  State  Capitol,  at  Tallahassee,  is  a  massive  and  roomy 
structure,  built  by  the  Territorial  Government  in  1834. 

The  militia  of  Florida  is  composed  of  the  Florida  State 
Troops,  enrolled  in  three  battalions,  of  ten  infantry  and  two  DE  LAND:  JOHN  B-  STETSON  UNIVERSITY. 
artillery  companies  and  500  men.  They  have  annual  encampments,  that  for  1887  having- 
been  at  Pablo  Beach,  and  that  for  1888  near  Pensacola.  There  are  also  15  detached  volun- 
teer companies  of  infantry  (seven  of  them  colored),  reporting  to  the  Adjutant-General  of 
Florida.  The  territorial  militia  numbers  48,000  men. 

The  State  Penitentiary  contains  360  convicts,  more  than  three  fourths  being  colored 
men,  and  most  of  their  crimes  having  been  against  property.  The  prisoners  are  kept  in  a 
stockade  near  Monticello,  and  employed  in  farm-labor.  The  Florida  Insane  Asylum,  in  the 
old  United- States  arsenal  at  Chattahoochee,  has  250  inmates, 
mostly  whites.  The  Institution  for  Deaf,  Dumb  and  Blind 
Youths  is  at  St.  Augustine. 

Education. — Florida  spends  $500,000  a  year  (five  times  as 
much  as  in  1880)  for  its  schools,  whose  efficiency  is  advancing 
continually.  One  fourth  of  the  schools  are  for  colored  children, 
and  one  fourth  of  the  teachers  are  negroes.  The  State  normal 
colleges  were  founded  in  1887.  The  one  at  De  Funiak  Springs 
is  attended  by  60  white  students ;  the  one  at  Tallahassee  has  52 
colored  students.  The  Florida  Chautauqua  has  beautiful 
grounds  and  many  buildings,  and  gives  a  month  of  lectures 
and  studies,  readings  and  concerts.  It  is  at  De  Funiak  Springs, 
a  deep  and  crystalline  circular  lakelet,  without  outlet  or  inlet, 
270  feet  above  and  20  miles  from  the  Gulf%  and  surrounded  by 
fragrant  forests  of  pitch-pine.  The  De  Funiak  waters  and  KEy  WEST .  UGHT-HOUSE. 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF'  THE   UNITED   STATES. 


PENSACOLA  :    FORT    PICKENS. 


climate  have  effected  many  cures,  and  are  highly 
esteemed  in  Florida. 

The  Congregationalists  founded  Rollins  College, 
at  Winter  Park,  in  1885,  and  it  now  has  four  build- 
ings, on  the  shore  of  Lake  Virginia.  John  B. 
Stetson  University  begun  as  DeLand  Academy  in 
1883,  and  became  a  Baptist  school  in  1887.  It  is 
named  in  honor  of  a  well-known  Philadelphia. 
philanthropist,  who  has  given  it  large  sums  of 
money.  The  University  is  at  the  pleasant  town  of 
De  Land.  The  Methodist  Episcopal  Church  South  founded  the  Florida  Conference  Col- 
lege, at  Leesburg,  in  1886;  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church  founded  the  St.  -John's  Con- 
ference College,  at  Orange  City,  in  1887;  the  Christians  founded  Orange  College,  at 
Starke,  in  1883. 

The  Legislature  of  1851  ordered  that  "two  seminaries  of  learning  shall  be  established, 
one  upon  the  east,  the  other  upon  the  west,  side  of  the  Suwanee  River.  "  For  many  years 
these  were  the  only  public  high-schools  in  Florida.  The  West-Florida  Seminary  is  at  Tal- 
lahassee ;  the  Seminary  East  of  the  Suwanee  River  is  at  Gainesville.  They  are  military 

and  normal  institutions,  with  about 

-.  *     •  '  -.  v  120  students  in  both.      Florida  Uni- 

•'  —  -    -   ----  -    -       versity  was  organized  in   1883,  with 


ST.    AUGUSTINE  !     FORT    MARION. 


the  West-Florida  Seminary  as  its 
literary  department,  and  the  Talla- 
hassee College  of  Medicine  and  Surg- 
ery, as  a  professional  school ;  but  it  endured 
only  for  a  short  season.  The  State  Agri- 
cultural College  is  at  Lake  City,  and  furnishes  a  free  collegiate  course  in  literature,  farming 
and  military  science  to  80  young  Floridians.  The  Cookman  Institute  is  a  normal  and 
Biblical  school  for  colored  people,  with  170  pupils,  maintained  by  the  Methodist  Episco- 
pal Church,  at  Jacksonville.  The  Baptists  have  a  similar  school,  at  Live  Oak  ;  and  the 
Congregationalists  opened  the  Florida  Normal  and  Industrial  College,  near  Lake  City,  in 
1886. 

Florida  has  275,000  church  attendants.  The  Baptists  lead  the  field,  with  400  churches 
and  28,731  members.  The  Methodists  have  19,000,  the  Catholics  11,000,  the  Presby- 
terians 2,500,  and  the  Episcopalians  9,500. 

The  pioneer  in  Florida  journalism  was  The  Floridian,  founded  at  Tallahassee  in  1828, 
and  still  in  existence.  The  State  now  has  eleven 
daily  newspapers  and  above  loo  weeklies.  There 
are  two  papers  published  at  Key  West  in  the 
Spanish  language ;  the  American  paper  being  the 
daily  Equator-Democrat. 

National  Works.— Fort  Marion,  at  St.  Au- 
gustine, is  a  grand  gray  polygon,  with  a  dry  moat 
40  feet  wide.  It  was  built  in  1737-66,  by  Mexican 
convicts,  part  of  the  works  having  been  erected  as 
early  as  1565.  The  dark  dungeons,  gray  barbican,, 
dusky  passages  and  sea-viewing  ramparts  are  visited  ST.  AUGUSTINE  :  MONUMENT  TO  DADE-S  COMMAND. 


THE  STATE   OF  FLORIDA. 


T.   AUGUSTINE  :     THE    ALCAZAR. 


by  bevies  of  wondering  tourists.  There  is  no  garrison.  St. -Francis  Barracks,  also  at 
St.  Augustine,  are  occupied  by  United- States  troops.  Fort  Clinch,  near  Fernandina, 
has  been  abandoned  for  some  years.  Fort  Taylor,  at  Key  West,  is  a  casemented  penta- 
gonal brick  structure,  erected  at  a  cost  of  $1,250,000,  and  mounting  200  guns.  There  are 
also  martello-towers  on  the  island.  The  garrison  was  with-  ^^  drawn  long  ago. 

Fort  Jefferson,  on  Garden  Key,  the  largest  of  the  Dry  Tor- 
tugas,  is  an  enormous  and  powerful  fortification 
of  brick,  enclosing  nine  acres  of  lawns  and  palm- 
trees,  oleanders  and  roses.  It  was  begun  in  1846, 
to  be  the  military  key  of  the  Gulf,  and  is  said  to 
have  cost  $30,000,000,  all  its  materials  having 
been  brought  from  New  York.  The  officers' 
quarters  and  barracks  are  the  best  in  America. 
During  the  Secession  War  this  fortress  became  a  National  military  prison.  Since  1878  it 
has  remained  ungarrisoned,  but  a  battalion  has  recently  been  ordered  hither.  Nearly  three 
miles  distant,  across  a  fairy-land  forest  of  submerged  corals,  rise  the  snow-white  sands  of 
Loggerhead  Key.  Fort  Jefferson  is  71  miles  from  Key  West.  The  entrance  to  Pensacola 
is  defended  by  Fort  McRae  and  Fort  Pickens,  half  a  league  apart,  with  Fort  Barrancas 
two  miles  above  and  facing  down  the  channel.  The  first  two  have  been  abandoned. 
They  are  nearly  half  a  century  old,  and  endured  terrific  bombardments  during  the  Secession 
War.  Pensacola  has  an  antique  Navy  Yard,  very  little  used  of  late  years;  and  there  is  a 
Naval  Station  at  Key  West.  At  night  the  flashes  from  36  light-houses  sparkle  along  the 
Florida  coast  and  Keys,  and  nearly  60  on  the  long  St.  -John's  River. 

Chief  Cities. — Jacksonville,  15  miles  from  the  ocean,  on  a  bend  of  the  St. -John's 
River,  is  the  metropolis  of  Florida,  with  large  fruit-packing  interests  and  grain  trade,  and 
some  manufactures  ;  and  entertains  nearly  80,000  guests  every  winter  season.  It  has  a  large 

ocean-commerce,  with  wharves  lining  the  river-front  for 
miles.     The  broad  avenues  and  suburban  shell-roads  are 
lined  with  live-oaks  and  .fragrant  flow- 
ers, and  afford  pleasant  drives. 

St.  Augustine,  with  its  quaint  Spanish 
lanes  and  balconied  buildings,  crumbl- 
^v, .ft  ing  gates  and  castle,  and 


AUGUSTINE  :     THE    PONCE    DE    LEON. 


noble  magnolias,  palms  and  oleanders,  is 

the  oldest  city  in  the  United  States,  and 

has  the  most  costly  and  magnificent  hotels 

in  the  .world.     Two  of  these,  the  Ponce  de 

Leon  and  the  Alcazar,   cost  $5,000,000, 

and  are  massively  built  of  shell  concrete, 

in     semi-Saracenic      Spanish- Renaissance 

architecture,    with    towers,    casinos,    and 

courtyards.     The  Hotel  Cordova  is  a  third 

magnificent  Moresque  structure.      St.  Augustine  also  possesses  the  most  elaborate  modern 

Pompeian  villa  in  the  world,  designed  by  a  British  architect,  with  atrium,  trichnia,  exedra, 

bibliotheca  and  solarium.     The  new  Presbyterian  and  Methodist  churches  are  among  the 

finest  pieces  of  architecture  in  the  South.      On  the  Plaza  de  la  Constitucion  stands  the  old 

slave-market ;  and  the  Huguenot  Cemetery,  the  graves  of  Maj.  Dade's  command,  the  old 

convents  and  churches,  the  many  attractive  and  interesting  drives,  and  the  yachting  in  the 

adjacent  waters,  furnish  a  great  variety  of  interest  for. visitors  to  the  American  Riviera. 


ST.    AUGUSTINE  :    THE    PONCE    DE    LEON. 


ST.   AUGUSTINE  I    CATHEDRAL  AND  SLAVE-MARKET. 


176  KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

Tallahassee,  the  capital,  is  purely  a  Southern  inland  city,  famous  for  its  flowers  and  its 
delightful  society,  and  old-time  traditions,  and  near  the  old  Spanish  fort  of  San  Luis.  The 
city  stands  on  a  hill  250  feet  high,  and  overlooks  many  leagues  of  pine-forests,  amid  which 
rises  the  mysterious  smoke  of  Wakulla.  Pensacola,  another  old  Spanish  colony,  has  a 
noble  harbqr  of  200  square  miles,  with  a  large  export  trade  in  lumber  and  fish.  Fernan- 
dina  is  a  pros-  A  perous  old  sea-port,  exporting  lumber  and  naval  stores,  with  one  of  the 
best  landlock-  H  ed  harbors  on  the  Atlantic  coast,  and  a  capital  winter  climate.  A  shell 

road  leads  out  two  miles  to  the  firm 
W  and  shining  sands  of  Amelia  Beach, 
twenty  miles  long,  with  hotels  and 
cottages,  and  the  best  of  surf-bath- 
ing. The  Mallory  line  of  steam- 
ships runs  from  Fernandina  to  New 
York.  Palatka  stands  on  a  pleas- 
ant plateau,  at  the  head  of  steam- 
ship navigation,  96  miles  up  the  St.  -John's,  and  in  a  rich  orange  country.  It  is  an  im- 
portant supply-depot  and  headquarters  for  travellers.  Tampa,  a  very  ancient  little  city,  of 
Spanish  origin,  near  Tampa  Bay,  is  attaining  importance  for  its  cigar-factories,  and  its 
commerce  with  the  West  Indies.  The  Tampa-Bay  Hotel  is  one  of  the  most  magnificent 
pleasure  resorts  in  the  Union,  among  the  orange  and  palm  groves  and  live-oaks  along  the 
Hillsborough  River.  Cedar  Keys  is  one  of  the  chief  steamship  ports  of  the  Gulf  coast,  with 
a  large  trade  in  sponges  and  oysters,  fish  and  turtles. 

The  Railroads  of  Florida  have  developed  their  lines  rapidly  since  the  war,  and  have 
perfected  their  northern  connections,  so  that  Pullman  vestibuled  trains  run  from  Jacksonville 
to  New  York  in  30  hours,  and  to  Cincinnati  in  28  hours.  The 
Florida  Central  &  Peninsular  Railroad  runs  southwest  156  miles, 
from  Fernandina  to  Cedar  Keys ;  west  232  miles,  from  Jacksonville 
to  the  Chattahoochee  River  (where  it  connects  with  the  Louisvillle 
&  Nashville  line);  and  south  from  Waldo  to  Tampa,  159  miles; 
with  branches  to  Tavares  (for  Sanford  and  Orlando)  and  St. 
Mark's.  The  Jacksonville,  Tampa  &  Key-West  Railroad  ascends 
the  St. -John's  River  to  Enterprise,  and  ends  at  Titusville,  the  metro- 
polis of  the  Indian-River  country.  The  Orange-Belt  line  runs 
southwest  157  miles  from  Sanford  to  St.  Petersburg,  on  Tampa  Bay. 
The  Florida  Southern,  South  Florida,  and  other  lines  traverse  long 
distances  of  the  lower  peninsula.  The  Plant  system  includes  a 
large  part  of  the  Florida  lines.  The  Atlantic  Coast  Line  runs  superb 
trains  from  Boston  and  New  York  through  to  Florida. 

Steamboats  run  daily  from  Jacksonville  to  Sanford  in  18  hours;  and  smaller  steamers 
run  thence  to  Lake  Harney.  Another  line  runs  from  Palatka  to  Wclaka,  on  the  St. -John's, 
and  thence  200  miles  up  the  Ocklawaha  River.  A  favorite  tourist-route  lies  along  the 
beautiful  semi-tropical  lagoons  of  the  eastern  coast,  from  Ormond-on-thc- 
Halifax,  or  from  Daytona,  along  the  sparkling  green  waters  of 
the  Halifax  River,  with  sea-beaches  and  light-houses  on  one 
side,  and  pleasant  embowered  villages  on  the  other.  Below 
Mosquito  Inlet,  the  steamboats  enter  Hillsborough  Lagoon, 
and  thence  pass  into  Indian  River  by  a  canal  at  the  Haul- 
over.  Here  they  visit  the  maritime  Titusville  and  the  beau- 
tiful pleasure-resort  at  Rockledge  and  Jupiter.  The  most 
southerly  railroad  in  the  United  States  runs  from  Jupiter  to 
Lake  Worth,  whose  little  steamboats  visit  several  villages, 
the  luxurious  winter-homes  of  rich  Northern  gentlemen.  ST  AUGUSTINE-  OLD  GATE. 


ST.    AUGUSTINE  :      TREASURY 
STREET. 


STAT  E  •  CAPI  TOIL  •  ATLANTA 


THE-.EMPIRE- 

3TRTE :  QF-THE-50UT-H 


STATISTICS. 

Settled  at Savannah. 

Settled  in 1733 

Founded  by    ....    Englishmen. 
One  of  the  13  Original  States. 


1,057,286 

1,184,109 

i,542,»8o 

816,906 

725,274 

1,531,216 

10,564 

762,981 

779,199 

1,837,353 


HISTORY. 

The  aborigines  of  Geor- 
gia were  the  Cherokees,  with 
6,000  warriors,  occupying 
the  highlands,  north  of  34° 
(the  line  of  Elberton,  Ath- 
ens and  Marietta) ;  and  the 
various  tribes  of  the  Mus- 
cogee  or  Creek  Confedera- 
tion, numbering  15,000  per- 
sons in  Georgia,  south  of  34°.  In  the  year  1 540  De  Soto 
and  his  600  Spaniards  marched  from  the  Ocklokonee  to  the 
Ocmulgee,  and  to  Silver  Bluff,  on  the  Savannah,  25  miles 
below  Augusta,  where  they  abode  for  some  days.  The 
army  ascended  the  Savannah  Valley  to  Franklin  County 
and  Mt.  Yonah,  and  traversed  the  Alleghanies,  by  Coosa- 
wattee  and  Chiaha(Rome),  entering  Alabama  by  the  Coosa. 
Everywhere  they  sought  gold,  and  20  years  later  Tristan  de 
Luna  and  300  Spanish  soldiers  marched  from  Pensacola  to 
Cherokee  Georgia,  and  opened  mines  which  were  worked 
for  over  a  century. 

The  foundation  of  Georgia  is  due  to  the  benevolence  of 
Gen.  James  Edward  Oglethorpe,  a  veteran  of  Prince  Eugene 
of  Savoy's  staff,  and  afterwards  a  member  of  Parliament, 
who  established  here  a  place  where  insolvents,  prisoners  for 
debt,  and  other  unfortunates  might  begin  the  world  anew, 
and  where  religious  freedom  should  be  accorded  (except  to 
Catholics).  Parliamentary  grants  of  ;£  180,000  were  made 
to  further  these  objects ;  and  Oglethorpe  sailed  from  Eng- 
land in  the  Anne,  and  reached  Savannah  (by  way  of  Char- 
leston), February  I,  1733,  with  116  immigrants  in  his  com- 
pany. The  Creeks  received  these  new  neighbors  hospitably, 
and  they  soon  spread  out  over  Darien,  Augusta,  St.  Simon's 
Island  and  other  localities.  To  this  haven  of  peace  came 
colonies  of  Hebrews,  Moravians  and  Lutherans,  and  many 
Bavarians  and  Scottish  Highlanders.  In  1736  John  and  Charles  Wesley  came  over  with 
parties  of  Methodists ;  and  two  years  later  George  Whitefield  founded  the  Bethesda  Home, 
near  Savannah.  When  the  war  broke  out  between  England  and  Spain,  in  1739,  Gen. 


Population,  in  1860, 

In  1870, 

In  1880 

White,      .... 

Colored 

American -born,     . 
Foreign-born,   . 
Males,      .... 
Females,  .    .    . 
In  1890(17.  S.  census), 

White, 973,462 

Colored 863,716 

Voting  Population,      .     .    .    321,716 

Vote  for  Harrison  (1888),  .      40,496' 

Vote  for  Cleveland  (1888),     100,499 

Net  State  debt  (1890),      .    $8,065,221 

Real  Property,    .     .    .      $192,000,000 

Personal  Property,      .     .  $75,000,000 

Area  (square  miles),    .    .  59,475 

U.  S.  Representatives  (1893),  n 

Militia  (Disciplined),  .    .     .        4,040 

Counties, 137 

Post-offices 1,991 

Railroads  (miles),  ....  4,532 
Manufactures  (yearly),  .  . 
Farm  1  and  (in  acres),  .  26,000,000 
Farm  Products  (yearly}$ii2,ooo,oco 
School  Buildings,  ....  8,oco 
Average  School-Attendance,  226,000 

Newspapers, 291 

Latitude,  .  .  .  .  3o°2i' to  35°  N. 
Longitude,  .  .  8o°48'  to  85040'  N . 
Mean  Temperature  (Atlanta),  61.1° 
Mean  Temperature  (Savannah)  65.5° 

TEN  CHIEF  CITIES  AND  THEIR  POPU- 
LATIONS.    (Census  of  1890.) 

Atlanta, 65,533 

Savannah,    ...          ...    43,189 

Augusta, 33,300 

Macon, 22,746 

Columbus, 17,303 

Athens, 8,639 

Brunswick, 8,459 

Rome, 6,957 

Americus, 6,398 

Thomasville, 5,514 


i78 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED  STATES. 


the  British 
of  70,000 
fleets  and 


AUGUSTA  I    SOLDIERS'    MONUMENT. 


Oglethorpe  led  1,000  troops  against  St.  Augustine,  and  was  beaten  off.  In  1742  Don  Manuel 
de  Monteano  attacked  Frederica  with  50  vessels  and  5,000  men,  Florida  and  Cuban  in- 
fantry, Spanish  marines  and  Italic  dragoons,  and  was  defeated  by  Gen.  Oglethorpe  and  652 
Georgians,  with  heavy  loss.  But  two  causes  worked  against  the  success  of  the  colony :  the 
onerous  military  duties  demanded,  which  caused  many  to  migrate  to  the  Carolinas,  and  the 
prohibition  of  slavery.  The  latter  was  removed  in  1750.  The  trustees  of  the  colony  were 
its  law-makers  (without  pay),  until  1752,  when  a  governor  and  council  were  appointed  by 
King.  In  1775  Gov.  Sir  James  Wright  fled,  and  Georgia,  then  a  Province 
people,  sent  delegates  to  the  Continental  Congress.  In  1778-79  British 
armies  captured  Savannah,  Augusta  and  Sunbury,  repulsing  the  assault  of 
Lincoln  and  D'Estaing  on  the  first-named  town.  After  Charleston 
fell,  Georgia  was  the  scene  of  a  bitter  guerilla  warfare,  until  Gen. 
Greene  pacified  the  State. 

The  territory  of  Georgia  originally  included  the  region  be- 
tween the  Savannah  and  the  Altamaha ;  and  in  1 763,  after  the 
wars  with  France  and  Spain,  it  was  extended  south  to  St.  Mary's 
and  west  to  the  Mississippi  River.  In  1803  the  State  ceded  to 
the  Republic  100,000  square  miles,  west  of  the  Chattahoochee, 
and  out  of  this  imperial  domain  Alabama  and  Mississippi  were 
formed.  The  Creeks  ceded  to  the  United  States,  by  the  treaty 
of  Fort  Wilkinson,  in  1802,  the  greater  part  of  southwestern 
Georgia.  In  1838  the  Cherokees  were  transported  to  the  West. 
When  the  secession  movement  began,  in  1860,  Stephens  and  Johnson  and  others  strenu- 
ously resisted  it,  their  opponents  being  Toombs  and  Cobb.  For  a  time  it  seemed  as  if 
the  State  would  not  secede,  and  the  mountaineers  of  remote  Cherokee  Georgia  never  joined 
that  movement,  but  caused  much  trouble  to  the  Confederate  authorities.  Yet  when  the 
question  came  up  for  a  vote  of  the  people,  50,243  chose  secession,  to  37,123  voting  for  the 
Union.  The  chief  events  of  the  civil  war  on  the  Georgia  coast  were  the  occupation  of 
Big  Tybee  Island  by  DuPont's  Federal  fleet  (November  25,  1861),  and  the  surrender  of 
Fort  Pulaski  (April  II,  1862),  after  a  bombardment  from  Gen.  Q.  A.  Gillmore's  batteries 
on  Tybee  Island,  which  levelled  much  of  its  walls.  DuPont  captured  and  garrisoned 
Darien,  St.  Simon's  Island,  Brunswick  and  St.  Mary's,  and  destroyed  the  Confederate 
cruiser  Nashville  in  the  Ogeechee  River.  The  monitor  Weehawken  captured  the  Atlanta, 
a  Confederate  ironclad,  below  Savannah.  In  the  autumn  of  1863,  Thomas's  and  McCook's 
Federal  corps  entered  northwestern  Georgia,  over  Lookout  Mountain,  and  flanked  the 
Confederate  army  out  of  Chattanooga,  compelling  its  retreat  down  the  Western  &  Atlantic 
Railroad.  Then  suddenly  Bragg  and  Longstreet  turned,  and  threw  themselves  upon 
Rosecrans's  advancing  forces,  at  Chickamauga,  and  defeated  them,  in  a  three-days'  engage- 
ment, driving  them  back  to  Chattanooga.  In  this  costly  battle,  H2,ooo 
men  were  engaged,  and  one  fourth  of  them  met  with  death  or  wounds. 
Some  regiments  lost  over  60  per  cent,  of  their  men.  Viewing  the  num- 
bers engaged,  and  the  time,  Chickamauga  was  by  far  the  bloodiest  battle 
of  modern  times.  In  May,  1864,  Sherman  advanced  from  Chattanooga, 
and  after  heavy  fighting  at  Resaca,  New  Hope  Church,  Kennesaw  Moun- 
tain, and  many  other  points,  pressed  Johnston's  army  beyond  the  Chatta- 
hoochee, and  besieged  Atlanta,  which  was  defended  by  Hood. 
Within  a  month  the  two  armies  lost  2O,OOO  men  about  this  city, 
and  then  Hood  retreated  and  Sherman  occupied  the  place,  early  in 
September.  November  15,  1864,  Sherman  burned  Atlanta,  and 
began  the  famous  "  March  to  the  Sea,"  with  62,000  men  and  65 
cannon,  spread  in  a  width  of  forty  miles,  repulsing  the  attacks  of 
the  Confederates.  Macon,  Milledgeville,  Millen  and  other  towns  AUGUSTA  :  OLD  BELL-TOWER. 


THE  STATE  OF  GEORGIA. 


179 


GRAND    CHASM, 
TUGALOO    RIVER. 


were  capHured,  and  finally  Hazen  stormed  Fort  McAllister,  and  Hardee 
was  compelled  to  evacuate  Savannah.  Three  weeks  later  Sherman  left 
a  garrison  at  Savannah  and  started  on  his  march  through  the  Carolinas. 

For  a  few  weeks  Georgia  possessed  no  government  except  that  of  the 
United- States  generals,  and  then  James  Johnson  became  provisional  gover- 
nor. In  April,  1865,  Wilson's  Federal  cavalry  swept  over  Columbus  and 
West  Point,  and  near  Irwinville,  May  loth,  captured  Jefferson  Davis. 
In  1860  Georgia  had  462, 198  slaves  and  3,500  free  negroes;  in  1880  it 
had  725,135  free  colored  people.  Under  the  Reconstruction  Acts  of 
1867,  Georgia  was  placed  in  General  Pope's  military  command,  and  the 
next  year  the  new  constitution  was  framed,  and  a  governor  inaugurated, 
upon  which  the  control  of  the  State  passed  to  the  civil  authorities.  In 
spite  of  the  devastation  of  war,  the  State  gained  127,432  in  population 
between  1860  and  1870.  Since  1880,  a  rapid  and  healthy  development 
has  gone  forward,  and  the  cotton  shipments  of  Atlanta,  Rome  and 
Columbus,  the  cotton-mills  of  Augusta  and  Atlanta,  the  glass-works  of 
Tallapoosa  and  many  other  industries  have  risen  to  commanding  proportions.  In  general 
industrial  and  business  development  Georgia  leads  all  the  South  Atlantic  States ;  and  with 
her  noble  railway  system,  her  maritime  facilities,  and  her  agricultural  and  mineral  wealth, 
has  a  glorious  future  in  view.  She  was  the  latest  of  the  Atlantic  States  to  be  founded, 
but  her  growth  has  been  steady  and  vigorous,  and  she  has  become  one  of  the  leaders  in 
the  great  sisterhood  of  States,  rilled  with  the  splendid  thrill  of  modern  enterprise  and 
development,  and  the  fervor  of  a  noble  and  patriotic  American  spirit. 

The  Name  of  the  State  is  thus  derived  :  "The  projected  colony  was  called  GEORGIA 
in  honor  of  the  reigning  monarch  of  England  [George  II.],  who  had  graciously  sanctioned 
a  charter  so  liberal  in  its  provisions,  and  granted  a  territory  so  extensive  and  valuable  for 
the  encouragement  of  the  plantation."  It  is  now  often  called  THE  EMPIRE  STATE  OF  THE 
SOUTH,  in  allusion  to  its  rapid  and  enterprising  industrial  development. 

The  Arms  of  Georgia,  adopted  in  1799,  show  an  arch  inscribed  with  the  word  CON- 
STITUTION, and  upheld  by  three  pillars,  representing  the  legislative,  judicial  and  executive 
departments.  Under  the  arch  stands  a  man  with  a  drawn  sword,  typifying  the  military  power 
ready  to  defend  the  Constitution. 

The  Governors  of  Georgia  up  to  the  foundation  of  the  State  government  numbered 
24.  The  State  Governors  have  been:  Geo.  Walton,  1789-90;  Edw.  Telfair,  1790-3  ;  Geo. 
Matthews,  1793-6;  Jared  Irwin,  1796-8;  Jas.  Jackson,  1798-1801  ;  David  Emanuel,  (acting), 
1801 ;  Josiah  Tattnall,  1801-2;  John  Milledge,  1802-6;  Jared  Irwin,  1806-13  and  1815-7; 
Peter  Farly,  1813-5;  Wm.  Raburn,  1817-9;  Matthew  Talbot  (acting),  1819;  John  Clark, 
1819-23;  George  M.  Troup,  1823-7;  John  Forsyth,  1827-9;  Geo.  R.  Gilmer,  1829-31  and 
1837-9;  Wilson  Lumpkin,  1831-5;  Wm.  Schley,  1835-7;  Chas.  J.  McDonald,  1839-43; 
Geo.  W.  Crawford,  1843-7;  Geo.  W.  B.  Towns,  1847-51  ;  Howell  Cobb,  1851-3;  Herschell 
V.  Johnson,  1853-7;  Joseph  E.  Brown,  1857-65;  Jas.  Johnson  (provisional),  1865;  Chas. 
J.  Jenkins,  1865-9  ;  Rufus  B.  Bullock,  1869-72  ;  Jas.  Mil- 
ton Smith,  1872-7;  Alfred  H.  Colquitt,  1877-82;  Alex. 
H.  Stephens,  1883;  Henry  D.  McDaniel,  1883-6;  John 
B.Gordon,  1886-90;  W.  J.  Northen,  1890-2. 

Geography. — Georgia  is  the  largest  State  east  of 
the  Mississippi,  a  massive  and  compact  domain  of  five 
sides,  with  its  centre  near  Jeffersonville,  which  is  also 
the  centre  of  the  colored  population  of  the  Republic. 
It  lies  in  the  latitude  of  Algiers,  Asia  Minor,  Persia, 
Tibet,  and  Arizona.  When  the  sun  rises  here  it  is  noon 
in  Switzerland,  sundown  in  China,  and  midnight  on  the  BRUNSWICK  •  IN  THE  PINES 


i8o 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 


KENNESAW    MOUNTAIN. 


Pacific.  Georgia  is  divided  into  three  great  sections,  Lower,  Middle  and  Upper,  with  widely 
different  climates  and  products.  Lower  Georgia  includes  more  than  half  the  State,  with  an 
area  of  35,000  square  miles,  covering  the  Pine-barrens  and  sand-hills,  the  Swamp  Belt  and  the 
Sea  Islands.  Here  also  is  the  dark  and  impenetrable  Okefinokee  Swamp,  1 80  miles  around, 
a  region  of  dead  pools  and  lonely  islands,  inhabited  by  bears  and  wildcats,  and  huge  alli- 
gators and  other  reptiles.  The  inner  recesses  of  this  vast  jungle  have  never  been  visited. 
The  peninsulas  of  high  and  arable  land  pushed  into  the  swamp  are  called  cow-houses,  because 
the  planters  used  to  pasture  cattle  upon  them,  with  a  man  at  each  isthmus  to  guard  them. 
These  places  are  inhabited  by  a  primitive  and 
hospitable  people,  who  go  out  occasionally  to 
buy  salt,  coffee,  and  tobacco.  Lower  Georgia 
includes  the  sea-coast,  128  miles  long,  or,  count- 
ing the  sounds  and  islands,  480  miles. 

The  Sea  Islands  cover  500  square  miles,  and 
are  overgrown  with  great  live-oak  and  palmetto 
woods.  The  cultivation  of  cotton,  once  so 
prominent  among  these  unhealthy  lowlands,  has 
now  greatly  fallen  off.  Jekyl  Island,  where  the 
last  cargo  of  slaves  brought  into  the  United  States  was  landed,  from  the  Wanderer,  is  owned 
by  a  club  of  Northern  gentlemen  whose  wealth  aggregates  $500,000,000.  It  is  one  of  the 
largest  game-preserves  in  America,  abounding  in  pheasants  and  quail,  wild  turkeys  and  deer, 
and  has  a  costly  club-house  and  admirable  roads,  with  a  sea-fronting  beach  thirteen  miles  long. 
Cumberland  Island  is  30  miles  long,  with  magnificent  forests  of  oaks,  palmettos  and 
palms.  It  was  in  olden  times  occupied  by  the  Dungeness  estate  of  Gen.  Nathaniel  Greene, 
of  the  Revolutionary  army.  This  house  has  been  replaced  by  the  beautiful  mansion  of  Mrs. 
Thomas  Carnegie,  of  Pittsburgh.  Light-Horse  Harry  Lee  was  buried  at  Cumberland,  and 
Count  Pulaski  on  St.  Helen's  Island.  Among  the  other  islands  are  Ossabaw  and  St.  Simon, 
Sapelo  and  St.  Catherine.  The  sounds  of  St.  Andrew  and  St.  Simon,  Doboy  and  Sapelo, 
St.  Catherine  and  Ossabaw  have  inlets  from  the  sea,  and  are  navigable  for  hundred-ton  ves- 
sels. The  harbors  of  Savannah,  Darien,  Brunswick  and  St.  Mary's  have  from  14  to  17 
feet  of  water  at  low  tide. 

The  foreign  export  trade  exceeds  $20,000,000  a  year,  nearly  all  being  cotton  and  naval 
stores,  shipped  from  Savannah.  The  coasting- trade  shipment  is  largely  in  excess  of  this,  and 
includes  early  fruits  and  vegetables,  fish  and  lumber,  cotton  and  naval  stores.  Most  of  the 
domestic  shipments  are  made  from  Brunswick  and  St.  Mary's,  the  other  two  ports  of  entry 
in  Georgia.  Georgia  has  a  mercantile  fleet  of  133  vessels,  of  36,000  tons.  These  waters  are 
famous  for  their  fisheries,  of  pompano,  red-snappers,  sea-trout,  Spanish  mackerel  and  green 
turtle.  The  extensive  Savannah  arid  Ogeechee  fisheries  send  the  first  shad  to  the  North. 

For  a  score  of  miles  inland  the  land  is  about  twelve  feet  above  the  sea.  Then  it 
mounts  up  to  80  feet,  which  average  elevation  it  retains  for  20  miles  farther  inland,  rising 

there  to  150  feet.  In  the  next  hundred  miles,  up 
to  the  falls  of  the  rivers,  the  general  height  in- 
creases to  570  feet.  The  Hill  Country,  or  Middle 
Georgia,  includes  an  area  of  15,000  square  miles, 
between  the  falls  of  the  rivers  and  the  foot-hills 
of  ijOOofeet  high.  The  southern  part  is  a  broad 
plateau,  breaking  towards  the  north  into  parallel 
ranges  of  high  hills,  and  rich  in  secluded  valleys. 
The  soil  is  a  red  loam,  very  much  impoverished 
by  long  and  exhaustive  cultivation. 

Upper  Georgia,  otherwise  known  as  the  Moun- 
tain Region,  or  Cherokee  Georgia,  is  a  country 


STONE   MOUNTAIN. 


TOCCOA    FALLS. 


THE  STATE   OF  GEORGIA. 

of  great  landscape  beauty,  covering  10,000  square  miles  of  the 
Appalachian  Range  and  its  higher  foot-hills.  The  Blue  Ridge  of 
Virginia  and  the  Carolinas  enters  the  State  at  its  northwestern 
corner,  and  ends  abruptly  in  the  Atlanta  region.  In  and  near  the 
odd  angle  of  Georgia  pushed  up  between  the  two  Carolinas  occur 
the  noblest  crests  of  this  range  :  Sitting  Bull  (5,046  feet)  and  Mona 
(5,039),  as  the  two  peaks  of  Nantihala  are  called ;  Mount  Enotah, 
or  the  Brasstown  Bald  (4,797);  and  the  Rabun  Bald  (4,718),  not 
far  from  Rabun  Gap.  This  region  also  contains  the  beautiful 
Tallulah  and  Toccoa  Falls,  and  other  famous  cascades  ;  and  many 
a  charming  valley,  like  Rabun  and  Nachoochee.  The  famous 
Nicojack  Cave,  in  the  Raccoon  Mountains,  is  entered  through  a 
portal  1 60  feet  wide  and  60  feet  high.  The  stream  issuing  thence 
may  be  ascended  for  three  miles  by  boats,  to  a  waterfall.  Stone 
Mountain  is  one  of  the  largest  masses  of  granite  in  the  world,  and 
attains  a  height  of  2,220  feet.  Twenty  miles  west  of  the  Blue  Ridge  rises  the  Cohutta 
range,  3,000  feet  high,  continuous  with  the  Unaka  Mountains  of  Tennessee,  and  fading  away 
^  in  the  Dugdown  Mountain  of  Alabama.  The  northwestern  cor- 
ner of  Georgia  is  occupied  by  Lookout  and  Sand  Mountains,  and 
their  great  plateaus,  hallowed  by  the  best  blood  of  the  Republic, 
during  Sherman's  and  Johnston's  campaign. 

The  rivers  of  Georgia  are  grouped  in  the  Atlantic,  Gulf  and 
Tennessee  systems.  The  first  includes  the  Savannah,  flowing  south 
southeast  450  miles  from  the  confluence  of  the  Tugaloo  and  Kee- 
wee,  in  the  Blue  Ridge,  and  navigable  for  ships  to  Savannah, 
1 8  miles;  for  steamboats  to  Augusta,  291  ;  and  (passing  around 
the  falls  by  the  canal)  for  150  miles  farther  (to  Petersburg  or 
.  Andersonville)  by  poleboats.  Below  Augusta  many  rich  cotton 
plantations'  line  the  shores  ;  and  farther  down  are  broad  rice-fields, 
succeeded  by  weird  swamps  whose  live  oaks  are  hung  with  gray 
moss.  Sloops  ascend  the  Ogeechee  for  40  miles,  and  keelboats 
go  up  as  far  as  Louisville,  1 50  miles.  The  river  is  200  miles  long. 
The  tributary  river,  the  Cannonchee,  is  navigable  for  50  miles. 
In  the  southeast  are  the  Satilla-and  St.  Mary's  Rivers,  each  with 
50  miles  of  sloop-navigation.  The  Oconee  (navigable  to  Mil- 
ledgeville,  the  ancient  capital),  and  the  Ocmulgee  (navigable  to 
Hawkinsville,  and  formerly  to  Macon)  rise  in  the  Blue  Ridge,  and  flow  in  parallel  courses 
for  250  miles,  uniting  to  form  the  Altamaha,  which  reaches  the  sea  155  miles  from  their  con- 
fluence. Large  vessels  ascend  to  Darien.  The  Gulf  system  of  rivers  culminates  in  the  Chat- 
tahoochee,  450  miles  long,  and  navigable  by  large  steamboats  for  300  miles,  from  the  Gulf 
up  to  Columbus.  This  river  flows  from  the  Blue  Ridge  down  through  the  gold  country, 
forming  the  frontier  of  Georgia  and  Alabama  from  West  Point  to  Florida,  breaking  into 
white  rapids  and  then  into  valuable  falls  at  Colum- 
bus. At  the  Florida  line  the  Flint  River  (navi- 
gable 250  miles  up  from  the  Gulf,  to  Albany)  joins 
the  Chattahoochee,  and  the  two  form  the  Appa- 
lachicola  River.  The  Withlacoochee  and  Alla- 
paha  form  the  Suwanee.  The  Oostenaula  and 
Etowah  unite  at  Rome  to  form  the  Coosa  ;  and 
the  Tallapoosa,  another  tributary  of  the  Alabama, 
also  rises  in  Georgia.  The  Oostenaula  is  navigable 
by  steamboats  from  Rome  to  Carter's  Landing, 


TALLULAH    FALLS. 


JNSWICK  ;     LOVERS'    LIVE-OAK. 


182 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  'THE    UNITED   STATES. 


105  miles ;  and  steamers  ply  on  the  Coosa  from  Rome  to  Greensport,  153  miles.  In  the  north- 
west rise  the  rivers  of  the  Tennessee  Basin,  draining  1,000  square  miles  of  blue  limestone 
country,  with  many  rich  and  beautiful  valleys. 

Climate. — Upper  Georgia  has  a  healthy  and  diversified  climate,  60°  in  the  valleys, 


and  50°  on  the 
The  summer 
ter  tempera- 


heights,  with  frequent  snows  in  winter,  and  a  clear  and  bracing  air. 
mean  is  75.3°;  the  winter  mean,  42.8°.      Middle  Georgia  has  a  win- 
ture  of  47.2°,  with  occasional  ephemeral  snows,  and  a  summer  mean 
of  79°,  with  little  rain  and  comfortably  cool  nights.     The 
rich  and  swampy  low  country  enjoys  a  delightful  winter  cli- 
mate (48°  to  54°),  but  the  six-months  summer  induces  malar- 
ial,   bilious  and  typhoid   fevers,   especially  in  unacclimated 
persons.     The  summer  mean  is  81.3°.     The  pine-barrens  are 
SAVANNAH  :  CHATHAM-CO.  COURT-HOUSE,   more  healthy. 

The  evergreen  live-oaks  of  Georgia  are  famous  for  their  excellence  as  ship-lumber,  and 
grow  abundantly  in  the  southeast,  finding  their  shipping-port  at  Brunswick.  There  are  a 
score  of  other  varieties  of  oaks  ;  six  kinds  of  pines,  including  the  valuable  yellow  pine  ;  six 
of  hickories,  the  ash,  chestnut,  chinquapin,  persimmon,  haw,  sweet-gum,  magnolia,  cypress, 
sycamore,  tulip  and  other  trees.  Over  200,000,000  feet  of  lumber  and  timber,  valued  at 
$7,000,000,  are  shipped  yearly.  The  great  pine-barrens  produce  generously  tar,  pitch,  tur- 
pentine and  resin,  of  which  more  than  $3,000,000  worth  have  been  shipped  from  Savannah 
and  Brunswick  in  a  single  year,  much  of  it  to  foreign  ports. 

The  enormous  product  of  the  pine-trees  of  Georgia,  in  the  way  of  naval  stores,  is  shipped 
almost  entirely  from  Savannah,  whose  wharves  are  sometimes  laden  with  100,000  barrels  of 
these  articles.  Great  attention  has  been  paid 
since  the  war  to  this  trade,  and  a  large  propor- 
tion of  the  turpentine  and  rosin  used  in  the  world 
passes  out  from  the  wharves  of  Savannah,  the  fore- 
most shipping-port  for  naval  stores.  Turpentine 
is  an  oleo-resinous  substance  obtained  from  in-  ju~j  «f 

•  ,  j      r  •     • 

cisions  in  pine-trees,  and  used  for  mixing  var- 

nishes  and  paints  ;  and  rosin  is  its  residuum  after  SAVANNAH  :  PEACOCK,  HUNT  &  co.  - 
distillation,  and  finds  its  use  in  soap-making.  The  chief  commercial  house  handling  these 
valuable  products  of  the  forest  is  Peacock,  Hunt  &  Co.,  of  Savannah,  who  have  an  honor- 
able distinction  as  the  largest  naval-stores  factors  in  the  world.  They  facilitate  the  course 
of  trade  by  making  cash  advances  to  the  manufacturers,  and  selling  their  goods  on  commis- 
sion. This  business  was  founded  in  1877,  an(^  nas  a  capital  of  $500,000.  It  represents  150 
manufacturers  of  naval  stores,  whose  yearly  product  reaches  80,000  barrels  of  spirits  of  tur- 
pentine and  320,000  barrels  of  rosin,  valued  at  $2,500,000. 

Farming.  —  Cotton  is  the  staple  crop  of  the  light  and  sandy  soils  of  southwestern  Geor- 
gia, and  also  comes  in  great  quantities  from  the  central  counties  and  the  sandy  valleys  of  the 
north.  This  is  the  third  State  in  the  product  of  cotton,  and  has  sent  out  nearly  1,000,000 
bales  in  a  single  year,  including  the  bulk  of  the  famous  Sea-Island  (or  long-staple)  cotton. 
Since  the  freeing  of  the  slaves  most  of  them  have  worked  on  the  plantations  on  shares,  vary- 

ing from  one  third  to  one  half  of  the  crop.  Corn  is  grown 
all  over  the  State,  to  the  extent  of  nearly  40,000,000  bush- 
els a  year.  Wheat,  oats,  clover,  tobacco,  sorghum  and  pea- 
nuts are  also  produced  in  great  quantities.  Before  the  war, 
rice  was  raised  on  the  bottom-lands  of  southern  Georgia 
to  the  amount  of  50,000,000  pounds  a  year.  The  crop 
has  never  since  then  reached  such  figures,  but  is  increas- 
ing from  year  to  year,  in  spite  of  formidable  competition 
SAVANNAH  :  TELFAiR  ART-GALLERY.  from  China.  Sugar-cane  grows  freely  in  the  lowlands. 


NAVAL  STORES. 


THE  STATE  OF  GEORGIA. 


183 


SLOPE    MINE,   DADE    COUNTY:    GEORGIA    MINING, 
MANUFACTURING    AND    INVESTMENT    COMPANY. 


Sweet  potatoes  form  one  of  the  chief  exports,  reaching 
5,000,000  bushels  a  year.  The  fruits  of  Middle  Geor- 
gia include  the  Scuppernong  and  Herbemont  grapes, 
apples  and  pears  in  great  variety,  and  luscious  peaches. 
Fruits  ripen  30  days  sooner  than  at  the  North,  and 
the  truckers  of  the  lowlands  send  immense  quantities 
to  New  York,  together  with  early  cabbages  and  onions, 
beans  and  peas,  potatoes  and  cucumbers.  The  low- 
lands produce  oranges  and  lemons,  bananas  and  olives, 
figs  and  mulberries,  and  early  strawberries.  The 
Georgia  fruit-crop  reaches  nearly  $1,000,000  in  value. 
The  watermelons  of  this  region  have  long  been  famous 
as  the  best  in  the  world.  Besides  the  vast  local  consumption,  millions  are  shipped  North 
every  season.  It  may  be  noted  as  a  singular  fact  that  Georgia  has  144,000  mules  (valued 
at  $13,754,000)  to  106,000  horses  ($8,736,000).  There  are  also  1,000,000  cattle,  worth 
$12,500,000  ;  500,000  sheep,  worth  $800,000;  and  1,600,000  hogs,  worth  $5,500,000. 

The  Geology  of  Georgia  shows  the  variegated  and  plastic  clays  and  deep  white  sands 
of  the  Southern  Drift  or  Quartenary  period,  over  the  Tertiary,  Eocene,  Miocene,  and  Plio- 
cene, of  the  Low  Country ;  the  cretaceous  group,  in  the  west  and  on  the  Ogeechee ;  the 
— —-^^         metamorphic  granites,  gneisses  and  schists  of  Mid- 
H    die  and  Northern  Georgia,  north  of  the  Augusta- 
|    Macon-Columbus  line,  crossed  by  triassic  trap-dikes 
and  slates,  and  containing  everywhere  small  quan- 
tities of  gold  and  silver ;  the  Palalozoic  sandstones, 
shales  and  limestones  of  the  Blue  Ridge ;  and  the 
carboniferous  beds  of  the  Northwest. 

Minerals.  —  The  Alabama  coal-beds  run  into 
northwestern  Georgia,  covering  200  square  miles, 
and  offering  vast  deposits  of  excellent  bituminous 
coal,  much  in  demand  at  the  smelting-furnaces.  The 
chief  mines  are  in  Bade  County.  Providentially  near 
the  coal-beds  and  limestone  hills  occur  immense  de- 
posits of  red  fossiliferous  iron  ore,  covering  350 
square  miles.  Shinbone  Mountain,  running  for  40  miie.s  parallel  to  Lookout  Mountain, 
is  rich  in  this  valuable  mineral,  which  extends  into  the  Lookout  and  Pigeon  Mountains. 
Other  ores  of  iron  occur  in  great  beds  in  the  Chattoogata  and  Cohutta  ranges. 

One  of  the  largest  and  most  important  corporations  in  the  world-renowned  "New  South" 
is  the  Georgia  Mining,  Manufacturing  and  Investment  Company,  under  the  presidency  of 
Julius  L.  Brown,  with  his  father,  Senator  Joseph  E.  Brown,  as  Vice-President ;  Franklin 
Weld,  of  Boston,  General  Manager ;  and  Elijah  A.  Brown,  Treasurer.  The  headquarters 
are  at  Atlanta.  The  paid-up  capital  is  $1,000,000. 
This  corporation  owns  all  of  the  stock  and  operates 
the  properties  of  The  Dade  and  The  Castle  Rock 
Coal  Companies,  with  lands  in  Dade  County,  and  in 
Alabama  and  Tennessee,  with  their  connecting  rail- 
ways and  coke-ovens  ;  The  Georgia  Iron  &  Coal  Com- 
pany, and  the  Bartow  Iron  &  Manganese  Company, 
owning  immense  deposits  and  mines  of  manganese 
and  hematite  iron  ores,  and  their  railroads,  near  Car- 
tersville  ;  the  Walker  Iron  &  Coal  Company,  with  its 
great  Rising-Fawn  furnace,  and  lands  on  Lookout 

?,  ..,.-.,.  ,  ,  j    —,,  COKE-OVENS,    DADE    MINES  :    GEORGIA    MINING, 

Mountain,  rich  in  fossil  iron  ores  and  coal  ;  and  I  he        MANUFACTURING  AND  INVESTMENT  COMPANY. 


RISING   FAWN    FURNACE  :    GEORGIA    MINING, 
MANUFACTURING    AND    INVESTMENT    COMPAN 


1 84 


HANDBOOK:  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES. 


HYDRAULIC    MINING,  BARTON    COUNTY!    GEORGIA 
MINING,    MANUFACTURING   AND    INVESTMENT    CO. 


Chattanooga  Iron  Company,  with  its  furnace.  Its 
two  furnaces  produce  160  tons  of  pig  iron  daily ;  and 
its  mines  produce  160,000  tons  of  coal  and  coke  a 
year.  The  total  acreage  of  lands  is  about  48,000, 
with  22iy  miles  of  railroad.  The  union  of  so  many 
vast  and  valuable  properties  under  one  control  en- 
sures a  most  favorable  advantage  for  the  company  to 
cheaply  produce  pig  iron,  concentrating  under  one 
management  the  mining  of  manganese,  of  iron  ore,  of 
coal,  and  the  manufacture  of  coke  by  cheap  labor 
which  the  company  controls. 

The  recent  development  of  Georgia  marble  com- 
menced in  1885,  since  which  time  immense  quanti- 
ties have  been  quarried,  and  the  product  has  been  distributed  all  over  the  United  States. 
The  principal  advantages  that  this  marble  has  over  others  are  unusual  strength  and  density, 
conclusively  shown  by  tests  and  experiments  made  by  expert  authorities.  It  will  not  absorb 
moisture,  and  consequently  does  not  disintegrate  in  any  climate.  This  fact  also  renders  it 
valuable  for  interior  decorations,  as  it  cannot  be  injured  by  any  discoloring  agents.  The 
crushing  strength  averages  750  tons  per  square  foot.  The  Georgia  Marble  Company  is  one 
of  the  most  notable  industries  on  this  continent.  ~~18i^^^K~ 

It  represents  a  value  of  several  million  dollars. 
It  owns  6, 1 72  acres  of  solid  beds  of  marble,  at 
Tate,  in  Pickens  County ;  and  here  there  are 
five  large  quarries,  equipped  with  the  best  mod- 
ern machinery,  and  producing  2,000  cubic  feet 
of  marble  daily.  Other  features  of  this  great 
plant  are  the  three  finely-equipped  mills  for  saw- 
ing marble ;  eight  steam  derricks ;  a  travelling 
derrick  500  feCt'long,  capable  of  storing  200,000 
cubic  feet  of  stone ;  30  steam  machines  for 
cutting  marble  in  quarries ;  16  steam  boilers  ;  complete  machine-shops ;  50  buildings, 
including  tenement-houses ;  and  a  standard-gauge  railway  of  nearly  seven  miles,  with  loco- 
motives and  equipments.  The  marble  is  produced  in  many  different  tints,  as  white,  white 
with  dark  spots  and  veins,  dark  mottled  and  variegated  blue,  pink,  salmon,  orange  and 
olive.  This  beautiful  material  is  sent  all  over  the  United  States,  and  used  not  only  for  the 
walls  of  buildings  and  their  interior  decoration  in  floors  and  wainscots,  and  mantels,  but 
also  for  monuments  and  tombs,  drug-counters  and  soda-fountains,  imposing  stones,  butchers' 
and  fish-mongers'  tables,  and  many  other  ornamental  and  industrial  purposes.  It  is  a  true 

crystalline  marble,  pre-eminent  in  strength,  and 
showing  a  wonderful  variety  of  colors.  One  of 
its  chief  virtues  is  an  invincible  non-absorbent 
quality,  and  this  ability  to  resist  all  liquids  gives 
it  a  peculiar  value  for  public  buildings.  The 
deposits  already  bored  and  tested  are  sufficient 
in  quantity  to  supply  the  world  for  centuries. 
Already  the  Creole,  Etowah,  Kennesaw,  and 
Cherokee  marbles  of  this  company  are  widely 
in  use  throughout  the  Union,  especially  in  banks, 
hotels,  and  office-buildings,  besides  for  the  ex- 
teriors of  some  of  the  finest  houses  in  the  country. 
The  product  of  the  Georgia  Marble  Co. 
TATE:  GEORGIA  MARBLE  COMPANY'S  DEEP  QUARRY.  was  at  first  mainly  used  at  Chicago,  Cincinnati 


TATE  :    GEORGIA    MARBLE    COMPANY. 


WATERMELON    CULTURE. 


THE  STATE   OF   GEORGIA. 

and  other  western  cities,  where  there  are  many  buildings  con- 
structed thereof.  As  its  fame  became  more  widely  known, 
large  eastern  orders  came  in,  and  now  the  business  of  the1 
company  reaches  nearly  every  State,  and  the  new  product, 
whose  existence  was  hardly  known  six  years  ago,  is  now  one 
of  the  great  staple  commodities  of  the  country. 

The  Kennesaw  marble  is  partly  clear  and  sparkling  white, 
and  partly  like  veined  Italian,  in  spots  and  lines  of  pale  blue. 
The  Creole  marble  is  a  dark  mottled  variety,  blue-black  on  a 
clear  white  or  gray  ground,  giving  a  very  rich  and  beautiful  effect. 
The  Cherokee  is  white,  or  blueish  gray,  with  darker  spots 
and  clouds.  The  Etowah  includes  pink,  salmon  and  rose  tints,  and  dark  green  shades, 
and  many  variegations  and  blendings  thereof.  Sometimes  it  has  a  peculiarly  delicate  and 
beautiful  amethystine  color. 

Gold  was  discovered  in  Habersham  County  in  1831,  and  the  United-States  Mint  at 
Dahlonega  coined  over  $6,000,000  between  1837  and  1 86 1.  The  town  of  Dahlonega 
stands  on  the  gold-belt,  and  precious  nuggets  and  dust  are  found  in  its  streets.  Hydraulic 
mines  were  once  worked,  and  much  free  placer  gold  rewarded  the  treasure-seekers.  The 
word  Dahlonega  is  Indian  for  "Yellow  Gold."  When  the  white  Americans  learned  of  the 
presence  of  the  precious  metal  in  this  region,  they  entered  on  all  sides,  although  the 
country  by  treaty  and  occupation  belonged  to  the  Cherokees ;  and  this  invasion  has  always 
since  been  known  as  "the  intrusion."  Of  recent  years,  northern  capitalists  have  taken 
some  interest  in  the  abandoned  gold-mines  of  Georgia,  and  the  long  lethargy  which  has 
enwrapped  these  hills  seems  to  be  nearly  at  an  end.  It  is  possible  that  in  the  remote 
depths  of  the  mountain-land  there  may  be  vast  treasuries  of  gold,  to  be  discovered  and 
exploited  by  future  generations. 

During  their  palmy  days,  the  gold-fields  of  the  Southern  Alleghany  Mountains  yielded 
over  $20,000,000.  The  coins  minted  at  Dahlonega  bore  an  initial  letter  D.  The  old  mint 
and  its  ten  acres  of  grounds  were  given  by  Congress  to  the  State  of  Georgia  in  1871 ;  and 
pertain  to  the  North  Georgia  Agricultural  College,  a  branch  of  the  University  of  Georgia. 

The  Cohutta  Mountains  have  deposits  of  iron  and  maganese,  lead,  silver  and  gold. 
The  State  contains  many  other  minerals,  including  mica  and  plumbago,  soapstone  and 
white  and  pale-green  talc,  asbestos  and  gypsum,  kaolin  and  fire-clay,  marl  and  phosphate, 
magnesia  and  barytes,  copper  and  pyrites.  Granite,  slate  and  sandstone  are  quarried  in 
great  quantities,  and  diamonds,  opals,  rubies  and  other  gems  have  been  found,  but  in 
limited  number,  and  of  small  value. 

The  Government  rests  in  a  governor  and  executive  officers  elected  by  the  people 
every  two  years.  The  governor  appoints  the  commissioner  of  schools,  and  the  railroad 
commissioners  are  elected  by  the  General  Assembly. 
The  biennially-meeting  General  Assembly  contains 
44  senators  and  175  representatives,  elected  for  two 
years.  The  Supreme  Court  has  three  justices,  and 
there  are  superior  and  county  courts,  and  courts  of 
ordinary.  The  Constitution  of  1868  excludes  slavery 
and  secession  ;  makes  duellists  ineligible  to  vote  or 
hold  office  ;  and  gives  the  suffrage  to  every  male  citizen 
of  Georgia.  The  Capitol,  at  Atlanta,  is  an  imposing 
structure  of  Indiana  stone,  finished  in  1888,  at  a  cost 
of  $862,000,  the  funds  coming  from  a  special  tax. 
The  Georgia  Volunteers  form  the  largest  militia  force 
in  the  South,  and  include  the  First  Regiment  (Savan- 
nah), the  Second,  Third,  Sixth  and  Ninth  Bat-  TATE .  GEOReiA  MARBLE  co.  -s  QUARRIES. 


i86 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


talions,  and  1 8  companies  of  infantry,  eight  troops  of  cav- 
alry, and  two  batteries.     The  Georgia  Volunteers,  Colored, 
include  the  First  (Savannah)  and   Third  (Augusta)  Battal- 
ions, numbering  eleven  companies,  and  14  unattached  com- 
panies.   The  military  spirit  runs  high  among  the  young  men 
of  Georgia,  but  the  State  is  economical  in  the  equipment  of 
her  troops.     The  Chatham  Artillery,  of  Savannah,  dates  from 
1786,  and  has  volunteered  in  every  war  since.    When  Wash- 
ington visited   Savannah,   he  presented  the  company  with 
SAVANNAH  :  FOUNTAIN,  FORSYTH  PARK,   two  handsome  bronze  cannon,  taken  from  Lord  Cornwallis 
at   Yorktown,  and   these  venerable  six-pounders  are  still  owned  by  them.     The  colored 
militia  companies  are  among  the  best  in  the  Union.     The  police  force  of  Savannah  has  the 
unusual  organization  of  regular  troops. 

The  Georgia  Lunatic  Asylum,  near  Milledgeville,  has  1,40x3  inmates  (one  third  of  them 
colored),  with  nine  detached  brick  buildings.  The  Georgia  Institution  for  the  Education 
of  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  was  opened  in  1846,  in  a  log  cabin  at  Cave  Spring.  It  has  84  pupils. 
The  Methodists  have  orphans'  homes  at  Decatur  and  Macon.  The  convict-camps  contain 
over  1,500  prisoners,  nine  tenths  of  whom  are  negroes.  The  yearly  mortality,  of  nearly  two 
per  cent.,  is  a  terrible  evidence  against  this  system  of  punishment. 

The  National  Institutions  in  Georgia  culminate  in  the  new  ten-company  military 
post  of  McPherson  Barracks,  near  Atlanta.  The  United-States  Arsenal  stands  in  the  en- 
virons of  Augusta.  Fort  Pulaski  is  a  five-sided  brick  work,  with  casements  and  barbette 
batteries  and  a  wet  ditch,  isolated  among  the  marshes  and  islands,  14  miles  below  Savan- 
nah. It  has  been  rebuilt  and  strengthened  since  the  civil  war,  when  it  received  a  terrible 
pounding  from  the  United-States  batteries.  Fort  Oglethorpe  is  three  miles  from  Savan- 
nah. Both  these  works  are  ungarrisoned.  There  are  six  light-houses  on  the  Atlantic  coast 
and  24  lights  on  the  Savannah  River.  Near  Anderson  ville  was  the  horrible  prison -pen  in 
which  the  Confederates  kept  44,882  National  soldiers,  13,000  of  whom  died  here  of  hunger, 
disease,  filth,  vermin  and  despair.  It  was  a  side-hill  field  of  1,54°  by  75°  feet,  surrounded 
by  a  stockade,  with  many  sentries,  and  cannon  pointing  inward.  The  National  Cemetery 
contains  13,714  graves;  and  another  National  Cemetery  at  Marietta  enshrines  the  remains 
of  10,151  soldiers  who  died  in  the  great  campaigns  against  Atlanta. 

The  Newspapers  include  28  dailies,  195  weeklies,  and  34  others.  Eleven  are  devoted 
to  religion,  9  to  education,  6  to  farming,  and  5  to  medicine.  Prohibition,  labor-reform,  and 
woman  suffrage  have  their  local  organs  ;  and  there  are  several  newspapers  printed  by  and  for 
the  colored  people.  The  Augusta  Chronicle  dates  from  1785;  \hzMacon  Telegraph,  from 
1826  ;  and  the  Columbus  Enquirer,  from  1828.  The  literary  products  of  Georgia  have  been 
among  the  brightest  in  American  history,  and  include  Harris's  Uncle  Remus,  Longstreet's 
Georgia  Scenes,  Thompson's  Major  Jones,  Smith's  Bill  Arp,  Johnston's  Dukesborough  Tales, 
Col.  C.  C.  Jones's  brilliant  historical  works,  and  the  poems  of  Hayne,  Lanier,  Randall  (of 
My  Maryland},  Ticknor,  Wilde,  Hubner  and  Father  Ryan. 

The  Atlanta  Constitution  is  happily  responsible  for  much  of  the  prosperity  of  Georgia  in 
its  new  developments  of  wealth  and  industry.  This 
great  journal  of  the  people  and  exponent  of  Southern 
thought  and  progress  was  founded  in  1868  ;  and  the 
Weekly  Constitution  now  enjoys  the  largest  circula- 
tion of  any  weekly  edition  of  a  daily  paper  in  the 
United  States,  being  over  150,000  copies  each  week. 
One  of  the  chief  texts  of  this  paper  has  always  been  : 
"If  the  South  can  keep  at  home  the  $400,000,000 
received  annually  for  the  cotton  crop,  she  will  soon 
be  rich  beyond  competition.  As  long  as  she  sends  it 


dft 


ATLANTA  :  CENTRAL  RAILROAD  STATION, 


ATLANTA  :  ATLANTA    CONSTITUTION. 


THE  STATE   OF   GEORGIA. 

out  for  the  supplies  that  make  the  crop,  she  will  remain  poor." 
The  enthusiasm  with  which  the  Constitution  has  kept  this  sub- 
ject before  the  people,  arid  continually  exploited  the  natural 
wealth,  beauty  and  power  of  the  South,  has  been  a  noble  factor     i 
in  the  upbuilding  of  Georgia  and  its  sister  States.     Among     \ 
the  gifted  writers  of  this  paper  have  been  Henry  W.  Grady, 
Joel  Chandler  Harris  (Uncle  Remus),  Howell,  and  others. 
The  Atlanta  Constitution  is  one  of  the  most  successful  and 
most  prosperous  newspapers  in  the  country. 

Education. — There  was  no  common-school  system  before 
the  war,  although  certain  funds  were  allotted  to  the  counties, 
for  che  teaching  of  indigent  children.  The  general  school-law 
of  1868  established  a  very  efficient  system  of  State,  county 
and  district  schools.  The  fund  is  above  $800,000.  The  Uni- 
versity of  Georgia  received  its  charter  in  1785,  and  began  its 
work  in  1801.  Since  that  time  it  has  graduated  many  eminent  and  useful  men,  including 
Stephens,  Cobb,  Toombs,  Hill  and  Johnson,  200  legislators,  26  congressmen,  60  judges,  4 
governors,  and  2  bishops.  In  all  its  departments  it  has  above  1,200  students.  The 
campus  at  Athens  covers  37  acres  of  the  high  hills  over  the  Oconee,  besides  the  experi- 
mental farm  of  60  acres;  and  the  property  of  the  University  is  valued  at  $700,000.  There 

are  free  scholarships  for  3 1 5  Georgians.  The  University 
has  branch  colleges  at  Dahlonega,  Thomasville,  Cuth- 
bert  and  Milledgeville,  devoted  partly  to  agriculture, 
the  mechanic  arts  and  military  tactics  and  exercises. 
The  State  College  of  Agriculture  and  Mechanic  Arts 
occupies  the  Moore  College  on  the  University  cam- 
pus. The  Georgia  School  of  Technology  was 
opened  in  1888,  at  Atlanta,  as  a  branch  of 
the  State  University,  with  150  white  students. 
It  is  a  school  of  construction  and  a  practical 
manufactory,  well  endowed  and  possessing  fine 
brick  buildings.  The  law-school  is  at  Athens  ; 
the  medical  school  at  Augusta.  Emory  Col- 
lege, with  six  buildings  in  an  oak  grove  of  40  acVes,  on  the  high  granite  ridge  of 
Oxford,  was  chartered  in  1836,  and  pertains  to  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church,  South.  It 
has  15  instructors  and  300  students,  and  schools  of  technology,  law,  telegraphy  and  design. 
The  finest  of  its  buildings  is  Seney  Hall.  Mercer  University  arose  in  1838,  at  Penfield,  and 
was  removed  to  a  fine  plateau  near  Macon  in  1871.  It  is  a  Baptist  institution,  with  affiliated 
schools  of  law  and  theology.  Hearn  Institute,  at  Cove  Springs,  is  its  preparatory  school. 
Shorter  College,  for  girls,  founded  in  1873,  has  handsome  modern  buildings  on  Shelton  Hill, 
Rome,  overlooking  the  Coosa  and  Oostenaula  Valleys.  The  Wesleyan  Female  College  on 
Encampment  Hill,  commanding  Macon,  dates  from  1836,  and  has  300  students  and  over 


1,200  alumnae.    This  is  the  oldest  college  for  women  in  the  world.     It  has 

finest  buildings  in  the  South.    The  Medical  College  of  Georgia,  founded  at 

in  1829,  has  become  a  department  of  the  University.    There 

are  three  medical  schools  in  Atlanta.    The  Piedmont  Chau- 

tauqua  owns  several  hotels  and  scores  of  handsome  houses, 

a  great  tabernacle  seating  6,000  people,  a  gymnasium,  a 

hall  of  philosophy  and  other  college  buildings,  amid  the 

emerald  lawns,  flower-beds  and  fountains  of  a  beautiful 

park   at    Salt    Springs,    21    miles   west   of   Atlanta,   on 

the  Georgia  Pacific  route.     There  is  another  Chautauqua 


one  of  the 
Augusta 


ATLANTA  I    SCHOOL   OF   TECHNOLOGY. 


i88 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


at  Albany,  in  southwestern  Georgia.  The  Telfair  Academy  of  Arts  and  Sciences  was  founded 
about  the  year  1875,  m  tne  °^  Gov. -Telfair  mansion  at  Savannah,  and  under  the  care  of 
the  ancient  Georgia  Historical  Society.  The  art  gallery  contains  many  valuable  paintings, 
and  is  under  the  directorship  of  Carl  L.  Brandt,  N.  A. 

The  Catholics  have  academies  at  Savannah,  Washington,  Macon,  Augusta  and  Atlanta. 
Pio  Nono  College,  at  Macon,  is  now  a  novitiate  and  training-school  for  Jesuits. 

The  chief  institution  for  educating  colored  people  is  Atlanta  University,  opened  in  1869, 
and  now  possessed  of  60  acres  of  land  and  four  good  buildings,  with  collegiate,  normal, 
industrial  and  preparatory  schools.  Its  graduates  are  mainly  engaged  in  teaching.  Clark 
University,  at  Atlanta,  is  a  Methodist-Episcopal  school,  with  four  fine  buildings  and  the 
well-endowed  and  prosperous  Gammon  School  of  Theology.  It  has  also  an  excellent  indus- 
trial school.  The  Atlanta  Baptist  Seminary  has  146  students.  The  Morris- Brown  College, 

overlooking  Atlanta,  was  opened  in  1885,  having 
been  organized  by  the  ministers  of  the  Afri- 
can  Methodist  Episcopal  Church  in 
Georgia.  The  Paine  Institute,  opened 
in  Augusta  in  1884,  has  133  young  col- 
ored men  and  women,  in  normal,  theo- 
logical, industrial  and  music  classes ; 
and  Spelman  Seminary,  at  Atlanta, 
has  27  instructors  and  over  600  colored 
girls,  with  several  valuable  buildings. 
THE  PIEDMONT  cHAUTAUQiM,  NEAR  ATLANTA  The  ieading  libraries  in  Georgia  are 

the  State  Library,  45,000  volumes;  the  University  Library,  20,000;  the  Georgia  Historical 
Society,  16,000;  the  Macon  Public  Library,  10,000;  the  Young  Men's  Library  Association 
of  Atlanta,  12,000;  and  Mercer  University,  10,000. 

Chief  Cities. — Savannah  stands  on  a  low  bluff  over  the  deep  Savannah  River,  which 
here  forms  a  crescent  nearly  a  league  long.  It  is  one  of  the  handsomest  of  American  cities, 
embellished  with  many  embowered  public  squares  and  the  pine-shaded  Forsyth  Place,  with 
its  shell-walks  and  beautiful  fountain  (a  copy  of  that  in  the  Place  de  la  Concorde,  Paris). 
In  these  streets  the  camellias  and  oleanders  grow  as  trees,  and  the  sidewalks  are  overhung 
with  orange  and  banana  trees,  myrtles  and  bays,  magnolias  and  palmettos.  In  the  suburbs 
is  the  famous  Bonaventure  Cemetery,  roofed  in  by  the  interlacing  branches  of  live-oaks, 
draped  with  hanging  gray  moss.  Savannah  has  established  a  valuable  system  of  railroads, 
which  bring  to  her  fine  harbor  the  products  of  Georgia,  Upper  Florida,  and  much  of  Ala- 
bama and  Tennessee.  It  ships  vast  quantities  of  cotton  and  lumber,  rice  and  naval  stores, 
the  yearly  exports  exceeding  $70,000,000  in  value.  Regular  lines  of  steamboats  ply  on  the 
inland  passages  between  Savannah  and  Fernandina,  Florida ;  and  a  line  of  first-class  ocean- 
steamships  runs  to  Baltimore  and  Philadelphia,  New  York 
and  Boston.  It  should  be  remembered  that  the  very  first 
transatlantic  steamship  was  projected  and  owned  in  Savan- 
nah, and  bore  her  name ;  and  sailed  from  this  port  in  1819. 
Among  the  most  beautiful  new  buildings  in  Savannah  are 
the  grand  and  luxurious  hotel,  the  De  Soto,  and  the  pic- 
turesque court-house  of  Chatham  County. 

A  short  railway  runs  seaward  to  the  summer-village  of 
Isle  of  Hope,  on  the  Skidaway  River,  near  the  Benedictine 
negro  mission  on  Skidaway  Island,  and  the  site  of  George 
Whitefield's  Orphans'  Home.  Farther  down  is  the  sea-view- 
ing bluff  of  Montgomery,  the  headquarters  of  Georgia 
yachtsmen.  Thunderbolt,  Beach  Hammock  and  Tybee 
Island  are  other  marine  pleasuring  resorts  below  Savannah.  SAVANNAH:  BONAVENTURE  CEMETERY. 


THE  STATE   OF  GEORGIA.  189 

Augusta,  the  third  city  in  Georgia,  receives  200,000 
bales  of  cotton  yearly,  much  of  which  is  brought  in  by 
huge  six-mule  wagons.  The  city  was  laid  out  by  Gen. 
Oglethorpe,  and  named  for  an  English  princess.  It 
stands  on  a  fertile  plain  near  the  forest-bordered 
Savannah  River,  which  is  crossed  by  a  bridge  lead- 
ing to  Hamburg  (S.  C. ).  The  water-power  canals  cost 

ROME:  SHORTER  COLLEGE.  $3,ooo,ooo,  and  run  eight  completely  equipped  cotton 

mills,  with  200,000  spindles.  More  brown  goods  (or  unbleached  domestics)  are  made  here 
than  anywhere  else  in  America,  and  find  a  ready  market  in  Africa  and  China.  Green  Street, 
the  pride  of  the  city,  is  parked  for  two  miles  with  four  rows  of  stately  trees,  rivalling  the 
avenues  of  Schonbrunn.  The  city  has  eight  railways  centering  within  its  limits,  and  25  miles 
of  electric  railways. 

Atlanta  is  1,067  ^eet  above  the  sea,  and  enjoys  a  cool  and  bracing  highland  climate. 
Numerous  railways  centre  here,  and  have  caused  the  charred  ruins  of  1865  to  rise  into  a  bril- 
liant and  beautiful  modern  city,  with  fine  public  buildings  and  parks,  manifold  industrial 
enterprises,  broad  and  well-paved  and  shaded  streets,  and  a  net-work  of  mule  and  electric 
cars  reaching  far  into  the  country.  The  Piedmont  and  Capital-City  Clubs  are  the  chief  social 
organizations.  Atlanta  is  called  "The  Gate  City,"  because  it  is  the  gateway  between  the 
great  West  and  the  Atlantic  coast,  by  way  of  the  rich  cotton  belt.  Its  suburbs  are  develop- 
ing with  remarkable  rapidity  ;  lovely  wooded 
parks  are  being  improved  ;  and  handsome  resi- 
dences adorn  nearly  every  street.  There  is  a 
more  liberal  and  national  spirit  here  than  in 
any  other  Southern  city. 

Rome,  perched  up  on  the  northwestern 
highlands,  is  a  well-known  trade-centre,  cot- 
ton-depot, and  health-resort.  Maqon,  on  the 
Ocmulgee  River, has  half  a  dozen  railroads,  and 
a  great  country-trade,  and  serves  as  the  chief 
cotton-market  for  several  counties. 

Brunswick,  60  miles  from  Savannah  and  70 
miles  from  Jacksonville,  stands  on  a  peninsula  MACON  :  WESLEYAN  FEMALE  COLLEGE. 

surrounded  by  salt  water  and  sheltered  by  outer  islands.  Its  streets  are  over-arched  by 
live-oaks  and  cedars,  palmettos  and  magnolias,  and  many  Northerners  find  here  an  agree- 
able winter-resort.  The  imports  and  exports  exceed  $8,000,000  a  year ;  and  24  steamers 
visit  the  port  every  week.  This  port  is  growing  in  commercial  importance  more  rapidly 
than  any  other  on  the  Atlantic  coast,  having  quadrupled  its  population  in  ten  years.  Its 
magnificent  harbor,  deep,  spacious  and  well-sheltered,  is  the  ocean  terminus  of  the  finely 
equipped  ,  and  far-reaching  East-Tennessee,  Virginia  &  Georgia  Railroad. 

Darien  is  the  distributing  point  for  the  Altamaha,  Oconee  and  Ocmulgee, 
and  exports  over  $1,000,000  worth  of  lumber  yearly. 
Among  the  other  towns  are  West  Point,  a  place  of  cot- 
ton-mills ;  Valdosta,  productive  of  naval  stores  ;  New- 
nan,   shipping  much  cotton  ;  Milledgeville,   the  an- 
cient capital ;  Marietta,  a  favorite  health-resort,  near 
Kennesaw  Mountain  ;  Griffin,  with  mills  and  country- 
stores,  amid  cotton-fields  and  orchards ;  and  Dal- 
Kton  and  Americus,  trade-centres  for  broad  rural 
countries.     Thomasville  is  a  well-known  winter 
health-resor^;  amid  the  rolling  Piney  Woods,  350 
MACON':  "U.^MJRT-HOUSE  AND  POST-OFFICE.         feet  above  the  Gulf>  which  is   55   miles  distant, 


190 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE    UNITED   STATES. 


across  the  fertile  hills  of  Tallahassee.  The  climate  is  peculiarly  dry,  and  hence  favorable 
for  sufferers  from  pulmonary  troubles.  Eastman,  in  the  park-like  upland  pinery  of  Middle 
Georgia,  has  a  great  hotel,  for  its  health-seeking  pilgrims.  Hillman,  amid  the  high  pine- 
lands  65  miles  from  Augusta,  is  famous  for  its  great  electric  shaft,  sunk  to  a  ledge  of 
alum  rock,  and  visited  by  thousands  of  rheumatics,  who  form  electric  circuits  by  touching 
hands,  one  of  them  resting  a  hand  on  the  rock.  The  cures  wrought  by  this  simple  process 
seem  miraculous.  The  Bowden-Lithia  Springs,  near  the  Piedmont  Chautauqua,  send  out 
great  quantities  of  water  in  bottles,  and  are  provided  with  singular  hot  baths.  The  Catoosa 

Springs,  near  Ringgold,  are  iron  and  sulphur  ;  the 
f^za~~-  Madison  Springs  are  near  Athens ;  the  Bethesda 
Springs  are  29  miles  from  Gainesville  ;  the  Warm 
Springs  (90°)  on  a  spur  of  Pine  Mountain,  are 
tinctured  with  sulphur  and  iron ;  the  Red  Sulphur 
Springs  are  near  Lookout  Mountain  ;  and  the  In- 
dian Springs  (sulphur)  are  near  Griffin. 

In  1886,  Savannah  dedicated  a  statue  of  Gen. 
Nathaniel  Greene,  of  the  Continental  Army.  Two 
years  later,  she  unveiled  a  monument  to  Sergeant 

Wm.  Jasper.  An  older  monument  commemorates  Count  Pulaski,  who  was  killed  while 
leading  one  of  the  American  columns  in  the  assault  on  the  city,  in  1779.  Augusta  has  a 
granite  monument  to  the  Georgia  signers  of  the  Declaration  of  Independence,  and  a  marble 
memorial  to  the  Confederate  dead.  Atlanta  has  a  noble  statue  of  the  late  Senator  B.  H. 
Hill,  on  Peach-Tree  Street,  its  fashionable  thoroughfare. 

The  Railroads  are  controlled  by  three  commissioners,  with  caution  and  conservatism. 
The  Central  Railroad  of  Georgia  runs  from  Savannah  to  Macon,  192  miles,  and  Atlanta,  295 
miles,  and  leases  13  lines,  including  the  routes  from  Millen  to  Augusta,  53  miles ;  Gor- 
don to  Eatonton,  38  miles ;  Smithville  to  Eufaula,  Ozark  and  Montgomery ;  Fort  Valley  to 
Perry,  12  miles,  and  Columbus,  71  miles  ;  Smithville  to  Albany,  24  miles  ;  Cuthbert  to  Fort 
Gaines,  22  miles;  Macon  to  Smithville,  83  miles;  Barnesville  to  Thomaston,  16  miles;  and 
Griffin  to  Carrollton,  60  miles.  This  company  also  controls  lines  in  Alabama  and  South  Caro- 
lina. The  Savannah,  Florida  &  Western  Line  was  built  in  1853-67,  and  is  a  part  of  the  At- 
lantic Coast  Line.  It  runs  from  Savannah  to  Chattahoochee,  258  miles,  with  branches  to 
Albany  and  Monticello.  From  Waycross  to  Jacksonville,  the  distance  is  34  miles ;  and 
another  line  runs  from  Dupont  to  Live  Oak.  This  is  the  main  route  to  Florida. 

The  Piedmont  Air  Line  (or  Richmond  &  Danville  System)  from  New  York  to  the  remote 
Southwest,  is  carried  through  100  miles  of  Georgia  by  the  Atlanta  &  Charlotte  Air  Line, 
reaching  the  finest  mountain- 
scenery  in  the  State,  and  pass- 
ing near  the  celebrated  Toc- 
coa  and  Tallulah  Falls  and 
the  Nacoochee  Valley.  The 
Air  Line  is  prolonged  west- 
ward of  Atlanta  by  the  Geor- 
gia Pacific  route,  which  trav- 
erses Anniston  and  Birmingham  and  reaches  the  Mississippi  River  459  miles  from  Atlanta. 

The  East-Tennessee,  Virginia  &  Georgia  line  runs  from  Brunswick  to  Macon  and  Atlanta, 
Rome  and  Chattanooga,  431  miles.  The  189  miles  between  Brunswick  and  Macon  were 
built  in  1859-69,  at  a  cost  of  $4,000,000.  This  important  company  has  a  vast  business  on 
its  various  routes,  traversing  regions  singularly  rich  in  minerals  and  in  farm-products,  and 
reaching  the  sea  at  one  of  the  best  harbors  on  the  American  coast. 

The  Western  &  Atlantic  Railway,  138  miles  from  Atlanta  to  Chattanooga,  is  the  main 
highway  between  the  Ohio  Valley  and  the  Southern  Atlantic  coast,  and  became  the  objective 


THE  STATE   OF  GEORGIA. 


191 


point  of  Sherman's  bloody  and  victorious  campaigns  in  1864.  It  was  built  in  1850,  at  a 
cost  to  the  State  of  about  $7,000,000.  There  are  many  other  railways  in  Georgia,  of  local 
value  and  importance.  The  Ogeechee  Canal,  joining  the  Savannah  and  Ogeechee  Rivers, 
was  built  in  1829-40,  and  is  1 6  miles  long,  120  feet  wide,  and  three  feet  deep,  and  has  five 
locks.  The  Augusta  Canal  runs  from  the  Savannah  River  at  Augusta,  around  the  falls  in 
the  river.  It  was  built  in  1847,  at  a  cost  of  not  far  from  $1,500,000,  and  is  nine  miles 
long  and  eleven  feet  deep,  with  a  strong  current. 

Tallapoosa  is  a  thriving  and  prosperous  young  city  in  Haralson  County,  in  the  mountain 


tion  of  3,000  is  composed 
dwellings,  a  score  of  fac- 
city,  although  settled  50 
old,  yet  it  has  municipal 
lights  and  water- works. 


TALLAPOOSA:    GLASS-WORKS,  IRON  FURNACE,  AND  LITHIA-SPRINQS  HOTEL. 


region  of  the  northwest.  Its  popula- 
chiefly  of  Northerners.  Here  are  700 
tories,  and  50  business  houses.  The 
years  ago,  is  in  fact  only  three  years 
government  and  institutions,  electric 
Its  chief  industries  are  the  Piedmont 
Glass-Works  and  the  Tallapoosa 
Furnaces,  both  in  successful  opera- 
tion. Here  are  two  banks,  schools, 
churches  and  two  weekly  newspa- 
pers. Besides  the  three  small  hotels, 
the  Lithia-Springs  Hotel,  now  build- 
ing, will  cost  about  $100,000.  It  is  on  the  Georgia-Pacific  Railroad,  and  the  Georgia, 
Tennessee  &  Illinois  Railroad  is  under  construction.  The  recent  growth  of  Tallapoosa 
is  due  to  the  energetic  manner  in  which  it  is  being  developed  by  the  Georgia-Alabama 
Investment  &  Development  Company,  a  corporation  officered  by  a  group  of  able  men, 
whose  names  have  a  national  eminence.  But  the  future  is  based  on  the  wonderful 
resources  within  and  around  its  borders, — the  long  leaf  pine,  hard  woods,  and  charcoal 
timber ;  inexhaustible  quantities  of  steam  and  coking  coal ;  brick,  terra-cotta  and  fire-clays  ; 
building  and  glass  sand ;  clear  mountain  water ;  gold,  marble,  and  other  minerals ;  and 
a  surrounding  soil  that  is  fertile  for  vegetables,  cereals  and  cotton,  and  especially  for  profit- 
able fruit-culture.  Tallapoosa,  being  on  the  western  escarpment  of  the  Piedmont  plateau, 
and  1,200  feet  above  the  sea  level,  has  a  fine  climate,  and  is  remarkable  for  its  healthfulness. 
The  Finances  are  in  the  prosperous  condition  shown  by  the  fines  and  penalties, 
licenses  and  taxes  more  than  meeting  the  State's  expenses,  while  a  sinking-fund  is  lowering 
the  public  debt.  The  lessees  of  the  Western  &  Atlantic  Railroad  pay  $420,000  a  year  to 
the  State,  and  $25,000  a  year  is  received  for  the  hire  of  convicts.  By  the  acts  of  1879  and 
1887,  pensions  are  given  to  all  disabled  Confederate  soldiers' of  Georgia.  The  State's  val- 
uation in  1860  reached  $646,000,000.  Ten  years  later  it  had  fallen  to  $268,000,000  as 
a  result  of  the  war,  and  the  emancipation  of  myriads  of  negro  slaves. 

The  Southern  Bank  of  the  State  of  Georgia,  at  Savannah,  operates  under  a  charter 
from  the  State,  but  has  no  connection  with  it  other  than  being  one  of  its  designated  deposi- 
tories. It  was  started  in  1870,  just  when  the  South  was  beginning  to  recover  from  the 

convulsion  that  had  wrecked  nearly  all  its  finan- 
cial enterprises,  and  has  kept  pace  with  the  growth 
of  its  section,  and  is  now  one  of  the  most  import- 
ant financial  institutions  south  of  Baltimore,  and 
by  far  the  foremost  bank  in  Georgia.  Its  capital 
is  $500,000,  and  its  surplus  fund  and  undivided 
profits  $700,000,  with  deposits  of  $2,000,000  and 
gross  assets  of  $3,600,000.  Confining  its  opera- 
tions to  no  special  lines,  it  has  aided  to  develop 
each  legitimate  branch  of  business,  and  fostered 
SOUTHERN  BANK  OFwHTfTATf  OF  GEORGIA.  and  encouraged  every  industry  that  promised  to 


I92 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 


advance  the  interests  of  the  community.  An  important  feature  is  its  Department  of  Savings, 
which,  besides  encouraging  in  all  classes  habits  of  thrift  and  economy,  has  saved  from  waste 
innumerable  trifling  sums  which,  by  aggregation,  form  a  large  addition  to  Savannah  bank- 
ing capital.  As  the  development  of  the  South — great  as  it  has  been — is  only  in  its  in- 
fancy, this  institution  has  a  future  of  which  its  past,  though  successful,  is  only  an  indication. 
S.  M.  Inman  &  Co.  does  the  largest  interior  cotton  business  of  any  firm,  not  only 
in  America,  but  in  the  world.  From  a  small  beginning  of  1,500  bales  of  cotton  for  the 
year  1867  the  business  has  steadily  grown  until  now  they  handle  between  300,000  and 
400,000  bales.  Many  of  the  largest  mills  in  the  United  States  are  among  their  patrons, 
and  they  do  an  immense  domestic  business  in  the  Atlantic  States,  while  their  foreign  ship- 
ments are  growing  to  colossal  proportions.  Every  member  of  the  firm  is  thoroughly  trained 
in  the  cotton  business  by  many  years'  experience,  and  their  corps  of  assistants  number  many 
able  and  skillful  men.  The  business  in  the  Atlantic  States 
is  done  under  the  firm-name  of  S.  M.  Inman  &  Co.,  with 
headquarters  at  Atlanta,  Ga. ;  while  the  business  west  of  the 
Mississippi  River,  under  the  slightly  different  name  of  Inman 
&  Co.,  for  the  mere  sake  of  distinction,  has  its  principal 
office  at  Houston,  Texas.  They  employ  in  all  the  depart- 
ments of  their  business  some  500  men,  and  have  warehouse 
and  compress  accommodations  for  50,000  bales  of  cotton  at 
one  time.  With  ample  capital  and  unlimited  credit,  they 
are  in  the  market  throughout  the  season,  and  are  always  free 
buyers  of  cotton  to  fill  the  orders  of  their  correspondents. 

The  most  interesting  building  in  Atlanta  for  the  wayfarer          ATLANTA:  s.  M.  INMAN  &  co. 
in  the  Sunny  South  is  the  great  Kimball  House,  where  nearly  a  thousand  guests  may  be  enter- 
tained  at  once,          J^_       and  supplied  with  all  the  comforts  and  luxuries  demanded  in  this 

age  of  refinement  and  luxury.  The  original 
hotel  on  this  site  was  erected  after  the  Civil 
War,  by  an  enterprising  Northerner ;  and 
after  its  destruction  by  fire,  the  present 
house  rose  on  its  site,  for  the  benefit  of 
pleasure-travellers,  tourists  bound  for  Flor- 
ida and  New  Orleans,  prospectors  for  busi- 
ness enterprises,  and  visitors  who  find  de- 
light in  the  pure  air  of  Atlanta  and  the 
beautiful  scenery  of  the  historic  highlands 
of  Georgia.  Under  the  management  of 
Charles  Beermann  &  Co.,  the  Kimball 
House  takes  rank  among  the  best  con- 
ducted and  most  successful  hotels  of  the  whole  country.  It  is  situated  in  the  heart  of  the 
city ;  architecturally  it  is  very  attractive,  and  throughout  it  is  handsomely  furnished. 

Manufactures. — In  1880,  Georgia  factories,  capitalized  at  $20,672,410,  paid  $5,266,- 
152  to  24,875  operatives,  and  from  raw  material  valued  at  $24,143,939  made  goods  worth 
$36,440,998.  Four  years  later  the  capital  and  products  had  doubled,  with  great  cotton 
mills  at  Columbus,  Augusta,  Atlanta,  Macon,  Athens,  West  Point  and  Decatur;  32 
woolen-mills;  $20,000,000  in  iron  and  steelworks;  and  $10,000,000  in  flour  and  meal 
mills.  The  prosperous  manufacturing  enterprises  of  Georgia  have  risen  since  the  war, 
favored  by  admirable  water-powers,  cheap  labor,  exemption  from  taxation,  easy  transport 
by  rail  or  river,  and  the  presence  on  the  ground  of  cotton  and  wool,  coal  and  iron.  The 
manufacture  of  cotton  goods  employs  10,000  hands,  8,000  looms,  340,000  spindles,  and 
produces  $25,000,000  yearly,  from  100,000  bales  of  cotton.  Savannah  makes  parlor  and 
sleeping  and  box  cars.  Atlanta  has  large  street-car  works  and  cotton-mills. 


ATLANTA  :    KIMBALL    HOUSE. 


22,636 
9,974 
21,818 
10,792 
84,385 
0.4 


14,795 

10,262 


Idaho  lay  hidden  beyond 

the  Plains  and  RockyMoun- 

tains  for  centuries  after  the 

settlement    of    the    East, 

unregarded  and  unknown, 

except  by  the  adventurers 

of  the  Hudson-Bay  Com- 
pany.     It  is   hard   to    tell 

how  it  came  to  be  a  part  of 

the  Union,  whether  as  a  fragment  of  the  Louisiana  pur- 
chase or  as  a  section  of  the  Oregon  Country.  The  first 
white  men  in  Idaho  were  Lewis  and  Clark's  exploring 
party,  in  1805-6,  followed  by  the  Missouri  Fur  Company 
and  the  Pacific  Fur  Company;  by  Capt.  Bonneville,  in  1834 ; 
and  by  missionaries.  In  1834  N.  J.  Wyeth  founded  Fort 
Hall,  which  was  an  important  point  in  emigrant  days,  being 
at  the  crossing  of  the  Missouri-Oregon  and  Utah-Canada 
trails.  The  Territory  of  Idaho  was  formed  in  1863,  from 
irts  of  Washington,  Dakota,  and  Nebraska,  and  then  in- 
cluded the  present  Idaho  and  Montana  and  most  of  Wyom- 
ing. Attention  was  called  to  this  mountain-walled  solitude 
in  1860,  when  thousands  of  Californian  miners  flocked  into 
it,  after  the  discovery  of  gold  on  Oro-Fino  Creek.  These 
adventurers  aroused  the  hostility  of  the  Indians,  who 
fought  them  at  many  points,  and  the  defiles  of  Owyhee  and 
Salmon  River  often  echoed  with  the  terrible  war-whoop. 
The  U.  -S.  troops  were  withdrawn  to  fight  for  the  Union,  and 
this  region  was  defended  by  the  First  Oregon  Cavalry.  In 
1 883-84  occurred  the  Cceur-d'Alene  stampede,  when  5,000 
gold-hunters  crossed  the  terrible  snows  of  the  mountains. 
The  Name  of  Idaho  is  Indian  in  origin,  and  is  said 
to  mean  "The  Light  on  the  Mountains,"  applied  to  the 
lustrous  view  of  the  snowy  peaks  at  sunrise.  Joaquin 
Miller  says  that  the  Indians  pronounced  it  E-daft-hoe. 
Three  names,  Shoshone,  Montana  and  Idaho,  were  submitted  to  Congress,  and  the  latter  was 
chosen,  through  the  insistance  of  Geo.  B.  Walker,  of  Idaho,  and  Senator  Wilson,  of  Mas- 
sachusetts. The  Shoshones  had  a  legend  of  a  bright  object  falling  from  the  skies,  and 


Settled  at  .... 
Settled  in  .... 
Founded  by  ... 
Admitted  as  a  State, 
Population,  in  1870,  . 
In  1880,  .... 

White 

Colored,     .     .     . 

American-born, 

Foreign-born,      . 

Males 

Females, 

In  1890  (U.  S.  Census),      .     . 
Population  to  the  square  mile, 


Fort  Hall. 
.  .  1834 
Americans. 
.  .  1890 
•  •  14,959 
.  .  32,610 
.  .  29,013 


Voting  Population  (1880), 

Vote  for  Governor  in  1890 
(Rep.),    ...... 

Vote  for  Governor  in  1850 
(Dem.),  .......      7,948 

Net  Territorial  Debt,   .     .     $200,855 
Taxable  Property,    .     .     $26,000,000 
Area  (square  miles),     .    .     .     84,800 
U.  S.  Representatives  (1893),  i 

Militia  (Disciplined),     ...          334 
Counties,      .......  18 

Post-offices,      ......          282 

Railroads  (miles),     ....          844 

Manufactures  (yearly), 
Farm  Land  (in  acres),  . 

Farm  Population,      . 

Farm-  Land  Values,  . 
Colleges 
Public  Schools 

School  Children,   .. 
Newspapers, 
Latitude, 


$1,200,000 
.  328,000 
. 

$2,800,000 
i 

365 

.  10,433 
,  46 


3o°2i/  to  25° 
Longitude,  .     .    8o°48'  to  85040'  W. 
Temperature,  .     .     .       —  38°  to  115° 
Mean  Temperature   (Fort 
Boise;,  ........  52°  46' 

TEN  CHIEF  CITIES  AND  THEIR  POPU- 
LATIONS.    (Census  of  1890.) 


Boise  City,  . 
Montpelier, 
Weiser,    .    . 
Paris,  .    .    . 
Bellevue,      . 
Wallace,      . 
Lewiston,     .     , 
Caldwell,     . 
Grangeville, 
Cceur-d'Alene, 


2,311 
1,174 
901 
893 
892 
878 
849 
779 
540 
491 


1 94 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


EMIGRANT    TEAM   AT   WATER. 


resting  on  a  mountain,  forever  shining,  but  for- 
ever inaccessible,  even  to  the  bravest  warriors 
and  hunters.  This  they  called  Idaho. 

The  Arms  of  Idaho  bear  a  view  of  the 
Snake  River,  with  the  Owyhee  Mountains  on 
the  left,  and  the  Pannock  and  Bannock  Moun- 
tains on  the  right.  The  crest  is  a  full-antlered 
elk's  head.  The  motto  is  ESTO  PERPETUA 
("Let  it  endure  forever"). 

The  Governors  have  been  :  Wm.  H.  Wal- 
lace, 1863-4;  Caleb  Lyon,  1864-6;  David  W. 
Ballard,  1866-7;  Samuel  Bard,  1870;  Oilman  Marston,  1870-1;  Alex.  Connor,  1871; 
Thos.  M.  Bowen,  1871;  Thos.  W.  Bennett,  1871-6;  Mason  Brayman,  1876-80;  John  B. 
Neil,  1880-3;  John  N.  Irwin,  1883  ;  Wm.  N.  Bunn,  1884-5;  E(iw-  A-  Stevenson,  1885-9; 
Geo.  L.  Shoup,  1889-90;  and  N.  B.  Willey  (acting),  1890-92. 

Descriptive.  —  Idaho  has  been  likened  in  shape  to  a  great  chair,  with  the  Rocky  and 
Bitter-Root  Ranges  as  its  front,  seat  and  back.  It  also  nearly  resembles  a  right-angled  tri- 
angle, whose  hypothenuse  is  the  Bitter-Root  Range.  The  streams  flow  to  the  Pacific, 
except  Bear  River,  which  enters  the  Great  Salt  Lake.  It  is  the  twelfth  American  common- 
wealth in  area,  being  larger  than  all  New-England, 
and  about  equal  to  Pennsylvania  and  Ohio  united. 
Utah  and  Nevada  are  on  the  south ;  Wyoming  and 
Montana,  east ;  British  Columbia,  north  ;  and  Wash- 
ington and  Oregon,  west.  The  straight  western 
frontier  is  more  than  400  miles  long ;  the  southern, 
300;  the  northern,  50,  and  the  eastern  border  runs 
due  north  for  130  miles,  and  then  follows  the 
Rocky  Mountains  northwest.  The  mean  elevation 
is  4,700  feet,  the  surfaces  being  greatly  diversified, 
from  the  confluence  of  the  Snake  and  Clearwater 
Rivers,  676  feet  above  the  sea,  to  the  summits  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  high  above  the  snow-line.  It  is  a  vast  wedge-shaped  table-land,  rising 
from  the  west  to  a  height  of  10,000  feet  in  the  east,  and,  as  Prof.  Hayden  says  :  "Literally 
crumpled  or  rolled  up  in  one  continuous  series  of  mountain  ranges,  fold  after  fold."  The 
great  Wahsatch  and  Rocky  Mountains  extend  along  the  southeast,  and  a  small  part  of  the 
Yellowstone  National  Park  is  in  Idaho.  The  Bitter-Root  Mountains  begin  near  Gibbon's 
Pass,  and  run  northwest  to  the  headwaters  of  the  St.  Joseph,  beyond  which  the  Divide  is 
prolonged  by  the  Coeur-d'Alene  Range.  Central  Idaho  is  a  great  mass  of  wild  sierras, 
among  which  the  Salmon-River  and  Clearwater  Mountains  extend  for  long  distances,  and 
the  Sawtooth  Range  lifts  its  sharp  rocky  spires. 
Among  these  ridges  are  park-like  valleys  like 
the  Camas  Prairie,  with  500  square  miles  of  roll- 
ing farm-lands ;  the  Payette  Valley,  abounding 
in  grain  and  cattle ;  and  part  of  the  famous  grain- 
bearing  Palouse  country,  about  Genesee.  Boise 
Valley,  sixty  miles  long,  is  a  rich  farming  and 
mining  country,  sheltered  by  the  Boise  Moun- 
tains, and  with  large  areas  reclaimed  by  the  canals 
of  the  Idaho  Mining  &  Irrigation  Company.  In 
the  east,  the  Lemhi  Valley,  seventy  miles  long 
and  four  to  six  miles  wide,  is  famous  for  its  crops 
and  dairies.  The  Pahsamari  Valley,  twenty-five  CABINET  GORGE,  CLARK'S  FORK. 


GREAT    CANON    OF  THE   SALMON    RIVER. 


THE  STATE   OF  IDAHO. 


195 


PORT-NEUF  VALLEY. 


miles  long,  has  great  herds  of  cattle.  In  northern  Idaho 
are  the  St.  -Joseph's  and  Potlatch  Valleys,  and  North  Camas 
Prairie ;  and  eastern  Idaho  has  in  the  Salt- River,  Bear- 
River,  North-Fork,  South  Fork,  Blackfoot  and  Rome  Val- 
leys a  thousand  square  miles  of  good  soil. 

The  Surveyor-General  divides  Idaho  into  25,000,000  acres 
of  grazing  lands,  10,000,000  acres  of  forests,  13,000,000 
acres  of  farm-lands,  and  8,000,000  acres  of  sage-brush 
plains.  Much  of  southern  Idaho  is  a  dry  and  black  lava 
desert,  400  miles  long  and  50  miles  wide,  cut  deep  down, 
I,ooo  feet  or  more,  by  the  sheer  canons  of  the  Snake  River  and  other  streams,  and  by  many 
great  crevasses.  The  northern  part  of  the  plain  has  a  wonderfully  weird  appearance,  as  of  a 
black  sea  suddenly  turned  to  stone.  The  soil  elsewhere  in  the  valley  is  sandy  and  un- 
stable, and  the  chief  vegetation  is  enormous  sage-brush  and  bunch-grass,  but  irrigation  is 
redeeming  it  for  farming.  Within  the  bend  of  the  Snake  River  is  an  immense  basaltic 
plain,  out  of  which  rise  the  granite  crests  of  the  Three  Buttes,  famous  landmarks  for  over- 
land emigrants.  South  of  the  Snake  the  valleys  and  foot-hills  contain  bunch-grass  and 
arable  bottom-lands,  alternating  with  abrupt  ranges  of  mountains,  which  are  dotted  with  a 
few  evergreens  and  aspens.  The  beautiful  Malade,  Cache,  Gentile,  Bear- River  and  other 
valleys  open  away  into  the  Utah  basin,  and  are  occupied  by  Mormon  hamlets,  around  which 
extend  broad  farms,  with  efficient  irrigation  systems.  The  Bear-Lake  country  has  a  moun- 
tain of  sulphur,  and  deposits  of  lead  and  coal.  The  latter  is 
also  mined  on  Irwin  Creek  and  at  Lewiston.  Close  to  Bear 
River  is  the  health-resort  of  Soda  Springs,  with  its  alterative 
and  tonic  iron,  sulphur  and  magnesia  waters,  sparkling,  effer- 
vescent and  pleasant,  and  highly  charged  with  carbonic-acid 
gas.  One  of  these  fountains  Fremont  named  the  Steamboat 
Spring,  on  account  of  its  measured  puffs  of  steam.  In  this 
vicinity  are  sulphur  lakes,  a  deep  ice-cave,  and  the  beautiful 
Swan  Lake.  The  most  famous  springs  are  the  Mammoth, 
Hooper  and  Ninety-Per-Cent ;  and  there  are  also  mud,  hot, 
ammonia,  and  gas  springs.  The  waters  are  5,779  feet  above 
the  sea,  among  the  Wahsatch  Mountains,  in  a  pure  and  dry  air,  of  great  benefit  to  con- 
sumptives. They  were  a  favorite  resort  of  Brigham  Young,  and  many  Salt-Lake  Mormons 
frequent  them  now ;  and  other  well-to-do  persons  have  built  summer-cottages.  The  large 
hotel  is  called  the  Idanha.  About  500,000  gallons  of  water  are  bottled  every  year. 

Bear  Lake  is  a  magnificent  oval,  twenty  by  eight  miles,  whose  deep  and  mountain-fed 
waters  abound  in  trout  and  mullet,  and  ripple  up  sandy  shores  below  Paris,  Montpelier 
and  other  peaceful  Mormon  villages.  The  valley  is  5,900  feet  above  the  sea,  and  Bear 
Lake  remains  ice-bound  from  January  to  April.  Southwestern  Idaho  is  occupied  by  a 
dreary  alkali  desert,  out  of  which  rise  the  Owyhee  Mountains,  famous  for  their  silver-mines. 
There  are  10,000,000  acres  of  forest  in  Idaho,  producing  a  vast  and  valuable  timber-supply. 

= White-pine  logs  100  feet  long  and  five  feet  thick 

!  have  been  cut  on  the  Clearwater.  In  the  south 
i  the  forests  are  mainly  along  the  highlands,  but 
I  in  the  north  they  cover  the  entire  country,  and 
include  valuable  tracts  of  red  cedar,  lodge-pole 
and  yellow  pines,  and  great  spruces. 

The  lakes  of  Idaho  are  its  most  beautiful  fea- 
tures.    Lake  Pend  'Oreilles  is  thirty  miles  long 
and  from  three  to  fifteen  miles  wide,  studded 
LAKE  PEND  'OREILLES.  witn  green  islands,  and  surrounded  by  Granite 


SCENE  ON  SNAKE  RIVER. 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF'  THE    UNITED   STATES. 


Mountain,  the  snowy  Pack-Saddle  Range,  the  purple  Cceur-d'Alene  Mountains,  and  other 
peaks,  nearly  10,000  feet  high.  The  scenery  has  been  likened  to  that  of  the  world-re- 
nowned Konigs-See,  in  Bavaria.  The  lake  has  250  miles  of  shore-line,  and  is  navigated  by 
several  small  steamboats.  The  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  follows  the  north  shore  for  twenty- 
five  miles,  and  has  a  summer-hotel  at  Hope.  This  fine  inland  sea  abounds  in  trout,  gray- 


ling and  char ;  and  game-birds, 
and  white-tailed  deer,  moose, 
forests.  Cceur-d'Alene  Lake 
the  Cceur-d'Alene  Mountains, 
E,  with  its  branches  pointing 
lonely  shores  are  clad  with 
The  expanse  is  twenty-five 
four  miles  wide,  with  a 
wild  Windermere  of  clear, 
abounding  in  trout  and 
with  millions  of  white- 
St.  Joseph  River  flows  into 
navigable  for  twenty-five 
the  Cceur-d'Alene  River 
the  steamboats  to  Old  Mis- 


black  and  cinnamon  bears,  mule 
elk,  and  caribou  dwell  in  the 
fills  a  wide  gorge  in  the  spurs  of 
and  bears  the  form  of  a  letter 
southeast.  Its  irregular  and 
forests  of  pine  and  tamarack, 
miles  long  and  from  one  to 
depth  reaching  180  feet,  a 
cold,  light  -  green  water, 
other  fish,  and  stocked 
fish.  The  mountain-born 
its  southern  bay,  and  is 
miles ;  and  five  miles  below 
enters,  ascended  daily  by 
sion,  thirty-five  miles  up, 


whence  a  narrow-gauge  railway  ]^l/r"Yff^4!;/^Mj|;,;:|||  runs  to  Mullan  and  Burke,  in 
the  mining  country.  The  lake  I  ^^^n^^S^^!^-1  \  is  agitated  at  evening  by  mys- 
terious swells,  like  the  seiches  UT*™^^  «irw.i^—  -  JUjj  on  Lak:e  Geneva.  The  Spo- 

,  T>  •  13  r      •  SHOSHONE   FALLS.  ,  j  j 

kane    River   flows    out   of    its  northern    end,    and    runs    100 

miles  west  to  the  Columbia,  like  a  great  canal.  Farther  north,  under  the  lonely  Cabinet 
Mountains,  in  a  land  inhabited  mainly  by  caribou,  deer  and  bears,  Lake  Kanik-su  covers  200 
square  miles.  This  remote  locality,  forty  miles  from  the  railway,  is  visited  only  by  hunters, 
trappers  and  prospectors.  Henry  Lake  and  Cliff  Lake,  in  the  southeast,  are  surrounded  by 
the  high  peaks  and  basaltic  cliffs  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  each  being  above  a  league  long. 
The  clear,  cold  unfathomed  depths  of  the  Payette  Lakes  (one  of  which  is  ten  by  two  miles) 
lie  at  the  head  of  the  beautiful  Long  Valley. 

The  chief  river  is  the  Snake,  called  by  the  Indians  the  Shoshone,  and  by  the  early  ex- 
plorers Lewis's  Fork  of  the  Columbia.  It  is  a  rapid  stream,  running  for  a  thousand  miles 
in  Idaho,  and  draining  nearly  two  thirds  of  its  territory,  receiving  many  large  tributaries, 
like  the  Salmon,  Port-Neuf,  Wood,  Boise,  Owyhee,  Weiser,  and  Clearwater,  from  the  Idaho 
side,  and  many  others  from  Oregon.  These  are  valuable  for  mining  and  irrigation,  but 
cannot  be  navigated,  except  the  Clearwater.  The  Salmon  River  is  450  miles  long,  traversing 
a  wild  and  picturesque  valley.  Around  the  headwaters  of  the  Snake,  near  Yellowstone  Park, 
there  are  rich  bottoms,  followed  by  150  miles  of  valley-lands.  The  American  Falls  are 
forty  feet  high,  plunging  over  a  lava  stairway ;  and  the 
Oregon  Short  Line  crosses  the  river  amid  their  roar 
and  spray.  Below  Goose  Creek  the  Snake  enters  a 
profound  canon,  within  whose  gloomy  depths  it  flows 
for  seventy  miles.  In  this  chasm  the  river  sweeps 
through  a  group  of  five  volcanic  islands,  amid  which 
occur  several  cascades  ;  and  then  forms  the  magnificent 
Shoshone  Falls,  descending  in  full  volume,  950  feet 
wide,  over  a  semi-circular  cliff  225  feet  high,  torn  by 
projecting  rocks  of  jetty  lava  into  cataracts  of  white 
foam  and  rainbow-crossed  spray.  At  times  the  vol- 
ume of  water  nearly  equals  that  of  Niagara,  and  the  fall 
is  one  third  higher.  Richardson  calls  it  "a  cataract  TWIN  FALLS  :  SNAKE  RIVER. 


THE  STATE   OF  IDAHO. 


197 


FERRY    AT   SHOSHONE    FALLS. 


of  snow  with  an  avalanche  of  jewels,  amid 
solemn  portals  of  lava,  unrivalled  in  the  world 
save  by  Niagara."  This  remarkable  locality 
is  twenty-five  miles  from  the  railway,  by  a  stage- 
route  over  the  olive  and  gray  desert ;  and  has  a 
hotel  for  tourists.  The  Twin  Falls  of  the 
Snake  River  (150  feet  high)  are  three  miles 
above  the  Shoshone  Falls.  Forty-five  miles 
below  the  river  plunges  over  the  Salmon  Falls. 
The  Snake  is  navigable  from  a  few  miles  above 
the  Boise  River  to  Powder  River,  100  miles  below. 

The  Hailey  Hot  Springs,  high  up  in  the  Wood-River  Valley,  are  strongly  mineralized, 
and  have  a  temperature  of  144°,  with  a  large  hotel,  and  luxurious  bathing  facilities,  sur- 
rounded by  a  beautiful  park.  Similar  accommodations  are  provided  at  the  Guyer  Hot 
Springs  (150°),  near  Ketchum ;  and  the  Boise  Hot  Springs. 

The  Panhandle  is  traversed  by  Clark's  Fork,  and  the  Kootenai  and  Spokane  Rivers, 
affording  attractive  scenery.  At  Post  Falls,  on  the  Spokane,  the  deep,  still  river  falls 
eighteen  feet,  and  forty  feet  in  rapids,  making  a  valuable  water-power  for  the  lumber-region 
hereabouts. 

The  Climate  varies  greatly,  and  the  perpetual  snows  of  the  mountain-walls  look  down 
on  lovely  temperate  valleys,  dry  and  equable,  and  warmed  by  the  winds  from  the  Black 
Current  of  Japan.  The  plains  have  cold  and  bracing  winters,  between  the  severe  climate 
of  the  mountains  and  the  mildness  of  the  valleys.  The  summers  are  cool  and  pleasant. 
People  with  consumption  and  malaria,  asthma  and  general  debility,  find  this  highly  oxygen- 
ated air  beneficial.  Cyclones  and  floods  are  unknown  here,  and  sunstroke  and  hydrophobia 
are  equally  strangers.  Lewiston  has  a  milder  climate  than  Iowa,  Ohio  or  New  Hampshire ; 
and  the  higher  placed  Boise  City  is  warmer  than  Connecticut  The  sunshiny  days  number 
260  in  each  year.  •*„ 

Agriculture  in  southern  Idaho  is  based  on  irrigation,  which  causes  oases  of  verdure  to 

spring  up  in    the   arid   desert.      In   northern 

Idaho  irrigation  is  not  essential.  The  farmers 
find  good  markets  in  the  mining  camps. 
Among  their  products  are  over  1,500,000 
bushels  of  wheat  and  1,300,000  bushels  of 
oats  yearly,  with  large  crops  of  barley  and 


SHEEP-SHEARING   CORRALS. 

potatoes,  530,000  tons  of  hay,  and  $1,000,- 
ooo  worth  of  fruits.  Flax,  rye,  alfalfa,  sor- 
ghum, and  huge  vegetables  are  produced 
abundantly.  The  unfilled  plains  are  rich  in 
wild  fruits,  and  flowers  of  great  brilliance  and 
beauty.  The  Mormons  of  the  south  also 
raise  large  crops  of  cereals.  The  grazing  capabilities  are  availed  of  by  600,000  horses  and 
cattle,  and  350,000  sheep,  yielding  2,000,000  pounds  of  wool  yearly.  They  winter  in  the 
open  air  and  fatten  on  bunch-grass  and  white  sage. 

Mining  has  been  hampered  by  the  remoteness  of  the  railroads,  yet  some  of  the  richest 
placers  and  veins  in  America  are  worked  here  ;  and  the  Rocky-Mountain  range  for  400  miles 
abounds  in  gold  and  silver.  Gold  was  discovered  as  early  as  1852 ;  and  again  on  Oro-Fino 


TOCK  RANCHE. 


BRANDING   CATTLE. 


HANDBOOK  OF  THE  UNITED  STA  TES. 

Creek  in  1860;  at  Boise,  in  1862;  and  in  the  Owyhee 
Mountains  in  1863.  The  State  has  produced  above 
$160,000,000  in  the  precious  metals.  The  early  pro- 
ducts came  mainly  from  the  gold  placers,  by  sluice  and 
hydraulic  methods.  The  "flour  gold,"  of  the  river- 
sands,  was  so  fine  that  it  had  to  be  separated  by  slowly 
running  it  over  mercury-covered  electro-plated  sheets 
of  silver.  Owyhee  County,  larger  than  Massachusetts, 
has.  the  Oro-Fino,  Poorman  and  other  gold  and  sil- 
ver mines,  very  rich  in  ore,  but  expensive  to  work. 
The  Wood-River  district  of  Alturas  County  produces 
several  million  dollars'  worth  of  silver-bearing  lead 
yearly,  and  considerable  gold,  with  a  dozen  concentrators  and  a  score  of  smelting  works  and 
mills ;  and  has  numerous  mining-villages,  toward  the  Sawtooth  Mountains.  The  placers  of 
Snake  River  and  the  silver-lodes  about  Boise  and  Atlanta  are  also  worked  with  profit.  The 
Leesburg  district  has  produced  $7,000,000  in  placer-gold;  and  Lemhi  County  has  rich 
regions  of  gold  quartz  and  silver  carbonates.  The  Custer-County  mines  have  produced 
over  $10,000,000,  from  the  Custer,  Charles-Dick- 
ens, Bay-Horse,  and  other  lofty  mountain-mines. 
The  Warren  and  Elk-City  districts  of  Idaho 
County  have  many  gold  and  silver  mines.  The 
Cceur-d'Alene  region  has  developed  placer-gold, 
with  great  silver  and  lead  mines  along  the  South 
Fork  and  the  Bitter-Root  Mountains.  Thousands 
of  miners  are  at  work  here.  Ledges  of  free-mill- 
ing chloride  of  silver  were  discovered  in  1888, 
south  of  Lake  Pend  'Oreilles ;  and  there  are  gold- 
mines along  Clark's  Fork.  The  Peacock  copper-mines  are  near  the  Snake  River,  and 
4,000  feet  above  it,  and  the  other  wonderful  deposits  of  the  Seven-Devils  region  are  now 
coming  into  notice.  The  Lost-River  copper  mines  are  very  rich.  Iron  has  been  found  at 
many  points.  There  are  large  mica  deposits  on  the  Middle  Weiser,  and  elsewhere.  The 
Goose-Creek  valley  has  mines  of  coal,  or  brown  lignite.  Marble  is  quarried  on  the  Snake, 
and  large  deposits  of  it  occur  elsewhere.  Granite,  limestone  and  sandstone  are  also  found. 
The  Oneida  Salt  Works  have  produced  2,000,000  pounds  a  year  of  the  purest  and  whitest 
salt,  made  by  boiling  the  water  which  flows  freely  from  saline  springs  near  the  Old  Lander 
Emigrant  Road. 

The  Government  lies  in  the  hands  of  a  governor  and  executive  officers,  and  a  biennial 
legislature.  There  are  eighteen  senators  and  thirty-six  representatives.  The  Capitol  was 
erected  in  1885-7,  in  the  centre  of  a  square  given  by  Boise  City,  a  pleasant  tree-shaded 
town  in  a  rich  fruit  country.  This  is  the  social  centre  of  the  State,  and  the  quaint  norias 

or  water-wheels  in  front  of  its  cottages  pour  re- 
freshing streams  into  the  gardens.  Near  the  city  is 
the  beautiful  and  secluded  Cottonwood  Canon. 
The  1 20  local  convicts  are  kept  in  the  United- 
States  Penitentiary,  two  miles  east  of  Boise  City. 
The  Insane  Asylum  at  Blackfoot  has  about  fifty 
inmates. 

The  public  schools  are  supported  by  local  taxa- 
tion, and  endowed  with  two  sections  of  land  in  each 
township.      Much  opposition  has  been  made  to  the 
schools  in  the  Mormon  counties  of  the  South.     The 
" THE  POORMAN,"  CCEUR-D>ALENE  MINING  DISTRICT.       State  University  at  Moscow  has  a  valuable  land- 


*  M  ujb* 


COWBOYS    NOONING. 


i99 


PROSPECTORS 


THE  STATE  OF  IDAHO. 

\  rant.     Wilbur  College  at  Lewiston,  is  a 

.lethodist    school,    with   sixty-seven   stud- 

nts  ;  and  there  are  other  sectarian  schools. 

Idaho  has  48   Mormon  churches,  with 

137  high  priests,   and  15, ooo  members;    7 

Catholic  churches,   and  7   Presbyterian,   9 

)  •  episcopalian  and  5  Baptist  churches. 

The   first   printing   press   west    of    the 

Kooky  Mountains,  and  north  of  California, 

;  :,vas  given  by  the  Protestant  native  church 

|J3f  the  Sandwich  Islands,  and  set  up  in  1836  at  the  Lapwai  Mission, 
Idaho,  for  printing  books  in  the  Nez-Perce  language.  Idaho  now 
!has  thirty-seven  newspapers,  three  of  which  are  daily. 

Fort  Sherman  was  established  by  Gen.  Sherman  at  the  north  end  of  the  beautiful  Coeur- 

d'Alene  Lake,   ten  miles  from  Rathdrum  station,  and  is  an  eight-company  post.     Boise 

.  i  Barracks  is  a  two-company  post,  not  far  from  the  Capitol,  with  handsome  stone  buildings, 

on  a  reservation  a  mile  square.      The  United-States  Assay  Office  occupies  a  massive  stone 

building  at  Boise  City. 

Paris,  on  Bear  Lake,  5,836  feet  above  the  sea,  is  the  capital  of  the  Mormon  settlements 
made  in  1863,  and  has  a  many-colored  granite  Mormon  Tabernacle,  the  finest  church  in 

Idaho.  Silver  City  is  the  metropolis  of  the 
Owyhee  silver-mines.  Murray  nestles  in  a 
deep  ravine,  near  the  famous  Dream  Gulch. 
Florence,  6,265  ^eet  above  the  sea,  is  one  of 
the  loftiest  villages  in  the  State. 

Railroads. —  The  long  valleys  of  Idaho 
furnish  available  routes  for  railways,  of  which 
there  are  800  miles  in  operation,  although  in 
1876  not  a  rail  had  been  laid.  The  Oregon 
Short  Line  runs  for  481  miles  in  Idaho, 
through  the  Bear-Lake  country,  down  the 
savage  Port-Neuf  Canon,  across  Snake  River 

and  its  illimitable  lava-beds,  and  through  the  fruit  country  from  the  Malade  to  the  Weiser. 
A  branch  line  runs  from  Shoshone  to  Ketchum  (sixty-nine  miles) ;  and  the  Idaho  Central 
runs  from  Nampa  to  Boise  City.  The  Utah  &  Northern,  one  of  the  most  important  nar- 
row-gauge railways  in  the  world  (454  miles  long),  traverses  the  eastern  side  of  Idaho  for 
206^  miles,  crossing  the  Oregon  Short  Line  at  Pocatello,  and  ascending  the  Snake  valley 
many  leagues,  after  which  it  climbs  the  Rockies  to  Monida,  and  traverses  Montana  to  the 
Northern  Pacific  Railroad.  Its  southern  terminus  is  at  Qgden,  Utah,  on  the  Union  Pacific 
Railway,  which  owns  a  majority  of  its  stock.  The  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  crosses 
northern  Idaho  from  Heron  to  Hauser.  A  branch  leads  from  Hauser  Junction  to  Cceur- 
d'Alene  City,  thirty-three  miles,  whence 
steamboats  run  to  Old  Mission,  connect- 
ing with  a  railway  to  Mullan  and  Burke, 
and  to  Missoula,  Montana.  Another 
branch  reaches  Genesee.  The  Great 
Northern  Railway  is  being  built  across 
Northern  Idaho. 

Steamboats  run  on  the  Snake  be- 
tween Lewiston  and  Riparia ;  on  the 
Lower  Clearwater,  from  Lewiston  to 
the  North  Fork ;  and  on  the  Coeur- 


200 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


LAKE  PEND  'OREILLES   MISSION. 


d'Alene  Lake  and  River.     Two  steamboats  run  on  Lake  Pend  'Oreilles.     Stages  traverse 
the  roads  in  every  direction. 

The  flour-mills  and  lumber-mills  of  Idaho  produce  over  $1,000,000  yearly,  and  formj 
its  chief  manufacturing  interests,  outside  of  the  production  of  bullion. 

The  Shoshones,  or  Snake  Indians,  are  a  peaceable  and  industrious  tribe,  good  horsemen 
and  hunters,  and  now  turning  to  agriculture.  The  Lemhi  Reservation  of  106,000  acres 
and  the  Fort-Hall  Reservation  of  1,200,000  acres  (with  an  industrial  school),  are  set  apart 
for  the  Shoshones  and  their  offshoot  tribes,  the  brave  but  uncivilized  Bannocks,  and  the 
barbaric  Sheep-eaters.  There  are  2,200  Indians  at  these  agencies.  The  western  Shoshone 
Reservation,  in  Owyhee,  has  400  inhabitants.  The  Shoshones  and  Nez  Perces  have  been 
among  the  firmest  friends  of  the  Americans.  The  Sahaptins  were  called  Nez  Perces  by  the 
French  voyageurs,  from  Nez  Pres,  "Flat-Noses,"  or  perhaps  because  they  pierced  their  nos- 
trils to  receive  shell-ornaments.  In  1855  they  divided  into  the  Treaty  and  Non-Treaty 
tribes,  one  settling  on  the  Lapwai  Reservation  and  the  other 
roaming  free.  In  1877  an  attempt  was  made  to  force  the 
Non-Treaties  to  live  at  Lapwai,  but  under  Chief  Joseph's  lead 
they  defeated  Col.  Perry  in  White-Bird  Canon ;  gave  Gen. 
Howard  a  long  day's  battle  on  the  Clearwater ;  crossed  the  Bitter- 
Root  Mountains ;  defeated  Gen.  Gibbon ;  recrossed  to  Horse 
Prairie ;  surprised  Howard's  camp  and  stampeded  his  horses ; 
then  entered  the  Yellowstone  Park,  and  endeavored  to  reach 
Canada.  One  band  succeeded,  but  the  main  body  suffered 
capture  at  the  Sweet-Grass  Hills,  in  Montana,  and  were  taken 
to  Leavenworth  and  Indian  Territory.  Seven  years  later  most 
of  them  returned  to  Lapwai  and  the  Colville  Reservation. 
There  are  1,200  Nez  Perces  here,  with  schools  and  farms,  on  a  fertile  reservation  of 
746,651  acres.  In  1889  Special- Agent  Alice  S.  Fletcher  began  to  allot  the  land  to  them  in 
severally.  The  Skizoomish  Indians  were  named  by  the  early  French  voyageurs  Awl- Hearts 
("Coeur-d'Alene"),  indicating  that  their  spirits  were  small  and  hard,  as  shown  by  their 
shrewdness  in  trade.  In  1820  they  numbered  2,000,  but  there  are  only  250  left  now, 
although  the  tribe  has  never  been  at  war  with  the  United  States.  They  are  self-supporting 
farmers,  educating  their  children  at  the  nuns'  schools,  and  attending  the  Catholic  Mission 
of  the  Sacred  Heart,  founded  in  1841.  Their  reservation  covers  600,000  acres,  near  Coeur- 
d'Alene  Lake.  The  Kootenais  in  the  north,  are  reputed  to  be  gentle  and  honest,  but  poor 
and  lazy. 

"  It  was  the  common  judgment  of  the  first  explorers  that  there  was  more  of  strange  and 
awful  in  the  scenery  and  topography  of  Idaho  than  of  the  pleasing  and  attractive.  A  more 
intimate  acquaintance  with  the  less  conspicuous  features  of  the  country  revealed  many 
beauties.  The  climate  of  the  valleys  was  found  to  be  far  milder  than  from  their  elevation 

t  could  have  been  expected.  Picturesque  lakes 
were  discovered  nestled  among  the  mountains,  or 
furnishing  in  some  instances  navigable  waters. 
Fish  and  game  abound.  Fine  forests  of  pine  and 
fir  cover  the  mountain-slopes,  except  in  the  lava 
region ;  and  nature  even  in  this  phenomenal  part 
of  her  domain,  had  not  forgotten  to  prepare  the 
earth  for  the  occupation  of  man,  nor  neglected 
to  give  him  a  wondrously  warm  and  fertile  soil  to 
compensate  for  the  labor  of  subduing  the  savagery 
of  her  apparently  waste  places." 

LAKE    CCEUR  D'ALENE.  HUBERT     HOWE    BANCROFT. 


Kaskaskia. 
.  .  1720 

Frenchmen. 
.  1818 
1,711,951 
2,539,891 
3,077,871 
3,031,151 
.  46,720 
2,494,295 
•  583,576 
1,586,523 
1,491,348 
3,826,351 


HISTORY. 

In  the  dawn  of  its  his- 
tory Illinois  is  seen  thinly 
populated  by  tribes  of  sav- 
ages, forever  at  war,  and 
wreaking  upon  each  other 
the  most  horrible  tortures. 
The  Illinois  were  a  con- 
federacy of  Algonquin  In- 
dians, including  the  Peoria, 

Kaskaskia,  Cahokia,  Tamaroa,  and  Michigan  tribes,  dwelling 

in  and  near  the  State  that  commemorates  the  name.    They 

drove  out   the  Arkansas  ;   nearly  annihilated  the  Winne- 

bagoes,  in  1640 ;  suffered  murderous  defeat  by  the  Iroquois, 

in  1680,  losing  1,300  warriors;  fought  the  Sioux;  attacked 

the  frontiers  of  Virginia  ;  joined  the  French  in  fighting  the 

Chickasaws;  and  in  1719  were  quite  naturally  reduced  to 

3,000  persons.      After  a  season  of  war  against  the  United 

States,  the  fragments  of  the  nation  were  led  by  their  chief, 

Du  Quoin,  to  the  Indian  Territory.     The  Kickapoos  origi- 
nally occupied  the  region  south  of  Lake  Michigan,  whence 

they  advanced  southward  to  the  Sangamon.     They  were 

the  most  implacable  enemies  of  the  Republic,  and  fought 

Harrison,  Harmar,  St.  Clair  and  Wayne,  and  when  ex- 
pelled from  Illinois  they  migrated   to  Mexico,  to  escape 

American  rule. 

The  first  Europeans  to  visit  this  land  of  massacre  were 

the  envoys  of  religion  and  commerce.     Pushing  westward 

from  the  rock  of  Quebec  into  the  vast  continental  wilder- 
ness, the  heroic  Champlain  reached  Lake  Huron  in  1615, 

and  Jean  Nicolet  discovered  Lake  Michigan  in  1634.      In 

1673  Father  Marquette  and  Louis  Joliet  (a  Quebec-born 

fur-trader)  crossed  Wisconsin  by  the  Fox  and  Wisconsin 

Rivers,  and  descended  the  majestic  Mississippi,  being  the 

first   Europeans   to   see  Illinois,   whose  people  welcomed 

them  with  festivals  and  peace-pipes,  as  they  ascended  the  tranquil  Illinois  River.      Incited 

by  Joliet,  La  Salle  and  Tonti  in  1679,  made  further  exploration.     Near  the  site  of  Buffalo 

(N.  Y.)  they'built  the  Griffin,  and  thus  sailed  to  the  Wisconsin  shore,  and  presently  ascended 


STATISTICS. 


Settled  at     .... 
Settled  in     .... 
Founded  by      .    ;•'•.; 
Admitted  as  a  State,     . 
Population,  in  1860,  .     . 

In  1870, 

In  1880, 

White, 

Colored,     .... 
American-born, 
Foreign-born,      .     . 

Males 

Females,    .... 
In  1890  (U.  S.  census), 
Population  to  the  square  mile,        55 
Voting  Population,   .     .          .  796,847 
Vote  for  Harrison  (1888)     .  370,475 
Vote  for  Cleveland  (1888),  .  348,371 
Net  State  debt,  exceeded  by  funds 

in  hand. 
Assessed  Valuation  of 

Property  (1890);  .  .  $727,000,000 
Area  (square  miles),  .  .  .  56,650 
U.  S.  Representatives  (1893),  22 

Militia  (Disciplined),     .    .    .      4.045 

Counties 102 

Post-offices, 2,462 

Railroads  (miles),      ....     10,214 
Manufactures  (yearly),     $415,000,000 
Farm  Land  (in  acres),  .     .  32,500,000 
Farm-Land  Values,   $1,010,000,000 
Public  School  Average  At- 
tendance,         518,043 

Newspapers, 1,714 

Latitude,  .  .  s6°59/  to  42°3o'  N. 
Longitude,  .  .  87°35'  to  9i°4o/  W. 
Mean  Temperature  (Heloit),  47%° 
Mean  Temperature  (Cairo),  58%° 

TEN  CHIEF  CITIES  AND  THEIR  POPU- 
LATIONS.    (Census  of  1890.) 

.  .  1,099,850 
41,024 

.  •  31,494 
24,963 
23,584 
23,264 

,     .          20,484 

.  .  19,688 
17,823 

.     .          16,841 


Chicago,       .  . 

Peoria,     .    .  . 

Quincy,    .     .  . 
Springfield, 

Rockford,    .  . 

Joliet,       .     .  . 

Bloomington,  . 

Aurora,    .     .  . 

Elgin,       .     .  . 
Decatur, 


202 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE    UNITED   STATES. 


the  St. -Joseph,  and  in  canoes  drifted  down  the  Kankakee,  a 
quiet  five-foot  stream,  zig-zagging  through  the  tall  prairie- 
grasses.  Tonti  was  a  witness  of  the  unspeakable  horrors  of  the* 
Iroquois  invasion,  when  hundreds  of  Illinois  women  and  chilJ 
dren  were  burnt  at  the  stake.  Subsequently  La  Salle  formed- 
a  confederation  of  Kickapoos,  Miamis,  Illinois,  Piankeshaws 
and  Shawnees,  with  above  2,000  warriors,  defended  by  earth-! 
works,  and  grouped  about  Fort  St.  Louis,  near  Starved  Rock. 
In  1680  La  Salle  and  Hennepin  founded  Fort  Creve-Coeur. 
Cahokia  and  Kaskaskia  were  established  as  Catholic  missions,, 
and  an  important  French  commerce  flowed  between  the  Great| 
:RIB,  LAKE  MICHIGAN.  Lakes  and  the  Mississippi  Valley,  by  the  Chicago  and  Illinois' 
Rivers.  The  French  colonies  flourished,  and  developed  farms  and  mills,  chapels  and  forts, 
in  the  American  Bottom,  and  lived  at  peace  with  the  Indians.  The  country  was  governed 
first  from  Quebec,  and  then  from  New  Orleans,  until  1763,  when  it  passed  by  cession  into 
the  hands  of  Great  Britain.  Capt.  Sterling  of  the  42d  Highlanders,  then  became  its  gov- 
ernor, arriving  at  Fort  Chartres  in  1765.  The  chief  French  villages  were  Notre  Dame  de 
Cascasquias  (Kaskaskia),  with  its  stone  monastery  and  fortress ;  St.  Famille  de  Kaoquias 
(Cahokia),  founded  by  Canadians  who  married  Cahokia  squaws ;  and  Prairie  du  Rocher, 
near  old  Fort  Chartres.  The  French  Illinoisans  dwelt  in  thatched  and  white-washed  one- 
story  houses,  and  dressed  in  white  capotes,  coarse 
blue  garments  and  moccasins. 

Virginia  had  always  claimed  the  country  north- 
west of  the  Ohio  as  hers  by  right  of  charter,  and 
in  1778  Col.  George  Rogers  Clark,  acting  under 
her  authority,  chose  150  men,  with  whom  he  de- 
scended the  Ohio  to  near  Fort  Massac.  Thence 
they  marched  for  several  days,  and  seized  the 
sleeping  town  of  Kaskaskia.  The  French  people 
gladly  took  the  oath  of  allegiance  to  the  United 
States,  and  persuaded  their  compatriots  at  Cahokia 
and  Vincennes  to  embrace  the  American  cause.  Virginia  governed  her  conquest  by  county 
lieutenants,  and  the  earliest  American  immigrants  were  Virginians,  who,  in  1781,  settled 
along  the  American  Bottom.  The  magnanimous  cession  of  the  Northwest  Territory  to  the 
Union,  made  by  Virginia  in  1784,  placed  Illinois  under  the  National  jurisdiction.  In  1809 
the  Illinois  Territorial  government  was  organized,  including  Wisconsin,  Michigan  and  Min- 
nesota. The  population  in  1800  was  2,358,  largely  French  ;  and  during  the  next  ten  years 
10,000  immigrants  came  in,  mainly  from  the  Southern  States.  During  the  decade  1830-40, 
the  population  increased  318,738,  and  in  the  next  decade  the  increase  was  375,281.  Fort 
Dearborn  was  erected  by  the  Government  at  Chicago  in  1804.  In  1812  it  was  evacuated 

— -n     by  the  garrison,  under  orders,  but  before  they  had 
j     marched  a  league  on  their  way  to  Fort  Wayne, 
500  Pottawatamies  attacked  the  little  column,  and 
massacred  two  thirds  of  them,  capturing  the  re- 
mainder and  holding  them  for  ransom. 

The  Mormons  founded  the  city  of  Nauvoo,  on 
the  Mississippi,  in  1840,  and  erected  an  imposing 
temple ;  but  their  doctrines  aroused  among  the 
settlers  an  opposition  which  became  serious.  In 
1844,  Joseph  and  Hiram  Smith,  the  Mormon 
chiefs,  were  put  in  prison  at  Carthage,  where 
STARVED  ROCK  AND  ILLINOIS  RIVER.  a  mob  overpowered  the  guards,  and  slew  the 


PEGUM-SAUGUM  POINT,  NEAR  LA  SALLE. 


THE  STATE   OF  ILLINOIS. 


203 


captives.  After  a  cannonade  of  a  long  day's  duration  between  five  Illinois  and  five  Mor- 
mon guns,  in  which  800  cannon-balls  were  fired,  Nauvoo  surrendered,  and  its  people  suf- 
fered ejectment.  A  year  later,  the  Mormons  abandoned  Nauvoo,  and  set  out  on  their 
march  beyond  the  Rocky  Mountains,  to  found  new  homes  by  the  Great  Salt  Lake. 

Six  regiments  went  from  Illinois  to  the  Mexican  War.     As  soon  as  the  late  civil  war 
broke  out,  Gov.  Yates  garrisoned  Cairo,  and  put  Illinois  in  line  of  battle. 
During  the  war  she  sent  out  156  regiments  of  infantry  and  17  of  cavalry, 
and  33  batteries,  numbering  259,092  men.      Of  these  5,888  were  killed  in 
battle,  3,022  died  of  their  wounds,  19,596  died  of  disease,  and  967  died  in 
Southern  prisons.      May  23,  1878,  340  flags  and  guidons  borne  by  the  Illinois 
volunteers  were  transferred  from  the  State  Arsenal  to  the  Memorial 
Mall  in  the  State  House,  with  imposing  military  ceremonies,  and 
under  the  escort  of  marching  columns. 

The  vast  inflowing  of  immigration,  the  development  of  internal 
improvements,  and  the  legislative  settlement  of  important  local  ques- 
tions give  material  for  many  interesting  chapters  of  history.  The 
latest  dramatic  scene  on  Illinois  soil  occurred  May  4,  1886,  when  i8oCHlcAGO:  DOUGLAS  MONUMENT. 
policemen,  endeavoring  to  disperse  an  Anarchist  mob  in  Chicago,  were  attacked  with  dyna- 
mite and  revolvers,  and  lost  seven  killed  and  sixty  wounded.  Seven  of  the  leading  Anar- 
chists were  tried  and  convicted ;  four  were  hung,  two  went  to  prison,  and  one  committed 
suicide.  Thus  fell  the  power  of  anarchy  in  the  New  World. 

The  Name  of  the  State  is  a  Canadian-French  attempt  to  express  the  word  Illiniwik, 
which  in  Algonquin  is  a  verbal  form,  "We  are  men."  The  wek  gradually  got  written  ois, 

pronounced  way.  We  say  Illy-noy ;  but  the  French 
said  Illeenweek.  This  account  agrees  with  Albert 
Gallatin,  who  translated  the  word  Illini  (the  same  as 
Lent  of  the  Delawares)  as  Superior  Men  or  Real  Men. 
Among  the  pet  names  for  Illinois  arc  THE  PRAIRIE 
STATE,  The  Garden  of  the  West,  and  The  Sucker  State. 
The  term  Sucker  as  applied  to  an  Illinoisian  is  attributed 
to  a  Missourian,  who  said  to  a  party  of  Illinois  men 
going  home  from  the  Galena  mines:  "You  put  me  in 
mind  of  suckers;  up  in  the  spring,  spawn,  and  all  return  in  the  fall."  The  old-time  lead- 
miners  always  passed  their  winters  at  home,  returning  to  Galena  in  the  season  when  the 
sucker-fish  were  running  plentifully.  Douglas  said  :  When  George  Rogers  Clark's  brave 
little  army  of  Virginians  charged  into  Kaskaskia,  they  perceived  the  French  citizens  sitting 
on  their  verandahs  and  imbibing  mint-juleps  through  straws.  In  thunder  tones  the  rangers 
shouted:  "Surrender,  you  suckers." 

The  State  Arms  bear  an  American  spread  eagle,  perched  upon  a  boulder  on  the 
prairie,  with  a  rising  sun  in  the  background.  This  device  has  been  in  use  since  1819. 
The  motto  is  :  STATE  SOVEREIGNTY  —  NATIONAL  UNION. 

The  Governors  of  Illinois  have  been  :  Terri- 
torial—  Ninian  Edwards,  1809-18.  State — Shad- 
rach  Bond,  1818-22;  Edward  Coles,  1822-26; 
Ninian  Edwards,  1826-30;  John  Reynolds,  1830-4; 
Wm.  L.  D.  Ewing  (acting),  1834;  Jos.  Duncan, 
1834-8;  Thos.  Carlin,  1838-42;  Thos.  Ford, 
1842-6;  Aug.  C.  French,  1846-53;  Joel  A.  Mat- 
teson,  1853-57;  Wm.  H.  Bissell,  1857-60;  John 
Wood,  1 860- 1  ;  Richard  Yates,  1861-5;  Richard 
J.  Oglesby,  1865-9,  and  1873;  John  M.  Palmer, 
"1869-73;  John  L.  Beveridge,  1873-7;  Shelby  M.  NORMAL:  STATE  NORMAL  UNIVERSITY 


CAIRO  I     BRIDGE    OVER    THE    OHIO    RIVER. 


204 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


CHICAGO  :    STATE    INDUSTRIAL  EXPOSITION. 


Cullom,  1877-83;  John  M.  Hamilton,  1883-85; 
Richard  J.  Oglesby,  1885-9;  and  Joseph  W. 
Fifer,  1889-93. 

Descriptive. — Illinois  is  separated  from  Iowa 
and  Missouri  by  the  Mississippi  River,  on  the 
west ;  from  Kentucky,  by  the  Ohio  River,  on  the 
south  and  southeast ;  from  Indiana  by  the  Wa- 
bash  and  a  north  and  south  artificial  boundary, 
on  the  east ;  and  from  Wisconsin  by  a  straight 
line  of  140  miles  on  the  north.  Illinois  is  a  vast  grassy  plain,  broken  by  many  streams  into 
small  prairies,  and  imperceptibly  sloping  away  toward  the  Mississippi.  It  has  inexhaustible 
depths  of  heavy  black  vegetable  loam,  easily  tilled  and  amazingly  fertile,  and  free  from 
stones,  sand  or  gravel.  The  upland  prairies  are  underlaid  with  deep  drift  deposits,  over 
which  lies  three  feet  of  vegetable  and  animal  mould.  The  river  bottoms  form  wide  belts 
of  alluvial  soil.  No  territory  of  equal  size  in  the  world  shows  such  a  uniform  productive- 
ness of  soil.  With  an  area  exceeding  that  of  New  York,  or  of  England  and  Wales  com- 
bined, it  has  less  than  a  square  league  of  sterile  land.  Out  of  its  102  counties  74  have  pro- 
duced yearly  above  1,000,000  bushels  of  wheat  and  corn  each  ;  and  24  more  have  produced 
above  500,000  each.  The  distribution  of  live-stock  is  equally  general.  The  soil  is  so  rich 
that  deep  ploughing  and  fertilizing  are  not  needed,  and  the  crops  are  changed  only  when 
the  prices  of  other  grains  than  those  cultivated  rise.  The  Ameri- 
can Bottom  follows  the  Mississippi  from  Alton  to  Kaskaskia,  90 
miles  long,  with  a  width  of  two  leagues.  The  Grand  Prairie  extends 
for  200  miles  between  the  waters  flowing  to  the  Mississippi  and  those 
flowing  to  the  Wabash,  broken  here  and  there  by  picturesque  fringes 
and  points  of  woodland.  There  are  hundreds  of  other  fertile  plains, 
like  the  Bonpas,  Looking-Glass,  Bellevue,  Burnt,  Hancock,  Long, 
Round,  Ridge,  and  Lost  Prairies.  Their  nutritious  wild  grasses  were 
in  ancient  days  the  pasturage  of  myriads  of  buffalo.  In  marked 
contrast  with  the  prairies  are  the  bold  bluffs  and  cliffs  along  the 
rivers,  like  Fountain  Bluff,  on  the  Mississippi ;  the  legend-haunted 
Starved  Rock,  Lover's  Leap,  and  Buffalo  Rock,  on  the  Illinois ;  and  the  heights  over  the 
weird  Cave  in  the  Rock,  on  the  Ohio,  a  castellated  pile  of  ledges,  once  the  lair  of  river-pirates. 
The  highest  points  in  Illinois  occur  where  the  Wisconsin  plateau  enters  the  State,  and 
ends  in  bluffs  and  hills  800  feet  above  the  sea,  and  from  200  to  300  feet  above  the  prairies. 
The  inland  rivers,  the  Illinois,  Sangamon,  Rock  and  others,  are  bordered  by  rounded  grassy 
bluffs,  overlooking  vast  expanses  of  farm-lands,  rich  in  grain.  Here  and  there  amid  the 
prairies  similar  island-like  mounds  are  uplifted  from  golden  fields  of  wheat  and  green  ex- 
panses of  corn,  crowned  with  dark  groves.  In  the  south  rises  the  long  clay  ridge  of  Egypt, 
rich  in  northern  fruits  and  vegetables.  This  low  plateau  runs  from  Grand  Tower,  on  the 
Mississippi,  to  Shawneetown,  on  the  Ohio,  and  is  succeeded  by  a  broken  country,  extend- 
ing to  the  confluence  of  the  great  rivers,  where  Cairo  hides  behind  her  levees. 

Most  of  the  288  streams  flow  toward  the  Mississippi, 
with  available  water-powers  on  their  upper  courses,  fol- 
lowed by  sluggish  levels,  with  greatly  fluctuating  waters. 
The  noble  Mississippi  forms  the  western  boundary  for  700 
miles,  and  is  traversed  by  an  unceasing  procession  of  steam- 
boats. The  Ohio  and  Wabash,  on  the  south  and  south- 
east, are  also  navigated  by  large  commercial  fleets.  The 
Des-Plaines  (150  miles)  and  Kankakee  (230  miles)  unite 
45  miles  southwest  of  Chicago,  and  form  the  Illinois  River, 
EVANSTON  :  GARRETT  INSTITUTE.  running  southwest  500  miles,  and  reaching  the  Mississippi 


QUINCY  :    CITY    HALL. 


THE  STATE   OF  ILLINOIS. 


205 


CHICAGO  I     CALUMET    CLUB. 


20  miles  above  the  Missouri.  It  is  navigable  213  miles,  to  La 
Salle,  through  a  rich  level  country ;  and  receives  the  waters  of  the 
Fox,  Sangamon,  and  Vermillion.  Rock  River  flows  for  300  miles 
through  open  and  undulating  prairies.  The  Kaskaskia  River  has 
been  navigated  by  steamboats  up  to  Carlisle.  The  pleasant  lake- 
country  of  Wisconsin  extends  into  northeastern  Illinois,  whose  Lake 
County  is  dotted  with  pretty  sheets  of  clear  water.  The  favorite  of 
these  is  Fox  Lake,  about  50  miles  from  Chicago,  and  the  chief  of  a 
series  of  forty  shining  lochs,  famous  for  fish  and  wild-fowl,  and  sur- 
rounded by  grassy  knolls  and  wooded  slopes.  Scattered  through  this  region  are  summer- 
hotels  and  club-houses,  and  on  the  lakes  float  many  yachts  and  small  steamers. 

Although  a  prairie  State,  Illinois  is  endowed  with  large  areas  of  woodlands,  amounting 
to  seven  per  cent,  in  the  40  northern  and  Grand-Prairie  counties,  15  in  the  21  Illinois- 
Valley  counties,  and  about  25  per  cent,  in  the  remaining  country.  There  are  a  hundred 
species  of  native  forest-trees,  oak,  ash,  maple,  and  others,  with  cypress,  sycamore,  red-bud, 
and  sweet  gum  in  the  south.  The  black  walnut,  poplar,  and  other  native  woods  are  used 
in  immense  quantities  by  furniture  factories.  The  destruction  of  the  native  forests  has  been 
in  part  repaired  by  systematic  tree-planting.  The 
buffalo,  elk  and  deer  have  vanished,  and  only  a  few  lone 
wolves  and  foxes  lurk  in  the  remote  forests.  The  wild 
pigeons  still  visit  the  forests  by  thousands.  Of  late  years 
fish  have  been  propagated  in  the  depopulated  streams, 
and  guarded  by  stringent  laws,  and  great  numbers  of 
wall-eyed  pike,  black  and  white  bass,  croppie,  German 
,carp,  white  and  ringed  perch,  catfish,  sunfish,  buffalo, 
pickerel  and  pike  are  now  caught  by  rural  anglers. 

The  Climate  is  pleasant  .and  healthy,  and  perpetual 
breezes  blow  over  the  prairies,  modifying  the  summer- 
heats,  while  Lake  Michigan  makes  t'he  neighboring  region  warmer  in  winter  and  cooler  in 
summer.  The  diversity  of  the  climate  depends  largely  on  the  extent  of  the  State  north 
and  south,  one  end  being  in  the  latitude  of  Boston,  the  other  in  that  of  Fort  Monroe.  The 
seasons  come  with  great  regularity,  favoring  agriculture,  and  the  rainfall  is  abundant  and 
seasonable,  averaging  36  inches  in  the  north  and  42  in  the  south.  The  fluctuations  in  tem- 
perature are  often  great  and  sudden,  but  the  vital  statistics  show  that  the  climate  is  re- 
markably healthy,  while  the  crop  reports  bear  witness  to  its  high  fitness  for  agricultural 
development  and  the  growth  of  great  and  valuable  supplies  of  breadstuff's. 

The  Farm-Products  of  Illinois  have  reached  $270,000,000  in  a  single  year  (grain, 
$145,000,000;  live-stock,  $50,000,000;  dairy  articles,  $27,- 
000,000;  hay  and  potatoes,  $26,000,000).  The  farm-property 
is  valued  at  above  $1,000,000,000.  The  average  price  of  im- 
proved land  is  $33  an  acre.  New  methods  of  scientific  farm- 
ing, the  use  of  modern  machinery,  the  extension  of  careful 
underdraining,  and  the  intelligence  of  thousands  of  skilled 
farmers  are  developing  valuable  agricultural  properties. 

Illinois  lies  within  the  great  American  corn-belt,  and  holds 
the  first  rank  among  the  States  as  a  producer  of  corn.  It  has 
reached  325,000,000  bushels,  and  in  the  ten  years,  1874-83,  it 
averaged  227,000,000  bushels,  with  a  yearly  value  of  nearly 
$70,000,000  (30  bushels  an  acre,  at  31  cents).  The  corn 
country  lies  north  of  the  wheat  belt,  which  begins  south  of 
Springfield,  and  extends  southeast  to  the  Wabash.  Between  1870 
CHICAGO:  UNION  LEAGUE.  and  1883  the  wheat-crop  averaged  30,000,000  bushels.  Since 


Adltr  {  Sullivan,  Archil, 

STANDARD  CLUa 


206 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED  STATES. 


KANKAKEE  :    EASTERN    HOSPITAL    FOR    THE    INSANE. 


1880  the  market  price  for  wheat  has  been 

so  low  that  many  farmers  raised  it  at  a 

loss,  and  have  now  abandoned  the  crop. 

The  products  of  oats  has  exceeded  100,- 

000,000  bushels  in  a  year.      Rye,  barley, 

buckwheat,  potatoes  and  hay  are  raised 

in  enormous  quantities.    Among  the  other 

yearly  products  of  this  great  garden  of 

the  West  are  500,000  pounds  of  grass  seed,  1,500,000  pounds  of  flaxseed,  1 1,000,000  pounds 

of  broom-corn,  1,300,000  gallons  of  sorghum  syrup,  $3,500,000  worth  of  eggs  and  poultry, 

800,000  pounds  of  honey,  and  100,000  pounds  of  beeswax.      The  Prairie  State  abounds  in 

rich  fruits,  and  has  300,000  acres  of  orchards  and  vineyards.     Besides  the  famous  products 

of  the  Alton  peach-country,  and  the  car-loads  of  strawberries  sent  from  Cobden  and  Cen- 

tralia,  the  apples  of  Illinois  have  reached  600,000  bushels  in  a  year,  and  raspberries  and 

blackberries,  cherries  and  plums  grow  in  vast  quantities.    Over  3,000,000  pounds  of  grapes 

and  300,000  gallons  of  wine  have  come  from  the  vineyards  in  a  single  year. 

Some  part  of  the  superabundant  grain  and  the  immense  product  of  hay  in  the  northern 
counties  is  devoted  to  the  fattening  of  great  flocks  and  herds.  Illinois  stands  first  among 
the  States  in  horses,  of  which  it  possesses  more  than  1,000,000,  valued 
at  f^yS'000*000?  and  including  many  thoroughbreds,  and  Norman  and 
Clydesdale  draught-horses.  The  cattle  number  2,500,000,  valued  at  over 
$50,000,000.  Of  these,  700,000  are  milch-cows,  including  great  numbers 
of  Jerseys  and  Holsteins.  Although  100,000,000  gallons  of  milk  are  furn- 
ished to  the  cities  yearly,  enough  remains  to  make  25,000,000  pounds 
of  butter  and  7,000,000  pounds  of  cheese.  The  State  has  over 
2,000,000  hogs.  The  hog-cholera  has  carried  off  nearly  500,000 
head  in  a  single  year,  but  still  the  business  advances,  the  herds 
including  thousands  of  Berkshires,  Poland-Chinas,  and  Chester 
Whites.  At  one  time  Illinois  had  2,000,000  sheep,  but  the 
ravages  of  dogs  and  the  rise  of  shepherding  farther  west  have 
caused  the  flocks  to  fall  off"  to  600,000.  The  wool-clip  has 
reached  6,000,000  pounds  in  a  year. 
The  Mineral  Product  is  of  large  and  increasing  value.  The  coal-fields  underlie  three 
fourths  of  Illinois,  producing  excellent  bituminous,  block  and  cannel  coal,  from  six  irregu- 
lar workable  beds.  There  are  1,100  mines,  in  45  counties,  employing  24,000  miners,  and 
producing  12,000,000  tons  a  year.  Most  of  these  are  in  Sangamon,  Macoupin  and  La-Salle 
Counties,  and  in  the  Belleville  district,  where  the  seam  is  six  feet  thick.  It  is  obtained 
with  great  ease,  being  near  the  surface ;  and  its  wide  distribution,  with  ready  transporta- 
tion over  the  network  of  prairie  railroads  and  along  the  contiguous  rivers,  makes  it  of  high 
economic  value  in  this  region  of  many  factories.  Much  of  it  is  pure  enough  to  use  without 
coking,  for  smelting  iron-ores,  in  the  Iron-Mountain  district  of  Missouri  and  the  mineral 
country  of  Michigan.  Some  iron-ores  are  found  and  worked ;  and  in  the  north  lie  exten- 
sive beds  of  peat.  Copper  occurs  along  the 
Pecatonica,  in  small  quantities. 

The  Galena  lead-mines  have  been  in  operation 
for  eighty  years,  and  scar  the  rough  and  deso- 
late hill-country  for  leagues.  This  industry  cul- 
minated in  1845,  wnen  20,000  tons  were  ship- 
ped. The  competition  of  the  lead-mines  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains  has  reduced  the  output.  Zinc 
is  found  with  the  lead,  in  paying  quantities, 
with  furnaces  at  Peru  and  La  Salle.  There  are  tnicAGo  :  LINCOLN  PARK. 


QUINCY: 
SAILORS'  AND  SOLDIERS'  HOME. 


THE  STAJ^E   OF  ILLINOIS. 


207 


salt-wells  in  the  south,  yielding  twelve  ounces  of  salt  to  each  gallon  of  water.  The  Niagara 
limestone  of  Lemont  and  Joliet  is  a  fine-grained,  light-drab  stone,  composed  of  the  rounded 
grains  of  shells.  It  is  easily  worked,  and  the  product  of  the  quarries  goes  to  all  the  in- 
terior States.  There  are 
40  limestone  quarries,  em- 
ploying 2,200  men.  The 
sandstones  of  the  upper 
Illinois  valley  are  used 
in  glass-works.  Varie- 
gated marble  is  produced ; 
and  potter's-clay  and  min- 
eral-paint  abound  in  the  ELGIN  :  NOTHERN  HOSPITAL  FOR  THE  INSANE. 

south.     The  sulphur  and  iron  springs  of  Jefferson  County  have  a  local  repute  ;  and  there 
are  medicinal  waters  near  Ottawa  and  Peru. 

Government. —  The  governor  and  several  executive  officers  are  elected  every  four  years. 
The  State  includes  51  districts,  each  of  which  sends  a  senator  and  three  representatives  to 
the  General  Assembly.  The  Supreme  Court  has  seven  justices,  and  there  are  appellate, 
circuit,  and  county  courts.  The  Constitution  of  1870  replaced  that  of  1848,  and  is  a  State 
paper  of  remarkable  perspicuity  and  wisdom. 

The  population  in   1850  included  26,000  New-Englanders,    112,000  from  the  Middle 
States,  112,300  from  the  South,  107,000  from  other  Western  States,  52,000  from  Great 
,  Britain  and   Ireland,   39,000   from    Germany, 

and  344,000  natives  of  Illinois.  In  1880  Illinois 
had  60,000  New-Englanders,  224,000  from 
the  Middle  States,  150,000  Southerners,  and 
1,700,000  natives.  In  all  this  great  inland 
empire,  virtue,  mercy  and  peace  dwell,  and 
the  blessings  of  religion  and  education  are  dif- 
fused. Industry  is  stimulated  by  ownership, 
to  a  larger  extent  than  in  other  communities ; 
and  the  people  live  in  great  comfort  and  con- 
tent. Of  the  people  of  Illinois  nearly  two  fifths  are  at  school,  one  fourth  in  farming,  one 
sixth  in  manufacturing,  and  nearly  one  sixth  in  trade  and  transportation. 

Charities  and  Corrections  are  represented  by  thirteen  State  institutions.  The  Peni- 
tentiary at  Joliet  has  1,340  prisoners;  and  the  Penitentiary  at  Chester  has  670.  The 
Northern,  Southern,  Eastern  and  Central  Hospitals  for  the  Insane,  at  Elgin  (520  inmates), 
Anna  (630),  Kankakee  (1,600),  and  Jacksonville  (900),  occupy  buildings  and  grounds  that 
have  cost  above  $5,000,000.  The  Kankakee  Asylum  is  one  of  the  largest  establishments 
on  the  detached-ward  or  village  system.  The  Institution  for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb,  founded 
at  Jacksonville  in  1839,  has  530  pupils.  A  similar  Institution  for  the  Blind,  near  the  same 
city,  has  150  students.  The  Asylum  for  Feeble-Minded  Children,  at  Lincoln,  has  370 
inmates,  with  industrial  training,  and  a  farm  of  400  acres. 

The  Illinois  National  Guard  is  limited  by  „   „, 

law  to  4,000  officers  and  enlisted  men,  organ- 
ized into  two  brigades.  The  First  Brigade 
(headquarters  at  Chicago)  comprises  the 
First  and  Second  Infantry,  at  Chicago ; 
the  Third  Infantry,  with  headquarters  at 
Rockford ;  the  Fourth  Infantry,  with  head- 
quarters at  Joliet;  and  Battery  D,  at 
Chicago.  The  Second  Brigade,  with  head- 
quarters at  Springfield,  contains  the  Fifth  JACKSONVILLE  :  THE  STATE  BLIND  ASYLUM. 


LINCOLN:  STATE  ASYLUM  FOR  FEEBLE-MINDED  CHILDREN. 


208 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 


EVANSTON  I    NORTHWESTERN   UNIVERSITY. 


Infantry,  with  headquarters  at  Springfield ;  the  Sixth 
Infantry  (Moline);  the  Eighth  Infantry  (Greenup); 
and  Battery  A,  at  Danville.  The  infantry  is  equipped 
with  the  same  arms  as  the  United- States  Army,  and 
the  uniform  is  identical  with  that  worn  in  the  same 
service.  Camp  Lincoln,  near  Springfield,  is  the 
State  Camp  of  Instruction  ;  and  the  troops  are  often 
stationed  there  for  tours  of  military  duty.  Camp  Lin- 
coln is  one  mile  long,  and  has  one  of  the  best  rifle- 
ranges  in  the  country.  While  the  guard  is  in  camp  especial  attention  is  given  to  instruc- 
tion in  rifle-firing,  skirmish  drill  and  guard  duties.  The  batteries  are  equipped  with  four 
cannon  each,  and  Catling  guns.  The  State  troops  have  frequently  rendered  valuable 
service,  in  support  of  the  civil  authorities,  in  times  of  riots  and  strikes. 

The  first  post  of  the  Grand  Army  of  the  Republic  was  mustered  in,  April  6,  1866,  at 
Decatur,  by  Major  B.  F.  Stephenson,  and  numbered  twelve  comrades.  Now  that  this  great 
military  fraternity  includes  7,000  posts  and  400,000  comrades,  the  silver  anniversary  of  the 
order  (1891)  is  to  be  commemorated  by  the  dedication,  at  Decatur,  of  a  National  Memorial 
Hall,  as  a  storehouse  of  records  and  mementoes  and  curiosities,  a  temple  of  patriotism  and 
a  school  of  loyalty.  The  Soldiers'  and  Sailors'  Home  has  900  inmates,  in  pretty  cottages, 
where  squads  of  50  dwell  and  have  their  meals  furnished,  the  entire  body  uniting  only 

at  church.  The  headquarters,  cottages,  hospital, 
kitchen  and  dairy  occupy  spacious  ornamental 
grounds,  near  Quincy.  The  Soldiers'  Orphans' 
Home,  at  Normal,  has  350  inmates. 

National  Institutions.  —  The  Rock- Island 
Arsenal  is  the  most  completely  appointed  of  Ameri- 
can arsenals,  having  also  an  armory,  powder-works, 
and  foundry.  Here  Gen.  Rodman  perfected  his 
great  inventions  of  cooling  cannon-castings  from 
the  inside,  and  prism  or  perforated-cake  powder 
for  heavy  guns.  The  buildings  are  of  stone,  and  in- 
clude the  soldiers'  barracks,  rolling  and  forging  mills,  magazines,  and  great  shops  for  making 
ordnance  stores.  When  in  full  operation,  the  Arsenal  can  arm,  equip  and  supply  750,000 
troops.  It  is  traversed  by  railways,  and  connected  with  Moline,  Rock  Island  and  Daven- 
port by  bridges  across  the  Mississippi.  Rock  Island  covers  970  acres.  It  was  acquired  by 
Gen.  Harrison  from  the  Sac  and  Fox  Indians,  by  a  treaty  made  at  St.  Louis,  in  1804;  and 
in  1816  the  Eighth  United-States  Infantry  erected  Fort  Armstrong,  which  was  garrisoned 
for  20  years.  In  1863  Congress  established  here  the  chief  Arsenal  for  the  Mississippi  Val- 
ley, which  Gen.  T.  J.  Rodman  commanded  from  1865  to  1871. 

In  1888  the  Government  began  the  construction  of  Fort  Sheridan,  a  ten-company  fort, 
at  Highwood,  north  of  Chicago.  The  National  Cemetery,  at  Mound  City,  has  the  graves 
of  5.226  soldiers  of  the  war  for  the  Union. 

Education  is  served  by  permanent  productive  school-funds  exceeding  $10,000,000, 
drawn  from  Government  land-grants,  and  the  surplus  revenue  distributed  in 
1837.   The  receipts  for  schools  exceed  $11,- 
000,000   yearly.       The    public-school   and 
State    educational   property    is   valued    at 
$27,000,000.      Illinois  has    1, 200,000  per- 
sons of  school  age,  of  whom  760,000  are 
enrolled   in    the    public    schools,    with   an 
average  daily  attendance  of  518,043.   There 
are     I2,OOO    school-districts,    with     24,000  CHICAGO  :  WESTERN  THEOLOGICAL  SEMINARY. 


URBANA  :    UNIVERSITY  OF  ILLINOIS- 


THE   STATE   OF  ILLINOIS. 


209 


teachers,  and  160,000  books  in  the  libraries.  In 
private  schools  100,000  students  are  enrolled.  The 
Illinois  State  Normal  University,  founded  at  Nor- 
mal, near  Bloomington,  in  1857,  has  16  instructors 
and  720  students.  The  Southern  Normal  Univer- 
sity, at  Carbondale,  has  1 6  instructors  and  450 
pupils,  mostly  from  the  southern  counties.  The 
Cook-County  Normal  School  is  at  Normal  Park ; 
and  there  is  a  Manual  Training  School  at  Chicago, 
with  220  students. 


ROCKFORD  SEMINARY. 


Illinois  has  24  colleges  and  universities,  with  270  instructors  and  2,000  students,  besides 
2,200  in  their  preparatory  departments.  The  University  of  Illinois,  opened  at  Urbana  in 
1868,  has  35  instructors  and  350  students  (50  women),  besides  125  preparatory  and  special 
pupils.  It  includes  colleges  of  agriculture  ;  engineering  (mechanical,  civil  and  mining,  and 
architecture)  ;  natural  science ;  and  ancient  and  modern  languages  ;  and  schools  of  military 
science,  and  of  art  and  design.  The  University  has  a  beautiful  location  on  610  acres  of 
high  rolling  prairie.  It  received  the  Congressional  land-grant  of  480,000  acres,  in  1862, 
besides  liberal  State  appropriations.  This  institution  was  the  outgrowth  of  a  movement  for 
the  higher  education  of  the  industrial  classes,  and  has  one  honorary  scholarship  for  each 
county,  besides  farmers'  and  builders'  short  courses.  It  makes  prominent  instruction  in 
branches  of  learning  relating  to  agriculture  and  the  mechanic  arts. 

Northwestern  University,  an  institution  of  large  and  growing  endowment,  organized  by 
the  Methodists  in  1855,  is  situated  at  Evanston,  twelve  miles  from  Chicago.  The  College  of 
Liberal  Arts  has  250  students  ;  the  Conservatory  of  Music,  190;  the  School  of  Art,  20;  the 
Preparatory  School,  600.  Of  the  professional  schools,  in  Chicago,  the  College  of  Medicine 
has  210  students;  Law,  140;  Pharmacy,  200;  and  Dental  and  Oral  Surgery,  25.  Univer- 
sity Hall  is  a  handsome  stone  building,  containing  recitation-rooms,  chapel,  museum,  and 
library  (25,000  volumes).  The  Hall. of  Science  provides  laboratories  andj  lecture-rooms, 
admirably  constructed  and  equipped.  The  new  Dearborn  Observatory,  lately  completed, 
according  to  the  best  plans,  contains  an  equatorial  refracting  telescope  of  great  power. 
These  buildings  are  situated  in  a  beautiful  campus,  shaded 
by  native  oaks,  directly  on  the  shore  of  Lake  Michigan.  The 
Woman's  College,  in  separate  grounds,  and  the  College  Cot- 
tage, are  homes  for  women  students. 
The  Garrett  Biblical  Institute,  founded 
in  1856  as  a  theological  school,  has  170 
students.  Its  buildings,  the  elegant 
Memorial  Hall,  and  Heck  Hall,  are  in 
the  University  grounds,  but  the  institu- 
tion is  under  separate  organization.  Also 
an  Evanston,  and  affiliated  with  the  In- 
stitute, are  the  Norwegian-Danish,  and 
the  Swedish  theological  schools. 

The  new  Chicago  University  was  en- 
dowed by  J.  D.  Rockefeller,  in  1889, 
with  $600,000,  and  in  1 890  with  $1,000,- 
ooomore,  to  which  Marshall  Field  added 
a  gift  of  land.  This  institution  hopes 
to  rival  the  ancient  universities  of  the 
East,  in  equipment  and  learning. 

Shurtleff  College,    at   Upper  Alton, 

':  SHURTLEFF  COLLEGE.  was    founded   in    1832,  as   a  seminary, 


ft. 


210 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


largely  to  educate  Baptist  clergymen.     It  is  co-educational,  with  theo- 
logical and  scientific  schools.     It  was  named  for  its  chief  benefactor,  Dr. 
N.  B.  Shurtleff,  of  Boston.      Illinois  College,  founded  by  Presbyterians  in 
1830,  occupies  a  pleasant  ridge  overlooking  Jacksonville.     Knox  College, 
founded  at  Galesburg  in  1841,  has  174  students.     Wheaton  College 
dates  from   1855.     The  Illinois  Wesleyan  University  is  a  Methodist    «?* 
institution,  founded  at  Bloomington  in  1850,  and  with  196  students. 
Lombard  University,  at  Galesburg,  pertains  to  the  Universa- 
lists.   Lake-Forest  University  is  a  successful  Presbyterian  school, 
with  100  students.      Among  the  Methodist  schools  are  Hed- 
ding  College,  at  Abingdon,  with  78  students ;  Chaddock  Col- 
lege, at  Quincy ;  and  the  German-English  College,  at  Galena.  ~  SPRINGF~ELDT 
The  chief  Catholic  colleges  are  St.  Ignatius  (Jesuit),  at  Chicago;       LINCOLN  MONUMENT  AND  TOMB. 
St.  Francis   Solanus  (Franciscan),  at  Quincy ;    St.  Viateur's,  at  Bourbonnais  Grove  ;  and 
St.  Joseph's  (Franciscan),  at  Teutopolis.     These  have  nearly  500  collegiate  students.     The 
chief  higher  schools  for  women  are  at  Jacksonville,   opened  in  1830;    Rockford,    1849; 
Mount  Carroll,  1853;  Knoxville,  1868;  and  Lake  Forest,  1869. 

The  Union  Baptist  Theological  Seminary  at  Morgan  Park,  twelve  miles  south  of  Chicago, 
has  133  students.  There  are  20  in  its  Dano-Norwegian,  and  19  in  its  Swedish  department. 
The  library  contains  20,000  volumes.  The  McCormick  Theological  Seminary,  opened  in 
1859  at  Chicago,  has  eleven  instructors,  and  100  Presbyterian  divinity  students.  The 
Chicago  Theological  Seminary  (Congregationalist),  opened  in  1858,  has  several  good  build- 
ings facing  Union  Park,  with  nine  instructors,  65  students  and 
35°  graduates.  Augustana  College  and  Theological  Seminary 
occupies  a  beautiful  site  near  Rock  Island,  and  is  controlled  by 
the  Swedish  Lutheran  Augustana  Synod  of  the  United  States. 
Wartburg  Seminary  at  Mendota  is  also  Lutheran.  Eureka  Col-. 
EVANSTON  :  lege's  Bible  department  has  three  teachers  and  30  students.  The 

Union  Biblical  Institution  of  the  Evangelical  Association  is  at 

Naperville.  Methodist  theological  schools  are  conducted  at  the  German-English  College, 
at  Galena,  and  McKendree  College ;  and  Wheaton  Theological  Seminary  was  founded  in 
1 88 1,  by  the  Methodist  Protestants.  Lombard  University,  has  a  small  Universalist  theo- 
logical school.  The  divinity  schools  of  Illinois  are  among  the  most  important  in  America. 
The  Bible  Institute  for  missions  has  several  buildings  at  Chicago,  and  320  men  and 
women  students.  The  Bible  is  the  only  text-book,  in  its  practical  application  to  soul- 
saving  and  the  Christian  life ;  and  the  students  are  brought  into  face-to-face  contact  with 
the  masses,  in  house-visiting  and  mission  work.  There  is  also  a  department  for  musical 
training,  as  an  adjunct  to  religious  work.  Dwight  L.  Moody, 
the  evangelist,  is  the  head  of  this  unique  institution. 

Libraries. —  The  Chicago  Public  Library  has  grown  since 
1874  to  150,000  volumes.  The  great  Newberry  Library,  en- 
dowed with  $2,500,000,  is  to  occupy  the  Ogden  Block,  at 
Chicago.  It  already  has  above  40,000  volumes,  in  American 
local  history,  biography,  astronomy,  music  and  sociology,  and 
is  under  the  care  of  Wm.  F.  Poole.  This  library  is  intended 
solely  for  reference.  The  Crerar  Library,  endowed  by  John 
Crerar  with  $2,225,000,  will  be  in  the  South  Division  of  Chicago, 
if  his  will  is  not  broken  by  the  contestants. 

Art.—  The  Art  Institute  of  Chicago  has  large  collections 
and  loan  collections  of  paintings  and  art-objects,  and  a  flourish- 
ing school  of  art.  Among  the  artistic  memorials  of  Illinois  are 
St.  Gaudens's  noble  statue  of  Lincoln,  Count  Lelaing's  statue  CHICAGO  ;  ZION  TEMPLE. 


THE   STATE   OF  ILLINOIS. 


211 


of  La  Salle,  the  Drexel  monument,  and  the  tall  column  crowned  with  the  statue  of  Douglas, 
all  at  Chicago,  ;  the  statue  of  Grant,  at  Galena ;  and  the  great  monument  over  the  remains 
of  Abraham  Lincoln,  at  Springfield.  The  Rebisso  equestrian  statue  of  Gen.  Grant  is  being 
prepared  for  Lincoln  Park,  Chicago ;  and  Partridge's  statue  of  Shakespeare  will  be  placed 
in  the  same  public  ground.  Other  monumental  works  adorn  several  Illinois  cities. 

Newspapers  began  here  with  the  Illinois  Sun,  published 
at  Kaskaskia,  about  1814,  and  followed  by  the  Illinois  Emi- 
grant, at  Shawneetown,  in  1818,  and  The  Spectator,  at  Ed- 
wardsville,  in  1819.  The  Chicago  Tribune,  founded  in  1847, 
has  risen  to  a  commanding  position  among  American  news- 
papers. In  1853  Joseph  Medill  bought  a  large  interest  in  the 
paper ;  and  four  years  later  it  absorbed  the  Democratic  Press, 
whose  publishers,  Wm.  Bross  and  J.  L.  Scripps,  entered  the 
Tribune  company,  together  with  Alfred  Cowles,  Dr.  C.  L. 
Ray,  and  Horace  White  (now  of  the  New- York  Evening 
Posf).  The  "fire-proof"  Tribune  building  was  burned  in  the 
great  fire  of  1871  ;  and  a  year  later  the  present  structure  rose 
on  the  same  site,  at  its  time  one  of  the  best  newspaper  build- 
ings in  this  country.  A  few  years  prior  and  subsequent  to 
CHICAGO  :  THE  CHICAGO  TRIBUNE.  the  firej  Horace  White  had  editorial  control,  and  steered  the 
Tribune  through  the  Greeley  campaign  (Mr.  Medill  having  retired,  and  being  Mayor  dur- 
ing a  part  of  the  time),  but  with  such  results,  that  in  1874  he  relinquished  the  control  into 
the  hands  of  Mr.  Medill,  where  it  has  since  remained.  Under  his  judicious  management, 
aided  by  a  large  and  competent  corps  of  employees,  it  has  risen  to  its  present  commanding 
position,  not  only  as  a  news -gatherer  and  political  organ,  but  as  one  of  the  largest  adver- 
tising mediums  in  the  United  States.  It  has  always  been  a  judicious  and  conservative 
champion  of  the  Republican  party ;  has  opposed  the  follies  of  fiatism,  prohibition  and  Tam- 
many rule  in  cities ;  secured  the  passage  of  the  admirable  Illinois  high-license  law ;  and 
strenuously  opposed  ultra  tariff  taxation. 

The  German-Americans  of  the  Northwest  have  a  noble  representative  newspaper  in  the 
Illinois  Staats-Zeitiing,  which  was  founded  in  1847,  by  Robert  Hoeffger,  who  alone  solicited 
all  the  advertisements  and  subscriptions,  set  the  type,  ran 
the  press,  and  then  went  out  and  distributed  the  edition  of 
200  copies  to  the  subscribers.  In  1851  the  daily  edition 
began,  with  70  subscribers.  The  combined  circulation  of 
all  the  editions  is  now  97,000  copies;  and  the  Staats-Zei- 
tung  Building,  owned  and  occupied  by  the  paper,  at 
Chicago,  cost,  with  its  equipment,  over  $300,000.  The 
Illinois  Staats-Zeitung  was  the  first  German  paper  to  dis- 
cover Republican  principles  in  the  Buffalo  Platform  of 
1848 ;  and  afterwards  it  antagonized  the  Nebraska  Bill, 
and  led  the  Germans  into  the  Republican  party,  fighting 
hard  for  Fremont,  and  then  for  Lincoln.  Latterly  it  has 
been  a  power  also  in  municipal,  county  and  State  politics. 
There  is  but  one  German-American  paper  with  greater 
wealth  and  circulation,  and  none  surpasses  it  in  ability,  CHICAGO 
influence  and  popularity  with  myriads  of  German  readers  all  over  the  United  States. 

Many  millions  of  Americans  get  their  knowledge  of  events  of  the  day  from  "patent 
insides,"  or  ready-printed  sheets  furnished  to  country  newspapers.  This  plan  of  auxiliary 
sheets  was  first  developed,  in  America,  by  Ansel  N.  Kellogg,  publisher  of  the  Baraboo 
(Wis.)  Republic,  in  1 86 1,  when  his  printers  had  gone  to  the  war,  and  left  him  under  the 
necessity  of  having  his  paper  printed  at  the  Madison  Journal  office.  Four  years  later  he 


MOIS    STAATS-ZEITUNG. 


212 


KJNG^S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE    UNITED   STATES. 


CHICAGO  :    A.   N.  KELLOGG 
NEWSPAPER    CO. 


went  to  Chicago,  and  founded  the  business  of  supplying  "patent 
insides "  for  rural  papers,  with  the  freshest  news  and  the  best 
selected  and  most  interesting  miscellany.  He  began  with  eight 
papers,  and  the  company  now  supplies  over  2,000,  and  issues 
more  than  100  different  editions  weekly,  edited  with  conspicuous 
ability,  by  a  large  force  of  experienced  journalists.  The  A.  N. 
Kellogg  Newspaper  Company  has  eight  offices  for  supplying  its 
patrons :  Chicago,  with  400  newspapers ;  St.  Louis,  with  400 ; 
Cleveland,  200;  Kansas  City,  267;  Cincinnati,  230;  Memphis, 
200;  St.  Paul,  150;  and  Wichita,  100.  Out  of  this  enterprise 
has  grown  an  immense  advertising  business,  in  which  reputable 
advertising  of  the  largest  and  shrewdest  American  houses  is  dis- 
played on  the  auxiliary  sheets  of  these  groups  of  country  and 
shire-town  weeklies,  with  amazingly  profitable  results. 
Chief  Cities. —  Chicago  is  a  typical  Western  and  American  city,  the  largest  west  of 
the  Alleghany  Mountains,  and  the  second  in  size  in  the  New  W7orld.  About  the  year  1850 
this  outgrowth  of  an  Indian  trading-post  and  a  frontier  garrison  began  to  challenge  atten- 
tion, and  in  the  ensuing  decade  its  population  rose  from  30,000  to  112,172.  The  new 
metropolis  commanded  the  unrivalled  inland  navigation  of  the  great  lakes,  and  her  complex 
systems  of  railways  reached  out  into  all  parts  of  the  rising  West.  The  advanced  position 
thus  early  sei'zed  has  been  held  by  the  wide-awake  citizens.  Ckecaqua,  the  Indian  name  of 
this  locality,  is  said  by  some  to  mean  "wild  onion,"  by  others  to  mean  "strong."  Possibly 
either  is  correct.  The  first  settler  was  a  negro,  Jean  Baptiste  Point  au  Sable,  in  1790. 
Three  years  later  he  departed,  and  Le  Mai,  a  Frenchman,  came,  selling  out,  in  turn,  to 
John  Kinzie,  of  the  American  Fur  Co.,  the  first  permanent  settler.  October  9  and  10, 
1871,  Chicago  was  nearly  destroyed  by  a  great  fire,  which  consumed  $200,000,000  worth 
of  property,  and  left  100,000  people  homeless.  The  Chicago  River  is  a  bayou  running 
westward  from  Lake  Michigan  for  five  eighths  of  a  mile,  and  then  forking  into  the  North 
and  South  Branches,  nearly  parallel  with  the  lake.  The  South  Side,  between  the  river,  the 
South  Branch  and  the  lake,  contains  the  wholesale  business,  banks,  exchanges,  hotels  and 


CHICAGO  I   THE  UNION  STOCK-YARDS. 


7 '///<;    STATE   OF  ILLINOIS. 


213 


To  avoid  the 
course  of  the 


PEORIA  :    COURT-HOUSE. 


chief  public  buildings,  with  a  fine  residence-quarter  beyond.  There  is  also  a  pleasant  region 
of  homes  on  the  North  Side.  The  site  of  Chicago  was  a  flat  swamp  along  a  bayou,  and  in 
order  to  secure  proper  drainage  the  city  was  raised  ten  or  twelve  feet,  at  enormous  cost, 
discharge  of  the  sewage  into  the  lake,  the  city  artificially  reversed  the 
Chicago  River,  so  that  it  now  empties  into  the  Illinois  River.  The 
grain-trade  employs  thirty  immense  grain-elevators  and  store- 
houses, handling  140,000,000  bushels  yearly.  Since  1870  over 
2,500,000,000  bushels  have  been  received  here. 

The  Union  Stock-Yards  are  the  largest  in  the  world. 
They  were  opened  in  1865,  and  cost  $3,000,000.  They 
cover  350  acres  (three  fifths  roofed  over)  with  eight  miles  of 
streets  ;  and  receive  over  8,000,000  head  of  live-stock  yearly. 
More  than  $200,000,000  worth  of  live-stock  is  sold  here 
yearly.  Near  by  are  enormous  meat-packing  houses,  with 
modern  appliances  of  wonderful  ingenuity.  The  meats  ship- 
ped from  Chicago  yearly  exceed  $100,000,000  in  value,  being 
almost  one  third  of  the  entire  export.  Goods  are  imported  in  bond  from  Europe  to  Chicago 
to  the  amount  of  $4,000,000  worth  yearly.  The  exports  are  vastly  greater,  and  consist 
mainly  of  wheat  and  meat. 

Chicago  has  a  number  of  grand  public  buildings.  The  Court  House  and  City  Hall 
is  a  noble  pile  of  French  Renaissance  architecture,  of  Athens  marble  and  Indiana  granite, 
with  statuary,  erected  at  a  cost  of  $4,000,000.  The  Post-Office  and 
Custom  House  is  in  the  Venetian  Romanesque  style,  with  rich  interior 
decorations  of  marble.  It  cost  $6,000,000. 

The  water  supply  of  Chicago  is  taken  from  a  crib  two  miles  out  in 
Lake  Michigan,  whence  it  passes  through  a  submarine  tunnel  to  the 
shore,  and  is  pumped  into  a  standpipe  175  feet  high.  The 
works  cost  $3,000,000,  and  furnish  150, 000,000  gallons  daily, 
yielding  a  considerable  revenue  to  trie  city  above  expenses. 
A  new  ten-foot  tunnel  leads  four  miles  out,  to  a  crib  now 
under  construction.  One  of  the  mechanical  wonders  of 
Chicago  is  the  great  gas-holder,  built  by  R.  D.  Wood  & 
Co.  of  Philadelphia  for  the  Chicago  Gas-Light  &  Coke  Co., 
182  feet  in  diameter  and  127!  feet  high,  with  a  capacity -of 
3, 100,000  cubic  feet.  It  has  three  telescopic  lifts. 

Chicago  manufactures  are  of  great  extent  and  variety,  $7,000,000  being  invested  in 
making  agricultural  implements,  with  an  annual  product  of  $16,000,000;  and  $3,000,000 
in  carriage-making,  with  a  product  of  $5,000,000.  The  yearly  product  of  furniture  is 
$6,500,000;  of  clothing,  $8,000,000;  of  leather,  $6,500,000;  of  iron  and  steel,  $20,000,000; 
of  planed  lumber,  $15,500,000;  of  printing,  $8,000,000;  of  malt  liquors,  $6,500,000; 
of  distilled  liquors,  $8, 500,000 ;  of  soap,  $3,000,000  ;  of  tobacco  and  cigars,  $5,000,000  ;  of 
cut  stone,  $5,000,000;  of  chemicals,  $3,000,000;  besides  large  quantities  of  flour  and  its 
products,  sheet  metal,  brass,  hats  and  furs,  and  confectionery. 

Chicago  is  not  merely  a  large  region  covered  with  houses 
and  factories.  It  has  a  noble  (though  recent)  development  in 
culture  and  letters,  with  libraries  of  the  first  magnitude,  educa- 
tional institutions  of  far-reaching  importance,  and  rich  musical 
and  artistic  developments.  The  parks  have  cost  $10,000,000, 
and  almost  surround  the  city  with  a  belt  of  verdure,  Lincoln 
Park  (310  acres)  on  the  north  being  united  to  Humboldt  (194 
acres),  Garfield  (185  acres)  and  Douglas  Parks  (171  acres)  on 
CHICAGO;  FIRST  REGIMENT  ARMORY.  tne  west,  and  these  to  the  great  South-Side  Parks  (165  acres) 


CHICAGO  :    CHURCH    OF   THE   COVENANT. 


214 


CHICAGO  :     SYNAGOGUE   ANSHE    MAARIV. 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES, 

by  a  system  of  noble  boulevards  and  parkways.    These  broad  pleasure- 
grounds  are  adorned  with  many  acres  of  rich  flowers,  verdant  lawns, 
lakes,  bits  of  forests,  shore  drives,  zoological  gardens,  and  con- 
servatories. 

Libby  Prison,  in  which  many  thousand  Union  officers  were 
confined  during  the  Secession  War,  was  bought  at  Richmond, 
in  1888,  taken  down,  and  carried  to  Chicago,  where  its 
carefully  numbered  beams  and  stones  were  put  together 
again,  and  now  these  horrid  walls  enshrine  a  museum  of 
war  relics.  The  Central  Music  Hall  and  the  German 
Opera  House,  the  Standard  Club,  and  the  impi'essive 
synagogue  of  the  Congregation  Anshe  Maariv,  and  other 
ornaments  of  the  city  were  constructed  by  Adler  &  Sulli- 
van, the  able  architects  of  the  Auditorium. 
The  Anglo-American  race  is  a  family  of  born  travellers,  and  its  members  are  never  more 
happy  than  when  traversing  vast  distances,  in  search  of  variety  iri  climate,  or  scenery,  or 
trade.  They  also  demand  the  utmost  possible  amount  of  comfort  while  on  their  wander- 
ings ;  and  the  ingenuity  of  their  brightest  minds  has  been  directed  toward  mitigating  the 
arduous  features  of  travel.  The  first  large  westward  migration  in  America  was  that  of  the 
three  Puritan  churches,  from  Boston  to  Hartford,  and  all  this  godly  company,  even  to 
women  and  children,  walked  the  whole  way,  through  the  pathless  woods.  Somewhat 
over  200  years  later,  the  vast  migrations  of  Americans  to  Pike's  Peak  and  California  were 
largely  conducted  by  the  slowly  crawling  wagon-trains,  requiring  weary  months  to  cross 
the  Plains.  But  now  the  luxurious  traveller  crosses  the  wide  continent  in  five  or  six  days, 
eating  delicious  meals  at  regular  hours,  sleeping  in  a  good  bed  at  night,  and  throughout 
the  long  day  watching  the  flying  landscape  through  plate-glass  windows,  and  reclining  in 
a  richly  upholstered  easy-chair.  Bathing,  shaving,  reading,  writing  and  eating  are  provided 
for  in  the  cars  of  to-day.  A  large  part  of  the  honor  for  this  achievement  belongs  to  George 
M.  Pullman,  whose  inventions  and  devices  have  been  successfully  applied  to  make  travel- 
ling a  pleasure  instead  of  a  pain.  The  sovereign  excellence  of  his  improved  cars  is  shown 
by  the  fact  that  they  are  now  in  use  on  above  70,000  miles  of  railways,  in  America  and 
Europe,  crossing  the  Alps  and  the  Carpathians  as  well  as  the  Alleghanies  and  the  Rockies, 
and  traversing  Great  Britain  in  every  direction.  These  commodious  and  luxurious  vehicles 
are  a  development,  pure  and  simple,  and  no  one  could  realize  how  many  small  elements 
enter  into  their  tout  ensemble  of  comfort,  each  one  carefully  thought  out  and  elaborated,  and 
fitted  to  its  place.  Almost  every  year  adds  some  new  and  desirable  improvement,  and  the 
Pullman  car  of  the  twentieth  century  will  be  the  acme  of  all  imaginable  security  and 
luxury.  A  fundamental  principle  with  Mr.  Pullman  made  his  work  a  success,  and  the 
same  principle  gives  to  his  corporation  an  assured  permanency  —  it  is  to  supply  the  public 
to  the  highest  extent  that  they  will  pay 
for,  always  leading  the  people  somewhat 
beyond  their  demands. 

Pullman's  Palace  Car  Company  was 
founded  in  1867,  with  a  paid-up  capital  of 
$1,000,000.  The  healthy  and  steady  in- 
crease in  the  business  has  necessitated  suc- 
cessive increases  in  the  capital  stock,  until 
it  now  amounts  to  $20,000,000,  all  paid 
in,  dollar  for  dollar,  without  a  thought  of 
watering.  These  extended  operations  have 
been  conducted  on  the  strictest  business 
principles,  always  paying  dividends.  JACKSONVILLE  :  INSTITUTION  FOR  THE  DEAF  AND  DUMB. 


THE  STATE  OF  ILLINOIS. 


PULLMAN  I     THE   ARCADE   AND    PUBLIC   SQUARE,    AND   THE    PULLMAN    CAR    SHOPS. 

In  1880  Mr.  Pullman  founded  the  city  of  Pullman,  on  the  shore  of  Lake  Calumet, 
twelve  miles  south  of  Chicago,  having  acquired  3, 500  acres  of  land  here,  on  the  open  prairie. 
Here  he  transferred  the  greater  part  of  the  company's  works,  where  the  operatives  could 
have  the  benefits  of  pure  air  and  water,  generous  liberty,  and  deliverance  from  the.  seduc- 
tions of  a  great  city.  Over  $600,000  was  spent  underground,  on  a  scientific  drainage  and 
sewage  system,  before  a  house  was  erected ;  and  then  the  best  landscape-gardeners,  civil 
engineers,  and  architects  laid  out  and  built  the  city,  with  wide  and  parked  streets,  hand- 
some public  buildings,  parks  and  theatre  and  churches,  convenient  and  picturesque  build- 
ings, and  model  factories.  The  greater  part  of  the  town  is  owned  by  the  company,  and  the 
workmen  are  tenants,  but  for  an  equal  sum  get  far  better  homes  than  elsewhere,  while  the 
corporation  also  receives  a  remunerative  interest  on  its  investment.  The  operatives,  how- 
ever, can  buy  their  homes,  and  are  not  at  all  compelled  to  live  on  the  Pullman  Company 
property.  In  fact,  about  2,000  do  not,  and  many  of  these  own  their  places.  Pullman  is  fast 
becoming  an  ideal  industrial  community,  unapproached  to-day  by  any  city  of  its  size  in 
America.  It  has  a  large  diversity  of  manufactures,  and  its  churches,  schools,  public  build- 
ings, and  homes,  are  of  a  high  order.  It  is  one  of  the  places 
in  this  country  to  which  foreign  visitors  are  always  attracted. 

One  of  the  high  culminating  points  of  American  civilization  is 
shown  in  the  wonderful  Auditorium  Building,  in  Chicago,  which 
was  erected  in  1887-90,  at  a  cost  of  $3,500,000.  This  enormous 
structure  fronts  on  three  of  the  chief  streets,  presenting  impressive 
and  commanding  facades  of  Romanesque  architecture,  abounding 
in  strong  round  arches.  It  is  as  nearly  fire-proof  as  a  structure  can 
be  made,  being  built  of  granite  and  limestone,  iron  and  steel,  with 
impenetrable  walls,  and  nothing  inflammable  except  the  furniture. 
This  greatest  private  building  enterprise  ever  undertaken  in 
America  has  been  entitled  "the  Parthenon  of  modern  civiliza- 
tion," as  the  richest  type  of  the  age  of  business  and  commercial 
activity  and  individual  comfort.  The  Auditorium  was  conceived 
and  developed  by  Ferdinand  W.  Peck,  a  wealthy  citizen  of  Chicago, 


CHICAGO:  PULLMAN  BUILDING. 


2l6 


KING^S  HANDBOOK   OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 


and  prominent  in  many  enterprises,  who  recognized  the  need  in  the  city  of  a  grand  building 
for  political,  musical,  military  and  other  conventions  and  reunions,  to  serve  the  metropoli- 
tan aspirations  of  the  Lake  City,  and  to  promote  fraternity  among  the  people  of  the  Repub- 
lic. The  architects  were  Adler  &  Sullivan,  with  Prof.  Wm.  R.  Ware  as  adviser,  and  Gen. 
Wm.  Sooy  Smith  as  consulting  engineer.  The  Auditorium  Association  includes  several 
hundred  leading  citizens  of  Chicago,  who  have  taken  stock  in  this  national  and  patriotic 
enterprise.  Among  the  component  parts  of  the  Auditorium  Building  are  the  Business  Por- 
tion, including  handsome  stores  and  136  offices;  the  Tower  Observatory,  270  feet  high,  and 
occupied  by  the  United-States  Signal  Service  on  its  lyth,  i8th,  and  igth  stories;  the  Re- 
cital Hall,  in  cream  .and  gold,  seating  500  persons ;  and  the  Auditorium,  the  largest  and 
most  sumptuous  theatre  and  opera-house  in  the  world,  with  the  most  complete  and  costly 


stage,  and  an  organ  of 
sweetness,  and  a  seating 
can  be  enlarged  to  8,000 
The  Auditorium 
mighty  pile,  and  includes 
grand  dining-room  and 
floor,  and  a  banquet  - 
trusses  over  the  theatre, 
civilization  finds  a  home 
house,  which  is  at  all 
Auditorium  Tower  has 
ble  sights  of  Chicago, 


CHICAGO  :     THE    AUDITORIUM. 


unusual  power  and 
capacity  0/4, 100,  which 
in  time  of  conventions. 
Hotel  is  a  part  of  this 
400  guest-rooms,  with  a 
kitchen  on  the  tenth 
hall  built  of  steel,  on 
Every  luxury  of  modern 
in  this  unrivalled  public 
points  fire-proof.  The 
become  one  of  the  nota- 
and  few  visitors  to  the 


city  fail  to  go  to  its  summit,  for  there  can  be  obtained  views  so  grand  as  always  to  be  remem- 
bered. Both  the  architectural  and  decorative  features  of  this  unrivalled  edifice  are  entirely 
original  in  their  treatment,  and  mark  a  new  era  in  the  history  of  construction.  It  is  generally 
admitted  that  the  Auditorium  proper,  or  the  great  hall,  surpasses  all  the  opera-houses  of 
both  Europe  and  this  country  in  beauty  of  decoration  and  finish,  as  well  as  in  capacity. 
This  architectural  pride  of  the  Great  West  occupies  a  charming  site  overlooking  Lake 
Michigan  and  its  commercial  fleets,  while  close  around  it  surge  the  life  and  activity  of  Chicago. 
The  broad  and  shady  streets  of  Springfield,  "The  Flower  City,"  intersect  each  other  on 
a  pleasant  prairie,  in  a  rich  farming  and  coal-mining  country  near  the  Sangamon  River. 
Springfield  has  been  the  capital  of  Illinois  since  1837.  Two  miles  north,  in  Oak-Ridge 
Cemetery,  is  the  great  Lincoln  Monument,  over  the  remains  of  Abraham  Lincoln.  Peoria, 
beautifully  situated  on  Peoria  Lake,  has  costly  public  buildings,  several  large  elevators,  ship- 
ping 30,000,000  bushels  of  corn  and  oats  yearly,  and  important  manufactures.  Quincy  is  a 
beautiful  city,  on  a  bold  limestone  bluff  above  the  Mississippi,  founded  in  1822  on  the  site 
of  an  ancient  Sac  town,  and  endowed  with  noble  new  public  buildings,  and  large  industries 
in  flour-milling,  meat-packing,  stove  and  wagon  making,  and  the  construction  of  machinery. 
Rock  Island  and  Moline  are  contiguous  manufacturing  cities,  on  the 
Mississippi,  which  here  falls  seven  feet  in 
three  miles,  affording  an  immense  water- 
power.  Cairo,  on  the  low  bottoms  at  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi,  has  never 
reached  the  commercial  prominence  fore- 
shadowed by  its  position,  and  is  only  kept 
from  inundation  by  a  four-mile  circuit  of 
levees.  Aurora,  a  promising  factory  and 
railroad  centre,  was  the  first  city  in  the 
world  to  light  its  streets  with  electricity  (in 
1881),  and  opened  the  first  free  public- 

CHICAGO:    AUDITORIUM  HOTEL,          i          i     •      .1       o.  r-riv         •  CHICAGO:    AUDITORIUM  HOTt 

DINING  HALL.  schools  in  the  State  of  Illinois,  many  years  ago.  STAIRCASE 


THE  STATE   OF  ILLINOIS. 


,vc 


A\ 


CHICAGO:    THE   WESTERN   SHORE   OF   LAKE   MICHIGAN. 


2l8 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


ROCK   ISLAND,    ON    THE   MISSISSIPPI    RIVER. 


Bloomington  is  an  educational  city,  with  large  car-works  and  foundries.  Alton  stands  on 
high  broken  ground  fronting  the  Mississippi,  three  miles  above  the  inflowing  of  the  Missouri, 
and  has  valuable  factories.  Galena,  perched  upon  the  steep  Fevre  bluffs,  dates  from  1826, 
?•>-.  <-• .  v  .  «^>- •  15:  and  is  the  capital 

it./;'  of  the  lead -min- 

ing country.  Jol- 
iet,  forty  miles 
southwest  of  Chi- 
cago, was  founded 
in  1834,  and  has 
factories  and  quar- 
ries, the  Joliet 

branch  of  the  Illinois  Steel  Co. ,   and  the  State  Penitentiary.     East  St.  Louis,  practically  a 
part  of  St.  Louis  (Mo.),  is  a  growing  city,  with  many  industries. 

Railways  in  Illinois  have  over  13,000  miles  of  track,  built  at  a  cost  of  $330,000,000, 
and  carrying  yearly  32,000,000  passengers,  and  54,000,000  tons  of  freight.  The  earnings 
from  freight  are  four  times  those  from  passengers.  Their  taxes  in  Illinois  amount  to 
nearly  $3,000,000.  There  are  but  three  counties  (Pope,  Hardin  and  Calhoun)  that  are  not 
reached  by  railways.  The  pioneer  Illinois  line  (in  what  was  until  lately  the  Wabash, 
St. -Louis  &  Pacific  system)  was  opened  from  Springfield  to  Meredosia  in  1838,  but  mules 
soon  supplanted  the  locomotives,  and  the  line  fell  into  disuse.  When  the  Galena  &  Chicago 
Union  Railroad  was  begun,  in  1847,  i^s  projectors  got  an 
authorization  to  build  a  turnpike  instead,  in  case  of  need. 
By  the  end  of  1848,  the  tracks  had  only  reached  Harlem,  ten 
miles  out,  and  a  year  later  they  got  to  Elgin.  Congress 
granted  to  Illinois,  in  1850,  alternate  sections  of  land  along 
the  routes  from  Galena  and  from  Chicago  to  Cairo,  to  aid  in 
building  a  railway ;  and  the  State  transferred  this  domain 
to  the  Illinois  Central  Railroad  Co.,  which  rapidly  built 
the  line.  It  contracted  to  pay  the  State  yearly  seven  per 
cent,  of  its  gross  earnings,  for  lands,  etc.,  and  Illinois  has  received  over  $io,ooo,eoo  from 
this  source.  The  Illinois  Central  runs  north  from  Cairo  to  near  Centralia,  whence  one  of 
its  lines  traverses  the  middle  of  the  State  north  by  Decatur  and  Bloomington  to  Mendota, 
and  thence  northwest  to  Galena  and  East  Dubuque ;  and  another  line  passes  more  to  the 
eastward  to  Chicago.  There  are  500  miles  of  leased  branch  roads,  making  the  total  mileage 
1,479.  The  company  has  8,500  employees,  receiving  $5,000,000  a  year. 

The  history  of  the  Chicago  &  Northwestern  Railway  system  furnishes  a  striking  illus- 
tration of  the  rapid  growth  of  the  railway  interests  of  the  United  States.    From  the  Galena 

&  Chicago  Union  Rail- 
way, consisting  of  42  miles 
in  1848,  has  grown  one  of 
the  most  extensive  and 
prosperous  systems  in  the 
world.  From  the  date 
mentioned,  year  by  year 
its  lines  have  been  ex- 
tended, until  at  the  pres- 
ent time  the  Chicago 
&  Northwestern  Railway 
system  embraces  over 
7,200  miles  of  thoroughly 
CAIRO:  THE  CONFLUENCE  OF  THE  OHIO  AND  MISSISSIPPI  RIVERS.  equipped  railway.  Its 


CHICAoO  :     FORT    DEARBORN. 


THE  STATE   OF  ILLINOIS. 


219 


lines  reach  the  great  timber  and  mining  regions  of  northern  Michigan ;  St.  Paul,  Minneap- 
olis and  Duluth  in  Minnesota ;  across  Wisconsin,  Minnesota  and  South  Dakota  to  Pierre  ; 
ami  through  Illinois,  Iowa  and  Nebraska  into  the  famous  Black  Hills  of  Dakota  and  the 
oil-fields  of  central  Wyoming.  By  a  close  traffic  alliance  with  the  Union  Pacific  system, 
superb  vestibuled  trains,  composed  of  reclining  chair-cars  and  palace  sleeping  and  dining 
cars,  are  now  run  through  between  Chicago  and  Denver  (Col.)  and  Portland  (Oregon), 
traversing  most  of  the  principal  cities  of  Iowa,  Nebraska,  Colorado,  Utah,  Idaho  and  Ore- 
gon. A  palace  sleeping-car  is  also  run  through  between  Chicago  and  San  Francisco ;  and 
the  journey  between  Lake  Michigan  and  the  Pacific  Coast  can  now  be  made  in  the  greatest 
comfort  without  change  of  cars.  The  hunting  and  fishing  regions  of  the  Northwest  are 

readily  accessible  by  the  lines  of  the  Chicago  & 
Northwestern    Railway,  and   the   perfect  train- 
service  between  Chicago  and  the  beautiful 
lakes  and  many  health-resorts  of  Wisconsin, 
Michigan,  and    Minnesota    has    made   the 


UNION  STATION      P.FTW&C.   C&A.    C.B.&Q.    C.M  &STP. 
CHICAGO  '    THE    RAILWAY   STATIONS. 

Northwestern  the  favorite  route  of  sportsmen 

and  tourists.     WTith  its  well-ballasted  road-bed,         'SOUTH  PARK  STATION     ILL. CENT 

superior  equipment  and  excellent  train-service  the  Northwestern  may  justly  claim  to  be  a 

model  railway  in  all  that  the  term  implies. 

The  Burlington  Route,  Chicago,  Burlington  &  Quincy  Railroad,  is  one  of  the  largest 
and  most  perfect  railroad  systems  in  the  world.  It  extends  from  Chicago,  St.  Louis  and 
Peoria  on  the  east  to  Denver,  Cheyenne  and  the  Black  Hills  on  the  west ;  reaching  between 
these  terminals  the  Missouri-River  centers  of  Kansas  City,  St.  Joseph,  Atchison,  Council 
Bluffs  and  Omaha;  and  serving  many  important  centers  of  trade  in  Illinois,  Iowa  and 
Nebraska,  such  as  Quincy,  Burlington,  Nebraska  City  and  Lincoln.  Its  lines  also  extend 
from  St.  Louis  on  the  south  to  St.  Paul  and  Minneapolis  on  the  north ;  and  its  main  lines 
and  branches,  aggregating  7,000  miles,  are  to  be  found  in  ten  Western  States.  They  pene- 
trate in  every  direction  the  great  corn-belt  of  Nebraska,  Colorado  and  Kansas,  and  serve 
the  mining  and  manufacturing  regions,  and  many  well-established  cities  and  towns  in  that 
territory  and  in  Illinois,  Wisconsin,  Iowa,  Missouri  and  Wyoming.  Its  geographical  posi- 
tion, and  its  relation  to  connecting  lines,  make  it  a  leading  factor  in  the  traffic  of  the 


220 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


CHICAGO:  STUDEBAKER  BROS. 


Northwest,  West  and  Southwest.  The  system  employs  25,000 
men  ;  and  at  its  centers  of  traffic  it  maintains  extensive  and 
commodious  facilities.  In  1889  the  Burlington  Route  carried 
into  Chicago  2,552,218  head  of  live-stock  and  36,059,372 
bushels  .of  grain  ;  or  23^  per  cent,  of  the  live-stock,  and  22  per 
cent,  of  the  grain  carried  into  that  city.  Its  train  service  is  un- 
excelled in  time  and  equipment,  and  includes  all  modern  appli- 
ances for  the  comfort  of  patrons.  The  Burlington's  trains  leave 
the  great  Union  Depot,  at  Chicago,  which  is  also  used  by  the 
Fort-Wayne  and  Pan-handle  Routes,  the  Chicago,  Milwaukee 
&  St. -Paul,  and  the  Alton  lines.  Two  hundred  trains  leave 
this  station  daily. 

Of  the  eastward  trunk  lines  from  Chicago,  the  Michigan 
Central,  with  its  connections,  the  New- York  Central  and  the 
Boston  &  Albany,  is  pre-eminent.  Its  four  daily  fast  through  trains  are  unsurpassed, 
perfect  in  equipment  and  service,  with  palatial  sleeping,  parlor  and  dining  cars,  running 
through  to  Buffalo,  New  York  and  Boston,  are  operated  with  a  trained  care  and  vigilance 
that  allow  a  high  rate  of  speed  with  entire  safety  and  comfort.  The  famous  North  Shore 
Limited,  heated  by  steam  and  lighted  by  the  Pintsch  gas  system,  and  supplied  with  every 

possible  convenience  and  luxury,  runs  from  New 
York  to  Chicago  in  twenty-five  hours.  This  line, 
known  as  "The  Niagara-Falls  Route,"  from  its 
being  the  only  line  running  directly  by  and  in  full 
view  of  the  great  cataract  (and  stopping  its  day 
trains  there  five  minutes  for  the  convenience  of 
its  passengers),  is  admirably  constructed,  and 
laid  with  8o-pound  steel  rails.  Its  numerous 
branch  lines  traverse  the  great  State  of  Michigan, 
~-^£p-  running  from  Toledo,  Detroit  and  Jackson  through 

CHICAGO  :  fosr -OFFICE  AND  CUSTOM  HOUSE.  the  Saginaw  and  Grand-River  Valleys,  to  the 
Straits  of  Mackinaw  and  the  principal  cities  of  the  State.  Quick  to  adopt  the  new  inven- 
tions of  science  and  the  results  of  experience,  and  to  anticipate  the  demands  of  the  travel- 
ling public,  it  keeps  in  line  with  the  great  railways  of  the  world. 

One  of  the  foremost  routes  from  Chicago  to  the  South  is  the  Louisville,  New- Albany  & 

Chicago  Railroad,  which  runs  from  the  great  Illinois  metropolis      s v 

across  the  State  of  Indiana  to  Louisville  and  down  into  Ken-  j 

tucky,  and  also  to  Indianapolis,  connecting  for  Cincinnati  and 
beyond.  This  is  a  favorite  avenue  between  the  tremendous 
business  activities  of  the  Northwest  and  the  restful  atmosphere 
and  climate  of  the  semi-tropical  Southeast,  the  fragrant  pine- 
forests  of  Georgia  and  the  orange-groves  of  Florida.  The 
traveller  lies  down  at  eight  o'clock,  at  Chicago,  and  awakens  at 
7. 1 5  in  the  morning,  at  Louisville,  323  miles  away,  and  well 
on  his  way  tp  the  land  of  winter  sunshine  and  repose.  This  is 
the  famous  "Monon  Route"  (so-named  from  a  city  where  its 
divisions  intersect)  ;  whose  various  connecting  lines  cover  the 
South  with  their  ramifications.  The  freight  business  is  excep- 
tionally heavy  at  air  times.  The  Louisville,  New- Albany  & 
Chicago  Company  underwent  a  radical  change  in  the  executive 
management  in  1889,  and  now  it  is  energetically  becoming  one 
of  the  pre-eminent  roads  of  this  country,  and  has  been  practi- 
cally rebuilt.  Within  two  years  the  line  has  been  ballasted  CHICAGO;  MONON  BLOCK. 


THE  STATE   OF  ILLINOIS. 


CHICAGO  :    THE  BOARD  OF  TRADE. 


\UI 


with  rock  and  provided  with  7o-pound  steel  rails  and  new  ties  and  new  bridges. 
The  executive  offices  are  in  the  Monon  Block,  in  Chicago.  The  President  is 
Dr.  Wm.  L.  Breyfogle,  and  the  General  Manager  is  Wm.  F.  Black. 

The  Chicago,  Milwaukee  &  St. -Paul  Railway,  with  more  than  5,000 
miles  of  track  in  Iowa,  Wisconsin,  the  Dakotas,  Minnesota,  and  Mis- 
souri, and  316  miles  in  Illinois,  runs  from  Chicago  west  to  the 
Mississippi  and  north  into  Wisconsin.  It  owns  757  locomo- 
tives and  24,  ooo  cars.  The  Chicago,  Rock-Island  &  Pacific  Rail- 
way, chartered  in  1847,  as  tne  Rock-Island  &  La-Salle  Rail- 
road, was  finished  to  Rock  Island  in  1854,  and  to  Council  Bluffs 
(500  miles)  in  1869.  It  controls  over  2,000  miles  of  track,  one 
quarter  of  which  is  in  Illinois,  with  2,854  employees.  The 
Chicago  &  Alton  Railroad  runs  southwest  from  Chicago  to 
Bloomington,  Springfield,  Alton  and  East  St.  Louis,  281  miles, 
t  with  several  branches,  and  reaches  west  to  Kansas  City.  The 
'  Chicago,  Santa-Fe  &  California  Railway  has  349  miles  in  Illinois,  running  from  Chicago 
into  Iowa  and  Missouri,  and  forming  the  eastern  section  of  the  Santa-Fe  system,  which 
reaches  the  Gulfs  of  Mexico  and  California  and  the  Pacific  Ocean.  The  St. -Louis  &  Indian- 
apolis line  has  385  miles  in  Illinois,  running 
t-A/lbk  JH  4&  northeast  from  East  St.  Louis  to  Alton,  Mat- 
toon,  and  Paris  and  beyond,  and  forming  part 
of  the  "  Big  Four  Route."  The  Ohio  &  Missis- 
sippi  line  runs  in  428  miles  from  East  St.  Louis 
to  Vincennes.  The  great  railroads  from  Chicago 
to  the  East  have  but  little  of  their  mileage  in 
Illinois.  The  Pittsburgh,  Fort-Wayne  &  Chicago 
has  15  miles  (70  of  track)  out  of  its  468  miles 
here ;  the  Lake- Shore  &  Michigan  Southern, 
CHICAGO  :  THE  CHICAGO  RIVER.  !4  out  of  2j  I92  .  ^  Baltimore  &  Ohio,  six  ;  the 

Michigan  Central,  six ;  and  other  lines  quickly  pass  into  Indiana.  Among  the  other  im- 
portant north  and  south  lines  are  the  Chicago  &  Eastern-Illinois,  265  miles  in  Illinois ; 
Chicago  &  Ohio-River,  91  ;  and  Cairo,  Vincennes  &  Chicago,  297.  The  Wabash  Rail- 
road Company's  main  line  runs  from  Toledo  (Ohio)  by 
Decatur  and  Springfield,  to  Bluffs,  111.  (413  miles), 
with  171  miles  in  Illinois.  There  are  also  routes  served 
by  this  company  from  Chicago  to  Altamont,  214  miles, 
and  from  Decatur  to  East  St.  Louis,  no  miles.  The 
Mobile  &  Ohio,  St. -Louis  &  Cairo,  and  Louisville  & 
Nashville  control  important  lines  in  southern  Illinois. 
Besides  its  network  of  railways  and  navigable  waters, 
Illinois  has  75,000  miles  of  roads  and  turnpikes. 

The  Illinois  &  Michigan  Canal  runs  from  Chicago 
96  miles  to  La  Salle,  the  head  of  navigation  on  the 
Illinois  River.  It  cost  $6,600,000.  In  1876-80  Chicago 
deepened  this  canal,  at  a  cost  of  $3,250,000,  so  that 
the  Chicago  River  now  flows  out  of  Lake  Michigan 
and  down  to  the  Illinois,  carrying  in  part  the  sewage 
of  the  great  city.  As  first  planned,  in  1836,  it  was  in- 
tended for  a  ship-canal,  and  the  United  States  granted 
the  right  of  way,  but  the  financial  embarrassment  of 
the  State  checked  the  work,  and  reduced  its  scale.  At 
some  future  time  this  scheme  may  be  realized. 


CHICAGO  I     MASOMC    TtMPLE. 


220 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


CHICAGO  I    STUDEBAKER    BROS. 


Northwest,  West  and  Southwest.  The  system  employs  25,000 
men  ;  and  at  its  centers  of  traffic  it  maintains  extensive  and 
commodious  facilities.  In  1889  the  Burlington  Route  carried 
into  Chicago  2,552,218  head  of  live-stock  and  36,059,372 
bushels  .of  grain  ;  or  23^  per  cent,  of  the  live-stock,  and  22  per 
cent,  of  the  grain  carried  into  that  city.  Its  train  service  is  un- 
excelled in  time  and  equipment,  and  includes  all  modern  appli- 
ances for  the  comfort  of  patrons.  The  Burlington's  trains  leave 
the  great  Union  Depot,  at  Chicago,  which  is  also  used  by  the 
Fort-Wayne  and  Pan-handle  Routes,  the  Chicago,  Milwaukee 
&  St. -Paul,  and  the  Alton  lines.  Two  hundred  trains  leave 
this  station  daily. 

Of  the  eastward  trunk  lines  from  Chicago,  the  Michigan 
Central,  with  its  connections,  the  New-York  Central  and  the 
Boston  &  Albany,  is  pre-eminent.  Its  four  daily  fast  through  trains  are  unsurpassed, 
perfect  in  equipment  and  service,  with  palatial  sleeping,  parlor  and  dining  cars,  running 
through  to  Buffalo,  New  York  and  Boston,  are  operated  with  a  trained  care  and  vigilance 
that  allow  a  high  rate  of  speed  with  entire  safety  and  comfort.  The  famous  North  Shore 
Limited,  heated  by  steam  and  lighted  by  the  Pintsch  gas  system,  and  supplied  with  every 

possible  convenience  and  luxury,  runs  from  New 
York  to  Chicago  in  twenty-five  hours.  This  line, 
known  as  "The  Niagara-Falls  Route,"  from  its 
being  the  only  line  running  directly  by  and  in  full 
view  of  the  great  cataract  (and  stopping  its  day 
trains  there  five  minutes  for  the  convenience  of 
its  passengers),  is  admirably  constructed,  and 
laid  with  8o-pound  steel  rails.  Its  numerous 
branch  lines  traverse  the  great  State  of  Michigan, 
running  from  Toledo,  Detroit  and  Jackson  through 
the  Saginaw  and  Grand-River  Valleys,  to  the 
Straits  of  Mackinaw  and  the  principal  cities  of  the  State.  Quick  to  adopt  the  new  inven- 
tions of  science  and  the  results  of  experience,  and  to  anticipate  the  demands  of  the  travel- 
ling public,  it  keeps  in  line  with  the  great  railways  of  the  world. 

One  of  the  foremost  routes  from  Chicago  to  the  South  is  the  Louisville,  New- Albany  & 
Chicago  Railroad,  which  runs  from  the  great  Illinois  metropolis 
across  the  State  of  Indiana  to  Louisville  and  down  into  Ken- 
tucky, and  also  to  Indianapolis,  connecting  for  Cincinnati  and 
beyond.  This  is  a  favorite  avenue  between  the  tremendous 
business  activities  of  the  Northwest  and  the  restful  atmosphere 
and  climate  of  the  semi-tropical  Southeast,  the  fragrant  pine- 
forests  of  Georgia  and  the  orange-groves  of  Florida.  The 
traveller  lies  down  at  eight  o'clock,  at  Chicago,  and  awakens  at 
7.15  in  the  morning,  at  Louisville,  323  miles  away,  and  well 
on  his  way  tp  the  land  of  winter  sunshine  and  repose.  This  is 
the  famous  "Monon  Route"  (so-named  from  a  city  where  its 
divisions  intersect)  ;  whose  various  connecting  lines  cover  the 
South  with  their  ramifications.  The  freight  business  is  excep- 
tionally heavy  at  alF  times.  The  Louisville,  New-Albany  & 
Chicago  Company  underwent  a  radical  change  in  the  executive 
management  in  1889,  and  now  it  is  energetically  becoming  one 
of  the  pre-eminent  roads  of  this  country,  and  has  been  practi- 
cally rebuilt.  Within  two  years  the  line  has  been  ballasted  CHICAGO  ;  MONON  BLOCK. 


CHICAGO:  I^OST-OFFICE  AND  CUSTOM  HOUSE. 


THE  STATE   OF  ILLINOIS. 


CHICAGO  :  THE  BOARD  OF  TRADE. 


with  rock  and  provided  with  yo-pound  steel  rails  and  new  ties  and  new  bridges. 
The  executive  offices  are  in  the  Monon  Block,  in  Chicago.  The  President  is 
Dr.  Win.  L.  Breyfogle,  and  the  General  Manager  is  Wm.  F.  Black. 

The  Chicago,  Milwaukee  &  St. -Paul  Railway,  with  more  than  5,000 
miles  of  track  in  Iowa,  Wisconsin,  the  Dakotas,  Minnesota,  and  Mis- 
souri, and  316  miles  in  Illinois,  runs  from  Chicago  west  to  the 
Mississippi  and  north  into  Wisconsin.  It  owns  757  locomo- 
tives and  24,000  cars.  The  Chicago,  Rock-Island  &  Pacific  Rail- 
way, chartered  in  1847,  as  tne  Rock-Island  &  La-Salle  Rail- 
road, was  finished  to  Rock  Island  in  1854,  and  to  Council  Bluffs 
(500  miles)  in  1869.  It  controls  over  2,000  miles  of  track,  one 
quarter  of  which  is  in  Illinois,  with  2,854  employees.  The 
Chicago  &  Alton  Railroad  runs  southwest  from  Chicago  to 
Bloomington,  Springfield,  Alton  and  East  St.  Louis,  281  miles, 
with  several  branches,  and  reaches  west  to  Kansas  City.  The 
Chicago,  Santa-Fe  &  California  Railway  has  349  miles  in  Illinois,  running  from  Chicago 
•into  Iowa  and  Missouri,  and  forming  the  eastern  section  of  the  Santa-Fe  system,  which 
reaches  the  Gulfs  of  Mexico  and  California  and  the  Pacific  Ocean.  The  St. -Louis  &  Indian- 
apolis line  has  385  miles  in  Illinois,  running 
northeast  from  East  St.  Louis  to  Alton,  Mat- 
toon,  and  Paris  and  beyond,  and  forming  part 
of  the  "  Big  Four  Route."  The  Ohio  &  Missis- 
sippi line  runs  in  428  miles  from  East  St.  Louis 
to  Vincennes.  The  great  railroads  from  Chicago 
to  the  East  have  but  little  of  their  mileage  in 
Illinois.  The  Pittsburgh,  Fort-Wayne  &  Chicago 
has  15  miles  (70  of  track)  out  of  its  468  miles 
here ;  the  Lake-Shore  &  Michigan  Southern, 
14  out  of  2, 192  ;  the  Baltimore  &  Ohio,  six  ;  the 
Michigan  Central,  six ;  and  other  lines  quickly  pass  into  Indiana.  Among  the  other  im- 
portant north  and  south  lines  are  the  Chicago  &  Eastern-Illinois,  265  miles  in  Illinois ; 
Chicago  &  Ohio-River,  91 ;  and  Cairo,  Vincennes  &  Chicago,  297.  The  Wabash  Rail- 
road Company's  main  line  runs  from  Toledo  (Ohio)  by 
Decatur  and  Springfield,  to  Bluffs,  111.  (413  miles), 
with  171  miles  in  Illinois.  There  are  also  routes  served 
by  this  company  from  Chicago  to  Altamont,  214  miles, 
and  from  Decatur  to  East  St.  Louis,  no  miles.  The 
Mobile  &  Ohio,  St. -Louis  &  Cairo,  and  Louisville  & 
Nashville  control  important  lines  in  southern  Illinois. 
Besides  its  network  of  railways  and  navigable  waters, 
Illinois  has  75,000  miles  of  roads  and  turnpikes. 

The  Illinois  &  Michigan  Canal  runs  from  Chicago 
96  miles  to  La  Salle,  the  head  of  navigation  on  the 
Illinois  River.  It  cost  $6,600,000.  In  1876-80  Chicago 
deepened  this  canal,  at  a  cost  of  $3,250,000,  so  that 
the  Chicago  River  now  flows  out  of  Lake  Michigan 
and  down  to  the  Illinois,  carrying  in  part  the  sewage 
of  the  great  city.  As  first  planned,  in  1836,  it  was  in- 
tended for  a  ship-canal,  and  the  United  States  granted 
the  right  of  way,  but  the  financial  embarrassment  of 
the  State  checked  the  work,  and  reduced  its  scale.  At 
some  future  time  this  scheme  may  be  realized. 


CHICAGO  :     THE    CHICAGO    RIVER. 


CHICAGO  :     MASOMC    TtMPLE. 


224 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


CHICAGO  :     JAMES  S.    KIRK  &  CO. 


On  the  site  of  the  first  house  ever  built  in  Chicago — at  first  Au  Sable's  and  later  John 

Kinzie's  —  stand  the  enormous  and  famous  soap? 
and  glycerine  works  of  James  S.  Kirk  &  Co.,  the 
largest  house  of  its  class  on  the  American  conti- 
nent. Kirk's  soaps  are  among  the  comparatively 
small  list  of  goods  that  are  favorably  known  itf 
almost  all  the  households  of  the  whole  Union.  In 
Chicago  it  is  one  of  the  most  familiar  of  the  great| 
factories,  for  the  immense  five-story  and  basement 
substantial  brick  buildings  stretch  conspicuously 
along  the  river  bank  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of' 
the  wholesale  business  district.  The  large  chimney, 
282  feet  high,  that  gives  draft  to  the  fires  in  boilers, 
supplying  1,600  horse-power,  looms  up  to  attract  attention  from  all  directions.  In  these 
buildings  there  are  five  acres  of  floor  surface,  wherein  about  700  people  are  given  constant 
employment.  There  are  four  main  departments:  (i)  the  laundry  soaps,  including  the 
every- where-popular  brands  of  "American  Family"  and  "White  Russian;"  (2)  the  toilet 
soaps,  with  a  list  of  hundreds  of  varieties  of  exquisite  soaps,  ^^^~~-~^ 

chief  among  which  are   "  Shandon  Bells"  and  "Juvenile;"  (3)  ,  \ 

the  perfumery,  with  its  specialty  of  "Shandon  Bells  Perfume," 
and  many  varieties  of  toilet  waters,  concentrated  essences,  and 
toilet  preparations  ;  and  (4)  the  glycerine,  where  the  aim  has 
been  to  obtain  a  chemically  pure  preparation,  as  well  as  all  quali- 
ties for  technical  uses.  Taken  altogether,  this  house,  established 
in  1839  by  James  S.  Kirk,  and  now  conducted  by  his  seven  sons, 
is  one  of  the  most  notable  of  the  industries  of  Illinois. 

Fort  Dearborn  was  constructed  in  1803.  It  consisted  of  two 
block-houses  and  a  parade-ground,  enclosed  by  a  strong  pali- 
sade. The  block  at  the  corner  of  Michigan  Avenue  and  River 
Street  now  bears  a  marble  tablet,  thus  inscribed  :  This  building 
occupies  the  site  of  old  Fort  Dearborn,  which  extended  a  little 
across  Michigan  Avenue  and  somewhat  into  the  river  as  it  now 
is.  The  fort  was  built  in  1803-4,  forming  our  outmost  defense. 
By  order  of  Gen.  Hull  it  was  evacuated  August  15,  1812, 
after  its  stores  and  provisions  had  been  distributed  among  the  In- 
dians. Very  soon  after  the  Indians  attacked  and  massacred  about  fifty  of  the  troops  and  a 
number  of  citizens,  including  women  and  children,  and  next  day  burned  the  fort.  In  1816  it 
was  rebuilt,  but  after  the  Black-Hawk  war  it  went  into  gradual  disuse,  and  in  May,  1837,  was 
abandoned  by  the  army,  but  was  occupied  by  various  government  officers  till  1857,  when  it  was 

torn  down,  excepting  a  single  building,  which 
stood  upon  the  site  till  the  great  fire  of  Oct.  9, 1 87 1. 
The  McCormick  Harvesting  Machine  Com- 
pany is  the  outgrowth  of  the  original  invention 
of  the  reaping  machine,  by  Cyrus  H.  McCor- 
mick, in  1831.  This  machine  is  now  universally 
admitted  to  be  one  of  the  wonders  of  the  age, 
and  has  made  it  possible  for  the  United  States 
to  become  the  greatest  agricultural  country  in 
the  world.  After  manufacturing  his  machine  in 
a  small  way  in  Virginia,  Mr.  McCormick  moved 
to  Cincinnati,  in  1846,  and  in  1847  ne  estab- 
MCCORMICK  HARVESTING  MACHINE  co.  Hshed  his  great  business  in  Chicago.  Since  then 


CHICAGO:  GERMAN  OPERA  HOUSE. 


THE  STATE   OF  ILLINOIS. 


225 


the  works  have  grown  to  mammoth  proportions,  and  the  McCormick  Harvesting  Machine 
Co.  to-day  leads  the  world  in  the  manufacture  of  agricultural  implements.  From  an  output 
of  50  machines,  in  1844,  the  business  has  grown  to  the  enormous  aggregate  of  123,570  ma- 
chines in  1890.  Besides  reapers,  mowers,  binders  and  other  kinds  of  harvesters,  this  concern 
furnished  yearly  8,000  tons  of  Manila  and  Sisal  twine  to  the  farmers  of  the  great  North- 
west, with  which  to  bind  their  grain.  The  works  cover  37  acres  of  flooring,  with  good  dock- 
age on  the  South  Branch  of  the  Chicago  River.  Upwards  of  2,000  men  are  employed  here, 
to  say  nothing  of  the  vast  army  of  agents  engaged  in  the  sale  and  distribution  of  their  har- 
vesting machines  throughout  the  world.  In  the  harvesting-machine  business  the  late  Cyrus 
II.  McCormick  was  the  pioneer,  and  through  his  machine  is  now  universally  regarded  as 
one  of  the  notable  benefactors  of  the  human  race. 

The  great  business  of  the  Crane  Company  of  Chi- 
cago began  in  1855,  wnen  Richard  T.  Crane,  a  young 
New- Jersey  mechanic,  opened  a  little  brass  foundry  in 
a  corner  of  the  lumber-yard  belonging  to  his  uncle, 
Martin  Ryerson.     A  brother,  Charles  S.  Crane,  soon 
joined  Richard,  and  the  business  developed  rapidly  and 
securely,  taking  in  steam-heating  machinery  in  1858, 
an   iron-foundry  in  1860,  and  a 
wrought-iron  pipe-mill  in   1864. 
The  Crane  Bros.  Mfg.  Company 
changed  its  name  in  1890  to  the 
Crane  Company;  and  now, 
with  a  capital  of  $2, 500,000, 
employs  1,850  oper-   |  ^Mjfej^HUjBP^  ^T^jl-JfeSltiiilk  atiyes>   ant^  owns   and   oc- 

cupies several  largi-  ^J^fe^  ^SgSjf*2  '%*!v  Pi  brick  buildings  especially 
constructed  for  its  EJffilSiii^Sr  t^jjjjfm business.  This  pioneer 

house  manufactures  the  largest  line  of    ly  ^^^SS steam   and  &as   fittings    in 

America,  and  controls  the  use  of  many  patented   articles  of   unus- 

ual  ingenuity  and  value.     The    Crane  Elevator  Company,  making 

passenger  and  freight  elevators,  is  an  offshoot  of  this  corporation. 

The  Link-Belt  Machinery  Company  is  typical  of  American  ingenuity  for  practical  uses. 
It  is  an  outgrowth  of  the  great  business  in  transportation  and  trans-shipment  which  has 
been  a  part  of  the  development  of  our  Northwestern  empire.  It  was  incorporated  in  1880, 
since  which  the  capital  stock  has  been  advanced  from  $20,000  to  $350,000.  The  works 
cover  six  acres,  at  Chicago,  and  here  great  varieties  of  machinery  and  contrivances  are  de- 
signed and  constructed  for  the  handling  of  any  material  in  bulk  or  package,  and  for  the  trans- 
mission of  power.  This  company  is  closely  allied  to  the  Link-Belt  Engineering  Company 
of  Philadelphia,  which  supplies  New  York  and  the  East  with  machinery  of  a  similar  char- 
acter. The  Ewart  link-belting,  of  links  of  re- 
fined malleable  iron,  is  made  in  31  regular 
sizes,  and  largely  used  instead  of  leather-belt- 
ing (being  less  wasteful  of  power),  in  flour- 
mills  and  grain-elevators,  breweries  and  malt- 
houses,  tanneries  and  sugar-refineries.  The 
company  also  makes  elevators,  conveyors,  gear- 
ing, and  countless  other  ingenious  devices. 

The  Adams  &  Westlake  Company  is  an  ab- 
sorption of  the  old  firm  of  Dane,  Westlake  & 
Covert,  and  the  manufacturing  interests  of 
Crerar,  Adams  &  Co.,  who  were  at  Chicago  the  pioneer  merchants  in  railway  supplies  in 
the  West.  John  Crerar,  the  senior  member  of  the  firm,  died  in  1889,  full  of  honors  and  of 


CHICAGO  :    LINK-BELT    MACHINERY    COMPANY. 


226 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE    UNITED   STATES. 


wealth,  leaving  a  fortune  of  $5,000,000  to  relatives 
and  charities,  and  half  of  it  to  found  a  library. 
There  were  many  articles,  such  as  lamps,  lanterns, 
and  car-hardware  and  trimmings,  which  railroads 
needed,  but  which  could  not  well  be  carried  in 
stock,  so  they  established  a  manufacturing  depart- 
ment to  meet  these  wants.  J.  McGregor  Adams 
has  been  the  president  since  the  company's  incor- 
poration, in  1874,  and  the  concern  is  the  largest 
manufactory  of  railroad  and  street-car  lamps  and 
hardware  in  America,  employing  a  thousand  men, 
CHICAGO  :  ADAMS  &  WESTLAKE  COMPANY.  and  occupying  an  entire  block  with  its  works. 

Among  the  products  of  the  Adams  &  Westlake  Co.  are  also  a  large  variety  of  oil  and  vapor 
stoves,  numerous  specialties  in  the  hardware  line,  and  brass  bedsteads. 

One  of  the  few  great  wholesale  hardware  houses  in  the  world  was  founded  at  Chicago  in 
1855  ;  and  nine  years  ago  received  incorporation  as  Hibbard,  Spencer,  Bartlett  &  Co.  It 
has  trebled  its  size  during  the  last  fifteen  years,  and  is  still  advancing.  It  employs  350  men, 
and  a  capital  of  more  than  a  million  dollars.  Besides  its  warehouses,  it  occupies  six  contig- 
uous and  connected  five-story  buildings,  making -one  huge  establishment.  The  basement  is 
filled  with  heavy  articles,  like  nails  and  chains,  and  sheet 
and  galvanized  iron  ;  the  ground  floor,  with  offices,  and 
samples  of  all  the  lines  of  goods  ;  the  second  floor,  with 
mechanics'  tools,  builders'  and  shelf  hardware,  bicycles 
and  sporting  goods,  guns  and  ammunition  ;  the  third 
floor,  with  tin  and  wire  goods,  cast  hollow-ware,  and 
lanterns  ;  the  fourth  floor,  with  spades  and  shovels,  and 
packing  for  shipment ;  and  the  fifth  floor,  with  farm- 
ing and  gardening  implements.  The  demand  for  these 
articles  is  unlimited,  especially  in  the  newer  States ; 
and  commercial  travellers  represent  the  house  in  the  re- 
motest regions,  replenishing  the  depleted  stocks  of  the  retailers  with  the  endless  varieties 
and  many  grades  of  metal  goods  of  American  and  foreign  make. 

The  present  tendency  of  the  commercial  and  industrial  world  to  concentrate  and  econo- 
mize is  remarkably  exemplified  in  the  growth  of  the  American  Wheel  Company,  whose 
headquarters  are  at  Chicago.  This  company  was  incorporated  late  in  1889,  and  immediately 
acquired,  by  purchase,  six  of  the  leading  wheel-making  plants  in  America.  The  companies 
dius  purchased .  were  the  Woodburn  "  Sarven- Wheel "  Co.,  of  Indianapolis  (Ind.);  N.  G. 
Olds  &  Son,  of  Fort  Wayne  (Ind.);  the  Keyes  Mfg.  Co.,  of  Terre  Haute  (Ind.);  the  San- 
dusky  Wheel  Co.,  of  Sandusky  (Ohio);  Hoopes  Bro.  &  Darlington  Co.,  of  West  Chester 
(Pa.);  and  the  Wapakoneta  Spoke  &  Wheel  Co.,  of  Wapakoneta  (Ohio).  This  confedera- 
tion has  gradually  been  increased  until  the  American  Wheel  Company  now  owns  and  operates 
directly  or  indirectly  upwards  of  30  plants,  scattered  over  a  large  portion  of  the  Union.  The 
American  Wheel  Company  is  not  a  Trust,«but  a  plain  corporation,  organized  under  the 
laws  of  Illinois,  with  a  capital  of  $3,000,000,  which  is  being  used  in  the  manufacture  of 
vehicle  wheels.  Immediately  upon  acquiring  the  plants,  this  company  set  about  system- 
atizing the  work  in  each  factory,  until  at  the  present  time  but  two  or  three  sizes  are  manu- 
factured, where  the  variety  before  was  almost  unlimited.  By  this  action  the  cost  of  pro- 
duction has  been  materially  decreased,  and  in  addition,  the  company  has  cut  off  all  selling 
expenses,  and  by  being  large  purchasers  of  material  are  able  to  place  their  product  upon  the 
market  at  a  much  less  cost  than  could  have  possibly  been  reached  by  any  of  the  individual 
concerns  which  this  corporation  purchased.  The  company  is  in  a  prosperous  condition, 
with  a  largely  increased  business. 


HIBBARD,  SPENCER,   BARTLETT  &  CO. 


CHICAGO  t    MARSHALL  FIELD  &  CO. 


THE   STATE   OF  ILLINOIS. 


Away 
back  in  the 
fifties,  Pot- 
ter Palmer 
founded 
a  dry  goods 
busi  ness 
in  Chicago; 
and  in  1865 
Marshall 
Field,  Levi 


227 


CHICAGO  !    MARSHALL  FIELD  &  CO.     (WHOLESALE.) 


Z.  Leiter  and  Milton  J.  Palmer  succeeded  to  it, 
under  the  name  of  Field,  Leiter  &  Co.,  which  in  1881  became  Marshall  Field  &  Co.  This 
is  the  largest  house  in  its  line  in  America,  employing  3,500  persons,  and  having  branch 
offices  at  New  York,  Manchester,  Paris  and  Chemnitz.  The  business  reaches  $37,000,000 
a  year,  about  one  fifth  of  which  is  at  retail.  They  distribute  goods  throughout  the  entire 
United  States,  purchasing  immense  quantities  for  cash,  and  thus  being  able  to  supply  the 
trade  and  others  at  the  lowest  possible  prices.  At  all  seasons  they  carry  very  large  stocks, 
not  only  of  imported  and  American  dry-goods,  but  also  of  furnishings  and  carpets,  upholster- 
ing goods,  furs,  and  many  other  lines.  The  retail  building  is  hardly  surpassed  in  spacious- 
ness and  beauty ;  while  the  wholesale  building,  designed  by 
H.  H.  Richardson,  and  built  by  Norcross  Brothers,  forms  the 
most  magnificent  commercial  edifice  on  the  continent.  These 
two  structures  are  in  different  parts  of  Chicago,  and  cover 
great  areas  of  ground. 

In  the  matter  of  clothing  the  citizens  of  the  Northwest, 
whether  men  or  youths,  boys  or  children,  the  firm  of  Henry 
W.  King  &  Co.,  of  Chicago,  is  the  largest  single  manufacturer. 
This  firm  was  founded  in  1854,  as  Barrett,  King  &  Co.  Mr. 
Barrett  retired  in  1864,  when  the  firm  changed  to  King,  Kel- 
logg &  Co.  ;  and  in  1868  the  firm  dissolved,  and  Mr.  King 
associated  with  himself,  Wm.  C.  Browning  and  Edward  W. 
Dewey,  of  New  York,  under  the  firm-names  of  Henry  W.  King  &  Co.,  Chicago,  as  whole- 
salers, and  Browning,  King  &  Co.,  New  York,  as  manufacturers.  Besides  their  jobbing 
business  at  Chicago,  which  is  an  extensive  one,  they  have  retail  stores  in  New  York,  Brook- 
lyn, Philadelphia,  Cincinnati,  St.  Louis,  Kansas  City,  Omaha,  Minneapolis,  St.  Paul,  Mil- 
waukee and  Chicago.  Fully  4,000  persons  are  in  the  employ  of  these  ^concerns,  and  the 
pay-roll  of  the  New- York  factory  is  $1,000,000  a  year,  and  the  general  output  of  clothing, 
between  four  and  five  million  dollars  annually,  reaching  all  parts  of  America. 

The  ladies  of  all  the  great  interior  and  Western 
States  are  largely  supplied  with  their  millinery,  furnish- 
ings and  fancy  goods  from  stocks  supplied  by  D.  B. 
Fisk  &  Co.,  of  Chicago,  probably  the  largest  and  most 
ably  managed  house  of  the  kind  in  the  world.  Their 
emporium  covers  six  large  and  well-lighted  floors,  each 
nearly  half  an  acre  in  area,  with  artistic  displays  of 
costly  ribbons  and  feathers,  beautiful  flowers,  fine  straw 
goods  and  other  attractive  articles,  from  their  own  fac- 
tory, as  well  as  from  the  most  famous  manufactories  in 
Europe  and  elsewhere.  The  house  was  founded  in 
1853,  by  D.  B.  Fisk,  who  has  seen  it  grow  into  an  im- 
mense establishment,  with  500  employes,  and  a  whole-  CHICAGO  :  D.  B.  FISK  &  co. 


CHICAGO  :    HENRY  W.   KING  &  CO. 


228 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


CHICAGO  : 
MANUAL  TRAINING  SCHOOL. 


sale  trade  reaching  over  more  than  half  a  continent.  One  of 
the  chief  needs  of  a  millinery  house  is  intimate  connection 
with  the  European  centres  of  fashion ;  and  the  arrangements 
here  are  so  perfect,  that  this  firm  offers  the  choicest  French 
and  Continental  novelties  to  its  patrons  simultaneously  with 
their  appearance  in  the  fashion  centres  of  Europe. 

Few  houses  in  Chicago,  or  the  whole  west,  are  more  honorably 
known  than  E.  \V.  Blatchford  &  Co.,  whose  trade-mark  motto  — 
"reputation,  a  tower  of  strength  "  — has  been  truly  borne  out  in 
an  uninterrupted  career  of  almost  40  years.  The  business  was 
— ~  established  in  1854,  and  incorporated  in  1890.  It  includes  the 
manufacturing  of  lead  and  kindred  and  alloyed  metals,  and  their 
various  products,  —  sheet,  bar,  pig  and  glaziers'  lead,  lead  pipe, 
sash  weights,  solder,  electrotype,  stereotype  and  babbitt  metals,  etc.;  and  also  the  dealing  in 
pig  tin,  and  ingot,  sheet  and  bar  copper,  antimony  of  all  grades,  spelter  and  |j|  antimonial 
lead.  Closely  allied  are  two  establishments,  which  themselves  have  a  na-  |J|  tional  reputa- 
tion—  the  Chicago  Shot  Tower  Works,  with  capacity  for 

50,000  pounds  a  day  of  their  famous  brands  of  "stand-  r-^s.'-I    - 

ard"  shot  made  into  30  sizes,  and  the  Blatchford 
Cartridge  Works,  making  a  full  line  of  cartridges. 
The  group  of  factories  are  on  the  west  side,  and  are 
substantial  brick  structures,  covering  the  greater 
part  of  a  block.  The  shot  tower,  200  feet  high,  has 
been  a  familiar  landmark  for  a  quarter  of  a  century. 
While  being  recognized  as  eminently  successful  busi- 
ness men  and  notable  manufacturers,  the  Blatch- 
fords  have  been  prominently  identified  with  charitable,  religious  and  educational  institutions. 

The  immense  development  of  the  shoe- 
manufacturing  business  in  the  West  has  been 
materially  facilitated  by  the  erection  of  com- 
pletely equipped  tanneries  in  various  localities. 
The  foremost  of  these  belongs  to  the  Walker 
Oakley  Company,  whose  enormous  Chicago 
tanneries  employ  400  men,  and  produce  yearly 
400,000  wax  calf- skins,  150,000  kips  and  50,- 
ooo  satin  calf,  which  are  disposed  of  at  the 
company's  offices  at  Chicago,  Boston  and 
San  Francisco.  This  industry  was  founded  in 


CHICAGO  ;     E.    W.     BLATCHFORD   &    CO. 


CHICAGO  I    WALKER  OAKLEY  COMPANY. 


the  sixties,  by  Joseph  H.  Walker,  of  Worcester  (Mass.),  and 
others,  and  received  incorporation  in  1890,  under  the  Illinois 
laws,  having  a  very  large  paid-in  capital  and  strong  security. 
The  trade  extends  all  over  the  country  of  the  Great  Lakes 
and  the  Mississippi  Valley,  and  is  growing  with  the  growth  of 
the  population  of  the  Northwest.  The  Walker  Oakley  Com- 
pany enjoys  peculiar  advantages  for  a  liberal  disposition  of 
its  resources  on  account  of  its  nearness  to  the  sources  of 
supply  as  regards  the  material  for  fine  grades  of  leather. 

Among  the  oldest  and  most  prominent  houses  of  Chicago 
is  that  of  M.  D.  Wells  &  Co.,  manufacturers  of  and  whole- 
sale dealers  in  boots  and  shoes,  whose  origin  dates  from  the 
year  1860,  since  which  they  have  advanced  with  steady  step, 
widening  the  area  of  their  trade.  At  present,  they  are  rated 


CHICAGO  I    M.    D.   WELLS  &  CO. 


229 


THE  STATE   OF  ILLINOIS. 

as  worth  upwards  of  $2,000,000,  and  are  adding  largely  to 
their  capital  each  year.  Chicago  is  the  greatest  distribut- 
ing point  for  boots  and  shoes  for  the  whole  West  and  South, 
and  hence  there  have  grown  up  several  enormous  houses  in 
this  line,  but  the  foremost  of  all  is  M.  D.  Wells  &  Co.  They 
have  their  own  factories,  and  use  the  whole  output  of  other 
factories  ;  and  enjoy  the  closest  relations  with  many  of  the 
manufacturers  of  New  England  and  elsewhere.  They  em- 
ploy 600  persons  in  their  factory,  with  an  output  of  3,000  CHICAGO  :  SPRAGUE,  WARNER  &  co. 
pairs  of  boots  and  shoes  daily ;  and  the  store  and  salesrooms  occupy  seven  floors,  and 
employ  75  travelling  salesmen. 

Here,  also,  at  Chicago,  is  the  great  supply-point  for  the  thousands  of  grocery-stores  and 
country-dealers  in  the  interior  of  the  continent ;  and  it  is  claimed  that  the  wholesale  grocery- 
house  of  Sprague,  Warner  &  Co.  has  the  largest  business  of  any  house  in  its  line  in 
America.  This  concern  was  founded  by  A.  A.  Sprague  and  E.  J.  Warner,  in  1862,  when  it 
began  with  a  very  small  stock  and  a  borrowed  capital.  O.  S.  A.  Sprague  entered  as  a  part- 
ner in  1863.  Increasing  year  by  year,  parallel  with  the  growth  of  its  tributary  States,  the 

company  has  attained  a  gigantic  development,  and  sends 
its  men  and  goods  throughout  all  the  interior,  Western 
and  Far- Western  regions,  with  a  trade  extending  from 
Texas  to  Manitoba.  All  the  members  of  the  firm  are 
Vermonters,  and  combine  New-England  prudence  and 
industry  with  Western  enterprise.  With  all  the  jobbing 
houses  of  Chicago,  they  were  burned  out  and  sustained 
heavy  loss  in  the  great  fire  of  1871,  but  opened  business 
the  next  day  on  the  West  Side.  A  single  truck-load  of 
.merchandise,  saved  from  the  conflagration,  comprised 
their  entire  stock  for  the  first  week,  but  unimpared  credit 
and  fast  freight  enabled  them  in  a  short  time  to  supply 
the  demands  of  their  customers. 

The  A.  Booth  Packing  Company  are  the  largest  pack- 
ers of  hermetically  sealed  canned  goods  in  the  world, 
that  is,  they  produce  the  largest  number  of  cans  actually  packed.  This  enormous  oyster, 
fish  and  canned  goods  business  was  founded  in  1850  by  Alfred  Booth,  who  is  still  at  the 
head  of  the  corporation,  which  now  operates  with  a  paid-up  capital  of  $1,000,000,  and  a 
surplus  nearly  as  large.  The  chief  offices,  at  Chicago,  and  the  21  branches,  employ  5,000 
people.  The  principal  fishing  stations  are  at  Duluth  (Minn.),  Bayfield  and  Ashland  (Wis.), 
Ontonagon,  Manistique,  St.  Ignace,  St.  James,  and  Escanaba  (Mich.),  Port  Arthur  (Out.), 
and  Winnipeg  (Man. ).  The  main  distributing  houses  are  at  Chicago,  St.  Paul,  Minneapolis, 
St.  Louis,  Omaha,  Lincoln,  Kansas  City,  and  Denver.  At  Baltimore  their  factory  has  a 
capacity  for  packing  75,000  cans  daily.  Here  their  ample  fleets 
obtain  large  supplies  of  oysters  from  Chesapeake  and  Delaware 
Bays,  and  the  choicest  fruits  and  vegetables  from  the  surround- 
ing country.  At  Astoria,  on  the  Columbia  River,  their  salmon 
packing  establishment  is  the  largest  in  the  industry.  At  Mo- 
bile their  immense  plant  is  equipped  to  pack  the  great  yield  of 
oysters  and  shrimps.  The  canned  goods  bearing  the  A.  Booth 
Packing  Company's  brands  —  "Oval,"  "Black  Diamond, "and 
"Old  Honesty"  on  Cove  oysters,  shrimp,  fruits,  vegetables  and 
fish,  are  sold  by  grocers  throughout  the  world  ;  the  prominence 
of  these  brands  resulting  from  extreme  caution  and  careful 
selection  of  thoroughly  trustworthy  goods.  This  company  are  CHICAGO  :  A.  BOOTH  PACKING  co. 


CHICAGO  I    CENTRAL  MUSIC  HALL. 


230 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE    UNITED   STA  TES. 


CHICAGO  :      H.    H.    SHUFELDT    &    CO. 


the  largest  patrons  of  the  express  companies  in  America.  Their  operations  extend  from 
the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific,  and  from  Lake  Winnipeg  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  requiring  the 
constant  use  of  several  lines  of  steamships,  running  in  connection  with  their  fishing  boats. 

The  preeminent  distillery  of  the  United  States  is 
Henry  H.  Shufeldt  &  Co.'s,  at  Chicago.  It  has  a  fame 
throughout  the  world  for  various  reasons.  Ever  since 
1849,  wnen  the  distillery  was  established,  its  goods  have 
been  recognized  as  unsurpassed.  Its  rectifying  house  was 
established  in  1857.  In  1878,  at  Paris,  in  competition 
with  the  choicest  productions  of  all  nations,  this  house  was 
awarded  the  gold  medal  "for  purity  and  excellence  of  pro- 
ducts of  distillation  over  all  competitors."  In  1891  it  was 
discovered  that  a  plot  had  been  put  into  execution  to  blow 
up  and  destroy  Shufeldt  &  Co.  's  distillery,  the  impression 
being  that  it  was  due  to  the  fact  that  this  was  almost  the 
only  formidable  house  refusing  to  enter  into  the  so-called 
"whisky  trust."  The  plant  covers  over  four  acres.  The  warehouses  can  store  25,000 
barrels.  The  capacity  is  9,000,000  gallons  a  year,  requiring  more  than  2,100,000  bushels 
of  corn.  Five  million  dollars  a  year  are  paid  to  the  Government  for  duties  on  distilled  spirits. 
Its  well-known  brands  of  "Imperial  Gin"  and  "Rye  Malt  Gin"  are  distilled  by  the  im- 
proved Holland  process.  A  special  product  is  " Grano-Gluten  Feed,"  for  feeding  cattle. 

The  American  Biscuit  &  Manufacturing  Company,  with  general  offices  at  Chicago,  is  the 
largest  corporation  in  the  world  producing  biscuits,  crackers,  bread,  confectionery  and  maca- 
roni. The  company  was  incorporated  in  1 890,  with  a  capital 
of  $10,000,000.  On  its  pay-rolls  appear  the  names  of 
3,000  people,  who  are  engaged  in  manufacturing  and  selling 
its  products.  It  is  the  largest  consumer  of  flour  and  sugar 
in  the  world,  using  10,000  barrels  of  flour  and  5,000  barrels 
of  sugar  a  week.  It  owns  and  operates  35  plants,  including 
the  principal  baking  establishments  in  the  United  States, 
the  largest  being  in  New  York,  Chicago,  St.  Louis  and 
Kansas  City.  Its  factory  in  New  York  has  the  greatest 
capacity  of  any  biscuit  works  in  the  United  States.  At 
these  plants  are  turned  out  many  well-known  specialties, 
which  enjoy  a  National  reputation  with  consumers  of  bis-  :HICAGO  :  AMERICAN  BISCUIT  &  MFG-  co- 
cuits  and  confectionery.  The  company  is  the  owner  of  the  celebrated  Dake,  Bremner, 
Dozier,  Langles,  and  other  familiar  brands  of  crackers.  Since  the  incorporation  many  im- 
provements and  economies  have  been  introduced  into  the  methods  of  manufacturing  and 
disposing  of  its  out-put,  thereby  enabling  it  to  produce  crackers  and  confectionery  of  a 
superior  quality,  and  at  a  lower  cost  than  others.  The  officers  have  had  long  experience  in 
their  line,  and  the  plants  are  managed  by  practical  men  who  have  grown  up  in  the  business. 
The  Albert  Dickinson  Company  of  Chicago  is  the  foremost  grass  and  field  seed-house  of 

the  United  States.  It  was  established  in  1854,  by 
Albert  F.  Dickinson,  the  father  of  the  president 
of  the  present  corporation.  At  that  time  the  busi- 
ness was  chiefly  on  commission  ;  but  for  many  years 
they  have  been  exclusively  dealers  in  the  products 
handled,  buying  at  and  selling  to  the  principal 
American  and  European  centres.  Albert  Dickin- 
son succeeded  to  the  business  in  1872,  since  which 
time  it  has  grown  rapidly,  especially  during  the 
CHICAGO  :  A.  DICKINSON  COMPANY.  past  ten  years.  In  1887  the  present  company  was 


THE  STATE   OF  ILLINOIS.  231 

incorporated,  with  a  capital  of  $200,000  (since  increased  to  $250,000),  and  now  their  opera- 
tions as  dealers  extend  over  the  whole  American  continent,  and  their  exports  and  imports  to 
and  from  Europe  are  very  large.  Among  the  varieties  of  agricultural  seeds  handled,  their 
specialties  are  clovers  and  timothy,  besides  the  other  staples.  Flax-seed  is  also  dealt  in 
largely,  being  shipped  in  cargoes  to  distributing  points,  and  in  carloads  to  local  crushers.  As 
importers  of  bird-seeds  they  stand  unrivalled,  and  in  pop-corn  their  output  is  probably  the 
largest  in  this  country.  The  main  offices  are  on  Kinzie  Street,  where  the  firm  occupies  sev- 
eral large  buildings;  but  the  principal  warehouse  is  a  large  brick  structure,  at  the  corner  of 
1 6th  and  Clark  Streets,  owned  and  occupied  solely  by  the  Albert  Dickinson  Company,  and 
used  only  in  re-cleaning  and  re-handling  the  various  articles  connected  with  the  business. 

The  genius  of  the  brick-making  art  is  J.  C.  Anderson,  of  Chicago,  who  has  taken  out 
several  scores  of  patents  pertaining  thereto.  Under  his  inspiration  the  material  which  had 
only  been  used  for  the  plainest  buildings  has  become  full  of  artistic  beauties  and  capabilities, 
richly  varying  in  shapes  and  sizes,  surfaces  and  colors ;  and  the  brick  industry,  which  a 
few  years  ago  was  among  the  commonest  of  manufactures,  can  now  claim  a  position  among 
the  fine  arts.  The  Chicago  Anderson  Pressed-Brick  Company,  under  Mr.  Anderson's  presi- 
dency, has  a  plant  covering  nine  acres,  on  the  North  Branch  of  the  Chicago  River,  and  em- 
ploys 200  men,  working  under  the  Anderson  patents,  in  conjunction  with  the  New-England 

and  New- York  Anderson  Pressed-Brick  Com- 
panies. These  three  corporations  control  the 
manufacture  and  sale  of  obsidian  brick,  remark- 
able for  rich  body  colors  in  browns,  grays  and 
blues ;  metallic-dressed  brick,  yielding  bronze 
and  metal-tinted  colors ;  mossed  brick,  cov- 
ered with  a  similitude  of  mosses;  aluminum 
CHICAGO  :  ANDERSON  PRESSED-BRICK  co.  brick,  silvery  and  bronze-like,  indestructible  by 

heat,  weather  or  abrasion,  and  turning  the  hardest  steel  points  ;  brecciated  enamel  brick, 
richly  colored  and  glazed,  and  adaptable  for  the  finest  interior  decorative  work  ;  plain 
enamel  and  rock-faced  brick ;  brick  in  fac-simile  of  granite  and  other  stones,  in  color  and 
grain  ;  and  a  variety  of  shapes  and  sizes  of  brick  for  decorative  uses. 

The  latest  and  greatest  of  the  Anderson  inventions  is  in  use  by  the  Chicago  Anderson 
Common  Brick  Company,  at  their  new  half-million-dollar  plant,  covering  80  acres,  and  hav- 
ing a  capacity  of  300,000  brick  a  day.  Two  tunnel-kilns  672  feet  long  run  through  the  main 
building,  and  at  their  centres  burn  perpetual  fires  of  crude  oil,  hot  enough  to  melt  steel. 
There  are  48  standard-size  cars  of  iron,  protected  by  fire-proof  coverings,  and  each  bearing 
12,000  brick,  continually  being  pushed  through  the  tunnels,  by  screw-power.  The  cars  of 
green  brick  slowly  pass  a  succession  of  intensely  hot  cars  of  burnt  brick,  moving  away  from 
the  central  fires,  and  from  their  escaping  heat  the  green  brick  are  baked  to  a  cherry  red,  even 
before  they  reach  the  fires,  where  they  receive  a  final  shrinking  heat.  Then  they  move  out 
again,  yielding  their  heat  to  in-coming  cars  of  green  brick.  They  are  loaded  from  the  press 
on  to  the  iron-kiln  cars,  and  from  these  on  to  the  cars  for  the  market,  thus  saving  a- great 
amount  of  handling  and  labor,  while  the  economy  of  fuel  and  heat  is  an  element  of  high 
value.  James  C.  Anderson,  the  inventor  of  this  marvelous  process,  is  president  of  the 
company,  which  is  capitalized  at  $600,000. 
The  works  are  on  the  Stickney  tract,  near 
the  elaborate  system  of  the  Chicago  Union  [ 
Transfer  Railway  Company.  Power  is  fur-  I 
nished  by  a  battery  of  six  large  boilers,  run- 
ning several  engines  ;  and  the  entire  plant 
is  lighted  by  electricity,  and  thoroughly 
equipped  for  efficient  service,  for  the  enor- 
mous work  devolved  upon  it.  CHICAGO  :  ANDERSON  COMMON  BRICK  co. 


232 


CHICAGO  I     CHICAGO    LUMBER    COMPANY. 


HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 

One  of  the  greatest  needs  of  the  treeless  prairie 
regions  of  the  West  is  lumber  for  building  pur- 
poses. The  largest  manufacturers  and  distributors 
of  lumber  and  building  material  is  the  Chicago 
Lumber  Co.,  with  its  numerous  yards  throughout 
the  States  of  Iowa,  Missouri,  Kansas,  Nebraska 
and  Colorado.  This  company  was  established  in 
the  year  1866,  and  now  employs  a  paid-up  capital 
of  $5,000,000  ;  and  their  yearly  sales  amount  to 
$18,000,000.  They  manufacture  and  handle  lumber  from  all  sections  of  the  country,  red- 
wood from  California,  white  pine  from  Michigan  and  Wisconsin,  yellow  pine  from  the 
Southern.  States,  and  yellow  poplar  from  Virginia,  Tennessee  and  Kentucky.  The  stock 
includes  .huge  piles  of  boards  and  joists,  laths  and  shingles,  in  all  varieties,  and  doors  and 
blinds,  battens  and  pickets,  and  other  building  materials,  in  pine,  maple,  poplar,  cypress, 
redwood  and  other  woods.  The  active  head  of  the  Chicago  Lumber  Co.  is  M.  T.  Greene, 
president  and  general  manager;  and  S.  R.  Frazier,  Jr.,  is  secretary.  The  general  offices 
of  the  company  are  at  Chicago.  Railroads  traverse  the  Chicago  yards  in  every  direction. 

The  leading  American  house  in  the  manufacture  and  introduction 
and  sale  of  athletic  goods  of  every  description  is  that  of  A.  G.  Spalding  & 
Bros.,  of  Chicago,  which  was  organized  in  1876  by  A.  G.  Spalding  and  J. 
W.  Spalding.  The  house  was  incorporated  under  the  laws  of  Illinois,  in 
1885,  and  now  maintains  large  establishments  in  New  York  and  Philadel- 
phia, as  well  as  in  Chicago.  Their  manufactories  are  located  in  Chicago 
and  Philadelphia,  and  their  capital  of  over  half  a  million  dollars  is  fully 
employed  in  the  manufacture  and  sale  of  base-ball  goods,  lawn  tennis, 
outdoor  games,  bicycles,  gymnasium  apparatus,  athletic  uniforms,  and  in 
fact  athletic  goods  of  every  description.  Everyone  interested  in  base- 
ball, the  national  game  of  America,  is  fully  aware  of  the  preeminent 
position  A.  G.  Spalding  occupies,  as  president  of  the  Chicago  Base-Ball 
Club,  and  as  one  of  the  leaders  in  the  base-ball  legislation  of  the  country. 
The  increased  interest  in  athletic  sports  is  having  a  marked  influence 
in  the  development  everywhere  of  sound  minds  and  sound  bodies,  and 
the  house  of  A.  G.  Spalding  &  Bros,  is  now,  and  has  been  for  1 5  years, 
the  leader  in  promoting  the  popular  interest  in  all  manner  of  vigorous  A-  G-  SPALDING  &  BROS. 
outdoor  recreations  and  exercises,  and  hence  is  a  benefit  to  the  American  people. 

In  1872,  the  year  after  the  great  Chicago  fire,  two  young  employes  of  crockery  houses, 
E.  II.  Pitkin  and  J.  W.  Brooks,  Jr.,  established  a  new  crockery  concern,  occupying  a  little 
frame  building  on  Michigan  Avenue.  From  this  small  germ  has  grown  the  firm  of  Pitkin  & 
Brooks,  one  of  the  greatest  American  houses  in  the  crockery  and  queensware,  glassware  and 
china  trade,  founded  safely  on  the  well-won  confidence  of  the  dealers  throughout  the  West 
and  South  and  the  residents  of  Chicago  and  transient  visitors.  Immense  importations  of 
the  finest  foreign  wares  and  consignments  of  American  goods  of  similar  character  are 
received  at  its  many-storied  Chicago  store  and  warehouses,  which 
have  very  spacious  and  attractive  show-rooms  and  retail  sales- 
rooms, the  best  in  their  line  in  America.  From  these  inexhaus- 
tible resources,  the  country  from  Canada  to  Mexico,  and  from 
the  Pacific  Ocean  to  Chesapeake  Bay,  is  largely  supplied  with 
all  grades  of  crockery  and  glassware,  from  the  heavy,  cheap  and 
serviceable  articles  used  by  the  industrial  and  rural  families  to 
the  exquisite  and  delicate  decorated  china,  Ilaviland  and  Royal 
Worcester,  and  the  diamond-like  cut  glass  which  adorn  the  tables 
of  the  wealthy, — Pitkin  &  Brooks'  special  importations. 


CHICAGO  :    PITKIN  &  BROOKS. 


5  TAT E  CAPITOL  •  1 ND1 ANAPOU  5 


STATISTICS. 


Vincennes. 
.     .          1702 
Frenchmen. 
.     .          1816 
1,3150,428 
1,680,637 
.       1,978,301 
•       1,938,798 
39,503 
1,834,123 
144,178 
1,010,361 
967,940 
2,192,404 


HISTORY. 

Indiana's  first  European 

visitor  was  La  Salle,  who, 

in   1669-70,   coasted  along 

the    Ohio    River   with   his 

brave  French  explorers  and 

opened   a   trade   with    the 

natives.       Afterwards     he 

crossed  the  portage   (near 

South  Bend)  from  the  St. 

Joseph  to  the  Kankakee.  This  brilliant  chieftain  concen- 
trated all  the  Indians  of  the  Ohio  Valley  around  his  fort  on 
the  Illinois  River,  for  mutual  defense  against  the  terrible 
Iroquois,  and  in  so  doing  he  depopulated  Indiana.  After 
the  French  founded  Detroit  the  local  tribes  wandered  back 
into  Indiana  and  settled  there.  Post  Ouiatenon,  founded 
near  the  site  of  Lafayette  in  1720,  was  the  first  military 
establishment  here,  followed,  seven  years  later,  by  the  Poste 
du  Ouabache,  which  the  Sieur  de  Vincennes,  established,  on 
the  site  of  the  present  Vincennes.  Indiana  lay  partly  in 
Canada  and  partly  in  Louisiana,  the  region  north  of  Terre 
Haute  being  governed  from  Detroit,  while  the  remainder 
received  its  rule  from  New  Orleans.  The  best  French 
officers  and  Indian  warriors  of  Indiana  were  slain  in  an 
attack  on  the  Chickasaws,  in  1736,  and  after  that  Lieut. 
St.  Ange  commanded  at  Vincennes  for  nearly  thirty  years, 
with  prudence  and  wisdom.  After  the  cession  of  the 
western  country  to  Great  Britain,  British  officers  came  to 
the  Wabash  villages  and  set  up  the  rule  of  London.  The 
residents,  descendants  of  the  Canadian  wood-rangers  (cour- 
eurs  de  bois}  and  French  soldiery,  dwelt  in  the  peace  of 
contented  peasantry,  raising  plenty  of  good  wheat,  tobacco 
and  wine,  with  the  help  of  Indian  and  African  slaves.  For 
two  thirds  of  a  century  the  French  made  one  of  their  fav- 
orite routes  from  Lake  Erie  to  the  Mississippi  River  across 
Indiana,  ascending  the  Maumee  River,  with  a  long  portage  near  Lafayette,  and  then  de- 
scending the  Wabash  and  Ohio.  Their  chief  villages  and  trading-posts  were  at  the  head 
of  the  Maumee,  Wea  Prairie  (Lafayette)  and  Vincennes.  In  1778,  George  Rogers  Clark 


Settled  at   .... 
Settled  in    .... 
Founded  by    ... 
Admitted  as  a  State,  . 
Population  in  186.), 

In  1870, 

In  1880, 

White,       .... 

Colored, 

American-born, 
Foreign-born,    .     . 

Males, 

Females,  .... 

In  1890  (U.  S.  Census), 
Population  to  the  square  mile,      55.1 
Voting  Population  (1880),          498,437 

Vote  for  Harrison  (1888),       263,361 

Vote  for  Cleveland  (1888),  260,969 
Net  State  Debt  (1890),  $3,661,723 
Assessed  Valuation  of 

Property  (1890),  .  .  $783,000,000 
Area  (square  miles),  .  .  .  36,350 
U.  S.  Representatives  (1893),  13 

Militia  (disciplined),    .     .     .        2,344 

Counties, 92 

Post-offices, 2,093 

Railroads  (miles),  ....  5,971 
Manufactures  (yearly),  $148,000,000 
Farm  Land  (in  acres),  .  21,000,000 

Farm-Land  Values,      $635,000,000 

Public  Schools, 10,000 

Average  School  Attendance,  409,000 

Newspapers, 698 

Latitude,  .  .  .  37°47'  to  4i°46'  N. 
Longitude,  .  .  84°49' to  88l>2/  W. 
Temperature,  .  .  .  — 25°  to  ioip 
Mean  Temper't'e  (Indianapolis)  52.3° 

TEN  CHIEF  CITIES  AND   THEIR   POP- 
ULATIONS (CENSUS  OF  1890). 


Indianapolis, 
Evansville,  . 
Fort  Wayne, 
Terre  Haute, 
South  Hend, 
New  Albany, 
Richmond,  . 
Lafayette  '. 
Logan  sport, 
Elkhart,  .  . 


105,436 
50,  756 
35, 393 
30,217 
21,819 
21,0^9 
16,608 
16,  243 
13,328 
11,360 


234 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 


WYANDOTTE   CAVE. 


INDIANA  :      FARM    SCENE» 


and  his  Virginians,  advancing  from  Kentucky,  captured  Vin- 
cennes  and  other  British  posts  north  of  the  Ohio.  Thereupon 
Gov.  Hamilton  led  down  a  British  force  from  Detroit  and  recap- 
tured Vincennes,  but  Col.  Clark  advanced  rapidly  against  him, 
and  after  a  close  siege  compelled  the  Royal  forces  to  surrender 
the  fort,  with  thirteen  cannon  and  $500,000  worth  of  military 
stores. 

After  the  Virginians  had  conquered  the  country,  the  greater 
part  of  Indiana  rested  under  a  court  of  justice  at  Vincennes,  which 
freely  granted  territory  to  all  applicants.  At  this  time  the  non- 
Indian  inhabitants  were  all  French  or  half-breeds,  and  numbered 
fewer  than  1, 600  persons.  Another  singular  element  came  into 
Indiana  in  1781,  when  a  force  of  Spaniards  under  Capt.  Eugenio 
Pourre  marched  across  it  from  St.  Louis  and  captured  Fort  St.  Josephs.  After  Virginia 
ceded  her  vast  inland  empire  to  the  United  States  in  1784,  the  Vincennes  administration 
became  part  of  the  Territory  Northwest  of  the  Ohio  River  ;  and  in  1 800  Indiana  became  a 

Territory,  including  also  Illinois,  Michigan,  Wisconsin 
and  part  of  Minnesota.  In  1804-5  the  jurisdiction  of 
Indiana  covered  all  the  country  from  Ohio  to  the  Ore- 
gon Country.  According  to  the  report  of  Jefferson's 
congressional  committee,  in  1804,  parts  of  Indiana  were 
to  have  been  allotted  to  the  proposed  States  of  Polypo- 
tamia,  Pelisipia,  Illinoisa,  Saratoga,  Assenisipia  and 
Metropotamia. 

Louis  XV. 's  decree  established  slavery  in  the  Missis- 
sippi and  Ohio  Valleys,  but  the  American  Ordinance  of 
1787  set  the  Northwest  Territory  apart  for  freedom.  A  strong  party  in  southern  Indiana 
favored  the  perpetuation  of  slavery  there,  and  kept  it  in  actual  operation  until  after  1840. 

In  1811  the  eloquence  of  Tecumseh  aroused  the  Shawnees 
to  hostility  against  the  American  Government.  In  November, 
1811,  Gov.  Harrison  advanced  to  the  Prophet's  Town  (seven 
miles  north  of  Lafayette)  with  900  men,  and  was  attacked  in 
camp  by  1,000  Indians  before  sunrise.  He  lost  1 88  men,  but 
finally  repulsed  the  enemy  by  a  series  of  desperate  charges,  and 
inflicted  heavy  losses  on  them,  burning  their  town  and  laying 
waste  the  country.  The  Shawnees  sued  for  peace.  During 
the  war  of  1812  Indiana  suffered  severely,  and  Fort  Wayne  and 
other  strongholds  were  assaulted  or  besieged  by  the  enemy. 

Costly  and  premature  internal  im- 
provements after  1830  reduced  the  State 
almost  to  bankruptcy,  especially  after  the 
financial  constriction  of  1837.  For  ten 
years  Indiana  could  not  even  pay  the  in- 
terest on  her  bonds;  but,  in  1847,  s^e  re~ 
sumed  this  obligation,  and  the  free  bank- 
ing law,  the  extension  of  railroads,  and 
the  inpouring  of  emigrants  ensured  a  new 
The  Name  Indiana  was  first  applied 
granted  by  the  Indians  in  1768  to  a  num- 
the  aborigines.  The  pet  name  is  THE 
Ilushers,  the  huge  white  or  Indian  bullies 
endless  sleep ;  or  from  a  frequent  local  COLFAX  MONUMENT. 


INDIANAPOLIS  : 
SOLDIERS'  AND  SAILORS'  MONUMENT. 

and  permanent  prosperity, 
to  a  tract  of  3,500,000  acres 
ber  of  traders.  It  refers  to 
HOOSIER  STATE;  from 
who  could  hush  one  to  an 
phrase,  "Who's  yer?" 


THE  STATE   OF  INDIANA 


235 


EVANSViLLE  : 
U.-S.    COURT-HOUSE   AND    POST-OFFICE. 


tns  of  Indiana  show  an  undulating  prairie  and  woodland,  with  a 
buffalo  in  the  foreground,  startled  by  the  axe  of  a  pioneer,  who 
is  felling  a  great  tree.  In  the  background  the  sun  is  rising. 

The  Governors  of  Indiana  have  been  :  Territorial, 
Wm.  Henry  Harrison,  i8oo-ii;  John  Gibson  (acting), 
1811-13;  Thos.  Posey,  1813-16.  State,  Jonathan  Jennings, 
1816-22 ;  Wm.  Hendricks,  1822-25;  James  Brown  Ray, 
1825-31  ;  Noah  Noble,  1831-37  ;  David  Wallace,  1837-40 ; 
Samuel  Bigger,  1840-43;  James  Whitcomb,  1843-48; 

Paris  C.  Dunning  (acting),  1848-49;  Jos.  A.  Wright,  1849-57;  Ashbel  P.  Willard,  1857- 

60;  Abram  A.    Hammond  (acting),  1 860-6 1  ;  Henry  S.   Lane,  1861  ;  Oliver  P.   Morton, 

1861-67;    Conrad    Baker,    1667-73;    Thos.    A.   Hendricks,    1873-77;   Jas.    D.   Williams, 

1877-80;  Isaac  P.  Gray  (acting),  1 880-81  ;  A.  G.  Porter,  1881-85;  Isaac  P.  Gray,  1885-89; 

Alvin  P.  Hovey,  1889-91 ;  and  Ira  J.  Chase  (acting),  1891-3. 

Descriptive. —  Indiana  is  the  smallest  of  the  Western  States  and  forms  /|^  nearly 

rectangle,  with  Kentucky  on  the  south,  beyond  the  Ohio  River,  Illinois 

on  the  west,  Michigan  and  Lake  Michigan  on  the  north,  and  Ohio  on  the 

east.     It  is  a  vast  undulating  plain,  inclining  toward  the  southwest, 

where,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Wabash,  it  reaches  its  lowest  point,  370 

feet  above  the  sea.     The  greater  part  was  formerly  covered  with 

forests  of  oak,  maple,  beech  and  walnut,  and  the  region  north  of  the 

Wabash  comprises  many  treeless  prairies,  brightened  by  small  lakes. 

The  sloughs  and  lagoons  of  the  north  enabled   Indiana  to  claim 

1,200,000  acres  under  the  Swamp- Act  land-grant,  and  afflicted  the 

early  settlers  with  almost  perpetual  chills  and  fever.      In  later  days  the  greater  part  of  this 

area  has  been  drained  and  improved.     There  are  21,000,000  rods  of  drain-tile  in  operation. 

North  of  Indianapolis  the  country  is  a  rich  loam,  resting  on  a  strong  clay  sub-soil.     Along 


FORT    WAYNE  I 
P.   O.   AND  COURT-HOUSE. 


Lake  Mich- 
here  is  In- 
proved  by 
the  lakes. 


igan  there  are'  fifty  miles  of  shore-line,  with  belts  of  high  sand-hills,  and 
diana's  only  lake  port,  at  Michigan  City.     This  harbor  has  been  im- 
the  Government  at  a  cost  of  $900,000,  and  admits  the  largest  vessels  on 
The  prairies  are  diversified  by  low  ridges  and  mounds  and  oak-groves, 
and  the  sluggish  streams  often  flow  through  deeply-wooded 
glens.      The  uplands  are  rich  and  productive,   except  in 
the  southeast,  and  the  river-bottoms  cover  great 
areas  of  the  best  soil.    The  tendency  of  late  years 
has  been  to  subdivide  the  farms,  mak- 
ing  a   great    number    of    homesteads. 
Land  is  held  at  from  $6  to  $100  an 
location   and   improvement.      The 
limestone   region, 
by  the  tributaries  of 
ing  knobs  from  400 


EVANSVILLE  I    COURT-HOUSE. 

acre,  depending  on  its 
Ohio  Valley  is  a  hilly 
with  abrupt  ridges,  cut 
the  great  river  and  form- 
to  500  feet  high.  Half 
a  century  ago  great  for- 
ests covered  these  rugged 
highlands,  and  much  of 
the  country  remains  in  its  primeval  condition.  Indi- 
ana is  the  westernmost  of  the  heavily-timbered  States 
on  this  parallel  of  latitude,  and  more  than  a  third  of 
its  surface  is  still  in  woodlands,  where  the  hemlocks 
and  maples  of  the  North  meet  the  cypresses  and  sweet 
gums,  pecans  and  sycamores  of  the  South.  Many  of 


TERRE  HAUTE  I   COURT-HOUSE. 


INDIANAPOLIS  I    COURT-HOUSE. 


236 


KING^S    HANDBOOK  OF  THE   UNITED   STATES. 


VINCENNES  :     CITY    HALL. 


these  trees  are  of  great  size  and  beauty.     The  lumber  product  is  above 
$16,000,000  yearly.     TheWabash  drains  three  fourths  of  Indiana,  crossing  it 
in  a  southwesterly  course  and  forming  the  western  boundary  for  100  miles.     It 
is  600  miles  long  and  has  been  ascended  300  miles  by  steamboats,  to  Logans- 
port.     There  are  six  steamboats  plying  along  the  stream  below 
Vincennes,  and  nine  steamers  run  between  Vincennes  and  Terre 
Haute  (90  miles)  and  ports  above.     The  rich  Wabash  Valley 
covers  12,000  square  miles.     The  West  Fork  (300)  miles  and  East 
Fork  (200  miles)  form  the  White  River,  which  in  fifty  miles 
k_  reaches  the  Wabash.     Its  valley  of  9,000  square  miles  is  flat 
and  heavily  timbered,  with  prairies  and  rugged  hills  in  the  west. 
The  St.  Joseph  flows  into  Lake  Michigan ;  the  Maumee  into 
Lake  Erie.     In  the  northern  counties  many  lakes  and  ponds 
spread  out  over  the  level  lowlands,  with  pleasant  scenic  effects. 

The  Climate  is  in  the  main  healthy,  although  the  north  and  northwest  winds  of  winter 
are  severe  and  cause  sharp  changes  in  the  temperature.  Spring  opens  early,  and  by  April 
the  fruit-trees  are  in  blossom.  The  mean  yearly  temperature  of  Indianapolis  varies  from 
50^0  to  56^. 

Agriculture  employs  a  great  majority  of  the  people,  and  the  rich  alluvial  soil,  nearly  a 

yard  deep,  and  with  almost  no  waste  land,  gladly 
produces  abundant  and  profitable  crops.  There 
are  9,000,000  acres  in  ploughed  land 
and  meadow  and  2,000,000  in  pasture. 
The  farm  products  of  Indiana  were 
valued  in  1870  at  $123,000,000,  and  in 
1880  at  $308,000,000.  Nearly  7,000,- 
ooo  acres  are  devoted  to  cereals,  yield- 
ing 200,000,000  bushels  yearly,  the 
average  product  to  the  acre  being  much 
greater  than  that  of  England  or  France. 
The  Wabash  Valley  is  the  richest 
known  region  for  corn  and  wheat.  The 
corn  crop  yields  in  favoring  years  130,- 
000,000,  bushels,  valued  at  over  $30,- 
000,000,  and  taking  up  nearly  3,000,- 
ooo  acres.  The  wheat  crop  exceeds  40,000,000  bushels  yearly,  worth  above  $30,000,000, 
and  occupying  nearly  3,000,000  acres.  46,000,000  bushels  of  oats  are  produced^  worth 
$7,000,000;  and  there  are  large  crops  of  barley,  rye,  clover  seed,  flaxseed,  buckwheat, 
sorghum,  potatoes 'and  tobacco.  The  clover  and  timothy  hay,  crop  passes  1,000,000  tons 

yearly,  and  has  reached  2,900,000  tons,  valued  at 
$35,000,000.  There  are  10,000,000  fruit-trees  in 
Indiana,  bearing  yearly  36,000,000  bushels  of  apples 
and  4,000,000  bushels  of  peaches.  The  fruit-bear- 
ing countries  are  mainly  in  the  northeast,  but 
peaches  are  largely  cultivated  in  the  south.  The 
orchards  yield  4,000,000  gallons  of  cider,  and  the 
vineyards  7,000,000  pounds  of  grapes.  In  the  early 
days  of  the  Swiss  immigrants  large  quantities  of  wine 
were  produced.  The  live-stock  of  Indiana  includes 
600,000  horses  and  mules,  850,000  oxen,  500,000 
milch  cows,  2,200,000  hogs,  and  1,400,000  sheep, 
EVANSVILLE  ;  eusiNtes  MEN'S  ASSOCIATION.  valued  at  $70,000,000.  The  sheep  once  numbered 


INDIANAPOLIS  :    HOSPITAL    FOR   THE    INSANE. 


INDIANAPOLIS  :     INDIANA    REFORMATORY    FOR    WOMEN. 


THE  STATE   OF  INDIANA. 


237 


CRAWFORDSVILLE  \    WABASH  COLLEGE. 


over  2,  OCX),  cxx),  and  are  mostly  in  the  north- 
east and  the  Wabash  Valley.  They  yield  4,000,- 
ooo  pounds  of  wool  yearly.  The  midland  and 
northern  counties  have  most  of  the  live-stock.  In 
1888,  1,750,000  hogs,  cattle  and  sheep  were 
slaughtered  for  food.  The  dairy  products  include 
yearly  156,000,000  gallons  of  milk,  33,000,000 
pounds  of  butter,  and  600,000  pounds  of  cheese. 
Indiana  also  sends  out  yearly  800,000  chickens 
and  poultry,  24,000,000  dozen  of  eggs  and  200,- 
ooo  pounds  of  feathers.  She  has  120,000  hives  of 
bees,  producing  over  1,000,000  pounds  of  honey  each  year. 

Minerals. —  There  are  7,000  square  miles  of  bituminous  coals,  cannel  and  block,  coking 
and  non-coking,  and  their  use  has  been  growing  since  1870.  The  block  coal  is  of  great 
value  in  smelting.  It  comes  in  cubical  blocks,  easy  to  mine  and  handle,  free  from  sulphur 
and  phosphorus,  and  burning  down  into  a  fragment  of  white  ash.  The  seams  are  from  one 
to  eleven  feet  thick  and  easily  mined,  the  deepest  shaft  being  300  feet.  A  fine  cannel  coal 
is  mined  at  Cannelton  and  elsewhere  near  the  Ohio  River,  in  {  veins  from  three 

to  five  feet  thick.      Tt  burns  freely,  with  a  brilliant  flame,  and 
has  a  conchoidal  fracture  and  a  dull  lustre.      It  is  better  than 
the  English  coal  for  smelting,  and  the  best  known 
for  making  steel,  on  account  of  its  free- 
dom from    i      phosphorus  and  sulphur. 

Natural  gas  is  found  in  a   t. 


-' 


TERRE  HAUTE  I    ROSE  POLYTECHNIC  INSTITUTE. 


LAFAYETTE  :    PURDUE  UNIVERSITY  AND  ART  SCHOOL. 

wide  belt  of  counties,  and  issues  from  400  wells,  the 
capital  invested  being  $6,000,000.  Thousands  of  fam- 
ilies use  this  product  for  heating,  cooking  and  lighting, 
and  many  large  factories  are  run  by  it.  The  State  con- 
tains large  deposits  of  hematite  iron  ore,  which  is  mixed 

with  the  Lake- Superior  and  Missouri  specular  ores.     Bog  iron  occurs  in  valuable  deposits. 

Among  other  minerals  are  sandstone  and  gypsum,  slate  and  lithographic  stone,  the  whetstone 

of  Paoli,  the  marble  of  Vevay,  the  bluestone  of  Bluffton,  white  glass-sand  and  brick  and 

porcelain  clays.     Great  quantities  of  Portland  cement  are  made  in  the  south. 

The  great  Wyandotte  Cave  near  Leavenworth  has  an  unusual  wealth  of  stalactites  and 

stalagmites,  with  a  hall  350  feet  long  and  240  feet  high,  extending  for. -miles  underground. 

Hamer's  Mill  Stream  Cave,  in  Lawrence  County,  has  been  explored  for  nine  miles,  by  canoes 

rowed  up  the  out-flowing  river.     The  French  Lick  and  West  Baden  Springs,  near  Lost  River, 

the  Indian  Springs  and  the  Trinity  Springs,  all  in 

southwestern  Indiana,  are  saline  sulphur  waters ; 

and  the  waters  of  Lodi  and  Lafayette  are  of  simi- 
lar character.     The  Grecncastle  and  Knightstown 

waters  are  chalybeate. 

Chief  Cities. —  Indianapolis,  the  centre  and 

capital  city,  was  named  in  1821,  in  a  vast  level 

forest  broken  only  by  Indian  trails,  and  laid  out  by 

one  of  the  surveyors  of  Washington   City,  with 

magnificent  avenues.    It  is  a  famous  railway  centre, 

with  fifteen  converging  lines  and  a  belt  railroad,  INDIANAPOLIS  :  THE  PROPYL/EUM. 


238 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE  UNITED   STATES. 


UNIVERSITY    OF    NOTRE    DAME. 


and  has  a  large  trade  in  grain  and  live  stock,  and  many 
manufactures,  employing  10,000  persons,  and  producing 
$30,000,000  worth  of  goods  yearly.  There  are  four 
grain  elevators,  eight  flour  and  grist  mills,  100  acres 
of  stock-yards  and  four  meat-packing  houses.  The 
churches  number  eighty,  and  many  fine  public  build- 
ings adorn  the  city.  Evansville  has  a  large  trade  by 
steamboats  along  the  Ohio  River  and  on  the  seven 
railways  centering  there,  with  exports  of  coal,  lumber, 
tobacco,  grain  and  pork,  and  400  factories,  employing 
11,000  people  and  $31,000,000  of  capital.  It  is  the  chief  trade-mart  of  the  Green-River 
region  of  Kentucky.  Fort  Wayne,  built  in  1794,  on  the  site  of  an  ancient  Miami  village 
and  an  English  fort  of  1764,  is  the  chief  city  of  northeastern  Indiana,  abounding  in  factories 
and  railroads.  Terre  Haute,  on  the  Wabash,  is  a  fast -growing  city  of  manufactures  and 
general  trade,  with  six  railways.  Logansport  is  a  pleasant  manufacturing  city,  at  the  falls 
of  the  Wabash,  in  a  rich  farming  country.  Lafayette,  on  the  Wabash  and  in  a  rich  farming 
countryvhas  large  commercial  and  manufacturing  interests.  Laporte  adjoins  the  rich  Door 
Prairie.  Corydon  was  the  State  capitol  from  1813  to  1825.  Richmond  is  in  the  rich  cereal 
country  east  of  Indianapolis.  South  Bend,  on  the  St.  Joseph  River,  is  famous  for  its  manu- 
factories of  wagons  and  other  useful  articles.  Vincennes,  the  oldest  city  in  Indiana,  and  its 
capital  from  1800  to  1813,  lifts  many  tall  spires 
in  the  heart  of  the  garden  of  the  Wabash  Valley. 
Jeffersonville  and  New  Albany  are  on  the  Ohio, 
opposite  Louisville,  and  many  river  steamboats 
are  built  on  their  shores.  Madison,  midway  be- 
tween Cincinnati  and  Louisville,  is  beautifully 
located  on  the  Ohio  River. 

The  Government  consists  of  a  governor 
and  lieutenant-governor,  elected  for  four  years, 
and  other  executive  officers ;  the  biennial  general 
assembly  of  50  four-years'  senators  and  100  two- 
years'  representatives ;  the  Supreme  Court  of  five  justices,  elected  by  the  people  ;  and  the 
circuit  and  superior  courts.  The  State  capitol  at  Indianapolis  was  begun  in  1877  and  cost 
$2,000,000.  It  is  of  Indiana  oolitic  limestone,  with  adornments  of  statuary,  polished  columns 
and  rich  interior  work  in  oak.  The  dome  is  234  feet  high. 

Charities  and  Corrections  are  relatively  less  costly  in  Indiana  than  in  many  other 
States,  because  the  commitments  for  crime  are  below  the  average.  This  is  in  part  due  to 
the  more  even  distribution  of  property  among  the  people,  who  show  an  unusual  proportion 
of  house-holders.  The  Northern  Prison,  at  Michigan  City,  has  700  convicts ;  the  Southern 
Prison,  at  Jeffersonville,  has  540.  The  House  of  Refuge  for  boys,  on  a  large  farm  at  Plain - 
field,  has  470  inmates,  governed  by  the  family  system.  At  Indianapolis  are 
_  the  great  buildings  of  the  Insane  Asylum,  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum, 
Blind  Asylum  and  Female  Reformatory. 

The  Insane  Hospital  at  Logansport  was  opened  in 
1888,  and  has  360  inmates.  The  Eastern  Insane 
Asylum  is  at  Richmond.  Another  hospital  for  the 
insane  is  at  Evansville.  The  School  for  the  Feeble- 
Minded  (340  inmates)  is  at  Fort  Wayne.  The  Sol- 
diers' and  Sailors'  Orphans'  Home  at  Knightstown 
•(-?,  has  340  inmates. 

Education  has  advanced  amazingly  since  1870, 
PLOOMINGTON  ;  INDIANA  VN.JVERSITY.  and   has   awakened   a   high   enthusiasm    among  its 


\ 


GREENCA6TLE  :    DE  PAUW  UNIVERSITY. 


THE  STATE   OF  INDIANA. 


239 


officers.     The  permanent  school-funds  amount  to  $10,000,000,  and  the  value  of  school  prop- 
erty exceeds  $i  5,000,000.    Three  fourths  of  the  school  population  is  enrolled  as  at  its  studies. 


The  ratio  of 
Haute     has 


illiterates  falls  below  one  in  1,100.     The  State  Normal  School  at  Terre 
800  pupils,  and  there  are  other  public  normal  schools  at  Indianapolis  and 
Covington.     The  private  normal  schools  are  at  Valparaiso,  Dan- 
ville,  Ladoga,   Mitchell,  Richmond,   College    Hill   and  Angola. 
DePauw  University  was  founded  at  Greencastle,  in  1837,  under 
the  name  of  Indiana  Asbury  University,  in  a  rented  two- 
room  building,  with  four  teachers.   In  1884,  largely  through 
the  liberality  of  the  late  Hon.  W.  C.   DePauw,  of  New 
Albany,  a  noble  endowment  of  over  $450,  ooo  was  raised, 
and  the  university  took  the  name  of  its  benefactor.     It  is 
LAFAYETTE  \  NEW  ELECTRICAL  LABORATORY,  supervised  by  the  four  Indiana  conferences  of  the  Metho- 
dist Episcopal  Church.     The  grounds  cover  150  acres  and 

there  are  ten  buildings.  DePauw  has  40  instructors  and  900  students,  in  a  group  of 
schools  of  arts,  law,  theology,  didactics,  music,  military  science  and  preparatory  studies,  each 
with  an  independent  faculty,  the  chancellor  and  president  being  at  the  head  of  all  and  of 
each.  There  are  270  students  in  the  college,  70  in  theology  and  24  in  law.  The  school  of 
military  science  and  tactics  has  180  uniformed  cadets. 

Purdue  University  is  the  great  land-grant  college  of  Indiana,  where  400  students  are 
carefully  taught  in  mechanics  and  engineering,  and  various  industrial,  agricultural  and  scien- 
tific branches.  It  was  founded  in  1874,  at  Lafayette,  and  stands  high  among  scientific 
schools.  Indiana  University  at  Bloomington  is  supported  entirely  from  the  public  funds, 
and  104  high  schools  are  commissioned  to  prepare  and  examine  students  for  admission  and 
free  tuition.  The  courses  are  elective,  in  15  departments,  with 
a  law-school  besides.  The  campus  contains  20  acres  of  high 
and  commanding  ground  near  Bloomington,  with  maple  and  beech 
groves,  amid  which  stand  Wylie,  Owen  and  Maxwell  Halls,  the  ob- 
servatory and  the  handsome  fire-proof  Library  building,  of  white 
limestone.  There  are  no  dormitories. 

When  Indiana  was  admitted  to  the  Union,  in  1816,  Congress 
set  apart  a  township  of  land  "for  the  use  of  a  seminary  of  learning." 
The  State  Seminary  received'  its  charter  in  1820,  began  work  in 
1824,  became  Indiana  College  in  1828,  and  expanded  to  a  university 
in  1838.  It  now  stands  among  the  foremost  schools  of  the  West,  with  thirty  instructors  and 
300  students  (278  of  whom  are  Indianians).  The  University  of  Notre  Dame,  the  chief 
Catholic  school  in  the  West,  was  founded  in  1842,  by  the  Very  Rev.  E.  Sorin,  a  mile  and 
a  half  north  of  South  Bend,  and  close  to  St.  Joseph's  and  St.  Mary's  Lakes  and  St.  Joseph 


INDIANAPOLIS  :    YOUNG  MEN'S 
CHRISTIAN    ASSOCIATION. 


River.    The  main  building,  with  its  noble  dome  crowned  by  a  statue  of  the  Vir 
surrounded  by  electric  lights,  contains  many  historical  frescoes  by  Gregori, 
monnier  Library  of  30,000  volumes,  and  dormitories  and  society  rooms. 
Music    Hall,  the  great  Science  Building,  Sorin  Hall,  the  Gymnasium, 
the     Infirmary    and    the     Gothic    church    (with    33    bells,     the 
famous  "Chimes  of  Notre  Dame")  are  all  modern  and  handsome 
buildings    with    pleasant    surroundings.     The    minims    (students 
under  13  years)  occupy  St.  Edward's  Hall,  and  are  taught  by  Sis- 
ters of  the  Holy  Cross.     They  form  a  company  of  cadets,  while 
the  older  students  compose  the  battalion  of  Hoyne  Light  Guards. 
The  university  has  classical,  scientific,  civil-engineering  and  com- 
mercial courses,  and  a  three-years'  law  course.     It  has  700  students, 
mostly  from  outside  of  Indiana,    and  including   a   number  from 
abroad.    A  mile  from  Notre  Dame,  by  a  beautiful  avenue  of  poplars 


gin  Mary, 
the    Le- 


LOGANSPORT  :    SOLDIERS' 
MONUMENT. 


240 


INDIANAPOLIS  :    UNION    RAILWAY   STATION. 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE   UNITED  STATES. 

and  maples,  is  the  extensive  St.  Mary's  Academy,  with  the  new 
Church  of  Our  Lady  of  Loretto. 

Wabash  College  was  founded  by  the  Presbyterian  Church,  at 
Crawfordsville,  in  1832,  and  has  13  instructors  and  400  stu- 
dents, a  library  of  28,500  volumes,  and  the  commodious  modern 
buildings  of  Centre  Hall  (chapel,  library 
and  lecture  rooms),  Peck  Scientific  Hall, 
and  the  Hovey  Museum.  South  Hall  was 
built  in  1 834.  Earlham  College  is  a  Friends' 
school  at  Richmond,  with  144  students. 
Among  other  Indiana  colleges  are  Frank- 
lin (Baptist),  Ridgeville  (Free  Baptist), 
Hanover  (Presbyterian),  Moore's  Hill  (Methodist),  St.  Meinrad's  (Catholic),  Hartsville  Uni- 
versity (U.  B.),  Union  Christian  (at  Merom)  and  Butler  University  (Christian),  near  In- 
dianapolis. 

Rose  Polytechnic  Institute,  at  Terre  Haute,  was  founded  by  Chauncey  Rose  in  1874 
(and  opened  in  1883)  for  the  higher  education  of  young  men  in  engineering,  and  has  a  four- 
years'  course,  free  to  Vigo-County  students.  There  are  16  professors  and  instructors  and 
141  students,  with  three  buildings,  on  a  pleasant  campus  of  ten  acres. 

Divinity  schools  are  attached  to  DePauw  University  (M.  E.),  Union  Christian  College, 
at  Merom  (Christian),  Concordia  College,  at  Fort  Wayne  (Lutheran)  and  St.  Meinrad's 
College  (Catholic).  There  are  law  schools  at  Notre  Dame  and  Greencastle.  Indianapolis 
has  two  regular  medical  colleges  and  eclectic,  physio-medical  and  dental  schools.  Lafayette 

has  a  college  of  pharmacy,  and  Fort  Wayne  has  a      t 

college  of  medicine.    In  these  professional  schools 
100  men  instruct  430  students. 

Indiana  Limestone. — At  Bedford  there  are 
some  19  quarries,  yielding  an  enormous  quantity 
of  exceedingly  valuable  building  stone,  popularly 
known  as  the  Bedford  limestone,  also  often  spoken 
of  as  Indiana  limestone.  It  is  an  oolitic  limestone, 
similar  to  the  Portland  oolitic  limestone,  of  which 
St.  Paul's  Cathedral  in  London  is  built,  and  which 
is  said  to  be  the  best  building  material  known.  It 
is  also  similar  to  the  Caen  stone  of  France.  It  is  BEDFORD  :  HOOSIER  STONE  co.-s  MILL. 

said  never  to  break  or  to  crack,  and  to  have  an  elasticity  which  makes  it  of  especial  value 
in  all  climates  where  there  are  changes  of  temperature.  It  contains  about  98$  pure  car- 
bonate of  lime.  There  are  two  colors  in  this  stone,  a  buff  and  a  blue.  A  United- States 
Government  test  shows  it  to  be  20$  stronger  than  the  English  Portland  oolitic.  It  is  there- 
fore no  wonder  that  this  stone  has  been  made  of  use  in  some  of  the  most  notable  structures, 
such  as  the  Auditorium,  in  Chicago ;  the  New- York  Times  building,  the  Emigrant  Indus- 

— ,     trial  Savings  Bank,  the  Mutual  Life  Insurance  Com- 


BEDFORD  :    HOOSIER   STONE  QUARRY. 


pany,  and  the  Vanderbilt  residence,  in  New-York 
City  ;  the  Girard  Life-Insurance  and  Annuity  Com- 
pany and  the  Singerly  Building,  in  Philadelphia  ; 
the  Indiana  State  Capitol ;  the  New-Orleans  Cotton 
Exchange;  the  post-offices  at  Louisville  and  De- 
troit ;  the  Soldiers'  Monument  at  Logansport ;  the 
bridges  at  Cairo  and  St.  Louis  ;  and  the  Algonquin 
Club,  at  Boston.  The  foremost  quarries  of  this 
Bedford  stone  are  those  operated  by  the  Hoosier 
Stone  Company,  which  owns  200  acres,  whence,  in 


THE  STATE   OF  INDIANA. 


241 


eight  years,  they  have  been  able  to  exhaust  only  about  i£  acres,  the  estimated  product  being 
about  2,000,000  cubic  feet  to  the  acre.  These  quarries  have  been  developed  chiefly  under  the 
guidance  of  Wm.  C.  Winstandley.  And  the  Bedford  stone  has  been  the  main  cause  of 
building  up  the  thriving  little  city  of  Bedford. 

The  Newspapers  of  Indiana  are  about  650  in  number.      The 
Indianapolis  News,  the  leading  paper  of  Indiana,  holds  a  place  that 
might  be  called  unique.      It  was  started  as  an  independent  journal 
upon  definite  lines,  and  during  its  whole  career  has  clung  tenaciously 
to  its  policy,  which,  tersely  stated,  is  :   "Tell  the  truth  without  fear 
or  favor,  and  be  honest  with  your  patrons."    Its  editorial  and  busi- 
„,,     ness  departments  have  been  conducted  on  these  principles,  and  the 
n^'i   In  -  -   i     result  is  an  admitted  circulation,  proportioned  to  population,  larger 
than  that  of  any  American  daily,  and  an  influence  that  is  phenom- 
enal in  its  reach  and  power.      It  has  followed  a  straight  course  with- 
out a  thought  whether  it  would  pay  or  not ;  it  never  has  been  a 
time-server  or  a  trimmer,  and  even  its  bitterest  opponents  concede 
that  The  News  believes  what  it  says.     Its  business  methods  have 
.    been  such  that  its  owners  have  nothing  to  regret  or  be  ashamed  of, 
|f-|i=^  oi^p—    ancj  -n  jts  undeviating  adherence  to  the  one-price  system  it  stands 
in  a  comparatively  small  class.     It  goes  without  saying  that  The 
News  has  had  the  enterprise  and  professional  skill  which  are  essen- 
tial in  placing  any  business  at  the  head,  particularly  in  establishing 


INDIANAPOLIS  : 
INDIANAPOLIS    NEWS    BUILDING. 


JEFFERSONVILLE  :     QUARTERMASTER'S    DEPARTMENT. 


a  first-class  journal  in  the  face  of  the  great 
competition  of  the  day.  Having  deserved 
the  public  confidence,  it  has  gained  it,  and 
keeps  it.  The  News  was  established  in 
1869  by  John  H.  Holliday,  who  has  con- 
trolled it  ever  since.  It  was  the  first  two- 
cent  paper  started  after  the  war  west  of 
the  seaboard,  excepting  at  Pittsburgh,  and  became  the  pioneer  of  the  Western  afternoon 
newspapers,  which  have  almost  revolutionized  American  journalism.  The  News  is  the 
largest  and  most  costly  daily  in  Indiana,  its  smallest  issue  being  a  quarto  of  56  columns.  It 
employs  an  array  of  talent  not  equalled  by  any  other  Indiana  paper,  and  has  all  the  modern 
facilities  for  the  making  of  a  great  newspaper. 

National  Institutions. — The  United- States  Arsenal,  on  a  hill  east  of  Indianapolis,  has 
several  substantial  buildings  on  a  pleasant  reservation  of  76  acres.  It  is  a  depository  of  war 
material,  and  dates  from  1863.  The  Jeffersonville  depot  of  the  Quartermaster's  Department 
is  the  general  supply-depot  of  the  United-States  Army,  and  sends  clothing  and  equipage  to 
all  the  military  posts.  The  buildings  form  a  quadrangle  800  feet  square,  enclosing  a  lawn 
of  1 8  acres,  and  overlooked  by  a  tall  central  tower.  They  were  erected  in  1871-4,  in  a  lo- 
cality central  for  the  Union,  near  large  manufactories  and  railroads,  and  the  seat  of  import- 
ant Government  departments  in  1861—5. 

The  Marion  branch  of  the  National  Sol- 
diers' Home  was  built  in  1889-90,  at  Marion, 
and  has  barracks  for  1,000  veterans. 

Indianapolis  has  a  magnificent  soldiers' 
monument,  265  feet  high,  with  several  colos- 
sal bronze  statues,  trophies  of  arms,  and  other 
adornments.  In  the  same  city  are  statues  of 
celebrated  Indianians  —  Vice-Presidents  Colfax 
and  Hendricks,  and  War-Governor  Morton  — 
KNIGHTSTOWN  :  SOLDIERS'  AND  SAILORS'  ORPHANS'  HOME,  and  other  interesting  memorials. 


242 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES. 


INDIANAPOLIS  ', 
INDIANA    NATIONAL    BANK. 


Railroads  came  slowly  to  Indiana,  which  had  but  45  miles  as  late  as  the  year  1845.  But 
now  the  State  is  crossed  in  every  direction  by  their  lines,  including  nearly  7,000  miles  of  track, 
assessed  at  $65,000,000.  At  Indianapolis,  Fort  Wayne  and  various  other  points,  the  rail- 
ways converge  like  wheel-spokes,  the  great  routes  from  the  Mississippi  Valley  to  the  Atlan- 
tic coast  intersecting  the  north  and  south  lines.  The  Monon  Route  (the  Louisville,  New- 
Albany  &  Chicago  Railroad)  from  Chicago  to  Kentucky  and  the  South, 
traverses  the  entire  length  of  the  State.  The  Wabash  &  Erie  Canal,  from 
Toledo  to  Evansville,  476  miles,  is  the  longest  in  the  Union,  part  of  it 
being  held  by  slack-water  navigation  on  the  Maumee  and  Wabash. 
The  section  between  Lafayette  and  Fort  Wayne  has  fallen  into  disuse. 
The  Whitewater  Canal  runs  from  Lawrenceburg  on  the  Ohio  to 
Hagerstown. 

Finance. — The  true  value  of  property  in  Indiana  is  not  far  from 
$1,800,000,000,  and  the  public  debts  of  all  kinds  fall  below  $20,000,000. 
The  Bank  of  the  State  of  Indiana  for  many  years  controlled  the  finan- 
cial policy  of  this  region,  and  its  Indianapolis  branch  (opened  in 
1857)  was  the  oldest  banking  corporation  in  the  capital  city.  After 
a  successful  career  this  institution,  in  1865,  became  merged  into  the 
Indiana  National  Bank,  with  the  same  men  as  officers  and  the  same 
lines  of  business,  and  the  added  advantage  of  a  national-bank  charter. 
The  resources  of  the  Indiana  National  Bank  now  reach  nearly  $4,000,000.  The  capital 
paid  in  is  $300,000,  and  there  are  $425,000  in  the  surplus  fund  and  undivided  profits. 
Since  Volney  T.  Malott's  accession  to  the  presidency,  in  1882,  the  business  has  quadrupled, 
and  the  stock  has  risen  to  a  high  figure,  while  the  bank  has  grown  to  be  recognized  not  only 
as  the  largest  National  bank  in  the  State,  but  also  as  one  of  the  strongest  and  most  conserva- 
tive, yet  progressive  and  energetic  institutions  of  Indiana. 

The  Manufactures  of  Indiana  have  increased  over  1,000  per  cent,  in  invested  capital 
and  yearly  products,  since  1860.  They  number  above  8,000,  with  70,060  operatives  and  a 
capital  of  $65,000,000.  Much  of  this  increase  is  due  to  the  discovery  of  natural  gas,  and 
its  use  as  fuel  for  factories,  at  Muncie,  Kokomo  and  other  fast-growing  cities  in  the  "gas 
belt,"  where  a  great  variety  of  manufactures  are  flourishing.  This  wonderful  product  of 
the  earth  is  piped  to  75  cities  and  towns,  and  results  in  a  saving  of  above  $5,000,000  a 
year,  besides  being  cleaner  and  more  easily  manageable  than  other  fuel.  It  is  also  in  gen- 
eral use  for  heating  and  lighting  dwellings,  and  for  other  domestic  purposes.  If  the  sup- 
ply of  natural  gas  is  not  exhausted,  it  will  be  of  immense  value  to  Indiana,  and  cause  the 
development  of  large  manufacturing  interests. 

An  idyll  of  industry  appears  in  the  story  of  the  Studebaker  Bros.  Manufacturing  Com- 
pany. The  brothers  composing  the  firm  were  originally  two ;  afterwards  two  more  were  added  : 
and  three  years  ago  the  number  was  re- 
duced by  the  death  of  the  younger  brother, 
leaving  as  the  leading  members  of  the 
company,  Clem  Studebaker,  president,  J. 
M.  Studebaker,  vice-president,  and  Peter  E. 
Studebaker,  treasurer.  The  business  was 
started  in  South  Bend,  in  1852,  on  a  total 
capital  of  $68,  together  with  a  thorough 
knowledge  of  blacksmithing,  which  the 
brothers  had  learned  at  their  father's  forge 
in  Ohio.  During  the  first  year  the  output 
was  two  wagons ;  now  1, 500  workmen  and 
numberless  ingenious  machines,  which  per- 
form the  work  faster  and  vastly  better  than  SOUTH  BEND  :  STUDEBAKER  BROS.  MANUFACTURING  co. 


THE  STATE   OF  INDIANA. 


243 


SOUTH  BEND  :    STUDEBAKER  BROS.    MANUFACTURING  CO. 


it  could  be  done  by  hand,  are  employed  in  the 
manufacture  of  all  grades  of  vehicles,  from  the 
two-wheel  road-cart  up  to  President  Harrison's 
state  landau.  The  wagon-works  and  lumber- 
yards at  South  Bend  cover  93  acres ;  the  car- 
riage-works, at  South  Bend,  cover  four  acres  ;  and 
the  repository  and  factory  for  fine  carriage-work 
in  Chicago  has  a  front  of  105  feet  on  Michigan 
Avenue,  and  a  height  of  eight-stories.  The  Chi- 
cago house  is  the  most  elegant  building  of  its 
kind  in  the  world;  and  all  the  other  factories  are 
substantially  and  handsomely  built  of  brick,  far 
exceeding  in  size  and  extent  any  other  vehicle  concern  on  the  globe.  Notwithstanding  this  fact, 
the  increased  demand  for  Studebaker  vehicles,  which  roll  in  nearly  every  county  of  the  United 
States,  while  thousands  have  also  been  sent  to  South  Africa,  Australia,  Mexico,  South  Amer- 
ica, and  other  foreign  countries,  has  made  necessary  additions  to  the  South-Bend  works  which 
will  approximately  double  the  present  productive  capacity.  The  company  was  incorporated 
in  1868,  with  a  capital  stock  of  $75,000.  The  capital  stock  was  increased  in  1875  t° 
$1,000,000,  which  is  at  this  time  supplemented  by  a  large  surplus. 

The  opening  up  of  thousands  upon  thousands  of  additional  acres  to  cultivation  has  called 
for  the  service  of  myriads  of  plows,  and  one  of  the  foremost  suppliers  of  these  has  been  the 

Oliver  Chilled  Plow  Works,  at  South  Bend,  where 
a  thousand  men  are  employed,  on  a  plant  covering 
42  acres.  The  business  was  founded  in  1855,  by 
James  Oliver,  an  Indiana  iron-master,  who  recog- 
nized the  great  need  of  plows  at  once  cheaper  and 
better  than  those  then  in  use,  and,  after  years  of  ex- 
perimenting, invented  the  chilled  plow,  now  so  fa- 
mous. The  outgrowth  of  Oliver's  little  foundry  is 
the  largest  and  best-planned  plow-factory  in  the 
world.  The  chilled  plow  saves  the  country  scores 
of  millions  of  dollars  yearly,  in  the  cost  of  plowing ; 
and  immense  savings  are  also  made  in  Europe  and  Africa,  Asia  and  Australia,  South  America 
and  Mexico,  to  all  of  which  the  Oliver  plows  are  exported.  Mr.  Oliver  was  born  in  Liddes- 
dale,  Scotland,  and  brought  up  in  Indiana ;  and  many  thousands  of  his  plows  are  in  use  in 
Scotland  to-day.  The  company  also  makes  a  large  line  of  steel  plows,  besides  a  variety  of 
riding  plows  ;  and  with  hundreds  of  styles  and  sizes  is  well  equipped  for  prairies  and  hill-sides, 
vineyards  and  cotton-fields,  lowlands,  clay  and  sandy  soils,  Texas  black  lands  and  South- 
American  pampas. 

The  Dodge  Manufacturing  Company,  at  Mishawaka  (on  the  L.  S.  &  M.  S.  and  G.  T.  R. 
roads)  has  a  ground  plant  of  80  acres, 
with  a  floorage  of  16  acres,  lumber 
yard  of  1 2  acres,  and  a  daily  capacity 
of  600  pulleys.  This  company  has  the 
remarkable  record  of  having  origi- 
nated two  of  the  most  noteworthy  ad- 
ditions to  the  mechanics  of  this  gen- 
eration, viz.:  the  "Independence" 
Wood  Split  Pulley  and  the  "Ameri- 
can System  of  Rope  Transmission," 
which  now  constitute  the  specialties 
of  their  manufacture.  The  manufac-  MISHAWAKA  :  DODGE  MANUFACTURING  COMPANY. 


SOUTH    BEND  :     OLIVER    CHILLED    PLOW   WORKS. 


244 


KING  'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE  UNITED  STA  TES. 


INDIANAPOLIS  \    KINGAN  &  CO.,   LIMITED. 


ture  of  the  "Independence"  pulley  commenced 
in  1884,  and  it  has  now  attained  a  world-wide 
celebrity,  and  in  this  country  it  has  become  the 
standard  of  excellence.  Its  peculiarities  are: 
I.  the  compression  fastening  to  the  shaft,  with- 
out set  screws  or  keys  ;  2.  the  system  of  inter- 
changeable bushings,  whereby  every  pulley  may 
be  adapted  to  any  shaft.  The  American  sys- 
tem of  Rope  Transmission  substitutes  a  single 
endless  rope  with  uniform  tension,  for  the  du- 
plicate ropes  and  uneven  tension  of  the  English  system.  By  this  system  power  may  be 
transmitted  in  any  quantity  without  regard  to  distance  or  direction  and  without  loss  from  slip. 
Both  the  pulley  and  the  rope  transmission  are  the  subjects  of  numerous  patents. 

The  development  of  the  pork-packing  industry  during  the  time  of  the  civil  war  induced 
the  foundation  of  many  large  establishments  in  this  line.  Among  these  was  Kingan&Co., 
Limited,  whose  business  began  in  1863,  and  has  since  grown  into  large  proportions.  Its  head- 
quarters are  in  Belfast,  Ireland,  where  an  Irish  provision  business  is  conducted  ;  and  there  are 
branch  houses  at  Kansas  City  (Kan.),  New  York  and  Richmond,  Va.  The  works  at  Indian- 
apolis cover  13^  acres  of  ground,  occupied  by  a  large  and  valuable  plant,  including  all  the  latest 
appliances  for  successfully  conducting  the  business.  A  thousand  men  are  employed  here.  Hogs 
are  bought  at  local  stockyards,  brought  in  by  farmers  from  Indiana  and  Illinois  chiefly.  These 
hogs  are  manufactured  into  hams,  sides,  shoulders, 
pickled  pork  and  lard,  and  concomitant  products, 
for  all  of  which  this  firm  enjoys  an  enviable  repu- 
tation, in  all  parts  of  the  world.  Kingan  &  Co. , 
with  their  extensive  ramifications,  are  said  in  vol- 
ume of  business  to  rank  second  only  to  Armour  & 
Co.,  of  Chicago,  in  this  important  industry. 

The  road-carts  used  throughout  the  world  are 
made  by  the  Parry  Manufacturing  Company  of 
Indianapolis.  This  establishment  dates  only  from 
1882  ;  but  has  rapidly  attained  such  a  development 
that  now  it  enjoys  the  distinction  of  being  the  greatest  producer  of  road-carts  in  the  world. 
Its  works  cover  13  acres  of  floor  space  in  the  heart  of  the  city,  and  employ  a  thousand  men, 
and  have  a  capacity  of  1,300  finished  road-carts  a  day.  The  yearly  product  is  200,000  light, 
strong  and  durable  road-carts.  The  welding  is  done  by  electricity,  and  the  forging  by  natural 
gas.  The  wood  used  is  second-growth  hickory.  These  airily  graceful  Parry  carts  carry  one  or 
two  riders  with  the  greatest  ease.  The  Parry  Company  also  has  a  large  department  devoted 
to  the  manufacture  of  road  and  spring  wagons,  for  which  there  is  a  continuous  demand  from 
all  over  the  western  country,  and  elsewhere. 

The  settlement  of  the  West  and  South  has  called  for  the  erection  and  equipment  of  great 

numbers  of  flour-mills;  and  back  in  1851,  Ellis 
Nordyke  &  Son  founded  a  company  to  supply  these 
mills  with  their  machinery.  This  business  is  now 
carried  on  by  the  Nordyke  &  Marmon  Company, 
whose  works  at  Indianapolis  cover  13  acres,  and 
employ  600  men.  Here  is  made  machinery  for  mil- 
ling flour  and  corn,  oatmeal  and  hominy,  and  for 
grain-elevators,  and  the  roller  process  in  flour-mills. 
This  house  was  one  of  the  first  to  build  flour-mill 
machinery  by  machinery,  and  put  up  mills'complete 
INDIANAPOLIS  i  NORDYKE  4  MARMON  COMPANY.  by  contract.  It  has  produced  a  great  number  of  im- 


INDIANAPOLIS  ;    PARRY  MANUFACTURING  COMPANY. 


THE  STATE   OF  INDIANA. 


245 


INDIANAPOLIS  '.    INDIANAPOLIS  CABINET  COMPANY. 


;ments  in  milling  outfits,  and  its  small  portable 
mills  are  extensively  used.  They  are  found  in  nearly 
all  of  the  States,  East,  West,  North  and  South,  to- 
gether with  the  Nordyke  &  Marmon  scalpers,  flour 
dressers,  crushers,  shellers,  degerminators,  dryers, 
purifiers,  and  all  other  machines  and  tools  used  in 
milling.  This  establishment  is  the  largest  and  most 
successful  in  the  country,  devoted  exclusively  to  the 
flouring-mill  industry. 

The  largest  exclusive  office-desk-making  estab- 
lishment in  the  United  States  is  that  of  the  Indian- 
apolis Cabinet  Company,  at  Indianapolis,  founded  in  1870,  and  incorporated  in  1880.  Their  saw 
and  veneer  mills  and  other  works  cover  five  acres,  and  employ  400  men,  making  60  desks  a 
day.  The  company  has  several  scores  of  agents,  in  the  chief  cities  between  Halifax  and  San 
Diego,  and  large  warehouses  in  London.  Fully  half  their  product  is  exported,  and  the  states- 
men and  merchants  of  India,  China  and  Japan,  of  Cape  Colony  and  Natal,  do  their  work  at 
Indianapolis  desks.  The  United- States  Government  buys  about  2, 500  of  these  desks  every 
year.  All  the  South -American  republics  have  supplied  them  to  their  legislators;  Honduras  and 
Panama  receive  large  consignments,  also ;  and  the  Mexican  Palace  is  equipped  with  over  a 
hundred  of  these  desks.  The  demand  from  London  necessitates  weekly  shipments  thereto. 
The  great  virtue  of  Indianapolis  desks  (especially  for  tropical  countries)  is  in  their  built-up 
construction,  with  several  pieces  of  wood  glued  together,  with  the  grain  of  one  crossing  the 
— ""= ; 1  grain  of  another  at  right  angles,  so  that  the 

r  unified  table-top  or  writing-bed  cannot  shrink 
m^                                   !     or  warp  or  season-crack. 
ijj&f-'  '  One  of  the  abounding  and  beneficent  uses 
tJI^BBs^            of  the  great  corn  crop  of  Indiana  and  adjacent 
JML-— ii^_l_Ll        S^S  "JttJu    States  is  found  in  the  manufacture  of  a  variety 

of  delicious    food-preparations,   like  hominy, 
grits,  clean  meal  and  corn  meal,  corn  flour  and 
TERRE  HAUTE  :  THE  HUDNUT  COMPANY.  pearl  meal.   Among  the  leading  establishments 

in  this  department  is  the  Hudnut  Company  (capital,  $  I,, 000,000),  with  large  plants  at  Terre 
Haute  and  Mount  Vernon  (Indiana)  and  Pekin  (Illinois),  occupying  ten  acres  and  employ- 
ing 275  men.  They  receive  daily  about  40  car-loads  of  corn,  and  every  day  turn  out  3,000 
barrels  of  white  corn  goods.  This  output  is  sent  to  all  parts  of  the  United  States  and  the 
Old  World,  and  supplies  millions  of  tables  with  nutritious  and  palatable  food.  The  company 
was  established  in  1852,  by  Theodore  Hudnut,  who  is  now  its  president.  With  its  several 
mills,  it  is  recognized  as  the  largest  and  most  celebrated  manufacturer  of  white  corn  products 
in  the  world.  This  company  is  the  largest  single  user  of  corn  for  any  purpose  in  the  whole 
country.  The  Hudnuts  in  1880  were  the  first  to  utilize  the  roller  process  for  corn  goods. 

The  extensive  works  of  one  of  the  branches  of  the  American  Wheel  Company  are 
situated  at  Terre  Haute,  and  employ  a  large  number  of  skilled  workmen.  Another  branch 
of  this  Company  is  at  Fort  Wayne.  The 
Woodburn  Sarven  Wheel  Works,  at  Indian- 
apolis, are  also  controlled  by  the  American 
Wheel  Co.  i 

The  making  of  plate  glass  presented  in- 
superable difficulties  to  American  manufac- 
turers, until  W.  C.  DePauw  entered  upon 
it,  about  20  years  ago,  embarking  in  this 
business  the  large  capital  and  valuable  ex- 
perience of  a  long  and  successful  career.  TERRE  HAUTE  :  AMERICAN  WHEEL  COMPANY'S  WORKS. 


246 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE   UNITED   STATES. 


NEW-ALBANY  !     NEW-ALBANY  WOOLEN  MILLS. 


The  works  thus  established  at  New  Albany  cover  30  acres  of  ground,  and  rank  among 
the  largest  industries  in  Indiana,  and  the  largest  glass-works  in  America.  The  plant  repre- 
sents an  expenditure  of  $2,000,000,  and  a  business  of  $2,000,000  a  year,  extending  from 
New  York  to  San  Francisco.  Its  yearly  capacity 
is  fully  2,000,000  feet  of  plate-glass,  150,000 
boxes  of  window-glass  and  30,000  gross  of  fruit 
jars.  Sheets  of  polished  plate-glass  150x220 
inches  in  area  are  made  here,  and  much  fine  and 
heavy  glass  for  mirrors.  There  are  1 32  pots  in  the 
New-Albany  works  and  32  in  the  Louisville 
factory,  whose  product  of  rough  plate-glass  is 
sent  to  New  Albany  to  be  ground  and  finished. 
All  manner  of  labor-saving  devices  are  in  use, 
steam-elevators,  special  water-works,  electric  lights,  and  surface  and  elevated  railroads,  and 
the  great  furnaces,  never  allowed  to  cool,  make  from  the  fine  sand  of  Indiana  glass  which  has 
no  superior  in  the  world.  The  property  is  now  owned  by  the  heirs  of  W.  C.  DePauw,  and 
leased  and  operated  by  the  W.  C.  DePauw  Co. 

The  New- Albany  Woolen  Mills  are  said  to  be  the  largest  works  of  the  kind  west  of  the 
Alleghany  Mountains.  They  were  founded  in  1861,  and  grew  by  degrees  from  small  begin- 
nings, until  now  they  have  a  capital  of  $400,000  and  a  large  surplus.  The  product  includes 
fine  cotton  warps,  for  the  jeans  mills  of  the  Southwest ;  flannels  and  blankets  ;  and  army 
kerseys,  adopted  by  the  United- States  Government  as  the  standard  grade.  The  mills  are  sub- 
stantial brick  structures,  equipped  with  machinery  of  the  latest  and  best  pattern.  Among  the 
directors  are  N.  T.  and  C.  W.  DePauw,  who  carry  forward  the  investment  made  here  by 
the  Hon.  W.  C.  DePauw,  the  eminent  business-man,  glass  manufacturer,  and  philan- 
thropist, and  benefactor  of  the  University  at  Greencastle.  The  products  of  the  New  Albany 
Woolen  Mills  are  highly  esteemed  by  the  dry-goods  trade  throughout  the  country. 

The  natural-gas  belt  of  Indiana  has  given  rise  to  several  bright  manufacturing  cities, 
prominent  among  which  is  Kokomo  ;  and  22  miles  distant,  at  the  very  heart  of  the  gas-belt, 
is  the  growing  city  of  Elwood.  These  cities  possess  the  largest  plate-glass  works  in  America — 
the  Diamond  Plate-Glass  Company.  The  two  plants  form  the  greatest  single  industry  in  the 
State,  and  have  arisen  with  wonderful  rapidity,  and  reached  immediate  success  ;  probably, 
owing  to  the  fact  that  the  natural  advantages  have  been  acquired  by  a  group  of  business  men 
of  national  eminence  in  the  manufacturing  world,  who  have  gone  into  these  enterprises  with 
abundant  evidence  of  faith.  The  two  plants  cost  $2,500,000,  and  the  buildings  cover  nearly 
25  acres,  and  give  employment  to  2,000  skilled  operatives.  By  reason  of  its  natural  gas  and 

other  natural  advantages,  and  its  fine 
transportation  facilities,  the  Diamond 
Plate-Glass  Company  has  found  an  im- 
mediate market  for  its  entire  out-put, 
which  goes  to  all  parts  of  the  Union. 

^•W*|B||yj|!|*jP;  |8[  The  quality  is  found  to  be  fully  equal 

^Sjg|;?  I   to  the  best  French  plate-glass,  and  the 

Kokomo  plate-glass  has  already 
become  famous  for  mirrors.  Both 
Kokomo  and  Elwood  have  already 
reached  the  development  of  much 
older  cities,  in  their  pretentious 
public  buildings,  and  schools, 
churches,  water -works,  paved 
streets,  electric  lights,  street-cars 

KOKOMO  AND    ELWOOD  :     DIAMOND    PLATE-GLASS   COMPANY.  an(^  Other  requisites. 


HISTORY. 

The    Indian     Territory 


14,224 

107,987 
8>7o8 

3 
31,400 

o 

o 

279 


was  a  part  of  the  Louisiana 
Purchase  from  France,  in 
1803 ;  and  at  that  time  the 
present  use  of  this  region 
was  suggested  by  President 
Jefferson  :  "To  give  estab- 
lishments in  it  to  the  In- 
dians of  the  eastern  side  of 

the  Mississippi,  in  exchange  for  their  present  country." 
President  Monroe,  in  1824,  deplored  the  evils  growing  out 
of  the  dwelling  of  the  Indians  in.  the  Gulf  States,  their 
rapid  degradation,  bloody  feuds,  and  the  frequent  conflicts 
between  the  State  and  National  jurisdictions.  He  recom- 
mended that  the  tribes  should  be  moved  beyond  the 
Mississippi.  In  1830,  during  Jackson's  administration,  Con- 
gress authorized  their  transfer,  at  the  cost  of  the  Govern- 
ment, to  the  unorganized  part  of  the  Louisiana  Purchase, 
including  the  Indian  Territory.  Here  they  were  established 
on  tracts  proportioned  to  the  size  of  each  tribe,  with  titles 
vested  in  them,  and  ample  protection.  The  pledges  of  the 
United  States  to  "  forever  secure  to  them  or  their  heirs  the 
country  so  exchanged  with  them"  have  been  repeatedly 
broken,  and  will  continue  to  be  disregarded.  Kansas  has 
been  wrested  from  them  ;  and  for  ten  years  the  rising  tides 
of  colonization  have  beaten  against  this  domain  of  the  Indian 
Territory,  and  only  the  presence  of  active  bodies  of  regular- 
army  troops  along  the  borders  has  prevented  its  permanent 
occupation  by  myriads  of  white  settlers. 

Before  the  late  civil  war,  the  civilized  tribes  were 
wealthy  and  prosperous,  with  large  farms  and  plantations, 
and  a  lucrative  trade  with  the  Southern  cities.  But  during 
the  war  thousands  of  the  Indians  enlisted  and  fought  in 
the  federal  and  Confederate  armies ;  and  at  its  close  the 
tribes  were  reduced  to  poverty.  Since  that  time  they  have  advanced  notably  in  prosperity 
and  civilization,  and  now  form  large  farming  communities,  with  a  promising  degree  of 
political,  educational  and  religious  progress.  There  are,  however,  many  crimes  of  violence, 


Settled  at Old  Agency. 

Settled  in 1827 

Founded  by    ...    Creek  Indians. 

Ceded  by  the  United  States 
to  the  Indians,     ....          1829 

Population  in    1890  (U.   S. 
Census),       ......     186,390 

Five  Civilized  Nations,    .     177,682 
Indians 52,065 


Colored 

White, 

Reservation  Indians,  . 

Banks, 

Area  (square  miles),  .  . 
U.  S.  Representatives,  . 
Militia  (disciplined),  .  . 

Post-offices, 

Railroads  (miles),   ....  880 

Newspapers, 18 

Latitude,  ....  3f&  to  37"  N. 
Longitude,  .  .  .  94°2OX  to  98°  W. 
Temperature,  .  .  .  12° —  to  99° 
Mean  Temperature  .  .  .  58° 

TEN  CHIEF  PLACES  AND  THEIR   POP- 
ULATIONS. 


Lehigh,        . 

McAlester, 
Krebs,  .  . 
Muscogee, 
Purcell,  . 
Vinita,  .  . 
Tahlequah, 
Ardmore,  . 
Atoka,  .  . 
Eufaula,  . 


3,000 
3,000 
3,ooo 
2,000 
2,000 

1,200 


248 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE  UNITED   STATES. 


HERD  OF  BISON. 

Practically,  how- 


largely  committed  by  white 

intruders,  and  the  Indian 

courts  have  not  been  endowed  with 

enough  authority  to  repress  them.     Statesmen 

are  striving  to  restore  United- States  control  here,  and 

erect  a  territorial  government,  to  abate  the  ignorance,  crime  and 

savagery  rampant,  and  to  do  away  with  the  anomaly  of  a  group 

of  alien  governments  in  the  heart  of  the  Republic.    Their  plans  contem 

plate  replacing  the  reservations  by  fee-simple  grants  in  severalty ;  but 

the  influence  of  the  chief  men  in  the  Five  Nations  is  strongly  opposed  to 

this  movement.     They  claim  that  holding  land  in  severalty  is  a  remnant 

of  barbaric  European  feudalism,   tending  to  monopoly,   and  that  now 

every  Indian  can  occupy  and  enjoy  some  part  of  the  tribal  domains. 

ever,  there  are  many  rich  men  in  the  tribes,  possessing  great  tracts  of  land,  by  virtue  of  their 

permitted  ownership  of  the  improvements  thereon.    Their  criminals,  until  1876,  the  Chero- 

kees  either  hanged  or  whipped.      In  the  other  civilized  tribes  criminals  are  now  either  shot 

to  death  or  whipped.     Among  the  Creeks  a  thief  thrice  convicted  is  shot  to  death. 

Descriptive. —  The  Indian  Territory  covers  over  20,000,000  acres  (a  larger  area  than 
Maryland  or  South  Carolina),  with  fertile  and  well-watered  rolling  prairies,  diversified  by 
abundant  timber  and  rich  river  valleys,  and  the  great  oak-forest  of  the  Cross  Timbers, 
forty  miles  wide,  and  running  from  Texas  northward  to  Kansas,  with  gigantic  trees  rising 
from  an  alluvial  soil  of  remarkable  fertility.  The  broad  Arkansas  River  and  its  tributaries, 
the  North  and  South  Canadian,  Cimarron,  Little  Arkansas,  Neosho,  and  Verdigris,  and 
the  Red  River  and  its  affluents  on  the  south,  water  the  Territory  in  almost  every  part.  The 
Arkansas  is  navigable  by  steamboats  in  high  water  from  Fort  Gibson  to  the  Mississippi ; 
and  steamers  ascend  the  Red  River  along  nearly  the  entire  southern  boundary. 

One  of  the  chief  natural  endowments  of  the  Territory  is  its  coal-measures,  covering 
13,600  square  miles,  and  producing  a  valuable  bituminous  coal,  great  quantities  of  which 
are  mined  every  year.  Iron  and  lead,  copper  and  gold,  marble  and  sandstone  are  found  in 
various  localities;  and  salt  appears  in  springs  and  marshes. 

The  Climate  is  pleasant  and  equable,  with  but  little  snow  or  cold  weather ;  and  the 
spring  opens  in  February,  leading  to  a  long  and  hot  summer.  The  latitude  is  the  same  as 
that  of  northern  Georgia,  and  well  adapted  for  corn,  cotton  and  fruits.  Fully  400,000 
acres  are  under  cultivation  in  the  domains  of  the  five  civilized  tribes,  producing  yearly  over 
4,500,000  bushels  of  corn,  wheat  and  oats,  400,000  bushels  of  vegetables,  60,000  bales  of 
cotton,  and  175,000  tons  of  hay,  amounting  to  nearly  $6,000,000  a  year.  They  own  800,000 
head  of  live-stock.  Among  other  products  are  many  thousands  of  woollen  blankets  and 

shawls,  willow  baskets,  8,000,000  feet  of  lumber, 

maple  sugar,  wild  rice,  fish,  hemlock  bark,  cord- 
wood  and  wool. 

The  Missouri,  Kansas  &  Texas  Railway  runs  for 
248  miles  through  the  Cherokee,  Creek,  Choctaw 
and  Chickasaw  Nations,  from  Chetopa  (Kan.)  to 
Denison  (Texas).  The  Missouri  Pacific  operates 
a  line  through  the  Cherokee  and  Creek  Nations 
from  Coffeyville  (Kan.)  to  Fort  Smith  (Ark.), 
170  miles,  crossing  the  Missouri,  Kansas  &  Texas 
at  Wagoner.  The  St.  -Louis  &  San-Francisco  Rail- 
way connects  southwestern  Missouri  with  Sapulpa, 
in  the  Creek  Nation.  The  Frisco  also  operates  a 
line  from  Fort  Smith  (Ark.)  through  the  Choc- 
PREPARING  FOR  THE  SUN-DANCE.  taw  Nation  to  Paris  (Texas).  The  Choctaw  Coal  & 


THE  INDIAN  TERRITORY. 


249 


Railway  Company  has  a  line  from  South  McAlester  on  the  Missouri,  Kansas  &  Texas  to 
near  Caston  on  the  Frisco.  The  Gulf,  Colorado  &  Santa-Fe  operates  106  miles  of  main 
line  through  the  Chickasaw  country,  connecting  Purcell  with  Gainesville  (Texas).  Several 
other  railroads  are  chartered  to  build  through  the  Indian  Territory. 

Government. —  The  International  Council  assembles  occasionally,  having  representa- 
tives from  the  five  civilized  tribes  and  also  delegates  from  the  less  advanced  Indians  of  the 
western  region.  The  last  successful  Council  was  held  at  Fort  Gibson,  in  1888,  there  being 
twenty  tribes  represented.  This  assembly  favored  unification  of  the  Indian  governments 
under  a  general  council,  for  mutual  protection  and  development,  administration  of  justice 
and  the  better  conduct  of  their  affairs.  Several  unavailing  attempts  have  been  made  to  con- 
vene the  tribal  delegates  once  more,  but  it  is  doubtful  if  another  Council  will  ever  be  held, 
until  the  final  one  which  will  open  the  way  to  a  higher  development  than  is  possible  under 
the  present  tribal  organizations.  The  United-States  Government  holds  the  right  of  eminent 

domain  over  the  lands  of  the  five  tribes,  the 
Indians  being  fee-simple  owners,  but  not 
sovereign,  though  enjoying  to  some  degree 
the  powers  of  self-government.  The  United- 
States  Indian  Agency  for  the  five  tribes  is 
located  at  Muscogee,  and  has  jurisdiction 
over  all  persons,  whether  Indian  or  white, 
residing  in  the  Indian  country.  Its  opera- 
tions are  considerably  handicapped  by  the 
United-States  Courts,  and  the  Indians  have 
TAHLEQUAH.  not  been  protected  in  their  treaty  rights  by 

the  Government  for  many  years.  Indeed,  the  intruding  Anglo-Saxon  has  secured  such  a 
strong  foothold  that  it  is  doubtful  if  the  Government  will  ever  remove  the  trespassers  from 
the  Indian  lands.  Forty-three  Indian  policemen  are  attached  to  the  Agency.  These  officers 
are  engaged  in  the  suppression  of  crime,  the  prevention  of  the  introduction  of  whisky, 
and  serving  orders  issued  by  the  Agent. 

Each  of  the  five  civilized  tribes  is  governed  by  a  Principal  Chief  and  a  Second  Chief, 
elected  for  from  two  to  four  years ;  an  annual  legislature  of  two  houses,  elected  for  from 
two  to  four  years ;  and  a  judiciary  system. 

Education. —  The  220  Indian  schools  are  mainly  supported  by  the  five  civilized  tribes, 
at  a  yearly  cost  of  over  $300,000,  and  include  high  and  common  and  private  schools  and 
seminaries.  The  teachers  are  mainly  Indians,  but  the  text-books  are  in  the  English  language. 
Some  of  the  well-to-do  Indian  families  send  their  children  to  outside  colleges,  where  they 
attain  high  rank.  The  Indian  boys  also  receive  manual  training  in  carpentering,  black- 
smithing,  sho^making,  farming,  and  stock-raising  :  and  the  girls  are  taught  to  sew,  knit, 
and  make  butter.  The  Christian  religion  has  made  great  advances  among  the  tribes,  and 
the  Baptists  have  162  churches  and  8,141  members;  the  Methodists,  52  churches  and  8,346 
members;  the  Catholics,  15  churches  and  3,800  communicants;  and  the  Presbyterians,  41 
churches  and  2,400  members ;  and  there  are  several 
smaller  sects  with  adherents.  In  all,  there  are  317 
churches,  537  clergymen,  9,206  Sunday-School 
pupils,  and  25,000  church-members. 

The  most  murderous  element  in  the  Territory  is 
Arkansas  moonshine  whisky,  brewed  in  the  Ozark 
Mountains,  and  called  "white  mule,"  because 
made  by  white  men,  and  endowed  with  the  destruc- 
tive powers  of  the  Western  mule.  It  is  illegal  to 
sell  alcoholic  liquor  in  the  Territory,  as  it  is  in 
Maine,  but  the  traffic  goes  on,  despite  the  strenuous  MOUND  AT  CATOOSA, 


252 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE   UNITED   STATES. 


denominational  schools.  The  Indian  University,  near  Muscogee,  was  founded  in  1880, 
under  Baptist  auspices,  and  fits  young  Indian  men  and  women  for  the  Christian  ministry, 
and  teaching.  It  has  a  handsome  and  commodious  building.  There  are  also  at  Muscogee, 
the  Harrell  Institute,  of  the  Methodist  Church  South,  and  the  Presbyterian  Mission  School 
for  girls ;  both  prosperous  schools,  and  reaching  the  adjacent  tribes,  as  well  as  the  Creeks. 
For  the  last  60  years  the  Creeks  have  sent  numbers  of  their  boys  into  the  States  to  school, 
at  the  expense  of  the  tribe. 

The  Choctaw  Nation  formerly  dwelt. in  southern  Alabama  and  Mississippi,  whence 
they  were  moved  about  the  year  1830.  The  reservation,  of  10,450  square  miles,  lies  between 
the  Canadian  and  Red  Rivers,  bordering  on  Arkansas  and  Texas.  It  is  a  pleasant  and  fruit- 
ful country,  with  the  Kimishi  Mountains  in  the  east,  and  the  Sans-Bois  Hills,  1950  feet 
high.  The  capital  is  Atoka.  The  school  property  is  valued  at  $200,000  ;  and  the  yearly 
expenditures  for  education  are  $83,000,  divided  between  four  boarding-schools  and  170 
neighborhood  schools.  There  are  also  several  denominational  schools.  A  newspaper  is 
published  at  Atoka.  The  farmers  raise  considerable  quantities  of  grain,  cotton  and  live- 
stock. The  coal-mines  at  McAlester  were  opened  in  1872  by  Jim  McAllister,  a  squaw- 
man,  and  are  run  by  the  Osage  Coal  and  Mining  Company,  which  pays  royalties  to  the 
owner  and  to  the  Choctaw  Nation.  The  capacity  of  the  shafts  is  1,800  tons  a  day,  and 
there  are  80  coke-ovens.  More  than  half  of  the  1,200  miners  are  Italians.  There  are 
large  mines  at  Caddo,  Savanna  and  Lehigh,  with  3,000  whites  at  the  latter  place  alone. 
The  product  of  coal  has  reached  600,000  tons  in  a  year,  yielding  $100,000  in  royalty  to 
the  Choctaws,  and  $900,  ooo  to  the  men  — -N.  — 

in  the  mines.  There  are  15,000  Indians 
and  colored  people,  and  42,000  whites, 
in  the  Choctaw  Nation. 

The  Seminole  Nation,  number- 
ing 2,539  persons,  was  exiled  from 
Florida,  in  1842,  and  occupies  a  poor  and 
thin-soiled  reservation  of  312  square 
miles,  between  the  North  and  South 
Forks  of  the  Canadian  River,  north  of 
the  Chickasaw  and  west  of  the  Creek  Nation.  The  capital  is  Wewoka,  the  government 
being  by  a  first  and  second  chief,  and  a  national  council  of  14  "band-chiefs,"  at  once  a  legis- 
lature and  a  supreme  court.  The  Seminole  finances  are  in  splendid  condition.  There 
are  but  few  whites  among  the  Seminoles,  who  are  the  most  peaceful  and  law-abiding  of  the 
Five  Nations.  They  have  five  free  schools  and  three  mission-schools,  and  one  of  the  finest 
school-buildings  in  the  Indian  Territory. 

The  reservation  Indians  in  the  extreme  northeast,  among  the  foothills  of  the  Boston 
Mountains,  include  154  Quapaws,  from  Arkansas;  1 60  Peorias  and  Kaskaskias,  and  137 
Ottawas,  from  Illinois ;  288  Wyandottes,  67  Miamis  and  79  Shawnees,  from  Ohio ;  84 
Modocs,  from  Oregon ;  and  255  Senecas  and  Cayugas,  of  the  old  New- York  tribes.  This 
domain  is  purely  agricultural,  mostly  allotted  in  severalty,  and  crossed  by  the  St. -Louis 

jj,, s,.-  &  San-Francisco  Railroad. 

The  future  destiny  of  the  Indian  Territory  is  filled  with  uncer- 
owing  to  its  singularly  mixed  population,  and  the  intense 
national  spirit  which  has  been  developed  in  the  civilized  tribes. 
If  in  the  course  of  time  it  shall  advance  to  the  honors  of  State- 
hood, the  progress  of  the  people  will  be  more  rapid,  and  a 
prosperous  commonwealth  may  arise,  with  Indian  sena- 
tors representing  the  ancient  aboriginal  clans  of  the  Gulf 
States  in  the  halls  of  the  American  Congress,  and  defend- 

ATOKA:  CHOCTAW  COUNCIL  HOUSE.  ing  the  rights  of  their  people. 


TULSA,  IN  THE  CREEK  NATION. 


HAWKEYE 
STATE 


Settled  at   .... 
Settled  in   .... 
Founded  by    .     .    Ne 
Admitted  as  a  State, 
Population  in  1860. 
In  if 


Burlington. 

•  •  .        I835 
Englanders. 
.     .          1846 

•  •     674,913 

1,194,020 
1,624,615 
1,614,600 
10,015 

•  1,362,965 

261,650 
.          848,136 
776,479 
1,911,896 
e,     29.3 
416,658 
211,598 
179,877 


HISTORY. 

Father  Marquette  and 
Joliet  visited  Iowa  in  1673, 
and  passed  on.  The  country 
belonged  to  the  huge  Prov- 
ince of  Louisiana,  claimed 
and  held  by  France,  and 
ceded  to  Spain  by  that  na- 
tion in  1763.  Given  back 
to  France  nearly  40  years 

later,  it  was  presently  ceded  by  that  power  to  the  United 

States,  together  with  all  the  western  Mississippi  Valley.    In 

1804  it  belonged  to  the  District  .of  Louisiana,  under  the 

jurisdiction  of  Indiana.     A  year  later  it  was  added  to  the 

new  Territory  of  Louisiana  ;  and  in  1812  it  belonged  to 

the  Territory  of  Missouri.  From  1834  to  1836  Iowa  per- 
tained to  Michigan,  and  from  1836  to  1838  to  Wisconsin. 

Then  the  Territory  of  Iowa  came  into  being,  including 

also  Minnesota  and  Dakota,  between  the  Mississippi  'and 

the   Missouri   and  White-Earth  Rivers.     These   political 

changes  were  unknown  to  the  inhabitants,  who  were  mainly 

wild  Indians  —  the  lowas  and  Pottawatomies  in  the  west, 

the  Sacs  and  Foxes  in  the  east,  and  the  Sioux  and  Winne- 

bagoes  in  the  north.    The  lowas  were  a  tribe  of  the  Dakota 

family,  calling  themselves  Bahucha,  and  receiving  the  name 

of  Iowa  from  their  enemies,  the  Algonquins.    They  formed 

eight  clans  :  the  Wolf,  Bear,  Eagle,  Buffalo,  Pigeon,  Beaver, 

Elk  and  Snake,  each  dressing  their  hair  distinctively.    The 

last  four  clans  are  extinct.     They  dwelt  in  northern  Iowa, 

and  owned  the  great  pipestone  quarry.  In  1803  they  num- 
bered 1,500,  and  defeated  the  Osages  and  Cherokees,  but 

were  mercilessly  beaten  by  the  Sioux.      The  chiefs  Wying- 

waha  and  Mahaska  (White  Cloud)  made  treaties  with  the 

United  States  ;  and,  in  1836,  the  tribe  was  moved  west  of 

the  Missouri.    Intemperance  and  disease  have  reduced  them 

to  about  200  persons.     The  first  white  pioneer  of  Iowa  was  Julien  Dubuque,  a  French - 

Canadian  trader,  who  dwelt  from  1788  to  1810  among  the  Indians  at  the  lead-mi  ties,  near 

the  city  now  bearing  his  name. 


STATISTICS. 


870, 

in  1880  .  .  ;  ; 

White,      . 
Colored,   .    .    . 
American-born, 
Foreign-born,  . 
Males..    .    . 
Females,  .    .     . 

In  1890  (U.  S.  Cen  ,, 
Population  to  the  square 
Voting  Population,  .  . 

Vote  for  Harrison  (i88£ 

Vote  for  Cleveland  (188 
Net  State  Debt,  ....  o 

Assessed  Valuation  of 

Property  (1890),  .  .  $478,000,000 
Area  (square  miles),  .  .  .  56,025 
U.  ^.Representatives  (1893),  n 

Militia  (Disciplined),    .    .    .       2,731 

Counties, 99 

Post-offices, I>795 

Railroads  (miles),     ....        8,366 
Vessels,       79 

Tonnage, 10,087 

Manufactures  (yearly),      $70,045,920 

Operatives, 28,372 

Yearly  Wages,  .  .  .  $9,725,962 
Farm  Land  (in  acres),  .  25,055,163 

Farm-Land  Values,  .    $567,430,227 

Farm  Products  (yearly)  $136,103,473 
Public  Schools,  Average 

Daily  Attendance,    .     .    .    304,856 

Newspapers, 878 

Latitude,     .    .     .  4O°36'  to  43°3o/  N. 
Longitude,       .     89°  5'  to  96°  31'  W. 

Temperature —32°  to  104° 

Mean  Temperature  (Des  Moines)49° 

TEN  CHIEF  CITIES  AND  THEIR  POPU- 
LATIONS (CENSUS  OF  1890). 

Des  Moines 50,093 

Sioux  City, 37,8oo 

Dubuque, 
Davenport,  . 
Burlington,  . 
Council  Bluff 
Cedar  Rapid* 
Keokuk,  .    . 
Ottumwa, 
Clinton,    .    . 


22,565 

21,474 
18,020 
14,101 
14,001 
13,619 


254 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE   UNITED   STATES. 


In  1830  the  Sioux  annihilated  a  large  party  of  the  Sacs  and  Foxes  (including  ten  chiefs) 
on  the  Mississippi  River,  near  Dubuque,  and  the  people  of  those  tribes  fled  in  panic  from 
their  ancient  homes.  Then  began  the  first  wave  of  immigration,  the  white  miners  crossing 
at  various  points,  and  occupying  the  deserted  villages  and  mines.  They  were  ejected  by 
the  United- States  troops  under  Lieut.  Jefferson  Davis,  by  order  of  Col.  Zachary  Taylor,  who 

went  into  garrison  until  the  formal  cession  of  the 
Territory  by  the  Sacs  and  Foxes.  This  was  made 
in  1832,  to  defray  the  cost  of  the  Black-Hawk 
War,  and  included  the  eastern  strip  of  Iowa,  300 
miles  along  the  Mississippi,  and  50  miles  wide, 
running  northward  from  Missouri.  In  1836-7 
other  cessions  were  made.  In  1842  Gov.  Cham- 
bers consummated  the  New  Purchase,  paying 
the  Sacs  and  Foxes  $1,000,000  for  15,000,000 
acres  of  rich  land.  About  350  members  of  the 
tribe  now  dwell  on  a  small  reservation  on  the 
DUBUQUE-  Tama  River,  engaged  in  farming. 

Allured  by  far-spread  reports  of  the  extraordinary  beauty  and  fertility  of  Iowa,  immi- 
grants crossed  the  great  river  by  thousands,  coming  from  New  England  and  New  York  by 
the  Erie  Canal  and  the  lakes,  and  from  Ohio  and  Illinois,  Kentucky  and  Missouri,  by  the 
way  of  the  rivers.  The  strong  set  of  this  tide  soon  gave  population  enough  for  Statehood, 
which  was  for  several  years  withheld,  beca'ise  the  lowans  refused  to  accept  the  border-line 
proposed  by  Congress,  which  cut  them  off  from  the  Missouri  River.  Dubuque,  the  earliest 
permanent  village,  was  founded  in  1833. 
The  first  settlements  fringed  the  Miss- 
issippi, and  crept  slowly  up  the  Des 
Moines,  followed  by  a  similar  advance 
along  the  Missouri,  long  afterward.  The 
Spirit-Lake  country  was  settled  by  Min- 
nesotans  in  1856-7,  but  they  were  speed- 
ily attacked  by  Inkpadootah's  Sioux  band,  and  40 
or  more  suffered  massacre.  Through  much  of 
1858-60  the  Spirit-Lake  and  Sioux-River  settlements  were  pro- 
tected from  hostile  Indians  by  the  Iowa  Frontier  Guards. 

The  government  and  diplomacy  of  Iowa  have  always  -been  BURLINGTON. 

conducted  with  wisdom  and  conservatism,  and  the  Indian  tribes  have  been  removed,  internal 
improvements  advanced,  immigration  and  capital  secured,  and  education  richly  endowed 
without  the  ravages  of  war  or  the  impairment  of  financial  credit.  The  State  has  no  debt. 
The  chief  modern  questions  in  Iowa  have  been  the  prohibition  of  the  manufacture,  im- 
portation and  sale  of  liquor,  and  the  control  by  the  State  Railroad  Commissioners  of  the  rail- 
roads. The  prohibition  liquor  laws  have  been  very  fully  sustained  by  the  Iowa  Supreme  Court, 
and  nearly  all  points  by  the  United-States  Supreme  Court.  The  law  is  strongly  entrenched 
in  the  judgment  of  the  people,  excepting  in  the  larger  cities,  where  a  greater  proportionate 

^         ^_ ^      foreign  population  helps  shape  public 

S  sentiment  adversely  to  the  law.  The 
reaction  against  prohibition,  in  1889, 
arose  from  a  belief  in  the  inefiicacy 
and  inexpediency  of  the  policy.  The 
legislature  has  enacted  a  law  giving 
the  railway  commissioners  power  to 
make  such  rates  as  they  may  see  proper, 
and  which,  when  promulgated  by  the 


THE  STATE   OF  IOWA. 

board,  shall  be  prima  facie  evidence  of  reasonable 
rates.  It  goes  farther,  and  empowers  them  to  compel 
joint  rating  and  joint  billing  of  freight  between  two 
or  more  lines  of  road.  This  legislation  has  given 
Iowa  lower  rates  than  any  of  the  surrounding  States. 
The  local  jobbers  and  manufacturers  have  profited 
largely  by  it,  and  are  enabled  to  meet  the  competi- 
tion of  the  jobbing  houses  of  the  large  cities  as  they 
have  never  been  able  to  do  before.  As  a  result,  Des 
Moines,  Sioux  City,  Ottumwa,  Cedar  Rapids  and  the  Mississippi-River 
cities,  Dubuque,  Davenport  and  Burlington,  have  become  extensive  jobbing  centres. 

The  Name  of  the  State,  according  to  Le  Claire,  the  famous  half-breed  interpreter, 
means,  "Here  is  the  place  to  dwell  in  peace."  This  definition  is  now  generally  accepted 
as  the  best.  Others  derive  it  from  Ah-hee-oo-ba,  "The  Drowsy  Ones."  Shea  says  that 
Ajawa  meant  "Across,"  and  was  applied  by  the  Algonquins  to  the  tribe  beyond  the  Miss- 
issippi River.  Another  account  says  that  the  word  signifies  "Gray  Snow,"  because  the 
Iowa  tribe  separated  from  its  parent  tribe,  the  Omahas,  during  a  winter  storm,  when  the 
white  snow  was  mingling  with  the  gray  sands  of  the  shore.  Iowa  is  often  called  THE 

HAWKEYE  STATE.  The  name  first  appeared  in  James 
G.  Edwards's  Fort- Madison  Patriot,  of  March  24,  1838  : 
"If  the  division  of  the  Territory  is  effected,  we  pro- 
i  "r^tTIK  \  Pose  *kat  the  lowans  take  the  cognomen  of  '  Hawkeye. ' 
Our  etymology  can  then  be  more  definitely  traced  than 
that  of  the  Wolverines,  Suckers,  Gophers,  etc.,  and  we 
rescue  from  oblivion  a  memento,  at  least,  of  the  name 
of  the  old  chief,  Black  Hawk. "  Mr.  Edwards  moved 
his  office  to  Burlington,  and  founded  the  Ha-wkeye  news- 
paper, now  one  of  the  most  influential  in  the  West. 

The  Arms  of  Iowa  show  a  sheaf  and  a  field  of 

standing  wheat,  with  a  sickle  and  other  farming  utensils  ;  on  the  left  side,  near  the  bottom, 
a  lead-furnace  and  a  pile  of  pig-lead ;  on  the  right  side,  the  citizen-soldier,  standing  before 
a  plough,  supporting  the  American  flag  and  liberty-cap  with  his  right  hand  and  a  gun  with 
his  left.  The  Mississippi  River  is  in  the  back -ground,  with  the  steamer  Iowa  under  way. 
An  eagle  appears  above,  holding  in  his  beak  a  scroll,  with  the  following  inscription  :  "  Our 
liberties  we  prize,  and  our  rights  we  will  maintain."  This  device  was  adopted  in  1847.  Tne 
Secretary  of  Iowa  wrote  to  Admiral  Preble  :  "This  State  has  no  State  flag  other  than  the 
Stars  and  Stripes,  a  large  interest  in  which  she  claims." 

The  Governors  of  Iowa  have  been:  Territorial — Robert  Lucas,  1838-41;  John 
Chambers,  1841-5;  James  Clark,  1845-6.  State  —  Ansel  Briggs,  1846-50;  Stephen  Hemp- 
stead,  1850-4;  James  W.  Grimes,  1854-8;  Ralph  P.  Lowe,  1858-60;  Samuel  J.  Kirk- 
wood,  1860-4  and  1876;  William  M.  Stone,  1864-8;  Samuel  Merrill,  1868-72;  C.  C. 
Carpenter,  1872-6;  Joshua  G.  Newbold  (acting),  1876-8;  John  H.  Gear,  1878-82:  Buren 
R.  Sherman,  1882-6;  William  Larrabee,  1886-90;  Horace  Boies,  1890-4. 

Descriptive.  —  Iowa  is  in  the  great 
prairie-belt,  and  between  the  Mississippi 
and  Missouri  Rivers,  whose  water-shed  in 
the  northwest,  the  Plateau  du  Coteau  des 
Prairies,  is  800  feet  high,  falling  away  to 
the  southeast,  with  short  and  rapid  streams, 
the  Chariton  (250  miles  long),  Nodaway 
(200),  Grand  (300),  Nishnabotna  (220), 
Little  Sioux  (300),  and  Big  Sioux,  flowing:  BLUFFS  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI. 


EAST  OKOBOJI    LAKE. 


KING'S   HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

to  the  Missouri ;  and  other  rivers,  the  Des  Moines 
(550),  Skunk  (275), ^Cedar  (400),  Iowa  (375),  Wap- 
sipinicon  (200),  Maquoketa  (175),  Turkey  (160), 
and  Upper  Iowa  (150),  running  southeast  to  the 
Mississippi.  These  watercourses  begin  in  broad  and 
shallow  valleys,  and  then  flow  through  bluff-bound 
bottom-lands,  in  and  around  which  are  the  chief 
woods  in  the  State.  The  Missouri  at  Council  Bluffs 
is  198  feet  higher  than  the  Des  Moines  at  Des 
Moines,  and  425  feet  higher  than  the  Mississippi  at  Davenport.  The  waters  of  Iowa  abound 
in  pike,  bass,  sturgeon  and  catfish. 

The  Missouri  bottoms  from  Missouri  to  Sioux  City  are  1 50  miles  long  and  from  five  to 
20  miles  wide,  and  of  unwearying  fertility.  The  valley  of  the  Upper  Iowa  is  narrow  and 
picturesque,  and  bordered  by  bluffs  300  feet  high.  The  scenery  along  the  Mississippi  is 
of  great  beauty,  with  bold  bluffs  and  headlands  all  the  way  from  Keokuk  to  Dubuque 
and  the  Minnesota  line.  The  deep  blue  of  the  mighty  river  contrasts  effectively  with  the 
limestone  cliffs  and  verdant  hills.  Above  Davenport  the  stream  attains 
in  high  water  a  width  of  two  miles,  with  countless  sandy  and  wooded 
islands  adorning  its  placid  surface.  Above  Dubuque  the  bluffs  attain 
noble  proportions,  and  show  stratifications  like  masonry,  so  that  they 
simulate  Cyclopean  walls  of  sheer  white  rock.  At  other 
points,  the  shores  are  roofed  with  green,  and  resemble 
the  broad  downs  of  England. 

The  chief  national  work  in  Iowa  is  the  canal  around 
the  Des-Moines  Rapids,  where  the  Mississippi  falls  twenty- 
four  feet  in  twelve  miles,  over  a  rocky  bed.    At  high 
water   steamboats   may  pass   up   or   down 
without  difficulty,  but  at  low  water  the  canal 
is  used.     It  is  nine  miles  long,  and  cost  in 
the  vicinity  of  $4,500,000. 

Navigation  is  possible  on  some  of  the 
Iowa  rivers,  but  the  interlacing  of  railroads 
in  every  direction  makes  it  of  little  value  on 
the  minor  streams.  In  the  northwest,  1,400  feet  above  the  sea,  are  scores  of  beautiful 
crystalline  lakes,  like  those  of  Minnesota,  with  gravelly  beaches,  and  varying  greatly  in  size. 
This  region  affords  good  hunting  and  fishing,  and  is  much  visited  in  summer.  The  favorite 
locality  is  Spirit  Lake,  14  miles  around,  with  heavy  forests  along  the  west,  and  several 
minor  lochs  on  the  east,  including  the  beautiful  East  and  West  Okoboji  lakes,  each  two 
leagues  long,  and  united  by  a  narrow  strait.  They  are  of  great  depth,  and  surrounded  by 
picturesque  hilly  and  wooded  shores,  along  which  nestle  summer  lodges  and  cottages  and 
large  hotels.  The  name  of  Spirit  Lake  is  a  translation  of  Minne-wakan,  the  ancient  Sioux 
title.  Walled  Lake,  also  in  northern  Iowa,  extends  over  2,800  acres  with  its  clear,  cold 

waters,  hemmed  in  by  a  singular  dike  of  stones, 
six  feet  high  and  from  five  to  15  feet  wide,  around 
which  grows  a  half-mile  belt  of  oaks.  The  lake 
is  higher  than  the  surrounding  lowlands.  Clear 
Lake  and  Storm  Lake  cover  several  square  miles, 
and  rest  in  the  open  prairie.  The  former  is  a 
favorite  locality  for  camp-meetings  and  Sunday- 
school  conventions,  and  summer-cottages.  A  sum- 
mer-resort recently  opened  is  Bluff  Park,  on  the  high 
bluffs  at  Montrose,  where  a  magnificent  view  of  the 


SIOUX    CITY  :      CORN    PALACES  OF    1889    AND    1890. 


MARSHALLTOWN  :    SOLDIERS'    HOME. 


THE  STATE   OF  IOWA, 


257 


At  this  point  the    ^--^ -r— =^--^---^-  -  --''_^-^-- 

nr?c          A  r»rncc    fli£»      * ~~"   '    ~'-~_"~-^~^    ~~~~    ._          ~~^~^^'-- 


MISSOURI-RIVER  VALLEY. 


Mississippi  can  be  had,  looking  north. 

river  widens  out  and  is  dotted  with  islands.     Across  the    l~ 
river  is  Nauvoo,  once  the  home  of  the  Mormons.     The 
Iowa  Chautauqua  has  also  met  at  Colfax,  near  the  famous 
mineral  springs,  and  within  view  of  the  golden  dome  of 
the  capitol. 

The  Iowa  prairies  are  not  flat,  but  undulating,  with 
graceful  curves  and  rounded  outlines,  and  an  exhilarating 
jocund  air  and  a  wealth  of  floral  beauty.  Many  of  them 
are  fringed  by  shore-like  woodlands,  with  promontories 
and  islets  of  dark  forest  thrown  into  the  delicate  green  of  the  plain.  Less  than  one  per 
cent,  of  this  great  State,  nearly  as  large  as  Ireland  and  Scotland  together,  is  unadapted  to 
agriculture.  There  are  neither  swamps,  deserts  nor  mountains. 

Most  of  Iowa  is  covered  with  a  heavy  dark  drift  loam,  over  a  foot  deep,  and  of  marvel- 
ous richness,  the  choicest  part  of  the  State  being  the  parallel  valleys  of  the  Des  Moines 
and  Iowa.  The  northern  lands  are  of  less  value.  The  bluffs  of  the  west  are  of  yellow 
siliceous  deposits,  immensely  deep  and  very  fertile,  with  unusually  picturesque  outlines. 
The  tireless  fertility  of  the  prairies  is  partly  due  to  the  old  Indian  custom  of  burning  them 
over  every  autumn.  In  the  course  of  centuries  the  soil  became  almost  a  bed  of  wood  ashes. 
The  great  frontier  rivers  are  bordered  by  bottoms  from  one  to  ten  miles 
wide,  hemmed  in  by  bluffs ;  and  in  the  north  oak-crowned  mounds  and 
hills  rise  over  the  rolling  grassy  plains.  Above  the  bluffs  the  undulating 
table-lands  extend  for  vast  distances,  natural  meadows  of  unrivalled  beauty, 
covered  with  coarse  but  nutritious  grasses,  and  adorned  with  roses,  jessa- 
mines, violets,  and  other  wild  flowers.  Here  and  there  occur  pleasant  groves 
and  hazel-thickets,  giving  an  agreeable  diversity  to  the  peaceful  scene. 
The  western  part  has  less  woodland  than  the  east,  but  much  progress  has 
been  made  in  tree-planting  all  over  the  State.  The  timber  product  is 
valued  at  $3,000,000  a  year,  and  has  in  the  past  included  vast  quantities 
of  black  walnut.  The  geological  history  of  Iowa  records  a  long-past  time 
when  it  was  part  of  a  lake  500  miles  across,  traversed  by  the  Missouri.  After  unnumbered 
ages  its  muddy  bed  was  upheaved,  and  now  forms,  the  prairies,  its  fine  siliceous  powder 
enriched  by  vegetable  remains. 

Farming. —  Small  grains  and  vegetables  abound  all  over  the  State.  Corn  flourishes 
in  the  south  and  along  the  valleys,  especially  of  the  Nishnabotna  and  Nodaway ;  wheat,  in 
the  Cedar-River  country ;  and  vegetables  on  Muscatine  Island.  The  blue-grass  region  of 
the  southwest  and  the  wild  prairies  export  vast  quantities  of  baled  hay,  and  support  some  of 
the  best  American  live-stock,  with  large  dairy  products,  horse-farms,  and  abundant  fruits. 
It  is  a  lovely  pastoral  country,  dotted  all  over  with  pleasant  villages  and  hamlets,  and 
abounding  in  crystalline  streams.  Johnson  and  Muscatine  counties  are  famous  for  their 
great  herds;  and  the  Mus- 
catine watermelons  have 
a  wide  reputation.  More  ^ — " 
than  half  the  inhabitants 
of  Iowa  are  farmers,  and 
the  results  of  their  labors 
exceed  $365,000,000 
yearly.  The  crop  of  corn 
has  reached  322,000,000 
bushels  in  a  year  ;  of 
wheat,  37,000,000 ;  of 
oats,  80,000,000;  of  rye,  INDEPENDENCE 


MORMON   MONUMENT 
AT    MT.    PISGAH. 


258  KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE   UNITED   STATES. 

2,000,000;  of  barley,  5,000,000;  of  potatoes,  20,000,000.  Over  $3,000,000  worth  of  fruit 
has  also  been  raised  in  a  year.  In  Iowa  corn  is  king,  and  is  glorified  in  the  great  Corn  Palace 
at  Sioux  City,  an  immense  castellated  structure  built  yearly,  and  covered  outside  and  decor- 
ated inside  with  corn.  Iowa  produces  more  corn  than  any  other  State,  having  passed  Illinois 
and  Missouri  by  many  million  bushels.  The  canneries  of  Iowa  put  up  yearly  more  than 
7,000,000  cans  of  corn  and  1,500,000  of  tomatoes,  besides  other  food-products.  The  produc- 
tion of  hay,  for  a  year,  has  exceeded  7,000,000  tons  (two  thirds  timothy,  and  the  rest  prairie- 
grass),  with  200,000  bushels  of  seed,  the  entire  product  standing  at  $33,500,000.  The  Blue- 
Grass  Palace  at  Creston  annually  typifies  this  industry.  These  vast  crops  are  produced  in  spite 
of  the  occasional  visits  of  myriads  of  locusts  and  other  winged  or  crawling  destroyers  (now 
less  numerous  than  formerly),  and  of  the  multiplication  of  thievish  English  sparrows.  The 
damage  wrought  to  the  crops  of  Iowa  by  chinch-bugs  has  reached  $20,000,000  in  a  single 
year  (1887).  Iowa  is  the  foremost  State  in  producing  swine,  with  4,200,000  head,  valued 
at  $28,000,000,  and  including  many  Chester-Whites,  Poland-Chinas,  and  Berkshires.  It  is 
the  second  State  for  milch  cows  (1,200,000),  and  other  cattle  (2,100,000),  with  thousands 
of  short-horns,  Herefords,  Polled- Anguses  and  Jerseys,  the  whole  valued  at  $80,000,000. 
In  horses  it  stands  third,  with  over  1,000,000  head,  worth  $74,000,000,  and  including  several 
thousand  pedigreed  draft-animals,  Percherons  and  Clydesdales.  The  trotting  stock  of  north- 
eastern Iowa  has  a  wide  fame.  Sheep-raising  has  fallen  off  very  much,  partly  on  account  of 
the  ravages  of  dogs.  There  were  1,500,000  sheep 
in  1867,  but  20  years  later  these  had  been  reduced 
to  270,000.  The  amazing  richness  of  the  deep 
alluvial  prairies  of  the  Missouri  Valley  in  Iowa 
is  especially  manifested  in  the  successful  growing 
of  corn  and  live-stock.  Broad  areas  of  Iowa,  Wis- 
consin, Wyoming,  Utah,  Minnesota,  Nebraska,  and 
the  Dakotas  find  at  Sioux  City  their  great  packing 
centre,  where  their  cattle  and  hogs  are  slaughtered 
and  dressed  for  consumption.  The  investment  in 
this  packing  plant  exceeds  $3,000,000,  and  the 
total  value  of  its  yearly  product  is  $30,000,000.  The  immediate  cause  and  direct  strength 
of  these  packing  houses  is  the  Union  Stock- Yards,  covering  250  acres,  with  every  possible 
accommodation  for  receiving  and  feeding  live-stock.  Over  a  million  head  reach  these  yards 
yearly,  and  they  are  mainly  of  high  grade,  yielding  dressed  products  of  great  excellence. 
Already  through  the  intervention  of  this  establishment  Sioux  City  has  won  the  rank  of  the 
fourth  pork-packing  centre  of  the  world,  and  its  investments  in  this  industry  are  increased 
yearly.  The  Union  Stock-Yards  Company  of  Sioux  City  has  a  capital  of  $2,500,000,  and  it 
has  been  regarded  as  a  successful  enterprise  from  the  start. 

Iowa  is  the  second  State  in  the  production  of  butter  (52,000,000  pounds),  and  fourth  in 
cheese  (1,500,000  pounds)  ;  their  aggregate  (with  milk)  reaching  $15,000,000.  The  poul- 
try and  eggs  mount  up  to  $5,000,000  yearly,  and  are  sent  all  over  the  Northwest. 

The  Climate  is  very  healthful.  The 
winter  seasons  are  severe  but  equable, 
with  almost  continuous  north  and  north- 
west winds  sweeping  across  the  prairies. 
In  summer  the  constant  west  and  south 
winds  impart  a  fresh  life  to  the  air, 
so  that,  though  the  heat  is  greater  than 
in  New  England,  its  effects  are  less  op- 
pressive. The  autumns  are  clear,  warm 
and  dry ;  and  the  perfume  of  the  prairie 
STOCK-YARDS.  fires  then  overhangs  some  of  the  rural 


COUNCIL    BLUFFS  '.    CHAUTAUQUA    UNIVERSITY. 


c-,i*Toi 


THE  STATE   OF  IOWA. 


CEDAR    RAPIDS 


MASONIC    LIBRARY. 


259 

ties.     The  singular  purity  and  dryness  of  the  air  makes  Iowa  a  sanitarium  for  people 
suffering  from  lung-diseases. 

Minerals. —  There  are  20,000  square  miles  of  bituminous  coal  deposits,  which  are  worked 
at  Des  Moines,  Centreville,  Ottumwa,  What  Cheer,  Oskaloosa,  Moingona, 
Fort  Dodge  and  elsewhere.  It  is  a  fat  and  close-burning  coal,  with  much 
water.  The  400  mines  employ  12,500  men,  producing  yearly  from  3,500,000 
to  4,000,000  tons  of  coal.  The  coal-measures  extend  across  all  the 
southern  counties  up  to  the  middle  of  the  State,  but  the  most  valu- 
able mining  region  is  the  Des-Moines  Valley,  from  Keokuk  to 
Fort  Dodge.  The  veins  are  from  three  to  eight  feet  thick,  and 
within  loo  feet  of  the  surface.  The  Coal  Palace  at  Ottumwa 
typifies  this  industry.  Northern  Iowa  contains  30,000  acres  of 
peat-bogs,  in  beds  from  four  to  ten  feet  deep,  and  of  excellent 
quality.  In  the  northeast  great  quantities  of  lead  and  zinc  are 
found,  in  pockets  in  the  limestone.  At  one  time  $1,000,000 
worth  of  lead  was  shipped  yearly  from  Dubuque,  but  this  industry  is  now  nearly  quiescent. 
Iron  has  been  found  in  small  deposits.  Iowa  also  produces  coral  limestone,  dolomite,  sand- 
stone, and  other  valuable  building  stones,  in  great  quantities.  Iowa  marble  was  chosen  for 
the  entrance-hall  to  the  Boston  Public  Library.  Large  quantities  of  lime  are  made 
at  Fort  Dodge,  Springvale  and  Mitchell.  The  gray  gypsum  of  Fort  Dodge  covers  18  square 

miles,  with  a  thickness  of  25  feet.  The  potters'  clay 
and  fire-clay  of  Iowa  give  material  for  scores  of  large 
potteries  and  brick-yards.  The  State  has  128  quar- 
ries, employing  2,000  men. 

Government.  —  The  Governor  and  executive 
officers  are  elected  by  the  people  for  two  years.  The 
General  Assembly  meets  biennially,  and  includes  50 
senators  and  100  representatives.  The  Supreme 
Court  has  five  justices,  elected  by  the  people  for  six 
years.  The  State  Capitol,  dedicated  in  1884,  cost 
nearly  $3,000,000.  It  has  a  foundation  of  Iowa  boulders,  upon  which  rises  a  superstruc- 
ture of  yellow  and  gray  Missouri  stone,  covered  by  a  dome  295  feet  high,  over  a  grand 
rotunda.  It  is  enriched  by  colored  marbles,  frescoes  and  carved  mahogany. 

The  State  penitentiaries  are  at  Fort  Madison  (330  convicts)  and  Anamosa  (260).     The 
Iowa  Industrial  School,  with  109  girls  at  Mitchellville  and  367  boys  at  Eldora,  removes 
children  from  vicious  surroundings,  and  places  them  under  proper  instruction  and  discipline. 
Iowa  has  hospitals  for  the  insane,  on  large  farms,  at  Independence  (700  inmates),  Mount 
Pleasant  (760),  and  Clarinda ;  and  her  insane  convicts  are  incarcerated  at  Anamosa.     The 
for  Feeble-Minded  Children  at  Glenwood  has  over  400  in- 
College  for  the  Blind  at  Vinton  includes  primary, 
and  high-school  courses,  and  has  1 80  students. 
The  Industrial  Home  for  the  Adult  Blind  is  an 
efficient  charity  at  Knoxville.   The  Institution  for 
the  Deaf  and  Dumb  at  Council  Bluffs  has  400 
patients,  and  is  carefully  administrated. 

The  Soldiers'  Home  at  Marshalltown,  opened  in 
1887,  has  274  inmates,  and  the  Soldiers'  Orphans'  Home 
at  Davenport  shelters  300  children. 

Education  in  its  common  schools  costs  Iowa  nearly 
$6,000,000   yearly,    most    of  which  comes  from  local 
taxes.     The  permanent  fund  is  nearly  $4,000,000.   The 
AMES:  IOWA  AGRICULTURAL  COLLEGE.         school  property  is  valued  at  over  $12,000,000.      There 


GRINNELL  I    IOWA    COLLEGE. 


260  K1N&S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

are  25,000  teachers,  four  fifths  of  them  women.  Educational  matters  are  the  especial  pride 
of  Iowa  citizens,  and  the  utmost  care  is  given  to  the  preservation  and  up-building  of  the 
public  schools.  Standing  as  she  does  in  advance  of  her  sister  States,  with  respect  to  the  least 
degree  of  illiteracy  among  her  citizens,  it  is  not  strange  that 
the  fertile  prairies  and  beautiful  towns  and  cities  of  Iowa 
are  abundantly  supplied  with  well-kept  school-houses,  nor- 
mal schools  and  colleges,  and  well-trained  and  thorough 
instructors  afford  ample  opportunities  for  higher  instruction. 
"A  school-house  on  every  hilltop"  is  an  adage  which  all 
Iowa  proudly  recites  as  representing  the  condition  of  the 
State's  public-school  system. 

The  State  Normal  School  at  Cedar  Falls  has  540  stu- 
dents ;  and  there  are  private  normal  schools  at  Davenport, 

Des  Moines  and  Dexter,  and  other  places.  The  University  of  Iowa  was  nominally  founded 
in  1847,  and  opened  in  1855,  moving  two  years  later  into  the  old  State  Capitol.  After  a 
suspension,  the  University  recommenced  in  1860,  with  172  students,  and  now  has  a  yearly 
income  of  $44,000  (outside  of  tuitions).  Orphans  of  Iowa  soldiers  and  two  students  from 
each  county  are  taught  free.  The  main  building  is  the  handsome  old  State  Capitol,  of  cream- 
colored  limestone,  with  a  dome  overlooking  many  leagues  of  rolling  prairie  and  the  Iowa 
valley.  The  campus  occupies  ten  acres  of  oak -groves  and  openings,  on  a  high  ridge.  The 
University  has  nine  departments  :  The  college,  classical,  scientific  and  engineerimg  courses  ; 
the  law  school,  founded  in  1868;  the  medical  school,  1870;  and  homeopathic,  dental  and 
pharmaceutical  schools.  It  is  co-educational,  and  has  2, 500  graduates.  The  Iowa  Agri- 
cultural College,  near  Ames,  was  founded  in  1869,  with  the  Congressional  land-grant,  and 
has  27  instructors  and  300  students  (including  80  girls).  It  owns  a  domain  of  900  acres,  and 
costly  and  well-equipped  buildings,  but  grievous  internal  dissensions  long  retarded  its  de- 
velopment. Iowa  College  was  opened  in  1848,  on  the  New-England  plan,  its  founders  being 
mainly  ministers  from  the  East.  It  moved  from-  Davenport  to  Grinnell  in  1860,  and  then 
admitted  women  to  its  varied  courses.  The  central  position,  healthy  location,  and  strong 
religious  influences  of  Iowa  College  have  won  popular  favor.  There  are  540  students  en- 
rolled, more  than  half  of  whom  are  in  the  academy  and  the  conservatory  of  music.  Tabor 
College  was  founded  in  1857  by  the  Congregationalists.  Lenox  College  is  a  Presbyterian 
institution  at  Hopkinton,  and  so  is  Parsons  College  at  Fairfield,  and  Coe  College,  a  pros- 
perous institute,  at  Cedar  Rapids.  The  Luther  College  at  Decorah  is  the  largest  Norwegian 
school  in  the  Union.  Griswold  College  was  founded  by  Bishop  Perry,  at  Davenport,  over- 
looking the  Mississippi. 

The  University  of  Des  Moines  (1866),  the   Central   University  of    Iowa  (founded 

at  Pella  A.  in  1853),  and  Burlington  University  (1853),  are  small  Baptist  institutions.  The 
Methodists  control  Upper  Iowa  University,  founded  at  Fayette 
in  1857  ;  Iowa  Wesleyan  University,  founded  at  Mount  Pleas- 
ant in  1852  ;  Simpson  College,  founded  at  Indianola  in  1861  ; 
and  Cornell  College,  founded  at  Mount  Vernon  in  1857.  The 
Christians  own  Drake  University,  at  Des  Moines.  The  Friends 
conduct  Whittier  College,  founded  at  Salem  in  1867,  and  Penn 
College,  at  Oskaloosa. 

The  Manufactures  of  Iowa  show  yearly  products  valued 
at  $70,000,000.  Along  the  Mississippi  extend  the  great 
saw-mills,  of  which  Iowa  has  300,  with  a  yearly  product  ex- 
ceeding $6,000,000.  Clinton  possesses  one  of  the  largest  saw-mills  in  the  world,  capable 
of  sawing  60,000  feet  of  lumber  an  hour.  There  are  flour-mills,  with  a  yearly  product  of 
$20.000,000;  meat-packing  establishments,  yielding  $11,000,000  yearly;  and  manu- 
factories of  agricultural  implements,  wagons,  furniture,  woolen  goods,  and  boots  and  shoes. 


THE  STATE   OF  IOWA. 


261 


south  lines, 
Burlington, 
Almost  the 


sioux  CITY:  FIRST  CONGREGATIONAL  CHURCH. 


The  Railroads  of  Iowa  make  her  map  appear  like  an  intricate  lace-work.  The  five 
great  lines  of  the  Chicago,  Burlington  &  Quincy  ;  the  Chicago,  Rock-Island  &  Pacific;  the 
Chicago  &  Northwestern  ;  the  Illinois  Central  (Iowa  Division)  ;  and  the  Chicago,  Milwaukee 
&  St. -Paul  .4-  cross  it  from  east  to  west,  and  are  intersected  by  several  north  and 
the  Central  Iowa,  Minnesota  &  St. -Louis,  Sioux-City  &  Pacific, 
Cedar-Rapids  &  Northern,  and  Chicago,  St. -Paul  &  Kansas-City, 
whole  State  was  at  one  time  covered  by  railway  land-grants. 

Chief  Cities. —  Des  Moines,  the  capital  of  Iowa,  occupies 
the  site  of  the  old  Fort  Des  Moines,  a  United- States  garrison 
from  1832  to  1837  (and  then  the  remotest  outpost  on  the  north- 
west frontier),  in  a  lovely  valley  of  the  corn  and  blue-grass  belt, 
guarded  by  sloping  hills  and  rich  in  coal-mines.    Among 
its  products  are  wire-fencing,  carriages,  pork,  and  cotton 
and  woolen  goods.     It  is  one  of  the  leading  railroad  cen- 
tres of  the  country,  and  has  a  large  jobbing-trade.     Fort 
Dodge  was  founded  in  1850,  by  veteran  troops  of  the 
Florida  wars,  to  check  the  hostile  Sacs  and  Foxes,  and  garrisoned  until  1853. 

Keokuk,  "the  Gate  City,"  has  a  pleasant  site  on  a  high  bluff,  in  a  long  curve  of  the 
Mississippi,  at  the  foot  of  the  Lower  Rapids.  In  1840,  there  were  a  dozen  huts  here, 
surrounded  by  a  deep  forest,  where  seven  railways  now  converge,  in  a 
city  of  iron-foundries  and  meat-packing  houses.  Fort  Madison  was 
built  in  1808,  and  several  times  attacked  by  the  Indians.  It  is  now  a 
busy  shipping-port. 

Burlington,  a  pleasant  city  in  "the  garden  of  Iowa,"  dates  from 
1833,  and  was  named  for  a  Vermont  town.  It  has 
a  large  volume  and  great  variety  of  manufactures. 
There  are  ten  lines  of  railway  converging  here. 
Davenport  is  a  thriving  city  on  the  bluffs  opposite 
Rock  Island,  with  a  costly  bridge  across  the  Missis- 
sippi. It  is  the  centre  of  an  important  onion-raising 
district,  and  has  a  large  jobbing  trade. 

Dubuque  is  an  active  city  on  the  Mississippi, 
with  the  terminals  of  five  railroads,  a  business  of 
$40,000,000  yearly,  large  grain  and  lumber  trades, 
and  works  where  steel  steamboats  are  made.  It 
occupies  a  plateau  nearly  surrounded  by  high  bluffs. 
Muscatine  crowns  the  bluffs  in  a  great  westerly  bend  COUNCIL  BLUFFS  :  COURT-HOUSE. 
of  the  Mississippi,  and  rejoices  in  large  lumber  and  meat-packing  industries. 

Turn-      i      ing   from  the    Mississippi  to  the    Missouri,  another   tier  of  cities   comes 
into    view.  Council  Bluffs  lies  not  far  from  the  old  meeting-point  of  the  Indian  tribes  ; 

and  here  the  Mormons  tarried  from  1846  to  1849,  while  on  their 
way  to  Utah.  For  many  years  it  was  the  last  village  in  civilized 
America,  and  here  California  emigrants  and  trappers  procured 
their  outfits  before  entering  the  Indian  country.  It  lies  across 
the  Missouri  from  Omaha  (Neb).  Six  railways  running  west 
from  Chicago  here  meet  the  Union  Pacific  line,  and  others 
diverge  to  the  north  and  south.  The  city  has  fine  public  build- 
ings, newspapers,  stock-yards  and  elevators,  and  a  wholesale 
trade  of  $33,000,000  a  year,  covering  a  wide  area  of  the  Mis- 
souri Valley. 

Sioux  City,  a  flourishing  manufacturing  and  railroad  centre, 
DAVENPORT:  SCOTT-CO.  COURT-HOUSE.  and  withal  a  lovely  city  of  homes,  was  laid  out  in  1854  at  the 


260 


HANDBOOK  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES. 


LUTHER    COLLEGE. 


are  25,000  teachers,  four  fifths  of  them  women.  Educational  matters  are  the  especial  pride 
of  Iowa  citizens,  and  the  utmost  care  is  given  to  the  preservation  and  up-building  of  the 
public  schools.  Standing  as  she  does  in  advance  of  her  sister  States,  with  respect  to  the  least 
degree  of  illiteracy  among  her  citizens,  it  is  not  strange  that 
the  fertile  prairies  and  beautiful  towns  and  cities  of  Iowa 
are  abundantly  supplied  with  well-kept  school-houses,  nor- 
mal schools  and  colleges,  and  well-trained  and  thorough 
instructors  afford  ample  opportunities  for  higher  instruction. 
"A  school-house  on  every  hilltop"  is  an  adage  which  all 
Iowa  proudly  recites  as  representing  the  condition  of  the 
State's  public-school  system. 

The  State  Normal  School  at  Cedar  Falls  has  540  stu- 
dents ;  and  there  are  private  normal  schools  at  Davenport, 
Des  Moines  and  Dexter,  and  other  places.  The  University  of  Iowa  was  nominally  founded 
in  1847,  and  opened  in  1855,  moving  two  years  later  into  the  old  State  Capitol.  After  a 
suspension,  the  University  recommenced  in  1860,  with  172  students,  and  now  has  a  yearly 
income  of  $44,000  (outside  of  tuitions).  Orphans  of  Iowa  soldiers  and  two  students  from 
each  county  are  taught  free.  The  main  building  is  the  handsome  old  State  Capitol,  of  cream- 
colored  limestone,  with  a  dome  overlooking  many  leagues  of  rolling  prairie  and  the  Iowa 
valley.  The  campus  occupies  ten  acres  of  oak -groves  and  openings,  on  a  high  ridge.  The 
University  has  nine  departments  :  The  college,  classical,  scientific  and  engineerimg  courses ; 
the  law  school,  founded  in  1868;  the  medical  school,  1870;  and  homeopathic,  dental  and 
pharmaceutical  schools.  It  is  co-educational,  and  has  2, 500  graduates.  The  Iowa  Agri- 
cultural College,  near  Ames,  was  founded  in  1869,  with  the  Congressional  land-grant,  and 
has  27  instructors  and  300  students  (including  80  girls).  It  owns  a  domain  of  900  acres,  and 
costly  and  well-equipped  buildings,  but  grievous  internal  dissensions  long  retarded  its  de- 
velopment. Iowa  College  was  opened  in  1848,  on  the  New-England  plan,  its  founders  being 
mainly  ministers  from  the  East.  It  moved  from-  Davenport  to  Grinnell  in  1860,  and  then 
admitted  women  to  its  varied  courses.  The  central  position,  healthy  location,  and  strong 
religious  influences  of  Iowa  College  have  won  popular  favor.  There  are  540  students  en- 
rolled, more  than  half  of  whom  are  in  the  academy  and  the  conservatory  of  music.  Tabor 
College  was  founded  in  1857  by  the  Congregationalists.  Lenox  College  is  a  Presbyterian 
institution  at  Hopkinton,  and  so  is  Parsons  College  at  Fail-field,  and  Coe  College,  a  pros- 
perous institute,  at  Cedar  Rapids.  The  Luther  College  at  Decorah  is  the  largest  Norwegian 
school  in  the  Union.  Griswold  College  was  founded  by  Bishop  Perry,  at  Davenport,  over- 
looking the  Mississippi. 

The  University  of  Des  Moines  (1866),  the   Central   University  of    Iowa  (founded 

at  Pella  A.  in  1853),  and  Burlington  University  (1853),  are  small  Baptist  institutions.  The 
Methodists  control  Upper  Iowa  University,  founded  at  Fayette 
in  1857  ;  Iowa  Wesleyan  University,  founded  at  Mount  Pleas- 
ant in  1852  ;  Simpson  College,  founded  at  Indianola  in  1 86 1  ; 
and  Cornell  College,  founded  at  Mount  Vernon  in  1857.  The 
Christians  own  Drake  University,  at  Des  Moines.  The  Friends 
conduct  Whittier  College,  founded  at  Salem  in  1867,  and  Penn 
College,  at  Oskaloosa. 

The  Manufactures  of  Iowa  show  yearly  products  valued 
at  $70,000,000.  Along  the  Mississippi  extend  the  great 
saw-mills,  of  which  Iowa  has  300,  with  a  yearly  product  ex- 
ceeding $6,000,000.  Clinton  possesses  one  of  the  largest  saw-mills  in  the  world,  capable 
of  sawing  60,000  feet  of  lumber  an  hour.  There  are  flour-mills,  with  a  yearly  product  of 
$20,000,000;  meat-packing  establishments,  yielding  $11,000,000  yearly;  and  manu- 
factories of  agricultural  implements,  wagons,  furniture,  woolen  goods,  and  boots  and  shoes. 


DES    MOINES  :     POST-OFFICE. 


THE  STATE   OF  IOWA. 


261 


The  Railroads  of  Iowa  make  her  map  appear  like  an  intricate  lace-work.  The  five 
great  lines  of  the  Chicago,  Burlington  &  Quincy  ;  the  Chicago,  Rock-Island  &  Pacifier;  the 
Chicago  &  Northwestern  ;  the  Illinois  Central  (Iowa  Division)  ;  and  the  Chicago,  Milwaukee 


&  St. -Paul 
south  lines, 
Burlington, 
Almost  the 


sioux  CITY:  FIRST  CONGREGATIONAL  CHURCH. 


cross  it  from  east  to  west,  and  are  intersected  by  several  north  and 
the  Central  Iowa,  Minnesota  &  St. -Louis,  Sioux-City  &  Pacific, 
Cedar-Rapids  &  Northern,  and  Chicago,  St. -Paul  &  Kansas-City, 
whole  State  was  at  one  time  covered  by  railway  land-grants. 

Chief  Cities. —  Des  Moines,  the  capital  of  Iowa,  occupies 
the  site  of  the  old  Fort  Des  Moines,  a  United-States  garrison 
from  1832  to  1837  (and  then  the  remotest  outpost  on  the  north- 
west frontier),  in  a  lovely  valley  of  the  corn  and  blue-grass  belt, 
guarded  by  sloping  hills  and  rich  in  coal-mines.    Among 
its  products  are  wire-fencing,  carriages,  pork,  and  cotton 
and  woolen  goods.     It  is  one  of  the  leading  railroad  cen- 
tres of  the  country,  and  has  a  large  jobbing-trade.     Fort 
Dodge  was  founded  in   1850,  by  veteran  troops  of  the 
Florida  wars,  to  check  the  hostile  Sacs  and  Foxes,  and  garrisoned  until  1853. 

Keokuk,  ' '  the  Gate  City, "  has  a  pleasant  site  on  a  high  bluff,  in  a  long  curve  of  the 
Mississippi,  at  the  foot  of  the  Lower  Rapids.  In  1840,  there  were  a  dozen  huts  here, 
surrounded  by  a  deep  forest,  where  seven  railways  now  converge,  in  a 
city  of  iron-foundries  and  meat-packing  houses.  Fort  Madison  was 
built  in  1808,  and  several  times  attacked  by  the  Indians.  It  is  now  a 
busy  shipping-port. 

Burlington,  a  pleasant  city  in  "the  garden  of  Iowa,"  dates  from 
1833,  and  was  named  for  a  Vermont  town.  It  has 
a  large  volume  and  great  variety  of  manufactures. 
There  are  ten  lines  of  railway  converging  here. 
Davenport  is  a  thriving  city  on  the  bluffs  opposite 
Rock  Island,  with  a  costly  bridge  across  the  Missis- 
sippi. It  is  the  centre  of  an  important  onion-raising 
district,  and  has  a  large  jobbing  trade. 

Dubuque  is  an  active  city  on  the  Mississippi, 
with  the  terminals  of  five  railroads,  a  business  of 
$40,  ooo,  CKDO  yearly,  large  grain  and  lumber  trades, 
and  works  where  steel  steamboats  are  made.  It 
occupies  a  plateau  nearly  surrounded  by  high  bluffs. 
Muscatine  crowns  the  bluffs  in  a  great  westerly  bend  COUNCIL  BLUFFS  :  COURT-HOUSE. 
of  the  Mississippi,  and  rejoices  in  large  lumber  and  meat-packing  industries. 

Turn-      i      ing   from  the    Mississippi  to  the    Missouri,  another   tier  of  cities   comes 
into    view.  Council  Bluffs  lies  not  far  from  the  old  meeting-point  of  the  Indian  tribes  ; 

and  here  the  Mormons  tarried  from  1846  to  1849,  while  on  their 
way  to  Utah.  For  many  years  it  was  the  last  village  in  civilized 
America,  and  here  California  emigrants  and  trappers  procured 
their  outfits  before  entering  the  Indian  country.  It  lies  across 
the  Missouri  from  Omaha  (Neb).  Six  railways  running  west 
from  Chicago  here  meet  the  Union  Pacific  line,  and  others 
diverge  to  the  north  and  south.  The  city  has  fine  public  build- 
ings, newspapers,  stock-yards  and  elevators,  and  a  wholesale 
trade  of  $33,000,000  a  year,  covering  a  wide  area  of  the  Mis- 
souri Valley. 

Sioux  City,  a  flourishing  manufacturing  and  railroad  centre, 
DAVENPORT  :  SCOTT-CO.  COURT-HOUSE.  and  withal  a  lovely  city  of  homes,  was  laid  out  in  1854  at  the 


262 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 


SIOUX  CITY  :    SIOU 


bend  of  the  Missouri,  and  covers  a  wide  area  of  rich 
farming  country  with  its  commerce.  It  has  extensive 
meat-packing  works  and  manufactories,  including  one 
of  the  largest  flaxseed-oil  mills,  using  2,000  car-loads 
of  flaxseed  yearly.  Over  25,000,000  bricks  are  made 
here  yearly,  and  vast  quantities  of  stoneware.  During 
1887  the  territory  tributary  to  Sioux  City  was  57  days 
without  rain,  and  yet  the  average  yield  of  corn  to 
the  acre  was  76  bushels.  This  wonderful  condition, 
illustrative  of  the  resistance  of  the  Iowa  soil  to  drouth, 
created  the  thought  of  some  festival  commemorative 
of  such  condition,  and  the  corn  palace  of  1887  was 
erected,  followed  by  others  in  1888,  1889  and  1890,  the  centre  of  the  great  hai'vest  festivals 
of  the  northwest.  Sioux  City  shows  intense  activity  in  building,  in  development  of  every 
character,  and  in  new  manufactories. 

Cedar  Rapids  has  a  large  water-power  on  the  Cedar  River,  with  machinery  and 
carriage-factories,  great  oat-meal  mills,  pork-packing  establishments,  and  25  wholesale 
trading-houses  at  the  crossing  of  several  railroads,  and  in  a  rich  dairy  country.  It  has  the 
only  Masonic  Library  Building  in  the  West,  and  the  largest 
Masonic  library  in  the  world.  Among  other  important  towns 
are  Ottumwa,  Clinton,  Marshalltown,  Creston  and  Waterloo. 

Finances. — The  peculiarly  advantageous  situation  of  Sioux 
City,  in  the  heart  of  the  best  corn-growing  region  of  America, 
and  the  unusual  enterprise  of  its  citizens  and  mercantile  com- 
panies, have  contributed  toward  making  the  rising  metropolis  an 
important  financial  centre.  The  volume  of  banking  business  is 
so  great  that  it  has  been  found  necessary  to  organize  a  clearing- 
house, whose  transactions  already  surpass  those  of  any  other 
Iowa  city.  The  foremost  of  the  financial  institutions  is  the 
Sioux  National  Bank,  the  largest  national  bank  not  only  in 
Sioux  City  but  in  the  whole  State  of  Iowa.  It  has  already  re- 
sources of  over  $1,800,000,  and  has  declared  a  full  score  of 
good  dividends,  and  its  business  is  incessantly  increasing.  Ever 
since  its  foundation,  the  Sioux  National  Bank  has  been  a  valu- 
able help  to  the  undertakings  which  have  been  springing  up  around  it,  and  has  advanced 
its  own  cause  and  the  general  interests  of  the  city  with  wisdom  and  foresight. 

Already  the  exceptional  energy  and  activity  of  this  northwestern  metropolis  of  Sioux 
City  have  accumulated  here  a  large  capital  for  banking  and  investment ;  and  in  order  to  regu- 


SIOUX  CITY  :    UNION   LOAN 
AND  TRUST  CO. 


late  and  safely 
pany  was  found- 
capital  of 


cash 


SIOUX  CITY  !    Y.   M.    C.   A.  BUILDING. 


place  these  great  sums  of  money  the  Union  Loan  and  Trust  Corn- 
ed at  Sioux  City,  in  1885.  This  corporation  has  a  paid-up 
,000,000,  and  resources  of  $2,000,000;  and  has  paid  semi- 
annual dividends  of  five  per  cent,  ever  since  its  organiza- 
tion, never  having  lost  a  dollar  by  bad  debts.  Its  net 
earnings  are  about  $200,000  a  year.  The  Union  Loan 
and  Trust  Company  handles  a  large  amount  of  commercial 
paper,  and  municipal,  corporation  and  school  bonds  ;  and 
receives  funds  for  investment,  paying  interest  on  the  same 
until  invested.  Under  skilful  and  conservative  manage- 
ment, with  George  L.  Joy  as  president,  this  institution  has 
become  a  well-recognized  financial  power  in  the  rich  and 
fast-developing  country  tributary  to  Sioux  City,  and  has 
an  honorable  past,  and  a  promising  future. 


107,206 
364,399 
996,096 
952,155 


110,086 

536,667 

459,429 

1,427,096 


HISTORY. 

Deep  in  the  inmost  heart 
of  America,  the  virgin  prai- 
ries of  Kansas  lay  fallow  for 
centuries,  haunted  by  a  few 
roving  bands  of  wild  In- 
dians and  traversed  by  in- 
numerable herds  of  buffalo. 
As  early  as  1541,  however, 

Francisco  Vasquez  de  Coro- 

nado  commanded  a  Spanish  expedition  which  marched  from 
Mexico  to  the  northern  boundary  of  Kansas,  in  search  of 
gold  and  silver.  The  route  of  Coronado  was  through  the 
counties  of  Barber,  Kingman,  Reno,  Harvey,  McPherson, 
Marion,  Dickinson,  Geary,  Riley,  Pottawatomie,  and  Ne- 
maha  —  a  due  northeast  line.  Coronado  says  he  traversed 
''mighty  plains  and  sandy  heaths,  smooth  and  wearisome, 
and  bare  of  wood.  All  that  way  the  plains  are  as  full  of 
crooked-backed  oxen  as  the  mountain  Serena  in  Spain  is  of 
sheep. "  This  is  the  first  authentic  account  of  the  buffalo. 
The  French  fur-traders  from  Louisiana  and  Canada  estab- 
lished a  station  in  Kansas,  as  early  as  1 705,  and  thencefor- 
ward for  nearly  a  century  these  gallant  chevaliers  held  little 
commercial  posts  within  the  prairie  regions.  After  DuTis- 
senet  explored  the  Missouri  Valley,  in  1719,  for  France, 
the  Spaniards  at  Santa  Fe  sent  an  expedition  across  the 
Plains  to  seize  upon  the  country  in  advance.  Encamping 
at  Leavenworth,  they  endeavored  to  ally  themselves  with 
the  Missourias,  then  at  war  with  the  Pawnees,  but  2,000 
painted  warriors  fell  upon  them  in  the  night,  and  massa- 
cred every  man,  except  a  tonsured  priest,  who  was  re- 
leased and  sent  back  to  Santa  Fe.  The  greater  part  of 
Kansas  came  to  the  United  States  by  the  Louisiana  Pur- 
chase. The  southwestern  corner  was  included  in  the  Re- 
public of  Texas.  So  part  of  the  State  came  from  France, 

and  part  from  Spain.  Kansas  Territory  when  first  organized  included  that  part  of  Colorado 
east  of  the  crest  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  Among  the  first  Americans  to  visit  this  region 
were  the  expeditionary  forces  of  Lewis  and  Clarke,  in  1804,  and  Major  Long,  in  1819.  The 


Settled  at  .     .      Fort  Leavenworth. 

Settled  in 1850 

Founded  by    .   Western  Americans. 
Admitted  as  a  State, 
Population  in  1860,      .     . 

In  1870 

In  1880,    .... 
White,      .     .     . 

Colored, 

American-born,     .     . 
Foreign-born,   .     .     . 

Males, 

Females,  .     .     .    .     , 

In  1890  (U.  S.  Census), 
Population  to  the  square  mile,     12.2 
Voting  Population,     .     .    .     265,714 

Vote  for  Harrison  (1888),       182,904 

Vote  for  Cleveland  (1888),  102,745 
Net  State  Debt,  ....  o 

Assessed  Valuation  of 

Property  (1890),  .  .  $291,000,000 
Area  (square  miles),  .  .  .  82,080 
U.  S.  Representatives  (1893),  8 

Militia  (disciplined),    .     .     .         1,859 

Counties, in 

Post-offices, 1,799 

Railroads  (miles),   ....        8,806 
Manufactures  (yearly),   .  $30,790,212 

Operatives, 12,064 

Yearly  Wages,  .  .  .  $3,999,599 
Farm  Land  (in  acres),  .  21,454,470 

Farm-Land  Values,       $235,178,936 

Farm  Products  (yearly),  $52,240,301 
Public  Schools,  Average 

Daily  Attendance,  .     .     .     244,697 

Newspapers, 765 

Latitude, 37°  to  40°  N. 

Longitude,      .    .     94035' to.  102°  W. 
Temperature,     .     .     .    —29°  to  108° 
|  Mean  Temperature  (Leaven- 
l      worth), 50° 


TEN  CHIEF  CITIES  AND  THEIR  POPU- 
LATIONS.    (Census  of  1890.) 

Kansas  City 38,316 

.  .  •  31,007 

.  .  .  23,853 

.  .  .  19,768 

.  .  .  13,963 

.  .  .  11,946 

•  •  •  9,997 


Topeka, 
Wichita, 
Leavenworth,  . 
Atchison,      .. 
Fort  Scott,   .. 
Lawrence,    .. 
Hutchinson,      . 
Arkansas  City 


8,347 


Emporia  ........      7,551 


264  KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE   UNITED  STATES. 

overland  trade  on  the  Santa-Fe  trail  began  in  1823,  and  the  outward-bound  traders  rendez- 
voused at  Council  Grove,  until  trains  were  made  up  strong  enough  to  beat  off  the  Indians 
on  the  perilous  route  of  800  miles.  The  caravan  of  1 860  contained  6,000  men  and  2,000 
wagons.  A  fort  was  erected  on  the  Missouri  to  protect  this  trade,  in  1827, 
and  received  the  name  of  Col.  Leaven  worth,  of  the  Third  United- States 
Infantry,  then  in  garrison.  This  became  an  important  point  during  the 
Mexican  War  and  the  Californian  and  Mormon  migrations.  The  troops 
led  to  the  conquest  of  New  Mexico  marched  hence  across  the  Kansas 
prairies;  and  in  1849-50  90,000  Argonauts  moved  westward  toward  Cali- 
fornia, bidding  farewell  to  civilization  at  Fort  Leavenworth. 

The  Missouri  Compromise  of  1 820  provided  that  the  part  of  the  Louisi- 
ana Purchase  lying  north  of  36°  30"  (Missouri  being  excepted)  should  be 
LEAVENWORTH  :  exempt  from  human  slavery  forever.  Arkansas  came  into  the  Union  as  a 
STATUE  OF  GRANT.  slave  State,  and  Iowa  as  a  free  State,  under  this  agreement.  But  when 
the  question  of  Kansas  arose,  a  bitter  struggle  set  in  between  the  anti-slavery  and  pro- 
slavery  parties  in  Congress  and  in  the  Territory.  The  Kansas-Nebraska  Act  of  1854  re- 
pealed the  condition  about  slavery,  and  left  it  for  each  commonwealth  to  settle  for  itself 
whether  its  soil  should  be  free  or  slave.  Two  great  hostile  tides  of  immigration  began  to 
flow  into  the  disputed  territory,  one  composed  of  Pro- Slavery  men  from  Missouri  and  the 
South,  and  the  other  of  Free-Soil  colonists  from  New  England 
and  the  Middle  States.  For  a  time  it  was  not  possible  for  the 
latter  to  pass  across  Pro- Slavery  Missouri,  and  so  "Lane's 
Trail"  was  formed  through  Iowa  and  Nebraska  ;  and  over  this 
circuitous  route  thousands  of  Free- State  men  poured  into 
Kansas.  A  terrible  civil  war  ensued,  lasting  for  several  years, 
and  the  new  country  was  ravaged  by  Jayhawkers,  Kickapoo 
Rangers,  Blue  Lodges,  Regulators  and  other  armed  bands. 
Lawrence,  Osawatomie  and  other  towns  were  sacked ;  hundreds 
of  men  were  killed  in  battle,  or  assassinated  ;  armies  of  thou- 
sands, with  artillery,  moved  up  and  down  the  country ;  and 
' '  Bleeding  Kansas  "  aroused  the  pity  of  the  world.  Eli  Thayer, 

»  AT  Jii_r  Ji-u-NT-r-iJT1-  WICHITA  '    COURT-HOUSE. 

Amos  A.  Lawrence  and  others  lormed  the  JNew- England  Emi- 
grant-Aid Society,  with  $1,000,000  capital,  and  sent  out  many  fearless  volunteers,  armed 
with  Sharp's  rifles.  The  Pro- Slavery  party  under  Atchison  and  Lecompte  held  their  quar- 
ters at  Atchison  and  Leavenworth ;  the  Freedom  party,  under  John  Brown,  Conway,  Lane 
and  Robinson,  centered  around  Lawrence  and  Topeka.  The  convention  at  Wyandotte,  in 
1859,  produced  a  constitution  forbidding  slavery,  and  the  people  voted  for  it,  10,421  to  5,530, 
thus  settling  forever  the  vexed  question  which  had  caused  so  much  sorrow  and  bloodshed. 

Kansas  furnished  to  the  United-States  army  nearly  one  sixth  of  her  population,  in  17 
regiments  (largely  of  cavalry),  and  three  batteries.  The  State  sent  into  the  field  20,097 
men,  being  3,433  above  her  quota.  Already  exhausted  by  a  decade  of  conflicts,  Kansas 
suffered  new  perils  and  losses,  especially  along  the  southeastern  frontier, 
not  only  from  the  operations  of  organized  troops,  but  also,  and  chiefly,  from 
the  desultory  attacks  of  guerilla  bands,  which  showed  no  mercy 
to  either  side.  The  destruction  of  the  unarmed  town  of  Lawrence 
j  was  one  of  the  most  terrible  episodes  of  the  civil  war. 

The  settlers  of  Kansas  were  the  bravest  men  from 
North  and  South,  coming  hither  to  fight  for  the  hostile 
principles  of  Free  Soil  and  Slavery.     When    the   ten 
IPPEKA  :  GRACE  CHURCH  CATHEDRAL.        years'  war  had  ceased,  these  tried  veterans  turned  their 
energies  to  the  material  development  of  the  State,   exploring,  exploiting  and  cultivating 
everywhere.     In  30  years  the  population  increased  twenty-fold. 


WICHITA  :  FAIRMOUNT  COLLEGE. 


THE  STATE  OF  KANSAS.  265 

The  Name  of  the  State  is  an  Indian  word.  The  Bureau  of  Ethnology  says  that  Kan- 
sas is  a  Siouan  word,  which  has  been  used:  1st,  as  a  tribal  name;  2d,  as  the  name  of  a 
Kansa  gens,  part  of  which  are  real  Wind  people  ;  3d,  as  the  name  of  an  Omaha  gens,  Wind 
people;  and  4th,  as  an  Osage  gens,  Wind  people,  and  South-  Wind  1  people.  The 
name  also  appears  in  personal  names,  meaning  eagle  or  wind.  It  SL  thus  appears 
that  the  word  has  reference  to  wind,  and  may  apply  specifically  to  gHHi^  a  certain  south- 
wind  well-known  locally.  In  the  old  days  Kansas  was 
known  as  THE  JAYHAWKER  STATE.  One  autumn,  in  1856, 
Pat  Devlin,  a  Free-  State  Irishman,  rode  into  Osawatomie. 
"Have  you  been  foraging,  Pat?"  "Yes,  I've  been  out 
jayhawking.  We  have  a  bird  in  Ireland  we  call  the  jay- 
hawk  ;  it  worries  its  prey  before  devouring  it."  In  1  86  1, 
Col.  Jennison  called  his  rough-riding  soldiers  "  Jayhawk- 
ers,"  and  the  name  soon  came  to  be  applied  to  all  Kansans. 
Kansas  is  known  as  THE  SUNFLOWER  STATE,  on  account  of  the  abundance  and  luxuriance 
of  these  flowers,  which  are  native  to  her  prairies. 

The  Arms  of  Kansas  represent  a  prairie  landscape,  with  buffalo  pursued  by  Indian  hun- 
Hters,  a  settler's  cabin,  a  river  with  a  steamboat,  and  a  cluster  of  34  stars.     The  motto  is 
AD  ASTRA  PER  ASPERA,  "To  the  Stars  through  Difficulties,"  alluding  to  the  troubles  that 
Kansas  endured  while  endeavoring  to  become  a  State. 

i  The  Governors  of  Kansas  have  been  :  Territorial:  Andrew 

•ML'  H.  Reeder,  1854-5;  Wilson  Shannon,  1855-6;  John  W.  Geary, 

IJB  -    1856-7;  Robert  J.  Walker,    1857-8;  Jas.   W.   Denver,    1858; 

.-...,;     Samuel  Medary,  1858-60;  Geo.  M.  Beebe,  1860-1.   State  :  Chas. 
•JJfatiiBBtelkj  A  '          Robinson,  1861  ;  Thos.  Carney,  1861-4  ;  S.  J.  Crawford,  1864-9  > 
^.OTiMB^^i^g          James  M.  Harvey,  1869-73  >  Thos.  A.  Osborne,  1873-7  >  George 
ESlgS          T.   Anthony,    1877-9;  John  p-   St.  John,    1879-83;  Geo.   W. 
''l-I^MIII^PW.^!1!      Click,  1883-5;  John  A-  Martin,  1885-9;  and  Lyman  U.  Hum- 

.-lh^Bi5§P^^phrey'  I88.9~?3> 

"".>"••'  '."  r""  —  ~~~~"  Descriptive.  —  Kansas  is  the  central  State  of  the  American 

Union,  the  eighth  in  area,  and  the  second  in  extent  of  arable 

WICHITA  :  CITY  HALL.  soj^      jj.  js  considerably  larger  than  all  New  England  ;  twice  as 

large  as  Ohio  ;  and  about  equal  to  Great  Britain.  Its  length  is  408  miles  ;  and  its  breadth 
208  miles.  Kansas  is  midway  between  the  Atlantic  and  the  Pacific,  and  between  Manitoba 
and  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  Its  vast  undulating  plain  rises  from  the  south  to  the  north,  and 
from  750  feet  above  the  sea,  on  the  east,  to  4,000  feet  high  on  the  northwestern  frontier.  This 
great  inclined  prairie  is  dotted  with  woodlands,  and  indented  by  the  broken  valleys  of  hun- 
-  dreds  of  streams.  From  the  billowy  bluffs  the  view  includes  rolling  prairies,  grassy  hills, 
and  lines  of  trees  fringing  the  hidden  rivers.  The  prairie  forms  a  succession  of  long  rolls, 


above  the 
coloring 
tense  un- 
and  easy 


or  waves,  from  1,000  to  5,000  feet  from  crest  to  crest,  and  from  25  to  80  feet 
intervening  valleys,  usually  resting  in  a  bath  of  brightness,  with  the  rich  deep 
of  the  blue-black  earth,  the  tender  green  of  the  wheat-fields,  and  the  in- 
ruffled  ultramarine  of  the  sky.     The  soil  is  free  from  stones,  very  fertile, 
•  of  cultivation.     In  the  southwest  there  is  a  tract  of  sandhills,  100 
miles  long  and  three  miles  wide,  once  shunned  by  every  one,  but 
recently  developed  as  grazing  territory.      The  Flint  Hills  lie  east 
of  Wichita  ;  the  Gypsum  Hills,  west  of  Medicine  Lodge  ;  and  the 
Blue  Hills,  between  the  Solomon  and  the  Saline.     The  Gypsum 
Hills  form  a  long-drawn  region  of  red  clays  and  rocks,  cut  into  FORT  RILEY  :  OGDEN  MONUMENT, 
singular  cliffs  and  spires,  and  capped  with  a  thick  layer  of  gyp-         E  CENTRE  OF  THE  UNION> 
sum.     The  plains  are  diversified  by  a  few  natural  curiosities,  like  Monument  Rocks,  Castle 
Rock,  Medicine  Peak  and  the  Twin  Buttes,  in  the  northwest ;  the  Rock  City,  Perforated 


266 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 


THE  GYPSUM    HILLS. 


Rock,  Pulpit  Rock,  and  Table  Rock,  in  the  centre;  the  pic- 
turesque Pilot  Knob,  near  Leavenworth,  and  the  mounds  • 
along  the  Marmaton  and  the  Verdigris.  The  centre  and  : 
north  are  traversed  by  the  Kansas  River  (400  miles  long),  ! 
formed  by  the  confluence  of  the  Smoky-Hill  and  the  Repub-  ! 
lican,  each  with  its  net-work  of  creeks.  The  Smoky-Hill 
flows  from  Colorado  as  a  little  sandy  arroyo,  gaining  in 
power  as  it  moves  eastward,  under  green  and  yellow  shaly 
banks  and  hills  of  white  and  buff  limestone,  and  through  pin- 
nacles of  Dakota  sandstone.  On  the  plains  of  Saline  County 
it  receives  the  Saline  (200  miles  long),  and  the  Solomon  (250  miles),  flowing  from  their  sharp 
little  canons  in  the  northwest,  between  low  cliffs  of  blue  and  orange  shale  and  chalk.  The 
Republican  River  runs  from  Colorado  around  through  Nebraska,  having  a  course  of  400 
miles.  The  Big  Blue  runs  125  miles  from  its  Nebraska  fountains  to  the  Kansas  River,  around 
the  rocky  hills  at  Manhattan.  The  Missouri  forms  the  eastern  frontier  for  150  miles,  some- 
times half  a  mile  across,  and  again  narrowing  to  a  thousand  feet,  and  everywhere  navigable. 
The  Arkansas  River  flows  for  440  miles  through  the  State,  with  a  sandy  bottom  and  many 
islands,  a  shallow  reddish-colored  stream,  between  low  and  bare  banks.  The  rivers  have  a 
fall  of  but  7^  feet  to  the  mile.  This  easy  grade  affords  facilities  for  artificial  irrigation, 
which  are  availed  of  in  the  west  and  southwest.  The  Cimarron  waters  much  of  southwest- 
ern Kansas ;  and  the  Verdigris,  Neosho  and  Marais-des-Cygnes  and  their  myriad  tributaries 
water  the  southeast  and  east.  Steam- 
boats have  ascended  the  Arkansas  River 
into  Kansas,  and  the  Kansas  River  to 
Junction  City,  on  the  Smoky-Hill  Fork, 
but,  strictly  speaking,  none  of  the  streams, 
except  the  Missouri,  is  navigable. 

Since  1883  the  western  counties,  once 
regarded  as  unavailable  for  farming,  and 
used  only  by  the  stock -raisers,  have  been 
occupied  by  many  homesteaders.  The  GARDEN  CITY  :  HERD  OF  BUFFALO. 

vast  herds  of  buffalo  that  formerly  traversed  these  high  and  treeless  plains  have  vanished. 
A  herd  of  50  buffalo  is  kept  on  a  ranch e,  near  Garden  City.  The  United- States  Experiment 
Station  at  Garden  City  has  shown  that  by  pulverizing  the  soil,  and  covering  it  at  first  with 
matted  wheat-straw,  crops  can  be  raised  without  irrigation  on  these  arid  lands. 

The  Climate  is  pleasant,  in  spite  of  the  sudden  and  extreme  changes.  The  winters  are: 
mild  and  dry,  although  the  thermometer  sometimes  registers  extreme  cold.  The  heats  of 
summer  are  moderated  by  the  prairie  breezes,  and  by  the  almost  unfailing  coolness  of  the ; 
nights.  The  rapid  radiation  of  heat  into  a  clear  and  cloudless  sky  from  these  elevated  plains 
causes  a  delightful  change  at  nightfall.  The  high  plateau  of  the  western  border  has  a  lower 
temperature  than  eastern  Kansas,  with  a  dry,  bracing  and  rarefied  air.  The  winters  else- 
where are  short,  and  ploughing  is  done  in  November  and  February.  The  hot  winds  of  sum- 
mer sometimes  bring  disaster  to  the  crops. 
North  of  the  long  water-shed  between  the 
Kansas  and  the  Arkansas  the  climate  is 
markedly  cooler,  and  wheat  thrives  well. 
West  of  100°  the  rainfall  is  below  20 
inches  in  a  year. 

The  Farm-products  reach  a  value 
of  $140,000,000  a  year,  and  the  valuation 
of  the  farms  is  above  $450,000,000.  It 
is  one  of  the  important  agricultural  States, 


GARDEN    CITY  I    UNITED-STATES    EXPERIMENT    STATION. 


THE  STATE   OF  KANSAS. 


267 


A    KANSAS    STOCK-RANGE. 


with  its  glorious  wheat  carpets  alofigthe  uplands 
in  June,  and  the  wealth  of  corn  and  sorghum 
which  August  brings.  The  average  yearly  corn- 
crop  of  1877-8-9  was  88,000,000  bushels,  which 
rose  in  1884  to  191,000,000,  valued  at  $40,- 
000,000.  In  1888,  5,600,000  acres  produced 
169,000,000  bushels,  valued  at  $52,000,000; 
and  in  1889,  6,800,000  acres  produced  274,- 
000,000  bushels.  The  wheat-crop  rose  by  1880 
to  25,000,000  bushels  yearly,  valued  at  $21,- 
000,000,  and  in  1884,  to  48,000,000  bushels,  falling  again  below  6,000,000  in  the  drought 
year  of  1887,  and  then  rising  once  more,  to  35,000,000  bushels  in  1889.  The  crops  of  oats 
in  1877-8-9,  averaged  14,000,000  bushels  yearly;  and  in  1888  reached  55,000,000  bushels. 
Potatoes  rose  from  4,000,000  bushels  in  1880,  to  11,500,000  bushels  in  1889.  The  hay-crop 
includes  yearly  2,200,000  tons  of  prairie-hay,  1,000,000  tons  of  millet  and  Hungarian,  and 
700,000  tons  of  tame  grasses,  valued  at  $14,000,000.  The  prairies  also  produce  buckwheat 
and  barley,  rye  and  tobacco,  flax  and  hemp,  and  sweet  and  white  potatoes.  Kansas  yields 
40,000,000  pounds  of  broom-corn  yearly,  122,000  bushels  of  castor-beans,  and  645,000 
pounds  of  cotton.  The  most  reliable  crop  of  southern  Kansas  is  sorghum,  for  sugar,  syrup 
or  forage.  The  State  pays  a  bounty  of  two  cents  a  pound  on  this  sugar,  and  the  product  of 
1889  reached  1,500,000  pounds,  besides  5,000,000  gallons  of  syrup.  The  chief  factories  are 
Scott,  Topeka,  Douglas  and  Conway  Springs.  Within  a  brief  period  the 
of  raising  beets  for  sugar  has  attained  great  proportions,  and  $2,000,000 
is  invested  in  the  beet-sugar  factories.  Kan- 
sas has  upwards  of  20,000,000  fruit-trees,  and 
her  peaches,  apples,  cherries,  pears  and  plums, 
and  small  fruits,  are  famous  for  their  size  and 
flavor.  The  yearly  dairy-products  include 
30,000,000  pounds  of  butter,  500,000  pounds 

STATE  AGRICULTURAL  COLLEGE.  of    cheese,    $6oo,ooo  worth   of    milk,    and 

$1,800,000  worth  of  poultry  and  eggs.  Bees  are  kept  on  many  farms,  and  store  up  im- 
mense quantities  of  honey  from  Kansas  flowers.  Forty  million  acres  of  Kansas  soil  are  in 
grass,  supporting  an  enormous  number  of  domestic  animals,  including  750,000  horses,  bred 
up  with  fine  Clydesdale  and  Percheron,  Norman  and  Kentucky  stallions ;  100,000  mules, 
highly  valued  in  farming  operations;  800,000  milch-cows,  improved  by  admixtures  of  Here- 
ford and  Galloway,  Holstein  and  Jersey  stock;  and  2,000,000  other  cattle. 

The  live-stock  of  Kansas  is  valued  at  $150,000,000.  Horses  and  cattle  show  a  steady 
increase  for  20  years,  but  sheep  have  decreased  from  1,200,000  in  1884  to  300,000  now  (the 
State  has  160,000  dogs);  and  swine  have  fallen  off  from  2,000,000  in  1885  to  1,600,000. 
The  herdsmen  of  Kansas  are  favored  by  abundant  pasturage,  copious  water,  and  short  win- 
ters. The  great  stock-yards  and  packing-houses  of  Kansas  City,  Kansas,  have  built  up  an 
astonishing  business,  by  which  millions  of  people  who  rarely  eat  good  meat  before  are  now 


MANHATTAN 


UNION    STOCK- YARDS. 


268 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


EXCHANGE   BUILDING  I     KANSAS    CITY   STOCK   YARDS. 


supplied  plentifully  with  dressed  beef,  while 
the  canned  cooked  beef  is  shipped  to  the  four 
quarters  of  the  globe.  During  the  year  1890, 
1,472,229  cattle,  76,568  calves,  2,865,171 
hogs,  535,869  sheep,  and  37, 118  horses  and 
mules,  in  1 08, 1 60  cars,  were  received  at  these 
stock-yards,  and  of  these  animals  over  3,000- 
ooo  were  slaughtered,  1,600,000  sold  to  ship- 
pers, and  320,000  sold  to  feeders.  A  small 
part  of  the  yards  is  in  Kansas  City,  Missouri ; 
but  most  of  their  area  and  their  intricate  lines 
of  railway  are  in  Kansas  City,  Kansas.  There  is  but  one  city  in  the  world  which  surpasses, 
as  a  live-stock  market  and  meat-packing  centre,  this  metropolis  of  the  Sunflower  State. 
Most  of  the  famous  Kansas-City  packing-houses  are  in  the  Kansas  part  of  the  town.  They 
employ  a  capital  of  $8,000,000,  and  have  an  annual  output  of  $17,000,000,  including 
260,000,000  pounds  of  bacon  and  140,000,000  pounds  of  fresh  beef,  and  60,000,000  pounds 
of  lard  and  tallow,  canned  and  mess  beef.  The  Kansas-City  Stock-yards  were  founded  in 
1871,  and  now  handle  over  $75,000,000  worth  of  live-stock  yearly. 

The  Geology  of  Kansas  indicates  a  slow  uplifting  from  under  the  sea,  leaving  the 
strata  nearly  horizontal.  The  rocks  abound  in  fossils — the  mastodon,  the  elephant,  giant 
horses,  rhinoceroses,  camels,  sharks,  pterodactyls,  crocodiles,  redwood  trees,  palms  and  huge 

ferns.  There  are  zinc  and  lead  mines  in 
Cherokee  County  (at  Galena,  or  Short  Creek), 
with  23  smelters  at  Pittsburgh  (Kansas),  the 
second  zinc-producing  city  in  the  Union.  The 
export  of  these  metals  exceeds  $800,000  a 
year,  and  has  now  aggregated  $9,000,000. 
The  coal-fields  cover  17,000  square  miles, 
from  the  eastern  border  west  to  Wichita  and 
Beloit,  the  strata  being  nearly  horizontal  and 
without  faults.  The  Cherokee  vein,  three  feet 
thick,  and  30  miles  long,  occurs  from  the  out- 
crop to  1 20  feet  down,  and  employs  the  best  machinery  and  methods  in  the  State,  in  its 
mines  at  Scammonville,  Weir  City,  Pittsburgh,  Frontenac  and  Litchfield.  The  Fort-Scott, 
Leavenworth,  Pleasanton  and  La-Cygne  mines  also  produce  an  excellent  coal.  Osage  and 
Franklin  counties  have  several  mining  plants.  The  Kansas  coal  is  bituminous,  and  nearly 
free  from  sulphur,  and  has  value  for  smelting  and  gas-making.  Gas-wells  are  found  in  the 
coal  country,  at  Wyandotte,  Fort  Scott,  and  Paola,  where  this  fuel  is  used  in  manufacturing. 
In  western  Kansas  occur  beds  of  brown  lignite,  worked  from  drifts  in  the  hillsides.  New 
discoveries  of  mineral  treasures  are  made  from  time  to  time  throughout  the  State,  but  the 
cereal  wealth  of  the  farm-lands  will  always  be  the  chief  source  of  wealth. 

The  smelting-works  at  Kansas  City  are  among 
the  largest  in  the  world,  and  new  extensions  of 
their  operations  are  continually  going  forward,  so 
that  this  locality  bids  fair  to  become  more  and 
more  important  in  this  regard,  being  favorably 
placed  centrally  between  the  mines  and  markets. 
The  Consolidated  Kansas-City  Smelting  &  Refin- 
ing Company,  with  a  capital  of  $2,000,000,  has  its 
main  office  at  Kansas  City  (Mo.),  and  its  works  at 
Argentine  (Kan.),  with  branch  smelters  at  Lead- 
ville  (Col. )  and  El  Paso  (Texas).  This  enormous  ARKANSAS  CITY. 


PRAIRIE    FARM. 


THE  STATE   OF  KANSAS. 


269 


ARGENTINE  :    CONSOLIDATED    KANSAS-CITY    SMELTING    AND    REFINING    WORKS. 


plant  refines  gold  and  sil- 
ver, lead  and  copper,  from 
the  ores  of  all  the  princi- 
pal mining-camps  and  ore- 
markets  of  the  United 
States  and  Mexico.  The 
yearly  output  of  these 
smelting  and  refining 
works  exceeds  $18,000,000;  and  furnishes  one  fifth  of  all  the  silver  and  lead  smelted  in  the 
United  States.  The  Consolidated  Company  employs  over  2,500  men,  of  whom  400  are  at 
Argentine,  running  eight  blast-furnaces  in  the  smelting  of  ores,  and  a  large  number  of  desil- 
verizing, cupelling  and  concentrating  furnaces,  in  the  refining  of  the  metals.  The  total  num- 
ber of  blast  furnaces  at  the  three  establishments  is  21. 

Central  Kansas  is  of  the  Triassic  period,  with  extensive  and  easily- worked  beds  of  gray, 
white  and  cream-colored  dolomite,  or  magnesian  limestone,  which  is  sawed  and  planed  with 
ordinary  carpenters'  tools,  and  hardens  with  exposure.  This  beautiful  material  has  been 
extensively  used  in  Kansas  buildings.  Gypsum  quarries  are  also  found  in  this  region,  the 
stone  being  sometimes  compact  enough  for  building  material.  At  Solomon  City,  salt  is 
produced  from  salt- wells.  Beds  of  rock-salt  over  100  feet  thick  underlie  the  central  coun- 
ties. The  works  at  Hutchinson  can  produce  5,000  barrels  daily,  from  deposits  of  rock-salt ; 
fresh  water  being  forced  down  to  the  beds,  and  when  saturated  being  pumped  into  tanks 
and  evap-  ^  orated.  Salt  is  made  at  other  points,  being  in  demand  by  the  pork- 
packers.  There  are  extensive  salt-marshes,  covered  with  a 
brilliant  white  incrustation  of  salt  for  thousands  of  acres ;  and 
plains  of  crystallized  salt  from  six  to  30  inches  thick  are  found 
south  of  the  Great  Bend  of  the  Arkansas,  where  broad  saline 

>  ponds  have  dried  up.  Forty  thousand  square  miles  of  west- 
ern Kansas  is  of  the  Cretaceous  period,  with  valuable  white 
and  cream  chalk  quarries  in  the  bluffs.  Hydraulic  lime 
and  valuable  hydraulic  cement  are  found  in  abundance,  with 
beds  of  pure  salt  in  the  southwest,  and  mines  of  lignite  near 
the  Colorado  line.  Chalk  is  found  in  the  Smoky- Hill  Valley,  in  a  belt  over  30  miles  wide 
and  nearly  200  feet  thick.  Wa-Keeney  has  extensive  chalk- works.  There  are  9,000  square 
miles  of  Pliocene  marl  formations  in  the  northwest,  overlaying  Miocene  grit,  under  which 
occur  deep  strata  of  Niobrara  and  Fort-Benton  limestones  and  Dakota  sandstones.  In  this 
region  are  found  the  so-called  coralline  and  colored  marbles,  and  jasper  and  Kansas  agates. 
The  Government  consists  of  a  governor  and  executive  officers,  elected  every  two  years ; 
a  biennial  legislature  of  40  senators  and  125  representatives ;  and  supreme  and  district  courts. 
The  Capitol  at  Topeka  will  have  cost  not  far  from  $2,500,000.  The  eastern  wing  was  built 
in  1866-73  ;  and  the  centre  was  founded  in  1 88 1.  It  is  a  classical  structure,  somewhat  in  the 
style  of  the  Capitol  at  Washington.  The  State  Penitentiary,  near  Leavenworth,  has  850 
prisoners.  The  Industrial  Reformatory  at  Hutchinson  has  50  cells.  The  insane  asylums 
at  Topeka  and  Osawatomie  contain  1,200  inmates.  There  are  100  children  in  the  Asylum 
for  Idiotic  and  Imbecile  Youth,  at  Winfield ;  300  in  the  Institution  for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb, 
at  Olathe ;  90  in  the  Institution  for  the  Blind,  at  Wyandotte ; 
1 10  in  the  Soldiers'  Orphans'  Home  ;  and  200  in  the 
State  Reform  School,  near  Topeka. 

Education  is  one  of  the  foremost  interests  of 
Kansas,  whose  school-system  is  organized  with  great 
efficiency,  and  costs  $5,000,000  a  year.  Over 
$9,000,000  is  invested  in  property  for  schoolhouses. 
The  school-fund  now  amounts  to  $3,000,000,  and  LAWRENCE  UNIVERSITY  OF  KANSAS. 


TOPEKA  I    POST-OFFICE. 


270 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 


will  reach  $13,000,000.     Four  fifths  of  the  school  population  is  enrolled, 
and  nearly  one  half  is  in  average  daily  attendance.     The  University  of  Kan- 
sas, at  Lawrence,  has  departments  of  science,  literature 
and  arts  (131  students),  law  (51),  music  (60),  pharmacy 
(42),  and  art  (38),  with  more  than  200  sub-freshmen. 
One  third  of  these  are  women  ;  and  nine  tenths  are  from 
Kansas.     The  great  Main  Building,  the  North  College, 
the  Chemistry  Building,  and  the  handsome  Snow  Hall 
of  Natural  History  (of  Cottonwood  stone),  stand  on  a 
spacious   campus   on   Mount  Oread.     The  library  has 

11,000  volumes,  and  the  cabinets  150,000  specimens.  FORT  LEAVENWORTH:  OLD 
The  University  of  Lawrence,  the  forerunner  of  the  State  University,  was  founded  in  1859, 
by  the  Presbyterian  Church.  The  Episcopal  Church  afterwards  endeavored  to  carry  on  the 
institution,  but,  in  1864,  the  building  and  campus  were  secured  by  the  city,  for  the  State 
(a  donation  by  Hon.  Charles  Robinson);  and  in  1866  the  University  of  Kansas  went  into 
operation,  endowed  by  the  United  States  with  46,000  acres  of  land,  the  proceeds  of  whose 
sales  are  invested  by  the  State.  The  State  Normal  School  at  Emporia  has  14  instructors 
and  875  students.  The  Agricultural  College  at  Manhattan  possesses  a  large  experimental 
farm  and  valuable  endowments,  and  teaches  480  young  people.  It  is  a  university  of  indus- 
tries, adding  to  the  usual  literary  studies,  instruction  in  farming,  mechanical  work,  printing, 
sewing,  cooking,  dairying,  and  military  drill  and  tactics.  Washburn  College,  founded  at 
Topeka  in  1865,  has  about  50  students,  and  190  in  the  preparatory  school.  Lane  Univer- 
sity, at  Lecompton,  is  an  institution  of  the  United  Brethren  ; 
Ottawa  University  was  founded  by  the  Baptists  in  1865  ;  Gar- 
field  University  at  Wichita,  pertains  to  the  Christian  sect, 
and  opened  in  1887.  The  College  of  the  Sisters  of  Bethany, 
at  Topeka,  is  Episcopal.  The  Catholic  colleges  are  St.  Bene- 
dict's (Benedictine),  at  Atchison ;  St.  Mary's ;  and  St. 
Joseph's  at  Abilene.  The  Presbyterians  conduct  Highland 
University  and  the  College  of  Emporia.  The  Methodists 
have  Baker  University,  at  Baldwin  City ;  the  Kansas  Wesleyan  University,  at  Salina ;  and 
a  collegiate  institution  at  Winfield. 

The  Free  Public  Library  at  Topeka  has  10,000  volumes,  in  a  handsome  building;  and 
the  same  city  also  has  the  great  library  of  the  Kansas  Historical  Society,  of  40,000  volumes, 
and  the  State  Library,  of  28,000  volumes. 

The  National  Institutions  in  Kansas  are  of  much  importance  and  interest.  Old  Fort 
Leavenworth,  the  headquarters  of  the  military  department  of  the  Missouri,  has  ten  com- 
panies in  garrison.  This  famous  frontier  stronghold  stands  on  the  bluffs  of  the  Missouri, 
north  of  Leavenworth,  and  consists  of  the  long  and  austere  arsenal,  the  brick  barracks, 
scores  of  officers'  cottages,  school  buildings  and  a  noble  quadrangle  of  velvety  grass,  bor- 
dered by  stately  elms,  and  shaded  by  many  venerable  trees.  The  post  was  greatly  beauti- 
fied by  Gens.  Sheridan  and  Pope,  while  they  were  in  command,  and  is  one  of  the  most 
desired  stations  in  the  Republic.  The  drills  and  reviews  on  the  parade-ground  attract  many 
visitors ;  and  the  garrison-band  is  the  finest  in  the  West.  The  United-States  Infantry  and 
Cavalry  School, 
at  Fort  Leaven- 
worth, gives  young 
officers  practical 
and  theoretical  in- 
struction in  mili- 
tary tactics,  cere- 
monies, military  FORT  SCOTT  AND  THE  MARMATON  RIVER. 


UNIVERSITY  OF  KANSAS  '.  SNOW  HALL. 


THE  STATE   OF  KANSAS. 


271 


EMPORIA  :  STATE  NORMAL  SCHOOL. 


law,  hippology,  reconnaisance,  surveying,  attack  and  defence  by  outposts  and  masses,  and 
other  martial  themes.  It  is  a  war  college,  similar  in  purpose  to  the  Artillery  School  at  Fort 
Monroe.  At  Fort  Riley  is  a  National  School  for  the  practical  instruction  of  cavalry  and 
light  artillery  &  combined,  the  training  of  young  horses,  and  the  drilling  of 

recruits  for  the    Ivl.    .,       ,     !L   mounted  service.     There  are  eight  companies  in  garrison, 

this  fort  being  the  headquarters  of  the  famous  Seventh 
Cavalry.  Close  to  Fort  Riley  is  the  geographical  cen- 
tre of  the  Republic  (excluding  Alaska).  The  West- 
ern Branch  of  the  National  Home  for  Disabled  Volun- 
teer Soldiers  was  opened  in  1886,  and  contains  over 
1, 800  inmates.  It  has  long  ranges  of  barracks  and 
other  buildings,  in  a  beautiful  and  extensive  domain 
on  the  Missouri  River,  near  Leavenworth.  The  Home  band  gives  open-air  concerts  every 
Sunday.  The  United-States  Military  Prison  for  the  Army,  at  Fort  Leavenworth,  contains 
500  convicts,  enlisted  men  who  have  been  guilty  of  serious  misdemeanors.  They  are  held 
under  rigid  discipline ;  and  manufacture  boots  and  shoes,  harness  and  furniture,  and  other 
articles  for  army  use. 

About  a  thousand  Indians  remain  in  Kansas,  under  the  Pottawatomie  and  Great  Nemaha 
Agency,  besides  many  who  are  wandering  free.  They  have  long  forgotten  the  art  of  war, 
and  obtain  a  comfortable  subsistence  by  tilling  their  fields  and  raising  stock.  Their  better 
methods  of  living  and  caring  for  the  sick  have  checked  the  mournful  death-rate  of  the  tribes, 
and  they  are  already  showing  a  marked  increase  of  numbers.  Five  hundred  members  of  the 
Prairie  Band  of  Pottawatomies  occupy  77,000  acres  northwest  of  To-  pa  peka;  226 

Kickapoos  dwell  seven  miles  from  Netawaka ;  165  lowas  and  80 
Sacs  and  Foxes  occupy  24,000  acres  in  the  northeast;  and  75 
Chippewa  and  Munsee  (or  Christian)  Indians  are  near  Ottawa. 
Haskell  Institute,  at  Lawrence,  contains  400  boys  and  150  girls, 
from  34  tribes,  and  gives  them  a  thorough  industrial  training.  It 
was  founded  by  the  Government  in  1884,  and  is  the  second  In- 
dian school,  in  point  of  size.  LEAVENWORTH  :  POST-OFFICE. 

Chief  Cities. — Leavenworth  is  beautifully  placed  on  the  Missouri,  which  is  crossed  by 
a  great  steel  bridge.  It  was  for  manyyears  the  chief  city  of  Kansas,  and  has  a  large  manu- 
facturing and  shipping  business,  with  capital  local  institutions.  An  heroic  bronze  statue  of 
Gen.  Grant  was  unveiled  in  1889  at  Leavenworth.  Kansas  City,  Kansas,  is  separated  from 
Kansas  City,  Missouri,  by  the  State  line,  through  the  middle  of  one  of  its  streets.  It  is  the 
largest  city  in  the  State,  and  stands  on  the  Missouri  River,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kansas.  Its 
stock-yards  and  packing-houses  do  an  immense  business.  Topeka,  the  capital  city,  occupies 
a  pleasant  rolling  prairie  on  both  banks  of  the  Kansas  River.  It  is  a  large  milling-centre, 
and  has  manufactures  with  a  yearly  output  of  $10,000,000.  It  is  also  an  important  railway 

centre  and  distributing  point.  The  notice- 
able features  are  the  wide-paved  streets,  ex- 
tensive electric  street-car  service,  free  public 
*^  schools  and  colleges,  public  library,  and 
handsome  churches.  Lawrence  is  a  lovely 
little  New-England  city  on  both  sides  of  the 
Kansas  River,  with  its  broad  Massachusetts 
Avenue,  the  University  buildings  on  Mount 
Oread,  and  a  large  country-trade.  It  has  a 
valuable  water-power,  with  growing  manu- 
factures. Wichita,  the  metropolis  of  south- 
ern Kansas,  dates  from  1870,  and  grew  so 
amazingly,  that  it  is  called  "The  Magic  Mas- 


LEAVENWORTH  :    NATIONAL    SOLDIERS'     HOME. 


272 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 


-EAVENWORTH,   AND  THE   MISSOURI   RIVER. 


cement-works. 


cot  of  the  Plains,"  with  60  miles  of  street-car  lines,  and  factories  and  packing-houses  em- 
ploying 1,500  operatives.  Atchison  has  a  pleasant  situation  on  the  great  bend  of  the  Mis- 
souri, and  is  rich  in  varied  industries.  Fort  Scott  is  a  busy  city  on  the  Marmaton  River, 

with  the 
Govern- 
ment su- 
gar-works, 
and  gas- 
wells,  flag- 
stone quar- 
ries, brick- 
yards, and 

Railroads  run  in  seven  directions  from  Parsons,  a  busy  factory-town  and 
jobbing-point.  Ottawa  abounds  in  mills,'  for  flour,  sorghum,  iron,  castor-oil,  and  furniture. 
Hutchinson,  on  the  Arkansas,  was  founded  in  1872,  and  has  large  meat-packing,  sugar- 
making,  lard-refining  and  salt-works.  The  trade-centres  and  chief  shipping  points  of  south- 
western Kansas  are  Garden  City  and  Dodge  City,  high  up  on  the  Arkansas  River.  Man- 
hattan was  founded  by  Boston  and  Cincinnati  colonies,  in  1885,  and  is  now  a  prosperous 
and  pleasant  city,  on  the  Kansas  River.  Abilene,  on  the  Smoky-Hill  River,  used  to  be  the 
local  point  of  the  overland  cattle  trade.  It  has  long  passed  out  of  this  era  of  "revolvers 
and  canned  fruit,"  and  now  holds  high  rank  as  a  railway  and  manufacturing  centre.  Arkan- 
sas City  thrives  on  trade  with  the  neighboring  Indian 
Territory,  and  on  stock-raising  and  the,  handling  of 
grain  from  the  surrounding  farm -country. 

Railways. — The  vast  movement  of  corn  and 
wheat,  cattle  and  hogs  from  Kansas  to  the  East,  of 
hay  and  garden  and  dairy  products  and  flour  to  the 
mines  of  the  West,  is  rendered  possible  by  a  wonder- 
ful system  of  railways.  In  1859  there  was  not  a  mile 
of  track  in  the  Territory ;  now,  there  are  9,000  miles, 
and  only  four  counties  are  outside  of  their  lines.  The 
first  railway  was  begun  by  the  Kansas  Pacific  line,  in '1863,  at  Wyandotte.  This  was  rapidly 
constructed  through  to  Denver,  at  the  base  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  a  distance  of  639  miles, 
and  has  since  been  operated  by  the  Union  Pacific  system  as  one  of  the  great  thoroughfares 
of  the  continent.  Now  four  great  trunk  lines  cross  the  entire  State  from  east  to  west.  The 
Missouri  Pacific  traverses  the  centre  of  the  State,  clear  into  Colorado,  and  has  an  elaborate 
net- work  of  tracks  all  over  Kansas.  The  Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa-Fe,  with  its  9,000 
miles  of  track,  begins  in  Kansas,  and  thence  penetrates  the  mysterious  Southwest,  far  into 
Mexico,  with  scores  of  branches.  Westward,  it  reaches  California,  and  lays  down  its  freight 
and  passengers  at  San  Francisco  and  San  Diego.  Eastward  it  reaches  Chicago  and  St. 

Louis,  where  it  joins 
hands  with  all  the 
trunk  lines.  The  gen- 
eral offices  of  this 
great  corporation  are 
at  Topeka,  and  the 
main  shops  of  the  sys- 
tem are  also  located 
there. 

Manufactures. — 
Kansas  has  800  fac- 
tories, employing  16, - 
The  chief  articles  of 


FORT    LEAVENWORTH  :    MISSOURI-RIVER    BRIDGE. 


FORT    LEAVENWORTH  :    THE    BARRACKS. 


ooo  operatives  and  turning  out  $50,000,000  in  finished  products, 
manufacture  are  flour  and  meats. 


STATISTICS. 


,011 

1,648,690 
1,377,179 
271,451 
1,589,173 


832,590 

816,100 

1,855,436 


40,400 
ii 

•  1,336 

•  117 

13 


HISTORY. 

Hidden  behind  the  wil- 
derness of  the  Alleghanies, 
Kentucky  remained  nearly 
three  centuries  after  the  dis- 
covery of  America,  before 
the  vedettes  of  civilization 
looked  from  the  Cumberland 
Mountains  westward  over  her 

silent  forests.  Ages  had  passed  since  the  Mound  Builders 
vanished,  leaving  along  the  rivers  and  plateaus  great 
fortresses  and  mounds,  to  haunt  even  the  present  genera- 
tion with  their  mysteries ;  and  the  unpeopled  country  lay 
as  a  neutral  belt  and  hunting-ground  between  the  Dela- 
wares  and  Shawnees  on  the  north,  and  the  Creeks  and 
Cherokees  on  the  south.  Kentucky  was  included  in  the 
royal  grants  to  Virginia  ;  and  from  time  to  time  her  adven- 
turous hunters  and  the  mountaineers  of  North  Carolina 
explored  parts  of  the  empty  land.  In  1 769  Daniel  Boone, 
John  Findley  and  others  entered  this  region,  and  remained 
two  years.  In  1770  Washington  visited  northeastern  Ken- 
tucky; and  Col.  Knox  and  his  Long  Hunters  explored 
other  parts.  Harrodsburg  was  established  in  1774;  and 
the  next  year  Boone  founded  the  fort  of  Boonesborough, 
bringing  to  it  his  wife  and  daughters,  the  first  white  wo- 
men to  enter  this  commonwealth.  In  1776  Kentucky 
became  a  county  of  Virginia.  The  annals  of  the  region 
for  many  years  are  lurid  with  Indian  attacks  and  massa- 
cres, the  sieges  of  the  American  fortified  stations,  and  the 
bloody  forays  of  the  fierce  northern  savages  and  the  British 
troops  from  Canada. 

For  nearly  twenty  years  after  1 784,  the  Spanish  gov- 
ernment at  New  Orleans  was  engaged  in  a  series  of 
obscure  plots  with  Wilkinson,  Sebastian  and  other  promi- 
nent persons,  looking  toward  the  secession  of  Kentucky 
from  the  Union,  and  her  annexation  to  the  realms  of  Spain.  Carondelet  offered  to  send 
twenty  cannon  and  large  supplies  of  arms  and  money  up  the  river  to  aid  in  freeing  the  coun- 
try from  the  American  power.  At  about  the  same  time  (1806)  the  mysterious  scheme 


Settled  at  .  Harrodsburg,  in  1774 
Founded  by  ....  Virginians 
Admitted  to  the  United  States,  1792 
Population  in  1860,  .  1,155,  684 
Population  in  1870, 
Population  in  1880, 

White,       .     .    . 

Colored,    .     .     . 

American-born, 

Foreign-born,    . 

Males,       .     .     . 

Females,  .     .     . 
Population  in  1890, 
Population  to  the  square  mile,        10 
Voting  Population,  .     .     .        376,221 

Vote  for  Harrison  (1888),       155,134 

Vote  for  Cleveland  (1888),  183,800 
State  Debt,  less  than  funds  in  hand. 
Real  Value,  .  .  .  $1,449,000,000 
Banks,  ....... 

Deposits,      ..... 
Savings  Banks,    .......    o 

Deposits,      ........    o 

Area  (square  miles), 
U.  S.  Representatives, 
Militia  (disciplined),     . 
Counties,     ..... 

Cities,      ...... 

Towns     ...... 

Post-offices,     ..... 

Railroads  (miles)  .....       2,838 

Capital  and  Debt,      .    $191,000,000 

Gross  Yearly  Earnings,  $13,726,218 
Colleges  and  Professional  Schools,i3 
Public  Schools,  .... 
Enrolled  Pupils,  ....  319,022 
In  Sunday  Schools,  .  .  257,407 
Public  Libraries,  .....  o 

Volumes,        ......  123,000 

Daily  Papers,   .......      n 

Other  Papers  .......    211 

Latitude,      ...     36°  30'  to  39°  6' 
Longitude,   ...     82°  3'  to  89°  26' 
Temperature,        .... 

Mean  Temperature,     ....    56° 

TEN    CHIEF    CITIES    AND   THEIR 

POPULATIONS  (IN  1890). 
Louisville,     .......  161,005 

Covington,   ...  .    37,375 

24,938 


Newport, 

Lexington, 

Paducah, 

Maysville, 

Owensboro, 

Henderson,  . 

Frankfort,    . 


22,355 
13,024 
12,000 
10, 500 
10,000 
9,000 


Bowling  Green, 8,000 


274 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

of  Aaron  Burr  for  conquering  a  Southwestern  empire 
out  of  Spain's  colonies  was  under  way,  and  the  arch- 
conspirator  enlisted  many  Kentuckians  in  his  abor- 
tive plot.  The  vast  majority  of  the  people  and  their 
leaders  remained  loyal  and  law-abiding,  and  so  these 
strange  dreams  came  to  nought,  and  Kentucky  in  due 
time  attained  her  long-denied  aspirations,  the  honors 
of  Statehood  and  the  free  navigation  of  the  lower 
Mississippi. 

The  Kentuckians  have  always  been  a  martial  race. 
They  furnished  for  the  War  of  1812  the  yth,  iyth  and 
28th  U. -S.  Infantry,  besides  many  regiments  of  hard- 
fighting  militia.  To  the  Mexican  war  they  sent  13,700  brave  volunteers  ;  and  the  monu- 
ment to  their  slain  at  Frankfort  called  forth  the  noble  poem,  The  Bivouac  of  the  Dead,  by 
Col.  Theodore  O'Hara,  a  Kentuckian  officer. 

During  the  Secession  madness  Kentucky  at  first  stood  aside,  endeavoring  to  remain  an 
armed  neutral  State,   mediating  between  the  combatants.      She  was  a  slave-holding  com- 


LEXINGTON    IN    1782. 


but  on  the 
Henry  Clay, 
was  a  Seces- 
State  Guard, 
portion  of  the 
and  Stripes, 
profession  of 
1 86 1,  and  the 
"The  Dark 


munity,  having  the  closest  social  and  business  relations  with  the  South ; 
other  hand  her  people  cherished  that  profound  love  for  the  Union  which 
"Harry  of  the  West,"  had  spent  his  life  in  nurturing.  Gov.  Magoffin 
sionist,  but  the  Legislature  declared  boldly  for  the  Union,  and  armed  the 
who  were  ordered  to  swear  allegiance  to  the  Republic.  A  large  pro- 
Kentuckians  entered  the  armies,  91,900  of  them  fighting  under  the  Stars 
and  40,000  under  the  hostile  colors.  Disregarding  the  Governor's 
neutrality,  the  Confederates  marched  into  the  State,  September  3d, 
Federals  September  7th  ;  and  Kentucky  for  years  after  became  again 
and  Bloody  Ground."  Unable  to  extend  their  frontier  to  the  Ohio,  the 
Confederates  formed  a  line  of  defense  across  the  midlands,  with  Colum- 
bus and  Bowling  Green  strongly  fortified  ;  heavily  garrisoned 
works  on  the  Tennessee  and  Cumberland  rivers  ;  and  Zolli- 
coffer's  army  advancing  from  Cumberland  Gap  as  a  flying  ^. 
right  wing.  The  defeat  of  the  latter,  by  Gen.  Thomas,  at  ' 
Mill  Spring,  and  Garfield's  victory  over  Humphrey  Marshall, 
at  Prestonsburg,  freed  the  eastern  counties  from  insurgents. 
Grant's  17,000  men  and  Foote's  iron-clad  gunboats,  after  a 
bloody  February  campaign,  captured  Forts  Donelson  and 
Henry,  ten  miles  apart,  on  the  Cumberland  and  Tennessee  rivers,  with  their  garrisons 
of  15,000  Confederates.  In  September,  1862,  Bragg  and  Kirby  Smith  invaded  the  State 
with  splendid  Confederate  armies,  and  sharply  menaced  Louisville  and  Cincinnati,  but  were 
defeated  at  Perryville,  and  driven  back  through  Cumberland  Gap.  After  this  perilous 
campaign,  there  occurred  no  events  of  military  importance,  although 
John  Morgan  and  his  gallant  Confederate  horsemen  made  several 
destructive  forays  through  the  State. 

Since  the  war-flags  were  furled,  Kentucky  has  made  great  ad- 
vances in  prosperity  and  wealth,  building  many  important  rail- 
ways and  beautifying  her  cities.  The  larger  development  of 
her  coal  and  iron  mines,  now  just  beginning,  bids  fair  to  be 
of  vast  value  and  significance.  Of  late  years  there  has 
been  a  series  of  bloody  vendettas  between  families  of  the 
mountaineers  of  Pike,  Rowan  and  other  secluded  counties, 
and  detachments  of  militia  have  been  sent  up  there,  from 
FRANKFORT  :  BooNE  MONUMENT,  time  to  time,  to  restore  a  transient  order.  Assassinations  are 


I  LEXINGTON  :    HENRY  CLAY  MONUMENT. 


THE  STATE   OF  KENTUCKY. 


275 


CUMBERLAND    FALLS. 


The  very  motto  of  his  State  is  a 


of  frequent  occurrence,  and  oftentimes  go  unpunished, 
and  the  officers  of  justice  escape  responsibility. 

The  Name  of  the  State  (according  to  Allen's  Ken- 
tucky} means  The  Dark  and  Bloody  Ground.  Ramsey's 
Tennessee  translates  it  The  Dark  and  Bloody  Land. 
Moulton's  New  York  and  Hayward's  Tennessee  call  it 
The  River  of  Blood.  Johnson  {Indian  Tribes  of  Ohio} 
and  Gallatin  {Indian  Tribes}  believe  it  to  be  a  Shawnee 
word,  meaning  At  the  Head  of  a  River,  referring  to  the 
ancient  migrations  of  the  Shawnees  up  and  down  the 
Kentucky. 

The  Arms  of  Kentucky,  as  ordered  in  1792,  repre- 
sent two  gentlemen  shaking  hands.  It  was  intended  to 
have  had  them  in  hunter's  garb,  with  their  feet  on  the 
edge  of  a  precipice,  but  they  are  now  shown  in  full  dress, 
one  in  the  costume  of  the  last  century,  the  other  mod- 
ern, and  both  standing  in  a  room.  As  James  Lane 
Allen  says  :  "The  Kentuckian  loves  the  human  swarm, 
declaration  of  good-fellowship,  and  the  seal  of  the  Commonwealth  the  act  of  shaking 
hands."  The  motto  is  :  UNITED  WE  STAND,  DIVIDED  WE  FALL. 

The  Governors  of  Kentucky  have  been  Isaac  Shelby,  1792-6;  Jas.  Garrard,  1796- 
1804;  Christopher  Greenup,  1804-8;  Chas.  Scott,  1808-12  ;  Isaac  Shelby,  1812-16  ;  Geo. 
Madison,  1816  ;  Gabriel  Slaughter  (acting),  1816— 20;  John  Adair,  1820-4;  Joseph  Desha, 
1824-8;  Thos.  Metcalfe,  1828-32;  John  Breathitt,  1832-4;  Jas.  T.  Morehead  (acting), 
1834-6;  Jas.  Clark,  1836-7;  Chas.  A.  Wickliffe  (acting),  1837-40;  Robt.  P.  Letcher, 
1840-4;  Wm.  Owsley,  1844-8  ;  John  J.  Crittenden,  1848-50;  John  L.  Helm  (acting), 
Lazarus  W.  Powell,  1851-5;  Chas.  S.  Morehead,  1855-9;  Beriah  Magoffin, 
J.  F.  Robinson,  1861-3  ;  Thos.  E.  Bramlette,  1863-7  ;  John  L.  Helm,  1867  ; 
John  W.  Stevenson,  1867-71  ;  P.  H.  Leslie,  1871-5  ;  Jas.  B.  McCreary,  1875-9;  Luke  p- 
Blackburn,  1879-83  ;  J.  Proctor  Knott,  1883-7  >  Simon  Bolivar  Buckner,  1887-91. 

Descriptive. — Kentucky  is  larger  than  Portugal,  or  Belgium,  Holland  and  Greece 
combined.  Its  domain  exceeds  those  of  the  five  western  States  of  New  England  united. 
An  area  of  3,000  square  miles  lies  in  the  Alleghany  mountain-region,  whose  two  western- 
most ranges  traverse  the  southeastern  corner.  Here  the  Cumberland  Moun- 
tains guard  the  frontiers  of  the  Virginias  for  130  miles,  with  Pine  Mountain 
drawing  its  long,  abrupt  and  wall-like  ridge  parallel  for  many  leagues,  each 
range  being  above  2,ooo  feet  high,  and  running  northeast.  Between  these 
great  mountain-walls  lies  the  heavily-wooded  Cumberland  Valley,  twelve 
miles  wide,  from  whose  green  depths  the  Black  and  Brush  mountains  rise  still 
higher.  It  is  one  of  the  loveliest  valleys  of  the  Alleghany  range,  singularly 
isolated  among  strongly  marked  bordering  mountains.  Cumberland  Gap, 
1,675  feet  above  the  sea,  and  half  a  mile  across,  from  crest  to  crest,  cuts 
through  the  range,  where  Virginia  and  Kentucky  and  Tennessee  join,  and 
gives  passage  to  a  highway.  Pine  Gap  affords  a  similar  route  over  Pine 
Mountain,  and  here  the  Cumberland  River  breaks  through,  960  feet  above 
the  sea.  At  Cumberland  Falls  the  river  plunges  65  feet  over  a  shelving 
cliff,  amid  great  beauty  of  mountain  scenery,  and  near  iron  springs.  Eastern 
Kentucky  is  underlaid  by  fields  of  coal,  and  covered  by  vast  forests  of  white 
oak  and  ash,  hickory  and  chestnut,  hemlock  and  yellow  pine.  These  wild 
'  highlands  are  inhabited  by  a  race  of  strange  mountaineers,  straight  and  angular 
FRANKFORT  •  ^n  ^rame?  with  colorless,  intelligent  features,  sad  in  the  women,  fierce  in  the 
oiERS'  MONUMENT,  men,  in  manner  shy  but  fearless,  and  in  their  lives  listless  and  tranquil. 


1850-1 
1859-61 


276  KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

The  greater  part  of  the  State  is  composed  of  plateaus,  falling  off  toward  the  Mississippi 
and  the  Ohio,  and  cut  by  the  deep  and  abrupt  valleys  of  the  streams,  with  bold  bluffs  and 
rounded  slopes.  In  the  north  is  the  beautiful  rolling  country  of  the  Blue  Grass,  from  whose 
centre,  at  Lexington,  the  land  falls  off  toward  the  mountains  and  towards  the  Mississippi. 
To  the  southwest  lies  10,000  square  miles  of  fertile  country,  famous  for  the  huge  caverns 
which  penetrate  its  limestone,  some  of  them  hiding  rivers,  but  few  of  which  flow  in  day- 
light in  this  region.  The  rains  sink  away  in  gentle  depressions  of  the  ground,  and  enter 
the  underground  streams.  The  cavern-belt  runs  from  Carter  County,  in  the  far  northeast, 
to  the  Ohio  below  Louisville,  including  hundreds  of  grottoes  in  the  subcarboniferous  lime- 
stone, with  many  thousands  of  miles  of  underground  cavern-ways.  Near  Litchfield  there  is 
a  grotto  fourteen  miles  long,  containing  hundreds  of  halls  and  avenues,  and  a  wide  and 
deep  stream  full  of  eyeless  fish. 

*      The  Mammoth  Cave,  near  Green  River,  about  midway  between  Louisville  and  Nash- 
ville, is  one   of   the   most  wonderful    caverns    in    the 
world.      It  was  discovered  in  1809,  by  a  hunter  in  pur- 
4"""     suit  of  a  bear,  and  has  for  many  years  attracted  visitors 


MIDDLESBOROUGH. 


CUMBERLAND   GAP. 


from  all  countries.  Among  the  hidden  bases  of  the  hills,  far  beneath  the  green  forests  of  Ken- 
tucky, the  labyrinth  of  grottoes  winds  away  for  over  200  miles  of  avenues  and  corridors  and 
cloisters,  widening  out  into  great  halls,  with  roofs  of  sparry  stone,  and  leading  to  the  brinks 
of  unfathomable  chasms.  Bayard  Taylor  declared  this  to  be  the  greatest  natural  curiosity 
that  he  had  ever  visited.  Many  miles  of  passages  have  been  eroded,  mainly  by  water 
charged  with  carbonic  acid,  forming  226  avenues,  23  pits,  and  47  domes,  adorned  with 
beautiful  rosettes  and  flowers  of  rock,  and  stalagmites  and  stalactites.  The  first  hall  entered 
is  the  Rotunda,  100  feet  high  and  175  feet  in  diameter;  and  beyond,  the  dark  crypts  wind 
away  in  various  directions,  and  to  scores  of  halls  with  magniloquent  names.  The  guides 
lead  their  charges  to  the  Floating-Cloud  Room,  overarched  by  the  similitude  of  drifting 
clouds  ;  the  Star  Chamber,  with  twinkling  constellations  of  white  limestone  points  overhead  ; 
Gorin's  Dome,  a  sublime  crag  200  feet  high  ;  the  profound  chasm  of  the  Maelstrom  ;  Cleve- 
land's Cabinet,  two  miles  long,  glittering  with  roses  and  tulips  and  daisies  of  alabaster ; 
Martha's  Vineyard,  with  bowers  of  colored  stalactites  in  the  semblance  of  grape-clusters ; 
the  Pass  of  El  Ghor,  winding  for  two  miles  between  wonderful 
limestone  cliffs ;  the  Great  Walk,  paved  with  yellow  sand  and 
roofed  with  white  limestone ;  and  many  other  wonders  and 
mimicries  of  nature.  There  are  deep  and  inky-looking  lakes, 
Lethe,  the  Dead  Sea,  and  others,  some  of  the,m  traversed  by 
boats  ;  and  rivers,  like  the  Styx,  in  places  40  feet  wide  and  30 
feet  deep,  and  Echo  River,  flowing  for  nearly  a  mile  with  a 
width  of  200  feet.  There  are  several  miles  of  navigable  water 
on  these  streams,  in  whose  depths  dwell  strange  eyeless  fish. 
The  darkness  is  solid  and  palpable,  and,  together  with  the  in- 


MAMMOTH    CAVE. 


THE  STATE   OF  KENTUCKY. 


277 


ROCKCA8TLE   SPRINGS. 


tense  silence,  produces  an  abiding  feeling  of  drowsiness.  The  cave  is  reached  by  a  rail- 
way branching  from  the  Louisville  &  Nashville  line  ;  and  near  its  entrance  stands  a  large 
hotel.  Visiting  parties  usually  enter  at  nine  in  the  morning,  with  guides,  and  clad  in  cos- 
tumes adapted  for  rough  work.  The  journey  is  free  from  fatigue,  on  account  of  the  pure 
air  and  even  temperature  ;  and  delicate  women  have  emerged  after  a  walk  of  six  leagues 
without  exhaustion.  The  atmosphere  in  the  cave  is  singularly  pure  and  wholesome,  nearly 
devoid  of  carbonic  acid,  moisture,  ozone  and  organic  matter.  The  temperature,  in  summer 
or  winter,  remains  at  59°.  When  the  outer  air  is  warmer,  a  steady  wind  pours  out  of  the 
cave  ;  when  it  is  cooler,  a  similar  draught  rushes  into  the  dark  depths.  Between  1811  and 
1815  great  quantities  of  saltpetre  were  made  here,  mainly  by  negro  laborers,  who  staid  in- 
side the  cavern  from  one  year's  end  to  another.  In  1843  fifteen  consumptive  persons  went 

into  the  cave  to  dwell,  in  cottages  which  had  been 
erected  for  their  homes  ;  but  the  experiment  resulted 
fatally  for  nearly  all  of  them. 

The  Natural  Bridge  of  Kentucky  rises  thirty  feet 
above  the  glen  beneath,  and  has  a  span  of  200 
feet.  Other  great  arches  of  rock  occur  near 
Hopkinsville,  and  in  Cumberland  County.  Rock- 
castle  County  has  a  wonderful  natural  tun- 
nel 1, 800  feet  long  and  from  ten  to  twenty  feet 
high,  through  which  carts  pass  from  one  side  of 
Big  Hill  .to  the  other,  the  local  oxen  having  be- 
come accustomed  to  the  dark  transit.  In  the 
West,  between  the  Green  and  Cumberland,  are  the  lands  once  called  "barrens,"  but  of 
late  years  proved  to  be  productive.  Here  thousands  of  round-topped  oak-knobs  diversify 
the  surface  of  the  country. 

Kentucky  was  one  of  the  original  forest  States,  and  two-thirds  of  her  surface  remains 
in  woodlands,  yielding  a  valuable  product,  greatly  needed  in  the  adjacent  prairie  regions. 
The  trees  are  oak  and  beech,  blue  ash  and  black  walnut,  maples  and  tulips,  sweet-gums  and 
pines.  .  Seven  thousand  square  miles  of  prairies  found  by  the  pioneers  between  the  Ohio 
and  Tennessee  have  grown  into  deep  forests,  wherever  uncultivated,  owing  to  the  cessation 
of  the  Indian  prairie-fires.  West  of  the  Tennessee  River,  on  the  lowlands  toward  the 
Mississippi,  occur  broad  areas  of  cypress,  pecan,  catalpa  and  cottonwood  trees. 

Vast  herds  of  buffalo  and  elk  once  roamed  over  the  blue-grass  plains,  but  they  have  long 
since  been  exterminated.  The  land  now  has  a  few  deer,  wolves,  and  bears,  and  plenty  of 
raccoons  and  opossums. 

Kentucky  is  peculiarly  blessed  in  its  rivers,  rising  in  the  great  Cumberland  range,  and 
passing  through  narrow  canons  and  deep  glens  for  many  leagues,  overlooked  by  castellated 
and  cavernous  rocks,  and  a  rich  vegetation  of  almost  tropical 
luxuriance.  The  streams  abound  in  edible  fish,  some  of  them 
of  great  size.  Twenty-pound  salmon  and  hundred-pound  catfish 
have  been  caught  here.  The  Mississippi  flows  along  the  west- 
ern frontier  for  eighty  miles,  the  avenue  of  a  mighty  com- 
merce, but  with  no  important  Kentuckian  ports.  The  Ohio 
forms  the  northern  frontier  for  642^  miles,  separating  Ken- 
tucky from  Ohio,  Indiana  and  Illinois.  Its  entire  length  is 
continually  navigated  by  fleets  of  steamboats  and  barges.  At 
low  water  the  Falls  of  the  Ohio,  at  Louisville,  present  a  long 
series  of  tumultuous  rapids,  "the  most  beautiful  and  extensive 
natural  cabinet  of  corals  in  the  world  —  a  reef  of  corals,  of 
exquisite  beauty."  At  high  water  steamboats  run  the  rapids, 
up  and  down.  Upwards  of  5,000  vessels  traverse  the  Louisville  KENTUCKY-RIVER  HIGH  BRIDGE. 


LOUISVILLE  :      KENTUCKY  &  INDIANA    BRIDGE. 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 

and  Portland  Canal  yearly,  bearing  freight  exceeding 
1,200,000  tons;  and  nearly  2,000  vessels  ascend  or  de- 
scend the  open  river  here,  carrying  1,000,000  tons  of 
freight.  The  Big  Sandy  River  separates  Kentucky  from 
West  Virginia,  and  is  navigable  for  steamboats  for  26 
miles,  from  the  Ohio  up  to  Levisa,  where  it  breaks  into  the 
Tug  Fork  (140  miles  long)  and  Levisa  Fork  (189  miles), 
which  have  been  ascended  by  light-draught  steamboats 
as  far  as  Warfield  and  Piketon.  These  streams  traverse 
a  wild  hill-country,  where  the  roads  are  few  and  bad  ;  and  are  much  used  by  push-boats, 
in  which  merchandise  is  transported.  The  Cumberland  River  rises  in  Eastern  Kentucky, 
and  winds  for  700  miles  down  into  Tennessee  and  back  north  through  Western  Kentucky, 
entering  the  Ohio  at  Smithland.  It  is  navigable  all  the  year  as  far  as  Nashville  (192  miles) 
for  light -draught  steamboats,  and  as  far  as  Burnside  and  the  head  of  Smith's  Shoals  (529 
miles)  during  half  the  year.  There  rs  a  large  freight  and  passenger  traffic,  employing 
eight  steamboats  above  Nashville,  and  eight  below,  on  which  grain  and  tobacco,  lumber 
and  merchandise  are  shipped.  The  Government  is  clearing  the  stream  for  navigation  from 
Burnside  to  Pineville,  near  Cumberland  Gap,  and  nearly  800  miles  from  the  Ohio.  The 
Tennessee  River  curves  through  the  western  counties,  with  seventy  miles  of  navigable  waters 
in  the  State,  flowing  out  at  Paducah,  on  the  Ohio.  This  river  may  be  ascended  by  steamers 
through  Tennessee  and  Alabama  to  the  frontiers  of  North  Carolina.  The  Kentucky  flows 
for  many  leagues  through  a  picturesque  gorge  in  the  bird's-eye  limestone,  and  has  fine 
canon  scenery  between  Frankfort  and  Boonesborough.  The  river  may  be  ascended  by 
steamboats  for  98  miles,  to  Oregon.  The  United  States  has  spent  $1,500,000  in  improving 
the  navigation  of  the  Kentucky  by  locks  and  dams,  and  small  steamboats  have  ascended  at 
high  water  as  far  as  Beattyville,  261  miles  from  the  Ohio.  A  scheme  once  under  discussion, 
and  partly  surveyed  by  the  State,  contemplated  the  extension  of  slackwater  navigation  from 
the  upper  Kentucky  by  Goose  and  Richland  creeks  to  the  Cumberland,  passing  Cumberland 
Gap  by  a  mile-long  tunnel,  and  entering  Powell's  River  (of  the  Tennessee  system),  con- 
necting thereafter  with  the  Hiawassee  and  Savannah,  and  so  to  the  sea.  The  Licking  is 
200  miles  long,  with  125  miles  navigable,  to  Falmouth ;  and  the  Green  is  300  miles  long, 
two  thirds  of  it  navigable,  to  Greensburg.  There  are  nearly  a  thousand  miles  of  naviga- 
tion on  the  other  rivers,  which  have  been  extensively  improved  by  the  State  and  National 
Governments,  so  that  rafts  may 
descend  from  the  mountains  on 
the  rain-tides. 

The  mineral  springs  of  Ken- 
tucky have  been  famous  resorts 
for  health-seekers  during  more 
than  half  a  century.  The  Paro- 
quet (Bullitt  County),  Big-Bone 
(  Boone  ),  Olympian  (  Bath  )  and 
Fox  (Fleming)  are  well-known 
saline-sulphur  waters.  Other  lo- 
cally popular  resorts  are  the  Bedford,  Estill,  White- Sulphur,  and  Tar  Springs,  and  Hick- 
man's,  in  Daviess  County ;  and  the  Sebree,  Ohio  and  Rough-Creek  Springs.  The  Blue- 
Lick  Springs,  eight  miles  from  Carlisle,  are  famous  all  over  the  world  for  their  efficacy  in 
curing  diseases  of  the  liver  and  kidneys.  The  water  can  be  smelt  a  mile  away,  and  is 
agitated  continually  by  great  bubbles  of  gas.  It  is  exported  in  large  quantities.  The 
numerous  Grayson  Springs,  the  strongest  warm  and  cold  sulphur  waters  in  America,  flow 
in  a  little  half-acre  glen  five  miles  from  Litchfield.  Eseulapia  Springs,  in  Lewis  County, 
are  white  sulphur  and  chalybeate,  with  a  hotel  and  cottages.  Drennon's  Lick,  in  Henry 


LOUISVILLE  :      MASONIC    WIDOWS'    AND   ORPHANS'    HOME. 


THE  STATE  OF  KENTUCKY. 


279 


LEXINGTON  :     POST-OFFICE. 


County,  is  much  visited  on  account  of  its  black  and  salt  sulphur  waters.  Rockcastle  Springs 
are  amid  the  craggy  highlands  of  Pulaski  County.  Linnietta  Springs,  near  Danville,  include 
white  and  black  sulphur,  salt,  magnesia,  alum  and  iron  waters,  and  are  near  the  Blue  Knobs, 
which  overlook  a  vast  area  of  the  Blue-Grass  region.  Crab  Orchard,  in  Lincoln  County, 
has  valuable  sulphur  and  iron  waters,  and  a  rural  hotel.  The  salt-licks  are  marshy  glens 
containing  water  from  springs  made  saline  by  flowing  through  salt-bearing  sandstone. 
Here  the  wild  animals  used  to  come  to  lick  the  salt,  and  thousands  of  skeletons  of  elephants 
and  musk-oxen,  mastodons  and  mammoths  have  been  found  about  these  primeval  mineral 
springs. 

The  Climate  is  mild  and  healthful,  and  more  equable  than  in  the  neighboring  States. 
The  rainfall  varies  from  45  inches,  on  the  Ohio  River,  to 
60  inches,  at  Cumberland  Gap.  The  salubrity  of  the  air 
appears  in  the  excellence  of  its  domestic  animals,  and  in 
its  men,  who  (with  those  of  Tennessee)  were  the  tallest  and 
heaviest  soldiers  in  the  National  armies,  with  the  largest 
heads  and  chests.  Epidemic  and  miasmatic  diseases  and 
consumption  are  rare,  and  bodily  deformities  almost  un- 
known. 

Farming  was  the  occupation  of  the  Virginians  and 
Marylanders  who  founded  Kentucky,  and  it  continues  to 
be  the  chief  business,  and  has  attained  a  great  diversity  in 
products.  As  early  as  1840,  this  State  led  the  Union  in  wheat  and  hemp;  in  1850,  in  flax 
and  hemp  ;  in  1870  and  1880,  in  hemp  and  tobacco.  Kentucky  has  always  been  the  fore- 
most State  in  the  cultivation  of  hemp,  the  larger  part  of  which  goes  to  the  New-England 
rope  and  cordage  mills.  The  yearly  product  once  passed  35,000  tons,  but  has  now  de- 
clined to  7,000.  The  corn  crop  varies  from  50,000,000  to  90,000,000  bushels  yearly,  and 
comes  largely  from  the  western  counties  —  Henderson,  Union,  Hopkins,  Warren  and 
others.  The  wheat  yield  is  12,000,000  bushels,  valued  at  nearly  $10,000,000.  Christian 
and  Union,  in  the  west,  each  yield  over  500,000  bushels  a  year.  The  yearly  product  of 
oats  has  reached  8,000,000  bushels;  that  of  hay,  410,000  tons.  The  lowlands  between  the 
Tennessee  and  Mississippi,  among  the  forests  of  catalpa,  are  whitened  by  cotton-fields. 

Of  the  1,271,000,000  pounds  of  tobacco  produced  yearly  in  the  world,  the  United  States 
yields  510,000,000  pounds  ;  Turkey  and  Hungary  following  with  120,000,000  each.  The 
taxes  paid  the  American  Government  from  its  manufacture  since  1862  amount  to  $840,- 
000,000,  derived  from  3,400,000  tons  of  chewing  and  smoking  tobacco,  58,000,000,000 
cigars,  and  14,000,000,000  cigarettes.  Kentucky  alone  produces  nearly  two  thirds  of  the 
American  tobacco  crop,  its  output  in  1889  reaching  280,000,000  pounds.  This  is  com- 
posed about  equally  of  the  Burley  and  dark  varieties.  The  first  is  raised  in  the  northern 
and  eastern  counties,  and  used  chiefly  for  chewing  and  smoking,  but  little  of  it  being  ex- 
ported. The  dark  is  raised  altogether  in  the  southern  and  western  counties,  and  much 
the  greater  part  of  it  is  exported.  Spain,  Italy,  France,  England,  Austria,  Germany, 
Mexico,  South  America  and  the  West  Indies 
are  all  large  buyers,  and  make  their  purchases 
through  the  warehouses,  which  receive  the  crops 
directly  from  the  farmers  and  country  dealers. 
In  this  branch  of  the  business  Louisville  is  pre- 
eminent. For  nearly  a  century  she  has  been 
building  and  developing  it,  and  is  to-day  the 
great  tobacco  market  of  the  world.  The  magni- 
tude of  her  sales,  the  great  variety  of  tobacco 
sold,  and  the  facilities  for  receiving  and  shipping, 
have  not  only  attracted  large  local  manufactories,  LEX,NGTON  :  BLUE-GRASS  PASTURES. 


280 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE   UNITED   STATES. 


LOUISVILLE  I    FARMERS'  TOBACCO   WAREHOUSE. 


but  buyers  of  all  kinds  of  tobacco  from  all  parts  of 
the  world.  The  warehouses  here,  fourteen  in  number, 
with  millions  of  capital,  handle  one  third  of  the  to- 
bacco raised  in  America,  the  amount  sold  reaching 
in  a  year  135,000  hogsheads.  The  Kentucky  tobacco 
crops  of  the  past  35  years  have  brought  the  enormous 
sum  of  $300,000,000,  and  Louisville  has  sold  the 
greater  part  of  this,  besides  millions  of  dollars'  worth 
from  adjoining  States. 

This  interesting  department  of  Kentucky  trade 
centres  around  the  Farmers'  Tobacco  Warehouse,  an  immense  and  architectually  beautiful 
six-story  building  on  Main  Street,  Louisville.  This  is  the  largest  and  most  commodious 
structure  of  the  kind  in  America,  and  can  store  at  one  time  6,900  hogsheads.  Tobacco  is 
shipped  here  from  the  largest  handlers.  The  hogsheads  are  taken  by  elevators  to  the  sales- 
room, or  break  floor,  and  then  removed  from  the  tobacco,  which  is  broken  by  stalwart 
negroes  in  several  places,  whence  sample  bundles  are  taken  out  and  placed  outside  the 
hogshead  as  samples.  Then  the  sale  takes  place,  by  public  auction,  in  the  presence  of 
from  75  to  150' buyers,  American  manufacturers,  Mexicans  and  Canadians,  and  the  repre- 
sentatives of  European  government  factories.  The  sales  are  of  daily  occurrence,  and  from 
fifty  to  eighty  hogsheads  are  sold  each  hour,  at  from  $25  to  $400  each.  The  transactions 
are  all  for  cash,  for  in  Kentucky  tobacco  is  king,  and  brings  direct  and  profitable  returns. 

In  1834  the  tobacco  trade  of  Louisville  was  confined  to  a  single  small  warehouse,  selling 
yearly  200  hogsheads,  brought  in  from  the  surrounding  country  by  wagons  and  flat-boats. 
The  Farmers'  Warehouse  opened  in  1869,  and  passed  into  the  hands  of  the  present  company 


tors,  and  sells 
istration  of 
In  1890  the 


in  1880,  since  which  it  has  advanced  beyond  all  its  competi- 
27,000,000  pounds  of  leaf  tobacco  yearly,  under  the  able  admin- 
President  James  Clark  and  Vice- President  Frederick  H.  Wulkop. 
Pan-American  delegates  were  received  at  the  Farmers'   To- 
bacco Warehouse,  whose  great  hall  bore  the  flags  of 
all  their  nations. 

The  world-renowned  Blue-Grass  region  covers 
10,000  square  miles,  and  is  a  high  undulating  plateau, 
of  great  landscape  beauty,  enwalled  by  a  series  of 
abrupt  ridges,  Muldrough's  Hill,  King's  Moun- 
tain, Big  Hill,  and  others.  The  soil  is  black  or 
dark  brown,  and  very  rich,  and  by  rotation  of  i 
crops  and  careful  tillage  a  high  agricultural  de- 
velopment has  been  reached.  Prof.  Agassiz  told 
the  farmers  of  Massachusetts  that  "the  question 
fundamental  to  all  others  in  the  stock  business  is 
the  rock  question. "  The  rock  underlying  this  region  for  1 50  feet  is  a  rotten  blue  fossilifer- 
ous  limestone,  rich  in  phosphate  of  lime,  and  of  inexhaustible  fecundity.  This  crumbling 
rock  falls  to  pieces  on  exposure  to  the  air,  and  thus  continually  enriches  the  growing 
crops  with  the  best  constituents.  Tobacco  and  hemp,  two  crops  requiring  the  richest  and 
strongest  soil,  rise  from  these  fields  in  a  gigantic  growth,  which  remains  unweakened  for 
many  returning  years.  The  native  orchard  grass  (dactylis  glomeratd)  still  grows  in  the  shady 
places,  but  has  been  run  out  of  the  sunlight  spaces  by  the  smooth-stalked  meadow-grass 
(poa  pratensis),  probably  introduced  from  England.  The  latter  has  a  small  blue  flower  ; 
but  in  reality  there  is  no  blue  grass,  and  the  origin  of  the  name  is  a  mystery.  This  strong 
and  hardy  vegetation  hardly  ever  stops  growing,  but  boldly  pushes  up  even  through  the 
snows,  furnishing  permanent  winter  pasturage.  The  grass  is  a  soft-folded  and  fine-textured 
green,  covering  the  pastures  in  spring  and  autumn  like  a  thickly  matted  moss.  The  country 


TOBACCO 

CULTURE. 


THE  STATE   OF  KENTUCKY.  281 

is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  in  the  world,  with  the  exquisite  folds  of  its  graceful  hills,  the 
leafy  roofs  of  the  woodland  pastures,  the  crystalline  and  reposeful  skies,  the  rich  harvest- 
fields,  the  broad,  straight,  white  highways.  It  is  supposed  that  the  hard  limestone  water  of 
this  region  aids  in  the  very  complete  development  of  the  bones  and  bodies  of  the  animals 
grown  here,  not  only  the  wonderful  trotting-horses,  but  also  the  thousands  of  thorough- 
bred cattle,  Cotswold  and  Southdown  sheep,  and  Berkshire  hogs.  It  may  also  account  for 
the  stalwart  men  and  beautiful  women  for  whom  these  counties  are  famous.  The  improve- 
ment of  breeds  of  domestic  animals  has  for  many  years  been  a  subject  of  the  most  careful 
study  and  experiment  in  Kentucky,  until  it  has  become  the  great  American  centre  for 
blooded  stock  of  all  kinds.  The  horses  raised  here,  adding  to  the  fine  endurance  of  their 
Anglo-Virginian  ancestors,  the  fleetness  of  later 
imported  racers,  win  three  fourths  of  the  races  in 
theUnited  States,  and  combine  in  a  remarkable  de- 
degree  speed  and  staying  power.  As  late  as  the 
year  1818,  a  thousand-dollar  bet  was  made  that 
no  horse  could  trot  a  mile  in  three  minutes  ;  and 
when  Boston  Blue  succeeded  in  doing  this,  he  was 
sent  to  Europe  to  be  exhibited  as  a  marvel.  In 
1824  the  record  fell  to  a  mile  in  2.40;  in  1854 
Flora  Temple  cut  it  down  under  2.20 ;  and  Maud 
S.  has  made  her  mile  in  2.oS|.  It  is  the  hope 
and  ambition  of  breeders  to  produce  a  horse  that 

can  trot  a  mile  in  two  minutes,  and  it  has  been     £PR1NG  STATION  :  A.  j.  ALEXANDER -"WOODBURN." 
scientifically  computed  that  a  horse  will  accomplish 
this  before  1900.      It  is  natural,  of  course,  to  look  to  Kentucky  for  that  horse. 

Lexington  is  the  greatest  horse-market  in  the  State,  and  every  spring-time  dealers  in 
fine  horses  assemble  here  from  all  parts  of  the  country,  to  attend  the  annual  auction-sales, 
whose  proceeds  amount  to  several  millions  of  dollars.  The  thorough-bred  trotters  and 
runners  command  high  prices,  and  the  amounts  paid  for  them  run  far  up  into  the  thou- 
sands. Horses  are  sent  from  this  favored  region  to  Australia  and  New  Zealand,  England 
and  France,  Germany  and  Spain.  The  Lexington  region  was  famous  for  its  horses  from 
the  very  first,  and  as  early  as  1787  racing  was  regularly  carried  on  along  the  Commons. 
The  Lexington  Jockey  Club  came  into  existence  in  1809,  and  the  Kentucky  Association  in 
1826.  The  efforts  of  the  last-named  have  been  directed  to  improving  the  horses  of  Ken- 
tucky, especially  in  regard  to  speed  and  beauty.  Fayette  County  is  now  almost  a  solid 
stock-farm.  There  are  thirty  regular  breeding  establishments,  besides  which  nearly  every 
farmer  is  to  some  extent  a  breeder  ;  and  the  environs  of  Lexington  abound  in  park-like 
homesteads,  with  velvety  lawns  of  blue  grass  and  shadowy  clusters  of  overarching  forest- 
trees,  in  whose  shade  the  finest  blooded  horses  in  America  browse  in  content.  Amid  these 
fair  fields,  "beautiful  as  the  vale  of  Tempe  and  fruitful  as  Sicily,"  are  many  scenes  sugges- 
tive of  the  best  rural  counties  of  England. 

Ashland  is  half  a  league  from  the  Lexington  court- 
house, on  the  Richmond  road,  amid  beautiful  grounds 
and  venerable  forest-trees.  The  mansion  was  erected  in 
1857,  by  James  B.  Clay,  on  the  site  of  the  roomy  brick 
house  built  by  Henry  Clay,  his  father  ;  and  preserves  in 
its  interior  the  rich  oaken  panelling  of  the  older  home. 
Here  Webster,  Lafayette,  Monroe,  Van  Buren,  Gen. 
Bertrand,  Lord  Morpeth,  and  many  other  illustrious  men 
have  been  honored  guests.  Henry  Clay  was  one  of  the 
first  to  perceive  and  act  upon  the  adaptability  of  these 
™yal  pastures  of  Kentucky  to  raising  the  best  of  horses, 


282 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 


ASHLAND  :      MAJ.    H.    C.    MCDOWELL'S    PASTURE. 


and  he  imported  a  few  thoroughbreds,  from  which 
are  descended  some  of  the  most  famous  horses  of 
to-day.  His  son,  John  M.  Clay,  devoted  himself 
to  thoroughbred  runners  ;  and  another  son,  James 
B.  Clay,  brought  to  Ashland  the  famous  Mambrino 
Chief,  whose  great  family  is  well-known.  James 
B.  Clay's  widow  sold  Ashland  to  the  citizens  of 
Lexington,  who  gave  it  to  the  State  Agricultural 
College.  In  1881  the  estate  was  bought  by  Major 
H.  C.  McDowell,  who  married  a  grand-daughter  of 
Henry  Clay,  and  (in  company  with  his  son,  Thomas 
Clay  McDowell)  conducts  here  a  noble  manorial  estate  of  440  acres,  and  one  of  the  choicest 
stock-farms  of  the  world.  The  stud  includes  Dictator,  King  Rene  and  Noblesse,  with 
forty  fine  brood-mares.  Dictator,  the  head  of  the  stud,  is  the  sire  of  the  great  trotting 
race-horses,  Jay-Eye-See,  Phallas  and  Director. 

The  Woodburn  estate,  embellished  by  the  opulent  ownership  of  a  century,  is  fifteen 
miles  from  Lexington,  and  near  Spring  Station,  and  covers  3,000  acres  of  the  juiciest  sod 
of  the  Blue-Grass  country.  This  domain  was  bought  of  Gen.  Hugh  Mercer's  heirs,  in 
1790,  by  Robert  Alexander,  a  young  man  of  a  Scottish  family,  who  came  to  America  in 
1785,  and  whose  sister  had  been  married  and  brought  to  America  by  Gen.  Williams,  a 
member  of  Franklin's  embassy.  Four  years  after 
Robert  Alexander's  death,  in  1841,  the  estate 
passed  into  the  hands  of  his  youngest  son  and 
two  daughters,  and  was  subsequently  sold  to  the 
oldest  son,  R.  A.  Alexander,  a  Scottish  laird 
turned  Kentucky  farmer  ;  and  when  he  died,  in 
1867,  it  reverted  to  his  brother,  A.  J.  Alexander. 
For  nearly  a  century  this  farm  has  been  the  scene 
of  many  brilliant  and  successful  experiments  in 
breeding,  in  short-horn  cattle,  South-Down  sheep, 
and  thoroughbred  horses,  which  have  brought  LEXINGTON:  "ASHLAND—MAJ.  MCDOWELL-S  RES,DENCE. 
great  glory  and  wealth  to  Kentucky.  After  the  famous  racer  Lexington  grew  blind,  he 
was  bought  by  R.  A.  Alexander,  for  $15,000,  and  taken  to  Woodburn.  The  purchaser  met 
with  much  ridicule  for  paying  such  a  price,  but  his  adventure  was  justified  by  Lexington's 
famous  sons,  Norfolk,  Harry  Bassett,  Asteroid,  and  Kentucky,  the  last  of  which  was  sold 
for  $40,000.  Lexington,  the  greatest  American  thoroughbred,  was  born  in  1850,  and  died 
in  1875,  Deceiving  a  royal  funeral  and  a  grave  on  one  of  the  fairest  of  Kentucky  hill-tops. 
Subsequently,  his  skeleton  was  set  up  in  the  National  Museum,  at  Washington.  Woodburn 
was  the  home  of  the  dams  of  the  two  fastest  horses  that  ever  lived,  Maud  S.  and  Jay-Eye- 
See,  and  also  the  birth  place  of  Maud  S.,  the  queen  of  trotters,  Nutwood,  Wedgewood, 

and  many  others.  The  live-stock  of  Kentucky  in- 
cludes 372,000  horses,  800,000  cattle,  1,000,000 
sheep,  and  2,000,000  hogs. 

Minerals. — The  coal  product  of  Kentucky  rose 
from  150,000  tons  in  1870  to  nearly  2,000,000  tons 
in  1890.  Louisville  is  the  cheapest  American 
market  for  this  product.  The  Eastern  (or  Ap- 
palachian) coal-fields  cover  9,000  square  miles,  and 
can  be  mined  at  low  cost,  being  above  the  drain- 
age level,  in  veins  from  four  to  eight  feet  thick. 
The  pure  and  valuable  Elkhorn  coking  coal  un- 
ASHLAND;  MAJ.  MCDOWELL'S  STABLES.  derlies  1, 600  square  miles  in  the  southeast.  The 


THE  STATE   OF  KENTUCKY. 


283 


A.    J.  ALEXANDER. 


Western  coal-field  lies  convenient  to  Green  River, 
and  covers  3,888  square  miles.  Many  large  mines 
are  worked  here;  and  the  fine  cannel  coal  of  the 
Breckenridge  district  is  exported  from  Cloverport. 

There  is  a  large  quantity  of  iron  ore  in  Ken- 
tucky, but  the  production  of  pig-iron  averages  little 
over  50,000  tons  a  year,  at  eighteen  blast  furnaces. 
Most  of  the  ore  comes  from  Bath  County.  In 
1889-90  vast  developments  of  coal  and  iron  prop- 
erty were  made  at  Middlesborough,  near  Cumber- 
land Gap.  The  chief  iron  ores  are  the  Clinton  (dyestone)  of  the  East  ;  the  unstratified 
limonites  of  the  subcarboniferous  limestone,  found  in  the  West ;  and  the  carbonites  and 
limonites  of  the  coal-measures,  found  in  both  sections. 

The  black  shales  contain  many  oil-wells  ;  and  in  Cumberland  and  Wayne  counties 
yields  heavy  lubricating  oil.  Natural  gas  has  been  found  in  many  places,  and  turned  to 
economic  uses  in  manufacturing.  Bowling  Green  has  large  quarries  of  oolite  stone.  Litho- 
graphic stone  is  worked  and  dressed  at  Glasgow  Junction  ;  fine  buff  or  cream-colored 
marble,  near  the  Kentucky  River  ;  and  Buena-Vista  sandstone,  in  many  quarries  in  the 
east  and  north.  The  State  also  has  the  white  glass-sand  of  Muldrough's  Hill,  the  fertiliz- 
ing marl  of  Grayson  and  other  counties,  and  fire-clays  and  pottery-clays,  lead  and  zinc, 
limestone  and  gypsum,  and  saltpetre. 

The  Government  was  modelled  after  that  of  Virginia, 
with  a  governor  and  executive  officers  serving  four  years, 
and  a  legislature  of  38  senators  and  100  representatives. 
The  Court  of  Appeals  has  four  judges ;  and  there  are  also 
circuit  and' county  courts.  The  Capitol  occupies  a  pleasant 
site  at  Frankfort.  The  Penitentiary  at  Frankfort  has  over 
800  convicts,  two  thirds  of  them  colored.  It  has  a  branch 
at  Eddyville.  The  House  of  Refuge  is  a  Louisville  munici- 
pal institution.  The  Eastern  Lunatic  Asylum,  at  Lexing- 
A.  j.  ALEXANDER.  ton>  nas  6oo  inmates  ;  the  Central,  at  Anchorage  (near 
Louisville),  has  740  ;  the  Western,  at  Hopkinsville,  has  640.  The  Institution  for  the  Edu- 
cation and  Training  of  Feeble-minded  Children,  at  Frankfort,  has  150.  The  Institution 
for  Deaf  Mutes  is  at  Danville  ;  the  Institution  for  the  Education  of  the  White  and  Colored 
Blind,  at  Louisville.  The  Masonic  Widows'  and  Orphans'  Home  occupies  one  of  the 
largest  buildings  in  Louisville,  and  is  the  only  institution  of  the  kind  in  America,  and 
famous  among  Masons  all  over  the  world. 

Education. — The  State  Agricultural  and  Mechanical  College  and  Agricultural  Experi- 
ment Station  have  several  fine  buildings,  on  a  domain  of  52  acres,  overlooking  Lexington. 
There  are  16  professors  and  300  students,  mainly  Kentuckians,  each  State  representative 
being  allowed  to  send  one  student  free  of  tuition.  This  institution  is  maintained  by  yearly 
appropriations  and  the  Congressional  land-grant,  and  by  a  State  tax  ;  and  teaches  chiefly 
scientific  agriculture,  technology,  and  military 
science. 

The  first  college  west  of  the  Alleghanies  was 
Transylvania  University,  founded  in  1780,  at  Dan- 
ville, and  moved  to  Lexington  in  1788.  It  received 
valuable  grants  from  Virginia,  and  educated  many 
eminent  men.  Exhausted  by  the  civil  war,  in  1865 
its  property  was  conveyed  to  Kentucky  University, 
a  school  founded  by  the  Christian  sect,  at  Harrods- 
burg,  in  1858.  This  institution  occupies  the  old  "WOODBURN":  A.J.ALEXANDER. 


284 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE    UNITED   STATES. 


ABBEY   AT    GETHSEMANE. 


Transylvania  halls,  and  has  200  students  in  its  college 
of  arts,  100  in  its  College  of  the  Bible,  and  400  in  the 
commercial  college.  The  Christian  denomination  also 
conducts  South-Kentucky  College,  at  Hopkinsville,  and 
the  colleges  at  Eminence  and  North  Middletown.  The 
Catholic  Church  owns  St.  Joseph's,  the  oldest  college 
(1819)  in  Kentucky,  at  Bardstown,  and  St.  Mary's  College. 
Georgetown  College  and  Bethel  College  (  at  Russellville) 
are  Baptist ;  and  the  Kentucky  Wesleyan  College  at  Mil- 
lersburg,  is  Methodist.  Central  University  at  Richmond 
and  Centre  College  and  the  Theological  Seminary  at 
Danville  are  Presbyterian.  Ogden  College  is  at  Bowling  Green.  Berea  College,  with  sev- 
eral interesting  buildings  on  Berea  Ridge,  overlooking  the  Blue-Grass  country  and  the 
mountains  around  Boone's  Gap,  was  founded  in  1855,  as  a  school,  and  in  1858  became  a 
college.  The  leaders  were  Free- Soil  men,  and  in  1859  they  were  driven  from  Kentucky, 
and  Berea  remained  closed  until  1865.  It  is  now  largely  filled  with  white  mountaineers  and 
negro  lowlanders,  more  than  half  its  students  being  colored.  There  are  about  400  students 
(two  fifths  being  women),  of  whom  twenty  are  in  the  college  department.  The  Kentucky 
Military  Institute  was  founded  in  1845  by  West-Point  officers,  and  is  at  Franklin  Springs. 
The  buildings  form  a  quadrangle,  amid  pleasant  pastoral  scenery.  The  Louisville  Military 
Academy  occupies  fine  new  buildings,  on  a  domain  of  thirty  acres. 
Louisville  has  four  medical  schools,  with  nearly  800  students  ;  and 
schools  of  dentistry  and  pharmacy.  The  Law  School  of  the  Univer- 
sity of  Louisville  dates  from  1846,  and  has  33  students. 
The  Southern  Baptist  Theological  Seminary  is  the  largest 
divinity  school  in  the  South,  and  occupies  a  handsome  mod- 
ern building.  It  was  opened  at  Greenville  (S.  C.)  in  1859, 
^and  transferred  to  Louisville  in  1877.  There  are  8  instruc- 
tors, and  1 60  students,  from  a  score  of  States,  and  from 
Canada  and  Mexico.  Louisville  has  medical  and  law  schools 
for  colored  people.  The  Polytechnic  School  and  library  at 
Louisville  owns  a  free  library  of  42,000  volumes. 

The  first  newspaper  in  Kentucky  was  the  Kentiicky  Gazette,  whose  career  begun  at  Lex- 
ington in  1787.  The  Farmers'  Library,  the  first  newspaper  in  Louisville,  made  its  earliest 
issues  in  1807  ;  and  the  Gazette  came  in  1808.  In  1810  The  Western  Courier  appeared,  at 
Louisville.  The  Kentucky  press  now  includes  20  daily  newspapers,  1 1  semi-weeklies,  166 
weeklies,  5  semi-monthlies,  and  30  monthlies.  Of  these  15  are  religious,  7  educational,  6 
agricultural,  and  5  scientific  ;  and  others  are  devoted  to  law,  the  labor  cause,  secret  societies 
and  prohibition. 

The  most  powerful  agency  for  wielding,  moulding  and 
reflecting  the  public  opinion  of  Kentucky  and  much  of  the 
South  and  Southwest  is  the  Louisville  Courier -Journal,  a 
sturdy  Democratic,  free-trade,  anti-monopoly  newspaper,  with 
a  very  large  circulation,  and  an  influence  far  out  of  proportion 
even  to  this  circulation.  The '  Journal  \f*&  founded  in  1830; 
the  Courier,  in  1843;  and  the  Democrat,  in  1844;  and  in 
1868  the  three  were  consolidated  into  the  present  Courier- 
Journal,  which  immediately  won  a  place  of  immense  power 
and  influence  throughout  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  Valleys. 
This  achievement  is  largely  due  to  the  brilliant  and  original 
editorials  of  Henry  Watterson,  and  his  intuition  of  genius  and 
inevitable  logic  of  accurate  knowledge.  The  picturesqueness  LOUISVILLE  :  THE  COURIER-JOURNAI 


LOUISVILLE  :     CITY    HALL. 


THE  STATE   OF  KENTUCKY.  285 

and  fervor  of  Mr.  Watterson's  style  adorn  all  subjects  treated,  with  a  certain  Parisian  deli- 
cacy of  touch,  oftentimes  rising  into  tropical  richness  and  strength.  The  Weekly  Courier- 
Journal  is  said  to  have  a  larger  circulation  than  any  other  Democratic  weekly  in  the 
United  States,  or  any  other  Southern  newspaper,  rising  above  100,000  copies  each  issue. 
The  main  owner  and  president  of  the  Courier-Journal  company  is  W.  N.  Haldeman. 

Population.— The  white  population  includes  47,000  Tennesseeans,  30,000  Virginians, 
27,000  Ohioans,  18,000  Indianians,  9,000  North-Carolinians,  6,000  Illinoisans,  5,000  Mis- 
sourians,  2,000  New-Englanders  and  1, 150,000  natives.  There  are  250,000  colored  Ken- 
tuckians  ;  and  60,000  foreigners,  half  from  Germany,  and  the  rest  from  British  soil. 


LOUISVILLE  :     BIRD'S-EYE  VIEW,    LOOKING    UP   THE    OHIO    RIVER. 

Chief  Cities. —  Louisville,  founded  in  1778,  by  George  Rogers  Clark,  and  named  for 
Louis  XVI.  of  France  (then  America's  best  friend),  is  the  metropolis  of  Kentucky  and  the 
Lower  Ohio,  with  great  and  lucrative  manufactories  and  trading  enterprises.  The  Ohio 
descends  here  26  feet  in  two  miles,  and  steamboats  pass  around  these  rapids  by  a  canal, 
built  in  1826-31.  Louisville  had  a  score  of  inhabitants  in  1780,  1,000  in  1810,  70,000  in 
1860  and  above  175,000  in  1890.  Since  the  war,  "the  Falls  City"  has  become  the  chief 
railroad  and  steamboat  gateway  of  the  Southwest ;  and  at  the  same  time  her  annual  product 
of  manufactured  goods  has  risen  from  $15,000,000  to  $66,000,000.  The  converging  rail- 
ways are  united  by  a  belt-line,  and  two  costly  bridges  across  the  Ohio  connect  the  Kentucky 
and  Indiana  systems  of  track.  The  clearing-house  records  show  a  yearly  business  of  above 
$360,000,000.  Louisville  has  six  miles  of  frontage  along  the  Ohio,  above  which  it  rises 
on  a  plateau  seventy  feet  high,  facing  the  picturesque  Indiana  Knobs.  Her  many  leagues  of 
broad  and  well-paved  streets  and  avenues  are  lined  with  pleasant  embowered  homes,  the 
dwelling-places  of  refined  hospitality  and  courtly  grace.  Food  and  fuel,  rents  and  land  are 
cheap  ;  and  people  of  moderate  means  find  here  comfortable  and  pleasant  homes.  The 
admirable  water-supply  comes  from  a  reservoir  on  Crescent  Hill,  and  keeps  the  local  fire- 
losses  very  low.  The  city  contains  150  churches  (including  the  Catholic  and  Episcopal 
Cathedrals),  seven  convents,  and  many  asylums  and  benevolent  institutions.  The  beautiful 
Cave-Hill  Cemetery  is  one  of  the  best  in  the  South.  Foremost  among  the  recent  public  edi- 
fices are  the  Custom  House,  which  cost  $2,500,000,  the  new  City  Hall,  the  ten-story  building 
of  the  Commercial  Club,  and  the  two  fine  railway  stations. 


286 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE    UNITED   STATES. 


LOUISVILLE  !    GALT    HOUSE. 


The  Gait  House  is  one  of  the  most  famous  of  Southern  hotels,  and  has  sheltered  Dick- 
ens, Bancroft  and  all  the  celebrities  visiting  Louisville  for  two  generations  past.  The  older 
tavern  stood  on  the  site  of  the  Gait  family  homestead,  until  its  destruction  by  fire,  in  1865  ; 
and  the  present  hotel  was  opened  in  May,  1869,  and  has  since  been  the  favorite  home  for 
travellers  in  the  Ohio  Valley.  Henry  Whitestone  prepared  the  architectural  plans  for  this 

perfect  modern  hotel,  selecting  the  Romanesque  style, 
as  best  adapted  to  a  warm  climate,  and  giving  the 
structure  spacious  and  noble  corridors,  lofty  ceilings, 
and  large  rooms.  The  promise  held  forth  by  the  fine 
exterior  is  fulfilled  by  the  imposing  effects  of  the  public 
apartments  and  the  studied  unity  of  arrangement  and 
effect  throughout.  The  dignity  and  simplicity  of  this 
immense  building,  and  its  exceeding  comfort  as  a  rest- 
ing-place for  travellers,  make  the  Gait  House  among  the 
pleasant  possessions  of  thriving  Louisville. 

Frankfort,  the  capital,  is  on  the  Kentucky  River,  and 
has  a  large  lumber  trade.  Daniel  Boone  is  buried  here. 
Maysville,  founded  in  1787,  and  long  famous  among  the  borderers  as  "Limestone  Old 
Fort,"  is  a  handsome  city  nestling  among  the  hills  on  the  Ohio  River.  Harrodsburg  is 
the  oldest  town  in  Kentucky,  christened  amid  the  bloodshed  of  long  Indian  wars.  New- 
port and  Covington,  opposite  Cincinnati,  have  large  factories.  Paducah  maintains  an  im- 
portant trade  on  the  Ohio,  and  is  the  converging  point  of  several  railways,  and  the  principal 
market-town  of  Western  Kentucky.  Hickman  and  Columbus  are  the  chief  Mississippi- 
River  ports ;  and  at  the  latter  (once  celebrated  as  a  fortress),  transfer  ferry-boats  carry  trains 
across,  and  so  unite  the  railway  systems.  The  metropolis  of  the  Blue-Grass  country  was 
founded  in  the  year  of  the  battle  of  Lexington,  and  its  settlers  gave  it  the  name  of  the 
heroic  Massachusetts  village.  It  is  a  proud  little  city,  with  a  large  trade  and  extensive 
live-stock  interests.  Cynthiana  (named  for  Cynthia  and  Anna,  the  daughters  of  its  founder, 
Robert  Harrison)  marks  the  beginning  of  the  Blue-Grass  country,  on  the  north,  and  has 
several  famous  breeding-farms  in  its  vicinity.  The  wealthy  and  attractive  little  city  of 
Paris  is  also  surrounded  by  the  paddocks  of  famous  racers.  Mount  Sterling  is  the  gateway 
to  the  mountains. 

The  Railroads  of  Kentucky  have  cost  $100,000,000.  The  Lexington  &  Ohio,  the 
first  railway  in  the  West,  was  begun  in  1831  and  opened  in  1835,  fr°m  Lexington  to  Frank- 
fort, having  been  built  at  a  cost  of  $1,000,000,  largely  with  Lexington  capital.  It  had  flat 
rails  laid  on  stone  sleepers.  This  pioneer  line  was  extended  to  Louisville  in  1847,  and  su^' 
sequently  to  Cincinnati.  The  Louisville  &  Nashville  Railroad  owns  over  750  miles  of  track 
in  Kentucky,  and  nearly  2,000  miles  in  adjacent  States.  The  original  stem  line  from 
Louisville  to  Nashville  was  built  in  1851-9.  Another  great  route  leads  from  St.  Louis 
southeast  to  Evansville,  crossing  into  Kentucky  at  Henderson,  and  running  to  Nashville, 
318  miles  in  all.  The  Chesapeake  &  Ohio  Rail- 
way runs  from  Old  Point  Comfort  and  Newport 
News  west  across  the  Virginias  to  Huntington 
(494  miles),  and  thence  along  the  Kentucky 
shore  of  the  Ohio  River  to  Maysville  and  Cin- 
cinnati (161  miles).  The  great  iron  bridge  of 
the  Kentucky  Central,  from  Cincinnati  to  Cov- 
ington, was  built  in  1887-8,  at  a  cost  of  $5,000,- 
ooo.  The  Cincinnati,  New-Orleans  &  Texas 
Pacific  line  (the  famous  Cincinnati  Southern) 
runs  south  from  Cincinnati  through  the  Blue- 
Grass  country,  and  across  the  grand  Cumberland 


THE  STATE   OF  KENTUCKY.  287 

plateau  of  Tennessee.  It  has  198  miles  in  Kentucky,  and  transports  vast  quantities  of 
wheat  to  the  Gulf  States.  "This  audacious  road"  (as  Edward  Atkinson  calls  it)  was 
built  by  the  city  of  Cincinnati  (in  1872-8),  at  a  cost  of  $21,000,000.  High  Bridge,  over 
the  Kentucky  River,  is  the  loftiest  pier  bridge  ever  built,  being  375  feet  above  low  water. 
The  Kentucky  and  Indiana  Bridge,  from  Louisville  to  New  Albany,  was  built  in  1882-6,  at 
a  cost  of  $i,  500,000,  and  has  seven  piers  of  magnificent  limestone  masonry  (and  two  of  iron), 
170  feet  high.  It  is  a  railway,  carriage  and  foot  bridge.  The  Louisville  Bridge,  built  in 
1868-72,  at  a  cost  exceeding  $2,000,000,  has  27  iron  spans,  on  limestone  piers. 

The  great  Kentucky- River  Bridge,  remarkable  for  its  skillful  engineering  devices,  was 
built  by  the  Edge  Moor  Bridge  Company  of  Wilmington  (Del.). 

Finance. — The  banking  system  of  Kentucky  was  founded  in  1802,  when  a  com- 
pany received  a  charter  to  insure  boats  bound  for  the  Spanish 
towns  in  Louisiana,  with  permission  also  to  issue  transfer- 
able notes.  The  Bank  of  Kentucky  obtained  a  charter  in 
1804,  with  a  capital  of  $1,000,000.  In  1818  the  legislature 
chartered  forty-six  new  banks,  with  an  aggregate  capital  of 
$8,720,000,  but  these  were  nearly  all  wrecked  within  the  year. 
In  1820  the  Bank  of  the  Commonwealth  was  formed,  under 
State  auspices  ;  and  it  captured  the  Bank  of  Kentucky.  When 
President  Jackson  vetoed  the  United-States  Bank  bill,  in  1834, 
the  legislature  endeavored  to  replace  its  paper  by  re-chartering 
the  Bank  of  Kentucky,  and  creating  the  Bank  of  Louisville 
CKY<  and  the  Northern  Bank  of  Kentucky,  with  a  total  capital  of 

$13,000,000.  At  the  closing  of  the  branch  of  the  Bank  of  the  United  States,  at  Louis- 
ville, the  Bank  of  Kentucky  purchased  its  building,  which  it  still  occupies.  This  was  a 
magnificent  structure  for  its  day,  and  even  now,  though  plain  in  outward  appearance,  its 
internal  arrangements  are  not  surpassed  by  those  of  any  modern  bank.  Since  the  close  of 
the  bankrupt  period  of  1837-42  the  local  banks  have  been  singularly  efficient,  domestic 
in  system,  honest  in  management,  wisely  supervised  and  in  part  controlled  by  the  State, 
standing  as  the  ever-ready  supports  of  business,  and  giving  the  people  (until  the  Govern- 
ment taxed  their  circulation  out  of  existence)  the  best  currency  west  of  the  Alleghany 
Mountains.  In  1861  the  Bank  of  Kentucky  had  eight  branches  in  the  State.  The  perils 
and  losses  incident  to  the  war  rendered  it  imperative  upon  the  bank  to  reduce  its  circula- 
tion, and  to  withdraw  all  of  its  branches,  except  the  one  at  the  capital  of  the  State,  which 
is  now  in  operation.  All  the  older  banks  weathered  the  storm  of  1857,  and  maintained 
specie  payments,  but  called  in  much  of  their  paper,  the  remainder  of  which  became  the 
standard  for  the  Ohio  Valley.  In  1859  their  circulation  reached  $14,000,000,  and  their 
good  credit  enabled  them  to  withstand  the  extreme 
adversities  of  the  civil  war.  The  venerable  and  historic 
Bank  of  Kentucky  ranks  as  one  of  the  strongest  finan- 
cial institutions  in  the  United  States,  and  has  no  rival  in 
the  great  South.  With  a  paid-in  capital  of  $1,645,100, 
and  a  surplus  of  over  $1,000,000,  this  conservative 
(yet  enterprising)  corporation  under  the  presidency  of 
Thomas  L.  Barret,  is  a  great  factor  in  the  business,  not 
only  of  Louisville  but  of  the  State  of  Kentucky. 

As  to  the  finances  of  the  State,  there  are  but  few 
commonwealths  in  the  Union  that  can  have  more  cash 
in  the  treasury  than  the  amount  of  the  bonds  and 
floating  debts  combined.  Yet  this  was  the  condition 
of  Kentucky  in  1880  and  in  1890;  and  indicates  the 
general  thrift  of  the  Commonwealth.  LOUISVILLE  :  UNITED-STATES  CUSTOM  HOUSE. 


288 


KING^S  HANDBOOK   OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


LOUISVILLE  :     SOUTHERN    BAPTIST 
THEOLOGICAL    SEMINARY. 


Religion. —  One  of  the  largest  religious  sects  in  Ken- 
tucky is  that  of  the  Disciples  of  Christ,  or  Christians, 
frequently  called  Campbellites,  avoiding  creeds  and  dog- 
mas, and  striving  to  unite  all  Christians  with  no  other 
term  of  religious  communion  except  faith  in  the  Lord 
Jesus  Christ  and  obedience  to  His  laws.  Alexander 
Campbell,  a  young  Scotch-Irishman,  began  to  preach  this 
doctrine  in  1810,  and  continued  until  his  death,  in  1866, 
with  great  learning  and  eloquence,  advocating  a  return  to  apostolic  simplicity,  throughout 
West  Virginia,  Kentucky  and  other  interior  States.  The  communion  thus  founded  increases 
mightily.  It  has  6, 500  churches  and  650,000  communicants.  President  Garfield  was  a  Disciple. 
Another  interesting  religious  outgrowth  of  this  region  is  the  Cumberland  Presbyterian 
Church,  now  one  of  the  great  denominations  of  America.  About  the  year  1800  the  Cum- 
berland country,  then  recently  settled  by  Virginians  and  Carolinians,  was  over-swept  by  a 
fervid  revival  of  religion.  The  conservative  element  in  the  Presbyterian  Church  deplored 
this  spiritual  awakening,  but  the  Cumberland  Presbyterian  favored  it,  and  even  allowed 
theological  candidates  to  adopt  the  Confession  of  Faith  with  reservations  (especially  as  to 
decrees  and  election),  and  to  become  preachers  without  having  had  classical  educations. 
The  Synod  of  Kentucky  dissolved  Cumberland  Presbytery,  and  cut  off  its  dissenting  mem- 
bers;  and  these  latter  in  1810  formed  the  independent  Cumberland  Presbytery,  out  of 
which  has  grown  the  present  powerful  denomination.  Among  its  beliefs  are  these  :  There 
are  no  eternal  reprobates.  Christ  died  for  all  mankind.  All  dying  infants  are  saved.  The 
Holy  Spirit  acts  on  the  world.  These  are  very  liberal  principles,  and  have  attracted  many 
adherents,  the  Cumberland  Presbyterians  now  numbering  173,000  communicants,  with  six 
colleges  and  efficient  home  and  Japanese  missions. 

Kentucky  has  been  hallowed  by  generations  of  Catholic  missions,  ever  since  1811,  when 
the  Church  founded  among  the  Maryland  colonists  at  Bardstown  the  first  bishopric  of  the 
West,  with  spiritual  authority  reaching  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific.  Many  priests  and 
monks  fled  from  France  to  these  peaceful  solitudes  during  the  French  Revolution.  In  1849 
a  band  of  forty-five  monks  from  the  Abbey  of  La  Melleraye  founded  a  Trappist  Abbey  at 
Gethsemane,  sixty  miles  from  Louisville,  and  their  great  stone  buildings  and  chapels  still 
stand,  in  a  rich  domain  of  700  acres,  and  give  shelter  to  a  band  of  silent,  laborious  and 
prayerful  monks.  No  Americans  have  entered  this  austere  brotherhood.  The  first  physician 
and  the  first  schoolmaster  in  Kentucky  were  Catholics.  The  sisterhood  at  Loretto  was 
founded  in  1812,  by  Father  Rininck.  The  Catholics  hold  the  greatest  value  in  property. 

The  first  Protestant-Episcopal  confirmation  occurred  at  Lexington  in  1829,  and  in  1832 
the  diocese  of  Kentucky  came  into  being,  under  Bishop  B.  B.  Smith.  The  first  Methodist 
Church  rose  in  1 786,  in  Mason  County,  and  Bishops  Asbury  and  McKendree  were  among  its 
early  leaders.  The  Methodist  have  1,000  churches,  120,000  members,  and  500,000  adherents. 

Manufactures    doubled  between    1860  and     r 
1885,  when  they  numbered  5,219  establishments,     L 
with   a  capital  of   $57,000,000,  and  yearly  pro- 
ducts valued  at  $103,000,000.     Among  the  chief 
items  are  :  Flour,  $16,000,000;  lumber,  $6,000,- 
ooo ;    iron  and    steel,  $18,000,000;    agricultural 
implements,  $3,000,000;  carriages,  $13,000,000; 
and  meat  products,  $6,000,000.     The  oak-forests 
and  stock  farms  of  the  region  have  given  rise  to  a 
large  trade  in  oak-tanned  leather,  for  soles,  har- 
ness and  belting,  and  the  22  Louisville  tanneries  LOUISVILLE  :  WESTERN  CEMENT  WORKS. 
turn  out  this  valuable  commodity  to  the  extent  of  $2,500,000'  a  year.     Louisville  makes 
yearly  40,000  tons  of  cast-iron  gas  and  water  pipes.    The  recent  development  of  iron-making 


THE  STATE   OF  KENTUCKY. 


289 


LOUISVILLE  :    WESTERN    CEMENT   WORKS. 


cities  in  various  parts  of  the  State,  from  Grand 
Rivers  to  Middlesborough,  has  a  tendency  to  in- 
crease the  manufacturing  here,  and  to  awaken  the 
ingenuity  of  the  people  in  many  ways.  The  centre 
of  population  in  the  United  States  falls  in  Kentucky, 
the  meeting-ground  of  the  alertness  of  the  South 
and  the  diligence  of  the  North. 

The  cement-mills  of  Louisville  and  vicinity  pro- 
duce vast  quantities  of  the  best  cement,  which  finds 
a  market  all  over  the  West.  The  manufacture  of 
Louisville  cement  began  in  1829.  Most  of  the  pro- 
duct of  the  then  small  mill  was  used  in  the  construction  of  the  Louisville  and  Portland  Canal, 
where  now,  after  a  period  of  more  than  fifty  years,  and,  notwithstanding  the  rude  process 
and  the  small  quantity  manufactured,  the  cement  is  not  only  in  a  perfect  state  of  preservation, 
but  has  attained  a  degree  of  hardness  that  indicates  its  durability  for  all  time  to  come.  Louis- 
ville cement  has  been  used  in  every  character  of  work  with  marked  success.  Its  strong 
hydraulic  qualities  render  it  particularly  valuable  in  subterraneous  structures.  In  the  con- 
struction of  \vater-works,  sewers  and  bridges,  and  in  concrete  foundations  for  bridges  and 
streets,  it  has  been  used  in  every  State  and  Territory  in  the  West  and  South.  The  consump- 
tion of  Louisville  cement  west  of 
the  Allegheny  Mountains  is  larger 
than  that  of  all  other  varieties 
combined.  All  mills  producing 
standard  brands  of  Louisville  ce- 
ment are  represented  by  the  Wes- 
tern Cement  Association,  whose 
sales  in  1889  were  1,338,464 
barrels.  The  Association  repre- 
sents the  Hulme,  Speed,  Queen- 
City,  Falls-City,  Black-Diamond 
(River),  Black-Diamond  (Rail- 
road), Silver-Creek,  Ohio-Valley, 
and  Eagle  mills. 

An  immense  and  important  Louisville  industry,  called  forth  by  the  needs  of  the  agricul- 
tural communities  of  the  Ohio  Valley  and  the  South,  is  the  Kentucky  Wagon  Manufacturing 
Company's  Works,  the  best-arranged  establishment  for  making  farm-wagons  in  the  world, 
and  with  the  largest  capacity.  The  works  cover  thirty  acres,  and  have  eight  acres  of  roofing, 
and  three  miles  of  railroad,  besides  special  water- works  and  electric  lights.  The  great  object 
of  study  has  been  to  have  the  lumber  come  in  at  one  end,  and  pass  straight  along  until  it 
emerges  at  the  other  end  as  finished  wagons,  without  any  unnecessary  handling.  Black 
hickory  for  axles,  white  oak  for  running  gear,  yellow  poplar  for  sides  and  ends,  and  yellow 
pine  for  wagon  bottoms,  each  leaves  the  lumber  yard  and  passes  forward,  always  under 
close  scrutiny  for  imperfections,  until  finally  the  assembled 
parts  emerge  from  the  paint  shop  in  the  form  of  an  Old- 
Hickory  or  a  Tennessee  wagon,  cheap,  convenient  and 
durable,  and  destined  for  many  years  of  usefulness  on  the 
Reelfoot  lowlands,  or  over  the  Cumberland  hills,  or  in  dis- 
tant States,  whose  farmers  have  long  since  learned  the  merit 
of  these  wagons.  Full  500  men  are  employed  in  this  estab- 
lishment, whose  products  are  widely  diffused  over  the  world. 
Louisville  leads  the  world  in  the  manufacture  of  plows, 
and  has  introduced  her  wares  not  only  into  nearly  every  LOUISVILLE  :  COURT-HOUSE 


LOUISVILLE  :     KENTUCKY   WAGON    MANUFACTURING    CO.'S   WORKS. 


290 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE   UNITED  STATES. 


LOUISVILLE  :     B.    F.  AVERY    &   SONS'    PLOW   WORKS. 


county  in  the  Union,  but  also  into  Mexico 
and  South  America,  as  well  as  into  Australia 
and  other  remote  countries.  The  business 
was  founded  in  1848  by  B.  F.  Avery,  a  New- 
Yorker,  who  had  been  operating  a  foundry 
in  Virginia  since  1825.  The  B.  F.  Avery 
&  Sons'  plow  works  occupy  six  acres  of 
brick  buildings,  independent  of  outlying 
yards  for  lumber  and  other  supplies ;  and 
give  regular  employment  to  600  men  and 
$1,500,000  of  capital.  The  annual  pro- 
duct exceeds  200,000  plows,  besides  thou- 
sands of  tons  of  blades  and  incidental  plow 
parts.  Fully  143  different  kinds  of  plows  and  cultivators  are  made  here  (not  including  the 
variety  of  sizes  of  each  kind).  The  reputation  of  the  factory  is  especially  high  in  connection 
with  the  peculiar  adaptability  and  superiority  of  Avery  plows  for  cotton,  as  well  as  general 
farming  in  the  Southern  and  Southwestern  States.  It  supplies  equally  well  a  light  garden 
plow,  an  ordinary  plow  for  medium  work,  the  special  plow  for  the  sugar  lands  of  Louisiana 
and  Cuba  ;  another  class  for  the  sticky  black  land  of  Texas,  the  chilled  plow  for  rocky  fields, 
and  the  riding  or  sulky  plow  for  breaking  up  a  prairie,  as  well  as  the  huge  and  powerful  rail- 
road plow,  for  tearing  to  pieces  a  macadamized  street.  Here  the  cast  or  chilled  plows  are 
moulded  and  ground ;  the  steel  plows,  starting  in  as  slabs  of  steel,  are  sheared,  pressed, 
welded  and  fitted  into  shape,  and  then  tempered  and  polished  ;  and  millions  of  feet  of  selected 
white-oak  timber  are  cut,  steamed,  bent  and  finished  into  shape  as  plow  beams  and  handles. 
All  the  iron  and  wooden  parts  of  plows  are  made  here,  high  quality  of  material,  workmanship 
and  finish  being  the  foremost  considerations  ;  and  the  lumber,  pig-iron  and  steel  which  enter 
the  works  leave  in  the  form  of  cultivating  implements  adapted  for  the  soil  of  Kentucky,  or 
Ceylon,  or  Brazil. 

At  Louisville  is  the  main  works  of  the  greatest  hickory  handle  manufacturers  of  the 
world  —  the  Turner,  Day  &  Wool  worth  Manufacturing  Company.  They  make  hickory 
handles  of  all  kinds  for  axes,  adzes,  picks,  sledges,  hatchets,  hammers,  tools,  etc.  These 

are  sold  and  shipped  to  every  State  in  the  Union 
and  to  almost  every  country  on  the  globe.  The 
business  was  founded  in  Connecticut  about  thirty- 
five  years  ago,  afterwards  moved  to  Baltimore, 
and  in  1877  settled  at  Louisville  to  get  as  close 
to  their  timber  as  possible  without  losing  all  the 
advantages  of  a  large  manufacturing  city.  Here 
is  done  chiefly  the  finishing  of  the  handles  made 
from  the  timber  which  has  been  sawed  to  various 
lengths  in  the  rough  at  their  dozen  or  more  mills  in  various  parts  of  Kentucky  and  Ten- 
nessee. Upwards  of  250  men  are  employed  at  Louisville,  100  at  their  factory  at  Bowling 
Green  and  about  175  at  the  saw-mills,  giving  a  total  force  of  about  500  men.  The  uses  of 
hickory  handles  is  quite  large,  and  the  many  patterns  of  each  kind  "are  numerous.  For 
instance,  there  are  nearly  100  different  patterns  of  axe  handles.  The  capital  of  the  Turner, 
Day  &  Woolworth  Manufacturing  Company  is  $400,000;  but  this  only  vaguely  represents 
the  value  of  the  properties. 

Kentucky  whisky  properly  made  and  aged  has  given  this  State  the  chief  markets  of  all 
the  Union  for  the  sale  of  her  famous  product.  Its  manufacture  and  storage  constitute  one 
of  the  leading  industries  of  Kentucky.  The  capital  invested  reaches  far  into  the  millions, 
and  the  product  carries  $15,000,000  yearly  into  the  Federal  Treasury.  All  whisky  is  made 
from  grain  —  usually  from  corn,  rye  and  malt  —  the  latter  indispensable  to  a  certain  extent. 


LOUISVILLE  :     TURNER,   DAY    &    WOOLWORTH. 


THE  STATE  OF  KENTUCKY. 


291 


HENDERSON    BRIDGE. 


The  grain  is  reduced  to  meal,  which  is  scalded  in  order  to  break  up  the  starch-cells  and 
liberate  the  starch,  to  be  converted  into  grape-sugar  by  the  diastase  of  the  malt.  The 
whole  mass  then  goes  into  a  fermenter,  and  from  the  presence  of  yeast  undergoes  the 
vinous  fermentation,  which  by  obscure  processes  produces  a  variety  of  new  compounds, 
alcohol  and  carbonic-acid  gas,  and  a  number  of  oils  and  acids  in  limited  quantities.  The 
carbonic-acid  gas  escapes ;  and  the  whisky,  with  or  without  the  oils  or  other  products,  is 
separated  from  the  residual  by  distillation.  The  generic  term  whisky  embraces  several 
species  known  as  spirits,  continuous,  Bourbon  and  rye.  Bourbon,  the  term  used  generally 

to  designate  Kentucky  whisky,  is  again  subdivided  into 
sweet  and  sour  mash.  Spirits  is  the  product  of  distilla- 
tion so  conducted  as  to  take  out  everything  except  the 
water  and  alcohol.  This  compound  is  fixed,  and  re- 
mains the  same  at  the  end  of  three  years  as  when 
first  made.  It  has  a  sweetish,  pungent,  alcoholic  taste, 
without  any  aroma  or  bouquet,  and  without  any  agree- 
able flavor.  It  forms  the  base  of  all  compounded  whisky 
—  the  word  "compound"  meaning  a  mixture  of  spirits 
and  Bourbon  or  rye  whisky.  The  term  Bourbon  is  ap- 
plied to  Kentucky  whisky  made  from  a  mixture  of 
corn,  rye  and  malt,  of  which  the  corn  constitutes  the 
larger  part.  In  its  distillation  some  of  the  oils  and  acids  are  allowed  to  remain.  These, 
with  age,  undergo  chemical  action,  and  are  converted  into  aromatic  ethers,  pleasant  to  the 
taste  and  agreeable  to  the  stomach.  While  the  principal  product 

of  Kentucky  is  Bour- 
sour   mash,   there 
of    rye    whisky  ~ 
This  species  is  pro- 
and  malt,  and  in 
is  made  and  treated 
It   is   not  easy  to 
localities   produce 

perior  in  quality  to  KENTUCKY-RIVER  BRIDGE. 

duced  in  any  other  locality.  Yet  this  is  known  to  be  «o.  The  generally  accepted  theory 
is  that  vinous  ferment  is  set  up  by  an  organism  or  living  cell,  which  is  most  likely,  to  a 
great  extent,  influenced  by  climate,  water,  air,  and 
soil.  Kentucky  has  been  found  by  long  experience 
(as  shown  by  the  consensus  of  opinion  of  the 
United  States)  to  produce  whisky  of  a  quality 
superior  to  that  which  is  produced  in  any  other 
section.  The  reason  for  this  lies  in  the  fact  that 
Kentucky  is  peculiarly  adapted  to  the  growth  of 
that  particular  species  of  organism  capable  of 
forming  yeast  of  that  character  which  alone  pro- 
duces whisky  of  the  highest  quality.  This  nat- 
ural advantage  exists  to  a  much  greater  extent 
Kentucky,  and  judging  from  the  experience  of 
State  is  the  most  highly  favored.  Having  the  advantage  of  an  interior  location  in  the 
sections  of  Kentucky  more  or  less  underlaid  with  limestone,  the  quality  of  whisky  produced 
depends  on  the  intelligence  and  skill  applied  to  the  equipment  and  management  of  the 
plant.  Negligence  of  the  conditions  necessary  to  the  propagation  of  the  yeast  cell ;  grain 
of  inferior  quality,  and  warehouses  damp  and  illy  ventilated,  are  more  than  enough  to  undo 
all  that  nature  has  done  for  Kentucky  in  the  preparation  for  making  and  aging  whisky.  No 


bon,  sweet  and 
is  a  large  quantity 
made  annually, 
duced  from  rye 
all  other  respects 
as  the  Bourbon, 
say  why  certain 
certain  liquors  su- 
what  can  be  pro- 


COVINGTON  :   C.  &  O.  BRIDGE  ACROSS  THE   OHIO. 

in   some   than   in   other   sections   of 
the    last   century  the   interior    of   the 


292  KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

,  !  process  has  yet  been  found  which  takes 

the  place  of  time  in  maturing  whisky. 
The  improvement  results  from  the  ac- 
tion of  the  oxygen  of  the  air  on  the 
compounds  produced  by  the  fermenta- 
tion. It  will  thus  be  seen  at  a  glance 
that  the  natural  advantage  which  Ken- 
tucky holds  over  the  rest  of  the  Union 
for  producing  fine  whisky  must  in  its 
application  be  aided  by  a  good  location  ; 

ATHERTON  :    THE    J.   M.  ATHERTON    DISTILLERY.  ,         ,,  r  i  •  r 

by  the  use  ot  pure  water  and  gram  of 

the  best  quality,  mixed  in  proper  proportions ;  by  intelligent  distillation  ;  and  by  storage  for 
aging  in  dry,  clean  warehouses  supplied  with  an  abundance  of  fresh  air,  always  to  be  had  in 
the  country  and  seldom  or  never  to  be  found  in  and  about  the  cities.  New  whisky,  wherever 
made,  is  unfit  for  internal  use.  In  fact,  the  words  Kentucky  whisky  mean  a  whisky  in  which 
age  has  changed  the  original  oils  into  new  compounds  at  once  harmless  and  agreeable. 

The  distilleries  of  The  J.  M.  Atherton  Company  are  near  New  Haven,  in  Nelson  County, 
a  region  that  has  long  been  famous  as  one  of  the  three  or  four  localities  producing  the 
finest  Kentucky  whiskies  ;  the  product  of  each  locality  retaining,  to  a  certain  degree,  its 
own  characteristic  flavor.  The  Atherton  distillery  was  built  here  in  1867,  and  the  Ather- 
ton brand  established  at  that  time.  It  was  a  small  frame  structure,  with  a  capacity  of  ten 
barrels  of  whisky  per  day.  The  Mayfield  distillery  was  built  in  1869.  The  plant  now 
consists  of  three  distilleries,  with  a  daily  mashing  capacity  of  2,200  bushels  of  grain,  pro- 
ducing 225  barrels  of  whisky  ;  ten  warehouses,  having  a  total  storage  capacity  of  over 
100,000  barrels;  cooperage  works  which  can  turn  out  225  barrels  per  day ;  and  extensive 
cattle  barns,  machine  shops,  and  offices.  The  entire  premises  embrace  more  than  forty 
acres,  connected  with  the  Louisville  &  Nashville  Railroad  by  three  miles  of  track  owned 
and  operated  by  The  J.  M.  Atherton  Company.  The  distillery  buildings  and  warehouses 
are  of  brick  ;  the  equipment  is  the  most  improved  modern  machinery  and  distilling  appa- 
ratus ;  and  the  warehouses  are  thoroughly  ventilated  and  heated  by  steam.  Only  the 
highest  grades  of  Kentucky  whiskies  —  Bourbon,  sour-mash  and  rye  —  are  made,  under  the 
brands  "Atherton,"  "Mayfield,"  "Windsor,"  "Clifton,"  "  Carter,"  and  others. 

Another  of  these  world-renowned  distillery  plants  is  that  of  the  "  O.  F.  C."  and  Car- 
lisle Distilleries,  founded  at  Frankfort  in  1870,  and  since  1879  conducted  by  The  E.  H. 
Taylor,  Jr.,  Company.  The  product  is  wholesaled  exclusively  by  The  Geo.  T.  Stagg 
Company.  The  distilleries  cover  twenty  acres,  on  the  Kentucky  River,  with  two  separate 
distillery  buildings,  warehouses,  elevators,  cattle-pens  and  smaller  buildings.  They  are 
acknowledged  to  be,  for  amount  of  daily  mash,  the  best  equipped  and  finest  distilleries  in 
the  world.  Many  men  are  employed  in 
the  cooper  shops  and  in  the  distilleries, 
manufacturing  packages  to  contain  the 
product  arid  aiding  in  the  conversion  of 
corn,  rye  and  malt  into  spirituous  liquors. 
The  special  grades  prepared  here  are 
"O.  F.  C.  Hand-made  Sour-mash"  and 
"  Carlisle  Standard  Sour- mash  "  whiskies, 
both  singled  and  doubled  in  copper. 
Many  veteran  connoisseurs  bear  constant 
witness  to  the  purity  and  excellence  of 
the  brands,  their  rare  flavor  and  healthful 
tonic  benefits.  Only  high  grade  goods  are 
manufactured  at  these  distilleries.  FRANKFORT:  E.  H.  TAYLOR,  JR.,  co.'s"o.  F.  c.»  DISTILLERY. 


.  .  Bilox 

.  .          169 
Frenchmen 

.  .          181 

.  .  708,00 

•  •  726,9 

•  •  939,94 

•  •  454,95 


Settled  at 

Settled  in 

Founded  by  .  .  .  . 
Admitted  as  a  State,  . 
Population,  in  1860,  . 

In  1870 

In  1880 

White 

Colored 

American -born,     . 
Foreign-born,   .     . 
Males,       .... 
Females,  .... 
In  1890  (U.  S.  census), 
Population  to  the  square  mile, 
Voting  Population,      .     .     .     216, 
Vote  for  Harrison  (1888),         30, 
Vote  for  Cleveland  (1888),       85,03 
Net  State  debt,  $12,513,21 

Real  Property,   .     .     .      $149,000,00 


468,75 

47M9 

1,116,82 


$64,000,00 
.       48,72 


i,53 

56 

62  40 


HISTORY. 

Among  the  first  visitors  to 
Louisiana  were  the  Span- 
ish men-at-arms  of  De 
Soto's  expedition,  under 
Narvaez,  who  after  the  death 
of  their  chief,  in  1542,  de- 
scended the  Mississippi  in 
rude  brigantines,  and  went 
out  to  sea.  In  1682  the 

brave  Cavalier  de  La  Salle  floated  down  the  great  river 
from  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony  to  the  Gulf,  and  took  pos- 
session of  the  country  in  the  name  of  France,  erecting 
pillars  on  the  banks  of  the  Mississippi  to  show  that  it  was 
French  territory.  Four  years  later,  La  Salle  came  from 
France  to  occupy  Louisiana,  but  his  fleet  failed  to  find  the 
Mississippi,  and  landed  on  the  Texan  coast,  where  La  Salle 
died,  and  most  of  his  men  starved  to  death.  In  1699 
another  expedition  was  sent  from  France  to  Louisiana,  un- 
der Iberville.  It  landed  at  what  is  now  Ocean  Springs,  Miss- 
issippi, and  established  there  a  settlement,  named  Biloxi. 
Iberville  and  his  brother  Bienville  sailed  up  Lakes  Pont- 
chartrain  and  Maurepas,  and  explored  the  Mississippi  River, 
from  Natchez  to  the  Gulf.  The  first  settlement  in  Louisi- 
ana was  made  by  Iberville,  70  miles  up  the  Mississippi, 
in  1700,  as  a  military  colony,  to  prevent  the  English  from 
ascending  the  river.  Louisiana  was  given  to  Antoine  Crozat 
in  1712,  with  exclusive  control  from  Canada  to  the  Gulf. 
Six  years  later,  Crozat  relinquished  this  vast  but  unprofit- 
able empire,  and  it  passed  into  the  possession  of  the  West- 
ern Company,  organized  by  John  Law.  In  the  same  year, 
Bienville  was  appointed  governor,  and  moved  the  settle- 
ment from  Biloxi.  New  Orleans  was  founded  in  1718, 
with  68  inhabitants,  the  only  other  settlement  in  Louisiana 
being  at  Natchitoches.  The  arrival  of  several  fleets  of 
French  immigrants  increased  the  population;  and  in  1721,  Louisiana  contained  4,820 
whites  and  600  negroes,  and  the  capital  was  moved  to  New  Orleans.  The  next  2O 
years  were  taken  up  in  Indian  wars.  The  French  joined  forces  with  the  Choctaws,  and 


STATISTICS. 


Personal  Property,  . 
Area  (square  miles),  . 
U.  S.  Representatives 
Militia  (Disciplined),  . 

Counties, 

Post-offices,  .  .'  .  . 
Railroads  (miles),  .  . 
Vessels, 

Tonnage,    .... 
Manufactures  (yearly),      $24,205,18 

Operatives, 12,16 

Yearly  Wages,     .     .     .    $4,3$8,& 
Farm  Land  (in  acres),    .       8,273,506 

Farm-Land  Values,      .  $58,989,1 

Farm  Products  (yearly)  $42,883,5: 
Public  Schools,  Average 

Daily  Attendance,  .     .     .       90,55 

Newspapers, 15 

Latitude 8o«t094Qls 

Longitude,      .     .     .  28°56'  to  33°  \l 
TempeYature,      .     .     .     .     i°  to  I 
Mean  Temperature  (New 

Orleans), 6c 

TEN  CHIEF  CITIES  AND    THEIR  PO 
ULATIONS. 


New  Orleans,  . 
Shreveport,  .  . 
Baton  Rouge,  . 
Lake  Charles, 
Plaquemine,  . 
Donaldsonville, 
Monroe,  .  .  . 
New  Iberia,  . 
Natchitoches,  . 
Thibodeaux,  . 


3.o 
3,50 


294 


NEW  ORLEANS:  ANCIENT  COURT-HOUSE. 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED  STATES. 

nearly  annihilated  the  Natchez  tribe,  but  the  Chickasaws 
took  up  the  Natchez  cause,  and  the  French  were,  frequently 
defeated,  even  with  Bienville  in  command.  In  1764  the 
Louisianians  were  notified  that  their  country  had  been  ceded 
to  Spain,  and  the  next  year  Antonio  de  Ulloa  arrived  to  become 
governor.  The  people  were  opposed  to  Spanish  rule,  and 
finally  taking  possession  of  New  Orleans,  they  sent  Ulloa  away 
on  an  outbound  ship,  and  established  a  government  of  their  own, 
sending  delegates  to  France  to  ask  the  King  to  again  occupy 
Louisiana.  Their  request  being  refused,  the  insurgents  contemplated  the  establishment  of  a 
republic  ;  but  in  1769,  Don  Alexander  O'Reilly  arrived  as  the  Spanish  governor,  with  2,600 
troops  and  50  guns.  The  rebellion  was  suppressed,  and  its  leaders  were  shot  on  the  Place 
d'Armes  at  New  Orleans.  At  that  time  the  province  was  defined  as  extending  northward 
to  the  source  of  the  Mississippi,  and  westward  to  the  Pacific  Ocean.  During  the  War  of  the 
Revolution,  the  Spanish  governor,  Galvez,  aided  the  Americans  by  supplying  them  with 
powder,  by  way  of  the  Mississippi;  and  in  1779-80,  he  led  an  army,  largely  of  Louisiana 
Creoles,  against  the  British  in  Florida,  capturing  Baton  Rouge,  Mobile  and  Pensacola,  with 
their  garrisons.  After  the  Revolution,  the  United  States  claimed  and  occupied  the  east 
bank  of  the  Mississippi  down  to  Red  River.  The 
west  bank  remained  in  possession  of  Spain.  East 
of  the  great  river,  the  Spanish  held  the  Island  of 
Orleans,  between  the  Mississippi,  the  lakes  and 
Bayou  Manchac.  The  country  north  of  this,  as  far 
as  the  American  possessions,  was  held  by  England 
as  a  portion  of  West  Florida.  As  the  Mississippi 
Valley  became  more  and  more  favored  by  Ameri- 
can settlers,  the  narrow  policy  of  the  Spaniards  be- 
came offensive  to  the  people  of  the  young  Republic. 
Envoys  of  Spain  endeavored  to  persuade  Kentucky 
and  Tennessee  to  secede  from  the  Union,  and  join  Louisiana ;  but  the  American  political 
leaders  pocketed  their  money  and  gave  them  no  results.  In  1801,  the  great  province  was 
ceded  back  to  France,  but  the  treaty  was  kept  secret.  Napoleon  intended  to  send  hither 
Gen.  Victor  and  25,000  choice  French  troops,  to  firmly  establish  a  noble  New  France  in  the 
west.  But  the  supremacy  of  Great  Britain  on  the  sea  rendered  this  move  impossible,  and 
left  the  country  without  defence.  Unable  to  garrison  the  new  domain,  and  fearing  that 
England  would  seize  it,  Napoleon  made  haste  to  sell  the  province  to  the  United  States, 
receiving  $12,000,000,  over  and  above  which  the  American  Government  bound  itself  to 

.  pay  the  French  Spoliation  claims,  amounting  to  $4,000,000.   The 

Spanish  standard  gave  place  to  the  French  tri-color  in  1803, 
amid  splendid  military  ceremonies ;  and  on  December  i8th,  the 
American  troops,  marching  from  Fort  Adams,  entered  New  Or- 
leans, and  the  Stars  and  Stripes  fluttered  upward  over  the  Place 
d'Armes. 

The  larger  part  of  the  present  Louisiana  was  formed  into 
the  Territory  of  Orleans,  in  1804.  In  1810  the  parishes  east  of 
the  Mississippi,  and  north  of  Bayou  Manchac  (then  held  by 
Spain),  revolted,  and  set  up  "the  republic  of  West  Florida." 
They  asked  for  admission  to  the  Union,  but  met  with  refusal, 
and  Gov.  Claiborne  annexed  the  territory  to  Louisiana.  Late 
in  1814,  Gen.  Pakenham's  British  army  of  14,450  men  landed 
from  Admiral  Cochran's  squadron,  and  advanced  by  Lake  Borgne 
BAYOU.  against  New  Orleans.  After  several  days  of  sharp  fighting,  the 


EADS    JETTIES  :    MOUTH    OF    MISSISSIPPI    RIVER. 


THE  STATE   OF  LOUISIANA. 


295 


PETIT    ANSE. 


invaders  made  a  grand  assault  (January  8,  1815)  on 
Gen.  Jackson's  lines,  defended  by  3,500  Tennessee, 
Kentucky,  and  Louisiana  riflemen,  and  were  repulsed 
with  a  loss  of  3,000  men,  including  three  generals.  A 
few  days  later,  they  took  ship  and  sailed  away. 

A  convention  in  Baton  Rouge,  February  26,  1861, 
voted  in  favor  of  secession  from  the  Union.  Forts 
Jackson,  St.  Philip,  Livingston,  and  Pike  and  the 
United-States  Arsenal  at  Baton  Rouge  had  already 
been  seized.  In  April,  1862,  Farragut  and  47  Ameri- 
can war-vessels,  with  310  guns,  after  a  magnificent 
naval  fight,  sunk  the  Confederate  iron-clads  and  gun- 
boats in  the  Mississippi,  and  ran  past  the  forts,  despite  their  heavy  point-blank  fire.  Gen. 
Butler  soon  followed  with  his  army,  and  New  Orleans,  at  the  mercy  of  Farragut's  guns, 
was  occupied  and  thereafter  held  by  the  Union  troops,  who  also  garrisoned  Baton  Rouge 
and  held  the  riparian  parishes.  Gen.  N.  P.  Banks  took  command  in  December.  In  1864, 
he  advanced  up  the  Red  River  to  attack  Shreveport,  the  Confederate  capital  of  the  State, 
supported  by  Admiral  Porter's  fleet,  but  his  army  was  beaten  at  Mansfield,  and  retreated 
for  many  days,  fighting  all  the  time,  to  and  beyond  Alexandria. 

For  many  years  after  the  military  government  ceased  in  Louisiana,  the  State  was  per- 
turbed by  political  conflicts,  caused  by  the  determined  efforts  of  the  minority  of  white 

Democrats  to  wrest  the  government  from  the  hands 
of  the  Republicans,  numerically  much  stronger,  but 
largely  composed  of  ignorant  negroes. 

The  Population  of  Louisiana  is  singularly  diver- 
sified as  to  language  and  race.  Among  the  negroes 
in  the  southern  parishes,  "gumbo,"  or  so-called 
Creole  French,  is  common ;  and  in  the  prairie  country 
Acadian  or  "Cajun"  French  is  largely  used,  both 
being  corrupt  dialects.  The  Spanish  formerly  spoken 
in  portions  of  St.  Bernard,  Lafourche  and  Iberia  has 
given  way  to  French  or  English,  although  the  people 
retain  their  Spanish  names.  In  the  southwestern 
parishes,  Lafourche,  Terrebonne,  St.  Martin,  St.  Mary's,  Iberia,  Acadia,  Lafayette  and  St. 
Landry,  dwell  the  descendants  of  the  Acadians  who  were  banished  from  Nova  Scotia  in 
1755.  Like  the  French  Canadians,  they  are  a  prolific  race,  and  have  increased  from  7,500 
to  200,000,  constituting  a  large  majority  of  Louisiana's  French-speaking  population.  A 
distinction  is  still  drawn  between  them  and  the  "Creoles,"  the  descendants  of  the  original 
French  settlers,  and  the  large  number  of  people  who  came  to  Louisiana  after  the  San- 
Domingo  massacre  and  the  expulsion  of  the  whites  from  Hayti.  The  parishes  of  St. 
Charles,  St.  James,  St.  John  the  Baptist  and  As- 
cension, formerly  known  as  "The  German  Coast," 
were  settled  by  colonists  from  Alsace.  Their 
descendants  have  become  thoroughly  Creolized, 
although  still  bearing  their  German  names.  The 
Spanish  settlers  were  mainly  Catalans,  and  Is- 
lingues,  as  the  Canary-Islanders  were  called.  The 
latter  constitute  a  majority  of  the  people  in  St.- 
Bernard  parish.  The  Italian  population  has  in- 
creased rapidly  within  20  years.  In  New  Orleans 
alone  they  number  over  20,000  ;  and  abound 
throughout  the  sugar-districts,  where  they  com-  NEW  ORLEANS  :  OLD  GATE— SPANISH  FORT. 


LAKE   CHARLES. 


296 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED  STATES. 


NEW   ORLEANS  I    JACKSON    SQUARE. 


pete  in  plantation  work  with  the  negroes.  The 
cosmopolitan  character  of  the  population  appears 
in  New  Orleans,  where  only  1 8. 2  per  cent,  of  the 
inhabitants  are  of  English  or  American  descent, 
17.4  French,  15.4  German,  13.8  Irish,  7.8  Italian, 
and  2.7  Spanish.  The  dark  races  comprise  the 
remainder,  15  per  cent,  being  negroes  of  pure 
descent  and  9.6  of  mixed  races,  ranging  from 
octoroons  (seven  eighths  white)  to  mulattoes 
(half-breeds).  Among  the  negroes  there  is  a  large 
element  of  Indian  blood,  the  original  Indian  slaves 
having  disappeared  by  intermarriage  with  them.  Besides  these,  there  are  a  number  of 
Malays  (called  in  Louisiana  the  "Manila  men"),  Chinese,  and  Indians  (mostly  of  the 
Choctaw  race).  The  negroes,  who  formerly  constituted  a  large  majority,  are  giving  way 
before  the  greater  prolificness  of  the  Acadians ;  and  in  southern  Louisiana  the  whites  are  in 
a  majority,  whereas,  north  of  Red  River  the  population  is  two  to  one  negro,  and  in  some 
parishes  ten  to  one. 

The  Name  of  Louisiana  was  given  by  La  Salle,  in  honor  of  Louis  XIV.,  King  of 
France,  "Le  Grand  Monarque."  The  popular  name  is  THE  PELICAN  STATE,  derived  from 
the  symbols  on  the  State  arms.  It  is  also  some- 
times called  THE  CREOLE  STATE. 

The  Arms  of  Louisiana  show  a  pelican, 
standing  in  a  protecting  attitude  over  her  nest, 
and  feeding  the  birdlings  with  her  own  blood. 
Above  her  head  are  the  evenly-balanced  scales 
of  Justice,  with  18  stars,  in  a  half  circle.  The 
motto  is  UNION,  JUSTICE  AND  CONFIDENCE. 

The  Governors  of  Louisiana  since  the 
purchase  from  France  have  been  :  Territorial: 
Wm.  C.  C.  Claiborne,  1804-12.  State:  Wm.  C.  C.  Claiborne,  1813-16;  Jas.  Villere, 
1816-20;  Thos.  Boiling  Robertson,  1820-4;  H.  S.  Thibodaux  (acting),  1824;  Henry  Johnson, 
1824-8;  Peter  Derbigny,  1828-9;  A.  Beauvais  (acting),  1829-30;  Jacques  Dupre  (acting), 
1830-1;  Andre  Bienvenu  Roman,  1830-4,  and  1838-41;  Edward  D.  White,  1834-8; 
Alexander  Mouton,  1841-5;  Isaac  Johnson,  1845-50;  Joseph  Walker,  1850-4;  Paul  O. 
Hebert,  1854-8;  Robert  C.  Wickliffe,  1858-60;  Thos.  O.  Moore,  1860-3;  Michael  Hahn 
was  elected  governor  in  1863  over  the  region  under  Federal  control,  while  Henry  W.  Allen 
was  governor  of  the  Confederate  portion ;  Jos.  Madison  Wells, 
1865-7;  B-  F-  Flanders  (military),  1867-8;  Henry  C.  War- 
moth,  1868-72;  Wm.  Pitt  Kellogg  (de  facto\  1872-7;  John 
McEnery  (Democratic  claimant),  1872-7;  Francis  T.  Nicholls, 
1877-80;  Louis  Alfred  Wiltz,  1880-1  ;  Samuel  D.  McEnery, 
1881-8;  and  Francis  T.  Nicholls,  1888-92. 

Descriptive.  —  The  Creole  State  is  280  miles  from  north  to 
south,  and  298  miles  from  east  to  west,  the  bordering  common- 
wealths being  Mississippi,  Arkansas  and  Texas.  The  Louis- 
iana lowlands  cover  20,000  square  miles  of  alluvial  and  swamp 
lands,  and  the  upland  prairies  and  forests  include  25,000  square 
miles.  The  average  elevation  is  75  feet,  with  hils  of  nearly  500 
feet  in  the  north,  whence  the  land  slopes  away  to  the  south 
and  east.  The  Mississippi  flows  down  the  country  on  the  top 
of  a  ridge,  which  it  has  formed  by  its  deposits  of  drift.  Above 
CHALMETTE  ;  BATTLE  MONUMENT.  Baton  Rouge,  the  river  is  bordered  by  bluffs,  which,  at  Port 


NEW    ORLEANS  I    UNITED-STATES    MINT. 


297 


NEW    ORLEANS  :     URSULINE    CONVENT. 


THE  STATE   OF  LOUISIANA. 

Hudson,  reach  100  feet  in  height.  The  alluvial  dis- 
tricts include  the  bottom-lands  of  the  great  rivers,  hav- 
ing a  breadth  of  from  20  to  60  miles  along  the  Mississippi, 
and  from  twelve  to  20  along  the  Red  and  Ouachita  ;  and 
covering  about  one  fourth  of  Louisiana,  with  4,800,000 
acres  of  rich  arable  front  land,  in  high  and  profitable 
cultivation ;  falling  backward  by  long  slopes  into  im- 
mense areas  of  swamps,  adapted  in  the  southern  part  of 
the  State  to  rice-culture.  The  soil  is  black,  dark-red, 
and  reddish-gray,  and  of  incomparable  fertility  and  inexhaustible  depth.  More  than  one 
eighth  of  Louisiana  (4,600,000  acres)  is  included  in  the  Coast  Marsh,  extending  inland  30 
miles,  and  sometimes  overflowed  by  the  Gulf,  after  long-continued  southwestern  winds.  The 
banks  of  the  streams,  and  the  islands  and  chenieres  (oak -groves)  in  the  marsh  are  cultivated. 
Since  1880,  large  tracts  have  been  drained  and  improved,  in  St. -Mary's,  Terrebonne,  Cal- 
casieu,  and  Cameron  Parishes.  Much  of  this  area  rises  but  ten  feet  above  the  water,  and 
the  delta  of  the  Mississippi  is  largely  a  morass,  below  the  level  of  the  river,  a  great  part  of  it 
in  Marais  tremblantes  or  floating  prairie.  A  large  portion  of  the  Coast  Marsh  west  of  the 
delta  is  owned  by  a  syndicate ;  that  on  the  east  is  given  over  to  hunting  and  fishing,  and  a 

number  of  New-Orleans  sportsmen's  clubs  are 
located  there.  The  six  Teche  parishes  were 
truly  called  by  Longfellow  the  "Eden  of  Louis- 
iana," and  cover  an  area  equal  to  that  of  Con- 
necticut, with  exuberantly  fertile  grassy  prai- 
ries, broken  by  silvery  bayous  and  noble 
forests,  and  fanned  by  the  Gulf  breezes.  Here 
the  Teche  winds  through  "the  Sugar-Bowl  of 
Louisiana ; "  and  the  wonderful  prairies  of 
Opelousas  and  Attakapas  run  inland  for  100 
miles.  On  Orange  Island,  in  Iberia,  is  the 
estate  of  Joseph  Jefferson,  with  noble  live-oaks 
and  magnolia  and  orange  groves,  and  5,000 
cattle.  There  are  several  other  similar  islands  — 
Petit  Anse,  Cote  Blanche,  etc.,  which  are  simply  small  hills  rising  out  of  the  swamp. 

In  the  southwest  is  the  land  of  prairies,  covering  2,800,000  acres,  and  traversed  by 
silvery  coulees  and  dense  marais.  The  rich  grasses  of  the  plains  sustain  herds  of  cattle  and 
horses ;  and  large  areas  are  cultivated  for  cotton,  sugar-cane  and  corn.  Calcasieu,  the  chief 
of  the  prairie  parishes,  is  two  thirds  as  large  as  Connecticut,  and  has  lately  received  many 
immigrants  from  the  Western  States. 

More  than  half  of  Louisiana  is  covered  with  the  valuable  and  merchantable  yellow  pines 
of  the  Red-River  uplands  and  the  southeastern  parishes,  nearly  50,000,000,000  feet  being 
reported  as  in  the  forests,  the  largest  in  the  South. 
The  cypress  of  the  Mississippi  and  Atchafalaya 
swamps,  and  the  oaks  of  the  north,  have  consider- 
able commercial  importance.  In  the  south  occur 
numerous  islands  of  live-oaks,  a  wood  so  valuable 
for  ship-building,  that  large  tracts  of  it  were  reserved 
for  the  United-States  Navy  The  mysterious  forests 
of  the  lower  Mississippi  contain  myriads  of  tall 
cypresses,  with  their  silken  foliage,  and  palmettoes, 
with  vivid  green  spears.  Here  and  there  spread 
.broad  cane-brakes,  and  prairies  dotted  with  mag- 
nificent live-oaks  and  magnolias,  rich  in  fragrant  NEW  ORLEANS  :  CATHEDRAL  ST.  LOUIS. 


CHALMETTE  :    NATIONAL   CEMETERY. 


HARVEY  :     THE    LOUISIANA  CYPRESS  LUMBER  CO. 


298  KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE   UNITED   STATES. 

white  blossoms.     Over  the  trees  are  draped  garlands  of  grape-vines  and  ghostly  streamers 
of  gray  Spanish  moss. 

Among  the  largest  lumber  and  shingle  mills  in  the  South  are  those  of  the  Louisiana 
Cypress  Lumber  Company,  Limited,  with  its  offices  at  Harvey  (La.)  and  Chicago  (111.), 

and  its  mills  at  Harvey,  opposite  New  Orleans. 
This  corporation  owns  50,000  acres  of  forest- 
land,  from  which  it  draws  vast  supplies  of  tim- 
ber ;  and  for  the  further  treatment  of  this  product 
the  company  has  shingle  and  saw  mills,  dry-kilns 
and  machine-shops,  and  other  works,  employing 
altogether  nearly  500  men.  The  great  plant  at 
Harvey  is  one  of  the  leading  industries  of  Louis- 
iana. It  is  favorably  located  for  home  and  foreign 
shipments  to  various  countries.  Cypress  is  a  most 
durable  lumber,  and  it  is  a  fortunate  circumstance 
that  Louisiana  has  such  great  areas  of  it,  under 
the  efficient  control  of  a  wealthy  and  energetic 
corporation.  No  other  American  house  handles  such  quantities  of  cypress,  both  in  lumber 
of  all  grades,  and  in  shingles.  Its  capacity  in  shingles  alone  is.  a  million  a  day. 

Among  the  many  departments  of  trade  growing  out  of  the  agricultural  wealth  of  Louis- 
iana and  the  adjacent  States,  one  of  the  most  indispensable  is  that  of  stave-making,  not 
only  for  the  local  products  but  for  certain  foreign  industries  as  well.  A  representative 
house  in  this  line  is  Bobet  Brothers  of  New  Orleans,  whose  manufacture  and  shipment 
of  staves  employ  a  large  capital,  and  many  workmen.  This  strong  and  conservative  firm 
has  the  advantage  of  many  years  of  intimate  ac- 
quaintance with  their  trade,  for  it  was  founded  long 
before  the  Civil  War,  by  J.  S.  Bobet,  whose  sons 
have  succeeded  to  its  ownership.  The  Bobet  oak- 
staves  are  known  everywhere  as  the  best  to  be  ob- 
tained, and  the  firm  consequently  ranks  as  the 
largest  in  its  line  in  Louisiana.  Fully  4,000,000 
oak-staves  have  been  received  from  the  interior 
(mainly  by  river),  by  this  firm,  in  a  single  year  ;  and 
shipped  to  Spain  and  Portugal  and  other  European 
countries,  to  be  made  into  casks  and  barrels  for  NEW  ORLEANS  :  BOBET  BROS.  STAVE  YARDS. 
wines  and  other  liquors.  The  firm  has  large  yards  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  where  their 
staves  are  ranked  up  and  assorted  into  classes,  after  which  they  are  shipped  abroad,  to  be 
worked  up  for  their  various  uses. 

Including  its  bays,  Louisiana  has  a  coast-line  of  1,256  miles  on  the  Gulf;  and  its  Chan- 
deleur  and  other  islands  have  a  thousand  miles  more.  Isle-Au-Breton  Sound  and  Chande- 
leur  Sound  form  good  roadsteads.  The  great  curve  of  coast  from  Atchafalaya  Bay  to  Cat 
Island  is  a  perfect  maze  of  islands  and  peninsulas,  bays  and  bayous,  abounding  in  fish  and 
water-fowl.  The  coast  is  lined  with  land-locked  tidal  bays  and  sounds,  cutting  into  the 
melancholy  swamps.  Among  these  are  Lakes  Borgne,  Pontchartrain,  and  Maurepas,  near 

New  Orleans ;  the  Bays  of  Barrataria,  Timbalier,  Terre- 
bonne,  Caillou,  Atchafalaya,  Cote-Blanche  and  Vermilion, 
west  of  the  Mississippi  delta ;  and  Lake  Calcasieu  and 
Sabine  Lake,  in  the  southwest.  The  bayous  are  secondary 
outlets  of  the  rivers,  and  some  very  sluggish  rivers  are  also 
called  by  this  name.  They  cover  the  alluvial  region  with 
an  intricate  net"  work  of  channels,  valuable  for  navigation 
NEW  ORLEANS;  THE  "FRENCH  MARKET.  and  draining.  The  lakes  on  Red  River  were  mainly  caused 


THE  STATE   OF  LOUISIANA. 


299 


by  the  great  raft,  which  dammed  up 
that  stream  and  caused  it  to  overflow, 
and  since  its  destruction  they  have 
diminished  in  area,  and  some  of  them 
have  become  dry,  the  land  being  culti- 
vated. The  raft  was  an  impassable 
tangle  of  logs  and  other  rubbish,  fill- 
ing the  Red  River  for  35  miles.  It 
was  removed  between  1837  ancl  l&73> 

by  the  herculean  efforts  of  the  United-  LAKE  BORGNE  :  SHELL  BEACH. 

States  Engineers,  and  at  vast  expense.  Lake  Pontchartrain  is  a  land-locked  salt-water 
estuary  just  north  of  New  Orleans,  which  has  canals  leading  to  it,  as  well  as  railroads  to  the 
West  End,  the  seat  of  the  Southern  Yacht-Club  house  and  several  pleasant  hotels  ;  and  to 
Spanish  Fort,  near  the  ruins  of  Fort  St.  Jean,  built  by  Gov.  Carondelet.  Many  narrow  and 
winding  lakes  near  the  Mississippi  and  Red  Rivers  are  ancient  parts  of  these  streams,  cut 
off  by  changes  in  the  channels,  and  silted  up.  Among  these  are  Caddo  and  Sodo,  Bodcan, 
Bistineau  and  Cannisnia.  Lakes  Yatt  and  Catahoula  are  large  bodies  of  water,  farther 
clown  the  Red- River  Valley. 

The  Mississippi  is  one  of  the  great  rivers  of  the  world.  It  has  a  length  of  4,382  miles, 
and  with  its  tributaries  drains  2,455,000  square  miles.  Rising  in  Itasca  Lake,  in  northern 
Minnesota,  it  flows  south  1,330  miles  to  the  confluence  of  the  Missouri  (2,908  miles  long), 
coming  from  Yellowstone  Park  and  the  Rocky  Mountains. 
Its  pellucid  tide  refuses  to  mingle  with  the  turbid  yellow 
Missouri  for  many  miles.  Above  the  union  of  the  streams, 
the  Mississippi  flows  be- 
tween picturesque  high 
bluffs,  and  through  deep 
forests  and  upland  prai- 
ries, but  below  it  enters 
the  wide  alluvial  lowlands,  through  which  the  remainder  of  its  course  is  laid,  turbid,  power- 
ful, marvellously  crooked,  and  with  constantly  changing  channels.  During  the  five  years 
following  1878  the  United-States  Government  paid  out  over. $10,000,000  in  improving  the 
navigation  of  the  river.  Nearing  the  Gulf  after  its  long  journey  from  the  highlands  of 
Minnesota,  the  Mississippi  loses  itself  in  a  maze  of  creeks,  bayous  and  swamps,  covering  a 
low-lying  delta  of  14,000  square  miles,  and  flows  into  the  salty  sea  through  several  out- 
lets, Pass  a  Loutre,  and  the  Northeast,  South,  Southwest  and  other  passes.  For  many 
miles  outside,  the  muddy  river,  discolored  with  finely  comminuted  aluminous  clay,  fails  to 
mingle  with  the  blue  tide  of  the  sea.  Pilot -town,  near  the  mouths  of  the  river,  is  a  settle- 
ment of  pilots,  engaged  in  steering  vessels  through  the  passes.  The  jetties  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Mississippi  were  built  in  1875-9,  bv  Capt  Jas.  B.  Eads,  who  received  something  above 
$5,000,000  for  making  here  a  permanent  channel  30  feet  deep,  where  previously  there  had 
been  but  nine  feet. 

The  South  Pass  runs  southeast 
twelve  miles,  700  feet  wide,  between 
low  and  reedy  banks  of  marsh-mud, 
beyond  which  lie  still  bays.  The  east- 
ern jetty  is  2^  miles  long,  the  western 
jetty  i^  miles,  reaching  out  into  the 
Gulf,  through  the  crest  of  the  bar  which 
lies  off  shore.  The  jetties  consist  of 
mattresses  of  long  willow  rods,  two 
feet  thick  and  100  feet  long,  held  in  NEW  ORLEANS  :  LEVEE,  PICAYUNE  TIER. 


LAKE    PONTCHARTRAIN. 


300 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED  STATES. 


NEW  ORLEANS  \    SUGAR  AND  RICE    EXCHANGE. 


place  by  rubble-stone,  and  protected  at  their  seaward 
ends  by  palmetto  cribs  and  a  capping  of  huge  concrete 
blocks.  These  great  engineering  works  have  made  the 
Mississippi  easily  accessible  for  ocean  steamships  of  the 
first  class;  and  5,ooo-ton  vessels,  each  laden  with  above 
10,000  bales  of  cotton,  pass  safely  out  to  sea. 

The  Mississippi  River  has  585  miles  of  navigable 
water  in  and  along  Louisiana,  and  receives  the  Ouachita 
(navigable  for  218  miles)  and  Red  (510  miles)  Rivers, 
which  are  ascended  by  steamboats  far  up  into  Arkan- 
sas and  Texas.  The  Ouachita  receives  Bayou  Macon  (navigable  for  138  miles),  Bayou 
Boeuf,  and  Bayou  Tensas  (navigable  for  1 12  miles).  Black  River  and  other  streams  in 
northern  Louisiana  are  of  economic  value.  The  Atchafalaya  is  practically  one  of  the  mouths 
of  the  great  river,  running  217  miles  from  the  Mississippi  to  the  Gulf.  Bayou  Lafourche, 
navigable  for  318  miles,  to  Donaldsonville,  on  the  Mississippi,  has  a  commerce  of  $5,000,000 
a  year,  in  sugar,  molasses  and  rice.  The  Bayous  Terrebonne,  Black,  Teche,  Courta- 
bleau,  and  others  have  hundreds  of  miles  of  navigable  water.  East  of  the  Mississippi  are 
the  Amite  (navigable  to  Port  Vincent)  and  Tickfaw,  entering  Lake  Maurepas  ;  the  Tche- 
functa  and  Tangipahoa,  effluents  of  Lake  .  ~  ^H^fj^" 

Pontchartrain ;    and    Pearl    River,    the 
boundary  stream  between  Louisiana  and 
Mississippi,  up  which  small  steamboats 
may   go   for   103  miles.     West   of    the 
Mississippi,  the  Calcasieu  and  other  rivers 
and  bayous  flow  down  out  of  the  prairies 
into  the  salty  lagoons.    The  Sabine  forms 
the  western  frontier.    There  are  valuable  fisheries  in  these 
waters,  the  delicious  pompano  and  Spanish  mackerel  of 
the  Gulf;  the   shrimp  of  Lake   Pontchartrain  and  else- 
where, sent  by  Chinese  merchants  to  the  celestial  colonies 
all  over  the  Republic  ;  the  oysters  of  the  bayous ;  the  sea- 
turtles  of  the  islands ;  and  a  great  variety  of  river-fish,  furnishing  valuable  food-products. 

Louisiana  has  more  inland  navigation  (3,782  miles)  than  any  other  State,  the  lower 
three  fourths  of  its  area  having  no  point  over  20  miles  from  navigable  rivers.  At  high 
water,  the  streams  run  much  above  the  level  of  the  land,  and  are  confined  in  their  channels 
by  dykes,  or  levees,  from  five  to  20  feet  high.  In  order  to  protect  the  lowlands  from  inunda- 
tion, 1, 150  miles  of  these  levees  have  been  built  along  the  Mississippi,  Red,  Black,  Ouachita, 
Atchafalaya,  Lafourche  and  other  streams.  Up  to  1860,  these  works  had  cost  $24,000,000, 
but  during  the  ensuing  dark  years  they  fell  into  ruin,  and  many  of  the  richest  plantations 
were  overspread  by  the  rivers.  Upwards  of  $  i ,  200,  ooo  are  spent  on  the  levees  yearly,  but  even 

this  outlay  does  not  prevent  disastrous  spring  floods,  like 
that  of  1874,  when  30  parishes  were  inundated  ;  or  of 
1882,  resulting  in  a  loss  of  $20,000,000  ;  or  of  1885,  de- 
stroying $7,000,000  worth  of  property;  or  the  terrible 
inundation  of  1890,  which  cost  the  State  $11,000,000. 

Agriculture  yields  above  $50,000,000  a  year  in 
Louisiana,  although  but  a  tenth  of  her  soil  is  under  culti- 
vation. "The  Coast,"  from  New  Orleans  to  Baton 
Rouge,  along  the  Mississippi  is  largely  devoted  to  rice 
and  sugar,  while  the  upper  country  yields  mainly  corn 
and  cotton.  The  State  produces  yearly  15,000,000 
NEW  ORLEANS  :  OLD  COURT  BUILDING.  bushels  of  corn,  and  abundant  crops  of  oats  and  sweet 


GOVERNMENT   EXPERIMENTAL  SUGAR  FARM. 


THE  STATE   OF  LOUISIANA. 


301 


NEW   ORLEANS :     CUSTOM    HOUSE. 


potatoes.  There  are  1,400,000  head  of  live-stock, 
valued  at  $22,000,000.  Southern  Louisiana  pro- 
duces figs  and  bananas,  peaches  and  plums,  quinces 
and  other  fruits  of  value.  The  Mississippi  below 
New  Orleans  (and  especially  for  the  30  miles  of  coast 
above  Fort  Jackson)  is  lined  with  beautiful  orange- 
groves.  The  figs  and  bananas  of  Plaquemines  form 
a  large  crop.  Great  quantities  of  early  vegetables 
are  sent  north  by  fast  freight.  The  famous  jet-black  and  highly  flavored  tobacco  of  St.  - 
James  Parish,  which  is  fermented  in  pots  and  sent  away  in  small  muslin-covered  and  corded 
carrots,  was  named  after  the  Spaniard,  Senor  Perique,  who  settled  here  in  1820,  and  sowed 
Kentucky  and  Virginia  seed. 

The  cultivation  of  rice  has  advanced  mightily  within  20  years,  displacing  sugar  in  some 
sections,  and  being  carried  on  principally  in  Plaquemines,  St.  -Mary's,  Calcasieu  and  other 
parishes,  and  on  the  margins  and  islands  of  the  swamps.  It  varies  from  60,000,000  to 
120,000,000  pounds  a  year.  There  are  1,500  rice-plantations,  with  50,000  persons  engaged, 
and  a  capital  of  $9,000,000.  Rice  is  sown  like  wheat,  on  carefully  prepared  ground,  water 
being  let  in  around  (but  not  over)  it,  as  soon  as  it  is  two  inches  high,  and  drawn  off  when 
the  rice  reaches  1 8  inches.  It  is  harvested  and  threshed  like  wheat.  Cotton  is  one  of  the 
great  crops,  covering  more  than  a  third  of  the  cultivated  ground,  and  yielding  yearly  550,000 
bales.  The  best  grades  are  raised  along  the  Mississippi  alluvial  belt,  above  Red  River. 

Carroll  Parish  produces  more  cotton  (a  bale  per  acre) 
than  any  other  region  in  the  world.  The  cotton-seed- 
oil  business  has  of  late  attained  great  proportions, 
and  New  Orleans  works  up  180,000  tons  of  seed 
yearly.  The  oil  is  largely  used  for  home  consump- 
tion, in  the  manufacture  of  lard,  and  millions  of  gal- 
lons are  exported  yearly  to  Europe,  to  be  returned  to 
America  as  fine  olive-oil.  The  pulp  (or  oil-cake)  is 
used  for  feeding  cattle  and  horses ;  and  from  the  residuum 
the  factories  make  stearine,  glycerine  and  soap.  The  Union 
Oil  Mills  were  among  the  earliest  pioneers  in  the  business. 
They  were  established  in  1855,  but  for  many  years  made 
slow  progress  in  developing  their  industry.  Since  the  war 
GRETNA  :  UNION  COTTON-SEED-OIL  MILL.  success  has  crowned  their  efforts,  with  the  perfecting  of  pro- 
cesses, the  founding  of  a  great  export-trade,  and  the  widening  areas  of  the  use  of  cotton-seed 
cake  for  cattle-feed,  and  for  fertilizing  land.  The  Union  Oil  Mills  are  at  Gretna,  across  the 
river  from  New  Orleans,  and  date  from  the  year  1871.  They  cover  five  acres,  and  employ  200 
workmen.  Their  daily  capacity  is  200  tons  of  seed.  The  offices  of  the  company  are  in  the 
Cotton  Exchange,  at  New  Orleans,  and  in  Providence  (R.  I. )  ;  and  they  control  the  Gretna  and 
Crescent,  Maginnis  (New  Orleans),  Hamilton  (Shreveport),  Monroe  and  Baton-Rouge  crude- 
oil  mills,  and  the  refineries  at  Providence,  Gretna  and  New  Orleans.  This  powerful  com- 
pany is  connected  with  the  American  Cotton-Seed-Oil  Trust,  which  was  organized  to  prevent 
over-production,  and  otherwise  regulate  the  industry. 
The  rapid  and  healthy  advancement  of  trade  in 
the  natural  products  of  Louisiana  has  resulted  in  the 
development  here  of  some  of  the  chief  commission 
merchants  and  factors  in  the  Union.  Among  the 
foremost  of  these  is  the  great  house  of  S.  Gumbel  & 
Co.  (founded  in  1870),  who  rank  as  the  largest  re- 
ceivers of  actual  consignment  cotton  in  New  Orleans, 
handling  sometimes  as  high  as  70,000  bales  in  a  NEW  ORLEANS:  s.  QUMBEL  &  co.  COTTON  PRESS. 


302 


KING'-S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 


single  season.  Avoiding  all  speculative  business, 
this  strong  and  conservative  firm  strictly  confines 
itself  to  the  receipt  and  disposition  of  the  great 
Louisianian  staples,  and  yearly  increases  the 
volume  of  its  business.  Under  the  direction  of 
Isidore  Hechinger,  one  of  the  -partners,  a  vigor- 
ous trade  is  also  carried  on  in  sugar,  molasses  and 
rice,  drawn  from  the  broad  plantations  of  the 
lowlands,  and  shipped  from  New  Orleans  to  a 

hundred  distant  ports.      S.  Gumbel  &  Co.  practi-  SOUTHDOWN  PLANTATION  :  CUTTING  CANE. 

cally  own  and  operate  the  Orleans  Cotton  Press,  the  largest  of  the  many  cotton-compress 
warehouses  in  New  Orleans,  which  were  built  to  accommodate  the  immense  receipts  of  the 
great  staple  of  the  Gulf  States.  In  one  part  of  the  city  there  are  $8,000,000  invested  in 
these  cotton-presses  and  warehouses. 

Sugar-Raising  supports  half  the  population  of  Louisiana,  employing  $90,000,000  tn 
land  and  buildings,  and  yielding  $25,000,000  a  year.  Along  the  thirty  leagues  of  bottom- 
less alluvion,  extending  from  New  Orleans  to  Baton  Rouge,  extends  a  long  succession  of 
sugar  plantations,  before  the  war  the  scene  of  a  patriarchal  and  luxurious  life.  The  illimit- 
able green  sea  of  cane  and  rice-fields  is  broken  only  by  dark  groves  of  live-oaks  and  mag- 
nolias ;  the  broad  and  low  mansions  of  the  planters,  wide  verandaed  and  spacious ;  and 
the  mills  and  stables  and  negroes'  cabins  of  each  little  independent  community.  In  1 86 1 

there  were  1,400  plantations,  occupied  by  150,- 
ooo  people,  and  producing  in  that  year  460,- 
ooo  hogsheads  of  sugar.  Four  years  later  the 
war-devastated  State  yielded  but  10,000  hogs- 
heads. The  crop  of  1890  was  the  largest  since 
the  war,  reaching  330,000  hogsheads  of  sugar 
and  500,000  barrels  of  molasses.  The  product 
is  from  20  to  30  tons  of  cane  an  acre,  90  per 
cent,  being  juice,  of  which  15  per  cent,  is  sugar, 
so  that  each  100  pounds  of  cane  holds  13^ 
SOUTHDOWN  PLANTATION  :  SUGAR-HOUSE.  pounds  of  sugar.  The  act  of  Congress,  passed  in 

1890,  giving  a  bounty  of  from  if  to  2  cents  a  pound  on  all  sugar,  of  a  certain  grade,  pro- 
duced in  this  country  has  had  a  stimulating  effect  on  the  industry. 

Down  near  Houma,  in  the  far-extending  delta  parish  of  Terrebonne,  is  the  great  South- 
down Plantation,  covering  5,000  acres,  formed  by  a  union  of  older  estates,  and  for  many 
years  under  the  direction  of  Henry  C.  Minor,  an  old  and  experienced  sugar-planter,  whose 
father  founded  the  original  Southdown  in  1827.  The  wonderfully  rich  soil  of  this  section 
produces  sugar-cane  of  the  best  quality,  and  in  large  and  profitable  crops.  For  the  manipu- 
lation of  this  valuable  product  Southdown  has  a  costly  and  efficient  sugar-house,  a  refinery 
and  other  needful  adjuncts,  and  employs  150  hands.  The  yearly  product  is  3,000,000 
pounds  of  sugar  and  2,000  barrels  of  molasses, 
from  cane  grown  on  the  estate,  and  through  all 
the  vicissitudes  of  the  sugar  business,  this  plan- 
tation has  never  gone  behind  in  its  operations. 
The  plantation  is  contiguous  to  the  railroad,  and 
the  steamboats  plying  up  and  down  the  winding 
bayous.  The  parish  in  which  Southdown  stands 
was  settled  over  a  century  ago  by  Acadian  ref- 
ugees from  Nova  Scotia,  and  their  descend- 
ants still  inhabit  these  rich  and  beautiful  low- 
lands. SOUTHDOWN  PLANTATION  :  HENRY  C.  MINOR. 


1 


THE  STATE   OF  LOUISIANA. 

Shady- Side  Plantation  is  away  down  in  the 
Delta,  near  Centreville,  in  St. -Mary's  Parish,  and 
covers  7,000  acres  (more  than  a  third  of  which  is 
under  cultivation),  being  a  consolidation  of  four 
oldtime  plantations.  It  is  owned  and  conducted 
by  John  Foos  and  James  W.  Barnett,  two  Ohio 
men,  who  invested  down  here  in  1870,  and  have 
since  established  one  of  the  largest  and  best- 
equipped  sugar  estates  in  the  South.  The  sugar- 
house  at  Shady  Side  is  an  enormous  structure, 
built  in  1889  from  carefully  studied  plans,  fitted 
with  all  the  valuable  machinery  used  in  the  most 
advanced  modern  processes  of  refining,  and  capable  of  a  very  large  output.  It  is  the  largest 
plantation  sugar-house  in  the  Bayou-Teche  country,  and  one  of  the  best  equipped  in  the 
State.  Many  interesting  experiments  have  been  carried  on  at  Shady  Side,  as  to  using 
begasse  to  make  pulp  for  manufacturing  paper,  and  in  other  directions,  applying  the  well- 
known  ability  and  ingenuity 
of  Ohio  men  to  enlarging 
the  resources  of  Louisiana. 
Mr.  Foos  still  retains  his 
home  and  enterprise  in 
Springfield,  Ohio  ;  but  Mr. 
Barnett  moved  down  to  the 
plantation  in  1870,  and  has 
ever  since  devoted  himself 


SHADYSIDE    PLANTATION  :    JAMES   W.    BARNETT. 


FOOS    &    BARNETT'S   SHADYSIDE    PLANTATION,    ON    THE    BAYOU    TECHE. 


SHADYSIDE    PLANTATION  :    CANE-HOUSE. 


with  the  industry  and  business  methods  of  the  North  to  the  utilization  of  the  immensely 

productive  plantations  of  the  South.      In  all  the  surrounding  country  Mr.  Barnett's  name 

is  synonymous  with  good  fellowship,  hospitality 

and  generosity,   combined   with  an  exceptionally 

successful  financial  undertaking. 

The  famous  Calumet  Plantation,  on  the  banks 

of  the  Bayou  Teche,  near  Pattersonville,  in  several 

respects  leads  the  world  of  American  sugar-estates. 

Its   proprietor,    Daniel    Thompson  (a   native   of 

Maine,  and  longtime  a  resident  of  Chicago),  was 

by  some  twelve  years  Louisiana's  pioneer  in  the 

use   of    commercial    fertilizers.      He   was    by    16 

years  the  first  private  individual  in  Louisiana,  and 

probably  by  ten  years  the  first  in   the  world    to 

introduce    the   chemical    laboratory,  for   agricultural    research  upon  a  sugar-cane  estate. 

Wibray  J.  Thompson,  his  son,  was  by  four  years  the  pioneer  of  the  United  States  in  the 

introduction  of  chemical  and  physical  investigations  directly  applied  in  the  actual  conduct 

of  manufacture,  being  for  that  period  the  sole 
scientist  engaged  in  this  field  in  America.  The 
experimentation  with  fertilizers  led  from  the  first 
to  a  practice,  the  wisdom  of  which  subsequent  in- 
vestigations elsewhere  have  confirmed ;  while  those 
in  the  factory  have  produced  practical  industrial 
results,  which  had  been  believed  altogether  im- 
possible. These  gentlemen  are  also  now  the  first 
and  only  private  parties  in  the  world  engaged  in 
the  scientific  development,  by  seed-selection,  of 


CALUMET    PLANTATION  :    SUGAR-HOUSE. 


3°4 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


CALUMET    PLANTATION   :    DANIEL    THOMPSON. 


CALUMET  PLANTATION:  CANE-HOUSE. 


the  sorghum  plant,  by  which,  as  an  auxiliary  crop 
to  tropical  cane,  they  hope  eventually  to  double 
the  period  of  manufacture,  which  does  not  now  ex- 
ceed 60  days  a  year.  Their  success  in  this,  to  date, 
has  been  phenomenal.  The  chemical,  mechanical 
and  financial  controls,  particularly  the  last  two,  are 
without  parallels  for  completeness  and  scientific 
value  in  the  world's  cane-sugar  industry.  The  re- 
sults of  their  work  have  been  published  from  the 
first,  for  the  benefit  of  all  others  engaged  in  sugar 
production,  and  the  plantation  is  known  wherever  sugar  is  made:  The  exceptionally  fine 
record  made  by  Calumet  shows  a  continuous  development  of  product,  and  whereas  in  earlier 
days  from  80  to  no  pounds  of  sugar  were  obtained  from  a  ton  of  cane,  now  200  pounds 
are  extracted.  Most  of  this  advance  has  come 
since  1 880,  and  it  is  expected  that  the  intricate 
experiments  continually  in  progress  here  will 
achieve  still  higher  results.  This  beautiful  and  g 
notable  plantation  covers  6,000  acres,  and  its  man- 
agement combines  Northern  industrial  methods 
and  business  organizations  with  Southern  hospi- 
tality and  sympathy. 

Among  the  Northerners  who  have  become 
identified  with  Louisiana  since  the  close  of  the 
"late  unpleasantness,"  and  have  borne  a  promi- 
nent part  in  building  up  its  industries,  are  the  Ames  family  of  Massachusetts,  so  well  and 
widely  known — Oakes  A.,  Oliver  and  Frank  M.  Ames,  the  heirs  of  Oakes  Ames,  to  whom 
this  country  is  so  much  indebted  for  its  railroad  development.  They  are  the  owners  of 

one  of  the  largest  estates  in  this  land  of  broad 
domains,  covering  13,000  acres,  in  the  Parish  of 
Jefferson,  directly  opposite  the  city  of  New  Or- 
leans, their  property  having  a  river-front  of  two 
miles.  The  domain  includes,  among  others,  the 
South  Side  and  Estelle  Plantations,  formerly  known 
as  the  Millaudon  Plantation.  Their  land  is  traversed 
by  the  Southern  Pacific  and  Texas  &  Pacific  Rail- 
ways, with  a  station  at  Amesville.  They  were 
among  the  first  to  introduce  the  modern  methods 
and  appliances  for  the  cultivation  and  harvesting  of  the  crop,  and  the  equipment  is  among 
the  best  and  most  efficient  in  the  State.  They  have  six  miles  of  permanent  and  portable 
railroad  tracks  ;  and  introduced  the  car  for  handling  sugar-cane,  which  has  come  into 
general  use  in  all  sugar-raising  countries,  and  has  been  of  great  benefit  to  planters.  They 
were  among  the  first  to  use  commercial  fer- 
tilizers, and  to  introduce  methods  by  which 
actual  information  as  to  results  might  be  ob- 
tained. Their  private  or  protection  levee  is  over 
seven  miles  in  extent,  and  by  it  they  were  en- 
abled to  protect  their  cultivated  land  from  the 
overflow  of  1884,  which  was  so  disastrous  in  its 
results.  The  capacity  of  the  sugar-house  (which 
is  in  plain  sight  from  the  city  of  New  Orleans)  is 
from  60,000  to  70,000  pounds  of  sugar  a  day,  or 
about  5,000,000  pounds  during  the  sugar-making  SOUTH-SIDE  PLANTATION  :  FROM  THE  MISSISSIPPI. 


SOUTH-SIDE    AND    ESTELLE    PLANTATIONS  : 
OAKES    A.,    OLIVER     AND    FRANK    M.   AMES. 


SOUTH-SIDE  PLANTATION  :    CUTTING  CANE. 


THE  STATE   OF  LOUISIANA. 

season.     Their   crop   in   1891  exceeds  3,000,000 
pounds,  all  of  which  goes  to  New  Orleans. 

The  Louisiana  Sugar  Refinery  is  the  largest 
in  the  Southern  States,  and  covers  three  entire 
squares  of  ground  on  Custom-House  and  Decatur 
Streets,  New  Orleans.  This  mammoth  establish- 
ment has  the  most  modern  and  ingenious  ma- 
chinery, and  can  turn  out  1,250,000  pounds  of 
sugar  daily.  It  receives  the  plantation  sugars  of 
Louisiana,  Cuba  and  the  Sandwich  Islands,  besides 
large  quantities  of  beet-sugar,  and  produces  there- 
from all  grades  of  refined  sugar  and  syrups,  which  find  a  market  all  over  the  United  States. 
About  750  men  serve  this  corporation,  whose  yearly  pay-roll  exceeds  $350,000.  The  Louis- 
iana Refinery  is  under  the  presidency  of 
John  S.  Wallis,  and  dates  its  origin  from 
the  year  1883.  It  is  one  of  the  command- 
ing industries  of  New  Orleans,  and  its  pro- 
ducts are  unexcelled  for  their  excellence 
and  standard  merit.  The  Planters'  Re- 
finery a  few  years  ago  came  under  the  same 
ownership  as  the  Louisiana  Refinery. 

NEW    ORLEANS  :     LOUISIANA   SUGAR-REFINERY. 

Down  in  the  rich  and  beautiful  Gulf 
parish  of  St.  Mary's,  and  close  to  its 
shire-town,  Franklin,  stand  the  immense 
new  buildings  of  the  Caffery  Central 
Sugar  Refinery,  erected  after  the  designs 
of  Sully  &  Toledano,  the  New-Orleans 
architects,  and  fully  equipped  with  all 
the  modern  machinery  and  inventions 
used  in  the  processes  of  refining  sugar.  NEW  ORLEANS  :  LOUISIANA  SUGAR-REFINERY. 

The  Caffery  plant  has  been  constructed  with  unusual  eare  and  solidity,  and  shows  the  best 
results  of  modern  scientific  processes  as  applied  to  this  important  industry.  The  transporta- 
tion of  the  product  of  the  plantations  to  and  from  the  refinery  is  made  easy  by  spur-tracks 
running  from  the  Morgan  line  of  railway  into  the  works.  The  owner  of  this  notable  new 
enterprise  is  John  A.  Morris,  one  of  the  best-known  of  Louisiana's  millionaires,  who  has 
invested  $600,000  in  this  bold  venture.  The  introduction  of  the  Caffery  Refinery  is 
destined  to  work  a  revolution  in  the  business  throughout  the  Gulf  parishes.  The  cane 
ground' here  is  bought  from  the  small  farmers  in  the  neighborhood  and  along  the  railroad, 

and  the  great  success  of  this  institution  demon- 
strates that  central  sugar-houses  are  desirable,  and 
many  more  will  be  built.  The  capacity  of  the 
plant  is  500  tons  of  cane  a  day.  Thomas  Sully  is 
the  general  manager  of  the  refinery. 

Another  interesting  phase  of  this  business  is 
seen  in  the  case  of  the  men  who  are  at  once  active 
sugar  factors  or  commission  merchants  and  owners 

FRANKLIN  :    CAFFERY  CENTRAL  SUGAR-REFINERY.  Qf    great    plantations>         ForemOSt    among    them    is 

Richard  Milliken,  the  owner  of  several  plantations,  all  of  which  are  large  producers  of 
sugar.  He  has  been  famous  for  many  years  for  his  liberality  in  advancing  money  on  grow- 
ing crops.  His  financial  foundation  was  of  so  solid  a  character  that  even  the  costly  experi- 
ences of  the  bad  seasons  of  187,8-9  and  1882-3  failed  to  shake  his  high  credit;  and  to  this 


NEW    ORLEANS  :     RICHARD    MILLIKEN,    SUGAR    FACTOR. 


306  KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

day  he  has  remained  actively  in  the  field,  in  in- 
timate connection  with  the  foremost  sugar-planters 
of  Louisiana,  and  wielding  a  powerful  influence 
in  the  development  of  this  valuable  industry.  It 
is  said  that  as  a  factor  or  broker  he  has  handled 
more  sugar  than  any  individual  in  the  South.  In 
1840,  after  he  had  been  a  resident  of  New  Or- 
leans for  eight  years,  Mr.  Milliken  became  a  sugar- 
broker,  and  carried  on  this  business  with  remark- 
able success  until  1887.  He  handled  one  third  of 
the  sugar-crop  of  Louisiana.  In  1870  he  became  also  a  sugar-factor,  and  has  since  handled 
one  fifth  of  the  crop,  or  40,000  hogsheads  of  sugar  and  60,000  barrels  of  molasses  yearly. 
In  1872,  Mr.  Milliken  acquired  the  Unity  plantation ;  in  1876,  the  Waterford ;  and  since 
then  the  Fairfield,  Killana  and  Cedar-Grove  estates.  The  Milliken  plantations  employ 
1,000  men,  and  have  a  yearly  product  of  5,000,000  pounds  of  sugar  and  300,000  gallons  of 
molasses. 

Louisiana  is  a  land  of  flowers,  and  the  fragrance  of  orange  blossoms,  delicate  magnolias, 
and  jessamine,  blend  with  the  perfume  of  innumerable  roses,  and  miles  of  wild  flowers  along 
the  alluvial  plains.  The  most  notable  animals  are  the 
panthers  of  the  swamps,  the  black  and  brown  bears  of  the 
uplands,  and  the  great  alligators  of  the  bayous.  Lizards, 
turtles  and  snakes  of  many  kinds  dwell  in  and  near  the 
lowland  waters,  and  here  also  is  a  great  array  of  the  waders, 
ibises,  cranes  and  herons.  Various  eagles  and  many  hawks 
and  gulls,  and  the  patron-bird  of  the  State,  the  pelican,  fly 
over  the  bayous  ;  and  myriads  of  mocking-birds  and  finches, 
cedar-birds  and  orioles  fill  the  air  with  their  songs.  The 
uplands  are  the  home  of  partridges  and  grouse,  pigeons  and 
wild  turkeys. 

The  Climate  varies  greatly,  from  New  Orleans,  with 
its  average  temperature  of  69. 54°,  and  rainfall  of  73  inches, 
to  Shreveport,  with  a  yearly  average  of  64°  and  a  rainfall  of  47  inches.  It  may  be  called 
semi-tropical,  and  is  strongly  modified  by  the  large  lakes  and  rivers  and  the  Gulf-winds. 
Droughts  are  rare  ;  light  frosts  visit  the  sugar-region  but  once  in  three  years ;  and  snow  gets 
to  New  Orleans  but  once  in  ten  years.  The  northern  counties  are  whitened  by  occasional 
snows  and  harsh  northerly  storms,  dropping  the  temperature  to  15°.  The  heavy  mortality  of 
Louisiana  in  old  times  has  visibly  abated  with  the  development  of  sanitary  science.  The  death  - 
rate  of  New  Orleans  was  59  per  thousand  in  1850-60,  40  in  1860-70,  35  in  1870-80,  29  in 
1880-86,  and  is  25  to-day,  nearly  two-thirds  of  the  deaths  being  negroes.  Consumption  causes 
one  seventh  of  the  deaths ;  and  malarial  diseases,  one  fifteenth.  The  saline  and  breezy  air 
of  Louisiana  is  beneficial  for  sufferers  from  rheumatism,  catarrh,  bronchitis  and  consumption. 
The  Government  abides  in  a  group  of  executive  officers,  elected  by  the  people  for  four 

years ;  the  General  Assembly,  made  up  of  36  sena- 
tors, and  from  74  to  98  representatives  ;  the  Supreme 
Court  of  five  judges,  appointed  for  eight  years  ;  and 
judges  of  the  Courts  of  Appeal  and  District  Courts. 
The  District  judges  are  elected,  except  in  New  Or- 
leans, where  they  are  appointed  by  the  governor. 
The  Appeal  judges  are  elected  by  the  Legislature. 
The  parishes  correspond  with  the  counties  in  the 
other  States.  The  Capitol  is  a  picturesque  Eliza- 
bethan building  at  Baton  Rouge,  with  battlemented 


NEW  ORLEANS:    COTTON  EXCHANGE. 


BATON    ROUGE  :     LOUISIANA   STATE   UNIVERSIT' 


THE  STATE   OF  LOUISIANA. 


307 


NEW  ORLEANS  ',  GAYARRE  PLACE. 


towers  and  Gothic  windows.  The  Louisiana  State 
National  Guard  is  organized  in  the  parish  of  Or- 
leans, and  includes  the  First  Brigade.  The  Special 
Militia  Force  of  the  State  covers  the  troops  of  the 
interior  parishes,  four  companies  about  Baton 
Rouge  forming  the  First  Battalion ;  four  in  the 
northern  parishes  forming  the  Second  Battalion ; 
and  several  companies  of  cavalry  and  artillery. 
There  are  also  independent  companies,  one  French, 
two  Italian,  one  colored,  and  the  renowned  Bat- 
talion of  Washington  Artillery. 

The  Penitentiary  at  Baton  Rouge  has  800  con- 
victs (mostly  colored),  and  is  conducted  on  the  lease  system,  the  prisoners  being  set  to 
work  on  the  levees  and  other  public  enterprises.  There  are  Houses  of  Refuge  for  boys  and 
girls,  at  New  Orleans,  the  seat  also  of  the  great  Charity  Hospital,  and  many  other  benevo- 
lent institutions.  The  Insane  Asylum  at  Jackson  has  500  patients ;  and  the  Louisiana  Re- 
treat is  at  New  Orleans.  The  Louisiana  Institution  and  Industrial  Home  for  the  Blind 
and  the  Institution  for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  are  at  Baton  Rouge. 

Education  is  offered  by  the  State  more  freely  than  it  is  accepted  by  the  people. 
Fewer  than  one  fifth  of  the  children  of  proper  age  attend  the  schools.  The  buildings  are 
inferior,  and  instruction  is  given  but  four  months  in  each  year.  As  a  result,  the  illiterates 
include  H2,oooamong  the  voting  men  alone.  Four  fifths  of  the  illiterates  are  negroes. 

The  State  Normal  School  is  at  Natchitoches  ;  and 
New  Orleans  also  has  a  normal  school.  The 
Tulane  University  of  Louisiana  was  founded  by 
the  State  in  the  year  1837,  as  the  University  of 
Louisiana,  and  took  the  name  of  Tulane  from  Paul 
Tulane  of  New  Jersey,  who  amassed  a  fortune  in 
New  Orleans  between  1822  and  1873,  and  retired 
to  his  native  State.  Between  1882  and  1887  ne 
gave  $1, 100,000  for  education,  and  the  institution 
thus  endowed  acquired  the  valuable  franchises  and' 
handsome  classical  buildings  of  the  old  University  at  New  Orleans,  and  has  attained  a  high 
efficiency.  Tulane  University  has  25  instructors  and  248  students  ;  the  Law  Department 
(founded  in  1847),  ^ve  instructors  and  52  students  ;  the  Medical  Department,  eleven  instruc- 
tors and  287  students.  The  H.  Sophie  Newcomb  Memorial  College,  founded  by  Mrs. 
Warren  Newcomb  of  New  York,  was  opened  as  a  department  of  Tulane  in  1887.  It  has 
handsome  buildings  on  Washington  Avenue.  There  is  also  a  free  drawing  school,  with  310 
students ;  a  manual  training  school ;  and  a  valuable  gallery  of  original  paintings  and 
statuary.  The  Tulane-University  library  contains  20,000  volumes;  and  the  State  Library, 
in  the  Law  Building,  has  26,000.  The  Louisiana  State  Uni-  j 

versity  was  opened  in  1855,  at  Alexandria,  with  Col.  W.  T. 
Sherman  as  commandant.  Reopened  after  the  war,  it  was 
moved  to  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum  at  Baton  Rouge,  in 
1869,  and  now  occupies  the  old  United-States  Arsenal,  on  a 
high  bluff  north  of  the  city,  surrounded  by  superb  oaks,  and 
overlooking  the  Mississippi  for  many  leagues.  The  State 
Agricultural  College  is  connected  with  the  University,  and 
there  are  commercial  and  civil-engineering  schools.  The 
University  is  declining,  falling  from  200  students  in  1880  to 
69  in  1887,  and  financial  straitness  has  constrained  reducing 
the  professors'  salaries.  The  Southern  University  at  New 


NEW  ORLEANS  :  TULANE  UNIVERSITY. 


NEW  ORLEANS  :  ST. -ROCH'S  CHAPEL. 


308  KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

Orleans  is  endowed  by  the  State  for  colored  youth,  and  has  preparatory,  academic,  nor- 
mal and  industrial  departments.  Streight  University  (Congregational),  also  at  New  Or- 
leans, is  for  white  or  colored  students.  New-Orleans  University  is  also  for  blacks  or  whites, 
and  has  the  Gilbert-Haven  School  of  Theology  (Metho-  j  dist).  Leland  University  is  a 
Baptist  school.  Each  of  these  uni- 
versities has  from  400  to  600  students, 
all  colored.  The  college  of 
the  Immaculate  Conception, 
founded  by  the  Jesuits  at  New 
Orleans,  in  1847,  has  1 60  stu- 
dents, besides  235  in  commer- 
cial and  preparatory  courses. 
The  Catholics  also  conduct 
Jefferson  College,  St.  -Mary's,  Na'v  OHLEANS  :  CONVENT  OF  THE  GOOD  SHEPHERD. 

and  St.  -Charles  College,  at  Grand  Coteau.     The  Centenary  College  (Methodist)  is  at  Jack- 
son ;  and  Keachie  College  (Baptist)  is  at  Keachie. 

The  Howard  Memorial  Library  was  the  outgrowth  of  a  generous  plan  formed  by  Charles 
T.  Howard,  and  carried  out,  after  his  death,  by  his  daughter,  Miss  Annie  T.  Howard,  who 

erected  in  New  Orleans  this  beautiful  building 
as  a  monument  to  her  father.  Subsequently, 
she  endowed  it  with  $i  15,000  (increased  by  kins- 
men to  $200,000)  ;  and  gave  the  entire  property 
and  fund  to  a  board  of  trustees,  for  the  citizens 
of  New  Orleans  as  a  free  reference-library.  The 
librarian  is  Charles  A.  Nelson,  a  Harvard  gradu- 
ate, formerly  cataloguer  of  the  Astor  Library 
(New  York).  The  building  was  designed  by  the 
greatest  of  American  architects,  H.  H.  Richard- 
son (a  native  of  Louisiana)  ;  and  constructed  by 
Norcross  Bros,  of  Worcester  (Mass. ).  It  is  in  the  Romanesque  style,  of  ironstone,  with  a 
high  pitched  roof  and  dormers,  and  turrets  covered  with  red  terra-cotta  tiles  from  Akron 
(Ohio).  The  great  reading-room,  with  its  monumental  fire-place,  and  the  imposing  book- 
room,  with  18,000  volumes  in  its  alcoves,  have  a  restful  air  of  luxury  and  refinement,  in 
their  rich  and  subdued  interior  finish.  The  whole  institution  is  one  of  the 
most  beneficent  and  most  attractive  features  of  New  Orleans. 

The  Newspapers  of  Louisiana  number  about  150.  Of  these  ten  are 
in  French,  three  in  German,  and  one  each  in  Spanish  and  Italian.  The 
foremost  newspaper  in  the  Gulf  States,  and  one  of  the  great  exponents  of 
Southern  thought  and  sentiment  is  the  New-Orleans  Times-Democrat. 
The  Times  was  founded  in  1863,  to  support  the  Union  cause,  which  then 
had  no  advocate  in  the  State ;  and  after  the  war  became  an  independent 
Democratic  journal.  The  Democrat  was  organized  late  in  1875,  as  a  Dem- 
ocratic campaign  evening  paper,  under  the  editorship  of  Robert  Tyler,  son 
of  ex-President  Tyler.  It  became  a  morning  paper,  and  after  many  vicissi- 
tudes, passed  into  the  sole  ownership  of  Major  E.  A.  Burke,  State  Treasurer, 
in  1 88 1,  who  also  in  the  same  year  bought  the  Times,  and  consolidated  the 
two  papers  under  the  present  title.  In  1883,  Page  M.  Baker  became 
editor,  and  in  1884  was  elected  manager.  In  1888  the  Burke  interest  was 
sold.  Mr.  Baker  is  now  both  manager  and  editor-in-chief;  and  the  paper  E 
continually  advances  in  circulation  and  in  influence.  It  has  been  foremost  '  N^w  QRLEANS  . 
in  advancing  the  industrial  development  of  the  South,  in  bringing  about  a  TIMES-DEMOCRAT. 


NEW  ORLEANS  :    THE  HOWARD  MEMORIAL    LIBRARY. 


r 


THE  STATE  OF  LOUISIANA. 


3°9 


NEW  ORLEANS  :    METAIRIE  CEMETERY. 


larger  trade  with  Latin  America,  in  special 
telegraphic-news  service  throughout  the  South, 
and  in  leading  great  charitable  movements.  It 
owns  both  the  Associated-Press  and  the  United- 
Press  franchises.  Its  relief  steamboat  averted 
vast  distress  in  the  overflowed  districts  of 
Louisiana  and  Mississippi ;  and  its  intrepid  exploring  ex- 
pedition was  the  first  to  traverse  the  Everglades  of  Florida. 
The  Catholic  population  of  the  State  is  about  320,000, 
with  125  churches.  The  Methodists  and  Baptists  have 
between  20,000  and  25,000  members  each,  and  the  re- 
maining Protestant  sects  have  20,000  members  in  all. 
National  Institutions.— There  are  four  United-States  forts  in  Louisiana^  Jackson  and 
St.  Philip,  73  miles  below  New  Orleans,  for  the  defence  of  the  Mississippi,  and  Macomb 
and  Pike,  near  Chef  Menteur,  guarding  the  entrances  to  Lake  Pontchartrain.  All  these 
works  are  ungarrisoned  and  dismantled,  the  only  National  troops  in  the  State  being  two 
companies  at  Jackson  Barracks,  six  miles  from  New  Orleans.  The  National  Cemetery  at 
Chalmette,  on  Jackson's  battle-ground,  has  12,192  graves,  1, 800  of  them  covering  New- 
England  soldiers,  who  died  in  this  region  during  the  Civil  War.  The  National  Cemetery  at 
Alexandria  contains  1,300  victims  of  the  Red-River  campaigns;  that  at  Port  Hudson, 
nearly  4,000  Union  soldiers,  who  died  during  the  famous  siege  ;  and  that  at  Baton  Rouge, 
those  who  lost  their  lives  in  defending  the  city  against  Confederate 
assaults. 

Chief  Cities. —  New  Orleans  is  the  largest  cotton-mart  in  the 
world  (except  Liverpool),  and  receives  2,000,000  bales  yearly.  Six 
trunk-line  railways  centre  here,  and  several  large  steamship  Hues. 
The  trade  includes  Central  and  'South-American  fruits  (2,500,000 
bunches  of  bananas  yearly),  Texan  and  Mexican  wool  (30,000,000 
pounds  yearly),  and  hides  (12,000,000  pounds)  and  Southern  lumber 
and  iron.  The  tonnage,  commerce  and  population  of  the  port  are 
now  greater  than  ever,  with  immense  exports  of  sugar,  cotton  and 
rice  to  New  York  and  Liverpool.  The  Mississippi  is.  half  a  mile  wide  opposite  the  city, 
though  107  miles  from  the  sea,  and  furnishes  a  noble  avenue  for  great  numbers  of  ships  and 
river-steamers,  which  lie  along  the  levee  in  ranks.  The  city  abounds  in  rich  bits  of  color, 
the  semi-Oriental  slave-market,  the  vivid  gardens  of  the  French,  the  miles  of  shipping,  the 
brilliant  theatres,  the  noble  old  Cathedral  St.  Louis  and  the  court  buildings  beside  it, 
the  fine  drives  on  the  Shell  Road,  the  venerable  Spanish  Fort  on  Lake  Pontchartrain,  the 
many-colored  streets  of  the  old  Creole  quarter,  the  quaint  gables  and  peaks  and  dormers  of 
the  Rue  Royale,  the  bright  flower-beds  and  trim  shrubbery  of  Jackson  Square,  and  the 
fragments  of  the  Spanish  barracks.  Mardi  Gras  in  New  Or- 
leans is  the  most  picturesque  of  American  festivals,  and 
abounds  in  masks  and  revelry.  The  pleasant  parks,  Audubon, 
Lafayette,  the  Place  d'Armes,  and  others,  contain  the  bronze 
equestrian  statue  of  Gen.  Jackson,  Hiram  Powers's  marble 
statue  of  Franklin,  and  the  Lee  Monument ;  an  equestrian  statue 
of  Gen.  A.  S.  Johnston  and  other  memorials.  Metairie  Ceme- 
tery with  its  interments  above  ground  is  noted.  Its  entrance 
was  designed  by  Sully  &  Toledano. 

Baton  Rouge,  the  capital  city,  is  on  the  Mississippi,  on  the 
first  spur  of  high  land  that  reaches  the  river,  and  has  many 
quaint  old  houses,  and  an  air  of  languid  quiet.  Of  late  years 
it  has  developed  a  large  country  trade  with  the  adjoining  NEW  ORLEANS  :  PICKWICK  CLUB. 


NEW   ORLEANS : 
A    CEMETERY    WALK. 


3io 


KING^S  HANDBOOK   OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 


$23, 


NEW  ORLEANS  I    JESUIT  COLLEGE  AND  CHURCH. 


parishes.  Shreveport,  the  metropolis  of  northern  Louisiana,  on  the  Red  River,  has  rail- 
ways, steamboat  lines,  and  factories,  and  ships  great  quantities  of  cotton.  It  stands  in  an 
alluvial  valley  of  unexcelled  fertility. 

In  Commerce  Louisiana  has  stood  second  only  to  New  York  in  her  exports,  with  over 
$110,000,000  in  yearly  value,  $20,000,000  in  imports,  and  a  coast- 
wise and  interior  trade  of  $250,000,000.     These  amounts  fell  off 
very  much  between  1870  and  1880,  but  the  trade  of 
the  city  is  again  improving. 

Finances. —  Louisiana's  net  State  debt  was 
,000,000  in  1880;  and  this  was  reduced  by 
1890  to  $12,500,000.  Of  the  13  National 
banks  in  Louisiana,  eight  are  in  New  Or- 
leans. The  New-Orleans  National  Bank,  one 
of  the  foremost  financial  institutions  of  the 
Southwest,  embodies  in  its  Board  of  Directors 
many  of  the  prominent  merchants  of  the 
city,  and  has  a  close  and  beneficial  relation  to  the  entire  business  community,  holding 
over  $2,000,000  worth  of  discounted  bills.  The  total  resources  of  this  great  corporation 
reach  nearly  $5,000,000,  the  deposits  being  $4,000,000,  and  the 
capital  and  surplus  amounting  to  over  $800,000.  The  bank  has 
correspondents  in  all  the  principal  American  cities,  and  makes 
collections,  investments  and  telegraphic  transfers  of  money.  The 
stock  of  the  New-Orleans  National  Bank  (Albert  Baldwin,  presi- 
dent) is  quoted  at  over  seven  times  its  par  value,  a  fact  which  in- 
dicates the  confidence  reposed  in  this  strong  bulwark  of  finance. 
Its  handsome  bank  building  was  designed  by  Sully  &  Toledano. 

Railroads. —  The  great  Texas  &  Pacific  Railway  extends  from 
New  Orleans  to  Shreveport,  and  thence  across  the  State  of  Texas, 
with  various  branches  and  connections,  and  extensive  wharves 
and  warehouses  on  the  Mississippi,  near  New  Orleans.  It  owns 
over  a  thousand  square  miles  of  land  in  the  Mississippi  and  Yazoo 
Valleys,  and  sells  large  and  small  tracts  here  for  low  cash  pay- 
ments and  long  credits.  The  line  does  an  immense  business  in 
transporting  cattle,  lumber,  cotton,  sugar,  molasses  and  rice.  The  NEW-ORLEANS: 

Southern  Pacific,  from  New  Orleans  to   Los  Angeles  and  San     NEW-°RI-EANS  NATIONAL  BANK. 
Francisco,  controls  Morgan's  Louisiana  &  Texas  line.     The  Louisville  &  Nashville,  from 
New-Orleans  to  Mobile  (140  miles)  has  38  miles;  the  New-Orleans  and  North-Eastern 
(Queen  &  Crescent),  43  miles. 

The  Anchor  Line  has  eleven  large  steamboats  plying  between  New  Orleans  and  Vicks- 
burg  and  St.  Louis;  and  the  Southern  Transportation  Company  runs  seven  steamboats 
between  New  Orleans  and  Cincinnati.  Minor  lines  make  regular  trips  to  the  Upper  Coast 
and  Lower  Coast,  the  Red  and  Ouachita  Rivers,  and  Bayous  Teche,  Tensas  and  Macon. 

The  Morgan  steamships  run  from  New-Orleans 
to  New  York,  Cedar  Keys,  Punta  Gorda,  Key 
West,  Havana,  Vera  Cruz,  Progeso,  Santiago 
and  Nicaragua. 

The  Manufactures  of  Louisiana  include 
small  quantities  of  clothing,  machinery,  cot- 
ton-seed oil,  cigars,  malt  liquors,  flour  and 
meal,  lumber,  and  sugar.  The  output  of  New 
Orleans  alone  was  $45,000,000  for  the  year 

MEW  ORLEANS  :  THE  CHARITY  HOSPITAL.          1 890. 


Whether  the  Norsemen, 
Biarne  in  the  year  996,  and 
Thorfmn  in  1008,  visited  the 
Maine  coast,  no  one  can  sure- 
ly tell.  Many  believe  that 
they  did.  Cortereal,  Veraz- 
zano,  Gomez  and  other  nav- 
igators sailed  down  the  Gulf 
of  Maine  before  1 530  ;  and  in 

1603,  Martin  Pring  spent  a  pleasant  June  on  Penobscot  and 
Casco  bays  and  along  the  Maine  rivers.  In  1604,  De  Monts 
founded  a  French  colony  on  Neutral  Island,  in  the  St.  Croix 
River  ;  in  1605,  Waymouth  set  up  crosses  at  Monhegan  and 
Pentecost  Harbor,  to  claim  the  land  for  England  ;  in  1607, 
Popham  established  an  ephemeral  Anglican  colony  at  Phips- 
burg  ;  and  in  1613,  a  French  Jesuit  mission  came  into  exist- 
ence at  Mount  Desert,  and  was  destroyed  by  a  Virginian 
fleet.  In  1614,  Capt.  John  Smith  ranged  the  coast  in  an 
open  boat  from  the  Penobscot  to  Cape  Cod.  Sections  of 
Maine  were  granted  to  Capt.  John  Mason,  the  Duke  of 
York,  Sir  Ferdinando  Gorges  and  other  adventurous  pro- 
moters of  colonies  ;  and  settlements  arose  along  the  coast, 
at  Pemaquid,  Monhegan,  Saco,  and  other  points.  In  1652 
Massachusetts  began  to  govern  Maine,  and  25  years 
later  she  bought  out  the  Gorges'  rights.  By  the  char- 
ter of  William  and  Mary  (1691),  Massachusetts,  Plymouth, 
Acadia,  Sagadahoc  and  Maine  were  consolidated  into  "The 
Royal  Province  of  Massachusetts  Bay."  The  partisan  war- 
fare of  D'Aulnay  and  La  Tour,  the  settlement  of  the  Baron 
de  St.  Castin  on  Penobscot  Bay,  the  forays  of  the  Indian 
chieftains  Mogg  Megone  and  Madockawando,  and  the 
Jesuit  missions  and  crusades,  have  touched  this  iron-bound 
coast  with  the  halo  of  romance,  and  furnished  themes  for 
the  poems  of  Longfellow  and  Whittier. 

During  the  long  struggles  with  the  French  and  Indians  Maine  suffered  dreadfully. 
Only  five  settlements  remained  at  the  close  of  King  Philip's  War,  and  in  the  first  French 
War  every  town  east  of  Wells  went  down.  Terrible  return  blows  were  struck  by  the  Colo- 


Settled  at Pemaquid. 

Settled  in 1630 

Founded  by    .     .          .    Englishmen. 
Admitted  as  a  State,  .     . 
Population,  in  1860,     .     . 
In  1870,    .... 
In  1880,  .... 

White, 

Colored,  .  .  -,..-. 
American-born,  .  . 
Foreign-born,  .  .  . 

Males, 

Females, 

In  1890  (U.  S.  census), 
Population  to  the  square  mile,     21.7 
Voting  Population,      ...     187,323 
Vote  for  Harrison  (1888),         73, 734 
Vote  for  Cleveland  (1888),       50,481 
Net  State  Debt,     .     .    $3,408,229.70 
Real  and  Personal  Prop- 
erty,      $309,000,000 

Area  (square  miles),  .  .  .  33,040 
U.  S.  Representatives  (1893),  4 

Militia'(Disciplined),   .     .     .        1,090 

Counties 16 

Post-offices, J>125 

Railroads  (miles),     ....        1,338 

Vessels, 221 

Tonnage, 409,664 

Manufactures  (yearly),      $79,825,393 

Operatives, 52,949 

Yearly  Wages,     .     .     .  $13,621,538 
Farm  Land  (in  acres),    .       6,552,578 
Farm-Land  Values,       $102,357,615 
Farm  Products  (yearly)  $21,945,489 
Public  Schools,  Average 

Daily  Attendance,  .     .     .       98,641 

Newspapers, 175 

Latitude,  .  .  .  43Q4/  tO47°3i/N. 
Longitude,  .  .  66°45'  to  71%'  W. 
Temperature,  .  .  .  —21°  to  97° 
Mean  Temperature  (Augusta),  45° 


CHIEF  CITIES  AND  THEIR  POPULA- 
TIONS (CENSUS  OF    1890). 


Portland, 
Lewision, 
Bangor,    .  . 
Biddeford, 
Auburn,    . 
Augusta,  . 
Bath,    .    . 
Rockland, 
Calais, 
Waterville, 


36,425 
21,701 
19,103 
14,443 
11,250 
10,527 
8,723 
8,174 
7,290 
7,107 


312 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED  STATES. 


PORTLAND  t    LONGFELLOW'S    BIRTHPLACE. 


nial  troops  at  Fryeburg,  Norridgewock,  and  elsewhere.  In 
Queen  Anne's  War  the  settlements  suffered  devastation  by 
torch  and  tomahawk  during  a  long  decade.  For  many 
years  the  roaring  of  hostile  cannon  echoed  around  the  walls 
of  Pemaquid,  Castine,  York,  and  other  fortresses  and  vil- 
lages. But  the  colonists  fought  the  savages  with  heroic 
tenacity,  and  pushed  line  after  line  of  settlements  inland. 

A  Maine  regiment  served  in  the  battle  of  Bunker  Hill, 
and  throughout  the  Revolution  the  long  and  exposed  coast  was  ravaged  by  the  royal  fleets. 
The  British  armed  vessel  Margaretta  suffered  capture  at  Machias  after  a  sanguinary  battle, 
"The  Lexington  of  the  Sea."  In  1775,  a  British  fleet  destroyed  Portland  by  bombard- 
ment, burning  414  buildings. 

During  the  War  of  1812  British  expeditions  captured  Eastport,  Robbinston,  Castine, 
Belfast,  Hampden,  Bangor,  and  Machias,  inflicting  great  damage.  In  1819,  two  thirds  of 
the  inhabitants  of  the  District  of  Maine  voted  to  separate  from  Massachusetts,  with  whose 
hearty  and  kindly  approval  and  help  this  change  was  effected,  and  Maine,  in  1820,  entered 
the  Union,  the  youngest  of  the  Atlantic  States,  except  Florida.  The  Aroostook  War,  in 

1837-9,  arose  from  boundary  disputes  be- 
tween Maine  and  New  Brunswick,  and 
the  border  was  garrisoned  by  regulars 
and  local  militia,  under  Gen.  Scott. 

During  the  late  civil  war  Maine  sent 
out  70,000  troops,  and  incurred  a  war 
debt  of  $12,000,000.  The  only  disturb- 
ance of  her  territory  occurred  in  1863, 
when  a  party  of  Confederate  privateers- 
men  cut  out  the  United-States  revenue- 
cutter  Caleb  Gushing,  in  Portland  harbor. 
They  put  to  sea  in  their'prize,  but  were  hotly  pursued  by  hastily  armed  local  steamboats,  and 
captured.  In  1870  and  afterwards  a  number  of  families  were  brought  over  from  Sweden 
and  placed  upon  the  rich  Aroostook  lands.  In  such  ways,  and  by  the  inflowing  of  French 
Canadians,  the  State  is  repairing  the  losses  caused  by  the  vast  westward  migrations  of  its 
people.  The  famous  "Maine  Law"  policy,  begun  in  1846  and  1851,  imposes  severe  pen- 
alties on  the  manufacture,  selling  or  drinking  of  intoxicating  liquors.  It  has  not  suppressed 
these  evils,  but  has  abated  them  ;  and  drunkenness  and  tippling  are  held  in  disrepute. 

The  Name  of  Maine  is  due  to  its  geographical  features.  "Years  before  the  name 
appeared  in  the  charter,  the  territory  was  designated  by 
English  mariners  'The  Maine,'  to  distinguish  it  from  its 
insular  parts.  A  useful  and  expressive  word,  constantly 
applied  to  it,  was  adopted  for  the  English  name  of  the 
territory.  In  the  grant  by  Charles  I.  to  Sir  Ferdinando 
Gorges  it  is  recorded  :  « All  that  Parte,  Purport  and 
Portion  of  the  Mayne  Lande  of  New  England  we  doe 
name,  ordeyne  and*  appoynt  shall  forever  hereafter  bee 
called  and  named  The  Province  or  Countie  of  Mayne. '  " 
The  mast  pine,  an  evergreen  of  towering  height,  is  the 
pride  of  the  Maine  forests,  and  gives  rise  to  the  popu- 
lar name  of  THE  PINE-TREE  STATE. 

The  Arms  of  Maine  display  a  silver  shield,  bearing 
a  pine  tree,  with  a  moose  at  its  foot ;  the  word  MAINE       "=»** 
below ;  the  motto  DiRlGO  ("I  direct ")  above  ;  the  crest, 
a  star ;  and  the  supporters,  a  husbandman  and  seaman.  WE8T  QUODDY  LIGHT. 


LUBEC    AND   THE    NARROWS. 


THE  STATE   OF  MAINE. 


3*3 


The  Governors  of  the  State  have  been  :  William 
King,  1820 ;  William  Durkee  Williamson  (acting), 
1821  ;  Albion  K.  Parris,  1822-7  ;  Enoch  Lincoln, 
1827-9  ;  Nathan  Cutler  (acting),  1829-30  ;  Jonathan 
G.  Hunton,  1830-1  ;  Samuel  Emerson  Smith,  1831-4; 
Robert  P.  Dunlap,  1834-8;  Edward  Kent,  1838-9; 
John  Fairfield,  1839-40;  Edward  Kent,  1840-1  ;  John 
Fairfield,  1841-3  ;  Edward  Kavanagh  (acting),  1843-4  ; 
Hugh  J.  Anderson,  1844-7  5  J°^n  W.  Dana,  1847-50  ; 
John  Hubbard,  1850-3;  Wm.  G.  Crosby,  1853-5;  Anson  P.  Morrill,  1855-6;  Samuel 
Wells,  1856-7;  Hannibal  Hamlin,  1857;  Joseph  H.  Williams  (acting),  1857-8;  Lot  M. 
Morrill,  1858-61  ;  Israel  Washburn,  Jr.,  1861-2  ;  Abner  Coburn,  1863-4;  Samuel  Cony, 
1864-7;  Joshua  Lawrence  Chamberlain,  1867-71;  Sidney  Perham,  1871-4;  Nelson 
Dingley,  Jr.,  1874-6  ;  Selden  Connor,  1876-9  ;  AlonzoGarcelon,  1879-80;  Daniel  F.  Davis, 
1880- 1  ;  Harris  M.  Plaisted,  1881-3;  Frederick  Robie,  1883-7;  Joseph  R.  Bodwell,  1887  ; 
Sebastian  S.  Marble  (acting),  1887-9  >  an<^  Edwin  C.  Burleigh,  1889-93. 

Descriptive. —  Maine  is  nearly  as  large  as  the  other  five  New-England  States  com- 
bined. The  Atlantic  Ocean  bounds  it  on  the  south  and  southeast ;  New  Hampshire 
extends  along  the  west ;  and  the  Canadian  provinces  of  Quebec  and  New  Brunswick,  on 
the  west  and  the  east,  bend  to  a  union  over  Maine's  northern  frontier.  The  most  easterly 
point  of  United- States  land  is  the  bold  rocky  promontory  of  West  Quoddy  Head,  near 
Lubec.  The  surface  of  Maine  is 
beautifully  diversified.  The  coast 
hills  include  Agamenticus  (673  feet), 
Mount  Megunticook  (1,457  feet),  and 
Green  Mountain,  on  Mount-Desert 
Island  (1,527  feet).  An  ascending 
slope  runs  140  miles  inland  to  the 
divide,  whence  the  northern  slope 
.of  7,400  square  miles  descends  80 

'       ..  ,        *  .  MOOSEHEAD    LAKE:    MOUNT    KINEO. 

miles  to  the  Canadian  frontier.   There 

are  several  ranges  of  wooded  mountains,  breaking  at  thejr  summits  into  noble  craggy  peaks. 
Foremost  among  these  is  Mount  Katahdin,  5,385  feet  high,  isolated  in  the  lonely  Penobscot 
wilderness.  Around  Moosehead  Lake  rise  the  fine  peaks  of  Squaw  Mountain,  3,262  feet ; 
Mount  Baker,  3,589;  and  the  Spencer  Mountains,  3,135.  In  western  Maine  are  Mount 
Bigelow,  3,300  feet ;  Mount  Abraham,  3,387  ;  Saddleback  Mountain,  4,000  ;  Mount  Blue, 
3,200;  Mount  Aziscoos,  3,150;  and  other  lofty  summits.  There  are  1,568  lakes  and 
ponds,  covering  2,300  square  miles,  with  limpid  waters  and  great  beauty  of  scenery.  The 
chief  of  these  are  Moosehead,  38  by  twelve  miles  long,  and  1,023  feet  above  the  sea; 

Sebago,  14  by  eleven  miles,  and  400  feet  deep  ; 
the  Rangeley  Lakes,  1,511  feet  above  the 
sea,  and  covering  80  square  miles  ;  Chesun- 
cook,  20  by  two  miles  in  area  ;  and  the  Schoo- 
dics,  near  the  eastern  boundary.  These  lovely 
inland  waters  abound  in  pickerel,  trout,  land- 
locked salmon,  and  other  fish,  and  are  visited 
by  thousands  of  sportsmen. 

Maine  is  blessed  with  a  network  of  5,151 
streams,  the  chief  of  which  are  the  Penobscot, 
275  miles  long,  and  navigable  to  Bangor  (55 
miles)  ;  the  deep  and  rocky-shored  Kennebec, 
MOUNT  DESERT  :  EAGLE  LAKE.  155  mi^es  l°ng>  ano^  navigable  to  Augusta  (42 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


MOUNT    DESERT    AND    BAR    HARBOR. 


miles);  the  Androscoggin,  157  miles;  the  St. 
Croix,  97  miles  ;  and  the  Saco,  95  miles.  The 
St.  John  drains  a  great  area  of  the  wilderness.  It 
is  claimed  that  Maine  has  more  available  water- 
power  than  any  other  portion  of  the  globe  of  equal 
extent,  the  amount  being  above  2,500,000  horse- 
power. 

The  rock-bound  coast  of  "hundred-harbored 
Maine"  extends  for  2,486  miles  (225  miles  in  a 
straight  line),  and  is  broken  by  the  great  bays  of  Passamaquoddy,  Penobscot,  and  Casco, 
each  of  them  abounding  in  beautiful  islands  ;  and  by  many  smaller  bays,  Sheepscot, 
Frenchman's,  Muscongus,  Narraguagus,  and  others.  The  coast  forms  a  succession  of  long 
rocky  peninsulas  and  islands,  separated  by  deep  and  narrow  fiords,  and  with  many  admira- 
ble land-locked  harbors.  It  is  starred  at  night  by  54  light-houses  and  lighted  beacons, 
and  23  fog-signals  ;  and  23  bell-buoys  and  whistling-buoys  warn  mariners  from  points 
of  danger. 

Summer  Resorts  abound  in  this  charming  northern  park,  which  is  far  above  the 
range  of  malaria,  mosquitoes,  and  heat.  There  are  summer-hotels  and  cottages  all  along 
the  coast,  from  ancient  Kittery  and  York  and  Wells,  by  Kennebunkport,  Old  Orchard,  and 
Scarborough,  and  among  the  lovely  islands  of  Casco  Bay,  to  Harpswell  and  Cape  Small 
Point ;  Hunnewell's  Point,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Ken- 
nebec  ;  Squirrel  Island,  off  Boothbay  ;  the  Penobscot- 
Bay  resorts,  Camden,  Northport,  Castine,  and  Deer 
Isle  ;  the  metropolitan  splendors  of  Mount  Desert  and 
Sorrento ;  and  the  remoter  eastern  beaches  and  head- 
lands. Off  Penobscot  Bay  rise  the  purple  mountains 
of  Isle  au  Haut,  inside  of  which  lie  the  hundreds 
of  islands  which  gem  the  great  estuary  of  the  Pen- 
obscot. Monhegan  is  twelve  miles  from  the  main-  MOUNT  DESERT  :  SPLIT  ROCK. 
land,  and  covers  a  thousand  rocky  acres.  Mount  Desert,  'off  the  eastern  coast,  is  a  mimic 
continent  of  100  square  miles,  with  13  high  mountains  rising  from  the  sea,  and  several 
clear  highland  lakes.  Its  wonderful  Tyrolese  scenery  has  given  reason  for  the  growth 
here  of  one  of  the  choicest  of  American  summer-resorts,  and  the  beautiful  cottages  and 
the  huge  hotels  of  Bar  Harbor  are  of  world-wide  fame.  Several  other  popular  resorts, 
like  Seal  Harbor,  Southwest  Harbor,  and  Northeast  Harbor,  have  risen  on  the  island  ;  and 
the  shores  of  the  adjacent  Frenchman's  Bay  are  studded  with  similar  summer-colonies, 
Sorrento,  Sullivan,  Winter  Harbor,  and  La  Moine.  An  eminent  Boston  divine  once 
lamented  that  "God  is  making  no  more  Maine  coast;"  and  this  glorious  eight  hundred 
leagues  of  sea-bound,  backed  by  illimitable  natural  parks  of  forests,  lakes  and  mountains,  is 

the  great  pleasure-ground  of  the  North-Atlantic 
States.  In  the  vast  northern  forests  there  are  many 
favorite  places  for  sportsmen,  the  trout-abounding 
Rangeley  Lakes,  great  Moosehead  Lake,  Chesun- 
cook,  the  Allagash  waters,  and  many  other  lonely 
forest-streams  and  lakes,  on  whose  shores  the  moose 
and  caribou  still  linger.  On  the  west  are  Frye- 
burg  and  Bethel,  close  by  the  White  Mountains. 
Fully  100,000  summer-visitors  enter  Maine  every 
season,  supporting  250  summer-hotels  and  num- 
berless farm  boarding-houses  and  forest-camps. 
Nearly  $10,000,000  are  spent  here  every  year  by 
LAKE  MOOSETOCMAGUNTIC,  and  for  this  class  of  guests. 


THE  STATE   OF  MAINE. 


MOUNT  DESERT:  BAR  HARBOR. 


One  of  the  most  charming  and  most  widely-known 
summer-resorts  in  America,  patronized  by  distin- 
guished people  from  both  continents,  is  Poland 
Spring,  25  miles  north  of  Portland,  and  reached 
by  a  delightful  five-mile  stage-ride  from  Dan- 
ville Junction,  where  the  Maine-Central  and 
Grand-Trunk  Railways  cross.  Among  the  ven- 
erable pine  and  oak  groves  on  this  hill-top, 
which  looks  over  leagues  of  lakes  and  valleys, 
and  out  to  the  White  Mountains,  stands  the 
great  Poland-Spring  House,  with  its  broad  frontage,  500  feet  long,  and  all  modern  devices 
for  giving  comfort  and  luxury  to  the  pilgrims  of  health.  Close  by  is  the  Mansion  House, 
smaller,  but  very  attractive,  and  open  all  the  year.  The  first  Mansion  House  was  opened 
here  in  1797  by  Wentworth  Ricker,  and  ever  since  that  time  some  member  of  the  family 
has  kept  a  hotel  here.  The  establishments  now  are  run  by  Hiram  Ricker  &  Sons.  The 
foremost  characteristic  of  this  wonderful  spring  is  its  unapproachable  and  incomparable 
purity,  an  excellence  in  which  It  is  unsurpassed  among  all  the  waters  of  the  world.  It  is  not 
a  mineral  water,  but  the  least  mineral  of  waters ;  and  therein,  and  in  certain  unknown  but 
irresistible  potencies,  its  mysterious  power  consists.  It  is  a  powerful  absorbent,  and  cures 
many  perilous  disorders,  besides  reviving  dormant  or  dying  organs.  In  all  diseases  of  the 
kidneys  it  acts  with  magical  efficacy.  The  Poland  water  is  sent  in  great 
quantities  to  all  parts  of  the  United  States,  being  everywhere  in  use  as  a 
remedial  agent,  or  as  a  delicious  table-water. 

The  Maine  woods  cover  20,000  square  miles, 
an  area  seven  times  greater  tha'n  the  Black  For- 
kest  of  Germany;  and  abound  in  great  white 
pines,  sometimes  240  feet  high ; 
hard  and  thick-grained  yellow  pines; 
Norway  and  pitch-pines,  spruces 
and  hemlocks,  elms  and  maples, 
beeches  and  buttonwoods,  oaks  and 
and  poplars,  cedars  and  firs.  Tho- 
the  whole  length  of  the  country  on 
out  400,000,000  feet  yearly.  The 


POLAND 

SPRING. 


POLAND-SPRING    HOUSE. 


birches,  basswoods  and  ashes,  larches 
reau  said  that  "a  squirrel  could  travel 
the  tops  of  the  trees."  The  lumber 


MANSION    HOUSE. 


industries  run 

enforcement  of  laws  against  hunting  with  dogs  has  been  attended  with  an  amazing  increase 
of  deer,  caribou,  and  moose  ;  and  bears  and  catamounts,  wolverines  and  hedgehogs,  abound. 
The  hunters  of  Maine  send  yearly  to  the  furriers  22,000  skins  of  muskrats,  10,000  of  foxes 
and  mink,  and  great  numbers  of  sables,  otters,  and  coons. 

Climate. —  Equidistant  between  the  equator  and  the  North  Pole,  Maine  is  a  land  of 
variable  winds,  gentle  rains,  sudden  changes,  and  heavy  sea-fogs,  with  cooler  summers  and 
warmer  winters  than  corresponding  latitudes  in  the  interior.  The  mean  annual  temperature 
1540.88°;  mean  summer  62.18°;  mean  winter  18.45°.  The  mean  annual  depth  of  snow 


is  83.02  inches  (equal  to  6.91  inches  of  water).  In  the  north  it  cov- 
from  mid-November  to  mid- April.  The  Penobscot  is  frozen  for  125 
The  summer  is  short,  with  hardly  five  months 
between  frosts.  Malarial  diseases  are  rare, 
but  consumption  causes  one  fourth  of 
the  deaths. 

The  Geology  of  Maine  affords,  as   « 
its  best  commercial  products,  the  ex- 
cellent gray,  red,  and  black  granites 
PORTLAND  :  POST-OFFICE.       of   the   Penobscot    Islands,   used   for 


ers  the  ground 
days  each  year. 


PORTLAND  :    CUSTOM-HOUSE. 


PORTLAND  :    OBSERVATORY. 


316  KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE    UNITED   STATES. 

public  buildings  all  over  the  country.  Dix  Island  produced  the  material  for 
the  Treasury  Building,  at  Washington,  and  the  New- York  and  Philadelphia 
post-offices.  The  Bod  well  Company  of  Vinal  Haven  has  quarried  the  larg- 
est piece  of  stone  ever  cut  in  the  world,  its  length  of  1 1 5  feet  exceed- 
ing that  of  the  greatest  of  the  Egyptian  obelisks.  Vinal  Haven 
yielded  much  of  the  stone  for  the  Cincinnati  Post-office  and  the  State 
Department,  at  Washington.  Maine  granite  has  also  made  the 
Yorktown  and  Plymouth  monuments,  the  Buffalo  City  Hall,  the 
Baltimore  Post-office,  and  the  City  Building,  at  Chicago.  Deer 
Isle  has  valuable  quarries,  from  which  the  granite  is  swung  by 
derricks  on  to  the  vessels'  decks.  At  Mount  Waldo  200  men 
quarry  granite  paving-blocks.  Maine  ships  yearly  100,000,000  of  these  blocks.  There 
are  valuable  quarries  at  Yarmouth,  North  Jay,  and  Blue  Hill.  At  West  Sullivan  1,000 
men  are  engaged  quarrying  the  fine  gray  granite  which  spreads  along  the  top  of  the  ground, 
and  is  shipped  down  Frenchman's  Bay.  Hallowell  has  large  quarries  of  white  granite  ; 
and  Norridgewock  ships  granite  from  its  Dodlin  Hill.  Calais,  Mount  Desert,  and  Jones- 
port  produce  fine  red  granite ;  Addison,  St.  George,  and  Columbia  are  celebrated  for  their 
black  granite.  Rockland,  on  Penobscot  Bay,  has  eighty  kilns,  where  1,000  men  make 
1,200,000  barrels  of  lime  yearly.  The  slate-quarries  in  the  Piscataquis  Valley  have  been 
worked  for  half  a  century.  Freestone,  marble,  and  serpentine  are  found  in  various  places ; 
and  Orr's  Island  contains  fine  steatite.  Gold,  silver,  copper,  lead,  tin,  and  manganese  are 
found  in  small  quantities.  The  Katahdin  Iron  Works  produce  excellent  metal  from  bog 
ore.  Mount  ,  .  Mica,  in  Paris,  abounds  in  tourmalines,  rose-quartz, 

and  other  rare  minerals. 

Agriculture  is  increasing,  but  out  of  the 
19,000,000  acres  in  Maine,  only  3,500,000  are 
improved,  in  about  65,000  farms,  valued  at  $i  10, - 
000,000.  About  8,000,000  bushels  of  potatoes, 
2,800,000  of  oats,  1,000,000  of  corn,  1,300,000 
tons  of  hay,  2,800,000  pounds  of  wool,  and 
1,400,000  pounds  of  butter,  are  among  the  yearly  farm-products.  There  are  90,000  horses, 
350,000  cattle,  540,000  sheep,  and  70,000  hogs.  The  Aroostook  Valley  has  the  largest 
area  of  fertile  farming  land  in  New  England,  composed  of  a  deep  yellow  porous  loam, 
above  a  stratum  of  limestone.  Vast  areas  here  remain  unoccupied,  and  may  be  bought  for 
a  nominal  price.  Apples,  pears,  cherries,  plums,  grapes,  and  berries  grow  abundantly  all 
over  Maine ;  and  sweet  corn  and  other  vegetables  and  fruits  are  preserved  in  cans  at  many 
large  factories,  and  have  a  world-wide  reputation. 

The  Government  includes  a  governor,  elected  biennially  by  the  people,  and  several 
executive  officers  chosen  by  the  legislature,  which  is  composed  of  a  senate  of  thirty-one 
members  and  a  house  of  151  representatives.  The  Supreme  Judicial  Court  has  eight  jus- 
tices, and  there  are  probate  and  commissioners'  courts  in  each  county,  and  superior,  munici- 
pal and  police  courts. 

The  State  House,  on  the  heights  over  the  Ken- 
nebec  River  at  Augusta,  dates  from  1828-31,  and 
is  of  white  granite,  with  ten  monolithic  Doric  col- 
umns, and  a  graceful  and  far-viewing  dome.  It 
contains  the  legislative  halls  ;  the  State  Library  of 
45,000  volumes;  the  Rotunda,  with  112  battle- 
flags  and  guidons  of  the  Maine  volunteers  in  1861-5; 
and  the  portraits  of  Pepperrell,  Pownall,  Knox, 
Washington,  and  Lincoln.  The  Maine  General 
Hosp.it.al  is  at  Portland.  The  Maine  Industrial 


TOGUS  I  OLD  SOLDIERS'  HOME. 


PORTLAND  HARBOR  I  FORT  GORGES. 


I 


THE  STATE   OF  MAINE. 


BRUNSWICK  : 


VDOIN    COLLEGE. 


School  for  Girls,  at  Hallowell,  is  a  refuge 
for  the  friendless  and  imperilled,  but  not 
a  place  of  punishment.  The  State  Prison 
was  founded  in  1824,  at  Thomaston,  and 
has  170  convicts.  The  State  Insane 
Asylum  has  600  inmates. 

The  Maine  Volunteer  Militia  in- 
cludes a  brigade  of  two  infantry  regi- 
ments (of  eight  companies  each)  and  a  battery,  and  the  Frontier  Guards,  of  Eastport ;  and 
is  kept  in  an  efficient  condition  by  regular  encampments,  inspected  by  United-States  offi- 
cers. The  Reserve  Militia  consists  of  a  small  and  diminishing  number  of  independent 
companies,  kept  up  without  expense  to  the  State. 

The  United-States  Buildings  in  Maine  include  the  beautiful  white-marble  Post- 
office  and  the  granite  Custom  House,  at  Portland ;  public  offices  in  several  other  cities ;  the 
Kennebec  Arsenal,  at  Augusta,  with  several  thousand  stand  of  arms  and  many  cannon  ; 
and  the  United-States  Marine  Hospital,  near  Portland,  overlooking  the  beautiful  Casco 
Bay.  The  Navy  Yard,  at  Kittery,  dates  from  1806,  and  occupies  an  island  in  the  Pisca- 
taqua  River,  with  works  which  have  employed  1,000  men  at  once,  but  are  now  in  a  ruinous 
condition.  The  famous  old  war-ship  Constitution  is  kept  here.  Widow's  Island,  in  Penob- 
scot  Bay,  is  a  sanitarium  maintained  by  the  Government  for  the  quarantine  and  treatment 
of  the  sick  with  yellow  fever.  The  Eastern  Branch  of  the  National  Home  for  Disabled 
Volunteer  Soldiers  occupies  an  estate  of  1, 700 
acres,  formerly  used  as  a  summer  resort,  at 
Togus  Springs,  five  miles  from  Augusta 
This  domain  has  been  ceded  by  Maine  to  the 
United  States,  and  is  the  home  of  2,200 
uniformed  veterans,  from  many  States.  The 
fortifications  of  Maine  include  Fort  McClary, 
at  Kittery  Point ;  Forts  Preble,  Scammel,  WATERVILLE  :  COLBY  UNIVERSITY. 

and  Gorges,  in  Portland  Harbor ;  Fort  Popham,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kennebec ;  and 
Fort  Knox,  on  the  lower  Penobscot.  The  only  garrison  is  one  company  of  United- States 
artillery,  at  Fort  Preble. 

Education. —  The  State  Normal  Schools  are  at  Castine,  Gorham,  and  Farmington, 
with  the  Madawaska  Training- School,  at  Fort  Kent.  The  public  schools  are  thoroughly 
efficient,  and  receive  their  support  from  State  and  town  taxes.  Bowdoin  College,  at  Bruns- 
wick, was  incorporated  in  1794  and  opened  in  1802,  with  a  State  endowment.  It  also 
received  large  gifts  from  James  Bowdoin,  sometime  Minister  to  Spain  and  France,  the  son 
of  Gov.  Bowdoin,  the  great-grandson  of  Pierre  Baudouin,  a  Huguenot  gentleman  of  La 
Rochelle,  who  came  to  Portland  in  1689.  Nathaniel  Hawthorne,  Henry  W.  Longfellow, 
and  Franklin  Pierce  were  students  here,  at  the  same  time.  The  sombre  beauty  of  the  adja- 
cent pine-groves,  the  riches  of  the  Bowdoin  gallery  of  paintings,  the  stone  Memorial  Hall, 
the  frescoed  chapel,  and  the  library  of  40,000  volumes,  are  among  the  treasures  of  the  col- 
lege. There  are  190  students,  of  whom  170  are  from  Maine  ;  and  in  the  con- 
nected Medical  School  there  are  eighty  students,  seventy  of  whom  are  Maine 
men.  Nearly  4,000  students  have  graduated  here.  Colby  Univer- 
sity, at  Waterville,  on  the  Kennebec,  was  opened  in  1818,  and  is  a 
Baptist  institution,  with  several  brick  and  stone  buildings,  and  a 
library  of  25,000  volumes.  It  has  120  students,  young  men  and 
women.  The  State  College  of  Agriculture  and  the  Mechanic  Arts, 
at  Orono,  on  the  Penobscot,  dates  from  1868,  and  has  120  students, 
uniformed  in  blue  and  gray,  and  drilled  as  a  battalion  by  a  resident 
PORTLAND  :  PUBLIC  LIBRARY.  United-States  officer.  There  are  five  buildings,  and  a  farm  of  370 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


PORTLAND  HARBOR. 


acres.  Bates  College,  near  Lewiston,  is  a  Free- 
Baptist  institution  for  both  sexes,  founded  in  1863. 
It  has  ten  instructors  and  137  students.  The 
Bangor  Theological  Seminary,  founded  in  1814, 
is  a  Congregational  institution. 

The  Free  Public  Library,  presented  to  Port- 
land in  1889  by  J.  P.  Baxter,  is  a  handsome 
Romanesque  building.  The  Bangor  Library  has 
25,000  volumes;  and  the  Maine  Historical  Society,  10,000.  The  libraries  at  Livermore, 
Hallowell,  Saco,  and  Belfast  have  much  architectural  beauty. 

Chief  Cities. —  Portland,  "the  Forest  City,"  is  beautifully  situated  on  a  hilly  penin- 
sula of  Casco  Bay,  and  has  a  deep  and  well-sheltered  harbor,  and  a  shipping  of  over  100,000 
tons.  For  many  years  it  has  served  as  a  winter-port  for  Canada,  which  sends  out  from 
and  receives  thence  $50,000,000  worth  of  goods  yearly.  The  Indians  destroyed  Portland 
in  1676;  the  French  and  Indians,  in  1690;  the  British,  in  1775  ;  and  in  1866  a  fire  swept 
away  $6,250,000.  Bangor,  a  handsome  city,  on  the  Penobscot,  is  one 
of  the  great  lumber-marts  of  the  world.  Augusta,  the  capital,  is  a 
handsome  city  on  the  Kennebec  River,  with  a  great  water-power  and 
fine  public  buildings.  Biddeford  and  Saco  are  twin  cotton-manufac- 
turing cities.  Lewiston  and  Auburn  are  contiguous  cities,  with  many 
cotton-mills.  Around  the  beautiful  Penobscot  Bay  are  Rockland,  with 
its  active  coasting-fleet ;  Camden,  with  its  anchor-works  ;  Belfast 
once  famous  for  its  gallant  ships ;  and  Castine,  a  tranquil  village  and 
summer-resort,  surrounded  by  the  ruins  of  French,  British,  and 
American  forts.  Down  on  the  New-Brunswick  border  is  Calais,  with 
its  ship-yards  on  the  St.  Croix  ;•  Eastport,  perched  on  a  hilly  island  in 
Passamaquoddy  Bay ;  and  Lubec,  the  easternmost  American  village. 
In  Maritime  Trade,  Maine  stands  among  the  foremost  States. 
It  has  2, 500  vessels  ( 1 20  steamers),  of  500,  ooo  tons.  In  the  four  years, 
1882-5,  500  vessels  were  built  in  Maine,  with  a  tonnage  of  220,000.  Twenty  of  these  were 
of  above  2,000  tons  each.  Forfy  ship  yards  employ  2,000  men.  Many  Maine  ships  rarely 
revisit  her  shores,  after  sailing  away  flying  light,  but  spend  their  lives  carrying  cargoes  between 
distant  ports.  Bath,  on  its  magnificent  Long  Reach,  a  deep  and  land-locked  stretch  of  the 
Kennebec,  is  famous  wherever  blue  water  flows  for  its  staunch  vessels. 

In  fisheries,  Maine  is  second  only  to  Massachusetts,  with  450  vessels.  The  fish  caught 
are  cod,  mackerel,  hake,  haddock,  and  pollock.  The  Maine  waters  also  contain  shad,  smelt, 
salmon,  alewives,  flounders,  rock  cod,  and  cunners.  Fifteen  lobster  canneries  employ  600 
persons ;  and  others  prepare  small  herring  like  sardines.  There  are  6, 500  men,  mainly  on 
the  Kennebec  and  Penobscot,  who  cut  and  store  yearly  1,000,000  tons  of  ice  for  exportation. 

The  Railroads  of  Maine  began  ope- 
rations in  1836.  The  lines  from  Port- 
land to  Boston  are  owned  by  the  Boston 
&  Maine  Railroad,  the  Eastern  Division 
running  through  Portsmouth,  Newbury- 
port,  and  Salem  (108  miles),  and  the 
Western  Division  through  Dover,  Exeter, 
and  Haverhill  (116  miles).  The  Grand 
Trunk  line  runs  from  Portland  to  Mon- 
treal (297  miles),  and  beyond.  The  Can- 
adian Pacific  line  crosses  the  savage  wild- 
erness, from  Lake  Megantic  to  Moose- 
EASTPORT,  AND  PAS8AMAQUODDY  BAY.  x  head  Lake  and  the  Penobscot  River. 


BOON-ISLAND    LIGHT. 


THE  STATE   OF  MAINE. 


319 


The  elaborate  networks 
of  Maine  railways  are  nearly 
all  united  within  the  Maine 
Central  Railroad  system, 
operating  607  miles  in  the 
State  and  166  miles  out- 
side, with  assets  amount- 
ing to  $20,000,000.  Un- 
til recently  its  rails  were  entirely  within  the  State  of 
Maine,  from  Portland  east  to  the  Canadian  boundary, 
250  miles,  with  numerous  branches  from  the  parent  stem. 
Its  two  lines  from  Portland  to  Waterville,  one  following 
the  Kennebec  River,  the  other  along  the  Androscoggin, 
give  virtually  a  double  track  for  82  miles.  Since  Maine,  with  its  thousand  leagues  of 
glorious  rocky  sea  coast,  and  its  illimitable  area  of  game-haunted  forests  and  lakes,  has 
become  the  great  summer-park  of  the  Atlantic  States,  this  railway  has  afforded  the  best  of 
facilities  to  pleasure-travellers,  with  Pullman  vestibuled  trains,  and  safe  and  swift  service. 
It  reaches  most  of  the  cities  of  Maine,  and  sweeps  the  State  from  sea  to  Northern  forest. 
It  supplies  through-car  facilities  between  "the  States"  and  the  Maritime  Provinces.  A 
new  departure  is  the  lease  and  construction  of  lines  northwest  from  Portland,  attacking 
the  White  Mountains  at  their  most  inaccessible  point,  penetrating  the  "Heart  of  the 


PORTLAND  :     CITY     HALL. 


Notch"  through 
route  gives  the 
the  seaboard  of 
merce  of  Canada, 
ticut  River  and 


PORTLAND  1    UNION   STATION  :    MAINE  CENTRAL  RAILROAD. 


scenery  incomparable  east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  This 
best  facilities  for  travel  from  the  St.  Lawrence  valley  and 
Maine,  the  natural  winter  outlet  of  the  fast-growing  corn- 
Westward,  the  Maine  Central  leads  away  across  the  Connec- 
enters  Vermont,  where  connecting  lines  transport  through- 
cars  from  the  sea  at  Portland  to  Chicago,  by 
way  of  Lake  Champlain,  the  St.  Lawrence 
and  Niagara.  It  is  the  initial  line,  also  for  a 
through-car  route  to  Montreal  by  the  Can- 
adian Pacific  Railway,  and  by  extension  and 
lease  has  an  air-line  to  Quebec.  The  road 
has  been  very  successful,  and  its  phenomenal 
growth  in  mileage,  rolling-stock,  stations  and  train  equipment,  is  a  matter  which  warrants 
much  praise  to  its  efficient  management'.  The  Union  Station,  at  Portland,  ranks  with  the 
finest  in  America,  and  is  a  perfect  gem  in  architecture,  and  a  model  for  comfort  and 
convenience.  The  Maine  Central  also  operates  the  Portland,  Mount-Desert  &  Machias 
Steamboat  Line,  extending  eastward  from  Portland  to  Penobscot  Bay,  Mount-Desert  Island, 
and  the  farther  coast  of  Maine.  Altogether,  the  Maine 
Central  is  regarded  by  railroad  men  as  one  of  the  most 
successful  and  most  ably  managed  roads  in  the  country. 

Steamships. — The  beautiful  coast  of  Maine  was  served 
by  a  regular  steamship  line  as  early  as  1823, 
the    boats    running   from    Boston  to    Bath, 
Boothbay,  Camden,  Belfast,   Sedgwick,   and 
Eastport.     The  Bangor  line  began    to    run  / 
in  1833;  arjd  soon  afterward  Captain  San-  / 
a   new   line   between   Boston   and  Bangor. 


Steamship  Company  in  1882  changed  its 
ton  &  Bangor  Steamship  Company,  then 
the  presidency  and  management  of  William 
ton.  It  has  three  fine  and  comfortably  ap- 


BOSTON  &  BANGOR  STEAMSHIP  CO. 


ford  established 
The  San  ford 
name  to  the  Bos- 
and.  now  under 
H.  Hill,  of  Bos- 
pointed  vessels, 


320 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


AUBURN  :  ARA  CUSHMAN  COMPANY. 


the  Penobscot,  the  Katahdin,  and  the  Lewiston,  each  of  about  1,500  tons,  and  carrying  above 
500  passengers.  Every  week-day  one  of  these  leaves  Boston  and  Bangor,  passing  around  the 
granite  cliffs  of  Cape  Ann  ;  crossing  the  magnificent  Penobscot  Bay,  and  traversing  the  broad 
Penobscot  River.  The  steamships  touch  at  many  a  historic  point  on  the  Pine-Tree  coast 
—  Rockland,  whence  a  connecting  boat  runs  across  the  bay  to  Mount  Desert ;  Camden, 
nestling  under  high  mountains  ;  Northport,  with  its  breezy  camp-meeting  grounds  ;  Belfast, 

devastated  by  British  fleets;  Searsport,  back  of  Brigadier 
Island  ;  Fort  Point,  with  the  ruins  of  Fort  Pownall,  built 
in  1758;  Bucksport,  near  the  great  fortress  of  Fort  Knox; 
Winterport,  the  head  of  navigation  in  winter;  and 
Hampden.  The  Boston  &  Bangor  line  is  one  of  the 
most  successful  and  best  managed  routes  in  the  New- 
England  States. 

Manufactures. — Auburn  is  celebrated  for  its  shoe- 
factories,  which  have  drawn  hither  an  army  of  intelligent 
workmen.  The  largest  of  these  belongs  to  the  Ara 
Cushman  Company,  the  foremost  shoe-manufacturers 
in  Maine.  It  employs  1,000  hands,  occupying  three  ex- 
tensive four-story  buildings,  and  making  an  endless 
variety  of  boots  and  shoes  for  men,  youths,  and  boys. 
This  immense  business  is  the  outgrowth  of  the  little 
one-story  "tea  can"  shop  in  West  Minot,  where  Ara 
Cushman  in  1853  began  to  make  shoes,  doing  all  parts 
of  the  work  himself.  After  a  time,  he  began  to  drive 
about  through  Maine,  with  horse-loads  of  his  shoes  ;  and  soon  found  it  necessary  to  hire  men 
to  help  him,  and  to  enlarge  his  quarters.  In  1863  he  moved  to  Auburn;  and  in  1888  the 
business  was  incorporated,  with  Ara  Cushman  as  president  and  largest  stockholder.  The 
paid-in  capital  is  $400,000,  and  the  business  reaches  $1,500,000  a  year. 

The  paper-mills  of  Maine  have  long  been  celebrated  for  the  excellence  of  their  product. 
One  of  the  best  known  among  them  is  the  establishment  of  the  Poland  Paper  Company, 
employing  300  men  in  its  works  at  Mechanic  Falls  and  its  chemical  fibre  mill  at  Canton  ; 
and  turning  out  more  than  $1,000,000  worth  of  paper  yearly.  The  paper-making  at 
Mechanic  Falls  began  in  1851,  and  has  developed  slowly  and  surely,  until  now  the  group 
of  mills,  equipped  with  the  latest  and  best  devices  in  machinery,  and  provided  with  abund- 
ant clear  water  and  water-power,  can  make  daily  22  tons  of  fine  book  and  newspaper.  The 
president  of  the  Poland  Paper  Company  is  Arthur  Sewall,  of  Bath,  who  is  also  the  president 
of  the  Maine  Central  Railroad  ;  and  the  treasurer  is  Charles  R.  Milliken,  the  proprietor 
of  the  celebrated  Glen  House,  in  the  White  Mountains,  and  president  of  the  Portland  Roll- 
ing Mill.  Aside  from 
the  water-power  at  Me- 
chanic Falls,  the  com- 
pany owns  the  flowage 
privileges  of  three  large 
lakes,  several  miles  above 
their  mills,  where  the 
water  is  held  back  by- 
substantial  stone  dams, 
for  use  during  the  dry 
season.  The  importance  of  clear  water  is 
well  understood  by  paper  manufacturers, 
and  the  limpid  streams  of  New  England 
have  been  of  great  value  in  this  industry. 


MECHANIC 

FALLS  : 

MILLS   OF   THE 
POLAND    PAPER 

COMPANY. 


Settled  at  .  . 
Settled  in  .  . 
Founded  by  . 


One  of  the  Original  13  States. 
Population  in  1860, 


St.  Mary's. 
•  •  •  1634 
Englishmen. 


I'o 


687,049 
780,894 


934,943 
724,693 

2IO,  25O 
852,137 
82,806 

462,  !87 

472,756 

1,042,390 

824,149 

218,004 


1.093 
1,231 
2,167 


HISTORY. 

The    pleasant    shores  of 

Maryland  were    in  ancient 

times  the  dwelling-places  of 

the     powerful    Susquehan- 

nough  Indians,  a  seceded  and 

hostile    Iroquois    clan,  and 

of  several  Algonquin  tribes, 

connected  with  Powhatan's 

confederacy,  and  getting  an 

easy  livelihood  in  the  fisheries.  The  last  fragments  of  the 
Chesapeake  aborigines  now  dwell  in  Canada,  near  Lake  Erie. 
After  the  failure  of  his  Christian  colony  of  Avalon,  in 
Newfoundland,  Lord  Baltimore  visited  Virginia.  He  came 
originally  from  Yorkshire,  the  home  also  of  the  Fairfaxes  of 
Virginia  and  the  Wentworths  of  New  Hampshire  ;  and  in 
Parliament  had  distinguished  himself  as  the  friend  of  the 
King.  Hearing  that  the  northern  part  of  Virginia,  beyond 
the  Potomac,  was  a  fertile  and  valuable  country,  and  quite 
unoccupied  (save  by  tag-rag  Indians),  he  secured  it  for  him- 
self and  his  heirs,  as  a  county  palatine,  with  the  first  pro- 
prietary government  in  America,  and  the  most  liberal  privi- 
leges ever  granted  to  a  colony.  The  domain  belonged  to 
Virginia,  according  to  her  original  charter,  but,  as  the  lat- 
ter was  a  Royal  Province,  it  became  easy  for  the  King  to 
detach  this  section  for  his  friend.  The  charter  granted  by 
King  Charles  I.  to  the  moribund  Sir  George  Calvert,  the  first 
Lord  Baltimore,  was  issued  to  his  son,  Cecilius,  who  sent  his 
brother,  Leonard  Calvert,  to  colonize  the  country.  Fully  200 
persons,  gentlemen  adventurers  and  their  servants,  sailed  in 
the  Ark  and  the  Dove,  in  1633,  and  settled  at  St.  Mary's 
(near  Point  Lookout),  where  the  first  legislative  assembly 
met,  in  1635.  The  colonists  were  a  mixture  of  Protestants 
and  Catholics,  about  equally  divided.  Calvert  himself  was 
a  Catholic,  and  sent  with  them  two  Jesuit  priests ;  but  they 
bound  themselves  to  not  "directly  or  indirectly  trouble,  molest  or  discountenance  any  person 
whatsoever  in  the  Province  professing  to  believe  in  Jesus  Christ,  for  or  in  respect  of  his  or  her 
religion."  Such  mutual  forbearance  was  an  approach  toward  religious  freedom,  then  almost 


STATISTICS. 


MM) 

In  1870,    . 
In  1880,   . 
White, 

Colored 

American-born,  . 
Foreign-born,  .  . 
Males,  .... 
Females,  .  .  . 
1 1890  (U.  S.  Census), 
White,  ... 

Colored 

.  mlation  to  the  square  mile,      94.8 
Voting  Population,      .     .     .      131,106 
Vote  for  Harrison  (1888),        99,986 
Vote  for  Cleveland  (1888),     106, 168 
Net  State  Debt,      .     .    $2,724,123.56 
Real  and  Personal  Prop- 
erty,     $486,000,000 

Area  (square  miles),    .     .     .       12,210: 
U.  S.  Representatives  (1^93),  6  j 

Militia  (Disciplined),  .     .     .        2,036  i 

Counties, 23 

Post-offices,  .  . 
Railroads  (miles), 
Vessels,  .  .  . 

Tonnage, 141,431 

Manufactures  (yearly),    $106,771,393 

Operatives, 74.942 

Yearly  Wages,    .     .     .  $18,904,065 

Farm  Land  (in  acres),     .     .  5,185,221 

Farm-Land  Values,       $165,503,341 

Farm  Products  (yearly),  $28,839,281 

Public  Schools,  Average 

Daily  Attendance,  .     .     .       99,220 

Newspapers, 2O° 

Latitude,  .  .  .  37°53/  to  39°44'  N 
Longitude,  .  .  75°2'  to  79"3°/  w 
Temperature,  .  .  .  —6°  to  102° 
Mean  Temperature  (Baltimore),  54° 

TEN  CHIEF  PLACES  AND  THEIR  POPU- 
LATIONS.    (Census  of  1890.) 

Baltimore 434,439 

Cumberland,        12,720 

Hagerstown, 10,118 

Frederick, 8,193 

Annapolis,       .          ...  7,604 

4,192 
3,804 
3,244 
2,939 


Cambridge, 
Frostburg, 
Havre  de  Grace, 
Easton,  .     .     . 
Salisbury,   .     . 


2,905 


322 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED  STATES. 


CUMBERLAND. 


unknown  in  the  world ;  and,  although  there  were  stringent  laws  for  banishing  or  severely 
punishing  "vagabonds  called  Quakers,"  persons  denying  the  doctrines  of  the  Trinity,  etc., 
yet  many  of  different  denominations  sought  and  found  in  Maryland  a  safe  refuge  from  more 

rigorous  enactments  elsewhere.  Another  singular  ele- 
ment appeared,  when  the  New-England  Puritan  mission- 
aries, expelled  from  Virginia,  settled  at  Providence, 
which  afterwards  received  the  name  of  Anne  Arundel's 
Town  (and  later  of  Annapolis),  in  honor  of  Lord  Balti- 
more's wife,  the  daughter  of  the  Earl  of  Arundel.  This 
colony  increased  rapidly,  and  became  involved  in  the 
political  complications  in  England,  adhering  to  the  Pro- 
tectorate, while  the  Governor,  by  the  direction  of  Lord 
Baltimore,  adhered  to  the  party  of  the  King.  They  re- 
fused to  take  the  oath  of  allegiance  dictated  by  the  Gov- 
ernor, who  thereupon  with  200  men  attacked  Providence,  to  the  battle-cry  of  "Hey  for  St. 
Mary's."  The  Roundheads,  roaring  "In  the  name  of  God,  fall  on,"  brought  the  Royal- 
ists to  confusion,  slaying  or  wounding  50  men,  and  making  the  rest  captives.  Thus  on 
March  25,  1655,  occurred  the  first  land-battle  between  English-speaking  men  in  America, 
the  precursor  of  Saratoga  and  Lundy's  Lane,  of  Shiloh  and  Gettysburg. 

Lord  Baltimore  had  much  difficulty  with  Win.  Claiborne,  of  Virginia,  whose  trading- 
stations  on  the  Isle  of  Kent  and  Palmer's  Island  were  three  years  older  than  Maryland;  and  it 
was  only  after  nearly  half  a  century  of  proscriptions, 
battles  and  bloodshed  that  he  finally  prevailed  over  this 
valiant  pioneer.  During  the  Civil  War  in  England 
Richard  Ingle  captured  Maryland  for  the  Common- 
wealth, and  sent  its  Jesuit  priests  in  irons  to  England ; 
but  Gov.  Calvert  re- won  the  colony  in  1646.  In  1652 
and  1688  the  lord  proprietor's  government  was  overthrown 
by  Parliament,  incited  by  the  Puritans  of  Maryland,  but  Lord 
Baltimore  resumed  the  dominion  at  the  Restoration.  The  fourth 
Lord  Baltimore  became  a  Protestant,  and  in  1714  recovered  his  do- 
main, after  Maryland  had  been  a  Crown  colony  for  26  years.  Amid 
its  many  changes  of  government,  this  vigorous  province  grew  strong 
and  independent,  and  in  1774  finally  overthrew  its  feudal  proprietors. 

The  city  of  Baltimore  was  laid  out  in  1730,  and  Frederick  (named  for  Lord  Baltimore's  son) 
in  1745.  The  long  boundary  dispute  between  the  Baltimores  and  the  Penns  was  settled 
when  the  English  surveyors,  Mason  and  Dixon,  in  1763-7,  run  a  line  258  miles  westward  from 
the  Delaware,  marked  with  stone  mile-posts,  and  at  every  five  miles  bearing  the  sculptured 
arms  of  Maryland  and  Pennsylvania.  Human  slavery  never  flourished  north  of  this  line. 

At  the  outbreak  of  the  Revolution  the  State  came  into  action  with  the  foremost,  and  the 
valor  of  the  Maryland  Line  illuminated  many  a  battle-field.  The  chief  invasion  occurred  in 
1777,  when  Sir  Wm.  Howe  and  his  British  and  Hessian  army  of  13,000  men  sailed  up  the  bay 

and  landed  on  the  Elk  River,  whence  they  marched 
to  their  victorious  campaign  in  Pennsylvania. 
Maryland  refused  to  join  the  United  States  until 
the  Western  territories  were  surrendered  to  the 
Government  by  the  claimant  States,  and  when  this 
was  done  she  entered  the  Union,  in  1790.  The 
State  suffered  greatly  during  the  War  of  1812, 
when  Admiral  Cockburn  sailed  up  and  down  Ches- 
apeake Bay,  with  a  powerful  British  fleet,  andplun- 
BRIDGE.  dered  and  burned  Frenchtown,  Charlestown,  Fred- 


ON  THE  B.   &  O.  RAILROAD. 


THE   STATE   OF  MARYLAND. 


323 


HAVRE-DE-GRACE    BRIDGE,    OVER    THE    SUSQUE- 
HANNA    RIVER. 


ericktown,  Havre  de  Grace,  North  East  and  George- 
town. Her  militia  suffered  a  pitiable  defeat  at  Blad- 
ensburg.  Ross,  the  British  commander,  advanced 
against  Baltimore,  saying  that  he  did  not  care  if  "it 
rained  militia  ; "  but  the  local  volunteers,  with  a  Vir- 
ginia brigade  and  some  Pennsylvanian  companies,  gave 
him  a  strong  battle  at  North  Point.  He  won  the  field, 
but  lost  his  life  and  many  of  his  men.  Fort  McHenry, 
covering  the  approach  to  the  city  from  the  sea,  suc- 
cessfully endured  and  returned  a  bombardment  of  19 
hours,  from  Cockburn's  squadron,  and  during  this 
storm  of  fire  and  iron,  Francis  Scott  Key,  a  Marylander  imprisoned  on  the  fleet,  wrote  the 
noble  national  song,  "The  Star- Spangled  Banner."  Baltimore  escaped  capture. 

The  first  American  telegraph  was  built  from  Baltimore  to  Washington,  in  1844,  with  a 
Government  appropriation  of  $40,000;  and  the  first  message  over  the  wires  was:  "What 
hath  God  wrought  ?  " 

Although  a  slave  State,  Maryland  refused  to  join  in  the  Secession  movement.  The  Legis- 
lature convened  at  Frederick,  and  favored  neutrality.  The  local  Confederates  took  an 
active  part,  and  made  a  bold  attack  on  the  6th  Massachusetts  Infantry,  hurrying  through 
Baltimore  to  the  rescue  of  the  National  capital.  This  was  the  first  bloodshed  of  the  civil 

war.  They  also  burned  the  bridges  north  and  east 
of  Baltimore,  to  prevent  the  advance  of  National 
troops  to  Washington. 

After  Lee  had  defeated  McClellan  and  Pope  in 
1862,  he  threw  his  army  into  Maryland,  occupied 
Frederick,  and  summoned  the  people  to  rise  against 
the  Union.  But  the  Marylanders  refused ;  and 
McClellan,  hurrying  after  him,  stormed  the  passes  of 
South  Mountain,  and  hurled  the  70,000  men  of  the 
Army  of  the  Potomac  in  detachments  against  his 
40,000  troops,  in  position  behind  Antietam  Creek. 
The  military  prison  at  Point  Lookout  was  opened  in  July,  1863,  and  interned  more  than 
50,000  Confederate  captives  —  21,000  at  one  time.  After  defeating  the  Army  of  the  Poto- 
mac twice  on  the  Rappahannock,  in  1863,  Gen.  Lee  again  overran  western  Maryland, 
during  the  Gettysburg  campaign.  Once  more  the  Confederates  entered  the  State,  when 
Early  led  12,000  veterans  from  the  Valley  of  Virginia  to  seize  Washington;  and  Lew. 
Wallace,  held  him  in  check  at  the  Monocacy  long  enough  to  save  the  National  capital, 
losing  1,400  men  on  the  field.  McCausland's  Southern  cavalry  meanwhile  swept  through 
western  Maryland  into  Pennsylvania.  Finally,  Phil.  Sheridan  took  command  of  22,000 
foot  and  8,000  horse,  and  forced  the  Confederates  back  into  Virginia.  From  this  State 
46,638  soldiers  served  in  the  United- States  armies,  and  12,000  in  the  Confederate  forces.  A 
portion  of  these  troops  in  the  Southern  army  bore 
the  title  of  "The  Maryland  Line,"  and  by  their 
valor  proved  themselves  no  unworthy  descendants 
of  their  Revolutionary  sires.  Their  kinsmen  on  the 
Union  side  were  not  less  distinguished  for  bravery, 
and  some  of  the  most  obstinate  fighting  of  the  civil 
war  occurred  between  opposing  commands  from  this 
State.  Among  these  battle-episodes  one  of  the 

most  notable  was  the  bitter  fight  at  Front  Royal,  ir^fii 

Va.,  between  the  First  Maryland  Union  Regiment    | 
and  the  First  Maryland  Confederate  Regiment.          T55So?ASS!STS^aOHH  BRIDGE. 


WILLIAMSPORT,    ON    THE    POTOMAC. 


324 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE    UNITED   STATES. 


FIRST    PASSENGER    COACH    ON    THE 
BALTIMORE  &  OHIO  RAILROAD. 


The  Eastern  Shore  received  settlement  later  than  the  Western  Shore,  although  the  Indians 
migrated  at  an  early  date.  In  colonial  days,  "De  Esen  Sho'"  was  occupied  by  great  man- 
ors, with  massive  wide-hailed  mansions  of  English  brick,  whose  masters  were  famous  for 
their  hospitality  and  their  pedigrees,  and  shipped  their  tobacco 
and  their  eldest  sons  direct  to  England  from  the  wharves  on  their 
own  estates.  The  eight  Eastern  counties  all  had  old  English 
names,  and  their  gentry  were  punctilious  communicants  of  the 
Anglican  Church,  good  riders  and  enthusiastic  hunters,  and 
kindly  disposed  toward  the  plain  people  and  negroes.  When  the 
Revolution  broke  out,  Royalist  camps  sprang  up  all  through 
Worcester  and  Somerset  Counties  ;  and  it  took 
1,000  patriot  troops  to  scatter  them.  Four 
times  the  King's  men  rose  in  arms,  but  their 
Republican  neighbors  beat  them  down  as  often, 
besides  sending  to  the  Continental  army  the 
entire  Second  and  part  of  the  First  Regiment  of 
the  Maryland  Line,  and  hundreds  of  gallant 
riders  in  Pulaski's  Legion  and  Baylor's  horse. 
For  70  years  after  the  Revolution  the  Eastern  Shore  ran  down,  losing  in  population,  health 
and  fertility.  During  the  Civil  War,  many  of  its  people  were  fiery  Secessionists,  and  thou- 
sands of  them  enlisted  in  the  Confederate  army.  The  reforms  in  education,  farming  pro- 
cesses, live-stock  and  other  things  began  in  1850,  and  though  interrupted  by  the  war,  have 

since  gone  forward  hopefully.  

The  Name  of  the  Province,  given  by  King  Charles  | 
I.,  was  Terra  Maria,  or  Maryland,  in  honor  of  his  wife, 
Queen  Henrietta  Maria.  The  name  originally  intended 
was  Crescentia,  referring  probably  to  the  crescent  shape 
of  the  new  domain.  MARYLAND,  MY  MARYLAND, 
a  favorite  pet  name  for  the  State,  is  the  refrain  of  a 
song  written  by  J.  R.  Randall,  in  1860,  urging  her 
to  join  the  Southern  Confederacy.  The  melody  was 
the  famous  old  Laiiriger  Horatius.  Other  pet  names, 
now  nearly  forgotten,  are  THE  OLD-LINE  STATE  and 
THE  COCKADE  STATE.  The  old  Maryland  Line 
ranked  among  the  finest  bodies  of  troops  in  the  Continental  Army,  being  largely  made 
up  of  patrician  young  men,  and  held  in  admirable  discipline.  They  were  the  dandies  of 
the  army,  and  among  their  other  equipments  wore  brilliant  cockades.  The  very  flower  of 
these  troops,  Smallwood's  battalion,  was  led  by  Lord  Stirling  against  a  vastly  superior  force 
of  Corn wallis's  grenadiers,  charging  through  the  broken  American  lines  at  the  battle  of  Long 
Island.  The  Marylanders  checked  the  triumphant  onset  of  the  British  veterans  and  saved 
the  army,  but  in  a  brief  20  minutes  260  of  their  number  perished. 

The  Arms  of  Maryland  are  the  arms  of  Lord 
Baltimore,  six  pieces,  impaled,  quartered  with  crosses 
buttoned  at  each  end.  Above  is  a  count  palatine's  cap  ; 
and  the  crest  is  a  helmet,  a  ducal  crown,  and  two  half 
bannerets.  The  supporters  are  a  fisherman  and  a 
farmer.  The  motto  of  Maryland  is  that  of  the 
Calvert  family  :  FATTI  MASCHII,  PAROLE  FEMINE, 
an  Italian  proverb,  cited  in  the  great  Dictionary  of 
the  Accademia  della  Crusca,  thus:  "Deeds  are 
males,  and  words  females,"  and  implying  that  where 
RELAY  HOUSE  AND  WASHINGTON  VIADUCT.  deeds  are  needed,  words  will  not  suffice. 


PRINCE   GEORGE'S  I     MARYLAND   AGRICULTURAL 
COLLEGE. 


THE  STATE   OF  MARYLAND. 

The  Governors  of  Maryland  numbered  sixteen 
under  the  Proprietary  system  and  several  under  the 
Colonial,  besides  Parliament's  commissioners  and  the 
Council  of  Safety.  State:  Thos.  Johnston,  1777-9; 
Thos.  Sim  Lee,  1779-82;  Wm.  Paca,  1782-5;  Wm. 
Small  wood,  1785-8;  John  Eager  Howard,  1788-91; 
Geo.  Plater,  1791-2;  Thos.  Sim  Lee,  1792-4;  John 
Haskins  Stone,  1794-7;  John  Henry,  1797-8;  Benj. 
Ogle,  1798-1801;  John  Francis  Mercer,  1801-3;  Rob- 
ert Bowie,  1803-6  and  181 1-2;  Robert  Wright,  1806-9; 
Edw.  Lloyd,  1809-11;  Levin  Winder,  1812-5;  Chas. 
Ridgely,  1815-8;  Charles  Goldsborough,  1818-9;  Samuel 
Stevens,  Jr.,  1822-5;  Jos.  Kent,  1825- 


325 


EMMITTSBURG  :     MOUNT    ST. -MARY'S    COLLEGE. 


Sprigg,    1819-22 ;    Samuel 

Daniel  Martin,  1828-29  and   1831 ;  Thos.  King 

Carroll,  1829-30;  Geo.  Howard,  1831-4;  Jas.  Thomas,  1834-7;  Thos.  W.  Veazey,  1837-9; 
William  Grason,  1839-42;  Francis  Thomas,  1842-5;  Thos.  G.  Pratt,  1845-8;  Phil.  F. 
Thomas,  1848-51  ;  Enoch  Lewis  Lowe,  1851-4;  Thos.  Watkins  Ligon,  1854-8  ;  Thos.  Hol- 
liday  Hicks,  1858-62;  Aug.  W.  Bradford,  1862-5;  Thos.  Swann,  1865-8;  Oden  Bowie, 
1868-72;  Wm.  Pinkney  Whyte,  1872-4;  Jas.  B.  Groome,  1875-6;  John  Lee  Carroll, 
1876-80;  Wm.  T.  Hamilton,  1880-4;  Robert  M.  McLane,  1884-6;  Henry  Lloyd,  1 88 1 -8  ; 
Elihu  E.  Jackson,  1888-92  ;  and  Frank  Brown,  1892-6. 

Descriptive. — Maryland  is  one  of  the  most  eccentric  in  shape  of  the  States,  cut  into 
sections  by  Chesapeake  Bay  and  its  many  inlets,  and  bounded  for  a  long  distance  on  the 
south  by  the  much-winding  Potomac,  which  leaves  it  120  miles  wide  on  the  bay,  and  120 
miles  west  of  there  reduces  it  to  a  width  of  four  miles.  The  State  is  divided  into  the  East- 
ern Shore,  a  level  country,  east  of  Chesapeake  Bay,  abounding  in  vast  peach-orchards,  and 
with  quick  railway  communication  with  Philadelphia  and  New  York  ;  Southern  Maryland, 
the  seat  of  the  earliest  settlements,  with  its  level  and  naturally  fertile  lands,  now  exhausted, 
and  sold  at  low  prices ;  Central  Maryland,  including  the  thickly  settled  market-gardening 
and  manufacturing  counties  of  Baltimore,  Harford  and  Howard  ;  and  Western  Maryland, 
rich  in  mines  and  beautiful  with  mountains.  Southern  Maryland  embraces  the  tide-water 
counties  of  St.  Mary's,  Prince-George's,  Charles,  Calvert  and  Anne-Arundel,  an  angular 
peninsula  between  Chesapeake  Bay  and  the  Potomac  ,River.  In  general  physical  features 
it  resembles  the  Eastern  Shore.  The  climate  is  mild  and  delightful,  and  the  scenery  along 
the  creeks  is  pleasant,  with  a  very  varied  and  luxuriant  vegetable  growth. 

Chesapeake  Bay,  the  chief  physical  feature  of  Maryland,  is  the  largest  American  inlet  of 
the  sea,  being  fully  200  miles  long,  and  navigable  for  the  heaviest  ships.  At  its  mouth,  be- 
tween Cape  Charles  and  Cape  Henry,  the  width  is  twelve  miles,  and  higher  up,  near  the  Poto- 
mac, it  reaches  20  miles.  It  contains  many  islands,  and  covers  2,835  square  miles,  with  more 
than  400  miles  of  coast  line.  The  Susquehanna  River,  emptying  near  the  head  of  the  bay, 
is  navigable  for  only  four  or  five  miles.  The  estuaries 
which  open  away  from  the  Chesapeake  into  tide-water 
Maryland  and  Virginia  are  of  remarkable  diversity. 
The  Light- House  Board  has  24  lights  on  the  bay,  with- 
in the  Maryland  lines,  with  eleven  in  the  Patapsco 
River,  and  seven  in  the  Potomac.  Chesapeake  is  from 
the  Algonquin  Gitchi,  or  Kichi,  "  Great,"  and  Sipi,  or 
Sipik,  "Water."  The  bay  abounds  in  edible  fish; 
and  its  shores,  haunted  by  canvas-back  ducks  and 
other  game-birds,  afford  a  favorite  hunting-ground  for 
enthusiastic  sportsmen,  especially  during  the  autumn. 
Terrapin  are  found  in  perfection  in  these  waters ;  and 
the  black  and  striped  bass  of  Port  Deposit  and  Tred-  ANNAPOLIS:  ST.-JOHN-S  COLLEGE. 


CRISFIELD  :    OYSTER  FLEET. 


HANDBOOK  OF    THE    UNITED   STATES. 

avon,  the  moccason  of  Spesutia  Island,  the  white 
perch  of  Betterton,  the  sheepshead  of  Oxford,  the 
herring  of  the  lower  Potomac,  the  bay  mackerel  of 
the  Choptank,  and  the  weak-fish  of  Crisfield,  are  of 
famed  excellence.  The  oyster-beds  have  a  great 
value,  and  cover  immense  areas  in  the  estuaries  and 
inlets,  certain  exempted  grounds  of  which  are  pro- 
tected against  the  depredations  of  Virginian  dredgers 
by  a  fleet  of  small  armed  vessels,  maintained  by 
Maryland,  but  often  eluded  or  resisted,  and  some- 
times driven  away.  Baltimore  is  the  chief  oyster- 
packing  city  of  the  world.  The  Chesapeake  oysters  are  the  finest  known,  and  the  yearly  pro- 
duct is  15,000,000  bushels,  more  than  half  of  which  is  shipped  from  Cambridge,  Crisfield  and 
other  places  on  the  Eastern  Shore.  The  shad  and  herring  fisheries  of  Cecil  and  Harford  have 
a  great  value,  and  employ  many  men.  The  Alleghany  streams  have  been  successfully  stocked 
with  the  celebrated  California  rainbow  trout.  At  Bal- 
•timore  is  the  A.  Booth  Packing  Co.'s  main  establish- 
ment, where  oysters,  fruits  and  vegetables  are  packed 
in  cans  in  enormous  quantities. 

The  Potomac  River  rises  in  the  Alleghanies,  and 
flows  through  a  maze  of  mountains  to  Harper's  Ferry. 
At  the  Great  Falls  it  descends  80  feet  in  I  j  miles,  40 
feet  being  in  a  single  plunge,  amid  rocky  islands,  and 
then  it  traverses  the  Little  Falls,  a  line  of  rapids  falling  BALTIMORE  :  A.  BOOTH  PACKING  co. 

37  feet.  In  this  vicinity  the  noble  aqueduct  supplying  Washington  with  water  from  Great 
Falls  crosses  Cabin-John  Bridge,  a  beautiful  granite  span  of  220  feet,  and  the  longest  stone 
arch  in  the  world.  Fifteen  miles  below  the  falls  is  the  city  of  Washington,  380  miles  from 
the  source  of  the  river,  and  io6|  miles  from  Chesapeake  Bay.  This  lower  reach  of  the 

Potomac  is  navigable  for  large  vessels,  and  finally 
enters  the  bay  by  a  low-shored  estuary  7^  miles 
wide.  The  Patuxent  River,  famous  for  its  oyster- 
beds,  is  navigable  for  46  miles ;  the  Patapsco, 
for  14  miles ;  and  the  Choptank  and  Nanti- 
coke  for  several  leagues  each. 

The  Eastern  Shore  is  that  part  of  Maryland 
east  of  Chesapeake  Bay,  largely  a  fertile  alluvial 
plain  of  light  sandy  loam   and  clay,  free    from 
stones,  dotted  with  forests  of  oak  and  chestnut, 
and  traversed  by  the  estuaries   of  the  Choptank, 
Pocomoke,  Nanticoke,  Chester  and  Elk  Rivers. 
Nearly  4,000  out  of  the  5,980  square  miles  of  the 
peninsula  between  Chesapeake  Bay  and  Delaware 
Bay  belongs  to  Maryland,  forming  nine  counties. 
Along  the  harborless  ocean-side  of  the  Eastern 
Shore,  33  miles  long,  extends  the  shallow  lagoon 
of  Assateague  (Synepuxent)  Bay,  with  a  narrow 
AND   sand-strip  outside.     Ocean  City,  the  leading  sea- 
shore resort,  stretches  its  hotels  and  cottages  along 
,  with  the  gently  sloping  beach  on  one  side,  and  on 
the  still  waters  of  the  bay.     On  the  Chesapeake  side 
the  summer-resorts  are  Oxford  and  Fair  Haven,  Tolchester  and  Bay  Ridge. 

Wheat,  corn,  oats,  rye   and  barley  grow  here,  and  melons,  peaches,  strawberries  and 


THE  STATE   OF  MARYLAND. 


327 


CATOCTIN  :     THE    POTOMAC    RIVER. 


other  fruits.    Stock-raising  and  dairy-farming  are  also  becoming  important 
industries.    The  marl-beds  afford  abundant  supplies  of  fertilizing  material. 

The  western  shore  of  tide-water  Maryland  lies  between 
the  Potomac,  just  above  Washington,  and  the  Susquehanna, 
including  the  west  inlets  of  the  Chesapeake.  For  the  most 
part  this  region  consists  of  rolling  plains,  rising  in  the 
south  to  the  cliffs  of  the  Patuxent.  It  covers  3,968  square 
miles,  including  Howard,  Montgomery,  Baltimore,  Har- 
ford,  Carroll  and  Frederick  Counties.  West  of  the  tide- 
water region  Maryland  rises  gradually  to  the  great  Blue  Ridge  and  the  Alleghany  Mountains, 
a  series  of  long  ridges  parallel  with  the  coast,  and  enclosing  beautiful  valleys  20  miles  or 
more  in  width.  The  mountains  begin  beyond  Frederick  with  the  long  Catoctin  Range  and 
South  Mountain,  and  extend  to  the  west  frontier,  the  main  Alleghany  range  lying  just  west 
of  Cumberland.  South  Mountain  ends  with  the  towering  escarpment  of  Maryland  Heights, 
1,456  feet  high,  overlooking  Harper's  Ferry  and  the  confluence  of  the  Potomac  and  Shenan- 
doah  Rivers,  and  the  seat  of  formidable  batteries  during  the  Secession  War.  Between  South 
and  Catoctin  Mountains  opens  the  lovely  Middletown  Valley,  at  whose  head  stand  the  sum- 
mer-resorts of  Penmar  and  the  Blue-Mountain  House,  2,000  feet  above  the  sea,  and  com- 
manding a  view  far  up  the  Cumberland  Valley  into  Pennsylvania.  High  Rock  overlooks 

parts  of  four  States,  scores  of  historic  towns,  and  the 
grand  outlines  of  the  Blue   Ridge  and  the  Potomac 
Valley.    The  Glades  is  a  plateau  of  400  square  miles 
on  top  of  the  Alleghany  Mountains,  2, 500  feet  above 
the  sea,  beginning  at  Altamont.     In  this  lofty  region 
are  the  summer  resorts  of  Deer  Park,  Mountain-Lake 
Park  and  Oakland,  along  the  Baltimore  &  Ohio  Rail- 
road.   Braddock's  Road  was  built  in  1755,  from  Alex- 
andria ( Va. )  to  Cumberland  and  Frostburg,  and  north 
into  Pennsylvania,  to  pass  the  British  army  to  their 
fatal  battle  near  Pittsburgh.    Much  of  it  may  still  be 
traced,  and  the  forts  erected  along  the  route  are  partly 
VLEYSBURG  BRIDGE,  ON  THE  B.  &  o,  R.  R.       preserved.     The  National  Road,   from  Baltimore  to 
Ohio,  was  constructed  early  in  this  century,  for  a  highway  between  the  Ohio  and  tide-water. 
The  Climate  of  the  State  is  temperate  and  salubrious,  except  on  the  waterside  low- 
lands, where  miasma  sometimes  prevails.     The  penetration  of  the  land  by  Chesapeake  Bay 
and  its  many  estuaries  gives  a  certain  marine  softness  to  the  air  and  temperature. 

The  Farm-Products  of  Maryland  include  yearly  16,000,000  bushels  of  corn,  6,000,- 
ooo  of  wheat,  2,000,000  of  oats,  2,500,000  of  potatoes,  300,000  tons  of  hay,  and  28,000,000 
pounds  of  tobacco,  the  whole  valued  at  nearly  $40,000,000. 
Peaches,  strawberries,  and  other  delicate  fruits  grow  amain 
in  the  fertile  lowlands.  It  ranks  as  the  -^^-v^ 

seventh  state  in  the  growth  of  tobacco, 
and  at  one  time  the  crop  of  Prince-George 
County  was  the  largest  in  the  Union. 

Farming   utilizes  more  than  half  the 
soil  of  Maryland.     Harford  County  alone 
has  400  houses  engaged  in  canning  fruits 
and  vegetables,  their  product  reaching 
1,000,000  cases  a  year.   There  are  850,000 
head  of  live-stock;  and  the  mutton  and  * 
dairy-products  of  the  hill-counties  are  of  famed  excellence.    The  peaches,  melons  and  straw- 
berries of  the  Eastern  Shore  are  sent  in  vast  quantities  to  the  city-markets. 


328  KlfFG\S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED  STATES. 

Minerals. — The  coal-mines  consist  of  horizontal  strata,  like  the  Big  Seam  of  George's 
Creek,  14  feet  thick,  between  Dan's  Mountain  and  Savage  Mountain.  This  coal-basin  is  30 
miles  long  and  five  miles  wide,  and  contains  many  villages  of  Welsh  and  Scottish  miners. 
Much  of  the  valuable  Cumberland  semi-bituminous  coal  comes  from  near  Frostburg, 
2,300  feet  high  i  on  Savage  Mountain.  The  Cumberland  coal  is  jet-black,  glossy  and 
, .  ^  friable,  and  makes  a  good  steam  fuel.  Mining  began  in  1842, 
r^--.-^  and  17  companies  ship  2,500,000  tons  yearly. 

Mineral  products  include  chrome  iron  of  the  Bare  Hills, 
specular  iron  of  Sykesville,  and  zinc,  iron  and  copper  of  the 
Frederick  region.  There  are  22  blast-furnaces,  making  from 
20,000  to  60,000  tons  of  iron  yearly.  The  Maryland  quar- 
ries produce  brecciated  marble,  slate,  sandstone,  limestone, 
porphyry,  tripoli,  marl  and  kaolin.  The  Maryland  serpen- 
tine (or  green  marble)  and  the  black  serpentine  of  Harford 
BALTIMORE  :  CATHOLIC  CATHEDRAL.  County  are  used  in  ornamental  work.  Grindstones,  mill- 
stones and  hones  are  made  from  the  local  buhr-stone ;  epsom  salts,  from  magnesite  found 
here ;  lime,  from  the  quarries  in  Baltimore  County ;  mica  comes  from  Howard  County,  and 
granite,  from  Port-Deposit ;  and  Northeast  has  active  fire-brick,  kaolin  and  pottery  works. 
Much  of  the  marble  used  in  building  the  National  Capitol  came  from  Baltimore  County.  The 
State  has  many  mineral  waters,  the  chief  being  Carroll  White- Sulphur  Springs. 

The  Government  consists  of  a  quadrennially  elected  governor;  several  executive  officers; 
the  biennial  General  Assembly,  composed  of  26  senators  and  91  delegates  ;  and  the  Court  of 
Appeals,  and  minor  courts.  The  State  Constitution 
dates  from  1867.  The  State  House  at  Annapolis 
dates  from  1773,  and  overlooks  Chesapeake  Bay  and 
the  Severn  River.  It  is  a  large  brick  structure  of 
graceful  proportions,  crowned  by  a  dome,  and  sur-  I  fSS^JI 
rounded  by  pleasant  enwalled  grounds.  It  contains  I  HBdlip 

several  historical  paintings,  and  portraits  of  the  gov- 
ernors and  the  four  Maryland  signers  of  the  Declara- 
tion of  Independence.  In  the  Senate  Chamber,  Gen. 
Washington  resigned  his  commission  as  commander 
of  the  army.  The  State  Library  numbers  80,000  volumes.  The  Treasury  is  a  venerable 
building  near  the  State  House,  once  the  home  of  the  old  Provincial  Assembly.  The  Record 
Office  holds  the  archives  of  Maryland.  Government  House  is  the  official  home  of  the  gov- 
ernors. The  militia  is  composed  of  one  regiment  and  five  companies  of  infantry,  and  five 
companies  of  cavalry.  The  State  Penitentiary  at  Baltimore  has  above  600  convicts,  a  ma- 
jority of  them  colored.  The  Institution  for  the  Education  of  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  was  opened 
in  1868  at  Frederick.  Colored  deaf-mutes  and  blind  persons  have  their  asylum  at  Baltimore. 
The  Maryland  Institution  for  the  Instruction  of  the  Blind,  near  Baltimore,  has  250  inmates. 
The  Maryland  Hospital  for  the  Insane,  at  Catonsville,  known  as  the  Spring-Grove  Asylum, 
six  miles  from  Baltimore,  is  an  immense  structure  of  Ellicott- 
City  granite,  facing  the  Patapsco  River  and  Chesapeake  Bay, 
and  also  the  Blue  Ridge.  Near  Baltimore  are  the 
huge  Bay- View  Asylum,  the  House  of  Refuge  for 
vagrant  and  vicious  children  of  both  sexes,  the 
Mount-Hope  Asylum  (Catholic),  and  many  kindred 
institutions.  The  McDonogh  Foundations,  from  a 
bequest  of  nearly  $1,000,000,  have  been  utilized  in 
a  large  farm-school  for  boys  of  the  virtuous  poor, 
twelve  miles  from  Baltimore. 
BLIND  ASYLUM.  The  Maryland  Confederate  Home  occupies  the 


ND    POTOMAC    RIVER. 


THE  STATE   OF  MARYLAND. 


329 


BALTIMORE  : 
ENOCH-PRATT  FREE  LIBRARY. 


fine  old  Arsenal  buildings  and  park  at  Pikesville,  six  miles  from  Baltimore,  and  has  33  in- 
mates, mainly  old  soldiers  of  Lee's  Army  of  Northern  Virginia. 

Education,  served  by  sufficient  State,  county  and  local  taxes,  is  supervised  by  a  State 
Board  of  Education.  Colored  children  have  separate  schools.  The  State  Normal  School 
and  the  Howard  Normal  School  (for  colored  students)  were  established 
at  Baltimore  in  1865.  The  Maryland  Agricultural  College  has  a  farm  of 
286  acres,  in  Prince-George  County,  eight  miles  from  Washington  ;  and 
its  buildings  on  College  Hill  command  a  noble  view.  Chartered  in 
1856  and  opened  in  1859,  it  is  the  second  existing  college  of  agri- 
culture founded  in  America.  The  farm  and  buildings  were  paid  for 
by  liberal  citizens  ;  and  the  college  thus  founded  afterwards  received 
State  and  Government  aid,  on  condition  that  the  students  form  a  bat- 
talion of  cadets,  clad  in  gray  West-Point  suits.  One  of  its  depart- 
ments, the  Maryland  Agricultural  Experiment  Station,  publishes  and 
distributes  free  valuable  bulletins  and  reports. 

Johns-Hopkins  University,  endowed  by  its  founder  with  $3,000,- 
ooo,  and  incorporated  in  1867,  was  opened  at  Baltimore  in  1876,  to 
afford  collegiate  education,  and  also  (and  mainly)  the  higher  uni- 
versity education  for  college-graduates.  It  is  perhaps  the  culmina- 
tion of  American  educational  systems;  and  has  also  exerted  a  profound  influence  upon  the 
young  men  of  Maryland,  who  are  turning  toward  their  renowned  university,  as  a  noble  substi- 
tute for  the  field-sports  and  the  careless  life  of  earlier  days.  More  than  half  of  the  students 
have  graduated  at  other  colleges,  largely  those  of  the  South  and  West.  The  university  has 
55  instructors  and  400  students,  including  60  from  the  South  (besides  Maryland's  185),  40 
from  the  Middle  States,  25  from  New  England,  and  25  foreigners. 
There  are  15  free  scholarships  eligible  for  students  from  each  of 
the  States  of  Maryland,  Virginia  and  North  Carolina.  Among  the 
students  are  9  doctors  of  philosophy,  22  doctors  of  medicine,  17 
clergymen,  and  2 1 8  holders  of  other  degrees.  The  courses  of  study 
are  History  and  Political  Science,  with  162  students  ;  Chem- 
istry, 124;  German,  119;  English  and  Anglo-Saxon,  94;  Mathe- 
matics and  Astronomy,  82;  Biology,  81;  Drawing,  78;  Physics, 
74 ;  Romance  Languages  and  Latin,  69  ;  Greek,  58  ;  Elocution, 
53 ;  Logic,  Ethics  and  Psycology,  48  ;  Semitic  Languages,  43 ; 
Sanscrit,  39;  Mineralogy,  38;  and  Pathology,  24.  The  Amer- 
ican Journal  of  Mathematics,  American  Chemical  Journal,  Amer- 
ican Journal  of  Philology,  and  other  learned  publications  are 
issued  under  the  auspices  of  the  University.  The  library  contains 
BALTIMORE  :  N.ETHODIST  CHURCH.  3S)OOO  volumes  ;  and  the  collections  in  mineralogy,  physics  and 
mathematics  have  great  value.  Warner  &  Swasey,  of  Cleveland  (Ohio),  designed  and  built 
the  9|-inch  equatorial  telescope  and  the  21 -foot  steel  dome.  The  Johns-Hopkins  Hospital 
occupies  a  commanding  site  with  a  magnificent  E-shaped  group  of  17  buildings,  of  brick  and 
Cheat  River  blue-stone,  occupying  an  estate  of  141  acres  on  Broadway. 
It  was  endowed  by  Johns  Hopkins  with  $3,400,000,  and 
opened  its  doors  in  1889.  The  capacity  is  400  patients; 
and  the  details  of  the  buildings  and  corridors,  heating  and 
ventilation  are  the  results  of  years  of  study  of  European  hos- 
pitals, and  the  councils  of  distinguished  American  doctors. 
It  is  the  largest  hospital  in  America,  and  perfect  as  any  in 
the  world.  Here,  also,  is  a  nurses'  training-school,  with 
a  course  of  several  years,  including  medical  instruction, 
preparing  women  for  hospital,  family  or  district  nursing.  BALTIMORE  :  ST. -PAUL'S  CHURCH. 


33° 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE    UNITED   STATES. 


St. -John's  College  traces  its  inception  to  the  year  1671,  when  the  General  Assembly 
of  Maryland  ordered  the  foundation  of  a  school  or  college  for  the  education  of  youth 
in  learning  and  virtue.  The  result  was  King  William's  School,  opened  in  1701,  and  sub- 
sequently merged  into  St. -John's  College,  which  began  its  teachings  in  1789.  Among  its 
graduates  were  Wm.  Pinkney,  Reverdy  Johnson,  and  Francis  Scott  Key  (author  of  "The 
Star- Spangled  Banner").  The  college  was  closed  (and  used  as  a  military  hospital)  dur- 
ing the  Secession  War.  It  is  largely  patronized  by  Episcopal  families.  The  emerald  green 
campus  of  20  acres,  between  College  Avenue  and  College  Creek,  and  near  the  Severn  River 
and  the  United- States  Naval  Academy,  has  the  venerable  colonial  McDowell  Hall  in  the 

Pinkney  Hall,  Humphrey 
are  twelve  instructors  and 
gray  -  uniformed  battalion 
artillery  drill  and  tactics. 
town,  was  formed  from 
and  Gen.  Washington 
consented  to  its  being 
its  benefactors  and  officers, 
at  Colora,  dates  from  1 741. 
Westminster.  Mount  St.  - 


centre,    flanked   by    the      ivy-clad 
Hall,  and  other  buildings.     There 
92   students,  the  latter  forming  a 
of  cadets,  instructed  in  infantry  and 
Washington  College,  at  Chester- 
the  old  Kent  Free  School,  in  1783; 
(then   encamped     at     Newburgh) 
named  for  him,  and  became  one  of 
The  West-Nottingham  Academy, 
Western  Maryland    College   is  at 
Mary'sCollege,  founded  at  Emmitts- 
burg  in  1808,  has  a  group  of  stone 
buildings  at  the  foot  of  the  Blue 
Ridge,    two  miles  from   the  cele- 
brated Academy    of    St.    Joseph's  (for    young 
ladies)  and  the  mother-house  of  the  Sisters  of 
Charity,  founded  by  Madame  Seton.     Its  gradu- 
ates include  Cardinal  McCloskey,  Archbishops 
Hughes  and  Purcell  and  many  other  eminent  pre- 
lates, statesmen  and  scholars.     The  College  has 
137  students  and  the  ecclesiastical  seminary  has 
3 1 .     Other  Catholic  schools  are  St.  -Charles  Col- 
lege, near  Ellicott   City,  preparatory  to  St.-Sul- 
pice  Seminary    and    St. -Mary's    University,   at 

Baltimore ;  Rock-Hill  College,  at  Ellicott  City ;  and  Woodstock  College,  for  the  education 
of  young  Jesuits,  with  a  three-years'  philosophical  and  a  four-years'  theological  course.  The 
library  contains  65,000  volumes.  Here  the  young  Jesuits  of  all  America  receive  the  tra- 
ditional principles  and  discipline  of  the  Order  of  Jesus,  with  a  thorough  higher  education. 
The  Scholasticate  of  the  Congregation  of  the  Most  Holy  Redeemer  is  at  Ilchester. 

Mary  Garrett  has  recently  erected  at  Baltimore,  for  the  Bryn-Mawr  Preparatory  School 
for  girls,  a  costly  fire-proof  building,  in  whose  construction  large  quantities  of  imported 
colored  and  glazed  \  brick  were  used.  The  Baltimore  City  College,  the 

crown    of    the    local      [  I    public-school  system,  occupies  a  picturesque  build- 

ing in  collegiate  Gothic  architecture. 
The  Centenary  Biblical  Institute  of  the 
Methodist  Church  is  at  Balti- 
more. The  School  of  Law  of 
the  University  of  Maryland  has 
90  students ;  and  its  School  of 
Medicine  (founded  in  1868) 
has  235.  Baltimore  has  four 
other  medical  and  dental 

BALTIMORE  ;    JOHNS-HOPKINS    HOSPITAL.  Colleges. 


BALTIMORE  :     JOHNS-HOPKINS    UNIVERSITY. 


THE  STATE   OF  MARYLAND. 


331 


THE    CITY    HALL. 


The  Peabody  Institute,  at  Baltimore,  endowed  in  1857  by  George  Peabody  with 
$1,300,0x30,  occupies  a  white  marble  building  in  Grecian  architecture,  beautifully  situated. 
The  library  contains  100,000  volumes,  mainly  those  not  accessible  elsewhere  ;  and  is  free  to 
all  readers.  In  the  gallery  of  art  the  best  specimens  of 
sculpture  are  duplicated,  with  many  valuable  pictures.  Its 
conservatory  of  music  instructs  250  students.  Its  symphonies, 
piano  recitals  and  choral  concerts,  are  at  nominal  prices.  It 
furnishes  about  100  free  lectures  by  eminent  specialists  each 
year.  George  Peabody  also  founded  the  Peabody  Education 
Fund,  now  exceeding  $2,000,000,  and  ably  managed  by  a 
distinguished  board  of  trustees,  including  Robert  C.  Win-  fj 
throp,  Rutherford  B.  Hayes,  Grover  Cleveland,  Wm.  M. 
Evarts,  Hamilton  Fish,  Samuel  A.  Green,  and  other  distin- 
guished men.  The  income  of  about  $100,000  a  year  is  devoted  to  education  in  the  South, 
and  over  $2,000,000  has  thus  been  expended. 

The  Enoch-Pratt  Free  Library  at  Baltimore  was  founded  in  1882,  with  $1,250,000,  by 
Enoch  Pratt,  a  native  of  Massachusetts,  and  for  50  years  a  Baltimore  merchant.  Its  hand- 
some and  fire-proof  marble  building,  opened  in  1886,  contains  a  grand  reading-room  and 
85,000  volumes  ;  and  there  are  five  branch  libraries  in  various  sections  of  the  city.  The 
revenues  of  the  library's  fund  of  $833,333  m  cash,  invested  at  six  per  cent.,  guaranteed  by 
the  city,  reach  $50,000  a  year.  Nearly  500,000  books  are  issued  yearly  to  42,000  Baltimore 
families.  The  Maryland  Institute  for  the  Promotion  of  Mechanic  Arts  has  a  commodious 

building  in  Baltimore,  with  schools  of  art  and  design  and 
commerce,  lecture-courses,  night-schools,  and  400  students. 
The  library  contains  26,000  volumes.  The  Maryland 
Episcopal  Library  has  18,000  volumes;  the  Archiepisco- 
pal,  16,000;  the  New  Mercantile,  40,000;  the  Bar  As- 
sociation, 12,000;  and  there  are  several  other  large  col- 
lections in  Baltimore.  The  private  art  collections  of  Wil- 
liam T.  Walters  include  200  exceptionally  fine  paintings, 
and  magnificent  bronzes,  statuary  and  ceramics.- 

The  title  of  "Monumental  City"  is  justly  applied  to 
Baltimore.  The  Washington  Monument,  erected  1816-30, 
is  a  column  of  Maryland  marble,  1 80  feet  high,  crowned  by  a  statue  of  the  first  President. 
Battle  Monument,  commemorating  the  Baltimoreans  who  were  killed  in  defending  the  city 
against  the  British,  in  1814,  is  a  small  Egyptian  temple  of  marble,  supporting  a  colossal 
fasces,  on  which  stands  a  statue  representing  the  city  of  Baltimore,  with  a  mural  crown, 
and  bearing  a  laurel  wreath.  Here,  too,  is  the  Odd-Fellows'  (or  Wildey)  Monument ; 
the  McDonogh  statue ;  and  the  memorial  to  James  L.  Ridgely,  grand  secretary  of  the 
I.  O.  O.  F.  from  1840  to  1 88 1.  In  1890  the  municipality  received  a  bronze  statue  of  George 
Peabody,  by  W.  W.  Story.  Mount-Vernon  Place  has  a 
statue  of  Chief- Justice  Taney,  the  gift  of  William  T. 
Walters,  and  a  noble  group  of  bronzes,  including  Barye's 
"War,"  "Peace,"  "Order,"  and  "Force,"  and  P. 
Dubois's  "Military  Courage."  At  Annapolis  the  State 
has  erected  Rinehart's  colossal  sitting  bronze  statue  ot 
Roger  B.  Taney,  Chief-Justice  of  the  United  States  from 
1836  to  1846  ;  also,  Congress,  in  1886,  placed  here  a  noble 
statue  of  the  Baron  de  Kalb,  who  was  mortally  wounded 
while  commanding  the  Maryland  Line,  at  the  battle  of 
Camden  (S.  C.),  in  1780.  The  granite  monument  to 
Gen.  Reno,  on  the  South-Mountain  battle-field,  and  the  BALTIMORE  ;  BRYN-MAWR  SCHOOL. 


BALTIMORE  :     PEABODY    INSTITUTE. 


332 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED  STATES. 


BALTIMORE  :    STREET  BRIDGE  OVER  B.  &  O.  R.  R. 


colossal  statue  in  the  National  Cemetary  at  Antietam, 
are  among  the  memorials  of  the  Secession  War. 

The  Catholics  have  130  churches  in  Maryland,  and 
Cardinal  Gibbons,  the  Archbishop  of  Baltimore,  is  the 
Primate  of  the  Church  for  America.  His  house  is  con- 
tiguous to  the  famous  old  Baltimore  Cathedral,  a  som- 
bre and  massive  granite  pile,  with  a  classic  portico,  the 
Cathedral  and  the  Archiepiscopal  residence  occupying 
a  half  square.  The  Methodists  of  Maryland  have  upwards  of  1,000  churches,  with  a  mem- 
bership of  100,000.  The  Protestant-Episcopal  diocese  of  Maryland  includes  170  churches, 
with  22,000  communicants.  The  Lutherans  have  120  churches;  the  Baptists,  80 ;  the 
Presbyterians,  60. 

Newspapers. —  The  first  newspaper,  The  Maryland  Gazette,  was  published  at  Annap- 
olis from  1745  until  1839.  The  Maryland  Journal  and  Baltimore  A  dvertiser,  founded  in 
1773,  changed  its  name  in  1820  to  the  Baltimore  American,  and  is  still 
published.  The  head  and  front  of  Maryland  journalism  is  the  Balti- 
more Sun,  published  by  A.  S.  Abell  &  Co.,  daily  and  weekly,  and  an 
independent  national  conservative,  enterprising  and  reliable 
newspaper,  with  bureaus  in  the  leading  news-centres  of  the 
Union,  and  an  admirable  system  of  departments.  The  first 
rotary  printing  machine  was  used  by  The  Sun,  which  also  re- 
ceived and  printed  the  first  document  transmitted  by  telegraph. 
The  attractive  iron-front  building  occupied  by  this  paper  was 
the  first  iron  structure  erected,  and  is  the  home  of  a  large  body 
of  trained  writers.  In  1836  Arunah  S.  Abell  and  two  other 
practical  printers  founded  the  Public  Ledger,  at  Philadelphia ; 
and  a  year  later  Mr.  Abell  founded  The  Sun,  and  identified 
himself  with  Baltimore  and  this  paper,  which  he  managed  with 
signal  ability  and  success.  When  he  died,  in  1888,  full  of  years  and  honors,  The  Sun 
passed  under  the  control  of  his  sons  and  co-partners,  who  had  personally  labored  with  him 
in  the  creation  and  development  of  the  great  newspaper  which  it  has  grown  to  be.  In  their 
hands  The  Sun  promises  to  be  even  more  influential  in  the  future  than  in  the  past,  as  a  factor 

as  well  as  exponent  of  enlightened  public  opinion.    As 
a  leading  newspaper  in  a  Democratic  State,  with  a  large 
circulation  beyond  its  borders,  and  published  within  a 
distance  which  is  covered  in  less  than  an  hour  from  the 
National  Capital,  where  its  office  is  one  of  the  most 
striking  and  beautiful  business  build- 
ings that  adorn  that    city,   The  Sun 
enjoys  exceptional  advantages  for  ex- 
ercising a  wholesome  influence  upon 
National  politics. 

National  Institutions. — The 
United-States  Naval  Academy 
for  cadet-midshipmen  and  en- 
gineers occupies  a  group  of 
commodious  buildings  in  a 
park  of  50  acres,  fronting  on 
the  Severn  River,  at  Annapo- 
lis. It  was  founded  in  1845, 
by  George  Bancroft,  then  Sec- 

f      h      N  d   fc 

BALTIMORE  :    DRUID-HILL   PARK.  7l 


BALTIMORE  I 
THE    BALTIMORE   SUN 


THE  STATE   OF  MARYLAND. 


333 


ferred  to  Newport,  R.  I.,  during  the  Secession  War.  Here  stand  the  Midshipmen's 
Quarters,  Officers'  Quarters,  Gunnery  Building,  Observatory,  Hospital,  Department  of 
Steam  Engineering,  and  Gymnasium.  The  Library  contains  18,000  volumes,  and  many 
trophies  and  flags,  and  portraits  of  Farragut,  Porter,  Perry,  Decatur,  Preble  and  other  naval 
chieftains.  The  Academy  grounds  are  adorned  with  fine  old  trees,  monuments  to  heroes  of 
the  American  fleets,  and  trophy  cannon.  There  are  57  instructors  and  280  naval  cadets, 
each  Congressional  district  being  entitled  to  send  one  youth,  physically  and  mentally  sound, 
who  must  bind  himself  to  serve  eight  years  (including  the  time  at  the  Academy)  in  the 
United-States  Navy.  Each  naval  cadet  receives  $500  a  year. 

Fort  Me  Henry  occupies  the  site  of  the  Revolutionary  battery  on  Whetstone  Point,  three 
miles  below  Baltimore,  and  is  garrisoned  by  three  companies  of  United-States  artillery.  It 
is  a  star-fort  of  the  old  style,  with  a  moderate  armament.  Fort  Carroll,  on  an  artificial 
island  in  the  Patapsco,  6^  miles  below  Baltimore,  is  an  immense  and  costly  granite  work, 
with  heavy  guns  in  its  casemates.  Fort  Washington  is  an  ancient  stone  defence,  on  the 


MONUMENTS 

AT 
BALTIMORE   AND    ANNAPOLIS. 


Potomac  River,  13  miles  below 
Washington.  It  was  designed 
by  Major  L'Enfant,  in  1812. 
Fort  Foote,  also  on  the  Potomac,  dates  from  the  period  of  the  Secession  War.  The  United- 
States  Marine  Hospital  has  a  group  of  modern  buildings  just  north  of  Baltimore.  The 
battle-field  of  Antietam  is  consecrated  by  a  National  Cemetery,  containing  the  graves  of 
4,688  dead  heroes.  The  other  National  cemeteries  are  at  Annapolis  and  Loudon  Park. 

Chief  Cities. — Baltimore,  the  metropolis  of  Maryland,  stretches  along  the  pleasant 
hills  which  border  a  deep  estuary  of  the  Patapsco  River,  14  miles  from  Chesapeake  Bay.  It 
is  the  fourth  maritime  city  of  the  Republic,  following  New  York,  Boston  and  New  Orleans  ; 
and  3,000  foreign  vessels  arrive  and  depart  yearly,  besides  an  immense  coastwise  fleet. 
Steamships  run  to  Liverpool,  Queenstown,  Glasgow,  Bristol,  London,  Belfast,  Antwerp, 


334 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 


BALTIMORE  :    THE   POST-OFFICE. 


Bremen,  Havre,  and  other  European  ports.  The  chief  exports  are  petroleum,  grain  and 
tobacco ;  and  iron,  coffee  and  salt  are  imported  in  great  quantities.  The  convergence  of 
many  railways  makes  Baltimore  a  favorite  shipping-point  for  Western  grain  and  other 
products,  which  are  handled  by  several  elevators.  The  exports  exceed 
$50,000,000  a  year.  In  point  of  manufactures,  this  is  the  eighth  American 
city,  with  iron-mills,  smelting-works,  sugar-refineries, 
ship-yards,  cotton-mills,  and  other  industries,  producing 
$135,000,000  a  year.  At  the  clearing  house  its  total 
exceeds  $700,000,000  a  year.  The  City  Hall,  built  of 
Maryland  marble,  in  1868-75,  cost  $2,271,000;  the 
United-States  Post-Office,  a  Renaissance  palace,  cost 
$2,000,000;  and  the  Exchange  has  Ionic  colonnades  of 
Italian  marble.  Among  other  interesting  features  are 
the  venerable  Cathedral,  famous  in  Catholic  history;  the 
Norman  basilica  of  St.  Paul's,  pertaining  to  the  Episco- 
palians; the  Peabody  Institute ;  the  Enoch-Pratt  Free  Library;  the  Johns-Hopkins  Uni- 
versity; the  Masonic  Temple  and  the  Odd-Fellows'  Hall ;  and  many  imposing  churches, 
convents  and  asylums,  and  rich  libraries.  Druid- Hill  Park  covers  over  700  acres,  and  in- 
cludes a  fine  old  colonial  estate,  patented  in  1688,  and  famous  for  its  great  oaks.  It  was 
opened  to  the  people  in  1860,  and  has  noble  drives  and  rambles,  lakes  and  fountains,  towers 
and  kiosks,  bridges  and  statues,  herds  of  deer  and  sheep,  and  a  zoological  garden.  The 

city  has  several  other  pleasant  parks ;  and  in 
the  suburbs  are  the  beautiful  Greenmount  and 
Loudon-Park  cemeteries.  The  water- works 
bring  water  from  Loch  Raven,  on  the  Gun- 
powder River,  to  the  great  reservoirs  at  Clif- 
ton and  in  Druid- Hill  Park,  leading  five 
miles  through  a  tunnel,  cut  through  solid 
gneiss.  They  cost  upwards  of  $5,000,000. 
Baltimore  has  the  finest  hotel  in  Maryland, 
the  Hotel  Rennert,  built  in  1885-7,  under  the 
BALTIMORE  \  THE  COUNTY  COURT-HOUSE.  personal  supervision  of  its  owner,  Robert  Ren- 

nert, and  by  day-labor,  in  order  to  secure  a  more  solid  and  lasting  structure.  The  first  and 
second  floors  are  of  tiled  concrete  and  rolled  iron  beams,  and  the  other  floors  have  asbestos 
felting  and  plaster  on  iron  lathing,  with  partitions  of  hollow  concrete  blocks,  thus  making 
the  house  fire-proof,  in  addition  to  which  the  stairs  are  of  marble  and  iron.  No  effort  or  ex- 
pense has  been  spared  to  make  the  Rennert  equal  to  any  hotel  in  America,  in  decoration 
and  furnishing,  ventilation  and  sanitary  arrangements.  From  the  Ariel  summer  garden  on 
the  top  of  the  house,  a  broad  view  is  given  over  the  city  and 
suburbs,  since  the  hotel  stands  on  high  ground,  in  the  fashiona- 
ble quarter  of  Baltimore.  Among  the  guests  have  been  Presi- 
dent Harrison  and  all  his  Cabinet,  nearly  all  the  United-States 
Senators  (Sherman  and  Hoar,Evarts  and  Hawley,  and  others), 
Edwin  Booth,  Mary  Anderson,  Adelina  Patti  and  many  other 
notables.  The  Rennert  is  on  the  European  plan,  and  the 
cuisine,  as  well  as  the  elegant  and  substantial  fire-proof  struc- 
ture itself,  has  given  to  its  owner  a  world-wide  fame. 

The  quaint  old  capital  of  Maryland,  Annapolis,  with  its 
venerable  churches  and  mansions,  on  streets  converging  at  the 
State  House,  rests  along  the  Severn  River,  two  miles  from 
Chesapeake  Bay.  Frederick,  in  the  rich  limestone  plain  near 
the  Catoctin  Mountains,  "green- walled  by  the  hills  of  Mary- 


THE  STATE   OF  MARYLAND. 


335 


land,"  was  the  scene  of  Whittier's  poem  of  "Barbara  Frietchie."  Hagerstown,  the  capital 
of  Washington  County,  is  a  manufacturing  city,  in  the  hill-country.  Cumberland,  with 
large  rolling-mills  and  glass-works  and  country-trade,  nestles  on  the  upper  Potomac,  be- 
tween Wills',  Dan's,  and  the  Knobly  Mountains,  and  near  the 
deep  gorge  of  the  Narrows. 

The  Finances  of  Maryland  are  safely  and  wisely  admin- 
istered. The  net  debt  of  the  State  is  below  $3,000,000 ; 
and  the  yearly  expenditures  are  about  $2,500,000. 
Frederick  and  Annapolis  have  strong  banks  ;  and  there 
is  a  large  capital  invested  in  the  financial  institutions  of 
Baltimore,  whose  saving-banks  alone  have  deposits  ex- 
ceeding  $25,000,000.  The  Merchants'  National  Bank, 
of  Baltimore,  dates  from  1835,  having  succeeded  the 
United- States  Bank  ;  and  Johns  Hopkins  was  its  presi- 
BALTIMORE  :  OLD  POST-OFFICE.  dent  for  seventeen  years,  until  his  death  (in  1873).  The 

presidency  is  now  occupied  by  Major  Douglas  H.  Thomas,  for  nearly  thirty  years  in  the 
banking  business  here.  This  is  the  largest  bank  iii  Maryland,  and  has  a  capital  of  $1,500,000, 
and  a  surplus  and  undivided  profits  of  nearly  $600,000,  making  a  working  capital  of  above 
$2,000,000,  with  deposits  exceeding  $5,000,000.  The  bank  has  never  passed  a  dividend,  and 
never  paid  less  than  six  per  cent,  a  year.  The  directors  are  conspicuous  and  influential  Balti- 
moreans,  whose  efforts  give  strength  to  this  ancient  and  suc- 
cessful institution.  The  Merchants'  National  Bank  owns  and 
occupies  one  of  the  quaintest  buildings  in  the  South,  adjoining 
the  old  post-office. 

Several  of  the  private  banking-houses  of  Baltimore  rank 
among  the  most  solid  and  substantial  in  the  country,  being  con- 
ducted by  men  of  large  capital  and"  long  experience.  Foremost 
among  these  stands  Alexander  Brown  &  Sons,  founded  in 
1805,  by  Alexander  Brown,  and  re-organized  in  1811  under  its 
present  title.  The  New- York,  Philadelphia  and  Boston  bank- 
ing-houses of  Brown  Bros.  &  Co.,  and  the  London  firm  of 
Brown,  Shipley  &  Co.,  originally  started  as  branches  of  the  Baltimore  house,  are  closely 
allied  with  the  Baltimore  firm,  their  American  offices  being  connected  by  private  wires. 
Alexander  Brown  &  Sons  conduct  a  large  foreign  and  domestic  business,  in  stocks  and  bonds, 
bills  uf  exchange  and  letters  of  credit,  and  the  negotiation  of  railroad  and  municipal  loans. 
The  personnel  of  the  firm  includes  Alexander  Brown,  a  great-grandson  of  the  founder  of  the 
house,  and  Wm.  G.  Bowdoin,  for  nearly  20  years  a  partner.  Beginning  almost  with  the 
century,  this  great  financial  institution  has  enjoyed  a  long  career  of  success,  and  is  honorably 
known  all  over  the  world.  Under  the  able  and  conservative  influences  of  financial  institu- 
tions like  these,  the  city  of  Baltimore  has  attained  a  noble  mercantile  preeminence  on  the 
Southern  seaboard,  and  far  into  the  interior. 

Railroads. —  The  Baltimore  &  Ohio  Railroad  was  organized 
in  1827,  and  opened  construction  the  next  year,  reaching  Elli- 
cott's  Mills  in  1830.  The  work  of  grading  was  begun  by  Charles 
Carroll  of  Carrollton,  then  the  only  surviving  signer  of  the  Declara- 
tion of  Independence.  The  motive  power  was  by  relays  of  horses, 
which  drew  the  little  trains  to  Frederick  and  back,  the  horses 
being  changed  at  the  Relay  House.  The  cars  were  clapboard 
shanties  on  wheels,  12  feet  long,  with  three  windows  on  each  side, 
and  a  deal  table  in  the  centre.  The  driver  sat  on  a  high  seat  in 
front,  and  the  conductor  stood  on  steps  in  the  rear.  One  horse 
ALEX.  BROWN  &  SONS,  BANKERS,  drew  each  car,  at  seven  miles  an  hour  ;  and  when  the  wheels 


BALTIMORE  : 
MERCHANTS'  NATIONAL  BANK. 


&    OHIO    RAILROAD. 


336  KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 

were  made  larger,  and  better  horses  were  used,  they  made  ten  miles  an  hour.  In  1830  Peter 
Cooper  tried  steam-power  on  the  line  to  Ellicott's  Mills,  his  engine  weighing  less  than  a  ton, 
with  a  little  upright  boiler  like  that  of  a  kitchen  range.  This  was  the  first  locomotive  built 
in  America,  and  Peter  Cooper  acted  as  engineer, brakeman  and 
conductor  of  the  first  passenger-train,  containing  the  directors 
of  the  road,  and  making  the  run  of  13  miles  in  57  minutes. 
The  line  reached  Harper's  Ferry  and  Washington  in  1836; 
Cumberland,  in  1842;  and  Wheeling,  in  1853.  Up  to  that 
time  its  379  miles  had  cost  $15,639,000.  The  railway  has  con- 
structed many  interesting  works,  from  the  noble  viaduct  at  the 
Relay  House  to  the  great  tunnels,  bridges,  viaducts  and  gal- 
leries of  the  mountain-region.  On  its  grand  routes  from  the 
East  to  the  West,  crossing  the  Alleghany  Mountains,  the 
Baltimore  &  Ohio  line  traverses  some  of  the  finest  scenery 
on  the  continent,  and  passes  many  historic  and  interesting 
points,  like  Harper's  Ferry,  Cumberland,  Pittsburgh,  and 
Wheeling,  and  the  famous  summer-resorts  of  Deer  Park  and 
Oakland.  It  reaches  out  from  Baltimore  to  Philadelphia  and 
New  York,  on  one  side,  and  by  way  of  Washington  to  the 
West  on  the  other,  finding  its  farthest  terminals  at  Cincinnati  BALTIMORE  •.  OFFICE 
and  Chicago.  Its  magnificent  equipment  is  unsurpassed  on 
any  road,  and  its  perfect  net-work  of  connections  to  all  routes  of  the  company  make  the 
Baltimore  &  Ohio  one  of  the  pre-eminent  railroads  of  America. 

The  Baltimore  &  Potomac  Railroad  runs  from  Baltimore  to  Washington,  and  to  Pope's 

Creek,  on  the  lower  Po- 
tomac. 

The  Northern  Central 
line  runs  from  Baltimore 
to  Harrisburg ;  the  West- 
ern Maryland,  from  Bal- 
timore to  Williamsport; 
and  the  Maryland  Cen- 
tral, from  Baltimore  to 
Delta  (Penn.).  There 
are  two  first-class  railways  between  Baltimore  and  Philadelphia.  The  great  railway-bridge 
across  the  Susquehanna  at  Havre  de  Grace  was  built  by  the  Keystone  Bridge  Co.,  of  Pitts- 
burgh. Railroads  running  southwest  from  Delaware  traverse  the  Eastern  Shore  to  Chesa- 
peake Bay,  reaching  Crisfield,  Cambridge,  Oxford,  Centreville,  Chestertown,  and  Easton. 
The  Atlantic  Coast  Line,  from  Boston  and  New  York  to  Florida  and  the  Gulf  States,  passes 
through  Baltimore,  where  it  has  well-equipped  offices.  The 
Chesapeake  and  Delaware  Canal  unites  the  two  great  bays. 
The  Susquehanna  &  Tide-Water  Canal  follows  the  Susque- 
hanna River  from  Pennsylvania  to  Havre  de  Grace. 

The  Manufactures  of  Maryland  exceed  $100,000,000 
in  their  annual  output,  having  an  invested  capital  of 
$70,000,000,  and  employing  75,000  operatives. 

The  Southern  States  are  largely  supplied  with  dry  goods 
from  Baltimore,  which  in  this  department  of  trade  is  a  lead- 
ing distributive  centre.  One  of  the  great  dry-goods  houses 
of  this  country  is  Hurst,  Purnell  &  Co.,  whose  history,  cov- 
ering a  period  of  over  half  a  century,  is  closely  interwoven 
with  the  mercantile  history  of  Baltimore.  This  extensive  BALTIMORE  :  HURST,  PURNELL  &  co. 


BALTIMORE  :      BALTIMORE    &    OHIO    RAILROAD   TERMINALS. 


THE  STATE   OF  MARYLAND. 


337 


r 


BALTIMORE  :  ARM- 
STRONG, CATOR &  CO 


business  was  founded  in  1831,  and  from  that  time  to  the  present  the  house  has  enjoyed  an 
uninterrupted  success,  always  maintaining,  through  evil  and  good  report,  the  highest  stand- 
ard of  mercantile  integrity,  which,  together  with  a  broad,  comprehensive  and  capable 
management,  have  been  conspicuous  characteristics  of  the  house  since  its 
foundation.  Their  travelling  salesmen  penetrate  all  the  lower  Atlantic  and 
Ohio-Valley  States,  continually  replenishing  the  stocks  of  thousands  of  the 
dry-goods  stores  in  the  various  cities  and  villages  embraced  in  this  terri- 
tory. In  their  spacious  seven-story  iron  building  Hurst,  Purnell  &  Co. 
carry  one  of  the  most  complete  and  attractive  stocks  of  dry  goods  and 
notions  to  be  found  in  this  country. 

Baltimore  is  a  large  importer  and  manufacturer  of  millinery,  which  is 
distributed  thence  throughout  the  entire  South,  and  large  areas  of  the 
West.  The  leading  house  is  Armstrong,  Cator  &  Co.,  founded  in  1816  by 
Thomas  Armstrong,  who  was  joined  in  1847  by  Robinson  W.  Cator,  the 
present  head  of  the  firm.  The  six  handsome  buildings  occupied  as  sales- 
rooms stand  on  the  site  of  Rochambeau's  headquarters  and  the  old  Poe 
mansion.  The  resources  of  the  firm  are  not  far  from  $1,000,000;  and 
their  employees  number  200,  independent  of  those  in  their  manufacturing 
department.  The  goods  which  this  enterprising  company  sends  throughout 
all  the  country,  from  Pennsylvania  to  Florida,  and  also  to  Missouri  and 
Kansas  and  intermediate  States,  include  not  only  millinery,  but  also  large 
lines  of  notions  and  white  goods.  Armstrong,  Cator  &  Co.  are  the  peers  of  any  millinery 
house  in  the  United  States. 

In  Baltimore  and  vicinity  is  made  three  fifths  of  all  the  cotton-duck  used  in  the  United 
States,  and  here  are  located  several  well-known  cotton-duck  mills.  The  largest  of  these, 
and,  in  fact,  the  largest  in  the  world,  are  the  Mount-Vernon  Company's  mills,  which  started 
in  1848,  under  the  presidency  of  William  Kennedy,  and  the  management  of  David  Carroll, 
one  of  the  pioneers  of  this  industry.  Cotton-duck  is  used  for  a  variety  of  purposes  — for 
threshers  and  reapers,  for  belting  and  hose,  for  sails,  for  mining,  for  tents  and  other  army 
purposes,  for  mail  pouches,  for  awnings,  and  other  uses.  At  these  mills  it  is  made  in 
various  widths,  from  four  to  132  inches,  and  of  50  different  thicknesses.  The  Mount-Vernon 
mills  employ  about  1,300  people,  with  50,000  spindles,  and  produce  yearly  10,000,000 
yards  of  cotton-duck,  con- 
suming 25,000  bales  of  cot- 
ton. In  the  early  days  of 
these  mills,  it  was  necessary 
only  to  haul  out  a  bale  of 
cotton  a  day,  in  a  cart,  which 
brought  back  the  total  pro- 
duct ;  but  now  it  requires 
three  six-horse  teams,  each 
making  two  loads  a  day,  and 
each  time  carrying  very  many  times  the  capacity  of  the  old-fashioned  cart  with  its  single  trip 
a  day.  In  1876,  the  Mount-Vernon  Company  was  awarded  a  medal  at  the  Centennial  Ex- 
position for  the  best  cotton-duck.  The  mills  are  picturesque  groups  of  buildings  adjacent 
to  Druid-Hill  Park,  and  at  Phoenix.  For  the  last  13  years,  Richard  Cromwell  has  been 
the  president,  and  under  his  administration  the  works  have  been  materially  enlarged. 

Fine  Baltimore  hats  have  long  been  the  standard  for  the  whole  country.  While  American 
manufacturers  had  a  tedious  struggle  in  overcoming  the  prejudice  existing  in  favor  of  foreign 
hats,  a  steady  endeavor  to  win  the  approval  of  Americans  for  those  of  American  make  did 
at  last  secure  a  genuine  success,  and  to-day  American-made  hats  stand  unrivalled  in  the 
world.  Jacob  Roger's  factory,  erected  in  1805,  on  the  site  of  the  present  Corn  and  Flour 


BALTIMORE  I      MOUNT-VERNON    COTTON-DUCK    MILLS. 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE    UNITED   STATES. 

Exchange,  was  then  the  largest  in  America;  and  in  1814 
Runyon  Harris  built  another  hat-factory,  which  passed,  a 
few  years  later,  into  the  hands  of  Aaron  Clap  &  Co.,  a  house 
founded  in  1817.  As  new  men  entered  the  firm,  the  style 
and  title  changed  several  times,  until  finally  the  house  of 
Aaron  Clap  &  Co.  was  succeeded  in  a  direct  line  by  Brigham 
&  Hopkins,  now  Brigham,  Hopkins  &  Co.,  who  are  recog- 
nized as  leading  American  makers  of  fine  straw  hats.  Their 
factory  at  the  corner  of  German  and  Paca  Streets  is  a  spac- 
ious and  architecturally  handsome  building,  and  the  celeb- 
rity of  the  products  of  the  firm  gives  them  the  foremost  posi- 
tion in  their  line  of  trade.  With  salesrooms  in  New  York 
and  Baltimore,  Brigham,  Hopkins  &  Co.  show  the  best  pro- 
ducts, manufactured  with  all  the  traditional  skill  of  Baltimore 
'  hatters,  increased  by  the  practical  experience  of  generations. 

The  Robert  Poole  &  Son  Iron  Works  are  supplied  with  a  full  equipment  of  the  heaviest 
and  most  modern  tools  and  appliances  ;  and  during  the  last  decade  their  business  has  won- 
derfully increased.  The  company  manufactures  machine-moulded  gearing,  stationary  en- 
gines and  boilers,  and  the  famous  Leffel  turbine 

water-wheels ;  together  with  a  great  variety  of 
machinery  for  the  distribution  of  power  in  cotton 
and  woolen  mills,  grain  elevators,  fertilizer  and 
paper  factories,  and  flour  and  grist  mills.  Another 
celebrated  product  is  the  cable-driving  machinery 
used  by  street  cable  railways  in  New  York,  Chi- 
cago, St.  Paul,  Kansas  City,  Omaha,  Denvei,  and 
other  cities,  whose  highly  successful  plants  are 
made  by  the  Pooles.  The  works  of  the  Robert 
Poole  &  Son  Company,  cover  25  acres,  in  the 
Woodberry  suburb  of  Baltimore,  with  substantial 
buildings.  Robert  Poole  founded  the  business  in  1841  ;  and  after  the  lapse  of  a  half-century 
he  still  remains  as  its  president  and  treasurer,  the  concern  in  1889  having  been  incorporated, 
with  a  paid-in  capital  of  $350,000,  and  employing  400  experienced  mechanics. 

The  foremost  iron  and  steel  manufacturers  in  Maryland  are  the  Pennsylvania  Steel  Com- 
pany, whose  new  works  are  at  Sparrow's  Point,  nine  miles  from  Baltimore,  where  the  cor- 
poration has  a  long  stretch 
of  deep  water  frontage,  suit- 
able for  the  discharging  of 
^  -;  •->  the  cargoes  of 
iron  ore  from  its 
Cuban  mines. 
Between  1887 
and  1891  the 
company  spent 
over  $2,  ooo,  ooo 
on  this  great  plant.  Four  blast 
furnaces  are  now  in  full  opera- 
tion ;  and  a  Bessemer  plant  and 
a  rail-mill  have  also  been  erected  and  started.  There  is  also  a  very  complete  ship-building 
plant  at  Sparrow's  Point,  and  it  has  already  done  considerable  work  of  value.  The  land 
owned  by  the  Pennsylvania  Steel  Co.  in  this  locality,  on  tide-water,  is  about  1,000  acres. 
The  main  and  older  works  arc  at  Steelton  (Pcnn.),  and  are  told  of  in  the  Pennsylvania  chapter. 


BALTIMORE ;     ROBERT    POOLE    &    SON    CO. 


Zj&faTr") 


STEELTON  :    PENNSYLVANIA  STEEL  CO.  'S  WORKS  AT  SPARROW'S  POINT. 


One  of  the  13  original  States. 
Population,  in  1885,     .     .     .    1,0.12,141 
Whites, 1,922,944 


12,999 
1,415,274 


932.884 

1,009,257 

2,238,943 

567,919 

183^92 


'Mr.  President: 
^*~~~  "I  shall  enter  on  no  en- 
comium upon  Massachusetts  ; 
she  needs  none.  There  she  is. 
Behold  her,  and  judge  for  your- 
selves. There  is  her  history; 
the  world  knows  it  by  heart. 
The  past,  at  least,  is  secure. 
There  is  Boston,  and  Concord, 

and  Lexington,  and  Bunker  Hill ;  and  there  they  will  remain 

forever.    The  bones  of  her  sons,  falling  in  the  great  struggle 

for  Independence,  now  lie  mingled  with  the  soil  of  every 

State  from  New  England  to  Georgia  ;  and  there  they  will 

lie  forever.     And,   sir,   where  American  liberty  raised  its 

first  voice,  and  where  its  youth  was  nurtured  and  sustained, 

there  it  still  lives,  in  the  strength  of  its  manhood  and  full  of 

its  original  spirit.      If  discord  and  disunion  shall  wound  it, 

if  party  strife  and  blind  ambition  shall  hawk  at  and  tear  it, 

if  folly  and  madness,  if  uneasiness  under  salutary  and  neces- 
sary restraint,  shall  succeed  in  separating  it  from  that  Union 

by  which  alone  its  existence  is  made  sure,  it  will  stand,  in 

the  end,  by  the  side  of  that  cradle  in  which  its  infancy  was 

rocked  ;  it  will  stretch  forth  its  arm,  with  whatever  vigor  it 

may  still  retain,  over  the  friends  who  gather  round  it ;  and 

it  will  fall  at  last,  if  fall  it  must,  amidst  the  proudest  monu- 
ments of  its  own  glory,  and  on  the  very  spot  of  its  origin." 

—DANIEL  WEBSTER. 

The  inhabitants  of  Massachusetts,  before  the  invasion 

from  Europe,  were  several  tribes  of  Algonquin  Indians  — 

the  Pawtuckets,  in  the  Merrimac  and  Mystic  valleys ;  the 

Massachusees,  around  Boston ;  the  Nausets,  on  Cape  Cod ; 

the  Wampanoags  (or  Pokanokets),  toward  Narragansett  Bay  ; 

and  the  Nipmucks,  in  the   Nashua  Valley  and  Worcester 

County.    The  Connecticut  Valley  contained  the  Squawkeag, 

Nonotuck,  Waranoke,  Agawam,  Tunxis,  and  Podunk  tribes,  all  confederated  under  the 

headship  of  the  Pocomtucks,  who  dwelt  about  Deerfield.     These  allied  clans  dominated  the 

valley  from  Brattleborough  to  Hartford.     The  wild  hill-country  to  the  west,  as  far  as  the 


1620 

t,    riymouth. 
Englishmen. 


Blacks, 

Americans,       .     . 

Foreigners,      .     . 

Males,      .... 

Females,      .     .     . 
Population  in  1890,     . 

Polls, 

Vote  for  Harrison  (1<JW,,  *v-01,  -,<. 
Vote  for  Cleveland  (1888),  151,855 
Real  Property  (1890),  $1,600,137,807 
Personal  Property,  .  .  $553,096,819 
State  Debt  (Jan  i,  1802),  $27,929,416 
Sinking  and  Trust  Funds,  $34,338,866 

Counties, 14 

Cities  (Pop.  over  12,000),      .  28 

Towns, 323 

Number  of  Post-offices,       .  863 

Railroads  (miles),  ....  2,094 
Manufactures  (yearly),  $631,000,000 

Colleges, 13 

Professional  Schools,      .     .  16 

Public  Schools, 7,329 

Private  Schools  and  Academies,  511 
Pupils,  of  all  ages,  .  .  .  429,671 
Public  Libraries,  ....  569 

Vols.  in  Pub.  Libraries,  .  3,569,085 
Area  (square  miles),  .  .  .  8,315 
Farm  Land  (acres),  .  .  3,898,429 
U.  S.  Representatives  (1893),  13 

Militia 5,329 

260  Nat.  Banks,  Dep'ts,  $167,000,000 
180  Sav'gs  "  $400,000,000 

Co-operative  Banks,    ...  108 

Daily  Papers, 55 

Periodicals,  etc.,     ....  655 

Temperature,  .  .  — 20°  to  100°  F. 
Longitude,  .  6g°53'  to  73°  32'  W. 
Latitude,  .  .  41°  14' to  43°  53' N. 
Mean  Temperature  (Boston),  .  40° 

TEN  CHIEF  CITIES  AND  THEIR  POPU- 
LATIONS.    (Census  of  1890.) 

Boston, 448,477 

Worcester, 84,65=, 

Lowell 77,696 

Fall  River 74,398 

Cambridge, 70,028 

Lynn 55,727 

Lawrence 44,654 

Springfield, 44,J79 

New  Bedford, 4°, 733 

Somerville 40,152 


340 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE    UNITED   STATES. 


Hudson,  lay  desolate  and  empty,  except  for  the  few  wigwams  of  the  Housatonics,  in  the 
Stockbridge  region.  Each  tribe  contained  several  local  clans,  whose  names,  attached  to 
hills,  rivers,  and  lakes,  are  the  only  memorials  of  a  vanished  nation.  They 
were  a  brave  and  simple  race,  subsisting  mainly  by  hunting  and  fishing, 
with  little  plantations  of  corn  and  beans,  and  dwelling  in  rude  wigwams, 
near  the  bright  ponds  and  in  the  fair  valleys. 

Some  people  suppose,  on  the  evidence  of  the  Icelanflic  Sagas,  that 
this  coast  was  visited  by  the  Norsemen,  about  the  time  of  the  Crusades, 
and  that  Leif  Ericsson,  one  of  their  Viking  chiefs,  suffered  death  at  the 
hands  of  the  natives  near  Boston  Harbor.    A  noble  bronze  statue  of  this 
chieftain  adorns  Commonwealth  Avenue,  in  Boston.     Prof.  E.  N.  Hors- 
ford,  the  author  of  several  learned  monographs  about  the  ancient  Norse 
colonies  in  Massachusetts,  has  erected  a  picturesque  stone  memorial 
tower,  near  the  confluence  of  Charles  River  and  Stony  Brook,  where  he 
claims  to  have  traced  the  remains  of  the  ancient  fortress  of  Norumbega. 
Before  the  year  1500,  the  Cabots  may  have  cruised  along  this  silent 
coast.     Later  came  Verrazano,  Cortereal  and  other  explorers  ;  and 
ON  :  NORSEMAN  STATUE.  much  later>  pring)  champlaui,  Waymouth  and  others.     Gosnold  estab- 
lished an  ephemeral  colony  on  Cuttyhunk,  one  of  the  Elizabeth  Islands,  in  1602  ;  and  in 
1614  Capt.  John  Smith  made  a  map  of  the  coast.     Through  these  explorations  the  way  was 
opened  for  the  occupation  by  religious  enthusiasts  from  England. 

The  settlements  occurred  at  several  points.  The  Pilgrim  Fathers, 
a  band  of  evangelical  Separatists  (Congregationalists)  from  the 
Church  of  England,  after  twelve  years  of  exile  in  Holland,  sailed 
from  Delft  for  America,  intending  to  found  a  colony  near  the  Hud- 
son River.  But  their  ship,  the  Mayflower,  made  its  landfall  farther 
'north,  at  Cape  Cod;  and  December  21,  1620,  they  landed  (102  in 
number)  at  New  Plymouth  (whose  surrounding  country  is  still  known  JJSF 
as  The  Old  Colony}.  Half  of  them  died  during  the  first  winter.  Mas-  '•' 
sasoit,the  Indian  sovereign,  treated  the  survivors  with  great  kindness, 
and  made  a  treaty  of  peace  with  them.  The  Massachusetts-Bay  * 
colony  was  founded  at  Salem  by  John  Endicott,  in  1628  ;  and  in  1630  BOSTON  :  FANEUIL  HALL. 
Gov.  John  Winthrop  and  17  shiploads  of  colonists  came  over  seas,  and  the  capital  was  trans- 
ferred, first  to  Mishawum,  which  was  named  Charlestown,  and  next  to  the  Indian  corn-fields 
of  Shawmut  (then  re-named  BOSTON).  Another  and  much  smaller  colony,  under  Thomas 
Mayhew,  secured  a  grant  from  the  Earl  of  Sterling,  of  the  islands  of  Nantucket  and  Martha's 
Vineyard,  and  held  them,  under  the  government  of  New  York,  until  1695,  when  they  were 
ceded  to  Massachusetts.  New  colonies  moved  up  and  down  the  coast, 
and  into  the  interior,  founding  Lynn  and  Marblehead,  Ipswich  and  New- 
bury,  on  the  shores  of  Essex  ;  the  inland  towns  of  Cambridge,  Newton, 
Sudbury,  Lancaster,  Brookfield  and  Worcester ;  and  the  Connecticut- 
Valley  settlements  of  Deerfield,  Northampton,  and  Springfield.  A  noble 
bronze  statue  in  the  latter  city  commemorates  one  of  these  typical  pioneers 
—  a  sturdy,  bearded  Puritan,  in  a  steeple-crowned  hat,  with  a  hoe 
in  one  hand,  and  a  bell-mouthed  musket  in  the  other.  In  1643, 
when  Cromwell  was  fighting  the  King,  in  England,  the  colonies 
of  Massachusetts,  Plymouth,  Connecticut  and  New  Haven  formed 
a  confederation  for  mutual  defence  against  the  Indians  and  the 
Dutch,  and  this  incipient  but  formidable  United  States  endured 
for  over  40  years.  Massachusetts  alone  had  4,000  men-at- 
arms  and  400  cavalrymen.  The  semi-theocratic  and  ecclesias- 
BUNKER-HILL  MONUMENT.  tical  governments  of  the  Plymouth  Pilgrims  and  the  Boston 


THE  STATE   OF  MASSACHUSETTS. 


341 


Puritans  (who  in  old  England  had  belonged  to  the  party  trying  to  reform  the  Anglican 
Church  from  within)  were  modified  in  1684  by  the  revocation  of  the  colony  charter,  and  in 
1691  Massachusetts,  Maine  and  Plymouth  were  united  in  one  government,  under  the  name 
of  the  Province  of  Massachusetts  Bay  in  New  England. 

The  intolerance  prevalent  in  Europe  was  felt  here  also,  and  Roger 
Williams,  John  Wheelwright  and  many  other  alleged  schismatics  were 
driven  forth  into  exile,  while  others,  so  contumacious  as  to 
be  a  danger  to  the  community,  suffered  death.  At  the 
same  time,  Eliot,  Mayhew  and  divers  other  apostolic  men 
converted  ten  Indian  tribes  to  Christianity. 

For  many  years  parts  of  New  Hampshire  and  Vermont 
were  included  in  Massachusetts;  and  Maine  remained  a 
part  of  it  also,  from  1651  until  1820.     Rhode  Island  and 
Connecticut  received  their  first  settlers  from  Massachusetts. 
The  National  Monument  to  the  Forefathers,  standing 
on  a  high  hill  near  Plymouth,  and  visible  for  leagues  by 
land  or  sea,  is  an  imposing  memorial  of  the  Pilgrims.     The 
.   central  figure,  Faith,   is  the  largest  granite  statue  in  the 
world  (36  feet  high) ;  and  on  pedestals  below  the  base  are 

3TON  :  OLD  STATE  HOUSE.  colossal  statues,  representing  Morality,  Law,  Education,  and 

Freedom.  Historical  records  and  bas-reliefs  further  adorn  this  mighty  monument.  The 
celebrated  Plymouth  Rock,  "the  corner-stone  of  the  Repub- 
lic," is  down  near  the  water-side,  under  a  lofty  granite 
canopy ;  and  many  relics  of  the  ancient  colonists  are  sacredly 
preserved  in  Pilgrim  Hall.  A  few  miles  distant  across  the 
bay,  on  Captain's  Hill,  in  Duxbury,  a  handsome  circular 
stone  tower  has  been  erected  to.  the  memory  of  Miles 
Standish,  the  military  leader  of  the  Pilgrim  colony,  whose 
colossal  statue  crowns  its  summit,  and  is  visible  for  six 
leagues  at  sea. 

The  Bay  colonists,  more  wealthy,  influential  and  ener- 
getic than  those  of  Plymouth,  were  also  less  lenient  and 
liberal.  Their  chief  motive  in  self-exile  lay  in  securing  freedom  to  worship  God  in  their 
own  way.  The  sagacious  English  gentlemen  who  secured  the  charter,  authorizing  them  to 
transport  and  govern  colonists  here,  and  to  repel  invaders,  came  themselves  to  Massachu- 
setts, bringing  the  charter  with  them,  and  formed  a  practically  independent  State.  They 
banished  certain  people  who  differed  with  them  in  doctrine,  such  as  the  Antinomians  and  the 

Quakers.  Only  four  years  after  the  settlement,  when  Eng- 
land talked  of  vacating  their  charter,  the  colonial  leaders 
fortified  Boston  harbor  and  put  their  train-bands  under 
arms.  But  in  1684  the  charter  was  vacated,  and  the  self- 
governing  semi-theocratic  State  was  suspended,  until  after 
the  deposition  of  Andros  in  1689.  Sir  Edmund  Andros 
was  commissioned  Governor  of  New  England ;  but  the 
'^  train-bands  of  Boston  in  1689  overthrew  his  arbitrary 
power,  and  imprisoned  him  and  many  of  his  officers,  until 
they  were  sent  to  England  for  trial.  William  and  Mary, 
the  incoming  King  and  Queen  of  England,  granted  the 
new  Province  charter  ;  and  appointed  as  Governor  (1692) 
Sir  Wm.  Phips,  a  native  knight.  Then  followed  the  ter- 
rible witchcraft  delusion,  wherein  2O  alleged  witches  were 

NORUMBEGA  TOWER.  Put  tO  death  at   Salem. 


PLYMOUTH  :    PILGRIM    HALL. 


WATERTOWN 


342 


SUOBURY  I    LONGFELLOW'S    "WAYSIDE   INN. 


KING  >S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE  UNITED  STA  TES. 

When  the  settlements  began  to  encroach  on 
their  domains,  the  Indian  tribes  rose  in  arms,  and 
there  followed  a  long  series  of  terrible  wars, 
between  1637  (the  Pequot  war)  and  1760  (the  con- 
quest of  Canada),  in  which  scores  of  colonial  vil- 
lages were  destroyed  by  the  natives,  and  many 
thousands  of  whites  suffered  death.  During  the 
frequent  wars  between  France  and  England,  offi- 
cers and  soldiers  of  the  French  army  aided  the 
Indians  in  their  forays  on  Deerfield,  Haverhill,  and 
other  hamlets.  Several  naval  expeditions  sailed 
from  Boston  against  the  French  possessions  at 
the  northward  and  eastward,  capturing  Port  Royal  (Annapolis) ;  and  later  the  proud 
fortress  of  Louisbourg  surrendered  to  New-England  forces,  and  other  French  settlements  in 
Acadia  were  captured.  Meantime,  the  Province  gained  mightily  in  population  and  wealth, 
and  also  in  commercial  and  military  power.  There  were  250, ooo  inhabitants  here  when  the 
British  Government  began  the  aggressive  acts  which  resulted  in  the  Revolutionary  War. 
On  the  soil  of  this  State  occurred  the  first  battles  of  that  conflict,  in  which  the  larger  part 
of  the  army  was  composed  of  Massachusetts  men,  many 
of  them  veterans  of  the  long  campaigns  against  the  French 
and  Indians. 

A  plain  stone  monument  on  Lexington  Green,  and  a  capi- 
tal bronze  statue  of  a  minute-man  at  Concord  Bridge,  com- 
memorate the  battles  of  April  19,  1775,  when  800  British 
grenadiers  and  light  infantry  were  driven  back  into  Boston, 
with  a  loss  of  273  men.  They  would  have  been  annihilated, 
but  for  the  arrival  of  Lord  Percy  with  reinforcements. 
The  picturesque  old  Powder  House,  still  carefully  preserved 
near  Somerville,  was  built  before  1 720,  and  captured  and 
emptied  by  Royal  troops  in  1 774.  During  the  siege  of  Bos- 
ton, it  became  the  chief  magazine  of  the  American  army.  SALEM  :  HAWTHORNE'S  BIRTHPLACE. 

Bunker-Hill  Monument  (in  Charlestown)  is  a  noble  granite  obelisk,  221  feet  high,  begun 
in  1825,  Lafayette  laying  the  corner-stone,  and  finished  in  1842,  Daniel  Webster  delivering 
the  address.  It  commemorates  the  battle  of  June  17,  1775,  when  1,500  New-Englanders 
repulsed  two  determined  attacks  from  4,000  British  regulars,  and  gave  way  before  the  third 
assault  (their  powder  having  been  expended),  losing  in  all  4^0 
men  to  the  British  1,054.  During  the  battle  Charlestown  was 
burned  by  hot  shot  from  British  batteries  in  Boston. 

The  Washington  Elm  at  Cambridge,  the  site  of  the  ancient 
Indian  councils,  and  of  the  town  meetings  in  colonial  days, 
stands  near  Harvard  University,  and  is  carefully  preserved, 
because  under  its  branches,  July  3,  1775,  Washington  took 
command  of  the  American  army.  Washington's  headquar- 
ters in  Cambridge,  not  far  from  the  Elm,  is  a  fine  old  colonial 
mansion,  subsequently  for  many  years  the  home  of  the  poet 
Longfellow.  A  similar  antique  house,  a  little  beyond  on 
Brattle  Street  (formerly  Tory  Row),  is  Elmwood,  the  home  of 
James  Russell  Lowell.  Ball's  noble  equestrian  statue  of  Wash- 
ington (made  at  the  Ames  works  at  Chicopee)  adorns  the  Pub- 
lic Garden,  at  Boston.  A  marble  statue  of  Washington,  by 
Sir  Francis  Chantrey,  is  in  the  State  House.  At  Newburyport 
CAMBRIDGE  :  THE  WASHINGTON  ELM.  stands  J.  Q.  A.  Ward's  bronze  statue  of  the  great  Virginian, 


THE  STATE   OF  MASSACHUSETTS. 


343 


PROVINCETOWN,    CAPE    COD. 


one  of  the  best  ever  made.  On  Cambridge  Com- 
mon are  three  large  cannon,  captured  at  Fort 
Ticonderoga,  in  1775  ;  brought  to  Cambridge 
by  Gen.  Knox ;  and  used  by  Washington  in 
bombarding  Boston.  The  Old  State  House  in 
Boston  is  another  monument  of  the  Revolution- 
ary days,  having  been  built  in  1 748,  and  for  many 
years  the  seat  of  the  Provincial  and  State  legis- 
latures. Outside,  at  the  head  of  King  (now 
State)  Street,  the  British  main-guard  fired  upon 
the  citizens,  March  5,  1770,  killing  and  wounding  many.  This  affair,  called  the  "Boston 
Massacre,"  is  commemorated  by  a  monument  erected  on  Boston  Common,  in  1888.  The 
Old  South  Meeting-House  in  Boston  dates  from  1729,  and  was  the  scene  of  Whitefield's 
preaching,  the  election  sermons  of  1 50  years,  and  the  most  impassioned  appeals  of  the  patriot 
leaders  before  the  outbreak  of  the  Revolution.  During  the  siege,  it  became  a  riding- 
school  for  the  penned-up  British  cavalry.  Like  the  Old  State  House,  this  venerable  build- 
ing is  now  used  as  an  historical  museum,  and  preserved  with  sacred  care. 

Faneuil  Hall  was  given  to  Boston  by  Peter  Faneuil,  a  Huguenot  merchant,  in  1742,  and 
rebuilt  in  1768,  becoming  in  succession  a  barrack  for  the  British  I4th  Regiment,  a  forum 
for  patriotic  American  speeches,  and  a  theatre  for  besieged  British  officers.  In  later 
years,  even  until  now,  it  has  been  the  people's  re- 
sort in  all  kinds  of  excitement,  war-meetings,  politi- 
cal rallies,  receptions,  and  banquets.  It  is  popu- 
larly and  affectionately  known  as  "The  Cradle  of 
Liberty." 

British  rule  in  Boston  ceased  March  17,  1776, 
when  the  Royal  army  went  away  by  sea,  the  fleet 
also  conveying  into  exile  over  1,000  people  of  the 
Province,  mostly  of  the  patrician  families,  who  re- 
mained loyal  to  the  King.  The  valor  of  Massa- 
chusetts soldiers  and  the  wise  diplomacy  of  her 
statesmen  contributed  largely  to  the  success  of  the  Rev6lution.  Of  the  231,791  troops  sent 
by  all  the  American  colonies  into  the  field,  67,907  were  from  Massachusetts,  which  con- 
tributed more  than  double  the  number  enrolled  from  any  other  colony.  In  the  Continental 
Line  alone  she  had  15  regiments.  In  1780  the  State  adopted  a  Constitution,  to  replace  its 
provisional  government ;  and  in  1788,  by  a  very  small  majority,  it  accepted  the  Federal  Con- 
stitution. 

In  1 786,  during  a  season  of  great  discontent  on  account  of  crushing  taxes,  Daniel  Shays 
headed  an  insurrection  in  the  rural  counties,  and  raised  an  army  of  2,000  men,  with  which 
he  broke  up  the  courts  and  attacked  the  Springfield  arsenal.  This  force  melted  away,  after 
a  few  skirmishes  with  the  4,000  State  troops  of  Gens.  Lincoln  and  Shepard. 

The  War  of  1812-15  with  Great  Britain  and  the 
Mexican  War  of  1846-47  were  unpopular  here,  but 
the  State  furnished  efficient  quotas  for  both,  espec- 
ially to  the  navy,  whose  bravest  ship,  the  Constitution, 
came  from  her  dockyards.  Although  the  majority  of 
her  citizens  for  a  long  time  had  but  little  sympathy 
with  the  Anti-Slavery  movement,  its  leaders,  Garrison, 
Phillips,  Sumner  and  others,  were  of  this  community, 
and  John  Brown  was  a  native.  The  men  and  money 
and  armaments  which  kept  slavery  out  of  Kansas 


NEWBURYPORT  : 
THE    CHAIN    BRIDGE    AND    MERRIMAC    RIVER. 


PLYMOUTH  : 
MONUMENT     OVER     PLYMOUTH 


came  mainly  from  this  State.     When   the  late  civil 


CONCORD  ; 
THE  MINUTE- 
MAN  STATUE. 


344 


ENTRANCE  TO   THE    HARBOR    OF    BOSTON, 
FROM    TELEGRAPH    HILL,    AT    HULL. 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 

War  broke  out,  in  1861,  the  Massachusetts 
militia  was  the  first  to  respond  to  the  Presi- 
dent's call  for  troops,  armed  and  equipped  in  all 
points  ready  for  the  field.  In  the  Federal  army 
159,165  men  enlisted,  being  15,000  in  excess  of 
the  quota,  and  only  1,200  were  drafted  men. 
Of  these,  3, 749  were  killed  in  battle;  9, 086  died 
from  wounds  or  disease,  in  the  service ;  and 
5,866  disappeared  as  "missing." 

Upwards  of  $50,000,000  were  spent  in  the 
war  by  the  State  and  its  towns  and  in  private  con- 
tributions. The  chief  memorials  of  those  brave 
but  unhappy  days  are  the  269  tattered  flags 
brought  home  by  the  volunteers,  and  now  preserved  in  great  arches,  fronted  with  plate  glass, 
in  the  Doric  Hall  of  the  State  House.  The  Army  and  Navy  Monument  stands  on  Boston 
Common, 'with  allegorical  statues  of  America,  the  North,  the  South,  the  East,  the  West, 
Peace,  History,  the  Army  and  the  Navy ;  and  scores  of  soldiers'  monuments  and  memorial 
halls  may  be  found  in  other  cities  and  villages.  A  memorial  battery  on  one  of  the  hills  of 
Somerville  occupies  the  site  of  one  of  Washington's  forts,  and  is  mounted  with  cannon  from 
the  civil  war.  It  thus  commemorates  two  struggles  for  freedom.  The  Massachusetts 
Soldiers'  Home,  on  the  sea-viewine  heights  over  Chelsea,  affords  a  comfortable  refuge  for  140 

broken  veterans  whom  the  State  furnished 
for  the  military  service  of  the   Republic, 
with  daily   reveille,   tattoo,  and    taps. 
The  institution  is  maintained  by  popu- 
lar subscriptions. 

For  the  past  25  years  the  State  has 
been  prospering  greatly,  while  changing 
its  investments  in  navigation  into  manu- 
factures and  Western  railroads.  The 
vexed  questions  of  the  day,  woman 
suffrage,  the  prohibition  of  liquor-sales,  the  new  theology,  civil-service  reform,  socialism, 
nationalizing  of  industries,  and  free-trade,  have  been  and  are  being  discussed  and  experi- 
mented upon ;  and  the  State  has  taken  an  earnest  part  in  healing  the  wounds  left  by  the 
Secession  War,  and  in  the  development  of  the  New  South  and  the  Great  \Vest. 

The  Name,  Massachusetts,  comes  from  a  compound  word  in  the  language  of  the  Indian 
aborigines,  Massa,  meaning  "Great";  Wadchooash,  "  Hills";  and  et,  "At,  or  near."  The 
word  signifies  "Great- Hills  Place,"  or  "At  the  Great  Hills."  The  limited  region  to  which 
it  originally  belonged  included  the  meadows  of  the  Neponset  River  (then  inhabited  by  a 


BOSTON    AND   CAMBRIDGE 
HARVARD   BRIDGE. 


tribe  of  Indians  under  the  chieftainship  of  Chickatawbut), 
Blue  Hills  of  Quincy,  Milton  and  Canton,  southwest  of 
ible  for   many  leagues  up  and  down  the  coast.      This 
the  Alps  or  the  Pyrenees,  exhibits  rich  tur- 
quoise and  sapphire  tints,  deepening  into 
dappled  purple  in  cloudy  seasons,  and  as- 
suming a  formidable  sable  hue  in  days  of 
storm.   THE  BAY  STATE  is  a  popular  name 
for  the  Commonwealth,  from  the  ancient 
title  of  the  Colony  of  Massachusetts  Bay. 

The  Arms  of  Massachusetts  show  a 
blue  shield,  and  thereon  an  Indian,  hold- 
ing in  his  right  hand  a  bow,  in  his  left 


and  the  neighboring 
Boston  Harbor,  vis- 
range,  older  than 


CHESTNUT    HILL  :    BOSTON    WATER-WORKS. 


THE  STATE   OF  MASSACHUSETTS. 


345 


MOUNT    HOLYOKE. 


hand  an  arrow,  point  downward,  all  of  gold  ;  and  in  the  upper 
corner  above  his  right  arm  a  silver  star  with  five  points.  The 
crest  is  a  wreath  of  blue  and  gold,  whereon  is  a  right  arm  bent 
at  the  elbow,  and  clothed  and  ruffled,  the  hand  grasping  a 
broad-sword,  all  of  gold.  The  silver  seal  sent  by  the  Company 
of  Massachusetts  Bay  to  Gov.  Endicott,  in  1629,  resembled 
the  still  earlier  Plymouth  Colony  seal,  and  bore  two  pine-trees 
and  a  leaf-clad  armed  Indian,  with  the  label,  "Come  over  and 
help  us."  It  was  a  perpetual  memorial  that  the  colonists  had 
journeyed  here  partly  to  convert  the  savages.  This  seal  was 
replaced  in  1684  by  royalist  devices,  from  England.  In  1780  the  present  State  seal  was 
prepared,  reviving  the  Indian,  and  adding  a  star,  "for  one  of  the  United  States  of  America." 
The  Motto  was  adopted  for  Massachusetts  by  the  Provincial  Congress,  sitting  in  the 
ancient  church  at  Watertown,  behind  the  American  lines,  in  August,  1775.  It  had  been 
first  written  in  the  Copenhagen-University  album,  in  1659,  by  the  celebrated  Algernon 
Sidney,  son  of  Dorothy  Percy  and  the  Earl  of  Leicester,  statesman,  soldier  and  exile  under 
Cromwell,  and  author  of  Discourses  Concerning  Governments.  As  written,  it  read  : 

Mamis  haec  inimica  tyrannis 

Ense  petit  placidam  sub  libertate  quieiem. 

The  last  line,  adopted  as  the  motto  of  Massachusetts,  may  be  translated  thus  :   "With  the 
sword  she  seeks  quiet  peace  under  liberty." 

The  Governors  of  the  Plymouth  colony 
(1620-92)  were  :  John  Carver,  Wm.  Bradford,  Ed- 
ward Winslow,  Thomas  Prence,  Josiah  Winslow, 
and  Thomas  Hinckley.  The  Governors  of  Massa- 
chusetts were  :  John  Endicott,  1629;  John  Win- 
throp,  1630— 4;  Thomas  Dudley,  1634;  John  Hayncs, 
1635  >  Henry  Vane,  1636;  John  Winthrop,  1637  ; 
Thomas  Dudley,  1640;  Richard  Bellingham, 
1641  ;  John  Winthrop,  1642  ;  John  Endicott, 
1644;  Thomas  Dudley,  1645;  John  Winthrop, 
1646;  John  Endicott,  1649;  Thomas  Dudley, 
1650;  John  Endicott,  1651;  Richard  Bellingham,  1654;  John  Endicott,  1655;  Richard 
Bellingham,  1665;  John  Leverett,  1672;  Simon  Bradstreet,  1679-86;  Joseph  Dudley, 
1686;  Sir  Edmund  Andros,  1686-9;  Simon  Bradstreet,  1689-92;  Sir  Wm.  Phips,  1692; 
Wm.  Stoughton  (acting),  1694;  the  Earl  of  Bellomont,  1699;  Wm.  Stoughton  (acting), 
1700;  Joseph  Dudley,  1702;  Wm.  Tailer  (acting),  1715;  Samuel  Shute,  1716;  Wm. 
Dummer  (acting),  1722;  Wm.  Burnet,  1728;  Wm.  Dummer  (acting),  1729;  Wm.  Tailer 
(acting),  1730;  Jonathan  Belcher,  1730;  Wm.  Shirley,  1741;  Spencer  Phips  (acting) 
1749;  Wm.  Shirley,  1753;  Thomas  Pownal,  1757;  Thomas  Hutchinson  (acting),  1760; 
Sir  Francis  Bernard,  Bart.,  1760;  Thomas  Hutchinson,  1769-74;  Gen.  Thomas  Gage, 
1774;  Provincial  Congress,  1774;  The  Council,  1775-80.  State  Governors :  John  Han- 
cock, 1780-85;  James  Bowdoin,  1785-87;  John  Hancock,  1787-93;  Samuel  Adams,  1794-97; 

Increase  Sumner,  1797-99;  Moses  Gill  (acting),  1799- 
1800;  Caleb  Strong,  1800-7;  James  Sullivan,  1807-8; 
Christopher  Gore,  1809-10;  Elbridge  Gerry,  1810-12; 
Caleb  Strong,  1812-16;  John  Brooks,  1816-23;  Wm. 
Eustis,  1823-25;  Levi  Lincoln,  1825-34;  John  Davis, 
1834-36;  Edward  Everett,  1836-40;  Marcus  Morton, 
1840-41;  John  Davis,  1841-43;  Marcus  Morton, 
PITTSFIELD  ;  COURT  HOUSE  AND  ATHEN/Euw.  1843-44;  George  N.  Briggs,  1844-51 ;  George  S.  Bout- 


GREYLOCK,    IN    BERKSHIRE. 


346  KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

well,  1851-53;  John  H.  Clifford,  1853-54;  Emory  Washburn,  1854-55; 
Henry  J.   Gardner,  1855-58;  Nathaniel  P.   Banks,    1858-61;  John  A. 
Andrew,  1861-66;  Alex.  H.  Bullock,  1866-69;  William  Claflin,  1869-72; 
Wm.  B.  Washburn,  1872-74;  Thos.  Talbot  (acting),  1874;  Wm.    Gas- 
ton,    1875-76;    Alexander    H.    Rice,    1876-79;    Thomas   Talbot, 
1879-80;   John   D.    Long,    1880-83;    Benjamin   F.    Butler, 
1883-84;  Geo.  D.  Robinson,  1884-87;  Oliver  Ames,  1887-89; 
J.  Q.  A.  Brackett,  1889-91 ;  and  Wm.  E.  Russell,  1891-93. 

Descriptive. —  Massachusetts   covers   an   area   of  8,040 
square  miles,  forming  a  parallelogram   1 60  miles  long  from 
CAMBRIDGE  :  CITY  HALL.  east  to  west,  and  50  miles  wide  from  north  to  south,  except 

on  the  coast,  where  it  reaches  a  breadth  of  90  miles.  The  land  still  merits  its  ancient  title 
of  "The  Place  of  Hills,"  for  there  is  but  little  absolutely  level  ground.  The  coast  is  lined 
with  highlands  —  Po  Hill  and  the  Oldtown  Hills,  about  Newburvport;  Castle  Hill,  at  Ips- 
wich ;  the  rugged  heights  of  Cape  Ann ;  the  Middlesex  Fells  and  their  seaboard  foot-hills  ; 
the  Blue  Hills  of  Milton ;  the  Manomet  Bluffs,  below  Plymouth ;  and  many  others. 
Farther  inland,  the  country  becomes  mountainous,  culminating  in  Mount  Wachusett  (2,018 
feet)  and  Mount  Watatic  (1,847  feet)>  in  Worcester  County.  The  beautiful  valley  of  the 
Connecticut  is  fringed  with  steep  trap-rock  hills,  the  most 
conspicuous  of  which  are  Mount  Tom  and  Mount  Holyoke 
(1,120),  near  Northampton.  Berkshire,  the  westernmost 
county,  is  covered  with  picturesque  highlands,  and  has 
many  rare  beauties  of  natural  scenery.  On  its  eastern  side, 
from  north  to  south,  runs  the  Hoosac  Range 
(1,200  to  2,500  feet),  a  continuation  of  the  Green 
Mountains,  pierced  by  the  famous  Hoosac  Tun- 
nel ;  and  across  the  narrow  Housatonic  Valley 
rises  the  higher  Taconic  Range,  with  the  peaks 
of  Greylock  (3,535  feet),  Mount  Everett  and 
others.  This  beautiful  region  of  mountains  and  lakes, 
and  pastoral  valleys  is  frequented  in  summer  by  New- 
York  and  Boston  families,  who  have  country-houses  at 
Lenox,  Stockbridge,  and  Pittsfield.  "Somebody  has  called  Berkshire  the  Piedmont  of 
America.  I  do  not  know  how  just  the  appellation  may  be,  but  I  do  know  that  if  Piedmont 
can  rightly  be  called  the  Berkshire  of  Europe,  it  must  be  a  very  delightful  region. " 

The  Merrimac  crosses  the  northeastern  corner  of  Massachusetts  for  35  miles,  rising  in 
the  White  Mountains,  and  entering  the  sea  at  venerable  Newburyport.  It  has  some  com- 
merce, being  navigable  for  small  vessels  as  far  up  as  Haverhill  (18  miles);  but  its  chief  value 
is  in  a  series  of  enormous  and  fully  improved  water-powers,  at  Lowell,  Lawrence,  and  Haver- 
hill.  The  Connecticut  River,  rising  near  the  Canadian  frontier,  and  crossing  Massachusetts 
for  50  miles,  is  also  valuable  mainly  for  its  water-powers,  de- 
veloped by  dams  at  Holyoke,  Turner's  Falls,  and  other  points.  The 
minor  streams,  the  Charles,  Taunton,  Nashua,  Concord,  Black- 
stone,  Deerfield,  and  Housatonic  are  useful  in  the  same  way,  and 
also  afford  interest  to  artists,  local  poets  and  rustic  fishermen. 
There  are  scores  of  smaller  streams,  of  value  for  their  water- 
power,  most  of  which  is  utilized  by  factories. 

The  largest  unbroken  wilderness  in  Massachusetts  lies 
in  the  Old  Colony,  near  the  scene  of  the  first  settlements, 
between  Plymouth  and  Cape  Cod  ;  and  so  completely  has 
this  tract  remained  in  the  kindly  care  of  nature,  that  it  now 
harbors  thousands  of  deer,  guarded  by  the  State  game- 


WINCHESTER  :     TOWN    HALL. 


WORCESTER  :     POST-OFFICE. 


THE  STATE   OF  MASSACHUSETTS. 


347 


FALL    RIVER  :     POST-OFFICE. 


laws.  Farther  around  towards  Buzzards  Bay  are  large 
cedar  swamps,  amid  which  gleam  several  bright  lakes  and 
ponds.  Along  the  southeastern  coast  extend  thousands 
of  acres  of  cranberry  bogs,  where  these  pleasant  fruits  are 
cultivated  more  extensively  than  anywhere  else  in  Amer- 
ica. Other  localities  on  the  coast,  especially  the  long 
Holland-like  meadows  of  Essex,  with  the  blue  sea  peep- 
ing over  their  verge,  produce  great  quantities  of  salt  hay. 
The  most  prominent  natural  feature  is  Cape  Cod,  a 
sandy  peninsula  several  miles  broad  and  65  miles  long,  pro- 
jecting east,  then  running  north,  and  then  for  a  short  dis- 
tance west,  like  "a  bare  and  bended  right  arm,"  sheltering  Cape-Cod  Bay,  and  with  Cape 
Ann  (the  left  arm,  on  guard)  forming  Massachusetts  Bay.  The  cape  has  twelve  towns,  famous 
for  gallant  seamen.  The  harbors  of  Chatham,  Hyannis,  Cotuit,  and  Wood's  Holl  are  on 
the  outside,  those  of  Barnstable,  Wellfleet,  and  Provincetown  on  the  inside.  Provincetown, 
near  the  great  revolving  light  on  Race  Point,  the  tip  end  of  Cape  Cod,  is  a  quaint  old 
port  and  town  of  4,642  inhabitants,  120  miles  from  Boston  by  rail,  and  55  miles  by  water. 
Martha's  Vineyard  is  an  island  of  120  square  miles  (21  by  six  miles)  off  the  southern 
point  of  the  State  (at  Wood's  Holl),  with  4,369  inhabitants,  forming  six 
townships,  and  (with  the  adjacent  town  of  Gosnold,  covering  13 
islands)  making  up  the  county  of  Dukes.  At  one  end  of  the  island 
rise  the  sandy  hills  of  Chappaquiddick,  and  at  the  other  end 
the  surf  pounds  and  tears  against  the  tremendous  cliffs  of  Gay 
Head,  with  their  folded  and  vividly  colored  strata  of  v/hite  and 
j  -  yellow,  red  and  green,  brown  and  black.  Gay- Head  town  and 
the  township  of  Mashpee,  on  the  south  side  of  Cape  Cod,  are  re- 
served for  a  few  hundred  Indians,  the  descendants  of  the  Cape- 
Cod  and  island  tribes,  with  an  admixture  of  Portuguese 
and  African  blood.  The  coast  Indians  were  always  loyal 
to  the  colonists,  and  fought  bravely  alongside  their  white 
neighbors  against  hostile  natives,  and  afterwards  against 
the  redcoats  of  England.  Their  descendants  live  a 
strange,  unsettled  life  and  excel  mainly  in  the  whale- 
fisheries.  In  the  old  days,  Edgartown,  the  capital  of  the 
Vineyard,  was  celebrated  for  its  successful  whaling  fleets 
and  daring  seamen,  but  these  have  passed  away,  and  for  40  years  the  island  has  been  falling 
off  in  population.  It  enjoys  considerable  fame  as  a  summer-resort,  together  with  Nantucket, 
another  lonely  island,  farther  out  to  sea,  and  reached  by  daily  steamers  from  Wood's  Holl 
and  Martha's  Vineyard.  Nantucket  covers  60  square  miles,  and  has  3,265  inhabitants,  being 
fewer  than  at  the  time  of  the  first  Provincial  census,  in  1 765,  and  only  a  third  of  the  popula- 
tion in  the  palmy  days  of  1840,  when  Nantucket  ships  were  seen  in  all  ports. 

The  Geology  of  the  Bay  State  is  concerned  mainly  with 
metamorphic  rock,  and  the  glacial  drift  of  Cape  Cod  and  Ply- 
mouth County,  in  sands,  gravel,  and  bowlders  ;  the  conglom- 
erates and  slates  around  Boston  ;  the  new  red  sandstone  of 
thetriassic  period,  in  the  Connecticut  Valley,  imprinted  with 
the  huge  footprints  of  pre-historic  animals  ;  and  the  meta- 
morphosed rocks  of  the  Berkshire  Hills.  There  are  large 
granite  quarries  on  Cape  Ann  and  in  the  Blue  Hills,  near 
Boston.  At  Longmeadow,  in  the  Connecticut  Valley,  great 
quantities  of  red  sandstone  are  quarried.  The  white-marble 
quarries  of  Lee  have  been  worked  for  many  years,  and  BOSTON  :  CHAMBER  OF  COMMERCE. 


FALL    RIVER  :     CITY    HALL. 


348 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


GLOUCESTER  :     CAPE-ANN    GRANITE    CO. 


furnished  material  for  the  United- States  Capitol  at 
Washington.  Among  other  mineral  products  are 
the  silver-bearing  lead  of  Newburyport,  whose 
mines  are  no  longer  worked  ;  the  emery  of  the  west- 
ern counties ;  and  the  hematite  iron  ores  of  Berk- 
shire. The  sand  used  for  making  fine  cut-glass 
ware  in  Pennsylvania  comes  from  Cheshire,  in 
Berkshire  County.  A  very  hard  and  graphitic  coal 
is  found  in  the  southeastern  counties,  but  it  cannot 
be  operated  profitably. 

The  granite-producing  industry  is  dominated  by 
the  Cape- Ann  Granite  Company,  founded  in  1869,  by  Col.  Jonas  H.  French,  still  its  president. 
Its  office  is  in  Boston  ;  and  the  works  are  at  Gloucester,  near  its  great  quarries  at  Bay  View, 
where  the  company  owns  300  acres,  and  keeps  from  400  to  700  men  at  work.  These  quarries 
were  opened  in  1849,  and  lay  idle  from  1865  to  1869,  when  they  were  purchased  by  the  present 
company.  The  granite  is  carried  on  a  steam  railway  over  a  mile  to  the  wharves,  where  it  is 
shipped  for  distant  ports.  Many  millions  of  paving  blocks  have  been  sent  hence  to  every 
great  American  city,  and  hundreds  of  monuments,  besides  vast  numbers  of  engine-beds  for 
the  Michigan  copper-mines,  and  gun-platforms  for  forts.  Among  the  large  structures 

built  from  this  quarry  are  the  Boston  and  Baltimore 
Post-offices,  the  new  Suffolk-County  Court  House  at 
Boston,  the  Danvers  Asylum,  the  East-River  Bridge 
piers,  the  Charles-River-Aqueduct  Bridge,  the  won- 
derful "hanging-stairways"  in  the  Philadelphia  Public 
Building,  and  many  notable  Government  edifices. 

The  Climate  ranges  from  20°  below  zero  to  100° 
above  (Fahrenheit),  with  frequent  sharp  transitions, 
long  winters,  arduous  springs,  lovely  summers  and 
pleasant  autumns.  The  finest  season  in  the  year  is 
the  Indian  summer,  coming  after  the  late  September 
frosts,  when  for  two  or  three  weeks  gentle  southwest 
winds  prevail,  with  a  wonderfully  transparent  atmosphere,  skies  of  the  purest  azure,  and 
brilliant  cloud-effects.  The  winter  comes  down  upon  the  land  in  December,  and  lasts  into 
March,  with  abundant  snow  and  ice,  especially  in  the  interior  counties.  The  mean  average 
temperature  is  49°,  at  Boston,  and  the  annual  rainfall  is  42  inches.  The  weather  of  eastern 
Massachusetts  is  foretold  with  surprising  accuracy  by  the  scientific  observers  who  occupy 
the  observatory  on  Blue  Hill,  endowed  by  the  generosity  of  the  Rotch  family,  of  Milton. 

Agriculture  employs  80,000  persons,  on  45,000  farms,  of  which  41,000  are  owned  by 
their  occupants.  The  domestic  animals,  valued  at  $17,000,000,  include  272,000  head  of 
cattle,  66,000  horses,  75,000  sheep  and  lambs,  135,000  swine,  15,000  dogs,  7,500  swarms  of 
bees,  and  1,820,000  domestic  fowls.  The  valuation  of  the  farms  is  $216,000,000,  being 
$111,000,000  for  the  land  (939,000  cultivated  acres, 
at  $60,000,000;  1,570,000  uncultivated,  at  $25,- 
000,000;  1,390,000  woodland,  at  $26,000,000); 
$74,000,000  for  buildings  (46,100  dwellings,  at 
$1,010  each;  and  50,275  barns,  at  $409);  $17,- 
000,000  for  animals;  $7,000,000  for  machinery; 
and  $7,000,000  for  fruit-trees  and  vines.  The 
annual  product  of  the  farms  is  $48,000,000,  includ- 
ing $13,000,000  in  dairy  articles;  $11,000,000  in 
hay,  straw,  and  fodder ;  and  $5,000,000  in.  vegeta- 
bles. Among  the  articles  are  257,000  pounds  of  GLOUCESTER  ;  CAPE-ANN  GRANITE  QUARRIES. 


GLOUCESTER  :     CAPE-ANN    GRANITE   CO. 


THE   STATE   OF  MASSACHUSETTS. 


349 


wool,  9,700,000  pounds  of  butter,  360,000  pounds  of  cheese,  73,000,000  gallons  of  milk, 
50.000  gallons  of  maple  syrup,  800,000  pounds  of  maple-sugar,  5,000,000  gallons  of  cider, 
7,000,000  dozen  eggs,  4,200,000  pounds  of  tobacco,  4,500,000  bushels  of  apples,  and 


4,000,000    quarts     of 
Cod  and  the  adjoining 
Rochester,  produce 
This  crop  has  trebled 
are     prepared     every 
The  soil  is  not  fer- 
tics,  but  agriculture  has  ' — — ^ — 
by  the  State  and  by  local  socie- 
returns,  as  a  reward  for  very  hard 
ties,  especially,  the  drain  of  emi- 
the  cities  have  so  far  depopulated 
tensive  areas  of  abandoned  farm- 
claimed  by  the  forests.     Mean- 
raise  enough  provisions  for  her 
value     of     farm-products     rose    from 
$47,000,000  in    1885,   tne  Sam  Demg 
dens   and  dairies.      This  is   the  least 
Union,  only  9  per  cent,  of  its  workers 
The  first  State  Commissioner  of  Agri- 


strawberries.       The    lowlands    of    Cape 
towns,  Plymouth,  Middleboro,  Carver  and 
yearly    300,000    bushels    of    cranberries, 
since    1883,    and   new   bogs 
season. 

tile,  except  in  a  few  locali- 
long  been  carefully  fostered 
ties,  and  produces  valuable 
labor.     In  the  western  coun- 
gration  and  the  drift  toward 
the  hill-towns  that  ex- 
lands     are     being     re- 
while,  the  State  fails  to 
own  consumption.   The 
$32,000,000  in  1865  to  ' 
chiefly   in    market-gar- 
agricultural  State  in  the 
being    on    the    farms, 
culture  was   appointed 
culture  began  its  work 


Tile.  W 

SPRINGFIELD  I 
UNITED-STATES  ARMORY. 


in  1836,  and  the  State  Board  of  Agri- 
in  1852.  It  has  44  members,  and  has  published  over  400,000  copies  of  its  38  yearly  reports. 
The  Massachusetts  Agricultural  College,  at  Amherst,  called  the  best  in  America,  has  an 
experimental  farm  of  383  acres,  on  a  rich  plain,  girt  around  with  mountains.  The  Bussey  In- 
stitution, near  Boston,  is  a  school  of  agriculture  and  horticulture  attached  to  Harvard 
University,  with  a  handsome  Victoria  Gothic  building,  and  rich  endowments.  Connected 
therewith  is  the  Arnold  Arboretum,  containing  all  manner  of  trees  and  shrubs  that  can  live 
outdoors  here,  and  endowed  with  $100,000.  137  acres  of  the  360  belonging  to  the  institu- 
tion are  included  in  the  Arboretum ;  and  also  form  part  of  the  Boston  park  system. 

Parks  and  Pleasure-Grounds  have  been  provided  for  the  people  in  'great  variety. 
The  oldest  of  these  is  the  famous  Boston  Common,  with  48  acres  of  velvety  lawns  and 
venerable  trees,  set  apart  for  public  uses  in  1634.  Here  witches,  Quakers,  and  murderers 
were  executed,  and  scores  of  hostile  Indians  bravely  suffered  the  death-penalty.  At  a  later 
period,  its  hills  were  covered  with  the  camps  and  forts  of  the  British  garrison  ;  and  in  1812 
the  American  troops  assembled  for  the  defence  of  the  town  encamped  here.  In  1861-5 
scores  of  thousands  of  volunteers  were  reviewed  on  the  parade  ground,  before  their  depar- 
^_  ture  Southward.  Adjoining  the  Common,  on  the  west,  is  the  Public  Garden, 

with  its  statuary,  and  glorious  displays  of  tulips,  pansies,  rhododendrons,  and 
other  flowers.  Franklin  Park  covers  500  acres  of 
picturesque  hill-country  southwest  of  Boston,  and  is 
visited  every  pleasant  summer-day  by  scores  of 
thousands  of  people.  The  Marine  Park,  at  South 
Boston,  has  a  long  promenade-pier  projecting  into 
the  harbor,  near  Fort  Independence.  The  Free 
Public  Forest  at  Lynn  covers  1,400  acres  of  Trosach- 
like  hills  and  lakes,  around  the  famous  Dungeon 
Rock,  and  with  pleasant  boulevards  and  parkways.  The  parks  at  Springfield,  Worcester, 
New  Bedford,  Cambridge,  and  other  cities,  the  Mall  at  Newburyport,  and  the  commons  of 
the  rural  villages,  afford  pleasant  recreation-grounds.  Five  miles  north  of  Boston  are  the 
picturesque  Middlesex  Fells,  a  region  of  rocky  hills  and  gorges,  covering  six  square  miles, 


BOSTON  :    ARMORY    FIRST    CORPS    OF   CADETS. 


350 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


SHERBORN  :     REFORMATORY    PRISON    FOR    WOMEN. 


with  ponds  and  cascades,  and  peaks  over- 
looking the  sea,  on  one  side,  and  on  the 
other,  Monadnock  and  Wachusett  and 
many  far-away  blue  mountains.  The  sub- 
urbs of  Boston  are  famed  for  their  beauty. 
It  is  an  undulating  region,  finely  wooded, 
and  brightened  here  and  there  by  crystal 
ponds  and  arms  of  the  sea.  Everywhere 
there  are  pleasant  country-seats,  and  here  and  there  the  ancient  villages  nestle  under  im- 
memorial elms,  with  venerable  mansions  of  the  Georgian  era,  and  historic  churches  of  the 
Puritan  days.  Admirable  roads  traverse  these  environs ;  and  the  railways,  diverging  from 
Boston  like  spokes  from  a  hub,  afford  facilities  for  an  immense  suburban  population. 

The  State  Government  is  composed  of  a  governor,  lieutenant-governor,  secretary, 
treasurer  and  receiver-general,  auditor,  eight  councillors,  and  a  legislature  of  40  senators  and 
240  representatives.  The  Legislature  is  still  frequently  called  ' '  The  Great  and  General  Court. " 
The  State  House,  which  Dr.  Holmes  calls  "the  hub  of  the  solar  system,"  stands  on  the 
crest  of  Beacon  Hill,  fronting  Boston  Common,  and  is  a  dignified  structure,  dating  from  1795, 
with  interesting  statues  of  Daniel  Webster,  Horace  Mann,  John  A.  Andrew,  and  Washing- 
ton, the  battle-flags  of  1861-65,  and  the  State  library.  For  over  a  century  a  large  wooden  cod- 
fish has  been  suspended  in  the  Hall  of  Representatives,  typifying  an  industry  of  much  value  to 
Massachusetts,  and  "a  greater  source  of  wealth  than  all  the  mines  of  California."  The  Sen- 
ate chamber  contains  valuable  portraits  of  State  dignitaries,  and  also  battle-relics  from  Lex- 
ington, Bunker  Hill  and  Ben- 
nington.  The  lofty  dome  is 
covered  with  pure  gold  leaf,  and 
shines  afar  over  scores  of  leagues 
of  sea  and  land.  An  extension 
larger  than  the  original  build- 
ing, and  harmonious  in  architec- 
ture, was  added  to  the  State 
House  in  1888-92. 

For  two  centuries  Massachu-  BOSTON  :  C1TY  HOSPITAL. 

setts  had  the  most  complete  democratic  government  ever  seen,  each  town  forming  a  semi- 
independent  republic,  whose  qualified  voters  (male  church-members,  until  the  restoration    ' 
the  Stuarts,  and  after  that  the  entire  adult  male  population)  assembled  in  town-meetinj 
levied  local  taxes,  appropriated  moneys,  elected  officers,  and  chose  representatives. 

The  Massachusetts  Volunteer  Militia  includes  406  officers  and  4,923  enlisted  men,  organ- 
ized in  two  brigades,  composed  of  6  regiments  (67  companies)  of  infantry,  2  battalions  (( 
companies)  of  cadets,  2  battalions  of  cavalry,  and  2  batteries  of  field  artillery  (12  guns  ant 
1 6  Gatlings).  The  First  Infantry  is  from  Boston  ;  the  Second  from  western  Massachusetts  : 

the  Fifth  and  Sixth  from  Middlesex  County  am 
Boston ;    the  Eighth  from  Essex  County ;  anc 
the  Ninth  from  Boston.    The  Naval  Battalion, 
four  companies,  includes  many  yachtsmen,  ar 
is  in  a  highly  efficient  condition.      Each  brigade 
encamps  for  a  week  every  year,  on  the  fortifit 
State  camp-grounds  at  Framingham ;   and  the 
Cadets  encamp  at  Hingham  and  Magnolia,  or 
the  coast.      This  entire  body  of  troops  is  kept  in 
a  state  of  high  discipline  and  efficiency.     It  costs 
the  State  nearly  $200,000  a  year.     The  Ancient 
SOUTH  BOSTON  :  PERKINS  SCHOOL  FOR  THE  BLIND.       and    Honorable  Artillery  Company,   the  oldest 


THE  STATE   OF  MASSACHUSETTS. 


35  I 


BOSTON  :     THE    POST-OFFICE. 


military  organization  in  America,  has  its  headquarters  in  Faneuil  Hall,  Boston,  and  is  largely 
composed  of  officers  of  other  commands.  It  was  organized  in  1638,  and  for  more  than  a  century 
was  the  chief  school  of  military  art  for  New  England.  The  membership 

numbers  over  600.      Expensive  and  elaborate  armories  have  ft  been    built    at 

Boston  and  Worcester  for  the  accommodation  of  the  militia,  at          XS?*.        t^ie  public  cost. 

Charities  and  Corrections. — The  State 
Board  of  Lunacy  and  Charity  has  nine  mem- 
bers, with  Superintendents  of  Out-Door  Poor 
and  In-Door  Poor,  an  Inspector  of  Institu- 
tions, and  other  officials.  Upwards  of  16,000 
persons  are  in  receipt  of  public  charity.  The 
establishments  for  the  relief  of  the  poor  are 
valued  at  $9,000,000,  one  third  of  which  per- 
tains to  city  and  town  almshouses,  and  the  rest 
to  eleven  State  institutions.  There  are  6, 500 
insane  persons,  4,000  of  whom  are  cared  for 
in  the  State  Lunatic  Hospitals,  at  Worcester, 
Danvers,  Taunton,  Northampton  and  Westborough,  and  at  other  State  institutions  and 
public  hospitals.  In  the  last  decade  the  population  of  Massachusetts  gained  26  per  cent., 
but  its  insane  population  gained  50  per  cent.  The  palace  asylums  at  Danvers  and  Worces- 
ter are  among  the  finest  buildings  in  America.  They  represent  an  already  obsolete  system, 
to  be  replaced  by  cottage  hospitals.  The  Danvers  Asylum  includes  ten  enormous  Eliza- 
bethan struc-  I  tures,  built  at  a  cost  of  $1,600,000,  crowning  one  of  the  finest  hill- 
tops of  Essex,  £^  overlooking  vast  areas,  from  the  ocean  to  Monadnock  and  Wachu- 

sett,  and  surrounded  with  exquisite  Italian  gar- 
dens. There  are  150  insane  persons  boarded  out 
in  families,  in  a  new  experiment,  based  on  the 
Scottish  system.  A  new  asylum  for  the 
chronic  insane  is  being  built  at  Medfield. 
Not  more  than  one  eighth  of  the  State's 
patients  have  a  reasonable  hope  of  recov- 
ery. The  only  Epileptic  Hospital  in 
America  is  at  Baldwinsville.  It  was 
founded  in  1882,  by  private  munificence  ; 
but  the  State  appropriated  $55,000  to  it  in  1889,  for  new  buildings,  and  received  the  right 
to  send  patients.  Children  rendered  by  disease  profane,  selfish  and  imbecile  are  here  made 
quiet,  thoughtful  and  conscientious. 

The  State  Primary  School,  at  Monson  ;  the  Lyman  (Reform)  School  for  Boys,  at  West- 
borough  ;  the  State  Industrial  School  for  Girls,  at  Lancaster  ;  and  various  private  charitable 
institutions  at  West  Newton,  Salem,  Thompson's  Island,  and  elsewhere,  provide  for  and 
educate  1,400  poor,  friendless,  and  ignorant  "  Children  of  the  State,"  and  teach  them  ways  to 
earn  an  honest  and  useful  living.  The  cost  exceeds  $250,000  a  year.  The  State  Farm  at 
Bridgewater  is  a  model  institution,  with  hospital,  prison,  insane  asylum  and  other  adjuncts. 
It  has  an  average  of  600  inmates.  The  State  Almshouse  at  Tewksbury  takes  care  of 
1,000  persons.  In  the  charitable  and  reformatory  institutions  70  per  cent,  of  the  people 
are  of  foreign  birth,  and  90  per  cent,  of  the  children  in  the  reformatories  are  of  foreign 
parentage.  The  local  authorities  say 
that  these  startling  figures  are  based  on 
the  well-known  fact  that  the  mass  of 
immigrants  are  of  the  class  but  one  de- 
gree above  actual  want.  The  Superin- 
tendent of  In-door  Poor  sends  out  of  BOSTON  HARBOR  .  FORT  ,NOEPENDENCe. 


TON   I      SUFFOLK-COUNTY    COURT-HOUSE. 


352 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


GLOUCESTER     HARBOR. 


the  State  each  year  600  persons,  belonging  elsewhere, 
and  becoming  charges  on  the  charity  of  Massachusetts. 
The  State  Prison  at  Charlestown  (Boston)  contains 
above  600  chronic  criminals.  The  Reformatory  for 
men,  at  Concord  (750  inmates),  and  the  Reformatory 
Prison  for  Women,  at  Sherborn  (250  inmates),  are 
doing  a*noble  work  in  reclaiming  immature  and  un- 
hardened  offenders.  There  are  also  21  county  and 
many  municipal  prisons  and  correctional  institutions, 
capable  of  holding  4, 500  prisoners.  Contract  labor  in 
the  prisons  was  abolished  in  1887,  and  all  work  done 
by  convicts  is  for  the  benefit  of  the  State.  While  the 
population  of  Massachusetts  has  increased  about  82 
per  cent,  during  30  years,  its  prison  population  has  increased  but  75  per  cent.,  notwith- 
standing in  recent  years  a  more  effective  enforcement  of  law  has  relatively  increased  the 
number  of  sentences.  The  records  show  a  marked  decrease  of  crimes  against  person  and 
property,  and  an  increase  in  crimes  directly  connected  with  intemperance. 

Health  and  Mortality. —  The  State  Board  of  Health  (founded  in  1842)  has  seven 
members.  There  are  about  24,000  deaths  in  Massachusetts  yearly,  one  fourth  of  which  are 
from  consumption  and  acute  lung  diseases.  One  third  of  the  deaths  are  of  children  under 

five.  July  and  August  are  the  most  fatal  months. 
The  changes  in  temperature  are  apt  to  be  sudden  and 
severe,  and  the  east  winds  of  the  coast  are  as  danger- 
ous in  winter  as  they  are  agreeable  in  summer. 

United-States  Institutions.— The  chief  Na- 
tional building  in  Massachusetts  is  the  Post-Office  at 
Boston,  a  large  granite  structure,  containing  the 
United-States  Sub-Treasury  and  the  court-rooms.  It 
cost  $6,000,000,  and  is  adorned  with  groups  of  col- 
ossal statuary.  The  Custom  House  at  Boston  is  a 
massive  and  imposing  structure,  built  in  1837-49,  at  a 
cost  of  $1,100,000,  with  walls,  roof,  and  dome  of 
stone.  It  is  in  the  form  of  a  Greek  cross,  surrounded 
by  32  immense  fluted  columns.  The  customs  build- 
ings at  Salem,  Newburyport  and  other  coast  cities  are  also  of  stone.  The  United-States 
Armory  at  Springfield  occupies  a  park  of  72  acres,  on  Armory  Hill,  and  has  a  great  quad- 
rangle of  buildings.  During  the  years,  1861-65,  the  works  ran  night  and  day,  with  3,000 
operatives,  making  800,000  stand  of  arms,  at  a  cost  of  $12,000,000.  In  the  adjacent  arsenal 
500,000  stand  of  arms  can  be  stored,  and  vast  quantities  are  always  kept  in  readiness.  The 
United-States  Arsenal  at  Watertown,  near  Boston,  was  founded  in  1811,  and  became  a  gar- 


MANCHESTER-BY-THE-SEA  :     COOLIDGE    MEMGKIAL 
LIBRARY    AND   GRAND-ARMY    HALL. 


risoned  post  in 
made  here,  and 
plant  here  for 
machinery  has 


CAMBRIDGE  :     CITY    LIBRARY. 


1816.      Most  of  the  ordnance  stores  used  in  the  Mexican  War  were 
also  vast  quantities  for  the  Secession  War.     There  is  an  extensive 
making  cannon  and  gun  carriages,  but  since    1 888  much  of  the 
been  removed  to  other  arsenals.     The  grounds  cover  100  acres, 
and  besides  the  factories,  include  barracks  and  officers'  quarters. 
Navy  Yard  at  Charlestown  (Boston)  covers  over  100  acres, 
with  its  work-shops,  barracks,   store-houses,  ship- 
houses,    and    rope-walk.       The   great    hammered- 
granite  dry-dock  cost  $700,000.     The  Frolic,  Inde- 
pendence,   l\Ierri))iac,    Cumberland,    Huron,    Talla- 
poosa,    Vermont,    Boxer,    Hartford,    SJurwnee,    and 
many  other  famous  battle-ships  were   built  here ; 


THE  STATE   OF  MASSACHUSETTS.  353 

and  the  Constitution  and  Argus  came  from  neighboring  yards.  The  Navy  Yard  dates  from 
1798 ;  and  when  need  arises  it  employs  2,000  men.  There  is  a  garrison  of  marines,  a  salut- 
ing battery,  and  a  receiving  ship  (the  Wabasli)  in  the  stream. 

The   Fortifications  of  the  coast  include  the  crumbling  and  long-abandoned  defences 
of  Newburyport,  Salem,  Marblehead,  Plymouth  and  New  Bedford.     The  port  of  Boston 


f!^)jifmM;W^:i!lViV(lfi!l!!W!lP?l''l'''1'" 

CAMBRIDGE   AND    BOSTON  I     HARVARD    UNIVERSITY. 


is  protected  by  a  group  of  fine  old  fortresses,  carrying  600  guns,  and  built  on  islands.  Fort 
Independence,  on  the  site  of  the  Castle  of  colonial  days,  is  the  oldest  virgin  fortress  in  the 
world,  having  been  first  armed  as  a  defence  in  1634.  Across  the  harbor  rise  the  ponderous 
earthworks  and  lofty  granite  citadel  of  Fort  Winthrop.  Farther  out,  toward  the  sea,  is 
Fort  Warren,  sometime  famous  as  a  prison  for  Confederate  officers. 


AMHERST:    AMHERST  COLLEGE. 


354  JCItfG^S  HANDBOOK  OF  TffE    UNITED   STATES. 

The  Massachusetts  coast  is  dotted  with  light- 
houses, fog-horns,  and  life-saving  stations,  from  the 
Plum-Island  lights  at  Newburyport  around  the  two 
capes,  and  on  the  southern  islands.  Conspicuous 
among  these  are  the  Sankoty-Head  light,  at  Nan- 
tucket  ;  the  Highland  Light,  on  the  outer  side  of 
Cape  Cod  ;  the  Minot's-Ledge  Light,  rising  from 
the  sea,  off  Boston  Harbor;  and  the  lofty  twin 
towers  of  the  Thatcher's-Island  Lights,  on  Cape 
Ann.  Boston  Light  dates  from  1715,  and  was  destroyed  by  the  British  fleet  in  1775. 

The  chief  station  of  the  United-States  Commission  of  Fish  and  Fisheries  is  at  Wood's 
Holl,  on  the  south  coast,  where  there  are  extensive  biological  laboratories,  fish-hatcheries 
and  aquaria ;  and  many  eminent  scientific  men  spend  long  seasons  here,  studying  the  habits 
of  cod  and  mackerel,  lobsters  and  oysters,  and  other  dwellers  in  the  sea. 

Educational. —  The  public-school  system  is  based  on  the  ordinance  of  1647  :  "Now, 
that  learning  may  not  be  buried  in  the  graves  of  our  fathers,  every  township  in  this  jurisdic- 
tion, after  the  Lord  hath  increased  them  to  50  householders,  shall  then  forthwith  appoint 
one  within  their  town  to  teach  all  such  children  as  shall  resort  to  him,  to  write  and  read." 
These  village-schools  and  the  grammar-schools  ordained  for  towns  of  100  families  we're  sup- 
ported by  taxation.  And  so,  with  frequent  improvements,  the  public-school  system  has  ad- 
vanced mightily.  Of  late  years,  women  have  had  (and  used)  the  right  to  serve  on  and  vote 
for  school  committees.  The  boys  of  many  high-schools  are  subjected  to  military  drill, 
under  arms;  and  the  Boston  School  Regiment,  1,200  strong,  marching  like  regulars,  is  re- 
viewed every  year  on  Boston  Common,  by  the  Governor  ;  and  the  Second  School  Regiment, 
800  strong,  has  yearly  field-days  in  Essex  or  Middlesex.  Within  a  recent  period  the  Catholic 
Church  has  founded  many  parochial  schools  for  her  children.  A  large  proportion  of  the 
122,000  illiterates  of  above  ten  years  are  Irish  domestics.  One  third  of  the  foreigners  are 
illiterate,  and  so  are  one  fourteenth  of  the  natives. 

The  State  Board  of  Education  is  charged  to  see  that  each  child  has  a  good  common- 
school  education,  with  training  also  in  morals  and  manners.  There  are  five  normal  schools, 
at  Bridgewater  (founded  in  1840),  Framingham  (founded  in  1839),  Salem  (1854),  Westfield 
(1839),  and  Worcester  (1874),  and  a  normal  art-school  at  Boston  (1873),  the  total  number  of 
pupils  being  1,350.  The  State  contains  7,329  public  schools,  with  10,000  teachers,  and  a 

total  attendance  of  376,000  pupils.      Since 
1884  the  cities  and  towns  are  obliged  by  law 
to  provide  all  text-books  and  other  school- 
supplies  free  of  charge.     The  State  also  sup- 
ports schools  for  the  blind,  for  deaf-mutes, 
for  the  feeble-minded,  and  for  juvenile  of- 
fenders and  truants,  containing   1,500  chil- 
dren.   There  are  244  high-schools,  with  814 
teachers,  and  26,000  pupils  ;  and  270  even- 
ing schools,  with   loo  teachers  and  30,000  pupils 
(mostly  adults).      The  annual  expenditure  for  the 
public  schools  is  in  excess  of  $8,500,000.     There 
are  also  511   academies  and  private  schools,  with 
60,000  pupils. 

Harvard  University  is  one  of  the  foremost  in- 
stitutions of  learning  in  the  world,  and  has  been 
for  two  and  a  half  centuries  a  growing  and  bene- 
ficent power  in  American  life.  Its  foundation 
was  ordered  by  the  Massachusetts  legislature  in 


WILLIAMSTOWN  I     WILLIAMS    COLLEGE. 


THE   STATE   OF  MASSACHUSETTS. 


355 


BOSTON    I 
MASSACHUSETTS    INSTITUTE   OF   TECHNOLOGY. 


1636  ;  and  the  next  year  Newtowne,  across  the  Charles 
River  from  Boston,  was  chosen  as  its  seat.  In  1638 
John  Harvard,  a  young  English  pastor,  died  at  Charles- 
town  and  bequeathed  his  library  and  ^"800  in  money  to 
the  inchoate  college,  to  which  his  name  was  then  given, 
the  name  of  Newtowne  also  being  changed  to  Cam- 
bridge, in  honor  of  the  famous  English  university  where 
many  of  the  founders  of  New  England  had  received 
their  education.  The  little  Puritan  seminary  of  those 
ancient  days  has  developed  finally  into  the  most  illustrious  university  in  America,  with  a 
roll  of  14,000  graduates,  including  Otis  and  the  Adamses,  Hancock  and  Warren,  Channing 
and  Everett,  Sparks  and  Palfrey,  Gushing  and  Bancroft,  Emerson  and  Holmes,  Motley  and 
Lowell,  Sumner  and  Dana,  Thoreau,  Clarke  and  Hale,  and  many  other  eminent  men.  The 
university  was  established  outside  of  the  activities  of  the  metropolis,  but  could  be  placed  at 
no  more  distant  point  by  reason  of  the  hostile  Indians.  In  1775  the  students,  library  and 
apparatus  were  sent  away,  and  the  buildings  long  remained  barracks  for  the  Continental 
troops,  besieging  the  British  army  in  Boston.  Harvard  has  a  number  of  dormitories  and 
other  buildings,  some  of  them  very  old,  like  Massachusetts,  Harvard,  Hollis,  Stoughton 
and  University  Halls,  having  a  puritanical  simplicity ;  and  it  has  also  many  others  with  all 
the  bravery  of  19th-century  architecture.  The  lovely  quadrangle  encloses  green  lawns 

and  ancient  trees,  and  rests  in  a  perpetual  air  of  philo- 
sophic calm.  Gore  Hall  and  its  branches  contain  377,000 
volumes,  and  many  rare  old  books  and  relics ;  and  the 
Museum  of  Comparative  Zoology,  the  Peabody  Museum 
of  American  Archaeology  and  Ethnology,  and  other 
appropriate  halls  contain  unrivalled  collections.  Me- 
morial Hall  was  finished  in  1874,  at  a  cost  of  $450,000, 
with  a  classic  theatre ;  a  grand  memorial  transept, 
bearing  on  arcaded  marble  tablets  the  names  of  136 
Harvard  men  who  died  in  the  war  for  the  Union  ;  and  a 
great  hall,  generally  utilized  by  700  students  as  a  din- 
ing-room. This  hall  has  an  open  timber  roof,  rich  stained  windows  of  great  size,  and 
scores  of  portraits  and  busts  of  benefactors  of  the  university ;  and  a  lofty  tower,  visible  for 
many  leagues.  The  Observatory,  the  Botanic  Gardens,  the  Hemenway  Gymnasium,  the 
Divinity  Hall,  Austin  Hall  (the  Law  School),  the  Boylston  Chemical  Laboratory,  and  the 
Jefferson  Physical  Laboratory  (founded  mainly  by  Thomas  Jefferson  Coolidge),  are  well- 
known  departments  near  the  quadrangle.  The  famous  Harvard  Medical  School,  the  Dental 
School,  and  the  Veterinary  School  are  in  Boston ;  and  the  Bussey  Institution,  a  school  of 
agriculture,  and  the  Arnold  Arboretum  are  in  West  Roxbury.  The  university  has  2, 700 
students, in  all  its  departments;  and  its  properties  exceed  $10,000,000  in  value. 
The  Harvard  Annex,  founded  in  1879,  for  the  collegiate  education  of 
women,  has  no  legal  connec- 
tion with  the  university,  but  its 
40  professors  are  mainly  those 
pertaining  to  the  college.  It  has 
130  students.  The  graduates 
receive  certificates  that  they 
"have  pursued  a  course  of 
study  equivalent  in  amount  and 
quality  to  that  for  which  the 
degree  of  Bachelor  of  Arts  is 
conferred  in  Harvard  College."  CAMBRIDGE  :  PROTESTANT  EPISCOPAL  THEOLOGICAL  SCHOOL. 


ANDOVER  :     THEOLOGICAL  SEMINARY. 


356 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


MEDFORD  I     TUFTS-COLLEGE    CHAPEL. 


chartered  ii 
ings.      This 


Boston  University  was  founded  in  1869,  and  has  1,100  students  in  its  colleges  of  liberal 
arts,  music,  and  agriculture,  and  schools  of  law,  theology  (Methodist),  medicine  (homoeo- 
pathic) and  all  sciences.  Unlike  most  American  colleges,  Boston  University  has  no  dormi- 
tories, and  its  buildings  are  used  only  for  lectures,  recitations  and  administra- 
tion. Clark  University  was  founded  at  Worcester,  in 
1888,  for  higher  specialized  study  by  college  and 
university  graduates,  and  has  won  a  considerable 
success.  Amherst  College  occupies  a  beautiful  situa- 
tion on  a  hill  south  of  Amherst,  in  the  romantic  hill- 
country  near  the  Connecticut  Valley.  It  was  founded 
in  1821,  and  is  a  Congregationalist  institution.  There 
are  27  instructors  and  360  students,  140  of  whom  are 
from  other  States,  with  an  art  gallery,  a  library  of 
52,000  volumes,  memorial  chapel,  gymnasium,  observatory,  and  rare  museums  of  Indian 
relics,  Nineveh  antiquities,  minerals,  and  tracks  in  stone.  Amherst  has  the  finest  American 
collection  (with  one  exception)  of  casts  from  famous  statuary.  Connected  with  her  profes- 
sorship of  physical  education  (the  first  in  America)  is  a  park  of  26  acres,  with  ball  and 
tennis  grounds  and  walking  tracks. 

Williams  College,  at  Williamstown,  amid  the  noble  mountains  of  Berkshire,  commemo- 
rates Col.  Ephraim  Williams,  of  the  Eighth  Massachusetts,  who  was  killed  in  battle  at  Lake 
George,  in  1755,  after  bequeathing  his  estate  for  a  college,  which  was 
1793.  It  has  20  instructors  and  320  students,  with  interesting  build- 
was  the  birth-place  of  Christian  foreign  missions  in  America.  Tufts 
Medford,  covers  a  far-viewing  hill  with  its  group  of  buildings,  rich- 
and  with  classical,  philosophical,  engineering,  and  divinity  courses.  It 
in  1854,  and  is  Universalist  in  tone.  There  are  18  instructors  and 
150  students.  The  Massa-  -^__ 

chusetts  Institute  of  Tech- 
nology, in  Boston,  incor- 
porated in  1 86 1,  occupies 
several  fine  buildings  on  the 
Back  Bay,  with  museums, 
models,  and  gymnasium.  It 
has  1 20  instructors  and  1,000 
students  (including  26  wo- 
men and  38  foreigners),  and 
teaches  engineering,  architecture,  chemistry,  physics,  natural  history  and  mechanic  arts,  ii 
a  four-years'  course.  Massachusetts  owns  20  free  scholarships,  for  aid  rendered  from  publi( 
funds.  There  is  no  more  famous  scientific  school  in  America,  and  it  draws  its  student 
from  35  States.  The  Massachusetts  Agricultural  College,  at  Amherst,  is  a  State  institution, 
founded  in  1863,  with  150  students  in  scientific  farming,  horticulture,  forestry,  and  similar 
branches.  There  are  80  free  State  scholarships  and  13  free  Congressional  scholarships. 

Wellesley  College,  15  miles  from  Boston, 
on  Lake  Waban,  in  Wellesley,  has  stately 
buildings  in  a  park  of  300  acres.  It  was 
founded  in  1870,  by  Henry  F.  Durant,  and 
opened  in  1875  >.  an(^  ^as  6°  officers  and 
students  (young  women  averaging  20  years] 
from  all  over  the  Union.  The  museums 
and  art-gallery  are  of  great  value ;  and  the 
library  contains  25,000  volumes.  The  prop.- 
WELLESLEY  :  WELLESLEY  COLLEGE.  erty  of  Wellesley  is  worth  $2,ooo,ooo.  Smith 


TON  :     ENGLISH    HIGH    AND    LATIN    SCHOOL. 


THE   STATE   OF   MASSACHUSETTS. 


357 


College  was  founded  in  1871,  by  Miss  Sophia 

Smith,  at  Northampton,  and  has  fine  buildings 

and  500  women  students.    The  1 2-foot  equatorial 

telescope,  the  four-inch  meridian  circle,  and  the 

2 1 -foot  steel  dome  were  designed  and  built  by 

Warner  &  Swasey,  of  Cleveland  (Ohio).   Across 

the  valley,  at  South  Hadley,  is  the  famous  old 

Mount-Holyoke  Seminary  and  College,  founded  WELLESLEY-COLLEGE  :   SCHOOL  OF  ART. 

in  1836,  by  Mary  Lyon,  and  the  school  of  many  noble  women.    It  commands  exquisite  views 

of  the  Northampton  meadows  and  the  gorge  between  Mount  Holyoke  and  Mount  Tom. 

Andover  Theological  Institution,  opened  in  1808,  has  prepared  3,000  men  for  the  Con- 
gregational ministry,  and  has  nine  professors  and  50  students,  37  of  whom  are  from  outside 
of  Massachusetts,  with  several  from  Japan,  Turkey  and  India.  Its  recent  liberal  tendencies 
are  well-known.  On  its  elm-shaded  hill  stand  the  old  dormitories ;  the  stone  Brechin  Hall, 
with  the  library  of  50,000  volumes  ;  the  handsome  modern  chapel  ;  the  house  in  which  Gates 
Ajar  was  written  ;  and  the  site  of  the  old  stone  house  where  Uncle  Tom's  Cabin  was  written. 
Newton  Theological  Institution  is  a  Baptist  institution,  founded  in  1825,  and  nobly  placed 
on  a  high  hill  over  Newton  Centre,  a  pleasant  village  eight  miles  from  Boston,  and  now  for 
many  years  the  home  of  the  Rev.  Dr.  S.  F.  Smith,  author  of  the  National  song,  My  Country, 
*tis  of  Thee.  The  Episcopal  Theological  School  is  near  Harvard  University,  at  Cambridge, 
and  includes  a  beautiful  quadrangle  of  stone  buildings,  with  a  library  and  an  unusually 
attractive  church.  The  school  dates  from  1867,  and  has  five  professors.  The  chief  Catholic 
schools  are  Boston  College,  founded  by  the  Jesuits  in  1863,  and  now  having  1 6  instructors 
and  200  students,  and  the  College  of  the  Holy  Cross,  on  a  pleasant  hill-top  near  Worcester. 
The  diocesan  seminary  for  the  Catholic  clergy  occupies  a  great  stone  building  in  Brighton. 
The  New-Church  (Swedenborgian)  Theological  School  is  at  Cambridge.  The  Divinity 
School  at  Harvard  University  is  Unitarian  in  tendency.  The  law-schools  are  connected 
with  Harvard  (founded  in  1817),  and  Boston  University  (1869).  The  Medical  Schools  of 
Harvard  and  of  Boston  University,  the  Harvard  and  Boston  Dental  Colleges,  the  College 
of  Pharmacy,  and  the  Harvard  School  of  Veterinary  Medicine,  are  at  Boston.  The  Perkins 
Institution  and  Massachusetts  School  for  the  Blind,  at  South  Boston,  was  organized  in  1832, 
by  Dr.  S.  G.  Howe.  It  has  been  studied  as  a  model  for  similar  institutions  here  and  in  Europe. 
There  is  a  large  library  of  raised-letter  books.  The  State  grants  $36,000  a  year  to  the 
school,  which  has  225  students.  The  pupils  earn  money  by  piano-tuning  and  upholstery. 

The  celebrated  evangelist,  Dwight  L.  Moody,  was  a  native  of  Massachusetts  ;  and  at 
and  near  beautiful  old  Northfield,  in  the  Connecticut  Valley,  he  has  founded  a  group  of 
Christian  schools,  with  500  pupils,  from  every  State,  and  Japan  and  Armenia.  Here  also 
is  a  training-school  for  women,  in  Bible-study,  dress-making,  and  house-keeping. 

The  Boston  English-High  and  Latin-School,  the  largest  building  in  the  world  used  as  a 
free  public  school,  was  built  in  1877-80,  at  a  cost  of  $750,000,  and  is  a  fire-proof  structure, 
in  Renaissance  architecture,  with  48  school-rooms,  besides  museums,  libraries,  gymnasiums, 
lecture-halls,  and  the  great  drill-hall,  for  military  evolutions  and  instruction.  The  Girls' 
High  School  is  a  noble  building,  with  800  pupils.  The  B.  M.  C.  Durfee  High  School  is  a 
magnificent  memorial  building  on  the  heights  over  the  city  of  Fall  River.  The  high  schools 
at  Worcester,  Springfield  and  other  cities. have  attractive  buildings  and  collections. 

Among  the  preparatory  schools  are  Phillips  Academy,  at  Andover,  endowed  in  1778,  and 
widely  renowned ;  Dummer  Academy,  in  Newbury,  founded  and  endowed  by  Gov.  Dum- 
mer,  in  1756;  Adams  Academy,  at  Quincy ;  the  Highland  Military  Academy,  near  Worces- 
ter ;  Thayer  Academy,  at  Braintree ;  Dean  Academy,  at  Franklin  ;  Greylock  Institute,  at 
South  Williamstown  ;  St. -Mark's  School,  at  Southborough  ;  the  richly  endowed  Williston 
Seminary,  at  Easthampton  ;  Sanderson  Academy,  at  Ashfield  ;  Lasell  Seminary,  at  Auburn- 
dale  ;  Bradford  Academy,  for  girls ;  and  Abbott  Female  Seminary,  at  Andover. 


358 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 


BOSTON  :  CHAUNCY-HALL  SCHOOL. 


Chauncy-Hall  School,  of  Boston,  one  of  the  best  preparatory  schools  in  the  world,  car- 
ries boys  and  girls  from  the  kindergarten  and  primary  departments  to  the 
threshold  of  college  or  business  life.  It  was  founded  in  1828; 
and  many  of  its  pupils,  like  Parkman,  Ellis,  Tuckerman,  and 
Weiss,  have  become  famous.  Its  distinguishing  char- 
acteristics are  care  for  health  and  attention  to  individ- 
uals. Preparation  for  the  Massachusetts  Institute  of 
Technology  is  a  specialty.  The  military  drill  gives 
the  lads  a  good  setting-up,  and  the  girls  have  calis- 
thenics. The  school-building,  architecturally  attrac- 
tive and  provided  with  all  modern  conveniences  and 
safe-guards,  fronts  on  Copley  Square,  close  to  the 
Art  Museum,  Trinity  Church,  the  new  Old  South 
Church,  and  the  new  Public  Library,  in  the  finest 
residence-quarter  of  the  city.  Chauncy  Hall  usually 
has  about  300  students. 
The  Wesleyan  Academy,  one  of  the  most  notable  of  New-England  institutions,  was 
founded  in  1818  ;  and  seven  years  later  it  moved  to  the  pleasant  old  Massachusetts  village 
of  Wilbraham,  where  it  has  since  remained.  There  are  six  academic  buildings,  on  a  domain 
of  200  acres,  nestling  under  the  hills  eastward  of  the 
fair  Connecticut  Valley.  Within  these  walls  16,000 
students  have  been  taught ;  and  there  are  now  250,  a 
number  of  them  from  foreign  lands,  and  the  others 
from  all  parts  of  the  Union.  The  academy  avails  itself 
of  the  excellent  and  sensible  methods  suggested  by  the 
experience  of  two  thirds  of  a  century,  in  preparing  its 
pupils  for  college,  or  for  business  life.  Among  the 
graduates  of  this  noble  old  school  have  been  Gov. 
Pitkin,  of  Colorado ;  Gov.  Hovey,  of  Indiana ;  ex- 
President  Beach,  of  Wesleyan  University;  President  Andrews,  of  Brown  University,  and 
many  eminent  bishops  and  ministers,  and  other  professional  men.  The  faculty  includes  14 
teachers,  with  George  M.  Steele,  D.D.,  LL.D.,  as  President. 

Among  the  most  celebrated  of  New-England  academies  is  Allen's  West-Newton  Eng- 
lish and  Classical  School,  nine  miles  west  of  Boston.  It  occupies  a  building  of  historic  in- 
terest, wherein,  in  1844,  was  conducted  the  first  normal  school  in  America,  and  the  first  for 
young  women  in  the  world.  Nathaniel  T.  Allen  became  connected  with  it  in  1848,  and  six 
years  later,  after  the  Normal  School  had  been  removed  to  Framingham,  he  opened  here  a 
private  family  and  day  school  for  boys  and  girls.  This  institution  has  prospered  increas- 
ingly from  that  day  to  the  present  time,  when  it  has  a  hundred  students,  and  a  spacious  farm 
and  industrial  annex  in  the  neighboring  town  of  Medfield.  Many  famous  clergymen  and 
lawyers,  professors  and  scientists,  and  a  much  greater  number  of  men  and  women  in  busi- 
ness and  other  careers,  have  passed  their  early  years 
conning  lessons  in  this  venerable  academy,  under  the 
Allen  Brothers,  who  still  conduct  the  school.  It 
been  one  of  their  aims  to  study  the  characters  and  ances- 
tries of  their  pupils,  so  to  repress  bad  heredities  and 
develop  good  ones.  Among  the  thousands  of  young  peo- 
ple who  have  felt  the  uplift  of  this  school  have  been 
many  Spanish-Americans  ;  and  the  roster  usually  shows 
youths  from  a  score  of  States  and  several  foreign  coun-' 
tries,  finding  in  this  pleasant  Massachusetts  village  a 

WEST    NEWTON   I  ,   ,        .  .  .  c          '«  ,  ,  ,          .       ,  ,  .    . 

ALLEN'S  ENGLISH  AND  CLASSICAL  SCHOOL,     noble  institution  for  the  development  of  mind  and  spirit. 


WILBRAHAM   :     WESLEYAN    ACADEMY. 


THE  STATE   OF  MASSACHUSETTS. 


359 


\ 


BOSTON  :    THE    YACHT  "VOLUNTEER,1 
THE  FASTEST  IN  THE  WORLD. 


Amusements  are  becoming  more  and  more  a  feature  of  life  in  the  Puritan  State.  The 
favorite  athletic  sport  is  base-ball,  for  whose  play  nearly  every  village  has  its  club,  while  at  the 
games  played  in  Boston  10,000  people  often  gather.  Cricket  and  lacrosse  are  also  very  well 
known  ;  and  tennis  and  croquet.  Bicycling  finds  here  its  most  enthusiastic  and  successful 
devotees.  Yachting  has  been  a  favorite  amusement  for  generations  among 
f\  this  brave  maritime  people.  The  yachts  built  and  owned  on  the  coast  of  the 
Bay  State  are  the  fastest  in  the  world.  The  America,  which  won  the  famous 
Queen's  Cup,  at  Cowes,  still  sails  in  these  waters ;  and  the  Mayflower, 
Puritan  and  Volunteer,  the  three  great  sloops  which  for  successive  years 
have  easily  outsailed  the  swiftest  British  yachts,  were  planned  by  Ed- 
ward Burgess,  a  local  naval  architect.  In  theatricals,  nearly  every  town 
§\\  has  its  hall,  and  the  cities  their  opera-houses,  visited  by  travel- 

\V  ling  companies  of  dramatists.     The   earliest    Massachusetts 

theatre  opened  in  1794,  in  Boston.    The  Boston  Theatre 
\\  is  one  of  the  largest  in  the  world  and  has  seats  for 

3,100  persons.  It  was  built  in  1854,  and  has  been  the 
scene  of  the  tri- 
umphs of  Rachel, 
Ristori,  Bern- 
hard  t,  Janaus- 
chek,  Parepa- 
Rosa,  P  a  1 1  i , 

Lucca,  Nilsson,  Cary,  Kellogg,  Mary  Anderson,  Char- 
lotte Cushman,  the  Booths,  Barrett,  Fechter,  Forrest, 
Brougham,  Jefferson,  Boucicault,  Wallack,  Salvini, 
Irving,  and  many  other  illustrious  stars.  Here 
also  have  been  won  the  greatest  successes  of 
the  spectacular  plays,  Michael  Strogoff,  The 
Exiles,  Djalma  and  The  Soudan.  The  exterior 
is  simple  and  inconspicuous,  but  the  magnifi- 
cent auditorium,  luxurious  parlors  and  lobbies, 
and  grand  stairway  are  distinguished  for  their 
fitness  and  beauty.  The  immense  stage  has 
every  appliance  which  can  aid  in  giving  splendor, 
effect,  and  realism  to  its  scenes.  Eugene  Tomp- 
kins  is  the  proprietor  and  manager  of  this  great 
theatre,  which  Boucicault  said  was  the  finest  in 
the  world.  Many  new  play-houses  have  been  built,  but  none  to  excel  this  one. 

Of  late  years  the  feature  of  club-life  has  developed  greatly,  and  all  sorts  of  interests  are 
represented,  from  those  served  by  the  Greek-letter  societies  and  literary  clubs,  the  Congrega- 
tional Club,  the  Unitarian  Club,  and  others,  to  the  athletic  and  sportsmen's  and  yacht  clubs. 
The  most  exclusive  organization  of  this  kind  is  the  famous  Somerset  Club,  with  600  mem- 
bers, occupying  a  fine  and  richly  furnished  old  mansion  of  white  granite,  with  double  swell 

front,  richly  draped  with  ivy,  and  facing  on  Boston  Com- 
mon. It  dates  from  1852.  Not  far  distant  is  the  house 
of  the  Union  Club,  frequented  in  past  days  by  Everett, 
Andrew,  Sumner,  Dana,  Gray,  Hoar,  Rice  and  others. 
The  Algonquin  Club  was  organized  in  1885,  and  has  a 
magnificent  house  on  Commonwealth  Avenue,  finished  in 
1888,  at  a  cost  of  $300,000.  This  is  said  to  be  the  finest 
club-house  in  America.  The  Boston  Athletic  Associa- 
tion includes  1, 800  gentlemen  who  are  interested  in 


BOSTON  I    THE  BOSTON  THEATRE. 


BOSTON  :    BOSTON  ATHLETIC  ASSOCIATION. 


36o 


KING'S  HANDBOOK   OF    THE    UNITED 


BOSTON  I 
SOMERSET    CLUB. 


riding,  rowing,  yachting,  tennis,  fencing,  bowling,  and  other  manly  sports. 
They  have  a  magnificent  club-house,  built  in  1888,  at  a  cost  of  $300,003, 
with  all  the  needful  accessories,  Turkish  and  plunge-baths,  tennis- 
courts,  and  provisions  for  other  athletic  exercises. 

Art  has  for  over  a  century  occupied  an  interesting  position  in  Mas- 
sachusetts. The  extensive  affiliations  of  its  people  with  Europe,  and  the 
foreign  travels  of  many  gentlemen  like  Sumner,  Ticknor,  Motley,  Hill- 
ard,  and  Norton,  gave  a  strong  impetus  to  the  study  and  love  of  art 
among  the  educated  people.  Smibert  and  Copley  painted  many  portraits 
in  eastern  Massachusetts,  before  the  Revolution.  Stuart  at  a  later  date 
portrayed  the  wine-tinted  visages  of  the  gentry  ;  and  then  came  Chester 
Harding,  and  the  historical  and  ideal  painter,  Washington  Allston.  In  later  years,  Wm. 
M.  Hunt,  George  Fuller,  George  L.  Brown,  F.  P.  Vinton,  and  others  flourished  and  won 
great  fame.  The  Boston  Athenaeum  opened  its  first  public  exhibition  in  1826.  In  1850  the 
Lowell-Institute  school  of  drawing  began.  The  chief  sculptors  have  been  Rimmer,  Bartlett, 
Milmore,  French,  and  Anne  Whitney ;  although  Greenough,  Ball,  and  Harriet  Hosmer  were 
also  natives  of  the  State,  working  in  Italy.  In  architecture,  the  foremost  of  American 
masters,  H.  H.  Richardson,  was  a  resident,  and  has  left  many  of  his  finest  works  in  Mas- 
sachusetts, where  also  his  disciples  remain  and  labor.  The  Normal  Art  School  is  a  power- 
ful factor  in  aesthetic  culture,  and  occupies  a  noble  Byzantine  building,  in  Boston.  It  was 
established  in  1873,  by  tne  State,  to  prepare  instructors  for  industrial  drawing  in  the  public 
schools,  and  for  oil  and  water-color  paintings  and  modelling  in  clay.  Tuition  is  free  to 

Massachusetts  teachers,  and  non-residents  are  taught  for  $50 
a  term.  The  Boston  Art  Club  was  organized  in  1854,  by  a 
score  of  professional  artists,  and  has  grown  to  a  membership 
of  800  (largely  of  business  men),  having  a  beautiful  Roman- 
esque club-house,  with  large  picture-galleries,  parloi's, 
library  and  other  sumptuous  rooms. 

The  Boston  Museum  of  Pine  Arts  occupies  a  spacious 
range  of  Italian-Gothic  buildings,  on  Copley  Square,  and 
contains  many  hundreds  of  valuable  paintings  by  Regnault, 
Corot,  Couture,  Millet,  Troyon,  Greuze,  Copley,  Allston, 
Stuart,  Constable,  Turner,  Reynolds,  Holbein,  Cranach, 
Van  de  Velde,  and  other  famous  masters.  It  has  also  great 
and  rare  collections  of  statuary,  tapestry,  pottery,  coins,  and 
mediaeval  furniture  and  armor.  The  museum  was  founded 
in  1870,  and  the  present  building  was  occupied  in  1876.  It  is  open  every  day.  Clarence 
Cook  says  that  "it  is  entitled  to  respect  among  the  museums  of  the  world,  as  it  certainly 
stands  first  among  the  museums  of  our  own  country."  The  capital  art-schools  connected 
with  the  museum,  and  others  in  the  vicinity,  draw  students  from  all  parts  of  the  country, 
and  great  benefit  comes  to  them  from  the  study  of  the  statuary  and  paintings. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Boston  Common  are  found  the  chief  studios,  and  some  of  the  art- 
schools  for  which  the  city  is  famous.  Here  also  is  the 
great  picture-gallery  and  print-shop  of  Doll  &  Richards, 
a  firm  which  for  many  decades  has  been  favorably  known 
to  the  art-lovers  and  connoisseurs  of  New  England  and 
New  York.  Here  may  be  seen  every  variety  of  fine  line 
engravings,  etchings  of  great  delicacy  and  force,  carbon 
and  other  photographic  reproductions  of  the  leading 
pictures  of  European  galleries,  and  many  admirable  and 
beautiful  paintings  by  the  foremost  of  American  and 
foreign  artists ;  and  other  objects  of  art,  of  perennial  BOSTON  :  NORMAL  ART  SCHOOL. 


BOSTON  I     ALGONQUIN    CLUB. 


>N:  DOLL  &  RIC 


THE  STATE   OF  MASSACHUSETTS. 

interest  and  value.  The  exhibition-gallery,  capitally  lighted  and  ar- 
ranged, has  been  the  scene  of  many  interesting  displays  of  American 
art,  from  the  cool  and  Corot-like  Merrimac-Valley  pictures  of  John 
Applcton  Brown  to  the  refined  and  delicate  work  of  the  local  genre- 
painters,  so  widely  and  so  greatly  celebrated.  Here  the  choice  works  of 
Charles  H.  Davis,  Edward  E.  Simmons,  Ross  Turner,  Winslow  Homer, 
Dodge  McKnight,  and  other  masters  are  to  be  found,  on  exhibition 
and  for  sale.  The  Doll  &  Richards  store  and  gallery  are  in  the  Warren 
Building,  which  was  erected  expressly  for  the  accommodation  of 
their  business.  It  is  near  the  State  House,  and  fronting  on  the 
famous  Park-Street  Mall,  of  Boston  Common.  Doll  &  Richards  is  to 
Boston  what  Goupil  is  to  New  York,  or  Hazeltine  to  Philadelphia. 

The  development  of  popular  art  of  a  high  order  in  America  owes 
a  great  deal  to  Louis  Prang,  a  native  and  art-student  of  Breslau, 
Prussia,  who  came  here,  in  1850,  as  a  political  refugee.  Six  years 
later,  the  young  German  united  with  a  lithographic  printer  to  make 
pictures  of  bouquets  for  ladies'  magazines,  studying  every  detail  of  the  business  with  earnest 
care.  In  1860  he  bought  out  his  partner,  and  adopted  the  now  famous  title  of  L.  Prang 

&  Co. ;  and  after  the  ensuing  period  of  war-maps 
and  generals'  portraits,  he  went  to  Europe,  and 
looked  over  the  whole  field  of  lithography.  In 
1865  he  brought  out  the  famous  Bricher  landscapes, 
followed  by  Eastman  Johnson's  "Barefoot  Boy," 
and  other  triumphs  of  the  new  chromo-lithographic 
art,  reproducing  to  the  eye  the  beauty  and  character 
of  the  original  paintings.  Mr.  Prang  now  has  a 
large  factory  in  the  Roxbury  suburb  of  Boston,  and 
employs  150  skilled  workmen.  Branch-houses  are 
established  at  New  York  and  San  Francisco,  and 
agencies  all  over  the  world.  The  Prang  holiday 
cards,  the  Prang  valentines,  the  chromo-lithographs,  art-studies  and  other  exquisite  art- 
products  of  this  house  have  become  famous  wherever  civilization  exists. 

The  Low  Art  Tile  Works,  at  Chelsea,  form  the  most  noted  establishment  of  the  kind 
in  America.  John  G.  Low  was  a  pupil  in  the  studios  of  Troyon  and  Couture,  and  afterwards 
a  successful  painter.  Recognizing  the  value  of  plastic  art  in  decoration,  h«  drudged  for  a 
year  in  a  pottery,  to  learn  its  elements ;  and  then  he  and  his  father  set  up  a  kiln,  where, 
after  many  costly  and  vexatious  experiments  in  clays  and  mixtures  and  methods,  full  success 
crowned  the  work.  The  materials,  Pennsylvania  kaolin,  Connecticut  feldspar  and  New- 
Jersey  clay,  are  ground  as  fine  as  flour  and  then  mixed, 
and  moistened  like  damp  sugar,  after  which  they  are 
pressed  into  tiles,  and  dried  for  several  days  in 
the  fire-brick  kilns.  The  glaze  is  then  applied  and 
baked  until  it  fuses  in,  forming  rich  olives  and  yellows, 
delicate  grays  and  browns,  and  strong  and  pure  greens 
and  blacks.  These  exquisite  tiles,  Moorish  or  classic, 
Renaissance  or  Elizabethan,  with  flowers  or  portraits 
in  high  relief,  are  used  extensively  for  friezes  and 
borders,  hearths  and  fire-places,  and  for  artistic  stoves 
and  soda-fountains.  In  1889  tne  business  was  incorporated  as  "The  Low  Art  Tile  Co. 

The  Forbes  Lithograph  Manufacturing  Company  is  an  outcome  of  art  development. 
The  works  at  Chelsea,  a  suburb  of  Boston,  are  the  most  complete  and  extensive  of 
their  kind  in  America,  and  give  employment  to  500  people.  The  main  offices  are  in 


BOSTON     VROXBURYJ   :      L.    PRANG    & 


362 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 


CHELSEA  :     FORBES    LITHOGRAPH    MANUFACTURING    CO. 


^if  Boston,  with  branches  in  New  York,  Phila- 
delphia, Baltimore,  Chicago  and  San  Francisco. 
The  business  was  established  in  1861,  and  in- 
corporated in  1875  ;  and  manufactures  largely 
for  this  country,  Europe  and  South  America. 
Its  product  embraces  all  branches  of  lithog- 
raphy, from  exquisite  engravings  for  banking 
and  commercial  use  to  fine  chromo-work 
many  colors.  Among  them  are  the  well-known  Albertype  reproductions  of  engravings  and 
art-works,  for  illustrating  fine  books.  It  also  manufactures  very  largely  for  mills  and  corpor- 
ations. Fine  theatrical  printing  is  an  important  branch.  The  Forbes  Co.'s  latest  achievement 
in  illustration  is  the  new  process  of  Photo-Color  work,  which  is  a  triumph  of  modern  art. 

The  Public  Libraries  are  particularly  notable.  Foremost  stand  the  great  Boston 
Public  Library,  570,000  volumes;  the  Harvard- University  libraries,  377,000;  and  the  Bos- 
ton Athenaeum,  155,000.  Each  of  the  following  exceeds  50,000  volumes:  Amherst  Col- 
lege, the  State  Library,  and  the  libraries  at  New  Bedford,  Springfield,  Worcester,  and  the 
American  Antiquarian  Society  at  Worcester.  Each  of  these  exceeds  25,000  volumes  :  An- 
dover  Seminary,  Boston  Library,  Boston  Society  of  Natural  History,  Haverhill,  Essex 
Institute  (Salem),  Lynn,  Brookline,  Massachusetts  Historical  Society  (Boston),  Lowell, 
Lawrence,  Peabody  Institute,  Congregational  (Boston),  Taunton,  and  Woburn.  Public 
libraries  are  supported  in  275  cities  and  towns  of  Massachusetts,  and  contain  2, 500,000  books, 
besides  which  there  are  2, 200  religious  and  other  libraries, 
with  3,600,000  books.  A  legislative  commission  is  em- 
powered to  help  establish  free  libraries  in  the  towns  not 
yet  possessing  them.  Some  of  the  handsomest  stone 
buildings  in  the  country  are  those  erected  in  Massachu- 
setts, by  private  munificence,  for  public  libraries.  Among 
these  are  the  architectural  gem  at  Woburn,  the  Crane 
Library  at  Quincy,  the  building  erected  at  Maiden  by  the 
generosity  of  the  Hon.  E.  S.  Converse,  that  given  to 
Cambridge  by  Frederick  H.  Rindge,  and  the  libraries  at  Concord,  Lincoln,  Newton  and 
other  localities.  The  quaintly  beautiful  Memorial  Library  and  Grand- Army  Hall  at  Man- 
chester-by-the-Sea  was  presented  to  the  town,  in  1887,  by  Thomas  Jefferson  Coolidge.  It 
is  French  in  architectural  feeling,  adorned  with  Mexican  onyx,  Numidian  marble,  Tiffany 
stained  glass,  and  an  ancient  carved  screen  from  Morlaix. 

The  Boston  Public  Library,  projected  in  1841  and  incorporated  in  1852,  is  the  largest 
in  the  world  for  free  circulation,  and  includes  the  magnificent  special  collections  of  George 

Ticknor,  Theodore  Parker,  Nathaniel  Bowditch, 
Edward  Everett  and  others.  There  are  eight  branch 
libraries  in  the  city.  The  municipality  grants 
about  $120,000  a  year  to  the  library;  and  is  now 
erecting  for  it  a  magnificent  and  spacious  new  stone 
building,  in  the  similitude  of  a  Roman  palace,  at 
a  cost  of  over  $2,000,000.  The  library  issues 
1,000,000  books  a  year  for  home  use,  and  700,000 
periodicals  in  the  reading-room.  It  is  one  of  the 
most  popular  and  useful  institutions  of  the  modern 
Athens. 

The  Nevins  Memorial  Library  at  Methuen  was  founded  in  memory  of  the  late  David 
Nevins,  a  prominent  merchant  and  manufacturer,  who  passed  the  greater  part  of  his  life  at 
Methuen,  where  he  died  in  1881.  It  had  been  his  intention  to  found  a  library  during  his  life- 
time ;  and  this  unfulfilled  purpose  was  carried  out  by  his  widow  and  sons,  and  the  Nevins 


QUINCY  I     CRANE    LIBRARY. 


BOSTON  :     BOSTON    PUBLIC    LIBRARY. 


METHUEN  I      NEVINS    MEMORIAL    LIBRARY. 


THE   STATE   OF  MASSACHUSETTS.  363 

Memorial  Library  arose,  on  the  site  chosen  and 
purchased  for  that  use,  years  before.  The  build- 
ing was  planned,  and  its  construction  supervised, 
by  the  well-known  architect,  Samuel  J.  F. 
Thayer,  of  Boston,  and  the  complete  structure 
was  opened  to  the  public  in  1884.  It  contains 
an  ample  and  beautiful  public  hall,  a  library  of 
10,000  volumes,  reading-room,  waiting-room, 
and  librarian's  and  trustees'  apartments.  The 
building  is  a  handsome  Romanesque  edifice,  with 
some  very  interesting  architectural  features.  It 
is  the  purpose  of  the  founders  to  endow  the  in- 
stitution with  enough  money  to  make  it  entirely 
self-supporting.  In  its  noble  public  libraries,  Massachusetts  leads  all  the  States. 

The  New-England  Conservatory  of  Music  in  Boston  is  the  largest  school  of  music  and 
associated  arts  in  the  world,  having  So  instructors,  and  2,200  students.  The  late  Dr.  Eben 
Tourjee  introduced  the  Conservatory  system  (since  so  widely  copied)  to  America,  in  1853, 
and  established  this  school  in  1867.  It  was  incorporated  and  placed  under  the  control  of  a 
board  of  50  trustees  in  1870;  and  in  1882  the  immense  and  handsome  St. -James-Hotel 
building,  on  Franklin  Square,  was  purchased 
for  its  use.  Its  spacious  halls  include  the 
offices,  instruction-rooms,  reception-rooms, 
brary,  museum,  and  concert-room,  and 
home  accommodations  for  400  lady- 
pupils.  The  Conservatory  embraces  five  J 
departments  :  I,  music,  embracing 
all  branches  of  technical  and  theo* 
retical  study ;  2,  piano  and  organ 
tuning ;  3,  general  literature  and 
languages  ;  4,  elocution  and  physical 
culture,  and  the  College  of  Oratory  ; 
5,  Fine  Arts.  The  musical  instruction  of  the  College  o£  Music  of  Boston  University  is  also 
given  here.  Pupils  come  hither  from  all  parts  of  the  United  States,  and  from  many  other 
countries,  and  enjoy  not  only  the  best  possible  facilities  for  study,  but  a  large  list  of  free 
collateral  advantages,  and  all  the  safeguards  and  comforts  of  a  Christian  home.  The  faculty 
includes  many  of  the  most  learned  and  prominent  artists  and  teachers  in  this  country,  and 
neither  money  nor  effort  is  spared  to  make  the  institution  worthy  in  the  highest  degree  of 
public  confidence  and  patronage.  The  trustees  and  officers  include  a  number  of  the  best- 
known  and  most  influential  and  respected  business  men  and  clergymen  of  Boston.  The 
fact  that  the  Conservatory  has  achieved  its  eminent  success  without  any  endowment  or  other 

aid,  makes  it  unique  among  educational  institutions. 
Relieved  of  indebtedness,  and  in  the  possession  of  the 
endowment  of  which  its  success  and  great  usefulness  have 
made  it  worthy,  the  Conservatory  will  prove  a  yet  greater 
honor  to  Boston  and  a  blessing  to  the  world. 

Memorials. —  The  uncounted  myriads  who  have 
passed  from  the  old  Bay  State  into  the  unknown  land 
beyond  the  grave  are  honored  by  many  a  beautiful  ceme- 
tery, unsurpassed  in  the  world.  Among  these  are 
Mount  Auburn,  at  Cambridge,  the  last  resting-place  of 

,~u:^  Longfellow,    Agassiz     and    Sumner,    and    many   other 

BOSTON  :  BOSTON  ART  CLUB.  illustrious  men ;    Forest   Hills  and  Mount    Hope,  also 


BOSTON  :    NEW-ENGLAND    CONSERVATORY    OF    MUSIC. 


364 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE   UNITED   STATES. 


WILLIAMSTOWN  :     MONUMENT 

WHERE    THE    FOREIGN-MISSION 

MOVEMENT    STARTED. 


near  Boston ;  Woodlawn,  at  Chelsea ;  the  Newton  Cemetery  ; 
Harmony  Grove,  at  Salem ;  Pine  Grove,  at  Lynn ;  Oak  Hill,  at 
Newburyport ;  Oak  Grove,  at  Springfield  ;  and  many  others.  In 
the  Sleepy-Hollow  burying-ground,  at  Concord,  are  the  graves 
of  Hawthorne,  Emerson  and  Thoreau.  Each  village  has  its  God's 
Acre,  oftentimes  with  quaint  monuments  two  centuries  old.  And 
on  the  3<Dth  of  May  of  every  year  the  old  soldiers  of  the  Grand 
Army,  and  grateful  friends  and  kinsmen,  heap  high  with  flowers 
the  graves  of  the  men  who  died  in  battle. 

As  becomes  a  community  at  once  wealthy  and  public-spirited, 
ancient  and  highly  educated,  Massachusetts  has  many  fine  monu- 
ments and  memorials  within  her  borders.  Besides  the  grand 
works  of  art  at  Plymouth  and  Duxbury,  and  the  costly  soldiers' 
monuments  in  nearly  every  town,  and  the  Washington  statues, 
there  is  the  statue  of  Gov.  John  A.  Andrew,  at  Hingham ;  of  Josiah  Bartlett,  a  signer  of  the 
Declaration  of  Independence,  at  Amesbury ;  of  the  Minute-Man,  at  Concord  ;  and  of  Sum- 
ner  and  Everett,  Garrison  and  Hamilton,  and  other  celebrities,  at  Boston.  Interesting 
antiquities  abound  in  various  towns,  like  the  Old  Corner  Bookstore,  in  Boston,  for  years 
the  favorite  resort  of  Longfellow  and  Lowell,  Holmes  and  Emerson,  and  often  visited  by 
Dickens  and  Thackeray ;  the  old  Wayside  Inn,  in  Sudbury,  the  scene  of  Longfellow's  famous 
poem:  the  Cradock  mansion,  at  Medford,  built  in  1634;  the  Old  Manse,  at  Concord;  the 
Pilgrim  houses,  at  Plymouth;  the  Hingham  church  (1681);  the  First  Church,  in  Salem, 
built  in  1634;  the  birthplaces  and  tombs  of  the  Presidents 
Adams,  in  Quincy  ;  the  old  Witch  house,  and  Hawthorne's 
birthplace,  in  Salem  ;  the  birthplace  of  Garrison  and  the  grave 
of  Whitefield,  at  Newburyport.  The  preservation  of  many 
similar  objects  is  not  left  to  haphazard,  but  will  inhere  in  a 
body  of  trustees  chosen  from  persons  interested  in  historic 
relics  and  scenic  beauty,  and  qualified  to  act  as  guardians  for 
the  people,  of  such  properties  and  domains. 

Maritime  Commerce  was  one  of  the  main  developing 
features  of  Massachusetts,  and  began  with  the  very  foundation 
of  the  colony,  whose  vessels  used  to  cruise  to  Virginia,  Fayal, 
and  other  distant  ports.  After  the  Revolution,  the  great  Salem 
trade  with  the  East  Indies  came  into  existence,  and  was  carried 
forward  by  many  sagacious  merchants  and  daring  navigators.  Sumatra  and  the  Philippines, 
Madagascar  and  Zanzibar,  Calcutta  and  the  Chinese  ports,  alike  welcomed  and  enriched 
the  Essex  mariners.  The  exportations  of  granite  and  ice  afforded  occupation  for  many 
vessels ;  and  large  fleets  of  whaling  ships  sailed  from  the  home  ports  of  New 
Bedford  and  Nantucket.  The  clippers  built  at  Medford,  Newburyport,  and 
East  Boston  were  the  fastest  ships  afloat,  and  fitted  up  in  the  most  elaborate 
manner.  One  of  them  made  the  run  from  San  Francisco  to  Boston,  around 
the  Horn,  in  75  days ;  another  went  from  San  Francisco  to  Cork  in  93  days. 
There  were  no  better  ships  in  the  world  than  those  built  in  and  sailing  from 
Massachusetts  ports  between  1840  and  1860,  and  they  won  no 
small  share  of  the  world's  freighting.  Two  causes  combined  to 
practically  annihilate  this  business,  the  extension  of  steam 
navigation,  and  the  ravages  of  Confederate  privateers.  And  to 
these  may  be  added  the  suspension  of  ship-building,  caused  by 
eccentric  legislation  at  Washington.  Less  than  one  fifth  of 
the  exports  and  imports  of  Massachusetts  is  carried  in  Ameri- 
HOLYOKE  :  CITY  HALL.  can  bottoms.  But  there  are  many  vessels  in  the  coasting  trade ; 


NORTH    EASTON  I     TOWN    HALL. 


THE  STATE   OF  MASSACHUSETTS.  365 

and  Massachusetts  has  a  tonnage  of  526,200,  coming  next  after  New 
York  and  Maine. 

The  Fisheries  employ  more  than  half  the  fishing-vessels  and 
tonnage  in  the  United  States,  the  daring  mariners  of  Gloucester,  Prov- 
incetown,  and  other  ports  following  the  deep-sea  fisheries  around 
Newfoundland  and  Labrador,  the  Bay  of  Chaleur  and  George's  Bank, 
and  returning  with  abundant  fares  of  cod,  halibut  and  mackerel.  There 
are  also  lucrative  shore-fisheries,  including  hake  and  haddock,  pollock 
and  blue-fish,  and  the  valuable  shell-fish  of  the  harbors.  The  Massa- 
chusetts fisheries  employ  1,000  sail  and  20,000  men,  and  support 
100,000  persons.  Much  of  the  old-time  maritime  spirit  still  lingers 
along  the  Massachusetts  coast,  waiting  for  the  renascence  of  American  commerce.  The 
shipping  trade  of  Boston  is  second  only  to  that  of  New  York,  its  annual  imports  passing 
$60,000,000,  with  nearly  an  equal  amount  of  exports.  In  a  single  year  230,000  tons  of 
American  vessels  enter,  and  over  1,000,000  tons  of  foreign  ships;  and  nearly  9,000  coast- 
wise vessels  arrive  in  the  various  sea-ports  of  the  old  Bay  State. 

Population. —  Three  fourths  of  the  people  are  American-born  ;  one  eighth,  Irish-born  ; 
and  one  ninth  born  in  Canada  or  Great  Britain.  There  are  25,000  Germans,  10,000  Swedes, 
5,000  Italians,  3,000  Frenchmen  (and  70,000  French  Canadians),  and  5,000  Azoreans 


WORCESTER  :     Y.   M.  C.  A. 


I  2,  000 

South- 


FALL    RIVER  \    B.    M.    C.    DURFEE    HIGH    SCHOOL. 


(Portuguese).  The  colored  people  include  400  Indians,  500  Chinamen, 
negroes  and  6,000  mulattoes.  There  are  also  groups  of  Mexicans  and 
Americans,  Japanese  and  Sandwich  -  Islanders, 
Turks  and  Greeks.  Boston  has  among  its  in- 
habitants, American-born,  260,000;  Irish,  70,000; 
Canadian,  35,000;  German,  10,000 ;  and  Italian, 
3,000.  Of  the  people,  1,200,000  were  born  in 
Massachusetts,  80,000  in  Maine,  60,000  in  New 
Hampshire,  35,000  in  Vermont,  25,000  in  Rhode 
Island,  25,000  in  Connecticut,  45,000  in  New 
York,  4,000  in  New  Jersey,  and  6,000  in  Penn- 
sylvania. On  the  other  hand,  the  State  has  given 
40,000  to  New  York,  about  20,000  each  to  Rhode  Island,  New  Hampshire,  Connecticut, 
and  Illinois;  10,000  each  to  California,  Maine,  Iowa,  Michigan,  Ohio,  Pennsylvania,  Ver- 
mont, and  Wisconsin  ;  and  about  5,000  each  to  New  Jersey,  Missouri,  Minnesota,  Kansas, 
and  Colorado. 

The  making  of  boots  and  shoes  occupies  62,000  persons;  cotton  goods,  58,000  ;  build- 
ing, 50,000;  metal- working,  30,000;  clothing,  33,000;  and  machinery,  16,000.  Over  two 
fifths  of  the  population  are  engaged  in  remunerative  industries, 
including  two  thirds  of  the  men  and  one  fifth  of  the  women. 
One  fourth  of  this  great  army  of  workers  is  in  the  textile  in- 
dustries. There  are  425,000  families  in  the  State,  with  an 
average  of  4^  persons  to  each.  Every  fifth  person  is  a  voter. 
The  density  of  population,  or  number  of  inhabitants  to  the 
square  mile,  exceeds  that  of  any  other  State  except  Rhode  Is- 
land. It  is  greater  than  that  of  Austria,  France,  Germany,  or 
Spain  ;  almost  identical  with  that  of  Italy  and  Japan  ;  and  only 
exceeded  by  Belgium,  Great  Britain,  the  Netherlands,  and 
India.  The  discrepancy  of  men  to  women  is  accounted  for  by 
the  deaths  of  many  thousand  soldiers ;  the  disasters  yearly  de- 
vastating the  fishing-fleets  ;  and  the  continuous  drain  of  emigra- 
tion to  the  far  West,  where  men  naturally  take  the  initiative. 
BOSTON  :  UNITARIAN  BUILDING.  The  gain  of  population  between  1865  and  1875  was  3^4jS8i, 


366  KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

while  between  1875  anc^  ^85  it  was  290,229,  a  decrease  of  relative  gain  attributable  to  the 
necessary  slackening  of  growth  as  a  State  becomes  more  fully  populated,  and  also  to  the  extra 
immigration  caused  by  the  new  speculative  enterprises  in  the  1865-75  period,  and  to  the 


emigration 
There  are 
or  one  to 
2  5 ,  i  2  8  of 
English- 
1 630  and 


BOSTON  :     PARK-STREET    CHURCH. 


drawn  by  the  development  of  the  South  and  West  in  the  1875-85  period. 
3 10,248  occupied  dwelling-houses  (and  14, 580  unoccupied)  in  the  State, 
each  6^-  persons  or  i^  families.     Of  these  houses  297,958  are  of  wood  ; 
brick  ;  and  648  of  stone.    Th e  original  stock  of  the  population  was  20,  < 
men  and  Englishwomen,  who  settled  in  Massachusetts  mainly  betweei 
1640.     After  the  Civil  War  and  the  rise  of  the  Commonwealth,  it 
became  possible  for  men  loving  liberty  in  religious  and  politi- 
cal affairs  to  dwell  happily  in  England,  and  the  tide  of  emi- 
gration ceased  flowing  to  New  England.     Then  for  a  century 
and  a  half  the  isolated  English  colonists  were  left  to  their 
own  devices,  and  increased  rapidly,  preserving  the  purity  of 
their  race,  and  intensifying  the  ideas  of  civil  and  religious 
liberty  which  had  been  brought  over  the  lonely  Western  seas, 
and  handed  down  as  precious  heirlooms  for  future  genera- 
tions.    During  the  present  century  successive  waves  of  immi- 
gration have  poured  into  Massachusetts,  the  first  being  the 
great  Irish  inflowing,   chiefly  of  the  laboring  classes,  hard- 


Canadians 
the  manu- 


pa  per  s, 
nities  ol 


working  and  versatile,  and  good  Catholics,  withal.    Next  came  the  French- 
from  the  St.  -Lawrence  Valley,  thousands  of  whom  have  settled  in  each  of 
faqturing  cities,  with  their  societies,  Catholic  churches,  and  French  news- 
The  coast-cities,  Provincetown,  New  Bedford,  and  Boston,  contain  commu- 
Azore-Islanders,  skilful  in  the  fisheries.      Recently  a  notable  number  of  Ar- 
menians and  Moors  have  been  added  to  the  population.     Amid  this  con- 
junction of  nationalities,  there  is  very  little  fusion,  and  the  descendants 
of  the  Puritans  retain  their  intense  Englishry ;  the  Irishmen  parade  the 
streets  on  St.  Patrick's  day,  jocund  with  green  decorations ;  the 
Italians   have  their  own   banks  and  restaurants ;    the    Germans, 
their    Liedertafel,   Turnerbund  and  Zeitung ;  the   French,   their 
Trois  Freres  and  Abb<*s ;  the  Russians  their  synagogues  and  sacred 
days.     There  is  but  little  mixing,  yet  general  good  temper  and 
fraternity  prevails  between  all  classes  and  races,  in  spite   of  the 
pernicious  and  pestilent  vaporings  of  a  few  religious 
and  political  fanatics. 

Religion  was  the  cause  of  the  founding  of  Massa- 
chusetts, and  has  always  been  an  important  factor  in  its  life.     The  Plymouth 
colonists  pertained  to  the   Congregational  church,  established  in  England 
in  1583,  by  Robert  Brown  ;  and  the  Salem  and  Boston  evangelical  Church- 
men   became    also    Congregationalists    almost   as    soon  as   they   reached 
America.     This  sect  now  has  in    Massachusetts   540  societies,  with   700 
ministers,    100,000  church-members,  and  115,000  Sun- 
day-School pupils.    The  New  Old  South  Church,  in  Bos- 
ton, is  a  magnificent  North-Italian-Gothic  edifice,  with 
a  stone  campanile  248  feet  high,  and  rich  carvings,  stone 
mosaics,  Venetian  mosaics,   stained  windows,   and  rare 
marbles.     It  was  built  in  1874-5,  at  a  cost  of  $500,000. 
The  society  dates  from    1669.     The   Unitarian   church 
came    out  from    Congregationalism  between   1805    and 
1815,-  after>  half  a  century  of   Arminian  controversies, 
BOSTON  :  NEW  OLD  SOUTH  CHURCH.  taking  with  it  the  venerable  First  and  Second   Churches 


BOSTON  : 
OLD  SOUTH  MEETING  HOUSE. 


THE  STATE   OF  MASSACHUSETTS.  367 

i 

of  Boston,  and  many  other  ancient  societies.  The  flower  of  Massachusetts  culture  entered 
the  new  liberal  movement,  including  Channing,  Parker,  Freeman  Clarke,  Palfrey,  Everett, 
Emerson,  Peabody,  Pierpont,  Starr  King,  Lowell,  Longfellow,  and  Holmes.  The  head- 


ton,  of  heavy  brown- 
The  first  local  Baptist 
secution.  The  sect 


quarters  of  the  sect  is  the  noble  Unitarian  Building,  in  Bos- 
stone,  and  resembling  the  fortress-like  palaces  of  Tuscany, 
church  was  organized  in  1662,  and  suffered  grievous  per- 
has  now  over  300  churches,  60,000  com- 
municants, and  65,000  Sunday  -  School 
pupils.  Its  finest  church  is  on  Common- 
wealth Avenue,  Boston,  with  a  noble  cam- 
panile enriched  by  sculptures  by  Bartholdy. 
The  Methodist  movement  here  began  in 
1791,  when  Jesse  Lee  founded  the  first 
church,  at  Lynn ;  and  now  numbers  500 
churches,  with  60,000  members.  The 
Episcopalians  gathered  at  King's  Chapel, 
Boston,  in  1688.  Though  sadly  depleted 
by  the  Revolutionary  War,  the  Church 
has  of  late  years  grown  rapidly,  and  has  no  parishes  and  68  missions,  180  clergymen, 
26,000  communicants,  and  18,000  Sunday-School  pupils.  The  Bishops  of  Massachusetts 
have  been  Edward  Bass,  1797-1803;  Samuel  Parker,  1804;  A.  V.  Gris- 
wold,  1811-43;  Manton  Eastburn,  1843-72;  B.  H.  Paddock,  1873-91; 
and  Phillips  Brooks.  Trinity  Church,  in  Boston,  has  a  vast  French 
Romanesque  edifice,  the  finest  Protestant  church  in  America,  with  a  cen- 
tral tower  211  feet  high,  picturesque  cloisters,  and  an  interior  enriched  by 
masterly  frescoes  and  storied  windows.  St.  Michael's,  at  Marblehead, 
was  built  before  the  Revolution.  St.  Paul's,  at  Newburyport, 
*j  ^  received  its  communion  service  from  Queen  Anne  of  England. 
Grace,  at  Newton ;  St.  Paul,  at  Stockbridge ;  Christ,  at 
Springfield;  and  St.  Stephen,  at  Lynn;  are  handsome  stone 
churches.  St.  John  the  Evangelist  (Cowley  Fathers)  and  the 
Church  of  the  Advent,  in  Boston,  are  ritualistic.  Christ 
Church,  in  Boston,  dates  from  1723,  and  has  a  chime  of  an- 
cient bells  in  its  tower,  where  the  lanterns  were  hung  out,  in 
1775,  which  signalled  Paul  Revere  to  alarm  the  minute-men. 

The  first  Catholic  church  in  the  State  was  organized  in 
1790,  and  the  Episcopal  See  of  Boston  dates  from  1808,  when  it  embraced  all  New 
England.  In  1875  the  Archdiocese  of  Boston  was  founded, 
to  include  Essex,  Middlesex,  Suffolk,  Norfolk,  and  Plymouth 
counties.  Massachusetts  has  150  Catholic  churches,  471  priests, 
63  parochial  schools,  and  44  convents.  The  Cathedral  of  the 
Holy  Cross,  in  Boston,  in  Early  English  Gothic  architecture, 
364  feet  long,  is  one  of  the  largest  in  the  world,  with  rich  win- 
dows and  altars,  and  a  vaulted  oaken  roof  95  feet  high,  on 
lines  of  clustered  bronze  columns.  The  Catholic  churches  are 
generally  very  large  and  very  plain,  and  used  by  several  con- 
gregations at  different  hours. 

Universalism  was  established  here  in  1773,  by  John  Murray, 
of  England,  who  became  pastor  of  the  society  at  Gloucester. 
Its  headquarters  and  publishing-house  are  in  Bqstofi ;  and 
the  chief  society  is  that  of  Dr.  A.  A.  Miner,  which  .was 
founded  by  the  famous  Hosea  Ballou,  its  pastor  from  1817  to 


BOSTON  :      FIRST    BAPTIST    CHURCH. 


CATHEDRAL    OF   THE    HOLY    CROSS. 


CAMBRIDGE  I     HASTINGS    HALL,    HARVARD    COLLEGE. 


368  XING'1  S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 

1852.     Massachusetts  has  a  few  societies  of  the  New  Church,  and  of  Disciples,  Presbyter- 
ians, Friends  and  other  sects.     The  ancient  Armenian  Church  is  also  represented. 

The  Hebrews  are  a  well-to-do  and  influ- 
ential people,  and  have  eight  synagogues  and 
20,000  people  in  Boston  alone,  with  Chew- 
ras,  Schwestern,  and  lodges  of  B'nai  B'rith 
and  Kesher  Shel  Barsel,  and  various  Israel- 
itish  institutions.  The  most  interesting  of 
these  is  the  Marcus  Orthodox  Synagogue, 
the  only  place  of  worship  in  Boston  where 
religious  services  are  held  thrice  every  day 
in  the  year ;  and  probably  also  the  only 
one  in  which  contributions  are  never  taken. 
The  building  was  formerly  a  Baptist  church, 
and  about  the  year  1 880  was  bought  by  Alfred  A.  and  Kate  Marcus,  and  their  daughter  and 
son,  who  have  since  maintained  the  ancient  ceremonials  of  the  Jewish  church  here,  at  their  own 
expense.  The  interior  is  fitted  up  with  an  Oriental  richness  which  contrasts  strangely  with  the 
simplicity  of  the  exterior.  The  holy  ark  is  of  mahogany,  and 
two  carved  lions  support  the  Ten  Commandments.  The 
interior  of  the  ark  contains  ten  rows  of  the  holy  scrolls  of 
the  Law,  a  hundred  years  old.  One  was  sent  by  the  late  Sir 
Moses  Montefiore,  and  others  came  from  Jerusalem  and 
other  parts  of  the  world.  They  are  ornamented  with 
satin  cord,  breast-plates  and  bells  of  silver  and  gold. 

The  First  Spiritual  Temple,  on  the  Back  Bay, 
Boston,  is  the  richest  and  costliest  building 
used  by  Spiritualists  in  the  world.  It  is  a 
great  Romanesque  structure,  of  delicately 
carved  stone,  and  cost  $250,000.  There 
are  thousands  of  Spiritualists  in  Boston, 
Lynn,  and  other  cities. 

Shaker   communities  are  found  in  the 
rural  counties,  but  are  declining  in  numbers. 

Humane  sentiments  are  carefully  inculcated  by  several  active  societies,  with  vigilant 
officials,  publications,  Bands  of  Mercy,  and  other  energetic  agencies.  One  of  the  eccentric 
phases  of  this  kindly  work  is  the  Ellen  M.  Gifford  Sheltering  Home  for  Animals,  a  large 
estate  at  Brighton,  where  several  hundred  homeless  and  maimed  dogs  and  cats  are  taken  in 
yearly,  to  be  furnished  with  homes  or  mercifully  killed. 

The  Boston  Young  Men's  Christian  Union,  instituted  in 
1851,  numbers  5,000  members,  and  has  an  admirable  build 
ing  in  the  central  part  of  the  city,  near  the  Common.  I 
rooms  are  a  home  for  young  men,  with  amusements,  library, 
museum,  gymnasium,  lectures  and  concerts,  music  and  the- 
atricals, and  courses  of  study.  The  building  is  one  of  the 
most  perfect  of  its  kind  ever  erected.  The  Young  Women's 
Christian  Association  of  Boston  has  a  large  and  handsome 
building,  with  hall,  library,  gymnasium,  restaurant,  and 
dormitories  ;  and  furnishes  for  girls  temporary  shelter  and 
permanent  board,  industrial  teaching,  and  an  employment 
bureau,  and  amusements.  It  is  a  philanthropy,  but  not  a 
charity.  The  Young  Men's  Christian  Association  of  Boston 
HOOSAC  MOUNTAIN  :  HoosAc  TUNNEL.  nas  a  n°ble  Scotch-baronial  building ;  and  the  Associations 


BOSTON  : 

MARCUS    ORTHODOX 
SYNAGOGUE, 


THE  STATE   OF  MASSACHUSETTS.  369 

of  the  minor  cities  and  towns  are  full  of  zeal  and  activity.     Similar  interests  are  served  by 
numerous  Young  Men's  Catholic  Associations  and  Young  Men's  Hebrew  Associations. 

In  Railroads  Massachusetts  has  more  miles  in  proportion  to  her  area  than  any  other 
State,  the  lines  crossing  the  country  in  every  direction.  Her  tracks  cost  above  $70,000  a 
mile.  This  was  one  of  the  first  American  communities  to  build  railwavs.  The  old 


Indian  trails 
traversed  by 
Providence, 
from  Boston 
20  locks  and 


STON   :    PROVIDENCE    STATION. 
PROVIDENCE    LINE    TO    NEW  YORK. 


developed  into  bridle-paths,  and  these  into  the  turnpikes,  which  were 
the  great  six-horse  stages  from  Boston  to  Newburyport,  Worcester, 
and  Hartford.  In  1804  came  the  opening  of  the  Middlesex  Canal, 
to  Lowell,  27  miles  long,  30  feet  wide  and  four  feet  deep,  with 
seven  aqueducts,  and  built  at  a  cost  of  $575,000.  The  Blackstone 
Canal,  40  miles  long,  was  opened  from  Worcester  to  Provi- 
dence, in  1825.  Two  years  later,  the  Granite  Railway  ran 
a  three-mile  line  from  the  Quincy  quarries  to  tide-water,  the 
first  railway  in  America.  It  was  operated  by  horse-power, 
the  first  business  being  the  transportation  of  stone  for  Bunker- 
Hill  Monument.  The  State  authorities  surveyed  the  Boston 
&  Lowell  route  in  1829,  and  its  building  began  in  1830.  By 
1835  Massachusetts  had  100  miles  of  railroad  in  operation. 
Although  the  toll  per  mile  on  passenger-travel  is  larger  in 
other  sections,  her  railroads  pay  larger  dividends  than  those 
of  the  Middle,  Southern  or  Western  States. 
Some  of  the  finest  buildings  are  the  railway  stations,  such  as  those  at  Worcester  and 
Springfield,  and  the  rural  stations  at  North  Easton,  West  Medford,  and  other  points.  The 
Boston  terminal  station  of  the  Lowell  System  of  the  Boston  &  Maine  Railroad,  built  in  1871, 
is  one  of  the  largest  in  America.  The  terminal  station  of  the 
Providence  Division  of  the  Old-Colony  Railroad  is  one  of  the 
most  commodious  and  beautiful  in  the  world.  It  cost  above 
$800,000.  The  architecture  is  Gothic,  with  a  great  central 
hall  of  noble  proportions  and  decoration,  and  a  clock-tower 
of  unusual  grace.  This  is  the  Boston  terminal  of  the  well- 
known  Providence  and  Stonington  lines,  to  New  York.  The 
chief  feat  in  railroad  construction  in  Massachusetts  is  'the 
Hoosac  Tunnel,  cut  through  the  Hoosac  Mountain  for  4f  BOSTON  :  KING'S  CHAPEL. 

miles,  at  a  cost  of  $16,000,000,  to  shorten  the  route  from  Boston  to  the  West.  This  stu- 
pendous work  of  engineering  took  20  years  for  its  construction,  and  was  opened  in  1874. 
The  cost  was  borne  by  the  State. 

The  street  railways  are  46  in  number,  with  620  miles  of  track,  and  an  aggregate  capital 
stock  of  $12,300,000,  and  gross  debts  of  $8,500,000.  They  carry  above  150,000,000 
passengers  yearly. 

The  great  railway  routes  are  the  Old-Colony,  covering  the  south-eastern  counties  and 
Cape  Cod  with  its  lines ;  the  New- York  and  New-England  :  the  Boston  &  Albany,  for  New 
York  and  the  West ;  the  Fitchburg,  or  Hoosac-Tunnel  Route ;  and  the  Boston  &  Maine,  a 

consolidation  of  all  the  lines  in  the  northeast,  cover- 
ing the  routes  to  New  Hampshire,  Maine  and 
Canada.  The  New  York  &  New-England  Railroad 
is  a  first-class  road  in  every  respect,  and  passes 
through  some  of  the  largest  cities  and  towns  in 
Massachusetts,  Rhode  Island,  Connecticut  and  New 
York,  Boston,  Providence,  Worcester,  Springfield, 
Hartford,  New  Britain,  Waterbury,  Danbury,  Nor- 
wich, New  London,  Putnam,  Willimantic,  Manches- 
NEW-YORK  &  NEW-ENG!AND  RAILROAD  STATION.  ter,  Rockville,  Fishkill-on-Hudson,  Newburgh  and 


370 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


New  York.  It  runs  through  trains,  with  parlor-cars,  sleeping- 
cars,  coaches  and  dining-cars,  which  are  unsurpassed  in  ele- 
gance. This  is  the  shortest  line  between  Boston  and  New 
York,  being  only  213  miles  by  the  Air  Line  Route;  and 
trains  make  the  run  in  six  hours.  Through  Pullman  sleep- 
ing-cars are  carried  on  trains  between  Boston,  Philadelphia, 
Baltimore  and  Washington,  passing  by  the  steamer  Mary- 
land around  New- York  City,  and  thence  by  the  Pennsylvania 
Railroad.  This  line  runs  the  old  and  reliable  Norwich 
Line,  between  Boston  and  New  York,  by  a  steamboat  ex- 
press-train between  Boston  and  New  London,  and  the  ele- 
gant steamers  City  of  Worcester,  City  of  Boston  and  City  of 
New  York,  between  New  London  and  New  York.  These 
steamers  are  perfectly  appointed  for  speed,  comfort  and  safety.  BOSTON:  NEW-ENGLAND  MUTUAL  LIFE- 
Frequent  trains  are  run  between  Boston  and  Providence.  The  INSURANCE  COMPANY. 

main  line  extends  228  miles,  from  Boston  to  Newburgh,  on  the  Hudson  River,  there  con- 


necting with 
The  ancient 
have  long  since 
connect  Massa- 
save  the  long 


the  Erie  Road,  and  making  a  through  line  to  all  points  West, 
canals  between  Lowell  and  Boston  (Middlesex),  and  elsewhere 
been  abandoned  and  closed.  The  Cape-Cod  Canal  is  designed  to 
chusetts  Bay  and  Buzzards  Bay,  by  the  way  of  Herring  River,  to 
and  perilous  rounding  of  Cape  Cod.  It  was  begun  in  1880,  and 
advances  but  slowly. 

Steamships  and  packets  connect  Boston  with  all  points  on 
e  eastern  sea-board,  and  with  New  York,  Philadelphia,  Norfolk, 
Baltimore,  Savannah,  and  Liverpool.  The  well-known 
Boston  &  Bangor  Steamship  line  runs  its  fine  vessels  from 
this  port  to  Portland,  Rockland,  Bangor,  Bar  Harbor, 
Mount  Desert,  and  other  points  on  the  coast  of  Maine. 

Life-insurance  in  America  began  in  Boston,  with 
Prof.  Wigglesworth's  tables  of  American  life,  and  the 
annuity  plans  of  the  Massachusetts  General  Hospital. 
The  Massachusetts  Hospital  Life-insurance  Company 
dates  from  1818,  but  now  deals  only  with  trusts  and  an- 
MUTUAL  LIFE-INSURANCE  co.  OF  N.  Y.  nuitics.  The  second  company  in  the  State  was  the  New- 
England  Mutual  Life-Insurance  Company;  chartered  in  1835,  and  now  one  of  the  leading 
corporations  of  the  Republic.  The  New-England  policies  are  plain  and  simple,  with 
liberal  terms  of  residence,  travel  and  occupation,  so  that  the  in- 
surer remains  unhampered.  In  1874  the  company  erected  a  fire- 
proof granite  building  on  Post-Office  Square,  Boston.  The  New- 
England  Mutual  is  not  only  the  oldest,  but  it  is  also  one  of  the 
strongest  corporations  of  the  kind  in  the  United  States.  Its 
assets  are  in  the  vicinity  of  $22,000,000,  and  the  yearly  income 
reaches  $3,500,000.  The  president,  Benjamin  F.  Stevens,  has 
been  connected  with  the  company  for  45  years,  being  the  longest 
term  of  service  of  any  American  life-insurance  officer.  The 
vice-president  has  been  with  the  company  for  42  years.  No  in- 
surance company  in  the  world  has  a  better  record  for  able  man- 
agement and  equitable  "settlement  of  claims. 

The  thrifty  Massachusetts  people  take  much  interest  in  life-in- 
surance. Two  of  the  most  magnificent  buildings  in  Boston  are  the 
vast  fire-proof  stone  palaces  of  the  Equitable  Assurance  Society 
and  the  Mutual  Life-Insurance  Company  (both  of  New  York). 


BOSTON  :  EQUITABLE  LIFE  ASSUR- 
ANCE SOCIETY  OF  N.  Y. 


THE  STATE   OF  MASSACHUSETTS. 


371 


BOSTON  : 
THE  BOSTON    HERALD. 


The  Newspapers  and  Periodicals  of  Massachusetts  number 
more  than  600.  Their  precursors  were  Publick  Occurrences,  of  which  a 
single  number  appeared  in  1690,  and  The  Boston  News-Letter,  founded 
in  1 704,  and  published  for  72  years,  or  until  the  British  evacuated  the 
town.  The  Massachusetts  Spy,  started  in  1770,  was  carried  to  Worcester 
when  Boston  became,  a  British  garrison,  and  is  still  published  there. 
Massachusetts  has  55  daily  newspapers,  of  which  eight  are  in  Boston. 

Among  the  few  great  newspapers  in  the  country  one  of  the  Boston 
papers  takes  prominent  place.  Any  history  of  journalistic  enterprises  in 
the  United  States  would  be  incomplete  unless  it  included  the  history  of 
The  Boston  Herald.  Depending,  as  the  Herald  always  has,  on  its  excel - 
lence  as  a  newspaper  for  its  standing,  its  great  circulation  has  been  ob- 
tained  by  the  slow  growth  of  years,  and  to-day  it  has  a  constituency  that 
the  combined  efforts  of  all  the  other  papers  in  New  England  cannot  shake. 
The  Herald  occupies  one  of  the  most  prominent  buildings  in  the  city, 
equipped  with  every  device  for  facilitating  its  tremendous  business. 
Mechanically  it  is  the  best-furnished  of  any  newspaper  in  Boston,  possess- 
ing two  huge  quadruple  Hoe  presses,  a  double  Hoe  press  and  a  single 
Hoe  press,  able  to  flood  the  streets  of  Boston  with  Heralds  at  ten  minutes' 
notice.  In  addition  to  its  superb 
Washington-street  office,  the  Herald 
maintains  in  another  part  of  the  city  another  office,  fur- 
nished with  Bullock  perfecting  presses,  stereotype  ma- 
chinery and  a  full  outfit  of  type.  This  office  is  ready 
for  use  at  a  moment's  notice,  it  being  simply  a  question 
of  moving  the  men  from  the  present  office  to  the  sub- 
office.  So  far  as  is  known,  the  Herald  is  the  only  news- 
paper in  the  country  that  maintains  an  establishment  of 
this  sort  in  idleness,  awaiting  an  emergency  that  might 
require  its  use.  In  politics  the  Herald  is  independent, 
commenting  with  unprejudiced  fairness  on  the  actions 
of  both  political  parties,  commending  the  good  in  each  Bos 

and  condemning  the  wrong.  This  attitude  of  itself  gives  the  paper  a  tremendous  influence, 
as  its  readers  feel  that  its  editorial  comments  on  public  questions  are  entirely  unprejudiced. 
In  matters  of  newspaper  enterprise  it  is  a  proverb  in  Boston  that  the  Herald  always  leads. 
Boston  has  the  honor  of  publishing  the  paper  which  has  a  larger  circulation  than  any 
other  weekly  paper  in  the  world.  This  journal,  The  Youth 's  Companion,  has  long  since 
become  a  favorite  in  nearly  half  a  million  families  to  which  it  makes  its  weekly  visits.  The 
Companion  was  founded  in  1827,  by  Nathaniel  Willis,  who  continued  to  be  its  publisher  until 
1859,  when  it  passed  into  the  hands  of  Perry  Mason  &  Company,  its  present  publishers.  It 
had  from  the  very  beginning  a  high  aim,  and  though  winning  its  way  slowly  at  first,  it  has 
grown  to  enormous  proportions,  and  now  is  received  in  nearly  every  city,  town  and  hamlet 
in  the  United  States.  It  is  interesting  to  know  that 
over  30  tons  of  paper  are  needed  to  print  each  issue. 
This  national  success  has  not  been  secured  through 
the  success  of  any  one  year,  but  through  the  strict 
adherence  to  the  policy  originally  laid  down  by  its 
publisher,  to  give  the  subscribers  all  that  could  be 
afforded.  The  paper's  success  has  been  such  that 
it  is  enabled  to  secure  the  literary  services  of  the 
most  famous  writers  in  the  world.  Each  volume 
contains  700  pages,  and  over  500  illustrations.  The  BOSTON  -,  YOUTH'S  COMPANION  BUILDING. 


372  KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 

staff  of  editors  numbers  24 ;  and  a  large  number  of  artists  and  engravers  are  continually  at 
work  upon  the  illustrations ;  while  more  than  200  people  are  required  to  print,  fold,  mail, 
and  attend  to  other  details.  The  new  home  of  the  Companion,  in  process  of  erection,  on 
Columbus  Avenue,  besides  being  fully  equipped  for  the  put 
lishing  business,  is  one  of  the  grandest  buildings  in  Boston. 
One  of  the  most  interesting  and  remarkable  successes  he 
been  that  of  the  Phelps  Publishing  Company,  of  Springfield. 
The  foundation  of  this  business  was  the  paper  called  Tht 
New-England  Homestead,  established  in  1867  by  Henry  M. 
Burt,  and  bought  in  1878  by  Edward  H.  Phelps.  This  has 
advanced  from  a  circulation  of  1,500  to  above  32,000.  Th 
Springfield  Homestead,  a  news  and  society  paper,  was  foundec 
in  1878,  and  has  reached  a  circulation  of  7,000.  But  the  great 
publication  of  the  Phelps  Company  is  Farm  and  Home, 
fortnightly  paper,  founded  in  1880,  and  now  issuing  250,  < 
copies  of  each  number,  circulating  in  every  State  and  Terri- 
tory>  In  the  ten  years  between  1880  and  1890,  the  three  pul 
lications  of  this  company  rose  from  an  aggregate  circulatioi 

of  9,500  to  289,000.  The  offices  are  in  a  commodious  building  owned  by  the  company,  anc 
fully  equipped  with  modern  printing  and  binding  and  mailing  outfits.  The  Phelps  publica- 
tions have  great  constituencies  all  over  America,  for  although  originally  planned  mainly  for 
New-England  subscribers,  their  unusual  excellence  has  won  for  them  a  continental  fanu 
and  favor.  In  a  corresponding  degree,  to  meet  the  demands  of  this  broader  field,  the  ph 
and  scope  of  Farm  and  Home  have  been  enlarged  and  enriched  on  all  sides. 

Chief  Cities. —  Boston,  the  capital  of  Massachusetts  and  the  metropolis  of  New  Eng- 
land, is  picturesquely  placed  on  an  island-strewn  harbor  at  the  head  of  Massachusetts  Bay. 
It  stands  in  the  midst  of  suburbs  of  unusual  beauty,  in  a  pleasant  undulating  country  dotte 
with  woodlands   and   limpid   lakelets,  and   lighted   by  the  shining  curves  of  the  Charles 
Neponset  and  Mystic  Rivers.      The  city  has  a  costly  Post-Office,  a  gray  old  classic  Custor 
House,  the  new  Court  House  of  Suffolk  County,  the  golden-donied  State  House,  the  ne^ 
Exchange  and  Chamber  of  Commerce  buildings,  and  many  other  noble  and   interesting 
structures.     The  hilly  North  End,  the  site  of  the  ancient  Boston,  is  now  densely  populatec 
by  the  poor,  including  thousands  of  Italians,   Azore-Islanders  and  Russians ;    the  Soutl 
End,  nearly  all  reclaimed  from  the  harbor,  is  given  up  to  residence-streets ;  and  the  Bad 
Bay,  also  on  ground  made  by  filling  in  the  harbor,  is  the  fashionable  locality,  with  the  great 
churches,  museums  and  educational  institutions.      Outside  the  densely  populated  region, 
belt  of  parks  and  parkways  surrounds  the  city,  on  its  landward  sides.     Boston  has  a  large 
commerce  and  many  manufactures,  and  other  attributes  of  a  first-class  American  city ;  but 
her  chief  distinctions  are  in  her  literary  culture  and  historic  interest.     Nearly  all  the  great     j 
literary  men  of  America  have  dwelt  in  or  near  the  Puritan  City.      Longfellow  and  Lowell,     ' 
Whittier  and  Emerson,  Hawthorne  and  Holmes,  Thoreau  and  Parkman,  Motley  and  Pres- 
cott,  all  of  them  natives  of  Massachusetts,  dwelt  in  or  near  Boston.      Howells  has  written     ; 
his  best  works  here,  and  Aldrich  his  brightest  poems.     The  golden  age  of  American  litera- 
ture found  its  consummate  flowering  at  Boston  between  1850  and  1880.     The  famous  pub- 
lishing house  conducted  by  Wm.  D.  Ticknor  and  James  T.  Fields  brought  out  the  great 
works  of  Longfellow  and  Whittier,  Lowell  and  Holmes^  and  the  other  leaders  in  modern     • 
letters.     These  inimitable  lines  of  books  are  now  published  here  by  Houghton,  Mifflin  & 
Co.,  the  publishers  also  of  the  Atlantic  Monthly  ;  and  Ticknor  &  Co.  (headed  by  Benjamin 
H.  Ticknor,  a  son  of  the  founder  of  Ticknor  &  Fields)  own  The  American  Architect,  the 
most  authoritative,  influential  and  beautiful  architectural  journal  in  the  world.     At  Cam- 
bridge are  the  Riverside  Press  and  the  University  Press,  for  many  years  famous  for  their 
vast  production  of  fine  books. 


THE  STATE   OF  MASSACHUSETTS. 


373 


Among  the  historic  buildings  now  cherished  with 
pious  care  by  the  Bostonians  are  the  Old  State  House, 
Faneuil  Hall,  King's  Chapel,  the  Old  South  Church, 
and  Christ  Church.  The  Massachusetts  Historical 
Society  is  the  oldest  in  the  Union,  having  been 
founded  in  1791.  The  New-England  Historic  Genea- 
30U  logical  Society  also  has  a  commodious  building  in  Bos- 
ton, with  a  large  library.  The  first  Masonic  lodge  in  America  was  founded  here  in  1733. 
Boston  Common,  with  its  lawns  and  ancient  trees,  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  city,  is  crossed 
by  many  well-trodden  paths,  and  partly  occupied  by  a  parade-ground,  the  scene  of  frequent 
military  ceremonials.  From  the  contiguous  Public  Garden  the  magnificent  Commonwealth 
Avenue  stretches  away  toward  the  Brookline  hills.  The  historic  and  literary  interest  abid- 
ing here,  the  number  and  fame  of  its  colleges,  and  the  accessibility  of  its  great  libraries  and 
art-collections  have  made  Boston  (and  Cambridge)  one  of  the  chief  educational  centres  of 
the  world,  and  one  of  the  most  charming  places  of  residence. 

Cambridge,  separated  from  Boston  by  the  Charles  River,  enjoys  a  world-wide  fame  as  the 
seat  of  Harvard  University.  It  has  been  much  adorned  by  the  noble  buildings  of  the  City 
Hall,  Manual  Training  School,  and  Library,  lately  presented  to  it  by  Frederick  H.  Rindge. 
Other  important  suburbs  are  Woburn  (13,499  inhabitants),  abounding  in  tanneries  ;  Chelsea 


pottery ;  Wai- 
watches  ;  Som- 
with  many  hills ; 


WOBURN  :    PUBLIC    LIBRARY. 


(27,909),  close  to  Boston  and  the  sea,  and  famous  for  its  tiles  and 
tham  (18,707),  on  the  Charles,  known  the  world  over  for  its 
erville  and  Maiden  (23,031),  suburban  and  manufacturing  cities, 
Quincy  (16,723),  with  its  granite-quarries,  and 
the   homes  and  graves  of  the   Adams   family; 
Newton  (24,379),  w^tn  tne  homes  of  Boston  busi- 
ness men,  in  a  lovely  region  of  hills  and  forests, 
ponds  and  streams  ;  and  Brookline  (i'2, 103),  one 
of  the  most  beautiful  suburbs  in  the  world.    These 
ancient  and  historic  environs  have  a  great  diver- 
sity of  scenery,   the  sea-veined  salt-marshes  to- 
ward Lynn,  the  meadows  of  the  Charles  and  Neponset,  and  the  rocky-cliffs  of  Nahant. 

The  cities  of  the  Essex  coast  are  Lynn,  with  12,000  persons  engaged  in  shoe-manufac- 
turing; Peabody  (10,158),  which  has  dozens  of  leather  factories;  Gloucester  (24,651  in- 
habitants), the  foremost  cod  and  mackerel  fishing-port  in  the  world,  on  a  noble  harbor  near 
the  rocky  tip  of  Cape  Ann,  which  abounds  in  granite-quarries;  Salem  (30,801),  the  mother- 
city  of  Massachusetts,  and  the  birth-place  of  Hawthorne,  famous  for  its  libraries  and 
museums,  and  legend-haunted  streets;  and  Newburyport  (13,947),  an  ancient  sea-city  on 
high  ground  near  the  mouth  of  the  Merrimac  River,  with  great  shipyards  (now  silent), 
the  beautiful  High  Street,  and  many  quaint  old  colonial  mansions.  Near  by  is  the  first 
chain-bridge  built  in  America;  the  late  Ben  :  Perley  Poore's  estate  of  Indian  Hill,  "the 
Abbotsford  of  New  England "  ;  Dummer  Academy,  founded  by  Lieut.  -Gov.  Dummer  in 
1756;  the  17th-century  Garrison  House,  near  Oldtown  Green;  and  the  weird  sand-dunes  of 

Plum  Island,  fronting  the  sea  for  three  leagues.  Marble- 
head  is  a  quaint  old  maritime  town,  close  to  the  open  sea, 
and  latterly  a  famous  resort  for  the  yachting  squadrons. 

Lowell,  the  Spindle  City,  uses  the  great  water-power 
of  Pawtucket  Falls,  on  the  Merrimac  River,  and  runs  a 
million  spindles  in  its  enormous  cotton-mills,  making 
145,000  miles  of  cotton-cloth  yearly,  besides  having  many 
other  factories,  employing  27,000  operatives  in  all. 

Lawrence,  farther  down  the  Merrimac,  has  many  great 
FITCHBURG  :  WALLACE  LIBRARY.  cotton  and  woolen  mills,  and  is  one  of  the  handsomest 


374 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE   UNITED   STATES. 


of  manufacturing  cities.  Haverhill,  Whittier's  birth- 
place, is  at  the  head  of  tide  on  the  Merrimac,  and  has 
27,412  inhabitants,  and  7,000 persons  in  its  shoe-factories. 
Taunton,  on  Taunton  River,  manufactures  tacks,  cotton 
goods,  machinery  and  Reed  &  Barton's  silverware. 

Fall  River,  near  Narragansett  Bay,  in  the  southeast, 
has  $40,000,000  worth  of  immense  cotton-factories, 
drawn  up  like  platoons  in  a  marching  regiment,  along 
the  stream  falling  from  the  Watuppa  Ponds.  The  city 
hall  is  a  handsome  building,  of  which  Wm.  R.  Walker 
was  the  architect.  New  Bedford,  on  Buzzards  Bay,  the 
GIFFORD  HOME  leading  port  of  the  world  in  the  whale-fisheries,  has  cot- 
ton mills  and  many  diversified  manufacturing  industries. 
Worcester,  nestling  among  the  hills  along  the  Blackstone  River,  is  the  second  city  in 
Massachusetts,  with  many  manufactures  and  converging  railroads,  and  unusual  beauty  of 
streets  and  public  buildings.  It  was  founded  in  1669.  Fitchburg  (22,037  inhabitants), 
thrives  on  manufactures,  along  the  Nashua  River.  Springfield  is  a  pleasant  city,  founded 
in  1636,  on  the  Connecticut  River,  and  with  admirable  public  buildings  and  churches,  and 
the  great  United-States  Armory.  Chicopee  (14,050)  manufactures  cotton  goods,  bronzes 
and  artillery.  Holyoke,  with  the  great  water-power  of  Hadley  Falls,  on  the  Connecticut 
River,  is  the  foremost  paper-making  city  in  the  world,  and  has  other  profitable  industries. 


BRIGHTON  :     THE    ELLEN 

FOR   CATS   AND    DOGS. 


the  most  beau- 
Connecticut 


THE    MALDEN    LIBRARY. 


Northampton  (14,990)  was  founded  in  1653,  in  one  of 
tiful  situations  imaginable,  on  the  meadows  near  the 
River,  near  Mt.  Tom  and  Mt.  Holyoke,  and  the  his- 
toric hamlets  of  Hadley,  Hatfield  and  Deerfield,  buried 
in  immemorial  elms.  Pittsfield  (17,281  inhabitants) 
is  1,000  feet  above  the  sea,  surrounded  by  the  beauti- 
ful hills  and  lakes  of  Berkshire,  and  with  a  marble 
court-house  and  an  environment  of  pleasant  villas. 
North  Adams  (16,074),  near  the  Hoosac  Tunnel,  in 
northern  Berkshire,  has  cotton  and  woolen  mills. 

Massachusetts  has  28  cities  and  nine  towns,  each  with  above  10,000  inhabitants,  and 
other  towns,  each  of  above  4,000  inhabitants.      The  remaining  248  towns  are  smaller,  am 
95  of  them  have  fewer  than  1,000  inhabitants  each. 

The  Hotel  Vendome  of  Boston  is  a  magnificent  marble  structure,  amid  the  finest  public 
buildings  and  churches  and  the  most  aristocratic  dwellings  of  the  Puritan  City.  It  is  ii 
the  centre  of  the  Back-Bay.  District ;  and  unexcelled  in  architectural  picturesqueness,  inte- 
rior beauty,  and  scientific  adaptation  for  comfort  and  convenience.  Many  well-known  am 
wealthy  families  dwell  here  permanently  ;  and  it  is  noted  for  the  high  order  of  its  transient 
patronage.  Among  the  *  guests  have  been  Presidents  Cleveland  and  Harrison, 

and    other    hardly    less  jl  distinguished   personages.      The  Vendome  has  365 

feet  of  frontage,  and  an        ^jf^^     interior  made  comfortable  by  all  the  improvements 

of  modern  times,  and  stricth 
fire-proof.  This  immense  edi- 
fice is  one  of  the  largest  and 
most  costly  of  the  new  hotels 
of  America,  and  contains  more 
than  400  rooms.  Frescoes, 
cathedral  glass,  carved  mahog- 
any, rich  tiling,  and  other  ad- 
juncts give  a  dainty  aesthetic  air 
BOSTON  ;  HOTEL  VENDOME,  ON  COMMONWEALTH  AVENUE.  to  the  house  ;  and  the  health  of 


THE  STATE   OF  MASSACHUSETTS. 


375 


BOSTON  :     FIRST    SPIRITUAL   TEMPLE. 


its  occupants  is  ensured  by  the  most  modern  appli- 
ances for  heating,  lighting  and  ventilating.  The 
location  is  unsurpassed  by  any  hotel  in  the  country, 
for  the  beauty  of  its  surroundings.  The  Vendome 
fronts  on  Commonwealth  Avenue,  the  patrician 
thoroughfare  of  New  England,  240  feet  wide,  and 
running  from  the  Public  Garden  to  the  new  Park. 
The  proprietors  are  C.  H.  Greenleaf,  Amos  Barnes, 
and  J.  W.  Dunklee.  Col.  Greenleaf  is  also  the  pro- 
prietor of  the  famous  Profile  House,  in  the  White 
Mountains ;  and  is  as  well-known  to  the  best  class  of 
travellers  as  any  hotel-man  in  the  country. 

The  Hotel  Brunswick  of  Boston  occupies  an 
admirable  position  on  the  Back  Bay,  and  its  im- 
mediate vicinity  is  the  most  remarkable  locality  of  its  size  in  the  whole  of  the  United 
States.  Here  in  a  small  triangle  can  be  seen  at  a  glance  those  noble  churches,  the  Trinity 
Episcopal  and  the  Old  South  Congregational,  and  close  by,  the  First  Baptist,  with  the  richly 
carved  frieze  on  its  tall  tower,  the  Spiritual  Temple,  the  South  Congregational,  the  Central 
Congregational  and  the  First  Unitarian,  all  together  a  group  hardly  to  be  matched  anywhere. 
But  besides  religion,  here  are  located  the  very  highest  types  of  art,  science,  education,  literature 
and  whatever  else  goes  to  make  up 
the  perfection  of  these  times,  as  typ- 
ified in  the  Boston  Public  Library, 
the  Museum  of  Fine  Arts,  the 
Institute  of  Technology,  the  So- 
ciety of  Natural  History,  the  Har- 
vard Medical  School,  the  Boston 
Athletic  Club,  the  Young  Men's 
Christian  Association,  and  other 
notable  institutions.  These  are  the 
immediate  surroundings  of  one  of 
the  best  hotels  in  the  world,  an  im- 
mense seven-story  brick-and-sandstone  building,  richly  and  comfortably  furnished,  and 
equipped  with  all  the  modern  luxuries  and  conveniences.  It  was  built  in  1874-6,  at  a  cost 
of  over  $1,000,000.  Among  its  guests  have  been  Presidents  Grant,  Hayes  and  Arthur, 
the  Dukes  of  Argyll  and  Sutherland,  and  countless  other  per- 
sons of  eminence  in  various  fields.  The  proprietors,  Amos 
Barnes  and  John  W.  Dunklee,  long  ago  earned  their  rank  as 
the  peers  of  the  best  of  hosts. 

Massachusetts  enjoys  the  distinction  of  having  one  of  the 
most  notable  building  firms  in  the  world,  with  a  wide-spread 
contracting  business,  usually  upon  structures  commanding 
national  attention.  Norcross  Bros.,  of  Worcester,  enjoy  this 
preeminence,  and  their  unrivalled  structures  (many  of  them 
designed  by  the  illustrious  architect,  H.  H.  Richardson)  adorn 
many  cities.  They  generally  use  Longmeadow  brownstone, 

$£  iii\ /Sk\/^\  ^     or  Worcester  pink  granite,  and  control  large  quarries  of  those 

1     valuable   materials.     James   A.    and    Orlando  W.    Norcross, 
young   carpenters   frOm    Salem,  began   business   together   at 
Swampscott,  in  1864,  and  in   1867  moved  to  Worcester,  ever 
since  their  headquarters.     Among  their  great  works  in  con- 
BOSTON  :  THE  AMES  BUILDING.         struction  have  been  Trinity  Church  and  the   First   Spiritual 


BOSTON  :     HOTEL    BRUNSWICK,  TRINITY-CHURCH    CORNER. 


BOSTON  : 
MASSACHUSETTS  CHARITABLE  MECHANIC  ASSOCIATION. 


376  KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

Temple,  the  High  School  and  the  Algonquin  Club-house,  the 
Ames,  Whittier,  Andrew  and  Converse  dwellings,  and  the 
Ames  and  Fisk  buildings,  in  Boston ;  the  Har- 
vard Law  School,  Gymnasium  and  Sever  Hall, 
in  Cambridge  ;  the  libraries  at  North  Easton, 
Woburn,  Maiden,  Quincy  and  New  Orleans ; 
the  Union  League  Club-house,  at  New  York ; 
the  Albany  City  Hall,  Pittsburgh  Court  House, 
Cincinnati  Chamber  of  Commerce,  Marshall 
Field  wholesale  building  (at  Chicago),  and  many 
vast  and  imposing  edifices  at  St.  Louis  and 
Omaha  and  other  distant  cities,  besides  a  num- 
ber of  beautiful  railway  stations  and  other  structures  for  the  use  of  the  people. 

Finances  and  Banking. — The  State  debt  is  about  $28,000,000,  with  cash  and  funds 
on  hand  amounting  to  $34,000,000,  showing  net  cash  assets  of  nearly  $6,000,000.  The 
debt  is  at  five  per  cent,  interest;  and  is  held  to  be  as  good  as  gold,  on  the  European 
exchanges.  The  net  debts  of  the  counties  amount  to  $3,700,000 ;  those  of  the  municipal- 
ities, to  $57,500,000.  Taxation  is  steadily  decreasing,  and  amounts  to  about  $14.75  on 
$  1,000.  The  National  banks  number  260,  with  a  capital 
of  $97,000,000,  $167,000,000  in  deposits,  $29,000,000  in 
bonds,  $16,000,000  in  circulation,  and  $30,000,000  in  bank 
surplus.  There  are  also  18  trust-companies,  with  $8,000,000 
in  capital,  and  $85,000,000  in  assets.  The  first  bank  in 
America  was  established  in  Boston,  in  1686,  and  the  secon 
one  arose  in  the  same  city  in  1714.  The  clearing-house  busi- 
ness of  Boston  amounts  to  $5,000,000,000  a  year,  and  is  ex- 
ceeded only  by  that  of  New  York. 

The  Merchants'  National  Bank,  of  Boston,  began  in  1831 
as  the  Merchants'  Bank,  with  a  capital  of  $500,000,  increased 
later  to  $4,000,000.      It  has  never  omitted  to  pay  semi-annual 
BOSTON  :  dividends,  averaging  more  than  six  per   cent,  a   year.      Fo 

nearly  50  years  the  presidency  was  held  with  signal  ability  by 
Franklin  Haven,  and  from  him  it  passed  to  his  son,  Franklin  Haven,  Jr. ,  for  some  yea 
Assistant  Treasurer  of  the  United  States.     The  bank  stands  on  State  Street,  on  the  site  o 
the  Provincial  Custom  House  and  the  old  Bank  of  the  United  States,  and  close  to  the  seen 
of  the  Boston  Massacre  of  1770.     It  occupies  one  of  the  most  valuable  pieces  of  land  i 
the  city,  and  the  building  is  a  well-known  landmark.     In  1864  it  be- 
came a  National  bank,  with  a  capital  of  $3,000,000,  then  and  ever 
since  the  largest  capital  of  any  New-England  bank.     It  also  has  a 
phenomenal  surplus,  amounting  to  $1,500,000.    It  has  always  been 
a  depository  of  public  moneys,  and  its  deposits  are  large,  and  its 
depositors  numerous.      It  has  at  all  times  liberally  afforded  to  the 
community  all  the  facilities  in  its  power,  for  advancing  industrial 
pursuits  and  internal  trade  and  commerce. 

Kidder,  Peabody  &  Company  stand  at  the  head  of  the  private 
banking-houses  of  New  England,  and  have  an  immense  business  in 
investment  securities,  besides  buying  and  selling  foreign  exchange, 
and  issuing  mercantile  and  travellers'  letters  of  credit  available  in 
all  parts  of  the  world.  About  the  year  1863  this  house  came  into 
existence,  as  successor  of  John  E.  Thayer  &  Brother.  They  repre- 
sent the  great  London  house  of  Baring  Brothers  in  this  country, 
and  include  a  Baring  among  their  partners.  The  banking-house  KIDDER,  PEABODY  &  co. 


MERCHANTS'  NATIONAL  BANK. 


NORTH  EASTON:    AMES  FREE  LIBRARY. 


THE  STATE   OF  MASSACHUSETTS. 

of  Kidder,  Peabody  &  Co.,  with  entrance  at  113  Devon- 
shire Street,  immediately  opposite  the  Post-Office,  can- 
not be  seen  from  the  street ;  but  is  the  largest  and  best 
appointed  banking-house  in  the  city  of  Boston. 

Massachusetts  has  1 80  savings-banks,  with  assets  of 
$ 400, 000,000;  108  co-operative  banks,  with  $12,000,- 
ooo  ;  and  two  mortgage-loan  companies.  The  savings- 
banks  have  i , ooo,  ooo  accounts.  Of  their  assets,  $  1 44,  - 
000,000  is  in  loans  on  real  estate,  $43,000,000  in  the 
public  funds,  $28,  ooo, ooo  in  bank  stock,  and  $34,000,- 
ooo  in  railroad  bonds.  The  State  exercises  a  careful 
supervision  over  the  savings-banks,  and  restricts  their  investments  by  sagacious  laws.  The 
deposits  exceed  those  of  every  other  State,  except  New  York,  and  are  larger  than  those  of 
Great  Britain.  The  Provident  Institution  for  Savings,  in  the  Town  of  Boston,  the  first 
savings-bank  in  America,  dates  from  1816. 

Insurance,  now  so  vast  an  element  in  American  life,  began  in  Boston  in  1728,  when  the  Sun 
Fire  Office  was  opened,  as  "an  assurance  office  for  houses  and  household  goods  from  loss 
and  damage  by  fire  in  any  part  of  the  Province."  The  fire-insurance  written  during  a  year 
here  exceeds  $800,000,000  ;  and  the  marine  insurance  is  about  $250,000,000.  Careful  investi- 
gation into  the  causes  of  fires,  commanded  by  the  General 
Court  in  1888,  has  caused  a  marked  decrease  in  incendiarism. 
Some  of  the  most  important  of  the  insurance  companies 
are  those  having  their  headquarters  in  the  smaller  cities  of 
New  England.  The  Springfield  Fire  &  Marine  Insurance 
Company,  of  Springfield,  incorporated  in  1849,  an(^  °Pened 
in  1851,  is  one  of  the  strongest  and  most  enterprising  of  these 
institutions,  and  has  numerous  agencies  throughout  the 
Union.  The  capital  is  $1,500,000,  and  the  assets  are  over 
$3»5OOJOOO>  making  a  surplus  as  regards  policy-holders  of 
over  $2,000,000,  and  a  surplus  above  all  liabilities  of  '$675,000.  The  losses  which  have 
befallen  the  insurers  in  this  company  have  been  met  with  ready  money,  as  when  $525,000 
were  paid  after  the  Chicago  fire,  and  $250,000  after  the  Boston  fire.  The  officers  are 
among  the  leading  men  in  Western  Massachusetts,  and  their  best  talents  are  devoted  to  the 
work.  The  Springfield  is  by  far  the  largest  fire-insurance  company  in  Massachusetts,  hav- 
ing the  greatest  capital,  and  the  greatest  surplus,  and  doing  many  times  the  largest  business. 
The  immense  development  of  the  fire-insurance  business,  and  the  momentous  interests  in- 
volved, have  given  rise  to  a  number  of  active  and  versatile  insurance  agents,  preeminent 
among  whom  is  John  C.  Paige,  of  Boston.  He  was  a  skillful 
and  experienced  underwriter,  when  he  founded  a  business  in  Bos- 
ton, in  1874,  which  has  grown  ever  since,  until  now  it  is  the 
largest  of  the  kind  in  the  United  States.  He  has  the  American 
management  of  the  City  of  London  and  Imperial  Fire  of  Lon- 
don, and  also  represents  the  Fire  Association  of  Philadelphia, 
the  Niagara  of  New  York,  the  Orient  of  Hartford  (Conn.),  the 
Michigan  of  Detroit,  and  Mechanics  of  Philadelphia :  and  also 
does  a  very  large  insurance  brokerage  business,  caring  for  the 
entire  insurance  of  many  of  the  foremost  firms  and  corporations 
in  New  England.  Mr.  Paige  has  a  large  and  commodious  build- 
ing at  20  Kilby  Street,  opposite  the  Stock  Exchange,  in  the  finan- 
cial quarter  of  Boston.  This  he  occupies  entire,  in  all  its 
six  floors  ;  and  nearly  a  hundred  clerks  are  employed  in  this 
building.  BOSTON  ;  JOHN  c.  PAIGE. 


SPRINGFIELD  :     SPRINGFIELD    FIRE   AND 
MARINE    INSURANCE    COMPANY. 


378  KING^S    HANDBOOK  OF  THE   UNITED   STATES. 

Manufactures  are  the  chief  source  of  the  wealth  of  Massachusetts.     They  are  of  the 
most  varied  character,  employing  investments  of  $500,000,000,  with  24,000  firms  and  cor- 
porations, and  420,000  operatives.     They  use  $400,000,000  worth  of  materials  yearly,  ar 
pay  $150,000,000  in  wages;  the  value  of  the  goods  made  being  $675,000,000.     A  few 
the  most  interesting  of  these  will  be  spoken  of  in  the  subsequent  paragraphs.      The  Massa- 
chusetts Bureau  of  Statistics  of  Labor  was  the  first  in  America  (founded  in  1869),  and 
still  the  most  efficient,  its  reports  having  a  world-wide  reputation,  and  affording  authority 
tive  figures  on  many  interesting  subjects  connected  with  industrial  development. 

Clinton  makes  carpets  in  great  quantities ;  Westfield,  whips ;  Attleborough,  jewelry 
Brockton,  shoes  ;  Wakefield,  rattan  goods  ;  Gardner,  chairs  ;  and  Amesbury  and  Merrimac 
carriages.     The  silk-mills  of  Belding  Bros.  &  Co.,  at  Northampton,  form  one  of  the  great 
system  of  works  belonging  to  that  corporation,  which  operates  other  mills  at  Rockville 
Conn. ;  Belding,  Mich. ;  San  Francisco,  and  in  Canada. 

Wire-drawing,  as  an  American   industry,  began  in  the  Plymouth  colony,  in  1666,  te 
years  before  King  Philip's  War,  when  the  legislature  reported  "being  desirous  to  encourage 
all  persons  among  us  in  manuall  arts  and  trade  of  publicque  utilitye,  and  being  informs 

that    there    ar 
in  this  towne 
sett  of  toolesfc 
wyer  -  drawing, 
and  that   ther 

some  in 
place  that  arc 
able  and  skill- 
ful in  that  iin- 

WORCESTER  \    WASHBURN    &    MOEN    MANUFACTURING    CO. 

ploy,     the    im- 

proovement  whereof  would  be  of  great  use  in  sundry  respects,  this  court  does  therefor 
order  the  Treasurer  of  the  county  to   disburse  out  of  the  public  treasury  such  a  sume 
money  as  will  be  necessary  for  the  purchase  of  the  said  instruments  and  tooles,  not  exceedin 
^15  ;  and  the  Treasurer  and  Major-General  Leverett  are  appointed  and  empowered  to  dis 
pose  of  the  said  instruments  so  as  may  best  further  the  ends  proposed." 

The  manufacture  of  iron  and  steel  wire  in  Massachusetts  shows  a  yearly  output 
$8,000,000.  The  foremost  house,  not  only  in  America,  but  in  the  whole  world,  is  tl 
Washburn  &  Moen  Manufacturing  Company,  founded  in  1831,  at  Worcester,  by  Ichal 
Washburn,  and  incorporated  in  1868.  They  employ  4,000  operatives,  in  very  extensive  am 
varied  methods  of  wire-working,  including  wire  rods,  telegraph  and  telephone  wire 
material  for  wire  cloth,  bale  ties,  barbed-wire  for  fences,  screws,  card  wire,  and  many  othe 
lines  of  manufacture.  The  works  cover  twelve  acres  of  floor-space,  with  many  substantu 
brick  buildings,  admirably  appointed  for  their  purpose.  The  North  Works  occupy  t< 
acres  of  ground,  and  the  South  Works  include  30  acres ;  and  the  company  also  h; 
wareh  o  u  s  e  s 
and  offices  at 

New    York,       "  '    ,  , ( EMHlMJil  CSnBT'r ||  jfiftffTT      '  "^ 

Chicago, 
Philadelphi  a 
and  San 
Francisco. 
The  product 
includes  150 
varieties  of  *  WORCESTER:  WASHBURN  &  MOEN  MANUFACTURING  co. 

wire,  and  articles  made  of  iron,  steel,  and  copper  wire,  and  the  uniform  high  quality 
these  goods  gives  this  house  its  commanding  position. 


THE  STATE   OF  MASSACHUSETTS. 


379 


NORTH    EASTON  I     OLIVER    AMES    &    SONS. 


The  shovel-making  in- 
dustry of  the  Oliver  Ames 
&  Sons  corporation,  at 
North  Easton,  the  largest 
shovel  works  in  the  world, 
began  in  the  year  1776, 
when  Capt.  John  Ames, 
the  Bridge  water  black- 
smith, began  to  forge 
cumbrous  hand-shaped  shovels  at  his  little  shop,  in  West  Bridgewater.  In  1803  his  son, 
Oliver  Ames,  founded  the  factory  at  North  Easton,  which  is  now  run  by  his  descendants. 
His  sons,  Oakes  Ames  and  Oliver  Ames,  were  well-known  in  the  political  world  and  as 
promoters  of  the  Union  Pacific  Railway.  The  business  is  now  owned  by  Oakes  A.  Ames 
and  Oliver  Ames  (recently  governor  of  Massachusetts),  sons  of  Oakes,  and  by  Frederick 
L.  Ames,  son  of  Oliver  Ames,  Junior,  the  second  of  the  name.  The  hammer  shops  are  at 
Easton,  West  Bridgewater  (on  the  site  of  the  original  shop  of  Capt.  John  Ames,  which 
has  always  remained  in  the  family),  South  Braintree,  and  Canton  ;  and  thence  the  moulds 
pass  to  North  Easton  to  be  finished,  polished,  and  made  ready  for  market.  Of  shovels  and 
spades  860  varieties  are  sent  all  over  America  and  the  civilized  world,  nearly  2,000,000 
being  turned  out  every  year.  These  articles  have  received  gold  medals  at  Melbourne  and 
Sydney,  Paris  and  Santiago.  The  village  of  North  Easton,  which  has  grown  up  around  the 
shovel-works,  is  beautified  and  guarded  by  the  Ameses  with  fraternal  interest,  and  they 
have  adorned  its  streets  with  a  town  hall  and  library  and  other  noble  buildings,  designed 
by  H.  H.  Richardson,  and  constructed  of  fine  masonry. 

That  electricity  has  become  a  powerful  element  in  the  production  of  artificial  light  and 
the  transmission  of  power  is  attested  by  the  cities  whose  streets  are  illuminated  by  electric 
lamps,  and  where  the  electric  current  has  displaced  animal  power  for  street-car  propulsion, 
and  the  innumerable  installations  where  electricity  is  used  for  lighting  and  various  forms  of 
power  transmission.  The  apparatus  in  the  larger  part  of  these  plants  is  manufactured  by 
the  Thomson- Houston  Electric  Company,  which  has  its  principal  office  in  Boston,  and 
branch  offices  in  important  cities  all  over  the  country.  This  is  the  only  electric  company 
prepared  to  furnish  complete  systems  of  arc  lighting,  direct  and  alternate  current  incandes- 
cent lighting,  and  the  transmission  of  power  for  electric  street-railway  and  stationary  work. 
The  Thomson-Houston  Electric  Company 
was  organized  at  New  Britain  (Conn.),  in 
1880;  and  remained  there  until  1883,  when 
the  business  was  moved  to  Lynn.  From  that 
time  until  the  present  the  capacity  of  the 
works  has  been  constantly  increased,  until 
they  are  to-day  the  largest  in  the  world  de- 
voted exclusively  to  the  manufacture  of  elec- 
trical apparatus.  Prof.  Thomson,  who,  with 
Prof.  Houston  of  Philadelphia,  designed  the 
arc  dynamo  which  has  met  with  such  general 
adoption,  still  retains  the  scientific  supervision  of  the  work  of  designing  and  manufactur- 
ing new  apparatus.  That  the  company's  systems  are  in  extended  use  is  evidenced  by  the 
fact  that  there  were  in  use  January  I,  1891,  in  the  United  States  alone,  more  than  80,000 
arc  and  500,000  incandescent  lamps  of  Thomson-Houston  manufacture. 

The  Thomson-Houston  Motor  Company  has  made  the  application  of  electrical  power 
transmission  a  specialty ;  and  the  practical  results  have  demonstrated  the  almost  unlimited 
variety  of  uses  to  which  the  transmission  of  power  by  electricity  may  be  applied.  That 
the  steam  engine,  with  its  accompanying  annoyances,  may  be  replaced  by  quiet-running 


THOMSON-HOUSTON     ELECTRIC 
THOMSON-HOUSTON     MOTOR 


380 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE   UNITED   STATES. 


electric  motors,  which  are  free  from  all  danger,  compact  and  reliable,  added  to  the  actual 
saving  in  expense  which  is  secured  by  such  a  change,  is  a  fact  that  has  been  clearly  demon- 
strated ;  and  the  constantly  increasing  demand  for  electrical  power  to  do  all  kinds  of  work 
shows  that  the  electric  motor  has  obtained  a  permanent  position  in  the  field  of  power  trans- 
mission. There  are  thousands  of  Thomson- Houston  motors  in  printing-offices,  machine- 
shops,  and  shoe-factories.  Electric  tramways  for  transportation  of  coal,  raw  materials, 
and  manufactured  products  of  mills  and  manufactories  have  become  one  of  the  standard 
demands.  The  Thomson- Houston  motor  is  the  only  one  that  has  been  successfully  applied 
to  work  of  this  nature.  The  same  statement  holds  for  the  application  of  electric  power  to 
the  operation  of  drawbridges ;  and  although  electricity  has  been  used  for  this  purpose  but 
a  short  time,  the  favorable  attention  of  engineers  and  bridge-builders  has  been  excited  by 
the  plants  now  in  operation.  A  still  more  recent  application  of  electrical  power  is  the 
electric  elevator.  That  this  method  of  furnishing  power  for  elevators  is  economical,  safe, 
and  reliable  is  being  realized  more  and  more,  and  there  has  been  a  constantly  growing 
demand  for  plants  of  this  description.  The  company  is  prepared  also  to  furnish  complete 

electric  hoists  and  travelling  cranes, 

!  ^lP       ^T\W^  Wi    which  for  facility  and  economy  in 

doing  heavy  work  cannot  be  sur- 
passed. 

The  largest  watch-factory  in  the 
world,  and  the  oldest  in  the  United 
States,  is  at  the  ideal  little  city  of 
Waltham,  where  the  beautiful 
Charles  River  emerges  from  the 

WALTHAM  :    AMERICAN   WALTHAM    WATCH    CO.  hill     country     Of     Massachusetts,     a 

few  miles  from  Boston.  These  great  works  of  the  American  Waltham  Watch  Company 
abound  in  wings,  towers,  courts,  and  offices,  and  imposing  architecture,  and  their  surround- 
ings are  decorated  with  trees,  lawns  and  flowers.  The  company  employs  1, 600  men  and 
1,200  women,  all  but  120  of  them  being  Americans,  and  the  average  age  being  32  years. 
The  product  of  these  works  has  passed  5,000,000  fine  watches,  and  its  daily  product  is 
2,000.  Fully  3,700  operations  are  necessary  to  make  a  stem-winding  watch  ;  and  all  these 
are  performed  by  the  most  marvellous  machinery,  guided  by  intelligent,  skilful  and  apt 
employes,  many  of  whom  are  stockholders  in  the  company.  The  American  Waltham 
watches  are  celebrated  all  over  the  world  for  their  accuracy  and  durability,  and  have  added 
much  glory  to  the  acknowledged  supremacy  of  American  ingenuity.  The  capital  stock  of 
the  company  is  $3,000,000,  and  there  is  a  large  surplus.  Its  main  financial  office  is  in 
Boston,  with  sales-rooms  in  New  York,  Chicago,  Boston,  Montreal,  and  London. 

The  first  Britannia  articles  made  in  America  were  turned  out  at  Taunton,  in  1824;  and 
six  years  later  was  built  the  brick  factory  which  after  three-score  years  still  forms  a  part  of 
Reed  &  Barton's  plant,  which  is  now  enormous,  substantial,  and  picturesque.  The  works 
cover  ten  acres,  and  have  six  acres  of  flooring  in  their  16  brick  buildings,  where  the  com- 
pany employs  700  men,  including  many  of  the  most  skilful  metal-workers  in  the  world. 
Britannia  is  now  but  a  small  product,  having 
been  almost*wholly  superseded  by  the  high- 
est grades  of  gold  and  silver  electro-plated 
ware,  of  rare  artistic  designs  and  manifold 
descriptions.  In  1889  Reed  &  Barton  began 
the  manufacture  of  sterling  silver  ware.  The 
various  useful  and  ornamental  articles  made 
here  ai^  sold  in  all  parts  of  Europe  and  Aus- 
tralia, as  well  as  North  and  South  America, 
and  compete  with  the  highest  grades  of  any 


TAUNTON  :     REED   A    BARTON. 


THE  STATE   OF  MASSACHUSETTS. 


SPRINGFIELD  :     SMITH    &    WESSON. 


producers,   the  stamp   "Reed  &  Barton"   being 
generally  recognized  by  the  trade  and  connois- 
seurs as  sufficient  guaranty  of  superb  quality. 

Smith  &  Wesson  founded  their  great  arms- 
making  business  in   Springfield  in  1857,  with  75 
workmen,  and  developed  it  efficiently  and  rap- 
idly, until  it  now  employs  from  400  to  700  skilled 
workmen,  and  turns  out  90,000  revolvers  yearly. 
The  factory  is  equipped  with  many  ingenious  and 
unusual  patented  devices,   which  have  been  ac- 
quired by  the  company.      Unhappy  America  used  the  entire  product  of  this  establishment 
until  1867.      Since  then,  vast  numbers  of  revolvers  have  been  sent  hence  to  Japan,  China, 
Chili,  Peru,  Brazil,  Cuba,  Mexico,  Turkey,  England,  and  all  Europe.      The  Russian  Gov- 
ernment has  bought  150,000  of  them.     The  parts  of  these  weapons  are  interchangeable,  of 
the  best  wrought-steel,  and  rigidly  inspected.     The  points  specially  in  favor  of  the  Smith 
&  Wesson  revolvers  are  their  safety,  force,  excellence  of  material,  and  simplicity'  and  con- 
venience in  loading.      The  latest  invention  made  here  is  a  new  model  revolver,  provided 
with  a  safety  device,  which  absolutely  prevents  accidental  discharge  of  the  arm. 

The  Wason  Car-Manufacturing  Co.,  at  Brightwood  (a  suburb  of  Springfield),  was  found- 
ed by  Thomas  W.  and  Charles  Wason,  in  1845.      The  little  shed  then  used  has  grown  into  a 
vast  establishment,  with  six  acres  of  flooring,  and  sixteen  acres  of  ground,  and  employing 
400  workmen,  on  the  average.      Lossing's  superb  volume,   The  American  Centenary,  calls 
_______  ^^^        this  "the  most  extensive  car-works  in  America." 

I  The  product  of  a  single  year  has  exceeded  $1,500,- 
ooo,  and  the  cars  made  here  are  now  running  on 
every  continent,  in  the  valley  of  the  Nile  and  over 
the  Andes  of  Chili,  as  well  as  along  our  great 
American  lines.  A  single  contract  with  the  Cen- 
tral Pacific  exceeded  $1,700,000;  and  one  with 
the  Central  Railroad  of  New  Jersey  reached 
$1,500,000.  Every  detail  of  this  peculiar  and 
interesting  business  is  carried  out  with  scrupulous 
care  at  the  Wason  works.  The  Royal  carriages  for  Portugal  and  Egypt  were  triumphs  of 
art  turned  out  here  ;  and  many  other  sumptuous  cars  now  running  on  distant  roads  bear 
witness  to  the  genius  of  the  Wason  mechanics. 

The  late  B.  F.  Sturtevant,  a  native  of  Maine,  with  no  other  possessions  than  a  knowl- 
edge of  the  shoemaker's  trade,  an  indomitable  will,  and  marvellous  ingenuity,  first  sought 
his  fortune  in  Boston  in  1860.  Noticing  that  the  leather  dust  and  clippings  from  the  shoe- 
bufnng  machines  then  in  use  were  exceedingly  annoying,  he  invented  a  blower  to  draw  them 
away.  Experiment  showed  these  fans  to  be  equally  well  adapted  for  removing  all  kinds  of 
light  refuse,  for  blowing  forge  and  cupola  fires,  and  for  the  ventilation  of  buildings.  By 
untiring  experiment  the  fan-blower  was  brought  up  to  its  present  high  standard  of  perfec- 


SPRINGFIELD :     WASON    CAR   WORKS. 


tion,  and  its  various  applications  vastly  increased. 
and  steam-heater  in  the  Sturtevant  Steam  Hot-Blast 
Apparatus  marks  an  epoch  in  the  method  of  heating 
and  ventilating  buildings,  and  also  in  the  drying  of 
lumber,  cotton,  wool,  fabrics,  pottery,  and  other 
articles.  It  furnishes  warm,  pure  air,  is  positive  in 
its  action,  and  removes  all  danger  from  fire  and  leak- 
age. In  1878  an  extensive  brick  manufactory,  hav- 
ing a  floor  space  of  over  five  acres,  was  erected  in 
the  Jamaica-Plain  District  of  Boston,  where  400 


The  combination   of  the  fan-blower 


BOSTON  :  B.  F.  STURTEVANT  co. 


382 


KING'S  HANDBOOK   OF   THE    UNITED   STA  TES. 


men  are  now  employed.  It  is  by 
far  the  largest  blower  manufactory 
in  the  world.  Business  is  now  car- 
ried on  under  the  title  of  the  B.  F. 
Sturtevant  Company,  with  branch 
houses  in  New  York,  Boston,  Chi- 
cago, and  London. 

The  Boston  Belting  Company  is 
the  original  manufacturer  of  vulcan- 
ized rubber  goods,  and  has  a  world- 
BOSTON  (ROXBURY)  :   BOSTON  BELTING  co.  wide  reputation  for   the   excellence 

of  its  manufactures.  It  was  established  in  1828,  in  Roxbury  (now  a  part  of  Boston),  where 
the  works  are  still  located.  The  works  are  the  largest  in  the  world  devoted  to  the  manu- 
facture of  mechanical  rubber  goods,  and  occupy  more  than  two  acres  of  ground,  mostly 
covered  with  substantial  four-story  buildings.  The  machinery,  which  is  of  the  most  pow- 
erful and  improved  kind  used  in  this  manufacture,  is  operated  by  several  large  steam-engines. 
Employment  is  given  to  450  operatives,  and  more  than  2,000  tons  of  pure  rubber  and  cot- 
ton-duck and  cloth  are  used  yearly,  in  the  manufacture  of  a  superior  quality  of  rubber  belting 
for  transmitting  power  to  all  kinds  of  machinery.  Rubber  hose  for  conducting  water,  steam 
and  air ;  rubber  packing  for  packing  water,  steam  and  air  joints ;  rubber  valves  for  use  in 
connection  with  stationary  and  marine  engines,  steam  pumps  and  similar  mechanisms ;  rub- 
ber blankets  for  newspaper,  book,  litho- 
graph, and  other  printing  presses,  and  cal- 
ico, satinet,  and  wall-paper  printing  ma- 
chines; rubber-covered  rollers  for  use  in 
cotton,  woolen,  and  paper  mills,  print  and 
dye  works,  and  bleacheries ;  rubber  deckle- 
straps  used  on  paper-making  machines ; 
rubber  suction  hose  for  fire-engines  and  for 
marine  and  mining,  and  other  purposes; 
rubber  gaskets,  springs,  tubing,  and  a 
great  variety  of  other  articles.  The  daily 
output  of  the  works  is  ten  tons  of  manufactured  goods,  which  are  distributed  over  the  civil- 
ized world.  The  capital  is  $700,000,  with  a  large  surplus.  The  company  has  stores  in 
Boston  and  New  York,  and  agencies  in  the  leading  cities  of  the  United  States  and  Europe. 
The  manufacturing  agent  and  general  manager,  James  Bennett  Forsyth,  has  been  with  the 
company  more  than  a  third  of  a  century,  and  is  the  patentee  of  most  of  the  useful  inven- 
tions which  have  so  greatly  aided  in  building  up  its  business. 

Rubber  and  elastic  goods  are  made  by  27  Massachusetts  companies,  to  the  yearly  value 
of  over  $7,000,000,  from  the  gum  obtained  from  .the  creamy  juices  of  certain  Brazilian 
and  Asiatic  trees.      The  first  rubber  shoes  in  the  civilized  world  were  a  single  pair,  brought 
•      .  ... — •>••    .  by  a  sailor  from  Para  to  Boston,  in  1825;  and 

during  the  next  ten  years  a  small  trade  arose, 
which  attained  vast  proportions  when  Hay- 
ward  and  Goodyear,  two  New-England  men, 
more  nearly  perfected  the  processes  of  manu- 
facture. The  largest  concern  of  the  kind  in 
the  world  is  the  Boston  Rubber-Shoe  Com- 
pany, founded  in  1853,  and  mainly  built  up  by 
its  treasurer  and  general  manager,  Elisha  S. 
Converse,  until  it  employs  2,800  operatives,  and 

BOSTON   RUBBER-SHOE   CO.  Can    make    45 >°°°    PairS  °f    SnO6S  daiI7-        The 


MELROSE  :     BOSTON    RUBBER-SHOE    CO. 


THE  STATE   OF  MASSACHUSETTS.  383 

great  warehouse  and  offices  are  in  Boston,  and  the  two  factories  are  five  miles  distant,  and  a 
mile  apart  —  No.  I  occupying  the  site  of  the  little  wooden  factory  originally  used,  in  Maiden, 
and  No.  2  being  in  Melrose,  on  the  edge  of  the  Middlesex  Fells.  The  shoes  made  here  are 
in  many  scores  of  varieties,  from  women's  light  Broadway  slippers  and  button  gaiters  up  to 
the  ponderous  "overs"  worn  by  lumbermen  in  the  Maine  and  Canadian  forests,  and  the 
heavy  hip-boots  for  Gloucester  and  Pacific-coast  fishermen  and  Chesapeake  gunners. 

The  ancient  gibe  that  the  only  natural  products  of  Massachusetts  are  granite  and  ice 
has  no  foundation  in  fact,  now  that  her  farms  yield  nearly  $50,000,000  a  year.  But  even 
this  output  fails  to  feed  the  hungry,  hearty  and  prosperous  millions  of  people  between  the 
yellow  sands  of  Cape  Cod  and  the  blue  hills  of  Berkshire,  and  therefore  great  meat-pack- 
ing houses  have  risen,  for  handling  incoming  Western  live-stock  from  the  prairie  States. 
There  are  only  two  larger  pork-packing  houses 
than  that  of  John  P.  Squire  &  Co.,  at  East  Cam- 
bridge. Twenty-one  acres  are  required  for  their 
immense  brick  buildings  and  adjuncts  ;  over  a  thou- 
sand persons  are  in  their  employ ;  and  their  yearly 
business  exceeds  sixteen  million  dollars.  Their 
meats  are  used  in  every  market  from  Maine  to 
Texas,  and  in  nearly  every  meat-consuming  coun- 
try in  Europe.  The  business  was  established  by 
John  P.  Squire  in  1842;  and  he  and  his  two  sons, 
Frank  O.  and  Fred  F.  Squire  now  comprise  the  firm.  EA«T  CAMBRIDGE:  JOHN  p.  SQUIRE  &  co. 

The  chocolate  mill  built  on  the  Neponset  River,  in  Dorchester,  in  1765,  is  said  to  have 
been  the  first  factory  of  the  kind  established  in  the  British  provinces  of  North  America. 
The  inception  of  the  enterprise  was  due  to  representations  made  by  James  Hannan,  an  Irish 
immigrant,  who  had  learned  the  "  mystery"  of  chocolate-making  in  England.  Small  quan- 
tities of  crude  cocoa,  brought  home  by  Massachusetts  sailors,  had  been  roasted  and  coarsely 
ground  before ;  but  the  more  delicate  and  nutritious  preparation  was  undoubtedly  first  manu- 
factured at  the  Dorchester  mill.  The  new  industry  prospered  in  a  small  way,  and  on  the  death 
of  Hannan,  in  1780,  Dr.  James  Baker  established  the  house  which  has  continued  the  busi- 
ness without  interruption  from  that  , _  day  to  this.  It  is  certainly  an 


interesting  fact,   and  one  without 
on  the  spot  where  such  a  small  en- 
and  a  quarter  ago,  there  has  grown 
lishments  in  the  world,  the 
which  competes  success- 
industrial    exhibitions    of 
is  felt  in  the  great  corn- 
prosperity  promotes   the 
who  labor  under  a  tropi- 
tion  of  one  of  the  choicest 
Their    various     prepara- 
bean  have  stood  the  test  of  public  ap- 
one  hundred  years,  and  are  the  acknowl- 
rity  and  excellence.     The  Baker  Choco- 
modern   brick    buildings,    close    to    the 


DORCHESTER    CeOSTONj 
WALTER    BAKER    &    CO. 


parallel   in  this  country,  that 
terprise  was  started  a  century 
up  one  of  the  greatest  estab- 
house  of  Walter  Baker  &  Co., 
fully  for  prizes  in  all  the  great 
Christendom,  whose  influence 
mercial    centres,    and    whose 
welfare   of  hundreds   of  men 
cal  sun  in  the  cultiva- 
fruits    of    the    earth, 
tions  from  the  cocoa 
proval  for  more  than 
edged  standard  for  pu- 
late  Mills  are  massive, 
Neponset  River. 


Confectionery  is  largely  manufactured  in  Massachusetts,  the  leading  house  being 
Fobes,  Hayward  &  Co.,  of  Boston,  one  of  the  largest  in  America.  It  began  in  1848,  under 
Daniel  Fobes's  direction;  took  the  present  name  in  1860;  and  received  incorporation 
in  1886.  This  establishment  covers  acres  of  flooring,  and  has  300  operatives,  with  a 
great  amount  of  ingenious  machinery,  made  in  the  building  from  the  company's  de- 
signs. The  annual  product  is  6, 000,000  pounds  of  candy,  the  chief  staples  being  lozenges, 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 

1  which  are  cut  in  parts,  like  crackers  ;  gum-drops,  made  from 
a  solution  of  sugar  and  gum-arabic  ;  marsh-mallows  of  a  supe- 
rior quality  ;  chocolate  confections  of  many  kinds  and  grades  ; 
and  "panwork,"  including  candied  almonds,  cloves,  and  other 
goodies.  No  other  line  of  goods  is  so  free  from  adulterations 
as  this,  for  the  main  element  is  the  best  refined  sugar,  and  the 
purity  of  all  the  ingredients  is  carefully  looked  after.  The 
Fobes,  Hayward  &  Co.  goods  are  thoroughly  distributed  all 
over  the  Union,  even  to  Oregon  and  California. 

In  several  respects  the  recognized  preeminent  house  in  the 
boot  and  shoe-  business  of  New  England  is  the  firm  of  Wm. 
Claflin,  Coburn  &  Co.,  one  of  the  oldest  houses  in  the  trade 
(if  not  the  oldest).  It  was  founded  in  1821,  by  Lee  Claflin, 
BOSTON  :  FOBES,  HAYWARD  &  co.  whose  son,  Wm.  Claflin,  now  the  senior  partner,  has  served 
with  honor  as  member  of  Congress  and  Governor  of  Massachusetts.  Their  factories  are 
located  at  South  Framingham  and  at  Hopkinton,  and  produce  men's  and  boys'  boots  and 
shoes,  from  calf  and  veal,  split  and  grain  leather,  in  sewed,  pegged,  and  standard  screw. 
The  Hopkinton  works  were  founded  in  1843,  m  conjunc- 
tion with  N.  P.  Coburn  (now  of  Newton),  one  of  the  senior 
partners.  Another  of  the  partners  is  James 
A.  Woolson  (of  Cambridge),  who  has  been  con-  ~~ 
nected  with  the  house  since  boyhood,  for  over 
40  years.  The  South-Framingham  factory  is 
run  under  the  style  of  Gregory  &  Co., 
Wm.  F.  Gregory  being  one  of  the  junior 
partners,  the  other  being  Oliver  B.  Root 
(both  of  Framingham).  The  headquar- 
ters of  the  firm  are  on  the  site  of  Daniel 
Webster's  home,  on  Summer  Street,  Bos- 
ton, in  a  spacious  and  handsome  iron 
structure,  rebuilt  in  1890.  WM-  CLAFLIN,  COBURN  &  co.-s  FACTORIES. 

Another  one  of  the  greatest  houses  in  the  boot  and  shoe  business  is  that  of  Rice  &  Hutchins, 
which,  although  founded  by  W.  B.  Rice  and  H.  H.  Hutchins,  in  1866,  only  a  quarter  ot  a 
century  ago,  has  risen  to  an  unquestioned  preeminence  in  the  trade.  The  firm  own  and 
operate  seven  factories  at  Marlborough,  North  Easton,  and  Boston,  and  at  Warren  (Maine), 


BOSTON    OFFICE. 


where  they 
and    shoes 


employ  3,000  operatives,  making  a  complete  variety  of  boots 
for  men,  boys,  and  youths.  Besides  their  own  goods,  they 
handle  various  lines  of  other  manufactures. 
The  house  is  reported  as  worth  upwards  of  a 
million  dollars,  and  does  a  business  exceed- 
ing $2,000,000  a  year,  sending  their  goods  to 
all  parts  of  the  country,  and  continually  add- 
ing to  their  resources  and  trade.  The  main 
offices  and  salesrooms  of  Rice  &  Hutchins 
are  in  Boston. 

The   textile    manufactures  of   the    world 
RICE  &  HUTCHiNS's  FACTORIES.  have  been  greatly  advanced  by  the  Crompton 

Loom,  one  of  the  most  beneficent  discoveries  of  the  century.  In  1836,  William  Crompton, 
a  skillful  mechanic,  weaver  and  mill-superintendent,  migrated  from  Lancashire  in  England 
to  Massachusetts,  where,  to  meet  a  demand,  he  invented  the  loom  which  bears  his  name. 
He  patented  it  in  America  in  1837,  and  in  England  soon  afterward  ;  and  in  1840,  with  the 
aid  of  this  machine,  the  Middlesex  Mills,  of  Lowell,  wove  the  first  fancy  cassimeres  that 


VORCESTER  :    CROMPTON    LOOM    WORKS. 


THE  STATE   OF  MASSACHUSETTS.  385 

had   ever  been  made  in   the  world  by 
machinery.    George  Crompton  succeeded 

HJHBftJI^ta^tt^Siiif  to  ^*s  father's  business  in  1849,  an<^ 
made  many  improvements  and  modifica- 
tions for  weaving  ginghams,  carpets,  rib- 
bons, silks,  tapes,  and  fine  woolen  cloths. 
After  his  death,  in  1886,  this  vast  busi- 
ness was  incorporated  under  the  name  of 
the  Crompton  Loom  Works.  The  works 
at  Worcester  occupy  extensive  and  hand- 
some Queen- Anne  buildings,  and  employ 
700  men,  and  a  vast  quantity  of  ingenious 
machinery,  making  looms  for  mills  all  over  the  Union.  They  are  the  largest  fancy-loom 
works  in  America,  and  their  varied  products  are  remarkable  for  simplicity  of  construction, 
rapidity  and  power  of  action,  and  ability  to  produce  the  choicest  weaving  effects  ;  and  are 
constantly  receiving  improvements  in  mechanism. 

Whitinsville,  in  the  town  of  Northbridge,  possesses  the  Whitin  Machine  Works,  that 
for  over  60  years  have  been  known  to  manufacturers  of  cotton  goods  the  world  over.  This 
vicinity  as  early  as  1 700  was  known  for  its  iron-mines,  and  the  public  records  ever  since 
1727  make  frequent  reference  to  iron-works.  One  third  ownership  in  these  was  acquired  in 
1794  by  Paul  Whitin,  the  father  of  John  C.  Whitin,  to  whom  is  chiefly  due  the  credit  of 
the  great  machine-works.  At  the  iron-works  was  first  made  bar  and  scrap  iron,  and  later 
agricultural  implements,  including  a  specialty  of  the  large  hoes  used  by  slaves  in  the  South. 
But  the  machine-shops  did  not  arise  from  the  iron-works,  although  no  doubt  the  inherited 
interest  in  iron-working  had  some  influence.  The  Whitin  families  had  become  interested 
in  cotton  manufacturing,  and  were  among  the  pioneers  in  this  line  in  the  Blackstone  valley. 
Paul  Whitin  in  1814  became  one  of  the  founders  and  main  owners  of  the  Northbridge  Cot- 
ton Manufacturing  Company,  the  original  mill  of  which  years  afterward  became  the  main 
shop  of  the  machine-works.  The  picking  of  cotton  was  a  laborious  and  crude  matter,  the 
cotton  being  sent  out  a  bale  or  part  of  a  bale  at  a  time  to  families,  until  John  C.  Whitin,  in 
1830,  created  a  picker  or  lapper  that  effectually  did  away  with  hand  labor.  That  useful 
picker  practically  gave  rise  to  these  cotton-machine,  factories,  which  in  size  of  plant,  in 
thoroughness  of  equipment  and  in  value  of  output  of  strictly  cotton-machinery,  surpass  all 
others  on  this  continent.  The  neatness  of  the  extensive  factories  and  the  attractiveness 
of  their  surroundings  are  especially  notable.  At  these  works  is  made  a  full  line  of 
cotton- machinery,  including  openers,  lappers,  cards,  railway-heads,  drawing,  ring  spinning, 
spoolers,  twisters,  reels,  looms,  and  other  articles.  While  the  Whitins  have  taken  out 
many  patents,  their  remarkable  success  has  been 
attained  mainly  by  the  unquestioned  superiority  of 
their  machinery  and  their  recognized  business  abil- 
ity. The  firm  for  over  30  years  was  P.  Whitin  & 
Sons;  and  the  business  included  the  cotton-man- 
ufacturing and  the  machine-shops.  In  1865  John 
C.  Whitin  alone  acquired  the  machine-works, 
which  since  1870  have  been  owned  by  the  Whitin 
Machine  Works,  a  stock  company  with  a  capital 
of  $600,000,  and  whose  plant  covers  over  eight 
acres  of  floor-space.  It  is  run  by  water  power 
from  Mumford  River,  and  gives  employment  in  the  busy  season  to  one  thousand  men. 

Among  the  comfortable  domestic  appointments  of  the  first  colonists  were  found  many 
bits  of  highly-prized  carpet,  brought  from  over  the  seas.  Governor  Eaton  had  plate  to  the 
value  of  ^150,  and  besides  this  treasure,  tapestry  coverings  and  a  "Turkish  carpet."  The 


WHITINSVILLE  I    WHITIN    MACHINE   WORKS. 


LOWELL  :    LOWELL   CARPET    CO. 


386  KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 

inextinguishable  rage  of  modern  Boston  for  Ori- 
ental rugs,  prayer-mats  from  Bokhara  and  Turkestan, 
finely  woven  Ispahan  and  Mirzapore  carpets,  and 
draperies  from  Constantinople  and  Kurdistan,  has 
thus  a  warrant  of  heredity  more  than  two  centuries 
old.  The  Lowell  Carpet  Company  has  in  the  city  of 
Lowell  the  largest  carpet-mills  in  America,  and  there 
is  but  one  in  all  Europe  as  large.  This  immense 
enterprise  dates  from  1828.  In  1838,  E.  B.  Bigelow  was  enabled  under  its  auspices  to 
complete  his  great  invention  of  the  carpet  power-loom  which  was  first  successfully  put 
in  operation  at  the  Lowell  works.  The  growth  of  this  industry  has  been  rapid  and  solid, 
and  since  1880  it  has  doubled  its  output.  More  than  2,000  people  are  employed,  making 
the  best  quality  of  Wiltons,  Brussels,  and  Ingrains,  which  are  distributed  all  over  America. 
When  in  full  operation  the  mill  uses  10,000,000  pounds  of  wool  a  year,  and  produces 
upwards  of  4,000,000  yards  of  carpet.  The  processes  of  manufacture  are  exceedingly 
interesting,  and  the  wonderful  machinery  used  in  the  mill  seems  possessed  of  almost  human 
intelligence. 

The  mills  of  the  Dwight  Manufacturing  Company  are  at  Chicopee,  three  miles  above 
Springfield,  and  embrace  the  Cabot  mills,  organized  in  1832  ;  the  Perkins  Company,  in 
1836;  and  the  Dwight  Company,  in  1841.  These  mills  were  consolidated  in  1856,  under 
the  present  name,  and  now  have  130,000  spindles,  3,400  looms,  and  upward  of  two  miles  in 

length  of  floor  space. 
They  form  one  of  the 
finest  plants  in  New 
England,  and  its 


ings  find  a  market 
CHICOPEE  :  DWIGHT  COTTON  MILLS.  in  china  and  Tur- 

key, Africa  and  South  America,  while  its  Anchor  sheetings,  Dwight  Stars,  and  other  brands 
— of  which  a  large  variety  are  made  —  have  a  leading  reputation  with  the  trades.  The 
treasurer  of  the  company  is  J.  Howard  Nichols,  with  his  office  in  the  Exchange  Building, 
Boston;  and  the  selling  agents  are  Minot,  Hooper  &  Co.,  of  Boston  and  New  York. 

The  chief  corporation  in  New  Bedford  is  the  Wamsutta  Mills,  one  of  the  largest  and 
best-known  companies  in  New  England,  incorporated  in  1846,  and  now  possessed  of  a  cap- 
ital stock  of  $3,000,000,  and  a  plant  worth  over  $4,000,000,  ably  directed  by  Andrew  G. 
Pierce,  the  treasurer.  The  company  has  six  great  mills,  of  stone  and  brick,  containing 
217,000  spindles  and  4,250  looms,  and  employing  2,500  operatives,  making  eighty  varieties 
of  fine  shirtings  and  sheetings,  cambric  muslins,  lawns  and  momie  cloth,  sateens  and  cre- 
tonnes, and  fine  fancy  weaves,  besides  great  quantities  of  fine  cotton  yarns.  When  running 
full,  the  Wamsutta  Mills  use  yearly  25,000 
bales  of  cotton  (much  of  it  i£  to  i^-inch 
staple,  and  also  the  strong  "benders" 
variety,  grown  in  the  bends  of  the  Miss- 
issippi River);  and  make  from  it  24,000,- 
ooo  yards  of  cloth,  half  of  which  is  sent  to 
Sayles'  Bleachery  to  be  whitened,  while  the 
rest  is  sold  in  the  "brown."  The  standard 
and  unvarying  excellence  of  its  shirtings 
and  sheetings  has  made  Wamsutta  a  house- 
hold word  all  over  the  civilized  world.  NEW  BEDFORD  :  WAMSUTTA  MILLS. 


THE  STATE   OF  MASSACHUSETTS. 


387 


MAYNARD  :  ASSABET  MILLS. 


One  of  the  largest  American  establish- 
ments for  the  manufacture  of  woolen  fabrics 
is  that  of  the  Assabet  Manufacturing  Com- 
pany, at  Maynard.  Nearly  every  kind  and 
quality  of  woolen  fabric  is  here  manufactured; 
and  the  products  of  the  mills  are  widely 
known  and  find  a  ready  market  in  every  State 
in  the  Union,  and  in  Mexico,  South  America 
and  Europe.  The  works  cover  ten  acres  of 
flooring.  The  yearly  consumption  of  wool 
is  5,000,000  pounds.  The  amount  of  goods 
yearly  manufactured  is  8,500,000  yards,  strictly  wool.  No  cotton  is  ever  used  in  this 
establishment.  The  mills  have  66  sets  of  the  most  improved  woolen  machinery,  and  employ 
1,000  persons  constantly.  In  1845,  Amory  Maynard  and  William  H.  Knight  bought  the 
water-rights,  and  the  Assabet  mills  were  begun  the  next  year,  and  opened  in  1847,  f°r 
making  carpets  and  carpet-yarns.  Knight  retired  in  1852  ;  and  Maynard  gradually  changed 
the  machinery,  and  made  blankets  and  flannels.  Steam-power  was  not  introduced  until 
1862.  The  yearly  product  now  reaches  over  $2,000,000,  in  all  classes  of  woolen  cloths, 
cassimeres,  flannels  and  other  varieties ;  and  the  name  of  Assabet  Mills  is  a  perfect  guar- 
antee of  high  excellence.  The  present  company  was  organized  in  1862,  and  its  officers  are 

Charles  P.  Hemenway,  President ;  T.  Quincy  Browne, 
Treasurer ;  and  Lorenzo  Maynard,  Agent. 

Another  preeminent  industry  of  Massachusetts  is 
the  manufacture  of  silk  piece  goods  for  tailoring  pur- 
poses, in  which  the  William  Skinner  Manufacturing 
Company  stands  without  a  rival  in  the  world,  being 
also  the  foremost  house  in  America  for  making 
braids  for  tailors'  use.  This  commanding  department 
of  the  Bay  State's  industrial  development  dates  its  ori- 
gin from  1848,  when  William  Skinner  began  the  man- 
ufacture of  sewing  silks.  The  works  were  at  Hayden- 
ville,  and  suffered  total  destruction  by  the  fatal  bursting 
of  the  Williamsburg  reservoir,  in  1874.  They  were  rebuilt  at  Holyoke,  on  a  larger  scale, 
and  the  company  received  incorporation  in  1889,  replacing  the  title  of  William  Skinner  & 
Sons  with  the  present  one.  All  makers  of  clothing  for  American  men  are  familiar  with  the 
fine  products  of  these  Holyoke  mills,  which  are  mainly  wholesaled  through  the  company's 
stores  at  New  York,  Boston,  and  Chicago. 

The  manufacture  of  straw  goods  for  ladies  and  children  was  placed  on  a  firm  basis  in 
1832,  by  William  Knowlton,  at  West  Upton,  which  had  been  celebrated  even  then  for  nearly 
a  score  of  years  for  its  straw  cord,  gimps,  braids,  and  bonnets.  The  works  of  Wm. 
Knowlton  &  Sons  now  cover  five  acres,  and  employ  1,500  persons,  making  straw  plaits, 

braids  and  laces,  from  all  over  the  world  (and  prin- , 

cipally  from  Italy,  Switzerland,  China,  and  Japan),       ^i^ 

into  all  manner  of  articles  for  feminine  head- wear.  j^ff5 "         ^^ 

This  is  the  foremost  American  house  in  the  manu- 
facture of  ladies'  hats,  and  is  famous  for  the  beauty 
and  taste  of  its  designs  and  the  perfection  of  its 
goods.  For  three  generations,  working  in  straw 
has  been  the  foremost  industry  of  this  peaceful  vil- 
lage, and  the  accumulated  experience  and  tact  thus 
made  hereditary  has  been  augmented  by  locating 
here  many  English  straw- workers  from  Luton.  The  WEST  UPTON  :  WM.  KNOWLTON  & 


HOLYOKE   :    WM. 


ANUFACTURING    CO. 


388  KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE   UNITED   STATES. 

founder  of  the  house  died  in  1886,  and  the  busi- 
ness is  carried  on  by  his  four  sons,  in  the  old 
name.  The  sales-room  of  Wm.  Knowlton  & 
Sons  is  at  New  York. 

The  T.  K.  Earle  Manufacturing  Company 
of  Worcester  was  the  oldest  and  largest  concern 
in  the  United  States  for  the  manufacture  of  card 
clothing,  and  its  productions  have  a  reputation 
which  is  second  to  none.  July  I,  1890,  this 
company  sold  its  machinery,  patents  and  stock 
WORCESTER  :  T.  K.  EARLE  MANUFACTURING  co.  to  the  American  Card  Clothing  Company  of 
Worcester,  a  corporation  formed  for  the  manufacture  of  card  clothing,  and  which  bought 
out  all  of  the  important  card  making  concerns  in  the  United  States  at  the  same  time.  The 
American  Card  Clothing  Company  has  control  of  all  the  needle-point  grinding  patents  and 
also  of  the  patent  flexifort  card  cloths.  These  last-mentioned  card-cloths  are  the  best 
backings  or  foundations  for  card-teeth  yet  discovered,  being  entirely  without  stretch  and  of 
practically  unbreakable  strength,  and  they  are  rapidly  displacing  all  other  foundations  for 
the  best  card  clothing.  The  patent  flexifort  consists  of  straight  laid  linen  warps,  which 
cannot  stretch,  and  it  is  introduced  into  all  kinds  of  card-cloths.  The  American  Card 
Clothing  Company  has  factories  at  Worcester,  Leicester,  Providence,  Lowell,  Lawrence, 
Walpole,  North-Andover  Depot,  Manchester,  and  Philadelphia ;  and  has  a  complete  equip- 
ment for  its  trade,  including  needle-point  and  flexifort  card-cloth  patents,  as  previously 
mentioned.  It  is  managed  by  conservative  and  careful  men,  who  give  the  business  their 
whole  attention,  and  whose  practical  experience  has  stood  the  test  of  satisfying  American 
cotton  and  woolen  manufacturers  with  first-class 
card  clothing  for  the  past  fifty  years. 

Among  the  products  necessary  for  the  mari- 
time business  of  New  England,  cordage  holds  an 
important  place,  and  its  manufacture  was  one  of 
the  first  industries  of  the  colonists.  Fishing  and 
agriculture  were  their  chief  means  of  support,  and 

the  need  of  cordage  in  fitting  out  their  fishing  fleets  CHELSEA  :  SUFFOLK  CORDAGE  co. 

compelled  them  to  make  their  own  ropes.  Boston  was  the  centre  of  this  industry,  and  its 
rope-makers  at  the  beginning  of  the  Revolution  were  among  the  most  daring  in  resisting 
the  British  soldiery.  In  the  rope-walk  at  the  Charlestown  Navy-yard  is  manufactured  all 
the  cordage  required  by  the  Navy  Department.  In  the  adjoining  city  of  Chelsea,  the  Suffolk 
Cordage  Company  (whose  office  is  in  Boston)  has  an  establishment  of  far  greater  magni- 
tude, fitted  up  with  all  the  modern  machinery.  Their  rope-walk  is  1,700  feet  long;  and  is 
connected  with  the  main  building,  300  feet  long  by  100  feet  wide,  and  two  stories  in  height, 
in  which  500  jenneys  are  busy  spinning  yarns  for  rope-making.  This  factory  stands  on  a 
tract  of  50  acres,  connected  with  the  Boston  &  Maine  and  Boston  &  Albany  Railroad  sys- 
tems, thus  facilitating  the  shipment  of  goods  to  all  parts  of  America.  Within  the  past  ten 

years  there  has  been  a  great  change  in  the  cordage 
industry.  Prior  to  1880,  the  product  was  chiefly 
used  for  maritime  and  mechanical  purposes,  but 
now  a  large  part  is  in  the  shape  of  binder-twine, 
50,000  tons  in  weight  (amounting  to  over  10,000,- 
oco  miles  in  measurement)  of  which  is  used  yearly 
for  binding  wheat.  The  product  of  the  Suffolk 
Cordage  Company  varies  from  this  binder-twine, 
about  y1^-  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  to  immense  haw- 
DANVERS  ;  STATE  INSANE  ASYLUM.  sers,  twelve  to  15  inches  in  circumference,  and 


THE  STATE   OF  MASSACHUSETTS. 


HOLYOKE  :    PARSONS    PAPER   CO. 


3% 

adapted  to  the  severest  strain  to  which  ropes 
are  applied. 

The  wonderful  development  of  Holyoke, 
"The  Paper  City,"  from  an  obscure  river- 
side hamlet  to  a  municipality  of  36,000  in- 
habitants, making  180  tons  of  paper  daily, 
comes  in  great  part  from  the  faith  and  enter- 
prise of  Joseph  C.  Parsons,  who  after  13 
years  of  paper-making  elsewhere,  came  to 
this  place  in  1853,  and  established  the  first 
mill  of  the  Parsons  Paper  Company,  now  one  of  the  preeminent  paper- making  establish- 
ments of  the  world,  having  a  plant  worth  upwards  of  a  million  dollars,  and  a  business  co- 
extensive with  the  boundaries  of  this  country.  The  Parsons  mills  make  the  finest  grades 
of  bond  and  bank-note  paper,  Scotch  linen  ledger,  parchment  paper,  and  other  varie- 
ties. They  have  developed,  year  after  year,  and  erected  new  buildings,  with  modern  equip- 
ments, to  supply  the  rising  demand  for  exquisite  qualities  of  paper.  The  Parsons  Paper 
Mill  No.  2,  said  to  be  the  best  in  the  world,  and  with  the  finest  and  most  improved  ma- 
chinery, dates  from  1889,  and  is  devoted  to  the  choicest  grades  of  paper  and  the  most  in- 
teresting processes  of  its  manufacture. 

The  making  of  paper  was  one  of  the  earliest  industries  of  Massachusetts,  having  been 
started  in  1730,  by  Daniel  Henchman,  an  enter- 
prising Boston  bookseller.  Close  by  his  mill, 
amid  the  picturesque  hills  of  Milton,  dwelt  the 
Crane  family,  whose  sons  thus  early  became 
familiar  with  the  mysteries  of  paper-making. 
In  1799  young  Zenas  Crane  mounted  his  horse, 
and  rode  westward,  until  he  found  the  pure 
and  copious  waters  in  the  pleasant  glens  of  Dai- 
ton,  and  in  1801  he  founded  a  little  one-vat 
paper-mill,  the  first  mill  built  in  Berkshire 
County,  with  a  capacity  of  2, 500  sheets  a  day,  and  a  force  of  seven 
operatives.  From  this  germ  sprang  the  25  great  paper-mills  of 
Berkshire,  with  their  yearly  product  .of  $3,500,000.  The  factory 
afterwards  famous  as  the  Old  Red  Mill  was  built  by  Carson,  Chamberlin  &  Wiswell,  in 
1809,  and  the  following  year  Mr.  Crane  became  a  partner  and  manager,  advancing  to  its 
sole  proprietorship  in  1822.  This  mill  was  burned  in  1870,  and  replaced  with  the  stone 
Pioneer  Mill,  fitted  with  the  most  modern  and  costly  machinery.  When  Zenas  Crane  died, 
in  1845,  his  business  passed  into  the  hands  of  his  sons,  Zenas  M.  and  James  B.  Crane,  who 
have  given  the  name  of  Crane  &  Co.  a  world-wide  reputation.  Crane  &  Co.,  in  their 
Government  Mill,  have  since  1879  made  all  the  paper  for  the  United-States  bonds,  checks, 

postal  notes,  certificates,  and  National-bank  and 
treasury-notes.  The  National  flag  constantly 
flies  over  it,  and  Treasury-Department  officials 
are  kept  on  duty  there.  The  Pioneer  Mill  makes 
parchment  and  bond  papers,  and  also  bank-note 
paper.  Crane  &  Co.  manufacture  more  of  the 
money  paper  on  which  the  world's  circulating 
medium  is  printed  than  any  other  firm  in  America 
or  Europe,  and  supply  many  foreign  govern- 
ments, like  Canada,  Mexico,  the  South-Ameri- 
can republics,  Greece  and  Italy.  Zenas  M. 
HOLYOKE  :  PARSONS  PAPER  co.  Crane,  then  senior  member  of  the  firm  of  Crane 


39° 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE    UNITED   STATES. 


DALTON  :    Z.   &  W.    M.    CRANE. 


&  Co.,  died  March  12,  1887,  at  the  age  of  72  years.     The  present  members  of  the  fin 
are  James  B.  Crane,  Zenas  Crane,  and  W.  Murray  Crane. 

One  of  the  great  mills  at  Dalton  is  that  of     r_^ 

Z.  &  W.  M.  Crane.  This  plant  is  devoted  to 
the  manufacture  of  ladies'  fine  stationery,  satin- 
finished,  dead-finished,  Distaff,  Parchment, 
Vellum  and  other  varieties,  in  delicate  tints, 
and  of  unsurpassed  finish  and  elegance.  These 
exquisite  papers  have  triumphantly  won  the 
supremacy  formerly  accorded  to  the  best  grades 
of  foreign  paper,  and  are  used  by  ladies  of  taste 
and  cultivation  all  over  the  Union.  The  mem- 
bers of  this  firm,  Zenas  Crane  and  W.  Murray  Crane,  are  also  partners  in  Crane  &  Co.  and 
the  Old  Berkshire  Mills.  This  great  family,  which  has  done  for  American  paper-making 
more  than  the  Montgolfiers  did  for  that  of  France,  has  been  prominent  in  public  life  and  in 
the  generous  endowment  of  philanthropies.  Zenas  Crane,  the  pioneer,  was  Executive  Coun- 
cillor to  Gov.  Everett ;  Zenas  M.  Crane,  to  Gov.  Andrew ;  and  Zenas  Crane,  to  Gov. 
Robinson.  The  present  mill  of  Z.  &  W.  M.  Crane  was  built  in  1877,  and  is  especially 
equipped  for  producing  the  finest  goods  in  its  line. 

The  mountains  looking  down  on  Dalton,  and  the  bright  Housatonic  River  rippling  past 
its  farms  and  churches,  may  well  feel  proud  of  their  little  Massachusetts  village,   whose 
fame  in  fine  paper-making  has  gone  into  the  ends  of  the  earth,  and  whose  materials  will 
be  used  to  pass  down  written  and  printed  records  of  this  generation'to  all  future  genera- 
tions.     Here  are  located  the  mills  of  Byron  Weston,  who  makes  the  best  paper  in   th< 
world  for  records,  ledgers,  and  legal  documents.      Nearly  four   tons  of  this  excellent  prc 
duct  are  manufactured  daily,  and  vast  quantities  are  shipped  to   the  Far  West  and 
Pacific  Coast,  as  well  as  to  all  the  older  States.     This  is  the  only  paper-mill  in  the  work 
devoted  exclusively  to  fine  linen  ledger  and  record  paper,   and  only  one  grade  of 
and  that  always  the  best.      Byron  Weston  learned  the  art  of  paper-making  at  Saugertic 
(N.  Y.),  and  in  the  mill  at   Lee  (Mass.),  and  elsewhere.      He  served  as  a  captain  in  th( 

4Qth  Massachusetts,  in  Louisiana,  and  received  a  wound  at 
Port  Hudson  ;  and  then  returned  home,  and  bought  a  paper- 
mill  at  Dalton,  where  he  soon  concentrated  his  energies  or 
making  document  and  legal  paper,  to  "defy  the  tooth 
time."  The  plant  now  comprises  two  large  and  elega 
mills,  complete  in  every  respect.  Up  to  1870  most  of  th( 
paper  used  for  American  records  and  public  documents 
came  from  England,  but  now  only  one  or  two  record  offi- 
ces use  imported  paper,  the  Weston  product  being  much 
better.  Over  20  first-class  medals  have  been  received  for 
superiority  and  excellence,  including  the  Paris  Exposition, 
the  Centennial,  the  Adelaide,  the  New-Zealand,  the 
Franklin  Institute  at  Philadelphia,  and  the  Massachusett 
Charitable  Mechanic  Association.  Mr.  Weston  servi 
as  Lieutenant-Governor  of  Massachusetts  in  1880-83;  and  occupies  the  beautiful  estate  of 
Westonholme,  at  Dalton. 

Some  of  the  largest  and  most  noted  paper-mills  in  the  world  are  found  in  Massachu- 
setts, the  pure  water  of  whose  streams  is  peculiarly  adapted  to  this  industry.  Among  the 
oldest  and  foremost  dealers  in  paper  of  every  variety,  and  paper  stock,  wood  pulp,  and  simi- 
lar staples  is  the  Rice-Kendall  Company  of  Boston,  whose  trade  covers  a  vast  area  of  th( 
United  States,  and  draws  its  supplies  from  many  sources.  Alexander  H.  Rice  became  a 
partner  in  Wilkins,  Carter  &  Co.,  in  1844,  and  a  few  years  later  joined  Charles  S.  Kendall 


DALTON   :    BYRON    WESTON    PAPER-MILL 


BOSTON  I    RICE-KENDALL   CO. 


THE  STATE   OF  MASSACHUSETTS. 

in  a  new  firm,  styled  Rice,  Kendall  &  Co.,  succeeded  in  1889,  after 
almost  half  a  century's  successful  career,  by  a  stock  company 
styled  the  Rice-Kendall  Company.  Mr.  Rice  has  served  the  people 
for  many  years,  as  mayor  of  Boston,  member  of  Congress,  and 
Governor  of  Massachusetts.  As  agents  of  numerous  paper-mills, 
this  house  has  sent  out  hundreds  of  thousands  of  tons  of  paper,  in 
bundles  and  in  rolls,  to  the  great  daily  papers  and  the  leading  peri- 
odicals, besides  supplying  the  printers  and  book-publishers  of  nearly 
every  State  with  thousands  and  thousands  of  reams  upon  which  the 
books  of  the  past  half-century  have  been  printed.  The  Rice-Ken- 
dall Company  have  their  main  offices  and  warehouses  in  Boston, 
but  the  greater  part  of  their  paper  is  shipped  direct  from  their 
various  mills  in  New  England  to  their  patrons  throughout  the 
country. 

The  Morgan  Envelope  Company  of  Springfield  was  founded  in  1864  by  Elisha  Morgan, 
and  incorporated  in  1870;  and  in  1882  erected  its  handsome  factory,  230x55  feet  in 
area  and  six  stories  high.  It  is  hardly  equalled  anywhere  for  its  size,  perfect  equipment, 
large  capacity,  and  elegant  offices.  There  are  250  operatives,  and  the  capacity  of  the  works 
is  2,500,000  envelopes  a  day.  The  company  had  the  original 
contract  for  making  United-States  postal  cards,  and  finished 
and  delivered  51,000,000  in  90  days.  The  various  grades  of 
papeteries  manufactured  here  are  sold  in  great  quantities  all  over 
the  country,  being  distinguished  for  originality  of  designs  and 
uniform  excellence  of  finish.  This  company  is  also  the  largest 
manufacturer  of  toilet  papers  in  the  world,  and  has  a  score  of 
patents  therefor.  The  Morgan  and  Plympton  companies  have 
for  16  ye.ars  supplied  the  Post-Office  Department  with  all  its 
stamped  envelopes  and  wrappers,  and  the  envelopes  used  in 
official  business,  amounting  to  600,000,000  during  the  year  1890. 
One  of  the  half-century  industrial  organizations  of  Massa- 
chusetts is  the  Dennison  Manufacturing  Company,  whose  works 

^^^^^  at   Roxbury    and   elsewhere   employ  more  than    1,500  hands. 

The  business  of  making  paper  boxes  for  jewelers  was  established  in  1839,  by  A.  L.  Den- 
nison, a  Boston  jeweler,  who  had  the  boxes  made  by  hand  in  his  father's  dwelling-house 
at  Brunswick,  Maine.  This  A.  L.  Dennison  afterward  invented  the  American  watch. 
About  the  year  1844,  his  brother,  E.  W.  Dennison,  came  to  Boston,  and  became  agent  for 
the  box  business,  which  he  pushed  with  great  energy,  adding  thereto  the  manufacture  of 
jewelers'  cards,  tags,  and  other  specialties.  Now,  the  great  Roxbury  and  Brunswick  fac- 
tories are  filled  with  ingenious  machinery,  and  the  product  comprises  millions  of  boxes,  big 
and  little,  morocco  or -plush,  wood  or  paper,  for  jewels  or  humbler  uses;  shipping  and 
merchandise  tags,  of  all  sizes;  tissue-papers  of  all  colors;  jewelers'  and  absorbent  cotton; 
gummed  labels  and  gummed  paper ; 
sealing  wax ;  and  a  vast  variety  of  sta- 
tioners', apothecaries',  jewelers',  and 
household  sundries.  One  product  of 
this  house,  known  in  every  hamlet  in 
the  country,  and  almost  the  world  over, 
is  the  ' '  Dennison  Tag. "  This  house  was 
and  is  the  original  and  chief  producer  of 
the  tags  so  generally  used.  The  plants 
of  this  great  corporation  are  now  valued 
at  upwards  of  $  1,000,000,  and  the  pro-  BOSTON  (ROXBURY)  :  DENNISON  MANUFACTURING  co. 


SPRINGFIELD  : 
MORGAN  ENVELOPE  CO. 


392 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE    UNITED   STATES. 


SOUTH    BOSTON  AND    BOSTON    HIGHLANDS  : 
THE   WHITTIER    MACHINE    COMPANY. 


ducts  of  their  various  factories  are  sold  at  wholesale  and  retail  in  large  and  complete  stores, 
established  and  conducted  by  themselves,  in  Boston,  New  York,  Philadelphia,  Chicago, 
Cincinnati,  and  St.  Louis. 

Although  hoisting-machinery  has  been  in  common  use  during  the  last  century,  the 
high-speed  passenger-elevator  is  of  a  comparatively  recent 
date,  and  is  the  result  of  the  demand  for  rapid  transit  tot 
the  upper  stories  of  the  lofty  buildings  which  are  con-; 
structed  to  give  increased  store  and  office  room  in  the 
centres  of  our  large  cities.  Here  the  land  is  ofl 
great  and  increasing  cost,  but  it  would  be  of  far 
less  value  were  it  not  for  the  elevator  service,  which, 
lands  the  passenger  at  the  desired  point  without- 
fatigue  or  loss  of  time.  Among  the  earliest  and] 
most  prominent  manufacturers  of  passenger  and 
freight  elevators  the  Whittier  Machine  Company  of* 
Boston  holds  an  important  and  honorable  position, 
not  only  as  having  been  one  of  the  pioneers  in  the  business,  but  as  having  kept  in  the  front 
rank  of  progress  in  the  design,  and  construction  of  the  safest  and  most  efficient  forms  of 
apparatus.  The  foundation  of 'their  business  was  laid  in  1839,  when  Campbell,  Whittier 
&  Co.  began  their  iron-working  industry  in  Roxbury.  The  company  now  has  two  large 
plants,  one  at  Roxbury  and  one  at  South  Boston,  employing  50x3  men.  In  addition  to  the 
elevator  branch  of  their  business,  they  manufacture  steam-boilers,  boiler-plate  work,  and 
general  machinery,  and  the  "Gaunt  Evaporators,"  for  use  on  sugar-plantations  and  in  pulp- 
mills,  and  wherever  an  effective  method  of  economically  evaporating  large  quantities  of 
liquid  is  desired.  The  Whittier  elevators  are  used  in  Boston  in  the  new  Exchange  Build- 
ing, the  Massachusetts-Hospital  Life  Building,  on  State  Street,  the  Adams  Building,  on 
Court  Street,  the  American  Bell  Telephone  Building,  on  Milk  Street,  and  other  structures; 
in  New  York,  in  Tiffany's,  on  Union  Square,  the  Hemenway  Estate,  on  Broadway,  and  the 
Welles  Building,  on  Broadway ;  in  Philadelphia,  by  William  G.  Warden  and  others ;  in 
Baltimore,  by  the  Chesapeake  &  Potomac  Telephone  and  Telegraph  Company ;  in  Wash- 
ington, in  the  Pension  Building,  Gen.  Henry  Strong's  building,  and  the  Pacific  Building ; 
in  the  De  Soto  Hotel,  at  Savannah;  the  Endicott  Building,  at  St.  Paul  (Minn.);  the  Kit- 
tredge  Building,  at  Denver  (Col.);  and  in  a  great  number  of  other  structures  erected  by  the 
largest  capitalists  and  the  first  architects  of  the  country. 

The  origin  of  the  business  of  the  Walworth  Manufacturing  Company  was  due  to  the 
conviction  that  in  this  climate  there  was  need  of  a  better  method  of  warming  and  ventilat- 
ing buildings,  involving  the  use  and  construction  of  suitable  steam  and  hot-water  apparatus. 
This  house  originated  the  method  of  warming  buildings  by  the  use  of  wrought-iron  tubes, 
the  manufacture  and  use  of  malleable-iron  steam  and  gas  fittings,  cast-iron  steam  fittings, 
globe  valves,  Walworth  tapping  machines,  Walworth  die-plates,  Stillson  wrenches,  Stan- 
wood  pipe-cutters,  Walworth  sprinkler  heads,  and  cylindrical  horizontal  tubular  boilers: 
and  originally  introduced  in  this  country  the  system  of  mechanical  ventilation  by  the  use 
fans.  James  J.  Walworth  and  Joseph  Nason, 
comprising  the  firm  of  Walworth  &  Nason,  were 
the  founders  of  steam-fitting  by  the  modern 
methods,  and  the  great  variety  of  kindred  uses  of 
steam  in  the  arts  and  manufacturing  industries, 
not  only  in  this  country  but  in  the  world.  This 
firm  commenced  business  in  New  York  in  1841, 
and  a  year  later  in  Boston.  During  the  first  four 
years  there  was  no  other  person  or  firm  in  this 
business  in  the  world.  In  Boston  the  successors  SOUTH  BOSTON  :  WALWORTH  MANUFACTURING  co. 


THE  STATE   OF  MASSACHUSETTS. 


393 


CAMBRIDGE  :    THE   GEORGE    F.    BLAKE    M'F'G   CO. 


of  Wai  worth  &  Nason  have  been  J.  J.  Walworth  &  Co.  until  1871,  and  the  present  cor- 
poration since  that  date.  J.  J.  Walworth,  who  established  the  business,  is  the  oldest  man 
in  the  business,  and  he  and  his  brother,  C.  C.  Walworth,  the  vice-president  and  general 
manager,  are  still  in  vigorous  health,  and  at  the  head  of  the  corporation.  The  Walworth 
valves  and  tools  find  a  ready  sale,  not  only  in  this  country  but  in  England,  Germany  and 
other  parts  of  Europe,  and  also  in  Mexico,  South  America,  and  Australia.  The  Walworth 
plant  at  South  Boston  covers  ten  acres,  with  iron  and  brass  foundries,  machine  and  forge 
shops,  and  wharves  on  tide-water,  and  employs  600  men,  besides  150  in  the  warehouse, 
salesrooms  and  offices  in  Boston. 

Water-works  for  the  public  service  are  in  use  in  scores  of  Massachusetts  cities  and 
towns,  greatly  to  the  comfort  of  the  people.  In 
1800  there  were  but  eight  public  water- works  in 
the  Union,  including  those  at  Salem  (founded  in 
1796),  Worcester  (1798),  and  Peabody  (1799). 
At  present,  nearly  2,000  cities  and  towns  in  Amer- 
ica have  public  water-works.  The  water-supply 
of  Boston  is  drawn  from  Lake  Cochituate,  the 
Sudbury  River,  and  Mystic  Lake.  The  works 
were  begun  in  1845,  and  have  cost  upwards  of 
$  20,  ooo,  ooo.  They  supply  upwards  of  40,  OCX),  ooo 
gallons  daily.  A  remarkable  feature  of  the  aqueduct  is  the  famous  Echo  Bridge,  built  in 
1876-7,  at  Newton  Upper  Falls,  where  the  limpid  stream  is  carried  across  Charles  River 
on  a  noble  granite  structure,  500  feet  long.  Its  main  arch  is  130  feet  in  span,  51  feet 
above  the  river.  There  is  but  one  larger  arch  in  America.  One  of  the  chief  sources  of 
supply  for  the  water- works  machinery  thus  called  into  service  is  the  George  F.  Blake  Manu- 
facturing Company  of  Boston,  employing  650  operatives  in  making  a  great  variety  of 
ingenious  and  powerful  pumps,  compound,  high-pressure,  vertical,  horizontal,  and  other 
forms,  calculated  for  every  variety  of  demand.  A  book  is  published  by  the  company,  with 
pictures  of  these  beneficent  engines,  and  elementary  features  of  general  practice  in  water- 
works. Here  also  are  made  the  well-known  Blake  steam-pumps,  in  scores  of  forms,  for 
brewers,  distillers,  bleachers,  soap-makers,'  tanners,  oil-refiners,  wreckers,  miners,  for  sugar- 
houses,  quarries,  plantations,  locomotives,  artesian  wells,  irrigation,  gas-works,  oil  lines, 
air-supply,  and  many  other  practical  purposes.  The  George  F.  Blake  Company's  works 
are  at  Cambridge,  and  were  built  in  1889,  an(^  are  thoroughly  equipped  and  admirably 
managed  expressly  for  this  business. 

Many  of  the  most  important  bridges  on  the  leading  New-England  railroad  routes  have 
been  built  by  the  Boston  Bridge  Works,  founded  in  1876,  by  D.  H.  Andrews.  The  shops 
at  East  Cambridge  cover  three  acres,  and  employ  300  men,  making  railway  and  highway 
bridges,  locomotive  turn-tables,  travelling  cranes,  roof  trusses,  and  other  heavy  wrought- 
iron  or  steel  structural  work.  Their  work  is  distinguished  not  only  for  excellence  of  work- 
manship and  material,  but  also  for  engineering  features,  their  reputation  in  all  these  partic- 
ulars not  being  surpassed  in  America.  Among  the  notable  works  of  this  company  are 
the  Salmon-Falls  and  Sugar-River  bridges,  in  New  Hampshire  ;  the  New- York  &  New- 
England  Railway  bridge  across  the  Connecticut 
River,  at  Hartford ;  and  the  handsome  Harvard 
Bridge,  joining  Cambridge  and  Boston.  The 
heavy  girder-spans  of  the  latter  were  floated  from 
the  wharf  on  pontoons  to  their  places,  and  then 
carefully  lowered  into  their  positions  on  the  top 
of  the  piers  by  means  of  valves  in  the  pon- 
toons. All  the  above  bridges  were  designed  as 
GE  WORKS.  well  as  built  by  the  Boston  Bridge  Works, 


TURNER'S    FALLS  I    JOHN    RUSSELL   CUTLERY    CO. 


394  KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

except  the  Harvard  Bridge,  which  was  designed  by  the 
City  Engineer  of  Boston. 

Observers  of  the  cutlery  trade  state  that  the  Ameri- 
can sales  abroad  are  increasing  steadily,  while  the  busi- 
ness of  the  English  firms  is  continually  dropping  off. 
Among  the  great   New-England    cutlers 
who  have  thus  broken  the  monopoly  of 
England's     steel     centres,     none    stands 
higher   than   the    John    Russell    Cutlery 
Company,  founded  at  Deerfield,  in  1834, 
by  John  Russell,  who  determined  to  make 
the  classes  of  goods  of  which  Sheffield 
had  held  monopoly  for  centuries.     These 
immense  works  are  at  Turner's  Falls,  on 
the  Connecticut   River,   and  are  said  to  j 
have  cost  over  a  million  dollars.     They 
cover   six  acres  of  floor  space,    wherein 
650  men  are  kept  at  work  making  table 
and  pocket  cutlery,  to  the  number  of  over 
5,000,000  pieces  yearly.    The  yearly  con- 
sumption of  steel  is  500  tons,  with  250  tons  of  cocobola  and  granadilla  woods,  ebony  and 
ivory,  stag-horn  and  bone.      This  is  the  oldest  and  largest  American  house  making  table- 
cutlery,  and  has  practically  no  rivals  in  its  fine  pearl,  ivory,  plated,  and  other  fine  cutlery  • 
knives  for  hunters  and  butchers,  painters  and  druggists ;  and  Barlow's  and  other  pocket-   I 
knives.      The  3,500  distinct  varieties  of   articles  made  here  include  also  a  vast  number  of  3 
silver-plated  spoons  and  forks.     The  -John  Russell"  goods  are  made  to  meet  the  require- 
ments  of  the  most  fastidious  tastes. 

The  old-fashioned  drill   for  metal  was  made  by  simply  pointing  a  flat  piece  of  steel  of 

the  required    size.     Later,    the   points  of  such    

drills  were  slightly  twisted.  These  drills  did 
not,  however,  have  a  satisfactory  cutting  edge,  ' 
and  were  not  at  all  accurate  as  to  size.  By  the 
invention  of  the  Morse  Straight  Lip  Increase 
Twist  Drill,  made  from  a  round  piece  of  steel 
turned  to  the  size  desired,  and  having  the  twist 
or  groove  cut  out  of  the  solid  stock,  these  difficul- 
ties were  overcome,  Thus  in  1864  was  started  NEW  BEDFORD:  MORSE  TWIST  DRILL  ANJ  MACHINE  co. 
at  New  Bedford,  by  the  Morse  Twist  Drill  and  Machine  Company,  a  new  industry,  the 
products  of  which  are  now  universally  used,  and  are  indispensable  in  all  metal-workers 
shops.  This  company  has  a  capital  stock  of  $600,000,  and  employs  250  hands.  It  pos- 
sesses a  large  and  thoroughly  equipped  plant,  where  are  manufactured  with  great  accu- 
racy and  precision  drills  varying  in  size  from  a  cambric  needle  to  four  and  a  half  inches  in 
diameter.  In  addition  to  drills  for  use  in  steel,  iron,  brass,  and  wood,  they  make  chucks, 
reamers,  taps,  dies,  and  other  kindred  tools.  These  products  are  distributed  throughout  the 

world;  and  regular  agencies  are  maintained  in 
Australia  and  Great  Britain,  and  on  the  continent 
of  Europe. 

In  a  pleasant  suburb  of  Worcester  are  the  two 
separate   works  of  the  Coes  Wrench  Company,  a 
well-known  concern  devoted  to  the  manufacture  of 
knife-handle  wrenches,  under  valuable  recent  pat- 
BOSTON  :  MUSEUM  OF  FINE  ARTS.  ents.      They  are  of   case-hardened  wrought-iron, 


THE  STATE   OF  MASSACHUSETTS.  395 

with  handles  of  southern  dog- wood  or  persimmon,  making  a 
very  handy,  strong,  and  powerful  tool  for  general  use.      The 
business  was  founded  in  1841,  by  the  brothers,  Loring  Goes 
and  A.  G.  Goes,  who  received  their  first  patent  on  wrenches 
in  that  year.      In  1888  the  Goes  Wrench  Com- 
pany  was    formed,    under   the   presidency  of 
Loring  Goes.     The   works   now  employ   100 
men,  and  make  daily  more  than  1 , 500  wrenches, 
which  are    sent  all  over  the  world,    and  are 
recognized  by  the  trade  as  the  highest  grade 
made   anywhere.      Loring   Goes   &   Co.    also 
manufacture  a  great  number  of  shear-blades 
and  knives,  at  separate  works,  near  the  wrench  factories. 

A  great  industry  which  has  made  Taunton  famous  everywhere  is  that  of  the  Albert  Field 
Tack  Company,  which  makes  its  sales  under  the  title  of  A.  Field  &  Sons,  and  is  the  oldest 
and  largest  and  finest  tack-works  in  America.  This  business  was  begun  in  1827,  by  Albert 
Field,  with  a  single  machine,  whose  product  he  himself  used  to  carry  up  to  Boston  for  sale. 
In  1855  he  admitted  his  sons  to  partnership,  which,  in  1869,  became  a  corporation,  with 
$250,000  capital.  The  plant  includes  a  long  range  of  brick  buildings,  with  hundreds  of  ingen- 
ious machines  for  making  tacks,  saddle-nails,  wire-nails,  eyelets,  glaziers'  points,  and  shoe- 
tips,  varying  from  six-inch  wire-nails  down  to  copper  tacks  4,000  to  the  ounce.  They  use 
15  tons  of  metal,  and  make  60,000,000  pieces  daily,  being  by  far  the  largest  output  in  Amer- 
ica. Immense  exportations  are  made  to 
Australia  and  Africa,  as  well  as  Europe 
and  Asia,  and  to  the  company's  ware- 
houses at  New  York,  Philadelphia,  Balti- 
more, Chicago,  and  San  Francisco..  There 
are  400  people  engaged  here,  making  tacks 
for  card-clothing  and  carpets,  for  saddles 
and  shoes,  for  pictures  and  mirrors,  for 
trunks  and  pails,  for  gimp  and  lace,  for 
slating  and  roofing,  for  upholstering  and 
tufting,  for  miners  and  glaziers,  and  every  other  conceivable  purpose  for  which  tacks  and 
small  nails  are  used.  They  are  made  of  copper,  Swedes  iron,  brass,  zinc  and  tinned  iron. 
The  largest  chair-manufacturing  concern  in  the  world  is  Heywood  Bros.  &  Co.,  of  Gard- 
ner, which  was  founded  in  1826,  by  four  brothers,  Levi,  Walter,  Benjamin  F.,  and  William 
Heywood.  The  little  frame  building  then  erected,  and  provided  with  a  slender  water-power, 
has  developed  into  a  mighty  industry,  covering  15  acres  of  ground  and  20  acres  of  floor- 
space,  employing  2,000  persons,  and  making  more  than  a  million  chairs  a  year,  of  cane  and 
wood,  reed  and  rattan.  They  have  factories  at  Gardner,  Chicago,  San  Francisco,  Los 
Angeles  and  Portland  (Oregon),  and  great  warehouses  in  New  York,  Boston,  Philadelphia, 
and  Baltimore,  as  well  as  at  the  above-named  points  on  the  Pacific  Coast.  Its  products  are 
exported  to  all  parts  of  the  world,  and  include  every  imaginable  variety  of  modern  chairs. 

The  Heywoods  are  not  only  the  largest  man- 
ufacturers of  chairs,  but  they  are  also  the 
leading  house  of  the  whole  country  in  three 
other  important  industries,  children's  car- 
riages, rattan  and  reed  furniture  and  cane,  the 
furniture  and  carriages  being  made  in  an 
endless  variety  and  enormous  quantity.  The 
modest  quietness  with  which  the  Heywoods 
GARDNER  :  HEYWOOD  BROS.  &  c<  have  conducted  their  business  would  never 


TAUNTON  :    ALBERT    FIELD   TACK    CO. 


LOWELL  I    LAMSON    CONSOLIDATED    STORE   SERVICE   CO. 


396  KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 

lead  outsiders  to  suppose  their  plant  was 
worth  millions  of  dollars,  and  that  their 
yearly  product  reached  several  millions  in 
value. 

The  business  of  cash-carrying  apparatus 
was  originated  by  William  S.  Lamson,  of 
Lowell,  who  first  conceived  the  idea  of 
transferring  cash  and  parcels  by  mechanical 
means,  and  doing  away  with  cash  boys.  This  apparatus  was  put  into  his  own  stores  in 
Lowell.  In  1881  the  apparatus  was  improved  and  put  upon  the  market,  the  "Cash  Sys- 
tems" (as  they  are  called)  being  leased  to  merchants.  The  Lamson  Cash  Carrier  Com- 
pany, formed  in  1 88 1,  was  merged  in  1883  into  the  Lamson  Cash  Railway  Company,  with 
a  capital  of  $1,000,000.  In  1888  the  Lamson  Consolidated  Store  Service  Company  was 
formed,  with  a  capital  of  $4,000,000.  The  devices  put  out  by  these  companies  were  rap- 
idly introduced  throughout  the  country,  as  they  effected  great  savings  in  time,  and  proved 
to  be  a  great  convenience  and  a  very  satisfactory  method  of  handling  cash  and  parcels.  At 
this  time  over  3,000  merchants  are  using  the  different  systems  for  cash  and  parcel  carrying 
manufactured  by  this  company.  Several  competitors  have  arisen,  but  those  that  have 
proved  to  have  devices  of  value  have  been  absorbed  by  the  Lamson  Company,  which  has 
also  improved  constantly  its  own  apparatus.  The  company  also  manufactures  cash-regis- 
ters, used  for  the  better  protection  of  mer- 
chants by  indicating  publicly  all  cash  re- 
ceipts. The  works  in  Lowell  consist  of 
two  large  factories  and  other  buildings, 
occupying  three  acres.  The  company  also 
has  a  factory  in  New  York,  and  agencies 
and  repair  shops  in  many  cities. 

Among  the  manufacturers  of  Massa- 
chusetts whose  products  merit  special 
mention  is  the  Putnam  Nail  Company, 
whose  horse-nail  factory,  situated  on  the 
banks  of  the  Neponset  River,  in  Boston, 
covers  a  space  of  ten  acres,  and  furnishes  employment  for  400  people.  They  produce  a 
horse-nail  which  is  unique,  in  that  it  is  hot-forged  directly  from  Swedish  iron  rods  in  a 
shape  perfectly  adapted  for  use  in  fastening  on  horse-shoes.  This  process  is  specially 
commendable  because  it  completely  obviates  the  possibility  of  splitting  when  driven,  which 
is  characteristic  of  other  nails.  This  concern  is  the  pioneer  in  the  line  of  machine-made 
horse-nails,  and  is  the  only  one  which  manufactures  a  hot-forged  nail.  All  other  nails 
are  made  by  the  cold-rolling  and  clipping  process,  and  are  oftentimes  dangerous  to  the 
horse  in  whose  feet  they  are  driven.  At  the  Centennial  Exposition  in  Philadelphia,  the 
Putnam  hot-forged"  nail  received  the  highest  award ;  and  the  verdict  of  popular  opinion 
has  been  growing  more  and  more  strong  in  its 
favor  ever  since.  The  Putnam  Nail  Company 
was  incorporated  in  1877,  and  has  a  capital 
of  $300,000,  besides  large  reserves,  and  a  busi- 
ness extending  throughout  the  Union,  and 
also  to  England,  Australia,  China,  and  other 
foreign  countries.  Its  product  exceeds  the  united 
output  of  any  other  three  companies,  and  equals 
2,500  tons  a  year,  in  35  styles  and  sizes.  The 
business  was  founded  in  1859,  anc^  supplied  the 
cavalry  horses  in  the  war  of  1861-5. 


NORTHAMPTON  \    BELDING  BROS.    &  CO. 'S  SILK-MILL 


BOSTON  (NEPONSET)  :  PUTNAM  NAIL  WORKS. 


THE  STATE   OF  MASSACHUSETTS. 


397 


EAST  BOSTON  :  BOSTON  &  LOCKPORT  BLOCK  CO. 


The  proper  making  of  tackle-blocks,  so  that 
they  shall  be  strong,  durable,  and  adapted  to 
their  uses,  is  a  department  of  work  in  which 
skilful  Bay- State  workmen  have  achieved  unusual 
success.  The  chief  establishment  in  this  line  in 
America  is  the  Boston  and  Lockport  Block  Com- 
pany, whose  factories  are  at  East  Boston  (Mass.) 
and  Lockport  (N.  Y.).  Here  is  made  the  vast 
majority  of  all  the  tackle-blocks  used  in  this 
country.  Many  of  these  are  covered  by  special 
patents.  The  self-adjusting  five-roller  bushed 
tackle-blocks,  for  durability  and  for  ease  of  hoisting  excel  everything  in  this  line,  and 
received  a  gold  medal  from  the  Massachusetts  Charitable  Mechanic  Association,  in  1890. 
The  Batts  Patent  Differential  Hoist,  by  means  of  which  one  man  can  hoist  full  capacity 
even  up  to  ten  thousand  pounds,  is  probably  the  simplest  and  most  durable  hoist  in  the 
market,  and  is  used  by  bridge-builders,  machine-shops,  and  others.  This,  too,  was 
awarded  a  gold-medal  by  the  Mechanic  Association.  Their  Metaline  Bushed  Block 
is  self-lubricating,  and  was  the  first  of  its  kind  ever  introduced  to  the  public  (by  this  firm, 
in  1876).  The  tackle-blocks  made  by  this  company  are  sold  over  a  wide  territory,  not  only 
throughout  this  country,  but  many  foreign  countries.  Their  uses  are  unlimited  for  all  hoist- 
ing purposes.  The  Boston  &  Lockport  Company  was  incorporated  in  1887,  with  a  paid-in 
capital  of  $300,000,  and  was  a  consolidation  of  the  Bagnall  &  Loud  Block  Company  of  Bos- 
ton (established  in  1840)  and  the-Penfield  Block  Co.,  of 
Lockport  (N.  Y.).  The  success  of  this  establishment 
has  been  due  mainly  to  its  superior  quality  of  goods, 
with  thoroughly  trustworthy  workmanship.  The  five- 
pointed  star,  which  is  the  patented  trade-mark,  is  always 
indicative  of  the  best  grades. 

Massachusetts  holds  the  supremacy  in  brush  making  ; 
and  the  most  complete  brush-factory  in  the  world  is  that 
of  John  L.  Whiting  &  Son,  in  Boston.  It  is  near  the 
site  of  old  Fort  Hill,'  and  is  a  large  handsome  brick 
building,  with  an  acre  and  a  half  of  floor  space,  espe- 
cially erected  by  this  firm  in  1884,  for  its  own  business, 
which  has  been  a  marked  success  from  its  founding  in  1864.  The  notable  features  of 
this  business  are  the  number  and  variety  of  new  machines  and  original  processes  introduced 
by  the  Whitings,  and  the  large  corps  of  skilled  brush-makers  employed,  ensuring  an  excel- 
lent uniformity  of  product,  and  a  vast  output,  besides  an  absolute  reduction  in  the  prices 
of  staple  brushes.  There  are  500  men  engaged  in  these  works ;  and  the  product  includes 
an  immense  variety  of  brushes  for  painters,  varnishers,  and  white-washers,  besides  finer 
articles  for  artists,  and  many  for  household  use.  The  Whiting  products  are  sent  to  all 
parts  of  the  Union,  and  also  to  various  foreign  countries,  wherever  brushes  are  used. 

Asbestos  is  a  mineral  of  many  uses.  It  is  indestructible 
by  any  degree  of  heat  or  any  ordinary  acids ;  hence,  for  fire- 
proofing  and  non-conducting  it  is  invaluable.  It  is  a  spe- 
cies of  rock,  usually  found  in  connection  with  serpentine,  but 
it  possesses  fibres  and  textures  as  delicate  as  silk.  Until 
the  discovery  of  mines  at  Thetford,  in  Canada,  and  their 
succcessful  working  by  modern  machinery  by  the  Asbestos 
Packing  Company  of  Boston,  the  chief  supply  came  from 
the  mountains  in  Italy.  While  there  is  found  an  abund- 
ance of  poor  grades,  the  Canadian  mines  are  the  main 
source  of  the  best  qualities.  Early  in  this  century  asbestos 


BOSTON  :   JOHN    U    WHITING   &   SON. 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


SOUTHBOROUGH  :     ST.     MARK'S    SCHOOL. 


came  to  be  utilized,  and  since  then  many  patents 
have  been  granted  for  peculiar  forms,  special  uses, 
and  machinery  and  tools  for  its  manufacture.  The 
Asbestos  Packing  Company  was  the  pioneer  manu- 
facturer in  the  United  States  of  asbestos  packing, 
now  in  extensive  use,  and  invaluable  where  super- 
heated steam  or  acids  are  used.  Asbestos  goods 
include  rope,  wick,  and  sheet-packing ;  refined  fibre; 
mill  board,  in  rolls  and  sheets ;  gaskets,  cloth,  tape, 
rings,  print-roller  cord,  twine,  tubes,  sheathing, 
wire-board,  roofing,  cement,  felting,  stove-linings,  and  furnace,  retort  and  stove  cements. 
The  main  uses  of  asbestos  are  for  steam-packing,  covering  steam  boilers  and  heated  pipes, 
sheathing  walls,  lining  floors,  and  covering  roofs.  By  its  use  destruction  by  fire  is  averted 
and  transmission  of  noises  prevented.  It  is  of  exceeding  value  as  a  non-conductor  of  elec- 
tricity. The  technical  treatment  of  asbestos  has  reached  its  highest  development  by  the 
Asbestos  Packing  Company  and  its  closely  allied- concerns,  whose  chief  factory  is  at  Charles- 
town,  and  whose  main  offices  are  in  Boston,  with  branches  in  New  York,  Philadelphia, 
Chicago,  and  London.  The  business  of  supplying  this  valuable  mineral  is  conducted  here 
with  scientific  skill  and  ability,  and  has  built  up  a  large  and  interesting  industry. 

Throughout  all  New  England  the  name  of  "Jordan-Marsh"  is  a  sort  of  magic  talisman 
to  people  of  all  classes,  calling  up  visions  of  one  of  the  greatest  departmental  stores  in  the 
world,  bright  with  silks  and  ribbons,  dainty  with  fine  laces  and  embroideries,  and  rich  in 
all  manner  of  house-furnishings,  and  coverings  for 
head  and  feet  and  body.  Eben  D.  Jordan  and  the 
lateB.  L.  Marsh,  founded  this  establishment,  in  1841, 
in  an  obscure  part  of  Boston ;  and  in  the  intervening 
period  the  business  has  increased,  year  by  year,  until 
it  now  reaches  $18,000,000  annually,  and  occupies  one 
of  the  largest  and  handsomest  series  of  buildings  on 
Washington  Street,  the  main  thoroughfare  of  Boston. 
Jordan,  Marsh  &  Co.  began  their  career  as  a  dry- 
goods  house,  and  the  bulk  of  the  trade  still  remains 
in  that  line ;  but  scores  of  other  departments  have 
been  added,  until  now  their  establishment,  covering 
several  broad  stories,  and  ten  acres  of  flooring,  and 
with  entrances  on  three  streets,  is  a  veritable  bazaar 
of  hundreds  of  lines  of  goods,  visited  by  myriads  of  purchasers  every  day,  and  conducting 
also  a  large  business  by  mail,  and  an  important  wholesale  trade.  Jordan,  Marsh  &  Co. 
employ  2,800  people  in  their  buildings;  and  have  a  large  corps  of  travelling  salesmen,  and 
an  army  of  working  people  manufacturing  expressly  for  them. 

The  first  settlers  along  the  Atlantic  shores  wore  the  pictur- 
esque garments  common  in  the  England  of  their  period  :  the 
short  cloak  and  doublet,  plaited  ruffs  or  falling  collar,  long  silk 
stockings  and  heavy  boots,  with  high  felt  hats  for  out-door  use, 
and  velvet  skull-caps  for  home  wear.  About  the  middle  of  the 
last  century  the  gentry  of  the  province  wore  cocked  hats,  wigs, 
and  red  cloaks,  and  in  winter  buckram-lined  round  coats  coming 
down  to  the  knees.  These  in  turn  gave  way  to  the  embroid- 
ered satins  and  velvets,  gold-lacings  and  jeweled  garments  of  our 
ancestors,  shown  in  Copley's  portraits.  The  manufacture  of  cloth- 
ing, now  one  of  the  great  industries  of  Massachusetts,  is  con- 
BOSTO^MACULLAR.PARKERACO.  ducted  by  nearly  6oo  establishments,  employing  5,000  men  and 


BOSTON  I     JORDAN,    MARSH    &    CO. 


16, 


THE  STATE   OF  MASSACHUSETTS. 


399 

ooo  women,  with  an  annual  wage-account  of  $6,000,000,  and  an  annual  product  of 
$28,600,000.  Macullar,  Parker  &  Company  is  an  ideal  house  in  making  and  selling  cloth- 
ing for  men  and  boys,  and  occupies  admirably  arranged  buildings  in  the  chief  retail  quar- 
ter of  Boston,  facing  on  398  and  400  Washington  Street,  with  a  handsome  classic  fa9ade  of 
white  marble.  In  the  six  stories  of  this  edifice,  and  also  the  building  adjoining,  and  the 
similar  one  back  of  it,  covering  two  acres  of  flooring,  600  persons  are  kept  busy,  making 
fine  grades  of  clothing,  out  of  the  best  materials,  and  in  the  most  thorough  manner.  This 
famous  concern,  one  of  the  best-known  in  Massachusetts,  was  founded  in  Worcester,  in 
1849,  and  moved  to  Boston  in  1852.  It  has  a  prosperous  branch  in  Providence,  and  offi- 
ces at  New  York,  Chicago,  and  London ;  and  besides  its  vast  output  of  ready-made  cloth- 
ing, it  has  large  custom  and  wholesale  cloth  departments. 

The  most  interesting  and  important  carpet-warehouse  in 
this  part  of  the  country  is  that  of  John  H.  Pray,  Sons  &  Co. , 
of  Boston,  founded  in  the  year  1817,  and 
now  doing  a  business  of  $3,000,000  a  year. 
Their  great  six-story  building  has  on  the 
ground-floor,  upholstery  and  Oriental  and 
Persian  rugs ;  on  the  second,  the  carpet 
sales-rooms,  and  exhibition-rooms  for  Au- 
bussons,  Axminsters,  and  Wiltons  ;  the  third, 
fourth  and  fifth  floors  are  for  storing,  and 
wholesaling;  and  the  sixth  for  cutting  and 
sewing  carpets.  From  this  wonderful  stock 
were  obtained  the  carpets  for  Trinity  Church,  the  Algonquin  Club,  the  United-States 
Treasury  building  at  Washington,  and  many  pther  great  edifices,  besides  thousands  on  thou- 
sands of  American  homes.  There  are  300  persons  in  the  employ  of  the  company,  whose  Bos- 
ton store  alone  covers  2\  acres.  The  standard  American  carpets  of  the  Lowell  Carpet 
Company  are  sold  here  in  immense  quantities,  while  another  class  of  needs  is  satisfied  by 
the  company's  importations  of  China  matting  from  Hong  Kong  and  Canton,  amounting  to 
15,000  rolls  yearly. 

Over  half  a  century  ago,  in  1840,  Oliver  Ditson  founded  the  music-publishing  business 
which  now  bears  his  name.  In  1845  John  C.  Haynes  came,  fresh  from  school,  to  be  the 
store-boy,  rising  twelve  years  later  to  partnership.  Mr.  Ditson  died  in  1888,  after  which 
the  Oliver  Ditson  Company  of  Boston  was  incorporated.  From  insignificant  beginnings 
this  business  has  extended  mightily,  until  now  it  publishes  more  than  75,000  pieces  of  sheet 
music,  2,200  musical  books,  a  large  number  of  biographies  of  musicians,  and  a  variety  of 
kindred  works.  They  have  bought  out  the  catalogues  of  many  of  the  fore- 
most competing  houses,  and  for  many  years  have  stood  far  in  the  lead  of 
the  music-publishing  business  of  America.  The  affiliated  house  of  John  C. 
Haynes  &  Co.  (in  Boston)  is  chiefly  devoted  to  the  sale  of  musical  instru- 
ments, in  two  stores,  carried  on  by  them  ;  and  has  a  large  manufactory  for 
making  guitars,  banjos,  and  mandolins.  The  corporation  has  prosperous 
branch-houses  —  complete  establishments  in  themselves  —  in  New  York  and 
Philadelphia,  and  has  close  connections  with  Lyon  &  Healy,  the  great  Chi- 
cago music-house.  The  Ditson  establishment  has  been  an  important  helper 
in  the  advance  of  musical  culture,  having  published  important  operas  and 
oratorios  by  home  composers.  They  brought  out  the  first  American  editions 
of  Mendelssohn's  Songs  without  Words,  and  Beethoven's  Sonatas.  Rich- 
ardson's New  Method  for  the  Piano-Forte  was  published  by  this  house  in 
1858,  and  nearly  half  a  million  copies  have  already  been  sold. 

An  important  agency  in  building  operations  throughout  this  region  is 
the  making  of  brick,  for  so  many  years  the  favorite  material  for  substan-      OLIVE^DITSON  co. 


%"f  1  P-  ri 

'Dliyi 


400 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED  STATES. 


tial  structures.  The  New-England  Anderson 
Pressed  Brick  Company  was  organized  in  1886, 
for  the  purpose  of  manufacturing  plain,  shape 
and  ornamental  pressed  brick,  under  a  license 
from  J.  C.  Anderson  (the  patentee),  "for  all  the 
New-England  States,  except  Connecticut. "  Their 
works  are  on  the  Medford  branch  of  the  Boston 
&  Maine  Railroad,  three  miles  from  Boston,  and 
cover  several  acres.  They  manufacture  all  the 
various  grades  of  fine  pressed  brick,  for  which  GLENWOOD:  NEW-ENGLAND  ANDERSON  PRESSED  BRICK  co. 
the  Anderson  system  is  so  widely  celebrated,  and  some  of  the  best  buildings  erected  in  New 
England  during  the  past  three  years  have  been  constructed  or  ornamented  with  these  brick, 
including  prominent  edifices  in  nearly  100  cities  and  towns  of  New  England  and  the  Prov- 
inces. This  is  one  of  the  three  great  Anderson  Pressed  Brick  Works,  the  others  being 
at  New  York  and  Chicago,  and  the  reputation  of  their  product  is  known  in  Europe  and 
throughout  this  country.  The  processes  are  described  in  the  Illinois  chapter. 

The  placing  of  all  kinds  of  furnishings  in  the  homes  of  the  people  keeps  many  large 
establishments  busy  from  one  year's  end  to  the  other. 
One  of  the  most  interesting  in  its  methods  is  that  of  B.  A. 
Atkinson  &  Co.,  who  sell  vast  quantities  of  furniture  on 
the  easy  payment  or  instalment  system.  Their  stores 
cover  over  25  acres  of  floor-space,  and  are  the  largest 
and  best-arranged  in  their  line  in  America.  They  employ 
350  persons,  80  horses,  and  44  delivery- wagons;  and 
have  1 5  branches,  in  as  many  New-England  cities.  The 
concerns  are  worth  above  $  1 , 500,  ooo,  and  their  sales  reach 
over  $2, 500,  ooo  a  year.  Mr.  Atkinson  began  life  as  a 
sailor-boy ;  and  at  the  age  of  16  he  founded  the  present  business,  which  he  has  built  up 
and  still  controls.  There  is  hardly  an  article  used  in  housekeeping,  from  carpets  and  mat- 
tresses to  crockery  and  glassware,  through  all  grades  and  classes  of  furniture,  that  is  not 
kept  in  stock  in  this  great  bazaar. 

The  Bradley  Fertilizer  Company  was  established  in  1 86 1,  by  Wm.  L.  Bradley,  who  is  now 
its  President.  The  business  of  the  Bradley  Fertilizer  Company  has  steadily  increased  through 
the  genuine  merits  of  the  goods  they  have  produced,  until  to-day  they  are  the  largest  manufac- 
turers of  fertilizers  in  the  world,  and  employ  over  1,200  persons.  At  their  factories,  at  North 
Weymouth,  they  produce  a  series  of  fertilizers  prepared  from  the  finest  quality  of  raw  mater- 
ials, selected  with  especial  reference  to  their  crop-producing  powers,  and  combined  in  such 
proportions  as  the  practical  experience  of  over  a  quarter  of  a  century  has  demonstrated  are 
needed  in  order  to  produce  the  best 
results.  The  continued  use  of  their 
fertilizers  by  successful  farmers,  and 
their  largely  increasing  sales  every  sea- 
son, prove  conclusively  that  their  pro- 
ductions are  all  they  are  represented  to 
be,  and  rightly  hold  the  first  place 
among  the  many  brands  of  fertilizers. 
The  wonderful  success  of  the  Bradley 
fertilizers  is  largely  due  to  comprehen- 
sive and  exhaustive  field-tests  of  plant - 
foods  in  various  form  and  proportions 
on  the  large  farms  owned  by  the  com- 
pany and  its  stockholders.  NORTH  WEYMOUTH:  BRADLEY  FERTILIZER  WORKS. 


BOSTON  I    B.   A.  ATKINSON  &  CO. 


A  temporary  mission  was 

founded  at  the  Sault  Ste.  - 

Marie,  in  164 1, by  the  Jesuit 
|;  fathers,  Jogues  and  Raym- 

bault,  for  the  salvation  of 

the  Chippewas.      In   1668 

Father  Marquette  renewed 

the    mission ;     and    three 

years  later  he  founded  St. 

Ignace,  for  the  Hurons,  on  the  northern  shore  of  the  Straits 
of  Mackinaw,  "  the  key  and  gate  for  all  the  tribes  from  the 
south."  Within  a  few  years  this  became  a  French  military 
post,  with  a  garrison  of  200  soldiers,  and  Indian  villagers 
numbering  6,000. 

Less  enduring  fortresses  were  established  by  La  Salle, 
at  St.  Joseph,  and  by  Du  Luth,  at  the  outlet  of  Lake 
Huron.  Cadillac  and  50  French  soldiers,  in  1701,  founded 
Fort  Pontchartrain,  at  Detroit,  anticipating  Lord  Bello- 
mont's  design  to  occupy  the  place  with  British  troops.  For 
a  century  the  peninsula  was  traversed  only  by  coureurs  de 
bois  and  fur-traders,  while  the  little  farming  colony  of 
French  people  in  the  southeast  dreamed  away  its  tranquil 
and  joyous  life.  In  1760-1,  after  the  conquest  of  Canada, 
British  garrisons  occupied  Detroit,  Michilimackinac,  Sault 
St. -Marie  and  St.  Joseph.  Soon  afterwards  the  great  chief 
Pontiac  raised  the  Western  country  against  its  new  masters, 
destroying  Michilimackinac  and  other  forts  and  their  garri- 
sons, and  besieging  Detroit  for  many  weeks.  Afterwards 
Detroit  became  the  capital  of  the  vast  northwestern  terri- 
tories of  England ;  and  during  the  Revolution  Gov.  Hamil- 
ton led  Anglo-Indian  armies  thence  on  forays  far  into  Ken- 
tucky and  Virginia,  until  George  Rogers  Clark  captured 
him  at  Vincennes.  The  fortress  remained  under  British 
control  until  1796,  when,  as  a  result  of  Jay's  treaty,  Gen. 
Wayne's  troops  replaced  the  red-coat  garrison.  When  the  War  of  1812  broke  out,  Michigan 
had  a  double  frontier  imperilled,  with  the  British  on  one  side  and  the  Indians  on  the  other  ; 
and  Gen.  Brock,  with  1,300  British  troops,  compelled  the  unfortunate  Gov.  Hull  to  surrender 


Settled  at Detroit. 

Settled  in 1670 

Founded  by  ....  Frenchmen. 
Admitted  as  a  State,  .  .  .  1837 
Population,  in  1860,  .  .  .  749,113 

In  1870, 1,184,059 

In  1880, 1,636,937 

White,  ......  1,614,560 

Colored 22,337 

American -born,  .  .  .  1,248,429 
Foreign-born,  ....  388,508 

Males, 826,355 

Females, 774,582 

In  1890  (U.  S.  census),  2,093,889 
Population  to  the  square  mile,  28.5 
Voting  Population,  .  .  .  467,687 

Vote  for  Harrison  (1888),  236,387 
*  Vote  for  Cleveland  (i86»),  213,469 
Net  State  debt,  .  .  $4,148,723.68 
Assessed  Valuation  of 

Property  (1890),  .  .  $945,450,000 
Area  (square  miles),  .  .  .  58,915 
U.  S.  Representatives  (1893),  12 

Militia  (Disciplined),  .  .  .  2,434 

Counties 84 

Post-offices, 1,923 

Railroads  (miles),  ....  7,243 
Vessels,  ......  1,110 

Tonnage 276,750 

Manufactures  (yearly),  $150,692,025 

Operatives, 77,591 

Yearly  Wages,  .  .  .  $25,318,682 
Farm  Land  (in  acres),  .  13,869,221 

Farm-Land  Values,       $199,103,181 

Farm  Products  (yearly)  $91,159,858 
Public  Schools,  Average 

Daily  Attendance,  .  .  .  279,900 

Newspapers, 690 

Latitude,  .  .  .  4iQ42'  to  48°22'  N. 
Longitude,  .  .  82°86'  to  9o°3o'  W. 
Temperature,  .  .  .  —33"  to  101° 
Mean  Temperature  (Detroit),  47° 

TEN   CHIEF  CITIES  AND  THEIR  POP- 
ULATIONS  (CENSUS  OF   1890). 

Detroit, 205,876 

Grand  Rapids,       .          ...  60,278 

Saginaw,  ........  46,322 

Bay  City, 27,839 

Muskegon, 22,702 

Jackson, 20,798 

Kalamazoo, 17,853 

Port  Huron, 13,543 

Battle  Creek, 13,197 

Lansing, 13,102 


402 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


ST.     IGNACE. 


Detroit,  and  the  Territory  with  it,  while  Mackinac 
fell  into  the  hands  of  another  invading  force. 
After  Com.  Perry  captured  the  British  fleet  on 
Lake  Erie,  he  took  on  his  ships  Gen.  Harrison's 
Army  of  the  West,  which  re-won  Detroit,  and  broke 
the  hostile  power  at  the  battle  of  the  Thames. 
When  peace  came,  the  Territory  shut  out  Cana- 
dian traders,  and  Astor's  American  Fur  Company 
occupied  Mackinac.  Gov.  Cass  made  treaties 
with  the  Indians,  and  transferred  most  of  them 
beyond  the  Mississippi ;  and  in  1817  the  surveyed 
public  lands  were  offered  for  settlement.  Then  the  great  immigration  from  Ohio,  New  York 
and  New  England  set  in,  especially  after  the  opening  of  the  Erie  Canal,  in  1825.  In  1800 
the  population  was  but  500,  but  by  1830  it  had  risen  to  31,639.  When  the  steamboat 
Walk-in-the  -  Water  reached  Detroit  and  Mackinac,  in  1818-9,  the  amazed  Indians  were 
made  to  believe  that  it  was  drawn  by  teams  of  trained  sturgeons.  By  1830  daily  boats  were 
running  between  Detroit  and  Buffalo,  and  pioneers  began  to  pour  into  the  fertile  southern 
counties  in  every  direction. 

Michigan  remained  in  the  Territory  Northwest  of  the  River  Ohio  from  1787  until  1800, 
when  it  was  divided  near  the  longitude  of  Lansing,  the  eastern  part  remaining  in  the  North- 
western Territory,  and  the  rest  being  included  in  Indiana  Territory.  Two  years  later,  all 
Michigan  lay  in  Indiana;  and  in  1805  Michigan  Territory  came  into  being,  covering  the 
Lower  Peninsula,  part  of  the  Upper  Peninsula  and  strips  of  northern  Ohio  and  Indiana. 
In  1816  the  Indiana  strip  was  taken  off.  In  1818,  Michigan  spread  over  Wisconsin,  the 
Upper  Peninsula,  and  Minnesota  east  of  the  Mississippi ;  and  in  1834,  the  rest  of  Minnesota, 
Iowa,  and  Dakota  east  of  the  Missouri  and  White-Earth  Rivers  were  added  to  it.  Then 
began  the  period  of  curtailment,  and  in  1836  Michigan  was  cut  down  to  nearly  her  present 
area,  preparatory  to  assuming  Statehood  the  next  year  as  the  thirteenth  of  the  new  com- 
monwealths. The  little  strip  of  northern  Ohio,  including  Toledo  and  Maumee  Bay,  and 
covering  600  square  miles,  was  held  with  great  tenacity  by  Michigan,  and  the  militia  of  the 
two  States  prepared  to  do  battle  for  it  on  the  plains  of  Toledo.  A  compromise  was  finally 
effected  by  ceding  to  the  young  commonwealth  the  Upper  Peninsula,  in  exchange  for  the 
disputed  territory. 

The  Michigan  contingent  in  the  late  civil  war  was  90,747  men,  in  31  regiments  of 
infantry  and  eleven  of  cavalry,  companies  of  sharpshooters  and  engineers,  14  batteries,  and 
several  other  commands.  Of  these  soldiers,  4,207  were  killed  or  mortally  wounded,  and 
10,136  died  of  disease. 

The  Name  of  the  State  is  derived  from  the  Chippewa  words,  Mitchi,  "Great,"  and 
Sawgyegan,  "Lake,"  applying  to  the  fresh-water  sea  on  the  west.  The  popular  nickname 
is  THE  WOLVERINE  STATE,  on  account  of  the  great  number  of  these  animals  once  found  here. 

The  Arms  of  Michigan  bear  a  hunter,  with  the 
rising  sun  in  the  background.  Above  is  the  Latin 
word  Tuebor :  "I  will  defend,"  with  E  PLURIHUS 
UNUM  still  higher ;  and  the  motto  (given  by  Lewis 
Cass)  is  Si  QU^SRIS  PENINSULAM  AMGENAM,  CIR- 
CUMSPICE,  "If  you  seek  a  pleasant  Peninsula,  look 
around  you. "  The  crest  is  an  eagle. 

The  Governors  of  Michigan  have  been  :  Ter- 
ritorial: Wm.  Hull,  1805-13;  Lewis  Cass,  1813-8; 
Wm.Woodbridge  (acting),  1818-20,  1823-5,  1826-8; 
Jas.  Witherell  (acting),  1830 ;  John  T.  Mason  (acting), 
1830-1 ;  Stevens  T.  Mason  (acting),  1831 ;  Geo.  B. 


THE  STATE   OF  MICHIGAN. 


4°3 


MARQUETTE  :    ORE    DOCKS. 


Porter,  1831  ;  Stevens  T.  Mason  (acting),  1831-4; 
John  S.  Horner (nominal),  1835.  State:  Stevens 
T.  Mason,  1835-8;  Edward  Mundy  (acting), 
1838;  Wm.  Woodbridge,  1840-1;  Jas.  Wright 
Gordon  (acting),  1841;  John  S.  Barry,  1842-6; 
Alpheus  Felch,  1846-7;  Wm.  L.  Greenly  (acting), 
1847-8;  Epaphroditus  Ransom,  1848-9;  John  S. 
Barry,  1850-1;  Robert  McClelland,  1852-3; 
Andrew  Parsons  (acting),  1853-4;  Kinsley  S. 
Bingham,  1855-8;  Moses  Wisner,  1858-60;  Aus- 
tin Blair,  1861-5;  Henry  H.  Crapo,  1865-8  ;  Henry 

£.  Baldwin,  1869-72;   John  J.  Bagley,  1873-6;    Chas.   M.  Croswell,  1877-80;    David   H. 

Jerome,  1881-2;   Josiah  W.  Begole,  1883-4;  Russell  A.   Alger,  1885-6;  Cyrus  G.  Luce, 

f  887-90;  and  Edwin  B.  Winans,  1891-2. 

Descriptive. — Michigan  is  the  most  irregular  in  outline  of  all  the  States,  with  a  pro- 

jdigious  coast-line  on  the  Great  Lakes  and  their  bays.     It  is  made  up  of  two  peninsulas, 

/widely  different  in  characteristics,  and  separated  by  the  Straits  of  Mackinaw.  The  Lower 
Peninsula  is  larger  than  the  Upper  Peninsula,  and  forms  the  western  shores  of  Lakes  Huron, 
St.-Clair  and  Erie,  and  the  eastern  shore  of  Lake  Michigan.  The  Upper  Peninsula  lies 
between  Lakes  Huron,  Michigan  and  Superior.  The  State  is  larger  than  New  York,  Penn- 
sylvania, or  Ohio.  Lake  Huron,  270  by  160  miles  in  area,  covers  20,000  square  miles,  581 
feet  above  the  sea,  and  contains  3,000  islands.  It  has  an  average  depth  of  300  feet,  and  a 
maximum  depth  of  1, 800  feet.  Fierce  gales  often  sweep  across  the  wide  expanse  between 
Saginaw  Bay  and  Georgian  Bay ;  and  voyagers  are  out  of  sight  of  land  during  part  of  their 
transit.  Saginaw  Bay  and  Thunder  Bay  are  its  chief  American  embayments  ;  and  at  Sand 
Beach  the  Government  has  made  a  fine  harbor,  with  long  breakwaters.  Lake  Michigan  is 
the  largest  lake  wholly  in  the  United- States,  being  360  by  1 08  miles  in  area,  and  covering 
20,000  square  miles.  It  is  581  feet  above  the  sea;  and  its  greatest  depth  exceeds  900  feet. 
Green  Bay  and  its  extensions  open  away  on  the  west,  and  the  Great  and  Little  Traverse 
bays  on  the  east,  with  the  estuaries  of  many  rivers,  formed  into  artificial  harbors.  Much 
of  the  coast  is  lined  with  high  sand  dunes,  shifting  with  the  gales,  and  burying  forests  and 
fields.  There  are  daily  tides  of  i^  inch.  In  the  northern  part  of  the  lake  lie  the  Manitou 
Islands,  covering  1,000  square  miles,  and  with  1,300  inhabitants.  Beyond  these  island- 
groups,  the  lake  narrows  down  to  the  Straits  of  Mackinaw,  four  miles  across,  and  opening 
into  Lake  Huron.  Lake  Superior,  the  largest  body  of  fresh  water  in  the  world,  with  its 
area  of  360  by  140  miles,  and  its  depth  of  1, 800  feet,  covers  an  area  of  32,000  square  miles, 
between  rugged  and  irregular  coasts  of  rocks  and  sand,  1,500  miles  around.  The  French 
missionaries  likened  its  shape  to  that  of  a  bended  bow  — -  the  north  shore  being  the  arc,  the 
south  shore  the  cord,  and  Keweenaw  Point  the  arrow.  Two  hundred  small  streams  empty 
into  this  inland  sea,  and  scores  of  islands  rise  from  its  clear  waters,  627  feet  above  the  sea. 
These  noble  lakes  give  Michigan  a  coast-line  of  1,624  miles,  along  which  2,OOO-ton  vessels 
may  pass  without  going  out  of  sight  of  land.  _^  -  -  - .  .-  --  -  _  .  __  ^  _  __, 

They  constitute  one  fourth  of  the  fresh  water  on  I 
the  globe,  and  their  Michigan  shores  are  beaconed 
for  navigators  by  120  lights  and  many  fog-signals. 
Michigan  has  more  shipping  than  any  other 
Western  State.  Its  fleet  includes  400  steamboats ; 
and  the  total  tonnage  reaches  150,000.  A  large 
commerce  is  carried  on  with  the  Canadian  ports, 
as  well  as  with  the  American  lake-cities.  Detroit 
and  Port  Huron  are  the  chief  shipping-points, 
with  imports  and  exports  exceeding  $10,000,000  MACKINAC. 


404 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE    UNITED   STATES. 


MACKINAC  :    ARCH    ROCK. 


yearly.  The  State  also  has  the  most  important  fresh-water  fisheries 
in  the  Union,  employing  1,700  men,  and  producing  yearly  27,000,000 
pounds  of  fish,  valued  at  $  1, 500,000.  More  than  half  of  the  catch  is 
of  white-fish,  a  favorite  with  epicures ;  and  the  rest  includes  herring, 
salmon,  sturgeon,  pike,  pickerel,  bass,  perch,  lake-trout  and  eels. 
Scientific  care  has  been  taken  in  their  propagation  and  protection, 
and  the  fish-commissioners  have  planted  over  100,000,000  young 
fish.  Great  quantities  are  sent  east  in  winter,  frozen,  and  command 
high  prices.  The  commissioners  have  planted  in  Michigan  waters 
the  salmon  of  California,  the  land-locked  salmon  of  Maine,  and  the 
carp  of  Germany,  besides  grayling,  muscalonge  and  pickerel ;  brook, 
salmon,  California,  Loch-Leven,  Schoodic  and  German  trout ;  wall- 
eyed pike,  black  bass,  and  other  valuable  food  fish.  The  hatching- 
stations  are  at  Detroit,  Northville,  Paris,  Petoskey  and  Glenwood. 

The  chief  fishing  interests  are  in  Delta,  Mackinac  and  Schoolcraft  Counties,  in  the  Upper 
Peninsula,  and  on  the  Manitou  Islands.  Not  only  is  Michigan  bordered  by  the  three  chie 
lakes  of  America  (and  of  the  world),  but  she  also  has  within  her  borders  over  5,000  mirror- 
like  lakes  and  ponds,  covering  more  than  1,000  square  miles.  The  islands  of  Michigan  num- 
ber 179,  with  an  area  of  over  6,000  square  miles. 

Although  the  climate  abounds  in  extreme  changes, 
it  is  healthy  and  invigorating.  The  health  of  the  peo- 
ple has  improved  very  much  since  the  beginning  of  the 
century,  on  account  of  the  general  cultivation  and 
drainage  of  the  soil. 

The  Lower  Peninsula  is  277  miles  in  length, 
north  and  south,  and  259  miles  in  width,  and  has  the 
shape,  according  to  various  authorities,  of  a  bullet,  an  open  hand, 
a  horse-shoe,  or,  better  than  all,  a  mitten.  On  the  south  lie  Ohio 
and  Indiana ;  on  the  east,  Lakes  Erie  and  St.  -Clair,  the  connect- 
ing rivers,  and  the  great  Lake  Huron ;  and  on  the  west,  Lake 
Michigan.  It  is  a  region  of  plains  and  round-topped  hills,  with 
a  long  valley  running  across  it  from  Saginaw  Bay  to  Grand  Haven. 
The  country  north  of  this  remarkable  valley  was  in  ancient  times  a  great  island.  The  south- 
ern water-shed  curves  around  from  Bad  Axe  to  Ann  Arbor  and  Hillsdale  ;  and  the  northern 
water-shed  is  a  line  of  undulating  highlands,  midway  between  Lakes  Huron  and  Michigan. 
In  the  north  these  hills  attain  a  height  of  nearly  1,400  feet.  The  chief  rivers  of  the  Lower 
Peninsula  are  the  Raisin  and  Huron,  tributary  to  Lake  Erie ;  the  Saginaw  (navigable  for 
40  miles),  Au-Sable,  Thunder-Bay  and  Cheboygan,  on  the  Huron  side;  and  the  Grand 
Traverse,  Manistee,  Muskegon,  Grand,  Kalamazoo  and  St. -Joseph  on  the  western  side. 
The  Grand  is  270  miles  long,  with  40  miles  navigable  for  steamboats.  These  streams  flow 
through  winding  courses  down  their  pleasant  and  fertile  valleys,  of 
little  service  to  navigation  (except  by  timber-rafts),  but  with  good 
harbors  at  their  mouths,  made  at  great  cost  by  the  United-States 
Government.  The  chief  Lake-Huron  harbors  are  at  Port  Huron, 
Sand  Beach,  Bay  City,  Saginaw,  Alpena  and  Cheboygan.  The 
Lake-Michigan  ports  are  St.  Joseph,  Grand  Haven,  Muskegon, 
Manistee,  Ludington  and  Traverse  City. 

The  Lake-St. -Clair  Canal,  known  to  sailors  as  "The  Cut,"  was 
finished  in  187 1,  at  a  cost  of  $650,000,  by  the  United-States  Govern- 
ment. This  route  is  traversed  every  year  by  2,000  vessels,  with  a 
tonnage  of  30,000,000.  It  is  8,200  feet  long,  200  feet  wide,  and  16 
feet  deep,  and  saves  shipping  from  the  intricate  navigation  of  the 


! 


MACKINAC   SCENES. 


GRAND    RAPIDS  : 
MICHIGAN    MASONIC   HOME. 


THE  STATE   OF  MICHIGAN. 


405 


KALAMAZOO  : 
YOUNG    MEN'S    CHRISTIAN    ASSOCIATION. 


old-time  narrow  and  winding  channels.  The  St.-Clair 
River  is  a  strait,  40  miles  long,  uniting  Lake  Huron  and 
Lake  St.-Clair,  with  a  current  of  four  miles  an  hour. 
Lake  St.-Clair  is  25  miles  in  diameter,  generally  shallow, 
and  bordered  with  lowlands  and  fields  of  wild  rice, 
haunted  by  water-fowl.  The  water-surface  covers  360 
square  miles,  and  averages  20  feet  deep.  Detroit  River, 
20  miles  long,  unites  Lake  St.  -Clair  with  Lake  Erie,  and 
at  its  mouth  is  four  miles  wide.  All  the  traffic  passes 
through  the  narrow  Canadian  channel,  east  of  Bois-Blanc 
Island,  the  American  channel,  though  broader,  being  more  shallow. 

The  lakes  of  the  Michigan  North  Woods  and  the  Grand-Traverse  region,  Pine  Lake, 
(18  by  four  miles),  Torch,  Bear,  Burt,  Mullet  and  others,  between  Traverse  City  and  Che- 
boygan,  abound  in  game  and  fish,  and  are  much  visited  by  sportsmen. 

Mackinac  is  a  quaint  and  antiquated  hamlet  on  an  island  in  the  Straits,  overlooked  by  a 
crumbling  fort,  and  isolated  by  the  wide  northern  waters  from  modern  activities  and  excite- 
ments. It  was  founded  by  the  French  fur-traders  and  mission-priests  more  than  two  cen- 
turies ago,  and  has  suffered  from  several  sieges,  Indian,  British  and  American.  Astor's 
American  Fur  Company  made  Mackinac  its  chief  depot  for  40  years,  after  1809.  The  island 
is  nine  miles  around,  and  has  been  reserved  by  the  United- States  Government  as  one  of  its 
National  parks.  The  Arch,  Chimney,  and  Sugar-Loaf  Rocks,  and  other  odd  bits  of  scenery, 
the  deep  and  spicy  forests,  the  noble  views  over  the  blue  and  sea-  I  like  lakes ;  the  per- 
petual coolness  and  refreshment  of  the  air,  and  the 
weird  legends  which  haunt  every  lonely 
beach  and  breezy  cliff,  have  made  Mack- 
inac a  charming  summer-resort  in  these 
latter  days.  Bois-Blanc  Island,  Point  St. 
Ignace,  the  Cheneaux  Islands  and  other 
interesting  localities  are  in  this  vicinity. 

Beaver  Island  was  the  seat  of  the  Mormon  colony  of  St.  James,  founded  in  1846  by  one 
of  the  Nauvoo  elders,  who  acted  as  its  priest  and  king  for  ten  years,  when  he  was  assassi- 
nated, and  the  colony  disappeared. 

The  Climate  of  the  Lower  Peninsula,  moderated  by  its  bordering  seas,  is  several  degrees 
warmer  than  that  of  the  same  latitudes  in  Wisconsin.  The  mean  temperature  is  47. 25°, 
and  the  annual  rainfall  reaches  42  inches.  The  spring  and  summer  rains  are  heavier  than 
in  the  Upper  Peninsula ;  the  autumn  and  winter  rains  are  lighter.  The  mean  yearly  tem- 
perature of  Lansing  resembles  that  of  Berlin,  with  the  summers  of  Vienna  and  the  winters 
of  Stockholm.  The  tempering  influences  of  Lake  Michigan,  robbing  the  frequent  north  and 
northwest  winds  of  their  rigor,  have  developed  a  vast  and  varied  flora. 

Agriculture. — The  average  yearly  product  of  wheat  in  Michigan  is  27,000,000  bushels, 
most  of  which  comes  from  the  southern  four  tiers   of  counties.     The 
product  of  shelled  corn  varies  from  23,000,000  to  27,000,000  bushels, 
with  an  average  of  21,000,000;  of  oats,  25,000,000  to  32,000,000  ;  pota- 
toes, 10,000,000  bushels;  and  clover-seed,  230,000  bushels.     The  yield 
of  hay  is   1,500,000  tons;  and  buckwheat,  barley,  rye,  and 
clover-seed  are  profitably  cultivated. 

Dr.  Winchell  says  that  the  geological  strata  of  the  Lower 
Peninsula  are  like  a  nest  of  bowls,  the  coal-measures  in  the 
middle,  and  various  belts  of  sandstone,  limestone  and  other 
formations  outside.  The  soil  is  a  light  sandy  loam,  unpro- 
ductive in  the  timber-lands  of  the  north  and  the  sands  of 
GRAND  RAPIDS  :  CITY  HALL.  the  west,  but  in  the  south  rich  and  fruitful,  and  abounding 


FLINT  I    INSTITUTION    FOR   THE   DEAF  AND   DUMB. 


4o6 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


PONTIAC  :    EASTERN    MICHIGAN    INSANE  ASYLUM. 


in  corn.  The  larger  rivers  have 
valuable  alluvial  bottoms,  occu- 
pied by  prosperous  farms.  The 
southern  counties  are  famous 
for  cereals  and  live-stock,  and 
have  enormous  areas  of  orchards 
and  fruit -farms.  And  yet  the 
Survey  or- General  of  Ohio  re- 
ported, in  1815,  that  not  more 
than  one  acre  in  a  thousand  in  j 
southern  Michigan  "would  in 
any  case  admit  of  cultivation,"  and  Congress  benevolently  excluded  this  alleged  desert  from 
its  military  land-grants. 

The  upland  plains,  extending  for  200  miles  north  along  the  shore  of  Lake  Michigan 
and  with  a  climate  tempered  by  the  water,  include  one  of  the  best  fruit-raising  countries  in 
the  world.  The  fruits  of  Allegan,  Van-Buren  and  Berrien  counties  bring  over  $2,000,000 
yearly,  and  include  peaches,  apples,  cherries,  plums,  strawberries  and  grapes.  In  1872  there 
were  600,000  peach-trees  in  southwestern  Michigan,  but  nearly  all  were  destroyed  by  the 
yellows,  and  by  severe  winters,  during  the  next  five  years.  These  have  been  replaced  by 
new  trees ;  and  St.  Joseph  and  South  Haven  still  supply  Chicago  with  choice  peaches.  The 
Michigan  apples  are  among  the  best  in  America,  and  upwards  of  3,000,000  bushels  are  sold 
yearly.  Kalamazoo  is  the  foremost  locality  in  America  (and  perhaps  in  the  world)  for  the 
cultivation  of  celery,  having  2,000  acres  devoted  to  this  industry. 

The  successful  development  of  agriculture  in 
the  Northwest  has  been  materially  aided  by  the 
admirable  quality  of  the  seeds  furnished  to  the 
husbandmen.  One  of  the  largest  seed-houses 
in  the  world  is  that  of  D.  M.  Ferry  &  Com- 
pany, whose  great  new  fire-proof  building,  cov- 
ering half  a  block  in  the  heart  of  Detroit,  is 
the  most  gigantic  structure  for  its  uses  in  the 
world.  Here  are  the  headquarters  of  90  travel- 
ling salesmen ;  and  nearly  1,500  persons  are  em- 
ployed on  the  seed-farms  and  in  other  operations  of  the  company,  during  the  busy  season. 
The  seeds  raised  by  these  experts  are  carefully  packed  into  boxes,  assorted  for  different  soils 
and  climates ;  and  this  enormous  product  goes  all  over  the  continent,  thousands  of  whose 
farmers  send  for  "Ferry's  Seed  Annual"  every  season  before  the  frost  leaves  the  ground. 


DETROIT  I     D.     M.    FERRY    COMPANY 


The  trial 
and  purity, 
other  seeds 
1856,  and 
dustriee  of 


DETROIT  I    NEW   POST-OFFICE. 


grounds  cover  ten  acres,  and  are  the  scene  of  careful  tests  for  vitality 
to  which  all  varieties  of  vegetables  and  flowers,  grain  and  grass,  and 
are  continually  subjected.  This  widely  known  business  was  founded  in 
has  developed  into  one  of  the  most  commanding  and  beneficent  in- 
the  Northwest,  preeminently  the  land  of  farms. 

The  live-stock  of  Michigan  numbers  370,000 
horses,  348,000  milch-cows,  380,000  cattle,  460,- 
ooo  hogs,  and  2,000,000  sheep.  The  latter  yield 
12,000,000  pounds  of  wool  yearly.  Forty-five 
thousand  colonies  of  bees  produce  750,000  pounds 
of  honey  every  year,  from  the  abounding  flowers 
which  adorn  the  broad  plains  of  the  Lower 
Peninsula. 

Minerals. — The  manufacture  of  salt  in  Mich- 
igan began  in  1860,  and  by  1880  reached  over 


THE  STATE   OF  MICHIGAN. 


407 


MARQUETTE  :    THE  POST-OFFICE. 


12,000,000  bushels  yearly.  This  great  industry  centres  about 
Saginaw  Bay,  where  multitudes  of  salt-wells  have  been  sunk, 
and  about  Manistee.  Most  of  the  brine  is  evaporated  by  the 
waste  steam  of  the  lumber-mills.  The  saline  region  covers 
8,000  square  miles,  and  is  inexhaustible,  the  output  even  now 
being  greater  than  that  of  New  York,  with  careful  inspection 
and  high  grading.  In  1888,  4,240,000  barrels  of  salt  were 
produced;  and  in  all  over  50,000,000  barrels  have  been  sent 
from  these  wells. 

Coal  underlies  6, 700  square  miles  of  Michigan,  the  chief 
veins  being  from  two  to  five  feet  thick,  and  far  underground.  It 
is  of  inferior  quality,  containing  hardly  50  per  cent,  of  carbon, 
light,  friable  and  slaty.  It  is  highly  bituminous,  but  not  pure 
enough  for  smelting,  for  which  coal  is  brought  from  Ohio  and  Pennsylvania.  The  chief 
coal-mines  are  near  Jackson  and  Corunna,  in  the  centre  of  the  Lower  Peninsula.  There 
are  large  grindstone  quarries  at  Grindstone  City,  on  the  tip  of  the  thumb  of  the  Lower 
Peninsula,  where  200  men  cut  and  chip  the  stones  to  the  desired  size,  after  which  they  are 
hung  and  turned  in  the  mills.  It  is  a  very  fine  grit,  soft  and  wet  when  fresh,  but  growing 
hard  and  dry  on  exposure.  The  quarries  were  opened  in  1838.  Their  product  goes  to 
Detroit  and  Chicago,  by  water.  The  State  produces  54,000  tons  of  land-plaster  yearly, 
and  170,000  barrels  of  stucco.  The  quarries  are  near  Grand  Rapids  and  Alabaster,  in  thick 
beds  of  white,  rose  and  gray  gypsum,  which  is  broken,  crushed,  pulverized  and  ground  like 
flour.  Near  Jackson  there  are  large  deposits  of  fire-clay,  used  for  sewer-pipe,  drain-tile 
and  similar  wares,  of  which  over  30,000  tons  are  made  here  every  year.  Among  other 
mineral  products  are  the  white  statuary  marble  of  Menominee ;  the  red  and  yellow  ochres 
of  St.  Mary  ;  the'  mottled,  buff,  white  and  gray  freestones  of  Ionia,  Stony  Point,  Parma  and 
Point  aux  Barques  ;  the  fine  slates  'of  Huron  Bay ;  the  limestones  of  Little  Traverse  and 
London  ;  and  the  glass-sand  of  Ida,  six  miles  from  Monroe,  from  which  excellent  plate- 
glass  is  made. 

The  so-called  magnetic  waters  of  Michigan  (which  are,  indeed,  not  magnetic)  were 
developed  about  the  year  1870.  The  fountains  at  Eaton  Rapids,  Hubbardston  and  Leslie 
Wells  are  calcic.  The  Butterworth  Springs  at  Grand  Rapids  resemble  those  of  Bath.  The 
Alpena  Well  is  remarkably  rich  in  sulphuretted  hydrogen.  The  Spring-Lake  and  Fruit- 
Port  wells  have  strong  saline  waters,  much  visited  by  people  from  Chicago.  The  Fruit-Port 
water  resembles  that  of  Kreuznach,  in  Prussia.  The  Owosso  Spring  is  chalybeate.  The 
St.-Clair  is  a  valuable  saline  spring,  near  the  city  of  St.  Clair.  The  St. -Louis  Well,  in 
Gratiot  County,  is  a  simple  alka- 
line water,  ameliorating  dyspep- 
sia, neuralgia  and  rheumatism. 
The  Medea  Springs,  at  Mt. 
Clemens,  are  hot  waters,  used  in 
bathing.  The  Ypsilanti  Springs 
are  now  attracting  many  patients. 
There  are  several  other  mineral 
springs  in  the  State,  with  hotels 
and  other  conveniences. 

The  production  of  lumber 
has  been  a  leading  industry  ever 
since  the  opening  of  mills  in  the 
Saginaw  Valley,  in  1832.  In 
the  ten  years,  1867-77,  the  Sag- 
inaw Valley  produced  enough  DETROIT  .  ,NTERNATIONAL  FAIR  AND  EXPOSITION  BUILDING. 


408 


HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


LUMBERING    IN    MICHIGAN. 

AUGER,    SMITH   A   CO. 
MANIETIQUE    LUMBERING   CO. 


lumber  to  put  a  walk  44  feet  wide  around  the  earth 
at  the  equator.  These  mills  turned  out,  in  1865-80,  the 
enormous  quantity  of  8,857,951,171  feet  of  lumber.  The 
prairies  and  oak-openings  of  the  southern  counties  are 
succeeded  by  broad  forests  of  hardwood,  along  the  rivers, 
and  these  by  illimitable  pineries  in  the  north.  The  Upper 
Peninsula  is  almost  entirely  covered  with  forests,  not  yet 
so  seriously  attacked  as  those  of  the  south.  This  vast 
product  is  shipped  by  water  to  the  various  lake-ports,  and 
distributed  thence  by  railway.  Two  thirds  of  the  lumber 
used  in  New  York  and  Philadelphia  comes  from  Michigan. 
Since  1879  tne  yearly  production  of  the  Saginaw  Valley 
has  risen  from  730,000,000  to  above  1,000,000,000  feet 
of  lumber.  Michigan  is  the  foremost  State  in  the  value 
of  its  lumber  and  laths.  In  1886,  her  product  was 
3,000,000,000  feet  of  lumber  and  284,000,000  shingles. 
There  are  1,000  mills,  with  an  invested  capital  of  fully 
$48,  ooo,  ooo,  and  a  yearly  product  of  $60,  ooo,  ooo.  They 
employ  35,000  men.  The  lumber-industry  of  the  Huron 
shore  converges  about  Saginaw  Bay,  which  is  entered  by 
ten  rivers,  with  an  aggregate  length  of  nearly  900  miles, 
floating  yearly  600,  ooo,  ooo  feet  of  logs.  The  Grand  and 
Muskegon  Rivers  are  also  used  by  vast  rafts.  Thousands 
of  vessel-loads  of  cord-wood,  cedar  posts  and  hemlock 
bark  are  shipped  yearly  from  the  Michigan  shores,  and 
thousands  of  tons  of  maple-sugar  and  potash  and  pearl- 
ash. 

At  the  close  of  the  civil  war,  Gen.  Russell  A.  Alger, 
whose  name  is  now  familiar  throughout  the  whole  coun- 
try, settled  at  Detroit,  without  a  dollar  and  in  ill  health, 
and  bearing  the  scars  of  many  battle-wounds,  but  full  of 
energy  and  hope.  He  established  a  lumber  business, 
which  in  1881  received  incorporation  as  Alger,  Smith  & 
Co.,  and  is  now  one  of  the  leading  industries  of  the  kind 
in  America.  This  corporation  and  the  Manistique  Lum- 
bering Co.  (also  under  the  presidency  of  Gen.  Alger) 
own  130,000  acres  of  pine-land  in  Alcona  County  and  in 
the  Upper  Peninsula,  with  mills  and  steamboats ;  and 
employ  a  thousand  men,  producing  yearly  140,000,000 
feet  of  long  pine  timber,  saw  logs  and  lumber.  Alger, 
Smith  &  Co.,  with  their  allied  concerns,  are  said  to  be 
the  largest  producers  of  long  timber  in  the  world ;  and 
most  of  their  shipments  go  from  Black  River  to  Toledo 
and  Cleveland,  Detroit  and  Tonawanda.  Large  timber- 
rafts  are  towed  by  the  company's  steamers  to  various 
ports,  to  be  used  in  all  operations  requiring  good  lumber. 
The  avocations  of  the  woodsmen  in  the  great  forests  of 
Michigan  are  full  of  interest.  Gen.  Alger  also  owns 
important  interests  in  great  areas  of  pine-lands  in  Wis- 
consin and  the  South,  and  of  redwood  in  California,  and 
fir  in  Washington,  whose  products  supplement  those  of 
the  Michigan  woods. 


THE  STATE   OF  MICHIGAN. 


409 


SAULT    STE. -MARIE  :    SHIP-CANAL   AND    LOCKS. 


The  Upper  Peninsula  is  about  half  the  size 
of  the  Lower,  318  miles  long  from  east  to  west, 
and  from  30  to  164  miles  from  north  to  south,  and 
with  100,000  inhabitants,  mostly  connected  with 
the  mines.  On  the  south  it  has  Wisconsin,  Green 
Bay,  Lakes  Michigan  and  Huron,  and  the  Straits 
of  Mackinaw ;  on  the  north  are  Lake  Superior  and 
the  St. -Mary's  River.  A  line  of  highlands  runs 
from  the  Sault  Ste. -Marie  westward  almost  to  Mar- 
quette,  where  it  breaks  into  two  lower  ridges,  one 
swinging  out  into  Lake  Superior,  at  Keweenaw 
Point,  and  the  other  running  west  toward  the  upper  lake-country  of  Wisconsin.  The  Por- 
cupine Mountains  (50  miles  long),  20  miles  west  of  Ontonagon,  rise  2,000  feet  high  along 
Lake  Superior,  with  the  Copper  Range  extending  from  Keweenaw  Point  into  Wisconsin, 
and  the  South  Copper  and  Iron  Ranges  farther  east.  Most  of  the  streams  flow  south,  but 
the  two  chief  rivers,  the  Tequamenon  and  Ontonagon,  run  north  into  Lake  Superior.  Rugged 
ridges  and  sandy  plains  extend  off  from  the  mountain-ranges,  and  the  south  is  covered  with 
virgin  forests,  extending  down  into  the  far-reaching  and  valuable  pineries  of  Wisconsin. 
The  Sault-Ste. -Marie  River,  62  miles  long,  forms  the  boundary  between  the  United 
States  and  Canada,  uniting  the  waters  of  Lake  Superior  and 
Lake  Huron.  It  is  a  rapid  and  transparent  stream,  with  many 
islands  and  lake-like  widenings,  and  leagues  of  forest-bound 
shores.  The  St.  -Mary's  Ship-Canal  was  opened  by  Michigan 
in  1855,  and  afterwards  transferred  to  the  United  States,  since 
which  great  improvements  have  been  made.  The  lock  built 
in  1 88 1  cost  $1,000,000,  and  is  of  granite,  with  the  most 
approved  modern  mechanism.  It  is  the  largest  lock  in  the 
world,  with  a  length  of  515  feet,  a  width  of  So  feet,  and  a 
lift  of  20  feet.  It  can  be  filled  in  15  minutes,  and  will  hold 
two  large  lake-steamers.  Navigation  keeps  open  here  210 
days  or  more  in  a  year.  In  1888,  7,803  vessels  passed 
through,  with  a  tonnage  of  5,130,659,  and  a  freight  ton- 
nage of  6,411,423.  The  value  of  these  cargoes  exceeded 
$80,000,000.  A  larger  lock,  1,000  feet  long,  100  feet  wide, 
and  21  feet  deep,  to  cost  $4,000,000,  is  being  constructed  on  the  site  of  the  lock  opened  in 
1855.  A  greater  tonnage  passes  through  this  canal  every  year  than  through  the  world- 
renowned  Suez  Canal,  carrying  25,000,000  bushels  of  wheat,  2,500,000  tons  of  iron  ore, 
165,000,000  feet  of  lumber,  and  great  quantities  of  coal.  A  single  vessel  and  its  tow  can 
transport  as  much  as  700  freight-cars.  At  Sault  Ste. -Marie  (usually  called  "The  Soo") 
converge  the  tracks  of  the  Duluth,  South-Shore  &  Atlantic,  the  Minneapolis,  St. -Paul  & 
Sault-Ste. -Marie,  and  the  Sault  Branch  of  the  Canadian-Pacific  Railroad.  Near  the  busy 
city  which  is  rising  here  on  the  international  boundary  stands  k  the  garrisoned  post 

of  Fort  Brady,  built  in  1823.     A  canal  was' finished  in  1873  1^        from  Lake  Superior 

to  Portage  Lake,  to  enable  vessels  to  avoid  weathering 
Keweenaw  Point.  It  is  i^  miles  long,  and  collects  enor- 
mous tolls  from  the  passing  vessels. 

The  bitter  winds  and  fogs  of  Lake  Superior, 
and  the  rough  and  rocky  character  of  much  of 
the  soil,  have  prevented  large  farming  opera- 
tions in  this  region,  and  the  people  have  turned  ^ 
their  attention  to  mining,  in  which  they  have 
achieved  great  results.  GRAND  RAPIDS:  MICHIGAN  SOLDIERS'  HOME. 


IRON-ORE    MINING. 


4io 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


PICTURED    ROCKS:     LAKE   SUPERIOR. 


The  Iron  Ore  Product  of  Michigan  is  far  greater 
than  that  of  any  other  State,  and  amounts  to  more  than 
one-third  of  the  entire  American  output.  Fifty-seven 
million  tons  had  been  shipped  hence  down  to  the  close  of 
1886,  valued  at  $285,000,000.  In  1880  the  product  of 
the  mines  and  furnaces  was  about  2,000,000  tons,  valued 
at  $19,500,000.  The  iron  ore  mined,  sold  and  shipped  in 
1885  reached  2,466,872  gross  tons;  in  1886,  3,568,022;  l|^ 
in  1887,  4,730,557;  in  1888,  5,025,277;  and  in  1889, 
5,856, 169.  The  Michigan  product  is  valued  at  $16,000,- 
ooo  a  year  ;  and  has  more  than  trebled  in  the  last  five  years.  The  Menominee  Range 
began  its  output  in  1877,  and  has  yielded  12,000,000  tons,  averaging  latterly  1,800,000 
tons  yearly.  The  Gogebic  and  Vermilion  Ranges  were  opened  in  1884,  and  the  former 
ships  1,200,000  tons  a  year.  Their  united  product  has  amounted  to  8,000,000  tons.  The 
Norrie  Mine  alone  gives  half  a  million  tons  yearly.  The  Marquette  Range  has  yielded 
over  30,000,000  tons  of  ore,  and  still  leads  the  other  districts  in  its  yearly  output.  The 
Schlesinger  syndicate  is  a  combination  of  New- York  and  Berlin  capitalists,  who  have  already 
acquired  15  mines,  valued  at  $10,000,000,  and  yielding  millions  of  tons  a  year.  They 
opened  in  1890  a  railway  of  54  miles,  from  Iron  Mountain  east  to  the  docks  at  Escanaba, 
on  Lake  Michigan.  The  Cleveland  Iron  Mining  Company  recently  paid  $1,750,000  for 
seven  tenths  of  the  Iron-Cliff  district,  near  Marquette.  The  Michigan  ores  are  of  unpar- 
alleled richness,  reaching  an  average  of  63  per  cent, 
for  the  best  grades,  and  making  the  purest  and  most 
refractory  iron  in  America.  The  mountain  ranges 
send  thousands  of  cargoes  yearly  to  the  great 
rolling-mills  of  Chicago,  Cleveland  and  Pitts- 
burgh, without  missing  them.  Marquette,  on 
Iron  Bay,  opening  from  Lake  Superior,  under  the 
lee  of  the  beautiful  Presque  Isle  (granted  by  Con- 
gress for  a  city  park),  is  one  of  the  chief  outlets 
of  the  great  iron  country,  with  large  shipping  in- 
terests. Escanaba  is  another  important  shipping  point,  near  the  mouth  of  Longfellow's 
"Rushing  Escanawba,"  and  on  a  bay  of  Lake  Michigan,  amid  much  beauty  of  scenery. 
The  trappean  mountains  of  Keweenaw  Point,  600  to  1,200  feet  high,  and  projecting  70  miles 
into  Lake  Superior,  contain  the  richest  copper-mines  in  the  world,  where  are  found  masses 
of  pure  virgin  copper,  only  needing  to  be  cut  out  of  the  rocks.  The  Indians  used  to  make 
implements  from  this  metal,  centuries  ago,  and  believed  that  Keweenaw  was  the  home  of  a 
dreadful  demon.  These  mines  of  the  Upper  Peninsula  have  produced  $200,000,000  worth 
of  ore.  They  employ  nearly  6,000  men,  one  fifth  being  Americans,  and  the  rest  English- 
men, Finns  and  French  Canadians.  The  copper-belt  is  135  miles  long,  and  from  one  to  six 
miles  wide.  The  output  of  copper  in  1845  was  twelve  tons  ;  in  1888  it  reached  38,000  tons, 
valued  at  $12,000,000.  It  is  claimed  that  the  Calumet  and  Hecla  is  the  most  profitable 
mine  in  the  world,  having  paid  in  dividends  $32,000,000, 
within  20  years.  The  Tamarack,  Quincy  and  other  mines 
have  also  given  large  profits  to  their  owners. 
The  Tamarack-Osceola  combination  have  a 
rolling-mill  at  Dollar  Bay,  near  the  mines.  The 
singular  tenacity  of  Michigan  copper  gives  it 
great  value  for  cartridges,  and  it  is  in  demand 
by  the  military  nations  for  this  purpose. 

In  1888  deposits  of  gold  were  discovered, 
near  Ishpeming ;  and  several  mines  are  now  in  BATTLE  CREEK  :  BATTLE-CREEK  COLLEGE. 


LANSING  :    REFORM  SCHOOL  FOR  BOYS. 


THE  STATE   OF  MICHIGAN. 


DETROIT  :    HOUSE    OF    CORRECTION. 


syenite  occur  in  large  masses. 


operation,  in  the  auriferous  quartz,  shipping  large  quantities 
of  bullion  and  concentrates.  The  Lake- Superior  region 
also  produces  silver,  agate,  sardonyx,  chalcedony,  cornelian, 
jasper  and  opals.  Roofing-slate  and  freestone  are  quarried 
at  Arvon,  twelve  miles  from  L'Anse ;  brown  freestone  and 
mottled  marble  at  Marquette ;  and  limestone  at  Drum- 
mond's  Island.  Here,  also,  is  found  an  excellent  quartz, 
used  in  lining  Bessemer-steel  converters ;  and  granite  and 
The  Michigan  Mining  School,  founded  by  the  legislative  act 
of  1885,  occupies  a  building  of  Lake-Superior  sandstone,  erected  in  1888-9,  at  Houghton, 
overlooking  Portage  Lake.  Its  chief  studies  are  petrography,  metallurgy,  geology,  miner- 
alogy, chemistry  and  engineering,  with  frequent  excursions  to  the  great  copper  and  iron 
mines  and  works  near  by.  Tuition  is  free  to  residents  of  Michigan.  The  jagged  capes  and 
far-retiring  bays  around  the  Upper  Peninsula  have  much  grandeur  of  scenery,  and  attract 
great  numbers  of  vacation-tourists  every  summer.  The  Pictured  Rocks  are  a  series  of  seven 
miles  of  sandstone  cliffs,  rising  300  feet  sheer  from  the  waters  of  Lake  Superior,  worn  by 
the  waves  into  many  strange  and  fantastic  shapes,  as  of  castles,'  towers,  chapels,  gates,  sails 
and  profiles,  in  vivid  tints  of  gray  and  green,  umber  and  vermilion,  blue  and  yellow,  and 
extending  eastward  from  the  beautiful  Munising  harbor  to  the  desolate  yellow  sand-hills  of 
the  Sables,  30  miles  west  of  Sault  Ste. -Marie.  At  one  point  the  Silver  Cascade  plunges  175 
feet  sheer  over  the  cliffs,  and  scores  of  other  waterfalls  gem  the  lonely  walls  of  rock.  This 
is  in  the  heart  of  Hiawatha's  country,  and  the  wigwam  of 
Nokomis  stood  on  the  site  of  the  half-ruined  and  deserted 
port  of  Munising,  facing  the  Big  Sea  Water. 

Isle  Royale,  55  miles  from  Keweenaw  Point,  and  15 
miles  from  the  Canadian  shore,  is  45  miles  by  nine  miles 
in  area,  with  rocky  and  indented  shores  and  great  woods, 
and  hills  700  feet  high.  Copper  was  mined  here  by  the 
pre-historic  races,  and  has  been  worked  recently  by  less 
primitive  processes.  Drummond's  Island,  one  of  the  Man- 
itoulin  group,  belongs  to  the  United  States,  and  is  -20  miles  long,  with  rocky  and  irregular 
shores,  separated  from  the  mainland  by  the  Detour  Passage. 

The  Government  of  Michigan  rests  in  a  biennially  elected  governor  and  executive 
officers  ;  a  legislature,  usually  holding  sessions  from  January  1st  to  July  1st  every  other  year  ; 
and  a  supreme  court  of  five  elective  judges,  for  terms  of  ten  years,  with  29  circuit  courts  — 
the  judges  elective  for  terms  of  six  years.  The  State  House  at  Lansing  was  erected  in  1872-8, 
at  a  cost  of  $1,500,000,  of  Amherst  (Ohio)  sandstone.  The  State  Library  numbers  48,000 
volumes. 

The  Michigan  State  Troops  are  well  organized,  and  include  2,418  volunteers,  organ- 
ized into  a  brigade,  composed  of  the  First,  Second,  Third  and  Fourth  Regiments  of  Infan- 
try. They  encamp  five  days  of  each  summer,  in  company  with  a  battalion  of  United- States 
regulars.  The  Michigan  Soldiers'  Home  occupies  an  imposing  structure  near  Grand  Rapids, 
dedicated  in  1886,  and  taking  care  of  450  veterans  of  the  campaigns  of  the  civil  war. 

The  Charities  and  Correc- 
tions of  Michigan  include  the  State 
Prison,  at  Jackson,  with  750  con- 
victs ;  the  House  of  Correction  and 
Reformatory  at  Ionia,  390 ;  the  In- 
1  dustrial  Home  for  Girls,  at  Adrian, 
220;  and  the  State  Reform  School 
for  Boys,  on  a  large  farm  near  Lan- 

HILLSDALE  I     HILL8DALE    COLLEGE.  Sing,       460.          The       StatC       HOUSC       Of 


DETROIT  :   THE   HARPER    HOSPITAL. 


412 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE   UNITED   STATES. 


Correction  and  Prison, 
Upper   Peninsula,  is  at 
Marquette,  and  dates  from 
1889.      It   occupies  a  castel- 
lated   building    of   Lake- Superior 
sandstone.    The  State  Public  School  for   Dependent  Children  is  a  noble 

and  useful  institution,  on  a  farm  of  120  acres,  at  Cold  water.  The  inmates  are  200  healthy 
children,  between  two  and  twelve  years  old,  who  must  otherwise  have  been  maintained  and 
educated  by  the  State,  which  also  finds  homes  for  them.  The  Michigan  School  for  the 
Deaf,  at  Flint,  dating  from  1854,  cares  for  300  inmates,  teaching  them  printing,  sewing, 
carpentering,  shoe-making,  and  cabinet-work.  The  School  for  the  Blind,  at  Lansing,  has 
90  inmates,  who  are  taught  broom-making  and  piano-tuning.  The  several  counties  support 
their  own  insane  poor  in  the  great  institutions,  which  have  cost  the  State  $4,000,000.  The 
Michigan  Asylum,  at  Kalamazoo,  has  860  inmates ;  the  Eastern  Asylum,  at  Pontiac,  800 ; 
the  Northern  Asylum,  at  Traverse  City,  600 ;  and  the  Asylum  for  Insane  Criminals,  240 

Education  was  early  provided  for  by  grants  of  land,  and  the  proceeds  of  their  sales  are 
held  by  the  State  as  a  fund,  whose  interest  goes  toward  the  support  of  the  schools.  The 
primary-school  fund  amounts  to  $5,000,000.  The  school  property  is  valued  at  $13,000,000. 
The  income  from  the  funds  is  supplemented  by  local  taxes.  The  State  Normal  School  is  at 
Ypsilanti,  and  there  are  training  classes  and  schools  elsewhere,  while  teachers'  reading  cir- 
cies  and  institutes  do  valuable  work.  The  graded  schools  include  primary,  grammar  and 
high  schools,  pupils  studying  four  years  in  each,  and  passing  to  the  University  by  diploma. 

The  University  of  Michigan,  one  of  the  greatest  of  American  educational  institutions, 
dates  its  origin  from  1817,  when  Chief- Justice  Woodward  drew  up  "An  act  to  establish 
the  Catholipistemiad,  or  University  of  Michigania."  The  institution  had  already  been 
provided  for  by  a  Congressional  land-grant,  but  it  Sid  not  begin  work  until  1841.  The 
United- States  grant  is  worth  $500,000  ;  the  State  appropriated  $1,200,000 ;  and  Ann  Arbor, 
where  the  University  is  established,  has  made  generous  gifts.  It  is  the  culmination  of  the 


THE  STATE   OF  MICHIGAN. 


413 


DETROIT  :    MUSEUM  OF  ART. 


public-school  system,  and  offers  its  privileges  without  charge  for 
tuition,  to  young  men  or  women.  The  literary  department 
has  1,000  students;  the  department  of  medicine  and 
surgery  (founded  in  1849),  370;  the  Law  Department 
(1858),  525;  Pharmacy  (1869),  80;  the  Homoeopathic 
Medical  College  (1875),  7°J  tne  College  of  Dental  Sur- 
gery (1875),  loo.  The  General  Library  contains  60,000 
volumes,  including  several  remarkable  special  collections  ; 
and  there  are  14,000  volumes  in  the  law  and  medical 
libraries.  The  museum  has  400,000  specimens.  There 
are  magnificent  equipments  in  science  and  art ;  and 
the  new  laboratory  for  chemical  study  is  exceptionally 
large.  Advanced  students  follow  the  German  Sem- 
inary method  of  instruction.  There  have  been  many  women  students  in  the  University, 
since  their  admission  in  1870.  Nearly  half  the  students  are  from  Michigan,  the  rest  being 
mainly  from  j.  the  West,  with  150  from  the  Middle  States,  50  from  the  South, 

So  from  the        A  Pacific  States,  25  from  New  England,    50  from  Canada,   20  from 

Japan  and   10  from  Europe,  the  total  number  in  attendance  being 
2, 162,  of  whom  368  are  women. 

The  Michigan  State  Agricultural  College,  near  Lan- 
sing, has  27  instructors  and  320  students.  The  mechanic 
arts  are  taught  here,  and  horticultural  and  veterinary 
science,  with  military  drill.  The  State  Mining  School 
is  at  Houghton.  Olivet  College  was  founded  in  1844, 
as  a  daughter  of  Congregational  and  Anti- Slavery  Ober- 
lin,  and  a  granddaughter  of  New  England.  It  has  a 
campus  of  20  acres,  with  the  beautiful  new  library,  Ship- 
herd  Hall  (for  girl-students)  and  other  buildings.  There 
are  1 6  instructors  and  200  students.  Hope  College,  at 
Holland,  was  founded  in  1851  by  a  colony  of  Holland- 
ers, who  had  left  their  native  country  in  search  of  religious  freedom.  It  has  seven  profes- 
sors and  40  students,  with  100  in  the  grammar-school,  eight  in  the  Western  Theological 
Seminary  of  the  Reformed  Church  in  America,  and  150  in  the  Summer  Normal  School. 
Adrian  College,  founded  in  1859,  has  twelve  instructors  and  six  schools,  including  the 
divinity  school  of  the  Methodist  Protestant  Church.  Kalamazoo  College  owns  several  good 
buildings,  in  a  campus  of  25  acres  on  a  far-viewing  hill.  The  new  Ladies'  Hall  is  one  of  its 


KALAMAZOO  :    THE    OPERA    HOUSE. 


DETROIT,  THE  CITY  OF  THE  STRAITS,   FROM  WINDSOR. 

chief  features.  Albion  College  belongs  to  the  Methodists,  and  has,  in  all  departments,  440 
pupils.  Battle-Creek  College  is  the  chief  school  of  the  Seventh-Day  Baptists  in  America ; 
and  Hillsdale  College  is  a'  famous  Free  Baptist  institution.  Among  the  secondary  schools 
are  the  Michigan  Military  Academy,  at  Orchard  Lake,  with  eight  instructors  and  120  cadets ; 
Michigan  Female  Seminary,  at  Kalamazoo ;  and  the  Jesuit  institution  of  Detroit  College. 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 


Newspapers  began  here  with  The  Michigan  Essay  and 
Impartial  Observer,  printed  in  1809,  on  a  press  brought  west  by 
Father  Richard,  the  Catholic  leader  at  Detroit.  The  Detroit 
Gazette  began  in  1817  ;  the  Detroit  Free  Press,  in  1826  ;  and  the 
Michigan  Emigrant,  at  Ann  Arbor,  in  1827.  The  Michigan 
press  now  includes  673  periodicals,  of  which  44  are  daily  and 
53  monthly.  Twenty-five  of  these  are  devoted  to  religion, 
eleven  to  science,  seven  to  colleges,  and  a  dozen  or  more  to  the 
lumber  and  mining  interests.  Two  are  in  the  French  language, 
two  in  Finnish,  four  in  Swedish,  seven  in  Holland  Dutch,  and 
22  in  German. 

The  largest  of  the  public  libraries  are  those  of  Detroit, 
1 00,000  volumes;  Kalamazoo,  12,000;  Bay  City,  10,000;  Grand 

Rapids,  17,000;  and  West  Bay  City,  I2,OOO.  Hope  College  DETROIT:  YOUNG  MEN'S  CHRISTIAN 
has  30,000;  and  Olivet,  14,000;  and  the  State  and  University 

libraries  are  still  larger.  In  1890  Charles  H.  Hackley  presented  to  Muskegon  a  beautiful 
fire-proof  library  building,  of  Maine  granite  and  Marquette  brownstone,  with  many  thousand 
books,  the  gift  amounting  to  $175,000. 


The  Detroit 
building  of 
and  the  Opera 


DETROIT  I    THE   CITY    HALL. 


Museum  of  Art  keeps  its  rich  collections  in  a  handsome  Romanesque 
stone.  The  Ladies'  Library  at  Kalamazoo  has  attractive  quarters ; 
House  is  a  master- work  of  the  architects,  Adler  &  Sullivan. 

Chief  Cities. —  The  metropolis  of  Michigan  is  Detroit,  a  hand- 
some city  1 8  miles  from  Lake  Erie,  and  on  the  outlet  of 
the  upper  Great  Lakes,  with  a  good  harbor  and  an 
immense  maritime  and  railway  traffic,  mainly  in 
grain,  wool,  pork,  and  copper.  It  extends  along 
Detroit  River  (half  a  mile  wide)  for  seven  miles, 
facing  the  Canadian  village  of  Windsor.  Great 
public  buildings  adorn  the  city,  which  has  also  many 
important  factories.  It  ranks  as  one  of  the  five 
chief  lake-ports.  The  Harper  Hospital ;  the  sol- 


diers' monument,  designed  by  Randolph  Rogers,  and  built  at  a  cost  of  $60,000;  the  700- 
acre  park  on  Belle  Isle ;  and  the  Bagley  fountain  on  the  Campus  Martius,  from  which  the 
principal  avenues  radiate,  are  among  the  interesting  features  of  the  City  of  the  Straits. 
Fort  Wayne,  near  Detroit,  covers  an  area  of  65  acres  with  its  batteries  and  parade-ground, 
and  commands  the  river  with  heavy  ordnance.  It  is  occupied  by  a  small  garrison  of  United- 
States  troops.  The  United- States  Marine  Hospital  is  on  the  river-bank,  near  Detroit.  At 
Grand  Rapids  the  Grand  River  falls  18  feet  in  a  mile,  affording  a  valuable  water-power,  witl 


canals  on  each  side  and  many  busy  furniture  factories,  and  converging 
is  the  second  city  in  the  State,  with  50  churches,  and  the   United- 
for  Western  Michigan.    Lansing,  which  succeeded  Detroit  as  the  capi- 
a  small  manufacturing  city  on  both  sides  of  Grand  River,  with  sev- 
State  institutions.   Muskegon's  great  lumber-mills  and  pleasant  streets 
handsome  Muskegon  Lake,  four  miles  from  Lake  Michigan, 
and  on  several  railways.      Saginaw  is  the  capital  of  the 
Saginaw-Bay  lumber  and  salt  region,  and  has.  furniture 
and  other  factories  extending  for  a  league  along  the 
Saginaw  River,  and  producing  an  immense  revenue  every 
year.      Bay  City  and  West  Bay  City  lie  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Saginaw,  and  export  vast  quantities  of  salt,  lumber 
and  fish.      Port  Huron  is  a  ship-building  town,  opposite 
Port  Sarnia,  on  the  outlet  of  Lake  Huron,  with  large 


railroads.  I 
States  courts 
tal,  in  1847,  is 
eral  important 
lie  along  the 


DETKOll    ;    THE  SOLDIERS'    MONUMENT. 


THE  STATE   OF  MICHIGAN. 


415 


on  the  Kala- 
has  a  great 
railways. 
Ypsilanti  i  s 
is  a  1  umber - 


DETROIT  :    MICHIGAN    CENTRAL    RAILROAD    STATION. 


shipments  of  grain,  lumber  and  wool.  Ann  Arbor,  in  the  Huron  valley  of  southern  Mich- 
igan, is  the  seat  of  the  great  State  University.  Adrian,  on  the  Raisin,  is  also  a  college-town, 
and  the  manufacturing  and  trade  centre  of  a  rich  farming  country.  Battle  Creek  and  Albion, 
mazoo,  are  college  and  manufacturing  towns.  Flint,  on  Flint  River, 
water-power.  Jackson,  in  the  south  centre,  has  many  factories  and 
Kalamazoo  is  a  college-town,  with  a  considerable  country  trade, 
one  of  the  centres  of  the  southeastern  farming  country.  Alpena 
port,  at  the  head  of  Thunder  Bay. 

The  chief  ports  of  the  Lake-Michigan  shore  are 
St.  Joseph,  in  the  fruit-belt ;  Grand  Haven,  which 
also  has  prosperous  seasons  as  a  summer-resort ; 
Muskegon,  with  its  multiplying  industries  and  its 
factories  of  toys,  wooden-ware  and  pianos;  Trav- 
erse City,  with  lumber-mills  and  foundries,  and  a 
beautiful  bay  and  a  back  country  bright  with  many 
lakes ;  and  Petoskey,  with  a  considerable  patronage 
as  a  summer-resort,  being  one  of  the  places  exempt 
from  the  hay-fever,  and  near  famous  fishing-grounds  among  the  forest-lakes.  One  mile  north 
of  Petoskey,  on  high  ground,  with  long  pebbly  beaches,  is  the  great  Bay-View  Camp-ground, 
a  summer-resort  with  many  cottages.  The  chief  places  about  the  Straits  are  St.  Ignace,  with 

its  smelting-works  ;  Cheboygan,  a  lumber  port ;  and  Mackinac. 

Michigan  has  more  Canadians  (148,866)  and  more  Holland- 
ers (17,177)  than  any  other  State.  The  Indians  of  Michigan 
include  the  Vieux-Desert,  L'Anse  and  Ontonagon  bands  of  Chip- 
pewas,  on  the  Upper  Peninsula,  numbering  about  6, OCX);  600 
Chippewas  on  the  Isabella  Reservation,  near  Mt.  Pleasant ;  and 
the  Pottawattomies  of  Huron,  on  the  Lower  Peninsula. 

The  Finances  of  Michigan  mainly  centre  in  Detroit,  the 
metropolitan  city,  and  one  of  the  dozen  great  centres  of  the 
Republic.  Foremost  among  the  monetary  institutions  of  the 
State  stands  the  First  National  Bank  of  Detroit,  with  resources 
of  over  $4,000,000,  a  capital  of  $500,000,  and  surplus  and  un- 
divided profits  of  $200,000.  This  financial  corporation  dates 
from  1863,  and  was  re-incorporated  in  1882,  for  a  period  of  20 
years.  It  has  always  been  regarded  as  one  of  the  most  successful  and  conservatively  man- 
aged banks  in  the  Lake  States,  and  has  extended  timely  and  valuable  assistance  to  many 
enterprises  that  are  now  powerful  in  influence  and  wealth.  Emory  Wendell  is  the  president 
of  the  First  National  Bank ;  and  the  directorate  includes  men  who  have  large  fortunes,  and 
are  prominent  in  mercantile,  manufacturing  and  professional  pursuits  in  Detroit. 

Railroads. —  The  Detroit  &  St. -Joseph,  Detroit  &  Pontiac,  and  Michigan  Southern 
lines  were  chartered  here  in  1832;  and  a  few  years  later  the  State  began  the  building  of 
several  routes.  In  1836,  63  miles  were  built;  and  eight  years  later  the  Michigan  Central 

reached  Kalamazoo  (143  miles),  and  the  Mich- 
igan Southern  reached  Hillsdale  (66  miles), 
with  their  odd  little  stage-coach  cars  and  strap- 
rails.  After  the  State  became  financially  em- 
barrassed, its  railways  were  sold  to  private 
corporations,  which  have  advanced  the  system 
so  efficiently  that  80  out  of  the  84  counties 
are  now  on  their  lines,  the  total  cost  of  which 
amounts  to  $240,000,000.  In  1884  only  eight 
KALAMAZOO:  MICHIGAN-CENTRAL  RAILROAD  STATION.  out  of  60  Michigan  railways  paid  dividends. 


DETROIT:    FIRST  NATIONAL  BANK. 


ffJSfcr 


PORT    HURON   AND   THE   ST 


4I6  KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 

The  Lake  -  Shore  & 
Michigan  Southern 
and  the  Michigan  Cen- 
tral lines  are  parts  of 
the  great  transconti- 
nental systems,  be- 
tween the  Atlantic  sea- 
board and  Chicago, 
and  serve  large  areas 
of  southern  Michigan 
with  their  branches. 
The  Lake-Shore 
reaches  Grand  Rapids 
and  Lansing,  Jackson 

and  Ypsilanti,  Monroe  and  Detroit.  The  Michigan  Central  crosses  southern  Michigan  froi 
Chicago  to  Detroit,  Niagara  Falls,  Buffalo  and  the  East ;  and  has  branches  to  South  Haver 
Grand  Rapids,  Saginaw  and  the  North.  It  is  a  favorite  route  between  Chicago  and 
York,  with  swift  and  luxurious  trains.  The  Chicago  &  Grand  Trunk  Railway  joins  Chica 
with  the  Grand  Trunk  system  of  Canada,  at  Port  Huron,  and  has  subsidiary  lines  from  Jack- 
son and  Detroit  to  Port  Huron,  and  from  Detroit  west  across  the  Lower  Peninsula  to  Gram 
Haven  and  Muskegon.  There  are  several  important  north  and  south  lines, 
including  the  Michigan  Central  route  from  Detroit  to  Bay  City  and  Mackinac, 
on  the  east,  and  the  Grand-Rapids  &  Indiana  on  the  west  (from  Richmond  to 
Mackinac,  460  miles),  each  of  which  runs  north  to  the  Strait  of  Mackinaw. 
Several  lines  of  railway  cross  the  Lower  Peninsula  from  east  to  west,  and 
connect  the  ports  on  the  Great  Lakes.  The  Upper  Peninsula  is  trav- 
ersed by  the  Duluth,  South-Shore  &  Atlantic,  from  Duluth  east  to  Sault 
Ste. -Marie  (410  miles),  connecting  there  with  the  Canadian  Paci- 
fic route  for  New  England.  Branches  run  to  St.  Ignace,  on  the 
Strait  of  Mackinaw ;  and  to  Houghton,  on  the  Keweenaw  Penin- 
sula. The  Minneapolis,  St. -Paul  &  Sault- Ste. -Marie  line  runs 
from  Minneapolis  to  the  Soo  (494  miles),  connecting  there  with 
the  Canadian  Pacific.  Several  railways  coming  north  from  Chicago  intersect  these  two 
routes,  on  the  Upper  Peninsula.  The  railway  systems  of  Michigan  and  Canada  are  con- 
nected by  powerful  steam  ferry-boats  between  Detroit  and  Windsor.  The  tunnel  under  the 
St.  -Clair  River,  from  Port  Huron  to  Port  Sarnia,  the  only  iron  cylinder  tunnel  in  America, 
is  a  mammoth  iron  tube,  7,000  feet  long  and  20  feet  in  diameter,  built  in  sections  and  bolted 
together  as  fast  as  the  600  laborers  cut  their  way  forward,  from  both  ends,  through  the  stiff 
blue  clay.  It  is  lighted  by  electricity,  heated  by  steam-pipes,  and  kept  filled  with  pure  air 
by  powerful  engines.  This  greatest  river  tunnel  in  the  world  was  opened  in  1891. 

The  Manufactories  of  Michigan  are  9,000  in  number,  with  over  80,000  operatives, 
$100,000,000  in  invested  capital,  and  a  yearly  product  of  $150,000,000.  Thirty  million 
dollars  of  this  is  in  flour,  and  there  are  immense 
manufactories  of  walnut  and  other  furniture,  and 
of  iron  and  steel.  Among  the  interesting  manu- 
factures are  the  wooden  bowls  of  Bellaire,  the 
windmills  of  Lyons,  the  batting  of  Centreville,  the 
broom-handles  of  LeRoy,  the  pumps  of  Chelsea, 
the  corsets  of  Jackson,  the  wood  alcohol  of  Elk 
Rapids,  the  hammocks  of  Homer,  the  wooden- 
ware  of  Petoskey,  the  bee-hives  of  Wayland,  the 
wood-pulp  of  Utica,  the  toys  of  Muskegon,  the  KALAMAZOO  ;  AMERICAN  WHEEL  COMPANY. 


DETROIT  :     FIRE-ENGINE    HOUSE. 


THE  STATE   OF  MICHIGAN. 


417 


DETROIT  :    DETROIT    DRY-DOCK   COMPANY. 


veneers  of  St.  Ignace,  the  wheelbarrows  of  Lan- 
sing, the  wheels  of  Kalamazoo,  and  the  Belding 
Bros,  silk-mills,  at  Belding. 

The  important  industry  of  building  the  safe 
and  splendid  passenger  and  freight  steamships  for 
traffic  on  the  Great  Lakes  has  been  to  a  large  ex- 
tent developed  by  the  Detroit  Dry-Dock  Com- 
pany. The  ship-building  business  founded  in 
1852  by  John  Owen,  Capt.  Gordon  Campbell  and 
others,  was  incorporated  under  the  above  name 
in  1872,  and  does  a  business  of  $1,500,000  a  year, 
and  employs  800  men.  The  company  builds  and  equips  the  largest  steamers,  ready  for  sea- 
service,  usually  of  iron,  wood  or  steel,  and  with  triple- expansion  engines.  The  yards  for 
building  wooden  ships  cover  13  acres,  and  have  four  ..dry-docks,  the  chief  of  which  is  400 
feet  long.  A  wooden  vessel  was  built  here  298^  feet  long,  and  of  2,076  tons  burden,  with 
a  cargo-capacity  of  2,600  tons.  The  shipyards  at  Wyandotte  cover  eleven  acres,  and  have 
launchways  for  building  five  iron,  steel  or  composite  vessels.  One  of  the  steel  steamships 
constructed  here  (the  Maryland}  has  a  length  of  337  feet,  with  a  tonnage  of  2,500,  and  a 
cargo  capacity  of  3, 700  tons.  The  engine-works  cover  nearly  three  acres,  with  a  complete 
plant  for  building  marine  engines  and  boilers.  These  three  various  plants  are  operated 
from  the  company's  office  at  Detroit. 

The  railways  of  this  continent  employ  about 
1,100,000  freight  cars,  one  tenth  of  which  have 
to  be  replaced  every  year.  One  of  the  chief 
sources  of  supply  is  the  Michigan  Car  Company, 
founded  in  1864,  at  West  Detroit,  by  James  Mc- 
Millan (now  United-States  Senator).  '  The  first 
refrigerator-cars  came  from  these  works,  and 
three  fourths  of  the  cars  of  this  kind  in  use  are 
manufactured  here,  besides  box  and  flat  cars, 
coal  and  tank  cars,  ore  and  stock  cars,  snow- 
plows  and  cabooses,  to  the  number  of  nearly  10,000  a  year.  Repairs  are  also  made  here 
upon  cars  sent  in  from  all  the  country  bet  ween  Ohio  and  Wyoming.  The  Detroit  Car- Wheel 
Company,  with  substantially  the  same  stock -holders  and  officers  as  the  car  company,  has 
its  works  in  the  same  enclosure,  with  a  daily  capacity  of  425  cast-iron  wheels  and  100  tons 
of  other  castings.  Another  allied  corporation  is  the  Michigan  Forge  &  Iron  Company, 
whose  works  at  Spring  Wells  (Detroit)  turn  out  wrought-iron  bars  and  axles,  heavy  forg- 
ings,  and  links  and  pins,  mainly  used  by  the  car  company.  The  Detroit  Pipe  and  Foundry 
Company  make  cast-iron  water  and  gas  mains,  culverts  and  drainage  pipes ;  and  four  fifths 
of  the  cast-iron  lining  of  the  great  Detroit-River  Tunnel  at  Port  Huron  came  from  its 

works.  These  four  allied 
corporations  employ  3,000 
men,  and  produce  yearly 
$6,000,000  worth  of  cars 
and  specialties  for  the  rail- 
way companies. 

The  pretty  city  of  Beld- 
ing has  grown  up  around 
the  Belding  silk-mills,  one 
of  the  extensive  establish- 
ments of  Belding  Bros.  & 
DETROIT  ;  MICHIGAN  CAR  COMPANY.  Company. 


WYANDOTTE  :    DETROIT   DRY-DOCK   COMPANY. 


4i8 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE    UNITED   STATES. 


BISSELL   CARPET-SWEEPER    COMPANY. 


Four  fifths  of  the  carpet-sweepers  made  in  the  world 
come  from  the  Bissell  Carpet- Sweeper  Company's  factories 
at  Grand  Rapids,  founded  by  Melville  R.  Bissell  in  1876. 
These  works  employ  300  hands,  making  daily  1, 200 
sweepers,  which  are  sold  all  over  the  Union,  and 
from  the  company's  ware-rooms  in  London  and. 
Paris,  and  agencies  in  22  foreign  countries.  This] 
is  by  far  the  foremost  corporation  of  the  kind  in 
the  world,  and  maintains  a  department  of  inven- 
tion, to  which  is  due  the  many  patents  and  devices^ 
constantly  originated  and  made  practical  in  this; 
business.  Since  Mr.  Bissell  founded  the  company, 
the  carpet-sweeper  has  developed  from  a  mechanical  brush,  of  little  value  except  for  picking 
up  crumbs  and  light  dirt,  to  a  mechanical  broom,  less  laborious  in  operation  than  the  old 
methods  of  sweeping,  and  more  effective  and  desirable.  The  famous  broom  action,  invented 
in  1880,  with  its  thorough  work  on  every  kind  of  carpet,  has  advanced  the  Bissell  Carpet- 
Sweeper  Company  to  an  unapproachable  supremacy,  recognized  by  all  house-keepers ;  and  the 
products  now  number  over  a  hundred  varieties  of  styles  and  constructions,  finish  and  devices. 
In  Detroit  are  the  main  laboratories  and  home  offices  of  Parke,  Davis  &  Company, 
manufacturing  chemists  and  pharmacists.  Their  branch  establishments  are  at  New  York, 
Kansas  City,  London,  England,  and  Walkerville,  Ont.  Their  products  are  adopted  by  the 
medical  profession  throughout  the  world.  The  Detroit  establishment  covers  over  five 
acres  of  floor  space  and  gives  employment  to  some  7°°  educated  people.  Their  laboratories 
form  one  of  the  finest  manufacturing  plants  in  America,  and  the  extensive  group  of  handsome 
brick  buildings  comprises  one  of  the  most  notable  sights 
in  Michigan.  From  a  very  modest  beginning  this  has 
grown  to  be  an  enterprise  of  the  first  magnitude ;  the 
corporation  having  a  paid-up  capital  of  $1,00x3,000. 
The  secret  of  its  growth,  which  is  phenomenal,  even 
when  compared  with  any  manufacturing  business,  lies  in 
three  fundamental  principles  ;  the  superior  quality  and 
uniformity  of  its  products ;  its  devotion  to  the  mutual 

interests  of  pharmacists  and  physicians ;  and  its  enter-  DETROIT  :   PARKE,  DAVIS  &  co. 

prise  in  investigating  new  drugs,  eligible  forms  of  exhibiting  old  remedies,  and  improved 
processes  of  manufacture.  These  investigations  have  resulted  in  bringing  to  the  attention 
of  the  medical  profession  many  indispensable  remedies,  permanently  placed  in  the  pharma- 
copoeias of  America  and  Great  Britain.  Parke,  Davis  &  Co.'s  specialties  include  pharma- 
ceutical preparations,  fine  chemicals,  digestive  ferments,  empty  capsules  and  other  gelatine 
products,  pressed  herbs,  and  the  superior  food  products  of  the  Mosquera-Julia  Food  Co. 

"  Its  borders  are  so  many  vast  prairies,  and  the  freshness  of  the  waters  keeps  the  banks 
always  green.  The  hand  of  the  pitiless  reaper  has  never  mown  the  luxuriant  grass  upon 
which  fatten  many  buffaloes  of  magnificent  size  and  proportion.  The  fish  are  here  nour- 
ished and  bathed  by  living  waters  of  crystal  clearness,  and  their  great  abundance  renders 

them  none  the  less  delicious.  I  asked  a  savage  if  there 
was  much  game  there.  'So  much,'  he  said,  'that  they 
drew  up  in  lines  to  let  the  boats  pass  through.'" — CAD- 
ILLAC, ON  MICHIGAN. 

Distances  between  Lake  Ports :  Detroit  to 
Saginaw  River,  207  miles  ;  Mackinac,  303  ;  Milwaukee, 
569  ;  Chicago,  634 ;  Sault  Ste.  Marie,  345  ;  Marquette, 
504 ;  Duluth,  742 ;  Toledo,  57 ;  Cleveland,  105  ;  Buf- 
falo, 255;  Montreal,  629. 


BELDING:    BELDINQ  BROS.  &  co.'s  SILK-MILL. 


Mini?E5o 


172,023 
439,706 


776,884 
3,889 
513,097 
267,676 
419,149 
361,624 
1,301,826 
e,        9.8 
213,485 
142,492 
104  385 


The  aborigines  of  Min- 
nesota were    the   Chippe- 

was,  occupying  more  than 

half  the  State,  in  its  forest 

and  lake  regions  ;  and  the 

Dakotas    (latterly     called 

Sioux),  roaming   over  the 

open  prairies.     The  Chip- 

pewas  were  woods  Indians, 

with  canoes ;  the  Dakotas 

were  plains  Indians,  with  ponies.  The  two  nations  were 
hereditary  enemies,  and  the  Upper  Mississippi  Valley  was 
the  debateable  ground  between  them.  Their  local  names, 
Winona,  Mendota,  Anoka,  Wapashaw,  Kasota  and  many 
others,  are  their  imperishable  memorials  in  the  valley  of  the 
Mississippi.  The  Dakotas  were  divided  into  the  Isanyati, 
Ihanktonwan  (Yankton),  and  Titonwan  clans.  The  Assih- 
inboines,  along  the  Rainy  River,  broke  off  from  their  Dakota 
brethren,  as  a  result  of  an  ancient  Paris  and  Helen  tragedy, 
and  remained  their  inveterate  enemies.  The  religious  rites 
and  beliefs,  the  legends  and  traditions,  of  the  Dakotas  are 
of  singular  interest,  and  have  inspired  a  large  body  of  lit- 
erature. The  first  white  visitors  to  these  shores  were 
French  fur-traders,  who  came  hither  as  early  as  1659. 
They  were  followed  by  missionary  priests,  who  laid  down 
their  lives  gladly  for  their  holy  cause,  but  made  no  impres- 
sion on  the  fierce  Northwestern  savages.  In  1679  Du  Luth 
established  the  first  trading-posts  in  Minnesota ;  planted 
the  royal  arms  of  France  among  the  Sissetpn  Sioux  ;  and 
visited  Mille  Lacs.  In  1680  Father  Hennepin  and  two 
French  traders  ascended  the  Mississippi  to  St. -Anthony's 
Falls  ;  and  they  were  borne  thence  to  the  Dakota  villages 
near  Mille  Lacs.  In  1688  Perrot  founded,  on  Lake  Pepin, 
the  first  French  establishment  in  Minnesota;  and  thereafter, 
for  nearly  80  years,  the  missionaries  and  traders  of  France  visited  the  Upper  Mississippi,  and 
dwelt  in  little  forts  between  Lake  Superior  and  the  great  river.  After  France  surrendered 
its  vast  American  empire  to  Great  Britain,  an  adventurous  Connecticut  man,  Jonathan 


Settled  at  .... 
Settled  in  .... 
Founded  by  ... 
Admitted  as  a  State, 
Population  in  1860, 
In  if 


Fort  Snelling. 
.  .  1819 
Americans. 


1870,    . 

In  1880 

White 

Colored 

American-born,     .     .     . 
Foreign-born,    .... 

Males. 

Females, 

In  1890  (U.  S.  Census),  .  . 
Population  to  the  square  mi 
Voting  Population  (1880),  . 

Vote  for  Harrison  (1888), 

Vote  for  Cleveland  (1888), 
Net  State  Dtbt,  .... 
Assessed  Valuation  of 

Property  (1890),  .  .  $589,000,000 
Area  (square  miles),  .  .  .  83,365 
U.  S.  Representatives  (1893),  7 

Militia  (Disciplined),       .     .         1,907 

Counties, 80 

Post-offices, 1,309 

Railroads  (miles),   ....         5,466 
Vessels, r  ,  89 

Tonnage, 9,  "591 

Manufactures  (yearly),      $76,065,198 

Operatives, 21,212 

Yearly  Wages,  .  .  .  $8,613,194 
Farm  Land  (in  acres),  .  13,403,019 

Farm-Land  Values,       $193,724,260 

Farm  Products  (yearly),  $49,468,951 
Public  Schools,  Average 

Daily  Attendance,  .     .     .     111,641 

Newspapers, 476 

Latitude,    ....    43°3o'  to  49°  N 

Longitude,       .     .    89*29 

Temperature, 

Mean   Temperature  (St 


30'  to  49"  ii . 
j'  to  97°5'  W. 

—54°  to  103° 
t.  Paul),  42° 


TEN   CHIEF   CITIES  AND  THEIR   POP- 
ULATIONS (CENSUS  OF  1890.) 

Minneapolis, 164,738 

St.  Paul, 133.  J56 

Duluth, 33,  U5, 

Winona 

Stillwater, 

Mankato, 

St.  Cloud, 

Faribault, 

RedWing, 

Brainerd, 


11,260 

6,520 
6,294 

5,703 


420 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


LAKE    MINNETONKA. 


Carver,  ascended  the  Mississippi  to  the  falls  (in  1766), 
and  sojourned  among  the  Dakotas  on  the  Minnesota 
River.  During  most  of  the  remainder  of  the  cen- 
tury the  country  was  occupied  by  the  fur-trading  posts 
of  the  Northwestern  Company.  Minnesota  was  made 
up  of  two  sections.  The  part  east  of  the  Mississippi 
belonged  to  New  France,  discovered  and  owned  by 
the  French,  and  ceded  to  Great  Britain  in  1 763.  A 
vast  area  of  this  domain,  along  the  Ohio,  was  con- 
quered by  George  Rogers  Clark,  in  1778,  and  annexed 
to  Virginia,  which  ceded  it  to  the  United  States,  under  the  name  of  "The  Territory  North- 
west of  the  River  Ohio,"  in  1784.  The  part  of  Minnesota  west  of  the  Mississippi  belonged 
to  the  province  of  Louisiana,  and  remained  nominally  under  French  rule  until  1763,  when 
it  was  ceded  to  Spain,  and  pertained  to  that  Government  for  40  years.  In  1803  it  passed 
into  the  possession  of  the  United  States,  by  virtue  of  the  Louisiana  Purchase  from  France 
(to  which  it  had  been  retroceded). 

The  first  United- States  officer  to  visit  Minnesota  was  Lieut.  Zebulon  M.  Pike,  who 
came  hither  in  1805,  to  expel  the  lingering  British  traders;  and  obtained  from  the  Sioux  a 
grant  of  nine  miles  square,  including  the  site  of  Fort  Snelling  and  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony. 
The  country  remained  in  the  hands  of  the  fur-traders  and  the  Indians  until  1820,  when 
Col.  Leaven  worth  and  the  Fifth  United- States  Infantry  built  Fort  Snelling,  and  Gov.  Lewis 
and  Henrv  R.  S~*r^o1  craft  explored  the  valley.  Three  years  later,  the  first  steamboat 
(the  Virginia)  ascended  the  Mississippi  into  Minnesota, 
and  frightened  all  the  Indians  out  of  Mendota  ;  and  Maj. 
Long's  detachment  explored  the  Minnesota  valley,  to 
Big- Stone  Lake;  and  Count  Beltrami  discovered  the 
source  of  the  Mississippi.  In  1832  the  Rev.  Wm.  T. 
Boutwell  opened  a  mission  among  the  Chippewas  ;  and 
in  1834  H.  H.  Sibley  settled  at  Mendota.  In  1836-7  the 
region  of  St.  Paul  received  its  first  settlers,  a  group  of 
Swiss  colonists,  retreating  from  the  inclement  Hudson's-Bay  Terri- 
tory, where  they  had  been  planted  by  the  eccentric  Lord  Selkirk. 
In  1836  Nicollet,  a  Swiss  scientific  person,  encamped  three  days  at 
Lake  Itasca,  and  explored  and  mapped  all  its  inlets.  In  1834 
Samuel  W.  and  Gideon  H.  Pond  began  their  mission-work,  at  Lake  Calhoun ;  followed, 
the  next  year,  by  Dr.  T.  S.  Williamson,  at  Lac  qui  Parle.  Stephen  R.  Riggs  came  in  1837. 
In  those  days  there  were  myriads  of  buffalo  in  Minnesota,  and  the  red  hunters  pursued  them 
undisturbed  over  the  immeasurable  prairies.  In  1850  the  Minnesota  Historical  Society 
began  its  noble  labors  ;  and  the  steamers  Anthony  Wayne  and  Nominee  ascended  the  Min- 
nesota River  nearly  to  Mankato,  followed  by  the  Yankee,  which  went  nearly  to  New  Ulm. 
Meantime,  the  Sioux  and  Chippewas  had  been  killing  each  other  off,  as  the  result  of  a  feud 
extending  back  for  centuries  ;  and  those  spared  by  the  toma- 
hawk had  been  decimated  by  famine  and  small-pox.  As  the 
white  settlements  advanced  up  the  great  river,  the  domains 
of  the  savages  were  bought  up  by  the  Government,  and  the 
fragments  of  the  tribes  receded  toward  Dakota. 

The  population  rose  from  4,000  in  1849  to  172,000  in 
1860 ;  and  the  cultivated  area  from  15,000  acres  in  1854  to 
433,000  acres  in  1860.  The  troops  sent  by  Minnesota  into 
the  late  civil  war  included  1 1  regiments  and  I  battalion  of 
infantry,  I  regiment  of  heavy  artillery,  2  regiments  and  2 
battalions  of  cavalry,  3  batteries,  and  2  companies  of  ^RN  BLUFF ;  MISSISSIPPI  RIVER. 


FORT    SNELLING. 


THE  STATE   OF  MINNESOTA. 


421 


?  sharpshooters,  numbering  in  all  25,052  men. 
In  1862,  when  the  army  garrisons  and  5,000  of 
the  able-bodied  men  of  Minnesota  were  cam- 
paigning in  the  South,  the  Sioux  broke  into  re- 
bellion, and  inside  of  two  days  cruelly  killed 
800  whites  in  the  State.  Fort  Ridgely  and 
New  Ulm  repulsed  the  savages,  and  Col.  Sibley 
entered  the  devastated  country  with  a  strong 
column  of  volunteers,  defeating  the  Sioux  at 

Wood  Lake,  and  rescuing  1 50  white  captives,  who  had  already  suf- 
fered unspeakable  outrages.  Four  hundred  red  warriors  became 
prisoners,  and  38  of  them  were  hung  on  one  scaffold,  at  Mankato.  A 
subsequent  campaign,  carried  into  Dakota,  completed  the  terrible  work  of  punishment. 

In  its  Territorial  days  Minnesota  issued  bonds  to  a  large  amount  in  aid  of  railway  con- 
struction. The  companies  defaulted  payment,  and  the  State  turned  the  plants  over  to  other 
corporations.  But  the  bonds  remained  to  be  paid,  and  the  questions  of  how  or  whether  to 
pay  them  were  the  chief  local  topics  for  many  years.  A  popular  vote  in  1882  arranged  for 
a  sinking-fund  to  meet  this  $4,000,000. 

The  Name  Minnesota  comes  from  the  Dakota  language,  Minne  signifying  "Water." 
Sotah  means  "Blear,"  or,  as  the  Historical  Society  explains  it,  the  peculiar  appearance  of 
the  sky  on  certain  days,  neither  white  nor  blue,  giving  the  name  of  the  State  as  "Sky- 
tinted  Waters. "  It  was  originally  applied  by  the  Dakotas  to  the  Minnesota  River.  At- 
.  tempts  were  made  to  have  the  State  named  Chippeway,  Itasca,  Washington,  or  Jackson. 
The  pet  names  of  Minnesota  are  THE  NORTH-STAR  STATE,  from  the  motto  on  its  seal ; 
The  Gopher  State,  because  it  used  to  be  infested  with  these  animals ;  and  The  Lake  State, 
from  its  myriad  of  interior  lakes. 

The  Arms  of  Minnesota  were  devised  by  Gov.  Ramsey  and  Henry  H.  Sibley,  in 
1849-50.  They  bear  :  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony  in  the  distance;  a  pioneer  ploughing  the 
prairie  on  the  borders  of  the  Indian  country,  full  of  hope  and  looking  forward  to  the  pos- 
session of  the  hunting-grounds  beyond ;  an  Indian,  amazed  at  the  sight  of  the  plough,  and 
fleeing  on  horseback  toward  the  setting  sun.  The  motto  was  Quce  sursum  volo  videre,  ' '  I 
wish  to  see  what  is  above  ; "  but  this  was  wrecked  into  incomprehensibility  by  an  ignorant 
engraver  ;  and  subsequently  the  phrase,  DEtoile  du  Nord,  "The  Star  of  the  North,"  was 
adopted  in  its  place,  by  Gov.  Sibley,  on  account  of  the  north- 
erly location  of  the  State  in  the  Union. 

The  Governors  of  Minnesota 
have  been  :  Territorial :  Alex.  Ram- 
sey, 1849-53 ;  Willis  A.  Gorman, 
1853-7;  Samuel  Medary,  1857-8; 
State:  Henry  H.  Sibley,  1858-60; 
Alex.  Ramsey,  1860-3 ;  Henry  A. 
Swift,  1863-64 ;  Stephen  Miller,  1864 
-6;  Wm.  R.  Marshall,  1866-70; 
Horace  Austin,  1870-4;  Cushman  K. 
Davis,  1874-6;  John  S.  Pillsbury, 
1876-82;  Lucius  F.  Hubbard,  1882 
-7  ;  Andrew  R.  McGill,  1887-9  >  and 
Wm.  R.  Merriam,  1889-93. 

Descriptive. —  Minnesota  is  one 
of  the  northern  tier  of  States,  reach- 
ing up  to  the  49th  parallel,  and 
bounded  beyond  by  the  Canadian 


WINONA.       SUGAR    LOAF.       MISSISSIPPI    RIVER,   FROM    FORT   SNELLING. 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


provinces  of  Manitoba  and  Keewatin.  The  Dakotas 
lie  along  its  western  border,  and  Iowa  on  the  south ; 
and  the  east  rests  on  Wisconsin  and  Lake  Superior.  It 
covers  an  area  much  greater  than  that  of  New  Eng- 
land, mainly  an  undulating  plain  from  800  to  1,000 
feet  above  the  sea.  The  centre  and  south  are  rolling 
prairies,  beautiful  with  flashing  lakes  and  silvery 
streams.  In  the  eastern  part  of  this  prairie  country,  WHITE-BEAR  LAKE. 

the  long  strip  of  the  Big  Woods,  covering  5,000  square  miles,  runs  south  from  St.  Cloud 
to  Le  Sueur,  where  it  crosses  the  Minnesota,  and  sends  branches  toward  Faribault  and 
Mankato.  It  is  100  miles  long,  and  from  ten  to  40  miles  wide,  and  four  fifths  of  it  lies 
north  of  the  Minnesota.  This  great  belt  of  hardwood  timber  is  one  of  the  most  valuable 
deciduous  forests  in  the  West.  The  Park  region  lies  above  the  Big  Woods,  with  a  vast 
area  of  undulating  prairie,  agreeably  diversified  with  oak -groves  and  shining  lakes,  and 
melting  away  into  the  Red-River  prairies.  The  Heights  of  Land  {Hauteurs  des  Terres\ 
are  a  line  of  flat-topped  sandhills,  from  400  to  600  feet  above  the  prairies,  separating  the 
Mississippi  waters  from  those  flowing  to  Lake  Superior.  The  Leaf  Mountains  (Coteau  du 
Grand  Bois}  run  150  miles  south  from  this  ridge,  near  Lake  Itasca,  1,400  feet  high.  North 
of  the  line  of  Duluth  and  Moorhead  a  great  belt  of  pine-woods  extends  from  Lake  Superior 
across  the  sources  of  the  Mississippi  to  the  Red  River.  Beyond  the  prairies,  to  the  north- 
ward, a  lofty  wilderness  of  tamaracks  and  stunted  pines 
separates  the  Mississippi  and  Rainy-Lake  valleys.  High 
granite  hills  follow  the  Lake- Superior  coast  ;  and  in 
this  northeastern  region  are  vast  swamps  of  wild  rice, 
cranberries  and  hemlocks.  In  a  general  way,  there- 
fore, the  State  is  divided  into  the  northern  slope,  or 
Red-River  and  Rainy-Lake  region,  with  rich  prairies 
on  the  west,  and  heavy  timber  on  the  east ;  the  south- 
ern slope,  or  Mississippi  Valley,  occupied  by  rolling 
prairies  and  woods  ;  and  the  21,000  square  miles  of  the 
eastern  slope,  abounding  in  forests,  and  with  valuable 

mineral  resources.  The  Mississippi  Valley  occupies  two  thirds  of  the  State,  falling  1,000 
feet  from  Lake  Itasca  to  the  Iowa  line,  in  a  gentle  slope  of  three  feet  to  a  mile.  In  the  lower 
part  of  this  incline  the  scenery  is  very  attractive,  with  groves  and  copses  and  oak-openings 
sprinkled  over  the  undulating  grassy  plains.  From  the  great  central  plateau  of  Minnesota 
the  Mississippi  begins  its  course  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  the  Red  River  of  the  North  starts 
for  Hudson  Bay,  and  the  uppermost  of  the  Great  Lakes  turns  its  crystal  tides  toward  the 
Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  and  the  misty  North  Atlantic.  The  water- 
sheds of  these  three  of  the  noblest  river-systems  in  the  world  trav- 
erse the  State  in  every  direction,  their  long  broken  ridges  rising 
from  1,000  to  1,800  feet  above  the  sea.  There  are  1,532  miles  of 
navigable  waters  in  Minnesota,  on  which  ply  over  100  vessels,  aside 
from  the  lake  and  river  steamers  enrolled  at  outside  ports. 

The  Mississippi  River  rises  in  Lake  Itasca,  amid  the  wooded 
hills  of  northern  Minnesota,  1,575  feet  above  tidewater.  Here  it 
has  a  width  of  twelve  feet,  and  a  depth  of  two  feet,  and  sweeps 
around  a  great  curve,  northeast,  east,  south  and  southwest.  After 
traversing  Pemidji  Lake  it  is  I2O  feet  wide,  and  beyond  Cass  Lake 
it  reaches  172  feet.  The  United  States  has  built  four  large  reser- 
voirs, at  a  cost  of  above  $600,000,  at  Cross  Lake,  Winnibigoshish 
Lake  and  elsewhere,  resulting  in  benefit  to  navigation,  and  partly 
VERMILION  FALLS.  averting  floods.  The  head  of  navigation  on  the  Mississippi  River 


THE  STATE   OF  MINNESOTA. 


423 


FALLS    OF    MINNEHAHA. 


is  at  the  Falls  of  Pokegama,  near  Leech  River,  and  270  miles 
from  the  source.  In  the  next  200  miles  below  there  is  an  aggre- 
gate fall  of  165  feet,  chiefly  at  Sauk  Rapids  and  Little  Falls, 
except  for  which  the  stream  is  navigable  400  miles  above  Minne- 
apolis, for  small  steamers.  The  only  stretch  now  navigated  is  the 
165  miles  from  Aitkin,  on  the  Northern  Pacific,  north  to  Grand 
Rapids,  where  three  steamboats  ply  up  and  down,  with  supplies 
for  the  lumber-camps.  The  shores  are  bold  and  rocky  below 
Sauk  Rapids,  70  miles  from  which  the  stream,  now  grown  to  a 
breadth  of  1,200  feet,  thunders  over  St. -Anthony's  Falls.  Sixty 
miles  further  on  its  way  to  the  Gulf  the  Mississippi  broadens  to 
from  one  to  three  miles,  for  a  length  of  25  miles  ;  and  this  beau- 
tiful expanse  is  known  as  Lake  Pepin.  Among  the  legend- 
haunted  localities  on  its  shores  are  Maiden's  Rock,  the  Sugar 
Loaf,  the  Robbers'  Cave,  and  Point  au  Sable,  once  the  site  of  a 
French  border-fortress.  Frontenac  is  one  of  the  favorite  sum- 
mer-resorts of  the  Northwest,  and  overlooks  Lake  Pepin  and  a  succession  of  rocky  bluffs 
and  golden  grain-fields,  melting  away  into  the  far-extending  prairies.  The  Mississippi, 
when  it  leaves  Minnesota,  is  a  noble  river,  half  a  mile  wide  and  from  five  to  20  feet  deep ; 
and  has  afforded  540  miles  of  navigable  waters  within  her  boundaries.  In  its  lower  course, 
the  stream  winds  from  side  to  side  of  the  beautiful  valley,  which  is  bordered  by  fine  lime- 
stone cliffs,  overhung  by  green  domes  of  foliage  and  the  gleam-flitted  corn-ocean  of  summer. 
Numberless  islands  part  the  crystal  waters,  some  of  them  large  enough  for  cultivation,  and 
others  mere  bouquets  of  trees  and  shrubbery.  It  is  one  of  the  fairest  river-vistas  in  America, 
and  delights  the  eyes  of  thousands  of  tourists  every  summer. 

The  region  about  the  sources  of  the  Mississippi  was  explored  by  Schoolcraft,  in  1832, 
and  Nicollet,  in  1836  ;  and  minutely  surveyed  by  U.-S.  Land-Office  engineers  in  1875.  The 
beautiful  Itasca  Lake,  several  miles  long,  has  always  been  regarded  as  the  source  of  the 
Mississippi.  A  few  rods  from  Itasca  is  a  higher  tributary  pond  of  200  acres,  shown  on 
Schoolcraft's  and  Nicollet's  maps,  and  named  Elk  Lake  by  the  U.-S.  Land-Office.  49  years 
after  the  discovery  of  this  pond,  and  long  after  its  shores  had  been  surveyed  by  the  engineers, 
and  its  name  given,  Glazier  visited  it.  An  attempt  (foj  some  time  successful)  to  re-name 
it  Lake  Glazier  was  defeated  by  the  Legislature,  which  re-affirmed  to  title  Elk  Lake,  ordering 
that  no  school-book  should  be  authorized  in  which  any  other  name  appeared. 

The  Minnesota  River  rises  on  the  Coteau  des  Prairies,  and  flows  440  miles  to  the  Miss- 
issippi, at  Fort  Snelling.  In  high  water  steamboats  have  ascended  for  238  miles  to  Granite 
Falls.  Fifteen  miles  from  its  source  the  Minnesota  widens  into  Big-Stone  Lake,  stretching 
for  30  miles  along  the  Dakota  frontier,  and  much  frequented  in  summer  by  yachtsmen  and 
fishermen.  The  Red  River  of  the  North  rises  in  Elbow  Lake,  and  down  to  Breckenridge, 
200  miles  below,  it  is  generally  known  as  the  Otter-Tail  River.  In  and  along  Minnesota's 
prairies  it  flows  for  over  500  miles,  through  a  level  belt  of  rich  alluvial  mould  40  miles  wide, 
peculiarly  adapted  for  the  cultivation  of  wheat.  Nominally,  Breckenridge,  400  miles  from 
the  Canadian  frontier,  is  the  head  of  navigation,  but  steamboats  rarely  ascend  beyond  Fort 

Abercrombie,  26  miles  below.  Far  to 
the  north  the  Red  River  pours  into 
Lake  Winnipeg  through  six  mouths, 
in  a  lonely  land  of  marshes,  and  ulti- 
mately its  waters  enter  the  icy  tides  of 
Hudson  Bay.  The  St.  -Croix  River  is 
ascended  by  steamboats  as  far  as  Tay- 
lor's Falls  (52  miles);  and  the  St.- 
DETROIT  LAKE.  Louis  has  21  miles  navigable. 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 


MINNEAPOLIS  :    THE    POST-OFFICE. 


The  Falls  of  Minnehaha,  made  forever  famous  by  Long- 
fellow's Hiawatha  song,  are  near  Fort  Snelling,  on  the 
little  stream  flowing  from  Lakes  Harriet  and  Calhoun, 
two  pretty  suburban  resorts  for  the  people  of  St.  Paul  and 
Minneapolis.  The  falls  are  59  feet  high,  amid  great  beauty 
of  woodland  scenery,  and  although  there  is  but  little  water 
the  delicate  lace-like  effect  of  the  cascade  makes  a  fine 
contrast  with  the  enwalling  gorge  and  the  overhanging 
birch-trees.  Near  Grand  Portage  the  Pigeon  River  falls 
144  feet  in  a  course  of  1,200  feet,  between  the  lofty  per- 
pendicular walls  of  a  rocky  gorge.  The  Falls  of  St. 
Croix  occur  in  a  canon  of  trap-rock  1 50  feet  deep.  There 
are  picturesque  cascades  on  the  Vermilion,  Kettle,  Kaw- 
imbash  and  many  other  streams.  Near  St.  Paul  is  Car- 
ver's Cave,  where  Jonathan  Carver  made  a  treaty  with  the  Sioux,  in  1767  ;  and  two  miles 
above  the  city  the  dark  halls  of  Fountain  Cave  enter  the  bluffs  for  over  1,000  feet,  and  are 
traversed  by  a  murmuring  stream.  Nicollet,  the  explorer,  named  the  Park  region  Undine, 
on  account  of  its  everywhere-present  lakes  and  streams.  The  lakes  are  10,000  in  number, 
of  all  shapes  and  sizes,  and  covering  4,160  square  miles.  They  were  left  here  when  the 
continental  ice-sheet  melted,  in  deep  basins  scooped  out  by  the  glaciers.  Their  waters  are 
clear,  cold  and  crystalline,  revealing  clean  pebbly  bottoms,  and  lapsing  gently  against  rocky 
shores,  over  which  wave  the  long  grasses  of  the  prairies,  or  the  foliage  of  the  northern 
forests.  Besides  their  great  beauty  in  the  landscape,  and 
their  value  for  fishing,  these  myriad  lochs  serve  a  useful 
purpose  in  modifying  the  temperature.  They  abound  in 
trout,  pike,  pickerel,  cat-fish,  sunfish,  perch,  rock  bass, 
black  bass  and  other  valuable  fish ;  and  the  neighboring 
forests  contain  deer,  bears,  wolves,  foxes,  lynxes,  beaver, 
mink,  musk-rats,  otter,  game  birds  and  water-fowl. 
Among  the  chief  of  these  lakes  are  Leech  Lake,  of  194 
square  miles;  Mille  Lacs,  198;  Red,  342;  Winnibigoshish,  78;  and  Vermilion,  63.  On 
the  north  frontier  lie  Rainy  Lake  (146  square  miles)  and  the  Lake  of  the  Woods  (612  square 
miles),  most  of  whose  waters  and  shores  belong  to  Canada.  Steamboats  ply  on  Rainy 
Lake  and  River,  the  latter  of  which  descends  in  100  miles  to  the  Lake  of  the  Woods,  whose 
outlet  is  to  the  Winnipeg  River.  Both  these  lakes  have  many  wooded  islands  and  pictur- 
esque bays,  and  shores  in  part  marshy  and  abounding  in  wild  rice.  Lake  Minnetonka 
stretches  its  network  of  many  bays  amid  the  Big  Woods,  15  miles  southwest  of  Minneapo- 
lis, and  is  fringed  with  summer-resorts,  and  traversed  by  pleasure-steamboats.  White- 
Bear  Lake,  four  miles  long,  is  a  favorite  summer-home  for  St.  -Paul  families,  with  hotels 
and  villas  overlooking  its  sandy  beaches  and  sky-tinted  water  and  forested  islands.  Many 
handsome  yachts  fly  over  this  forest-fringed  loch,  which  abounds  in  fish.  Northeast  from 
Duluth  the  iron-bound  coast  of  Lake  Superior  trends  away  for  167  miles,  before  it  reaches 

the  Canadian  frontier,  at  Pigeon  River.  There  are  but 
few  inhabitants  along  this  stormy  shore,  where  huge 
cliffs  of  greenstone  and  porphyry  face  the  perpetual 
assaults  of  the  waves.  Near  Baptism  River  the  Pali- 
sades rise  in  singular  columns  of  rock,  from  50  to  80  feet 
high,  and  from  one  to  six  feet  in  diameter. 

Climate — The  summer  resembles  that  of  Philadel- 
phia, as  to  its  hot  days,  but  the  nights  are  cool  and  re- 
freshing,  owing  to  the    high    altitude.      Maury  praised 
MINNEAPOLIS  ;  PUBLIC  LIBRARY.  "  the  steel-blue  night  skies  of  Minnesota,  so  brilliant  and 


MINNEAPOLIS  \    CEMETERY    LODGE. 


THE  STATE   OF  MINNESOTA. 


425 


MINNEAPOLIS  I      EXPOSITION    BUILDING. 


lovely."  The  winters  are  severe,  but  with  a  dry  and 
bracing  air  which  enables  people  to  bear  their  rigors 
with  comfort.  Proctor  Knott  said  that  the  winters 
of  Duluth  froze  the  smoke-stacks  off  the  locomotives. 
The  temperature  of  Fort  Snelling  is  similar  to  that  of 
Montreal,  Plattsburgh,  the  Berkshire  Hills  and  the 
Aroostook  Country,  but  with  less  than  half  as  much 
snow.  The  winter  has  a  comparatively  light 
snowfall,  which  grows  heavier  in  February  and 
March,  followed  by  a  rapid  change  to  the  flow- 
ers of  spring.  The  mean  temperature  south  of 
Moorhead  and  Duluth,  and  of  the  Red-River 
country  up  to  Pembina,  is  40°  ;  that  of  the  northern  sections  is  36°.  The  healthfulness  of 
this  climate  has  for  many  years  been  recognized,  and  even  pulmonary  complaints  are  bene- 
fited by  it.  The  larger  proportion  of  the  winter  days  are  bright  and  still,  and  a  tempera- 
ture of  —20°  brings  no  great  hardship.  But  on  the  few  winter  days  when  high  winds  are 
added  to  low  temperature,  much  suffering  may  result,  unless  shelter  is  found. 

Farming. —  The  soil  of  southern  and  central  Minnesota  is  a  deep  grayish-brown  or 
black  sandy  loam,  from  two  to  five  feet  deep,  rich  in  organic  matter  and  stimulating  mineral 
salts,  and  endowed  with  untiring  durability.  West  of  the  Mississippi  extend  large  areas  of 
rich  limestone  soil,  with  argillaceous  earth  along  the  Red  River.  Extensive  swamps  enfold 
the  head-lakes  of  the  Mississippi,  and  fill  broad  areas  in  the  northeast.  The  extreme  north 
is  for  the  most  part  rocky  and  barren  and  unfit  for 
cultivation.  In  1880  11,000,000  acres  had  not 
been  surveyed,  and  over  20,000,000  still  remained 
in  the  hands  of  the  Government.  Three  fourths 
of  this  is  arable  land.  The  wheat-crop  rarely 
fails,  and  its  area  is  continually  expanding,  espec- 
ially along  the  Red-River  Valley  and  the  Northern 
Pacific  Railroad.  The  hard  spring  wheat  of  this 
region  is  the  best  in  the  world,  and  produces  the  finest  flour.  The  production  of  wheat  has 
exceeded  55,000,000  bushels  in  a  year;  of  oats,  52,000,000  bushels;  of  corn,  22,000,000 
bushels ;  of  barley,  9,000,000  bushels.  This  rich  northwestern  garden  is  prolific  also  in 
flaxseed,  buckwheat,  rye,  potatoes,  and  many  varieties  of  apples,  grapes,  strawberries  and 
other  fruits.  Only  one  fifth  of  the  tillable  soil,  or  one  eighth  of  the  soil  of  the  State,  is 
under  cultivation,  and  vast  areas  still  invite  the  immigrant.  After  1873  the  exclusive  rais- 
ing of  wheat  gave  place  to  a  more  diversified  farming,  with  a  larger  attention  to  stock-rais- 
ing. Minnesota  has  316,000  horses,  771,000  cattle,  275,000  sheep,  and  410,000  swine.  In 
a  single  year  the  product  of  butter  has  exceeded  15,000,000  pounds,  and  that  of  cheese  has 
passed  1,500,000  pounds. 

Half  of  Minnesota  rests  under  the  shadow  of  forests,  and  extensive  lumbering  operations 
have  been  carried  on  along  the  upper  Mississippi  and  St.-Croix  and  their  tributaries,  and  on 
the  St. -Louis.     The  State  has  produced  in  a  year  472,000,000  feet 
of  sawed  lumber  and  180,000,000  shingles.      The  Mississippi  Val- 
ley, north  of  Minneapolis,  usually  produces  180,000,000  feet 
of  lumber  yearly.     In  the  year  1880  there  were  standing 
6, 100,000,000  feet  of  white  pine  ;  and  the  hardwood  forests 
then  covered  3,840,000  acres.      Large  premiums  have  been 
given  for  tree-planting  on  the  prairies,  for  wind-breaks  and 
woodlands;  and  30,000,000  trees  have  been  set  out  in  the 
open  country. 

The  lumber  of  the  St. -Cloud  region  and  other  broad 


MINNEAPOLIS  :    THE    UNIVERSITY    OF    MINNESOTA. 


426 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UN f  TED   STATES. 


MINNEAPOLIS  :    LUMBER    OF    N.     P.     CLARKE    &    CO. 


areas  of  woodlands  is  handled  mainly  by  the 
firm  of  N.  P.  Clarke  &  Co.,  who  often  have  at 
one  time  stocks  valued  at  above  half  a  million 
dollars,  in  lumber  and  logs.  This  firm  has  its 
offices  in  the  grand  Lumber  Exchange,  at 
Minneapolis,  and  conducts  a  large  and  increas- 
ing business  in  connection  with  the  forest  pro- 
ducts of  northern  Minnesota,  so  greatly  in  de- 
mand in  the  treeless  prairie  States  to  the  west- 
ward. Large  areas  of  pine  lands  are  owned  or 
controlled,  and  employ  700  men,  getting  out  from  60,000,000  to  90,000,000  feet  of  lumber 
every  year.  N.  P.  Clarke  &  Co.  are  the  leading  house  in  the  lumber  trade  of  Minnesota. 
Mr.  Clarke  is  also  well-known  as  the  largest  holder  of  improved  farm-property  in  Minne- 
sota, one  of  his  estates,  near  St.  Cloud,  having  an  area  of  4,000  acres.  In  these  broad 
domains  he  raises  many  blooded  cattle  and  horses,  chiefly  as  a  diversion,  although  it  has 
also  proved  to  be  a  profitable  business. 

Mining. — The  great  iron  mines  of  the  Vermilion  and  Mesabi  Ranges,  about  100  miles 
north  of  Duluth,  are  among  the  productive  points  of  an  ore-field  extending  from  the  fron- 
tier past  Ely  and  Tower  to  the  Mississippi.  It  is  a  soft  ore,  sometimes  yielding  67  per  cent, 
of  iron,  and  so  low  in  phosphorus  as  to  come  within  the  Bessemer  limit.  More  than 

i    500,000  tons  are  sent  out  yearly  by  the  Minnesota 

Iron  Company  alone,  and  in  1890  870,000  tons, 
valued  at  $3,000,000,  were  shipped  from  Two 
Harbors,  a  port  northeast  of  Duluth. 

The  pioneer  in  mining  in  the  rich  Vermilion 
Range  is  the  Minnesota  Iron  Company,  incorpor- 
ated in  1882,  and  with  an  authorized  capital  of 
$20,000,000,  of  which  $14,000,000  are  paid  in. 
The  mines  are  near  Lake  Vermilion,  100  miles 
north  of  Duluth,  and  near  them  the  city  of  Tower 
and  the  village  of  Soudan  have  sprung  up.  Begin- 
ning operations  in  1884,  this  powerful  company  has 
advanced  to  a  point  where  it  mines  and  ships  yearly  more  than  500,000  tons  of  hard  red 
hematite  ore,  very  rich  in  metallic  iron,  and  for  the  most  part  within  the  Bessemer  limit  of 
phosphorus.  The  mines  are  worked  throughout  the  year,  employing  nearly  1,200  men.  and 
provided  with  a  plant  including  mining  and  ore-raising  machinery,  with  offices  and  shops, 
homes  for  the  men,  and  a  well-equipped  hospital  and  school-house.  The  Duluth  &  Iron- 
Range  Railroad,  carrying  the  ore  to  the  port  of  Two  Harbors  (20  miles  from  Duluth),  and 
The  Minnesota  Steam-Ship  Company,  with  six  large  steel  vessels,  are  closely  connected  with 
the  Minnesota  Iron  Company.  Four  fifths  of  the  ore  goes  to  the  furnaces  in  Pennsylvania, 
New  York  and  Ohio,  and  the  balance  is  used  at  Chicago.  The  lake-region  in  the  vicinity 
of  Tower  is  picturesque,  and  is  becoming  a  favorite 
resort  for  sportsmen  and  summer-campers. 

Among  Minnesota's  building-stones  are  the 
pink  limestone  of  Kasota,  the  cream  limestone  of 
Red  Wing  and  Faribault,  the  dolomite  of  Roches- 
ter, and  the  white  stone  of  Kasson.  Fine  glass- 
sand  abounds  around  Faribault ;  and  the  clay  of 
Austin  and  Albert  Lea  is  used  by  many  brick- 
yards. In  the  northeast,  near  Fond  du  Lac  and 
Sandstone,  there  are  quarries  of  brownstone,  em- 
ploying many  hundred  men.  Mankato  has  exten-  TOWER  :  MINNESOTA  IRON  co. 


TOWER  I    MINNESOTA    IRON    CO. 


THE  STATE   OF  MINNESOTA. 


427 


sive  quarries ;  and  its  mills  send  out  8,000  car-loads 
of  cement  yearly,  besides  great  quantities  of  drain- 
tile  and  sewer-pipe,  brick,  and  fire-brick.  St. 
Cloud  has  a  score  of  quarries  of  fine  gray,  white 
and  red  granite,  from  which  have  been  obtained 
the  materials  for  the  Pioneer-Press  and  New- York 
Life  buildings  at  St.  Paul,  the  Minneapolis  Li- 
brary, and  other  important  structures.  Luverne, 
in  the  remote  southwest,  has  quarries  of  red  jasper 
(quartzite),  locally  used  in  building,  and  when  TOWER  :  MINNESOTA  IRON  co. 

polished  rivalling  Mexican  onyx  in  beauty.  The  Great  Red  Pipestone  Quarry,  where  the 
opening  scenes  of  Longfellow's  Hiawatha  occur,  is  near  Pipestone  City,  in  southwestern 
Minnesota.  Here  the  Coteau  des  Prairies  rises  450  feet  above  the  surrounding  country, 
and  2,000  feet  above  the  sea,  and  preserves  this  height  for  130  miles,  overlooking  the 
treeless  plains  until  in  the  remote  distance  the  living  green  of  the  land  meets  the  blue  of 
the  sky.  The  stone  is  near  the  crest  of  this  mound-ridge,  in  a  grassy  valley  overlooked  by 
remarkable  cliffs ;  and  this  is  the  only  place  in  the  world  where  it  is  found.  It  is  a  com- 
pact blood-red  stone,  easily  carved  and  susceptible  of  a  dull  polish  ;  and  pipes  from  this 
material  have  been  found  as  far  away  as  New  York  and  Georgia.  The  Indian  tribes  used 
to  come  to  the  quarry  every  year  and  dig  for  the 
precious  pipe-stone,  dwelling  in  peace  with  each 
other  while  in  this  holy  land. 

The  Population  is  made  up  of  two  different 
elements,  the  descendants  of  the  early  settlers,  com- 
ing largely  from  New  England,  and  the  more  recent 
migrations  of  Swedes  and  Norwegians,  Danes  and 
Russians,  Icelanders  and  Lapps, -and  other  hardy 
race's  from  Northern  Europe.  Near  New- York  Mills 
dwell  4,000  Finns,  preserving  their  strange  Tartar 
language  and  literature,  and  supporting  the  news- 
paper called  Amerikan  Suometar  (Finnish- Ameri- 
can). The  Indian  population,  once  so  powerful, 
has  ceased  to  be  of  account.  The  Sioux  have  been 
pushed  across  the  Dakota  border  and  their  old  land  knows  them  no  more.  In  the  north 
are  9,000  or  more  of  the  inteiesting  Chippewa  tribe,  scattered  in  bands  among  the  lakes, 
and  taught  by  Catholic  and  Episcopal  missionaries.  The  Chippewas  in  1889  were  per- 
suaded to  sell  their  great  reservations  at  Red  Lake,  Mille  Lacs,  Vermilion  Lake  and  else- 
where, receiving  lands  in  severalty,  and  surrendering  their  tribal  relations.  The  lands  are 
to  be  sold  by  the  United-States  Government,  and  the  proceeds  placed  in  the  Treasury, 
bearing  interest  at  5  per  cent.,  which  is  to  be  paid  out  for  and  to  the  Indians. 

Government. — The  Governor  and  executive  officers  are  elected  by  the  people  every  two 
years.     The  legislature  includes  54  senators  and  1 14  representatives,  and  meets  biennially. 

The  judges  are  elected  by  the  people.  Women  vote, 
and  may  hold  office  in  school  affairs.  The  National 
Guard  of  Minnesota  includes  two  regiments  of  in- 
fantry, of  ten  companies  each,  a  battery  of  artillery 
and  a  troop  of  cavalry.  There  is  also  the  Third 
Regiment  of  infantry,  armed  but  not  otherwise  main- 
tained by  the  State,  being  composed  of  ten  inde- 
pendent companies.  The  State  campground  is  near 
Lake  City,  and  has  rifle-ranges  and  other  military 
MOORHEAD;  STATE  NORMAL  SCHOOL.  accessories. 


TWO  HARBORS:  MINNESOTA  IRON  co. 'S  DOCKS. 


428 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


The  Minnesota  Institute  for  Defectives,  at  Faribault,  in- 
cludes the  school  for  the  deaf  (150  inmates),  the  school  for 
the  blind  (45),  and  the  school  for  feeble-minded  (300).  The 
State  Public  School  for  Dependent  Children  was  founded 
in  1885  at  Owatonna.  The  State  Prison,  at  Stillwater,  has 
400  convicts,  and  200  empty  cells.  The  State  Reformatory  FARIBAULT  :  SHATTUCK  SCHOOL. 
was  erected  in  1888-9,  on  the  heights  over  St.  Cloud,  and  has  inexhaustible  quarries  of 
granite  on  its  grounds.  The  State  Reform  School  for  boys  and  girls  is  at  St.  Paul.  The 
hospitals  for  the  insane,  at  St.  Peter,  Rochester,  and  Fergus  Falls,  have  2,400  inmates. 
The  State  Soldiers'  Home  was  opened  in  1887,  m  a  park  of  51  acres  given  by  Minneapolis, 
on  the  beautiful  point  at  the  junction  of  the  Mississippi  River  and  Minnehaha  Creek,  and 
contiguous  to  the  great  city  parks.  The  twelve  handsome  brick  cottages,  administration 
building,  hospital  and  chapel,  some  of  which  are  already  constructed  and  occupied,  will 
have  cost  over  $250,000,  making  the  finest  State  home  for  veterans  in  America.  The 
Soldiers'  Orphans'  Home  is  at  Winona. 

Education  is  carefully  looked  after,  and  wisely  and  liberally  administered.  The 
Minneapolis  high-schools  have  manual  training  shops.  The  amount  expended  yearly  is 
above  $4,000,000;  and  the  school-fund  amounts  to  nearly  $9,000,000,  and  will  be 
$20,000,000  when  all  the  land  has  been  sold.  The  normal  schools  at  Mankato,  Winona, 
Moorhead  and  St.  Cloud  have  800  students.  The  University  of  the  State  of  Minnesota 

was  decreed  in  1857  and  opened  in  1869,  endowed  by  the 
United  States  and  supported  by  the  State.  The  buildings 
stand  on  a  bluff  in  an  undulating  and  wooded  park 
of  45  acres,  a  mile  below  and  in  full  view  of  the 
Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  at  Minneapolis.  There  are 
seven  substantial  structures,  with  adequate  muse- 
ums and  a  library  of  24,  ooo  volumes.  No  provision 
is  made  for  dormitories.  The  University  has  over 
I, ooo  students  (one  fifth  of  them  women),  of 
whom  580  are  in  the  college  of  literature  and 
mechanic  arts;  130  in  the  schools  of  agriculture, 
art  and  practical  mechanics;  125  in  the  law-school;  and  125  in  the  medical  and  dental 
schools.  There  are  also  40  graduate  students.  The  faculty,  instructors  and  lecturers  num- 
ber 1 08.  The  students  form  a  battalion  of  infantry,  with  a  uniformed  company  of  girls, 
drilled  in  military  exercises  daily,  and  commanded  by  an  officer  of  the  United- States  army. 
The  drill-hall  is  one  of  the  largest  in  America,  and  occasionally  >  serves  the  pur- 
pose of  an  assembly-hall,  seating  3,500  persons.  The  experimental  d&isi  farm  of  the  Agri- 
cultural College  is  two  miles  from  the  University,  near  Lake 
Como,  and  occupies  250  acres.  Carleton  College  was  opened 
at  Northfield  in  1867,  by  New-England  Congregation  - 
alists,  to  be  a  great  Christian  school  for  the  Northwest. 
It  has  six  good  buildings,  19  instructors  and  67  students 
(besides  196  preparatory).  The  college  observatory  is 
one  of  the  best  in  America,  and  furnishes  the  standard 
time  for  the  Minnesota  railroads.  Warner  &  Swasey,  of 
Cleveland  (Ohio)  designed  and  built  the  1 6-foot  equato- 
rial telescope,  the  3O-foot  steel  dome,  and  also  the  1 7-foot 
steel  dome.  The  Sidereal  Messenger,  a  monthly  maga- 
zine of  astronomy,  is  published  here.  The  Bishop- 
Seabury  Mission,  at  Faribault,  is  the  outgrowth  of 
a  parish  school  founded  by  Rev.  Dr.  J.  L.  Breck, 
in  1858,  and  includes  the  Seabury  Divinity  School, 


ST.     PAUL  :    CONVENT   OF   THE    GOOD    SHEPHERD. 


THE   STATE   OF  MINNESOTA. 


429 


MINNEAPOLIS  : 
STONE  ARCH  BRIDGE  OF   THE   GREAT  NORTHERN  RAILWAY. 


with  eight  instructors  and  30  students  in  holy 
orders.  The  Shattuck  School,  founded  in  1868, 
as  a  grammar-school,  is  named  for  Dr.  G.  C. 
Shattuck,  of  Boston,  one  of  the  chief  benefac- 
tors of  the  Faribault  Episcopal  institutions.  It 
is  one  of  the  best  training-schools  for  boys,  and 
has  several  costly  stone  buildings,  and  a  beauti- 
ful memorial  chapel,  in  a  park  of  1  50  acres  on 
the  high  bluff  overlooking  the  Cannon  Valley. 
The  Bishop  of  Minnesota  is  chancellor  of  trie 
school.  The  students  are  uniformed  like  West- 
Point  cadets,  and  form  a  battalion  of  four  companies  and  an  artillery  platoon,  commanded 
by  a  regular-army  officer.  St.  -Mary's  Hall  is  another  Episcopal  institution,  occupying  a  com- 
manding estate  of  ten  acres  near  Faribault,  with  the  buildings  of  a  well-sustained  training- 
school  for  girls.  The  Albert-Lea  College  for  girls  is  a  successful  Presbyterian  institution  on 
the  shores  of  the  beautiful  Fountain  Lake,  1,300  feet  above  the  sea.  St.-OlaPs  School,  of 
the  Norwegian  Lutherans,  occupies  a  beautiful  estate  of  five  acres,  on  Manitou  Heights,  near 
Northfield.  The  Presbyterians  conduct  Macalester  College,  at  St.  Paul,  with  25  collegiate 
students  ;  and  the  Methodists  have  for  nearly  40  years  supported  Hamline  University,  near 
St.  Paul,  which  has  50  collegiates.  The  Benedictine  monks  maintain  St.  -John's  University, 
at  Collegeville,  with  1  8  instructors  and  151  students.  There  is  also  an  ecclesiastical  depart- 
ment here,  with  35  students.  The  Lutheran  Augsburg  Seminary  is  at  Minneapolis  ;  and  the 

Norwegian  Evangelical  Lutheran  Seminary  is  at 
Red  Wing.  Minnesota  also  has  several  medical 
schools  and  colleges  of  pharmacy,  dentistry  and 
veterinary  science. 

Religion  is  strongly  entrenched  among  the 
Minnesotans,  whose  North-European  and  New- 
England  settlers  brought  their  Bible  and  rituals  to 
these  virgin  prairies.  The  Lutherans  and  Catho- 

fog  each  daim  more  than    IOO)OOO  adherents  ;    the 

Methodists  have  300  churches  and  25,000  members  ;  and  the  Baptists,  Presbyterians,  Epis- 
copalians and  Congregationalists  have  from  6,000  to  10,000  members  each. 

Newspapers.  —  Nine  days  after  the  news  of  the  existence  of  the  Territory  of  Minne- 
sota had  been  received  here,  James  M.  Goodhue,  an  Amherst  graduate,  landed  at  St.  Paul 
with  a  printing-press,  and  began  the  issue  of  the  Pioneer  April  28, 
1849.  At  that  time  Minnesota  had  fewer  than  5,000  inhabiants,  of 
whom  840  lived  at  St.  Paul. 

Among  the  great  newspapers  of  the  northwest,  whose  enthusi- 
astic and  untiring  work  has  done  so  much  toward  the  develop- 
ment of  Minnesota,  none  stands  higher  than  the  Minneapolis 
Tribune.  This  journal  issues  morning  and  evening,  weekly  and 
Sunday  editions,  from  its  stately  new  building,  erected  in  1890. 
Its  expenses  are  nearly  $1,000  a  day;  and  the  employes  number 
210  in  the  building,  and  300  correspondents.  The  capital  stock 
of  $500,000  is  held  by  Ex-U.  S.  Senator  Gilbert  A.  Pierce,  for 
•four  years  Governor  of  Dakota,  and  editor-in-chief  of  the  Chicago 
Inter-Ocean  for  seven  years  ;  and  W.  J.  Murphy.  Pierce  is  the 
editor,  and  Murphy  the  manager.  The  Tribune  Company  owns 
both  the  Associated-Press  and  United-Press  franchises  for  Min- 
neapolis. This  is  the  only  high-tariff  paper  in  the  Northwest,  MINNEAPOLIS  • 

and   fights    sturdily  for  protection.      There   is   hardly   a   hamlet      THE  MINNEAPOLIS  TRIBUNE. 


NORTHFIELD  :     CARLETON-COLLEGE    OBSERVATOR 


43° 


XING' S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 


MINNEAPOLIS  : 

GUARANTY    LOAN    BUILDING. 

NORTHWESTERN    MILLER  "    OFFICE. 


C 1^1     between  Lake  Michigan  and  the  Rocky  Mountains  which  has 
jftpjg  not  its  Tribune  correspondent,  always  eager  to  send  the  fullest 

and  most  accurate  local  news  to  the  high-towered  headquarters 
aalgBi  at  Minneapolis.      It  has  probably  the  best  constituencies  that 

can  be  obtained  in  its  section  of  the  United  States. 

The  foremost  flour-manufacturing  city  in  the  world  is  also^ 
the  seat  of   the  chief  journal  of   the  milling  business,    The\ 
Northwestern  Miller,  founded  in  1873,  as  a  monthly  magazine, 
and   changed    soon   after    to    a  weekly.      Nine  years    later  it: 
passed  into  the  hands  of  C.  M.  Palmer,  who  associated  with! 
himself  W.  C.  Edgar  as  business  manager.     Thenceforward  the! 
paper  rapidly  outstripped  all  the  other  flour  trade-journals,  and . 
won  a  high  repute  for  honesty  of  purpose  and  independence  ofj 
character,  with  a  great  and  unique  influence,  and  a  circulation^ 
in  all  countries  where  flour  is  made  or  sold.      It  is  regarded  as. 
an  authority  among  millers ;  and  does  a  yearly  business  equal 
to  that  of  all  the  other  American  milling  journals  combined. 
Its  holiday  numbers  have  a  world-wide  celebrity,  for  typo- 
graphical beauty  and  intrinsic  value,  and  contain  special  con- 
tributions from  many  of  the  best -known  writers.      The  success  of  the  paper  is  largely  due 
to  its  holding  itself  as  the  champion  of  its  readers,  and  not  the  paid  retainer  of  its  ad- 
vertisers ;    and  this  independence,    so  uncommon  in  trade- 
journals,  is  re-enforced  by  great   editorial  ability  and  vigil- 
ance.     Its  exquisite  advertising  pages  often  indicate   how 
admirably  high  art  can  be  used  "to  advantage  by  its  patrons. 
The  Nation  says  that  St.  Paul  is  "for  at  least  one  intel- 
lectual purpose,  the  capital  of  the  United  States  "  ;  and  that 
purpose  is  the  continuous  and  current  publication  of  the  de- 
cisions of  the  National  and  State  courts  of  law,  opening  to 
the  bar  of  each  commonwealth  a  compendious  knowledge  of 
the  jurisprudence  of  the  whole  country.     This  great  work  is' 
in  the  hands  of  the  West  Publishing  Company,  founded  in 
1876  by  the  two  brothers,  John  B.  and  Horatio  D.  West,  as  a 
progressive  law-book  house,  and  incorporated  in  1882.     The 
capital  is  $350,000 ;  the  employes  number  400  ;  and  the  plant 
includes  a  huge  and  massive  new  eight-story  brick  building  at  St.  Paul,  containing  com-  J 
plete  printing  and  book-binding  establishments  and  plate-vaults.      This  is  the  home  of  the 
National-Reporter  system,   consisting  of  ten  separate  publications   (published   in  weekly  I 
parts,  immediately  after  the  filing  of  the  decisions),   one  to  the  United- States  Supreme  ; 
Court,  one  to  the  other  Federal  courts,  seven  to  the  decisions  of  the  higher  courts  in  the  ' 
various  sections  of  the  Republic,  and  one  to  the  intermediate  courts  of  New- York  State. 
These  always  fresh  reports  are  given  in  law-book  form,  from  official  copies,  with  all  neces-  •;] 
sary  editorial  work,  and  copious  annotations,  and  correlated  [ 
by  careful  indexes  and  digests.     They  include  about  15,000  , 
judicial    decisions   yearly,    covering   all    American   case-law]  | 
bringing  every  new  precedent  promptly  before  bench  and  bar,  ; 
and  thus  tending  to  secure  a  greater  harmony  and  unity  in  « 
American  jurisprudence.     The  West  Publishing  Company  of  I 
St.   Paul  are  to-day  the  largest  law-publishers  in  the  world, 
and  their  reports  form  an  essential  part  of  every  American  j 
lawyer's  library,  and  an  invaluable  treasury  of  modern   juris-  ; 
ST.  PAUL  :  THE  WEST  PUBLISHING  co.    prudence. 


PAUL   : 
THE    WEST    PUBLISHING    CO. 


the  most 
by  1880 
latter  had 


UTH  I     CHAMBER    OF   COMMERCE. 

surroundings,  and  blest 


THE  STATE   OF  MINNESOTA.  43I 

Chief  Cities. — The  metropolitan  centre  of  the  Northwest  is  at  the  dual  cities  of 
St.  Paul  and  Minneapolis.  St.  Paul,  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Mississippi,  num- 
bered 20,000  inhabitants  in  1870;  and  Minneapolis  and  St.  Anthony,  across  the 
river  from  each  other,  had  respectively  13,000  and  5,000  inhabitants.  After  I  the  discov- 
ery of  the  "new  process"  of  making  flour,  which  made  Minnesota  wheat 
valuable  in  the  world,  St.  -Anthony's  Falls  were  lined  with  huge  mills,  and 
Minneapolis  had  46,887  people,  to  41,473  in  St.  Paul.  By  1885,  the 
111,397,  and  Minneapolis  kept  forging  ahead,  with  129,200. 
The  twin  cities  have  grown  towards  each  other  until  they 
have  practically  joined,  and  their  united  population  finds 
but  half  a  dozen  larger  municipalities  in  America.  In  their 
churches  and  schools,  public  institutions  and  commercial 
buildings,  dwellings  and  stores,  they  compare  favorably  with 
any  cities  on  the  continent  ;  and  their  system  of  parks  is  one 
of  the  largest  and  most  attractive  in  the  world.  St.  Paul, 
the  capital  of  Minnesota,  stands  on  a  series  of  terraces  over 
the  Mississippi  River,  and  is  the  focus  of  immense  railway 
systems,  extending  in  every  direction,  and  the  centre  of  a  tre-  Du 
mendous  wholesale  and  retail  trade.  Beautiful  in  situation  and 
with  an  invigorating  climate,  this  northern  capital  has  drawn  to  its  gates  an  enterprising 
and  cultivated  population.  The  manufacturing  output  of  St.  Paul  amounts  to  $52,000,000  a 
year.  The  meat-packing  and  slaughtering  business  of  the  city  exceeds  $10,000,000  yearly. 
It  has  large  distilleries,  and  many  diversified  industries,  with  numerous  important  firms  in 
the  wholesale  and  jobbing  business.  St.  Paul  was  named  in  honor  of  the  Apostle  of  Nations, 
by  Father  Gaultier,  a  French  Catholic  priest,  who  erected  a  little  log  church  here  in  1841. 
The  group  of  bark-thatched  log-huts  near  this  site  had  previously  been  known  as  Pig's  Eye, 
from  a  one-eyed  Canadian  rum -seller,  who  came  here  in  1838.  Among  the  imposing  edifices  of 

.    St.  Paul  are  the  State 

House,  the  high-tow- 
ered City  Hall,  the 
first-class  buildings  of 
the  Pioneer-Press  and 
Globe  newspapers,  and 
the  New- York  Life- 
insurance  Company's 
headquarters.  From 
time  tb  time  St.  Paul 
celebrates  the  advent 
of  its  northern  winter 
by  a  wonderful  ice- 
carnival;  constructing 
a  huge  palace  of  ice, 
with  towers  and  tur- 
rets and  bastions,  illuminated  at  night  by  electric  lights,  and  surrounded  by  thousands  of 
people  in  brilliant  blanket-costumes  of  red  and  white,  blue  and  yellow.  Toboggan  and 
snow-shoe  clubs  make  merry  through  the  long  January  evenings ;  and,  finally,  the  great 
castle  of  ice  is  stormed  by  torch-bearing  columns  of  these  gaily  uniformed  organizations, 
and  the  Ice-King  yields  to  the  Fire-King. 

Minneapolis  occupies  both  sides  of  the  Mississippi,  the  east  side  being  the  site  of  the 
older  St.  Anthony.  Three  thousand  men  work  in  the  railroad  shops,  2, 500  in  the  iron- 
works, and  15,000  in  other  manufacturing  industries.  The  great  lumber-mills  have  made 
r  340,000,000  feet  of  lumber  in  a  year.  The  Falls  of  St.  Anthony  (named  by  Father 


ST.    PAUL   AND   THE    MISSISSIPPI    RIVER,    FROM    DAYTON'S    BLUFF. 


43  2 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 


MINNEAPOLIS  : 
NEW-YORK    LIFE-INSURANCE    CO. 


Hennepin,  in  1680,  for  St.  Anthony  of  Padua)  have  a  descent 
of  25  feet,  with  57  feet  more  in  the  rapids  above.  The  Miss- 
issippi here  flows  over  ledges  of  limestone,  resting  on  crumb- 
ling sandstone  :  and  in  order  to  prevent  the  destruction  of  the 
falls  by  erosion,  a  costly  inclined  plane  (or  apron)  of  timber  has 
been  built,  with  a  concrete  bed  under  the  channel.  The  first 
settler  in  this  region  came  in  the  winter  of  1849-50.  The  name 
of  the  city  is  a  remarkable  compound  of  the  Sioux  word 
Minne,  "  Water, "  and  the  Greek  word  polls,  "city."  Among 
its  notable  constructions  are  the  Court  House  and  City  Hall, 
being  erected  at  a  cost  of  $2, 500,000,  and  adorned  with  a  noble 
Gothic  tower  ;  the  West  Hotel,  the  Masonic  Temple,  the  New- 
York  Life-insurance  Company's  building,  the  wonderful  curv- 
ing arched  bridge  of  masonry  across  the  Mississippi,  the  hand- 
some fire-proof  Public  Library  and  Art  Museum,  of  red  sand- 
stone; and  the  fine  bridge  across  the  Mississippi  River,  built 
in  1888  by  the  Keystone  Bridge  Company  (who  also  constructed  the  Chicago,  Milwaukee  & 
St.  -Paul  Railway  bridge  at  St.  Paul).  Minneapolis  is  the  great  flour-making  city  of  the  world, 
with  more  than  a  score  of  mills,  whose  capacity  is  38,000  barrels  a  day.  The  Red- River  wheat 
is  here  converted  into  the  finest  flour  anywhere  to  be  found,  and  its  chief  market  is  in  Europe, 
over  300  miles  of  laden  freight-cars  leaving  the  city  every  year.  In  a  single  year  Minne- 
apolis has  received  50,000,000  bushels  of  wheat,  being  a  greater  quantity  than  that  which 
went  to  Chicago,  Duluth  or  New  York.  The  product  of  flour  has  exceeded  7,000,000 
barrels  in  a  year.  The  entire  American  pro- 
duct is  85,000,000  barrels  a  year,  valued  at 
$400,000,000;  and  it  maybe  that  this  is  the 
foremost  industry  of  the  Republic. 

The  Pillsbury-Washburn  Flour  Mills  Com- 
pany,    Limited,    is  an   English    corporation, 
formed  in  1889,  witn  a  capital  of  ,£1,000,000, 
and  with  its  financial  headquarters  in  Lon- 
don.    It  succeeded  to  the  business  of  C.  A. 
Pillsbury  &  Co.,  and  the  Washburn  Mill  Com- 
pany, and  controls  the  Minneapolis  Mill  Com- 
pany, the  St.  -Anthony  Falls  Water-power  Company,  the  Minneapolis  &  Northern  Elevator 
Company,  and  the  Atlantic  Elevator  Company.     The  plant  includes 
the  Pillsbury  A  and  B,  Palisade,  Anchor  and  Lincoln  Mills,  thn 
large  elevators  in  Minneapolis,  2OO  country  elevators,  and  all  th< 
water-power  at  Minneapolis.     Employment  is  given  to  1,200  men  J 
and  the  yearly  capacity  is  4,000,000  barrels  of  flour,  176,000,000 
pounds  of  bran,  45,000,000  pounds  of  middlings,  and  35,000,000 
pounds  of  screenings.       The   mills   grind   every   year  17,000,000 
bushels  of  spring  wheat ;  and  the  Pillsbury  A  mill  has  the  greates 
capacity  of  any  flour-mill  in  the  world,  reaching  7, 200  barrels  a  day. 
The  five  mills  have  a  capacity  of  14, 500  barrels  a  day,  and  300  car 
are  required  daily  to  take  wheat  in  to  them,  and  to  remove  the  floui 
and  waste.     For  these  properties  was  paid  $6,250,000,  three  fourths 
in  cash,  and  the  rest  in  securities.     Charles  A.   Pillsbury  is  tl 
managing  director  of  this  colossal  system,  whose  well-known  bn 
of   "Pillsbury's  Best"  flour  is  a  favorite  with  housewives  every - 
ST.  PAUL:  where.     This  is  the  largest  milling  plant  in  the  world,  and  its  pn 

NEW-YORK  LIFE-INSURANCE  co.  duct  is  sold  wherever  flour  is  used. 


THE  STATE  OF  MINNESOTA. 


433 


MINNEAPOLIS  :      THE    WASHBURN-CROSBY    COMPANY 
THE    "  WASHBURN  "    FLOURING    MILLS. 


Much  of  the  best  patent  spring-wheat  flour  in 
the  world  is  made  by  the  Washburn-Crosby 
Company,  occupying  and  operating  the  great 
mills  founded  in  1866,  at  Minneapolis,  by  Cad- 
wallader  C.  Washburn,  ex-Governor  of  Wiscon- 
sin. The  plant  is  one  of  the  largest  in  the  world, 
and  includes  three  mills  and  two  elevators,  with 
ten  acres  of  floor  space,  where  500  men  and  a 
great  quantity  of  ingenious  machinery  reduce  the 
wheat  of  Minnesota  and  the  Dakotas  to  flour,  by 
the  French  high  grinding  process  and  the  Hun- 
garian roller  process.  The  capital  paid  in  is  $1,500,000;  and  the  daily  capacity  of  the 
Washburn  A,  B  and  C  mills  is  9,000  barrels  of  the  finest  and  best  flour.  The  Washburn 
A  mill  is  said  to  be  the  largest  in  the  world,  and  occupies  the  site  of  the  mill  destroyed 
in  1878,  when  18  lives  were  lost,  and  six  mills  destroyed,  by  an  explosion  of  flour-dust. 
The  new  mill  is  one  of  the  strongest  and  best  appointed  in  America,  and  has  a  dust-house 
absolutely  safe  from  explosions.  The  Washburn-Crosby  Company's  representative  brands 
(Washburn's  Superlative  and  Washburn's  Gold  Medal  flour)  command  higher  prices  than 
any  other  brands  in  the  market,  and  are  sold  all  over  the  world. 

The  famous  house  of  F.  H.  Peavey  &  Co.,  wholesale  grain  merchants,  was  founded  at 
Sioux  City,  Iowa,  in  1874,  by  Frank  H.  Peavey,  and 
now  employs  435  men.  It  ranks  in  volume  of  business 
at  the  head  of  all  the  American  firms  in  this  line,  and 
has  risen  with  great  rapidity  to  this  commanding  place. 
The  assets  exceed  $1,000,000.  The  total  elevator  stor- 
age capacity  actually  owned  or  directly  controlled  is 
10,000,000  bushels,  and  includes  the  great  terminal 
elevators  at  Minneapolis,  Kansas  City  (Mo.),  Washburn 
(Wis.),  and  Portland  (Ore.),  besides  200  country  eleva- 
tors along  the  railways  leading  to  those  points.  Their 
Interior  Elevators  at  Minneapolis,  with  a  capacity  of 
1,500,000  bushels,  are  among  the  largest  in  the  State,  and  their  Duluth  Elevator  Com- 
pany's system  of  connected  elevators  at  West  Superior  (Wis.),  with  a  capacity  of  5,000,000 
bushels,  is  the  largest  of  its  kind  in  the  world.  The  house  buys  all  kinds  of  grain  direct 
from  the  farmers  in  nine  States,  and  carries  it  on  margin,  or  sells  it  in  large  or  small 
quantities,  for  domestic  or  foreign  use.  In  1891  the  company  opened  an  elevator  at  Rich- 
ford  (Vt),  from  which  to  supply  New  England  with  wheat,  corn  and  oats.  By  such 
scientific  system  the  golden  harvests  of  the  Northwest  are  concentrated  and  moved,  and 
finally  reach  the  hungry  consumers. 

In  the  long-ago  days  of  1858,  when  G.  W.  Van  Dusen  began  buying  wheat  in  Wiscon- 
sin, the  grain  was  handled  entirely  in  sacks,  and  shipped  upon  flat-cars.  Following  the 
Western  movement  of  the  trade,  Van  Dusen  located  in  1865  at  Rochester,  Minn.,  then  at 

the  end  of  the  Chicago  &  Northwestern  line  ;  and 
•  as  the  railway  was  extended  westward  he  built  at 
the  new  stations  elevators  for  handling  grain  in 
bulk.  G.  W.  Van  Dusen  &  Co.  now  operate  90 
country  elevators,  buying  grain  from  farmers,  and 
selling  it  to  millers  or  grain-dealers  for  future  deliv- 
ery. They  also  control  the  Star  Elevator  Com- 
pany, whose  elevator  at  Minneapolis  has  a  capacity 
of  1,800,000  bushels,  and  stores  the  grain  for  grain- 
MINNEAPCLIS  :  G,  w.  VAN  DUSEN  &  co.  dealers,  millers  and  others.  In  1888  the  stock  of 


MINNEAPOLIS  : 
INTERIOR  ELEVAT°R8-  F-  H-  PEAVEY  *  co- 


434 


KING'S  HANDBOOK   OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 


DULUTH    AND   ITS    HARBOR,  AND    LAKE    SUPERIOR. 


the  two  companies  was  sold  to  a  English  syndicate,  and  the  headquarters  are  now  in  Lon- 
don ;  Geo.  W.  Van  Dusen  serving  as  president  and  general  manager  of  the  two  companies. 
At  the  various  elevators  300  men  are  employed,  mainly  between  Winona  (Minn.)  and  Pierre 
(S.  D.);  and  G.  W.  Van  Dusen  &  Co.,  with  its  capital  of  $900,000,  ranks  as  one  of  the 
foremost  grain-dealing  firms  in  America. 

Duluth,  "the  Zenith  City  of  the  Unsalted  Seas,"  occupies  a  wonderful  strategic  posi- 
tion, where  the  Great  Lakes  reach  their  westernmost  point,  and  the  railways  from  the  richj 
prairie  States  converge,  bearing  enormous  freights  to  this  head  of  navigation.  It  has  an; 
extensive  system  of  deep-water  harbors,  reached  by  a  ship-canal  1,500  feet  long  and  300  feet 
wide,  with  a  depth  of  25  feet,  and  bordered  by  immense  elevators,  warehouses  and  coal-docks.] 

Its  receipts  rival  those  of  Chicago. ^^ ^^^^        .„• 

So    powerful    and  efficient   is  the 

machinery  in   use  on  these  piers, 

that   a   steamer   has   been  loaded 

with  15,000  bushels  of  wheat  in  2^ 

hours.     Wheat  began  to  come  to 

Duluth   in    1871,   and   more  than 

2,000  vessels  enter  and  leave  the 

port  yearly,  bringing  over  1, 500,000 

tons  of   coal,  and    carrying   away 

3,500,000  barrels  of   flour.      The 

elevator  capacity  is  21,000,000  bushels  of  wheat,  and  the  yearly  receipts  and  shipments  are 

about  30,000,000  bushels.     The  royal  water-route  eastward  from  Duluth  is  an  outlet  for 

enormous  quantities  of  merchandise  of  many  kinds.      Latterly  a    number  of  quaint    steel, 

"whale-back"  vessels  have  been  built  here,  for  the  navigation  of  the  lakes. 

Among  the  other  cities  is  New  Ulm,  settled  by  Germans,  and  hotly  besieged  by  the 
Sioux  in  1862;  St.  Peter,  on  its  picturesque  terraces  over  the  Minnesota  River  ;  Mankato, 
a  prosperous  manufacturing  town,  where  the  Blue-Earth  River  enters  the  Minnesota  ;  and 
Winona,   a  great  wheat-mart,   and  the    chief  city  of  southern  Minnesota,   in  a  beautiful 
situation  on  level  lowlands  under  the  Mississippi  bluffs,  with  wide  and  pleasant  streets,  busy 
factories,  and  excellent  schools  and  churches.      Faribault  is  famous  for  its  great  Episcopal  j 
schools ;  Fergus  Falls,  on  the  Red  River,  for  flouring-mills  and  other  manufactories  ;  Red  ; 
Wing,  for  its  wheat  trade  ;  Northfield,  for  farm-lands  and  colleges ;  St.  Cloud,  on  the  Miss- 
issippi, for  manufacturing  and  country-trade ;  and  Stillwater,  for  its  general  trade,  and  its 
pleasant  situation  on  Lake  St.  Croix. 

The  Finances  of  Minnesota  naturally  find  their  concentrating  points  at  Minneapolis 
and  St.  Paul.  The  former  has  recently  been  made  a  banking  reserve  point,  and  has  a  | 

banking  capital  of  $9,000,000,  and  deposits  of  $26,- 
000,000.      One  of  the  foremost  financial  institutions  of  if 
the  Northwest  is  the  First  National  Bank  of  Minneapo-  j 
lis,  which  was  organized  in  1863   by  the   Sidles,  then 
well-known  bankers  and  millers  of  Minnesota  ;  and  the  t 
Sidle  family  now  occupy  the  positions  of  president,  | 
cashier  and  assistant  cashier.     The  directorate  'includes 
a  number  of  the  strongest  men  in  the  State.    The  busi-  f 
ness  has  proved  to  be  large  and   successful,  and  the 
deposits  reach  nearly  $5,000,000.   The  paid-in  capital  is 
$1,000,000  ;  and  the  surplus  and  undivided  profits  are  ; 
over  $400,000.      This  is  the  oldest  bank  of  Minneapo- 

FIRST  NATIONAL  BANK.  HS)  and  in  several  particulars  is  the  largest  in  Minne- 

sota ;  and  its  operations  extend  over  a  great  area  of  the  northwestern  country,  where  it  has 
active  correspondents  in  many  cities. 


THE  STATE  OF  MINNESOTA, 


MINNEAPOLIS   I 
MINNESOTA  LOAN  &  TRUST  CO. 


The  Minnesota  Loan   &  Trust  Company,  the  foremost  trust 

company   of  the  Northwest,   organized  in   1883  by  Eugene  A. 

Merrill  and  Edmund  J.  Phelps,  occupies  its  own  imposing  fire- 
proof building,  erected  at  Minneapolis  in  1884-6,  and  has  a  capital 

of  $500,000,  with  a  surplus  and  undivided  profits  of  $175,000. 

It  transacts  the  same  lines  of  business  as  the  New  York   and 

Philadelphia  trust-companies,  having  the  care  of  estates,  and  acting 

as  guardian,  executor,  and  trustee  under  wills,  and  as  a  nego- 

ciator  of  mortgage-loans  for  Eastern  financial  institutions.     Such 

corporations  have  the  advantages  of  perpetuity,  and  comparative 

freedom  from  the  fluctuations  of  fortune,  and  insure  a  more  efficient 

and  economical  administration  of  trusts  than  individuals  can  attain 

to.     This  company  has  a  successful  deposit  department,  and  large 

safe-deposit  vaults ;  and  its  business  has  developed  on  all  sides 

rapidly  and  solidly.      It  is  required  bylaw  to  keep  on  deposit  with 

the  State  Auditor  $100,000,  in  approved  securities.      It  has  handled  loans  on  real  estate  to  a 

large  extent,  and  has  important  connections  with  the  leading  financial  institutions  of  the  East. 
Duluth  in  her  rapid  and  solid  growth  has  given  rise  to  a  number  of  financial  institutions  : 

including  three  National  banks,  three  State  banks,  a  savings-bank,  and  two  trust  companies, 
having  a  total  capital  of  $2,500,000.  One  of  these  banks  is  par- 
ticularly worthy  of  notice,  the  American  Exchange  Bank  of  Du- 
luth, with  a  capital  of  $325,000,  and  a  surplus  of  an  almost  equal 
amount ;  its  stock  selling  at  the  highest  figures  of  any  bank  in 
northern  Minnesota.  Its  deposits  exceed  $1,000,000  and  its 
gross  assets  approach  $2,000,000.  It  occupies  the  main  floor  in 
the  Exchange  Building,  a  handsome  structure  on  the  main  thor- 
oughfare. •  The  American  Exchange  Bank  was  established  in  1872 
as  a  savings-bank,  with  a  capital  of  $25,000,  and  reorganized  in 
1879  as  a  State  bank.  Its  capital  has  been  increased  several  times, 
and  now  reaches  $500,000.  It  is  the  oldest  bank  in  Duluth,  and 
moreover  is  the  oldest  incorporated  bank  at  the  head  of  the  chain 
of  great  lakes.  Its  officers  and  directors  are  among  the  best 
known  citizens,  its  president  being  H.  M.  Peyton,  and  its  cashier, 
James  C.  Hunter.  A.  R.  Macfarlane  who  was  instrumental  in 
its  original  organization  in  1872  has  ever  since  been  connected  with 

it,  and  is  now  manager.      It  does  a  large  general  banking  business  and  also  an  extensive 

amount  in  collections ;  banks  and  business  houses  throughout  the  country  making  use  of  the 

American  Exchange  Bank  for  collections  in  this  section.      It  has  been  uninterruptedly  suc- 
cessful from  the  start,  always  paying  yearly  dividends  of  ten  per  cent. 

The  Railway  system  of  Minnesota  began  its  operations  in  1857,  when  the  Minnesota 

&  Pacific  line  received  its  charter;  and  the  first  train  was  run  in  June,  1862,  over  the  ten 

miles  of  the  St.  -Paul  &  Pacific  route,  between  St. 

Paul  and  St.  Anthony.      By  1864  it  reached  Elk 

River;    by   1867,    Lake    Minnetonka ;    by    1870, 

Benson  ;  and  by  1871  it  entered  Breckenridge,  217 

miles    from  St.   Paul,  on  the  Red  River  of  the 

North.      The  Northern  Pacific  line  was  chartered 

in  1864,  and  reached  Moorhead  on  the  Red  River 

in  1871.       In  1872  trains  began  to  run  on  the  St. 

Paul  &  Chicago  line,  to  \Vinona  and  La  Crosse. 

The  Minnesota  Valley  line  incorporated  in  1864, 

leached  Shakopee  in  1865  and  Le  Sueur  in  1867.  GREAT  NORTHERN  RAILWAY  GENERAL  OFFICES. 


DULUTH   : 
1ERICAN   EXCHANGE  BANK. 


436 


A'MG'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


together  with 


from  80 


The  principal  thoroughfare 
of    Minnesota    is    the    Great 
Northern  Railway  Line,  part 
of  which  is  the  former  St.  -Paul, 
Minneapolis  &  Manitoba.   The 
railway  history  of  this  State, 
particularly  that   of   St.  Paul 
and  Minneapolis,  begins  with 
this  road,  it  being  the  first  to 
E-  enter  the  Twin  Cities.     It  now 
four  tracks,  over  which   it  runs 
day  from  magnificent  Union  Depots. 
Minnesota  are  to  be  found  some  of 


o  trains  i 

On  its  various  lines  in 

the  most  delightful  pleasure  and  fishing  resorts  in  America,  including  Lake  Minnetonka, 
with  Hotel  Lafayette,  the  largest  summer  house  in  the  West.  Indeed,  every  station  in  the 
Park  Region  is  the  centre  for  countless  lakes.  Its  real  growth  began  a  little  over  ten  years 
ago,  when  President  James  J.  Hill  assumed  active  management.  Its  lines  now  radiate  in 
all  directions  westward  of  St.  Paul,  Minneapolis,  Duluth  and  West  Superior ;  and  at  Puget 
Sound  will  touch  the  tides  of  the  Pacific  and  connect  its  waters  with  the  Atlantic  by  a  route 
via  Lake  Superior  (and  also  via  St.  Paul),  the  shortest  by  250  miles  of  any  trans-continental 
line.  The  Great  Northern  is  not  only  the  shortest  line,  but  its  average  grade  is  the  easiest  of 
any  in  the  West.  It  is  built  along  the  only  parallel  across  the  Continent  possible  of  continu- 
ous settlement,  through  a  veritable  empire  of  agricultural,  grazing,  mineral  and  timber  lands. 
This  proud  achievement  was  consummated  without  Government  subsidy  or  local  aid.  The 
Great  Northern  is  the  principal  carrier  of  original  wheat  in  the  world,  delivering  every  year 
tens  of  thousands  of  cars  to  Lake- Superior  ports  for  shipment  abroad,  and  to  the  flour-mills 
of  Minneapolis,  St.  Paul  and  Duluth.  It  not  only  hauls  out  the  wheat  of  the  Red-River  Valley 
and  the  Dakotas,  to  the  mills,  and  the  corn  of  Iowa  and  Nebraska  to  the  vessels  of  Lake 
Superior,  but  it  is  the  artery  through  which  flow  the  products  of  the  ranges,  mines  and 
forests  of  Montana,  Idaho,  Washington  and  Oregon,  its  direct  traffic  covering  a  region 
larger  than  the  original  area  of  the  United  States. 

The  dairy  business  in  the  grass  counties  of  southern  Minnesota  has  largely  supplanted 

wheat-culture,  bringing  to  thousands  of  farmers  a     / — T~T \     high  prosperity.  This 

is  largely  due  to  Charles  E.  Marvin  and  E.  A.  Cam-  /^dfi" it  g"l  \  ma-ck,  who  in  1 88 1 
founded  the  creamery  business,  in  Rochester,  Minn.  (  BliBH»»L-  i  The  outgrowth  of  this 
enterprise  (still  under  the  same  management)  is  the 
Crescent  Creamery  Company,  with  a  capital  of 
$300,000,  and  probably  the  largest  concern  of  the 
kind  in  America,  conducting  30  establishments, 
with  large  plants  in  Minnesota  at  St.  Paul  and 
Rochester,  and  in  Washington  and  Tacoma  on  the 
Pacific  Coast.  The  company  buys  the  milk  from 
150,000  cows,  and  its  yearly  sales  reach  $2,000,000, 
including  much  of  the  milk  used  in  St.  Paul  and 
Minneapolis,  millions  of  eggs,  and  enormous  quan- 
tities of  butter  and  cheese.  Butter  is  made  from  ST-  P"UL  :  CRES-ENT  CKEAMERY 
cream  extracted  at  the  shipping  stations  by  the  centrifugal  process;  churned  by  the  dry 
granular  process,  in  numerous  revolving  churns,  each  yielding  about  400  pounds;  worked 
into  individual  squares,  cloth-bound  two-pound  blocks,  rolls,  firkins  and  in  boxes  ;  and 
then  stored  in  a  temperature  of  33°,  and  shipped  in  refrigerator  cars  all  over  the  Union, 
and  to  the  Pacific  Coast  and  Europe.  The  high  quality  of  the  goods  bearing  the  Crescent 
Company's  brand  has  been  the  main  cause  of  the  remarkable  success. 


i8i7 
791,305 
827,922 

I,I22,3« 

9,209 

567,177 


According  to  tradition, 
the  ancient  inhabitants  of 
Mississippi  were  the  Ala- 
bama and  Muscogee  In- 
dians, fleeing  from  Cortez 
in  Mexico.  They  had  hardly 
become  accustomed  to  the 
land  of  their  exile  when  De 
Soto's  army  of  hidalgoes, 

men-at-arms  and  monks  entered  their  territory,  and  win- 
tered in  Pontotoc  County.  After  suffering  the  loss  of  50 
soldiers  in  a  night  attack  by  the  Chickasaws,  De  Soto 
stormed  the  Indian  town  of  Alibamo,  on  the  Tallahatchie 
River,  at  the  close  of  a  hot  and  murderous  battle.  Even 
after  the  Spanish  army  had  turned  southward  from  Arkan- 
sas, to  retreat  by  boats  to  the  Gulf,  the  gallant  Mississip- 
pians  attacked  their  flotilla  all  along  the  river,  in  fleets  of 
canoes,  and  inflicted  serious  losses  upon  them. 

More  than  a  century  passed  before  Marquette  and  Joliet 
(in  1673)  visited  these  shores,  passing  from  Quebec  up  to 
the  Great  Lakes,  and  descending  the  Wisconsin  and  Miss- 
issippi. They  were  kindly  received  by  the  Chickasaws, 
and  abode  with  them  many  days.  Nine  years  later  La 
Salle  followed  the  same  route,  and  visited  the  Natchez  In- 
dians, taking  possession  of  the  country  in  the  name  of 
France  ;  and  not  long  afterward  a  brave  priest  established 
a  Catholic  mission  among  the  Tunicas.  In  1699,  an  expe- 
dition sent  out  by  Louis  XIV.,  composed  of  200  French- 
Canadians,  and  headed  by  Iberville  and  Bienville,  occupied 
Ship  and  Cat  Islands,  and  erected  a  fort  at  Biloxi.  Later, 
they  laid  out  the  town  of  Rosalie,  on  the  site  of  Natchez. 
A  settlement  arose  here  in  1716;  and  13  years  afterward 
the  Indians  massacred  200  of  its  citizens,  and  carried  500 
into  captivity.  French  and  Choctaw  armies  marched 
against  the  Natchez  tribe,  and  in  a  series  of  arduous  campaigns  entirely  destroyed  it,  killing 
the  bravest  warriors,  and  sending  hundreds  of  others  to  San  Domingo,  as  slaves.  The 
Chickasaws  dwelt  in  northern  Mississippi,  and  repulsed  two  campaigns  of  Bienville.  In 


Settled  at Fort  Rosalie. 

Settled  in 1716 

Founded  by    ...          Frenchmen. 
Admitted  as  a  State, 
Population  in  1860, 
In  1870,    .... 
In  1880,    .... 
American-born, 
Foreign-born,  . 
Males..    .    .     . 
Females,  .    .     . 
In  1890  (U.  S.  Census), 


wh'te, 539,703 

Colored, 747, 720 

Population  to  the  square  mile,     24.4 
Voting  Population  (1880),    .     238,532 
Vote  for  Harrison  (1888),        30,096 
Vote  for  Cleveland  (1888),      85,471 
Net  State  Debt,      .     .    $3,246,183.57 
Assessed  Valuation  of 

Property  (1890),    .     .      $158,000,000 
46,810 
7 

1,525 
75 

1,357 
2,332 
191 

11,074 
$7,495,802 
•  5,827 
$1,192,645 
15,883,251 
$92,844,915 


Area  (square  miles),   . 

U.  S.  Representatives  (1893), 

Militia  (Disciplined),  .     . 

Counties, 

Post-offices, 

Railroads  (miles),    .     .     . 
Vessels, 

Tonnage, 

Manufactures  (yearly), 

Operatives,      .    .    . 

Yearly  Wages,    .     . 
Farm  Land  (in  acres), 

Farm- Land  Values, 

Farm  Products  (yearly)  $63,701,844 
Public  Schools,  Average 

Daily  Attendance,  .    .    .     193,119 

Newspapers, 163 

Latitude,  ....  3o°i3'  to  35°  N. 
Longitude,  .  .  88V  to  91041'  W. 
Temperature,  ....  3°  to  xoio 
Mean  Temperature  (Jackson),  64° 


TEN  CHIEF  CITIES  AND  THEIR  POPU- 
LATIONS.    (Census  of  1890.) 


Vicksburg, 
Meridian, 
Natchez, 
Greenville, 

iackson,  . 
olumbus, 
Aberdeen, 
Yazoo  City, 
Uiloxi,  .  . 
Wesson,  . 


13,373 
10,624 
10, 101 
6,658 
5,920 
4,559 
3,'449 
3.286 
3,234 
3.168 


43g  KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

1736  he  led  550  French  and  Swiss  soldiers  and  600  Choctaws  in  boats  up  the  Tombigbee 
River,  to  Cotton-Gin  Port,  and  marched  against  Ackia,  where  the  Chickasaws  defeated  the 
allies  with  terrible  loss.  At  the  same  time  D'Artaguette  and  130  French  soldiers,  and  many 
Miami  and  Iroquois  Indians,  advanced  from  Illinois  to  Chickasaw  Bluffs  and  Pontotoc,  and 
there  suffered  defeat  at  the  hands  of  the  Chickasaws,  the  commander,  with  his  priest  and 
16  other  officers  and  soldiers,  being  burned  at  the  stake.  In  1752  the  Marquis  de  Vaudreuil 
was  beaten  by  the  same  indomitable  tribe,  and  threw  his  artillery  into  the  river  at  Cotton- 
Gin  Port,  where  cannon  have  since  been  found. 

Most  of  Mississippi  was  included  in  the  vast  cession  of  territory  made  by  France  to  Eng- 
land by  the  Treaty  of  Paris,  in  1 763,  and  belonged  to  the  Province  of  Illinois.  The  British 
province  of  West  Florida  at  first  included  the  region  south  of  31°  ;  and  afterwards  the  region 
south  of  the  latitude  of  the  mouth  of  the  Yazoo.  Willing's  American  detachment  suffered 
a  repulse  at  Natchez  in  1778,  and  the  Tory  inhabitants  rebuilt  old  Fort  Panmure,  and  held 
it  for  England.  In  1779  Don  Bernardo  de  Galvez  captured  Natchez,  at  the  head  of  a  force 
of  Spanish  infantry  and  American  volunteers.  After  the  Spaniards  had  held  Mississippi  for 
three  years,  Alston,  Lyman,  Phelps  and  other  New-England  and  Carolinian  immigrants  and 
royalists  bombarded  and  captured  Natchez  ;  and  then,  assailed  by  the  Spaniards,  retreated 
to  Savannah  in  a  five-months'  march  across  the  country,  suffering  terrible  losses  and  hard- 
ships. When  West  Florida  was  confirmed  to  Spain 
by  treaty,  and  the  United  States  occupied  the  eastern 
side  of  the  Mississippi  Valley  down  thus  far,  the  two 
powers  debated  for  years  as  to  whether  their  fron- 
tier slay  at  31°,  or  the  Yazoo.  Spain  yielded,  in  1798, 
and  Congress  formed  the  disputed  territory,  extend- 
ing from  the  Mississippi  to  the  Chattahoochee,  into 
the  Mississippi  Territory.  In  1800  the  present  State 
lay  in  several  jurisdictions  ;  from  the  Gulf  to  31°,  in 
Spanish  Louisiana;  from  31°  to  the  parallel  of  the 
Yazoo,  in  Mississippi  Territory  ;  and  from  the  Yazoo 
northward  nearly  to  Tennessee,  in  Georgia.  Con- 
gress bought  out  the  claims  of  Georgia  in  the  West 
in  1802,  and  added  the  domain  to  the  South-Carolina 

cession,  naming  the  whole  the  Territory  South  of  the  River  Ohio,  and  in  1804  adding  it  to 
Mississippi  Territory.  The  region  south  of  31°  was  annexed  to  the  United  States  by  the 
Louisiana  Purchase.  In  1812  this  coast-strip  became  a  part  of  Mississippi  Territory,  which 
included  also  Alabama.  The  latter  was  set  apart  five  years  later,  leaving  Mississippi  with- 
her  present  boundaries. 

The  Choctaws  of  the  south  and  the  Chickasaws  of  the  north  were  deported  across  the] 
Mississippi  River  in  1832-4,  and  then  a  great  influx  of  immigration  occupied  their  deserted 
fields. 

Mississippi  was  one  of  the  first  States  to  attempt  secession,  and  as  early  as  January,  1861,  jj 
planted  artillery  at  Vicksburg  to  command  the  river.      Late  in  1861  United-States  naval 
expeditions  captured  Biloxi  and  Ship  Island.      In   1862  Beauregard's  Confederates  yielded 
Corinth  to  Halleck's  National  troops,  after  a  long  siege ;  and  in  October  Gens.  Price  andj 
Van  Dorn  assailed  the  town  with  35,000  Confederates,  and  were  terribly  defeated  by  Rose-| 
crans,  sacrificing  9,000  men.      At  luka  the  two  armies  lost  1,000  men  each.      Vicksburg,  onfj 
its  high  bluffs,  was  the  key  of  the  Mississippi,  and  bristled  with  fortifications  and  cannon,J 
which  foiled  Farragut,  in  June,  and  Sherman  in  December,  1862.      In  April,  1863,  Grant 
crossed  the  river  at  Bruinsburg  ;  captured  Grand  Gulf  and  Jackson  ;  defeated  Pemberton' 
25,000  troops  at  Champion  Hills  ;  and  on  July  4th  received  the  surrender  of  Vicksburg,  witl 
27,000  soldiers.      In  this  campaign,  which  practically  ended  the  war  in  Mississippi,  Gi 
lost  8,000  men,  and  the  Confederates  lost  9,000.      In  1865  Mississippi  repealed  the  ordinam 


THE   STATE   OF  MISSISSIPPI. 


439 


A    COTTON    FIELD. 


of  secession,  and  abolished  slavery.  It  adopted  a  new  con- 
stitution in  1869;  and  in  1870,  having  ratified  the  I4th 
and  1 5th  Amendments,  its  representatives  were  admitted 
to  Congress.  The  property  valuation  was  lowered  between 
1860  and  1870,  by  the  war  and  the  liberation  of  the  slaves, 
from  $607,324,911  to  $209,197,345.  The  State  adopted 
a  new  constitution  on  November  i,  1890. 

The  Name  of  the  State  signifies  "Great  River."  It 
is  an  Algonquin  compound  word,  originally  spelled  Mechi/  Sel>e,  changed  by  the  Chevalier 
Tonty  to  Miche  Sepe,  by  Pere  Laval  to  Michisepe,  by  Pere  Labatt  to  Misisipi,  and  by  Mar- 
quette  to  Mississipi.  The  popular  names  of  Mississippi  are  THE  BAYOU  STATE,  and  The 
Border-Eagle  State. 

The  Arms  of  Mississippi  bear  an  American  eagle,  with  outspread  wings,  holding 
arrows  in  one  talon  and  an  olive  branch  in  the  other,  on  a  round  silver  field. 

The  Governors  of  Mississippi  have  been  :  Territorial:  Winthrop  Sargent,  1798-1801  ; 
Wm.  C.  C.  Claiborne,  1801-5;  Robert  Williams,  1805-9;  David  Holmes,  1809-17.  State : 
David  Holmes,  1817-19,  and  1825-7;  Geo.  Poindexter,  1819-21;  Walter  Leake,  1822-5; 
Gerard  C.  Brandon,  1827-31  ;  Abram  M.  Scott,  1832-3  ;  Hiram  G.  Runnels,  1834-5  ;  Chas. 
Lynch,  1835-7;  Alex.  G.  McNutt,  1838-41;  Tilghman  M.  Tucker,  1842-3;  Albert  G. 
Brown,  1844-8;  Jos.  W.  Matthews,  1848-49;  John  A.  Quitman,  1850-1;  John  I.  Guion 
(acting),  1851  ;  Jas.  Whitefield  (acting),  1851-2;  Henry  S.  Foote,  1852-4;  John  J.  McRae, 
1854-7  ;  Wm.  McWillie,  1858-9 ;  John  J.  Pettus,  1860-3  5  Chas.  Clarke,  1864-5  >  Wm-  L- 
Sharkey  (appointed),  1865-6;  Benj.  G.  Humphreys,  1866-70;  Adelbert  Ames  (appointed), 
1868-70;  Jas.  I.  Alcorn,  1870;  R.  C.  Powers  (acting),  1870-4;  Adelbert  Ames,  1874-6; 
John  Marshall  Stone  (acting),  1876-7  ;  John  M.  Stone,  1878-81  ;  Robert  Lowry,  1882-9  ; 
and  John  M.  Stone,  1890-6. 

Descriptive. — The  Mississippi  lowlands  cover  7,460  square  miles,  and  the  remaining 
five  sixths  of  the  State  are  divided  between  rolling  and  level  uplands,  with  smooth  prairies 
in  the  northeast.  The  streams  descend  gradually,  and  their  valleys  are  bordered  by  hum- 
mocks or  second  bottoms,  while  in  their  lower  reaches  they  often  flood  the  country  for  miles. 
The  elevation  of  the  uplands  varies  from  1 50  to  800  feet,  and  they  fall  away  very  gradually 
to  the  south  and  southwest.  The  extreme  south  contains  extensive 
marshes  and  immeasurable  pineries.  The  Yazoo  Delta,  a  great 
ellipsoid,  160  miles  long,  is  one  of  the  most  fertile  districts  in  the 
vast  valley  of  the  Mississippi.  It  lies  between  Vicksburg  and 
Tennessee,  covering  6, 250  square  miles,  with  swamps  and  lakes, 
bayous  and  prairies  and  great  woods.  The  cultivated 
lands  lie  on  the  low  ridges  and  along  the  lakes  and 
rivers,  the  rest  being  cane-brakes  and  cypress-swamps. 
The  Delta  would  lie  deep  under  water  every  spring  but 
for  the  levees,  protecting  part  of  these  wonderfully 
fertile  lands.  The  two  levee  districts  have  efficient 
boards  of  commissioners  to  build  and  guard  the  levees, 
raising  the  funds  by  a  tax  on  each  bale  of  cotton. 

|  The  gray  and  white  clays  of  the  northeast  and  the  region  of  long-leaf  pine  are  unproductive  ; 
|but  the  rest  of  Mississippi  is  of  remarkable  fertility,  and  half  of  it  remains  unused. 

No  part  of  the  90  miles  of  Mississippi  coast  lies  on  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  whose  waves 
beat  along  a  range  of  low  islands  from  ten  to  30  miles  off-shore.  Five  light-houses  rise  from 
.these  lonely  sand-bars.  Ship  Island  is  a  low  bank  of  white  sand,  seven  miles  long,  with 
'groves  at  its  eastern  end,  and  on  the  west  the  best  harbor  of  the  Mississippi  coast.  This 
iwas  the  headquarters  of  the  West-Gulf  Blockading  Squadron  and  of  Gen.  Butler's  army, 
•before  the  capture  of  Pensacola  and  New  Orleans.  Inside  the  islands  lies  the  placid 


CLINTON  :     MISSISSIPPI    COLLEGE. 


440 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE   UNITED   STATES. 


Mississippi  Sound,  in  places  deep  enough  for  large  ships,  and  bordered  by  low  bluffs  of 
shining  white  sand.  The  shallow  harbors  of  Mississippi  City,  Biloxi  and  Bay  St.  Louis  are 
mainly  occupied  by  summer-resorts,  among  the  water-oaks  and  live-oaks,  magnolias  and 
cedars,  with  the  solemn  pines  on  one  side  and  the  opalescent  waters  of  the  Sound  on  the 
other.  Pass  Christian  is  a  favorite  pleasure-resort,  with  a  fine  hotel,  two  hours  from  New 
Orleans  and  three  hours  from  Mobile.  Ancient  Biloxi  rambles  over  a  sea-fronting  line  of 
sand-hills,  with  shell-roads  leading  inland  ;  and  is  a  happy  haven  for  sufferers  from  consump- 
tion and  asthma.  In  the  summer  great  excursion-parties  from  New  Orleans  crowd  its  hotels 

and  restaurants,  and  go  fishing  among  the  shadowy 
islands  off-shore.  The  oysters  and  oranges  of  Biloxi 
are  equally  celebrated  for  their  flavors,  and  the  place 
has  canneries  for  oysters  and  shrimp.  The  waters  out- 
side abound  in  red-fish,  black-fish,  red  snappers,  pom- 
pano,  Spanish  mackerel,  sheepshead,  trout,  and  other 
food-fish.  Ocean  Springs,  half  a  mile  from  the  sea- 
beach,  is  a  resort  much  visited  by  the  people  of  New 
Orleans  and  Mobile,  who  can  enjoy  in  the  same  hour 

PASS    CHRISTIAN  :     A   STREET   SCENE.  ^     ^.^^     bathmg     and     the     medicinal      virtues     Of 

saline-chalybeate  waters.  Mississippi  also  has  several  popular  inland  pleasure-resorts. 
Cooper's  Well  is  one  of  the  30  chief  American  springs  described  in  the  Encyclopedia  Bri- 
tannica,  where  it  ranks  as  an  iron  water,  beneficial  for  dyspepsia,  dropsy,  anaemia  and  other 
diseases.  Castalian  Springs  pours  out  red  sulphur  waters,  strongly  charged  with  carbonic-  , 
acid  gas  and  sulphuretted  hydrogen.  Brown's  Wells,  in  Copiah  County,  are  noted  for  their 
curative  properties. 

The  Mississippi  River  flows  along  the  western  frontier,  held  in  its  channel  by  immense] 
and  costly  levees.      The  Tennessee  River  forms  the  northwestern  frontier  for  ten  miles. 
The  chief  affluent  of  the  Mississippi  from  this  State  is  the  Yazoo  River,  formed  by  the  con-1 
fluence  of  the  Yalobusha  and  Tallahatchie,  and  flowing  264  miles  southwest  to  the  great 
river,  seven  miles  above  Vicksburg.     It  is  navigable  throughout,  and  has  a  fleet  of  tenl 
steamboats,  with  a  yearly  commerce  of  $3,500,000,  including  over  50,000  bales  of  cotton.- 
The  Tallahatchie  has  a  yearly  commerce  of  $1,500,000  in  cotton,  supporting  nine  steam-f 
boats,  running  up  100  miles  to  Sharkey's  Landing,  and  sometimes  to  Coldwater,  165  miles. 
The  Yalobusha  has  been  ascended  by  steamboats  to  Grenada.     Tchula  Lake  is  a  bayou  of 
the  Yazoo,  67  miles  long,  and  sending  out  yearly  14,000  bales  of  cotton  on  its  four  steanw- 
boats.     The  Big  Black  River,  400  miles  long,  enters  the  Mississippi  at  Grand  Gulf.     Thai 
Pearl  River  has  had  several  Government  parties  at  work  for  many  years,  from  its  mouth  t(M 
Jackson  (310  miles)  and  Edinburgh  (440  miles),  and  the  yearly  commerce  now  amounts  to| 
$1,600,000,  employing  eleven  steamboats.     The  Tombigbee  River  flows  off  into  Alabama, 
the  head  of  winter-navigation  being  at  Aberdeen,  and  at  favorable  seasons  steamboats  may 
reach  Fulton.      Steamers  ascend  the  Noxubee  to  Macon,  91^  miles.     The  Pascagoula  River 
is  navigable  85  miles  to  the  confluence  of  the  Leaf  and  the  Chicasaha,  for  light  vessels. 

The  Geology  of  Mississippi  shows  a  small  sub-carboniferous  district -in  the  northeast, 
succeeded  by  Cretaceous  formations.  Half  of  the  State  is  Tertiary,  lying  between  the  Cre« 
taceous  and  the  Mississippi  bottoms,  and  to  within  20  miles  of  the  Gulf.  Although  con<| 
tiguous  to  the  rich  metalliferous  States  of  Alabama 
and  Tennessee,  Mississippi  has  no  mines,  and  her 
limestones  and  sandstones,  marls  and  fire-clays, 
have  but  little  economic  value. 

The  Climate  is  almost  sub-tropical,  especially 
along  the  Gulf,  where  the  freezing-point  is  rarely 
reached.  The  summer  season  extends  from  May 
1st  to  October  1st,  with  the  thermometer  from  61°  WHITWORTH 


THE  STATE   OF  MISSISSIPPI. 


441 


to  95°  (with  a  mean  of  8l°);  but  the  heat  is  tem- 
pered by  variable  winds,  especially  those  from  the 
Gulf.     The  mean  annual  temperature  of  the  Gulf 
towns  is  68° ;  of  Vicksburg,  65° ;  of  the  north,  61°. 
The  rainfall  varies  from  65  inches  on  the  seaboard 
to  60  inches  in  the  north,  and  mostly  occurs  in  win- 
ter and  spring.     The  death-rate,  13  yearly  in  1,000, 
is  less  than  those  of  New  York,  Massachusetts,  Vir-     COLUMBUS  :  GIRLS'  INDUSTRIAL  INS.  AND  COLLEGE. 
ginia,  and  Pennsylvania.     The  mortality  of  the  whites  is  only  10  in  1,000.     Lung  and  throat 
diseases  and  catarrh  never  originate  here,  and  are  relieved  when  brought  hither.     Diphtheria 
is  almost  unknown ;  and  the  yellow  fever  has  not  entered  the  State  since  1878. 

Agriculture  is  pre-eminently  the  industry  of  Mississippi,  whose  responsive  soil  and  stim- 
ulating climate  yield  a  great  profusion  and  variety  of  the  fruits  of  the  earth.  More  than 
four  fifths  of  the  working  population  are  in  farming  pursuits.  The  great  plantations  have 
given  way  to  small  farms,  the  43,000  estates  enumerated  in  1860  having  become  125,000  in 
1890.  There  are  1,000,000  acres  of  Government  land,  mostly  in  the  long-leaf-pine  region 
towards  the  Gulf;  and  the  railways  also  have  large  tracts  for  sale,  at  low  prices. 

The  cotton  crop  of  1860  reached  1,200,000  bales,  but  the  next  five  battle-years  caused 
the  product  to  fall  off  greatly.  By  1880  it  had  reached  960,000  bales,  worth  $43,000,000, 
and  the  State  stood  foremost  of  all  in  this  product.  It  is  now  second  to  Texas.  One  third 
of  this  great  wealth-making  crop  is  produced  by  white  men's  labor,  mainly  in  the  upland 
counties,  where  the  climate  is  salubrious ;  and  the  rest  by  negroes,  mainly  in  the  Delta. 
28,000,000  bushels  of  cotton-seed  are  harvested  each  year.  The  corn-crop  is  about 
25,000,000  bushels.  Mississippi  also  yields  yearly  3,500,000  bushels  of  oats,  2,000,060  of 
rice,  700,000  of  potatoes,  and  500,000  of  wheat.  Figs,  oranges,  and  Scuppernong  grapes 
grow  along  the  Gulf  Coast  ;  blackberries  overrun  the  wild  lands  everywhere ;  and  straw- 
berries and  melons  and  other  fruits  and  vegetables  are  sent  to 
the  cities.  Over  1,200  car-loads  have  been  shipped  North  on 
one  railway,  in  a  single  season. 

The  planters  long  waged  war  on  "  General 
Green,"  as  they  called  the  grasses;  but  the  un- 
profitableness ,of  exclusive  cotton-culture  has 
turned  their  attention  to  pasturage.  The  valuable 
Bermuda  grass  yields  five  tons  of  hay  to  the  acre ; 
Japan  clover  has  spread  over  the  State  with  mar- 
vellous rapidity  ;  and  crab-grass  and  broom-sedge 
also  afford  very  good  forage.  The  yearly  hay-crop 
is  60,000  tons.  The  live-stock  includes  104,000  mules,  99,000  horses,  1,636,000  hogs, 
440,000  cattle,  and  200,000  sheep.  Here  are  the  largest  dairying  interests  in  the  Gulf  States ; 
and  many  herds  of  valuable  Jersey,  Short-Horn  and  Holstein  cattle. 

Forests  cover  three  fifths  of  Mississippi,  and  include  oak,  red  cedar,  black  walnut,  poplar, 
cottonwood,  tupelo  and  other  trees.  The  long-leafed  yellow-pine  fills  most  of  the  country 
south  of  the  Meridian-Vicksburg  line.  The  pine-woods  alone  are  valued  at  $250,000,000. 
The  cypress  and  cane  of  the  swamps  ;  the  chestnut  and  walnut,  beech  and  hickory  of  the 
bluffs ;  the  red  gum  of  the  Yazoo ;  all  have  an  economic  value. 

Government.— The  governor  and  six  executive  officers  are  elected  for  four  years.  The 
legislature  of  45  four-years'  senators  and  133  four-years'  representatives,  includes  a  number 
of  colored  members.  The  three  Supreme-Court  justices,  nine  circuit  judges  and  twelve 
chancellors  are  appointed  by  the  governor.  No  atheist  may  hold  office.  The  State  House 
is  a  dignified  old  classic  building,  with  a  fine  portico.  The  militia,  or  National  Guard,  includes 
three  regiments  and  two  battalions  of  infantry  and  several  light  batteries,  armed  by  the 
National  Government.  The  valuation  of  the  State  increased  50  per  cent,  between  1 880  and 


LYCEUM 
UNIVERSITY  OF  MISSISSIPPI. 


442 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


1890.  The  State  Lunatic  Asylum,  the  Institute 
for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb,  the  Institute  for  the  Blind, 
and  the  Penitentiary  are  all  at  Jackson.  The  East- 
Mississippi  Insane  Asylum  is  at  Meridian.  The 
hospitals  at  Vicksburg  and  Natchez  receive  sub- 
sidies from  the  State.  The  Penitentiary  is  kept 
only  for  sick  or  aged  or  life-time  convicts,  the 
others  being  leased  to  outside  contractors.  A 
Board  of  Control,  consisting  of  the  three  railroad 

.  i  f-^.  1       A 

commissioners,  the  Governor  and  Attorney-Gen- 
eral, manage  the  Penitentiary,  and  lessees  are  held  to  strict  account  for  the  humane  treat- 
ment of  the  convicts.  After  1894,  the  leasing  system  will  be  abolished. 

Education  is  free  to  all  children  between  five  and  21,  and  is  supervised  by  a  State  Board 
and  appointed  county  superintendents  and  elected  boards  of  trustees.  The  State  normal 
schools  are  at  Holly  Springs,  and  Tougaloo  for  colored  students;  and  there  are  private 
normal  schools.  The  University  of  Mississippi,  chartered  in  1844,  has  250  students,  a  library 
of  12,000  volumes  (in  a  handsome  new  Elizabethan  building),  and  an  endowment  exceeding 
$500,000,  on  which  the  State  pays  interest.  There  are  undergraduate  courses  in  art,  science 
and  philosophy  ;  post-graduate  courses ;  and  a  law  school.  The  University  is  near  Oxford, 
and  has  three  dormitories,  an  observatory,  gymnasium,  and  other  buildings,  with  a  domain 
of  640  acres.  Students  (even  of  other  States)  receive  tuition  free,  the  expenses  of  the  Uni- 
versity being  met  by  the  State.  The  Agricultural  and  Mechanical  College,  for  white  boys, 
supported  also  by  the  State,  and  on  the  military  system,  is  at  Starkville  ;  and  with  it  is  con- 
nected the  United  States  Experimental  Station  ;  about  350  students.  The  Alcorn  Agricultural 
and  Mechanical  College,  in  the  southwest,  has  240  colored  students.  The  Industrial  Insti- 
tute and  College  for  the  Education  of  White  Girls  of 
Mississippi  was  opened  at  Columbus,  in  1885,  and  has 
upwards  of  300  students  in  the  usual  branches,  besides 
drawing  and  wood-carving,  stenography  and  type- 
writing, book-keeping  and  telegraphy,  printing  and 
dress-making.  The  State  supports  the  college  and 
gives  free  tuition  to  300  students.  All  the  girls  are 
uniformed  in  navy-blue  dresses,  sailor-hats  and  tan 
gloves.  Mississippi  College,  founded  in  1830,  at 
Clinton,  is  a  Baptist  institution.  The  colored  people 
send  their  young  men  and  women  to  Alcorn  College, 
to  Rust  University  at  Holly  Springs,  and  to  the  nor- 
mal schools  at  Holly  Springs,  Tougaloo  and  Jackson,  and  the  Meridian  Academy. 

The  National  cemeteries  in  Mississippi  are  sacred  to  the  Union  soldiers  who  died  on  her 
soil,  while  reclaiming  her  for  the  great  Republic.  That  at  Vicksburg  contains  16,618  graves ; 
and  the  Corinth  National  Cemetery  has  5,719. 

Chief  Cities. — Vicksburg  has  enjoyed  a  large  growth  since  her  mournful  siege  left  her 
in  ruins,  and  possesses  excellent  foundries  and  machine-shops,  and  receives  60,000  bales  of 
cotton  yearly.  Except  at  high  water,  steamboats  are  obliged  to  land  two  miles  below  ;  and 
a  railroad  runs  thence  to  the  city.  Here  the  Walnut  Hills  extend  along  the  river  for  miles, 
with  a  height  of  500  feet,  affording  the  most  picturesque  scenery  on  the  lower  Mississippi. 
Jackson,  the  capital,  is  on  the  Pearl  River,  in  an  undulating  region  of  rich  yellow  loam, 
prolific  in  corn  and  cotton,  vegetables  and  fruits.  Natchez  is  a  pleasant  city,  with  its  public 
buildings  and  homes  in  Natchez-on-the-Hill,  stretching  along  a  bluff  200  feet  high,  with  a 
park  looking  down  upon  the  Mississippi,  and  its  wharves  below,  in  Natchez-under-the-IIill. 

The  railroads  of  Mississippi  cost  $60,000,000,  and  include  several  great  lines.      Manu 
factures  employ  6,000  persons,  with  a  yearly  product  of  $7,500,000. 


-  ftJ 


HOLLY    SPRINGS  :    RAILWAY    STATION. 


St.  Genevieve. 


Population  in  1860, 

In  1870,    .     . 

In  1880,  .... 
American-born, 
Foreign-born,  . 


Settled  at  ... 
Settled  in  .... 
Founded  by    ... 
Admitted  as  a  State, 

1,182,012 
1,721,29"; 
2,168,380 
1,956,802 
211,578 

V 1,127,187 

Females, 1,041,193 

In  1890  (U.  S.  Census),     .  2,679,184 

White, 2,524,468 

Colored, 154,131 

Population  to  the  square  mile,     31.5 
Voting  Population,      .     .     .     541,207 
Vote  for  Harrison  (1888),       236,257 
Vote  for  Cleveland  (1888),     261,974 
Net  Stat^eJDebt,  .    .    .f   $8,439,749-20 


Assessed  Valuation  of 
Property  (1890),    .    . 
Area  (square  miles), 


r.S 


U.  S.  Representatives  (1893), 
Militia  (Disciplined),  . 

Counties, 

Post-offices,  .  .  . 
Railroads  (miles),  .  . 
Vessels, 

Tonnage,     .... 
Manufactures  (yearly), 

Operatives,      .    .     . 

Yearly  Wages,     .     . 
Farm  Land  (in  acres), 


$786,000,000 
69,415 


HISTOR  Y. 

Missouri  fell  to  the  share  of 

Itf*      ^W^'flF          I     France,  by  virtue  of  the  dis- 
coveries   of    Marquette  and 

Joliet,  in  1673,  and  La  Salic 

and  Hennepin,  in  1682.     The 

vast    empire  thus  discovered 

and  claimed  for  France  was 

colonized  from  Canada,  whose 

daring  explorers  in  1705  as- 
cended the  Missouri  River  to  the  Kansas.  A  settlement 
arose  at  St.  Genevieve  about  the  year  1750;  and  in  1720 
the  French  founded  Fort  Orleans,  not  far  below  the  site  of 
Lexington,  for  the  Indian  fur-trade,  and  to  hold  in  check 
the  Spaniards,  advancing  from  Mexico.  Within  a  few  years 
the  Missouri  Indians  destroyed  this  establishment. 

The  site  of  St.  Louis  was  selected  by  Pierre  Laclede 
Ligueste,  who  sent  Auguste  Chouteau  to  found  a  village 
there,  in  1764,  for  the  headquarters  of  Maxent,  Laclede  & 
Cie.  Many  French  families  exiled  themselves  from  Illinois 
when  that  province  passed  into  English  hands  ;  and  under 
the  benign  laws  of  Spain  they  dwelt  along  the  Missouri 
shore,  trading  in  furs  with  the  northwestern  Indians,  and 
farming  along  the  rich  bottom-lands.  In  1780  the  British 
governor  at  Michilimackinac  sent  150  soldiers  and  1,500 
Indian  allies  to  attack  the  little  Spanish  capital,  but  they 
succeeded  only  in  killing  and  capturing  a  few  score  people, 
without  occupying  the  town.  After  this  (Famine  du  coup} 
St.  Louis  girded  herself  with  stockades,  bastions  and  martello 
towers;  and  Don  Eugenic  Pourre  (in  1781)  struck  back  at 
the  invaders  by  successfully  leading  65  Spanish  and  French 
soldiers  and  a  force  of  Indians  against  Fort  St.  Joseph,  in  the 
Michigan  country.  The  Spanish  lieutenant-governors  resi- 
dent at  St.  Louis  were  Don  Pedro  Piernas  (1770-5),  Fran- 
cisco Cruzat  (1775-8  and  1780-8),  Don  Ferdinando  Leyda 
(1778-80,)  Don  Manuel  Perez  (1788-93),  Zenon  Trudeau  (1793-8),  and  Delassus.  Daniel 
Boone,  the  pioneer  of  Kentucky,  became  a  Spanish  subject  in  Missouri  in  1797,  and  was 
made  Syndic  of  the  Femme-Osage  district.  In  1769  Blanchette  founded  St.  Charles,  as  a 


STATISTICS. 


2,161 
115 
2,491 

6,004 
241 

•  135,853 
^165,384,005 

•  63,995 
$24,309,716 

28,177,990 


Farm-Land  Values,       $375,633,307 
Farm_Products  (yearly)  $95,912,660 

376,977 


Public  Schools,  Average 
Daily  Attendance,  .     . 

Newspapers, 849 

Latitude.  ....  36°  to  4o°3o'  N . 
Longitude,  .  .  89°2'  to  95*44'  W. 
Temperature,  .  .  .  —22°  to  106° 
Mean  Temperature  (St.  Louis),  55" 


TEN  CHIEF   CITIES  AND    THEIR  POP- 
ULATIONS (CENSUS  OF  1890). 

St.  Louis 45i,77o 

Kansas  City, 132,716 

St.  Joseph, 52,324 

Springfield, 2i,8";o 

Sedalia 14,068 

Hannibal, 12,857 

Carthage,     .'    .' 7,981 

Nevada, 7,262 


444 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE  UNITED  STA  TES. 


military  post ;  and  a  Spanish  fort  rose  at  New  Madrid  in  1 786. 
In  March,  1804,  Don  Carlos  Dehault  Delassus  transferred  Upper 
Louisiana  to  Capt.  Amos  Stoddard,  U.  S.  A.,  who  brought  a  de- 
tachment of  troops  across  from  Illinois,  receiving  the  province  in 
the  name  of  France,  and  assuming  it  the  next  day  for  the  Ameri- 
can Government.  The  Louisiana  Purchase  made  by  the  United 
States  from  Napoleon  in  1803  included  Missouri,  which  for  a 
time  lay  in  the  District  of  Louisiana,  afterwards  the  Territory  of 
Louisiana.  The  Territory  of  Missouri,  founded  in  1812,  covered 
Arkansas,  Missouri,  Iowa,  western  Minnesota,  the  Indian  Territory, 
Dakota,  Nebraska,  and  most  of  Kansas,  Colorado  and  Wyoming. 
CATHEDRAL  sP.REsl^D  MERAMEc  It  parted  with  Arkansas  in  1819.  In  1821,  after  the  State  of 
RIVER.  Missouri  came  into  being,  the  Territory  of  Missouri  covered  the 

remainder  of  the  former  Territory,  until  1834,  when  it  became  obsolete. 

Cote  sans  Dessein  (now  Barkersville)  and  the  American  colony  on  Loutre  Island  were 
in  1807  the  Far  West  of  all  white  men's  settlements.  In  1810,  150  Kentucky  families  set- 
tled about  Franklin,  in  Howard  County,  where  a  number  of  them  were  killed  by  the 
Indians.  In  1808  Chouteau  and  Lewis  effected  a  treaty  with  the  Osages,  pushing  back 
their  frontier  to  Fort  Clark,  above  Lexington,  and  gaining  millions  of  acres  for  settlement. 
Then,  and  after  the  War  of  1812,  thousands  of  immigrants  poured  in  from  Kentucky, 
Tennessee  and  the  Carolinas.  The  application  of  Missouri  to  be  admitted  to  the  Union, 
in  1818,  was  followed  by  a  long  period  of  angry  discussion,  the  Northern  States  being 
sternly  opposed  to  the  creation  of  another 
slave-holding  commonwealth,  while  the 
Southern  people  maintained  that  since 
slavery  had  always  existed  in  Missouri 
under  the  French  and  Spanish  govern- 
ments, it  could  not  legally  be  abolished. 
Finally,  the  famous  Missouri  Compromise 
went  into  effect,  bringing  the  new  State 
into  the  Union  with  her  existing  social  system,  but  excluding  slavery  from  all  the  rest  of 
the  Louisiana  Purchase  north  of  36°  30'.  The  Platte  Purchase,  which  included  Platte, 
Buchanan,  Andrew,  Nodaway,  Holt  and  Atchison  counties,  was  acquired  from  the  Sacs 
and  Foxes  in  1836-7,  and  annexed  to  Missouri,  with  the  consent  of  Congress.  It  covers 
a  large  area  in  the  northwestern  portion  of  the  State. 

The  first  steamboat  in  Missouri  waters  was  the  Enter- 
prise, in  1815;  the  first  to  reach  St.  Louis  was  the  Gen. 
Pike,  in  1817  ;  the  first  to  ascend  the  Missouri  was  the  I)ide- 
pendence,  which  reached  Franklin  and  Chariton  in  1819. 

The  First  and  Fourth  companies  of  the  Second  Missouri 
Volunteers  fought  in  the  Seminole  War,  in  Florida,  and  de- 
feated the  savages  in  a  bloody  battle  at  Okeechobee  Lake. 
The  chief  events  of  the  following  years  were  the  deadly  visita- 
tions of  the  Asiatic  cholera,  in  1832,  1838,  1839,  and  1849; 
the  receptions  to  Lafayette  (in  1825)  and  Daniel  Webster  (in 
1837);  and  the  settlement  of  the  Mormons  at  Independ- 
ence and  Far  West,  in  1831-4,  and  their  forcible  eviction 
from  the  State.  When  the  Mexican  War  broke  out,  three 
Missouri  regiments  under  Kearney  marched  along  the  Santa 
F6  trail,  900  miles,  in  50  days,  and  changed  New  Mexico 
from  a  Mexican  province  to  an  American  Territory.  Then 
MISSISSIPPI  RIVER,  BELOW  ST.  LOUIS  these  brave  Missouri  troopers  rode  through  Chihuahua, 


ST.    LOUIS  :    THE  MERCHANTS'  BRIDGE. 


THE  STATE   OF  MISSOURI. 


445 


ST.     LOUIS   STATUES  I 
HUMBOLDT-COLUMBUS— 8HAKESPEARE-BEC 


winning  several  battles,  and  down  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 
At  the  outbreak  of  the  late  civil  war,  the  governor  en- 
deavored to  lead  Missouri  into  the  company  of  the  Confed- 
erate States,  and  a  part  of  the  General  Assembly  (not  a  quo- 
rum) declared  "the  ties  heretofore  existing  between 
Missouri  and  the  United  States  of  America,  dissolved." 
But  the  people  remained  faithful  to  the  Stars  and  Stripes, 
and  elected  a  convention  (by  80,000  majority)  which  voted 
heavily  against  Secession,  and  declared  the  Governor  and 
General  Assembly  to  be  deposed.  Governor  Jackson 
thereupon  proclaimed  the  State  to  be  "a  sovereign,  free 
and  independent  Republic,"  and  large  Confederate  armies 
assembled  in  the  southwest,  marching  up  from  Arkansas 
and  Texas.  With  four  regiments  of  Missouri  Unionists, 
Lyon  broke  up  the  encampment  of  neutral  State  troops 
at  St.  Louis  ;  occupied  Jefferson  City  and  Boonville  ;  and  pressed  the  Southern  forces  into 
the  Ozark  Mountains.  He  then  marched  against  the  enemy  in  the  South,  and  was  killed 
at  Wilson's  Creek,  where  his  5,400  troops  were  defeated  by  12,000  Confederates,  in  a  terrible 
six-hours'  battle.  When  1862  opened,  the  Southerners  held  nearly  half  Missouri,  but  Gen. 
Curtis  and  12,000  Federals  drove  them  into  Arkansas,  and  inflicted  a  crushing  defeat  at 
Pea  Ridge.  During  the  war,  army  after  army  of  Confederate  troops  invaded  Missouri, 

endeavoring  to  conquer  the  State,  and  so  possess 
also  the  great  regions  of  Kansas,  New  Mexico,  and 
Arizona.  Bands  of  guerillas,  professing  allegiance 
to  the  Confederacy  or  the  Union,  carried  on  a 
horrible  warfare,  and  destroyed  vast  amounts  of 
property.  In  1864  Gen.  Price  made  a  foray 
across  the  State  from  the  southeast  to  Jefferson 
City,  Independence  and  Lexington,  and  then 
retired  before  the  concentrating  National  armies, 
Gen.  Pope  and  Commodore  Foote  in  1862  reduced 
the  Confederate  forts  at  New  Madrid  and  Island 
No.  IO,  after  some  hard  fighting,  capturing  three 
generals,  7,000  men,  158  cannon  and  eight  steamboats.  Among  other  local  events  of  the 
conflict  were  the  Confederate  siege  and  capture  of  Lexington,  with  its  garrison  of  3,000 
men  ;  Zagonyi's  picturesque  cavalry  charge  at  Springfield  ;  Grant's  bloody  fight  at  Belmont ; 
Ewing's  defence  of  Pilot  Knob  ;  and  the  defeat  of  Johnson's  Federal  command  at  Cen- 
tralia.  Missouri  contributed  108,777  soldiers  to  the  National  Army,  and  30,000  to  the 
Confederate  army,  or  60  per  cent,  of  its  men  subject  to  military  duty.  Of  these  27,000  died 
in  the  two  services.  This  was  the  only  Slave  State  voluntarily  to  abolish  human  slavery, 
which  was  done  early  in  1865,  by  a  convention 
elected  by  30,000  majority.  Lincoln's  Procla- 
mation of  Emancipation  did  not  apply  to  this 
State,  and  of  her  own  accord  she  freed  her 
1 14,000  negroes,  valued  at  $40,000,000.  After 
the  war,  Missouri  repealed  her  stringent  emer- 
gency legislation  ;  declared  a  general  amnesty  ; 
and  became  a  liberal  Democratic  State.  She 
has  since  grown  in  wealth,  population  and 
power,  with  phenomenal  rapidity,  and  stands 
among  the  foremost  commonwealths  of  the 
mighty  West.  SIBLEY  BRIDGE  :  MISSOURI  RIVER. 


IRON    MOUNTAIN. 


446 


KING^S    HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STA  TRS. 


The  Name  Missouri  means  BIG  MUDDY 
(Mtssut,  or  Missi,  Algonquin  for  "Big,"  and  Souri 
or  Shozhay,  Dakota  for  "  Muddy"),  and  was  applied 
by  the  Indians  to  the  river  which  still  bears  it,  pour- 
ing down  in  the  springtime  laden  with  the  yellow 
mud  of  thousands  of  miles  of  prairie.  GRAND  OLD 
MISSOURI  is  an  appellation  which  Gov.  Francis  used 
in  his  campaign  speeches.  It  used  to  be  called  The 
Iron-Mountain  State,  and  also  The  Bullion  State,  and 
had,  furthermore,  a  ribald  name,  now  happily  heard 
no  more.  The  people  of  Pike  County  were  among  the  most  indomitable  pioneers  of  the  Far 
West,  crossing  the  Plains  in  ark-like  wagons  with  their  families.  They  were  called  « '  Pikes. " 

The  Arms  of  Missouri  were  adopted  in  1822,  and  consist  of  a  grizzly  bear  passant  gardant 


PILOT    KNOB. 


proper ;  on 
the  arms  of 


ST.    LOUIS  :     FOREST    PARK. 


a  chief  engrailed  azure,  a  crescent  argent;  on  the  sinister  side  argent, 
the  United  States;  the  whole  within  a  band  inscribed  UNITED  WE 
STAND,  DIVIDED  WE  FALL.  The  crest  is  a  full-faced 
grated  helmet,  supporting  a  cloud,  with  a  star  above,  and 
23  smaller  stars.  The  supporters  are  two  white  or  grizzly 
bears  of  Missouri  rampant  gardant  proper.  The  motto  is 
SALUS  POPULI  SUPREMA  LEX  ESTO,  "Let  the  Welfare 
of  the  People  be  the  Supreme  Law." 

The  Governors  of  Missouri  were  :  Territorial:  Benj. 
Howard,  1812-6;  Wm.  Clark,  1816-20.  State:  Alex. 
McNair,  1820-4;  Frederick  Bates,  1824-5;  Jonn  Miller, 
1825-32;  Daniel  Dunklin,  1832-6;  Lilburn  VV.  Boggs, 
1836-40;  Thos.  Reynolds,  1840-4;  John  C.  Edwards, 
1844-8;  Austin  A.  King,  1848-53;  Sterling  Price,  1853-7;  Trusten  Polk,  1857;  Robert 
M.  Stewart,  1857-61  ;  Claiborne  F.  Jackson,  1861  ;  Hamilton  R.  Gamble  (provisional), 
1861-4;  Thos.  C.  Fletcher,  1864-8;  Jas.  W.  McClurg,  1868-71;  B. 
Gratz  Brown,  1871-3  ;  Silas  Woodson,  1873-5  '•>  Charles  H.  Hardin, 
1875-7;  Jonn  S.  Phelps,  1877-81;  Thos.  T.  Crittenden,  1881-5; 
John  S.  Marmaduke,  1885-9;  David  R.  Francis,  1889-93. 

Descriptive. —  Missouri  is  one  of  the   most  diversified  of  the 
Western  States,  as  to  soil,  products,  climate,  and  surface,  and  extends 
through  4^  degrees  of  latitude.     The  elevation  of  the  land  varies 
from  287  feet,  in  the  southeast,  to  3,000  feet  at  Cassville.     The  noble 
Mississippi  River  forms  its  eastern  frontier,  and  the  Missouri  borders 
it  for  a  long  way  on  the  west.      A  line  drawn  from  Hannibal  to  the  ST-  LOUIS  :  FOUR  COURTS. 
southwestern  corner  of  Missouri  separates  the  prairie  region,  on  the  north  and  west,  from 
the  forest  region,  on  the  east  and  south.      North  of  the  Missouri  is  a  region  of  broken 


land,  with  for- 
pied  by  wide 
prolongation  of 


ST.    LOUIS  :     POST-OFFICE. 


ests  in  the  east  and  along  the  great  rivers,  and  the  rest  occu- 
rolling  prairies,  well-watered  and  productive,  and  in  effect  a 
the  plains  of  Illinois  and  Iowa.  Similar  high  grassy  plateaus 
run  west  from  the  Ozark  Mountains,  and  from  the 
Mississippi  to  the  Big  Black.  South  of  the  Missouri 
the  forests  of  the  east  are  offset  by  these  open  prairies 
of  the  west,  with  large  rivers,  like  the  Osage  and  Gas- 
conade, running  northeast  into  the  Missouri.  The  undu- 
lating and  fertile  lowlands  of  the  southeast,  with  their 
swamps  and  deep  woods  and  large  flat  hills,  are  rich 
and  productive,  with  a  semi-tropical  climate,  adapted 
for  raising  cotton  and  tobacco,  wheat  and  corn.  The 


THE  STATE   OF  MISSOURI. 


447 


' 


ST.    LOUIS  I    COURT-HOUSE. 


swamp  counties  are  six  in  number,  with  parts  of  four 
others ;  and  cover  3,000  square  miles.  The  rapid 
clearing  away  of  the  forests  has  opened  here  a  produc- 
tive farming  country,  only  a  part  of  which  is  liable  to 
inundation.  In  the  extreme  southeast,  about  New 
Madrid,  occurred  the  great  earthquake  of  1811-12, 
lasting  for  several  months,  the  earth  rising  and  fall- 
ing in  great  undulations,  hills  sinking,  lakes  opening, 
and  vast  fissures  and  rents  in  the  earth  ejecting  mud  and 
smoke.  On  the  day  of  the  earthquake  that  destroyed 
Caracas,  in  South  America,  these  phenomena  ceased. 

The  Ozark  Mountains  run  from  the  Missouri  River,  east  of  the  Osage,  southwest  into 
Arkansas  and  Kansas,  changing  from  isolated  hills  and  knobs  to  the  high  and  arable  table- 
lands of  the  West.  Another  ridge  runs  southeast  from  the  Ozarks  to  the  Mississippi,  and 
follows  the  river,  in  high  bluffs,  from  the  Meramec  to  Ste.  Genevieve.  This  line  of  high- 
lands includes  many  bold  knobs,  rising  from  500  to  1,000  feet,  like  Pilot  Knob  and  Iron 
Mountain.  The  delightful  Arcadia  Valley,  near  Shepherd's  Mountain,  has  the  summer- 
cottages  of  many  St. -Louis  families. 

A  large  part  of  the  State  was  originally  covered  with  woodlands,  oaks  and  elms,  hicko- 
ories  and  maples  in  the  north,  huge  cypresses  and  syca- 
amores,  cottonwoods  and  gum-trees  in  the  south,  with 
scattered  forests  of  red  cedars  and  pines,  pecans  and 
persimmons.  Great  quantities  of  hardwood  lumber  are 
cut  every  year  ;  and  the  saw-mills  of  Canton  and  Hanni- 
bal manufacture  millions  of  feet  of  pine  lumber  from 
Wisconsin  and  Minnesota  logs.  The  south  counties 
contain  immeasureable  forests  of  yellow  pine  and  live-oak. 
Northern  Missouri  is  watered  by  the  Chariton,  Grand, 
Platte  and  other  streams  flowing  to  the  Missouri ;  and 
the  Guivre,  Salt,  Fabius,  and  other  Mississippi  tributa- 
ries. From  the  Kansas  to  the  Mississippi  the  Missouri 
River  runs  east  436  miles,  a  broad,  deep  and  turbid 
stream,  with  bottoms  of  light,  deep  and  incredibly  rich 
soil.  The  Missouri  and  Mississippi  afford  highways  for  a  vast  steamboat  commerce,  and  are 
continually  under  improvement  by  United-States  Engineers,  with  snag-boats  and  working 
parties.  The  Osage  River  is  a  noble  stream,  flowing  from  Kansas  to  the  Missouri  River, 
navigated  by  several  steamboats  to  Tuscumbia  (60  miles)  and  sometimes  as  far  as  Warsaw 
(170  miles).  It  has  a  yearly  commerce  of  $600,000  in  railway  ties,  rafts  of  oak  and  wal- 
nut logs,  and  steamboat  freights.  The  Gasconade  enters  the  Missouri  below  the  Osage, 
and  is  navigated  by  three  small  steamboats,  as  far  up  as  Arlington,  the  chief  shipments 
being  railway  ties  and  wheat.  The  Lamine  is  another  navigable  affluent  of  the  Missouri. 
The  Meramec  and  St.  Francis  reach  the  Mississippi,  and 
the  St.  -Francis,  Black,  White,  and  other  Arkansas  rivers 
have  their  upper  waters  in  southern  Missouri. 

There  are  scores  of  interesting  caverns  in  Missouri, 
miles  in  length,  with  hidden  streams  and  lakes,  and  vast 
halls  and  corridors,  enriched  with  brilliant  stalactites. 
The  regions  about  Hannibal,  Springfield  and  Rolla  abound 
in  these  hidden  halls,  cutting  far  under  the  founda- 
tions of  the  hills.  In  the  south  there  are  many  mam- 
moth springs,  bursting  from  the  ground  with  great  force, 
and  pouring  their  crystal  floods  down  to  the  winding  ST  LOUIs:  6HAws  GARDEN. 


•»SAS  CITY  :    SOUTHWESTERN   ELEVATOR. 
F.   H.    PEAVEY  &  CO.  '8  SYSTEM. 


448 


KING'S  HANDBOOK   OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 


rivers.  Sweet  Springs,  midway  between  Kansas  City  and 
Jefferson  City,  is  the  most  fashionable  watering-place  in  Mis- 
souri, with  several  valuable  saline  and  sulphur  springs,  huge 
baths  of  salt  water,  and  a  hotel  and  cottages  amid  velvety 
lawns  and  a  park  of  forest-trees,  500  feet  above  St.  Louis, 
and  near  the  Black-Water  River.  Pertle  Springs,  in  the  same 
region,  has  the  large  Minnewawa  Hotel  and  many  summer- 
cottages.  The  Windsor  Spring,  with  its  calcic  waters ;  the 
Sulphur  Springs ;  and  the  famous  Montesano  Springs  are  in 
the  region  of  the  Meramec.  El-Dorado  Springs,  down  in  the 
southwest,  are  a  group  of  chalybeate  waters,  with  large 
hotels.  Excelsior  Springs,  northeast  of  Kansas  City,  are  ST-  JOSEPH  :  CITY  HALL. 

famous  for  their  efficacy  in  healing  rheumatism  and  dyspepsia  and  other  chronic  diseases. 
The  Chouteau,  Monagaw,  Cheltenham  and  Elk  waters  are  sulphurous. 

The  Climate  is  full  of  extremes,  being  devoid  of  moderating  sea-air  or  sheltering  hill- 
ranges.  It  is  dry,  owing  to  the  rapid  evaporation ;  and  the  sky  is  usually  clear  and  bright. 
The  least  rain  falls  in  April.  The  Missouri  often  remains  frozen  all  winter  ;  the  Mississippi 
sometimes  closes  at  St.  Louis  for  many  days.  Some  winters  fail  to  reach  zero ;  others 
reach  — 20°.  The  summer  temperature  averages  78.5°  in  the  southeast,  and  73°  in  the 
northwest.  The  annual  temperature  of  most  of  the  region  north  of  the  Missouri  is  48°  ; 
of  the  lagoon  country  in  the  southeast,  60°  ;  of  the  rest  of  the  State,  56°.  The  summers 
are  long  and  warm,  the  winters  usually  short  and  mild. 

Agriculture. —  This  State  ranks  third  in  the  value  of  its  farm  products.     The  chief  crops 


are  corn  (in 
20,000,000; 
is  controlled 
i ,  800, ooo 
verge  of  the 


KANSAS    CITY  :     COURT    HOUSE. 


the  northwest)  219,000,000  bushels  yearly  ;  oats,  36,000,000  ;  wheat, 
and  potatoes,  6,000,000.  The  Southwestern  Elevator  at  Kansas  City 
by  F.  H.  Peavey  &  Co.,  of  Minneapolis  and  elsewhere.  More  than 
tonsof  hay  are  produced,  largely  in  the  northwest ;  and  at  the  other 
State,  on  the  great  St. -Francis  bottoms,  20,000  bales  of  cotton  are 
raised  yearly.  Missouri  holds  the  seventh  rank  in 
tobacco,  with  a  crop  of  13,000,000  pounds,  mostly 
from  the  Missouri-River  counties.  Rye  and  barley, 
sorghum  and  hemp  are  also  abundantly  produced. 
Red  and  white  clover,  timothy,  red  top,  and  the 
rich  blue-grass  grow  abundantly,  and  since  1885 
larger  and  larger  areas  have  been  devoted  to  grass- 
culture.  Missouri  is  a  capital  fruit  State,  with  the 
apple  and  pear,  plum  and  cherry  mingling  with  the 
fig  and  nectarine,  apricots  and  the  rarest  grapes,  delicious  peaches  of  the  Ozarks,  the  apples 
of  the  Platte  Purchase,  the  Gasconade  grapes,  and  the  Jasper  strawberries.  In  the  produc- 
tion of  red  and  white  wines,  Missouri  stands  second  only  to  California. 

Missouri  ranks  as  first  among  the  States  in  the 
number  of  its  mules,  and  second  in  cattle.  The 
plebeian  stock  of  the  early  days  is  being  replaced 
by  fine  blooded  animals,  greatly  increasing  the 
value  of  the  flocks  and  herds.  The  horses  and 
mules  number  950,000;  and  the  cattle,  2,200,000. 
There  are  1,300,000  sheep,  mostly  in  the  south, 
with  its  mild  climate  and  fine  grasses.  Hogs  num- 
ber 3,200,000.  There  are  lucrative  dairies  in  the 
north,  which  also  has  a  large  product  of  eggs. 

St.  Louis  still  holds  the  primacy  in  the  American 
fur-trade,  receiving  $2,000,000  worth  of  peltries  'ST.  LouisTwANUAL  TRAINING  SCHOOL. 


THE  STATE   OF  MISSOURI. 


449 


COLUMBIA  J    UNIVERSITY    OF    MISSOURI. 


yearly.  In  the  remote  hills  a  few  elk  still 
linger,  with  deer,  bears,  wolves,  cougars,  and 
wild  cats.  Along  the  streams  dwell  the  mink, 
the  otter,  and  the  beaver.  The  birds  of  Mis- 
souri are  of  great  value,  from  wild  turkeys 
and  pigeons,  grouse  and  quail,  to  ducks  and 
wild  geese,  herons  and  cranes,  and  the  melo- 
dious thrushes  and  mocking-birds.  The  riv- 
ers abound  with  catfish,  buffalo  fish,  black 
bass,  perch,  pike,  suckers  and  sunfish. 

Mining. — The  Missouri  iron-fields  contain 

inexhaustible  supplies  of  red  and  brown  hematites,  red  oxides,  specular  iron,  and  clay  iron- 
stone, excelling  any  other  ores  in  quality.  Iron  Mountain  is  a  low,  irregular  hill,  covering 
500  acres,  capped  by  a  vein  of  hard  specular  ore,  from  six  to  30  feet  thick,  and  yielding  68 
per  cent,  of  pure  iron.  Below  occur  great  deposits  of  porphyry,  filled  with  a  network  of 
small  veins  of  ore,  which  is  continually  being  exposed  and  freed  by  the  crumbling  of  the 
rock.  It  is  not  a  mountain  of  iron,  as  generally  supposed.  This  field  was  opened  in  1845, 
and  now  has  an  enormous  output,  having  already  yielded  above  5,000,000  tons.'  It  is  80 
miles  south  of  St.  Louis ;  and  in  the  same  region  rises  the  picturesque  Pilot  Knob,  a  huge 
mound  of  600  feet  high,  containing  a  bed  of  bluish-gray  iron-ore,  from  twelve  to  30  feet 
thick,  and  yielding  above  50  per  cent,  of  strong,  tough  and  fibrous 
iron.  Shepherd  Mountain  has  vast  areas  of  uniform  magnetic 
and  specular  ore,  free  from  sulphur  or  phosphorus.  Scotia  Iron 
Banks  and  Iron  Ridge  are  great  beds  of  soft  red  herma- 
tites,  containing  masses  of  specular  ore.  The  Missouri 
Iron  Company  runs  the  valuable  mines  in  Crawford  and 
Dent  Counties.  There  are  other  iron  deposits  in  various 
localities  ;  and  the  abundance  of  smelting  coal  and  fluxes 
in  Missouri  gives  great  advantages  to  iron-workers. 
There  are  nearly  a  score  of  blast-furnaces  in  the  State. 
Lead  is  found  in  great  quantities,  especially  in  the 
magnesian  limestone,  in  the  centre,  southeast  and  south- 
west. The  long-drawn  caverns  of  Washington  County  had  millions  of  pounds  adhering  to 
their  roofs  and  sides.  Half  the  product  of  Missouri  comes  from  Jasper  and  Newton  Coun- 
ties, where  lines  of  stacks  extend  for  miles,  and  many  furnaces  are  in  active  operation. 
Thousands  of  tons  are  shipped  from  Granby  and  Joplin,  where  the  metal  comes  to  the  very 
surface  of  the  ground.  The  product  has  exceeded  90,000,000  pounds  in  a  single  year. 
Missouri  is  the  foremost  State  in  the  production  of  zinc,  yielding  12,500  tons  yearly,  from 
the  mines  in  the  far  southwest,  with  great  furnaces  at  Joplin  and  Carondelet,  near  St.  Louis. 
Copper  has  been  mined  for  many  years,  in  carbonates  and  sulphurets,  but  the  vast  output  of 

the  Michigan  region  has  closed  the  Missouri  mines. 
There  are  several  nickel-mines  in  the  State. 

Bituminous  and  cannel  coals  underlie  26,000 
square  miles  of  Missouri,  being  a  continuation  of 
the  Iowa  coal-measures  through  the  north  and 
across  the  Missouri  River,  and  between  the  Grand 
and  Osage  Rivers.  The  chief  mining  region  is  in 
St. -Louis  County,  with  seams  one  to  seven  feet 
thick,  producing  good  smelting  and  engine  coals. 
The  Osage  coal-pockets  are  anomalous  masses  of 
fine  bituminous  coal,  20  to  80  feet  thick,  in  the 
8T.-LOUI6  UNIVERSITY  AND  6T.-xAviER  CHURCH.  ravines  along  the  Osage.  Missouri  produces 


ST.     LOUIS  I     HIGH    SCHOOL. 


45° 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


ST.    LOUIS  I    MERCANTILE    LIBRARY. 


2,600,000  tons  of  coal  yearly.  She  has  also  great  quarries 
of  brown,  red  and  buff  sandstone  ;  white,  red  and  colored 
marble  ;  hydraulic  lime  and  cement,  slate  and  limestone, 
gypsum  and  grindstones.  Fully  10,000,000  pounds  of 
barytes  are  quarried  yearly.  The  fire  and  potters'  clays 
and  kaolin  employ  many  brickyards  and  potteries  ;  and 
the  fine  sand  derived  from  its  saccharoidal  limestone  has 
made  this  the  second  State  in  the  production  of  plate- 
glass.  Onyx  is  found  in  the  Ozark  Mountains. 

Government.  —  The  governor  and  six  executive  offi- 
cers are  elected  by  the  people,  for  four  years.  The  legis- 
lature includes  34  four-year  senators  and  143  two-year  representatives.  The  Judiciary 
includes  the  Supreme  Court,  with  five  justices;  the  St.  -Louis  and  Kansas-City  Courts  of 
Appeal  ;  30  circuit  courts  ;  and  ten  mifnicipal  courts.  The  State  Capitol  at  Jefferson  City 
was  built  in  1838-40,  of  Missouri  stone,  at  a  cost  of  $350,000.  New  wings  were  added  in 
1887-88.  The  great  leader  in  the  foundation  of  Missouri",  and  one  of  her  first  and  ablest 
senators  and  editors,  was  Thomas  Hart  Benton  (born  in  North  Carolina  in  1782,  and  died 
at  Washington  in  1858),  the  advocate  of  favorable  land-laws,  and  the  overland  traffic  routes. 
The  National  Guard  of  Missouri  consists  of  two  regiments,  the  First  Infantry,  of  St. 
Louis,  the  Third  Infantry,  of  Kansas  City,  14  unattached 
infantry  companies,  a  battalion  of  cadets,  two  light  bat- 
teries, and  a  troop  of  cavalry.  The  Penitentiary,  at 
Jefferson  City,  has  over  1,600  inmates,  most  of  whom 
are  kept  at  work  by  contractors.  The  Reform  School 
for  Boys  is  at  Boonville  ;  the  Industrial  School  for  Girls 
is  at  Chillicothe.  The  latter  is  on  the  cottage  plan, 
with  50  in  each  family.  The  State  Asylums  for  the 
insane  are  at  Fulton,  St.  Joseph,  and  Nevada,  and  con- 
tain 1,200  patients.  The  School  for  the  Blind,  at  St. 
Louis,  accommodates  nearly  90.  The  institution  for 
the  Education  of  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  at  Fulton  has  300  inmates  under  its  instruction. 

Jefferson  Barracks,  just  below  St.  Louis,  is  one  of  the  most  important  recruiting  stations 
of  the  United-  States  army.  The  great  National  Cemetery  near  the  Barracks  contains  the 
graves  of  11,637  soldiers.  There  are  similar  cemeteries  at  Jefferson  City  (S  1  2  graves)  and 
Springfield  (1,614). 

Education  is  maintained  by  school  funds  of  $11,000,000,  school-property  valued  at 
$9,000,000,  and  a  yearly  outlay  of  $5,000,000.  Every  district  must  have  free  schools  for 
white  and  colored  pupils,  with  graded  and  high  schools  in  the  cities.  The  State  Normal 
Schools  are  at  Kirksville,  Warrensburg,  Cape  Girardeau,  and  Jefferson  City  (the  latter 
being  for  colored  pupils),  and  have  1,  800  students. 

The   University  of  the   State  of  Missouri,  at  Columbia,  was  opened  in  1840,  and  has 


ST.   LOUIS  :    MUSEUM  OF  FINE  ARTS. 


27  professors  and  620 
the  medical  school,  20. 


students,  partly  women.     The  law  school  has  60  students,  and 
The    University's   School   of   Mines   and    Metallurgy   is   at 

Rolla.  The 
University  has 
connected  with 


r^-... 


ST.     LOUI8  :     THE    FAIR    GROUNDS. 


it  the  land- 
grant  Agricul- 
tural College, 
with  a  veteri- 
nary labora- 

tOl'y, 


THE   STATE   OF  MISSOURI. 


451 


ST.     LOUIS  :      EXPOSITION    BUILUNG. 


tural  gardens,  and  a  productive  farm.  St.  -Louis  University  is  an  important  Jesuit  institution, 
dating  from  1829,  and  with  34  instructors  and  228  students,  besides  207  in  the  commercial 
and  preparatory  schools.  In  1888  the  institution  moved  from  its  old  home,  in  the  heart  of  the 
city,  to  a  line  of  ^[  new  buildings  in  early  decorated  English  Gothic  architecture, 
on  Grand  Avenue.  The  College  of  Christian  Brothers  is  at  St. 
Louis ;  and  St.  Vincent's  College  is  at  Cape  Girardeau. 

Washington  University  is  at  St.  Louis,  the  metropolis 
of  the  Mississippi  Valley.  It  was  incorporated  in  the 
year  1853,  for  a  first-class  educational  institution  of  the 
highest  rank,  modelled  after  the  great  Eastern  universities, 
and  hoping  in  time  to  become  the  Harvard  of  the  West. 
It  was  inaugurated  in  1857,  the  oration  being  delivered  by 
Edward  Everett.  The  college  was  organized  in  1859,  and  graduated  its  first  class  in  1862. 
There  are  no  students  in  the  college  and  the  Polytechnic  School  (organized  in  1870). 
The  Law  School  dates  from  1867,  and  has  80  students  in  a  finely  organized  two  years' 
course.  This  department  has  400  graduates.  The  St. -Louis  School  of  Fine  Arts  is  a 
department  of  Washington  University.  It  was  founded  in  1879,  and  has  above  300 
students  in  drawing,  painting,  modelling,  wood-carving  and  the  connected  arts,  with  lec- 
tures, evening  classes,  and  large  collections  of  paintings  and  casts.  The  Henry  Shaw 
School  of  Botany  dates  from  1885,  and  stands  in  close  affiliation  with  the  largely  endowed 
Missouri  Botanical  Garden  and  Arboretum.  Three  other  schools  have  been  organized  and 
are  now  working  under  the  charter  of  Washington  University.  Smith  Academy  was 
founded  in  1853,  as  a  fitting-school  for  college,  and  has  320  male  students.  Mary  Institute 
dates  from  1859,  and  has  about  400  girl  students,  with  fine  buildings  and  equipments. 
The  Manual  Training 
School  is  the  most 
original  and  unique 
feature  of  Washing- 
ton University,  and 
was  the  prototype  and  — 
model  of  nearly  all 

the  others  now  at  work  in  America.  It  is  practically  a  high  school, 
whose  pupils  are  taught  for  nine  hours  a  week  in  carpentry  and 
joinery,  wood-turning  and  carving,  pattern  making,  iron  chipping 
and  filing,  forge  work,  brazing  and  soldering,  and  many  other  branches  of  bench  and 
machine  work  in  metals,  together  with  free-hand,  technical  and  mechanical  drawing.  The 
aim  of  Prof.  C.  M.  Woodward,  the  founder  and  director  of  the  school,  is  to  combine  "the 

cultured  mind,  the  skilful  hand." 

Drury  College  is  a  Congregational 
institution,   at   Springfield,   with    165 
students    and    a    library    of    20,000 
volumes.    Westminster  College  (Pres- 
byterian) is  at  Fulton.      The  north- 
eastern part  of   Missouri  contains  the 
Christian  University,  at  Canton,  and  La-Grange  College 
(Baptist),  at  La  Grange,  on  the  Mississippi.     The  Bap- 
tists also  have  William-Jewell   College,  at  Liberty,  and 
Grand-River  College,  at  Edinburg ;  and  one  at  Bolivar, 
on    the  southwest.     The    Methodists   have   colleges   at 
Warrenton,  Glasgow,  Fayette,  and  Morrisville.     There  are  40  other  small 
colleges,  and  50  academies  and   seminaries.     Concordia  College,  the  Lutheran  theological 
seminary  at  St.  Louis,  has  a  handsome  new  Gothic  building ;  and  there  are  Evangelical 


KANSAS  CITY: 
BRIDGE  UNDER 
CONSTRUCTION. 


45  2 


KING\S  HANDBOOK  OF   TH K   UNITED  STATES. 


ST.     LOUIS 
ST. -LOUIS    GLOBE-DEMOCRAT. 


Methodist,  and  Catholic  divinity  schools,  with  700  students. 
The  chief  libraries  are  the  Public  (60,000  volumes),  Mercan- 
tile (65,000),  Law  (15,000),  St. -Louis  University  (25,000), 
and  Academy  of  Science  (10,000),  at  St.  Louis;  the  State 
Library  (18,000),  at  Jefferson  City;  the  Kansas-City  Public 
Library  (12,000)  ;  and  the  State  University  (13,000). 

The  Newspapers  of  Missouri  number  756,  or  a  greater 
number  than  Massachusetts  or  California  has.  In  this  regard 
Missouri  is  the  seventh  State.  The  St. -Louis  Globe- Democrat 
is  the  leading  newspaper  of  the  Mississippi  Valley,  enjoying 
a  circulation  unequalled  by  any  other  daily  paper  published 
west  of  the  Alleghany  Mountains.  Its  principal  field  is  Mis- 
souri, Illinois,  Kansas,  Arkansas,  Texas,  and  Colorado,  with 
an  extensive  circulation  in  all  the  Western  and  Southwestern 
States  ;  and  even  on  the  Pacific  Slope  it  may  be  found  for  sale 
at  all  newsdealers.  It  is  par  excellence  a  gigantic  news-journal,  and  pays  more  money  for 
telegraphic  reports  and  correspondence  than  any  newspaper  in  the  United  States,  as  the 
statistics  of  the  telegraph  companies  show.  The  Missouri  Democrat,  founded 
in  1852,  and  The  Globe,  started  in  1872,  were  consolidated  under  the  name 
of  the  Globe- Democrat  in  1875.  Since  then  it  has  largely  increased  in  cir- 
culation and  influence  throughout  the  West,  Northwest  and  South- 
west. The  main  proprietors  since  1875  have  been  the  late  William 
McKee,  and  the  present  president,  Daniel  M.  Houser  ;  both  of 
whose  names  rank  among  the  preeminently  successful  newspaper- 
men of  this  country.  Joseph  B.  McCulla^h,  for  many  years  the 
managing  editor,  ranks  as  the  peer  of  any  editor  of  his  time.  The 
company  erected  for  its  occupancy,  in  the  fall  of  1891,  a  superb 
eight-story  stone  building,  which  is  among  the  finest  newspaper 
structures  in  the  country,  in  every  way  adapted  to  its  business,  and 
furnished  with  the  latest  machinery  in  the  way  of  lighting,  heating, 
and  elevators.  Enormous  lightning-speed  presses  of  the  latest  pat- 
terns are  used,  as  also  the  new  type-setting  machines. 

The  metropolis  of  western  Missouri  has  its  own  morning  and 
evening  newspaper  in  the  Kansas-City  Times,  whose  issues  also  go 
throughout  Missouri,  Kansas,  and  the  Indian  Territory.  This  widely-known  journal  began 
its  career  in  1868,  and  three  years  later  it  came  under  the  management  of  Dr.  Morrison 
Munford,  who  still  owns  more  than  three  fourths  of  its  stock,  Under  his  strong  and  ener- 
getic administration,  the  Kansas-City  Times  has  been  repeatedly  enlarged  and  newly 
dressed,  and  has  risen  from  a  local  paper  of  small  circulation  to  a  commanding  position  in 
the  West  and  Southwest  ;  in  fact,  one  of  the  notable  dailies  of  the  United  States,  with  an 
immense  and  profitable  circulation  and  advertising  patronage.  It  advocates  the  interests 
of  the  West,  in  season  and  out  of  season,  and  with  conspicuous  editorial  ability.  The 
Kansas-City  convention  of  1888,  whose  delegates  at  Washington  did  so  much  to  secure  the 

opening  of  Oklahoma  for  white  men,  was  called  by 
the  7"imes,  which  has  always  been  an  earnest  advo- 
cate of  settling  the  Indian  Territory  as  an  American 
State.  The  Times  occupies  its  own  building,  built 
for  its  own  use,  at  the  "Junction"  of  three  main 
thoroughfares.  In  its  own  important  locality  it  is 
the  foremost  daily  newspaper. 

Chief  Cities. —  St.  Louis  is  admirably  situated 
on  the  Mississippi  not  far  from  the  inflowing  of  the 


KANSAS     CITY   ', 
KANSAS     CITY    "TIMES. 


THE  STATE  OF  MISSOURI.  453 

Missouri  and  the  Illinois,  and  hence  occupies  a  remarkable  strategic  position  with  regard 
to  the  great  rivers  of  the  continent.  It  covers  40,000  acres,  with  a  river  front  of  19  miles, 
and  rises  in  some  localities  200  feet  above  the  Mississippi.  The  22  railways  converging  at 
St.  Louis,  and  her  immense  river-navigation,  have  given  her  control  of  the  trade  of  the 
Mississippi  Valley  and  the  Southwest.  St.  Louis  is  also  one  of  the  foremost  cotton-centres, 
the  receipts  reaching  600,000  bales  a  year. 

The  clearing-house  business  exceeds  $1,000,000,000  yearly  ;  15,000,000  tons  of  freight 
are  received  and  forwarded  yearly  ;  2,000,000  barrels  of  flour  are  made  yearly  in  the  city 
mills;  315,000,000  pounds  of  hog-products  are  exported;  21,000,000  pounds  of  wool, 
and  2,000,000  head  of  live-stock  are  received.  The  tugs  can  each  tow  10,000  tons  of 
freight  (or  enough  to  fill  13  freight  trains  of  40  cars  each)  from  St.  Louis  to  New  Orleans 
(1,241  miles)  in  seven  days,  which  is  about  the  time  of  an  ordinary  freight-train.  In  1889 
428,000  tons  of  bulk  grain  and  78,000  tons  of  other  freight  were  sent  to  New  Orleans  in 
this  way.  Each  year  940  steamboats  leave  St.  Louis  for  the  Lower  Mississippi,  800  for 
the  Upper  Mississippi,  175  for  the  Missouri,  125  for  the  Illinois,  150  for  the  Cumberland 
and  Tennessee.  There  are  2,000  men  making  100,000  stoves  and  ranges  yearly.  St.  Louis 
has  30  shoe  factories,  making  nearly  $7,000,000  worth  of  goods.  In  the  vicinity  of  the 
city  are  the  beautiful  Tower-Grove  and  Forest  Parks  (276  and  1,370  acres),  embellished 
with  statues  and  fountains.  The  Missouri  Botanical  (Shaw's)  Garden  is  rich  in  flowers, 
native  and  exotic. 

The  St. -Louis  Bridge,  crossing  the  Mississippi,  was  designed  by  James  B.  Eads,  and 
built  in  1869-73,  at  a  cost  of  $10,000,000  (including  the  tunnel).  It  is  one  of  the  noblest 
triumphs  of  American  engineering  skill,  and  includes  four  ribbed-steel  arches,  resting  on 
immense  stone  piers,  the  rise  of  the  arches  being  60  feet,  to  allow  steamboats  to  pass  under- 
neath. The  central  span  is  520  feet,  and  the  side  spans  500  feet  each.  The  upper  story 
has  carriage  and  foot-ways  ;  the  lower  story,  a  double-track  railway.  The  steel-work  on 
this  vast  structure  was  furnished  by  the  Keystone  Bridge  Co.,  of  Pittsburgh,  which  also  built 
the  Chicago,  Milwaukee  &  St. -Paul  Railroad  Bridge  near  Kansas  City.  The  Merchants' 
Bridge  was  built  across  the  Mississippi  in  1889-90,  at  a  cost  of  $6,000,000.  It  is  2.\  miles 
north  of  the  Eads  Bridge  and  2,420  feet  long. 

One  of  the  finest  office  structures  of  St.  Louis  is  the  Houser  Building,  on  the  corner  of 
Broadway  and  Chestnut  Street.  It  is  seven  stories  .high,  with  walls  of  stone  and  brick, 
floor-beams  of  steel,  and  floors  and  partitions  of  tiles,  thus 
making  an  edifice  proof  against  any  danger  of  fire.  The  in- 
terior finish  is  of  Wisconsin  red  oak,  with  marble-paved  halls, 
heavy  bronze  hardware,  and  abundant  light  on  all  sides.  Hy- 
draulic elevators  give  easy  access  to  the  offices,  with  cars  of 
wrought  iron  work.  This  handsome  structure  was  erected  in 
1889-90  by  Daniel  M.  Houser,  senior  proprietor  of  the  St. 
Louis  Globe-Democrat. 

Kansas  City  at  first  was  the  muddy  little  river-landing 
for  Westport,  and  grovelled  under  its  clay  bluffs,  frequented 
mainly  by  border  raiders.  In  1865  it  had  only  about  3,500  in- 
habitants, but  the  advent  of  the  Missouri  Pacific  Railway  and 
the  grand  western  march  of  the  American  people,  tenfolded 
its  population  during  the  next  five  years,  and  it  now  claims  to  8T-  L0 

be  the  gateway  of  Kansas,  with  its  level  lands  crowded  with  tracks  and  cars  and  the  largest 
meat-packing  houses  in  the  world.  The  municipality  of  Kansas  City,  Kansas,  the  largest 
place  in  the  Sunflower  State,  is  separated  from  Kansas  City,  Missouri,  only  by  an  unseen 
political  boundary  line,  passing  down  the  middle  of  one  of  the  streets.  In  1890,  these  con- 
tiguous twin-cities  had  a  united  population  of  over  170,000  persons,  making  up  the  largest 
community  between  St.  Louis  and  San  Francisco,  and  full  of  hopeful  and  abounding  life.  ' 


454 


HANDBOOK  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES. 


KANSAS    CITY  :     MIDLAND    HOTEL. 


The  foremost  home  for  travellers  in  Kansas  City  is  the  famous  Midland  Hotel,  opened 
in  1889,  and  one  of  the  best  hotels  in  this  country.  It  covers  an  entire  block,  in  the  most 
central  part  of  the  city,  near  the  post-office,  stores  and  theatres.  The  walls  are  of  pressed 

brick  and  terra-cotta ;  the  floors  and  partitions  of  hollow 
terra-cotta  blocks ;  the  interior  finish,  of  English  oak  and 
white  marble ;  and  the  main  stairway,  of  marble  and  iron. 
The  building  is  fire-proof,  heated  by  steam,  lighted  by 
hundreds  of  electric  lights,  ventilated  by  exhaust  ventilators, 
and  traversed  by  four  swift  hydraulic  elevators,  and  liberally 
enriched  with  cathedral  glass,  Honduras  mahogany,  Mexi- 
can onyx,  Reed  &  Barton  silverware,  Wilton  carpets, 
French-plate  glass,  Egyptian  red  marbles,  oaken  wains- 
coting and  other  artistic  beauties.  On  the  ground  floor  is 
a  great  exchange,  or  central  court,  running  from  street  to 
street,  and  giving  entrance  to  a  variety  of  convenient  stores. 
Among  the  notable  departments  are  the  billiard-room,  100 
by  45  feet,  with  Persian  rugs  on  its  marble  floor,  Lincrusta-Walton  on  the  walls,  and  oaken 
beams  overhead;  the  bar-room,  whose  crystal  and  silver  are  flashed  back  by  huge  French- 
plate  mirrors,  over  the  long  bar  of  red  Egyptian  marble ;  the  Elizabethan  writing-room, 
with  high  English  oak  wainscots  and  huge  fire-place  ;  the  baths, 
Turkish,  Russian,  electric,  sulphur,  or  any  other  kind,  with  a 
marble-cased  swimming-pool  30  by  60  feet  in  area ;  the  bridal 
suite,  hung  with  primrose  and  blue  China  silk,  and  made  bril- 
liant by  golden  cobwebs ;  and  the  grand  dining-room,  on  the 
seventh  story,  and  overlooking  the  city  and  the  Missouri  River. 
The  Midland  is  owned  by  the  Midland  Hotel  Company.  It  is 
in  keeping  with  the  many  grand  public  and  private  structures 
of  Kansas  City,  and  is  admirably  conducted. 

St.  Joseph,  on  the  Missouri,  in  the  northwestern  part  of 
the  State,  has  stock-yards  covering  440  acres,  a  jobbing  trade 
of  $150,000,000  a  year,  and  large  factories.  Hannibal  is  an 
important  Mississippi-River  port  and  railway-centre,  with  large 
shipping  and  manufacturing  interests.  Sedalia  is  one  of  the 
large  central  cities,  a  nest  of  factories  and  convergence  of  railways,  surrounded  by  rich  farm- 
ing lands.  Springfield,  far  to  the  south,  is  like  Sedalia.  Jeffer- 
son City  has  an  agreeable  situation  on  the  Missouri,  near  the 
centre  of  the  State.  Among  the  other  Missouri  cities  are  Bonne 
Terre,  among  the  southeastern  lead-mines ;  Boonville,  sur- 
rounded by  vineyards  and  mines,  on  the  Missouri ;  Carthage, 
the  metropolis  of  the  southwest;  Chillicothe,  the  trade-centre 
of  the  Grand-River  country;  Fulton,  the  chief  town  of  one  of 
the  rich  central  stock-raising  counties ;  Joplin,  a  busy  mining 
town  in  the  Ozarks ;  Moberly,  with  great  railroad  shops  ;  and 
St.  Charles,  with  coal-mines  and  car-works. 

Finances. — The  bonded  debt  has  dropped  from  $17,- 
000,000  in  1880  to  less  than  $9,000,000  in  1890,  showing  a 
highly  favorable  condition  of  financial  management  in  the 
councils  of  the  State. 

The  National  Bank  of  Commerce  in  St.  Louis  was  organized 
in  1857  as  a  State  bank,  and  reorganized  in  1889  as  a  National  Bank.  During  the  33  years  of 
its  existence  as  a  State  Bank,  it  paid  an  average  of  1 1  per  cent,  cash  dividends  to  its  stock- 
holders; and  in  the  reorganization  paid  them  also  $400  for  each  $100  of  capital  paid  in. 


ST.    LOUIS  : 

EQUITABLE  BUILDING.       GENERAL  OF- 
FICES MISSOURI   PACIFIC  RAILROAD. 


KANSAS   CITY  ! 

NEW  ENGLAND    MUTUAL    LIFE- 
INSURANCE    CO. 


ST.    LOUIS  : 
NATIONAL    BANK    OF    COMMERCE. 


THE  STATE  OF  MISSOURI. 

This  capital  is  now  $3,000,000,  with  undivided  profits  and  surplus 
amounting  to  $500,000.  The  loans  and  discounts  exceed  $8,000,- 
ooo,  and  the  deposits  exceed  $10,000,000.  The  National  Bank 
of  Commerce  has  the  largest  financial  business  in  the  Southwest, 
and  its  operations  cover  many  of  the  fast-growing  States  in  that 
rich  and  promising  region.  There  is  but  one  bank  west  of  New 
York  (the  First  National,  of  Chicago),  which  carries  so  extensive 
a  business,  or  has  such  a  large  line  of  loans  and  discounts.  W.  H. 
Thompson,  the  President,  and  J.  C.  Van  Blarcom,  the  Cashier, 
are  recognized  as  among  the  ablest  and  most  conservative  finan- 
ciers of  the  West,  and  the  institution  which  they  have  created 
ranks  among  the  powerful  developing  forces  of  the  State  of  Mis- 
souri and  the  neighboring  commonwealths. 

Kansas  City  is  the  financial  capital  of  a  large  region,  and  its 
foremost  monetary  institution  is  the  National  Bank  of  Commerce, 
which,  with  the  exception  of  the  bank  of  the  same  name  in  St. 
Louis,  is  the  largest  financial  institution  in  the  State  of  Missouri. 
When  Kansas  City  was  a  little  river-town  of  5,000  people,  in  1865, 
the  Kansas-City  Savings- Association  came  into  existence,  under  careful  but  enterprising  con- 
trol as  a  commercial  bank  (and  not  specially  for  savings).  Its  capital 
gradually  rose  to  $50,000,  and  in  1882  was  increased  to  $200,000, 
when  the  name  also  underwent  a  change,  and  the  Bank  of  Commerce 
came  into  being.  For  the  next  five  years  this  institution  paid  its 
stockholders  6  per  cent,  semi-annual  dividends,  and  then  gave  them 
$3,000  for  every  $1,000  of  original  investment.  In  1887  this  pros- 
perous corporation  was  succeeded  by  the  National  Bank  of  Commerce, 
with  $2,000,000  capital,  on  which  it  easily  earns  its  10  percent,  yearly 
dividends,  besides  accumulating  a  surplus.  The  President,  W.  S. 
Woods,  and  the  Cashier,  C.  J.  White,  occupied  the  same  positions  in 
the  Kansas-City  Savings- Association  and  the  succeeding  banks.  The 
deposits  in  the  National  Bank  of  Commerce  average  $6,000,000.  It 
has  one  of  the  largest  clientages  of  country-banks  in  the  Union,  and 
thus  enjoys  unusual  facilities  for  collections.  The  bank  occupies  a 
handsome  building,  of  attractive  and  appropriate  architecture. 

One  of  the  foremost  insurance  corporations  in  the  West  is  the 
American  Central  Insurance  Company,  which  has  grown  to  its  com- 
manding proportions  under  the  able  executive  administration  of  George  T.  Cram,  to  whom 
its  marked  success  may  be  fairly  credited.  It  was  founded  at  St.  Louis,  in  1853,  and  since 
that  date  has  paid  more  than  $6,000,000  in  losses.  The  cash 
capital  is  $600,000,  with  a  net  surplus  of  nearly  $400,000. 
The  stock  is  largely  held  by  leading  business  men  of  St.  Louis, 
and  the  assets  of  $1,500,000  are  in  the  best  of  United-States 
and  Missouri  stocks  and  bonds  and  real  estate.  The  system 
of  agencies  connected  with  the  American  Central  covers  nearly 
all  the  States  and  Territories,  and  is  managed  with  only  that 
enterprise  which  goes  with  conservatism.  At  the  great  fire  in 
Chicago,  this  company  lost  over  $300,000,  and  although  this 
sum  exceeded  its  total  assets,  every  cent  was  paid  in  full.  The 
American  Central  building  is  one  of  the  architectural  orna- 
ments of  St.  Louis,  and  covers  one  of  the  most  valuable  sites. 
Various  Eastern  companies  have  built  up  large  constituen- 
cies in  Missouri,  whose  cities  are  adorned  with  their  imposing  AMER|CAN  CENTR^'INSURANCE  co. 


KANSAS    CITY  I 

NATIONAL    BANK    OF 

COMMERCE. 


456  KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE    UNITED   STATES. 

and  magnificent  edifices.  Among  these  are  the  buildings  owned  and  in  part  occupied  by 
the  New- York  Life-Insurance  Company,  at  Kansas  City  ;  the  Equitable  Life-Assurance  So- 
ciety, of  New  York,  at  St.  Louis  ;  and  the  New-England  Mutual  Life- 
insurance  Company,  of  Boston,  at  Kansas  City. 

Railways. — In  1849  there  was  not  a  mile  of  track  west  of  the 
Mississippi  River.  Now  there  are  over  60,000  miles  in  that  iden- 
tical region.  The  Pacific  Railroad  Company  was  incorporated  in 
1849,  and  began  construction  at  St.  Louis,  in  1852,  and  in  the  same 
year,  the  first  locomotive  (the  "Pacific")  west  of  the  Mississippi 
was  placed  on  its  rails.  The  line  reached  Kirkwood  in  1853,  Wash- 
ington in  1855,  Jefferson  City  in  1856,  Tipton  in  1858,  Sedalia  in 
1 86 1,  and  Kansas  City  in  1865.  In  1876  the  company  was  re- 
organized under  the  name  of  the  Missouri  Pacific  Railway  ;  and  in 
1880  Jay  Gould  and  his  associates  assumed  control.  Since  that 
time  the  company  has  entered  upon  a  magnificent  and  far-reach- 
ing system  of  southern  extension,  covering  large  parts  of  Missouri  NEW-YORK  LIFE  INSURANCE  co. 
and  Kansas,  reaching  the  chief  cities  of  Colorado,  the  wheat-fields  of  Nebraska,  the  sugar- 
plantations  of  Louisiana,  the  cotton-fields  of  Texas,  and  the  choicest  parts  of  the  Indian 
Territory.  By  securing  control  of  the  St. -Louis,  Iron-Mountain  &  Southern  Railway,  the 
Missouri  Pacific  commands  nearly  all  the  traffic  of  Arkansas,  and  has  the  best  of  connec- 
tions for  New  Mexico,  Arizona  and  southern  California,  and  for  Mexico.  The  lines  owned 
or  leased  by  the  Missouri  Pacific  Railway  Company,  are  run  with  scientific  precision  and 
modern  comfort. 

Manufactures.  —  St.  Louis  is  the  fourth  manufacturing  city  in  America.      Missouri's 


r 


KANSAS    CITY   : 
AMERICAN    BISCUIT    AND    MANUFACTURING    CO. 


900  flour-mills  produce  over  2,000,000  barrels 
of  flour  a  year.  The  Dozier  establishment, 
at  St.  Louis  (now  connected  with  the  Ameri- 
can Biscuit  and  Manufacturing  Co.)  is  the 
largest  cracker  factory  in  the  world,  and 
can  make  1,400  barrels  of  flour  into  crackers 
daily.  The  American  Biscuit  Co.  also  con- 
trols the  large  works  at  Kansas  City,  founded 
by  J.  L.  Loose.  x 

One  of  the  most  notable  meat-packing 
houses  in  the  world  is  that  of  the  Armour 
Packing  Company,  whose  works  cover  14 
acres  in  Kansas  City,  and  furnish  employ- 
ment for  2,300  men,  with  a  yearly  pay-roll  exceeding  $1,100,000.  Here  stand  the  great 
buildings  where  150,000  tons  of  meat  may  be  kept  in  cold  storage,  chilled  by  the  product 
of  a  dozen  ice-machines,  and  an  equal  amount  may  be  prepared  for  immediate  use.  The 
daily  capacity  of  these  works  is  8,000  hogs,  1,000  cattle  and  500  sheep.  These  great  herds 
are  speedily  and  neatly  converted  into  dressed  meats,  hams  and  bacon,  lard  and  oils,  and  a 
great  variety  of  delicate  and  enriching  canned  goods,  among  them  the  world-renowned 
"Luncheon  Beef."  The  Ar- 
mour Packing  Company  was 
founded  in  1870,  and  there 
is  now  no  region  that  has 
not  heard  its  name,  in  con- 
nection with  the  best  of  pro- 
visions, prepared  here  in  the 
very  centre  of  the  great  west- 
ern cattle-raising  industry.  KANSAS  CITY  :  ARMOUR  PACKING  COMPANY. 


THE  STATE   OF  MISSOURI, 


457 


ST.    LOUIS  :     BEMIS    BRO-   bAG    COMPANY. 


Much    of  this  reputation  is 


The  recognized  leaders  in  their  particular  line  in  the  United  States  are  the  Bemis  Bro. 
Bag  Company,  who  commenced  business  in  1858,  and  moved  to  their  present  quarters,  at 
Fourth  and  Poplar  Streets,  a  few  years  since.  This 
company  has  branches  in  Boston,  Omaha  and  Min- 
neapolis, and  manufactures  all  descriptions  of  bags, 
which  find  their  final  destinations  in  many  portions 
of  the  United  States,  as  well  as  distant  parts  of  the 
world.  In  1885  the  company  was  incorporated, 
with  its  present  style.  It  has  a  paid-up  capital  of 
$750,000,  and  is  practically  a  close  corporation, 
with  increasing  business  as  the  years  go  by.  J.  M. 
Bemis  is  president  of  the  company;  and  Stephen 
A.  Bemis  is  the  secretary  and  treasurer. 

The  beers  of  St.  Louis  have  an  international 
reputation,  and  indeed  are  highly  prized  across  the  water, 
due  to  two  men,  Eberhard  Anheuser  and  Adolphus  Busch,  of  the  Anheuser-Busch  Brew- 
ing Association.  The  business  of  this  concern  is  enormous.  Their  buildings  and  yards 
cover  an  area  of  80  acres.  These  are  not  common  buildings,  but  immense  and  archi- 
tecturally impressive  structures  that  amaze  every  visitor.  They  have  been  erected  with  ex- 
ceptional taste  and  rare  solidity.  More  than  2,000  people  arc  constantly  employed.  The 
premises  are  connected  by  railway  tracks  with  the  great  railway  systems  of  the  country.  The 
company  owns  and  controls  its  own  refrigerator  cars,  which  number  800,  a  railway  plant  in 
itself,  and  the  annual  shipments  exceed  14,000  car-loads.  The  beer  is  shipped  both 

bottled  and  in  bulk.  The  refrigerator- 
cars  carry  a  sufficient  quantity  of  ice  to 
preserve  the  proper  temperature  of  the 
beer  in  bulk,  and  at  various  points 
throughout  the  country  the  company  has 
its  own  storage  ice-houses  controlled  by 
resident  agents.  The  bottling  depart- 

-tj^-=     |  )••««.,,;  j     ment  is  the  largest  in  the  world  and  sells 

j  40,000,000  bottles  yearly.  The  brew- 
I  ing  capacity  of  the  works  is  1,000,000 
barrels  or  4,000,000  kegs  annually.  The 
company,  in  addition  to  its  immense  trade  at  home,  has  a  large  export  trade  with  Mexico, 
the  West  Indies,  Central  America,  Brazil,  and  the  Sandwich  Islands,  and  large  supplies  go  even 
to  Australia,  China,  Turkey  and  Egypt.  This  is  not  merely  "America's  largest  and  most 
popular  brewery,"  but  is  also  the  greatest  in  the  world. 

The  American  Wine  Company  of  St.  Louis,  makers  of  the  delicious  "  Cook's  Imperial 
Champagne,"  has  demonstrated  that  this  country  can  compete  successfully  with  the  Old 
World  in  the  production  of  pure,  sparkling  wines,  and  that  we  have  already  learned  the  art 
of  the  proper  cultivation  of  the  grape  for  wine-making  purposes. 
Greece  were  praised  by  Anacreon,  and  so  has 
George  Augustus  Sala  made  known  the  glorious 
qualities  of  American  wines.  One  of  the  pre- 
eminent leaders  in  this  industry  was  Isaac 
Cook,  who,  in  1859,  undertook  to  produce 
wines  equal  to  those  made  anywhere  in  the 
world.  His  success  has  been  recognized  by  ^ 
awards  at  all  of  the  great  international  exposi- 
tions of  the  last  quarter  of  a  century  ;  not  only  *^m;  $$^_ 
at  the  Centennial  Exposition  in  the  United  ST.  LOUIS  :  AMERICAN  WINE  co. 


The  wines  of  ancient 


ST.   LOUIS  :    ODD-FELLOWS'  HALL. 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED  STATES. 

States,  but  also  at  the  expositions  in  the  wine-producing  countries 
of  Europe.      Nicholas  Longworth  of  Cincinnati  was  probably  the 
first  successful  producer  of  sparkling  Catawba,  when  he  brought 
out  the    "Golden  Wedding."     Among  his    contemporaries  was 
the  Missouri  Wine  Company,  mainly  owned  by  Gerard  B.  Allen 
and  Wm.  Glasgow  of  St.  Louis.    After  Mr.  Cook  had  made  a  suc- 
cess of  his  business,  he  purchased  the  plant  of  the  Missouri  Wine 
Company,  which  is  now  the  main  vaults  and  headquarters  of  the 
American  Company,  of  which  his  son,  Douglas  G.  Cook,  is  the 
active  president.     No  kindred  house  has  attained  the  same  success 
as  this  American  Wine  Company,  whose  two  brands,  "Cook's  Im- 
perial "  and  "Cook's  Imperial  Extra  Dry,"  are  to  be  found  on  the 
lists  of  every  first-class  hotel  and  in  the  hands  of  every  first-class 
dealer  throughout  America.   Besides  the  vaults  in  St.  Louis,  the  com- 
pany has  large  plants,  consisting  of  press  houses,  wine  cellars,  etc., 
at  Sandusky,  Ohio,  the  grapes  themselves  being  grown  in  Ohio.     These  wines  are  strictly 
pure  Catawba,  produced  by  a  natural  process,  the  result  of  which  makes  them  of  absolute  purity. 
St.  Louis  was  always  a  "tobacco   town"  of  more  or  less  importance,  but  for  the  past 
several  years  it  has  been,  and  is  now,  the  greatest  in  the  world,  and  Liggett  &  Myers  Tobacco 

Company  of  that   city  are  the  largest  manufacturers  of  

tobacco    on    earth.      In    1878    St.  Louis   produced   about 

6,000,000  pounds  of  tobacco,  of  which  this  company  made 

less  than  one  third,  while  in  1890  52,452,852  pounds  were 

produced,  of  which  Liggett  &  Myers  Tobacco  Company 

sold  27,418,266  pounds,  all  plug  chewing-tobacco.    Liggett 

&  Myers  Tobacco   Company's  output   for  1890  was   the 

greatest  ever  made  in  one  year  in  the  history  of  tobacco  by 

any  manufacturer,  and  exceeded  in  number  of  pounds  the 

combined  sales  of  plug  tobacco  for  that  year  of  the  two 

next  largest  factories  in  the  United  States.    This  company 

during  1890  employed  an  average  of  about  1, 800  persons, 

and  its  pay-roll  for  that  year  amounted  to  almost  $1,000,- 

ooo.      For  manufacturing  purposes  the  company  occupies 

two  immense  seven-story  brick  buildings,  also  a  brick  building  six  stones  in  height,  used 

for  a  leaf-stemmery,  and  a  warehouse  covering  half  a  block  of  ground.      It  also  owns  and 

conducts  the  St. -Louis  Box  Company,  the  most   completely  equipped   tobacco-box  factory 

in  the  world.      Liggett  &  Myers  Tobacco  Company  is  the  outgrowth  of  and  represents  the 

first  tobacco-manufacturing  concern  established  west  of  the    Mississippi.      Of  its  several 

brands  the  "Star  "  is  the  most  popular  with  consumers,  and  its  great  success  is  due  to  its  being 

at  all  times  made  of  the  best  leaf  and  the  purest  and  most  wholesome  flavoring  materials,  and 

by  an  improved  and  superior  manufacturing  process  devised  by  the  company. 

Among  its  endowments  of  preeminence  in  Christendom,    St.  Louis  holds  its  Meyer 

Brothers  Drug  Company,  as  the  largest  drug  estab- 
lishment in  the  world.  Christian  E.  G.  Meyer,  the 
President  of  this  corporation,  and  John  F.  W. 
Meyer,  his  brother,  bought  out  Wall  &  Meyer,  of 
Fort  Wayne  (Ind.),  in  1852,  and  founded  the  house 
of  Meyer  &  Brother,  which  established  a  St.  -Louis 
branch  in  1865.  The  outgrowth  of  this  beginning 
is  the  most  extensive  wholesale  drug  business  in  the 
United  States,  with  the  largest  capital  ($1,750,000), 
LOUIS  ;  LIGGETT  &  MYERS  TOBACCO  COMPANY,  and  the  largest  and  best-equipped  offices  and  build- 


ST.  LOUIS  :    LIGGETT  &  MYERS  TOBACCO  CO. 


THE  STATE   OF  MISSOURI. 


459 


ings  anywhere  to  be  found  devoted  to  this  trade.  Their 
branches  are  at  Kansas  City  (Mo.),  Dallas  (Tex.),  and 
Fort  Wayne  (Ind.),  with  a  house  at  New  York,  for  buy- 
ing, importing  and  exporting.  There  are  650  employes. 
The  St. -Louis  headquarters  is  a  handsome  five-story 
building,  of  brick  and  cut  stone,  with  170,000  square  feet 
of  floor-space,  crowded  with  herbs,  roots,  leaves,  seeds, 
flowers,  bark,  oils  and  liquors,  crude  chemicals  and 
minerals,  and  all  manner  of  medicinal  substances,  for  the 
ST.  LOU,S  :  MEYER  BROTHERS  DRUG  COMPANY.  Baling  of  the  nations.  The  house  has  a  large  export- 
trade  to  Mexico  and  the  West  Indies,  and  Central  and  South  America.  Meyer  Brothers 
Drug  Company  was  incorporated  in  1889.  The  business  is  mainly  jobbing,  although  they 
manufacture  perfumery  and  toilet  articles,  and  chemical  and  pharmaceutical  preparations. 

The  United  States  has  half  a  dozen  or  more  enormous  dry-goods  emporiums  of  the 
first  class,  like  those  of  John  Wanamaker,  of  Philadelphia ;  Marshall  Field  &  Company,  of 
Chicago  ;  and  Jordan,  Marsh  &  Company,  of  Boston ;  and  closely  following  these  comes 
Bullene,  Moore,  Emery  &  Company,  of  Kansas  City.  The  last-named  house,  founded  in 
1867,  and  with  its  buyers  in  Paris,  London,  Vienna,  and  other  great  cities,  acknowledges 
but  one  rival  in  the  whole  Western  country,  and  holds  an  easy  supremacy  in  all  the 
vast  empire  from  the  Mississippi  River  to  the  Pacific  Ocean.  The  house  in  1889-90  erected 
for  its  own  use  one  of  the  finest  retail  stores  in  the 
Union,  occupying  seven  airy  stories,  finished  in  hard- 
wood, with  200,000  square  feet  of  floor-space,  lighted 
on  three  sides,  and  with  hundreds  of  electric  lights 
after  sunset.  The  building  has  408  windows,  485 
columns,  and  eight  elevators.  There  are  three  miles 
of  brass  pneumatic  tubes,  leading  from  35  stations 
to  a  central  cashier's  desk,  to  which  they  whisk 
brass  cups  containing  money  to  be  changed.  The 
stock  reaches  $1,000,000,  and  includes  table  and 
kitchen  ware,  bedding  and  underwear,  bric-a-brac 
and  notions,  lamps  and  clocks,  pictures  and  ceramics,, 
millinery  and  dress-goods,  art-work  and  embroideries, 
gloves  and  shoes,  furs  and  sealskins,  carpets  and  curtains,  and  myriads  of  other  articles. 

The  business  of  supplying  shoes  for  several  million  people  in  the  South  and  West  and 
Southwest  has  caused  the  establishment  of  many  large  shoe  manufactories  and  selling- 
houses  in  St.  Louis.  Chief  among  these  stands  the  Hamilton-Brown  Shoe  Company,  whose 
St. -Louis  "own  make  "  glazed  Dongola  shoes  for  ladies  and  calf  shoes  for  men  are  handled 
by  over  5,000  retailers,  covering  a  vast  area  of  American  territory.  J.  M.  Hamilton  and 
A.  D.  Brown  in  1871  founded  this  business,  which  was  incorporated  in  1884,  and  now  has 
a  capital  of  $750,000,  and  employs  900  persons.  In  1883  the  house  began  the  manufacture 
of  fine  shoes  for  ladies  and  children,  and  now  it  has  one  of  the  best  and  largest  factories  in 

the  West,  with  two  acres  of  floor-space,  and  a  large  electric-light 

The  wholesale  establishment  occupies  one  of  the  finest  mer- 
cantile buildings  of  St.  Louis,  and  is  one  of  the 
best  buildings  devoted  to  the  trade  anywhere. 
The  chief  aim  of  the  Hamilton-Brown  Com- 
pany has  been  to  secure  the  highest  quality  of 
shoes.  The  house  now  sells  upward  of  $3,  - 
500,000  worth  of  goods  every  year,  and  ranks 
equal  in  business  to  any  firm  of  its  line  in 

ST.    LOUIS  :    HAMILTON-BROWN    SHOE   COMPANY.  the  whole 


KANSAS    CITY  :    BULLENE,    MOORE,    EMERY    &    CO. 


plant. 


ST.    LOUIS  I    SHULTZ    BELTING    COMPANY. 


KING'S  HANDBOOK   OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

The  important  problem  of  the  transmission  of 
power  has  received  one  satisfactory  solution  in  the 
world-famous  Shultz  leather-belting,  whose  manu- 
facture was  started  at  St.  Louis,  in  1877,  by  J.  A. 
J.  Shultz.  The  peculiarity  of  this  article  is  that 
the  leather  is  tanned  on  the  surface  only,  leaving 
the  interior  fibre  raw-hide,  which  is  softened  and 
made  pliable  by  a  patent  process.  This  kid-like 
softness  causes  it  to  adhere  to  the  pulleys,  and 
combines  with  its  great  strength  and  pliability  to 
make  a  wonderful  driving  power,  with  no  lost 
motion.  It  is  of  a  selected  stock,  carefully  put 
together  and  thoroughly  stretched,  so  that  it  can  endure  hard  service  and  great  strain,  and 
outwear  ordinary  belting.  These  belts  are  especially  adapted  for  electric-light  machinery, 
and  one  of  them,  in  the  East-River  Company's  plant,  at  New  York,  is  123  feet  long  and  58 
inches  wide,  transmitting  1,000  horse-power.  The  works  employ  100  men.  The  company 
has  a  branch  store  at  Boston.  Among  other  ingenious  Shultz  products  are  the  leather- 
woven  link-belts,  the  links  made  entirely  of  leather,  of  uniform  size  and  concave  shape,  and 
held  together  by  raw-hide  rods,  which  are  remarkably  tough  and  flexible,  and  of  light 
weight,  and  at  the  same  time  secure  the  links  as  safely  as  iron  or  steel  rods.  These  belts 
are  made  nowhere  else  in  the  world.  The  Shultz  Belting 
Company  of  St.  Louis  are  the  sole  manufacturers  under 
the  Shultz  patents. 

When  we  recall  the  ancient  and  wealthy  civilizations  of 
London,  Paris  and  Vienna,  and  even  the  comparative 
age  of  New  York  and  Boston,  it  is  amazing  to  learn  that, 
with  a  single  exception,  the  largest  jewelry  storeroom  in  the 
world,  devoted  to  the  sale  of  precious  stones,  jewelry,  sil- 
verware, bric-a-brac  and  art  goods  is  found  on  the  border 
of  the  mighty  Mississippi,  in  the  great  city  of  St.  Louis. 
Yet  this  is  the  rank  occupied  by  the  Mermod  &  Jaccard 
Jewelry  Company,  of  St.  Louis,  whose  great  five-story 
building  covers  broad  areas  on  Broadway  and  Locust 
Streets,  employing  1 60  persons,  and  exhibiting  all  classes 
of  goods  usually  kept  in  an  establishment  of  this  kind. 
The  stock  really  forms  a  grand  exhibition  ;  comprising  a  great  variety  of  watches,  diamonds, 
pearls,  rubies,  and  other  gems,  gold  jewelry,  silver,  silver-plated  ware,  clocks,  bronzes, 
pottery,  and  other  precious  and  beautiful  articles.  Incidental  are  several  departments,  sta- 
tionery, watch-making  and  repairing,  special  jewelry  to  order,  engraving,  etc.  A.  S.  Mermod 
came  to  St.  Louis  in  1845,  and  D.  C.  Jaccard  in  1848,  when  they  at  once  entered  into  the 
jewelry  business ;  later  associating  themselves  as  D.  C.  Jaccard  &  Company.  The  style 
was  after-  ward  changed  to  Mermod,  Jaccard  &  Company,  C.  F.  Mathey  entering 

the  firm  J^  in  1864;  and  Goodman  King  becoming  a  partner  in  1868.  In  1883  the 
business  became  a  corporation,  under  the  title  of  the  Mermod 
&  Jaccard  Jewelry  Company,  which  now  has  a  paid-up  capital 
of  $500,000,  and  a  large  accumulated  surplus.  In  1888  the 
new  building  on  Broadway  was  occupied.  The  house  controls 
several  special  manufactures,  and  imports  direct  almost  the 
whole  of  its  foreign  goods.  Not  only  are  its  customers  found 
in  the  West  and  South,  but  throughout  the  East  and  North  and 
Canada  and  Mexico,  and  foreigners  make  selections  from  the 
KANSAS  CITY  ;  BOARD  OF  TRADE,  stock,  which  has.  been  gathered  from  many  lands. 


ST.    LOUIS  : 
MERMOD    &    JACCARD    JEWELRY    COMPANY. 


For  ALASKA  see  page  465. 


ALABAMA.      461 


meyp    /       T 

*1/  N  L 


LCorim],     IWV^'crioo 

vft;^Mlorence-^ 

luk 
Warjer^ 


-S=aL-. \ 


\ 


>< 


lucf'im 

PSfGre-en    \^U^-,-l 
LA  W  Creek 

«ar<,  -„! 


»-a^; 


Houston 
^     S       Hac 


m?%i&m 

fr*^  0MoDtesano  ND_— o^"     ^ 


""•C 

3Somcrvi®!ft^L 


I 

\  Albertvil 

man\Blountsviner/^« 
^VchV^^ 


p          Wf 
Valley  Bead/ \W    . 

r,payne/f  U   L 


%ber^7ir  ^sa^fcffiEjwjK^sHsf 

7   S     TAfcO          |9j,  ^Q,^ fc^o^.   V  P«orriJ'  Spr«4ville/^    T»»^^'Brf'^e  *     j        K 


S   Maplesvaie^^;na  CaU  HU?S>u^\  &C^ 

-iiizie          VhJ^n(ain  Creek  .  ^  ^fl'OT^K.A.Joi 


Phoenix  ^y\^\A^  , 
Juskeeee     Girard/WC,olu 
hort",          *..     Fort  Mi 


Simpkinaville/    .Kutlcdge0 


ENGRAVED    FOR 

King's  Handbook  of  the  United  States, 

BY  MATTHEWS,   NORTHRUP  &  CO.,   BUFFALO,  N.  V. 
Copynght,\mZ   by  Moses  King  Corporation.) 


11"      Ltmgitiule  West  lO/i 


Washington 


462      ARIZONA. 


For  ALASKA  see  page  465. 


SCALE  OF  STATUTE  MILES. 
0      10    20    80    40    50    60    70    80     9O  10C 


ARKANSAS.      463 


464      CALIFORNIA,  ALASKA  and  NEVADA. 


CALIFORNIA,  ALASKA  and  NEVADA.      465 


466      COLORADO. 


CONNECTICUT.      467 


468      DELAWARE,  DISTRICT  OF  COLUMBIA  and  MARYLAND. 


FLORIDA.      469 


t.PeteriE6nr*f-ry      ' 

FLORIDA 


ENGRAVED    FOR 

King's  Handbook  of  the  United  States, 

BY  MATTHEWS,    NORTHRUP  &   CO.,    BUFFALO,   N.  Y. 

(Copyright,  1892  by  Moses  King  Corporation.) 


WESTERN      PAF?T     OF 

FLORIDA 

Same  Scale  as  main  Map. 


Went      0°  from  Washington     8°  5°    "Longitude  We»t        4°  from        Washmytun  3.92 


470      GEORGIA. 


7"    Lungitu.de  West       G°     /™r»  )Ka«Ai«</fon         6° 


IDAHO.      471 


115     Longitude      114    West  from  113    Greenwich       112" 


ENGRAVED  FOR 

King's   Handbook   of  the  United  States 

BY  MATTHEWS,  NORTHRUP  &  CO.,   BUFFALO,  N.  V. 

(Copyright,  1892  by  Moses  King  Corporation.) 


SCALE  OF  STATUTK  MILES 

10       20       30      40       60       60      70       80       90       100 


472       ILLINOIS. 


1°      Longitude 


West        90        fr 


ENGRAVED    FOR 

King's  Handbook  of  the  United  States, 

BY  MATTHEWS,   NORTHRUP  &  CO.,   BUFFALO,   N.   Y. 

{CopyngM,l69Z,  by  Moaet  King  Corporation.) 


Jbmgitudt         14        West. 


from 


For  INDIAN  TERRITORY  see  page  602. 


INDIANA.      473 


^Angola     \ 


ENGRAVED  FOR 

King's  Handbook  of  the 
O  United  States, 

BY  MATTHEWS,   NOBTHRUP  t  CO.,   BUFFALO.  N.  Y. 
882,  6j.Jf.«,JC.«( 


Holland  o'  tA  Ferdinand         Lcavenwortl 
"Fnlsnmvillp  *?  -f Bale    bt.Mcinrad 

Jjneoin  '       Leopold 

Bnffaloyille 


SCALE  OF  STATUTE  MILES 

R        1O 


474     IOWA. 


For  INDIAN  TERRITORY  see  page  602. 


IB 


KANSAS.      475 


476   KENTUCKY  and  TENNESSEE. 


87°      Longitude  West 


MAP  OF 

KENTUCKY  AND  TENNESSEE 

ENGRAVED   FOR 

King's  Handbook  of  the  United  States, 

BY   MATTHEWS,    NORTHRUP   &   CO.,    BUFFALO,    N.   Y. 

,t,  1892  by  Moses  King  Corporation.) 
SCALE    09    STATUTE    MILKS. 
0 10          20  80          40  50          eo          70          80          90        100 


KENTUCKY  and  TENNESSEE.   477 


£ 


\Georgetown  .„» 

^*         .**  >> 


Jeflerlt; 

'f^TET757 


KPSREBHS^S.^BSs:ti-V 


toganC.H. 


fowersburg      /       c  rine  anov      i      ^(  , 

Fa,,tt<  GtS^,   oBJrlrto'"'          /          1\Vinfieid"VJeUicq^,: 


^r— -/o^-^^oi  \z?it$S^ 

J^.-X^ •  -  !4— -^Oakdal^^  ^X        '->-^I^Nr7 l.iu,dri,lge/\rJ^5r 

S^»|-  4.,-^      S-i  «•«  n.JL^iK-<  K^ivillgJX^^-^^K-,0^ 

S-U&ih^JS^ 

I  /§  x 


Erf       os,,,,,     > 
?ryvilleo      0  Pokjborrg 

i'al. 
Gatlinburg  , 


9-Vj 

,  ^ 


t^  Franklin  .xV 


47$       LOUISIANA. 


For  MARYLAND  see  page  468. 


MAINE.      479 


EBEEME  MT. 
Katalidin  Iro^VS'irks 


MAP  OF 

MAINE 


ENGRAVED     FOR 

King's   Handbook  of  the  United  States, 

BY  MATTHEWS,    NORTHRUP  &  CO.,   BUFFALO,   N.   Y. 

(CopyrigM,l8K,by  Moses  King  Corporation.) 

SCALE  OF  STATUTE  JULES. 
0  20  30  40  50  60  70  80  90  100 


480       MASSACHUSETTS.         For  MARYLAND  see  page  468. 


For  MICHIGAN  see  next  page. 


MINNESOTA.      481 


Longitude       94°  West       Jrom  93 "   Greenwich      92 


.0,016  <X  ^  PaynesyiU^X'- Torab      ^^V*.  I    AVyomingL--^ 

^^S^Ssa^^KSf 


MAP  OF 

MINNESOTA 

ENGRAVED   FOR 

King's  Handbook  of  the  United  States, 

BY  MATTHEWS,   NORTHROP  A  CO.,  BUFFALO  AND  NEW  YORK. 
(.Copyright,  1892, oy  Motes  King  Corporation.) 


.8°     Longitude        17°  Weft        from     16°    -Wastdngton       15° 


482       MICHIGAN  and  WISCONSIN. 


MAP  OF 

MICHIGAN 

AND 

WISCONSIN 


King's  Handbook  of  the  United  States, 


BY  MATTHEWS,   NORTHRUP  A  CO.,    BUFFALO,   N.    Y. 
(Copyright,  1882,  by  Moses  King  Corporation.) 


MICHIGAN  and  WISCONSIN.       483 


MISSISSIPPI. 


MISSOURI.      485 


486      MONTANA. 


For  NEVADA  see  page  464. 


For  NEW  HAMPSHIRE  see  page  606.  NEBRASKA.      487 


488       NEW  JERSEY. 


For  NEVADA  see  page  464. 


75°  30'  ZonyituJ, 


tlantic  City 

h  Atlantic 

NEW  JERSEY 


ENGRAVED     FOR 

v_  King's   Handbook,  of  the  United  States, 

nd  Inlet  BY  MATTHEWs,  NORTHRUP  &  CO.,  BUFFALO,  N.  Y. 

C.H. 


For  NEW  HAMPSHIRE  see  page  506.  NEW  MEXICO.      489 


107°       Longitude       100    Wext        from     105°     Greenwich        104° 


MAP  OF 

NEW  MEXICO 

ENGRAVED  FOR 

King's  Handbook  of  the  United  States, 


MATTHEWS,    NORTHRUP  A   CO.,    BUFFALO  AND  NEW  YORK. 
(.Copyright,  1892^6^  Mutes  King  Corporation.) 


Jprrales/f ' Alauicda  oSan  Pedro    ^'-tia^^ftniou 

i\V"u..(/'Albuqyiergue          ^  coiopal 

/         Wlsleta,.^,.,!,,  -^^_~>_     J_ . 


490       NEW  YORK. 


Vest 77°  from  Greenwich  7< 


MAP  OF 

NEW  YORK 

ENGRAVED    FOR 

King's  Handbook  of  the  United  States, 

BY   MATTHEWS,    NOBTHRUP   <&   CO.,    BUFFALO,    N.    Y. 
(Copyright,  1892(6j(  Moses  King  Corporation.) 

SCALE    OP    STATUTE    MILES. 
10  20  30  40  50  60  70  80  90 


West  \°  from 


Washington 


NEW  YORK.       491 


P*     kt^TTS  <*»"-' ..U-x5t^>^Vsi3^^^Jl/, 


492       NORTH  CAROLINA. 


NORTH  DAKOTA.      493 


°s 


494     OHIO. 


For  OKLAHOMA  see  page  602. 


84°  longitude 


from       82  °         Greenwich 


JL.St. 
Cla 


VMU<T 


toinjton 


^ss^^^j^ssr^^sp^^rv^^Mri^m 

T^lsrH  j^fe-v^W  SCS^SO    Pr/^s^rxiH-i 


"N.  V-W^lS^^Sv^P"8pl><Xi *  ' 

tto^JiVandria^R;^ 

/  '"V  ^xdhi^^s^r  •?' 


\ 

Nsbonv 


gWfyA 

ENGRAVED    FOR  T3*  V_  f 

King's  Handbook  of  the  United  States,         /  ^JV 

BV  MATTHEWS,   NORTHROP  *  CO.,   BUFFALO,   N.  Y.  L.  ^S 

Cot,  IS90  by  Mose»  King  Corporation.)  V  /        J 

ALE  OP  STATUTE  MULES.  ^~"V  \ 


J'rvm  5"  Washington 


For  OKLAHOMA  see  page  602. 


OREGON.    495 


496       PENNSYLVANIA. 


^^-Lucinda^-01^^^^-    -U^^J^^^ 


8W3T 

9 

3^k^H»tafS^"^:o«ut 

;fe^X-i}Ea3tBtl>etf*«ar 


Ft 

Coal  Hi 


Urampian 


Ofci»]£S>'0  _JHS    WUdwoodj,  ^%^-^Xghady3  Plain  ?IUi.2&  ' 

Grfen  Gardc^f  W  Sewickley     &*JFlB$'         \foApolloCreteO     j^.ana , 


arrollt.  ._  , 

aburg    JjfV       Angora     o       Lorett 
'Black  Lick  Sta.Ebensb'1 


DavidaviU 
t.Plea.ant       Jenner.town 


"^-^--<arWashingt6n->«'.-=   \V>pmnn«on    Mt-l-leaaant       Jenn, 

Oon  nellsv  i  I  leBakeraville/r^ 
gjfoven jrB( 


l«.  0»%.  ll.  «Bl.. 


PENNSYLVANIA. 


497 


Longitude       70°      West 


fnm 


MAP    OF 

PENNSYLVANIA 

ENGRAVED   FOR 

King's   Handbook  of  the   United  States, 

BY   MATTHEWS,    NORTHRUP   &    CO.,    BUFFALO,    N.   Y. 
(Copyright,  1891  6y  Moses  King  Corporation.) 

SCALE  OF  STATUTE  MILES. 
>  ^0  90  40  80  60  7.0 


498      RHODE  ISLAND. 


RHODE    ISLAND 

ENGRAVED   FOR 

King's   Handbook   of  the  United  States, 

BY  MATTHEWS,    NORTHRUP  A  CO.,   BUFFALO,    N.   V. 

(Copyriffht,l&W,l>y  Moses  Ring  Corporation.) 


6J5S       11. 9Z 


SOUTH  CAROLINA.      499 


500      SOUTH  DAKOTA.  For  TENNESSEE  see  page  477. 


For  TEXAS   see  next  page. 


UTAH       501 


1133  Longitude 


from  Ul°     Greenwich 


MAP    OF 

UTAH 


ENGRAVED    FOR 

King's  Handbook  of  the  United  States 

BY  MATTHEWS,  NORTHROP  A  CO.,  BUFFALO,  N.  Y 


(Copyright,\W1,  by  Moses  King  Corporation.) 


SCALE    OP    STATUTE    MILES. 
0        10      20        30     40       90      6"0       70     80      90 


^ecoma.;;:j;v.v.;;:..;-...,, 
'iu°:d$P&$f 


Longitude          30 J    IKcst 


504      VIRGINIA  and  WEST  VIRGINIA.  For  WISCONSIN  see  page  482. 


For  WASHINGTON  see  page  507.  VIRGINIA  and  WEST  VIRGINIA.      505 


79°          Greenwich 


MAP    OF 

IRGINIA  AND  WEST  VIRGINIA 


King's  Handbook  of  the  United  States, 


BY    MATTHEWS,    NORTHRUP    &    CO.  ,   BUFFALO,   N.    Y. 
(Copyright,  iS90,  by  Moses  King  Corporation.) 

lLKS. 


506      VERMONT  and  NEW  HAMPSHIRE.  For  VIRGINIA  see  preceding  page. 


MAP  OF 

VERMONT  AND  NEW  HAMPSHIRE 


King's   Handbook   of  the  United   States.      /"\        A 

Br    MATTHEWS,    NORTHRUP    &    CO.,     BUFFALO.   N     V.     \  V^*T**        /?"\*"       \ 


For  WISCONSIN  see  page  482. 


WASHINGTON.       507 


508      WYOMING. 


For  WISCONSIN  see  page  482. 


BONANZA  SK 


HISTORY. 

The  discoverer  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains  was  the 
Chevalier  de  la  Verendrye, 
a  young  Canadian  officer. 
In  1742-3,  with  his  brother 
and  two  French-Canadians, 
he  marched  from  Fort  la 
Reine,  on  the  Assiniboine, 
up  Mouse  River  and  across 
to  the  Mandan  villages,  whence  they  ascended  the  Missouri 
to  the  Gate  of  the  Mountains,  in  company  with  a  great 
Sioux  war  party,  and  established  a  monument  bearing  the 
arms  of  France,  in  whose  name  they  claimed  these  lonely 
deserts.  Over  sixty  years  passed  before  the  exploring  party 
of  Lewis  and  Clarke  traversed  Montana,  ascending  the  Mis- 
souri, examining  the  Great  Falls,  and  then  crossing  the  Lolo 
Pass  into  Idaho.  The  Missouri  Fur  Company  was  founded 
in  1 808  by  Clarke,  Labaclie,  Mesnard,  Lisa  and  the  Cho-u teaus. 
The  Rocky-Mountain  Fur  Company  commenced  operations 
in  1822,  and  in  1 834  united  with  the  American  Fur  Company. 
For  the  first  half-century  all  the  goods  used  on  the  upper 
Missouri  were  cordelled,  or  dragged  by  human  labor,  all  the 
long  2,000  miles  or  more  from  St.  Louis.  In  1831  Chouteau 
had  the  steamboat  Yellowstone  built  at  Pittsburgh,  and  she 
ascended  to  Fort  Pierre  and  (in  1832)  Fort  Union.  In  1860 
the  Chippewa  went  up  to  Fort  Benton  ;  and  in  1865  the  Tom 
Stevens  reached  Portage  Creek,  five  miles  below  the  Great 
Falls.  Fort  Union  was  built  by  Kenneth  McKenzie  and 
fifty  men  of  the  American  Fur  Company,  in  1829,  as  a  centre 
of  trade  with  the  Assiniboines.  Sublette  and  Campbell 
founded  a  post  on  the  site  of  Fort  Buford,  in  1833.  Fort 
Benton  was  built  by  Alex.  Culbertson,  of  the  American  Fur 
Company,  in  1846,  and  became  United- States  property  in 
1869.  Fort  Buford  was  erected  in  1866,  near  Fort  Union. 


STATISTICS. 


Settled  at  . 
Settled  in  . 
Founded  by 


Fort  Union. 

.     .          1829 

Fur  Traders. 


Admitted  to  the  U.  S.,  .  .  1889 
Population  in  1870,  .  .  .  •  20,595 

In  1880, 39,159 

White, 35,385 

Colored, 3,774 

American-born,  .  .  .  27,638 
Foreign-born,  ...  11,521 

Males, 28,177 

Females, 10,982 

In  1890  (U.  S.  Census),  .  132,159 
Population  to  the  square  mile,  0.3 
Voting  Population,  .  .  .  21,544 
Net  State  Debt,  .  .  .  None. 
Assessed  PropertydSgo),  $106,000,000 
Area  (square  miles),  .  .  .  146,080 
U.  S.  Representatives  (1893),  i 

Militia  (Disciplined),  ...  677 

Counties, 17 

Post-offices, 393 

Railroads  (miles),  ....  2,181 
Manufactures  (yearly),  .  $1,835,867 

Operatives, 578 

Yearly  Wages,  .  .  .  $318, 759 
Farm  Land  (in  acres),  .  .  405,683 

Farm-Land  Values,      .    $3,234>5°4 

Farm  Products  (yearly)  $2,024,923 
Public  Schools,  Average 

Daily  Attendance,  .  .  .  8,600 

Newspapers, 66 

Latitude 44^6' to  49°  N. 

Longitude,  .  .  .  104°  to  116"  W. 
Temperature,  .  .  .  — 63°toiuo 
Mean  Temperature  (Helena),  43 

TEN  CHIEF  CITIES  AND  THEIR  POPU- 
LATIONS.    (Census  of  1890.) 

Helena,  .    .    .    .    •     •    •     •  13,834 

Butte I0>723 

Great  Falls, 3,979 

Anaconda, 3,97"? 

Missouia,      .......  3,426 

Livingston, 2>85° 

Bozeman, 2>I43 

Walkerville,     ....•••  i>743 

Marysville, «.4g 

Deer-Lodge  City l,4°3 


In  1861  this  vast  territory  was  occupied  by  wandering  Indians,  and  the  only  civilized  dwel- 
lers were  fur-traders  and  the  priests  at  the  lonely  Northern  missions.  The  mission- 
ary enterprises  of  Father  de  Smet  and  other  devoted  priests  began  here  about  half  a  cen- 


MONTANA    COWBOYJ 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

tury  ago,  during  the  era  of  the  fur-traders.  The  gold-discoveries  of  1861,  and  the  rich 
treasures  of  placer-gold  found  in  Alder  Gulch  in  1863,  drew  to  Montana  thousands  of  adven- 
turers from  all  over  the  Union.  The  gold-dust  in  Alder  Gulch  yielded  $25,000,000  in  a  few 
months.  It  has  been  jocularly  stated  that  Mon- 
tana was  first  settled  by  the  left  wing  of  "Pap" 
Price's  Confederate  army,  shattered  at  the  battle 
of  Pea  Ridge,  Missouri,  and  not  venturing  to 
pause  in  their  flight  until  safe  in  the  shelter  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains.  The  van-guard  of  colo- 
nization did  indeed  come  from  Missouri,  and  one 
of  the  chief  towns  of  the  Territory  was  named 
for  Jefferson  Davis's  daughter.  Before  long 
the  mining-camps  were  the  prey  of  their  worst  elements,  and  murder  and  robbery  were 
events  of  hourly  occurrence ;  and  then  the  citizens  formed  powerful  vigilance  committees, 
and  rid  the  Territory  of  its  refuse  population,  banishing  many  and  putting  others  to  death. 
The  most  prominent  man  in  Territorial  days  was  Benjamin  F.  Potts,  who  won  the  stars 
of  a  general  in  the  civil  war,  and  then  became  an  Ohio  State  Senator.  He  served  as  gov- 
ernor of  Montana  from  1870  to  1883,  with  signal  ability  and  success.  He  died  in  1887, 
and  is  buried  at  Helena. 

The  Indian  wars  and  the  advance  of  the  pioneers  are  recorded  in  Leeson's  great  1400- 
page  History  of  Montana.  The  First  Montana  Cavalry  took  the  field  in  1867  ;  and  after  the 
disastrous  battle  with  the  Nez  Perces  at  Big  Hole,  ten  years  later,  twelve  companies  of  Ter- 
ritorial militia  were  mustered  to  defend  the  settlements.  Large  National  forces,  led  by  the 
best  officers  of  the  army,  have  campaigned  among  these  stern  valleys  for  many  years,  facing 
a  powerful  and  wily  foe.  The  most  direful  tragedy  in  their  annals  occurred  on  the  Rosebud 
River,  in  June,  1876,  when  Gen.  Custer  advanced  against  the  great  Sioux  village,  at  the 
head  of  the  7th  United- States  Cavalry.  Taking  five  troops  to  make  an  attack  on  one  side, 
he  sent  seven  troops  under  Reno  and  Benteen  to  charge  up  the  valley.  The  latter  force  was 
repelled  and  besieged  on  the  bluffs,  and  Custer's  detachment,  enveloped  by  thousands  of  In- 
dians, was  annihilated  to  the  last  man.  A  National  Cemetery  now  occupies  a  part  of  the 
battle-ground.  The  Sioux  and  other  tribes  kept  up  their  pitiless  warfare  until  Gen.  Miles 
with  a  small  force  inflicted  upon  them  a  series  of  defeats,  in  the  campaign  of  1876-7.  Since 
the  era  of  rail  way -building  set  in,  line  after  line  of  rails  has  been  laid  across  Montana,  fol- 
lowed by  hundreds  of  towns,  until  the  lone  land  o!" 
1860  has  developed  into  a  busy  State. 

The  Name  Montana  means  "of  or  belonging  to 
the  mountains,"  and  is  of  Latin  origin.  The  In- 
dian name  for  the  country,  T6  Yabe- Shock'  up,  had 
the  same  meaning,  The  Country  of  the  Mountains. 
The  pet  name,  THE  BONANZA  STATE,  on  account 
of  its  many  bonanza  mines,  was  given  by  Judge 
John  Wasson  Eddy,  and  has  been  very  generally 
accepted. 

The  Arms  of  Montana  show  a  plow,  with  a 
miner's  pick  and  shovel,  a  buffalo  retreating,  and 
in  the  background  a  brilliant  sun  setting  behind  the 
Rocky  Mountains.  The  motto  is  ORO  Y  PLATA,  Spanish  words  signifying  "Gold  and  Silver." 
The  Governors  of  Montana  have  been  :  Territorial:  Sydney  Edgerton,  1864-5  ;  Thos. 
Francis  Meagher  (acting),  1865-6;  Green  Clay  Smith,  1866-9;  Jas-  M-  Ashley,  1869-70; 
Benj.  F.  Potts,  1870-83;  John  Schuyler  Crosby,  1883-4;  B.  Platt  Carpenter,  1884-5;  Sam- 
uel  T.  Hauser,  1885-7;  Preston  H.  Leslie,  1887-9;  and  BenJ-  F-  White,  1889.  The  first 
State  governor  was  Joseph  K.  Toole,  1889-93. 


MISSION    MOUNTAIN,    IN    THE    FLATHEAD    COUNTRY. 


THE  STATE   OF  MONTANA. 


5" 


GREAT    FALLS  '.     WAGON-BRIDGE. 


Descriptive. — Montana  is  one  of  the  far 
Northwestern  States,  a  fifth  of  its  area  lying 
beyond  the  Rocky  Mountains,  on  the  high 
plateau  between  the  Continental  Divide  and 
the  Bitter-Root  Range.  On  the  north  are 
the  Canadian  provinces  of  Assiniboia,  Alberta 
and  British  Columbia ;  on  the  east,  the  Da- 
kotas;  on  the  south,  Wyoming;  and  on  the 
southwest  and  west,  Idaho.  The  northern  boundary  was  surveyed  in  1872-5,  by  American 
and  British  officers,  and  marked  with  iron  pillars.  Montana  is  in  two  diverse  sections,  the 
eastern  two  thirds  consisting  of  rolling  plains,  clothed  mainly  with  sage-brush  and  bunch- 
grass,  and  ascending  westward  from  a  height  of  2,000  to  4,000  feet.  The  western  third  is 
the  mountain-region,  covering  50,000  square  miles  of  ranges,  from  8,000  to  n,ooofeet  high, 
with  lofty  valleys  and  passes.  In  the  south  the  mountains  are  cut  by  low  notches ;  but  in 
the  north  they  stand  like  unbroken  Titanic  walls.  The  elevation  is  so  much  less  than  that 
of  Colorado  and  Wyoming  that  the  climate  is  favorably  affected  thereby,  counterbalancing 
the  temperature  natural  to  its  higher  latitude.  The  area  of  Montana  exceeds  that  of  the 
British  islands,  or  of  New  England,  New  York,  New  Jersey,  Delaware  and  Maryland  com- 
bined. Its  northern  frontier  equals  in  length  the  distance  from  Boston  to  Richmond,  and  is 
as  far  from  its  southern  extremity  as  Long-Island  Sound  is  from  Montreal.  Its  area  includes 

30, 000,000  acres  of  farm-lands,  38, 000,000  of  graz- 
ing lands,  and  26,  ooo,  ooo  of  woods  and  mountains. 
There  are  forests  of  pine  and  cedar,  along  the 
mountains  and  down  the  great  valleys.  Tongue 
River  has  valuable  growths  of  black  ash  ;  and  Hell- 
Gate  River  flows  through  noble  forests  of  yellow 
pine.  A  profitable  lumbering  business  has  been 
developed,  and  saw-mills  occupy  many  of  the 
water-powers.  The  fertile  valleys  of  the  mountains 
may  be  irrigated  and  cultivated  with  success.  The 
farm-products  bring  good  prices,  in  the  great  min- 
ing-camps and  cities  of  Montana.  The  broad  bench-lands  and  valleys  of  the  east  can  be  cul- 
tivated only  by  the  aid  of  extensive  irrigation-canals,  and  the  rivers  are  adequate  to  water 
only  a  part  of  the  agricultural  lands  of  this  vast  parched  area.  Private  enterprise  has  built 
costly  canals  in  many  localities.  The  Gallatin  Canal,  twenty  feet  wide  and  four  feet  deep, 
takes  water  from  the  West  Gallatin  River,  where  it  issues  from  the  mountains,  and  refreshes 
the  valley  above  Bozeman  for  twenty-two  miles.  The  Sun-River  Canals  are  over  100  miles 
long,  with  immense  reservoirs.  The  Tongue-River  Canal  is  twenty-nine  miles  long,  five  feet 
deep  and  fourteen  feet  wide  on  top.  The  Billings  Ditch  is  thirty  miles  long  and  six  feet  deep. 
More  than  half  of  eastern  Montana  is  in  dry  rolling  prairies  of  immense  extent,  without 
trees  or  farming  capabilities.  Near  the  mountains  they  bear  a  luxuriant  growth  of  nutriti- 
ous bunch-grass,  but  as  they  fall  away  toward  the  east  the  arid  soil  is  monopolized  by  sage- 
brush and  greasewood.  The  Bad  Lands  (Mauvaises 
Terres)  of  the  Lower  Yellowstone  are  a  labyrinth  of 
singular  forms,  with  a  soft  and  disintegrating  clayey 
rock,  in  whose  powdery  soil  animals  sink  to  their  fet- 
locks. When  it  is  wet  this  substance  becomes  a  sticky 
mud,  of  perilous  depth  and  tenacity.  Everywhere  are 
found  in  this  tangle  of  ravines  and  natural  architecture 
the  bones  of  myriads  of  extinct  animals,  a  weird  mau- 
soleum of  unknown  forms.  Gen.  Sully  aptly  charac- 
terized this  region  as  "hell,  with  the  fires  out." 


THE   THREE    FORKS    OF   THE    MISSOURI. 


CLARKE'S   FORK  :     HORSE   PLAINS. 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

Near  the  headwaters  of  the  Missouri,  Jefferson, 
Madison,  Sun,  Teton  and  Marias  Rivers  extend 
broad  areas  of  arable  land.  The  Gallatin  Valley, 
35  by  twelve  miles  in  area,  has  a  mild  and  pleasant 
climate,  and  is  already  partly  cultivated,  with 
several  prosperous  towns.  It  has  been  called  ' '  The 
Egypt  of  Montana,"  on  account  of  its  rich  soil  and 
plenteous  farm-products,  exceeding  $1,000,000 
a  year,  in  cereals,  hay,  potatoes,  fruits,  and  live- 
stock. The  Judith  Basin  is  a  tract  of  1,500  square  miles  of  grassy  prairie,  running  south- 
ward from  the  Missouri  to  Judith  Gap. 

The  country  north  of  the  Missouri  is  an  immense  rolling  prairie,  broken  by  the  forests 
of  the  Little  Rocky  and  Bear-Paw  Mountains  and  the  Sweet-Grass  Hills.  This  tract  of 
18,000,000  acres  of  virgin  soil,  formerly  reserved  for  the  Gros-Ventre,  Piegan  and  River-Crow 
Indians,  was  thrown  open  for  settlement,  by  the  President's  proclamation,  in  May,  1888. 
The  Sweet-Grass  Hills  (or  Three  Buttes),  72  miles  from  Fort  Assiniboine,  are  above  8,000 
feet  high,  and  abound  in  timber  and  coal,  gold  and  silver,  copper  and  lead.  The  Kalispel 
country  is  a  wedge-shaped  region  nearly  as  large  as  Connecticut,  west  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, and  including  Flathead  Lake  and  the  homes  of  the  Flathead  and  Pend  'Oreilles  tribes. 
Very  few  whites  have  settled  in  this  great  lonely  land. 

The  main  range  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  forms  the  southwestern  frontier,  from  the  head 
of  the  Madison  River  to  Missoula  County,  and  then  bends  northeast  into  the  State,  crossing 
it  for  300  miles,  east  of  Deer  Lodge  and  Flathead  Lake,  and  then 
entering  Canada.  The  great  Bitter-Root  Range  derives  its  name 
from  a  plant  with  rose-colored  blossoms,  whose  pipestem-like 
roots  are  dug  up  by  the  Indian  squaws  for  winter  food.  The 
chief  summits  of  the  range  are  Lolo  Peak  and  St. -Mary's  Peak. 
The  Bitter-Root  Valley,  on  the  east,  is  90  miles  long  and 
seven  miles  wide,  enwalled  by  noble  mountains,  and  abounding 
in  farms  and  corn-fields.  The  Snowy  Mountains,  near  the  bend  BEAVER-HEAD  ROCK. 

of  the  Yellowstone  ;  the  Wolf  and  Powder-River  Ranges,  in  the  southeast ;  the  Pryor  Moun- 
tains, west  of  the  Big-Horn ;  the  Crazy,  Big-Belt,  Little-Belt,  Highwood,  Judith  and  Bull 
Mountains,  between  the  Yellowstone  and  Missouri ;  and  the  Kootenai  and  Cabinet  Ranges,  in 
the  far  northwest,  nobly  diversify  the  face  of  the  country,  lifting  their  purple,  blue  and  gray 
summits  over  the  long  levels  of  the  Plains,  and  crowned  for  many  months  with  dazzling  snows. 
Two  of  the  greatest  rivers  in  America  take  their  rise  here.  Clarke's  Fork  of  the  Colum- 
bia is  formed  by  the  confluence  of  the  Flathead  and  the 
Missoula,  and  runs  northwest  around  the  Bitter-Root 
Range  into  Idaho,  sweeping  through  narrow  wooded 
glens.  The  Missouri  River  is  formed  at  Three  Forks,  in 
the  Gallatin  Valley,  by  the  confluence  of  the  Jefferson, 
Madison  and  Gallatin  Rivers.  The  Jefferson  is  the  chief 
stream,  250  miles  long.  The  Missouri  has  1,300  miles 
of  its  course  in  Montana.  At  Three  Forks,  the  stream 
may  be  forded,  at  low  water,  being  but  500  feet  wide  ; 
and  it  is  navigable  from  here  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  ex- 
cept for  the  Great  Falls.  Nearly  to  Fort  Benton  (250 
miles)  it  traverses  a  valley  75  miles  wide.  Its  chief 
tributaries  are  the  Sun,  Teton  and  Marias,  from  the 
Rockies ;  the  Milk,  traversing  Alberta  and  Assiniboia ;  and 
the  Musselshell,  from  the  south.  The  two  last  are  nearly 
ROCKY-MOUNTAIN  SCENERY.  ^r7  at  their  mouths  in  autumn.  The  Gate  of  the  Moun- 


THE  STATE   OF  MONTANA. 


5*3 


PRICKLY-PEAR  C 


tains  is  the  canon  traversed  by  the  Missouri  1 8  miles  east  of 
Helena,  cutting  for  five  miles  through  a  pinnacled  and  castel- 
lated gorge  of  grayish  white  rock  from  600  to  1,000  feet  deep. 
This  sombre  ravine  was  named  by  Lewis  and  Clarke.  Its  walls 
are  precipitous  most  of  the  way,  with  no  footing  between  the  water 
and  the  mountain-side.  The  river  is  narrowed  to  300  feet,  with  a 
depth  of  over  ten  feet ;  and  its  placid  surface  reflects  the  cliffs  and 
forests  like  a  vast  mirror.  Ten  miles  below  the  Gate,  the  Missouri 
traverses  Atlantic  Canon,  at  whose  end  rise  the  rocky  tusks  of 
Bear's-Tooth  Mountain,  2,500  feet  above  the  river,  and  one  of  the 
most  famous  northern  landmarks.  The  steamboat  Rose  of  Helena 
navigates  these  wild  gorges,  for  pleasure  travel.  Forty  miles  below 
the  canon  is  the  Long  Pool,  famous  for  the  mysterious  cannon-like 
booming  which  from  time  to  time  reverberates  over  its  placid  sur- 
face. The  Great  Falls  of  the  Missouri  begin  three  miles  below  the 
mouth  of  the  Sun  River,  and  descend  450  feet  in  15  miles.  The 
Black-Eagle  Falls,  of  26  feet,  come  first,  with  their  lonely  and 
historic  islet.  Four  miles  below  are  the  Rainbow  Falls,  where 
the  Missouri  plunges  40  feet,  over  a  curving  rim  of  rock  900  feet  long,  with  vast  roaring, 
mist-clouds  and  rainbows.  Just  below  comes  the  Crooked  (or  Horse-Shoe)  Fall,  of  19 
feet ;  and  nearer  Rainbow  Falls  the  vast  crystal  river  of  Giant  Spring  enters  the  Missouri. 
Near  by  are  the  works  of  the  Montana  Smelter  Company.  Six  miles  below  this  point  are  the 
Great  Falls,  where  the  Missouri  plunges  down  87  feet,  vertically  on  one  side,  and  by 
a  series  of  steps  on  the  other, -surrounded  by  cliffs,  ravines  and  red  boulders.  The  roar- 
ing of  this  cataract  is  heard  for  ten  miles,  along  the  grand  grassy  plateau  which  environs  the 
stream.  For  five  miles  below  the  Missouri  is  vexed  with  rapids,  and  then  come  the  stiller 
waters,  which  may  be  navigated  to  Fort  Benton  (35  miles)  and  the  Gulf  of  Mexico, 
over  4,000  miles  distant.  Below  Fort  Benton  the  river  flows  first  over  a  gravelly  bed  and 
then  between  high  and  arid  bluffs,  and  only  light-draught  steamboats  can  pass  after  July. 
There  are  several  steamboats  engaged  in  the  Missouri  commerce,  but  the  freightage  has  fallen 
off  greatly  since  the  railroads  reached  the  valleys.  The  navigation  of  the  Missouri  above  the 
Great  Falls  was  initiated  by  the  Little  PhiZ'm  1883,  and  is  of  value  in  carrying  farm-produce 
to  Great  Falls. 

The  Yellowstone  River  rises  in  the  Yellowstone  National  Park,  in  Wyoming,  and  trav- 
erses the  entire  length  of  Montana,  for  850  miles,  receiving  the  Big-Horn,  Rosebud,  Tongue, 
Powder,  and  other  rivers.  It  is  navigable  to  the  Crow- Agency  landing,  and  even  to  the 
present  site  of  Billings,  by  small  steamboats ;  and  Mackinaw 
boats  may  ascend  100  miles  further.  Since  the  railroad  entered 
the  valley,  in  1881,  steamboat  navigation  has  been  practically 
suspended.  The  first  steamboats  up  the  Yellowstone  were  the 
Alone;  the  Cutler,  in  1869;  and  the  Key  West,  the  latter  ascend- 
ing 245  miles,  to  the  Powder  River.  In  1875  Gen.  Forsythe  took 
the  Josephine  418  miles  up  the  Yellowstone,  to  Huntly,  near 
Billings.  In  1877  24  steamers  plied  on  this  lonely  stream. 
Steamers  have  ascended  the  Big-Horn  to  Fort  Custer.  The 
rivers  abound  in  trout  and  salmon-trout,  grayling,  garfish,  pike, 
suckers  and  catfish. 

Flathead  Lake,  28  by  ten  miles,  is  crossed  by  a  line  of 
green  islands,  and  hemmed  between  tall  cliffs  and  emerald 
meadows,  with  a  village  of  Indian  farmers  at  its  foot,  where 
the  great  river  rushes  out.  Steamboats  navigate  the  lake,  and 
run  up  the  Flathead  River.  Forty  miles  south  is  St. -Ignatius  GATE  OF  THE  MOUNTAINS. 


514 


XING'* S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


Mission,  near  the  beautiful  Two-Sisters  Cascades.  Far  north  of 
Flathead  Lake,  the  trackless  Boundary  Mountains  are  reflected  in 
the  Kintla  and  other  lakes.  There  are  many  beautiful  mountain- 
lakes  in  Deer-Lodge  County,  and  in  the  Tobacco-Root  Range,  and 
elsewhere. 

The  State  abounds  in  scenic  attractions,  including  the  great 
cavern  20  miles  west  of  Dillon,  lined  with  shining  crystals ;  the 
Beaver-Head  Rock  and  Twin  Falls ;  Silver  Springs,  in  the  Ruby 
Valley ;  the  high-walled  Prickly-Pear  and  Hell-Gate  Canons,  and 
many  other  gorges  of  romantic  beauty ;  and  the  secluded  Kalis- 
pel  country.  A  small  segment  of  the  Yellowstone  National  Park 
lies  within  Montana.  The  mineral  springs  of  Montana  are  num-  GREAT  FALLS  OF  MISSOURI  RIVER. 
bered  by  hundreds,  and  some  of  them  have  attained  fame  as  health-resorts.  The  Warm 
Springs  are  40  in  number,  containing  iron,  soda  and  magnesia,  and  with  a  temperature  of 
from  115°  to  170°.  Here  rises  the  wigwam-shaped  Geyser  cone,  with  its  perpetual  smoke 
ascending  like  a  council-fire,  the  vicinity  of  which  became  the  grazing  ground  of  white-tailed 
deer,  and  was  called  by  the  Indians  the  Lodge  of  White-Tailed  Deer,  and  the  whites  called  it 
Deer-Lodge  Valley. 

It  is  a  matter  of  surprise  to  find  in  a  commonwealth  so  re- 
cently rescued  from  the  wilderness  and  the  savage,  one  of  the 
most  perfectly  appointed  and  elegant  health-resorts  in  the  Union, 
visited  each  season  by  thousands  of  wealthy  and  fashionable 
families.  This  is  the  Hotel  Broadwater,  reached  from  Helena 
by  electric  cars,  traversing  the  finest  residence-quarter  of  the  city, 
and  also  by  the  GreatNorthern  Railway.  The  grounds  are  prettily 
laid  out,  and  command  grand  views  of  the  mountains,  whose 
crisp  and  electric  air  flows  in  a  life-giving  current  over  all.  The 
adjacent  Hot  Springs  flow  at  a  temperature  of  1 60°,  and  have 
high  medicinal  virtue,  the  water  being  used  in  a  variety  of  sump- 
tuous baths  in  the  hotel.  The  fine  Moorish  building  of  the 
Natatorium  is  the  largest  bath-house  in  the  world,  with  a  plunge- 
bath  100  by  320  feet  in  area,  the  hot  mineral  water  rushing  into 
WHITE-ROCK  CANON.  ft  over  an  artificial  cascade  of  40  feet,  amid  tropical  flowers  and 

the  sound  of  music.  This  famous  resort  was  the  site  of  a  little  pioneer  road-house.  In  1887, 
it  was  bought,  together  with  all  the  land  and  water  in  the  neighborhood,  by  Col.  C.  A. 
Broadwater,  an  old  Montanian,  who  has  since  spent  over  $500,000  in  transforming  it  to  an 


heated  by  steam  and  lighted 
while  the  surrounding  gar- 
and  near  mountains,  are  of 


unrivalled  health-resort.  The  hotel  is 
by  electricity,  and  sumptuously  furnished ; 
dens  and  ponds,  and  the  views  of  the  far 
wonderful  interest.  The  enterprise  of  Col. 
Broadwater,  conspicuous  in  several  im- 
portant enterprises  of  Helena,  has  raised 
up  at  this  point  a  sanitarium  which  is  des- 
tined to  rival  the  Hot  Springs  of  Arkan- 
sas, in  popularity  and  in  medicinal  benefit  to  the 
suffering. 

The  White-Sulphur  Springs  have  hotels,  cottages 
and  bath-houses.      Puller's  Hot  Springs,  in    Ruby  -_ 
Valley,  are  tinctured  with  sulphur  andiron.     Hun-      HELENA:   HOTEL  BROADWATER  AND  NATATORIUM. 
ter's  Hot  Springs,  and  Lewis  Hot  Springs,  and  the  Boulder,  Pipestone  and  Clancy  Springs, 
are  well-known  health-resorts.     Alhambra  Warm  Springs  are  rich  in  medicinal  virtue.     All 
these  springs  have  hotels  and  cottages  near  them,  for  the  accommodation  of  visitors. 


THE  STATE   OF  MONTANA. 


515 


SILVER-BOW    CA 


The  Climates  of  Montana  are  of  great  variety,  with  a  mean 
annual  temperature  of  from  40°  to  50°,  rapid  and  violent  varia- 
tions, the  possibility  of  frost  in  every  month,  and  yet  a  milder 
general  aspect  than  this  high  latitude  would  indicate.  The  rain- 
fall in  most  of  the  State  is  but  from  ten  to  16  inches  yearly ; 
and  on  the  Plains,  and  along  the  Jefferson,  Madison,  Gallatin  and 
Yellowstone  Rivers  farming  must  be  accompanied  by  irrigation. 
The  rainy  season  extends  from  April  until  midsummer.  In  the 
northwestern  corner  all  is  different.  This  section,  including  Mis- 
soula  and  Deer-Lodge  Counties,  is  on  the  Pacific  slope,  west  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  has  25  inches  of  rain  yearly,  with 
a  mild  temperature  from  the  Chinook  winds.  The  Missoula, 
Bitter-Root,  Kootenai  and  Flathead  Valleys  can  be  cultivated 
without  irrigation,  and  the  mountains  and  glens  are  covered  with 
valuable  forests  of  large  pines,  firs  and  cedars.  The  mean  annual 
temperature  of  Fort  Benton  is  4°  warmer  than  that  of  Chicago. 
Helena  has  the  unusual  number  of  294  fair  days  in  each  year.  The  temperature  of  the 
Bitter- Root  Valley  is  the  same  as  that  of  Philadelphia.  Deer  Lodge  is  on  the  latitude  of 
Venice ;  the  northern  frontier  on  that  of  Paris.  The  snow-falls  of  Wyoming  and  Colorado 
exceed  that  of  Montana,  whose  altitude  is  less  than  theirs.  The  Chinook  winds,  from  the 
great  warm  current  of  Japan,  are  a  remarkable  feature  of  the  Montana  winters,  bringing  a 
soft  spring  temperature,  melting  the  snows  like  a  furnace- 
blast,  and  extending  their  balmy  influences  for  300  miles 
east  of  the  Divide.  The  northwest  winds  that  occasionally 
sweep  down  from  the  Canadian  Rocky  Mountains  are  bitterly 
cold,  but  endurable  on  account  of  their  dryness. 

Among  the  animals  here  found  are  mule  deer,  or  black- 
tailed  deer,  elk,  moose,  antelope,  beaver,  mountain  sheep  and 
Rocky- Mountain  goats,  grizzly  and  black  bears,  mountain 
lions,  wild  cats,  lynxes  and  gray  wolves.  In  1870  8,000,000 
buffaloes  roamed  the  Western  Plains.  In  1880  millions  of 
buffalo  were  wantonly  slaughtered  in  this  region,  and  in  1884  the  last  great  herd  of  buffalo, 
numbering  75,000  head,  wintered  in  the  Bad  Lands,'  and  was  well-nigh  exterminated  by  red 
and  white  hunters.  It  may  be  doubted  if  there  is  now  even  a  small  herd  left  in  the  State. 
Agriculture  has  not  yet  reached  a  high  development.  Wheat  of  a  superior  grade,  oats 
and  corn,  are  raised  in  the  valleys,  and  small  quantities  of  vegetables  and  fruits.  The  stock- 
raising  interest  has  assumed  great  prominence  in  Montana,  whose  vast  plains  afford  pas- 
turage for  millions  of  domestic  animals,  needing  little  shelter  or  feeding  in  winter.  The 
occasional  severe  cold  and  deep  snows  have  entailed  heavy  losses  upon  the  cattle-men,  but 
improved  methods  are  averting  much  of  this  destruction.  The  State  contains  1,500,000  head 
of  cattle,  200,000  horses,  and  1,300,000  sheep.  The  latter  produce  yearly  10,000,000  pounds 
of  wool,  and  $2,000,000  worth  of  mutton.  The  flocks  run  on 
open  ranges,  guarded  by  shepherds  and  dogs,  finding  bunch -grass 
enough  for  food  in  winter,  except  during  the  severest  weather, 
when  they  are  folded  and  fed  on  hay.  There  are  a  number  of 
large  horse-ranches,  also,  where  Kentucky  trotting  stallions 
and  English  and  Norman  draft  stallions  are  used  for  breed- 
ing with  native  mares.  Thousands  of  two-year-old  steers 
from  Texas  and  New  Mexico  are  bought  by  the  Montana 
stockmen,  and  kept  on  the  ranges  for  two  years,  and  then 
sold  for  beef.  They  attain  a  much  greater  weight  in  Mon- 
AWAY  OFFICE.  tana  than  they  ever  can  on  the  southwestern  plains.  Over 


THE    HIGH    SCHOOL. 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE   UNITED   STATES. 


MINING   SCENE 
IN    MONTANA. 


100,000  head  are  sent  eastward  yearly,  besides  the  great  num- 
ber devoted  to  home-consumption.  The  local  production  of  hay 
amounts  to  240,000  tons,  and  enables  the  herders  to  winter-feed 
their  cattle,  when  necessary.  The  cow-punchers  of  the  plains 
are  a  large  body  of  active  and  fearless  young  men,  for  a  long 
time  a  characteristic  feature  of  Western  civilization. 

Mining  is  the  foremost  industry  of  Montana,  which  has 
already  added  $400,000,000  to  the  Nation's  wealth  from  this 
resource.  Nearly  one  third  of  the  gold,  silver,  copper  and  lead 
mined  in  the  United  States  comes  from  Montana,  which  surpasses  in  its  product  Colorado, 
California  and  Nevada  alike.  A  small  quantity  of  gold  was  found  in  the  Deer-Lodge  Val- 
ley in  1852,  and  richer  deposits  were  discovered  on  Little  Prickly-Pear  Creek,  in  1861,  and 
thence  the  country  became  settled,  miners  pouring  in  from  all  parts  of  the  world.  During 
ten  years  $135,000,000  in  gold  were  taken  out ;  but  little  was  done  in  mining  until  after  1860, 
when  Hauser,  Bozeman,  the  Stuarts,  and  others  developed  the  lodes  of  southwestern  Mon- 
tana. Bannock  began  to  produce  in  1862.  The  Alder-Gulch  (Virginia  City)  district  was 
opened  in  1863,  and  has  yielded  $50,000,000.  Last-Chance  Gulch  (Helena),  opened  in 
1864,  has  produced  $15,000,000.  Quartz-mining  was  begun  after  1870,  and  now  vast  and 
costly  plants,  with  the  most  efficient  machinery,  are  perpetually  at  work.  The  smelters  at 
Helena,  Great  Falls  and  Castle  alone  cost  $  10,  ooo,  ooo.  In  1 888  Montana  produced  $4, 2  50,  - 
ooo  in  gold,  $19,500,000  in  silver,  $13,685,000  in  copper,  and  $1,050,000  in  lead.  The 
Butte  mines  alone  produced  $23,000,000  in  1888,  from  their  remarkable  series  of  ore  chan- 
nels, five  miles  long  and  from  ten  to  100  feet  wide,  and  of  un- 
known depth.  The  great  corporations  at  work  here  make 
enormous  and  unreported  profits,  and  have  some  of  the  most 
costly  and  efficient  plants  in  the  world.  The  Granite-Mountain 
mine  has  produced  $12,000,000  since  1880.  Eight  hundred 
men  are  employed  here.  The  Drum-Lummon  mine,  at  Marys- 
ville,  has  sent  out  upwards  of  $6,000,000.  Immense  deposits 
of  copper  occur  at  Butte,  Copperopolis,  and  other  points,  the 

ore  yielding  from  20  to   50  per  cent,  of  metal.      Butte  and  Anaconda  have  sent  out  120,- 
000,000  pounds  in  a  year,  their  product  being  one  fourth  of  the  world's  supply. 

Coal-measures  underlie  60,000  square  miles,  along  the  Missouri  and  Yellowstone.  There 
is  much  poor  lignite ;  but  the  mines  near  Livingston  and  Bozeman  produce  a  valuable  coking 
coal,  and  large  deposits  occur  at  other  points.  The  coal-fields  east  and  south  from  Sand 
Coulee  cover  360  square  miles,  along  the  Belt  Mountains,  14  miles  from  Great  Falls; 
and  send  out  their  product  over  a  branch  railway,  supplying  the  Montana  Central  and 
Great  Northern  Railways.  One  thousand  tons  are  mined  daily,  by  400  men,  from  veins 
varying  in  thickness  from  six  to  20  feet.  It  is  a  valuable  steam  coal,  and  much  of  it  cokes 
well.  Large  deposits  of  black-band  iron-ore  are  found  in  the  Belt  Range,  near  Great  Falls, 

. and  bog  and  magnetic  ores  occur  elsewhere.     The  mountains  yield 

A^.  inexhaustible  supplies  of  pale  pink  porphyry,  gray  granite,  cream- 

colored  sandstone,  white  and  tinted  marbles, 
limestone  and  fire-clay  ;  and  plumbago  and 
quicksilver,  zinc  and  other  minerals  have 
been  found. 

The  Government  includes  the  usual 
executive  officers,  elected  by  the  people ; 
and  a  legislature  of  16  senators  and  55 
representatives.  The  Supreme  Court  has 

[jWC1A^fe1tfc"""^"^-55PW«'''      three  justices.     The  State  Militia  consists  of 
feSte^x-  ^firerv!          a  regiment  of  seven  companies  of  infantry, 

DAIRY    FARM   IN    MONTANA.  ° 


CATTLE    IN    MONTANA. 


THE   STATE   OF  MONTANA. 


5'7 


DEER  LODGE  :  THE  COLLEGE  OF  MONTANA. 

opened  at  Deer  Lodge,  in  1883,  anc^ 


and  also  two  companies  of  cavalry.  Convicts  are 
confined  in  idleness  in  the  United-States  Peniten- 
tiary at  Deer  Lodge,  the  State  paying  for  them. 
The  Insane  Asylum  is  at  Warm  Springs. 

Education  has  been  from  the  first  one  of  the 
chief  interests  of  the  community,  and  wise  laws 
have  fostered  and  guarded  its  growth,  although 
under  the  great  disadvantages  of  a  widely  scat- 
tered population.  The  College  of  Montana  was 


buildings,  Trask  Hall  and  the  North  and  South  Dor- 
mitories, overlook  the  valley  and  its  mountain-walls.  It  is  a  co-educational  and  Christian 
school,  with  32  students  in  the  college  and  the  school  of  mines,  80  in  the  academy,  and  38 
in  other  departments.  Montana  University  is  a  new  Methodist  institution,  at  Helena,  and 
a  part  of  its  noble  projected  building  has  been  erected  and  occupied. 

Helena  has  the  Law  and  Free  Libraries,  and  the  valuable  collections  of  the  Montana  His- 
torical Society,  besides  several  large  private  entrances. 

The  first  newspaper  was  the  Montana  Post,  started  at  Virginia  City  in  1864,  and  the 
Helena  Herald  began  its  issues  in  1866.  The  Independent  started  at  Deer  Lodge  in  1867, 
and  moved  to  Helena  in  1874. 

Religion  entered  Montana  with  the  Jesuit  priests,  who  were  entreated  by  the  Flatheads 
to  come  hither,  nearly  60  years  ago.  The  cathedral,  hospital,  asylum  and  academy  of 
this  church  are  at  Helena  ;  and  more  than  a  score  of  churches  lift  their  crosses  over  other 
cities.  Episcopal  services  were  held  at  Virginia  •  /t., 

City  in  1865,  and  the  State  now  forms  a  mis- 
sionary diocese,  with  25  parishes  and  nearly 
I,OOO  communicants.  The  Presbytery  of  Mon- 
tana arose  in  1872,  and  contains  several  churches. 
Methodist  services  were  first  held  in  1863,  at 

Virginia  City,  and  the   denomination  now  has  __ 

more   than  a  score  of  societies.      The  Baptists  HELENA:  ST.  -JOHN'S  HOSPITAL. 

and  other  denominations  are  well  represented.     The  old-time  frontier  gibe  that  "  west  of 
Bismarck  there  is  no  Sunday,  and  west  of  Miles  City  there  is  no  God,"  is  heard  no  more. 

National  Works.  —  The  chief  of  the  garrisoned  defences  of  Montana  is  Fort  Assini- 
boine,  near  Milk  River  and  the  Bear-Paw  Mountains,  and  65  miles  northeast  of  Fort 
Benton.  It  is  a  nine-company  fort,  one  of  the  most  commodious  in  the  West,  built  in  1879, 
to  repress  the  forays  of  the  Sioux  exiled  from  Assiniboia,  and  to  hold  in  check  the  Piegans, 
Gros  Ventres  and  Assiniboines.  It  has  garrison-schools,  chapel,  theatre,  gymnasium,  read- 
ing-room and  gardens.  Fort  Keogh,  on  the  Yellowstone,  is  a  nine-company  fort,  erected  by 
Gen.  Miles,  in  1877,  to  hold  the  Sioux  in  check.  Fort  Custer,  with  a  garrison  of  seven 
companies,  was  built  in  1877,  near  the  scene  of  the  Custer  massacre.  Fort  Shaw,  founded 
in  1867,  to  protect  the  Helena-Benton  road  from  incursions  of  the  Northern  Indians,  is  on 
the  Sun  River,  and  contains  four  companies.  Fort  Maginnis,  with  two  companies,  was  es- 
tablished in  the  Judith  Basin,  in  1880.  Camp  Poplar-River,  with  two  companies,  dates  from 

1882,  and  protects  the  Fort-Peck  Agency,  on  the 
Missouri.  Fort  Missoula,  on  the  St.  Mary's,  is 
held  by  four  companies.  About  1,  600  soldiers 
make  up  the  Montana  garrisons.  Many  other 
border  fortresses  were  erected  and  defended  by 
the  National  and  Territorial  troops  and  the  fur- 
companies,  and  afterwards  abandoned,  and  de- 
stroyed by  the  Indians,  leaving  hardly  a  trace  of 

HELENA  1     MONTANA    UNIVERSITY.  their 


5'* 


HANDBOOK'  OF    THE    UNITED   STATES. 


The  Flathead  Agency  has  charge  of 
i, ocx)  Pend'Oreilles,  industrious  and  com- 
fortable farmers  in  the  Mission  Val- 
ley ;  500  Flatheads,  including  the  Bitter- 
Root  clan,  recently  placed  on  the  reserva- 
tion ;  62  Lower  Kalispels,  moved  hither 
from  Idaho ;  and  425  Kootenais,  "inveter- 
FORT  ASSINIBOINE.  ate  ioafers  and  gamblers. "  The  agency  is 

in  'the  pleasant  and  mountain-girt  Jocko  Valley,  30  by  ten  miles  in  area,   and  the  reserva- 
tion extends  for  60  miles,  covering  1,500,000  acres.     The  Flatheads  are  an  inoffensive  and 
industrious  tribe,  whose  boast  is  that  they  never  killed  a  white  man.     The  Pend'Oreilles 
and  Flathead  (or  Selish)  tribes  are  of  the  same  race  and  language.      They  have  received 
religious  and  other  instruction  from  the  Jesuit  schools  and  churches,  at  St. -Mary's  Mission, 
founded  by  Father  DeSmet,  under  the  Bitter-Root  Mountains,  and  St. -Ignatius'  Mission, 
near  the  red  cliffs  that  enwall  the  Jocko  Valley.     The  Italian  priests  stationed  here  for  half 
a  century  published  a  dictionary  of  Kalispel- English  and  English-Kalispel,  from  the  printing- 
house  at  the  Mission.     The  Blackfeet,   Bloods  and  Piegans  have  a  reservation  45  miles 
square,  northeast  of  Flathead  Lake,  governed  by  an  agent  and  a  band  of  efficient  Indian 
police.    They  number  1, 800  persons.    The  Crow  Indians  number  2,300,  occupying  a  reserva- 
tion in  southern  Montana,  with  their  agency  near  Custer's  battle-field.      Since  Gen.  Ruger 
defeated  and  slew  their  chief,  Sword  Bearer,  in  1887,  the  tribe  has  been  settling  into  farmers 
and  freighters.     The  children  are  taught  in  agency,  Jesuit  and  Unitarian  schools.     The 
Northern  Cheyennes  have  their  reservation 
and  agency  contiguous  to  and  east  of  the  Crow 
country,  among  ranges  of  gloomy  mountains.      -~S/7.;. "i^ ^ V: ; ; -:->'~  < 
•  There  are  900  people  in  this  tribe,  placed 
here  in  1881,  by  Gen.  Miles,  as  prisoners  of 
war.     The  reservation  of  840,000  acres  be- 
tween the  Little  Rocky  Mountains  and  Milk 
River  is  occupied  by  800  Gros  Ventres  and 
1,000  Assiniboines.     The  Fort-Peck  Agency 
has    713  Assiniboines   and   1,200  Yankton 
Sioux.      The  Assiniboines  have  now  5,000  in  the  Prairie  and  Wood  Assiniboines  in  Canada, 
and  5,000  in  the  Upper  and  Red-Stone  clans  of  Montana. 

Chief  Cities. — Helena,  the  legislative,  judicial,  financial,  commercial  and  educational 
capital  and  chief  railway  centre  of  Montana,  is  at  the  eastern  base  of  the  Missouri  range  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains.  It  is  no  longer  the  old  mining-camp,  but  ranks  among  the  bright- 
est and  most  hopeful  and  enterprising  of  Western  cities,  and  claims  to  be  one  of  the  richest 
cities  of  its  size  in  the  world.  Several  of  the  millionaires  of  Montana  have  made  their 
homes  at  Helena,  which  has  in  its  West  End  a  very  pleasant  residence-quarter,  overlooked 
by  the  Rocky  Mountains.  The  city  has  creditable  public  buildings,  and  many  solid,  hand- 
some and  modern  business  blocks,  occupied  by  prosperous  and  substantial  firms.  The  vast 
mining,  stock-raising  and  farming  operations  of  the  Bonanza  State  centre 
their  finances  in  Helena,  which  increases  in  population  with  the 
amazing  development  of  these  properties.  The  city  is  also  rich  in 
fine  schools  and  churches,  and  has  several  good  clubs.  Helena 
stands  in  the  Prickly-Pear  Valley,  in  a  picturesquely  diversified 
situation,  and  amid  interesting  mountain-scenery.  It  is  4,256 
feet  above  the  sea,  and  has  a  dry  and  invigorating  atmosphere, 
with  over  250  days  of  sunshine  in  a  year.  It  is  a  healthy  cli- 
mate, free  from  consumption,  malaria  or  hay-fever.  The  city 
THE  CUSTER  MONUMENT.  has  electric  and  gas  Kg*115'  electric,  horse,  and  dummy  street- 


FORT    BENTON. 


THE  STATE   OF  MONTANA. 


5*9 


cars,  sewerage,  water-works,  public  libraries,  and  a  large  fire-department. 
Helena  lies  1, 100  miles  from  Minneapolis  on  the  east,  and  900  miles  from 
Portland  on  the  west.     At  this  midland  point,  and  in  the  centre  of  rich 
and  progressive   Montana,  stands  this  brave  young  city  of  the 
mountains,  with  a  population  of  about  15,000,  and  having  a  re- 
puted wealth  of  $  I  oo,  ooo,  ooo.     The  welfare  and  advancement  of 
Helena  are  fostered  by  a  Board  of  Trade,  and  also  by  an  active 
Citizens' Committee.    At  Helena  is  the  U.-S.  Assay   Office, 
and  Broadwater's  half-million-dollar  hotel  and  natatorium. 

Butte  City  is  a  smoky,  busy  and  nervous  mining  camp 
of  10,000  people,  the  seat  of  the  great  Anaconda  Mine,  and 
BUTTE  :  COURT-HOUSE.  other  gold,  silver  and  copper  properties,  with  an  output  of 

$23,000,000  a  year.  Cable  cars,  zigzag  railways,  electric  lights,  tall  iron  chimneys  and 
hundreds  of  saloons  help  to  make  up  the  largest  mining-camp  in  America.  Twenty-eight 
miles  west,  at  Anaconda  (founded  in  1883),  is  the  largest  smelter  in  the  world,  working 
night  and  day  on  the  ores  from  the  Anaconda  Mine.  Great  Falls  has  grown  within  five  years 
to  an  important  railway  and  manufacturing  town  of  5,000  inhabitants,  the  chief  wool-market 
in  the  State,  and  with  the  Boston  &  Montana  Copper-Smelter  and  Refining- Works  and  the 
Great-Falls  Silver-Lead  Smelter.  Fort  Benton,  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Missouri, 
is  still  the  centre  of  the  fur-trade,  and  has  grown  to  be  a  city  of  several  thousand  people. 
Virginia  City  is  near  the  Madison  River  and  at  the 
head  of  the  famous  Alder  Gulch.  Bozeman  _-.. 
nestles  at  the  head  of  the  Gallatin  Valley, 
surrounded  by  the  noble  peaks  of  the  Rocky 
and  Belt  Mountains,  and  in  a  region  of  rich 
farms  and  mines.  Miles  City  and  Glendive 
are  exporting  points  for  the  lower  Yellow-  GLENDIVE. 

stone  cattlemen.      Missoula  flourishes  in  mining,  lumbering  and  farming,  and  it  is  the  third 
city  in  the  State. 

The  Railroads  of  Montana  had  twelve  miles  of  track  in  1880.  They  now  operate 
above  1 , 800  miles.  The  Utah  &  Northern  Railroad,  from  Ogden  to  Butte,  Helena  and  Gar- 
rison, 584  miles,  entered  Montana  in  1880  by  way  of  Beaver  Canon.  It  pertains  to  the  Union 
Pacific  system.  The  Northern  Pacific  traverses  the  State  from  east  to  northwest,  and  throws 
off  many  branches,  its  lines  within  Montana  aggregating  above  1,000  miles.  The  Bozeman 
Tunnel,  3,600  feet  long,  and  the  Mullan  Tunnel,  3,850  feet  long,  were  both  opened  in  1883, 


BUTTE  CITY,    THE   GREA' 


the  same  year  in  which  Henry  Villard  drove  the  famous  golden  spike,  completing  the  trans- 
continental line  of  the  Northern  Pacific,  between  Garrison  and  Gold  Creek.  The  Great 
Northern  Railway  follows  the  Missouri  and  Milk  Rivers  from  the  eastern  border  of  Montana 


520 


KTNG^S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE    UNITED   STA7ES. 


clear  across  the 
State,  entering 
Idaho  over  the 
Marias  Pass.  A 
branch  diverges 
from  Fort  Assi- 
niboine  to  Great 
Falls  and  Hel- 
ena ;  and  minor 
lines  connect 

HELENA,    THE   CAPITAL   OF    MONTANA.  .. 

Great  Falls  with 

Sand  Coulee  and  Niehart.  The  Great  Northern  Railway,  from  Minot  westward  to  Great 
Falls,  a  distance  of  600  miles,  was  built  in  six  months,  or  at  the  rate  of  over  100  miles  a 
month.  The  Montana  Union  line  connects  Butte,  Silver  Bow  and  Garrison  (52  miles). 
The  Great.  Falls  &  Canada  Railway  connects  Great  Falls  with  Lethbridge,  in  the  Province 
of  Alberta,  and  Dunmore,  in  Assiniboia,  on  the  Canadian  Pacific  line.  There  are  many 
miles  of  railroad  under  construction  in  all  parts  of  the  State. 

Finance. — The  annual  product  of  Montana  is  over  $60,000,000  (one  half  in  metal,  one 
third  in  live-stock,  one  sixth  in  farm-products  and  lumber),  or  nearly  $400  for  each  inhabi- 
tant, man,  woman  and  child.  It  is  claimed  that  no  other  country  in  the  world  can  show  an 
equal  product  for  its  population.  Much  of  the  steady  advance  in  prosperity  is  due  to  the 
conspicuous  financial  ability  of  some  of  the  pioneers,  who 
founded  institutions  of  enduring  merit.  The  First  National 
Bank  of  Helena  was  organized  in  1866,  with  a  capital  of  $100,- 
ooo,  the  first  National  bank  in  Montana,  and  the  United- States 
•depository.  This  pioneer  institution  met  with  great  prosperity, 
and  increased  its  capital  from  time  to  time,  until  it  became  the 
strongest  financial  corporation  in  the  far  Northwest,  with  re- 
sources of  nearly  $5,000,000.  The  capital  is  $500,000,  with  a 
surplus  of  $100,000,  and  undivided  profits  of  $600,000,  after 
paying  dividends  amounting  to  $272,000.  In  1887  it  com- 
pleted and  occupied  a  handsome  and  convenient  three-story 
building  of  granite  and  brownstone,  on  the  corner  of  Grand 
and  Main  Streets.  The  president  of  the  bank  from  its  foun- 
dation has  been  the  Hon.  Samuel  T.  Hauser,  who  entered 
Montana  as  a  pioneer  in  1862,  and  served  a  term  as  Governor  of  the  Territory,  under 
appointment  from  President  Cleveland. 

"  Montana,  mountainous  or  full  of  mountains,  is  a  name  no  less  beautiful  than  significant. 
From  the  summit  of  its  loftiest  peak  —  Mount  Hayden  —  maybe  seen  within  a  day's  ride  of 
each  other,  the  sources  of  the  three  great  arteries  of  the  territory  owned  by  the  United 
States  —  the  Missouri,  the  Colorado,  and  the  Columbia.  *  *  *  Could  we  stand  on  the 
summit  of  Mount  Hayden,  we  should  see  at  first  nothing  but  a  chaos  of  mountains,  whose 
confused  features  are  softened  by  vast  undulating  masses  of  forest ;  then  would  come  out 

of  the  chaos  stretches  of  grassy  plains,  a  glint 
of  a  lake  here  and  there,  dark  canons  made 
by  the  many  streams  converging  to  form  the 
monarch  river,  rocky  pinnacles  shooting  up  out 
of  interminable  forests,  and  rising  above  all,  a 
silvery  ridge  of  eternal  snow,  which  imparts 
to  the  range  its  earliest  name  of  Shining  Moun- 
tains."— H.  H.  BANCROFT'S  History  of  Wash- 
ington, Idaho,  and  Montana. 


HELENA  :    FIRST    NATIONAL    BANK 


STATISTICS. 

Settled  at 

Settled  in 

Founded  by    ... 

Admitted  as  a  State, 

Population  in  1800, 

In  1870,    .... 

In  1880,    .... 

White,      .     .     . 

Colored,   .     .     . 

American-born, 

Foreign-born,   . 

Males,      .    .     . 

Females 203,161 

In  1890  (U.S.  Census),        1,01" 

Population  to  the  square  mile,       5.9 

Voting  Population,     .     .    .      129,042 

Vote  for  Harrison  (1888),       108,425 

Vote  for  Cleveland  (1888),       80,552 

Net  State  Debt,      ....      None. 

Assessed  Valuation  of 

Property  (1800),    .  $185,000,000 

Area  (square  miles),  .  .  77,510 
U.  S.  Representatives  (in  1893),  6 
Militia  (disciplined), 


Counties, 
Post-offices,  .  . 
Railroads  (miles), 
Vessels,  ... 
Tonnage, 


1,344 
91 

1,127 

5.295 
19 

2,687 


HISTORY. 

Coronado's  Spanish  army 

probably  reached  the  Platte 

Valley  in  1541.     The   abor- 
iginal inhabitants  were   the 

Pawnees,  between  the  Platte 

and  the  Republican  ;  the  Mis- 

souris   and   Otoes,    south  of 

the    lower    Platte;     the 

Omahas,  near  the  mouth  of 

the  Niobrara ;  and  the  Sioux, 

in  the  northwest.  These  tribes  were  continually  at  war 
with  each  other,  and  many  a  merciless  raid  of  Missouris 
swept  the  Omaha  villages,  and  received  retaliation  from 
the  warriors  of  the  Niobrara ;  while  the  Sioux,  with  pitiless 
impartiality,  slaughtered  all  their  neighbors,  and  especially 
the  Pawnee  horsemen.  In  1832  the  Pawnees  defeated  the 
Sioux,  after  a  battle  waged  by  16,000  warriors  for  three 
days.  There  were  2,300  Sioux  slain,  and  2,000  Pawnees ; 
and  after  the  conflict,  the  victors  burned  700  of  their  cap- 
tives alive. 

Nebraska  was  a  part  of  French  Louisiana,  and  came  to 
the  United  States  by  Jefferson's  purchase.  It  belonged  to 
the  District  of  Louisiana.  (1804) ;  then  to  the  Territory  of 
Louisiana  (1805)  ;  then  to  the  Indian  Country  (1834)  ;  and 
then  to  Nebraska  Territory  (1854),  which  also  included 
Montana,  eastern  Wyoming,  western  Dakota,  and  part  of 
Colorado.  From  this  domain  eastern  Colorado  was  taken 
in  1 86 1  ;  and  Montana  and  western  Dakota,  and  part  of 
Wyoming,  in  1863. 

In  1805  Manuel  Lisa  founded,  at  Bellevue,  a  trading- 
post  for  commerce  with  the  Indians ;  and  the  American 
Fur  Company,  in  1810,  established  another  little  fort  at  the 
same  place.  Their  official,  Col.  Peter  A.  Sarpy,  located  at 
Bellevue  in  1824,  and  became  the  first  permanent  white 
settler  in  Nebraska.  Old  Fort  Kearney  was  established  at  Nebraska  City  in  1847,  and  new 
Fort  Kearney  (on  the  Platte  River)  in  1848,  for  the  protection  of  the  Oregon  Trail.  The 
Mormon  exodus  of  1847,  and  the  great  overland  migrations,  started  by  the  discovery  of  gold 


Manufactures  (yearly),    .  $12,627,336 

Operatives, 4,793 

Yearly  Waees,     .     .     .    $1,743,3" 

Farm  Land  (in  acres),     .       9,944,826 

Farm-Land  Values,       $105,932,541 

Farm  Products  (yearly), $37, 708,914 

Public  Schools,  Average 

Daily  Attendance,  .     .     .     159,692 

Newspapers, 610 

Latitude 40  °  to  43°  N- 

Longitude,  .  .  .  95°23'  to  104"  W. 
Temperature,  .  .  .  — 35°  to  107° 
Mean  Temperature  (Omaha),  49° 


TEN  CHIEF  CITIES  AND  THEIR   POP- 
ULATIONS (CENSUS  OF  1890). 


Omaha,  .  .  . 
Lincoln,  .  .  . 
Beatrice,  .  . 
Hastings,  .  . 
Nebraska  City, 
Plattsmouth,  . 
Kearney, 
South  Omaha, 
Grand  Island,  . 
Fremont,  .  . 


140,452 
55,154 
13,836 

11,49-4 
8,392 
8,074 
8,062 
7.536 
6,747 


522  KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 

in  California,  called  attention  to  the  Platte  country.  In 
1850  the  Lone-Tree  Ferry  was  established,  to  carry  emi- 
grants across  the  Missouri ;  and  the  next  year  the  ferry- 
man staked  off  the  first  claim  at  Omaha,  the  town  being 
laid  out  in  1854.  After  the  collapse  of  the  Pike's-Peak 
gold  excitement,  in  1859,  thousands  of  weary  adventurers 
moved  eastward  to  Nebraska,  and  opened  farms.  The 
pioneers  wrongly  rated  the  high  prairies  as  sterile,  and 

located  along  the  river  bottoms,  and  it  was  difficult  to  get 
LINCOLN:  THE  FIRST  HOUSE.  ,  •,  IJTO^  i_-ij^' 

them  out  on  the  uplands.     In  1863-4  the  railroads  began 

to  sell  their  vast  grants,  and  new  tides  of  immigration  poured  in.  Out  of  a  population  of 
30,000,  Nebraska  gave  3,307  soldiers  to  the  Union.  The  First  Nebraska  Regiment  fought 
for  five  years  in  the  Gulf  States,  Missouri  and  Nebraska.  The  Second  Nebraska  Cavalry 
hunted  the  Sioux  in  Nebraska  and  Dakota.  Curtiss'  Horse,  including  four  companies,  be- 
longed to  the  Southwestern  Army.  Companies  of  Pawnee  and  Omaha  Indians,  and  of  Ter- 
ritorial militia,  were  sent  into  the  field  during  the  Sioux  and  Cheyenne  invasion  of  Nebraska, 
in  1864.  During  the  early  days  the  settlers  suffered  greatly  from  the  forays  of  the  Indians, 
who  killed  many  of  the  pioneers,  and  ravaged  the  remoter  valleys.  Lincoln  became  the 
capital  in  1867,  succeeding  Omaha  ;  and  the  new  Constitution  went  into  operation  in  1875. 
Recent  legislation  points  toward  abolishing  alien  ownership  of  land,  and  restricting  land- 
owner-ship to  that  in  actual  use  and  occupation. 

The  Name,  Nebraska,  is  an  Indian  word,  meaning  "Shallow  Water,"  and  referring 
to  the  Platte,  which  Artemus  Ward  said  would  be  ' '  considerable  of  a  river  if  it  were  set  up 
edgewise."  It  is  sometimes  called  THE  ANTELOPE  STATE,  from  an  old-time  dweller  on 
the  plains  ;  and  also  The  Blackwater  State,  from  its  streams,  darkened  by  the  rich  black  soil. 
The  Arms  of  the  State  show  a  blacksmith  at  work,  between  a  wheat-sheaf  and  a  tree, 
with  a  log-cabin  and  a  wheat-field,  and  a  river  bearing  a  steamboat,  and  a  railroad  train  be- 
yond. The  motto  is  :  EQUALITY  BEFORE  THE  LAW.  Congress  refused  to  accept  the  first 
Constitution  of  Nebraska,  giving  the  suffrage  to  white  citizens  only,  and  ordered  that  there 
should  "be  no  denial  of  the  elective  franchise  *  *  *  *  by  reason  of  race  or  color." 
The  Legislature  struck  out  the  word  "white,"  the  first  precedent  of  the  kind. 

The  Governors  of  Nebraska  have  been:  Territorial:  Francis  Burt,  1854;  Thomas 
B.  Cuming  (acting),  1854-5;  Mark  W.  Izard,  1855-8;  William  A.  Richardson,  1858; 
Samuel  W.  Black,  1858-61;  Alvin  Saunders,  1861-7.  State:  David  Butler,  1867-71; 
William  H.  James,  1871-3;  R.  W.  Furnas,  1873-5;  Silas  Garber,  1875-9;  Albinus  Nance, 
1879-83;  J.  W.  Dawes,  1883-7;  John  M-  Thayer,  1887-92;  and  James  E.  Boyd,  1892. 

Descriptive. — There  are  no  mountains  in  the  State,  but  the  undulating  prairies  and 
rich  alluvial  valleys  and  table-lands  form  a  gradual  ascent  from  the  mouth  of  the  Nemaha,  in 
the  southeast,  860  feet  above  the  sea,  to  Scott's  Bluffs,  in  the  far  west,  6,000  feet  above  the 
sea.  Chappell  is  5, 702  feet  above  the  sea-level.  The  surface  may  be  divided  into  50  per 
cent,  of  rolling  prairie,  20  of  the  level  table-land  of  the  west,  10  of  bluffs,  and  20  of  valley 
and  bottom-land.  The  streams  flow  amid  strips  of  woodland,  often  bounded  by  rounded 

bluffs,  and  then  by  terraces  rising  to  the 
uplands.  Along  the  Missouri  the  country 
is  broken  and  rolling,  and  in  the  west 
there  are  deep  canons  ;  but  over  the  rest 
of  the  State  sweep  the  gentle  swells  of 
the  prairies,  motionless  waves  of  pale 

^~~^^===^^  ^^^"^  -311    green  land,    meadow-like  in    their   rich 
verdure,   and  devoid  of   shrubbery   and 

stones.     The  high  uplands  are  indented 

TORM  LAKE.  with  basin-like  hollows,  once  the  beds  of 


523 


KEARNEY  ;    CITY    HALL 


THE  STATE   OF  NEBRASKA. 

ponds,  and  some  of  them  still  occupied  by  bright  waters.     In  the  west 
the  green  waves  of  prairie  and  bluff  sink  down  into  a  dead  level  of  table- 
land.    The  uplands  are  overlaid  with  deep  lacustrine  deposits,  made  up 
of  finely  comminuted  silicious  matter,  abounding  in 
lime  and  iron,  and  forming  one  of  the  richest  soils  for 
tillage  in  the  world.   Vast  natural  pastures  cover  these 
uplands ;  and  here,  in  earlier  days,  myriads  of  cattle 
from  the  farther  West  were  fattened,  before  their  de- 
parture for  the  eastern  shambles,  or  the  great  packing- 
houses at  Omaha. 

The  Missouri  River,  crooked  and  shifting,  forms 
the  eastern  boundary  for  5°°  miles,  from  1,000  to 
3,000  feet  wide,  and  traversed  above  Omaha  by  half  a 
dozen  Government  steamboats  a  year,  bearing  military  supplies  to  the  remote  Northwestern 
posts.  Its  navigation  extends  2,000  miles  above  Omaha.  The  other  rivers  contain  many 
rapids,  valuable  for  water-power,  after  leaving  their  upper  courses,  and  entering  the  region 
of  bluffs.  The  Platte  is  a  broad  and  shallow  stream,  fordable  at  many  points,  flowing 
around  large  grassy  or  wooded  islands,  and  forming  the  centre  of  a  valley  many  leagues 
wide.  It  rises  amid  the  snows  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  in  the  North  and  South  Forks, 
which  unite  at  North  Platte  ;  and  runs  1,200  miles  eastward  to  the  Missouri.  The  Elkhorn  is 
a  marvellously  crooked  stream,  flowing  300  miles  southeast  to  the  lower  Platte,  a  rapid  river, 
with  rich  bottom-lands.  The  Loup  is  another  swift-flowing  tributary,  250  miles  long,  rising 

in  the  lakelets  near  the  sand-hills.     The  Republican 

River,  in  southern  Nebraska,  has  a  rich  valley,  from 
three  to  six  miles  wide,  and  over  200  miles  long,  famous 
for  its  pleasant  pastoral  scenery.  The  rapid  Niobrara 
rises  in  Wyoming,  and  flows  300  miles  east  to  the  Mis- 
souri, with  heavily  wooded  bottoms.  For  180  miles  in 
western  Nebraska  it  roars  through  a  canon,  between 
precipitous  walls  of  rock.  The  State  has  many  other 
rivers,  like  the  Salt,  the  White,  the  Big  Blue,  the  Little 
Blue,  the  Great  Nemaha,  and  the  Keya  Paha.  There 
are  hundreds  of  shallow  and  reedy  lakes  about  the  heads  of  the  Elkhorn,  Pine,  and  Loup, 
thronged  from  March  till  December  with  geese,  ducks,  swans,  cranes,  pelicans,  herons,  and 
other  game-birds,  with  myriads  of  grouse  on  the  hills.  This  region,  very  attractive  to  the 
sportsman,  is  reached  from  Alliance. 

The  great  divide,  in  northern  Nebraska,  rises  from  1,000  feet  high  at  the  Missouri  to 
3, 500  feet  high  in  the  west. 

The  Bad  Lands  of  Dakota  extend  into  northern  Nebraska,  with  their  desolation  of  water- 
chiselled  white  rock  and  clay,  resembling  ruined  cities,  and  full  of  fossil  remains  of  rhinoceri, 
monkeys,  sabre-toothed  tigers,  colossal  turtles,  camel-headed  hogs,  and  other  miocene  mon- 
sters. The  chief  feature  is  the  long  canon  of  the  Niobrara, 
with  hundreds  of  lateral  canons,  in  whose  darkness  the 
streams  rush  and  roar  over  rocky  channels.  In  the  north 
are  thousands  of  square  miles  of  conical  and  crater- 
like  sand-hills,  from  25  to  400  feet  high,  some  of  them 
anchored  by  nutritious  grasses,  and  others  changing  *• 
their  form  with  every  gale.  The  Bad  Lands  begin  on 
the  Niobrara,  90  miles  from  its  mouth,  and  run  west 
for  180  miles,  and  where  they  stop  the  sand-hills  begin, 
and  have  a  length  of  150  miles,  and  a  width  of  from 
IO  to  25  miles.  At  Scott's  Bluffs  the  horizontal  strata  OMAHA  :  DOUGLAS-COUNTY  COURT-HOUSE. 


PLATTE   RIVER,    NEAR   SILVER   CREEK. 


524 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE    UNITED   STATES. 


OMAHA  :     Y.    M.    C.    A. 


of  whitish  and  yellowish-white  clays  and  sandstones  have 
been  weathered  into  the  forms  of  domes  and  towers,  castles 
and  churches,  and  many  other  singular  shapes. 

The  woodlands  of  Nebraska  are  inadequate,  but  the 
people  take  great  interest  in  planting  trees,  and  since  the 
prairie-fires  have  ceased,  an  interesting  progress  has  been 
made  in  afforesting  the  State,  fully  700, 000,000  trees  having 
been  planted.  The  cottonwood  is  the  most  abundant  variety, 
and  the  black  walnut  the  most  valuable.  Pines,  cedars, 
maples,  oaks,  elms,  hickories,  lindens,  locusts,  and  willows 
are  also  found.  Wild  plums,  cherries,  mulberries,  and  paw-paws  grow  everywhere,  and 
the  grapes  sometimes  cover  whole  forests  with  their  luxuriant  network  of  vines. 

The  Climate  is  healthy  and  invigorating,  free  from  consumption  and  malarial  diseases, 
and  full  of  tonic  properties.  The  winters  are  brightened  by  many  dry  and  sunny  days  ;  the 
summers  are  refreshed  by  almost  constant  prairie-breezes  and  cool,  calm  nights ;  and  the 
autumnal  season  rests  under  a  soft  blue  haze  and  mellowed  sunshine.  What  has  been  the 
most  objectionable  feature  in  the  climate,  the  prevalence  of  high  winds  at  certain  seasons, 
is  gradually  disappearing  as  the  country  is  settled,  and  what  was  once  an  objection,  receives 
hardly  a  thought.  The  mean  temperature  in  winter  is  20°  ;  in  spring,  47°  ;  in  summer,  72° 
to  76°;  in  autumn,  49°.  About  15  times  during  the  winter  the  thermometer  descends  to 
zero,  aided  by  the  northwest  winds  from  the  Rocky  Mountains,  but  the  air  is  so  dry  that 

the  cold  brings  little  discomfort.  In  the  Missouri 
Valley  40  inches  of  rain  fall  yearly ;  32  inches, 
I  oo  miles  west ;  30  inches,  200  miles  west ;  and  17 
inches  400  miles  west.  The  rainy  season  comes 
in  early  summer,  and  lasts  from  four  to  eight  weeks, 
not  in  continuous  rain,  but  occasional  showers  — 
just  when  it  is  most  needed.  The  increased  rain- 
fall is  not  proved  yet  (see  Greeley's  recent  report 
on  the  climate  of  Nebraska).  It  has  been  popu- 
larly claimed,  and  is  probably  inferred  from  the 
known  extension  of  the  crop-raising  territory  over 
regions  to  the  westward,  which  were  until  recently 
incapable  of  producing  crops.  The  true  explana- 
tion is  probably  that  formerly  the  rain  falling  on  the  unbroken  sod  was  conveyed  over  the 
soil  to  the  watercourses,  and  that  now,  the  sod  being  broken  up,  the  rain  no  longer  is  shed 
as  by  a  roof,  but  is  absorbed  by  the  cultivated  fields  and  retained  as  in  a  sponge.  It  is 
doubtless  a  question  of  saving  and  storing,  rather  than  of  increasing  the  rainfall. 

Farming. — The  value  of  Nebraska's  farm-products,  corn,  wheat,  oats,  rye,  barley, 
flax-seed,  sorghum,  millet,  and  broom-corn,  passes  $60,000,000  a  year.  The  cereal 
crops  increased  I,ooo  per  cent,  between  1870  and  1880,  at  which  time  they  amounted  to 
88,000,000  bushels.  In  1888  the  State  bore  210,000,000  bushels  of  cereals  (valued  at  $50,- 
000,000),  three  fourths  of  which  was  in  corn,  although  four  fifths  of  its  area  is  as  yet  untilled. 
In  1889  the  product  was  270,000,000  bushels.  There 
are  65,000  farms,  and  land  averages  $10  an  acre.  In 
respect  to  fruit,  Nebraska  excels  in  apples,  strawberries, 
cherries,  grapes  and  plums,  with  peaches  south  of  the 
Platte.  There  are  4,000,000  fruit  trees  and  1,300,000 
grapevines.  In  the  eastern  counties  there  are  large  fruit  .^^^inaiai^pi^z^^rar1 


OMAHA  :  DOUGLAS- COUNTY  HOSPITAL. 


canneries. 


Under  the  new  law  extending  encouragement  by  a 
bounty   of  two    cents   a   pound    on   beet-sugar,    large 


LINCOLN  :     WESLEYAN    UNIVERSITY. 


THE  STATE   OF  NEBRASKA. 


factories  have  been  constructed  at  Grand  Island  and  Norfolk,  with  a  joint  capacity  of  from 
600  to  800  tons  of  sugar-beets  a  day.  They  cost  upwards  of  $1,000,000,  being  fully 
equipped  with  the  latest  machinery  from  Germany.  At  Grand  Island  2,000,000  pounds  of 
beet-sugar  was  made  in  1890.  This  is  the  initial  step  taken  to  render  Nebraska  a  great 
sugar-producing  State,  its  soil  being  peculiarly  adapted  to  the  sugar-beet. 

The  prominence  of  Nebraska  as  a  meat-  producing  State  is  due  to  its 

abundant  corn,  and  summer  and  fi*^^J  winter     pasturage,    on     the 

plains  of  the   west.      The  Ne-     .  -^7^  1fi% '^  braska  cattle  command  high 

prices,  and  afford  a  wide  margin    ^a^a^^fU^^^j)  > j' ^,  of   profit.       The   State   has 

4,700,000     head   of    live- 
stock, valued  at  $81,000,000. 


IVERSITY    HALL. 


LINCOLN  I      UNIVERSITY   OF    NEBRASKA. 


NEBRASKA    HALL. 


Dairy  products  have  attained  a  high  value ;  and  creameries  have  become  one  of  the  prin- 
cipal industries,  making  the  finest  butter  in  the  land,  and  increasing  their  product  each  year. 

Much  of  the  great  plateau  has  been  converted  into  stock-farms,  the  cattle  being  held 
under  fence,  or  in  small  "close"  herds  during  the  summer,  and  "hay-fed"  during  the 
winter.  They  are  turned  off  the  grass  as  "feeders,"  and  corn-fed  and  corn-fattened  before 
going  to  market  as  fat  cattle.  The  "feeders  "  are  shipped  to  the  cattle-markets,  Chicago, 
South  Omaha,  and  Kansas  City,  and  are  sold  to  buyers  who  take  them  to  fatten  on  corn, 
and  return  them  to  the  markets  from  four  to  eight  months  later  as  fat  cattle.  The  old 
"  Texas  trail,"  in  Nebraska,  is  abandoned.  It  would  be  impossible  for  a  Texan  herd  to  get 
through  Kansas  into  Nebraska,  or  across  western  Nebraska,  owing  to  the  thick  settlement 
of  the  land. 

The  situation  of  Omaha,  in  the  heart  of  the  corn-producing  belt,  made  it  by  nature  a 
gigantic  live-stock  market,  and  in  1884  a  strong  company  of  capitalists  founded  here  the 
Omaha  Union  Stock-Yards,  which  have  developed  into  one  of  the  chief  elements  in  the 
upbuilding  of  the  city.  The  original  capital  of  $750,000  was  necessarily  increased  to 
$4,000,000;  and  200  acres  of  land  in  South  Omaha  are  now  occupied  by  the  yards,  compe- 
tent to  take  care  of  30,000  animals  at  one  time,  and  traversed  by  many  miles  of  track,  con- 
necting with  the  great  railways  centering  at  Omaha.  The  three  greatest  live-stock  marts 
of  the  world  are  respectively  Chi- 
cago, Kansas  City,  and  Omaha.  In 
1 889  the  receipts  were  500,  ooo  cattle, 
1,120,000  hogs,  160,000  sheep,  and 
7, 500  horses  and  mules ;  and  the 
business  of  1890  reached  almost 
double  these  figures.  Near  the 
Stock-Yards  several  immense  meat- 
packing houses  have  been  estab- 
lished, with  plants  valued  at  $2, 500,  - 
ooo,  and  a  daily  capacity  of  12,000 
hogs,  2, 500  beeves,  and  I, ooo  sheep. 
At  the  Stock- Yards  there  are  hotels, 
banks,  telegraph-offices,  and  all  SOUTH  OMAHA  :  THE  UNION  STOCK-YARDS. 


524 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE    UNITED   STATES. 


OMAHA  :     Y.    M.    C. 


of  whitish  and  yellowish-white  clays  and  sandstones  have 
been  weathered  into  the  forms  of  domes  and  towers,  castles 
and  churches,  and  many  other  singular  shapes. 

The  woodlands  of  Nebraska  are  inadequate,  but  the 
people  take  great  interest  in  planting  trees,  and  since  the 
prairie-fires  have  ceased,  an  interesting  progress  has  been 
made  in  afforesting  the  State,  fully  700, 000,000  trees  having 
been  planted.  The  cottonwood  is  the  most  abundant  variety, 
and  the  black  walnut  the  most  valuable.  Pines,  cedars, 
maples,  oaks,  elms,  hickories,  lindens,  locusts,  and  willows 
are  also  found.  Wild  plums,  cherries,  mulberries,  and  paw-paws  grow  everywhere,  and 
the  grapes  sometimes  cover  whole  forests  with  their  luxuriant  network  of  vines. 

The  Climate  is  healthy  and  invigorating,  free  from  consumption  and  malarial  diseases, 
and  full  of  tonic  properties.  The  winters  are  brightened  by  many  dry  and  sunny  days  ;  the 
summers  are  refreshed  by  almost  constant  prairie-breezes  and  cool,  calm  nights ;  and  the 
autumnal  season  rests  under  a  soft  blue  haze  and  mellowed  sunshine.  What  has  been  the 
most  objectionable  feature  in  the  climate,  the  prevalence  of  high  winds  at  certain  seasons, 
is  gradually  disappearing  as  the  country  is  settled,  and  what  was  once  an  objection,  receives 
hardly  a  thought.  The  mean  temperature  in  winter  is  20°  ;  in  spring,  47°  ;  in  summer,  72° 
to  76°;  in  autumn,  49°.  About  15  times  during  the  winter  the  thermometer  descends  to 
zero,  aided  by  the  northwest  winds  from  the  Rocky  Mountains,  but  the  air  is  so  dry  that 

the  cold  brings  little  discomfort.  In  the  Missouri 
Valley  40  inches  of  rain  fall  yearly  ;  32  inches, 
I oo  miles  west ;  30  inches,  200  miles  west ;  and  17 
inches  400  miles  west.  The  rainy  season  comes 
in  early  summer,  and  lasts  from  four  to  eight  weeks, 
not  in  continuous  rain,  but  occasional  showers  — 
just  when  it  is  most  needed.  The  increased  rain- 
fall is  not  proved  yet  (see  Greeley's  recent  report 
on  the  climate  of  Nebraska).  It  has  been  popu- 
larly claimed,  and  is  probably  inferred  from  the 
known  extension  of  the  crop-raising  territory  over 
regions  to  the  westward,  which  were  until  recently 
incapable  of  producing  crops.  The  true  explana- 
tion is  probably  that  formerly  the  rain  falling  on  the  unbroken  sod  was  conveyed  over  the 
soil  to  the  watercourses,  and  that  now,  the  sod  being  broken  up,  the  rain  no  longer  is  shed 
as  by  a  roof,  but  is  absorbed  by  the  cultivated  fields  and  retained  as  in  a  sponge.  It  is 
doubtless  a  question  of  saving  and  storing,  rather  than  of  increasing  the  rainfall. 

Farming.— The  value  of  Nebraska's  farm-products,  corn,  wheat,  oats,  rye,  barley, 
flax-seed,  sorghum,  millet,  and  broom-corn,  passes  $60,000,000  a  year.  The  cereal 
crops  increased  I,ooo  per  cent,  between  1870  and  1880,  at  which  time  they  amounted  to 
88,000,000  bushels.  In  1888  the  State  bore  210,000,000  bushels  of  cereals  (valued  at  $50,- 
000,000),  three  fourths  of  which  was  in  corn,  although  four  fifths  of  its  area  is  as  yet  untilled. 
In  1889  the  product  was  270,000,000  bushels.  There 
are  65,000  farms,  and  land  averages  $10  an  acre.  In 
respect  to  fruit,  Nebraska  excels  in  apples,  strawberries, 
cherries,  grapes  and  plums,  with  peaches  south  of  the 

Platte.     There  are  4,000,000  fruit  trees  and  1,300,000      J^S^^3^k!itf*^^SS±53^iCTE^ 
grapevines.     In  the  eastern  counties  there  are  large  fruit 
^nneries. 

Under  the  new  law  extending  encouragement  by  a     ij.        '  -  ^'"--^-^i^ 

bounty    of  two    cents    a    pound    on    beet-sugar,    large  LINCOLN  :   WESLEYAN  UNIVERSITY. 


OMAHA  I     DOUGLAS- COUNTY    HOSPITAL. 


THE  STATE   OF  NEBRASKA. 


525 


factories  have  been  constructed  at  Grand  Island  and  Norfolk,  with  a  joint  capacity  of  from 
600  to  800  tons  of  sugar-beets  a  day.  They  cost  upwards  of  $1,000,000,  being  fully 
equipped  with  the  latest  machinery  from  Germany.  At  Grand  Island  2,000,000  pounds  of 
beet-sugar  was  made  in  1890.  This  is  the  initial  step  taken  to  render  Nebraska  a  great 
sugar-producing  State,  its  soil  being  peculiarly  adapted  to  the  sugar-beet. 

The  prominence  of  Nebraska  as  a  meat-  producing  State  is  due  to  its 

abundant  corn,  and  summer  and  J^^Sf  winter     pasturage,    on     the 

plains  of  the   west.      The  Ne-    ^  .s^3^^^^*l  braska  cattle  command  high 

prices,  and  afford  a  wide  margin    ^jg^pJ^HsSS^EHl^J1.^  of   Pront-       Tne   State   has 

4,700,000     head   of    live- 
stock, valued  at  $8 1, ooo, ooo. 


UMVtRSITY    HALL. 


LINCOLN  t     UNIVERSITY    OF    NEBRASKA. 


EBRASKA    HALL. 


Dairy  products  have  attained  a  high  value ;  and  creameries  have  become  one  of  the  prin- 
cipal industries,  making  the  finest  butter  in  the  land,  and  increasing  their  product  each  year. 

Much  of  the  great  plateau  has  been  converted  into  stock-farms,  the  cattle  being  held 
under  fence,  or  in  small  "close"  herds  during  the  summer,  and  "hay-fed"  during  the 
winter.  They  are  turned  off  the  grass  as  "feeders,"  and  corn-fed  and  corn-fattened  before 
going  to  market  as  fat  cattle.  The  "feeders  "  are  shipped  to  the  cattle-markets,  Chicago, 
South  Omaha,  and  Kansas  City,  and  are  sold  to  buyers  who  take  them  to  fatten  on  corn, 
and  return  them  to  the  markets  from  four  to  eight  months  later  as  fat  cattle.  The  old 
"Texas  trail,"  in  Nebraska,  is  abandoned.  It  would  be  impossible  for  a  Texan  herd  to  get 
through  Kansas  into  Nebraska,  or  across  western  Nebraska,  owing  to  the  thick  settlement 
of  the  land. 

The  situation  of  Omaha,  in  the  heart  of  the  corn-producing  belt,  made  it  by  nature  a 
gigantic  live-stock  market,  and  in  1884  a  strong  company  of  capitalists  founded  here  the 
Omaha  Union  Stock-Yards,  which  have  developed  into  one  of  the  chief  elements  in  the 
upbuilding  of  the  city.  The  original  capital  of  $750,000  was  necessarily  increased  to 
$4,000,000;  and  200  acres  of  land  in  South  Omaha  are  now  occupied  by  the  yards,  compe- 
tent to  take  care  of  30,000  animals  at  one  time,  and  traversed  by  many  miles  of  track,  con- 
necting with  the  great  railways  centering  at  Omaha.  The  three  greatest  live-stock  marts 
of  the  world  are  respectively  Chi- 
cago, Kansas  City,  and  Omaha.  In 
1889  the  receipts  were  500,  ooo  cattle, 
1,120,000  hogs,  160,000  sheep,  and 
7, 500  horses  and  mules ;  and  the 
business  of  1890  reached  almost 
double  these  figures.  Near  the 
Stock-Yards  several  immense  meat- 
packing houses  have  been  estab- 
lished, with  plants  valued  at  $2, 500,  - 
ooo,  and  a  daily  capacity  of  12,000 
hogs,  2, 500  beeves,  and  I, ooo  sheep. 
At  the  Stock- Yards  there  are  hotels, 
banks,  telegraph-offices,  and  all  SOUTH  OMAHA  :  THE  UNION  STOCK-YARDS. 


OMAHA  ;     BROWNELL    HALL. 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE    UNITED  STATES. 

facilities  for  the  successful  handling  of  the  immense 
quantities  of  live-stock,  hogs,  beeves,  sheep,  horses 
and  mules,  that  are  incessantly  arriving  at  these  capac- 
ious yards.  There  is  also  a  thorough  Live- Stock  Ex- 
change, which  is  the  rendezvous  of  the  large  army  of 
shippers  and  buyers  of  live-stock. 

Coal  underlies  the  eastern  counties  and  the  Repub- 
lican Valley,  both  lignite  and  bituminous,  and  furnishes 
fuel  for  local  use.  It  occurs  in  thin  seams,  and  hardly 
pays  for  working.  A  four-foot  seam  has  lately  been 
found  at  Hubbell,  at  a  depth  of  120  feet.  There  are  extensive  beds  of  peat  in  the  west. 
The  great  salt  basin  near  Lincoln  covers  a  marsh  of  200  acres,  in  which  rise  numerous  saline 
springs,  whose  waters  test  25°  to  35°  by  the  salometer.  Many  quarries  of  blue  and  white 
carboniferous  and  gray  magnesian  limestone  and  brown  and  red  sandstone,  are  worked  in 
various  parts  of  the  State. 

The  Government  includes  a  governor  and  executive  officers,  elected  every  two  years  ; 
a  legislature,  meeting  every  two  years ;  a  supreme  court  of  three  justices ;  and  district  and 
county  courts.  The  State  House  is  of  Platte-River  limestone,  handsomely  finished  inside, 
and  crowned  by  a  dome  200  feet  high. 

The  National  Guard  has  yearly  encampments.     It  includes  two  regiments  of  infantry, 
a  battery,   and  a  troop  of  cavalry,   wearing  the    United- 
States  uniform. 

The  Soldiers'  and  Sailors'  Home,  opened  in  1888,  on  a 
domain  of  640  acres,  at  Grand  Island,  has  a  large  build- 
ing for  unmarried  veterans,  and  a  series  of  seven  pleasant 
double  cottages  on  five-acre  tracts,  for  men  with  families. 
The  State  Penitentiary  is  a  massive  stone  structure,  located 
at  Lincoln,  in  1869,  and  holding  in  duress  400  convicts. 
The  Industrial  School  for  Juvenile  Offenders  occupies  a 
farm  of  220  acres,  near  Kearney,  where  170  children  are 
busied  in  school,  workshop  and  field,  and  held  under  fam- 
ily discipline  only.  The  Institute  for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb 
was  opened  at  Omaha,  in  1869,  and  has  150  pupils.  The  Institute  for  the  Blind,  at  Nebraska 
City,  has  musical  and  industrial  departments.  There  are  large  insane  asylums  at  Lincoln 
(400  patients)  and  Norfolk,  and  at  Hastings  (for  incurables) ;  and  the  Asylum  for  Feeble- 
Minded  Children  and  Adults  is  near  Beatrice.  The  State  Home  for  the  Friendless,  at  Lin- 
coln, has  1 20  inmates.  The  Industrial  Home,  at  Milford,  has  50  inmates. 

Education. — The  common  schools  are  liberally  endowed,  the  fund  from  land  sales 
amounting  to  $7,000,000,  and  rapidly  increasing.     The  school-buildings  have  cost  above 
5,000,000.      The  average  attendance  is  73  per  cent,  of  the  children  of  school-age.      Many 
nish  text-books  free.      The  proportion    of   illiteracy   is    smaller  than 
State  except  Iowa,  being  but  2. 5  per  cent,  of  the  population  above  ten 
years  of  age. 

The  University  of  Nebraska  opened  its  doors  in  1871,  and 
occupies  an  embowered  park  at  Lincoln.  There  are  474 
students;  15  in  graduate  studies,  159  in  academic,  76  in 
industrial  and  agricultural,  138  in  the  Latin  school,  and 
1 66  in  the  School  of  the  Fine  Arts,  all  of  whom  are 
taught  gratuitously.  They  include  young  men  and 
women.  The  former  compose  a  battalion  of  four  com- 
panies and  three  gun  detachments,  drilled  by  a  regular- 
OMAHA  :  PUMP-HOUSE,  WATER-WORKS.  army  officer.  The  buildings  include  University  Hall ; 


OMAHA  I     TRINITY    CATHEDRAL. 


THE  STATE   OF  NEBRASKA. 


527 


OMAHA  :     UNION    PACIFIC    RAILROAD    BRIDGE. 


Nebraska  Hall,  for  the  Industrial  Col- 
lege; the  Chemical  Laboratory;  and  Grant 
Memorial  Hall,  used  for  the  armory,  drill- 
hall,  and  gymnasium.  These  are  all  large 
brick  buildings.  The  Agricultural  Ex- 
periment Station  Farm  includes  320  acres 
of  rolling  uplands,  with  appropriate  houses 
and  other  buildings.  The  libraries  con- 
tain 12,000  volumes,  and  the  museums 
are  large  and  interesting,  with  collections  of  minerals  and  fossils,  and  a  valuable  herbarium. 
Doane  College,  founded  at  Crete,  in  1872,  with  80  students,  and  Gates  College,  at 
Neligh,  with  18  students,  are  Congregational  schools.  Nebraska  Central  College,  at  Cen- 
tral City,  with  51  students,  and  the  Methodist  Episcopal  College,  at  York,  with  220  stu- 
dents, are  Methodist.  Creighton  College,  at  Omaha,  is  Catholic.  Hastings  College  be- 
longs to  the  Presbyterians.  There  are  Wesleyan  and  Campbellite  universities  near  Lincoln. 
Trinity  Cathedral,  at  Omaha,  is  notable  for  its  beautiful  interior,  memorial  windows, 
chime  of  bells,  and  stone  deanery.  Brownell  Hall,  a  girls'  school,  and  the  Child's  Hos- 
pital, are  also  at  Omaha. 

The  Newspapers  of  Nebraska  include  514  weeklies,  30  dailies,  and  18  monthlies. 
Twelve  of  these  are  in  the  German  language,  and  others  are  in  Danish,  Scandinavian,  Polish, 
and  B  o  h  e  -  w  mian.  Among  them  are  the  Granger,  Bee,  Bugle,  Echo,  Guard,  Motor, 
Lever,  Kal-  p  eidoscope,  Headlight,  Quaver,  Pickings,  Flail,  Rustler,  Vidette,  Signal, 

Nugget,  Hub,  Locomotive,  Quirt,  Grip,  Quiz,  Quill,  Helmet, 
Phonograph,  Blade,  Clarion,  Tornado,  Hornet,  Breeze,  and 
Hoof  and  Horn. 

The  Omaha  Daily  Bee  is  acknowledged  to  be 
the  greatest  newspaper  between  Chicago  and  San 
Francisco.  It  is  one  of  the  very  few  great  papers 
in  America  still  owned  and  controlled  by  its  foun- 
der, who  has  continued  as  its  editor-in-chief  for  20 
years.  By  its  constant  aggressive  policy,  thorough 
Western  character,  and  energy  and  enterprise,  it 
has  grown*  from  a  little  four-column  folio  to  the 
proportions  of  a  metropolitan  paper,  equal  to  the 
very  best  in  every  respect.  The  Bee  was  brought  into  existence  in  1871,  through  the  desire  of 
its  present  owner,  Edward  Rosewater,  to  champion  an  educational  bill  before  the  Nebraska 
Legislature,  and  sprang  into  popularity  unexpectedly.  Its  founder 
did  not  contemplate  building  up  a  newspaper,  but  being  encour- 
aged by  the  phenomenal  success,  continued  its  publication  until 
The  Bee  was  placed  upon  a  firm  and  enduring  foundation.  The 
Bee  Building,  completed  in  1889,  at  a  cost  of  $500,000,  occu- 
pies a  larger  ground  area  than  any  other  newspaper  building  in 
America.  The  two  lower  stories  are  of  porphyry,  with  polished 
porphyry  .columns ;  and  the  five  upper  stories  are  of  chocolate- 
colored  obsidian  brick.  It  forms  a  square  of  132  feet  on  each 
side,  enclosing  a  glass-domed  court  which  lights  all  the  inner 
rooms.  The  interior  is  wainscoted  with  Tennessee  and  Italian 
marble  ;  the  floors  are  laid  in  mosaic  and  encaustic  tiling ;  and 
the  finish  is  in  oak.  The  building  is  absolutely  fire-proof,  and 
is  in  nearly  all  respects  the  ideal  newspaper  headquarters  of  this 
country.  While  The  Bee  has  always  been  a  Republican  paper, 
and  its  distinctive  policy  has  been  to  champion  the  interests  and  OMAHA  ;  NEW-YORK  LIFE-INS,  co. 


THE    BEE  "    BUILDING. 


OMAHA  '. 
OMAHA    NATIONAL   BANK. 


5 28  KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE    UNITED   STATES. 

rights  of  the  producer  and  bread-winner,  as  against  monopolistic  encroachments,  its  in- 
fluence has  been  potential  in  every  political  campaign  during  the  past  1 8  years,  and  its 
steadfast  advocacy  of  the  rights  of  the  people  has  gained  for  it  a  position  well-nigh  impreg- 
nable. For  more  than  ten  years  past  two  editions  daily  have  been 
issued.  The  Sunday  Bee  was  established  five  years  ago. 

Finances.  — In  1890,  there  were  669  banks  and  bankers  in 
Nebraska.  The  immense  strides  made  by  the  West  are  more 
clearly  shown  in 'the  strong  condition  of  her  banks  than  in  any 
other  department  of  commercial  affairs.  The  prosaic  history  of  a 
bank  reflects  accurately  the  rise  and  progress  of  a  town,  and  is  a 
fair  but  conservative  indication  of  its  possibilities.  The  story  of 
the  Omaha  National  Bank  is  a  shining  example  of  Western  enter- 
prise and  energy.  When  the  bank  opened,  in  1866,  with  a  capital 
of  $50,000,  there  were  but  nine  banks  and  bankers  in  Nebraska, 
and  within  60  miles  of  Omaha  white  men  had  been  massacred  by 
Indians  that  very  summer.  The  town  was  a  frontier  outpost  and 
outfitting  point,  and  its  nearness  to  the  gold-fields  was  evidenced 
by  the  fact  that  among  the  assets  of  the  Omaha  National  Bank 
that  year  were  $9,000  in  gold-dust.  In  1866  the  deposits  of  the  bank  were  $130,000;  in 
1882,  they  rose  to  $2,075,000;  and  now  they  reach  $6,500,000,  with  the  bank  capital  ad- 
vanced to  $1,000,000.  But  the  live  business  of  a  growing  country  can  be  better  shown  by 
the  volume  of  trade  in  the  daily  transactions  of  its  banks,  or  its  extended  lists  of  banks 
keeping  actual  accounts  in  its  money  center  than  by  its  deposits.  The  daily  transactions  of 
the  bank  in  October,  1866,  reached  $17,173,  and  in  October, 
1890,  these  figures  reached  $2,048,194.  A  line  of  banks  ex- 
tending from  Des  Moines,  Iowa,  to  Portland,  Oregon,  together 
with  transcontinental  points  like  Salt- Lake  City,  Butte,  and 
Helena,  keep  their  accounts  with  the  Omaha  National  Bank. 
The  records  of  this  bank  show  that  it  has  upwards  of  2,400 
private  and  450  bank  accounts,  while  in  April,  1867,  there  were 
only  two  bank  and  219  private  accounts.  The  Omaha  Na- 
tional's strength  has  always  been  in  its  careful  and  conservative 
management,  and  the  policy  of  "doing  a  banking  business 
only."  It  has  been  well  officered,  by  strong  men.  The  late 
Hon.  Ezra  Millard  was  the  first  President,  and  J.  M.  Field, 
Cashier.  Mr.  Field  resigning  in  December,  1866,  Hon.  J.  H.  Millard  was  elected  Cashier, 
and  in  1884  succeeded  to  the  Presidency.  Mr.  Millard  ranks  very  high  as  an  able  financier, 
and  the  present  strong  status  of  the  Omaha  National  is  largely  due  to  his  wise  and  skilful 
management. 

Chief  Cities. — Omaha  occupies  a  plateau  80  feet  above  the  Missouri,  and  18  miles 
north  of  the  inflowing  of  the  Platte,  and  has  grown  from  4,000  inhabitants,  in  1860,  to 
30,518  in  1880,  61,835  in  1885,  and  140,000  in  1890,  having  a  trade  of  $75,000,000  yearly 
with  the  mining  and  farming  States.  The  Omaha  &  Grant  Smelting- Works,  the  largest 
in  America,  are  here,  resolving  one  fourth  of  the 
silver  of  the  United  States,  and  great  quantities 
of  gold.  The  city  has  noble  public  buildings, 
broad  avenues,  95  churches,  a  belt-line  of  rail- 
road, and  100  miles  of  motor,  cable  and  horse 
railways  in  her  streets.  Among  the  finest  build- 
ings is  that  belonging  to  the  New- York  Life- 
insurance  Company.  There  are  immense  pork 
andbeef  packing  establishments  at  South  Omaha,  OMAHA:  GOVERNMENT  BUILDINQ. 


BEATRICE  : 
GAGE-COUNTY  COURT-HOUSE. 


THE  STATE   OF  NEBRASKA. 


529 


Lincoln,  the  capital  and  chief  railroad-centre,  has  many  elevators  for  the  grain  of  Ne- 
braska, and  large  stockyards.  Kearney  is  an  important  city  on  the  Platte,  founded  in  1872. 
The  water-power,  which  is  expected  to  make  a  second  Minneapolis  here,  comes  from  a  canal 


Hastings,  in 
country ;  Be- 
a  brisk  Mis- 
munities. 


OMAHA  !     NEW   CITY    HALL. 


leading  from  the  Platte,  16  miles  west,  to  the  bluffs  behind  the  city, 
the   south    centre,  a   solidly-built   commercial   city,  in  a  rich  corn 
atrice,   in  the  southeast,  with  large  quarries  ;  and   Nebraska  City, 
souri-River  port,  26  miles  below  the  Platte,  are  fast-growing  com- 
United-States  Institutions. — The  military  posts  in  Nebraska 
are  Fort  Omaha,  with  ten  companies  in  garrison ;  Fort  Sidney,  five 
companies  ;   and  Forts  Niobrara  and  Robinson,  eight  com- 
panies each.     The  headquarters  of  the  Department  of  the 
Platte  is  at  Omaha. 

The  Omaha  and  Winnebago  Reservation  cares  for  2,400 
Indians,  with  a  school  and  an  industrial  boarding-school. 
The  Santee  Agency,  farther  up  the  Missouri,  has  i,4OoSantee 
Sioux  Indians,  from  Minnesota,  on  allotted  lands.  The 
American  Missionary  Association  supports  two  churches 
here,  and  the  large  and  efficient  Santee  Normal  Training 
School  for  1 50  boys  and  girls,  teaching  the  English  branches, 
military  drill,  and  mechanical  work.  The  Episcopalians  have  three  chapels,  with  many 
devout  Santee  communicants.  The  Sacs  and  Foxes  have  a  small  reservation 
in  the  southeast,  and  the  Ogalalla  Sioux  are  at  Pine  Ridge,  in  the  northwest. 
Railroads. — The  Burlington  &  Missouri-River  Railroad  controls 
2,500  miles  in  the  State.  This  road  has  at  Lincoln  42  miles  of 
side-track,  on  which  800  men  handle  from  1,000  to  2,000  cars  a  day. 
The  Fremont,  Elkhorn  &  Missouri- Valley  Railroad 
operates  over  960  miles  of  road,  giving  connection  with 
the  northwestern  counties.  The  Union  Pacific  Railroad 
operates  875  miles  of  road,  opening  routes  to  the  Pacific 
Coast  and  to  the  Kansas  systems ;  the  Missouri  Pacific 
has  400  miles  in  the  State,  and  gives  a  short  line  to  Kansas 
City,  St.  Louis,  and  the  East. 

The  Union-Pacific  Railroad  bridge,  at  Omaha,  built  in 
1869-73,  and  afterwards  enlarged,  cost  about  $3,500,000, 
and  is  an  iron  structure  of  eleven  spans,  each  250  feet 
long.  The  steel  railroad  bridge  at  Nebraska  City  dates 
from  1887-8 ;  and  near  it  is  a  singular  V-shaped  pontoon 
bridge,  with  steel  moving-chains.  The  fine  railway  bridges  across  the  Missouri,  at  Blair 
and  Plattsmouth,  were  built  by  the  Keystone  Bridge  Company,  of  Pittsburgh,  Penn.  The 
last-named  is  a  single-track  structure  of  five  spans  (1,400  feet)  resting  on  masonry  piers, 
and  approached  by  1,560  feet  of  iron  viaducts.  The  Blair  Bridge  was  opened  in  1883,  and 
cost  $2,000,000.  The  great  Sibley  and  Rulo  bridges,  farther  down  the  Missouri,  were 
built  by  the  Edge  Moor  Company,  of  Wilmington,  Del. 
The  eastern  and  southern  parts  of  Nebraska  are  thor- 
oughly served  by  railways,  whose  lines  have  also  covered 
the  centre,  and  are  advancing  into  the  northwest.  The 
latter  region  is  already  traversed  from  end  to  end  by  the 
great  lines  leading  to  the  Black  Hills  and  central  Wyo- 
ming. The  vast  areas  of  sand  hills,  with  their  multitudes 
of  round  tops,  from  time  immemorial  a  favorite  haunt  of 
buffalo,  feeding  on  their  scanty  but  nutritious  grasses, 
have  now  been  invaded  by  locomotives  and  ranchmen.  PLATTSMOUTH  :  c. ,  B.  &  Q.  RAILWAY  BRIDGE. 


HASTINGS: 
HASTINGS  COLLEGE  AND  MCCORMICK  HALL. 


53° 


OMAHA  I     BEMIS    OMAHA    BAG    FACTORY. 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

The  Manufactures  of  Nebraska  numbered  1,403  in 
1880,  with  a  yearly  product  of  $12,627,000.  They  have 
since  trebled  in  number,  and  quadrupled  in  output.  The 
Bemis  Omaha  Bag  Factory  is  one  of  the  features  of  Omaha's 
industries. 

The  situation  of  Nebraska  between  the  parallels  of  lati- 
tude where  the  corn  and  wheat  belts  overlap  each  other, 
gives  it  a  remarkable  advantage  among  the  Western  com- 
monwealths. The  enormous  production  of  cereals  has  been 
uniformly  of  a  high  merchantable  grade,  and  the  rapid  ad- 
vance of  the  railway  systems  affords  the  best  facilities  for 
transportation. 

Muttering  Thunder,  an  ancient  Indian  chief,  informed  Robert  W.  Furnas  that  the  name 
Maha  (applied  to  his  tribe,  and  spoken  by  the  French  traders  Ati  Maha,  and  by  the 
Americans  as  Omaha}  meant  "  Farthest  up  the  River."  It  was  given  to  the  tribe  in  refer- 
ence to  their  place  on  the  Missouri  River,  as  regarded  the  Otoe  and  Missouri  Indians ;  and 
was  pronounced  O-maw-ha.  The  pioneer  newspaper  was  the  Omaha  Arrow,  issued  in 
1854,  from  the  office  of  the  Council-Bluffs  Bugle.  The  Muscatine  Enquirer  made  merry  at 
the  expense  of  the  new  metropolis,  saying:  "We  learn  that  this  young  city  contains  the 
sum  total  of  six  houses.  By  the  time  the  universal  Yankee  nation  gets  across  Nebraska, 
but  one  house  will  be  needed  to  constitute  a  city  ;  and 
each  squatter  will  lead  a  city  life." 

In  his  Universal  Geography,  Jedediah  Morse  re- 
marked that  "It  has  been  supposed  that  all  settlers 
who  go  beyond  the  Mississippi  River  will  be  forever  lost 
to  the  United  States."  Lieut.  Pike  reported  to  the 
War  Department,  that  "From  these  immense  prairies 
may  be  derived  one  great  advantage  to  the  United 
States  ;  namely,  the  restriction  of  our  population  to 
some  certain  limits,  and  thereby  a  continuation  of  the 
Union.  They  will  be  constrained  to  limit  their  extent 
to  the  West,  to  the  borders  of  the  Missouri  and  Mississippi,  while  they  leave  the  prairies, 
incapable  of  cultivation,  to  the  wandering  and  uncivilized  aborigines  of  the  country." 
Major  Long  reported  that  this  region  bore  "a  manifest  resemblance  to  the  deserts  of 
Siberia."  The  Edinburgh  Review  said:  "There  lies  the  desert,  except  in  a  few  spots  on 
the  borders  of  the  rivers,  incapable,  probably  forever,  of  fixed  settlements."  The  North- 
American  Review  (in  1858)  said:  "The  people  of  the  United  States  have  reached  their 
inland  western  frontier,  and  the  banks  of  the  Missouri  River  are  the  shores  at  the  termina- 
tion of  a  vast  ocean  desert  over  1,000  miles  in  breadth,  which  it  is  proposed  to  travel,  if  at 
all,  with  caravans  of  camels,  and  which  interpose  a  final  barrier  to  the  establishment  of 

large  communities,  agricultural,  commercial  or 
even  pastoral." 

On  these  impracticable  trans-Missouri  deserts 
now  dwell  5,000,000  happy  Americans.  The 
122,000  Nebraskans  of  the  year  1870  now  num- 
ber 1,100,000,  with  120,000  improved  farms, 
worth  $300,000,000,  and  nearly  all  operated  by 
owners,  and  provided  with  nearly  $100,000,000 
worth  of  live-stock.  The  net  earnings  of  her 
railways  reach  $8,000,000  yearly;  and  her 
yearly  manufactures  exceed  $50,000,000.  As  a 
THE  PLATTE  RIVER  :  MISSOURI  PACIFIC  RAILWAY.  desert,  Nebraska  is  not  a  success. 


THE    NEMAHA    RIVER,    ON    THE    MISSOURI 
PACIFIC    RAILWAY. 


HISTORY. 

In  1825  forty  trappers 
from  the  Yellowstone,  un- 
der the  leadership  of  Jede- 
diah  S.  Smith  of  New  York, 
followed  the  sluggish  Hum- 
boldt  River  from  its  source 
to  its  sink  in  the  Great 
Basin.  Thence  across  the 
sage-brush  plain  they  jour- 
neyed to  the  beautiful  Walker  Lake,  an  oblong  jewel 
flashing  in  its  mountain- hemmed  solitude;  thence  up  the 
Walker  River,  filing  along  the  canpns,  leaping  the  cascades, 
and  clinging  to  the  sides  of  the  rifted  rocks,  they  slowly 
climbed  the  mighty  Sierras,  until  before  them  the  broad 
valleys  of  California  stretched  in  silent  affluence.  Ogden 
visited  the  Humboldt  in  1831,  Sublette  in  1832,  Bonneville 
and  Kit  Carson  in  1833;  and  in  1834  Capt.  Bartleson  led 
the  first  company  of  overland  emigrants  across  the  Great 
Basin.  In  1843-45  the  camp-fires  of  Fremont  gleamed 
along  the  track  of  the  pioneers  of  1825,  while  the  Path- 
finder explored  and  named  the  Humboldt  and  Carson 
Rivers,  and  Pyramid  Lake. 

Nevada  is  a  part  of  the  vast  domain  which  was  gained 
from  Mexico  in  1848,  by  the  treaty  of  Guadalupe  Hidalgo. 
Prior  to  1 86 1  Utah  Territory  extended  to  the  California 
line,  as  did  the  ambitious  Mormon  "  State  of  Deseret,"  or- 
ganized in  1849,  whose  emblem  was  the  industrious  honey- 
bee, and  the  purpose  of  whose  founders  was  to  combine 
their  ideas  of  the  Kingdom  of  God  with  the  development 
of  the  Mormon  community,  and  to  secure  to  every  Saint  the 
unrestricted  pursuit  of  large  quantities  of  domestic  happi- 
ness. In  1851  the  Utah  Legislature  organized  several  coun- 
ties along  the  eastern  slope  of  the  Sierras  and  on  the  Rio 
Colorado,  and  until  1856-7  there  were  thriving  Mormon 
settlements  in  Carson,  Eagle,  and  Washoe  Valleys. 

While  Nevada  remained  a  part  of  Utah,  and  prior  to  the 
little  or  no  inducement  for  settlement  within  her  borders,  and 


STATISTICS. 

Settled  at Genoa. 

Settled  in 1851 

Founded  by Mormons. 

Admitted  to  the  U.  S.,  .  .  1864 
Population,  in  1860,  .  .  .  6,857 

In  1870 42,491 

In  1880, 62,266 

White, 53,566 

Colored, 8,710 

American-born,     .     .     .       36,613 
Foreign-born,   ....       25,653 

Males, 42,019 

Females, 20,247 

In  1890  (U.  S.  census),       .       45,761 

Population  to  the  square  mile,       0.6 

Voting  Population  (in  1880),       31,255 

Vote  for  Harrison  (1888),  7,229 

Vote  for  Cleveland  (1888),        5,326 

Net  Public  Debt None. 

Assessed  Valuation  of 

Property  (1890),  .  .  .  $25,000,000 
Area  (square  miles),  ...  110,700 
U  S.  Representatives  (1893),  I 

Militia  (Disciplined),  ...  565 

Counties, 14 

Post-offices, 156 

Railroads  (miles),  ....  925 

Manufactures  (yearly),        $1,323,000 
Farm  Land  (in  acres),    .          530,862 
Farm- Land  Values,  $5,408,325 

Average  School  Attendance,       5,149 

Newspapers, 25 

Latitude 35°  to  42°  N. 

Longitude,  .  .  .  114°  to  120°  W. 
Temperature,  .  .  .  — 40°  to  115° 
Mean  Temperature,  .  .  .  55° 

TEN  CHIEF  PLACES  AND  THEIR  POPU- 
LATIONS.    (Census  of  1890.) 

Virginia  City, 8,511 

Carson  City,  .     .                   .     .  3,950 

Reno,     ....                   .     .  3,563 

Eureka,      ...                   .     .  1,609 

Austin .     .  1,215 

Tuscarora,     .     .                   ..  1,156 

Winnemucca,     .                    .     .  1,037 

Pioche, .     .  676 

Mason  Valley, 577 

Dayton, 57° 


discovery  of  silver,  there  was 
although  the  overland  army  of 


532 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 


LAKE   TAHOE. 


gold-seekers  made  an  almost  continuous  line  across  the 
continent,  the  first  mail  line  between  Sacramento  and  Salt- 
Lake  City  (750  miles)  was  not  established  until  1851.  A 
single  mule  sufficed  for  the  transportation  of  the  monthly 
mail.  This  primitive  conveyance  for  carrying  letters  was 
confiscated  by  a  Shoshone  Indian,  who  at  the  same  time 
added  the  scalp  of  the  carrier  to  his  collection  of  curiosi- 
ties. In  winter  a  Norwegian,  known  far  and  wide  as 
"Snowshoe  Thompson,"  carried  the  mails  across  the 
Sierras,  and  his  ten-foot  snow  shoes  were  gifted  with  the 
departmental  requirements  of  "certainty,  celerity  and 
security."  Crandall's  Pioneer  Stage  Line  from  Placer- 
ville  to  Genoa  began  running  in  1857  ;  and  the  first  over- 
land mail  stage  arrived  in  1858.  In  1860  the  Pony  Ex- 
press was  established. 

In  1858  the  black  lumps  which  bothered  the  few  gold- 
washers  in  Gold-Hill  Gulch  and  the  canon  at  the  base  of  Mount  Davidson,  were  assayed  by 
two  miners  named  Grosch,  who  possessed  some  knowledge  of  metallurgy,  and  pronounced 
to  be  rich  sulphurets  of  silver.  The  following  year  the  rush  to  Washoe  fairly  commenced. 
Early  in  1 86 1  Congress  organized  the  Territory  of  Nevada,  out  of  Utah,  west  of  150°. 

In  the  vigorous  and  picturesque  language  of  the  Hon.  Thomas  Fitch,  of  Reno:  "It 
is  difficult  even  for  one  who  was  himself  a  part  of  the  times  of  which  he  writes  to  give 
an  adequate  idea  of  life  in  Nevada  in  1862-4.  Over  50,000  of  the  brightest,  bravest, 
most  generous,  enterprising  and  energetic  men  on  earth,  the -Knight  Paladins  who  challenged 
the  brute  forces  of  Nature  to  combat,  the  soldiers  who,  possessed  with  the  aura  sacra  fames, 
faced  the  storm  and  the  savage,  the  desert  and  disease,  swarmed  around  the  base  of  Mount 
Davidson  and  reached  out  to  Aurora,  to  Reese  River  and  to  the  mountains  of  the  Humboldt. 
Crawling  like  huge  flies  over  the  bald  skulls  of  lofty  mountains,  plodding  across  alkaline 
deserts  which  pulsed  with  deluding  mirages  under  the  throbbing  light,  camping  amid  rocks 
worn  out  in  the  conflicts  of  chaos,  and  thrown  away  upon  the  world,  smiting  with  pick  and 
hammer  the  adamantine  doors  of  the  earth's  treasure-chambers,  these  pioneers  engaged  in 
their  self-imposed  task.  Readier  with  rifle  or  revolver  than  with  scriptural  quotation  was 
the  Nevadan  of  those  days,  and  readier  still  with  his  "coin-sack"  at  the  call  of  distress. 
Under  the  blue  shirt  might  be  found  sometimes  a  graduate  of  Yale,  and  sometimes  a  fugitive 
from  Texas.  No  man  assumed  to  be  better  than  his  neighbor,  and  no  man  conceded  his 
inferiority  to  anybody.  Freiberg  graduates  and  sheep-herders,  divinity  students  and  Cornish 
miners,  farmer  boys  and  ex-judges  of  the  Supreme  Court  were  all  treasure-seekers  together, 
and  a  blow  of  a  pick  might  make  or  unmake  fortunes,  and  equalize  the  beggars  and  the 
princes  of  this  Aladdin's  cave.  Some  found  fortunes  and  some  found  unmarked  graves 
upon  the  hillsides,  and  many  have  since  become  rich  or  renowned  in  other  fields,  but  not  one 

among  them  all  will  not  remember  with  affection 
the  days  way  back  '  in  the  sixties, '  when  he  spun 
the  woof  of  rainbows  in  the  Sage-brush  State." 
By  1 86 1  quartz  mills  were  erected  and  ma- 
chinery transported  across  the  mountains,  and 
the  white  metal  commenced  to  pour  in  vast  and 
increasing  volume  into  the  channels  of  the 
world's  commerce,  sustaining  the  credit  of  the 
Nation  in  the  hour  of  its  peril. 

During  the  recent  civil  war  the  sentiment 
of  the  people  of  Nevada  was  overwhelmingly 
PYRAMID  LAKE.  unionist.     The  Territory  raised  six  companies 


THE  STATE   OF  NEVADA. 


533 


SODA    LAKE. 


of  infantry  and  six  companies  of  cavalry,  num- 
bering 1, 1 80  men.  Since  the  depreciation 
of  silver,  Nevada  has  lost  greatly  in  popula- 
tion, and  seems  to  present  the  strange  anomaly 
of  a  dying  American  State.  Its  main  hope 
seems  to  be  in  the  remonetization  of  silver, 
and  a  consequent  new  life  in  the  mining  dis- 
tricts, or  else  in  the  development  of  great 
irrigation  systems. 

The  Name  of  the  State  comes  from  its 
magnificent  Western  frontier.  From  their 
resemblance  to  the  serrated  chain  of  Spanish -Granada,  these  mountains  are  called  the  Sierra 
Nevada,  or  "Mountains  Snowy,"  although  the  snow-fall,  except  on  the  high  ranges,  is  not 
great,  and  thermometrical  reports  show  that  Nevada  possesses  about  the  same  winter  cli- 
mate as  Baltimore,  and  a  summer  climate  analogous  to  that  of  Nova  Scotia.  The  popular 
names  of  Nevada  are  THE  SILVER  STATE,  from  its  chief  product :  The  Sage-Brush  State, 
because  the  valleys  and  hills  are  covered  with  the  wild  artemisia ;  and  The  Battle-Born 
State,  commemorating  its  admission  to  the  Union  during  the  Civil  War. 

The  Arms  of  Nevada  include  a  railway  train  in  a  mountain  gorge ;  a  plow,  sheaf  and 
sickle  ;  two  mountains,  with  a  quartz-mill,  a  tunnel  to  the  silver  leads,  a  miner  running  out 
a  car-load  of  ore,  and  a  team  loaded  with  ore  for  the  mill.  In  the  background  are  snowy 
mountains,  with  the  sun  rising.  The  motto  is  :  All  for  our  Country. 

The  Governors  of  Nevada  have  been  :  Territorial:  Jas.  W.  Nye,  1861-4.  State:  Jas. 
W.  Xye  (acting),  1864  ;  Henry  G.  Blasdel,  1864-71;  L.  R.  Bradley,  1871-9;  J.  H.  Kinkead, 
1879-83;  J.  W.  Adams,  1883-7;  C.  C.  Stevenson,  1887-91 ;  and  Ross  K.  Colcord,  1891-5. 

Descriptive. — Nevada  occupies  a  part  of  the  great  interior  basin  between  the  Rocky 
Mountains  and  the  Sierra  Nevada,  in  which  the  rainfall  is  generally  confined  to  the  months 
between  November  and  May,  thus  rendering  agriculture  (except  in  the  narrow  valleys  along 
the  streams)  uncertain,  and  therefore  unprofitable,  save  where  facilities  exist  for  irrigation. 
Nearly  a  hundred  mountain  ranges  traverse  the  plateau,  some  of  them  reaching  a  length  of 
100  miles  and  a  height  of  from  9,000  to  12,000  feet,  and  generally  trending  north  and  south. 
These  ridges  are  covered  rather  sparsely  with  pinon  or  nut-pine,  and  occasional  groves  of 
white-pine,  with  some  oak  and  cedar  and  locust ;  and  along  the  streams  maybe  found  cotton- 
woods.  The  ranges  are  from  six  to  20  miles  wide,  and  long  valleys  of  similar  width  separate 
them,  occasionally  broken  by  solitary  buttes,  or  expanding  into  broad  basins  covered  with  sage 
brush,  sand-grass,  cacti,  mesquite  and  greasewood.  There  are  millions  of  acres  of  sage- 
brush land,  the  soil  of  which  is  rich  in  plant-food  and  abounding  with  elements  of  fertility, 
but  which,  in  the  absence  of  facilities  for  water  storage  and  distribution,  have  always  been 
classed  as  arid  and  useless.  The  Great  Basin  is  supposed  to  have  once  formed  part  of  a  sea 
of  several  hundred  thousand  square  miles  in  area,  and  when  the  ocean  water  drained  off,  the 
great  plateau  remained,  4, 500  feet  above  the  tide.  The  Colorado  River  flows  along  the  south- 
eastern border  for  150  miles,  a  rapid  and  powerful  stream,  half  a  mile  wide,  and  navigable 
under  favoring  circumstances  from  Rioville  to  the  Gulf  of  California.  The  El-Dorado 
Canon  is  twelve  miles  long  and  200  to  600 
feet  deep,  and  the  great  river  rushes  through 
it  with  tremendous  speed.  Aside  from  the 
Rio  Virgen  and  two  creeks  (tributaries  of 
the  Colorado)  in  the  southeast,  and  the 
Owyhee  and  Bruneau  (tributaries  of  the 
Snake  River)  in  the  northeast,  all  the  rivers 
of  Nevada  lose  themselves  in  the  sandy  soil 
of  the  valleys,  or  empty  into  sinks,  some  of  WINNEMUCCA  LAKE. 


534 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


HUMBOLDT    MOUNTAINS  1     GLACIER  CANON. 


which  are  stagnant  and  alkaline,  while  others  remain 
fresh  and  sweet,  being  probably  drained  by  under- 
ground rivers.  Thus  the  rapid  Truckee,  flowing  from 
Lake  Tahoe  and  Lake  Donner,  high  up  in  the  Sierras, 
discharges  into  Pyramid  Lake  after  a  course  of  97 
miles,  through  spruce  and  pine  forests  for  half  the  dis- 
tance and  through  meadow  lands  for  the  remainder. 
Walker  River  rushes  cold  and  clear  from  the  Sierra, 
and  feeds  the  mountain-walled  Walker  Lake,  30  miles 
long  and  five  to  15  miles  wide  (350  square  miles)  and 
abounding  in  fish.  Carson  River  issues  from  lakes 
in  the  Sierra,  and  winds  200  miles,  part  of  the  way  through  canons  and  pine  forests,  and 
part  of  the  way  over  sage-brush  plains,  to  the  Carson  Sinks,  which  are  ordinarily  25  by  ten 
miles  in  area,  and  in  the  wet  season  achieve  a  length  of  80  miles.  The  Humboldt  rises 
in  the  Goose-Creek  Range,  and  flows  southwesterly  350  miles,  descending  3,000  feet  and 
continually  shrinking  in  volume,  until  it  reaches  its  sink,  called  Humboldt  Lake,  30  by  ten 
miles  in  area.  In  high  water  Humboldt  Lake  runs  into  the  lower  Carson  Sink,  through  a 
long  slough.  Reese  River,  in  central  Nevada,  is  swallowed  by  the  thirsty  land  after  a 
course  of  140  miles ;  Quinn  River  after  80  miles,  and  the 
Amargosa  River  after  150  miles. 

Pyramid  Lake  is  35  by  twelve  miles  in  area,  4,000  feet  above 
the  sea,  and  in  many  places  of  great  depth.  It  is  surrounded  by 
high  mountains,  and  marked  by  a  pyramidal  rocky  island  600  feet 
in  height.  Near  this  lake  occurred  the  disastrous  battle  of 
May,  1860,  where  an  attacking  force  of  105  Nevada  volunteers 
was  defeated,  with  a  loss  of  half  their  number,  by  the  Pah-Ute 
Indians.  Lake  Winnemucca  (also  a  sink),  1 8  by  eight  miles 
in  area,  lies  east  of  Pyramid  Lake.  In  high  water  Franklin 
and  Ruby  Lakes  are  united,  and  form  a  brackish  reservoir  15 
miles  long.  Washoe  Lake  lies  close  to  the  Sierra,  and  covers  an 
area  of  18  square  miles.  Its  waters  are  shallow  and  slightly 
alkaline,  though  it  is  filled  with  small  fish  called  chubs.  One 
third  of  the  beautiful  Lake  Tahoe  lies  in  Nevada,  the  remainder 
being  within  the  borders  of  California. 

The  unalkaline  lakes  and  streams  contain  many  trout,  and  some  of  them  have  also  been 
stocked  with  catfish,  perch,  bass,  terrapin,  salmon  and  salmon  trout.  Around  them  beavers 
and  otters  dwell ;  and  over  the  plains  roam  myriads  of  jack-rabbits  and  coyotes,  and  a  few 
lynxes  and  cougars,  and  black,  cinnamon  and  grizzly  bears.  Antelopes  and  mountain- 
sheep  haunt  the  remote  highlands ;  and  elk,  deer,  and  moose  are  sometimes  seen.  Grouse, 
or  sage-hens,  are  abundant,  wild  turkeys  are  sometimes  found  on  the  mountains,  quail  are 
plentiful,  and  the  sinks  and  lakes  swarm  with  wild  geese,  ducks,  plover  and  every  variety 

of  water-fowl. 

~  ^   J         North   of    Pyramid  Lake   is   the    Black-Rock 

I  Desert,  or  Mud  Lakes,  a  tract  of  nearly  1,000 
I  square  miles,  in  summer  a  barren  level  of  alkali, 
fff^fffl  and  in  winter  covered  in  places  with  shallow  water. 
There  are  many  other  "mud"  lakes  in  Nevada,  in 
basin-shaped  valleys  of  impervious  stiff  clay. 

The  Climate  is  remarkably  dry  and  healthful, 
and  meat  may  be  cured  in  the  open  air.     The 
clouds  from  the  Pacific  are  broken  upon  the  moun- 
HUMBOLDT  VALLEY.  tains,  which  receive  a  much  larger  rainfall  than  the 


IN    THE    HUMBOLDT    MOUNTAINS. 


THE  STATE   OF  NEVADA. 


535 


HYDRAULIC    MINING. 


valleys ;  and  fogs  are  unknown.  In  summer  the 
thermometer  rarely  rises  above  95°,  and  the  nights 
are  cooled  by  mountain  breezes.  The  winter  tem- 
perature hardly  ever  reaches  zero  on  the  plains.  In 
the  east  cloud-bursts  are  of  frequent  occurrence;  in  the 
west  strong  southwest  winds  prevail.  In  the  south  the 
mean  annual  temperature  is  70°,  with  a  yearly  rain- 
fall of  five  inches ;  in  the  north  and  west  the  tempera- 
ture is  55°,  and  the  rainfall  15  inches.  On  the  plains 
mirages  often  spread  their  delusive  pictures,  and  sand- 
storms and  whirling  sand  pillars  sometimes  bring  dis- 
comfort to  the  traveller.  Pulmonary  and  bronchial 
troubles  and  asthma  are  almost  unknown,  for  the  air  is  so 
pure  and  dry  that  it  acts  as  an  antiseptic. 

Farming. —  By  the  construction  of  storage  reservoirs  in 
natural  mountain  basins,  and  of  irrigating  canals,  Nevada  may 
be  made  a  prosperous  agricultural  State;  but  much  of  the  land 
is  now  unoccupied,  and  to  the  superficial  observer  arid.  In 
the  irrigable  valleys  of  the  west  now  under  cultivation,  barley,  wheat  and  oats  are  the 
chief  cereal  crops.  The  root  vegetables,  especially  potatoes,  are  prolific  in  yield.  Honey 
is  made  in  considerable  quantities,  and  the  dairy  products  are  growing  in  extent.  There 

are  300,000  apple  trees,  and  a  great  number  of  almond, 
pear,  peach,  and  plum  trees,  all  of  which  bear  excel- 
lent fruit.  Berries  and  small  fruits  grow  luxuriantly. 
I^Ei^^^^BI  There  are  300,000  sheep  and  200,000  cattle  in 
Nevada,  in  a  climate  free  from  all  blizzards  and  pesti- 
lent heats.  San  Francisco  is  the  market  for  the  local 
beef  and  mutton. 

Minerals. —  Nevada  has  I2O  surveyed  localities  of 
mineral  springs,  hot  and  cold,  salt  and  borax,  sulphur 
and  iron,  some  of  them  containing  infusions  of  arsenic, 
mercury  and  other  minerals  as  well.  Steamboat  Springs, 
eleven  miles  south  of  Reno,  are  a  series  of  hot  foun- 
tains, with  puffs  and  jets  of  steam  continually  leaping  from  crevices  in  the  rocks.  The 
temperature  is  212°.  At  Elko  the  water  of  the  hot  springs  has  a  singular  resemblance  in 
taste  to  chicken  broth.  At  Carson,  at  Lawton's,  and  on  the  Truckee  River  and  at  other 
points  large  swimming-baths  of  stone  have  been  constructed.  In  Smoky  Valley  a  caldron- 
like  boiling  spring  rushes  from  the  earth.  Hot  Creek  is  the  steaming  outlet  of  a  group  of 
thermal  springs  in  Nye  County.  Hinds'  Hot  Springs,  ten  miles  from  Wellington's,  the  hot 
springs  east  of  Wadsworth,  and  the  Golconda,  Kyle's,  Bruffy's  and  Shaw's  hot  springs  are 
well  known  to  Nevadans.  Many  of  these  properties  are  improved  by  hotels  and  cottages 
for  health-seekers,  which  receive  patronage  from  well-to-do  citizens  of  Nevada. 

Bullion  is  the  chief  product  of  Nevada,  which  has 
sent  out  over  $600,000,000  in  silver  and  gold.  In 
1877-8  alone  the  product  was  $87,000,000.  The 
bullion  produced  on  the  Comstock  is  in  proportion 
of  value  about  two  thirds  of  silver  and  one  third  of 
gold.  Above  $350,000,000  have  been  shipped  from 
the  Comstock  lode,  of  which  the  famous  California 
and  Consolidated- Virginia  mines  yielded  $130,000,- 
ooo.  After  1875  tne  mines  became  less  productive. 
The  ores  are  chlorides  and  sulphurets.  The  Sutro 


HUMBOLDT    RANGE  :      ARCH/EAN    BLUFFS. 


536 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE   UNITED    STATES. 


PLIOCENE    BLUFFS. 


Tunnel,  12,000  feet  long,  drains  the  mines 
to  a  depth  of  1,600  feet.  The  hoisting 
works  over  the  mines  are  the  largest  and 
most  complete  in  the  world.  After  the 
apparent  exhaustion  of  the  Comstock 
bonanzas,  thousands  of  men  left  Nevada. 
In  1 886-8,  new  and  valuable  deposits 
were  uncovered,  and  improved  methods 
were  devised,  which  permitted  the  work- 
ing of  the  low-grade  ores.  The  bullion- 
product  of  the  State  was  $9,000,000  in 
1886,  $10,200,000  in  1887,  and  $12,306,000  in  1888.  The  deposits  of  gold,  silver,  copper 
and  lead  in  the  interior  mountains  have  been  mined  with  success. 

Salt  appears  in  many  localities,  and  near  the  Rio  Virgen  forms  a  ridge  two  miles  long 
and  100  feet  thick,  of  pure,  hard  and  transparent  salt.  There  are  thousands  of  acres  of 
salt  beds,  of  great  depth,  and  white  as  snow.  The  soda  lakes  of  Churchill  County  produce 
great  quantities  of  soda.  Borax  is  produced  in  the  same  vicinity,  and  in  Esmeralda  County 
is  found  in  inexhaustible  marshes  and  lakes.  The  mineral  wealth  of  Nevada  includes  the 
pure  sulphur  of  Humboldt,  coal  of  Pancake  Mountain,  cinnabar  of  Washoe,  copper  of 
Lander  and  White  Pine,  antimony,  arsenic,  cobalt  and  nickel  of  Churchill ;  nitre,  isinglass, 
manganese,  alum,  kaolin,  iron  and  gypsum  of  Lyon  ;  mica  of  Elko,  and  graphite  of  Grimsby. 
The  Governor  and  executive  officers  are  elected  every  four  years.  The  Legislature 
contains  1 8  four-years'  senators  and  36  two-years'  assemblymen.  The  Supreme  Court  has 
three  elective  justices  ;  and  there  are  nine  elective  district  judges.  The  State  House  is  at 
Carson  City,  in  Eagle  Valley,  and  contains  the  State  Library,  of  22,000  volumes.  It  stands 
on  a  shady  grassy  square  of  four  blocks.  The  finest  building  in  Nevada  is  that  belonging 
to  the  United  States,  at  Carson  City.  The  State  Prison  is  near  Carson ;  the  Insane  Asylum 
(163  inmates),  at  Reno;  and  the  State  Orphan  Home,  at  Carson  City.  The  State  school- 
fund  exceeds  $1,100,000.  The  Nevada  State  University,  founded  in  1874,  is  at  Reno,  and 
has  seven  teachers  and  115  students.  The  Agricultural  Experiment  Station  is  at  Reno.  Ne- 
vada contains  9,000  Indians,  one  tenth  of  whom  can  speak  English  ;  4,500  are  Pah-Utes, 
300  Piutes,  4,200  Shoshones,  and  500  Washoes.  One  third  of  them  are  on  the  Pyramid- 
Lake,  Walker-River,  Duck-Valley  and  Moapa-River  Reservations. 

The  Railroad  System  of  Nevada  began  in  1867,  when  the  first  locomotive  entered 
the  State,  running  from  the  California  side  to  Crystal  Peak.  The  value  of  Central  Pacific 
Railroad  property  in  Nevada  is  $50,000,000,  the  length  being  448  miles.  The  railway 
from  Carson  City  to  Virginia  City  was  built  in  1868  and  extended  to  Reno  in  1871-2.  The 
Nevada  Central,  from  Battle  Mountain  to  Austin,  93  miles,  dates  from  1879—80.  The 
Eureka  &  Palisade  line  is  90  miles  long.  The  Carson  &  Colorado  Line  runs  from  near 
Carson  298  miles  south  to  Keeler ;  and  the  Nevada  &  Oregon  road  runs  from  Reno. 

The  Chief  Towns,  near  the  foot  of  the  Sierra,  are  Virginia  City,  with  its  great  gold 

and  silver  mines ;   Carson  City,  the  capital, 


and  an  important  supply-depot ;  and  Reno, 
at  the  junction  of  three  railways,  with  flour- 
ing-mills,  saw-mills,  and  reduction-works. 
Virginia  City  and  Gold  Hill  had  35,000 
inhabitants  in  1880,  with  metropolitan  in- 
stitutions, but  subsequently  fell  away.  Vir- 
ginia City  is  6,339  ^eet  above  the  sea,  Bel- 
mont  is  8,092  feet,  Treasure  Hill  9,077  and 
Barcelona  City,  10,480.  Austin  and  Eureka 
are  important  silver-mining  towns. 


VIRGINIA    CITY. 


New  Hampshire's  abor- 
igines   were    the    friendly 

Penacooks,  dwelling  along 

the  Merrimack  ;  the  Coos, 

along  the  Connecticut ;  the 

Pequawkets,  on  the  upper 

Saco  ;    the    Ossipees  ;   and 

several  smaller  tribes,  con- 

federated  against  the  Mo- 
hawks, under  the  wizard-sachem  Passaconaway,  whose  son 
and  successor,  Wonnolancet,  kept  most  of  them  neutral  dur- 
ing King  Philip's  War.  The  gallant  English  sailor,  Martin 
Pring,  explored  the  silent  coast  in  1603,  followed  by  Cham- 
plain  and  Capt.  John  Smith.  In  1622,  the  Plymouth  Com- 
pany (of  England)  granted  the  territory  of  Laconia,  from 
the  Merrimack  to  the  Kennebec,  to  Sir  Ferdinando  Gorges 
and  Capt.  John  Mason.  The  first  settlements  were  made 
by  adventurous  fishermen  and  traders,  sent  out  by  English 
patrons,  at  Cocheco  (Dover)  and  Little  Harbor  (near 
Portsmouth),  in  1623.  Exeter  was  founded,  in  1638,  by  the 
exiled  John  Wheelwright ;  and  the  first  house  at  Hampton 
rose  in  1636.  In  1641,  these  four  colonies  were  united  to 
Massachusetts,  and  in  1679,  New  Hampshire  became  a 
royal  province.  John  Mason's  heirs  and  their  claims 
caused  annoyance,  until  1 746,  when  twelve  Portsmouth  gen- 
tlemen bought  them  out.  The  colony  suffered  under  mer- 
ciless Indian  forays,  from  soon  after  King  Philip's  War, 
when  five  towns  were  attacked  in  succession,  down  nearly 
to  the  Revolution.  Dover,  Durham,  Exeter,  Rye  and  all 
the  outlying  settlements  met  the  fury  of  the  pagan  assaults, 
which  were  oftentimes  reinforced  by  detachments  of  French 
and  Canadian  troops.  Hundreds  of  settlers  were  slain,  and 
many  others  passed  into  a  dreary  captivity,  in  Canada ;  but 
naught  availed  to  check  the  advance  of  the  pioneers,  who 
moved  forward  into  the  Lake-country,  and  through  the  mountain-passes,  and  occupied  the 
fertile  valley  of  the  Connecticut.  In  the  Louisburg  and  Ticonderoga  campaigns,  New  Hamp- 
shire's sons  distinguished  themselves  on  many  a  hard-fought  field.  The  State  sent  18,289 


STATISTICS. 

Settled  at Dover. 

Settled  in 1623 

Founded  by    ....   Englishmen. 
One  of  the  Original  13  States. 
Population  in  1860,      .     .     .     326,073 

In  1870, 318,300 

In  1880, 346,991 

White, 346,229 

Colored, 762 

American-born,  •   .     .     .     300,697 
Foreign-born,   ....       46,294 

Males, 170,526 

Females, 176,465 

In  1890  (U.  S.  Census),     .     376,530 
Population  to  the  square  mile,     38.5 
Voting  Population  (1880),    .     105,138 
Vote  for  Harrison  (1888),        45,728 
Vote  for  Cleveland  (1888),       43,456 
Net  State  Debt,      .     .    $2,639,706.55 
Real  Property,   .     .     .      $117,000,000 
Personal  Property,      .      $130,000,000 
Area  (square  miles),   .     .     .        9,305 
U.  S.  Representatives  (1893),  2 

Militia  (Disciplined),       .     .          1,105 

Counties, 10 

Post-offices 538 

Railroads  (miles) 1,145 

Vessels, 65 

Tonnage, 10,148 

Manufactures  (yearly),    .  $73,978,028 

Operatives, 48,831 

Yearly  Wages,    .     .     .  $14,814,793 
Farm  Land  (in  acres),     .    .  3,721,173 
Farm-Land  Values,      .  $75,834,389 
Farm  Products  (yearly)  $13,474,330 
Public  Schools,  Average 
Daily  Attendance,  .    .     .       43,484 

Newspapers, 152 

Latitude.  .  .  42042/3o"  to  45^18'  N. 
Longitude,  7O°43/4O//  to  72*33'  W. 
Temperature,  .  .  .  — 49°  to  940 
Mean  Temperature  (Concord),  46° 

TEN  CHIEF  PLACES  AND  THEIR  POP- 
ULATIONS.    (Census  of  1890.) 


Manchester. 
Nashua,  .  . 
Concord,  .  . 
Dover,  .  . 
Portsmouth, 
Keene,  .  . 
Rochester,  . 
Somersworth, 
Laconia,  .  . 
Claremont,  . 
Exeter,  .  . 


44,126 
19,311 
17,004 
12,700 
9,827 
7,446 
7,396 
6,207 
6,143 
5.S&5 
4,234 


538  KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 

soldiers  into  the  Revolution,  of  whom  12,496  were  in  the  Continental  Line.  In  the  recent 
great  civil  war  she  was  represented  by  20  regiments  and  twelve  companies  and  batteries, 
numbering  33,937  men,  of  whom  nearly  5,000  died  in  the  service.  Between  1850  and  1890 
the  losses  by  the  war  and  by  emigration  checked  the  development  of  the  State,  and  left 
much  of  the  hill-country  in  a  desolate  and  deserted  condition.  In  the  meantime  the  pros- 
perous manufacturing  cities  along  the  Merrimack  have  risen  to  great  power  and  promi- 
nence ;  and  the  State  has  become  celebrated  also  for  its  beautiful  summer-resorts. 

Thoreau  thus  pictures  the  scenery  of  the  Merrimack  River  :  "At  first  it  comes  on  mur- 
muring to  itself  by  the  base  of  stately  and  retired  mountains,  through  moist,  primitive  woods 
whose  juices  it  receives,  where  the  bear  still  drinks  it,  and  the  cabins  of  settlers  are  far  be- 
tween, and  there  are  few  to  cross  its  stream ;  enjoying  in  solitude  its  cascades  still  unknown 
to  fame  ;  by  long  ranges  of  mountains  of  Sandwich  and  Squam,  slumbering  like  tumuli  of 
Titans,  with  the  peaks  of  Moosilauke,  the  Haystack,  and  Kearsarge  reflected  in  its  waters ; 
.  .  .  to  Plum  Island,  its  sand  ridges  scalloping  along  the  horizon  like  the  sea-serpent, 


WHITE-MOUNTAIN    SCENERY    AND   THE    PROFILE    HOUSE. 

and  the  distant  outline  broken  by  many  a  tall  ship,  leaning,  still,  against  the  sky.  -.  .  . 
Standing  at  its  mouth,  looking  up  its  sparkling  stream  to  its  source, —  a  silver  cascade 
which  falls  all  the  way  from  the  White  Mountains  to  the  sea, —  and  behold  a  city  on  each 
successive  plateau,  a  busy  colony  of  human  beavers  around  every  fall. " 

The  Name  of  the  State  was  given  by  its  first  proprietor,  Capt.  John  Mason,  for  many 
years  governor  of  South-Sea  Castle,  on  the  coast  of  English  Hampshire  (Hants).  Its  pop- 
ular pet  name  is  THE  GRANITE  STATE,  referring  to  its  noble  rocky  peaks. 

The  Arms  of  New  Hampshire,  adopted  in  1784,  show  a  rising  sun  and  a  ship  on  the 
stocks,  with  American  banners  displayed. 

The  Governors  since  I754havebeen:  Benning  Wentworth,  1754-67;  John  Wentworth, 
1767-75  ;  Meshech  Weare,  1776-85  ;  John  Langdon,  1785-86 ;  John  Sullivan,  1786-8  ;  John 
Langdon,  1788-9;  John  Sullivan,  1789-90;  Josiah  Bartlett,  1790-4;  JohnTaylor  Oilman, 
1794-1805;  John  Langdon,  1805-9;  Jeremiah  Smith,  1809-10;  John  Langdon,  1810-12; 


THE   STATE   OF  NEW  HAMPSHIRE. 


539 


MT. -WASHINGTON 


Wm.  Plumer,  1812-13  and  1816-19;  John 
Taylor  Gilman,  1813-16;  Samuel  Bell, 
1819-23;  Levi  Woodbury,  1823-4;  David 
Lawrence  Morrill,  1824-7;  Benjamin 
Pierce,  1827-28;  John  Bell,  1828-9; 
Matthew  Harvey,  1830-1 ;  Joseph  M. 
Harper,  1831  ;  Samuel  Dinsmoor,  1831-4  ; 
Wm.  .Badger,  1834-6  ;  Isaac  Hill,  1836-9  ; 
John  Page,  1839-42;  Henry  Hubbard, 
1842-4;  John  H.  Steele,  1844-6;  An- 
thony Colby,  1846-7;  Jared  W.  Williams,  1847-9;  Samuel  Dinsmoor,  1849- 
52;  Noah  Martin,  1852-4;  Nathaniel  B.  Baker,  1854-5;  Ralph  Metcalf, 
1855-7;  Wm.  Haile,  1857-9;  Ichabod  Goodwin,  1859-61;  Nathaniel  S.  Berry,  1861-3; 
Joseph  Atherton  Gilmore,  1863-5;  Frederick  Smyth,  1865-7;  Walter  Harriman,  1867-9; 
Onslow  Stearns,  1869-71  ;  James  A.  Weston,  1871-2  and  1874-5;  Ezekiel  A.  Straw,  1872- 
4;  Person  C.  Cheney,  1875-7;  BenJ-  F.  Prescott,  1877-9;  Natt  Head,  1879-81  ;  Chas.  H. 
Bell,  1881-3;  Samuel  W.  Hale,  1883-5  ;  Moody  Currier,  1885-7;  Chas.  H.  Sawyer,  1887-9; 
David  H.  Goodell,  1889-91 ;  Hiram  A.  Tuttle,  1891-3. 

Descriptive. — New  Hampshire  lies  between  Maine  and  Vermont,  with  Massachusetts 

on  the  south,  a  wilderness  fronting  on  Canada, 
and  beaches  facing  the  Atlantic.  Its  middle 
part  is  serrated  by  the  White  Mountains,  cov- 
ering 1,300  square  miles,  in  several  short  ranges, 
largely  clad  with  primeval  forest,  the  main  peaks 
rising  above  the  timber-line,  and  crowned  with 
storm-worn  rocks.  The  magnificent  scenery  of 
this  highland  country  has  for  generations  been 
admired  by  myriads  of  tourists  from  all  over  the 
FRANCONIA  NOTCH,  WHITE  MOUNTAINS.  world.  Several  railways  traverse  its  noble 

notches  ;  and  great  hotels  and  summer-resort  villages,  Bethlehem,  North  Conway,  Jackson, 
Jefferson,  and  Campton,  have  grown  up  in  the  vicinity.  There  are  seven  peaks  above 
5,000  feet  high,  22  above  4,000,  and  scores  of  lesser  elevations.  Mount  Washington,  6,293 
feet  high,  and  overlooking  thousands  of  square  miles,  has  a  carriage-road  ascending  its  huge 
rocky  slopes,  and  a  large  hotel  and  other  buildings  on  its  summit.  The  first  cog-rail  moun- 
tain-railway in  the  world  was  constructed  up  this  peak  in  1868-9.  The  powerful  little 
humpbacked  locomotives  push  trains  up  a  height  of  3, 730  feet  in  a  course  of  less  than  three 
miles,  the  highest  grade  being  13^  inches  in  a  yard.  In  the  Presidential  Range,  "the  Crown 
of  New  England,"  tower  the  majestic  peaks  of 
Mounts  Washington,  Adams,  Jefferson,  Madison, 
Monroe,  Jackson  and  others.  They  were  called  by 
the  Indians  Waumbek  Methna ;  and  by  the  colo- 
nists, who  explored  them  as  early  as  1642, 

The  Crystal  Hills.      The  White-Mountain     [Slkfc       ^__.  tl 

Notch  is  a  wonderful  defile  of  several 
miles  in  length,  cut  deep  through  these 
highlands,  and  giving  passage  to  the  turn- 
pike and  the  Maine  Central  Railroad,  on 
land  to  Montreal  and  the  West.  This 
most  magnificent  scenic  routes  in  America. 


NEWFOUND  LAKE. 


its  way  from  Port- 
forms  one  of  the 
The  Franconia 

Range  culminates  in  Mount  Lafayette,  5,299  feet  high;  and  in  the  Franconia  Notch,  1,200 
feet  above  the  road,  is  the  famous  Profile,  a  massive  stone  face  40  feet  high,  which  has 
figured  in  New-England  art  and  literature  for  nearly  a  century.  Moosilauke  (4,810  feet), 


540 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE    UNITED   STATES, 


ISLES    OF    SHOALS  ',      WHITE    ISLAND. 


Chocorua  (3,508),  Kearsarge  (2,943),  Grand  Monadnock  (3,169),  and  other  outlying 
mountains  are  notable  features  of  the  landscape.  The  beautiful  pastoral  valleys  of  the  Saco, 
Androscoggin  and  Pemigewasset  penetrate  the  great  mountain-mass  for 

\ many  leagues,  affording  natural  avenues  for  railways,  and 

^  jewelled  with  pleasant  hamlets. 

Another  marked  feature  of  New  Hampshire,  and  one 
of  its  foremost  beauties,  is  an  extensive  and  varied  system 
of  lakes,  rich  in  wooded  islets,  and  mirroring  the  £  rests 
of  famous  mountains.  The  foremost  of  these  is  Lake 
Winnepesaukee,  covering  72 
square  miles,  and  adorned  by 
274  islands.  The  Ossipee, 
Sandwich  and  Bel- 
knap  ranges  look  down  on  this  lovely  crystal  sheet. 
Near  by  is  Asquam  Lake,  unrivalled  for  its  mountain- 
guarded  beauty.  Sunapee  (ii  square  miles),  New- 
found (8),  Umbagog  (18),  Ossipee  (7),  Spofford,  Mas- 
coma,  Massabesic,  and  other  lakes  are  popular  resorts 
in  summer.  Sunapee  Lake,  1,100  feet  above  the  sea, 
under  the  forest-clad  peaks  of  Kearsarge  and  Sunapee, 
abounds  in  islands  and  beaches,  summer-villages  and 
camps,  and  a  great  variety  of  valuable  fish. 

The  Connecticut  River,  New  England's  foremost 
stream,  rises  in  a  group  of  lakelets  near  the  Canadian  frontier, 
and  runs  south  for  450  miles  through  a  valley  of  extraordinary 
beauty  and  fertility.  The  Pemigewasset  and  the  Winnepe- 
saukee unite  to  form  the  Merrimack,  which  flows  for  78  miles 
in  New  Hampshire  and  35  in  Mas- 
sachusetts, turning  more  mill  ma- 
chinery than  any  other  river  in  the 
world.  The  Piscataqua  is  a  broad, 
deep  and  swift  estuary,  eleven  miles 

long,  entering  the  sea  at  Portsmouth,  where  it  forms  one  of  the 
best  harbors  on  the  American  coast,  with  40  feet  of  water  at  low 
tide,  and  a  rocky  bottom.  On  the  Maine  side,  at  Kittery,  is  the 
United-States  Navy-Yard.  The  other  notable  streams  are  the 
Upper  and  Lower  Ammonoosuc,  Ashuelot,  Androscoggin,  Con- 

toocook,  Saco,  and  Suncook.  These  rivers  are  mainly  mountain-born,  and  therefore  subject 
to  sudden  floods.  Their  waters  are  singularly  pure,  and  abound  in  salmon,  trout,  bass  and 
other  fish,  millions  of  which  are  distributed  every  year,  by  the  State,  for  development. 
The  Plymouth  and  Sunapee  hatcheries  have  sent 
out  vast  numbers  of  brown,  rainbow  and  Loch- 
Leven  trout,  the  choicest  species  of  the  fish. 
The  State  has  325  fish  and  game  wardens, 
whose  vigilance  has  caused  the  remoter  towns 
to  become  populated  with  deer. 

Broad  expanses  of  primeval  forest  still  en- 
wrap the  lonely  northern  counties  with  great 
pines,  oaks,  birches  and  other  trees.  Bears  and 
wolves  and  moose  roam  through  these  unbroken 
woods,  which  are  rarely  traversed,  save  by  ex- 
plorers and  hunters.  The  lumber  business  has  CONNECTICUT  RIVER,  NEAR  HANOVER. 


•    MANCHESTER: 

AMOSKEAG     FALLS. 

POST-OFFICE. 

SOLDIERS'    AND    SAILORS'    MONUMENT 


ISLES    OF    SHOALS  : 
STAR-ISLAND    CHURCH. 


THE  STATE   OF  NEW  HAMPSHIRE. 


541 


attained  considerable  importance  in  the  north,  and  the  mills  at  Whitefield  and  Zealand, 
Berlin,  Livermore  and  Lancaster  have  many  miles  of  steam-railways,  bringing  out  of  the 
forests  over  40,000,0x30  feet  of  logs  yearly.. 

The  sea-coast  of  18  miles  includes  the  beaches  of  Hampton  and  Rye,  well-known  as 
summer-resorts,  backed  by  the  long  levels  of  the  tidal  marshes.  Six  miles  off-shore,  in 
the  open  sea,  rise  the  rocky  little  Isles  of  Shoals,  discovered  by  Cham  plain  in  1605,  occupied 
by  villages  of  fishermen  for  over 
two  centuries,  and  now  the  seat 
of  large  summer-hotels.  They 
cover  600  acres,  and  partly  per- 
tain to  Maine.  Steamboats  run 
out  hither  several  times  daily, 
in  summer,  from  Portsmouth. 


SUNAPEE   LAKE 


GLEN-ELLIS   FALLS,    WHITE   MOUNTAINS. 


New  Hampshire  has  several 
mineral  springs,  with  attendant 
hotels  and  summer  clientages. 

The  choicest  scenic  localities  amid  the  White  and  Fran- 
coma  Mountains  are  occupied  by  large  and  luxurious  sum- 
mer-hotels, which  are  filled  during  the  summer  by  guests 
from  all  parts  of  the  Union.  None  of  these  delightful 
pleasure-resorts  occupies  a  higher  place  in  the  public  esteem  than  the  famous  old  Profile 
House,  the  largest  summer-hotel  in  New  England,  whose  proprietors,  Taft  &  Greenleaf, 
have  been  connected  with  it  for  30  consecutive  years.  Just  where  the  Franconia  Notch 
reaches  its  northern  end,  and  before  the  road  begins  its  steep  descent  to  the  valley,  there  is  a 
beautiful  little  plateau,  2,000  feet  above  the  sea,  surrounded  on  three  sides  by  the  stupendous 
cliffs  of  Mount  Lafayette  and  Cannon  Mountain.  Here,  between  the  translucent  Echo  Lake 
and  Profile  Lake,  rise  the  white  walls  of  the  Profile  House,  fronting  on  broad  lawns  and 
flanked  by  handsome  cottages.  The  wonderful  Profile,  or  Old  Man  of  the  Mountain,  un- 
doubtedly the  most  remarkable  rock-formation  in  this  country,  if  not  in  the  world,  is  seen 
from  near  the  hotel.  All  the  surrounding  region  abounds  in  charming  drives  and  rambles. 
Nowhere  else  in  the  New-Hampshire  mountains  is  there  such  a  museum  of  unrivalled  curi- 
osities as  that  which  may  be  explored  in  these  two  leagues  of  the  great  Franconian  pass. 

The  Government  includes  a  biennially  elected  'governor  and  council  and  executive 
officers  ;  and  the  General  Court  of  24  senators  and  over  300  representatives.  The  Supreme 
Court  has  seven  justices.  The  State  House,  at  Concord,  was  built  in  1816-9,  and  enlarged 
in  1865.  It  is  in  classic  architecture,  of  Concord  granite,  and  stands  in  a  pleasant  park. 
The  Doric  Hall  contains  the  battle-flags  of  the  volunteer  regiments  of  1861-5.  The  Council 
Chamber  has  portraits  of  all  the  governors  since  1786,  and  there  are  many  large  portraits 
of  Revolutionary  generals  and  other  ancient  worthies.  The  State  Prison  at  Concord  was 
established  in  1812,  and  has  no  convicts.  The  Asylum  for  the  Insane  (founded  in  1842) 
is  also  at  Concord,  and  has  340  inmates.  The  Industrial  School  for  boys  and  girls  is  near 
Manchester.  The  Orphans'  Home  and  .School  of  Industry  occupies  the  ancestral  Webster 

a    farm,  near  Franklin,  and  is  generously  supported 
|    by  private  contributions. 

The  National  Guard  includes  three  regiments 
||    of  infantry.     There  is  also  a  troop  of  cavalry  and 
a  battery.     The  State  camp-ground,  where  these 
troops  are  quartered  and  drilled  for  seven  days 
yearly,  is  on  the  bluffs  opposite  Concord. 

Education.— The  Normal  School,   at   Ply- 
mouth, with  nine  instructors  and  275  students,  is 
NEW  CASTLE  :     LD  wENTwoRTH  MANs.oN.  the  head  of  the  State  school-system.     The  old 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 


district- schools  gave  way,  in  1885,  to  the  town  system,  intended  to 
afford  better  facilities  to  students  in  remote  neighborhoods.  The 
State  spends  over  $700,000  a  year  in  educating  its  young  people. 
Nearly  one  tenth  of  the  children  are  in  Catholic  parochial  schools. 
There  are  also  53  academies,  with  3,112  pupils.  Dartmouth  Col- 
lege, at  Hanover,  on  the  Connecticut  River,  was  founded  in  1 769  by 
the  Rev.  Eleazer  Wheelock,  as  a  school  for  missionaries  and  Indians. 
It  received  44,000  acres  of  land  from  the  Province,  and  large  gifts 
from  English  philanthropists,  among  whom  was  Lord  Dartmouth. 
The  huts  of  green  logs  which  at  first  served  as  the  college-halls  have 
been  replaced  by  ten  buildings,  of  which  Wilson  Hall  and  the  Rollins 
Chapel  are  notable  for  their  beautiful  architecture.  The  College 
Park  covers  34  acres.  Daniel  Webster,  Rufus  Choate,  George 
Ticknor,  George  P.  Marsh,  Salmon  P.  Chase  and  Thaddeus  Stevens 
were  among  the  7,000  graduates.  The  college  has  229  students,  be- 


TERl    sides  67  in  the  Chandler  School  of  Science,  68  in  the  Medical  School 
(founded  in  1797),  10  in  the  Thayer  School  of  Civil  Engineer- 
ing, and  33  in  the  College  of  Agriculture  and  the  Mechanic 
Arts,  which  occupies  a  contiguous  farm  of  360  acres.     One  of 
the  most  attractive  features  in  Hanover  is  the  new  Mary  Hitchcock 
Memorial  Hospital,  erected  in 
1890  by  Hiram  Hitchcock,  of 
New  York. 

Phillips  Exeter  Academy, 
founded   in    1781,   is   one  of 
the  most  noted  and  most  ad- 
mirably   conducted 
college  preparatory 
schools  in  America, 
and  has  graduated 
more  than  6,000  pu- 
pils, including  a  long 
professional      and 
and    325   students, 
elm-lined    campus. 


DARTMOUTH    COLLEGE. 


ROLLINS    CHAPEL. 


list  of  famous  statesmen,  bankers,  and 
business  men.  It  has  ten  instructors 
with  fine  buildings  ranged  along  an 
Two  hundred  and  seventy-one  of  the 
students  come  from  35  outside  States  and  Territories,  besides  a  number  of  foreign  countries. 

The  Robinson  Female  Seminary,  also  at  Exeter,  was  en- 
dowed with  $250,000,  and  opened  in  1867.  St.  Paul's 
School,  two  miles  from  Concord,  is  an  Episcopal  institution 
of  rare  efficiency,  with  a  seven-years'  course,  preparing  boys 
for  college  or  business.  It  was  opened  in  1856.  Chief 
among  its  buildings  is  the  large  and  beautiful  collegiate 
chapel,  in  late  decorated  Gothic,  with  oaken  roof,  stained 
windows,  and  carved  stalls  and  screens.  The  Holderness 
School  for  Boys,  another  Episcopal  institution  of  high  rank, 
has  its  seat  near  Plymouth,  in  the  idyllic  Pemigewasset  Val- 
ley. The  New-Hampshire  Conference  Seminary  and  Female 
College  is  a  Methodist  school,  established  in  1845,  at  Tilton, 
eighteen  miles  from  Concord.  There  are  good  academies  at 
New  Hampton,  New  Ipswich  (Appleton),  West  Lebanon 
(Tilden),  Mont  Vernon,  Meriden  (Kimball  Union),  Atkin- 
son, Northwood,  New  London,  Wolfeborough,  and  other  HANOVER  :  FACULTY  AVENUE. 


THE  STATE   OF  NEW  HAMPSHIRE. 


543 


EXETER  :      PHILLIPS    EXETER    ACADEMY. 


HANOVER  I      HITCHCOCK    MEMORIAL 


villages.  The  chief  public  libraries  are  those  of  Dart- 
mouth College,  65,000  volumes;  Manchester  City  Li- 
brary, 30,000;  State  Library,  20,000;  Portsmouth 
Athenaeum,  16,000;  Concord  Public  Library,  12,000; 
and  the  New-Hampshire  Historical  Society,  10,600. 

The  newspapers  of  New  Hampshire  include  1 1  dailies 
and  86  weeklies.  There  are  13  monthlies.  The  Gazette, 
of  Portsmouth,  was  established  in  1756. 

Religious. — The  foremost  religious  denomination 
is  the  Congregational,  the  old  historic  church  of  New 
England,  which  has  here  nearly  200  churches  and  20,  ooo 
members.  There  are  no  Methodist  churches,  with  13,000  members.  The  Baptists  and  the 
Free  Baptists  have  each  nearly  9,000  members.  The  Episcopal  diocese  of  New  Hampshire 
numbers  28  parishes,  with  2,000  communi-. 
cants.  The  Catholic  church  has  more  ad- 
herents than  any  one  of  the  Protestant 
denominations,  largely  among  the  French- 
Canadians  and  the  Irish,  in  the  manufac- 
turing cities.  There  are  Shaker  communi- 
ties at  Canterbury  and  Enfield. 

Chief  Cities. — Manchester  avails  it- 
self of  the  enormous  water-power  of  the 
Amoskeag  Falls,  on  the  Merrimack,  and  yearly  manufactures  70,000  bales  of  cotton  into 
cloth.  Concord  is  a  pleasant  little  city  on  the  Merrimack,  with  handsome  public  buildings. 
Nashua,  also  on  the  Merrimack,  is  an  important  manufacturing  city  and  railroad  centre. 
Portsmouth,  the  only  sea-port  of  the  State,  and  for  nearly  a  century  its  capital,  abounds  in 
quaint  old  buildings  and  interesting  traditions,  and  is  one  of  the  most  delight- 
ful cities  on  the  Atlantic  coast.  Dover,  ten  miles  above,  on  the 
Cocheco,  has  several  large  factories. 

The  Railroads  had  92  miles  of  track  in  1844. 
Since  that  date  upwards  of  1,200  miles  have  been  built, 
at  a  cost  of  $35,000,000.     The  Boston  &  Maine  Rail- 
road crosses  the  seaboard  section  of  the  State  with 
several  lines,  reaching  also  inland  to  Lake  Winnepe- 
saukee  and  the  White  Mountains,  and  through    the 
pleasant    hill-country    towards    Dublin    and    Keene. 
The  route  from  Boston  to  Montreal  ascends  the  Merri- 
CONCORD  ;  ST. -PAUL'S  SCHOOL  CHAPEL.         mack  Valley  to  Franklin,  and  then  diverges  towards 
Vermont.      The  Maine  Central  line,  from  Portland  to  Lake  Champlain,  traverses  the  heart 
of  the  White  Mountains ;  and  the  Grand  Trunk  line,  from  Portland  to  Montreal,  winds 
through  the  mountain-land  by  the  Androscoggin  Valley. 

The  railway  up  Mount  Washington  was  the  first  mountain-railway  in  the  world,  and  is  a 
wonderful  triumph  of  engineering.  The  line  of  the  Maine  Central  Railway,  through  the 
Notch,  is  carried  along  galleries  cut  into  the  sides  of  the  mountains,  at 
a  vast  elevation  above  the  valley,  and  commands  amazing  views  of  the 
Presidential  Range.  The  most  impressive  of 
these  is  from  near  the  Frankenstein  Trestle, 
whence  the  majestic  Mount  Washington  is  seen 
at  the  head  of  the  lonely  glen.  The  Maine  Cen- 
tral finished  a  new  line  in  1891,  from  near  the 
Twin-Mountain  House  and  Whitefield,  to  the 
lofty  summer-resort  village  of  Jefferson,  and  CONCORD  :  RAILWAY  STATION. 


544 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 


thence  northward  across  the  Grand  Trunk  route, 
and  through  the  Upper  Coos  country,  connecting 
with  the  line  for  Quebec.  The  railway  bridges 
over  Sugar  River  and  Salmon-Falls  River  are 
notable  constructions  of  the  Boston  Bridge  Works. 
Commerce. — The  maritime  commerce  of 
New  Hampshire,  centering  at  Portsmouth,  in 
ancient  times  included  large  shipments  of  lumber 
and  fish  to  England  and  the  West  Indies,  but 
the  wars  of  1776  and  1812  destroyed  this  indus- 
try. The  State  has  coasting  and  fishing  fleets  and 
25  small  steamboats. 

The  Finances  of  New  Hampshire  stand  in  a 
favorable  condition,  the  yearly  treasury  receipts  exceed  $1,300,000,  of  which  $500,000  comes 
from  the  State  tax  levy  assessed  upon  the  towns,  $540,000  from  the  tax  placed  upon  all 
savings-banks  deposits,  and  $240,000  from  the  railroad  tax.  The  average  rate  of  local  taxa- 
tion is  $1.48  on  $100.  According  to  the  new  census  the  net  debt  of  the  State  has  decreased 
from  $3,574,846  in  1880  to  $2,639,707  in  1890.  Among  the 
financial  institutions  of  New  Hampshire,  the  First  National 
Bank  of  Concord  occupies  the  position  at  the  head  of  the  list. 
Chartered  in  1864  with  a  capital  of  $150,000,  it  has  always 
paid  good  dividends  to  its  stockholders,  and  accumulated  dur- 
ing the  first  20  years  of  its  existence  a  surplus  equal  to  its 
capital.  Under  the  prudent  and  conservative  management  of 
its  officers,  and  especially  the  well-directed  efforts  of  William 
F.  Thayer,  the  president  of  the  bank,  it  promises  long  before 
the  expiration  of  its  charter  to  again  double  the  market-value 
of  its  stock.  The  bank  enjoys  the  business  of  corporations 
and  individuals  who  seek  the  services  of  a  safe  and  reliable  de- 
pository, and  also  markets  a  choice  line  of  investment  securities 
for  investors.  The  First  National  Bank  outgrew  its  original 
building,  and  in  1891  occupied  new  and  more  commodious  quarters,  better  adapted  to  its 
needs  and  the  convenience  of  its  customers. 

Insurance  was  the  subject  of  State  legislation  in  1885,  as  a  result  of  which  58  outside 
companies  concertedly  withdrew  from  business  here,  the  State  aiming 
to  compel  the  companies  to  pay  the  full  amount  insured  under  all  policies 
in  case  of  total  loss,  regardless  of  the  value  of  the  property.  Their  risks 
were  largely  taken  by  home  companies,  which  built  up  a  valuable  local 
business,  insuring  over  $50,000,000  worth  of  property  in  a  single  year. 
The  representative  insurance  corporation  in  this  State  is  the  New- 
Hampshire  Fire-Insurance  Company,  under  the  presidency  of  ex-Gov- 
ernor James  A.  Weston,  and  secretaryship  of  John  C.  French,  and 
holding  a  foremost  rank  among  the  strong,  solid  and  successful  Ameri- 
can companies.  The  headquarters  is  in  the  company's  own  fire-proof 
building  at  Manchester ;  and  agencies  are  in  successful  operation  in 
many  cities  of  the  Middle  and  Western  States.  The  liabilities  are  in 
small  risks,  well  scattered ;  and  the  assets  rest  in  undoubted  securities, 
and  real-estate  mortgages,  guarded  by  directors  of  acknowledged  ability 
and  integrity,  and  including  some  of  the  foremost  men  of  the  State. 
This  company  was  incorporated  in  1869,  and  has  a  capital  of  $600,000, 
gross  assets  of  $1,500,000,  and  a  surplus,  as  regards  policy-holders, 
N.  H.  FIRE-INSURANCE  co.  exceeding  $i,ooo,ooo.  It  has  paid  over  $3,000,000  in  losses.  The 


CONCORD  :     FIRST    NATIONAL    BANK. 


THE  STATE   OF  NEW  HAMPSHIRE. 

risks  in  force  amount  to  about  $75,000,000.  The 
singular  position  assumed  by  this  State  with  re- 
gard to  outside  insurance  companies,  differing  so 
far  from  the  conduct  of  other  commonwealths, 
has  been  rightly  questioned,,  especially  so  as  she 
has  no  other  solid  corporation  like  the  New- Hamp- 
shire Fire-Insurance  Company,  to  afford  her  citi- 
zens absolute  protection  against  loss  by  fire. 
There  are  now  12  stock  fire-insurance  companies, 
and  10  cash-mutual  and  25  assessment-mutual  SALMON-FALLS  BRIDGE. 

companies,  with  $71,000,000  of  risks  in  force  in  the  State,  and  $104,000,000  outside.  The 
factory-mutuals  protect  $42,000,000,  and  $8,000,000  remain  on  unexpired  outside  policies. 
Agriculture  is  not  at  its  best  in  this  land  of  eight  cold  months.  The  high  sandy  plains 
along  the  Merrimack,  and  some  of  the  lofty  uplands,  are  unfavorable  for  farmers,  but  the 
alluvial  valleys  of  the  Connecticut  and  other  streams  produce  good  crops.  Of  late  years 
much  attention  has  been  paid  to  dairy  farming,  and  1,500,000  pounds  of  butter  are  sent  out 
from  the  creameries  annually.  The  breeding  of  fine  horses  and  cattle  is  a  feature  of  recent 
introduction.  One  hundred  and  twenty-two  granges  are  in  operation,  with  8,500  members. 
There  are  usually  three  or  four  months  of  sleighing,  with  deep  and  fructifying  snows, 
especially  in  the  north,  and  a  clear,  bracing  air.  The  month  of  June  is  full  of  beauty, 
and  adorns  the  country  with  floral  splendor.  The  Indian  summer,  in  September  and  October, 
is  a  delightful  period  of  mild  temperature  and  sweet  air,  with  bright  and  luminous  skies. 

Manufactures  employ  a  capital  of  above  $50,000,000,  and  pay  yearly  wages  to  the 
amount  of  $15,000,000.  The  first  cotton-mill  dates  from  1804,  and  since  that  time  the 
industry  has  developed  amazingly.  Between  1850  and  1890  the  invested  capital  increased 
300  per  cent.,  and  the  value  of  the  yearly  product  increased  320  per  cent.  There  are  great 
mills  at  Manchester,  Nashua,  Dover,  Laconia,  Suncook  and  other  towns,  all  of  which  also 
have  prosperous  and  varied  manufacturing  interests. 

The  Amoskeag  Manufacturing  Company  at  Manchester,  the  largest  cotton-manufac- 
turing company  in  New  England,  com- 
menced operations  about  50  years  ago. 

Jt  has  twelve  large  and  complete  mills, 
besides  dye-houses,  store-houses,  boiler- 
houses,  machine-shop,  and  foundry,  cov- 
ering over  60  acres  of  floor-space.  The 
mills  give  employment  to  more  than  7,000 
people,  and  have  a  yearly  pay-roll  of  nearly  $3,  - 
000,000.  They  contain  250,000  spindles  and 
9,000  looms,  and  produce  daily  300,000  yards  of 
cloth,  during  the  ten  hours  that  the  mills  run 
daily.  These  fabrics  are  sent  to  all  parts  of  the 
Republic,  and  to  many  remote  lands  beyond  the 
ocean.  To  make  this  quantity  of  cloth  requires 
900,000  miles  of  yarn  daily,  and  consumes  60,000  bales  of  cotton  a  year.  Over  700  electric 
lights  are  employed  in  lighting  the  mills.  The  48  boilers  burn  20,000  tons  of  coal  a  year 
in  furnishing  steam.  The  chimney  used  with  these  boilers  is  264  feet  high.  The  leading 
products  of  the  Amoskeag  Company,  which  have  an  international  reputation,  are  ginghams, 
tickings  of  all  grades  and  qualities,  Denims,  shirtings  and  cotton  flannels.  The  A  C  A 
tickings  and  the  blue  Denims  have  been  standard  goods  all  through  the  United  States  for 
more  than  half  a  century,  and  the  Denims  have  also  been  largely  exported  to  the  West 
Indies.  The  manufacture  of  ginghams  was  commenced  in  1867  by  the  Amoskeag  Com- 
pany, which  is  now  the  largest  producer  of  these  goods  in  the  country.  They  are  made  in 


MANCHESTER:    AMOSKEAG  MANUFACTURING  COMPANY. 


546  KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED  STATES. 

a  large  variety  of  styles  and  coloring,  about  5,000  new  patterns  being  brought  out  yearly. 
The  Amoskeag  Company,  of  which  Thomas  Jefferson  Coolidge  has  been  treasurer  since 
1876,  has  a  capital  of  $4,000,000,  with  a  value  of  about  $8,500,000,  and  is  one  of  the 
greatest  and  most  successful  industrial  enterprises  in  all  New  England. 

One  of  the  bright  and  busy  manufacturing  towns  in  New  Hampshire  is  Great  Falls,  in 


GREAT   FALLS  :    THE  GREAT-FALLS   MANUFACTURING   COMPANY. 

a  romantic  situation  on  the  Salmon-Falls  River.  When  the  Great-Falls  Manufacturing 
Company  received  its  charter,  and  began  operations,  in  1823,  the  only  buildings  were  a  saw- 
mill, a  grist-mill  and  two  houses.  Since  then,  a  town  of  several  thousand  inhabitants  has 
risen  here,  and  the  enormous  mills  front  a  wide  area  of  carefully  kept  lawns  and  groves. 
The  buildings  extend  nearly  two  thirds  of  a  mile  in  length,  and  are  substantially  built  of 
brick.  The  machinery  is  run  by  water-power.  Excepting  only  the  Amoskeag  Company, 
the  Great-Falls  Manufacturing  Company  have  the  largest  cotton-mills  in  New  Hampshire. 
The  paid-in  capital  is  $1,500,000;  and  the  mills  contain  126,000  spindles  and  3,000  looms, 
employing  1,600  persons,  and  producing  every  year  30,000,000  yards  of  sheeting,  valued  at 
$2,000,000.  The  present  treasurer  is  J.  Howard  Nichols.  Office,  Exchange  Building, 
Boston.  The  company's  goods  are  sold  by  Minot,  Hooper  &  Co.,  of  Boston  and  New  York. 
The  Cocheco  Manufacturing  Company  is  located  in  the  city  of  Dover,  Strafford  County, 
on  the  Cocheco  River,  whence  it  derives  a  portion  of  its  power.  It  succeeded  the  Dover 
Manufacturing  Company,  which  was  organized  in  1812,  the  charter  being  drawn  up  by 
Daniel  Webster  ;  and  was  the  parent  of  the  surrounding  cotton-factories  in  New  Hampshire 
and  Maine,  as  Waltham  in  Massachusetts  was  of  those  in  Lowell  and  Lawrence.  In  1827 
Eben  Francis,  Wm.  Appleton,  Amos  Getting,  and  others  of  Boston,  organized  the  present 
corporation,  continuing  the  manufacture  of  yarns  and  print-cloths,  and  also  established  the 
print  works  one  of  the  first  in  the  country.  The  plant  has  been  gradually  increased  and 
improved  until  now  it  turns  out  about  50,000,000  yards  of  printed  cotton  goods,  and 

manufactures  30,000,000  yards  of 
gray  cloths  annually.  The  product 
was  for  many  years  confined  to  mad- 
der prints,  which  are  well  known 
throughout  the  Union,  but  it  is  now 
as  varied  as  that  of  any  print  works. 
The  capital  stock  is  $1,500,000,  and 
1,650  operatives  find  employment, 
with  an  annual  pay  roll  of  $740,000. 
Lawrence  &  Co.  of  Boston,  New 
York,  and  Philadelphia  are  the  sell- 
ing  agents  for  the  products  of  the 
Cocheco  Mills. 

One  of  the  most  interesting  of  American  industrial  establishments  is  the  Abbot-Down- 
ing Company,  whose  Concord  coaches  and  carriages  are  known  the  world  over  for  their 
excellent  materials  and  thorough  construction.  The  output  of  these  works  includes  light 
and  heavy  express-wagons  and  trucks,  coaches  and  stages  of  various  kinds,  hotel  omnibuses, 
ambulances,  hook-and-ladder  trucks,  and  other  vehicles.  This  great  industry  was  founded 


DOVER  :     THE    COCHECO    MANUFACTURING    COMPAN1 


CONCORD  :     THE    ABBOT-DOWNING   CO. 


THE  STATE  OF  NEW  HAMPSHIRE. 

by  Lewis  Downing  of  Lexington,  Mass.,  who 
opened  a  small  wheelwright  shop  at  Concord, 
in  1813.  In  1826  he  secured  the  services  of  J. 
Stephens  Abbot,,  a  journeyman  coach-body- 
maker  from  Salem,  with  whom,  two  years  later, 
he  organized  the  copartnership  of  Downing  & 
Abbot.  In  1847  tney  separated,  and  formed  in- 
dependent firms  ;  and  in  1865  they  were  reunited 
as  Abbot,  Downing  &  Co.,  which  absorbed  a 
large  rival  house  in  1873  and  became  the  Abbot- 
Downing  Company.  Their  wagons  are  in  use  on 
the  plains  of  Australia,  the  rural  roads  of  Japan, 
and  amid  the  Rocky  Mountains,  as  well  as  in  all 
parts  of  the  Atlantic  States.  The  first  coaches  in  California  and  Australia  came  from  this 
ancient  establishment,  and  the  great  twelve-horse  coaches  running  to  the  Transvaal  gold- 
fields,  in  South- Africa,  are  made  here.  The  company  employs  300  men,  and  the  works  cover 
five  acres  of  ground.  The  manifold  operations  of  this  corporation  reach  every  continent,  and 
are  ably  directed  by  Lewis  Downing,  Jr.,  president,  and  Edward  A.  Abbot,  treasurer. 

Parallel  with  the  great  coach-building  industry  of 
Concord  has  risen  the  closely  related  business  of  har- 
ness-making, which  was  brought  to  perfection  by  the 
cumulative  skill  of  generations  of  intelligent  work- 
men. Foremost  in  this  trade  stands  the  corporation 
of  James  R.  Hill  &  Co.,  which  was  founded  in  1840 
by  Mr.  Hill,  and  has  for  many  years  been  under  the 
presidency  and  general  management  of  George  H. 
Emery.  In  their  spacious  works  nearly  300  men  are 
employed  in  making  the  well-known  "Concord  Har- 
ness," for  freight  and  express  wagons,  coaches  and 
CONCORD  :  JAMES  R.  HILL  HARNESS  co.  carriages,  and  all  manner  of  uses  for  business  and 

pleasure  driving.  There  is  hardly  a  region  in  the  world  where  their  product  is  not  used ; 
and  their  awards  of  merit,  at  the  Philadelphia,  Sydney,  Melbourne  and  other  expositions  con- 
tain the  most  distinguished  compliments.  The  chief  traits  of  excellence  are  the  sensitively 
careful  choice  of  leather,  the  superior  grade  of  workmanship  in  making,  and  the  intelligent 
adaptation  of  the  harness  to  every  purpose. 

Paper-making  has  always  been  one  of  the  prominent  and  successful  industries  of  New 
England,  whose  exquisite  products  in  the  way  of 
surface-coated  goods  and  cardboards  have  driven 
European  goods  out  of  the  American  market.  The 
only  New-Hampshire  corporation  in  this  line  of 
labor  is  the  Nashua  Card  &  Glazed  Paper  Com- 
pany, whose  handsome  and  spacious  new  factory  is 
stocked  with  a  great  variety  of  costly  improved  and 
patented  machinery.  The  yearly  product  is  above 
10,000,000  pounds  of  cardboard  and  glazed  papers, 
lithographic  board  and  paper;  and  at  times  the  de- 
mand for  these  articles  is  so  great  that  the  works 
are  compelled  to  run  at  night.  The  operations  of 
mixing  and  applying  colors,  by  hand  or  machinery,  are  done  with  marvelous  precision  ; 
and  all  the  details  of  the  manufacture  are  carried  forward  with  equal  accuracy  and  trained 
skill.  The  mill  is  lighted  by  electricity  and  heated  by  steam.  The  Nashua  Card  and 
Glazed  Paper  Company's  trade  is  national  in  its  extensive  line  of  customers. 


NASHUA  I    NASHUA   CARD    &    GLAZED    PAPER    CO. 


548 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


NASHUA  :     WHITE-MOUNTAIN    FREEZER    CO. 


CONCORD  I     INSANE   ASYLUM. 


An  interesting  industry,  and  one  especially  appro- 
priate to  this  cool  northern  land,  is  represented  by  the 
White-Mountain  Freezer  Company,  the  foremost  con- 
cern in  this  industry  in  the  United  States,  whose  ex- 
tensive works  are  at  Nashua,  a  pleasant  city  on  the 
Merrimack  River,  about  40  miles  northwest  of  Boston. 
The  plant  covers  five  acres,  with  several  ranges  of 
buildings,  convenient  to  lines  of  railway  track ;  and 
a  large  force  of  skilled  workmen  are  constantly  em- 
ployed in  the  manufacture  of  this  popular  freezer. 
The  goods  are  sold  at  all  the  principal  cities  of  this  country,  and  thousands  are  exported 
annually.  The  features  of  especial  merit  are :  A  covered  gearing ;  heavy  waterproof 
tubs ;  cans  of  best  tin-plate  j  and  beaters  of  malleable  iron  and  tinned,  whereby  no 
zinc  surfaces  are  in  contact  with  the  cream,  thus  avoiding  the  danger  of  zinc  poison  so 
common  by  using  freezers  having  galvanized  —  (zinc-coated) — dashers.  Above  all,  the 
White-Mountain  is  the  only 
freezer  in  the  world  having  the 
triple  motion,  with  which  a  finer, 
smoother  cream  is  produced  than 
in  any  other  machine  ever  in- 
vented. 

Minerals. — The  Franconia- 
Iron  Works  began  operations  in 
1811,  but  have  been  closed  for 
many  years.  Gold  has  been  mined 
at  Lisbon,  tin  at  Jackson,  lead  at  Shelburne,  zinc  at  Madison,  copper  at  Lyman,  iron  at  Bar- 
tlett  and  Tamworth,  and  graphite  at  Nelson,  in  small  quantities.  The  Grafton  mica, 
Lebanon  slate,  Acworth  feldspar,  East-Haverhill  lime,  and  Francestown  soapstone  have 

been  quarried  for  many  years.  Over  I ,  ooo 
men  are  engaged  in  the  granite-quarries, 
nearly  half  of  them  near  Concord,  whose 
handsome  fine-grained  and  light-colored 
stone  is  used  in  all  the  Atlantic  cities. 

With  its  many  attractions  of  moun- 
tains, lakes  and  sea-coast,  and  its  cool 
northern  summers,  this  State  has  become 
a  vernal  pleasure-park  for  myriads  of 
vacation-tourists.  In  this  regard,  rather 
than  for  the  majesty  of  its  scenery  (now 
that  Wyoming  and  Colorado  are  so  accessible),  New  Hampshire  merits  its  old  title  of  "the 
Switzerland  of  America."  The  favorite  season  is  July,  August  and  September,  though 
June  and  October  are  also  included  in  the  pleasure-time.  Many  hundreds  of  farmers' 
houses  are  kept  open  for  boarders,  and  the  amount 
spent  each  year  by  summer-visitors  is  above  $4,- 
ooo,  coo. 

"  Land  of  the  cliff,  the  stream,  the  pine, 
Blessing,  and  honor,  and  peace  be  thine  ! 
Still  may  the  giant  mountains  rise, 
Lifting  their  snows  to  the  blue  of  June, 
And  the  south  wind  breathe  its  tenderest  sighs, 
Over  thy  fields  in  the  harvest  moon  " 


GORHAM  :    GATEWAY    TO   THE   WHITE    MOUNTAINS. 


—  EDNA  DEAN  PROCTOR. 


MOUNT   WASHINGTON,  FROM    MAINE   CENTRAL   R.   R. 


Population,  in  1860, 


672,035 
906,096 
1,131,116 
1,092,017 
39,099 
009,416 
221,700 
559,922 


The   first    European    to 

look  upon    the  low   sandy 

shores  of  New    Jersey  was 

Henry  Hudson,  whose  little 

ship  Half-Moon  cast  anchor 

inside  of    Sandy  Hook,  in 

1609.     By  virtue  of  his  dis- 
coveries, patronized  by  the 

Dutch  East  -  India  Com- 
pany, the  people  of  the  Netherlands  laid  claim  to  a  vast 
and  scarcely  denned  tract  of  land,  embracing  the  eastern 
portion  of  New  York,  and  all  of  New  Jersey.  Incited  by 
the  obtaining  of  so  valuable  a  possession,  colonies  were  sent 
from  Holland,  and  within  a  decade  settlements  arose  in  the 
vicinity  of  Jersey  City  (then  called  Bergen),  the  main  trad- 
ing-post being  on  the  site  of  New  York,  At  about  the 
same  time,  Godyn  and  Bloemart  purchased  Cape  May  from 
the  Indians.  Gustavus  Adolphus,  King  of  Sweden,  desir- 
ing to  found  a  New  Sweden  in  the  western  world,  also  sent 
colonies  to  Delaware.  Some  of  these  adventurers  passed 
over  into  West  Jersey,  occupying  territory  claimed  by  the 
Dutch.  This  action  led  to  a  series  of  disputes,  and  finally 
Gov.  Stuyvesant  appeared  in  the  Delaware,  and  secured  the 
submission  of  the  Swedes,  in  1655. 

For  years  all  this  territory,  the  Dutch  Bergen,  the  pat- 
roonship  of  Cape  May,  and  New  Sweden  alike,  had  been 
claimed  by  the  English,  by  right  of  Cabot's  discovery,  by 
Ralegh's  patent,  and  by  the  patents  of  the  London  and 
Plymouth  companies,  not  to  mention  Ployden's  more  or 
less  fabulous  expedition  and  the  claims  of  a  few  New-Eng- 
landers  on  the  Delaware.  So,  in  1664,  King  Charles 
granted  to  the  Duke  of  York  a  great  tract  of  land,  from 
Cape  May  to  Nantucket,theDuke,in  turn,  granting  New  Jer- 
sey to  Lord  John  Berkeley  and  Sir  George  Carteret,  giving 

them  the  absolute  estate  and  title  to  the  land,  and  also  the  power  to  rule  and  make  laws. 
Philip  Carteret  was  the  first  governor,  and  named  the  capital  Elizabeth,  after  the  wife  of  Sir 
George  Carteret.  The  settlers  at  Newark  were  Connecticut  Puritans.  A  few  years  later, 


Settled  at Bergen. 

Settled  in 1627 

Founded  by    ...      Dutchmen. 
One  of  the  original  13  States. 


'opul 

In  1870, 

In  1880 

White,      .     .     . 

Colored,   .     .    . 

American-born, 

Foreign-born,   . 

Males       ...  ___ 

Females, 571,194 

In  1890  (U.  S.  census),  .  1,444,933 
Population  to  the  square  mile,  151.7 
Voting  Population,  .  .  .  300,635 

Vote  for  Harrison  (1888),       144,344 

Vote  for  Cleveland  (1888),     151,493 

Net  Public  Debt o 

Assessed  Valuation  of 

Property  (1890),  .  .  $688,000,000 
Area  (square  miles),  .  .  .  7,815 
U.  S.  Representatives  (in  1893),  8 
Militia  (Disciplined),  .  .  4,295 

Counties, 21 

Post-offices, 859 

Railroads  (miles),  ....  2,047 
Vessels, 1,142 

Tonnage, 91,996 

Manufactures  (yearly),    $254,375,236 

Operatives 126,038 

Yearly  Wages,  .  .  .  $46,083,045 
Farm  Land  (in  acres),  .  2,929,773 

Farm-Land  Values,       $190,895,833 

Farm  Products  (yearly)  $29,650,756 
Public  Schools,  Average 

Daily  Attendance,  .     .     .     135.187 

Newspapers, 353 

Latitude,  38°55'5i"  to  4i°2i'i9"  N. 
Longjtude,  73°53/5i"  to  7.S°33/3"  w- 
Temperature,  .  .  .  — iostoioi° 
Mean  Temperature  (Trenton),  53° 

TEN  CHIEF  CITIES  AND  THEIR   POP- 
ULATIONS (CENSUS  OF  1890). 

.  181,830 
.  163,003 

•son, 78,347 

Camden 58,313 

Trenton 57,458 

Hoboken 43,648 

Elizabeth, 37,764 

Bayonne, 19,033 

Orange 18,844 

New  Brunswick 18,603 


Newark, 
Jersey  City, 
Peters 


55° 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED  STATES. 


MORRISTOWN 
MOUNT    HOPE 


WASHINGTON'S    HEADQUARTERS. 


the  proprietaries  divided  their  principality  on  a  line  from  Little  Egg  Harbor  to  the  Dela- 
ware (below  Burlington),  East  Jersey  pertaining  to  Carteret,  and  West  Jersey  to  Berkeley. 
Getting  little  gain  and  much  contention  out  of  his  half,  the  latter  sold  it  in  1674  to  a  syn- 
dicate of  Quakers  for  ^1,000 ;  and  numbers  of  these  friends  of  peace  came  over  from  Eng- 
land and  Scotland,  and  settled  about  Salem  and  Bordentown,  and  subsequently  in  East 
Jersey.  In  1682,  after  Sir  George  Carteret  died,  William  Penn  and  his  Quaker 
friends  bought  East  Jersey,  and  it  became  a  refuge  for  the  oppressed 
of  their  sect.  The  troubles  in  the  local  government  finally*  con- 
strained the  proprietaries  to  surrender  their  sovereign  rights  to 
Queen  Anne ;  and  Lord  Cornbury  in  1 702  became  Governor  of 
New  York  and  New  Jersey,  each  Province  having  a 
separate  assembly.  In  1738  New  Jersey  secured  a 
separate  administration  ;  and  its  last  royal  Governor 
was  William  Franklin,  the  son  of  Benjamin  Franklin. 
Although  remote  from  the  scene  of  hostilities,  and 
hampered  with  a  large  Quaker  population,  New 
Jersey  furnished  for  each  of  the  twelve  colonial 
campaigns  against  the  French  and  Indians  from  500 
to  1,000  soldiers,  whose  blue  uniforms  gave  rise  to  the  name  "Jersey  Blues,"  especially 
applied  to  the  battalion  serving  in  King  George's  War  (1745-8). 

This  lowland  Belgium  between  the  capital  of  the  United  States  and  the  headquarters  of 
British  military  power  in  America  naturally  became  the  scene  of  some  of  the  chief  cam- 
paigns of  the  Revolution.  But  one  colony  suffered  as  much  in  the  war,  yet  New  Jersey 
sent  10,726  soldiers  into  the  Continental  Line,  besides  raising  large  militia  forces,  which  at 
times  formed  the  chief  strength  of  the  patriot  army.  On  Christmas  night,  1776,  Washington 
with  2,400  men  and  20  guns  crossed  the  Delaware  in  a  wild  storm  of  sleet  and  snow,  and 
through  the  floating  ice,  and  at  daylight  surprised  the  1,200  Hessian  troops  in  garrison  at 
Trenton,  capturing  918  men  and  the  colors  of  three  German  battalions.  A  few  days  later, 
Washington  skilfully  evaded  Lord  Cornwallis,  and  defeated  the  1 7th,  4Oth,  and  55th  British 
regiments  at  Princeton,  bombarding  and  taking  the  college,  then  held  by  the  enemy,  and  cap- 
turing the  Royal  artillery,  and  then  safely  retiring  to  the  hill-country  about  Morristown.  Fred- 
erick the  Great  pronounced  Washington's  Trenton-Princeton  campaign  "the  most  brilliant 
in  the  annals  of  military  achievements. "  In  1777  Fort  Mercer,  at  Red  Bank  (on  the  Dela- 
ware), garrisoned  by  the  1st  and  2d  Rhode-Island  regiments,  was  bombarded  by  Count 
Donop,  who  led  1,200  Hessian  infantry  to  storm  the  works,  and  suffered  defeat,  losing 
his  own  life  and  the  lives  of  400  of  his  men.  At  the  same  time,  the  brave  Rhode-Islanders 
beat  off  and  partly  destroyed  a  British  fleet  on  the  river.  The  battle  of  Monmouth,  June 
28,  1778,  was  caused  by  Lafayette,  Wayne  and  Lee  attacking  the  rear-guard  of  Sir  Henry 
Clinton's  army,  retreating  to  New  York.  The  American  van  suffered  rout,  but  the  British 
grenadiers  gave  way  before  Knox's  batteries  and  Wayne's  riflemen.  An  imposing  granite 
monument,  ornamented  with  bronze  bas-reliefs,  was  erected  on  the  battlefield  in  1884.  The 
cantonments  of  the  army  in  the  winter  of  1779-80 
were  at  Morristown,  and  the  house  then  occupied  by 
Gen.  Washington  and  his  wife  is  now  sacredly  pre- 
served, as  public  property.  The  ancient  boards  of 
proprietors  of  East  Jersey  and  West  Jersey  retain 
their  proprietary  headquarters  at  Perth  Amboy 
and  Burlington, 

There  were  a  dozen  or  more  tribes  of  Indians  in 
New  Jersey  —  those  north  of  the  Raritan  being  of 
the  Minsi  Delawares,  and  those  south  of  the  Raritan 
pertaining  to  the  Delawares.  They  were  treated 


BARNEGAT    LIGHT. 


THE  STATE   OF  NEW  JERSEY. 


551 


WOODBURY I 
OLD  COURT  HOUSE. 


with  justice,and  so  the  province  escaped  the  bitter  Indian  wars  that  devastated  other  regions. 
The  last  remnants  of  these  aboriginal  tribes  left  the  State  in  1802,  and  moved  to  Oneida 
Lake,  and  subsequently  to  the  shores  of  Lake  Michigan.  In  1832,  being  then  reduced  to  40 
persons,  they  sold  their  reserved  rights  of  hunting  and  fishing  in  unenclosed  New- Jersey 
1  lands,  to  the  State  Legislature,  and  so  disappeared  from  history. 

Slavery  was  one  of  the  institutions  of  the  Jerseys  for  over  a 
century,  and  the  Africans  were  usually  immured  at  Perth  Amboy 
when  first  landed  from  the  slave-ships.  In  1820  an  act  was  passed 
giving  freedom  to  all  children  born  of  slave-parents,  after  certain 
dates,  and  by  1840  there  were  but  674  slaves  remaining,  although 
in  1800  there  had  been  12,422. 

The  Constitution  of  1776  allowed  universal  suffrage,  which  was 
practiced  until  1807,  women  voting  whenever  they  chose. 

During  the  civil  war,  New  Jersey  sent  into  the  National  army 
and  navy  88,305  men,  being  10,057  in  excess  of  her  quota,  and 
within  10,501  of  her  entire  militia.     They  were  among  the  bravest 
and  best  disciplined  troops  in  the  army. 
The  State  is  represented  in  the  National  Gallery  of  Statues  at  Washington  by  a  marble 
statue  of  Richard  Stockton,  a  signer  of  the  Declaration  of  Independence,  and  a  bronze  statue 
of  Gen.  Philip  Kearny,  one  of  the  most  gallant  generals  in  the  Secession  War. 

The  Name  of  the  State,  Nova  Casarea,  or  New  Jersey,  commemorates  the  gallant 
defence  of  the  Isle  of  Jersey,  in  the  English  Channel,  by  Sir  George  Carteret,  who  beat 
off  the  Parliamentary  forces  during  the  civil  war.  New  Jersey  is  sometimes  called  THE 
GARDEN  STATE,  on  account  of  the  large  variety  of  its 
floral  and  agricultural  products.  Joseph  Bonaparte,  a 
Corsican  lawyer,  was  made  by  his  younger  brother, 
Napoleon  Bonaparte,  King  of  '  Naples  ( 1 806-8)  and 
then  King  of  Spain  (1808-13).  After  Waterloo,  he 
fled  to  America,  and  bought  an  estate  of  1,400  acres 
at  Bordentown,  where  he  dwelt  until  1832,  entertain- 
ing many  illustrious  Frenchmen.  The  Philadelphians 
were  rather  jealous  of  the  good  luck  of  New  Jersey 
in  securing  such  distinguished  residents,  and  called  the 
State  Spain,  with  good-humored  raillery  reading  it  out 
of  the  Union.  Hence  arose  the  gibe  that  this  domain  is  in  some  sense  a  foreign  land  ;  and 
the  people  were  long  called  foreigners  and  Spaniards,  since  their  social  leader  was  the 
King  of  Spain.  The  term  State  of  Camden  and  Amboy  was  also  used  in  the  days  when  the 
Camden  &  Amboy  Railroad  influence  held  a  dominating  power. 

The  Arms  of  New  Jersey  bear  three  ploughs,  on  a  silver  shield,  denoting  the  agricultural 
prosperity  of  the  State,  with  female  figures  of  Liberty  and  Ceres  as  supporters.     The  crest 

is  a  horse's  head,  indicative  of  stock-raising.  The  motto 
Liberty  and  Prosperity  has  sometimes  been  added,  but 
without  official  authority.  This  seal  was  adopted  for 
the  State  in  the  year  1776. 

The  Governors  (after  the  Dutch  and  Swedish  rules) 
included  seven  of  East  Jersey  and  eight  of  West  Jersey 
(1665-1703),  eleven  of  New  Jersey  and  New  York 
united  (1702-38),  ten  of  New  Jersey  as  a  Province,  and 
the  following-named  of  the  State  :  Wm.  Livingston, 
1776-90;  Wm.  Paterson,  1790-2;  Richard  Howell, 
1792-1801;  Joseph  Bloomfield,  1801-2  and  1803-12; 
John  Lambert,  (acting),  1802-3;  Aaron  Ogden,  1812-3; 


NEWTON  !     FARMING   SCENE. 


NAVESINK  I 
HIGHLAND  LIGHTS. 


8ANDY  HOOK  I 
SIGNAL  STATION. 


552 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


NEWARK  I     KEARNY    MONUMENT. 


Wm.  S.  Pennington,  1813-5;  Mahlon  Dickerson,  1815-7; 
Isaac  H.Williamson,  1817-29;  Garret  D.  Wall,  1829  (declined); 
Peter  D.  Vroom,  1829-32;  Samuel  Lewis  Southard,  1832-3; 
Elias  P.  Seeley,  1833;  Peter  D.  Vroom,  1833-6;  Philemon 
Dickerson,  1836-7  ;  Wm.  Pennington,  1837-43  ;  Daniel  Raines, 
1843-4  and  1848-51;  Chas.  C.  Stratton,  1845-8;  Geo.  F.  Fort, 
1851-4;  Rodman  M.  Price,  1854-7;  Wm.  A.  Newell,  1857-60; 
Chas.  S.  Olden,  1860-3 ;  Joel  Parker,  1863-6 ;  Marcus  L. 
Ward,  1866-9;  Theodore  F.  Randolph,  1869-72;  Joel  Parker, 
1872-5;  Joseph  D.  Bedle,  1875-8;  George  Brinton  McClellan, 
1878-81;  George  C.  Ludlow,  1881-4;  Leon  Abbett,  1884-7; 
Robert  Stockton  Green,  1887-90;  and  Leon  Abbett,  1890-3. 

Descriptive. —  New  Jersey  is  a  peninsula,  bounded  by  the 
Delaware,  the  Hudson  and  the  ocean ;  and  may  be  divided  into  the  northern  mountains,  the 
central  hill-country,  and  the  southern  pine-forests,  sandy  plains  and  marshes.  Lying  be- 
tween New  York  and  Philadelphia,  the  chief  cities  of  America  ("like  a  cider-barrel  tapped 
at  both  ends,"  as  Benjamin  Franklin  said),  market -gardening  and  agriculture  are  the  profita- 
ble pursuits  of  one  sixth  of  its  inhabitants;  and  its  120  miles  of  sandy  sea-fronting  beaches 
afford  fashionable  and  crowded  summer-resorts  for  these  metropolitan  hives  of  people.  The 
shape  of  New  Jersey  has  been  likened,  by  its  geological  survey,  to  that  of  a  bean.  From 
Cape  May  to  its  northern  point  the  distance  is  167!  miles.  Its  greatest  breadth  is  59  miles; 
and  from  Bordentown  to  South  Amboy  it  is  but  32  miles  across. 
There  are  only  three  States  smaller  in  area.  The  Kittatinny  (or 
Blue)  Mountain  extends  for  nearly  50  miles  across  the  north- 
western corner  of  the  State,  near  and  parallel  with  the  Dela- 
ware River,  which  forms  the  boundary.  It  runs  from  Mt.  Tam- 
many, at  the  Delaware  Water  Gap  (1,479  ^eet  hign)»  to  tne  peak 
of  High  Point  (1,799  feet)»  where  it  joins  the  Shawangunk  Range. 
The  steep  eastern  declivities  are  carefully  cultivated,  and  lead  up  to 
a  line  of  forests,  crowning  the  wall-like  range  with  sombre  color. 
On  the  east  opens  the  long  Kittatinny  Valley,  a  rich  grazing  and 
farming  country,  ten  miles  wide,  and  abounding  in  clear  lakes, 
fair  green  hills  and  broad  reaches  of  valuable  limestone  lands.  The 
Highlands  cross  northwestern  New  Jersey  in  a  belt  60  miles  long 
and  from  10  to  22  miles  wide,  joining  the  South-Mountain  range  of 
Virginia,  Maryland  and  Pennsylvania  to  the  Highlands  of  New  York  and  New  England. 
They  cover  900  square  miles,  between  the  Kittatinny  Valley,  on  the  north  and  west,  and  the 
red  sandstone  plain  on  the  south,  with  a  succession  of  detached  parallel  ridges,  smooth-crested 
and  without  peaks,  and  reaching  their  greatest  height  on  Hamburg  Mountain  (1,488  feet). 
Their  detached  parallel  ridges  include  the  Ramapo,  Trowbridge,  Wawayanda,  Hamburg, 
Schooley's,  Musconetcong,  Pohatcong,  Scott's  and  Jenny-Jump  Mountains.  Some  of  these 
are  rich  in  minerals  ;  some  are  cultivated  all  over ;  and  others  are  bare,  rocky  and  valueless. 
Southeast  of  the  Highlands,  from  Trenton  to  Staten 
Island,  and  from  Holland  to  Morristown  and  Suf- 
fern,  is  the  Triassic  or  Red- Sandstone  region,  of 
1,540  square  miles,  the  most  thickly  settled  part 
of  the  State.  Breaking  through  this  red  plain, 
perpendicular  toward  the  east  and  gently  sloping 
toward  the  west,  are  the  low  trap  ridges  of  the 
Watchung,  Sourland  and  Pickle  Mountains.  The 
most  famous  of  these  is  the  Palisades,  a  line  of 
wonderful  basaltic  precipices  extending  along  the 


THE    PALISADES 
AND    HUDSON    RIVER. 


LAKE    HOPATCONQ. 


THE  STATE  OF  NEW   JERSEY. 


553 


PATERSON  :     PASSAIC    FALLS. 


"*  Hudson  River  from  Staten-Island  Sound  to  Ladentown  (N.  Y. ), 
and  looking  down  on  the  crowded  streets  of  New  York. 
This  lonely  line  of  cliffs  is  crowned  with  woods,  and  has 
many  a  bright  cascade,  many  a  deserted  village  and  dock, 
and  exquisite  views  over  the  broad  Hudson.  Nearly  parallel, 
and  several  leagues  inland,  rise  the  long  walls  of  the  First, 
Second  and  Third  Mountains.  Orange  Mountain  is  visible 
from  New- York  Harbor.  The  beautiful  hill-country  begin- 
ning at  Orange,  and  including  Madison,  Montclair,  Summit 
and  Morristown,  is  enriched  by  hundreds  of  summer-estates 
and  villas,  suburban  to  New  York.  The  land  is  lifted  into 
great  smooth  folds,  around  which  wind  broad  and  excellent 
roads,  traversing  the  fairest  parts  of  this  natural  park.  The  mounds  and  dells  of  Short 
Hills  are  occupied  by  scores  of  the  handsomest  modern  country-houses,  with  serpentine 
roads,  ravines  of  ferns,  gardens  famous  all  over  America,  and  vistas  extending  out  to  the 
Navesink  Highlands.  Farther  to  the  east,  over  Dunellen,  rises  Washington  Rock,  from 
which  the  great  Virginian  used  to  watch  the  movements  of  the  British  troops  in  upper 
New  Jersey.  Thence  the  wayfarer  may  see  the  ships  on  the  blue  Atlantic,  scores  of  white 
villages  and  cities  (like  Elizabeth,  Rahway,  Newark  and  Amboy),  the  chief  buildings  of 
great  New  York,  and  the  piers  of  the  Brooklyn  Bridge,  in  a  noble  and  commanding 
prospect,  which  includes  the  most  populous  and  wealthy  part  of  the  American  Union. 

Greenwood  Lake  lies  among  wildernesses  of  rugged 
rocks  and  woodlands,  on  the  New-York  frontier,  and 
has  several  groups  of  pretty  islands,  and  summer-hotels 
for  hundreds  of  guests.  Lake  Hopatcong,  nine  by  three 
miles,  is  a  beautiful  forest-girt  sheet  of  water,  glimmer- 
ing among  the  dark  Brookland  Mountains  ;  and  in  the 
same  region  is  Budd's  Lake,  a  round  shield  a  league  in 
circumference,  and  1, 200  feet  high,  over  the  Musconet- 
cong  Valley.  Both  these  localities  have  large  summer- 
hotels  and  fine  rural  estates.  Another  popular  point  in 
this  region  is  Schooley's  Mountain,  with  its  celebrated 
tonic  chalybeate  spring  and  hotels,  visited  now  for  nearly  a  century,  and  overlooking  the 
Musconetcong  and  German  Valleys.  The  Heath  House  was  opened  as  a  summer-resort  in 
1793,  and  Gen.  Washington  spent  part  of  a  season  here.  His  room  and  furniture  are  kept 
just  as  he  left  them. 

The  southern  part  of  the  State  is  a  plain,  rarely  rising  to  an  altitude  of  two  hundred 
feet,  and  almost  without  mineral  deposits,  except  bog  iron  ore.  Forests  of  fragrant  cedar 
front  Delaware  Bay  and  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  Contrary  to  the  general  opinion,  the  land  is 
not  a  sandy  waste  of  pine  and  scrub  oak,  but  rather  a  rich  unimproved  agricultural  country, 
where  cleared  farms  are  often  worth  $250  to  $400  per  acre.  With  soil  and  climate  like 
those  of  southeastern  Virginia,  trucking  for  markets  is  a  profitable  industry,  whilst  the  best 
rail  and  water  communication  exists  with  the  great  cities.  The  Vineland  and  Hammonton 

colonies  were  founded  about  20  years 
T;      ago,  mainly  by  New-Englanders,  with 
their  characteristic  ideas  and    institu- 
tions, and  on  the  gravelly  loam  quanti- 
ties of  small  fruits  are  raised  for  the  city 
markets.   In  this  vicinity  are  colonies  of 
Russian  Jews,  driven  from  their  own 
country.  South  Jersey  is  well  adapted  to 
PERTH  AMBOY  i  RAILWAY  BRIDGE,  RARiTAN  RIVER.  the  manufacture  of  glass  and  bricks,  as 


ATLANTIC    CITY. 


554 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


excellent  sand  and  clay  abound.    The  ocean-front  is 
•  ~  to  a  large  extent  composed  of  narrow  sandy  islands, 
with  areas    of  melancholy  salt-marsh    and   tidal 
lagoons  inside,  reached  by  narrow  inlets. 
Barnegat  Bay,  and  Great  and  Little  Egg 
Harbors,  are  useful  for  small  vessels  only. 
Newark  Bay  covers  ten  square  miles,  and 
opens  on  New- York  harbor.     The  fisheries 

employ  over  6,000  men,  with  a  yearly  product  of  $3,000,000,  most 
of  which  is  from  oysters.      A  score  of  varieties  of  foodfish  are  caught, 

LONG  BRANCH  :  THE  BLUFF  including  tautog,  porgies,  sheep's-head,  weak-fish,  mackerel,  cod, 
AND  BATHING  BEACH.  blue-fish,  swordfish,  haddock,  salmon  and  herring.  Jersey  City, 
with  its  enormous  commerce,  is  in  the  New- York  customs-district.  The  ports  of  entry  on 
the  coast  are  Perth  Amboy,  Great  Egg  Harbor,  Tuckerton,  Newark,  and  Bridgeton.  Lam- 
berton  is  at  Trenton,  on  the  Delaware.  Sandy  Hook  forms  one  of  the  portals  of  the  Lower 
Bay  of  New  York,  and  is  partly  covered  with  scrub  oak  and  pine  and  ground  ivy,  and  occu- 
pied by  a  deserted  stone  fort,  three  light-houses,  a  telegraph  station  for  reporting  incoming 
vessels,  and  an  ordnance  station  of  the  United-States  Army,  with  several  officers  and  40 
soldiers,  where  great  guns  are  tested.  The  Hook  belongs  to  the  Government ;  and  is  joined 
to  the  mainland  by  a  narrow  sand-strip  six  miles  long,  between  the  sea  and  Shrewsbury 
River.  Steamboats  run  from  New  York  to  the  Hook, 

whence  a  railway  goes  down  the  beach  to  Long  Branch.  '-^<-,~  ^  ^^~~^--»  v.  .--  „ " 
The  most  conspicuous  point  on  the  coast  is  the 
Highlands  of  Navesink,  a  rugged  and  wooded 
range  rising  from  the  sea  near  Sandy  Hook,  Mt. 
Mitchell  being  282  feet  high.  The  great  Fresnel 
lanterns  of  the  Highland  Lights  flash  248  feet 
above  the  water,  visible  for  many  leagues  at  sea. 
From  the  tops  of  their  tall  stone  towers  New  York 
and  the  Narrows  may  be  seen,  with  the  villages 

of  Long  Island,  the  blue  waters  of  Raritan  Bay,  the  coast  as  far  down  as  Long  Branch, 
and  a  vast  expanse  of  ocean.  The  scenes  of  Cooper's  Water  Witch  are  laid  in  this  vicinity. 
The  coast  below  is  lined  with  well-known  summer-resorts,  abounding  in  hotels.  Beginning 
on  the  north,  with  the  sea-commanding  Highlands  of  Navesink,  we  may  go  southward 
by  Seabright  to  Long  Branch,  in  Grant's  day  the  summer  capital  of  the  Republic,  and  en- 
riched with  many  costly  villas,  31  miles  from  New  York,  and  close  to  the  famous  Mon- 
mouth-Park  race-course ;  Elberon,  where  President  Garfield  died ;  Asbury  Park  and  Ocean 
Grove,  famous  Methodist  camp-meeting  grounds,  with  the  rude  tents  of  former  years  re- 
placed by  huge  hotels  and  many  cottages,  and  the  summer-headquarters  of  bishops,  King's 
Daughters,  deaconesses,  and  other  devout  persons ;  Sea  Girt,  with  the  camp  of  the  New- 
Jersey  National  Guard ;  Point  Pleasant,  the  oldest  sea-side  resort  on  the  coast ;  Seaside 
^  Park,  on  the  beach  outside  of  Barnegat  Bay  ; 

Tom's    River    and    Tuckerton,    quiet   old 
-Tf..  maritime  villages  on  the  estuaries ;  Atlan- 

tic City,  beyond  the  vast  salt-marshes  of 
Absecon,  and  near  Brigantine  Beach,  with 
its  magnificent  strand,  favored  by  people 
of  Philadelphia  (64  miles  northwest),  both 
in  summer  and  winter;  and  Cape  May,  81 
miles  from  Philadelphia,  one  of  the  famous 
Capes  of  Delaware.  Above  Cape  May  are 
several  beaches. 


CAPE  MAY  I    OCEAN  PIER. 


THE  STATE   OF  NEW  JERSEY. 


555 


DELAWARE  WATER    GAP. 


The  coast  consists  of  broad  tidal  meadows,  with  no  |fefe:- 
good  harbors,  and  is  starred  at  night  with  fifty  lights,  of 
which  nearly  a  score  glimmer  around  New- York  Bay, 
while  others  show  the  courses  up  the  Delaware  as  far  as 
Bordentown,  and  the  tall  towers  of  the  Cape- May,  Abse- 
con,  Barnegat  and  Navesink  lights  face  the  Atlantic.  This 
coast  has  been  called  "The  Graveyard  of  the  Sea,"  so 
numerous  have  been  the  wrecks  along  its  barren  sands.  It 
is  now  occupied  by  a  line  of  stations  of  the  United- States 
Life- Saving  Service.  In  six  years  of  the  last  decade,  400 
vessels  went  ashore  here,  and  4,650  lives  and  $7,000,000 
worth  of  property  were  saved,  only  80  persons  having  been 
lost.  Surfmen  patrol  the  beaches  through  the  winter  nights ;  and  when  a  wreck  is  discovered 
they  burn  red  Coston  lights,  to  alarm  the  stations  and  to  notify  the  sailors  that  help  is  near. 
The  chief  rivers  include  the  Passaic  and  Hackensack  (80  miles  long),  emptying  into 
Newark  Bay;  the  Raritan,  navigable  to  New  Brunswick,  17  miles;  the  Little  Egg  Harbor 
and  Great  Egg  Harbor  Rivers,  emptying  into  the  Atlantic ;  and  the  Maurice. 

Lakewood  is  one  of  the  foremost  winter-resorts  in  America,  and  stands  in  a  dense  pine 
forest,  eight  miles  from  the  ocean,  free  from  malaria  and  rich  in  the  perfume  of  myriads 
of  pine-trees.  Thousands  of  guests  enjoy  its  bracing  air  every 
winter  and  spring.  Still  greater  numbers  visit  Atlantic  City, 
whose  climate  is  milder,  during  the  inclement  season,  than 
almost  any  other  point  in  the  snowy  North.  Brown's  Mills, 
in  the  pine  woods  30  miles  east  of  Philadelphia,  has  also  been 
a  health-resort  for  over  seventy  years.  The  healthy  uplands  of 
the  north  have  a  mean  temperature  of  48°  to  50°,  and  50  inches 
of  rainfall.  The  southern  plains,  under  the  influence  of  the 
ocean,  have  an  annual  mean  of  54°,  with  a  precipitation  of  41 
inches. 

Agriculture  employs  30,000  New- Jersey  farms,  covering 
3,000,000  acres,  and  valued  at  $265,000,000.  The  State  raises 
yearly  600,000  tons  of  hay,  worth  $7,500,000;  10,000,000 
bushels  of  corn,  worth  $5,000,000;  3,500,000  bushels' of  oats  and  potatoes;  and  2,000,000 
bushels  of  wheat.  The  Delaware  Valley  from  Trenton  to  Salem,  and  other  parts  of  the 
central  counties,  are  among  the  most  carefully  and  skillfully  developed  farming  regions  in 
America,  being  in  effect  vast  market-gardens  for  New  York  and  Philadelphia.  Farmlands 
are  worth  more  here  than  in  any  other  State. 
New  Jersey  is  famous  for  its  peaches,  and  sends 
to  market  yearly  above  2,000,000  baskets,  the 
fruit  being  fully  equal  in  flavor  to  that  of  any  other 
region,  and  much  nearer  the  metropolitan  cities. 
It  is  also  one  of  the  three  great  cranberry 
States  (the  others  being  Massachusetts  and  Wis- 
consin), and  the  crop  has  exceeded  234,000 
bushels  in  a  year.  The  headquarters  of  the 
American  Cranberry  Growers'  Association  is  at  Trenton. 
The  counties  of  Sussex  and  Warren  and  the  adjacent 
Orange  County  (N.  Y.)  produce  nearly  all  the  apple- 
brandy made  in  America,  their  50  distilleries  turning  out 
nearly  200,000  gallons  yearly.  This  fiery  spirit  is  com- 
monly known  as  applejack,  or  Jersey  lightning.  The  live- 
stock of  the  State  is  valued  at  about  $20,000,000,  and 


FROM    THE    PALISADES. 


BOONTON  : 
THE   NAIL-WORKS. 


INCLINED    PLANE,   MORRIS    CANAL. 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

includes  125,000  horses,  240,000  cattle,  150,000  hogs  and 
130,000  sheep.  The  dairy  products  yield  a  great  amount 
yearly.  Two  fifths  of  the  State  is  covered  with  forests,  whose 
products  in  fuel  and  lumber  exceed  $5,  000,000  yearly.  The 
annual  loss  by  forest-fires  exceeds  $1,000,000. 

Minerals.  —  The  Kittatinny  Mountain  has  large  quar- 
ries of  slate  on  the  southeast,  at  Delaware  Water  Gap  and 
Newton,  for  roofing  and  flagging;  and  water-lime  and 
Rosendale  cement  on  the  north.  Northwest  of  the  High- 
lands lie  the  Palaeozoic  rocks,  and  the  valuable  magnesian 
limestones  and  hematite  iron-ores  of  the  Kittatinny  Valley. 
The  Highlands  are  of  Azoic  rocks,  syenitic  gneiss  and 
crystalline  limestone,  with  great  deposits  of  magnetic  iron 
ore,  of  which  from  500,000  to  1,000,000  tons  are  mined 
yearly,  and  worked  in  the  furnaces  at  Oxford,  Boonton  and  Phillipsburg,  and  in  Pennsyl- 
vania. This  range  also  yields  blue  sedimentary  rock,  for  building  and  for  making  lime,  and 
has  valuable  quarries  of  granite.  New  Jersey  is  one  of  the  foremost  States  in  producing 
zinc,  mined  at  Ogdensburg  and  Franklin,  and  worked  at  Newark  and  Jersey  City.  The 
product  of  Sussex  County  since  1880  has  averaged  over  40,000  tons  a  year.  The 
1,540  square  miles  of  the  red  sandstone  plain  contain 
valuable  quarries  at  Newark,  Belleville,  Paterson,  Orange, 
Trenton,  and  Little  Falls  (whence  came  the  stone  for 
Trinity  Church,  N.  Y.).  These  firmly  cemented  de- 
posits  of  once  incoherent  beds  of  sand  contain  many  fos- 
sils  of  fishes  and  plants.  The  quarries  at  Greensburg  and 
Prattsville,  on  the  Delaware,  send  their  product  largely  to 
Philadelphia.  The  Perth-Amboy  Terra-Cotta  Works  use 
15,000  tons  of  clay,  and  turn  out  $400,000  worth  of  goods 
yearly.  Trenton  makes  more  pottery  and  crockery  than 
all  the  rest  of  the  Atlantic  States.  The  plastic  and  fire- 
clays of  Trenton,  Woodbridge  and  Amboy  are  pure  and 
highly  refractory  ;  and  have  a  high  value  in  the  arts.  In 
a  single  year,  350,000  tons  of  these  clays  have  been  worked, 
making  a  large  proportion  of  American  terra  cotta,  pottery 
and  stone-  ware,  besides  160,000,000  red  bricks  and 
16,000,000  fire-bricks.  The  Raritan  and  Delaware  dis- 
tricts yearly  send  out  250,000  tons  of  fire-clay  and  potters' 
clay,  valued  at  $460,000;  and  80,000  tons  of  fire-sand.  From  Sandy  Hook  to  Salem  ex- 
tend beds  of  marl,  clay  marl  and  shell  marl,  of  which  200,000  tons  are  used  yearly  for  fer- 
tilizing the  soil  ;  and  thick  alternating  strata  of  sand  and  green-sand,  the  latter  of  which  is 
used  in  glass-making.  In  former  days,  copper  and  graphite  were  obtained  in  New  Jersey, 

which  also  has  small  deposits  of  lead  and  nickel, 
and  valuable  manganese,  sulphate  of  baryta, 
kaolin,  pyrites  and  infusorial  earth.  The  rose- 
crystal  marble  of  Jenny-Jump  and  the  serpen- 
tine of  Montville  are  noteworthy  minerals. 

The  Government  consists  of  a  governor, 
elected  for  three  years  by  the  people  ;  a  legisla- 
ture of  21  three-years  senators  and  60  one-year 
assemblymen  ;  secretary  of  state,  attorney-gen- 
eral, adjutant-general,  quartermaster  general, 
HOBOKEN  ;  THE  STEVENS  INSTITUTE.  and  other  officials  appointed  by  the  governor 


MOUNT  BYRAM  :  1RON  MINE- 


MORRISTOWN  :    INSANE  ASYLUM. 


THE  STATE   OF  NEW  JERSEY. 

and  confirmed  by  the  senate  ;   and  a  treasurer  and 

comptroller  and  others  appointed  by  the  legislature. 

The  judiciary  (mainly  appointed  by  the  governor 

and  confirmed  by  the  senate)  includes  the  courts 

of  errors  and  appeals,  of  impeachment  (the  senate), 

of  chancery,    of  prerogative,  and  of  pardon ;  the 

supreme  court  of  nine  justices  ;  and  the  circuit  and 

common-pleas  courts  in  each  county.     The  State 

House  overlooks  the  Delaware  River,  at  Trenton, 

and  its  front  part,  built  to  replace  one  partly  burnt  in  1885,  is  a  Renaissance  structure,  of 

Indiana  oolitic  limestone,  with  a  dome  and  rotunda,  and  a  portico  and  balcony  upheld  by 

polished  marble  columns.     The  library  of  35,000  volumes,  the  geological  museum,  and  the 

battle-flags  of  the  volunteers  of  1861-5,  are  preserved  here. 

The  Geological  Survey  and  its  geodetic  and  topographical  works  have  been  of  great 
benefit.  These  works  were  begun  by  Prof.  H.  D.  Rogers  (1839-40)  and  Dr.  Wm.  Kitchell 
(1854-6),  and  continued  from  1864  to  1889  by  Prof.  G.  H.  Cook.  The  Labor  Bureau  con- 
tinually studies  ways  of  opening  profitable  new  avenues  for  industry  ;  collects  statistics  about 
labor  and  capital ;  and  helps  these  two  great  forces  to  agree.  The  Board  of  Health  collects 
valuable  vital  statistics,  and  investigates  all  matters  pertaining  to  the  public  health.  The 
State  debt  was  contracted  in  1861-5,  mainly  for  supporting  soldiers'  families.  No  State  tax 

has  been  levied  for  several  years. 

^*^e  National  Guard  is  embodied  in  a 

-fc^.  division  °f  two  brigades.     The  First  Brigade 

•BrFfTWrmBp^  includes  the  First  (headquarters,  Newark), 
Second  (Hoboken),  Fourth  (Jersey  City),  and 
Fifth  (Newark)  Regiments ;  the  First,  Second, 
and  Third  Battalions,  of  Paterson,  Leonia  and 
Orange;  Gatling  Battery  A,  of  Elizabeth;  and 
five  gun  detachments.  The  Second  Brigade  is 
GREENWOOD  LAKE.  made  up  of  the  Third  (Elizabeth),  Sixth  (Cam- 

den),  and  Seventh  (Trenton)  Regiments,  with  their  gun  detachments ;  Gatling  Battery  B, 
of  Camden ;  and  Company  A,  Sea-Coast  Artillery,  of  Atlantic  City.  The  reserve  militia 
numbers  285,000  men.  One  brigade  of  the  National  Guard  encamps  for  a  week  each  sum- 
mer at  Sea  Girt,  alongside  of  the  ocean,  where  the  State  has  a  capital  camp-ground  of  119 
acres.  Great  attention  is  paid  to  rifle-practice,  and  gold  and  silver  crosses  of  honor  are 
awarded  to  marksmen.  The  artillery  cannonades  targets  anchored  off  shore.  Skirmish- 
drill  and  volley-firing  are  also  practiced.  The  State  owns  46  field-pieces  and  eight  Catlings. 
The  Arsenal  occupies  the  old  State  Prison  at  Trenton,  built  in  1797;  and  has  several  Brit- 
ish and  French  trophy  cannon,  and  the  arms  and  ammunition,  tents,  and  other  military 
supplies.  The  New- Jersey  Home  for  Disabled  Soldiers  was  founded  in  1865  at  Newark, 
and  in  1888  moved  into  commodious  new  buildings  at  Kearney,  on  the  Passaic  River.  It  has 
430  inmates,  unfortunate  veterans  of  the  Secession  War. 

The  defective  and  delinquent  persons  in  New  Jersey 
number  7,200,  costing  the  State  $1,700,000  a  year.     The 
State  Prison  at  Trenton  was  finished  in  1836,  of  Ewing 
red  stone,  and  in  Egyptian  architecture.     It  con- 
tains  1,000  convicts.      Indeterminate    sentences 
have  been  recommended  for  trial  here.     The  State 
laws  forbid  that  criminals  under  1 6  years  shall  be 
confined  with  adults.    The  State  Industrial  School 
for  Girls  dates  from  1871,  and  has  90  inmates. 
It  occupies  a  large  farm,  in  the  beautiful  Delaware        PR,NCETON  :  JOHN  c.  GREEN  SCHOOL  OF  SCIENCE. 


558 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


Valley,  two  miles  north- 
west   of   Trenton.      The 
State   Reform    School  at 
Jamesburg,  opened  in 
1867,  contains  330   boys, 
who  are  taught  the   Eng- 
lish  branches,   and   also 
tailoring,  shoe-making, 
printing,    brick    and    tile 
making     and 
farming.     It  oc- 
cupies a  farm  of 
490  acres.    The 
vast  and  impos- 
ing palace  of  the 
State    Asylum 
for  the    Insane, 
on       Morris 
Plains,    contains   900   pa- 
tients, and  is  one  of  the  best 
in  America.     It  occupies  a 
farm  of  430  acres,  and  cost 
$2,250,000.      The    State 
Lunatic  Asylum,  opened  in 
1848,  near   the    Delaware 
River,  2^  miles  northwest  of  Tren- 
ton, is  a  high-domed  building  of 
red  sandstone,  accommodating  800 
patients.     The  Home  for  Feeble- 
Minded  Women  and  Children  was 
founded  at  Vineland  in  1888.   The 
School  for  Deaf  Mutes  at  Trenton 
educates  its  125  inmates  in   Eng- 
lish branches  and  industrial  dex- 
terity.   Blind  children  are  supported  by  the  State  in  Pennsylvania  and  New- York  institutions. 
The  only  garrisoned  United- States  military  post  in  New  Jersey  is  Fort  Wood,  on  Bed- 
loe's  Island,  New- York  Harbor,  where  stands  Bartholdi's  famous  statue  of  Liberty  Enlighten- 
ing the  World.     The  United-States  Powder  Depot  is  4^  miles  from  Dover. 

Education. —  New  Jersey  has  392, 209  children  of  school-age,  of  whom  227,441  are  en- 
rolled in  the  free  public  schools.  These  schools  can  accommodate  but  212,000.  The  school- 
funds,  including  riparian  leases  and  agricultural-college  funds,  reach  nearly  $3,500,000, 
giving  a  yearly  income  of  $275,000,  besides  over  $3,000,000  of  school-taxes.  The  value  of 
the  school-property  exceeds  $8,500,000.  The  school-libraries  contain  90,000  volumes.  The 
State  Normal  School  at  Trenton  has  250  students.  The  Model  School  at  Trenton  is  a  fully 
equipped  State  academy,  with  450  students.  The  Farnum  School,  at  Beverly,  preparatory 
for  the  Normal,  has  130  students. 

Princeton  College,  officially  called  the  College  of  New  Jersey,  received  its  charter  in  1 746, 
as  a  Presbyterian  "seminary  of  true  religion  and  sound  learning,"  and  held  its  earliest  ses- 
sions at  Elizabethtown  and  Newark,  removing  in  1757  to  Princeton,  whose  citizens  con- 
tributed liberally  to  its  establishment.  The  great  stone  building  of  Nassau  Hall,  named  for 
King  William  III.,  of  the  House  of  Nassau,  dates  from  1754-7,  and  was  then  the  largest 
building  in  the  American  colonies.  During  the  Revolution  this  edifice  was  for  five  years  a 


PRINCETON  :     THE    COLLEGE   OF    NEW  JERSEY. 


NEW  BRUNSWICK :    RUTGERS    COLLEGE. 


THE  STATE   OF  NEW  JERSEY. 

barrack  and 
hospital  for  the 
British  and 
American  arm- 
ies. The  Con- 
tinental Con- 
gress held  ses- 
sions here  in 
the  latter  part  of  the  Revo- 
lution. 

When  the  Secession  War 
broke  out,  a  third  of  Prince- 
ton's students  returned  to 
their  homes  in  the  South,  and 
many  of  those  who  remained 

entered  the  National  army,  to  the  great  loss  of  the  college. 
The  presidency  of  the  Rev.  Dr.  James  McCosh  extended 
from  1868  to  1888,  during  which  period  the  college  grew 
from  1 6  instructors  and  264  students  to  40  instructors  (it  now 
has  50)  and  604  students  (it  now  has  750),  and  also  received 
$3,000,000  in  contributions.  John  C.  Green  founded  the 
School  of  Science,  and  built  Dickinson  Hall  and  the  Chan- 
cellor-Green Library ;  and  his  estate  erected  Witherspoon 
and  Edwards  Halls  and  the  small  observatory,  the  electrical 
building  and  the  Laboratory.  In  all,  $1,500,000  came  to  Princeton  from  this  source.  Wm. 
Libbey  gave  the  University  Hotel  and  the  Museum  of  Geology  and  Archaeology.  Gen. 
Norris  Halsted  erected  the  observatory.  Robert  Bonner  and  H.  C.  Marquand  built  the 
beautiful  gymnasium  ;  and  the  latter  erected  the  chapel.  His  brother's  estate  founded  the 
School  of  Art.  The  Stuarts  gave  the  president's  house  and  grounds,  and  founded  the  School 
of  Philosophy.  Mrs.  Susan  D.  Brown  gave  $175,000  to  erect  Albert  Dod  Hall  and  David 
Brown  Hall.  A  number  of  the  professorships  bear  the  names  of  the  founders.  Princeton 
has  6,300  alumni,  including  1,250  clergymen  and  400  physicians.  The  ancient  Nassau  Hall 
and  East  and  West  Colleges,  and  the  American  Whig  and  Cliosophic  Halls  enclose  a  quiet 
quadrangle,  guarded  by  two  Revolutionary  cannon.  On  either  side  of  this  central  group, 
embowered  in  many  trees,  are  the  more  modern  buildings,  with  their  valuable  museums 
and  collections.  The  libraries  contain  80,000  volumes ;  and  among  the  treasures  of  the  Art 
Building  are  the  Mainion  Assyrian  antiquities  and  the  Trumbull-Prime  pottery.  Most  of 
the  buildings  are  of  stone,  and  stand  in  a  beautiful  campus  arranged  by  Frederick  Law 
Olmsted  and  Donald  G.  Mitchell.  The  Theological  Seminary  was  established  in  1812 
by  the  General  Assembly  of  the  Presbyterian  Church.  It  has  no  organic  connection  with 
the  college.  It  has  a  board  of  directors  and  a  board  of  trustees.  The  directors  elect  the 
professors,  and  fill  their  own  vacancies,  both  subject  to  a  veto  of  the  General  Assembly, 
which  thus  retains  ecclesiastical  control  over  the  institution.  Besides  the  original  building, 
it  has  an  additional  dormitory,  the  gift  of  Mrs.  George  Brown,  of  Baltimore,  a  building  for 
lecture  courses,  given  by  R.  I.  and  A.  Stuart,  of  New-York  City,  a  refectory  and  a  chapel, 
and  two  library  buildings,  erected  by  James  Lenox,  of  New  York,  besides  several  pro- 
fessors' houses.  These  donors,  together  with  the  J.  C.  Green  estate,  have  furnished  the 
larger  part  of  the  endowment.  The  library  contains  upward  of  50,000  volumes.  The  sem- 
inary has  ten  instructors,  175  students  and  4,000  graduates.  Evelyn  College  is  a  modern 
and  successful  institution  for  young  women,  near  Princeton  College,  and  has  50  students. 

Rutgers  College  received  its  charter  in  1766,  as  Queen's  College,  and  opened  its  doors 
at  New  Brunswick,  in  1771,  mainly  to  prepare  young  men  for  the  ministry  of  the  Reformed 


560 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


Protestant  Dutch  Church.  The  buildings  were  burned  by  the  British,  and  the  institution 
suffered  three  periods  of  suspension,  covering  25  years.  Under  the  presidencies  of  Mille- 
doler,  Frelinghuysen,  Campbell  and  Gates  (1825-90),  the  college  has  advanced  steadily,  and 
it  now  has  23  instructors  and  187  students.  The  shadowy  campus  contains  the  noble  old 
brownstone  building  of  Queen's  College,  the  geological  hall,  the  observatory,  the  beautiful 
chapel  and  library,  and  the  handsome  colonial  dormitory.  Winants  Hall,  erected  in  1889-90, 
with  assembly  and  dining  halls,  and  dormitories  for  120  students.  The  State  College  for 
the  Promotion  of  Agriculture  and  the  Mechanic  Arts,  founded  in  1865,  with  $116,000  com- 
ing from  the  Congressional  land-grant,  is  connected  with  Rutgers,  practically  as  its  scientific 
school,  and  has  an  admirable  model  farm  of  100  acres.  There  are  15  professors,  instructing 
in  four  courses,  chemistry,  engineering,  electricity,  and  agriculture.  This  institution  has  50 
State  scholarships,  free  of  tuition  charge. 

The  Stevens  Institute  of  Technology  was  founded  by  Edwin  A.  Stevens,  who  bequeathed 
$500,000  for  the  purpose,  and  also  a  block  of  land  close  ^  jv0>  ,g\  to    Castle 

Point,  the  beautiful  Stevens  estate  at  Hoboken.  The  ^f'^^--  institute 
opened  in  1871,  and  has  grown  into  success,  having  now  ?^^^^^(^^  J5  instruc- 


JERSEY    CITY,    HOBOKEN,  AND  THE    HUDSON    RIVER. 

tors  and  more  than  200  students,  besides  a  large  number  in  the  academy  connected  therewith. 
The  ancient  (Dutch)  Reformed  Church  has  but  one  theological  school  in  America, 
founded  in  1784,  and  established  near  Rutgers  College  in  1810.  It  is  richly  endowed,  and 
has  six  professors  and  60  students,  adhering  to  the  Belgic  Confession  and  Heidelberg 
Catechism.  The  German  Theological  Seminary  of  Newark  is  a  Presbyterian  institution,  at 
Bloomfield.  Drew  Theological  Seminary  is  a  Methodist-Episcopal  institution,  endowed  in 
1867  with  $250,000,  by  Daniel  Drew,  the  famous  New- York  broker.  It  occupies  an  exten- 
sive domain  at  Madison,  and  has  over  100  students.  Seton-Hall  College,  at  South  Orange, 
is  a  reputable  Catholic  institution,  founded  in  1856,  with  collegiate,  commercial  and  ecclesi- 
astical courses.  Vineland  has  a  Catholic  college  and  theological  school,  and  Newark  has 
a  college.  The  Military  Institute  is  a  boarding-school  among  the  ancient  elms  and  chest- 
nuts of  the  Bonaparte  park,  at  Bordentown.  Burlington  College  (founded  in  1846)  and  St. 
Mary's  Hall  are  Episcopal  schools  at  Burlington.  There  are  academies  of  high  grade  at 
Hightstown,  Morristown,  Plainfield,  Pennington,  Beverly,  Hackettstown,  Hoboken,  Law- 


enceville,  Bridge- 
o ther    pi 


LONG  BRANCH  :    MONMOUTH-PARK  RACE  COURSE. 


ton,    Belvidere,    Blairstown,     and 
Chief  Cities.— One-fifth  of  the 
population  is  foreign,  with  100,000 
Irishmen,    80,000    Germans    and 
40,000  Englishmen.    Newark,  nine 
miles  west  of  New  York,  is  an  en- 
terprising city  on  the  plains  of  the  Passaic,  four  miles 
from  Newark  Bay,  with  eleven  banks,  120  churches, 
and  400  factories.      $60,000,000  in  rubber,  leather, 
jewelry  and    other  goods,   and   flour   and   beer,    are 
produced  here  yearly.     Jersey  City  has  several  lines 


THE  STATE   OF  NEW  JERSEY. 


of  steam  ferry-boats  across  the  Hudson  River  to 
New- York  City.  The  great  railways  to  the  south 
and  west  terminate  here,  and  also  several  import- 
ant steamship  lines.  Hoboken,  on  the  Hudson, 
just  above  Jersey  City,  is  also  a  terminal  point 
for  railway  and  steamship  lines.  Trenton  (Trent's- 
town,  for  Col.  Wm.  Trent,  its  owner  in  1720), 
the  capital,  is  a  clean,  thrifty  and  pleasant  city, 
on  the  Delaware,  with  great  potteries  and  other 


NEWARK:  COURT-HOUSE.    NEWARK  AND  THE  PASSAIC  RIVER. 


works.  Gen.  McClellan  is  buried  in  the  Riverview  Cemetery. 
Camden  faces  Philadelphia,  across  the  Delaware,  and  has 
ship-yards,  factories,  and  immense  market-gardens.  Pater- 
son,  at  the  falls  of  the  Passaic  River,  is  the  chief  American 
seat  of  the  silk-making  industry,  in  which  it  has  8,000  opera- 
tives, besides  thousands  in  cotton,  .woolen  and  velvet  mills. 

Elizabeth  has  the  suburban  homes  of  many  New-York  mer-  NEWARK  :  POST-OFFICE. 

chants.     New  Brunswick,  on  the  Raritan,  contains  immense 

rubber  and  harness  manufactories.  Among  other  cities  are  Rah  way,  with  its  great  carriage- 
factories  ;  Perth  Amboy,  once  the  capital  of  New  Jersey  and  a  rival  of  New  York  ;  Prince- 
ton, with  the  graves  of  Jonathan  Edwards  and  Aaron  Burr;  Millville,  with  glass-factories; 
Plainfield,  a  pleasant  hat-making  city  ;  Phillipsburg,  with  iron-works  on  the  Delaware ; 
Orange,  with  the  pleasant  homes  of  New- York  merchants,  under  the  long  shadow  of  Orange 
Mountain  ;  Morristown,  a  dignified  old  shiretown,  with  the  villas  of  many  New-York  gentle- 
men; Burlington,  an  ancient  Quaker  town,  on  the  Delaware,  bombarded 
by  British  gunboats  in  1776;  Bordentown,  another  pleasant  little  river- 
city  ;  Bridgeton,  on  the  Cohansey,  not  far  from  Delaware  Bay,  with  iron, 
glass  and  woolen  mills ;  Vineland,  a  New-England  colony  on  the  great 
pine-plains  of  South  Jersey ;  Bayonne,  on  New- York  harbor,  with  enor- 
mous petroleum  refineries ;  and  Mount  Holly,  in  the  Rancocas  Valley. 

Insurance  is  a  prominent  feature  of  the  advanced  civilization  of  New 
Jersey,  and  there  are  several  strong  companies  here,  doing  a  large  and  profit- 
able business.  The  foremost  fire-insurance  company  of  New  Jersey  is  the 
American  Insurance  Company,  located  at  Newark.  It  was  founded  away 
back  in  1846,  and  has  had  an  uninterrupted  career  of  success.  Fortunately 
for  the  company,  its  operations  were  confined  almost  entirely  to  New  Jersey 
until  after  the  Chicago  and  Boston  conflagrations.  In  1873  it  entered  a 
few  outside  cities,  and  in  1880  extended  operations  generally  throughout 
the  country,  on  a  conservative  basis,  in  approved  localities,  with  agents  in 
the  chief  Northern  and  Western  cities,  and  on  the  Pacific  Coast.  A  note- 
worthy fact  about  the  American  is  that  its  surplus  not  only  exceeds 


NEWARK  I    MUTUAL  BENEFIT  LIFE- 
INSURANCE  CO. 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

$1,000,000,  but  it  is  larger  than  the  cash  capital  and  the  lia- 
bilities united.  The  American  leads  all  other  New- Jersey  com 
panics  in  total  assets  as  well  as  in  surplus  ;  although  no  company 
is  more  conservative  and  none  less  ostentatious. 

Among  the  oldest  and  strongest  insurance  corporations  o: 
America,  whose  immense  and  beneficent  operations  have  amazec 
the  financial  world,  the  Mutual  Benefit  Life-Insurance  Co.,  o: 
Newark,  occupies  a  peculiarly  interesting  position.  Among  its 
principles  are  the  following:  It  has  no  capital,  but  is  conducted  or 
the  purely  mutual  plan,  for  the  insurance  of  lives  upon  the  regu 
lar  or  level  premium  system.  All  profits  are  divided  among 
the  policy-holders,  in  the  form  of  yearly  dividends.  The  policies 
are  non-forfeitable,  and  incontestable  after  the  second  year ;  anc 
the  full  reserve  value  of  a  lapsed  policy  is  applied  by  the  com- 
pany to  keeping  the  insurance  in  force,  or  (if  preferred)  to  the 
purchase  of  a  paid-up  policy  for  a  reduced  amount.  The  Mutual  Benefit  was  founded  ir 
1845,  and  has  collected  from  its  policy-holders  $133,000,000,  and  paid  out  to  its  policy- 
holders  $60, ooo,  ooo  for  policy  claims,  $15,000,000  for  surrendered  policies,  and  $39,000,000 
for  dividends.  It  has  65,000  policies,  covering  $172,000,000,  and  its  assets  are  $47,000,000, 
with  a  surplus  of  $3,500,000.  Amzi  Dodd  is  president,  and  James  B.  Pearson,  vice-presi- 
dent. There  is  no  sounder  or  more  conservative  corporation  in  America. 

The  Railroads  of  New  Jersey  enjoy  a  remarkable  prosperity,  since  they  join  the 
greatest  cities  in  America.  The  Camden  &  Amboy  line 
received  incorporation  in  1830,  and  for  its  first  six 
months  (in  1833),  the  trains  were  drawn  by  horses. 
The  United  New-Jersey  Railroad  runs  from  Camden  to 
Amboy  (6 1  miles),  from  Philadelphia  to  Jersey  City 
(88  miles),  and  from  Trenton  to  Manunka  Chunk  (68 
miles).  The  Central  Railroad  of  New  Jersey  runs  from 
Jersey  City  to  Phillipsburg,  from  Elizabeth  to  Perth 
Amboy  and  Long  Branch,  and  from  Long  Branch 
southwest  to  Delaware  Bay.  Several  lines  cross  from 
Philadelphia  to  Cape  May,  Atlantic  City  and  the  summer-resorts  farther  up ;  and  othei 
routes  connect  New  York  with  the  favorite  beaches  from  Sandy  Hook  to  Barnegat  Bay. 
The  Baltimore  &  Ohio,  Pennsylvania,  and  Atlantic  Coast  lines  traverse  the  State. 

Canals. — The  famous  old  Morris  Canal  formerly  had  a  large  coal-carrying  trade  ovei 

its  101  miles  from  Jersey  City  to  Phillipsburg.     It  cost  $3,500,000,  and  was  opened  ir 

1831.     The  Delaware  and  Raritan  Canal  (New  Brunswick  to  Bordentown)  cost  $4,500,000. 

The   Manufactories  of  New   Jersey  number  over  7,000,  with   130,000  operatives, 

$110,000,000  capital,  $50,000,000  yearly  wages,  and  a  product  of  $250,000,000  yearly. 

Within  the  last  30  years  the  transporting  and  refining  of  petroleum  has  grown  from 

nothing  to  be  one  of  the 
leading  American  indus- 
tries. Foremost  among 
the  great  companies  en- 
gaged in  this  business  are 
the  Tide  Water  Pipe  Com- 
pany and  its  off-shoot,  the 
Tide  Water  Oil  Com- 
pany. The  former  com- 
pany, organized  in  1878 

THE  TIDE-WATER   OIL   COMPANY.  bX  B-  &>  BenSOn,  of  TitUS- 


ARTHUR-KILL    BRIDGE. 


THE  STATE   OF  NEW  JERSEY. 


563 


BAYONNE  :     THE  TIDE-WATER    OIL   COMPANY. 


ville  (Pa. ),  who  became  its  first  president,  gathers  in  the  Pennsylvania  oil-regions  7, 500  barrels 
of  crude  oil  a  day,  and  transports  it  through  320  miles  of  six-inch  pipe  (under  a  pressure  of 
1,200  pounds  a  square  inch)  to  Bayonne  (N.  J.),  where  it  is  delivered  to  the  Tide  Water  Oil 
Company.  This  latter  corporation  was  formed  in  1889  by  the  consolidation  of  four  smaller 
companies.  Its  works,  located  on  New- York  Harbor,  form  the  largest  single  oil-refinery  in 
the  world,  and  are  valued  at  $6,000,000.  They  cover  107  acres,  and  have  an  annual  ca- 
pacity of  3,000,000  barrels  of  crude  oil.  At  its  docks  are  berths  for  30  vessels,  with  a 
depth  of  water  sufficient  for  the  largest  ocean  steamers.  Here  is  often  seen  a  fleet  of  fine 
East- India  clippers,  loading  with  case  oil  for  countries  of  the  far  East,  together  with  great 
bulk  steamers  loading 
for  England  and  Ger- 
many. So  good  are 
the  facilities  that  a  bulk 
steamer  carrying  1,200,- 
ooo  gallons  has  been 
loaded  in  14  hours. 
There  are  1, 800  men 
employed.  The  crude 
material  used  yearly  includes  125,000  tons  of  coal,  13,500,000  pounds  of  sulphuric 
acid,  20,500,000  feet  of  lumber  for  cases,  8,800  tons  of  tin-plate  for  cans,  and  4,000,000 
white-oak  staves  for  barrels.  The  company  manufactures  all  petroleum  products,  but  makes 
a  specialty  of  illuminating  oils  and  naphtha,  parafnne  and  lubricating  oils.  It  is  the  only 
powerful  rival  of  the  octopus  Standard  Oil  Company,  and  how  great  a  rival  it  is  may  be 
judged  from  the  fact  that  its  annual  sales  amount  to  over  $9,000,000. 

In  making  hats,  New  Jersey  is  second  only  to  Connecticut,  turning  out  yearly  9,000,000 
hats,  from  82  factories.  Fifty  glass-furnaces  employ  5,000  persons,  with  an  output  of 
$3,000,000  a  year.  Silk-mills  employ  13,000  persons,  producing  $17,000,000  a  year. 

One  of  the  most  impressive  industrial  establishments  in  America  is  the  enormous  sewing- 
machine  factory  of  the  Singer  Manufacturing  Co.,  lying  between  the  beautiful  Singer  Park  and 
Newark  Bay,  at  Elizabeth.  These  spacious  and  handsome  brick  buildings  cover  18  acres  of 
floor  space,  and  stand  among  and  around  lawns  and  trees,  the  entire  estate  including  32  acres, 
with  four  miles  of  railroad  upon  it,  and  one  side  bounded  by  a  long  dock  frontage,  where  the 
company's  steamboat  takes  on  freight  daily.  The  works  employ  3, 300  persons,  and  make  1 , 500 
sewing-machines  a  day.  When  Isaac  Merritt  Singer,  poor  and  unknown,  but  great  in  faith,  set 
his  first  rude  sewing-machine  in  operation,  at  Boston,  in  the  year  1851,  he  conferred  an  inesti- 
mable benefit  on  the  human  race.  After  the  late  Edward  Clark  became  Singer's  partner,  the 
business  was  moved  to  New  York,  where  the  chief  offices  remain,  though  the  main  American 
works  have  been  at  Elizabeth  since  1873.  The  company  has  avast  capital,  with  stores  and 
salaried  men  in  every  civilized  and  uncivilized  land,  over  1,000  American  branches,  two  large 
wood-working  factories  in  this  country,  and  a  factory  in  Canada,  another  in  Australia,  and  im- 
mense works  near  Glasgow,  Scotland,  employing  4, 500  workers.  This  company  has  invented 
and  controls  more  special  processes  used  in  manufacturing  and  has  produced  a  greater  variety 

of  machines  than  all  other  houses  in  its  line  com- 
bined. Nearly  ten  million  of  its  machines  are 
now  in  use,  and  the  ambition  of  the  company  is 
to  make  a  million  machines  a  year.  It  is  said 
that  the  employees  of  the  Singer  Company,  in- 
cluding all  those  engaged  in  the  executive, 
manufacturing,  operating  and  selling  depart- 
ments, will  outnumber  those  of  any  other  one 
concern  in  the  world,  as  they  form  an  industrial 
ELIZABETH  :  SINGER  MANUFACTURING  co.  army  of  4O,ooo  workers. 


564 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 


JERSEY  CITY:    LORILLARD  TOBACCO  WORKS. 


rThe  Lorillard  Tobacco  Works  in   Jersey 
ifE-:,  City  are  the  oldest  in  America  and  the  largest 

in  the  world  for  making  tobacco  in  every  va- 
riety. This  pre-eminent  industry  was  founded 
in  1760,  by  Pierre  Lorillard,  an  enterprising 
French  Huguenot,  who  opened  a  little  tobacco- 
shop  on  the  Boston  turnpike  (now  Chatham 
Street),  in  New  York.  His  snuff  mill,  on  the 
Bronx  River,  made  all  the  animals  sneeze  for 
miles  around  (or  so  the  newspapers  declared). 
The  business  grew  amain,  under  the  command 
of  Pierre  Lorillard,  and  then  his  widow,  and 
then  his  sons,  until  now  in  the  hands  of  his 
grandsons  and  great-grandsons  it  employs 4,000 
persons  in  connection  with  its  enormous  and 
unrivalled  industries,  and  makes  nearly  25,000,- 
ooo  pounds  a  year.  The  structure  in  which  fine-cut  and  smoking  tobacco  and  snuff  are 
made  covers  a  full  city  square,  and  the  plug-tobacco  factory  covers  two  squares.  P.  Loril- 
lard &  Co.  have  experts  in  the  South,  sampling,  buying  and  forwarding  the  crude  tobaccos ; 
and  the  manufactured  articles  are  sent  all  over  the  world,  in  enormous  quantities.  This 
house  has  paid  the  United-States  Government,  in  the  last  25  years,  over  $50,000,000  in  taxes. 
The  Lorillards  look  carefully  after  the  comfort  of  their  operatives,  with  light  and  airy  work- 
rooms, a  library  and  a  dispensary,  and  evening  and  sewing  schools. 

A  wise  philosopher  once  said  "The  love  of  soap  is  the  test  of  civilization,  and  the  love 
of  refined  soap  marks  an  advance  in  culture. "  From 
this  reasonable  point  of  view,  one  of  the  powerful  cul- 
tivating agencies  in  modern  times  is  the  old  and  sub- 
stantial house  of  Colgate  &  Co., — the  unrivalled  fine 
soap  makers  of  America  —  whose  Cashmere  Bouquet 
and  many  other  exquisite  toilet  soaps  and  perfumes 
are  used  in  immense  quantities  all  over  civilized  Amer- 
ica and  Europe.  This  industry  began  in  1806,  on  the 
site  occupied  to-day  by  its  offices,  in  John  Street,  New 
York,  and  its  works  now  cover  an  entire  block  in  Jer- 
sey City,  and  employ  700  hands.  In  Southern  France  JERSEY  CITY  :  COLGATE  &  co. 
alone,  90  tons  of  roses  are  gathered  every  year  for  Colgate  &  Co. ,  to  be  made  up  into  the 
most  delicate  and  fragrant  extracts  and  colognes,  toilet  soaps  and  sachet  powders,  pure 
and  hygienic  in  composition  and  enduring  in  perfume.  These  articles  have  almost  entirely 
supplanted  European  soaps  in  America,  and  have  also  won  great  success  abroad. 

The  oldest  and  largest  bottle-glass  manufacturers  in  America  are  the  Whitney  Glass 
Works,  making  green,  flint,  and  amber  bottles  and  stoppers,  and  bottles  for  proprietary 
medicine-makers,  apothecaries,  stationers,  perfumers  and  bottlers.  This  industry  was 
founded  in  1775,  by  seven  brothers  named  Stanger,  practical  glass-blowers  from  Europe, 

who  foresaw  that  America,  then  on 
the  eve  of  the  long  Revolutionary  War, 
would  need  to  make  her  own  glass- 
ware. At  the  close  of  the  war,  Col. 
Heston,  an  officer  of  the  Continental 
army,  bought  and  enlarged  the  works, 
which  are  now  managed  by  his  great- 
grandsons,  Thos.  W.  Synnott  and  John 
GU88BORO  :  WHITNEY  GLASS-WORKS.  P.  Whitney,  the  former  being  the  presi- 


*.   D.   WOOD   &   CO. 


THE  STATE   OF  NEW  JERSEY. 

dent  and  the  latter  the  treasurer  of  the  com- 
pany. The  works  were  incorporated  in  1887, 
with  a  capital  of  $500,000.  Within  ten  years 
the  plant  has  more  than  trebled  its  production, 
and  now  employs  1,200  hands,  oftentimes  work- 
ing night  and  day.  The  great  factory  at  Glass- 
boro  has  the  five  largest  patent  tank-furnaces 
in  America,  with  protected  working  parts,  mak- 
ing the  metal  more  solid  and  of  a  handsomer 
color  than  the  old  processes  could.  The  com- 
pany also  has  factories  at  Camden  and  Salem,  N.  J.  The  main  offices  and  warehouses  are 
in  Philadelphia,  with  branches  at  New  York  and  Boston,  and  agencies  in  other  cities. 

Southern  New  Jersey  has  the  greatest  American  industry  in  its  special  lines  of  cast-iron 
pipe  and  gas  and  water  apparatus  in  the  foundries  of  R.  D.  Wood  &  Co.,  at  Millville,  Flor- 
ence and  Camden,  employing  1,300  men,  and  making  all  kinds  of  cast-iron  pipe,  fire  hydrants 
and  valves,  gas  machinery,  hydraulic  and  pumping  machinery  and  travelling  cranes,  sugar- 
house  work,  Geyelin's  duplex  turbine-wheels,  large  loam-work,  Eddy  valves,  Matthew's 
fire-hydrants,  lamp-posts  and  other  heavy  appliances.  They  also  design  and  construct  enor- 
mous gas-holders,  either  single-lift  or  telescopic  (without  heavy  supporting  frames),  purifiers, 
condensers,  and  scrubbers.  The  casting  capacity  is  about  600  tons  a  day.  These  articles  are 
sent  all  over  the  United  States  and  Canada,  and  to  Cuba  and  Central  and  South  America. 
San  Diego  and  Tacoma,  Cienfuegos  and  Caracas,  Ottawa  and  Halifax  alike  have  R.  D. 

Wood  &  Co. 's  work.  The  plant  at  Millville  was 
started  by  the  father  of  the  present  owners,  in 
1803,  when  the  heavy  timber  of  South  Jersey  made 
a  charcoal  furnace  possible. 

The  patent  water-tube  steam-boilers  of  the 
Babcock  &  Wilcox  Co.  are  constructed  for  the 
United  States  in  Elizabeth,  and  shipped  from 
there  to  all  parts  of  the  country.  The  inventor  of 
the  principle  of  inclined  water-tubes  connecting 
water-spaces  front  and  rear  with  a  steam  space 
above  was  Stephen  Wilcox,  in  1856.  The  joint  patent  of  George  H.  Babcock  and  S.  Wil- 
cox was  given  in  1867,  the  main  idea  being  to  insure  safety  from  explosion,  but  (as  now 
developed  and  secured  by  upwards  of  100  patents)  also  large  draught  area,  complete  com- 
bustion, thin  heating  surface,  quick  steaming,  great  durability,  and  economy  of  steam. 
Babcock  &  Wilcox  boilers  are  used  by  many  of  the  largest  concerns  in  the  world,  such  as 
Spreckels's,  the  Cardenas,  the  Brooklyn,  and  the  Boston  Sugar  Refineries,  the  Vienna  Im- 
perial Gas  Association,  the  Vienna  Opera  House,  the  Deptford  electrical  plants,  London, 
the  great  "Popp  Co."  in  Paris,  the  Pennsylvania  Steel  Works,  the  New- York  Steam  Co., 
the  Edison  Co.,  the  Hotel  Ponce  de  Leon,  and  many  others,  besides  a  long  list  of  factories 
of  all  kinds.  The  resources  of  the  Babcock  &  Wilcox  Co.  are  above  $1,000,000,  and  their 
sales  in  1890  amounted  to  125,000  horse-power.  This  is  the  preeminent  steam-boiler  manu- 
facturing establishment  in  the  world, 
having  factories  also  in  Scotland, 
France,  Germany  and  Austria.  The 
main  offices  are  in  New  York  and 
London,  and  there  are  numerous 
branch  offices  in  the  United  States, 
and  in  all  parts  of  the  globe,  receiving 
orders  for  these  exceedingly  ingenious 
and  valuable  steam-boilers.  ELIZABETH  :  BABCOCK  &  WILCOX  co. 


MILLVILLE  :    R.    D.    WOOD    A    CO. 


566 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 


EAST  NEWARK  I  HARTSHORN  SHADE-ROLLER  WORKS. 


The  Hartshorn  family  entered 
the  shade-roller  business  in  1850, 
and  in  1864  Stewart  Hartshorn  put 
an  end  to  centuries  of  general  an- 
noyance from  the  old  and  trouble- 
some cord-and-ratchet  devices,  by 
inventing  the  self-acting  pawl-spring 
shade-rollers,  which  are  now  in 
use  all  over  the  civilized  world.  In 
1872  the  business  was  moved  from  New  York  to  a  spacious  new  factory,  built  at  East  New- 
ark for  the  purpose ;  and  when  even  this  large  establishment  became  inadequate  to  supply 
the  demand,  in  spite  of  enlargements,  new  factories  were  erected  at  Muskegon  (Mich.)  and 
Toronto  (Canada).  In  these  works  seven  tenths  of  the  self-acting  shade-rollers  of  the  world 
are  made.  All  along  new  patents  for  many  improvements  have  been  taken  out.  Medals 
have  been  received  at  eight  world's  fairs,  including  the  Philadelphia  Centennial,  Paris,  and 
Barcelona.  Stewart  Hartshorn  was  the  founder  of,  and  is  now  actively  engaged  in  enlarging 
and  building  up  Short  Hills  (N.  J.),  an  ideal  home  village,  where  he  has  great  investments. 
One  of  the  greatest  business  enterprises  which  have  now  entered  upon  their  second  cen- 
tury is  the  Barbour  Bros.  Co.,  founded  in  1774,  and  now  employing  over  5,000  persons  in 
its  mills  at  Lisburn  (Ireland),  Ottensen  (Germany),  and  Paterson,  N.  J.  The  industry  was 
established  in  America  by  Thomas  Barbour,  in 
1854,  and  has  salesrooms  and  storehouses  at  New 
York,  Boston,  Chicago,  Philadelphia,  St.  Louis, 
San  Francisco  and  Montreal,  with  sales  all  over  the 
continent,  amounting  to  $3,000,000  a  year.  The 
Barbour  Irish  flax  threads  are  used  by  boot  and 
shoe  and  harness  makers,  book-binders,  glove- 
makers,  carpet-mills,  clothiers  and  tailors,  fisher- 
men, embroiderers,  and  everyone  needing  linen 
thread.  Two  valuable  specialties  are  the  twines 
made  here  for  harnessing  Jacquard  looms,  and  for 
McKay  machine  sewing.  At  the  Paterson  mills  the  Irish  flax  is  hackled  and  drawn  down 
fine,  twisted  by  women,  tested  and  dyed,  balled  and  wound  on  spools  by  automatic  ma- 
chinery. The  plant  is  said  to  be  double  that  of  any  other  linen-thread  maker  in  the  world. 
One  of  the  most  useful  of  recent  inventions  is  celluloid,  a  tough,  elastic  and  fairly 
hard  material  of  various  colors.  It  is  not  fibrous,  but  homogeneous,  and  grows  harder  by 
age.  The  Celluloid  Company  has  large  works  at  Newark,  where  300  people  are  busied  in 
making  umbrella  handles,  collars  and  cuffs,  mouth-pieces  for  pipes,  manicure  implements, 
and  hundreds  of  familiar  articles,  useful  and  ornamental,  in  imitation  of  amber,  coral,  mal- 
achite, ivory,  tortoise-shell,  and  other  precious 
materials.  The  celluloid  is  as  well  adapted  to 
these  uses  as  the  materials  which  it  exactly  sim- 
ulates, and  more  durable,  besides  being  furnished 
at  a  small  fraction  of  the  cost.  Collars  and  cuffs 
are  made  of  linen,  covered  with  a  thin  coating  of 
pure  white  celluloid.  The  ingenious  processes 
supply  the  people  with  a  vast  variety  of  beautiful 
and  durable  articles,  at  very  low  prices.  The  name 
"Celluloid"  has  been  adopted  by  the  company 
as  its  trade  mark,  and  its  right  to  it  has  been  established  by  the  Courts.  The  Celluloid  Novelty 
Company  retired  from  business  in  1890,  and  was  succeeded  by  the  Celluloid  Co.,  whose 
main  offices  are  in  New-York  City.  '  M.  C.  Lefferts  is  president,  and  F.  R.  Lefferts,  treasurer. 


PATERSON   :     BARBOUR    BROS.    CO. 


NEWARK  :    THE  CELLULOID  CO. 


The  first  white   man  in 

New  Mexico  was  an  officer 

of  the  ill-fated  Florida  ex- 
pedition of  Narvaez,  Cabeza 

de   Vaca,  who  with    three 

companions  crossed  Texas 

and   the  Pueblo  region  in 

1536,  and  reached  Spanish 

Mexico.    Three  years  later, 

Fray  Marcos  de  Nizza  visited  Zuili ;  and  in  1540  Coronado, 
the  governor  of  New  Galicia,  marched  into  New  Mexico, 
and  conquered  many  towns  by  siege  or  assault.  Bands  of 
Franciscans  founded  missions  among  the  savage  tribes,  and 
many  won  the  crown  of  martyrdom.  Their  labors  were 
rewarded  by  the  rise  of  40  churches,  attended  by  36,000 
native  communicants.  The  first  settlement  was  made  by 
Don  Juan  de  Onate,  of  Zacatecas,  who  marched  from  Mex- 
ico in  1598  with  400  Spanish  soldiers  and  130  families. 
The  colony  arose  on  the  north  of  the  Rio  Chama,  and  bore 
the  name  of  San  Gabriel  de  los  Espafioles.  In  1605  the 
present  capital  was  founded,  under  the  name  of  La  Ciudad 
Real  de  la  Santa  Fe  de  San  Francisco.  In  1680  Po-pe  raised 
his  Indian  brethren  in  revolt,  and  drove  the  Spaniards  from 
the  territory.  For  twelve  years  the  Pueblos  defeated  every 
advance  of  the  Spaniards,  but  Gov.  Diego  de  Vargas 
occupied  the  country  with  his  army  in  1692. 

When  Mexico  became  independent,  in  1822,  New  Mex- 
ico was  governed  by  Political  Chiefs,  who,  after  1835,  were 
appointed,  instead  of  elected.  The  latter  innovation,  and  a 
new  direct  taxation,  caused  the  north  to  rise  in  revolt,  and 
the  rebels  defeated  Gov.  Perez,  and  killed  him  and  most 
of  his  officials,  in  1837.  Gen.  Manuel  Armijo  afterwards 
crushed  the  rebellion,  and  held  the  governorship  till  1847, 
when  Kearny's  Army  of  the  West,  marching  900  miles 
across  the  plains,  from  Missouri,  occupied  the  Territory.  New  Mexico  west  of  the  Rio 
Grande  belonged  to  the  region  ceded  by  Mexico  to  the  United  States  in  1848  ;  and  the  part 
east  of  the  Rio  Grande  was  ceded  by  Texas  in  1850.  In  the  latter  year  Congress  organized 


Settled  at San  Gabriel. 

Settled  in 1598 

Founded  by Spaniards. 

Organized  as  a  Territory,  1850 

Population  in  1860,  .  .  .  93, 516 

In  1870, 91,874 

In  1880, 119,565 

White 108,721 

Colored, 10,844 

American-born,  .  .  .  111,514 
Foreign-born,  ....  8,051 

Males, 64,496 

Females, 55,069 

In  1890  (U.  S.  Census),  .  153,593 
Population  to  the  square  mile,  i.o 
Voting  Population  (1880),  .  34,076 
Net  Public  Debt,  ....  $900,000 
Taxable  Property,  .  .  .  $47,000,000 
Area  (square  miles),  .  .  .  122,580 
Delegate  to  Congress,  .  .  i 

Militia  (Disciplined),  .  .  835 

Counties 16 

Post-offices, 262 

Railroads  (miles),  ....  1,324 
Manufactures  (yearly),  .  $1,300,000 

Operatives 600 

Farm  Land  (in  acres),  .  .  631,131 

Farm-Land  Values,      .     $5,500,000 

Farm  Products  (yearly)  $2,000,000 
Public  Schools,  Average 

Daily  Attendance,  .  .  .  12,300 

Newspapers, 47 

Latitude 3i°2o' to  37°  N. 

Longitude,  .  103°  2'  to  109°  2'  W. 
Temperature,  .  .  .  — 15*^10 1150 
Mean  Temperature  (Santa  Fe')  51° 

TEN  CHIEF  PLACES  AND  THEIR   POP- 
ULATIONS.    (Census  of  1890.) 

Santa  Fe, 6,185 

Albuquerque  (New),  ....  3,785 
Las  Vegas, 2,385 


Las  Cruces,  . 
East  Las  Vegas,  . 
Silver  City,  .  .  . 
Albuquerque  (Old), 
Socorro,  .  .  .  . 

Raton, 

Gallup,       .    .    .    . 


-2,34° 
2,312 

2,102 

1,733 
1,601 
1,255 
'•** 


iff. 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 

this  Territory,  covering  New  Mexico,  as  it  now  is; 
Arizona,  north  of  the  Gila ;  Nevada,  up  to  37° ;  and  the 
part  of  Colorado  between  103°,  the  Arkansas  River 
and  the  Rocky  Mountains.  In  1854  the  Mexican  cession 
of  1853  became  part  of  New  Mexico.  The  Colorado  sec- 
tion was  taken  off  in  1861  ;  and  Arizona  and  southern 
Nevada  in  1863. 

The  trade  between  Missouri  and  New  Mexico,  on  the 
SANTA  CRUZ  :  SHRINE  AND  CHURCH.  Santa-Fe  Trail,  began  early  in  this  century  ;  and  the 
freight  was  carried  on  pack-animals  until  1824,  when  mule  and  ox  wagons  ("prairie 
schooners  ")  came  into  use.  Cotton  cloths,  dry-goods,  and  hardware  were  brought  to  the 
Southwest,  and  exchanged  for  Chihuahua  silver  bullion,  New-Mexican  gold-dust,  buffalo- 
robes,  blankets  and  wool.  Up  to  1831  the  American  caravans  started  from  Franklin  (now 
Boonville),  on  the  Missouri ;  and  afterwards  from  Independence.  The  usual  route  was  up 
the  Arkansas,  then  the  Spanish  frontier,  which  was  crossed  400  miles  out,  after  which  the 
trail  led  across  to  the  Cimarron,  and  struck  for  the  great  landmark  of  Wagon  Mound, 
whence  it  passed  Las  Vegas  and  entered  Santa  Fe.  The  800  miles  of  the  journey  outward 
took  70  days ;  the  return  was  made  in  40  days,  flying  light.  The  caravan  left  the  ren- 
dezvous at  Council  Grove  in  May,  and  reached  Santa  Fe  in  July,  starting  back  in  August. 
The  attacks  of  Indians  made  it  necessary  to  send  strong  escorts  of  dragoons,  at  times,  for 
over  $2,000,000  worth  of  goods  were  carried  in  a  single  caravan.  As  early  as  1846  this 
trade  employed  500  men,  400  wagons,  1,700  mules  and  2,ooo  oxen. 

With  singular  loyalty  to  the  Government  that  had 
conquered  them,  the  New-Mexicans  took  up  arms  for 
the  Union,  in  1 86 1.  Kit  Carson,  St.  Vrain  and  other 
gallant  frontiersmen  helped  to  organize  the  Spanish 
volunteers  and  militia,  under  the  Stars  and  Stripes. 
Some  of  the  officers  of  the  old  army  joined  the  South  j 
but  of  the  1,200  regular  soldiers  in  New  Mexico  not  one 
abandoned  his  allegiance.  The  governors,  Rencherand 
Connelly,  and  the  Legislature  stood  fast  for  the  Union  ; 
expunged  the  law  protecting  slavery ;  and  called  out  the  militia  to  defend  the  National 
property.  Early  in  1862  Gen.  H.  F.  Sibley  advanced  with  2,300  Texans,  and  defeated  Col. 
Canby's  larger  Federal  army  at  Valverde,  routing  his  troops  and  taking  their  artillery. 
The  heroic  Texan  infantry  stormed  and  captured  the  regular  battery  with  revolvers.  Among 
the  Union  forces  were  Carson's  First,  Pino's  Second,  Valdez's  Third,  and  parts  of  the  Fourth 
and  Fifth  Regiments  of  New-Mexico  volunteers.  The  Federals  lost  263  men ;  and  a  lofty 
monument  to  these  patriots  adorns  the  Plaza  at  Santa  Fe.  The  Confederates  then  occupied 
Socorro  and  Albuquerque,  and  advanced  northward,  intending  to  seize  the  military  supplies  at 
Fort  Union,  and  to  cut  off  transcontinental  communication  between  California  and  the  East. 
But  Slough's  First  Colorado  (Pike's  Peakers)  and  the  New-Mexican  volunteers  defeated  them 
at  La  Glorieta  (Apache  Pass),  and  they  retreated  down  the  Rio  Grande.  Sibley  occupied 
Santa  Fe  for  a  time ;  but  the  people  were  so  hostile,  and  provisions  so  scanty,  that  he 

retreated  across  the  mountains  and  the  Jornada  del  Muerto 
to  Texas,  having  lost  half  his  army.  Gen.  Carleton's  Cali- 
fornia column,  the  First  and  Fifth  California  Infantry,  the 
First  California  Cavalry,  and  a  regular  battery,  marched  east- 
ward from  Los  Angeles  across  Arizona,  in  1862,  and  occu- 
pied Las  Cruces  and  Mesilla,  advancing  240  miles  into  Texas, 
as  far  as  El  Paso,  Fort  Quitman  and  Fort  Bliss.  This 
strong  occupation  held  New  Mexico  for  the  Union  safely, 
*nd  most  of  the  6,000  local  volunteers  were  disbanded. 


PUEBLO   VILLAGE. 


THE    TERRITORY  OF  NEW  MEXICO, 


569 


SANTA  FE  I    THE  OLDEST  DWELLING 
HOUSE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 


With  the  Atchison  Railroad  came  an  army  of  adventurous 
Americans,  whose  achievements  in  stock-raising  and  farming, 
mining  and  town-building,  aroused  the  Spanish  residents  to 
new  life  and  activity,  and  the  development  of  the  Territory 
has  since  gone  forward  rapidly,  especially  since  the  subju- 
gation of  the  Apaches.  The  uncertainty  as  to  land-titles 
has  worked  against  the  settlement  of  New  Mexico.  The 
United  States,  by  the  treaty  of  Guadalupe  Hidalgo,  agreed 
to  protect  property-holders;  and  io,ocx5,ooo  acres  are  now 
claimed  under  old  Spanish  grants,  but  cannot  be  assured 
until  the  Territory  is  fully  surveyed  and  titles  confirmed. 

The  Name,  Nuevo  Mexico,  was  given  by  Espejo,  one 
of  the  early  Spanish  explorers,  because  of  the  resemblance  of  the  country  to  the  mining  re- 
gions of  Mexico.  It  is  first  met  in  Padre  Rodriguez's  Testimonio,  in  1582-3.  A  popular 
pet  name  is  THE  SUNSHINE  STATE,  or  The  Land  of  Sunshine  and  Silver. 

The  Arms  of  New  Mexico  bear  the  American  eagle,  with  its  olive-branch  and  arrows, 
and  the.  Mexican  eagle,  standing  on  the  cactus  and  strangling  a  serpent.  The  motto  is : 
CRESCIT  EUNDO  :  "It  increases  by  going." 

The  Governors  included  76  Spanish  and  Mexican  nobles  and  gentlemen.  Then  came 
the  American  Territorial  governors:  Charles  Bent,  1846-7;  Lieut. -Col.  J.  M.  Washington 
(military),  1848-9;  Maj.  John  Munroe,  1849-50;  James  S.  Calhoun,  1851-2;  Wm.  Carr 

Lane,  1852-4;  David  Meriwether,  1854-7;  Abra- 
ham Rencher,  1857-61  ;  Henry  Connelly,  1861-5  ; 
Wm.  F.  M.  Arny  (acting),  1865-6;  Robert  B.  Mit- 
chell, 1866-7;  Wm.  A.  Pile,  1869-71;  Marsh  Gid- 
dings,  1871-5;  Samuel  B.  Axtell,  1875-9;  Lewis 
Wallace,  1879-82;  Lionel  A.  Sheldon,  1882-5; 
E.  G.  Ross,  1885-9;  andL.  Bradford  Prince,  1889-93. 
Descriptive. —  New  Mexico  is  larger  than  Great 
Britain  and  Ireland  united,  three  times  as  large  as  all 
New  England,  and  equal  in  area  to  New  York,  Penn- 
sylvania and  Ohio  combined.  Mountain-ranges  trav- 
erse the  Territory,  and  give  diversity  to  its  semi-Oriental  scenery.  The  Sangre-de-Cristo  range 
enters  from  Colorado,  andrunsnearly  to  Santa  Fe,  with  Costilla  Peak,  I2,6i5feet;  TaosPeak, 
13,145;  Mora,  12,020;  Truchas,  13, 150;  Jicarilla,  14,162;  and  Baldy,  12,661.  The  Raton 
Range  runs  eastward  along  the  Colorado  border.  Below  Santa  Fe,  the  Chilili,  Manzano, 
Oscuro,  San  Andreas  and  Organ  Mountains  form  an  almost  continuous  range  on  the  east 
of  the  Rio  Grande,  finally  crossing  the  river  at  El  Paso,  and  entering  Mexico.  In  the  south- 
east are  the  Sacramento,  Jicarilla,  Guadalupe,  and  Hueco  mountains,  and  the  Sierra  Blanca 
and  Sierra  Capitan.  West  of  the  Rio  Grande  line  after  line  of  noble  peaks  swells  up  to  the 
westward  until  the  Carrizo,  Tunicha  and  Chusca  Ranges  form  the  continental  divide  of  the 
Sierra  Madre,  whence  streams  flow  to  the  Gulf  of  California  and  the  Gulf  of  Mex- 
ico. The  plateaus  are  covered  with  wild  gramma 
and  other  grasses,  but  grow  arid  and  desolate 
towards  the  west.  Some  of  these  plains  are  over- 
spread with  sage-brush,  and  others  bear  many 
leagues  of  pifion  and  stunted  cedar.  The  mountains 
rise  from  vast  plateaus  of  lava,  and  are  deeply  gashed 
by  canons,  and  dimpled  by  lovely  park-valleys.  The 
mean  elevation  above  the  sea  is  5,600  feet,  and  2,500 
square  miles  are  more  than  10,000  feet  high.  Fully 
14,000,000  acres  are  in  mountains,  and  4,000,000  TAOS  PUEBLO< 


<TA  FE  ;    CHURCH  OF  SAN  MIGUEL. 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 


are  irreclaimable  deserts,  or  grazing  lands,  leavir 
39,000,000  acres  of  irrigable  domain.  Two  thirds  < 
the  Territory  is  open  for  settlement.  East  of  the  R 
Grande  stretch  frowning  leagues  of  Mai  Pais  (or  "  BJ 
Country"),  covered  with  lava,  volcanic  sand  and  sal 
marshes.  The  Jornada  del  Muerto  (or  "Journey 
Death  ")  is  a  tract  of  90  by  40  miles  in  area,  between  Si 
Marcial  and  Rincon,  surrounded  by  vast  mountain-range 
and  once  sadly  celebrated  for  the  number  of  men  ar 
animals  who  died  of  thirst  on  its  lonely  deserts.  Tl 
ORAIBA  :  EASTERN  COURT.  broad  San-  Augustin  Plains  are  in  the  west ;  and  arour 

Deming  occur  other  level  tracts  of  vast  extent. 

The  Rio  Grande,  "the  Nile  of  the  New  World,"  flows  south  356  miles  through  the  cent 
of  New  Mexico.  After  leaving  the  San-Luis  Park,  it  rushes  through  a  profound  canon 
the  lava-beds,  and  then  follows  a  narrow  valley  to  Fort  Craig,  beyond  which  much  of  i 
course  lies  through  canons  down  to  Rincon.  After  a  dry  summer,  the  Rio  Grande  is  dry  f( 
loo  miles  above  El  Paso,  the  water  having  all  been  taken  out  by  irrigating  ditches.  The  R 
Pecos,  800  miles  long,  is  a  source  of  enrichment  to  the  eastern  counties.  The  Canadu 
River  rises  in  the  Sangre-de-Cristo  Mountains,  and  flows  east  2OO  miles  in  New  Mexic 
There  are  some  fine  farming  lands  in  this  section,  and  in  the  tributary  valleys  of  the  Vern 
ejo  and  Little  Cimarron,  and  in  the  Mora  Valley,  which 
is  65  miles  long  and  five  miles  wide.  The  rivers  of  the 
west,  tributary  to  the  Colorado,  are  the  Gila,  San-Fran- 
cisco and  Zuni,  with  valuable  bottom-lands,  which  also 
appear  along  the  San-Juan,  in  the  far  northwest.  This 
pastoral  country  is  carpeted  with  nutritious  grasses, 
and  the  climate  is  so  mild  that  no  winter-shelter  is 
needed  for  the  flocks.  In  former  times,  cattle  and 
sheep  ranged  the  free  plains  for  leagues,  but  now  in 
many  sections  the  herds  are  confined  to  fenced  tracts. 
The  Great  Plains  enter  on  the  northeast,  and  are  pro- 
longed by  the  famous  Llano  Estacado,  or  Staked  Plain, 
a  treeless  and  waterless  grassy  plateau  of  44,000  square  miles,  nearly  5,000  feet  above  tl 
sea.  In  some  localities  water  cannot  be  found  for  40  miles,  and  the  cattle  drink  but  twi< 
a  week.  The  Staked  Plain  derives  its  name  from  the  stiff  boles  of  the  yucca  plant.  She< 
are  found  in  every  county,  and  numbered  2,000,000  in  1888,  producing  8,000,000  pounds  > 
wool  yearly.  Vast  flocks  are  owned  by  the  Navajo  Indians.  In  the  old  days,  a  million  shet 
were  driven  hence  to  Mexico  every  year,  and  sold  for  25  cents  a  head  ;  but  now  they  are  sei 
to  the  States,  and  bring  $2  each.  They  are  small  and  coarse-wooled,  and  feed  on  gramn 
and  bunch  grasses  and  sage-brush.  With  the  occupation  of  large  areas  by  immigrants,  tl 

cattle-ranges  have  been  restricted,  but  the  number  i 

cattle  has  steadily  increased,  and  is  now  estimated  : 
above  1,200,000. 

New  Mexico  has  an  abundant  supply  of  timber,  tl 
tall,  straight  pines  of  the  highlands,  the  cottonwoo< 
and  quaking  aspens,  cedars  and  oaks,  walnuts  an 
maples,  and  others.  The  higher  mountains  bear  gres 
forests  of  evergreens.  The  goblin-like  yucca  palm  < 
the  deserts  is  valuable  for  paper-making. 

The  Climate  is  remarkably  dry,  salubrious  an 
bracing,  with  an  atmosphere  of  great  clearness  an 
WOLPI  :  DANCERS'  ROCK.  purity.     Meat  hung  up  outdoors  dries  without  tain 


THE  MESA  :    THE  SITE  OF  ZUNI. 


THE    TERRITORY  OF  NEW 

Santa  Fe  sometimes  experiences  as  cold  weather  in 
winter  as  New  York,  because  it  is  higher  than  the  top 
of  Mt.  Washington.  The  towns  farther  south  are  lower, 
and  hence  much  warmer.  There  is  a  period  between 
mid-July  and  mid-September,  when  the  sunny  mornings 
are  followed  by  long  showery  afternoons.  Snow  rarely 
visits  the  lowlands;  and  the  general  rainfall  on  the 
plains,  of  from  eight  to  22  inches,  is  inadequate  for 
farming  purposes.  There  are  fewer  deaths  here  from 
tubercular  diseases  than  anywhere  else  in  the  United 
States.  The  hot  days  of  the  lowlands  are  not  debili-  A  MOQUI  VILLAGE. 

tating,  on  account  of  their  dryness,  and  are  followed  by  cool  and  bracing  nights.  The  climate 
is  healing  for  people  with  consumption,  asthma,  bronchitis,  Bright's  disease  and  general  de- 
bility; but  aggravates  rheumatism,  catarrh  and  heart-disease.  Almost  any  variety  of  temper- 
ature maybe  found  by  changing  altitude,  from  the  Italy  of  the  valleys  to  the  Norway  of  the 
Sierras.  The  air  is  so  clear  that  it  is  difficult  to  estimate  the  distances  of  visible  objects. 

Farming. —  The  narrow  valleys  of  the  Rio  Grande,  San- Juan,  Pecos,  Canadian  and 
other  rivers  are  dowered  with  arable  land  of  unusual  fertility,  prolific  in  grain  and  vegeta- 
bles. The  fruits  are  famous  for  their  extraordinary  size  and  beauty,  and  include  vast  quan- 
tities of  grapes,  peaches,  apples,  apricots,  pears,  melons,  and  quinces.  The  yearly  product 
of  wine  exceeds  240,000  gallons.  The  Mesilla  Valley,  70  miles  long,  is  one  of  the  richest 

farming  countries  in  the  world,  especially  for  grains, 
fruits  and  grapes.  The  temperature  never  descends  be- 
low 1 5°,  and  snow  seldom  falls,  and  never  remains.  The 
valleys  are  composed  of  a  rich  sandy  loam,  light  and 
porous,  and  very  productive  of  corn,  wheat,  barley,  oats 
.and  vegetables.  The  onions  and  sweet  and  white  pota- 
toes are  prodigious  in  size,  and  cabbages  sometimes 
weigh  60  pounds  each.  Beans  grow  so  profusely  as  to 
form  the  chief  diet.  The  cereal  crop  of  New  Mexico  is 
greater  than  those  of  Colorado  or  Montana. 
Mining.  —  The  New-Mexican  output  of  bullion  is  continually  increasing.  In  1886  it 
was  $3, 822,  ooo;  in  1887,  $4,229,000;  in  1888,  $6,220,600;  in  1889,  $8,110,000.  Precious 
metals  are  found  in  the  hill  country,  and  were  extensively  mined  by  the  Spaniards,  until 
1680,  when  the  victorious  Pueblos  filled  up  all  the  shafts.  The  Moreno  gold  placers  of 
Elizabethtown  produced  much  treasure ;  and  the  region  of  Pinos  Altos  and  Silver  City,  in 
the  southwest,  has  also  been  generous.  Gold-mines  are  worked  at  many  points,  but  chiefly 
from  placers,  and  there  are  large  milling  and  smelting  plants.  Silver  and  lead  are  mined 
at  Kingston,  Magdalena,  Cerrillos,  Cook's  Peak,  and  Sierra  Blanca.  The  ores  are  less  rich, 
but  also  less  refractory,  than  those  of  Colorado.  The  extensive  coal-fields  of  Los  Cerrillos 
supply  localities  as  far  away  as  Missouri  and  Mex- 
ico, with  valuable  anthracite,  and  produce  bitumi- 
nous coal  also.  In  the  vicinity  are  promising 
deposits  of  iron,  copper,  lead,  zinc  and  silver. 
White  Oaks  has  contiguous  deposits  of  coal  and 
iron,  with  gold  and  other  valuable  minerals.  The 
Gallup  coal-mines  produce  300,000  tons  a  year. 
There  are  coal-mines  at  Blossburg  and  Amargo, 
in  the  north,  and  at  San  Pedro,  near  Santa  Fe. 
The  copper-mines  at  San  Pedro  have  produced  at 
the  rate  of  $700,000  a  year,  and  there  are  valua- 
able  deposits  at  Santa  Rita.  Elsewhere  are  found  .  CHAMITA  :  OLD  MILL. 


ALBUQUERQUE  :  THE  CATHEDRAL  AND  PLAZA. 


572 


RATON  AND  ITS  SURROUNDINGS. 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE   UNITED   STATES. 

marl  and  gypsum,  zinc  and  manganese,  with 
lead  in  the  Organ  Mountains,  iron  at  Pinos 
Altos  and  Embudo,  copper  in  the  Mogollon, 
Manzano  and  Picuris  Mountains,  and  tin  in 
Rio  -  Arriba  County.  The  close-grained  red 
sandstone  of  the  Rio-Grande  Valley  affords  a 
handsome  building  material ;  and  there  are  val- 
uable deposits  of  limestone,  marble  and  slate. 
The  turquoise-mines,  25  miles  south  of  Santa 
Fe,  were  worked  during  the  Spanish  occupation, 
and  the  handsomest  turquoise  in  Europe  (now  in  the  regalia  of  Spain)  came  from  this 
wilderness. 

The  Las-Vegas  Hot-Springs  bubble  out  on  a  plateau  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  6,767  feet 
high,  and  have  been  used  as  a  health-resort  since  1846.  The  great  Montezuma  Hotel  has 
been  replaced  by  the  Phoenix  Hotel,  one  of  the  finest  in  the  West.  There  are  40  springs, 
the  hottest  being  130°;  and  the  mineral  constituents  include  chlorides,  sulphates,  and  car- 
bonates of  sodium,  calcium  and  magnesium.  The  baths  are  of  various  kinds,  mud,  medicated 
and  others,  in  a  spacious  red-granite  bath-house  ;  and  people  also  drink  the  waters  freely. 
Benefit  is  derived  by  sufferers  from  rheumatism,  gout,  skin  diseases,  debility,  and  othei 
maladies.  The  winters  are  mild,  dry  and  windless ;  and  the  noble  scenery  of  mountain  and 
plain,  the  attractions  for  hunters  and  anglers,  and  the  strange  traditions  of  the  Mexican 
country  afford  a  variety  of  interest.  Among  the  other  hot  springs  with  hotels  and  accommo- 
dations are  the  Ojo  Caliente,  Jemez,  San  Antonio,  Hudson's  Hot  Springs,  Baca's  Soda 
Springs,  and  the  Aztec  mineral  spring,  near  Santa  Fe. 

Government. —  The  governor  and  secretary  are  appointed  by  the  President.  The  council 
of  twelve  and  the  house  of  representatives  of  24  members  make  up  the  legislature  (usuallj 
Republican),  elected  biennially.  The  legislature  is  almost  entirely  composed  of  natives, 
naturally  eloquent  and  naturally  economical,  and  33  out  of  36  of  them  understanding  the 
English  language.  There  are  six  territorial  officials,  and  groups  of  minor  county  officials. 
The  Supreme  Court  has  four  justices,  and  there  are  also  probate  and  district  courts.  The 
new  Territorial  Capital  at  Santa  Fe  was  erected  at  a  cost  of  $250,000,  and  is  of  buff  sand- 
stone. The  Territorial  Library  contains  10,000  volumes.  The  New-Mexican  Printing  Co. 
at  Santa  Fe  publishes  the  oldest  newspaper  between  the  upper  Arkansas  and  Colorado  Rivers: 
prints  the  territorial  laws  in  English  and  Spanish  ;  and  has  a  book-bindery.  There  are  three 
Spanish  papers  published  at  Santa  Fe,  one  at  Taos,  and  one  at  Las  Vegas.  The  28th  Legis- 
lative Assembly  created  the  following  institutions,  and  levied  taxes  for  their  support :  The 
Agricultural  College,  near  Las  Cruces  (now  open) ;  the  School  of  Mines,  at  Socorro ;  the 
University  of  New  Mexico,  at  Albuquerque ;  and  the  Insane  Asylum,  at  Las  Vegas.  The 
New-Mexico  School  for  the  Deaf 
and  Dumb  is  at  Santa  Fe,  where 
there  is  also  a  Territorial  hospital, 
and  the  penitentiary. 

The  United-States  army  posts  are 
Fort  Bayard,  with  six  companies  ; 
Forts  Union  and  Wingate,  five  com- 
panies each ;  Fort  Stanton,  and 
Fort  Selden,  three  companies  each. 
The  headquarters  of  the  military 
district  is  at  Santa  F6,  where  the 
infantry  band  makes  pleasant  music 
on  the  plaza.  The  garrisons  in- 
clude 1,500  men.  8ANTA  FE  FROM  THE  COLLEGE. 


THE    TERRITORY  OF  NEW  MEXICO. 


573 


SANTA  FE  :    RAMONA  INDIAN  SCHOOL 


Education  is  backward,  but  a  strong  and  rising  pop- 
ular sentiment  has  insured  a  vigorous  enforcement  of  the 
laws,  and  a  careful  expenditure  of  the  school-taxes. 
Of  the  schools,  150  are  English  and  120  Spanish.  The 
Catholic  colleges  at  Mora,  Las  Vegas,  Taos  and  Santa 
Fe  have  600  students ;  and  the  Congregational  (New 
West)  academies  at  Albuquerque,  Deming,  Santa  Fe 
and  Las  Vegas  have  400.  Santa-Fe  Academy  is  Pres- 
byterian ;  and  Tiptonville  Institute  and  Albuquerque  College  are  Methodist.  The  Ramona 
Indian  School  (for  Apaches)  at  Santa  Fe  is  aided  by  the  United- States  Government.  The 
building  was  designed  by  Stanford  White,  and  is  a  memorial  of  Helen  Hunt  Jackson.  The 
Catholic  Church  has  a  score  of  schools,  the  Presbyterians  have  25,  and  others  pertain  to  the 
Methodists.  St.  -Joseph's  Catholic  School,  with  60  Pueblo  children,  is  partly  supported  by 
the  Government,  which  also  has  industrial  schools  for  Indians  at  Santa  Fe  and  Albuquerque. 
It  is  natural  that  in  this  venerable  Spanish  province  the  Catholic  Church  has  a  predom- 
inant power,  with  handsome  churches,  profitable  ranches  and  fruit-estates,  and  many  hos- 
pitals and  schools,  conducted  by  Sisters  of  Charity,  Sisters  of  Loretto,  Christian  Brothers, 
and  Jesuits.  The  ruins  of  the  churches  of  San  Diego  and  San  Joseph  are  still  visible  near 
Jemez,  after  280  years ;  and  the  walls  of  the  great  stone  churches  of  Abo,  Cuaray  and  Ta- 
bira,  built  before  1640,  tower  over  the  salt  lagoons  of  Manzano.  The  austere  secret  fraternity 
of  the  Penitentes  still  amazes  Eastern  tourists  with  the  periodical  self-mortifications  of  its 
adherents,  and  defies  the  attempts  of  the  Catholic  Church  to  exterminate  it.  Archbishop 
Lamy  has  nobly  elevated  the  morals  and  education  of  the  clergy  from  the  time  of  his  entry. 
There  are  active  presses  at  Santa  Fe,  Las  Vegas  and  Albuquerque,  printing  many  devo- 
tional and  other  books,  in  the  Spanish  language.  El Creptisculo  ("The  Dawn"),  published 
at  Taos  in  1835,  was  the  only  newspaper  in  New  Mexico  before  the  American  conquest. 

The  Population  includes  100,000  Mexicans,  with  a  highly  educated  and  progressive 
aristocracy  ancl  a  poorer  class  rising  slowly  in  comfort  and  ability.  The  recent  enormous 
increase  in  the  value  of  their  farm-products  has  enabled  these  people  to  improve  their  homes, 
clothing  and  stock.  They  are  contented  and  unambitious,  but  generous,  hospitable  and 
agreeable.  The  semi-civilized  Pueblo  race  has  for  several  centuries  occupied  the  fertile 
valleys  of  the  northwest,  with  their  communal  houses  of  stone  and  adobe.  They  were  once 
a  numerous  people,  with  villages  also  in  Arizona  and  Chihuahua,  Colorado  and  Utah ;  but 
a  series  of  droughts  and  pestilences,  and  wars  with  the  Apaches  and  the  Spaniards,  reduced 
them  to  a  shadow  of  their  former  greatness.  The  Pueblos  still  occupy  the  oldest  towns  in 
America,  and  are  a  gentle,  honest  and  industrious  race  of  farmers.  The  native  pottery,  cot- 
ton and  woolen  clothing  and  blankets  and  other  primitive  manufactures  are  ingenious  and 
interesting.  The  8,000  Pueblos  dwell  in  19  villages,  owning  906,000  acres  of  land  by  an 
absolute  title,  with  many  thousand  horses,  cattle  and  sheep,  and  productive  farms.  Of  late 

years,  since  American  law  pacified  the  country,  many  of 
them  have  abandoned  their  fortress-villages,  and  dwell  on 
their  farms,  wearing  modern  clothing,  using  the  latest  agri- 
cultural tools,  and  educating  their  children  in  the  schools. 
They  have  also  built  roads,  bridges  and  canals.  One  in  15 
of  them  can  speak  a  little  English,  but  nearly  all  are  familiar 
with  Spanish.  The  Pueblo  villages  at  the  time  of  the 
Spanish  occupation  were  single  huge  buildings  of  adobe  or 
stone,  perched  on  high  and  defensive  ground,  sometimes 
surrounding  hollow  squares,  and  composed  of  a  great  num- 
ber of  rooms,  with  larger  council- halls.  The  lower  stories 
had  no  doors  nor  windows,  and  the  upper  stories  were 
SANTA  FE  :  THE  CATHEDRAL.  visited  only  by  ladders.  Each  village  is  ruled  by  an  elective 


574 


KING^S  HANDBOOK   OF    THE    UNITED   STATES. 


governor  and  three  other  officers.  The  25,000  Navajoes  own  8,000,000  acres,  but  do  very 
little  farming,  preferring  to  earn  money  by  selling  horses  and  wool.  They  are  famous  for 
the  fine  blankets  which  they  weave,  and  for  the  skill  of  their  silver-smiths.  Their  wonder- 
ful Fire  Dances  form  the  most  interesting  of  Indian  ceremonials.  There  are  two  tribes  of 
Apaches  here  :  800  Jicarillas,  near  Amargo,  in  the  north ;  and  500  Mescaleros. 

Chief  Towns. —  Santa  Fe  occupies  a  mountain-walled  basin,  20  miles  from  the  Rio 
Grande,  and  7,019  feet  above  the  sea,  with  a  delightful  climate.  One  half  of  the  inhabitants 
are  Mexicans,  dwelling  in  low  adobe  houses,  on  narrow  little  streets.  The  Plaza  has  shops 
on  three  sides,  and  on  the  other  the  ancient  Palacio  del  Gobernador  (the  seat  of  government 
since  1680),  a  long,  low,  white  adobe  building.  Part  of  the  old  palace  is  used  by  the  His- 
torical Society  of  New  Mexico ;  and  in  one  of  the  rooms  Lew  Wallace  wrote  the  famous 
novel  Ben  Hur.  Las  Vegas,  with  its  horse-cars  and  telephones,  foundries  and  railroads, 
colleges  and  churches,  is  an  active  city,  and  hopes  to  rival  Denver.  Albuquerque  has  two 
daily  papers,  street-cars,  six  churches,  railroad  machine-shops  employing  2,000  men,  and  a 
central  place  in  the  great  Rio-Grande  Valley,  with  a  valuable  trade  in  corn  and  wine,  wool 
and  gold.  Socorro  is  devoted  to  mining ;  Silver  City,  to  smelting  and  reducing  works  ;  Las 
Cruces,  to  fruit-raising  and  farming  ;  and  Deming,  to  mining  and  stock-shipping. 

The  Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa-Fe  Railroad  and  the  Southern  Pacific  Railroad  traverse 
the  entire  Territory,  from  east  to  west.  The  Denver,  Texas  &  Fort-Worth  line  crosses  the 
northeast,  and  the  Denver  &  Rio-Grande  has  many  miles  of  track  in  the  north. 

Irrigation. —  At  certain  seasons  the  Rio  Grande  floods  down  the  valley  with  devastating 
power,  and  carries  off  enough  water  to  have  irrigated  all  summer  long  its  vast  water-shed. 
Plans  are  being  matured  for  a  system  of'wing-dams,  storage-basins  and  canals,  to  save  and 
distribute  the  waters  ;  and  many  large  and  costly  irrigating  ditches  are  in  operation. 

The  great  canals  of  the  Pecos  Irrigation  &  Investment  Co.,  built  in  1889-91,  distribute 
the  perennial  waters  of  the  Pecos  River,  stored  behind  Cyclopean  stone  dams,  over  200,000 
acres  of  rich  land.  The  canals  are  nearly  100  miles  long,  with  laterals  at  every  mile  or  so, 
opening  into  smaller  channels.  The  company  has  a  capital  of  $1,000,000,  -and  owns  no 

land,  confining  itself 
to  distributing  water, 
selling  its  water- 
rights  at  $  I  o  an  acre, 
with  a  yearly  water  - 
rental  of  $1.25 
for  each  acre.  The 
operating  headquar- 
ters is  at  Eddy, 
named  in  honor  of 
Charles  E.  Eddy, 
the  prime  mover  in 
this  enterprise. 
Here  in  two  years 
has  risen  a  town  of 

GREAT  DAM  AND  CANAL,  AND  TOWN  OF  EDDY.    PECOS  IRRIGATION  AND  INVESTMENT  CO.  yOO    p  6  O  p  1  6,    four 

churches,  several  stores,  and  commodious  bank  and  hotel  buildings.  Thousands  of  acres  in 
the  valley  have  lately  passed  under  cultivation,  and  produce  unsurpassed  fruits  and  vines, 
grains  and  vegetables.  The  company's  dam  across  the  Pecos  is  of  rock,  1,050  feet  long, 
and  181  feet  wide  at  the  base,  and  backs  up  the  water  for  several  miles.  The  enormous  head- 
gates  controlling  the  flow  of  water  are  raised  or  lowered  by  screws,  and  the  main  canal  issues 
with  a  depth  of  seven  feet  and  a  width  of  over  45  feet.  These  invaluable  irrigation  works 
will  make  the  Pecos  Valley  one  of  the  greatest  fruit  regions  and  vineyards  of  the  world  ;  and 
the  new  railroads  are  opening  up  vast  areas  of  exceptionally  fertile  and  picturesque  lands. 


EW6R 


"To-day,  in  the  sisterhood 
of  States,  she  is  an  Empire  in 
all  that  constitutes  a  great  com- 
monwealth. An  industrious, 
intelligent,  and  prosperous 
population  of  five  millions  of 
people  live  within  her  borders. 
In  the  value  of  her  farms  and 
farm-products,  and  in  her 
manufacturing  industries,  she 
the  Union.  She  sustains  over  1,000 
has  $80,000,000  invested 


1893), 


is  the  first  State  in 
newspapers    and    periodicals, 

in  church  property,  and  spends  $12,000,000  a  year  upon 
popular  education.  Upward  of  300  academies  and  colleges 
fit  her  youth  for  special  professions,  and  furnish  opportuni- 
ties for  liberal  learning  and  the  highest  culture;  and  stately 
edifices  all  over  the  State,  dedicated  to  humane  and  benevo- 
lent objects,  exhibit  the  permanence  and  extent  of  her  or- 
ganized charities.  There  are  $600,000,000  in  her  savings- 
banks;  $300,000,000  in  her  insurance  companies,  and 
$700,000,000  in  the  capital  and  loans  of  her  State  and 
National  Banks.  Six  thousand  miles  of  railroads,  costing 
$600,000,000,  have  penetrated  and  developed  every  acces- 
sible corner  of  the  State,  and  maintain  against  all  rivalry 
and  competition  her  commercial  prestige." — HON.  CHAUN- 
CEY  M.  DEPEW. 

Before  the  advent  of  the  Europeans,  the  territory  from 
the  Catskills  to  Lake  Erie,  including  also  part  of  northern 
Pennsylvania,  belonged  to  the  powerful  Iroquois  Confeder- 
acy, the  Mohawks,  resting  along  the  Hudson  ;  the  Oneidas ; 
the  Onondagas,  with  the  national  capital,  near  the  site  of 
Syracuse ;  the  Cayugas ;  and  the  Senecas,  guarding  the 
western  frontier.  These  were  the  Five  Nations  of  the 
ancient  explorers,  which  afterwards  became  the  Six  Na- 
tions, by  the  addition  of  the  Tuscarora  tribe,  from  North  Carolina.  Each  of  the  tribes  had 
several  hereditary  sachems  (the  national,  council,  including  50  sachems),  and  retained  the 
rights  of  self-government,  the  federal  union  being  mainly  for  military  protection  and  con- 


STATISTICS. 

Settled  at  .  .  New  York  City. 

Settled  in  .......     1613 

Founded  by    ...  Dutchmen. 

One  of  the  Original  13  States. 
Population  in  1860,  .     .  3,880,735 

In  1870,    ......  4,382,759 

In  1880,    .....       5,082,871 

White,      ...          .       5,016,022 

Colored,   .....  66,849 

American-born,     .     .       3,871,492 
Foreign-born,    .     .     .       1,211,379 
Males,      ......  2,505,322 

Females,       .....  2,577,549 

In  1890  (U.  S.  Census),     .  5,997,853 
Population  to  the  square  mile,    106.7 
Voting  Population,      .     .     .  1,408,751 
Vote  for  Harrison  (1888),       648,969 
Vote  for  Cleveland  (1888),     635,835 
Net  State  Debt  .....      None. 

Assessed  Valuation  of 
Property  (in  1890),      $3,775,000,000 
49,170 


Area  (square  milesl,  .     .     . 
U.  S.  Representatives  (in  1 
Militia  (Disciplined),      .     .       13,5 
Counties,   .......  60 

Post-offices,   ......         3,506 

Railroads  (miles),  ....         7,661 

Vessels,      .......         5,258 

Tonnage  .......  1,136,154 

Manufactures  (yearly),  $1,080,638,696 
Operatives,      .....     531,473 

Yearly  Wages,     .     .      $198,634,029 

Farm  Land  (in  acres),     .     23,780,754 

Farm-Land  Values,    $1,056,176,741 

Farm  Products  (yearly)  $178,025,695 

Public  Schools,  Average 

Daily  Attendance,  .     .     .     637,487 
Newspapers  ......         i,95o 

Latitude.  .  4o°29'4o"  to  45°o'42//  N. 
Longitude,  7i°5i'  to  79°45'54/'  W. 
Temperature,  .  .  .  —23°  to  100° 
Mean  Temperature  (Albany),  48° 


ULATIONS  (CENSUS  OF 

New  York, 

Brooklyn,      .          .     . 

Buffalo 

Rochester, 
Albany,    .... 
Syracuse,  ..-..- 

Troy 

Utica,  .... 
Binghamton,  . 
Yonkers, 


TAPPAN  : 
HOUSE    WHERE    MAJOR    ANDRE   WAS   TRIED. 


576  KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

quest.  Collectively,  they  called  themselves  "The  People 
of  the  Long  House,"  whose  eastern  door  was  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Mohawk,  and  its  western  door  at  the  Falls  of  Ni- 
agara. They  also  spoke  of  themselves  as  Ongwe-Honwe, 
"Men  surpassing  all  others";  and  deduced  their  origin 
from  the  serpent-haired  god,  Atotarho,  and  their  con- 
federate power  frpm  Hiawatha,  an  Onondaga  demi-god. 
Many  other  celestial  traditions  were  woven  about  their 
early  history.  The  Iroquois  built  frame  cabins  and  strong 
defensive  works  ;  tilled  broad  fields ;  made  stone  axes  and 
knives ;  tanned  leather ;  baked  pottery ;  wore  moccasins  of  deer-skin  and  shoes  of  elk- 
hide  ;  and  made  ropes  and  baskets  of  bark,  domestic  implements  of  carved  wood,  armor  of 
leather,  money  of  sea-shells,  and  smoking-pipes  of  stone.  Although  they  numbered  but 
12,000  souls,  with  2,400  warriors  (1,200  of  whom  were  Senecas),  their  land  was  the  Empire 
State  of  America,  then,  as  now,  for  their  indomitable  war-parties  swept  victoriously  alike 
through  New  England  and  Canada,  Pennsylvania  and  the  Ohio  Valley,  and  from  Nova 
Scotia  to  the  mouth  of  the  Mississippi.  If  the  Europeans  had  not  dis- 
covered America  for  another  century,  the  Five  Nations  might  have  per- 
manently subjugated  all  the  Eastern  tribes. 

The  Iroquois  had  a  well-defined  religion,  with  the  Great  Spirit  as  its 
head  ;  and  believed  in  immortality  in  the  happy  hunting-grounds.  They 
respected  woman  ;  honored  matrimony  and  the  family ;  cherished  chil- 
dren and  aged  people  ;  and  practiced  a  chivalric  hospitality.  They 
were  natural  orators  and  diplomatists  ;  and  in  time  this  wonderful 
confederacy  became  the  shield  of  English  civilization  in  America,  _  '~ 
defending  it  with  Roman  courage  against  the  French  and  their 
Indian  allies.  Queen  Anne  received  five  of  their  sachems  at  Lon- 
don, in  1710,  with  high  honor;  and  Virginia,  Pennsylvania,  Con- 
necticut, Massachusetts,  and  New  York  made  treaties  with  the 
great  council,  securing  gradually,  by  purchase  and  cession,  emi- 
nent domain  over  all  their  territory.  Dwelling  now  upon  their 
reservations  they  number  almost  as  many  as  in  the  glorious  days  SARATOGA  BATTLE  MONUMENT. 
of  their  sovereignty,  and  are  increasing.  Most  of  the  Mohawks  and  Tuscaroras  and  a  few 
Oneidas  dwell  in  Canada  ;  and  1, 700  Oneidas  are  at  Green  Bay,  Wisconsin.  The  5, 304  Indi- 
ans now  on  reservations  in  New  York  include  2, 700  Senecas,  540  Onondagas,  400  Tusca- 
roras, 200  Cayugas,  and  300  Oneidas,  besides  1,100  of  the  St. -Regis  tribe,  and  100  others. 
Long  Island  was  occupied  by  13  small  tribes  of  Indians  —  the 
Montauks,  Jamekos,  Matinecocks,  Shinnecocks,  and  others  —  of  whom 
a  few  score  still  remain,  on  the  eastern  point.  There  were  other  inde- 
pendent tribes  on  Manhattan  and  along  the  lower  Hudson. 

The  discoverer  of  the  sea-coast  of  New  York  was  Henry  Hudson, 
an  English  captain,  in  the  service  of  the  Dutch  East-India  Company, 
who  sailed  from  the  Texel,  in  the  go-ton  vessel,  Half  Moon,  in  the 
year  1609.  He  explored  various  points,  from  Greenland  to  the  Caro- 
linas,  and  then  sailed  into  the  noble  harbor  of  Manhattan.  After  as- 
cending the  Hudson  to  Albany,  in  the  hope  that  it  was  the  long-sought 
Northwest  Passage,  the  intrepid  discoverer  returned  to  Manhattan, 
and  thence  to  England.  He  met  with  a  kindly  welcome  from  most  of 
the  Indians  whom  he  visited  at  several  points  on  the  river.  Various 
Amsterdam  merchants  sent  out  the  Fortune  and  Tiger,  in  1612,  to 
NEW  YORK  STATUE  OF  trade  witn  the  Manhattan  natives  for  furs,  and  made  great  profits.  But 
ADMIRAL  FARRAQUT.  in  1613  the  Tiger  was  burnt,  while  preparing  to  sail  back  to  Holland, 


SCHUYLERVILLE  : 


TARRYTOWN  I     OLD    DUTCH    CHURCH 
IN    SLEEPY    HOLLOW. 


THE  STATE   OF  NEW  YORK. 

and  her  crew,  under  Adriaen  Block,  passed  the  winter  at  Man- 
hattan, in  log  huts,  and  built  another  vessel,  the  Onrust,  with 
which  they  explored  the  New-England  coast,  and  then  fared 
homeward  to  the  Low  Countries.  Other  knights-errant  of 
commerce  erected  fortified  trading-posts  at  Manhattan  and 
Fort  Nassau  (Albany),  in  1614 ;  and  in  the  same  year  the  States 
General  of  Holland  issued  a  charter  to  a  company  of  Amster- 
dam and  Hoorn  merchants,  covering  the  region  between 
Virginia  and  New  France,  and  naming  it  New  Netherland. 
The  colonists  met  the  Iroquois  chiefs  at  Tawasentha,  and 
made  a  treaty  of  amity,  which  endured  for  over  100  years. 
The  Dutch  West-India  Company  was  organized  in  1623,  with 
vast  powers  and  prerogatives,  and  forthwith  sent  out  the  ship  New  Netherland,  with  1 10 
Walloon  colonists,  who  reached  Manhattan  in  May,  1623.  The  English  laid  claim  to  this 
region,  because  the  discoverer  was  an  Englishman,  but  their  demands  were  placidly  ignored  ; 
and  then  France  also  sent  over  a  ship  to  take  possession,  but  the  artillery  of  the  Dutch  ves- 
sel Mackerel  drove  her  out  to  sea.  The  Walloons  scattered  in  groups  over  the  country,  some 
at  Breuckelen  (Brookland,  now  Brooklyn),  others  at  Kingston,  Albany,  and  Hartford,  and 
on  the  Delaware.  After  the  annual  directorships  of  May  and  Verhulst,  Peter  Minuit  came 
over  on  the  Sea  Mew,  and  became  the  first  governor,  purchasing  Manhattan  Island  from  the 
natives  for  $24,  and  erecting  New  Netherland  into  a  province  of  Holland.  Then  followed 
the  fortification  of  the  town,  and  the  wars  with  the  neighboring  Indians. 

The  order  of  patroons  came  into  being  in  1629,  and  imposed  on  the  Hudson  Valley  a 
line  of  feudal  chieftains,  Van  Rensselaer,  Pauw,  DeVries,  Godyn,  and  other  Dutch  gentle- 
men. The  Swedes  menaced  the  colony  on  the  south,  and  the  Puritans  on  the  east,  and  the 
Indians,  enraged  at  repeated  deadly  forays  by  the  Dutch  troops,  swept  the  outer  settlements 
into  ruin.  Then  came  over  as  governor,  the  gallant  soldier,  Peter  Stuyvesant,  with  his 
silver-mounted  wooden  leg  ;  and  inaugurated  a  wise,  honest  and  despotic  rule,  visiting  also 
the  New-Englanders  and  Swedes,  and  conciliating  the  Indians.  He  named  the  capital  of 
his  colony  New  Amsterdam,  and  defended  it  by  a  palisade  along  Wall  Street.  In  1664  a 
British  fleet  and  army  took  possession  of  the  town  (then  numbering  1,500  inhabitants). 
Nine  years  later,  a  Dutch  fleet  of  23  vessels  recaptured  it,  but  it  was  restored  to  England  a  few 
months  later  ;  and  Sir  Edmond  Andros  ruled  the  conquered  province  with  vigor  for  nine 
years.  Meanwhile,  the  French,  under  Frontenac  and  the  Marquis  de  Denonville,  Viceroy 
of  Canada,  were  campaigning  against  the  Five  Nations,  and  fought  many  a  hard  battle  in 
interior  New  York.  At  last,  in  the  dead  of  the  winter  of  1690,  200  Frenchmen  and 
Canadian  Indians  attacked  the  Dutch  village  of  Schenectady,  and  massacred  63  persons. 
New  York  and  New  England  and  the  Iroquois  assailed 
Canada  by  land  and  water,  but  were  repulsed  by  the 
valiant  Frontenac,  who  dealt  heavy  return  blows  in  the 
Mohawk  Valley,  and  at  Onondaga  Lake.  These  bor- 
der-wars lasted  for  many  years. 

Some  of  the  most  tragic  events  of  the  last  French 
War  (1754-60),  occurred  on  the  New- York  frontier, 
where  the  French  occupied  Fort  Ticonderoga,  on  Lake 
George  ;  Fort  Frontenac  (Kingston),  on  the  St.  Law- 
rence ;  and  Niagara ;  while  the  English  held  Fort  Ed- 
ward, on  the  upper  Hudson,  and  Oswego.  In  1755, 
Sir  William  Johnson  crushed  Baron  Dieskau's  army, 
near  Lake  George ;  but  a  year  later  France  destroyed 
Oswego  ;  and  in  1757,  her  troops  captured  Fort  William  |RV|NGTON 
Henry  (on  Lake  George),  whose  garrison  was  massacred 


SUNNYSIDE,  THE    HOME    OF  WASH- 
INGTON   IRVING. 


LAKE    GEORGE. 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

by  the  Indians.  The  next  year  saw  Col.  Brad- 
street's  reduction  of  Fort  Frontenac ;  but  Lord 
Abercrombie  and  his  magnificent  army  of  15,000 
men  suffered  defeat,  in  an  assault  on  Fort  Ticon- 
deroga.  In  1759  the  French  were  forever  swept 
away  from  the  frontiers,  Johnson  occupying  Ni- 
agara, and  Lord  Amherst's  army  taking  the  aban- 
doned fortresses  of  Ticonderoga  and  Crown  Point,  whose  lonely  ruins  still  overlook  the  fair 
blue  narrows  of  Lake  Champlain,  under  the  shadows  of  austere  highlands. 

On  the  eve  of  the  Revolution  the  Sons  of  Liberty  in  New  York  made  many  spirited 
protests  against  the  royal  aggressions,  and  fought  the  soldiers  on  Golden  Hill,  some  weeks 
before  the  Boston  massacre  of  1770.  The  Nancy,  bearing  taxed  tea  from  England,  put 
about  off  Sandy  Hook  and  sailed  home  again,  not  venturing  to  enter  the  rebel  bay.  The 
Provincial  Assembly  remained  loyal  to  the  King,  until  its  final  adjournment  in  1775.  The 
Sons  of  Liberty  seized  the  custom-house  and  arsenal,  and  forbade  vessels  leaving  the 
harbor  with  provisions  for  the  British  troops  beleaguered  in  Boston ;  and  the  Green-Mount- 
ain Boys  from  Vermont  captured  the  royal  fortresses  of  Ticonderoga  and  Crown  Point. 
Wooster's  Connecticut  militia  marched  to  Harlem  and  went  into  camp,  and  overawed  the 
Tories  of  New  York.  The  frigate  Asia  lay  in  the  stream  and  bombarded  the  city  with 
destructive  broadsides  ;  and  Gov.  Tryon  finally  fled  from  the  exasperated  citizens,  and  set  up 
his  government  in  the  cabin  of  this  noisy  war-ship,  saying  that  "The  Americans,  from 
politicians,  are  now  becoming  soldiers."  The  New- York  Line  of  the  Continental  army 
numbered  five  regiments. 

The  Six  Nations  were  kept  loyal  to  the  Crown,  by  Sir  William  Johnson,  an  Irish 
knight,  to  whom  the  King  had  granted  100,000  acres  in  the  Mohawk  Valley.  He 
married  the  sister  of  Brant,  the  famous  Mohawk  chief,  and  lived  in  rude  baronial  state  at 
Johnson  Hall.  After  his  death,  his  nephew,  Col.  Guy  Johnson,  and  his  son,  Sir  John 
Johnson,  entered  the  British  service  with  500  Indian  warriors.  Early  in  1776,  Gen. 
Schuyler  marched  up  the  Mohawk  Valley  with  3,000  militia,  and  disarmed  Johnson's  300 
Scottish  retainers,  and  took  away  their  artillery,  to  avert  danger  from  the  frontiers. 

Gen.  Montgomery  advanced  down  Lake 
Champlain  with  1,000  Americans,  and  reduced 
St.  Johns  and  Montreal,  but  suffered  defeat  and 
death  before  the  frowning  walls  of  Quebec. 
Early  in  1776  Gen.  Charles  Lee  occupied  New 
York  with  an  American  force.  Washington 
led  his  army  of  18,000  men  from  reclaimed 
Boston  to  defend  New  York ;  and  on  the  Qth 
of  July  the  Declaration  of  Independence  was 


read  aloud  by  an  aide,  in  his  presence,  to  a  brigade  of  the 

Continental  army,  drawn  up  in  hollow  square  on  the  site  of 

the  City  Hall.     The  same  day  the  citizens  pulled  down  the 

equestrian  statue  of  George  III.,  erected  on  Bowling  Green 

in  1770,  and  it  was  made  into  bullets,  so  that  the  royal  forces 

for  a  time  "had  melted  majesty  hurled  at  them. "     But  by 

August  Gens.  Clinton  and  Howe  reached  Sandy  Hook,  with 

30,000  British  and  German  troops;  occupied  Staten  Island 

in  force ;  and  sent  frigates  up  the  Hudson.    Landing  on  Long 

Island  with  20,000  men,  they  crushed  the  9,000  Americans 

under  Putnam,  holding  the  fortified  lines  back  of  Brooklyn, 

after  a  long  and  bloody  battle.    The  I4th  Massachusetts  (Marblehead)  Regiment  saved  the 

army  by  ferrying  it  across  the  East  River  during  the  following  night ;    and  Washington 


FORT  TICONDEROGA. 

SITE   OF  THE   COVERED  WAY  WHERE 

ETHAN    ALLEN    ENTERED. 


THE   STATE   OF  NEW    YORK. 


579 


HUDSON  HIGHLANDS  :    NORTHERN  ENTRANCE. 


fortified  Harlem  Heights,  and  beat  off  the  enemy,  until 
their  flanking  tactics  compelled  him  to  fall  back  into 
Westchester  (where  he  fought  a  battle  at  White  Plains), 
and  afterwards  into  New  Jersey.  Soon  afterwards,  Fort 
Washington,  near  Harlem  River,  was  stormed  and  cap- 
tured by  the  British,  with  its  garrison  of  2,000  men.  It 
had  been  held  by  the  order  of  Congress,  and  against  Wash- 
ington's command  to  evacuate.  Thenceforward  for  seven 
years  the  hostile  army  retained  possession  of  the  city, 
closely  observed  by  American  forces  on  the  Hudson. 

In  the  summer  of  1777  Sir  John  Burgoyne  led  an  army  of  9,000  Britons  and  Germans 
southward  from  Canada,  to  sever  New  England  from  the  other  colonies  by  winning  and 
keeping  the  line  of  the  Hudson.  Fort  Ticonderoga  fell  before  his  advance  ;  but  the  brave 
Gen.  Schuyler,  with  4,  500  Americans,  retarded  the  grand  triumphal  march  at  every  strategic 
point.  Burgoyne  formed  an  intrenched  camp  near  Saratoga,  and  was  beleaguered  by  Gen. 
Gates  and  10,000  New-  York  and  New-England  troops,  who  won  two  decisive  victories  over 
the  invaders,  and  then  compelled  them  to  surrender,  3,387  Britons,  2,412  Germans,  six 
members  of  Parliament,  and  several  nobles,  with  42  guns,  and  a  great  quantity  of  military 
stores.  The  British  loss  in  the  campaign  exceeded  10,000  men.  The  army  remained  in 
captivity  until  the  end  of  the  war,  first  in  Massachusetts,  and  then  in  Virginia.  Meantime, 

Sir  Henry  Clinton,  advancing  north- 
ward from  New  York  to  meet  Bur- 
goyne, stormed  the  forts  at  the  High- 
lands, and  near  West  Point,  and 
burned  Kingston.  In  1779,  he  moved 
up  the  river  again,  with  Admiral  Sir 
George  Collier's  fleet,  and  fortified 
Stony  Point,  which  was  carried  by 
storm  soon  afterward  by  Anthony 
Wayne,  who  assured  Washington  : 

«  pU  stQrm  heU   Jf       ^^  plan   it<  » 


COLD    SPRING,   ON    THE    HUDSON    R!VER. 

As  a  corollary  to  Burgoyne's  march,  Col.  St.  Leger,and  the  Royal  Greens,  and  swarms 
of  Indians,  besieged  Fort  Stanwix  (now  Rome),  and  ambuscaded  Herkimer's  800  Dutch 
militia,  at  Oriskany.  The  siege  was  raised  by  Benedict  Arnold  and  800  Massachusetts 
troops,  who  drove  the  enemy  back  to  Lake  Ontario  in  a  disgraceful  rout.  The  Mohawks 
and  Tories  filled  the  Schoharie  Valley  and  the  Otsego  country  with  devastation  and  rapine, 
and  perpetrated  horrible  massacres  at  Cherry  Valley  and  the  Valley  of  Wyoming,  and  the 
Minisink.  Finally,  Gens.  Sullivan  and  Clinton  led  5,000  Continentals  into  the  Indian 
domain,  and  swept  the  Seneca-Lake  country  and  the  Genesee  Valley  with  sword  and  torch. 
The  enemy  retaliated  by  destroying  Canajoharie,  Fort  Plain,  Caughnawaga,  Stone  Arabia, 
and  Ballston,  and  laid  waste  broad  areas  of  the  Mohawk  Valley,  with  pitiless  fury. 

As  the  great  war  drew  to  a  close,  10,000  Continentals 
lay  in  camp  at  Newburgh,  where  Washington  nobly  spurned 
a  proposal  to  make  him  King  of  America.  The  army  was 
disbanded  in  June,  1783.  November  25th,  Sir  Henry  Clin- 
ton evacuated  New  York,  and  Washington  occupied 
the  city  with  his  victorious  troops. 

Massachusetts  and  Connecticut  laid  claim  to  the 
greater  part  of  Western  New  York,  by  virtue  of  their 
original  royal  charters,  which  granted  them  jurisdiction 
westward  to  the  Pacific  Ocean.  The  Connecticut  claim 
was  summarily  rejected  ;  but  by  the  Hartford  Conven-  CATSKILL  MTS.  :  CATSKILL-MOUNTAIN  HOUSE. 


BULWAGGA    BAY  :     LAKE 
CHAMPLAIN. 


580  KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE    UNITED   STATES. 

tion  of  1786,  New  York  received  from  Massachusetts  the 
"government,  sovereignty  and  jurisdiction"  over  6,000,000 
acres,  and  gave  to  Massachusetts  and  her  grantees  the  right  of 
pre-emption  therein,  and  "all  other  estate,  right,  title  and  prop- 
erty." The  Tuscaroras,  Oneidas,  Onondagas,  Cayugas  and 
Senecas  sold  or  ceded  nearly  all  their  domains  between  1785 
and  1797.  After  1788,  the  vast  wilderness  of  central  and 
western  New  York  was  rapidly  settled  by  New-Englanders. 
The  land-office  sold  5,542,173  acres  for  $1,030,433.  At  this 
time  New  York  had  fewer  inhabitants  than  Virginia,  Massa- 
chusetts, Pennsylvania,  or  North  Carolina;  and  it  was  not 
until  1820  that  it  passed  Virginia  in  population.  The  Con- 
tinental Congress  established  the  capital  of  the  Republic  at  New 
York,  1784—90  ;  and  there,  in  1789,  President  Washington  was  inaugurated,  on  the  balcony 
of  Federal  Hall,  in  the  presence  of  Adams,  Knox,  Jay,  Livingston,  and  thousands  of  citizens. 
During  the  next  half  century  the  statesmen  and  lawyers  of  New  York,  conspicuous  in 
ability  and  ripe  in  attainments,  had  a  great  share  in  forming  the  future  of  the  Republic. 
Although  the  New- York  delegates  in  Congress  did  not  vote  for  the  declaration  of  war  in 
1812,  much  of  the  brunt  of  that  two  years  of  fighting  fell  on  the  Empire  State.  Sackett's 
Harbor  and  Ogdensburg  repulsed  the  invaders,  but  Buffalo  was  burned  by  the  Royal 
Scots,  all  but  four  houses.  The  New- York  militia  suffered  defeat  at  Queenston,  with  a 
loss  of  I,ioo  men;  but  1,700  Americans  captured  York  (Toronto),  after  a  hot  bombard- 
ment ;  and  another  force  stormed  Fort  George,  on  the  Niagara  River.  Some  of  the 
heaviest  fighting  of  the  war  occurred  on  the  Niagara 
frontier,  in  the  summer  of  1813,  when  Gens.  Scott  and 
Ripley  captured  Fort  Erie,  opposite  Buffalo,  and  soon 
afterward  defeated  Riall  at  Chippewa,  and  won  a  des- 
perate battle  at  Lundy's  Lane,  over  800  men  being 
lost  on  either  side.  Fort  Erie  repulsed  several  assaults 
by  the  British,  and  was  then  blown  up  by  the  gar- 
rison, and  Izard's  American  army  went  into  winter 
quarters  at  Buffalo  and  Batavia.  Plattsburg  was  attacked  in  September,  1814,  by  Sir  George 
Prevost  and  14,000  soldiers,  mostly  veterans  of  Wellington's  army,  who  for  two  hours  en- 
deavored to  storm  the  town,  occupied  by  Macomb's  3,000  United-States  regulars  and  an 
equal  number  of  New- York  and  Vermont  militia  under  Gen.  Mooers.  The  invaders  were 
driven  back  to  Canada,  with  a  loss  of  2, 500  men  and  nearly  all  their  stores.  At  the  same 
time  Commodore  Downie's  fleet  attacked  MacDonough's  American  squadron,  on  Lake 
Champlain,  off  Plattsburg,  and  was  forced  to  surrender,  after  a  spirited  naval  battle,  in 
which  30  vessels  were  engaged.  Early  in  1813  Sir  James  Yeo,  with  a  British  fleet  and  3,000 
men,  captured  Oswego  and  destroyed  the  fort.  The  mastery  of  Lake  Ontario  was  disputed 
with  him  by  Commodore  Chauncey,  until  Yeo  launched  a  loo-gun  man-of-war  at  Kingston. 

After  the  completion  of  the  Erie  Canal,  the 
great  cities  of  the  Northern  Tier  sprang  into  being 
with  marvellous  rapidity.  Buffalo,  destroyed  by 
the  British  in  1813,  had  over  12,000  inhabitants  in 
1830;  and  Rochester  arose  from  a  homeless  wild- 
erness in  iSioto  n,ooo  inhabitants  in  1830.  In 
1826  Wm.  Morgan  disappeared;  and  Thurlow 
Weed  founded  the  A  nti- Masonic  newspaper.  New 
York  was  the  first  State  to  abolish  imprisonment 
for  debt,  in  1831.  In  1832  the  Whig  party  was 
founded  by  James  Watson  Webb. 


NEW  YORK  :     THE    TOMBS. 


NEW   YORK  :    THE  BELVEDERE,  CENTRAL    PARK. 


THE  STATE   OF  NEW   YORK.  58i 

During  the  Canadian  Rebellion  of  1837,  700  New- York  volunteers  occupied  Navy 
Island,  in  the  Niagara  River,  with  20  cannon ;  and  armed  Canadian  Royalists  seized  their 
steamboat,  the  Caroline,  and  sent  her  in  flames  over  Niagara  Falls.  Other  insurgents  kept 
up  a  predatory  warfare  among  the  Thousand  Islands,  until 
President  Van  Buren  and  Gov.  Marcy  issued  proclamations 
against  the  rebels,  and  Gen.  Scott  was  ordered  to  northern 
New  York  to  enforce  neutrality. 

In  1839  thousands  of  farmers  formed  them- 
selves into  anti-rent  associations,  to  break  up 
the  onerous  remnants  of  the  feudal  patroon 
system,  and  these  secret  bands  perpetrated  so 
many  illegal  acts,  that  Gov.  Silas  Wright  de- 
clared  Delaware  County  to  be  in  a  state  of  NEW  YORK  :  220  REGIMENT  ARMORY. 

insurrection.  The  militia  and  sheriffs'  posses  suffered  check  for  a  time  by  the  rural 
levies,  and  several  persons  were  slain.  After  these  disturbing  forces  had  been  put  down, 
the  land  tenures  were  simplified  by  law,  and  the  tenantry  secured  their  rights.  The  large 
estates  have  been  replaced  by  a  multitude  of  small  proprietors,  and  the  farms  now  average 
less  than  100  acres  each. 

Although  New  York  was  bound  to  the  South  by  closer  commercial  and  social  ties  than 
any  other  Northern  State  enjoyed,  the  Republican  party,  led  by  Seward,  Weed,  and  Greeley, 
attained  great  power  within  its  borders.  When  the  late  civil  war  broke 
out,  New  York  raised  30,000  men  at  the  earliest  call,  sending  at  first  ten 
splendid  regiments  of  militia  to  meet  the  imminent 
danger.  The  United-States  Sanitary  Commission  came 
into  being  in  New- York  City  in  1861,  largely  by  the 
efforts  of  Dr.  Bellows,  Valentine  Mott,  and  Frederick 
Law  Olmsted,  and  received  and  wisely  distributed 
to  the  National  armies  supplies  to  the  value  of 
$20,000,000.  In  the  same  great  city  arose  the  United- 
States  Christian  Commission,  under  the  efforts  of 
Vincent  Collyer  and  George  H.  Stuart,  and  dis- 
tributed to  the  armies  food,  stores,  delicacies  and 
clothing  to  the  amount  of  $6,000,000.  The  Union 
-  Defence  Committee  of  New  York,  by  its  large  contributions  and  energetic  measures,  also 
aided  greatly  the  work  of  reunion.  By  the  close  of  1862  the  State  had  sent  into  the 
tented  field  219,000  soldiers,  and  had  given  or  loaned  to  the  Government  $300,000,000. 
But  in  July,  1863,  the  city  of  New  York  was  seized  by  vast  mobs  (largely  of  aliens),  who 
plundered  and  burnt  extensive  districts,  and  murdered  many  soldiers  and  negroes.  The 
valor  of  the  police  and  citizens  availed  little  against  this  colossal  riot,  and  the  National 
Government  was  compelled  to  send  44  regiments 
and  batteries  against  the  insurgents.  One  thou- 
sand persons  were  killed  and  wounded  during  this 
amazing  outbreak,  and  millions  of  dollars'  worth 
of  property  was  destroyed.  During  the  war,  New 
'York  furnished  490,000  soldiers,  of  whom  116,382 
went  from  the  metropolis  alone.  She  paid  out 
$87,000,000  for  bounties;  and  individual  gifts  and 
benefactions  reached  vast  sums.  Weakened  by 
such  terrible  drains  of  men,  the  State  showed  a 
loss  of  49,000  inhabitants  between  1860  and  1865. 
Her  levies  for  the  National  armies  included  194 
regiments  of  infantry,  26  of  cavalry,  1 7  of  artillery, 


REGIMENT    ARMORY. 


WASHINGTON'S    HEADQUARTERS 
AND    MONUMENT. 


582 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE   UNITED   STATES. 


ADIRONDACK    MOUNTAINS  :     THE   GIANT 
OF   THE   VALLEY. 


and  35  batteries,  besides  engineers,  sharp-shooters, 
a  rocket  battalion,  and  the  militia.  During  the 
war  New  York  furnished  20  major-generals  (and 
65  by  brevet),  and  97  brigadiers  (and  220  by 
brevet).  One  hundred  and  fifteen  New-Yorkers 
received  the  United- States  medal  of  honor  for 
bravery. 

June    I,  1866,  1, 200  Fenians  crossed  the  Ni- 
agara River,  seized  Fort  Erie,  and  advanced  into 
Canada,  where  they  fought  a  stubborn  battle  with 
the  Toronto  militia,  at  Ridgeway.     The  Irish  in- 
vaders held  the  field,  but  retired  during  the  night,  and  returned  to  the  American  shore. 

Among  the  historic  edifices  still  standing  are  Johnson  Hall,  built  at  Johnstown  by  Sir 
William  Johnson,  in  1763  ;  the  manor-houses  of  the  Van  Rensselaers,  Schuylers,  Phillipses, 
Beekmans,  Van  Cortlandts,  De  Peysters,  Livingstons,  Morrises,  Jays,  and  other  great 
families  ;  the  Senate  House,  at  Kingston,  recently  restored  with  pious  care ;  the  Billopp 
House,  on  Staten  Island;  Washington's  headquarters  (1782-3),  at  Newburgh,  built  in 
1750,  and  now  sacredly  preserved;  the  old  Dutch  church  of  Sleepy  Hollow,  built  by 
Vedryck  Flypsen  in  1699;  the  Dutch  and  English  churches  at  Fishkill ;  the  shattered 
walls  and  barracks  of  Fort  Ticonderoga ;  the  fortress  of  Crown 
Point,  built  by  the  British  Government  about  1759,  at  a  cost  of 
over  $10,000,000,  and  still  fairly  preserved  ;  the  ancient  churches 
and  ruined  defenses  of  the  Mohawk  Valley ;  and  many  other 
venerable  houses  in  the  Hudson  Valley  and  on  Long  Island.  Im- 
posing monuments  have  been  erected  on  the  battle-fields  of  Sara- 
toga, Oriskany,  and  Cherry  Valley,  and  elsewhere. 

The  name  of  New  York  is  derived  from  the  circumstance 
that  in  1664  King  Charles  II.  of  England  granted  the  territory 
"from  the  west  side  of  the  Connecticut  River  to  the  east  side 
of  Delaware  Bay,"  to  his  brother,  the  Duke  of  York  (afterwards 
King  James  II.)  ;  and  when  the  Duke's  naval  expedition  captured 
New  Amsterdam,  that  town  was  named  in  his  honor,  NEW  YORK. 
The  same  name  was  applied  to  the  Province.  "By  a  strange 
caprice  of  history,  the  greatest  State  in  the  Union  bears  the  name  of  the  last  and  the  most 
tyrannical  of  the  Stuarts."  The  popular  name  of  THE  EMPIRE  STATE  indicates  the  com- 
manding position  of  New  York  among  the  American  commonwealths. 

The  Arms  of  New  York  are  as  follows :  A  broad  shield,  on  which  is  pictured  a; 
placid  stream,  the  Hudson,  with  vessels  approaching  each  other,  and  in  the  background 
the  Highlands,  over  which  the  resplendent  sun  is  rising.  The  crest  is  an  heraldic  eagle, 
perched  on  a  globe,  showing  parts  of  America  and  Europe  On  one  side  of  the  shield 
stands  the  robed  figure  of  Liberty,  with  a  shield  in  one  hand,  and  in  the  other  an  upright 

staff  surmounted  by  a  liberty  cap,  and  with  her 
foot  on  an  overturned  crown.  On  the  other  side 
stands  the  robed  figure  of  Justice,  blindfolded  and 
vigilant,  with  an  even  balance  in  one  hand  and 
an  upward-pointing  sword  in  the  other.  The 
motto  is  EXCELSIOR.  This  seal  was  devised  in 
1778  by  Lewis  Morris,  John  Jay,  and  John  Sloss 
Hobart,  and  has  appeared  on  the  blue  regimental 
flags  of  the  New-York  troops  ever  since. 

The   Governors  of  New  York  have  been : 
ADIRONDACK  MOUNTAINS  i  BLUE-MOUNTAIN  LAKE.       Dutch  .'  Cornelius  JacobsenMay,  1624 ;  William. 


KAUTERSKILL    FALL 


THE  STATE  OF  NEW   YORK. 


THE    THOUSAND    ISLANDS,    NEAR    ALEXANDRIA    BAY. 


Verhulst,  1625  ;  Peter  Minuit,  1626-33  '•>  Wouter 
Van  Twiner,  1633-8;  William  Kieft,  1638-47; 
Peter  Stuyvesant,  1647-64.  British:  Richard 
Nicolls,  1664-8;  Francis  Lovelace,  1668-74; 
Sir  Edmond  Andros,  1674-82;  Thomas  Don- 
gan,  1682-7;  Francis  Nicholson,  1687-90;  Jacob 
Leisler,  1690-1  ;  Henry  Sloughter,  1691  ;  Joseph 
Dudley,  1692.  30  Provincial  governors  ruled 
between  1692  and  1777.  State:  George  Clin- 
ton, 1777-95;  John  Jay,  1795-1801 ;  George 
Clinton,  1801-4;  Morgan  Lewis,  1804-7;  Daniel  D.  Tompkins,  1807-16;  John  Tay- 
lor (acting),  1816-17;  De  Witt  Clinton,  1817-23;  Joseph  C.  Yates,  1823-5;  De  Witt 
Clinton,  1825-8;  Nathaniel  Pitcher,  1828-9;  Martin  Van  Buren,  1829;  Enos  T.  Throop 
(acting),  1829-31;  Enos  T.  Throop,  1831-3;  William  L.  Marcy,  1833-9;  William  H. 
Seward,  1839-43;  William  C.  Bouck,  1843-5;  Silas  Wright,  1845-7;  J°hn  Young, 
1847-9;  Hamilton  Fish,  1849-51  ;  Washington  Hunt,  1851-3;  Horatio  Seymour,  1853-5; 
Myron  H.  Clark,  1855-7;  John  A.  King,  1857-9;  Edwin  D.  Morgan,  1859-63;  Horatio 
Seymour,  1863-5;  Reuben  E.  Fenton,  1865-9;  John  T.  Hoffman,  1869-73;  John  Adams 
Dix,  1873-5  j  Samuel  Jones Tilden,  1875-7  »  Lucius  Robinson,  1877-80;  Alonzo  B.Cornell, 
1880-3  ;  Grover  Cleveland,  1883-5  J  David 
Bennett  Hill  (acting),  1885  ;  D.  B.  Hill, 
1885-91  ;  and  Roswell  P.  Flower,  1892-4. 
Descriptive. —  New  York  is  nearly 
as  large  as  England,  and  a  little  larger 
than  Louisiana,  and  includes  -fa  of  the 
American  land.  It  is  the  igth  State  in 
size,  being  smaller  than  Alabama,  Colo- 
rado, Florida,  Georgia,  Illinois,  and  others. 
Some  imaginative  writers  fancy  that  they  can  see  a  triangular  outline  to  the  State.  It  is 
326^  miles  east  and  west,  and  300  miles  north  and  south,  excluding  the  islands.  Forty- 
seven  thousand  six  hundred  and  twenty  square  miles  of  its  area  is  land,  and  1,550  in  Lakes 
Ontario  and  Erie.  The  land  rises  gradually  from  the  Great  Lakes,  and  attains  mountainous 
altitudes  all  along  the  eastern  and  southern  borders,  affording  many  episodes  of  beautiful 
scenery.  Foremost  among  these  highlands  come  the  Adirondacks,  a  cluster  of  wilderness 
peaks,  toward  Lake  Champlain,  surrounded  by  the  far-outspread  North  Woods,  and  diver- 
•sined  with  many  a  bright  lake  and  silvery  river.  A  troop  of  broad  and  irregular  hills 
enters  from  Pennsylvania,  broken  by  deep  ravines,  and  by  the  rich  Mohawk  Valley,  and  then 
rising  to  the  great  Adirondack  group  of  mountains,  wild  and 
rugged,  and  formed  of  igneous  rocks,  rich  in  mineral  de- 
posits. Among  the  most  interesting  scenes  here  are  the 
Hunter's  Pass,  Indian  Pass,  Wilmington  Notch,  Keene  Val- 
ley, and  the  wild  Ausable  Ponds,  under  Mt.  Marcy.  Farther 
north  are  the  wonderful  gorges  of  the  Au-Sable  and  Chat- 
eaugay  Chasms. 

The  loftiest  peaks  in  the  Adirondack  wilderness  are : 
Mt.  Marcy,  5,344  feet;  Mt.  Mclntyre,  5,113;  Clinton, 
4,937;  Haystack,  4,918;  Dix  Peak,  4,916;  Basin  Moun- 
tain, 4,905;  Gray  Peak,  4,902;  Skylight,  4,890;  White- 
face,  4,871 ;  Golden,  4,753  ;  Gothic  Mountain,  4,744;  Red- 
field,  4,688 ;  Santanoni,  4,644  ;  and  the  Giant  of  the  Valley, 
4,530.  Among  the  other  ranges  in  this  lofty  wilderness 
are  the  Palmertown  Mountains,  running  east  of  Lake  George, 


OTSEQO    LAKE. 


5  §4 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED  STATES. 


LAKE    LUZERNE. 


from  Greenfield  to  Mt.  Defiance,  opposite  Fort  Ticon- 
deroga ;  the  Kayaderosseras  Mountains,  60  by  seven 
miles,  between  Schroon  Lake  and  Lake  George,  and  end- 
ing at  Bulwagga  Bay,  on  Lake  Champlain,  with  Mt. 
Pharaoh  as  the  chief  peak ;  the  Bouquet  Range,  border- 
ing Bouquet- River  Valley,  and  culminating  in  Dix 
Peak ;  the  Clinton  Range,  including  the  chief  Adiron- 
dack summits,  and  ending  at  Trembleau  Point,  on  Lake 
Champlain;  the  Au-Sable  Range,  160 miles  long,  ending 
on  the  north  near  Peru ;  the  Chateaugay  Range,  mainly 
in  Hamilton  and  Franklin  Counties,  and  melting  away 
into  the  lowlands  of  Canada ;  the  St.  -Lawrence  Range,  bordering  the  great  northern  val- 
ley ;  and  other  semi-detached  groups. 

The  Catskill  Mountains  cover  500  square  miles,  between  the  Hudson  and  the 
Susquehanna,  with  steep  and  rocky  acclivities,  and  crests  of  old  red  sandstone  and  con- 
glomerate. Among  the  chief  peaks  are  Slide  Mountain,  4,220  feet;  Hunter  Mountain, 
4,052;  Black  Dome,  4,004;  Mt.  Cornell,  3,920;  Peekamoose,  3,875;  Plateau  Mountain, 
3,855  ;  and  Wittenberg,  3,824.  This  range  was  called  Onti-ora,  or  Mountains  of  the  Sky, 
by  the  Indians,  and  the  Katzbergs,  by  the  Dutch, 
for  the  many  catamounts  therein  dwelling.  Amid  ^^* 
their  beautiful  glens  Irving  laid  the  scenes  of  his 
Rip  Van  Winkle  legend,  and  Thomas  Cole  painted 
many  of  his  famous  pictures.  Three  dependent  ranges 
diverge  from  the  Catskills  :  the  Helderbergs,  running 
northward,  parallel  with  the  Hudson  ;  the  Shawangunk 
Mountains,  a  high  and  commanding  ridge,  running 
southwest  from  the  Hudson  near  Esopus,  to  the  Dela- 
ware, at  Port  Jervis,  and  from  1,500  to  2,000  feet  high  ; 
and  the  Delaware  Mountains,  uniting  the  Catskills  to  the  Pennsylvanian  Alleghanies.  Howe's 
Cave  is  in  the  Helderberg  Mountains,  and  runs  for  three  miles  underground,  with  many 
weird  halls  and  passages,  flowing  streams  and  dark  pools,  and  myriads  of  stalactites  and 
stalagmites.  The  Blue  Ridge  reaches  the  Hudson  under  the  name  of  the  Highlands, 
about  1,700  feet  high;  and  after  giving  passage  to  the  river  between  its  mighty  bulwarks, 
it  is  extended  into  the  Taconics  of  Massachusetts.  The  outlines  of  this  range  are  rugged 
and  precipitous,  of  primary  rock,  with  thin  and  valueless  soil. 

The  New-York  coast-line  of  Lake  Ontario  extends  for  a  distance  of  200  miles,  and  that 
of  Lake  Erie,  for  75  miles  ;  and  the  two  are  joined  by 
the  Niagara  River.  Lake  Champlain  flows  along  the  east- 
ern frontier  for  134  miles,  and  receives  the  waters  of  Lake 
George,  one  of  the  loveliest  sheets  of  water  in  the  world. 
This  "Como  of  America, "  stretches  its  deep  and  crystalline 
tides  for  36  miles  among  the  frowning  Kayaderosseras  and 
Luzerne  Mountains,  with  hundreds  of  islands,  sequestered 
coves,  mountain  shores,  and  far-projecting  points.  It  was 
called  by  the  French  discoverers,  Le  Lac  du  St.  Sacrement ; 
and  over  a  century  of  border  forays  and  battling  armies 
made  its  shores  historic.  Otsego  Lake,  nine  by  \\  miles, 
and  hallowed  by  the  genius  of  Cooper,  lies  between  long 
ranges  of  green  highlands,  with  Cooperstown  at  one  end 
and  Richfield  Springs  seven  miles  from  the  other  end. 
Near  the  center  of  New  York  a  group  of  long  and  nar- 
THE  LAKE  OF  A  THOUSAND  ISLANDS.  row  lakes  occupies  ancient  valleys  blocked  by  moraines, 


SCHROON    LAKE. 


UPPER   AU-SABLE    POND. 


THE   STATE   OF  NEW 

and  pointing  generally  north  and  south.  Most 
of  them  empty  into  Lake  Ontario,  through  the 
Oswego  River.  They  are  navigated  by  steam- 
boats, and  have  on  their  shorts  many  pleasant 
villages  and  summer-resorts.  Oneida  Lake,  19 
by  six  miles,  spreads  its  broad  blue  shield  in  a 
lowland  country,  rich  in  dairies  and  blooded  cat- 
tle. Farther  southwest  is  Skaneateles  Lake, 
sixteen  miles  long,  860  feet  above  the  sea,  bordered 
by  high  blue  hills,  and  not  far  from  the  romantic 
Otisco  Lake  (four  miles -long).  Owasco  Lake,  eleven  miles  long,  is  near  Auburn.  Cayuga 
Lake,  38  miles  long,  runs  from  Ithaca  to  Cayuga,  in  a  .rich  farming  country.  Seneca  Lake, 
35  by  four  miles,  lies  between  the  beautiful  scenery  of  Watkins  Glen  and  the  town  of  Geneva, 
the  seat  of  Hobart  College.  Its  deep,  clear  waters  rarely  freeze  over.  Canandaigua  Lake 
(16  miles  long)  and  Keuka  Lake  (22  miles  long)  lie  in  a  picturesque  hill-country,  famous 
for  its  great  vineyards  and  wine-cellars.  In  southwestern  New  York  is  Chautauqua  Lake, 
1 8  by  three  miles,  and  1,400  feet  above  the  sea,  and  world-renowned 
for  the  popular  educational  movement  bearing  its  name.  The  Adiron- 
dack country  abounds  in  beautiful  lakes,  Placid,  Raquette,  Blue-Moun- 
tain, Tupper,  St.  Regis,  Saranac,  Schroon,  Luzerne  and  many  others, 
famous  as  summer-resorts.  There  are  200  lakes  in  this  northern  region, 
Avalanche  Lake  being  2,900  feet  high;  Golden  Lake,  2,750;  Blue- 
Mountain  Lake,  1,800;  and  Upper  Au-Sable  Pond,  1,993.  Nearer 
New-York  Gity  are  Lake  Mahopac  (seven  miles  around)  and  Green- 
wood Lake  (ten  miles  long),  each  of  which  has  great  summer-hotels. 
Lake  Mohonk,  high  up  on  the  Shawangunks,  and  Lake  Minnewaska 
are  also  much  visited  in  summer. 

The  rivers  fall  naturally  into  two  divisions,  those  flowing  to  the  Great 
Lakes,  including  the  short  and  rapid  streams  of  the  western  counties  : 
the  Genesee,  145  miles  long,  with  its  lofty  walls  and  great  falls,  and  a 
valley  rich  in  wheat ;  the  Oswego,  flowing  from  the  midland  lakes ;  the 
iron-tinted  rivers  that  pour  down  from  the  Adirondack  wilderness,  and 
the  torrents  that  rush  into  Lake  Champlain  ;  and  those  flowing  south 
and  east,  like  the  limpid  and  broad- curving  Allegany,  navigable  to 
Olean  ;  the  Susquehanna,  issuing  from  Otsego  Lake  ;  the  Delaware,  born  in  Utsyanthia  Lake  ; 
the  Mohawk,  pouring  down  its  famous  valley  to  the  Hudson ;  and  the  majestic  Hudson, 

rising  far  up  in  the  Adirondacks,  300  miles  from  and  4,000    ||BmjMLL =-— g, 

feet  above  the  sea.  The  Hudson  is  the  most  interesting  of  | 
the  lesser  American  rivers,  and  immense  steamboats  traverse 
its  156  miles  from  New- York  City  to  Albany  and  Troy  daily. 
Among  the  points  of  interest  are  the  Palisades,  a  basaltic  wall, 
20  miles  long  and  1, 500  feet  high,  running  north  from  Fort  Lee, 
along  the  Jersey  shore  ;  Tappan  Zee,  a  lake-like  widening  of  the 
river,  ten  by  three  miles,  on  which  lie  the  ancient  towns  of  Dobbs 
Ferry  and  Irvington,  Tarry  town  and  Piermont,  Nyack  and  Sing 
Sing,  in  a  region  made  classic  by  the  pen  of  Washington  Irving  ; 
Haverstraw  and  Peekskill,  venerable  Dutch  towns ;  the  historic 
headlands  of  Stony  Point  and  Verplanck's  Point ;  the  magnifi- 
cent passage  of  the  Highlands,  beginning  between  the  Dun- 
derberg  and  Anthony's  Nose,  and  extending  north  to  Storm 
King  (1,5  29  feet  high),  beyond  the  world-renowned  military 
school  at  West  Point ;  Cornwall,  the  chief  summer-resort  of  AU-SABLE  CHASM  :  RAINBOW  FALLS, 


AU-SABLE    CHASM 
SENTINEL   ROCK. 


586 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE    UNITED   STATES. 


WATKINS     GLEN. 


the  Hudson  country;  the  quaint  old  city  of  Newburgh,  opposite  Fishkill,  the  scene  of 
Cooper's  novel,  The  Spy  ;  Poughkeepsie,  with  its  bold  heights  crowned  by  famous  schools  ; 
Rondout  and  Kingston,  abounding  in  coal ;  the  grand  Catskill  Mountains,  massed  on  the 
west  of  the  valley  ;  and  many  another  interest- 
ing locality,  with  hundreds  of  beautiful  coun- 
try-seats of  the  ancient  patrician  families,  and 
the  modern  men  of  wealth.  In  the  six  miles 
between  Dobbs  Ferry  and  Tarrytown  are  the 
country-houses  of  63  millionaires,  whose  united 
fortunes  are  said  to  exceed  $500,000,000. 

The  magnificent  St. -Lawrence  River,  the 
outflow  of  the  Great  Lakes,  which  pours  into 
the  sea  more  water  than  any  river  in  the  world, 
except  the  Amazon,  forms  the  northern  boundary 
of  New  York  for  100  miles,  from  Lake  Ontario 
to  the  Indian  village  of  St.  Regis,  where  it  passes 
into  Canada.  After  leaving  Lake  Ontario,  at  Cape 
Vincent,  the  river  traverses  the  lovely  Lake  of  a 
Thousand  Islands,  40  miles  long  and  in  places  seven 
miles  wide,  containing  1,800  islets  and  islands, 
famous  in  border  history,  and  for  many  years  one  of  the  leading  sum- 
mer-resorts of  America.  Nor  may  we  fail  to  speak  of  the  Chenango 
and  the  Chemung,  75  miles  and  40  miles  long,  tributaries  of  the  Sus- 
quehanna,  and  the  former  navigable  for  50  miles.  Black  River  flows-  from  the  Adirondacks 
to  Lake  Ontario,  108  miles,  with  several  falls.  The  Oswegatchie(i25  miles),  Raquette,  St.- 
Regis,  Grass  and  other  wilderness  streams  mingle  their  waters  with  the  St.  -Lawrence.  In 
its  36  miles  from  Lake  Erie  to  Lake  Ontario  the  Niagara  River  falls  336  feet,  52  feet  being 
in  the  rapids  above  the  Falls.  At  Buffalo  it  is  three  quarters  of  a  mile  wide,  and  from  40  to 
60  feet  deep,  with  a  current  of  four  miles  an  hour.  The  marvellous  Niagara  Falls,  one  of 
the  wonders  of  the  world,  occur  at  a  point  where  the  river  is  4, 750  feet  wide.  The  curving 
Horse-shoe  Fall,  half  of  which  is  within  the  Canadian  boundary,  is  154  feet  high  and 
2,000  feet  wide;  the  American  Fall  is  163  feet  high  and  1,100  feet  wide;  and  over  these 
huge  cliffs  100,000,000  tons  of  water  thunder  every  hour. 

The  wooded  Goat  Island,  half  a  mile  long,  and  reached  by  a  bridge  from  the  American 
shore,  separates  the  two  falls,  with  huge  precipices  descending  sheer  from  their  brink  to 
the  river  below.  On  either  side,  and  for  two  miles  above,  extend  the  great  rapids,  "a 
battle  charge  of  tempestuous  waves."  The  American  Fall  is  divided  by  the  little  Luna 
Island,  and  the  part  between  Luna  and  Goat  is  sometimes  called  the  Central  Fall,  between 
whose  blue  waters  and  the  cliff  behind  is  the  Cave  of  the  Winds,  often  visited  by  adventur- 
ous tourists.  A  steamboat  plies  on 
the  river  just  below  the  Falls,  run- 
ning up  into  their  spray.  Nearly  a 
league  below,  beyond  the  white  and 
terrible  Whirlpool  Rapids,  is  the 
Whirlpool. 

The  New-York  State  Park  at 
Niagara  Falls  includes  115  acres, 
extending  for  over  a  mile  along  the 
river,  by  the  falls  and  rapids.  It 
was  purchased  by  the  State  in  1883-5, 


POUGHKEEPSIE   AND   THE   BRIDGE. 


for  $1,433,000,  and  made  attracti 
and  free  of  access. 


NIAGARA  FALLS  :    CANTILEVER   BRIDGE.      VIEW  FROM 
FALLS-VIEW  STATION,   MICHIGAN  CENTRAL  R.  R. 


THE  STATE   OF  NEW   YORK. 

The  New  York  State  Commissioners,  in 
the  sobriety  of  an  official  report,  were  im- 
pelled to  say  :  "Niagara  is  not  simply  the 
crowning  glory  of  the  Empire  State,  it  is 
the  highest  distinction  of  the  Nation  and  of 
the  Continent  of  America."  Unfortunately, 
most  visitors  endeavor  to  see  it  in  a  few 
hours,  and  fall  a  prey  to  mercenary  hack- 
men  and  shop-keepers,  and  so  come  away 
fleeced,  and  tired  and  confused.  To  avoid 
mischances,  and  properly  to  comprehend  this  para- 
mount marvel  of  Nature,  the  visitor  should  settle 
down  here  for  a  term  of  days,  and  study  the  scene 
in  calmness  and  leisure.  It  was  Hawthorne  who 
said  that  "Days  should  be  spent  at  Niagara  Falls 
in  deep  and  happy  seclusion."  The  International  is 
the  finest  and  largest  hotel  at  Niagara,  a  great  fire-proof  stone  structure  built  around 
three  sides  of  an  extensive  lawn,  which  is  adorned  with  flowers  and  ancient  trees,  and  leads 
down  to  the  American  Rapids.  The  house  fronts  on  Prospect  Park ;  and  from  its  mag- 
nificent colonnades  and  rooms  gives  noble  views  of  the  rapids  and  islets,  the  wooded  heights 
of  Goat  Island,  and  the  absolute  brink  and  spray  of  the  falls.  The  appointments  of  this 

famous  hotel  are  of  the  best,  and  the  rates  are 
moderate.  Many  of  the  most  celebrated  peo- 
ple of  the  world,  visiting  Niagara,  have  so- 
journed at  the  International,  and  from  its 
pleasant  shelter  have  made  their  calm  and 
profitable  studies  of  the  mighty  cataract  so 
near  at  hand,  unfretted  by  the  parasites  who 
sometimes  make  misery  and  confusion  for  the 
single-day  visitor. 

During  the  winter,  spring,  and  autumn  the 
only  large  hotel  which  is  open  at  Niagara  Falls  is  the  Spencer  House,  whose  internal 
arrangements  combine  every  advantage  of  quiet,  comfort  and  convenience.  It  is  only  two 
minutes'  walk  from  the  shore  of  the  river  and  the  edge  of  the  rapids,  and  fronts  on  the 
Central-Hudson  railway  station,  which  is,  however,  across  a  very  broad  avenue.  The  house 
is  just  far  enough  from  the  Falls  to  shield  nervous  guests  from  their  occasional  damp  mist, 
and  to  deaden  the  roar  of  the  falling  waters.  The  Spencer  has  entertained  many  of  the 
most  famous  persons  of  this  century  —  the  King  of  the  Sandwich  Islands  and  the  Grand 
Duke  Alexis  of  Russia,  Booth  and  Barrett,  Modjeska  and  Parepa-Rosa,  Chauncey  M. 
Depew,  Wilkie  Collins  and  Charles  Dickens. 

There  are  many  other  well-known  waterfalls  in  this  picturesque  State,  like  the  Genesee 
Falls,  at  Rochester,  where  the  Genesee  River  plunges  down  226  feet,  with  three  powerful 
cascades,  in  a  rocky  canon  ;  Glens  Falls,  where 
the  Hudson  descends  50  feet,  between  black 
marble  cliffs  ;  the  downward  rush  of  the  Mo- 
hawk at  Cohoes,  for  62  feet,  between  lofty 
rocky  walls;  the  beautiful  Trenton  Falls,  1 8 
miles  north  of  Utica,  where  West  Canada  Creek 
makes  five  leaps  (200  feet),  in  a  romantic  lime- 
stone ravine  ;  the  cascades  near  Ithaca,  with 
Fall  Creek  descending  438  feet  m  a  mile,  over 
the  Ithaca,  Triphammer,  Rocky  and  other  falls  ; 


NIAGARA    FALLS  :     INTERNATIONAL    HOTEL. 


NEW    YORK  :      WASHINGTON    BRIDGE   AND    HIGH    BRIDGE. 


588  KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 

the  magnificent  Taughkannock  Falls,  ten  miles  from  Ithaca,  210  feet  high,  narrow,  massive, 
and  white,  in  a  great  amphitheater  of  dark  cliffs  ;  the  Portage  Falls,  on  the  upper  Genesee, 
328  feet  in  three  cascades,  in  a  profound  and  impressive  gorge  ;  Kauterskill,  and  others. 

Long  Island  includes  three  counties,  with 
800,000  inhabitants,  and  is  140  miles  long,  hav- 
ing (according  to  Walt  Whitman)  the  form  of  a 
fish.  On  the  north  is  Long-Island  Sound,  "  the 
American  Mediterranean,"  separating  it  from 
Connecticut ;  and  on  the  south  lines  of  lagoons 
and  sand-bars  front  the  ocean.  The  long  alluvial 
plains  of  the  island  are  traversed  by  several  rail- 
ways, leading  to  Coney  Island,  Rockaway  and 
other  famous  beaches,  and  out  to  the  ancient  ports 
of  Sag  Harbor  and  Greenport,  near  the  eastern  end.  The  western  end,  with  Brooklyn  and 
the  adjacent  communes,  forms  one  side  of  New-York  harbor. 

Staten  Island,  southeast  of  New-York  Bay,  covers  58^  square  miles,  with  its  picturesque 
region  of  hills  and  plains,  and  quiet  villages.  Frequent  ferry-boats  ply  to  and  from  the 
metropolis.  Here  Curtis  and  Winter  have  dwelt  for  many  years  ;  and  Theodore  Winthrop 
wrote  his  memorable  novels ;  and  Thoreau,  and  Parkman,  and  Lowell,  and  Mackay,  lived 
and  labored.  The  Sailors'  Snug  Harbor  overlooks  the  Kill  Von  Kull. 

The  Climate  is  a  pleasant  mean  between  the  rigors  of  New  England  and  the  languors 
of  the  South,  being  tempered  by  the  contiguous  sea  and  lakes.  It  abounds  in  sharp  and 
sudden  changes,  but  is  healthy  and  agreeable,  and  conduces  to  contentment  and  long  life. 
The  prolonged  Adirondack  winters  and  the  deep  and  abiding  snows  of  the  lake-country 
give  place  in  the  great  metropolis  on  the  coast  to  milder  seasons. 

New  York  has  70  varieties  of  trees,  including  15  of  oaks  ;  54  kinds  of  ferns ;  and  1,540 
of  flowers.  The  policy  of  the  State  had  been  to  get  rid  of  its  woodlands  at  any  price. 
But  in  1885  wiser  council  prevailed,  and  the  Forest  Commission  began  its  work  ;  and 
foresters,  fire-wardens  and  game  protectors  now  patrol  the  State's  woods.  The  Forest 
Preserve  includes  over  850,000  acres,  mainly  in  Hamilton,  Essex,  and  Franklin  Counties, 
in  the  Adirondack  wilderness.  The  Catskill  Deer-Parks  were  established  in  1887.  The 
islands  of  Lake  George,  Esopus  Island,  in  the  Hudson,  and  other  i 

public  domains  are  reserved  as  natural  parks.     The  elk,  moose  and 
caribou  have  suffered  extermination,  but  the  Virginian  deer  remains, 
and  also  bears,  lynxes,  foxes,  and  smaller  animals  in  great 
numbers.      Seventeen   species  of   snakes  wind  their  way 
through  the  woods  and  fields.      In  the  hill  streams  brook- 
trout  dwell ;  the  lakes  contain  bass,  pickerel,  perch  and 
land-locked  salmon ;   and  the  rivers  shelter  German  carp 
and  salmon. 

The  Geology  of  New  York 
is  remarkably  varied  and  com- 
prehensive. The  Adirondacks 
are  thought  by  scientists  to  be 
the  oldest  parts  of  the  earth's 
surface.  The  ocean  beat  for 
centuries  along  their  bases,  and 
left  its  beaches  as  memorials. 

Long  afterwards,  the  Alleghany  Mountains  were  upheaved ;  the  glaciers  planed  away 
areas,  and  dug  out  the  lake- valleys  and  Long-Island  Sound;  and  amazing  changes  occurred 
the  rivers.   There  are  250  quarries  in  New  York,  with  a  valuable  yearly  product.   They  incluc 
the  roofing  slate  of  Washington,  Rensselaer  and  Columbia  ;  the  granite  of  the  Adirondack 


NEW    YORK   AND    BROOKLYN  I     EAST-RIVER    BRIDGE. 


THE  STATE   OF  NEW  YORK. 


589 


region ;  the  sandstone  of  Potsdam  and  Medina ;  the  bluestone  (for  paving)  of  Kingston 
and  the  Hudson  Valley  ;  the  shell-limestone  of  Lockport ;  the  black  marble  of  Glens  Falls  ; 
the  red  marble  of  Warwick  ;  the  verd-antique  of  Moriah  ;  the  white  marble  of  Westchester ; 
the  gypsum  of  Syracuse  ;  and  the  hydraulic  cement  of  Rondout,  Manlius  and  Akron.  The 
most  valuable  mineral  product  is  iron  ore,  of  which  1,250,000  tons  are  mined  yearly.  Graphite 
is  found  near  Ticonderoga.  The  finest  fibrous  talc  conies  from  Gouverneur,  St.  Lawrence 
County.  Petroleum  and  natural  gas  abound  in  the  State.  Near  Syracuse  are  the  great 
Salt  Springs,  which  have  produced  400,000,000  bushels  of  salt. 

The  mineral  springs  of  New  York  have  been  for  many  years  favorite  summer-resorts, 
and  are  provided  with  great  hotels  and  pavilions.  Foremost  stands  Saratoga  Springs,  about 
1 80  miles  north  of  New- York  City,  with  saline,  chalybeate,  and  other  medicinal  waters, 
amid  pleasant  parks,  and  near  the  beautiful  Saratoga  Lake,  and  Mt.  McGregor  (where  Gen. 
Grant  died). 
The  17  sulphur 
springs  of  Rich- 
field rise  amid 
the  rich  dairy- 
lands  of  Otsego, 
close  to  Canada- 
rago  Lake  and 
have  latterly  be- 
come very  fash- 
ionable. Sha- 
ron Springs 
(iron,  sulphur 
and  magne- 
sia) have  been 
called  "the  Ba- 
den -  Baden  of 
America,"  and 
flow  in  a  nar- 
row upland  valley  of  Schoharie.  Among  other  resorts  of  this  character  are  the 
Acid  Springs,  six  miles  south  of  Medina  ;  Avon,  with  saline-sulphurous  waters,  in  the 
Genesee  Valley  ;  Ballston,  near  Saratoga,  a  famous  resort  80  years  ago ;  Chappaqua,  in 
Westchester;  Cherry  Valley,  resembling  the  sulphur-waters  of  Teplitz;  Chittenango,  a 
group  of  sulphur-springs,  near  Cazenovia  Lake  ;  Clifton,  near  Canandaigua ;  Columbia,  in  the 
Claverack  Valley ;  Crystal,  between  Seneca  Lake  and  Keuka  Lake ;  Deep-Rock,  at  Oswe- 
go  ;  Guymard,  in  the  Delaware  Valley;  Lebanon,  an  ancient  thermal  spa,  amid  the  hills  of 
the  Massachusetts  border ;  Massena,  a  strong  sulphur  water  near  the  Raquette  River,  in  the 
far  north  ;  Spencer,  near  the  Cayuga  Valley  ;  Vallonia,  among  the  Chenango  hills ;  and 
Verona,  near  Rome,  and  resembling  the  Harrowgate  Springs. 

The  Population  of  New- York  State  exceeds  that  of  22  important  nations  of  the  earth, 
including  the  Argentine  Republic,  Bolivia,  Canada,  Chili,  Columbia,  Egypt,  Peru,  Portu- 
gal, Sweden  and  Norway.  It  is  exceeded  by  only  14.  As  late  as  the  year  1750,  England 
had  no  more  inhabitants.  New  York  includes  in  its  variegated  population  500,000  Irish- 
men, 375,000  Germans,  150,000  Britons,  85,000  Canadians,  20,000  Frenchmen,  15,000 
each  of  Italians  and  Scandinavians,  12,000  Poles,  and  divers  Azoreans,  Australians,  Greeks, 
Greenlanders,  Hindoos,  Japanese,  Maltese,  Mexicans,  Russians  and  Turks,  with  57  natives 
of  Gibraltar.  Of  the  entire  population,  55,000  were  born  in  Pennsylvania,  45,- 
ooo  in  New  Jersey,  42,000  in  Massachusetts,  38,000  in  Connecticut,  31,000  in  Ver- 
mont, 11,000  in  Ohio,  7,000  each  in  New  Hampshire,  Michigan  and  Maine;  6,000  each  in 
Rhode  Island  and  Illinois  ;  and  5,000  each  in  Maryland  and  Virginia.  There  are  230,000 


THE  GENESEE  FALLS  AND  CITY  OF  ROCHESTER. 


59° 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


NEW  YORK  :    RIVERSIDE   PARK  AND   HUDSON    RIVER. 

Farming. —  The  central  and  eastern 


natives  of  New  York  in  Michigan,  120,000  in 
Illinois,  1 00,000  in  Pennsylvania,  94,000  in  New 
Jersey,  87,000  in  Wisconsin,  83,000  in  Iowa, 
64,000  in  Ohio,  and  37,000  in  Massachusetts. 

The  Empire  State  has  been  always  cosmo- 
politan in  its  make-up.  Livingston  was  of 
Scottish  origin  ;  Herkimer,  German  Palatinate  ; 
John  Jay,  Huguenot ;  Hamilton,  West-Indian ; 
Clinton,  Irish ;  Schuyler,  Dutch ;  and  Lewis, 
Welsh.  For  many  years  the  Welsh  towns  of 
Oneida,  the  Huguenots  of  Westchester,  the 
Scotch-Irish  of  Otsego,  the  Palatines  of  the 
Mohawk  Valley,  the  Vermonters  and  French - 
Canadians  of  the  northern  counties,  and  the  Con- 
necticut and  Massachusetts  colonies  in  the 
center  and  west,  preserved  their  individual 
traits, 
parts  of  New  York  are  among  the  richest  and 


most  delightful  farming  countries  in  the  world,  abounding  in  comfort  and  prosperity. 
Half  the  population  dwells  in  the  cities,  but  still  this  is  the  third  American  State  in  agri- 
cultural importance.  Although  it  has -fewer  farmers  than  I  Alabama,  Georgia,  Illinois, 
or  Ohio,  it  is  second  only  to  Illinois  in  the  value  of  its  agri-  p^  cultural  products,  whose 
average  yearly  yield  is  $178,000,000. 
It  is  the  foremost  hay-making  State,  and 
produces  one  seventh  of  the  entire  Ameri- 
can crop  (5,000,000  tons  a  year,  valued 
at  $61,000,000).  It  leads  all  its  sister 
States  in  raising  potatoes,  with  30,  ooo,  ooo 
bushels  a  year,  or  one  eighth  of  the  Na- 
tion's growth.  The  rich  orchards  of  its 
valleys  produce  one  sixth  of  the  fruit  of 
the  United  States,  and  nearly  double  the 
amount  of  its  nearest  competitor  (Penn- 
sylvania). One  seventh  of  the  butter  and  one  third  of  the  cheese  are  made  here.  Among 
other  yearly  products  of  the  soil  of  New  York  are  36,000,000  bushels  of  oats,  20,000,000 
of  corn,  9,000,000  of  wheat,  7,500,000  of  barley,  3,000,000  of  rye,  and  6,500,000  pounds 
of  tobacco.  Three  fourths  of  the  hops  of  America  are  grown  on  these 
arable  plains.  One  third  of  the  American  buckwheat  comes  from  her  farms, 
which  yield  over  300,000  bushels  a  year.  In  maple-sugar,  lumber,  and  other 


THE    HUDSON    RIVER  I     MOUNT    ST. -VINCENT    AND    FONT    HILL. 


NEW  YORK  :     THE    OBELISK, 
CENTRAL    PARK. 


forest-products  she  stands 
Of  the  14  American  coun- 
products  exceed  $5,000,- 
sylvania,  two  in   Illinois, 
eight  were  in  New  York, 
Erie,   Jefferson,   Monroe, 
Oneida,  Onondaga,  Otse- 
go, St.  Lawrence  and 
Steuben.  The  broom- 
corn  of  the  Mohawk 
Valley,  and  the  pep- 
permint     of     Lyons 
are  famous. 


among  the  foremost  States, 
ties  whose  yearly  farm- 
ooo  each  (three  in  Penn- 
and  one  in  California), 


TROY  :     THE    EARL   CREMATORY. 


THE  STATE   OF  NEW   YORK. 


591 


Government. — The  governor  and  lieutenant- 
governor  are  elected  for  three  years  (since  1879);  and 
on  alternate  years  the  people  choose  their  comptrol- 
ler, treasurer,  attorney  -  general,  secretary  of  State, 
and  State  engineer  and  surveyor.  The  judiciary  in- 
cludes the  Court  of  Appeals,  with  seven  judges, 
and  the  Supreme  Court,  of  eight  districts. 

The  Capitol  was  begun  in  1867,  on  the  noble 
heights  above  Albany,  and  has  cost  nearly  $20,000,  - 
ooo,  remaining  still  in  an  unfinished  condition.  It 
is  built  of  granite,  in  free  Renaissance  architecture, 
and  covers  nearly  four  acres,  with  a  central  court  of 

137  by  92  feet.     The  walls  are  108  feet  high,  and  CONEY  ISLAND  :  IRON  PIER. 

form  a  landmark  for  leagues  along  the  populous  Hudson  Valley.  The  State  library  of 
125,000  volumes,  the  804  flags  of  the  volunteers,  and  the  magnificent  court  and  legislative 
halls  are  the  Capitol's  treasures. 

The  National  Guard  includes  15  regiments,  one  battalion  and  44  separate  com- 
panies of  infantry,  and  five  batteries,  forming  four  brigades,  with  armories  at  Olean,  Albany, 
Auburn,  Binghamton,  Brooklyn,  Buffalo,  Elmira,  Flushing,  Hoosick  Falls,  Kingston, 
Mount  Vernon,  Newburgh,  New  York,  Oneonto,  Oswego,  Rochester,  Saratoga,  Syracuse, 
Troy,  Utica,  Walton,  and  Watertown.  The  armories  of  some  of  the  city  regiments,  like 
the  7th  and  I2th  of  New- York  City,  are  imposing  and  extensive  structures,  adapted  for 
defence.  The  State  spends  $500,000  yearly  in  the  maintenance  of  its  disciplined  militia. 
The  State  Camp  of  Instruction  was  established  at  Peekskill,  in  1882,  as  a  military  post, 
where  the  armory-drilled  militia  are  exercised  in  the  open,  in  company  and  battalion 
drill,  skirmish  and  outpost,  picket  and  field  duty,  and  minor  and  grand  tactics.  The 
regiments  spend  several  days  in  camp  here  every  summer,  under  strict  military  discipline. 
Rifle-ranges  on  Long  Island  are  devoted  to  practice  by  the  National  Guard,  with  military 
rifles,  and  have  resulted  in  great  proficiency  in  marksmanship.  A  new  rifle-range  and  a 
parade-ground  were  established  in  Van-Cortlandt  Park  in  1889. 

Charities  and  Corrections. — The  State  Board  of  Charities  has  charge  of  three 
groups,  the  State  institutions,  those  of  the  counties  and  cities,  and  those  of  benevolent 
societies.  Fully  64,000  persons  are  maintained  in  these  places,  at  a  yearly  cost  of 
$13,000,000 — $1,500,000  of  which  comes  from  the  State,  $1,800,000  from  the  counties, 
$3,300,000  from  the  cities,  and  $1,600,000  from  gifts.  The  property  held  for  these  uses 
exceeds  $54,000,000  in  appraised  value  —  $36,000,000  belonging  to  benevolent  associations, 
$11,000,000  to  the  State,  $4,000,000  to  the  cities,  and  $3,000,000  to  the  counties. 

The  State  prisons  are  at  Sing  Sing,  on  the  Hudson,  with   1,400  convicts;  Auburn,  in 


central  New  York,  1,250  convicts  ;  and  Dann< 
sea,  near  the  Adirondack  Mountains.  The 
counties,  prohibited  by  law  from  employing 
their  prisoners  at  useful  labor  in  their  peniten- 
tiaries, send  them  to  the  State  institutions, 
crowding  the  latter  to  their  utmost  capacity. 
For  a  number  of  years  the  prisons  had  been 
more  than  self-sustaining,  the  labor  of  the  con- 
victs being  contracted  for  at  40  cents  a  day. 
But  in  1886  this  system  was  abolished,  at  the 
demand  of  labor  agitators,  and  in  1 888  the 
Legislature  forbade  the  use  of  machinery,  and 
directed  that  the  output  of  the  prisons  should 
be  used  only  in  the  State  institutions.  These 


(750  convicts),  1,700  feet  above 


CONEY  ISLAND  :    BIRD'S-EYE  VIE 


592 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


changes  resulted  in  the  unhappy  idleness  of  thousands  of  convicts   withdrawn  from  the 
shops  to  their  cells,  and  the  prisons  receded  in  their  condition  and  tendency. 


The  Re- 
prison  in  the 
of  age.  The 


NEW  YORK  I  SEVENTH   REGIMENT  ARMORY. 


formatory  at  Elmira  was  founded  in  1876,  and  is  the  most  interesting 
world,  in  its  methods  of  dealing  with  first-offence  criminals  under  30  years 
sentences  are  indeterminate,  and  the  convicts,  divided  into  three  classes, 
with  differing  uniforms,  receive  industrial  training  and  con- 
ditional discharges.  They  all  first  enter  the  second  grade, 
whence  six  months  of  good  conduct  raises  them  to  the  first 
grade,  six  months  more  secures  release  on  parole, 
and  a  final  six  months  results  in  absolute  freedom. 
As  fast  as  the  prisoners  advance  in  these  grades, 
their  privileges  increase,  and  their  fare  improves. 
Evil  behavior  reduces  a  prisoner  to  the  third  grade ; 
and  incorrigible  wickedness  secures  his  transfer  to 
the  State  Prison,  to  serve  out  a  maximum  sentence. 
Eighty-two  per  cent,  of  the  men  discharged  from  Elmira  become  reputable  and  self-sup- 
porting citizens.  The  system  is  being  adopted  in  several  other  States  ;  and  appears  to  fur- 
nish one  of  the  most  fortunate  solutions  to  a  heart-breaking 
problem  of  modern  society. 

The  State  Industrial  School  at  Rochester,  and  the  House 
of  Refuge,  on  Randall's  Island,  near  New- York  City,  are  now 
about  40  years  old,  and  hold  nearly  2,000  youths.  The  first- 
named  has  become  a  school  of  technology,  whose  inmates  are 
taught  carpentering,  blacksmithing,  painting  and  other  useful 
avocations. 

There  are  large  institutions  for  the  instruction  of  deaf  mutes 
at  New  York,  Fordham,  Rome,  Rochester,  Buffalo.,  and  Malone, 
in  which  1, 500  pupils  are  supported  by  the  State.     The  Institution 
for  the  Blind,  founded  at  Batavia  in  1867,    has  120  inmates;    and 
there  are  large  establishments  for  the  same  class  in  New- York  City. 
Another  group  of  unfortunates,  the  confirmed  inebriates,  are  cared  for 
in  great  stone  buildings,  in  Tudor  castellated  architecture,  on  a  far-  NEW  YORK  : 

viewing  hill  north  of  Binghamton.  12TH  REGIMENT  ARMORY. 

About  16,000  insane  persons  are  treated  in  15  corporate  institutions,  and  in  the  State 
Asylums  at  Utica  (700  patients),  opened  in  1843  ;  Willard  (2,000),  opened  in  1869  ; 
Poughkeepsie  (700),  opened  in  1871  ;  Buffalo  (400),  opened  in  1880;  Binghamton  (1,100), 

opened  in  1 88 1,  and  Ogdensburg  (1,200), 
opened  in  1891.  At  Middletown  is  the 
Homoepathic  Asylum  for  the  Insane,  with 
600  patients.  The  State  Asylum  for  Idiots 
(500)  was  founded  at  Syracuse,  in  1851  ; 
and  the  Custodial  Asylum  for  Feeble- 
Minded  Women  (250),  at  Newark,  in 
1885.  The  Asylum  for  Insane  Criminals 
(175)  is  at  Auburn.  New- York  City 
has  5,000  insane  in  her  municipal  asy- 
lums ;  and  Brooklyn  has  2,ooo. 

The  State  Board  of  Health,  formed  in 
1880,  is  constantly  improving  the  drainage 
NEW  YORK  :  MOUNT-SINAI  HOSPITAL.  and  sewerage   and  water-supplies   of  the 

towns ;  watching  and  checking  epidemics ;  prosecuting  adulterators  of  food  and  drugs ;  and 
tabulating  vital  statistics. 


THE  STATE  OF  NEW   YORK. 


593 


BROOKLYN  :     METHODIST    GENERAL    HOSPITAL 


Education.  The  Board  of  Regents  of  the  University  attends  to  the  incorporating  and 
inspection  of  colleges  and  academies,  and  the  government  of  the  State  Library  and  Museum. 
The  normal  schools  at  Albany,  Brockport,  Buffalo,  Cortland,  Fredonia,  Geneseo,  New 
Paltz,  Oneonta,  Oswego,  and  Potsdam,  cost  $1,400,000,  and  have  6,000 
pupils.  But  in  1880,  166,625  New-Yorkers  could  not  read  ;  and  219,600 
could  not  write.  A  third  of  the  children  of 
school  age  are  in  daily  attendance  (637,000  out 
of  1,773,000).  There  are  30  Indian  schools, 
with  1,100  enrolled  students,  on  the  seven 
reservations.  The  colleges  and  professional 
schools  own  property  valued  at  $24,000,000. 
There  are  18  colleges  for  men,  and  six  for 
women,  with  9,000 students;  and  seven  schools  of  science,  13  of  theology,  four  of  law,  and 
14  of  medicine,  with  4,000  students. 

Columbia  College,  chartered  in  1754  as  King's  College,  has  its  seat  in  New- York  City,  and 
stands  among  the  foremost  of  American  colleges.  It  includes  a  School  of  Arts,  a  School  of 
Mines,  a  School  of  Law,  a  School  of  Political  Science,  a  School  of  Medicine  (the  College 
of  Physicians  and  Surgeons),  and  a  Department  of  Graduate  Instruction.  There  are  1,700 
students,  seven  eighths  of  whom  are  from  New  York  and  its  vicinity.  Columbia  has  some 
fine  modern  buildings,  and  a  library  of  100,000  volumes.  There  are  no  dormitories. 

Union  University,  at  Schenectady,  was  founded  in  1795,  and  Eliphalet  Nott  held  its 
presidency  from  1804  to  1866.  It  has  about  120  students,  besides  50  in  the  law  school, 
150  in  the  medical  school  and  50  in  the  college  of  pharmacy.  Union's  professional  schools 
are  at  Albany. 

The  University  of  the  City  of  New  York,  opened  in  1832,  has  a  handsome  Gothic  build- 
ing, of  marble,  dating  from  1832-5,  on  Washington  Square,  with  24  instructors  and  130 
students,  besides  100  in  the  post-graduate  school.  The  University  Medical  College,  founded 
in  1842,  under  Valentine  Mott,  John  William  Draper  and  others,  occupies  fine  modern 
buildings  near  Bellevue  Hospital,  with  60  instructors,  650  students  (100  foreigners),  and 
5,000  graduates.  The  University  Law  School  arose  in  1858,  and  has  140  students. 


1EW    YORK  :     CHARITABLE   AND   CORRECTIONAL   INSTITUTIONS. 


594 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


Cornell  University  was  opened  in  1868,  and  its  growth  has  been  phenomenal.  But  24 
years  old,  it  has  121  professors  and  instructors  and  1,377  students;  a  material  equipment 
that  would  be  extensive  in  an  institution  that  could  count  its  age  by  centuries ;  and  a  site 
that  is  unsurpassed  in  the  natural  beauty  of  its  surroundings.  The  University  is  established 
on  the  broad  principle  expressed  in  the  declaration  of  its  founder  :  "I  would  found  an  insti- 
tution where  any  person  can  find  instruction  in  any  study" ;  and  an  inspection  of  the  pro- 
gramme of  the  University  shows  that  in  the  brief  space  of  two  decades  the  ideal  of  Ezra 
Cornell  has  been  very  nearly  realized.  The  institution  provides  a  total  of  250  courses  of 
study,  in  the  following  departments :  Classical  Languages,  Germanic  Languages,  Romance 


ITHACA  !     CORNELL   UNIVERSITY,    AND  CAYUGA   LAKE. 

Languages,  English  Language  and  Literature,  Law,  Philosophy,  Pedagogy,  History  and 
Political  Science,  Bibliography,  Mathematics,  Physics,  Chemistry,  Metallurgy,  Pharmacy, 
Botany  and  Arboriculture,  Physiology,  Zoology,  Geology,  Agriculture  and  Horticulture, 
Veterinary  Science,  Civil  Engineering,  Architecture,  Mechanical  Engineering,  Electrical 
Engineering,  Industrial  Art,  Military  Science,  Hygiene  and  Physical  Culture.  Cornell  offers 
special  facilities  and  free  tuition  to  its  own  graduates  and  those  of  other  colleges  and  uni- 
versities who  are  accepted  as  candidates  for  advanced  degrees.  A  number  of  scholarships  of 
the  yearly  value  of  $200  and  Fellowships  of  the  yearly  value  of  $400  are  open  annually, 
through  competitive  examinations,  to  students  of  exceptional  ability.  Charles  Kendall 
Adams,  LL.  D.,  has  been  president  since  1885.  The  annual  register  of  the  institution, 
which  can  easily  be  obtained  by  application  to  the  Treasurer  of  Cornell  University,  Ithaca, 
gives  considerable  interesting  information  about  this  noble  school. 

The  University  has  received  from  benefactors  endowments  of  $1,500,000,  besides  the 
proceeds  of  990,000  acres  of  public  lands  given  by  Congress.  There  are  512  free  State 
scholarships,  for  young  men  and  women,  the  best  scholars  in  their  Assembly  districts. 
Its  many  handsome  stone  buildings  form  a  great  open  quadrangle  of  about  seventy  acres, 
situated  on  a  bold  plateau  of  270  acres,  just  east  of  Ithaca,  and  400  feet  above  Cayuga 
Lake,  down  whose  shining  leagues  the  eye  glances  entranced.  The  library  of  110,000 
volumes,  includes  Anthon's  7,000  classical  books,  Bopp's  2,500  Orientalia,  Goldwin  Smith's 
3,500  books,  Jared  Sparks'  9,000  volumes  on  American  history,  and  ex-President  Andrew  D. 
White's  1,000  architectural  books,  besides  the  30,000  volumes  in  the  Library  of  History  and 
Political  Science,  given  by  ex-President  White.  The  museum  contains  several  valuable 
collections.  McGraw  Hall,  with  its  tall  campanile,  containing  the  great  bell  and  the  chimes 
of  the  University ;  the  Sibley  College  of  the  Mechanic  Arts ;  Sage  College,  a  quadrangle 
in  Italian-Gothic  architecture,  where  the  women-students  live  ;  and  other  fine  edifices,  bear 
witness  to  the  wealth  of  Cornell.  The  great  cruciform  library  of  stone  and  tile,  glass  and 
steel,  the  most  imposing  and  costly  of  the  University  buildings,  took  over  two  years  to 
build,  and  was  the  gift  of  the  Hon.  Henry  W.  Sage,  who  also  endowed  it  with  $300,000. 


THE  STATE   OF  NEW   YORK. 


595 


Hamilton  College,  at  Clinton,  was  founded  in 
1793,  as  Hamilton  Oneida  Academy,  "for  the 
mutual  benefit  of  the  young  and  flourishing  settle- 
ments and  the  various  tribes  of  confederate  Indians. " 
The  corner-stone  was  laid  by  the  Baron  Steuben.  In 
1812,  it  was  re-chartered  as  Hamilton  College. 
There  are  13  instructors  and  1 60  students,  with  libra- 
ries of  35,000  volumes,  and  a  famous  observatory. 
Colgate  University,  at  Hamilton,  was  known  as 
Madison  University  from  1846  until  1890,  when  it 
took  the  name  of  a  family  of  generous  patrons.  It 
is  a  Baptist  institution,  with  350  students.  ITHACA  :  SAGE  COLLEGE,  CORNELL  UNIVERSITY. 

Syracuse  University,  with  its  rich  endowments,  occupies  a  campus  of  50  acres,  on  a  hill- 
top overlooking  Onondaga  Lake,  and  was  founded  by  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church  in 
1870.  It  has  colleges  of  liberal  arts,  medicine,  and  fine  arts,  with  nearly  650  students.  The 
John-Crouse  Memorial  College  for  Women  cost  $450,000,  and  was  dedicated  in  1889.  The 
University  also  has  a  handsome  Hall  of  Languages,  180  by  96  feet,  of  cut  limestone  ;  the 
well-known  Holden  Observatory  ;  and  a  fire-proof  library  building,  in  which  Leopold  Van 
Ranke's  fine  historical  library  is  kept. 

The  University  of  Rochester  owns  a  group  of  stone  buildings,  with  eleven  professors  and 
175  students.     It  was  established  by  the  Baptists  in  1850,  and  has  property  valued  at  above 
$500,000.     The  library  contains  25,000  volumes,  and  there  are  valuable  collections  in  art, 
archoeology,  and  geology,  and  the  Trevor  Observatory  and  Reynolds  Memorial  Laboratory. 
The  College  of  the  City  of  New  York  was  constituted  in  1866,  from  the  Free  Academy, 
and  has  a  large  building  in  Dutch  secular  architecture. 
There  are  50  instructors,  and  nearly  1,000  students,  more 
than  half  of  whom  belong  to  the  preparatory  school. 

The  College  of  St.  Francis  Xavier,  and  Manhattan  Col- 
lege, at  New  York ;  Niagara  University,  near  Suspension 
Bridge ;  St.  John's  College,  at  Fordham ;  and  others  per- 
tain to -the  Catholic  Church.  St. -Lawrence  University  is 
a  Universalist  institution,  with  80  students,  founded  at 
Canton  in  1856.  Hobart  College,  a  well-endowed  Epis- 
copal school,  with  75  students,  was  founded  in  1825,  at 
Geneva,  near  the  pleasant  scenery  of  Seneca  Lake.  St.- 
Stephen's  College,  opened  in  1858,  at  Annandale,  on  the 
Hudson,  educates  young  men  for  the  Episcopal  General 
Seminary,  and  occupies  several  halls,  on  a  domain  of  30 
acres.  It  has  7,000  volumes  in  its  library,  and  an  astro- 
nomical observatory.  There  are  seven  professors  and  56  students. 

Vassar  College,  one  of  the  foremost  American  schools  for  women,  has  a  noble  building, 
modelled  after  the  Tuileries  Palace,  and  several  other  structures,  with  a  rich  art-gallery,  a 
library  of  18,000  volumes,  museum  and  observatory,  on  a  campus  of 
200  acres,  along  a  highland  plain,  two  miles  east  of  Poughkeepsie, 
and  nobly  overlooking  the  Hudson  Valley.  It  was  founded  in  1865, 
by  Matthew  Vassar,  with  an  endowment  of  $400,000.  His  declared 
object  was  to  "provide  such  an  education  for  the  women  of  this 
country  as  would  be  adequate  to  give  them  a  position  of  intellectual 
equality  with  men  in  domestic  and  social  life."  There  are  34 
teachers  and  300  students.  Alfred  University  was  opened  in  1857, 
by  the  Seventh-Day  Baptists,  in  the  hill-country  of  Western  New 
York,  and  has  80  students.  Ingham  University,  at  LeRoy,  arose  in 


NEW  YORK;  UNION  THEOLOGICAL  SEMINARY. 


ALBANY  : 
DUDLEY  OBSERVATORY. 


YRACUSE:  JOHN  GROUSE  MEMORIAL  COLLEGE, 
SYRACUSE  UNIVERSITY. 


596  KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES 

1857,  from  an  older  collegiate  institute.  It  has  130  women  students.  Wells  College, 
another  girls'  school,  has  a  beautiful  situation  at  Aurora,  on  Cayuga  Lake.  The  Elmira 
Female  College  is  a  prosperous  school,  dating  from  1855.  Rutgers  Female  College  was 
founded  in  1838,  in  New-York  City;  and  became  a  college  in  1867. 

The  Pratt   Institute  for  industrial  education,  in  Brooklyn,  is  the  largest  school  of  the 
kind  in  the  world.     It  has  four  acres  of  floors,  and  three  acres  of  play- 
grounds.    The  main  building  is  of  brick  and  terra-cotta,  six  stories  high, 
with  the  buildings  of  the  department  of  mechanic  arts  in  the  rear.     These 
structures  are  both  fire-proof,  and  date  from  1885-7.     The  students 
have  the  use  of  the  great  library,  reading-rooms,  and  lecture-halls. 
Among   the     industries   practically   taught  are  sewing, 
dress-making,    millinery,     art-embroidery,     short-hand, 
type-writing,    drawing,  painting,  modelling,  wood-carv- 
ing, architecture,  and  mechanical  drawing,  with  lectures 
from  accomplished  masters.      The  fifth  floor  contains  a 
noble  technical  museum,  and  another  story  is  given  to  the 
cooking-schools.    The  department  of  mechanics  includes 
smithies,  a  foundry,  machine-shops,  carpenter-shops,  and 
facilities  for  teaching  the  building-trades,  bricklaying, 
stone-carving,  plumbing,  and  other  departments. 

The  Rensselaer  Polytechnic  Institute  was  founded  in  1824,  at  Troy,  by  Stephen  Van 
Rensselaer,  as  a  school  of  theoretical  and  practical  science  ;  and  now  has  18  instructors  and 
1 60  students  (60  from  other  States,  and  13  foreigners).     The  Institute  owns 
large  collections  of  minerals,  shells  and  birds,  and  has  several  good  buildings. 
The  Nautical  School  of  the  Port  of  New  York  has  120  boys,  who  are 
taught  for  two  years,  cruising  meanwhile  on  the  war- 
ship St.  Mary's. 

The  Chautauqua  University  is  on  the  correspond- 
ence method  of  home-reading,  directed  by  the  society, 
and  has  had  over  100,000  members  since  Bishop  John 
H.  Vincent  founded  it,  in  1878.  The  offices  of  this 
magnificent  jDopular  movement  are  at  Buffalo,  and  its 
summer-home  is  at  Chautauqua  Lake. 

The  theological  seminaries  are  Hamilton,  the  oldest 
American  Baptist  divinity  school  (opened  in  1819), 
with  large  endowments,  several  buildings  and  130  acres 
of  land,  50  students,  and  a  library  of  20,000  volumes  ; 
Rochester,  opened  in  1851,  a  Baptist  school,  with  $500,000  endowment  and  several  fine 
buildings,  over  1,000  graduates  (one  fourth  Germans),  ten  instructors  and  100  students,  and 
a  library  of  24,000  volumes  (including  Neander's  private  library) ;  the  Christian  Biblical 
Institutes,  founded  in  1869  at  Standfordville  and  Eddytown,  by  the  Christians  ; 
the  General  Theological  Seminary  of  the  Episcopal  Church,  founded  in  1817, 
with  imposing  buildings  on  Chelsea  Square,  New- York  City,  nine  professors 
and  90  students,  a  library  of  22,000  volumes,  and 
real-estate  valued  at  $600,000;  DeLancey  Divin- 
ity School,  at  Geneva ;  St.  -Andrew's  Divinity 
School,  founded  by  Churchmen  in  1876,  at  Syra- 
cuse ;  Hardwick  Seminary,  established  by  the 
Lutherans  in  1815,  in  Otsego  County;  Auburn 
Theological  Seminary,  founded  in  1819,  for  the 
teaching  of  strong  Princeton  Presbyterian  doctrine, 
and  possessing  several  fine  buildings,  eight  pro-  NEW  YORK  .  GENERAL  THEOLOGICAL  SEMINARY. 


NEW  YORK   :    COLUMBIA  COLLEGE. 


THE  STATE   OF  NEW   YORK. 


597 


NEW  YORK : 


fessors,   50  students,   and    700  graduates  ;    Union  Theo- 

logical Seminary,   opened  at  New-  York  City  in  1836  by 

New-  School   Presbyterians,  and  now  possessing  property 

worth  $1,500,000,  a  library  of  nearly  60,000  volumes,  ten 

instructors,    130  students,  and  1,500  graduates;  and  the 

Universalist  Divinity  School  at  Canton,  founded  in  1858, 

and  possessing  five  instructors  and  14  students.   The  Catho- 

lics are   served  by   St.  -Joseph's  Provincial    Seminary,   at 

Troy,  with  seven  instructors  and  120  students  ;   St.  Bona- 

venture's,  at  Allegany  ;  and  the  Seminary  of  Our  Lady  of    COLLEGE  OF  PHYSICIANS  AND  SURGEONS. 

Angels,  Suspension  Bridge,  near  the  stupendous  gorge  of  the  Niagara  River  below  the  falls. 
There  are  law  schools  at  New  York,  Albany,  Clinton,  and  Ithaca  ;  medical  schools  at 

New-  York  (nine  in  number),  Buffalo  (two),  Syracuse,  Brooklyn,  and  Albany;    a  dental 

school  at  New  York  ;    pharmaceutical  schools  at  Albany,  Buffalo,  and  New  York  ;    and 

a  veterinary  school  at  New  York. 

New  York  has  57  public  libraries  of  above  10,000  volumes,  the  chief  of  which  are  the 

Astor,   225,000  volumes;    Mercantile,   215,000;    New-  York  Society,   80,000;    New-  York 

Historical  Society,  75,000;  Columbia  College,  70,000;  Apprentices',  70,000;  Union  The- 

ological Seminary,  50,000;    and  Lenox,  25,000,  all  in  New-  York  City;  Brooklyn,  90,000, 

and  Long-Island  Historical  Society,  42,000,  at  Brooklyn;  Buffalo,  66,000,  and  Grosvenor, 

32,000,  at  Buffalo  ;    the  great  State  libraries  at  Albany  ;    and  the  college  libraries.     These 

collections  contain  upwards  of  2,000,000  volumes. 

Religion  is  professed  in  this  great  commonwealth  by  more  than  1,200,000  persons, 
representing  an  attendance  of  4,000,000.  There  are  nearly 
7,000  churches,  valued,  with  the  connected  ecclesiastical 
properties,  at  $125,000,000;  and  70  religious  sects  find 
adherents  here.  The  Catholic  Province  of  New  York 
includes  the  States  of  New  Jersey  and  New  York.  The 
State  contains  the  dioceses  of  New  York,  Albany,  Brook- 
lyn, Rochester,  and  Buffalo.  The  Cathedral  of  St. 
Patrick,  in  New-  York  City,  is  the  most  magnificent  church 
in  America,  a  decorated  Gothic  building  of  white  marble, 
with  two  richly  carved  marble  spires,  70  great  windows  of 
stained  glass  from  Chartres,  and  several  costly  altars  of 

marble  and  gems.     It  was  built  in  1858-79,  at  a  cost  of  $2,000,000.     The  huge  and  fortress- 

like  Church  of  St.  Paul  the  Apostle  is  the  headquarters  of  the  celebrated  preaching  Order 

of  the  Paulists,  whose  monastery  adjoins  it.     One  of  the  most  celebrated  Catholic  shrines 

in  the  United  States  is  the  chapel  of  Our  Lady  of  Martyrs,  at  Auriesville,  in  the  Mohawk 

Valley,  commemorating  the  martyrdom  of  Father  Jogues  at  the  hands  of  the  Indians. 
New  York  is  divided  into  five  Protestant  Episcopal  dioceses,  New  York,  Long  Island, 

Albany,  Central  New  York,  and  Western  New  York,  founded  between  1785  and  1863.    There 

are  900  churches  and  50,000  communicants.    The  Cathedral  of  St.  John  the  Divine  is  about 

to  be  erected  on  the  heights  near  Morningside  Park,  in  New-  York  City  ;  and  if  the  outlined 

plans  are  carried  out,  it 

will  be  the  most  magnifi- 

cent   church    in     North 

America.   The  Cathedral 

of  the  Incarnation,  at  Gar- 

den   City,    is    a   Gothic 


POUGHKEEPSIE  :  VASSAR  COLLEGE. 


TROY  : 

RENSSELAER   POLYTECHNIC    INSTITUTE. 


Stained    windows,    six 


598  KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED  STATES. 

organs,  a  bronze  pulpit,  and  the  mausoleum  of  A.  T.  Stewart.  Near  by  stands  St. -Paul's 
School,  and  the  See-House. of  Long  Island.  The  Cathedral  of  All  Saints,  at  Albany,  was 
begun  by  Bishop  Doane,  in  1884,  in  Spanish  Gothic  architecture,  270  feet  long,  with  many 


rich    memorial 
The  antique- 
will  not  be  fin- 
The    richest 


AURORA  :    WELLS  COLLEGE. 


furnishings  and  windows,  and  a  noble  rood-screen  and  altar, 
carved  stalls  came  from  a  mediaeval  Belgian  church.  All  Saints 
ished  for  many  years. 

religious  society  in  America  is  Trinity  Episcopal  Parish,  in 
New- York  City.  It  received  from  Queen  Anne  in  1705  a  tract 
of  land  on  Manhattan  Island,  which,  with  its 
buildings,  is  now  worth  $9,000,000.  Unfortu- 
nately,  most  of  it  has  been  given  away  by  the 
parish.  The  income  remaining  is  devoted  to 
founding  and  maintaining  chapels  and  missions, 
and  to  benefactions  among  the  poor.  The 
cathedral-like  old  stone  church,  with  a  spire 
284  feet  high,  holding  the  finest  chime  of  bells 
in  the  country,  stands  on  Broadway,  at  the 
head  of  Wall  Street.  It  was  finished  in  1846,  Richard  M.  Upjohn  being  the  architect. 

Lutherans  came  to  Manhattan  among  the  first  immigrants,  but  were  prohibited  from 
having  a  church.  In  1671,  however,  they  erected  a  house  of  worship;  and  about  40  years 
later  grew  strong  by  the  accession  of  the  Palatines,  a  great  body  of  Germans  driven  from 
the  Lower  Palatinate  of  the  Rhine  by  the  armies  of  Louis  XIV.  of  France. 

The  Presbyterian  House  (the  old  Lenox  mansion,  in  New- York  City),  contains  some 
of  the  chief  offices  of  this  denomination.  Dr.  John  Hall's 
church  in  New- York  City  is  the  largest  Presbyterian  church 
in  the  world.  The  State  religion  of  New  Netherland,  for  30 
years  was  the  Reformed  Protestant  Dutch  Church,  which 
was  re-named  the  Reformed  Church  in  1869.  It  has  ten 
Classes  in  New  York.  Some  of  the  most  extraordinary  of 
American  religious  beliefs  and  social  experiments  sprang 
from  the  Empire  State.  At  New  Lebanon,  on  the  Massa- 
chusetts border,  is  an  industrious  Shaker  community  of  500 
persons,  founded  in  1780  by  Mother  Ann  Lee  as  "the  capi- 
tal of  the  Shaker  world,"  and  kept  up  after  her  death  by  the 
hierarchy  of  the  Holy  Lead.  Elias  Hicks,  the  founder  of 
a  well-known  Quaker  sect,  lived  and  preached  on  Long 
Island  from  1771  to  1830.  The  first  "raps"  of  Spiritualism 
were  heard  at  Hydeville,  by  the  Fox  sisters,  in  1849,  since 
which  time  this  belief  has  spread  over  many  countries.  The  Foxes  soon  afterward  moved 
to  Rochester,  "the  Bethlehem  of  the  new  dispensation,"  and  gave  public  tests  and  mani- 
festations, demonstrating  to  the  belief  of  many  people  the  possibility  of  intelligent 
communication  with  the  unseen  world. 

One  of  the  two  chief  centres  of  the  Millerite  fanaticism  was  Rochester,  where,  in  1844, 
thousands  assembled  in  Talman  Hall  to  await  the  world's 
end.  The  Church  of  Jesus  Christ  of  Latter-Day  Saints 
was  founded  in  1830,  at  Fayette  (N.  Y.),  by  a  Vermont 
religious  enthusiast  named  Joseph  Smith,  who  claimed  to 
have  found  the  Book  of  Mormon,  inscribed  on  golden 
plates,  and  buried  in  the  hill  Cumorah  (near  Manchester, 
N.  Y.).  Suffering  great  persecutions  the  Church  in  184; 
made  its  wonderful  exodus  of  1, 500  miles  across  the  plains 
NEW  YORK  :  THE  COOPER  UNION.  to  Utah.  In  1847  John  H-  Noycs  founded  the  cele- 


BROOKLYN  :      PRATT  INSTITUTE. 


THE  STATE   OF  NEW   YORK. 


599 


brated  Oneida  Community,  based  on  a  thrifty  communism,  but  for  many  years  obnoxious  for 
its  unconventional  family  ways.  Since  1 88 1  it  has  been  simply  a  business  corporation. 
Gerrit  Smith  of  Utica  inherited  one  of  the  largest  land  domains  in  America,  and  gave  away 
200,000  acres,  mostly  in  5O-acre  farms,  to  poor  men.  He  be- 
came one  of  the  noblest  leaders  in  the  Anti- Slavery  cause. 
Rochester  was  one  of  the  chief  places  of  the  Anti-Slavery 
movement,  under  Myron  Holley  and  Frederick  Douglass  ;  and 
John  Brown  planned  his  Harper's-Ferry  raid  here.  The 
Woman's-Suffrage  agitation  has  also  been  largely  generaled 
from  Rochester,  for  many  years  the  home  of  Susan  B.  An- 
thony, "the  Napoleon  of  the  Woman's- Rights  Movement." 
The  dress-reform  movement  illustrated  by  the  Bloomer  cos- 
tume was  inaugurated  by  Mrs.  Amelia  Bloomer,  at  Seneca  Falls,  in  1849. 

The  mysterious  semi- Pagan  rites  of  the  Indians  on  their  reservations,  and  the  worship- 
ping ceremonies  of  the  Chinamen  in  their  joss-houses,  are  allowed  and  guarded  by  this 
tolerant  commonwealth. 

And  when  their  doubts  are  solved  in  the  white  light  of  Eternity,  the  last  remains  of  the 
people  are  consigned  to  the  most  beautiful  cemeteries  in  the  world.  The  peerless  Green- 
wood, near  Brooklyn,  was  begun  in  1842,  and  now  covers  450  acres,  with  220,000  graves 
and  37  miles  of  avenues  and  paths,  overlooking  the  quiet  beauties  of  the  bay.  Elsewhere 


NEW  YORK  :    LENOX  LIBRARY. 


around  New 
with  75,000; 
lawn  (1863), 


York  are  Cypress  Hills (1848), with  120,000  graves;  Evergreen  (1851), 
Calvary  (1848),  a  Catholic  cemetery,  with  400,000  interments;  Wood- 
on  the  Harlem  Railroad ;  the  Lutheran,  with  100,000  graves  ;  and  many 
other  final  resting-places.   Other  cities  are  also  adorned  with 
these  embowered  God's-acres,  like  the  Rural,  at  Albany; 
Oakwood,  at  Troy ;  Forest-Lawn,  at  Buffalo ;  Mount  Hope, 
near  Rochester ;  and  Forest-Hills,  at  Utica. 

The  National  Institutions  in  New  York  are  of  great 
importance  and  renown.     The  United- States  Military  Acad- 
emy occupies  2,200  acres  on  the  historic  promontory  of  West 
Point,  amid   the  Highlands  of  the   Hudson,  with  ancient 
BUFFALO  :  MUSIC  HALL.  castellated  stone  barracks  and  academic  buildings,  several 

batteries,  and  the  ruins  of  the  Revolutionary  forts  which  made  this  for  a  time  the  Gibraltar 
of  America.  Here  are  preserved  standards  and  trophies  of  the  Shawnee,  Seminole,  British, 
Mexican,  Secession,  and  other  wars;  famous  cannon,  won  from  the  enemies  of  the  Repub- 
lic ;  and  the  graves  of  Gens.  Scott,  Anderson,  Custer,  Kilpatrick,  Thayer,  Buford,  and 
other  military  chieftains.  The  library  occupies  a  handsome  stone  building,  and  contains 
37,000  volumes,  and  portraits  of  many  old-time  offi- 
cers; and  Grant  Hall,  where  the  cadets  take  their 
meals,  is  adorned  with  large  portraits  of  Grant,  Sher- 
man, Sheridan  and  other  generals.  The  parade 
ground  has  statues  of  Gen.  Sedgwick  and  Col.  Syl- 
vanus  Thayer,  "The  Father  of  the  Military  Acad- 
emy. "  One  company  of  engineer  troops  is  stationed  at 
this  post.  A  number  of  officers  are  detached  for  duty 
in  instruction.  This  locality  was  chosen  by  Washing- 
ton for  the  site  of  a  National  military  school,  which 
opened  in  1812.  Every  Congressional  district  is  en- 
titled to  send  here  one  youth,  physically  perfect,  and 
well-grounded  in  elementary  studies.  Cadets  receive 
$540  a  year  for  four  years,  with  a  discipline  and  instruc- 
tion unequalled  elsewhere  in  America  for  exaction  and 


BUFFALO  t 
BUFFALO  LIBRARY  AND  SOLDIERS'  MONUMEf' 


6oo 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE    UNITED   STATES. 


NEW  YORK : 
TRINITY   CHURCH  AND  MARTYRS'   MONUMENT. 


thoroughness.  The  graduates  enter  upon  the  rank  and  pay  of  second  lieutenants  of  the 
regular  army,  and  are  sent  to  the  frontiers.  There  are  300  cadets,  in  a  battalion  of  four  com- 
panies, uniformed  in  gray ;  and  they  pass  two  months  of  each  year  in  camp,  and  ten  months 
in  barracks.  This  is  the  great  school  of  the  people,  where  absolute  democracy 
reigns.  Here  the  foremost  generals  of  the  Republic  have  been  educated:  Grant, 
Sherman,  Sheridan,  Thomas,  Hancock,  Howard,  Hooker,  McClellan,  Buell, 
and  many  others ;  besides  Lee,  Jackson,  Johnson,  Beauregard,  Longstreet,  John- 
ston, and  other  Southern  leaders.  The  scenery  of  this  region  is  of  great  beauty 
and  nobility,  and  includes  the  deep-green  highlands,  the  broad  vistas  of  the  Hud- 
I  son,  and  line  after  line  of  far-away  blue  mountains,  receding  in  the  distance. 

The  Engineer  School  of  Application  is  at  Willett's 
Point,  on  Long-Island  Sound,  and  provides  practical 
instruction  for  the  younger  engineer  officers,  and  tor- 
pedo-practice for  artillery  officers.  This  post  is  the 
headquarters  of  the  Battalion  of  Engineers,  U.  S.  A., 
of  which  three  companies  (370  men)  are  stationed  here, 
and  the  remaining  company  at  West  Point. 

The  United-States  Arsenal  at  Watervliet,  near  Troy, 
was  founded  by  Col.  Bomford,  in  1814,  and  covers  over 
100  acres,  with  40  buildings  for  making, 
repairing  and  storing  munitions 
of  war.  In  1861-5,  1, 500  per- 
sons were  employed  here, 

day  and  night.  Many  military  trophies  are  preserved  on  the 
grounds.  The  great  gun-factory  for  the  United- States  Army 
has  recently  been  established  here. 

The  United- States  Navy  Yard  at  Brooklyn  is  the  chief 
naval  station  of  the  Republic,  and  contains  many  acres  of 
foundries,  store-houses,  and  workshops,  trophy-batteries,  and 
a  naval  museum,  large  barracks  and  hospitals,  and  two  docks, 
which  cost  $5,000,000. 

The  military  defences  of  New- York 
City  include  the  great  fortresses  at  the 
Narrows,  converging  the  fire  of  400  heavy 
guns  on  a  passage  less  than  a  mile  wide. 

Fort  Wadsworth,  on  Staten  Island,  is  supported  by  several  detached 
cliff-batteries,  and  Fort  Tompkins  ;  and  on  the  opposite  shore,  under 
Bay  Ridge,  rise  the  granite  walls  of  Fort  Hamilton,  with  modern  de- 
tached  batteries.       On  a  reef  in  the  stream  are   the  ruins  of  Fort 
Lafayette,  once  famous  as  a  military  prison  for  disloyal  Southerners. 
The   inner  harbor  has  300  cannon   in  position,  in  Forts   Columbus, 
Gibson  and  Wood,    on  the  islands.      Governor's  Island, 
only  half  a   mile  from  the  Battery,   contains  the  three- 
story  fortress  of  Castle  William,  dating  from  1811  ;   Fort 
Columbus,   a  star-shaped  work  mounting  120  guns; 
the  National  Military  Museum ;   and  extensive   bar- 
racks and  magazines.     The  approaches  to  New- York 
City  from  Long-Island  Sound  are   guarded  by  the 
massive  works  of  Fort  Schuyler,  on  Throgg's  Neck, 
and  other  defences. 

Fort  Montgomery,  near  Rouse's  Point,  commands 
NEW  YORK  :  ST.  PATRICK'S  CATHEDRAL.          the  Richelieu  River,  and  was  commenced  about  1815. 


NEW  YORK  :  TEMPLE  EMANUEL 


THE  STATE   OF  NEW   YORK. 


60 1 


It  is  a  large  stone  fortress,  with  a  capacity  of  164 
guns.      Fort  Ontario,  at  Oswego,  has  been  a  military 
post  for  more  than  a  century,  and  suffered  bombard- 
ment from  Sir  James  Yeo's  fleet  in  1814.   Fort  Niagara 
is  a  small  and  ancient  defence  at  the  mouth  of  Niagara 
River.      Fort  Porter,  at  Buffalo,  built  in  1842-8,  and 
a  military  depot  during  the  Secession  War,  has  been 
replaced  by  barracks.      Sackett's  Harbor,  the  seat  of 
the  chief  naval  station  on  Lake  Ontario 
in  the  war  of  1812,  and  often  attacked  by 
British  squadrons,  is  guarded  by  the  Madi- 
son   Barracks.     Another  large    military 
cantonment    was    established  at  Platts- 
burg  in    1838,  and  is  still  in  use.     The 
National  buildings  include  the  Post-Office 
(finished  in  1875;  having  cost  $7,000,000), 
Custom-House  (built  in  1835  ;  cost  $1,- 
800,000),  and  the  beautiful  marble  Sub- 
Treasury  at  New- York  City,  and  the  huge 
and  costly  public  offices  at  Brooklyn,   Albany,  and 
other  cities. 

The  Chief  Cities  of  the  Empire  State  are  among 
the  most  attractive  and  prosperous  on  the   western 
continent.      The  great  metropolis  and   emporium  of 
the  State  and  of  the  Republic  is  New  York,  second 
only  to  London  in  population  and  influence,  and  with 
its    contiguous    and  dependent   municipalities  main- 
taining a  population   of  2,500,000.     The  city  proper 
occupies    Manhattan  Island,  13  miles  long,  between 
the  Hudson  River  and  the  deep  estuary  of  the  East 
River,  together  with  12,500 
(annexed  in  1874)  ;  and  now 
with  its  two  deep  ship-chan- 
New-York    Bay    is    entered 
tween  Staten  Island  and 


GARDEN    CITY  \    CATHEDRAL  AND  SCHOOLS. 


ses.  This  magnificent 
lyn,  New  York  and  Jersey 
tains.  It  is  one  of  the 
world.  Nearly  two  thirds 
United  States  passes 


NEW  YORK  :  MADISON  SQUARE  GARDEN. 


acres  of  the  mainland  on  the  north,  as  far  as  Yonkers 
has  about    1,600,000  inhabitants.     The   Lower  Bay, 
nels,  lies  between  Sandy  Hook  and  Coney  Island  ;  and 
thence  by  the  picturesque  strait  called  the  Narrows,  be- 
Long  Island,  and  hemmed  with  heavily-armed  fortres- 
inner  harbor  is  fringed  by  the  populous  shores  of  Brook- 
City,  and  overlooked  by  the  blue  Orange  Moun- 
'{.     most  beautiful  and  impressive  harbors  in  the 
fc  of  the   import   and   export   business   of  the 
'£')  through   this   port.     New  York   is  also  the 
foremost  manufacturing  city  in  America,  with 
11,000  factories,  making  upwards  of  $500,- 
000,000  worth  of  goods  yearly  ($80,000,000 
worth  of  clothing,  $25,000,000  worth  of 
books   and    papers,    and    $18,000,000 
worth  of  cigars).     The  chief  gateway 
of  the  Republic   for   European   immi- 
grants, until  1891,  was  Castle  Garden, 
on   Battery   Park,    where    ten   million 
persons    made    their    first    landing    in 
America.     Its  largest  structure  is  the  old 
fortress  of  Castle  Clinton,  built  in  1807, 


602 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE  UNITED  STA  TES. 


NEW  YORK  :    NATIONAL  ACADEMY  OF  DESIGN. 


and  ceded  to  New  York  in  1823.  Immigrants  are  now 
received  at  Ellis  Island.  Many  of  the  arriving  Europeans 
settle  in  the  metropolis,  one  sixth  of  whose  population 
is  Irish,  and  one  eighth  German,  with  large  colonies  of 
Britons,  Canadians,  Frenchmen,  Italians,  Russians, 
Spaniards,  Chinamen,  and  other  nationalities.  This  is 
the  most  cosmopolitan  of  American  cities,  with  a  Par- 
isian vivacity  and  brilliancy,  and  an  astonishing  ver- 
satility of  gifts.  With  its  great  publishing  houses,  the 
Harpers,  Scribners,  Appletons  and  others,  its  inimitable 
magazines,  and  its  strong  literary  societies,  New  York 
rivals  Boston  as  a  centre  of  letters.  In  music  and  in 
art  it  holds  an  indisputable  preeminence.  The  Metropolitan  Museum  of  Art,  in  Central 
Park,  is  one  of  the  largest  collections  in  the  world,  and  much  the  most  important  in 
America,  with  its  Cesnola  treasure-trove  from  Cyprus,  the  Summerville  gems,  valuable 
collections  of  statuary,  and  many  hundreds  of  paintings,  including  Rosa  Bonheur's  Horse 
Fair,  Rubens's  Return  from  Egypt,  Couture's  Decadence  of  Rome,  Rembrandt's  Burgomaster, 
Velazquez's  Don  Baltasar,  Van  Dyck's  Duke  of  Richmond,  Turner's  Saltash,  and  many 
other  noble  works.  The  gallery  of  the  Lenox  Library  has  150  fine  pictures,  by  Turner, 
Gainsborough,  Reynolds,  Vernet  and  other  masters.  The  American  Museum  of  Natural 
History  is  a  mammoth  structure,  on  one  side  of  Central  Park,  containing  collections  of 
birds,  shells,  fossils,  birds'  nests,  minerals,  reptiles,  fishes,  and  ethnological  antiquities,  un- 
rivalled elsewhere  in  America.  Among  the  statues  in  New- 
York  City  are  those  of  Washington,  Lafayette,  Lincoln,  Ham- 
ilton, Farragut,  Webster,  Seward,  Shakespeare,  Burns,  Sir 
Walter  Scott,  Franklin,  Garibaldi,  Fitz-Greene  Halleck,  and 
Bolivar,  with  colossal  bronze  busts  of  Mazzini,  Schiller,  Hum- 
boldt,  and  Beethoven.  The  Obelisk,  in  Central  Park,  was 
erected  in  Egypt  3,500  years  ago  by  King  Thutmes  III., 
and  brought  here  in  1877,  by  Wm.  H.  Vanderbilt.  Many 
of  the  statues  are  in  Central  Park,  the  most  beautiful 
and  popular  pleasure-ground  in  America,  constructed  since 
1856,  at  a  cost  of  $15,000,000,  and  covering  862  acres,  five 
miles  north  of  the  Battery. 

Among  the  wonders  of  the  city  are  the  elevated  railroads,  with  their  trains  of  cars  con- 
tinually flying  up  and  down  Manhattan  Island ;  the  swarms  of  great  steam  ferry-boats, 
traversing  the  East  River  and  Hudson  River ;  the  municipal  palaces  on  City-Hall  Square; 
the  vast  prisons  and  asylums  on  Blackwell's,  Randall's  and  Ward's  Islands ;  the  summer 
pleasures  of  Coney  Island,  Rockaway  and  Long  Branch ;  the  luxurious  homes  of  Fifth 
Avenue,  where  the  Vanderbilts,  Belmonts,  Lorillards,  Astors,  and  others  dwell ;  the  pala- 
tial club-houses  of  the  Union  League,  Manhattan,  St.  Nicholas,  University,  and  other 
clubs;  the  rich  collections  of  the  Geographical,  Historical,  Ethnological,  Numismatic,  Micro- 
scopical, Horticultural  and  other  societies ;  the  fortress-like  armories  of  the  militia  regi- 
ments; and  the  prodigious  buildings  of  the 
World,  Times,  Tribune,  Staats  Zeitung 
and  other  newspapers  on  Printing- House 
Square. 

The  great  city  of  Brooklyn,  famous  for 
its  hundreds  of  churches,  is  practically  a 
residence-quarter  of  New  York.     Its  pop- 
Elation  has  increased  from  7,175  in  1820 
NEW  YORK  :  METROPOLITAN  MUSEUM  OF  ART.  to  over  8oo,ooo  in  1890.    It  has  eight  miles 


NEW  YORK  :    METROPOLITAN    OPERA    HOUSE. 


THE  STATE   OF  NEW   YORK. 


6o3 


of  water-front,  on  East  River  and  Gowanus  Bay, 
with  huge  docks  and  basins,  where  $300,000,000 
worth  of  goods  are  stored  every  year.  Prospect  Park 
covers  over  600  acres,  with  delightful  ocean-views, 
and  has  no  superior  in  America.  Green  Wood 
Cemetery  is  the  most  beautiful  in  the  world.  Brook - 

NEW-YORK  HARBOR  :  lyn  is  the  fourth  American  city  in  manufactures,  its 

CASTLE  WILLIAM,  ON  GOVERNOR'S  ISLAND.  products  amounting  to  $180,000,000  yearly. 
Buffalo  is  one  of  the  three  chief 
ports  on  the  Great  Lakes,  with  enor- 
mous receipts  of  grain,  lumber  and 
live-stock,  and  shipments  of  coal,  salt 
and  cement,  and  long  lines  of  ele- 
vators and  flour-mills.  This  city  comes 

close  to  Pittsburgh, in  its  iron  and  steel  NEW-YORK  HARBOR  :  FORT  WADSWORTH,  ON  STATEN  ISLAND. 
works,  and  also  has  oil-refineries,  breweries,  leather-works  and  many  other  manufactories, 
employing  18,000  operatives,  and  with  a  yearly  product  of  $45,000,000.  There  are  many  in- 
teresting public  buildings ;  and  handsome  parks  and  boulevards,  which  have  cost  $1,500,000. 
The  harbor  is  the  best  on  Lake  Erie,  with  protecting  breakwaters  and  a  tall  light-house  ;  and 
the  Erie  Basin  is  the  beginning  of  the  world-renowned  Erie  Canal.  Nineteen  railroads 
enter  Buffalo;  and  four  steamship  lines,  with  56  first-class  steamers,  of  from  1, 800  to  2,800 
tons,  running  to  the  ports  I  of  the  Great  Lakes.  Over  160,000,000  bushels  of  grain 
and  flour  have  been  received  &  h_  here  in  a  single  year.  The  City  and  County  Hall  is  a 

noble  structure  of  Maine  granite,  built  at  a  cost 
°f  $I>35OJ°OO>  and  occupied  in  1876.  The 
Music-Hail  building  is  a  handsome  Romanesque 
edifice.  The  Buffalo  Library  has  a  magnificent 
fire-proof  building,  finished  in  1887,  at  a  cost 
of  $350,000,  and  containing  also  the  Fine-Arts 
Academy,  Society,  of  Natural  History,  and 
Buffalo  Historical  Society. 
There  are  30  cities  in  this  great  State.  Albany,  142  miles  up  the  Hudson,  was  founded 
by  the  Dutch,  as  Fort  Orange,  in  1623,  and  is  at  the  eastern  end  of  the  great  Erie  Canal, 
with  magnificent  State,  city  and  ecclesiastical  buildings,  and  a  situation  which  has  won 
for  it  the  name  of  "The  Edinburgh  of  America."  Here  also  are  great  stove- foundries, 
breweries,  and  cattle-yards,  employing  15,000  persons.  Amsterdam  (17,336  inhabitants), 
with  its  great  knit-goods  and  broom  factories,  rests  on  the  rich  intervales  of  the  Mohawk. 
Auburn  (25,858),  the  capital  of  Cayuga  County,  utilizes  the  water-power  of  the  Owasco 
Outlet.  Binghamton  (35,005),  "The  Parlor  City," 
is  an  iron  and  coal  handling  railroad  centre  on  the  Sus- 

quehanna  and  Chenango.    Cohoes  (22, 509),  three  miles    .;         ^^     >"W  .-  -*- 

from  Troy,  has  a  great  water-power  at  the  mouth  -^*t^isMir4ii=^7«'- 

of  the  Mohawk,  with  many  factories.  Dunkirk 
(9,416)  extends  along  an  artifical  harbor 
on  Lake  Erie.  Elmira  (29,708),  on  the 
Chemung,  is  the  chief  city  of  the  southern 
tier  of  counties,  with  car-shops  and  a  large 
country  trade.  Hornellsville  (10,996)  has 
several  railways  among  the  hills  of  Steu- 
ben.  Hudson  (9,970),  on  a  high  plateau 
at  the  head  of  ship-navigation  on  the  Hud- 


BROOKLYN  :  CITY  HALL  AND  COURT  HOUSE. 


son  River,  was  founded  in  1 783  by  New- 


BROOKLYN  :  GREEN  WOOD  CEMETERY  ENTRANCE. 


604  KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 

Englanders  as  a  whaling-port.  Ithaca  (i  1,079)  rests  in  a  beautiful  regioa  of  glens  and  cas- 
cades, at  the  head  of  Cayuga  Lake.  Jamestown  (16,038)  is  on  the  outlet  of  Chautauqua 
Lake.  Kingston  (21,261),  the  venerable  capital  of  Ulster,  with  its  academies,  lies  on  the 
Hudson,  near  the  Catskill  Mountains,  and  ships  blue-stone,  brick  and  hydraulic  cement. 
Lockport  (16,038)  has  the  long  series  of  locks  by  which  the  Erie  Canal  descends  from  the 
Erie  level  to  the  Genesee  level.  Long-Island  City  (30,506)  fronts  New-York  City,  across 
the  East  River.  Middletown  (11,977)  lies  near  the  Shawangunk  Mountains,  and  supplies 
the  Orange  Valley.  Newburgh  (23,087)  has  a  pleasant  site  on  the  Hudson,  just  above 
West  Point,  with  great  shipments  of  Pennsylvania  coal.  The  mystery  of  ice-yachting  has 
its  highest  development  here.  Ogdensburg  (11,662)  is  on  the  St. -Lawrence  River,  and 
handles  great  quantities  of  grain.  Oswego  (21,842),  the  chief  harbor  on  Lake  Ontario, 
is  another  important  grain-port,  with  large  flour-mills.  Poughkeepsie  (22,206)  crowns  a 
breezy  plateau  by  the  Hudson,  and  has  several  famous  schools  and  a  valuable  country-trade. 
Rochester,  at  the  Genesee  Falls,  seven  miles  from  Lake  Ontario,  contains  immense  flour- 
mills,  and  world-renowned  nurseries  of  flowers  and  fruits.  Rome  (14,991)  is  a  railway 
and  canal  centre,  with  farming- implement  factories,  on  the  site  of  old  Fort  Stanwix,  near 
the  Mohawk.  Schenectady  (19,902)  is  an  old  Dutch  city  on  the  Mohawk  meadows,  with 
car,  locomotive  and  machine  works,  17  miles  west  of  Albany.  Syracuse,  near  Onondaga 
Lake  and  its  great  salt-works,  and  midway  between  Albany  and  Buffalo  (hence  called  "The 
Central  City"),  has  costly  public  buildings  and  lucrative  manufactures,  and  a  large  Lake- 
Ontario  commerce.  Troy,  six  miles  north  of  Albany,  and  at  the  head  of  steam  navigation 
on  the  Hudson,  is  famous  for  its  stove-foundries  and  rolling-mills  and  laundries.  Utica  is 
a  railway  and  canal  centre,  in  the  rich  and  prosperous  centre  of  New  York.  Watertown 
(14,725)  has  several  factories  on  the  rapids  of  Black  River,  in  the  north.  Yonkers  (32,033) 
is  a  handsome  suburb  of  New-York  City,  on  the  Hudson  and  facing  the  Palisades.  Among 
the  other  large  towns  are  Corning,  8,550;  Flushing,  10,868;  Geneva,  5,878;  Glovers- 
ville,  13,864;  Lansingburgh,  10,550;  Little  Falls,  8,783;  Mount  Vernon,  10,677;  New 
Brighton,  16,423;  New  Rochelle,  8,318;  Peekskill,  9,676;  Port  Jervis,  9,327;  Saratoga 
Springs,  11,975;  Sing  Sing,  9,352  ;  and  West  Troy,  12,967. 

In  Maritime  Commerce  and  ship-building  New  York  leads  all  the  States.  She 
builds  one  fifth  (in  value)  of  the  American  commercial  fleets,  and  owns  one  fourth  of 
them.  Five  eighths  of  the  canal  boats  in  the  Republic  belong  here. 

The  fisheries  employ  7,000  men  and  540  vessels,  with  a  yearly  product  of  above 
$4,000,000.  The  imports  approximate  $500,000,000  yearly,  and  the  exports  $400.000,000. 

The  internal  trade  of  New  York  exceeds  $2,000,000,000  a  year  ;  $1,650,000,000  worth 
of  freight  passes  over  the  railroads,  $150,000,000  over  the  canals,  and  $250,000,000  over 
the  sound  and  lakes. 

Canals  were  first  planned  here  in  1761,  by  Gen.  Philip  Schuyler,  who  devised  a  water- 
route  by  the  Mohawk  to  Oneida  Lake  and  Lake  Ontario.  It  was  discussed  before  the 
Legislature  by  Sir  Henry  Moore,  in  1768,  and  recommended  later  by  Gen.  Washington. 
In  1796,  1 6-ton  boats  passed  from  Schenectady  to  Oneida  Lake  and  Lake  Ontario,  by  the 
locks  and  canal  of  the  Western  Navigation  Company.  The  Erie  Canal  was  begun  at 
Rome  in  1817,  and  finished  in  1825,  when  the  water  of  Lake  Erie  entered  the  "Great 
Ditch,"  and  a  triumphal  flotilla  started  down  its  course  from  Buffalo  to  Albany,  bearing 
Gov.  De  Witt  Clinton,  Col.  W.  L.  Stone,  the  Van  Rensselaers,  and  others.  From  Albany 
the  boats  were  towed  to  New  York,  and  out  to  sea  beyond  Sandy  Hook,  where  barrels  of 
Lake-Erie  water  mingled  with  the  salt  tides,  in  the  presence  of  an  imposing  marine  pro- 
cession. This  vast  public  work  has  been  the  means  of  transporting  billions  of  dollars' 
worth  of  Western  products  to  the  sea,  and  has  had  a  powerful  influence  in  making  New 
York  the  great  shipping-port  of  America.  It  is  seven  feet  deep,  52^-  feet  wide  at  the  bot- 
tom, and  from  70  to  80  at  the  top.  The  length  is  364  miles.  The  canal  was  intended 
for  loo-ton  boats,  but  the  volume  of  business  quickly  overflowed  these  dimensions,  and 


THE  STATE  OF  NEW  YORK. 


NEW  YORK  :    UNION  SQUARE. 


606  KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

between  1832  and  1862  the  prism  and  locks  were 
enlarged  to  carry  24O-ton  vessels.  The  boats  cost 
from  $3,000  to  $5,000  each,  and  make  six  round 
trips  every  season,  each  carrying  more  than  a 
freight-train,  and  running  from  Buffalo  to  Albany, 
in  eleven  days  and  nights,  the  crews  being  divided 
into  two  watches.  During  the  season  150  boats 
reach  the  Hudson  daily.  There  are  75  steam 
canal-boats.  For  many  years  the  Erie  Canal  was 
traversed  by  regular  lines  of  packet-boats  for  pas- 
sengers, gliding  at  the  rate  of  six  miles  an  hour 
through  the  romantic  and  beautiful  scenery  of 
Central  New  York. 

The  total  cost  of  building  the  Erie  Canal  has  been  in  excess  of  $50,000,000,  but  it  has 
been  repaid  to  the  State  by  tolls,  together  with  the  cost  of  superintendence  and  repairs, 
and  a  clear  profit  of  above  $40,000,000.  In  1862  alone  the  tolls  on  the  New- York  canals 
exceeded  $5,000,000;  and  in  1868  the  value  of  merchandise  carried  was  $305,000,000. 
The  maximum  tonnage  [(6>  673, 370),  was  transported  in  1872.  In  1844  tne  canal-boats 
averaged  64  tons;  and  in  1880  they  reached  212  tons.  The  cost  of  freight  from  Albany 
to  Buffalo  was  25  cents  a  ton  a  mile,  in  1820.  In  1884,  it  had  fallen  to  27.7  mills.  The 
saving  on  the  cost  of  the  freight  moved  between  Albany  and  Buffalo  in  1850  alone  was 
$252,000,000.  In  1882,  the  people  of  New  York  voted,  486,105  to  163,151,  to  abolish  the 
tolls  on  their  canals,  and  make  them  free  forever.  The  United- States  Government  is  now 
contemplating  enlarging  the  Erie  and  Champlain  Canals  into  water-routes  for  ships. 

The  Champlain  Canal,  joining  Lake  Champlain  to  the  Hudson  at  Fort  Edward,  and 
by  slack- water  navigation  reaching  the  Erie  Canal  near  Cohoes,  was  built  in  1818-23,  and 
is  the  avenue  of  a  large  commerce.  The  Black-River  Canal,  built  in  1836-49,  runs  from 
Rome  to  Boonville,  on  Black  River,  and  has  106  locks  in  87^-  miles.  The  Chenango  Canal 
from  Utica  to  Binghamton,  97  miles :  the  Chenango  Extension,  beyond  Binghamton ;  the 
Crooked-Lake  Canal,  from  Penn  Yan  to  Dresden,  on  Seneca  Lake ;  the  Chemung  Canal, 
from  Elmira  to  Watkins,  on  Seneca  Lake  ;  the  Genesee- Valley  Canal,  from  Rochester  to 

the  Allegany  River ; 
and  the  Junction  and 
Oneida  -  Lake  canals  ; 
were  built  between  1830 
and  1840,  at  a  cost  ot 
over  $12,000,000,  and 
were  abandoned  be- 
tween 1874  and  1878. 
The  canals  cost  the 
State  for  their  construc- 
tion and  enlargement, 
$101,000,000  during 
the  half-century,  1825 
to  1875.  For  some 
years  past  the  canals 
have  accommodated 
annually  a  tonnage  of 
about  5,000,000.  In 
1884  this  was  divided, 
as  follows :  Erie,  3,- 
840 ,  oop  ;  Champlain, 


NEW    YORK 
CITY   HALL. 


CITY-HALL  PARK  AND  PRINTING-HOUSE  SQUARE. 
"WORLD."  "SUN."  "TRIBUNE."  "TIMES.' 


NEW  YORK  I  MANHATTAN  CLUB. 

There  are  109  locks,  with  a  total 


THE  STATE   OF  NEW  YORK. 

1,230,000;  Cayuga  and  Seneca,  196,000;  Oswego,  176,. 

077  ;  and  Black  River,  112,000.    Eastward-bound  floated 

4, 000,000  tons  ;  westward-bound,  1,600,000.   Of  this  vast 

freight,  1,600,000  tons  were  farm-products;  1,500,000, 

forest  -  products  ;   380,000,    merchandise;   and    200,000 

manufactured   goods.     In    1888  the  canal  business   fell 

away  500,000  tons,  owing  to  short  crops,  grain  corners, 

high  freight -rates,  and  rate-cutting  by  railroads. 

The  Delaware  &  Hudson  Canal  was  built  in  1825-8, 

at  a  cost  of  $2,000,000,  and  extends  from  Rondout,  on  the 

Hudson  to  Port  Jervis,  on  the  Delaware,  59  miles ;  thence 

up  the  Delaware  Valley  to  Lackawaxen,  24  miles ;  and 

thence  to  the  coal-mines  at  Honesdale  (Penn.),  26  miles. 

rise  and  fall  of  950  feet.     The  depth  is  6  feet ;  and  i2O-ton  boats  are  used.     This  canal  was 

built  by  a  private  company,  to  whom  it  still  belongs;  and  is  mainly  used  for  transporting  coal. 
The  Bridges  of  this  State  include  some  celebrated  engineering 
works.     The  East-River  Bridge  is  5,989  feet  long,  and  135  feet  above 
the  water,    erected  in    1870-83,   at  a  cost  of  $15,000,000.     This 
greatest    of    bridges    is    suspended    by  steel-wire 
cables  from  stone  piers  272  feet  above  high  tide, 
and  carries  a  promenade,  railway  tracks,  and  car- 
riage-ways, joining  Brooklyn  and  New  York.     The 
bridge  was  designed  by  John  A.  Roebling ;  and  its 
wonderful  suspended  superstructure,  of  fitted  steel, 
was  made  by  the  Edge  Moor  Bridge  Works,  of 
Wilmington  (Del. ).   The  Poughkeepsie  Bridge  is  if 
miles  long,  and  rests  on  four  pyramidal  steel  towers 
loo  feet  high  (20  feet  below  high  water),  and  these 
again  upon  timber  caissons  60  by  100  feet  and  100 
feet  high.     There  are  three  cantilevers,  with  connec- 
tion spans.    This  bridge  was  begun  in  1873,  to  afford 
unbroken  railway  communication  between  the  Penn- 
sylvania coal-fields  and  the  New-England  cities. 
The  International  Bridge  from  Black  Rock  (Buffalo)  to  Fort  Erie  (in  Canada)  was  built 

in  1870-73,  with  English  capital,  under  the  authority  of  Congress  and  Parliament  and  the 

State  and  Province  Governments.     The  cost  was  about  $1,500,000.     Crossing  the  Niagara 

River,  the  bridge  is  1,967^  feet  long,  with  two  draw-open-  4 

ings  of  1 60  feet  each.     It  then  traverses  Squaw  Island  for 

1,167  feet>  an(i  Black-Rock  Harbor  for  517  feet,  making  a 

total  length  of  3,651^  feet.      It  is  mainly  used  for  railway 

freight  traffic,  and  unites  the  New- York  Central,  West- 
Shore,  Erie,   Lackawanna,  and  Lehigh-Valley  lines  with 

the   Grand   Trunk    and    Michigan    Central  routes.      The 

wonderful  Cantilever  Bridge,  near  Niagara  Falls, 

is  one  of  the  most  interesting  of  American  me- 
chanical triumphs.     It  rests  on  lofty  steel  towers 

rising  from  the  shores  of  the  wild  rushing  river; 

and  sustains  a  double-track  railway,  used  by  the 

heaviest  trains.     Not  far  away  is  the  famous  Sus- 
pension   Bridge,    built  by    Roebling  in    1852-5. 

The  New  Suspension  Bridge  near  Niagara  Falls 

is  200  feet  above  the  rushing  river.    The  Arthur-  BUFFALO  :  THE  CITY  HALL. 


NEW  YORK  :  UNION  LEAGUE  CLUB. 


BUFFALO  :    ELEVATORS  AND  COMMERCE  OF  THE  LAKES. 


608  J?ING*S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED  STATES. 

Kill  Bridge  crosses  from  New  Jersey  to  Staten 
Island,  and  was  authorized  by  Congress,  the 
United- States  courts  overruling  the  injunction 
placed  on  it  by  New  Jersey.  Its  drawbridge 
is  the  largest  in  the  world  (500  feet  long). 
The  new  Washington  Bridge,  in  New- York 
City,  was  built  in  1886-90,  at  a  cost  of  above 
$3,000,000,  and  is  mainly  composed  of  two 
arches  of  Bessemer  steel,  each  of  508  feet, 
springing  from  high  granite  abutments,  and 
carrying  a  5o-foot  roadway  of  Trinidad  as- 
phalt, besides  broad  sidewalks.  The  Key- 
stone Bridge  Company,  of  Pittsburgh,  built 
the  Arthur-Kill  Bridge,  and  also  the  Madison-Avenue  Bridge,  at  New  York,  and  the  Iron  Pier, 
at  Coney  Island.  The  High  Bridge  is  a  noble  granite  structure,  1,450  feet  long  and  1 14  feet 
high,  carrying  the  Croton  Aqueduct  across  the  deep  Harlem  Valley,  on  14  massive  piers. 

The  new  dam  of  the  Croton  Water- Works,  at  Quaker  Bridge,  is  the  largest  in  the  world. 
It  was  constructed  in  1887-91,  at  a  cost  of  $3,000,000,  and  is  1,350  feet  long  and  277  feet 
high,  and  216  feet  wide  at  the  bottom.  40,000,000,000  gallons,  or  the  rainfall  of  300 
square  miles,  will  be  impounded  by  this  gigantic  rampart. 

Another  interesting  work  of  New- York  engineers  is  the  great  Croton  Aqueduct,  over 
40  miles  long,  finished  in  1842,  at  a  cost  of  nearly  $30,000,000,  Over  $60,000,000  has 
been  collected  in  water-rates.  The  tunnels,  now  being  cut  under  the  broad  Hudson  River, 
from  New- York  City  to  the  New- Jersey  shore  were  begun  in  1873.  The  Cataract  Con- 
struction Company  is  cutting  a  large  hydraulic  tunnel  through  the  rock,  from  a  mile  or 
two  above  Niagara  Falls  to  the  Niagara  River  below  the  falls,  to  utilize  the  illimitable 
water-power  here  running  to  waste.  The  Vanderbilts,  Belmonts,  Brown  Bros.  &  Co.,  and 
other  wealthy  New-Yorkers  are  stockholders ;  and  it  is  expected  that  this  development  will 
build  up  one  of  the  great  manufacturing  centres  of  the  world,  and  (by  the  easy  and  inex- 
pensive transmission  of  electrical  power  generated  here)  will  make  Buffalo  a  huge  metrop- 
olis of  industrial  enterprises  of  all  varieties. 

Railroads  in  this  State,  for  passenger-service,  were  inaugurated  by  the  route  from 
Albany  to  Schenectady,  which  began  operations  in  1831.  This  road  was  followed  by  that 


BUFFALO  AND  THE  NIAGARA  RIVER. 


THE  STATE   OF  NEW   YORK. 


609 


from  Schenectady  to  Utica,  in  1836 ;  Auburn  to  Syracuse,  1838 ;  Lockport  to  Niagara  Falls, 
1838;  Utica  to  Syracuse,  1839;  Auburn  to  Rochester,  1841 ;  Schenectady  to  Troy,  Attica 
to  Buffalo,  and  the  Tonawanda  Road,  1842.  These  lines  were  consolidated  into  the  New- 
York  Central  in  1853,  which  absorbed  also  the  Hudson-River  Railroad,  built  in  1851  ;  the 
New- York  &  Harlem,  chartered  in  1831 ;  and  (in  1885)  the  New- York,  West- Shore  & 
Buffalo.  The  New- York  railroads  have  4,  ooo  locomotives,  4, 500  passenger-cars,  and  1 50,  ooo 
freight-cars.  Their  earnings  have  exceeded  $125,000,000  in  a  year. 


ALBANY   AND  THE   STATE   CAPITOL. 

Finances. — The  State  has  a  very  small  debt,  mainly  for  canals  and  the  Niagara  Park, 
although  the  expenditures  have  been  liberal.  Between  1867  and  1887  the  taxable  property 
more  than  doubled,  rising  from  $1,664,107,725  to  $3,361,128,177,  while  the  State  tax  fell 
from  $12,647,219  to  $9,075,046.  During  these  20  years  the  taxable  property  paid  State 
taxes  aggregating  $224,000,000.  It  is  the  opinion  of  the  comptroller  that  over  $2,500,- 
000,000  more,  mostly  in  personal  property,  should  be  taxed.  In  that  case  the  valuation  of 
New  York  would  exceed  $6,000,000,000.  In  1812  the  Stale  contained  20  banks,  with  an 
authorized  capital  of  $19,000,000;  in  1836,  their  number  reached  85,  capitalized  at  $31,- 
000,000  ;  in  1856,  there  were  303,-  with  $96,000,000  in  capital.  The  present  number  is  41 1, 
with  a  capital  of  $104,000,000,  and  loans  and  deposits  each  amounting  to  nearly  $500,- 
000,000.  In  addition,  over  $600,000,000  are  deposited  in  the  savings-banks  of  the  State. 

New- York  City  is  the  financial  centre  and  arbiter  of  the  United  States,  and  controls 
the  monetary  markets  of  the  Republic  with  absolute  mastery.  The  massing  of  such  incal- 
culable sums  in  the  vicinity  of  Wall  Street,  the  congregating  of  the  brightest  of  American 
financiers  in  the  magnet-like  metropolis,  and  the  action  and  reaction  of  such  resources  and 
such  genius  upon  the  country  at  large,  has  made  New  York  the  financial  capital. 

The  Clearing- House  of  New- York  City  is  a  building  on  Pine  Street,  where  each  of  the 
88  associated  banks  exchange  daily  the  checks  and  bills  received  from  all  the  other  banks 
for  the  checks  and  bills  of  its  own  held  by  the  other  banks.  If  the  balance  is  against  it, 
the  debit  bank  sends  cash  to  the  Clearing-House  to  balance,  and  this  gold  or  legal  tender  is 
given  out  to  the  credit  banks.  The  transactions  of  this  colossal  exchange  have  run  up  close 
to  $300,000,000  in  a  day.  The  volume  of  operations  far  transcends  that  of  all  the  rest  of 
the  Union,  and  has 
exceeded  $50,000,- 
000,000  in  a  single 
year,  or  over  fifty 
times  the  amount  of 
the  National  debt. 

The  Stock  Ex- 
change occupies  a 
marble  building  on 
Wall  Street.  It  has 
I,IOO  members,  who  NEWBURGH  AND  THE  HUDSON  RIVER. 


6io 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE  UNITED   STATES. 


NEW  YORK  :  THE  COTTON  EXCHANGE. 


assemble  in  the  main  hall  daily  for  the  purchase  and  sale  of 
securities,  stocks  and  bonds,  millions  of  dollars'  worth  of  which 
change  hands  daily.  From  the  visitors' gallery,  the  "bulls" 
and  "bears"  may  be  seen  and  heard  in  continual  conflict,  ad- 
vancing or  depressing  the  prices  of  stocks,  amid  prodigious 
noise  and  excitement. 

The  Consolidated  Stock  and  Petroleum  Exchange  occupies 
a  handsome  modern  building  extending  from  Broadway  to  New 
Street.  It  began  operations  in  1875,  as  t*16  New- York  Mining- 
Stock  Exchange.  Here  are  sold  on  an  average  more  than  75,000 
shares  of  stock  daily.  There  are  2,400  members.  The  trans- 
actions in  railroad  bonds  are  heavy,  and  the  sales  of  petroleum 
reach  2,500,000,000  barrels  a  year.  The  Produce  Exchange 
has  a  magnificent  building  on  Bowling  Green,  with  a  clock- 
tower  200  feet  high.  The  Cotton  Exchange  has  a  million-dol- 
lar building  on  Hanover  Square. 

The  U.-S.  Sub-Treasury,  a  handsome  white  granite  building,  in  the  style  of  an  ancient 
Greek  temple,  with  ponderous  Doric  porticoes,  stands  amid  the  great  banking  houses  on 
Wall  Street.  The  front  is  adorned  with  Ward's  noble  statue  of  Washington  taking  the 
oath  of  office  as  President,  an  event  which  occurred  on  this  exact  site. 

The  U.-S.  Assay  Office,  adjoining  the  Sub- 
Treasury,  occupies  the  building  constructed  in 
1823  for  the  Branch  Bank  of  the  United  States, 
and  now  the  oldest  edifice  on  Wall  Street.  From 
$20,000,000  to  $100,000,000  in  crude  bullion  are 
received  here  every  year,  to  be  assayed,  refined, 
separated  and  cast  into  bars,  which  are  piled  up 
in  the  vaults  in  glittering  heaps  of  yellow  gold 
and  white  silver. 

Architecturally  and  in  other  respects  the  Mills 
Building  is  a  notable  structure.  D.  O.  Mills  went 
to  California  in  '49,  and  afterwards  became  well 
known  in  the  banking  business  in  Sacramento,  and  in  the  public  life  of  the  State  and  the 
Nation.  He  has  been  known  in  Wall  Street  for  almost  40  years,  and  it  has  been  variously 
estimated  that  he  is  worth  from  $10,000,000  to  $20,000,000.  The  Mills  Building  was 
erected  in  1 88 1— 2.  It  is  ten  stories  in  height,  and  contains  nearly  five  acres  of  floor  surface, 
divided  into  300  offices.  The  dimensions  of  the  lot  upon  which  it  stands  are  as  follows  : 
on  Wall  Street,  28  feet  II  inches  ;  on  Broad  Street,  175  feet ; 
Exchange  Place,  150  feet.  The  arrangement  of  the  open 
court  on  Broad  Street  gives  direct  light  and  ventilation  to  all 
the  offices,  leaving  no  dark  corners,  such  as  are  found  in 
other  mammoth  buildings.  The  basement  and  first  and  sec- 
ond stories  are  of  large  dimensions,  designed  for  the  accom- 
modation of  railroad  companies  and  bankers  ;  and  are  pro-  j 
vided  with  massive  burglar-proof  safes.  On  the  floors  j 
above,  the  offices  are  of  sizes  appropriate  for  lawyers,  real-  Jjx 
estate  agents  and  the  like.  The  fagades  are  of  Belle- 
ville stone  and  Philadelphia  brick,  and  the  enriched 
panels  are  either  carved  in  this  stone  or  moulded  in 
red  terra-cotta.  The  absence  of  pillars  to  support  the 
floors  is  a  peculiarity  of  the  structure,  adding  much 
to  the  convenience  and  beauty  of  apartments  in  it.  NEW  YORK  :  THE  MILLS  BUILDING. 


NEW  YORK  :  THE  PRODUCE  EXCHANGE. 


THE  STATE   OF  NEW   YORK. 


611 


The  Chemical  Bank  was  founded  in  New  York  more  than  60  years  P 
ago,  its  originators  having  been  connected  with  that  branch  of  business 
which  gives  it  its  name.  In  many  respects  this  is  one  of  the  most  remark- 
able financial  institutions  in  the  world,  and  the  largest  and  most  famous 
bank  in  America.  Amid  the  great  panics  which  have  from  time  to  time 
swept  over  the  country,  the  Chemical  Bank  has  stood  firm,  without  em- 
barrassment or  suspension.  For  this  reason,  on  the  resumption  of  pros- 
perity, great  numbers  of  accounts  were  transferred  to  this  bank,  resulting 
in  an  increasing  volume  of  profits.  The  astonishing  appreciation  of  its 
conduct  and  policy  is  seen  in  the  fact  that  the  Chemical  stock  based  on  a 
par  value  of  $100  (though  actually  $25)  sells  for  $4,600  a  share.  The 
directorate  includes  some  of  the  foremost  men  in  New- York  City.  The 
Chemical  National  Bank  has  a  capital  of  $300,000,  with  a  surplus  fund  of 
$6,000,000,  undivided  profits  of  nearly  $300,000,  and  resoui'ces  amount- 
ing to  $35,000,000,  including  over  $7,000,000  in  specie. 

The  buildings  are  modest  and  unobtrusive,  although  commodious 
structures,  extending  from  Broadway  around  to  Chambers  Street,  and  fully 
indicate  the  silent  yet  powerful  financial  institution  whose  ramifications 
extend  throughout  the  world. 

The  widely-known  First  National  Bank  of  New  York  was  organized 
in  July,  1863,  and  immediately  took  an  active  part  in  placing  the  United-States  Government 
loans.  In  all  subsequent  Government  loans  it  has  been  prominently  identified,  and  in  1879, 
during  the  funding  operation  of  that  year  the  sales  of  United-States  bonds  aggregated  nearly 
$500,000,000,  and  its  deposits,  including  those  of  the  United-States  Treasurer,  amounted 
to  about  $200,000,000.  Its  special  line  of  effort  from  the  first,  however,  has  been  devoted 
to  acting  as  reserve  agent  for  and  receiving  deposits  of  out-of-town  banks,  which  have 
reached  a  sum  larger  than  that  of  any  other  institution.  The  bank  pays  100  per  cent,  per 


NEW  YORK : 
CHEMICAL  NAT.    BANK. 


annum  in  regular  quarterly  divi- 
greater  surplus  and  undivided 
other  bank  in  the  United  States, 
the  United  Bank  Building,  at 
Broadway,  said  to  be  the  most 
The  National  Bank  of  the 
of  nearly  40  years.  It  purchased 
Broadway,  the  most  valuable 
February,  1851,  for  $110,000. 
half  in  ' '  The  United  Bank  Build- 
ground  and  two  adjoining  lots, 
$637,000,  and  the  market  value 
Civil  War,  this  was  the  leading 
and  in  1865  it  changed  to  a 
and  character  are  well  estab- 
the  United  States.  The  recent 


dends,  and  has  accumulated  a 
profits  ($6,702,843),  than  any 
It  is  an  undivided  half  owner  of 
the  corner  of  Wall  Street  and 
valuable  site  in  this  country. 
Republic  has  had  an  existence 
the  corner  of  Wall  Street  and 
ground  in  North  America,  in 
It  now  owns  an  undivided  one 
ing,"  erected  in  1880,  on  that 
the  book  value  of  which  is 
over  $1,000,000.  Prior  to  the 
State  bank  in  Southern  business, 
National  bank.  Its  standing 
lished,  and  it  is  a  depository  of 
increase  in  its  volume  of  busi- 


NEW  YORK  I     UNITED    BANK    BLG. 

FIRST  NATIONAL  BANK. 
NATIONAL    BANK  OF  THE   REPUBLIC. 

ness  is  unparalleled.  On  May  I,  1884,  John  Jay  Knox,  after  22  years  of  government  service, 
and  twelve  years  as  Comptroller  of  the  Currency,  accepted  the  presidency.  The  net  deposits 
were  then  $4,378,671 ;  the  discounts,  $3,359,523  ;  the  surplus  and  profits,  $668,335.  Dur' 
ing  the  last  six  years,  there  has  been  an  increase  of  $8,577,100  in  deposits,  $5,654,125  in 
loans,  and  $256,978  in  surplus  and  profits,  after  the  payment  of  the  eight  per  cent,  regular 
dividends.  The  stock  which  sold  for  112  now  readily  commands  190  in  the  market.  The 
directory  is  composed  of  a  careful  body  of  experienced  men,  of  large  means  and  influence ; 
and  the  cashier,  E.  H.  Pullen,  has  been  30  years  in  the  bank.  Its  capital  and  aggregate 
profits  are  nearly  $2,500,000;  its  deposits  $15,600,000,  and  its  resources  $18,000,000. 


612 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED  STATES. 


NEW  YORK  t 
NATIONAL  PARK  BANK. 


The  National  Park  Bank  of  New  York  is  famous  for  its  enor- 
mous number  of  accounts  with  banks  and  bankers  throughout  the 
United  States  (and  especially  in  the  South),  in  which  regard  it 
probably  stands  at  the  head.  The  business  thus  entailed  requires 
the  attention  of  more  than  100  clerks.  The  Park  Bank  was  organ- 
ized in  1856,  and  became  a  National  bank  in  1865.  Three  years 
later,  it  moved  into  the  magnificent  marble  edifice  which  it  had 
built  for  itself,  on  the  site  of  Barnum's  Museum,  and  in  the  heart 
of  the  busiest  part  of  New  York.  The  banking-rooms  are  not  ex- 
celled by  any  in  the  city ;  and  below  them  are  invincible  safe-de- 
posit vaults,  provided  with  every  convenience  for  the  use  of  custom- 
ers. The  capital-stock  of  the  National  Park  Bank  is  $2,000,000, 
with  a  surplus  of  $2,400,000.  The  average  deposits  amount  to 
$27,000,000.  The  dividends  amount  to  ten  per  cent,  yearly  ;  and 
the  stock  sells  for  $336  a  share.  Ebenezer  K.  Wright  is  President ; 
Jas.  H.  Parker,  Vice-President ;  and  George  S.  Hickok,  Cashier. 
The  Bank  of  America  rose  on  the  ruins  of  the  old  Bank  of  the 
United  States,  several  of  whose  directors  became  its  active  pro- 
moters, intending  to  attract  to  it  much  of  the  capital  and  business 
of  the  dying  corporation,  and  thus  make  it  what  its  name  implies. 
In  1812  the  Bank  of  America  received  a  charter,  providing  for  a 
capital  stock  of  $6,000,000,  and  requiring  it  to  pay  the  State 
$600,000  and  to  loan  it  $2,000,000.  Oliver  Wolcott,  ex-sec- 
retary of  the  United-States  Treasury,  was  the  first  president, 
and  the  directorate  included  18  of  the  foremost  citizens  of 
New  York.  The  war  of  1812,  the  multiplication  of  banks, 
and  the  inflation  and  depreciation  of  the  currency  prevented 
the  full  success  of  the  enterprise,  and  its  capital  was  reduced 
to  $2,000,000.  The  bank  was  reorganized  under  the  General 
Banking  Act  of  1838,  and  for  many  years  served  as  the  local 
depository  of  the  National  funds.  From  1857  until  the  old 
building  was  removed  it  was  the  depository  for  gold  coin  for 
the  associated  banks,  issuing  certificates  payable  in  coin,  and 
having  at  times  upwards  of  $47,000,000  in  gold  in  its  charge. 

The  home  of  the  Bank  of  America  was  a  quaint  and  massive  ~|A    ^> 

structure  in  Egyptian  architecture,  dating  from  the  year  1835.          '~=^^^^~ &~-       ^jr 
On  the  same  site  now  stands  the  lofty  and  magnificent  new        NEW  YORK  :  BANK  OF  AMERICA. 

I ; : 1     granite  building,  erected  in  1888-9  for  the  home  of  this  great 

financial  corporation.     The  capital  of  the  bank  is  $3,000,000, 
with  a  surplus  and  undivided  profits  of  $2,000,000. 

The  Fourth  National  Bank  of  the  City  of  New  York  was 
organized  in  January,  1864,  being  the  fourth  New- York  bank 
organized  under  the  provisions  of  the  National  Bank  Act  of 
1863.  The  movement  to  create  the  bank  was  initiated  by 
many  leading  citizens  of  New  York,  and  its  first  president  was 
the  Hon.  George  Opdyke,  who  had  just  completed  his  term 
of  office  as  Mayor  of  the  city.  The  bank  in  1888  secured  as 
president  J.  Edward  Simmons,  who  having  held  various  posi- 
tions of  trust  and  responsibility  was  fitted  by  experience  as  well 
as  by  business  capacity  to  preside  over  the  fortunes  of  such 
an  institution.  The  Vice-President  is  James  G.  Cannon,  and 
the  Cashier  is  Charles  H.  Patterson.  The  capital-stock  is 


NEW   YORK  I 
HANOVER  NATIONAL  BANK. 


THE  STATE   OF  NEW    YORK. 

$3,200,000,  and  the  surplus  and  undivided  profits  amount  to 
$1,700,000.  The  deposits  average  $20,000,000,  and  the  loans 
and  discounts  $  1 8,  ooo,  ooo.  The  business  of  the  Fourth  National 
Bank  extends  to  every  section  of  the  country,  and  it  has  corre- 
spondents at  all  principal  points. 

The  Hanover  National  Bank,  of  New  York,  received  its 
charter  in  1851,  and  began  business  in  Hanover  Square,  whence 
it  moved  to  33  Nassau  Street,  and  in  1877  to  its  present  home  on 
Nassau  and  Pine  Streets.  By  judicious  activity  in  conservative 
channels  it  has  been  able  to  pay  over  $2,000,000  in  dividends, 
besides  accumulating  a  surplus  of  over  $  1 , 500,  ooo.  These  repre- 
sent an  aggregate  yield  of  more  than  ten  per  cent,  on  the  stock. 
The  market  value  of  the  stock  is  $350  per  share  of  $  100  par  value. 
The  Hanover  is  proverbially  rich  in  cash  resources,  and  it  is  not 
unusual  to  see  it  with  40  per  cent,  of  its  deposits  on  hand  in 
money.  The  present  deposit  amounts  to  nearly  $18,000,000, 
and  is  continually  growing.  The  Hanover  has  a  large  corre- 
spondence with  outside  banks,  and  a  valuable  and  excellently  conducted  foreign-exchange 

business ;  and  serves  as  a  United- States  depositary,  having 
had  a  creditable  share  in  upholding  and  advancing  the 
credit  of  the  Republic. 

One  of  the  foremost  of  the  financial  institutions  of  the 
State  outside  of  New- York  City  is  the  Bank  of  Buffalo, 
with  a  capital  of  $300,000,  and  a  surplus  of  the  same 
amount.  Sharing  in  and  advancing  the  development  of 
Buffalo,  as  it  has  grown  from  the  place  of  a  small  lake- 
port  to  that  of  one  of  the  twelve  great  cities  of  the  United 
States,  this  bank  has  achieved  an  unprecedented  prosperity, 
without  departing  from  the  safe  lines  of  commercial 
policy,  and  holds  deposits  of  above  $4,000,000.  Under 
the  direction  of  President  S.  S.  Jewett  and  Cashier  Wm. 
C.  Cornwell,  and  a  strong  board  of  directors,  the  bank  has 
carried  out  many  advanced  ideas  in  financiering,  while  re- 
taining the  conservative  principle  that  a  substantial  per- 
centage of  its  deposits  should  be  carried  in  cash  or  quick  assets. 
Although  founded  as  recently  as  1873,  this  institution  has  revolution- 
ized the  banking  business  in  Buffalo,  and  its  counting-room  is  visited 
daily  by  the  leading  business  men  of  the  city. 

The  Trust  Companies  are  of  paramount  interest  in  New- York 
financial  circles.  They  act  as  legal  depositories  for  moneys  paid  into 
court,  and  for  the  funds  of  executors  and  administrators,  as  the 
trustees  of  estates,  and  in  various  other  capacities.  The  greatest  of 
these  institutions  in  all  this  country  is  the  United-States  Trust  Com- 
pany, of  New  York,  a  strong  and  conservative  corporation  of  many 
years'  standing,  trustee  and  guardian  of  many  important  estates  and 
depository  of  trust  funds.  Its  capital  ($2,000,000),  together  with  its 
surplus  ($7,500,000),  reaches  the  colossal  sum  of  $9,500,000;  its  de- 
posits are  about  $36,500,000,  and  its  gross  assets  $47,000,000.  In 
the  concentration  of  National  wealth  at  New  York,  there  are  many 
great  estates  and  corporations  with  investible  funds,  which  find  their 
best  disposition  in  the  control  of  such  an  institution  as  this,  whose 
officers  are  always  vigilant  for  the  security  of  the  great  trusts  com- 


BUFFALO  I    BANK  OF  BUFFALO. 


NEW    YORK  ! 
UNITED-STATES  TRUST  CO. 


NEW    YORK  : 
CENTRAL  TRUST  CO. 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE    UNITED   STATES. 

mitted  to  their  charge.  The  building  of  the  United- States  Trust 
Company  on  Wall  Street  is  a  noble  specimen  of  architecture,  erected 
at  a  cost  of  over  $1,000,000.  The  banking  rooms  have  an  air  of 
simple  grandeur,  rarely  seen  in  a  place  of  business. 

The  Central  Trust  Company  of  New  York  is  under  the  presidency 
of  Frederick  P.  Olcott.  Its  advance  among  the  famous  fiduciary  in- 
terests of  the  metropolis  shows  an  unusual  reward  for  foresight  and 
enterprise,  and  has  a  record  unequalled  in  .its  way  on  this  continent. 
The  capital  stock  is  $1,000,000,  and  on  this  amount,  between  January, 
1890,  and  March,  1891,  the  company  declared  bi-monthly  dividends  of 
five  per  cent.,  besides  adding  $420,000  to  surplus  account.  Thus  the 
business  of  14  months  shows  a  profit  nearly  equal  to  the  invested  capi- 
tal. The  surplus  in  1884  was  $1,500,000,  and  in  the  seven  years  in- 
tervening over  $3,000,000  more  has  been  added  to  this  surplus, 
although  in  the  meantime  the  company  has  paid  dividends  averaging 
21^  per  cent,  a  year.  The  Central  Trust  Company  is  a  regular  modern 
trust  company.  It  allows  interest  on  deposits ;  is  a  legal  depository  for 
money  paid  into  court ;  is  authorized  to  act 

as  executor,  administrator,  guardian,  or  in  any  other  position  of 
trust ;  also  as  registrar  or  transfer  agent  of  stocks  and  bonds,  and 
as  trustee  for  railroad  and  other  mortgages.  Its  building  is  one  of 
the  notable  structures  on  Wall  Street.  Its  capital  and  surplus  is 
about  $5,500,000,  and  its  gross  assets  about  $32,000,000. 

The  Equitable  Mortgage  Company  under  the  presidency  of 
Charles  N.  Fowler  has  developed  to  a  financial  institution  of  con- 
siderable magnitude.  It  was  founded  under  the  laws  of  Missouri, 
and  has  its  headquarters  in  the  Evening-Post  Building,  New  York, 
with  offices  in  Philadelphia,  Boston,  London  and  Berlin.  The 
capital  is  now  $4,000,000.  The  surplus  and  undivided  profits 
amount  to  $1,800,000,  and  the  gross  assets  are  over  $14,000,000. 
The  company  issues  debentures,  and  deals  in  Government,  State, 
county,  city,  school,  water  and  railroad  bonds.  A  prominent  and 
interesting  field  of  effort  is  in  loans  on  farm-mortgages  in  the 
West  and  South,  made  through  the  local 
banks  as  loaning  agents,  thus  securing  agents 

familiar  with  the  credit  and  character  of  the  borrowers.  The  company 
also  guards  its  interests  by  employing  skillful  attorneys  and  salaried 
expert  valuers  in  the  regions  covered  by  its  systems.  In  1890  a  com- 
mittee of  eight  European  and  seven  Eastern  capitalists  traveled  over 
the  United  States  to  examine  the  Equitable's  securities  and  systems, 
and  pronounced  this  verdict :  "The  mortgage  system  of  the  Equitable 
Company  is  skillfully  devised  and  well  adapted  to  secure  a  safe  and 
prosperous  business." 

Merchants  and  manufacturers  have  the  opportunity  of  extending 
their  trade  to  a  degree  limited  only  by  their  power  to  produce  and  their 
ability  to  determine  the  needs  of  consumers.  Commerce  —  always  con- 
servative —  follows  the  lines  of  knowledge,  and  advances  with  the  definite 
determination  of  facts.  The  work  of  The  Bradstreet  Company  is  recog- 
nized as  one  of  the  most  potential  in  gathering,  formulating  and  dis- 
seminating the  information  necessary  for  the  broadest  development  and 
the  widest  extension  of  all  commercial  or  mercantile  pursuits,  for  it  has 
THE  BRADSTREET  co.  always  kept  pace  with,  and  even  anticipated,  the  actual  advancement, 


NEW  YORK : 
EQUITABLE  MORTGAGE  CO. 


THE  STATE   OF  NEW   YORK.  615 

by  its  investigation  of  the  material  progress  and  prospects  of  the  world's  products,  as  also 
its  careful  consideration  of  the  specific  details  of  the  responsibility  and  character  so  necessary 
to  the  proper  estimate  of  individual  credit.  The  massive  quarto  volumes  of  more  than 
2,200  pages  contain  the  estimated  worth  and  recognized  credit,  classified  business,  and 
address  of  more  than  a  million  of  subjects,  besides  much  other  valuable  information.  Its 
offices  nearly  compass  the  earth.  That  its  mighty  mission  has  been  fulfilled  with  fidelity  as 
to  facts,  conservatism  as  to  judgment,  conscientiousness  as  to  details,  is  proven  by  a  record 
which  challenges  the  attention  and  commands  the  respect  of  every  person  who  has  sought 
information  through  its  channels  or  availed  himself  of  its  facilities  for  the  investigation 
of  personal  credits.  The  Bradstreet  Company  is  the  oldest  and  financially  the  strongest 
organization  of  its  kind  ;  working  in  the  one  interest  and  under  one  management,  with 
wider  ramifications,  with  greater  investment  of  capital,  and  expending  more  money  every 
year  for  the  collection  and  dissemination  of  information  than  any  similar  institution  in  the 
world.  It  has  long  been  recognized  and  practically  endorsed  by  the  highest  local  courts  in 
the  United  States,  and  a  constantly  increasing  business  justifies  the  statement  that  the  aid 
and  protection  afforded  by  this  institution  are  becoming  better  understood,  and  the  value  of 
the  information  more  fully  appreciated.  This  company  issues,  under  the  name  of  Brad- 
streefs,  the  foremost  commercial  and  financial  newspaper  of  this  continent;  a  sixteen- 
page  weekly,  giving  the  condition  of  the  crops,  the  markets,  and  the  news  of  commerce, 
finance  and  manu-  |p_:_^;_._=_w  = =---—— ---~^=-=^  -^^s  facturesi  as  well  as 

peers  and  no  superi-  NEW  YORK  :  THE  CITY  HALL-  ors.  The  Bradstreet 

Company  has  been  an  important  factor  in  the  mercantile  world  for  more  than  forty  years, 
but  its  preeminent  career  began  in  1876,  with  its  present  administration,  under  the  presi- 
dency of  Charles  F.  Clark. 

Life-Insurance.  —  No  better  evidence  of  the  Christian  civilization  of  the  American 
people  can  be  found  than  in  the  record  of  their  life-insurance  companies.  Every  State, 
county,  city,  yes,  even  hamlets,  have  their  poor-houses,  their  "homes,"  and  their  charitable 
institutions  to  take  care  of  those  who  have  been  improvident  or  unfortunate.  But  the  noble 
spirit  which  urges  every  man  to  provide  as  far  as  he  can  against  all  emergencies  for  his  own 
family,  and  for  those  who  depend  on  him,  is  shown  by  the  fact  that  this  country  has  a  long 
list  of  life-insurance  organizations,  which  are  doing  on  business  principles  the  greatest 
amount  of  philanthropic  service.  There  are  various  organizations  bearing  the  name  of  life- 
insurance  companies,  but  only  those  carrying  out  the  approved  system  of  sound  life-insur- 
ance are  worthy  of  unlimited  commendation.  There  are  about  a  dozen  of  these  in  New 
York,  and  three  of  them,  the  Mutual  Life,  the  Equitable  Life,  and  the  New- York  Life, 
after  paying  out  fabulous  sums  to  widows  and  orphans  and  to  holders  of  matured  policies, 
have  accumulated  a  grand  total  of  $382,000,000,  as  security  for  the  policies  now  in  force  upon 
the  lives  of  men  who  are  thus  mindful  of  the  care  of  their  families. 

Over  $8,600,000,000  in  life-insurance  (covering  4,000,000  policies)  is  in  force  in  the 
United  States,  the  yearly  premiums  reaching  about  $165,000,000,  and  the  yearly  payments  to 
policy-holders  $90,000,000.  These  receipts  and  payments  are  much  greater  than  those  of  all 


6i6 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 


the  companies  in  all  other  parts  of  the  world  united.  The  regular  life-insurance  companies 
(excluding  assessment  societies)  have  already  paid  to  their  policy-holders  and  their  families 
the  colossal  sum  of  $  1 , 500,  ooo,  ooo,  and  yet  hold  in  their  coffers  securities  amounting  to  a  sum 
of  $25,000,000  in  excess  of  the  combined  banking  capital  of  the  United  States. 

Chauncey  M.  Depew  recently  said  that  the  preeminence  of  the  United  States  among  the 
nations  of  the  world  "is  most  conspicuous  in  the  number,  solvency  and  assets  of  the  institu- 
tions where  the  mites  of  the  poor  constitute  a  fund  for  a  rainy  day  and  for  the  inevitable 
accidents  of  life,  and  of  those  where  the  accumulations  of  the  prosperous  and  rich  provide 
against  the  losses  of  fortune  and  death."  The  silver-tongued  orator  also  added:  "If  a 
man  knows,  while  earning  enough  for  the  support  of  his  family,  that  by  some  process 
that  family  will  be  sustained  and  supported  when  he  is  dead,  by  a  policy  given  by  a  good 
company  upon  a  moderate  premium,  for  a  sum  beyond  anything  which  he  could  hope  to 
accumulate  under  ordinary  conditions,  that  man  will  cease  to  worry,  and  will  live  forever. " 
Among  the  enormous  corporations  raised  up  to  accomplish  this  end,  and  also  to  provide 
inalienable  life-annuities,  invested  by  the  wisest  financiers,  and  safeguarded  by  govern- 
mental supervision,  the  three  great  metropolitan  companies,  the  New- York  Life,  the 
Equitable,  and  the  Mutual  Life,  stand  preeminent,  with  unblemished  records  and  almost 
unlimited  resources,  held  and  disbursed  in  accordance  with  public  law  and  individual  con- 


tracts, for  the  pro- 

The  Mutual 

having  the  largest 

being  the  greatest 


tection  and  enrichment  of  their  members. 

Life-Insurance  Co.,  of  New  York,  enjoys  the  noble  distinction  of 
assets  of  any  life-insurance  company  in  the  world,  and  also  of 
financial  institution,  even  much  larger  than  the  Bank  of  England. 
Its  assets  amount  to  about  $150,000,000,  the  yearly  in- 
come being  $35,000,000,  and  the  yearly  disbursements 
exceeding  $24,000,000.     There  are  206,055  policies  in 
force,  insuring  $638,226,865.     The  new  business  secured 
in  a  single  year  has  exceeded  $160,000,000.    This  corpor- 
ation was  among  the  first  to  do  business  as  a  modern  life- 
insurance  company,  having  been  founded  in  1843  '•>  an^  ^ts 
growth  has  been  steady,  secure  and  beneficent  ever  since. 
The  executive  offices  of  the  Mutual  Life  occupy  one  of  the 
most  admirable  and  exquisite  structures  in  the  world,  at 
NEW  YORK":  MUTUAL  LIFE-*  "R^NCE  co  '    Nassau,  Cedar  and  Liberty  Streets,  on  the  site  of  the  old 
NEW-YORK  GENERAL  AGENCY.  Post  Office.     The  New-York  general  agency  uses  another 

immense  structure,  also  the  property  of  the  company,  at  Broadway  and  Liberty  Street. 
The  Mutual  Life  is  more  than  continental  in  its  workings,  and  has  its  well-appointed  agencies 
in  all  parts  of  the  United  States,  Canada,  Mexico,  Great  Britain  and  Continental  Europe ; 
and  issues  all  the  approved  forms  of  life,  endow- 
ment, annuity,  and  other  policies.  The  Mutual  Life 
for  about  40  years  was  under  the  presidency  of  the 
late  Frederick  S.  Winston,  and  at  his  death,  Richard 
A.  McCurdy,  the  former  Vice-President,  was  chosen 
President,  and  under  his  administration  the  Mutual 
Life  has  become  greater  than  ever  before.  This  is 
one  of  those  gigantic  institutions  about  which  it  is  im- 
possible even  to  suggest  its  enormous  operations,  or  to 
indicate  its  incalculable  value  to  the  whole  people. 
Although  it  is  officered  by  those  selected  by  its 
policy-holders,  it  is  nevertheless  a  semi-public  institu- 
tion, with  its  field  of  operations  all  over  the  civilized 
world.  It  is  an  enormous  trusteeship  for  the  welfare  of  the  individuals  and  their  families, 
who  in  time  of  strength  and  prosperity  provide  for  old  age  and  adversity. 


NEW  YORK  :     MUTUAL    LIFE-INSURANCE   CO., 
EXECUTIVE  OFFICES. 


THE  STATE   OF  NEW   YORK. 


617 


The  Equitable  Life  Assurance  Society  of  the  United  States  stands  in  the  front  of  all  life- 
insurance  corporations  of  the  world.  It  is  the  largest  life-insurance  company  in  the  world 
in  the  amount  of  its  annual  business  and  of  its  insurance  in  force,  the  latter  being  over 
$700,000,000,  covering  nearly  200,000  policies.  Its  gross  assets  exceed  $115,000,000. 
The  new  business  in  1890  was  over  $200,000,000,  being  larger  than  that  of  any  other  com- 
pany in  the  world.  The  Equitable  also  holds  the  largest  surplus.  The  policies  offered 
by  the  Equitable  include  a  variety  of  forms,  tontines,  indemnity  bonds,  annuities  and  others. 
The  society  was  organized  in  1859.  Henry  B.  Hyde  is  the  President,  and  James  W.  Alex- 
ander is  the  Vice-President.  It  has  paid  to  policy-holders  the  enormous  sum  of  over 
$140,000,000,  one  half  of  which  was  to  widows  and  orphans.  The  Equitable  Society  has 
done  much  to  liberalize  the  policy  contract,  and  to  make  insurance  popular.  By  the  inven- 
tion of  the  tontine  system,  it  has  revolutionized  the  practice  of  life-insurance.  Under  this 
system,  those  policy-holders  who  survive  a  certain  period  receive  large  cash  returns,  while 
the  families  of  those  who  die  early  receive  the  insurance  money  as  soon  as  satisfactory 
evidence  of  the  death  of  the  policy-holder  is  submitted.  Many  of  these  tontine  policies 

maturing  in  1891  show,  in  addition  to  the  20 
years  of  protection  furnished,  a  return  of  all 
premiums  paid,  with  a  fair  rate  of  interest 
added.  The  Equitable  Building,  erected  by 
the  Society  in  1872,  has  been  recently  enlarged 
and  contains  the  main  offices.  It  is  one  of  the 
largest  and  most  substantial  commercial  build- 
ings in  the  world.  It  fills  the  block  on  Broad- 
way, from  Cedar  Street  to  Pine  Street,  con- 
taining rented  offices,  occupied  by  over  1,500 
people.  The  Broadway  entrance  leads  into  the 
finest  rotunda  in  America,  on  whose  pavements 

NEW  YORK  :     EQUITABLE    LIFE-ASSURANCE  SOCIETY.  ,  ,  ,  .  ...  x   .       , 

stand  marble  columns  with  onyx  capitals,  up- 
holding an  entablature  of  red  granite  and  an  arched  roof  of  stained  glass.  The  view 
from  the  roof  of  the  building  includes  the  entire  city  and  suburbs.  The  offices  of  the 
Society  (second  floor)  are  perhaps  the  costliest  and  grandest  of  any  used  for  business  pur- 
poses in  this  or  any  other  country.  This  was  the  first  office-building  to  introduce  passenger- 
elevators,  and  to  the  managers  of  the  Equitable  the  owners  of  buildings  owe  a  debt  of  grati- 
tude for  adopting  a  practical  means  of  making  the  upper  floors  desirable  at  high  rentals. 
The  Equitable  Building  is  one  of  the  attractions  of  New- York  City  to  which  all  strangers 
are  taken,  to  admire  its  architectural  grandeur  and  the  magnificent  view  from  the  roof. 

The  New- York  Life-Insurance  Company,  of  which  William 
H.  Beers  is  President,  ranks  on  an  equal  footing  with  the  fore- 
most life-insurance  corporations  of  the  world,  and  is  one  of  the 
dozen  greatest  financial  and  fiduciary  institutions.  It  has  over 
173,000  policies  in  force,  insuring  over  $569,000,000.  The 
company  began  business  in  1845  '•>  an(^  smce  that  date  ^as  Pa^ 
over  $56,000,000  in  death  claims,  and  over  $86,000,000  in  en- 
dowments, annuities,  dividends  and  surrender  values.  The  in- 
terest and  rents  received  have  exceeded  the  entire  losses  by 
death,  a  result  which  shows  an  adequate  accumulation  of  assets, 
handled  with  masterly  financial  skill  and  a  careful  selection  of 
risks.  The  New- York  Life  is  purely  mutual  in  its  operations, 
and  the  profits  are  divided  among  its  policy-holders  exclusively. 
The  assets  amount  to  over  $115,000,000.  This  vigorous  and 

progressive  company  originated  non-forfeiture  and  mortuary  divi-        NEW  YORK  .    NEW.YORK  LIFE- 
dend  policies,  and  issues  a  greater  variety  of  contracts  than  any       INSURANCE  co.,  HOME  OFFICE. 


6i8 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 


NEW  YORK  I 

LIVERPOOL   AND    LONDON    AND 
GLOBE    INSURANCE    CO. 


other  company.  It  was  for  many  years  the  only  company  to  issue  policies  without  a  sui- 
cide clause.  Its  endowment  business  is  larger  than  that  of  any  other  company,  and  its  an- 
nuity business  is  larger  than  that  of  all  other  American  companies  combined.  It  owns 
large  fire-proof  office-buildings  in  New  York,  Kansas  City,  Omaha, 
Minneapolis  and  St.  Paul,  and  several  outside  of  the  United 
States. 

The  Fire-insurance  interests  of  the  United  States  have  chal- 
lenged the  closest  attention  and  best  efforts  of  several  powerful  for- 
eign corporations,  preeminent  among  which  is  the  Liverpool  and  Lon- 
don and  Globe  Insurance  Company,  said  to  be  the  largest  fire-insurance 
company  in  the  world.  This  institution  was  founded  at  Liverpool 
in  1836,  as  the  Liverpool  Insurance  Company;  acknowledged  its 
success  at  the  British  metropolis,  by  taking  the  title  of  the  Liverpool 
and  London  Insurance  Co.,  in  1848;  and  16  years  later  augmented 
the  title  again,  upon  acquiring  the  business  of  the  Globe  Insurance 
Company.  An  agency  was  founded  in  the  United  States  in  1851, 
and  the  same  year  the  first  board  of  directors  was  formed  at  New 
York.  Since  that  time,  the  American  business  has  advanced  until 
its  net  fire  premiums  exceed  $4,000,000  a  year.  In  the  Chicago  and 
Boston  fires  of  1871  and  1872  the  company  lost  $4,670,000,  and  its 
abundant  American  resources  were  not  merely  maintained  but 
largely  supplemented  by  English  funds,  so  that  all  losses  were 
promptly  paid  in  full.  These  ample  means  in  both  hemispheres  give  greater  security  to 
the  policy-holders  of  the  Liverpool  and  London  and  Globe,  whose  United-States  branch  after 
paying  over  $48,000,000  in  fire-losses  now  has  a  surplus  of  above  $3,000,000.  The  Liver- 
pool and  London  and  Globe  building  in  New  York  is  one  of  the  finest  of  those  superb  office 
edifices  for  which  lower  New  York  is  famous,  and  although  built  some  years  ago,  it  stands 
in  the  front  rank  to-day. 

In  fire-insurance  one  of  the  most  notable  corporations  is  the  Con- 
tinental Insurance  Company,  of  New  York,  which  dates  its  origin  from 
the  year  1853,  when  it  started  with  the  largest  capital  ($500,000)  of 
any  fire-insurance  company  at  that  time.  The  subscriptions  to  its 
stock  poured  in  so  freely  that  out  of  the  overplus  was  organized  the 
Home  Insurance  Company.  The  Continental  has  been  a  progressive 
company,  and  the  late  George  T.  Hope,  the  president  for  more  than 
30  years,  was  one  of  the  foremost  underwriters  of  his  day.  The 
paid-up  cash  capital  is  $1,000,000,  and  the  available  cash  assets  reach 
nearly  $6,000,000,  including  a  net  surplus  of  $1,600,000,  in  addition 
to  the  reserve  fund  for  insurance  in  force  of  $2,500,000.  The  gross 
income  is  about  $2,500,000  a  year,  which  largely  exceeds  the  expendi- 
tures for  all  purposes.  The  sums  paid  for  fire-losses  amount  to 
over  $25,000,000,  $2,000,000  having  been  paid  for  losses  by  the 
Chicago  fire  of  1871,  without  impairing  its  capital,  and  $500,000  for 
the  Boston  fire  of  1872.  F.  C.  Moore  is  the  President,  and  Cyrus 
Peck  is  the  Vice-President  and  Secretary. 

A  great  sea-port  like  New  York  naturally  has  many  companies  for  insuring  vessels  and 
their  cargoes.  The  largest  and  strongest  and  most  successful  marine  insurance  company 
in  the  United  States  is  the  Atlantic  Mutual  Insurance  Company  of  New  York,  which  was 
incorporated  in  1842,  and  now  has  assets  of  above  $12,500,000,  for  the  security  of  its 
policies.  These  amazing  figures  may  be  extended  by  the  statement  that  the  marine 
premiums  amount  to  over  $5,000,000  a  year.  The  profits  of  the  company  revert  to  the 
insured,  and  are  divided  yearly  upon  the  premiums  terminated  during  the  year,  thereby 


NEW  YORK  :   CONTINENTAL 
INSURANCE   CO. 


THE  STATE   OF  NEW   YORK. 


619 


NEW  YORK:   ATLANTIC  MUTUAL  INSURANCE  co. 


reducing  the  cost  of  insurance,  the  company  being, 
as  the  name  indicates,  for  the  mutual  benefit  of  its 
policy-holders.  These  dividends  are  paid  in  in- 
terest-bearing certificates,  known  as  "Scrip," 
which  are  in  time  redeemed  by  the  company.  Pro- 
vision is  made  for  issuing  policies  making  the 
losses  payable  in  England.  The  Atlantic  Mutual 
owns  its  office  buildings,  on  Wall  Street,  at  the 
corner  of  William  Street.  John  D.  Jones,  its 
President,  has  been  identified  with  the  company 
since  it  began  business. 

Railroads.— The  New- York  Central  &  Hud- 
son-River Railroad  is  one  of  the  grandest  routes 
of  the  world,  and  over  its  magnificent  quadruple 
tracks  passes  a  large  proportion  of  the  freight  and  passenger  traffic  between  New  York  and 
New  England  and  the  West.  Its  Grand  Central  Station  in  New  York  is  an  enormous 
structure  of  brick,  iron  and  glass,  located  in  the  very  center  of  the  city.  Here  come  and 
depart  the  thronging  trains  of  the  routes  from  New  England,  as  well  as  the  vast  passenger 
traffic  of  the  Vanderbilt  lines.  It  is  the  only  railway  passenger  station  on  Manhattan  Island. 
The  New- York  Central  trains  traverse  the  garden 
of  the  Empire  State,  rich  in  agricultural  and  in- 
dustrial resources,  and  teeming  with  busy  cities 
and  attractive  villages.  For  140 
miles  they  follow  the  beautiful  Hud- 
son River,  through  one  of  the  finest 
scenic  regions  in  the  world,  and 
beyond  Albany  they  ascend  the  his- 
toric Mohawk  Valley,  and  pass  on 
to  and  through  the  interesting  cities 
of  Schenectady,  Utica,  Rome,  Syra- 
cuse, and_Rochester,  to  Buffalo  and 
Niagara  Falls,  reaching  the  latter 
either  via  Lockport  or  Buffalo.  The 
famous  "New- York  &  Chicago  Limited,"  "North  Shore  Limited,"  and  "Southwestern 
Limited"  trains,  running  over  this  route,  are  probably  the  most  magnificent  and  complete 
railway  trains  in  the  world,  and  give  the  quickest  and  most  comfortable  transit  between  New 
York  and  Boston,  on  the  one  side,  and  the  great  cities  of  the  interior  and  Western  States 
on  the  other.  The  New- York  Central  is  the  only  railroad  in  the  world  with  four  tracks, 
forming  an  unrivalled  steel  highway  between  the  East  and  the  West.  The  Michigan  Cen- 
tral line  connects  with  the  New-York  Central  at  Buffalo,  and  the  great  through  trains 
pass  from  one  system  to  the  other,  and  across  into  Canada,  with  a  magnificent  prospect 
of  Niagara  Falls  from  Falls-View  station.  Flying  across  the  wide  Ontario  plains,  and 
Southern  Michigan,  the  trains  enter  Chicago. 

The  New  York,  Lake-Erie  &  Western  Railroad  runs  from  the  metropolis  northwest 
through  the  southern  tier  of  counties  to  Buffalo,  422  miles,  connecting  for  the  West.  The 
Delaware&  Hudson  Canal  Company's  Railroads  run  northeast  from  Binghamton  to  Albany, 
Lake  Champlain  and  Montreal.  The  Rome,  Watertown  &  Ogdensburg  Railroad  follows 
the  Lake-Ontario  shores.  There  are  many  north  and  south  and  other  lines. 

A  favorite  route  from  New- York  City  to  the  eastward,  to  Boston,  to  Providence,  and 
to  the  White  Mountains  and  other  pleasure-resorts  and  cities  of  Massachusetts,  New  Hamp- 
shire and  Maine,  is  by  the  Providence  &  Stonington  Steamboat  Company.  These  magnifi- 
cent vessels  are  among  the  staunch est,  swiftest  and  most  luxurious  steamers  in  the  world, 


NEW  YORK  I  GRAND  CENTRAL  STATION. 


620  KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE    UNITED   STATES. 

and  are  of  enormous  size.  The  fleet  includes  the  first-class  steamships,  Massachusetts,  Con- 
necticut, Rhode  Island,  Stonington  and  Narragansett,  forming  two  lines  eastward  from  New 
York,  each  with  a  boat  leaving  at  late  afternoon,  the  Stonington  Line  making  connections 
with  the  Shore  Line  Railway,  for  Boston  at  Stoning- 
ton, very  early  in  the  morning,  while  the  Providence 
Line  boat  runs  close  to  Block  Island,  and, 
avoiding  the  rough  sea  at  Point  Judith, 
ascends  the  whole  length  of  Narra- 
gansett Bay  to  Providence,  where  it  con- 
nects with  the  railways  for  Boston  and 
all  other  New-England  points.  As  these 
steamships  pass  majestically  around  New 

,r       ,  j     V>  1   1  i  T-          J  J  LONG-ISLAND  SOUND  I    PROVIDENCE   AND   STONINGTON    LINE. 

York  and    Brooklyn,  by  the  deep  and 

crowded  rivers,  they  reveal  a  wonderful  panorama  of  civic  and  maritime  power  and  dignity ; 
and  they  sweep  through  Hell  Gate,  and  out  into  Long-Island  Sound,  as  evening  comes 
down,  and  the  lighthouses  begin  to  twinkle.  The  "Providence  Line"  sails  from  Pier  29 
(old  number),  and  the  "  Stonington  Line"  from  Pier  36,  both  in  the  North  River. 

In  March,  1852,  Henry  Wells,  William  G.  Fargo,  and  others  organized  in  New- York 
City,  under  the  laws  of  the  State  of  New  York,  Wells,  Fargo  &  Company,  to  transact  an 
Express,  Exchange  and  Banking  business,  particularly  on  the  Pacific  Coast,  but  also  be- 
tween San  Francisco,  New  York  and  Europe.  The  company  sprang  into  existence, 
Minerva-like,  fully  equipped  for  service  ;  and  at  once  engaged  upon  its  long  mission  of  trust 
and  responsibility,  ever  since  maintaining  itself  successfully  amidst  some  of  the  most  trying 
vicissitudes ;  extending  its  lines  farther  and  farther,  over  the  mountains,  across  deserts  and 
plains,  and  along  inland  water-ways,  until  it  spans  the  broad  continent,  extending  through- 
out forty-one  States  and  Territories  within  the  United  States  and  Mexico,  as  well  as  reach- 
ing Great  Britain  and  Continental  Europe.  In  1888  it  acquired  the  Erie  System,  centering 
in  New  York,  and  extensive  auxiliary  lines,  thus  securing  its  own  direct  through  lines  to  New 
York,  Boston,  and  all  other  large  commercial  centres,  and  where  it  is  now  prominently 
represented.  The  company  operates  40,000  miles  of  lines  by  railway,  stage  and  steamer; 
has  2,720  agencies  and  about  6,000  employes  ;  transacts  millions  of  business  annually  in  its 
Express  Department ;  and  handles,  in  its  Banking  Department,  its  accumulated  capital  and 
deposits,  amounting  to  $10,000,000.  The  main  office  of  the  company  in  New- York  City 
is  at  63  Broadway,  but  its  headquarters  proper,  or  General  Accounting  Office,  is  in  San 
Francisco.  It  was  Wells,  Fargo  &  Company  that  originated,  in  1860,  the  famous  Pony 
Express,  for  the  most  rapid  conveyance  then  possible  of  important  mail  correspondence, 
across  the  continent.  The  success  of  the  undertaking  demonstrated  its  practicability,  and 
suggested  other  possibilities  of  accommodating  the  needs  of  the  age.  The  narrow  trail  of 
the  pony  may  be  said  to  have  marked  out  the  course  soon  afterwards  followed  by  the  capa- 
cious mail  and  passenger  coaches,  along  with  the  telegraph-wires ;  and 
in  no  less  quick  succession,  that  of  the  railroad-track  and  swift-speeding 
locomotive,  which  now  unite  in  one  bond  of  fraternal  intercourse  the 
widely  separated  extremities  of  the  continent.  The 
Express  Building,  in  San  Francisco,  is  one  of  the 
marked  architectural  features  of  that  city,  its  massive 
exterior  covering  two  thirds  of  a  block.  The  interior 
arrangements  are  models  for  comfort  and  convenience  ; 
and  it  is  probably  the  largest  and  best  appointed  ex- 
press office  of  the  world. 

Hotels.  —  The  noble   white-marble    pile  of    the 
Fifth-Avenue  Hotel,   in  rich  Corinthian  architecture, 
NEW*YORK  :  POST-OFFICE.  covering  18  city-lots,  and  accommodating  1,000  guests, 


THE  STATE   OF  NEW   YORK. 


621 


NEW  YORK  :     FIFTH-AVENUE    HOTEL   AND    MADISON    SQUARE. 


marks  a  place  in  the  heart  of  New- 
York  City,  and  an  era  in  the  his- 
tory of  the  Nation's  wealth  and 
advancement.  It  is  located  in  the 
centre  of  the  city,  upon  the  charm- 
ing Madison  Square,  and  at  the 
intersection  of  Broadway  and  Fifth 
Avenue,  and  convenient  to  the 
most  important  points  of  interest 
in  the  metropolis.  Its  patrons 
include  the  most  prominent  men  and  women  in  America  :  The  Presidents ;  hundreds  of 
Government  officials,  Senators,  Congressmen,  Judges,  Army  and  Navy  officers,  divines, 
physicians,  authors,  and  in  fact  all  who  have  attained  prominence  in  public  and  private  life, 
both  at  home  and  abroad,  and  the  most  distinguished  Europeans  of  rank  and  title  who  have 
visited  this  country.  It  has  been  the  centre  of  the  great  public  occasions  which  the  city 
has  witnessed  for  thirty  years.  Years  have  come  and  gone,  new  hotels  have  multiplied, 
with  innovations  introduced  to  affect  and  influence  patronage,  but  the  Fifth-Avenue  is  as 
new  and  fresh  as  the  most  recent  hotels,  and  with  more  liberal  accommodations  than  any  of 
them,  and  its  well-earned  reputation,  as  the  leading  hotel  of  the  world,  is  assured. 

New  York  is  the  metropolitan  city  of  the  greatest  nation  of  travellers  that  the  world  has 
ever  seen,  and  it  is  natural  that  it  should  be  richly  endowed 
with  public  accommodations  for  its  myriads  of  transient 
guests.  Prominent  among  these  homes  of  the  voyagers  is 
the  magnificent  Gilsey  House,  whose  white  marble  walls  rise 
above  the  surrounding  buildings,  at  the  corner  of  Broadway 
and  2Qth  Streets,  close  to  the  up-town  theatres,  and  within 
a  square  of  the  elevated  railroad,  .by  whose  aid  people  can 
quickly  and  easily  reach  any  part  of  the  city.  This  house 
dates  from  about  the  year  1876,  but  has  been  added  to  at 
various  times,  and  has  always  been  a  favorite  resort  for  the 
travelling  public.  It  is  kept  on  the  European  plan.  Not 
only  is  it  a  thoroughly  appointed  modern  hotel  in  every  sense 
of  the  word,  but  it  is  handsomely  furnished,  and  kept  up  in  most 
creditable  style.  Its  restaurant  is  famous  all  over  the  world 
as  unsurpassed  in  this  country.  The  senior  proprietor  is  James  H.  Breslin,  one  of  the  uni- 
versally known  hotel-kings  of  America,  who  occupies  also  the  responsible  position  of  Presi- 
dent of  the  Hotel-Men's  Benefit  Association.  He  is  also  the  senior  landlord  of  the  wonder- 
ful Auditorium  Hotel  at  Chicago. 

In  some  respects  the  Niagara  Hotel,  at  Buffalo,  stands  without  a  rival.  Planned,  built 
and  owned  by  George  H.  Lewis  (of  the  well-known  coal-mining  firm  of  Bell,  Lewis  &  Yates), 
a  gentleman  of  great  wealth  and  wide  travel,  it  has  many  of  the  delightful  attributes  of  a 
refined  and  beautiful  home,  unusual  in  the  public  houses  of  our  Republic.  The  main  hall, 
or  reception-room,  is  fur-  J  nished  and  decorated  in  exquisite  taste,  with  easy  chairs,  Ori- 
ental rugs  and  works  of  art,  with  the  office 
alcoved  in  one  side,  and  on  another  a  great 
tropical  conservatory  of  palms  and  cacti,  with 
fountains,  birds  and  music.  The  beautiful 
parlors,  the  comfortable  guest-chambers,  and 
all  other  parts  of  the  house  are  in  the  same 
key  of  quiet  luxury,  and  are  provided  with  all 
devices  for  sanitation,  abundant  water  and 
BUFFALO:  NIAGARA  HOTEL.  scientific  ventilation,  and  automatic  fire-alarms. 


<EW  YORK  :     GILSEY    HOUSE. 


622 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE    UNITED   STATES. 


DANSVILLE  I    THE   JACKSON   SANATORIUM. 


The  Niagara  stands  in  a  situation  of  unusual  beauty,  on  the  crest  of  Prospect  Hill,  close  to 
the  umbrageous  parks  which  border  Niagara  Street,  and  within  a  few  steps  of  the  street- 
cars. From  the  windows,  and  from  the  adjacent  park,  in  front  of  Fort  Porter,  the  view  in- 
cludes the  soft  blue  Chautauqua  hills,  the  rural  Canadian  shores,  the  shining  plain  of  Lake 
Erie,  and  the  resistless  current  of  the  Niagara  River.  In  summer,  the  house  is  cool  and  airy ; 
in  winter,  its  beautiful  palm-gardens  preserve  the  temperature  of  the  Bahamas.  Besides  being 
the  home  of  many  well-to-do  families,  the  Niagara  is  a  favorite  stopping  place  for  the  best 
class  of  travellers,  for  it  affords  them  the  most  admirable  opportunities  for  quiet  rest,  and 
is  easily  reached  from  the  centre  of  the  city.  The  manager  is  Charles  A.  Dunn. 

In  the  beautiful  and  salubrious  hill-country  of  Western  New  York,  and  amid  the  Tyrolese 
scenery  of  Dansville,  stands  one  of  the  notable  institutions  of  America,  the  Jackson  Sana- 
torium, founded  in  1858 
by  Dr.  James  C.  Jackson, 
for  the  scientific  care  of 
chronic  invalids,  and  for  a 
place  where  overworked 
and  nervous  men  and 
women  could  find  rest 
and  recuperation.  The 
high  Dansville  region  is 
entirely  free  from  malaria, 
and  has  an  exceptionally  dry  and  pure  air,  perfumed  from  vast  evergreen  forests,  with  cool 
summer-nights,  and  singularly  mild  and  almost  snowless  winters.  This  favorable  climate 
has  given  the  adjacent  Genesee  Valley  its  fame  as  a  rich  fruit  and  grain  country.  The 
Sanatorium  is  supplied,  from  lofty  rocky  heights,  with  the  purest  of  water,  of  great  efficacy 
in  curing  many  diseases.  The  regularity,  quietude  and  comfort  of  the  life  here,  re-enforced 
in  some  cases  by  thermo-electric  and  electric,  Turkish  and  Russian  baths,  massage  and  in- 
unction, and  other  restorative  agencies,  have  brought  back  health  to  many  an  invalid,  and 
far  prolonged  the  lives  of  many  incurables.  From  the  handsomely  illustrated  pamphlets 
issued  by  the  manager,  J.  Arthur  Jackson,  M.  D. ,  it  is  learned  that  the  Sanatorium  includes 
a  magnificent  main  building  of  brick  and  iron,  erected  in  1883,  and  absolutely  fire-proof,  with 
elevators  and  electric  bells,  steam  heat  and  detached  sewage  system,  and  broad  prom- 
enade piazzas.  There  are  twelve  pleasant  cottages  clustered  about  it,  in  a  picturesque  hill- 
side park  of  forty  acres,  1, 200  feet  above  the  sea.  The  managing  physicians  are  James  H. 
Jackson,  M.  D.,  Kate  J.  Jackson,  M.  D.,  and  Walter  E.  Gregory,  M.  D.  J.  Arthur  Jack- 
son is  manager. 

The  Theatres  of  New  York  are  numbered  by  hundreds,  from  the  comfortable  play- 
houses of  the  smaller  cities  up  to  the  great  opera-houses  of  New- York  City,  and  its  mag- 
nificent Madison-Square  Garden,  one  of  the  wonders  of  the  world.  Among  these  places 
of  amusement  there  are  two  in  New- York  City  that  hold  a  high  place  in  the  esteem  of  all 
people,  the  "Madison  Square"  and  "Palmer's;"  both 
under  the  single  management  of  A.  M.  Palmer,  whose 
career  has  been  distinguished  for  ability,  purpose,  refine- 
ment and  success.  These  two  theatres  as  well  as  the  Union- 
Square  during  Mr.  Palmer's  management,  from  1872  to 
1882,  have  been  powerful  agencies  for  the  development 
of  a  wholesome  influence  of  the  stage  and  on  those  con- 
nected with  stage  life,  and  Mr.  Palmer's  record  will  always 
be  referred  to  for  its  unswerving  devotion  to  that  only 
which  is  pure  and  elevating ;  the  result  being  that  his  audi- 
ences represent  the  culture  and  refinement  of  these  times. 
Then,  too,  both  these  theatres  are  notable  for  their  NEW  YORK:  PALMER'S  THEATRE. 


NEW  YORK:    MADISON -SQUARE  THEATRE. 


THE  STATE  OF  NEW  YORK. 

construction.  The  Madison- Square,  when  rebuilt  by  Steele 
Mackaye,  was  regarded  as  the  ideal  theatre  of  its  time  ; 
having  a  moving  double  stage,  to  allow  for  the  arranging 
of  the  scenery  for  one  act  while  another  is  going  on ;  its 
curtain  is  a  work  of  art,  in  velvet,  with  very  heavy  hand 
embroidery ;  its  orchestra  plays  just  over  the  proscenium 
arch ;  all  the  workshops  being  outside  the  main  structure ; 
and  here  were  first  introduced  soft  tones  and  harmonious 
blendings  in  the  finish  and  decorations.  "Palmer's"  was 
built  by  Lester  Wallack,  the  famous  light  comedian  and 
manager,  one  of  the  Wallack  family  who  dominated  the 
New-York  stage  for  40  years.  He  spent  a  great  fortune 
to  erect  this  theatre,  which  is  notable  for  its  elegance, 
commodiousness,  and  solidity.  Both  theatres  are  practi- 
cally fire-proof,  and  have  many  places  of  exit.  Mr.  Palmer 
acquired  the  Madison  Square  in  1884,  and  Palmer's  in 
1888.  In  1880  he  originated  the  Actors'  Fund,  ever  since 
being  its  president.  It  has  distributed  $150,000  in  charities.  Among  the  many  American 
plays  he  has  placed  before  the  public  two  are  memorable  for  their  remarkable  successes : 
Bronson  Howard's  "The  Banker's  Daughter,"  and  Bartley  Campbell's  "My  Partner." 
Lumber  and  Coal  are  among  the  commodities  most  largely  handled  in  New  York, 
and  two  of  their  chief  ports,  Tonawanda  and  Rondout,  lie  at  opposite  ends  of  the  State. 
Tonawanda,  situated  midway  between  Buffalo  and  Niagara  Falls,  ranks  second  only  to 
Chicago  as  the  greatest  lumber  centre  in  the  world.  Here  since  1876  have  grown  up  a  score 
or  more  of  firms  whose  huge  piles  of  lumber  cover  many  hundreds  of  acres,  and  whose 
many  miles  of  lumber  docks  make  a  sight  seen  only  at  a  few  places  on  this  continent.  It 
is  no  wonder  that  Tonawanda  has  -thus  developed,  for  it  is  not  only  favorably  situated  for 
receipts  and  shipments  by  lake,  canal  and  rail ;  but  here  was  found  a  vast  acreage  of  low, 
flat  land,  just  suited  to  the  most  economical  handling  and  storage  of  immense  quantities. 
Here  about  800,000,000  feet  are  received  in  a  year.  Over  150,000,000  shingles  are  either 
made  or  received  here.  In  1890  over  1,400  vessels  entered  the  port  of  Tonawanda,  and  all 
the  year  round  can  be  seen  large  fleets  of  many-sized  and  many-shaped  vessels. 

Of  the  score  of  Tonawanda  firms  engaged  in  the  lumber  industry  there  are  several  that 

rank  among  the  great - 
est  lumber  concerns  of 
the  United  States.  For 
example,  A.  M.  Dodge 
&  Co. ,  whose  great  yards 
at  North  Tonawanda 
are  the  outlets  for  the 
TONAWANDA  :  A.  M.  DODGE  &  co.  products  of  their  sev- 

eral lumber  manufacturing  establishments,  where  their  yearly  output  is  about  150,000,000 
feet,  chiefly  of  white  pine.  The  capital  employed  by  this  firm  alone  amounts  to  several 
million  dollars,  and  its  shipments  of  lumber  are  made  all  over  the  world. 

The  plant  erected  at  Rondout,  by  the  Dodge 
Coal  Storage  Company,  of  Philadelphia,  is  the 
most  wonderful  coal-handling  mechanism  in 
America  for  trimming  and  re-loading  enormous 
quantities  of  coal,  by  means  of  endless  chains 
travelling  over  trussed  shear-frames.  This  in- 
genious coal-handling  machinery  results  in  vast 
economies  of  money  and  labor.  RONDOUT  :  DODGE  COAL  STORAGE  co.  -s  SYSTEM. 


624  KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

The  Newspapers  of  New  York,  and  especially  the  great  metropolitan  dailies,  are 
among  the  most  powerful  agencies  in  forming  and  directing  American  public  opinion. 
Many  of  the  brightest  writers  in  the  country  are  kept  busy  the  year  round  in  preparing  the 
articles  for  these  unrivalled  newspapers,  the  libraries  of  the  people. 

The  New- York  World  is  unanimously  admitted  to  enjoy  the 
distinction  of  "America's  foremost  newspaper."  From  the  time  of 
its  purchase  by  its  present  proprietor,  Joseph  Pulitzer,  it  has  en- 
tirely outstripped  all  journalistic  history  in  its  unheard-of  accom- 
plishments, phenomenal  growth,  and  startling  innovations.  From 
a  circulation  of  33,521  copies  a  day  in  1883,  The  World  has 
advanced  by  gigantic  strides  to  316,636  a  day  in  1890.  Its 
advertising  has  sustained  an  equal  ratio  of  increase,  the  records 
showing  7,241  advertisements  per  month  in  1883,  and  64,223  per 
month  during  1890.  The  World  was  founded  in  1860,  as  a  re- 
ligious daily,  with  large  means.  It  did  not  succeed;  and  in  1862 
was  bought  by  S.  L.  M.  Barlow,  August  Belmont,  and  others,  and 
made  the  leading  Democratic  journal  of  America,  under  the  editor- 
ship of  Manton  Marble,  who,  in  1869,  came  into  possession  of  the 
entire  property.  In  1876,  it  passed  into  other  hands,  and  steadily 
ran  down  until  Mr.  Pulitzer  came  from  St.  Louis  and  bought  it, 
introducing  new  men,  measures  and  methods,  new  purposes,  policy 
and  principles.  The  Pulitzer  Building,  the  new  home  of  The 
World,  was  erected  in  1889-90,  from  designs  by  George  S.  Post, 
the  architect  of  the  Produce  Exchange,  and  is  a  magnificent  busi- 
ness structure,  embodying  the  very  latest  and  best  ideas  in  con- 
structive art.  It  is  the  tallest  office-building  in  the  world,  and  the 
highest  structure  in  New  York  (309  feet  from  sidewalk  to  lantern ; 
375^  fegt  fr°m  foundation  to  the  top  of  the  flagstaff).  The  floors  and  dome  are  carried  by 
a  mighty  skeleton  of  iron  and  steel  columns  and  beams,  to  which  the  walls  are  but  as  clothing. 
This  colossal  and  uninflammable  26-story  structure  lifts  its  impressive  dome  high  above  even 
the  mighty  buildings  which  stand  around  it,  about  the  City- Hall  Park  ;  and  contains  the 
most  perfect  and  best-equipped  newspaper  offices  in  the  world.  In  the  carrying  to  such  a 
wonderful  success  his  gigantic  undertaking,  Mr.  Pulitzer  has  shown  that  it  is  possible  for 

one  man  to  be  both  a  great  editor  and  a  great  business  man. 
The  New-York  Times,  one  of  the  most  commendable 
newspapers  of  the  world,  was  founded  in  1851,  by  George 
Jones,  its  present  proprietor,  who  is  the  oldest  and  one  of  the 
most  famous  of  New- York  newspaper  owners,  and  Henry 
J.  Raymond,  formerly  Horace  Greeley's  assistant  on  the 
Tribune,  and  one  of  the  most  brilliant  men  America  ever 
produced.  The  Times  started  as  a  one-cent  four-page 
paper,  but  the  price  was  doubled  the  next  year,  and  the 
future  of  the  enterprise  became  assured.  One  of  the  grand- 
est of  journalistic  achievements  was  the  victorious  attack 
made  by  the  Times  on  the  Tweed  ring,  the  plunderers  of 
New  York,  all  of  whose  members  were  driven  into  prison 
or  exile  as  a  result.  Formerly  a  strong  Republican  paper, 
of  late  years  the  Times  has  been  independent  in  politics, 
supporting  civil-service  reform  and  tariff  reduction,  fight- 
ing trusts,  and  generally  opposing  all  the  seemingly  un- 
worthy actions  of  the  Republican  and  Democratic  adminis- 
THE TIMES."  trations.  Its  reports  are  accurate,  concise,  and  readable, 


NEW    YORK  I 
THE   WORLD  "    BUILDING. 


THE  STATE   OF  NEW    YORK.  625 

and  ample  room  is  given  to  literature  and  religious  news,  art  and  science,  the  army  and 
navy,  agriculture  and  market  reports,  and  commercial  and  industrial  progress.  The  thor- 
ough appointments  of  the  counting,  editorial,  composition,  and  press-rooms  put  The  Times 
establishment  on  an  equal  footing  with  the  best  in  the  world.  The  Times  occupies  a  mag- 
nificent 13-story  building  of  Maine  granite  and  Hoosier  Indiana  limestone,  between  Spruce 
and  Nassau  streets  and  Park  Row,  in  the  unique  newspaper  district  of  New  York.  The 
Times  building  is  a  most  graceful  office-edifice,  and  its  simple  elegance  and  admirable  con- 
struction throughout  make  it  one  of  the  most  notable  architectural  specimens  of  the  city. 

The  Evening  Post  is  very  nearly  as  old  as  the  century,  the 
first  number  having  been  issued  on  the  1 6th  of  November,  1801. 
It  was  established  by  Alexander  Hamilton  and  certain  of  his  po- 
litical friends,  as  an  organ  of  the  Federalists  in  New- York  City. 
William  Coleman,  a  native  of  Boston,  and  at  one  time  the  law 
partner  of  Aaron  Burr,  was  selected  as  editor-in-chief,  and  held 
that  position  until  his  death,  20  years  later.  William  Cullen 
Bryant  became  one  of  the  editors  of  the  paper  in  1826,  but  did 
not  assume  full  control  of  it  until  1828.  In  the  following  year  he 
took  William  Leggett  into  partnership,  and  left  the  latter  in  edi- 
torial charge  when  he  went  to  Europe  in  the  summer  of  1834. 
He  returned  to  America  in  the  early  part  of  1836,  and  soon  after- 
ward Mr.  Leggett  retired,  on  account  of  the  temporary  unpopular- 
ity in  which  he  had  involved  himself  and  the  paper  by  his  vigorous 
denunciations  of  the  subjection  of  the  Abolitionists  to  mob  law, 

JL  and  his  sturdy  defense  of  the  right  of  free  speech  in  regard  to 
slavery  and  other  topics.  During  the  administration  of  President 
Jackson  The  Evening  Post  was  one  of  the  strongest  opponents  of 
the  United- States  Bank,  and  also  won  wide  recognition  as  an  able  and  consistent  advocate 
of  free  trade.  From  that  day  to  this  it  has  been  constant  in  its  active  resistance  to  high 
protection  and  in  its  exposure  of  the  fallacies  of  that  theory. 

In  the  early  days  of  Mr.  Bryant's  editorship  the  policy  of  the  paper  was  Democratic,  but 
it  became  Republican  when  the  slavery  extension  question  arose.  From  1849  until  1861 
John  Bigelow  was  Mr.  Bryant's  partner,  and  acted  as  managing  editor.  Upon  Mr.  Bigelow's 
retirement  his  interest  reverted  to  Isaac  Henderson,  who  was  the  active  business  manager 
of  the  paper  for  many  years,  but  had  no  authoritative  voice  with  respect  to  its  policy,  which 
Mr.  Bryant  was  careful  to  retain  in  his  personal  control.  When  Mr.  Bryant  died,  his  son- 
in-law,  Parke  Godwin,  who  had  been  connected  with  the  paper  in  different  capacities  for 
many  years,  succeeded  to  the  editorship,  and  retained  it  until  the 
present  proprietors  came  into  possession,  in  1 88 1.  Since  that  time 
The  Evening  Post  has  been  conducted  in  a  spirit  of  complete  inde- 
pendence, under  the  editorship  of  E.  L.  Godkin  and  Horace  White. 
The  Independent  stands  by  general  consent  at  the  head  of  the 
religious  papers  of  the  United  States,  if  not  of  the  world.  It  was 
started  in  1848  as  an  organ  of  the  younger  liberal  Congregational  - 
ists,  and  backed  by  five  young  business  men,  one  of  whom,  Henry  C. 
Bowen,  soon  became  its  sole  owner,  and  has  continued  such  to 
the  present  time.  Its  first  editors  were  Leonard  Bacon,  R.  S. 
Storrs,  Joseph  P.  Thompson,  and  Joshua  Leavitt.  Seven  years  later 
Henry  Ward  Beecher  became  editor,  assisted  by  Theodore  Tilton, 
\vho  succeeded  him  after  a  few  years.  During  Mr.  Beecher's  control 
the  paper  enlarged  its  scope,  and  was  made  an  undenominational 
journal.  In  1871  Mr.  Tilton  retired,  and  Mr.  Bowen  assumed  edi- 

i     torial    charge.      Among    his   assistants  have  been    Dr.    Edward 


NEW    YORK  I 
1  THE  EVENING   POST. 


NEW  YORK : 
1  THE   INDEPENDENT. ' 


626 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 


Eggleston,  Dr.  William  Hayes  Ward,  Justin  McCarthy,  Dr.  Washington  Gladden,  Dr. 
Henry  K.  Carroll,  Prof.  Borden  C.  Bowne,  and  Prof.  C.  H.  Toy.  It  is  the  largest  religious 
paper  published,  and  combines  the  character  of  a  literary  magazine  with  that  of  a  religious 
journal ;  not  only  discussing  all  current  religious  questions,  but  providing  an  extensive  com- 
bination of  literary  attractions  in  poems,  stories,  and  essays,  by  the  most  distinguished 
writers,  and  also  giving  financial,  commercial,  and  general  news  and  discussions.  It  appeals 
especially  to  thinking  people,  and  it  pays  more  for  contributions  from  outside  writers  than 
any  other  three  or  four  religious  papers ;  and  of  necessity  carries  exceptional  influence. 

The  New-  York  Ledger,  one  of  the  most  successful  of  American 
periodicals,  was  founded  in  1 856  by  Robert  Bonner,  the  father  of 
its  present  editors  and  proprietors.  Its  success  was  due  entirely 
to  the  originality  and  enterprise  of  its  founders.  Nothing  like  it 
was  known  before,  and  the  methods  pursued  in  its  production  and 
distribution  were  equally  new.  The  best  writers  were  engaged, 
at  unexampled  rates  of  compensation,  and  the  paper  was  adver- 
tised on  a  scale  altogether  without  precedent.  A  new  industry 
was  created  to  distribute  it  to  the  public ;  and  the  system  of 
news-agencies,  then  in  its  infancy,  sprang  up  at  once  into  its  full 
growth.  The  success  then  initiated  has  been  maintained.  There 
is  the  same  splendid  liberality  in  procuring  the  best  contributions 
from  the  most  popular  writers,  and  placing  them  in  an  attractive 
form  before  the  public.  The  Ledger  continues  to  be  one  of  the 
NEW  YORK:  "THE  LEDGER."  best-advertised  papers  in  the  United  States.  Among  its  contribu- 
tors are  Mrs.  Frances  Hodgson  Burnett,  Robert  Louis  Stevenson,  Amelia  E.  Barr,  John  G. 
Whittier,  James  Russell  Lowell,  Judge  Albion  Tourgee,  Aryia  Katherine  Green,  James 
Parton,  Herbert  Ward,  Harold  Frederic,  and  Robert  Grant.  The  present  proprietors  have 
begun  to  issue,  in  book-form,  the  popular  works  pub- 
lished as  serials  in  The  Ledger,  and  these  form  an  im- 
portant department  in  the  publishing  business  of  the 
firm.  The  house  of  Robert  Bonner's  Sons  succeeded 
to  the  business  of  Robert  Bonner,  in  1887,  and  are  the 
editors  and  proprietors  of  the  Ledger  and  the  Ledger 
Library. 

The  New- York  Tribune,  founded  in  1841  by 
Horace  Greeley,  and  conducted  by  Whitelaw  Reid, 
has  been  for  many  years  the  beacon-star  of  the  Repub- 
lican party  in  the  Nation,  and  the  ideal  journal  of  cur- 
rent reform.  The  Sun,  Charles  A.  Dana's  great  paper,  has  a  colossal  circulation  among  the 

people  of  the  whole  country,  and  is  the  favorite  paper 
for  journalists.  The  New- York  Herald,  founded  in 
1835  by  James  Gordon  Bennett,  is  especially  rich  in 
foreign  news,  and  is  regarded  as  a  typical  American 
newspaper,  in  enterprise  and  ability.  The  German- 
Americans  are  represented  by  the  Staats-Zeitung ; 
and  other  races  by  other  papers.  The  magazines  of 
New  York,  Harper's,  The  Century,  Scribner's  and 
others,  enjoy  enormous  circulations,  the  world  over. 
The  Manufactures  of  New  York  are  of  inde- 
scribable variety  and  vast  extent,  extending  from  the 
diamond-cutting  of  Tiffany  and  the  fine  book-making 
of  the  famous  printing-houses,  to  the  most  gigantic 

WALL    STREET,    THE   SUB-TREASURY,  .  ^ 

AND  TRINITY  CHURCH.  achievements  in  heavy  metal-work. 


NEW   YORK  :     THE   ASTOR    LIBRARY. 


THE  STATE   OF  NEW   YORK. 


NIAGARA   FALLS  AND  THE   NIAGARA  RIVER. 


628 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED  STATES. 


In  the  Washington  Block  in  Buffalo  is  situated  a  typographical  establishment,  of  unique 
interest  to  the  readers  of  this  book  ;  for  there  it  was  made.  The  larger  part  of  this  spacious 
building,  with  166  feet  of  frontage  on  each  of  two  principal  streets,  is  occupied  by  the 
Complete  Art-Printing  Works  of  The  Matthews-Northrup  Company,  in  connection  with  the 
BUFFALO  EXPRESS,  the  property  of  the  president  and  the  treasurer  of  the  company. 

There  are  a  few  larger  printing  establishments  than  this,  though  it  occupies  over  two 
acres  of  floor-space,  and  has  a  weekly  pay-roll  of  over  $5,000  ;  but  competent  judges  have 
said  that  for  completeness  in  all  that  pertains  to  the  typographic  art  it  stands  without  a 
rival.  Here  the  search  for  perfection  has  resulted  in  the  addition  of  separate  departments, 
calculated  to  turn  out  the  best  of  work  in  all  that  pertains  to  printed  matter,  until  now  the 
establishment  can  carry  through  the  production  of  even  the  most  elaborately  illustrated 
work  without  calling  in  the  assistance  of  a  sub-contractor.  Perhaps  the  best  example  of 
this  completeness  is  furnished  by  this  very  volume.  At  least  twelve  separate  contracts  might 
have  been  made  for  this  book,  and  probably  would  have  been,  if  the  publishers  had  not 
believed  that  each  of  these  contracts  could  best  be  filled  by  this  one  house.  It  may  inter- 
est its  reader  to  see  enumerated  the  various  branches  of  work  used  to  produce  it,  specify- 
ing only  those  commonly  carried  on  alone.  1st,  Designing,  or  putting  into  art-form  the 
special  ornamental  features  like  the  cover,  title-pages  and  illuminations  ;  second,  illus- 
trating, or  the  obtaining  of  the  original  material  from  which  the  2,500  illustrations  were 
made ;  third,  engraving  upon  wood  for  .iff!!^  fi  t^ie  Pr°duction  of  some  of  these 
illustrations  ;  fourth,  drawing  with  ^^gP|  jj§M|ye>  pen  and  ink,  and  engraving  in 
fac-simile  for  other  illustra-  _^SfflllWffilliBl*i^^  tions ;  fifth,  engraving  upon 


wax,  for  the  production 
graving  by  the  direct  pho- 
totype" or  "half-tone") 
seventh,  type  -  setting  ; 
ninth,  printing  of  the 
color  printing  of  maps 
eleventh,  making  the 
Of  course,  so  varied  a 
utilized  on  anyone  work, 


BUFFALO  :     THE    MATTHEWS-NORTHRUP    CO. 
ART-PRINTING    HOUSE.      "THE    BUFFALO    EXPRESS.' 


of  the  maps  ;  sixth,  en- 
tographic  process  ("pho- 
for  the  lining  pages ; 
eighth,  electrotyping ; 
body  of  the  work  ;  tenth, 
and  illuminations; 
cases  ;  twelfth,  binding. 
plant  could  not  often  be 
and  but  few  of  the  custo- 


mers of  this  great  establishment  have  ever  had  experience  of  so  many  of  its  advantages. 

In  the  map  department  is  probably  found  the  widest  distribution  of  customers.  Mexico, 
Australia  and  England  round  out  a  list  which  includes  most  of  the  large  publishers,  and 
probably  half  the  railroads  in  this  country.  In  the  character  of  printers  for  railroads  the 
public  is  most  familiar  with  this  house,  for  its  imprint  is  found  far  and  wide  upon  folders, 
guide-books  and  pamphlets ;  but  many  commercial  and  manufacturing  concerns  have  found 
that  there  was  no  better  place  to  get  a  handsome  catalogue,  and  general  advertisers  have 
taken  editions  of  hundreds  of  thousands  of  pamphlets,  because  they  found  that  the  same  care 
and  skill  and  thought  which  made  a  large  work  great,  would  make  a  little  work  attractive. 

The  founder  of  the  business  was  the  late  J.  N.  Matthews,  who,  in  1878,  bought  THE 
EXPRESS,  then  the  skeleton  of  what  had  been  an  influential  newspaper.  Mr.  Matthews 
was  both  a  born  journalist  and  a  great  printer.  At  one  and  the  same  time  he  started  THE 
EXPRESS  on  a  career  which  has  made  it  one  of  the  best-known  and  most  influential  newspapers 
in  New- York  State,  and  in  connection  with  younger  men  founded  the  printing-firm  of  Mat- 
thews, Northrup  &  Company.  Until  his  death,  in  1888,  he  was  the  active  head  of  these  two 
businesses,  and  they  are  still  managed  by  the  men  whom  he  trained  for  the  purpose. 

One  of  the  best  results  of  the  intimate  connection  between  an  enterprising  newspaper 
and  a  great  printing  and  engraving  house  has  been  the  BUFFALO  ILLUSTRATED  EXPRESS 
(the  Sunday  edition  of  the  daily  EXPRESS).  Commencing  in  quite  a  small  way  to  illustrate 
current  local  events,  this  paper  has  grown  to  be  a  splendid  example  of  what  an  illustrated 
newspaper  should  be,  and  fills  a  field  of  more  than  local  extent. 


NEW   YORK  :     AMERICAN    BOOK   CO. 


THE  STATE   OF  NEW   YORK. 

In  1890  the  American  Book  Company,  the  greatest 
school-book  publishing-house  in  the  world,  came  into  exist- 
ence, buying  up  the  school-book  lists  of  D.  Appleton  &  Co., 
Ivison,  Blakeman  &  Co.,  A.  S.  Barnes  &  Co.,  Van  Antwerp, 
Bragg  &  Co.,  and  Harper  &  Bros.  The  chief  stockholders 
were  formerly  members  of  the  four  first-named  firms,  which 
have  all  retired  from  school-book  publishing.  The  com- 
pany has  establishments  at  New  York,  Cincinnati  and  Chi- 
cago, and  its  business  is  of  world-wide  extent  and  immense 
proportions.  The  American  Book  Company  has  2,000  text- 
books on  its  lists,  suitable  for  all  grades  and  departments, 
from  the  country  primary-school  to  the  university,  and  used 
in  every  part  of  America,  besides  being  exported  to  Mexico 
and  South  America,  England  and  the  Continent,  Syria  and  India,  China  and  Japan,  Egypt, 
South  Africa  and  the  Congo  Free  State.  The  consolidation  of  interests  has  resulted  in  a 
marked  lowering  of  prices,  because  the  books  can  now  be  made  and  sold  much  more 
economically.  It  has  resulted  also  in  the  making  of  better  books  than  ever  before,  because 
while  each  have  had  separately  some  exceptionally  strong  specialties,  now  all  these  strong 
points  can  be  united.  Then,  too,  the  combined  experience  of  all  the  great  school-book 
makers  must  result  beneficially  for  the  education  of  the  whole  of  the  coming  generations. 
American  text-books  are  in  advance  of  all  others,  in  general  excellence,  and  trie  efforts  of 
the  American  Book  Company  will  place  them  in  a  position  even  more  commanding. 

On  that  part  of  Pearl  Street  better  known  as  Franklin  Square  —  near  the  Brooklyn  Bridge, 
and  the  New- York  Post-Office  and  City  Hall  —  is  the  Harper  &  Brothers'  establishment, 
the  largest  and  best-known  publishing-house  in  the  United  States,  if  not  in  the  world. 
Three  immense  buildings  are  fully  occupied  in  the  business.  Within  their  walls  1,000  peo- 
ple are  employed  in  the  production  of  the  Harper  books  and  periodicals,  and  thousands  of 
tons  of  finished  printed  matter  of  a  high  character  go  thence  every  year.  In  1812  James 
and  John  Harper  left  their  father's  farm  in  Newtown,  L.  I.,  and  came  to  New  York 
to  be  apprenticed  as  printers.  After  five  years  they  started  the  office  of  J.  &  J.  Harper, 
and  began  printing  books.  James  was  the  best  pressman  in  town,  and  John  an  excellent 
compositor.  The  first  work  that  bore  their  imprint  was  Locke's  Essay  on  the  Human  Un- 
derstanding, issued  in  1818.  Joseph  Wesley  Harper  and  Fletcher  Harper,  their  younger 
brothers,  after  learning  the  same  trade,  entered  the  firm,  the  one  in  1823,  and  the  other  in 
1825.  In  this  latter  year  they  moved  to  Cliff  Street,  and  the  business  soon  became  the 
largest  in  the  city.  In  1833  the  firm  adopted  the  style  of  Harper  &  Brothers  —  a  name 
that  has  become  indissolubly  identified  with  the  noblest  and  most  creditable  literature  of  this 
age.  After  the  disastrous  fire  of  1853,  designs  for  new  buildings,  thoroughly  fire-proof, 
strong,  well-lighted  and  ventilated,  were  at  once  drawn  up,  and  the  present  iron  edifice  on 
Franklin  Square  is  the  result,  buildings,  although  nearly  40  years  old,  that  still  command 
architectural  attention.  A  court-yard  separates  the  front 
from  the  rear  building,  and  in  the  centre  is  a  tower  with  a 
spiral  stairway.  There  are  no  interior  staircases  ;  and  the 
elevator,  furnaces  and  steam-engines  are  in  the  court-yard. 
The  interior  frame-work  of  both  buildings  is  iron,  sup- 
ported on  heavy  brick  piers.  Every  operation  entering 
into  book-making,  except  the  manufacture  of  paper  and 
ink,  is  conducted  on  the  premises  —  type-setting,  electro- 
typing,  designing,  engraving,  press- work,  and  binding,  as  well 
as  the  editorial  work.  The  character  of  the  6,000  books 
of  this  house,  and  of  their  several  periodicals,  is  well-known 
the  world  over.  Harper's  Magazine,  established  in  1850;  NEW  YORK  :  HARPER  *  BROTHERS. 


630  KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

Harper's  Weekly,  in  1857;  Harper's  Bazar,  in  1867,  and  Harper's  Young  People,  in  1879, 
were  deservedly  successful  from  the  beginning.  The  firm  name  remains  the  same  to-day 
that  it  was  58  years  ago.  James,  the  eldest  of  the  original  four  brothers,  died  in  1869, 
aged  74  years;  Joseph  Wesley,  the  third,  died  in  1870,  aged  69;  John,  the  second,  died  in 
1875,  aged  78  years;  and  Fletcher,  the  youngest,  died  in  1877,  aged  71  years.  The  busi- 
ness is  now  carried  on  by  six  members  of  the  second  and  third  generations.  Who  can 
estimate  the  noble  influence  that  the  work  of  the  Harpers  has  exerted,  through  three 
generations,  an  influence  unequalled  by  even  the  foremost  educational  institution! 

The  American  Bank  Note  Company  of  New  York  is  one  of  the  most 
famous  industries  of  the  Nation.  Its  world-wide  renown  has  been  the  result 
of  a  rare  combination  of  the  highest  artistical  and  mechanical  skill  through- 
out a  long  experience,  and  its  standing  to-day  is  unequalled.  The  business 
was  founded  in  1795,  incorporated  in  1858,  and  enlarged  and  re-organized  in 
1879.  The  early  and  wide-spread  use  of  paper-money  rendered  it  imperative 
to  produce  engraved  work  which  could  not  be  counterfeited. 
The  best  artists  competed  in  making  designs,  skilful  chemists 
devised  inks  and  colors  to  be  brilliant  and  ineradicable,  or 
delible  and  sensitive,  and  inventors  applied  the  principles  of 
mechanics  to  intricate  geometrical  engraving.  The  consolida- 
tion of  these  interests  under  the  American  Bank  Note  Com- 
pany united  the  resources  and  reputation,  the  safe-guards  and 
facilities  of  a  century's  experience,  with  abundant  capital  to  test 
new  inventions  and  acquire  new  processes.  It  has  prepared 
securities  to  the  value  of  millions  and  millions  of  dollars,  and 
bank-notes  innumerable,  also  postage  stamps,  bonds,  stocks, 
diplomas,  drafts,  etc.,  not  only  for  the  Government  and  financial 
institutions  of  the  United  States,  but  also  for  Canada  and  the 
West  Indies,  Costa  Rica,  Nicaragua,  Salvador,  Colombia, 
Ecuador,  Peru,  Bolivia,  the  Argentine  Republic,  Uruguay, 
Brazil,  Russia,  Italy,  Greece,  Spain,  England,  Sweden  and  Switzerland.  Besides  its  steel- 
plate  engraving,  the  American  Bank  Note  Company  has  executed  for  railroads  and  various 
corporations  many  of  the  most  notable  specimens  of  letter-press  printing  in  black  and  in 
colors.  The  company  built  and  owns,  close  by  Trinity  Church,  its  commodious  fire-proof 
premises,  covering  ten  city  lots,  the  most  elegant  and  complete  establishment  in  its  line  in 
the  world,  where  the  entire  work  of  engraving  and  printing  is  executed. 

A  department  of  art  in  which  New  York  holds  a  high  rank  is  lithography,  which  has 
been  studied  and  carried  forward  here  with  increasing  skill  for  many  decades.  In  1848 
Napoleon  Sarony  founded  an  industry  in  this  field,  which  afterwards  won  a  high  reputa- 
tion under  the  title  of  Sarony,  Major  &  Knapp.  The  three 
heads  of  this  firm  one  by  one  retired,  and  now  the  business 
is  controlled  by  Joseph  P.  Knapp,  a  son  of  one  of  the 
founders.  The  business  represents  an  investment  of 
$600,000,  including  the  spacious  buildings  on  Park  Place, 
New  York,  where  200  operatives  are  kept  at  work  making 
chromos  and  lithographs  of  all  kinds,  show-bills,  album- 
cards,  chromo-plates  for  books,  and  an  endless  variety  of 
similar  articles.  All  the  most  modern  processes  and  me- 
chanisms are  employed,  with  results  of  surprising  beauty, 
so  that  the  chromo  of  to-day  has  ceased  to  be  a  by-word 
of  reproach,  and  is  one  of  the  most  efficient  and  attractive 
means  of  popularizing  art.  The  Knapp  lithographic  es- 
tablishment is  the  largest  in  the  country  devoted  solely  to  NEW  YORK  :  JOSEPH  P.  KNAPP. 


NEW  YORK  : 
AMERICAN  BANK  NOTE  CO. 


THE  STATE   OF  NEW   YORK. 


631 


lithography,  and  its  patrons  are  chiefly  enormous  concerns  in  all  parts  of  the  Union,  who 
find  here  the  perfection  of  illustrative  work  of  this  character. 

An  attractive  and  interesting  feature  of  Buffalo  is  the  great  lithographic  establishment 
of  Cosack  &  Co.  It  employs  upwards  of  300  persons,  and  occupies  its  own  large  and 
handsome  building  on  Lake- View  Avenue,  100x300  feet.  The  company  dates  from  1864  ; 
and  twelve  years  later  its  renown  was  so  high  that  the  commissioners  of  the  Centennial 
Exposition  entrusted  this  firm  with  the  lithographic  reproduction  of 
the  most  important  exhibits  of  the  Centennial  Exposition,  published  and 
known  as  "Treasures  of  Art,  Industry  and  Manufacture." 
Since  that  time,  Cosack  &  Co.  have  made  such  notable  ad- 
vances in  their  art,  that  when  the  projectors  of 
the  magnificent  work  on  ancient  Egypt,  "Miz- 
raim,"  were  ready  to  place  their  contracts  for 
this  mammoth  work  —  without  doubt  the  greatest 
enterprise  ever  attempted  in  the  annals  of  pub- 
lishing—  it  was  also  entrusted  to  this  firm. 
Americans  and  Europeans  characterize  the  beauty  BUFFALO  :  COSACK  &  co. 

of  the  plates  as  so  far  superior  to  the  "Prisse  d'Avennes,"  "Lepsius,"  "Brugsch  Bey,"  etc., 
issued  under  the  auspices  of  the  German  and  French  Governments,  as  to  completely  over- 
shadow them,  clearly  demonstrating  Cosack  &  Co.'s  standing  among  the  color  printers 
of  the  world.  Their  lithographic  press-room  is  the  largest  and  most  complete  in  America, 
without  the  obstruction  of  a  single  shaft,  post,  belt  or  partition,  the  roof  being  held  up  by 
immense  trusses,  and  the  shafting  and  belting  in  a  tunnel  under  the  floors.  In  addition 
to  the  transaction  of  a  regular  lithographic  business,  and  the  production  of  publications  and 
lithography  for  all  commercial  purposes,  they  also  carry  in  stock  the  largest  and  most  varied 
and  complete  assortment  of  advertizing  specialties  to  be  found  in  the  world.  Herman  Cosack 
and  H.  T.  Koerner  are  lithographers  of  commanding  skill ;  and  the  third  partner,  Charles 
E.  Hayes,  controls  the  business  department  and  the  company's  branches  at  New  York, 
Chicago,  Philadelphia,  Boston,  Hartford,  Cincinnati,  St.  Louis,  Pittsburgh  and  Toronto. 

When  it  is  considered  how  much  use  is  made  of  type-setting  for  newspapers,  periodi- 
cals, books,  and  commercial  work,  it  can  be  readily  understood  that  printing  ranks  among 
the  foremost  of  all  American  industries.  For  a  long  period  there  was  no  important  im- 
provement made  in  the  setting  of  type,  until  the  Linotype  machine  was  invented  —  a  machine 
that  is  likely  to  revolutionize  the  art  of  printing.  The  Linotype  machines  are  manufac- 
tured, sold  and  leased  by  the  Mergenthaler  Printing  Company.  Organized  in  1886,  with  a 
capital  of  $1,000,000,  it  has  large  works  in  Brooklyn,  employing  300  men.  It  is  the  sole 
licensee  of  the  National  Typographic  Company,  which 
has  consolidated  the  interests  of  many  persons  who  have 
been  for  years  developing  methods  to  take  the  place  of 
type-setting.  The  Linotypes  are  already  in  use  by  the 
New- York  Tribune,  Louisville  Courier- Journal,  Provi- 
dence Journal,  and  many  other  newspapers.  They  can 
set  up  9,000  ems  an  hour,  while  a  type-setter  by  hand  will 
average  only  about  1,000  ems.  The  Linotype  dispenses 
with  the  use  of  movable  or  ordinary  type,  and  with  com- 
posing and  distributing  it.  By  the  operation  of  keys  it 
discharges  matrices  and  spaces,  until  the  line  is  com- 
posed. It  is  then  justified,  and  molten  type-metal 
forced  into  a  mold,  making  a  bar,  or  linotype,  of  any  ^  v  ?<***'. 

required  length.      The  linotype  is  then  automatically    '    ^W^fl 
ejected,  and  added  to  the  preceding  series  of  bars,  and 

,  ,  *.  &.  _,  ,.  NEW  YORK  :     MERGENTHALER    PRINTING    CO. 

the  matrices  returned  to  their  magazines.    The  machine  THE  LINOTYPE. 


TOMPKINSVILLE  :      LOUIS    DEJONGE   &    CO. 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

automatically  assembles  the  line,  justifies,  casts  and  dis- 
tributes it.  This  wonderful  typographical  invention  is 
fast  making  its  way  into  printing-offices  throughout 
America  and  England. 

Louis  Dejonge  &  Co.,  whose  main  offices  are  in  New- 
York  City,  are  beyond  all  question  the  foremost  house  in 
America  in  their  special  industry,  which  consists  of  the 
importation  and  manufacture  of  fancy  papers,  leathers, 
bookbinders'  cloth,  box-makers'  pictures,  borders  and 
ornaments,  and  tar  and  pasteboard,  and  the  kindred  sup- 
plies needed  by  bookbinders  and  box-makers.  At  their  extensive  works  at  Tompkinsville, 
on  Staten  Island,  composed  of  several  substantial  buildings,  their  special  products  include 
fine  lithographic  coated  papers  for  color  work ;  plated  and  glazed  surface-coated  papers  in 
all  colors  for  printers  and  paper-box  makers  ;  plain  and  embossed  leather  papers ;  and  also 
lining  papers  for  bookbinders.  In  these  lines  this  is  the  foremost  "and  the  oldest  house  in 
this  country.  The  business  was  established  in  1847  \  and  in  1858  the  factory  began  opera- 
tions. Employment  is  given  to  400  people  ;  the  business  reaching  $2,000,000  a  year.  The 
business  was  carried  on  under  the  name  of  J.  &  L.  Dejonge,  succeeded  in  1868  by  the 
present  firm ;  Louis  Dejonge  still  being  at  its  head,  and  his  associates  being  Charles  F. 
Zentgraf  and  Louis  Dejonge,  Jr. 

At  Ballston  Spa  are  the  paper-mill  offices  of  the  Hon.  George  West,  several  times  a 
member  of  Congress,  and  recognized  as  one 
of  the  most  notable  paper-makers  in 
America.  He  came  from  England  in  1848, 
after  having  served  at  the  paper-trade  about 
a  dozen  years,  as  he  had  been  apprenticed 
in  1837.  Since  1848  he  has  never  been 
out  of  this  industry.  At  first  he  settled  as 
a  journeyman  in  Massachusetts,  where  by 
industry  and  ability  he  obtained  the  appro- 
bation of  his  employers  and  associates,  and 
by  economy  he  managed  to  accumulate 
some  little  means.  Later  he  came  to  New-  BALLSTON  SPA  :  GEORGE  WEST'S  UNION  MILL. 

York  State,  and  in  1862  he  bought  the  Empire  Mills  at  Ballston  Spa.  Since  then  he  has 
acquired  and  still  owns  eight  paper  mills — the  Union,  Island,  Glen,  Eagle,  Pioneer,  Excel- 
sior, Empire,  and  Hadley,  their  total  capacity  being  30  tons  of  paper  a  day,  in  addition  to 
3,000,000  paper  bags.  The  product  is  manilla  paper,  in  all  its  grades,  weights  and 
sizes,  and  in  many  shades.  He  was  the  first  to  introduce  into  the  United  States  a  "Dandy 
Roll,"  for  making  special  water-marked  writing  papers.  His  goods  are  sold  throughout  the 
Union.  At  Ballston  Spa  he  has  been  active  in  public  affairs,  and  is  prominent  in  the  finan- 
cial and  fraternal  institutions.  Here,  too,  is  West's  Spring,  which,  sunk  to  a  depth  of  600 
feet,  pours  forth  a  stream  resembling  the  Saratoga  waters,  but  which  Prof.  Maurice  Perkins 
declares  is  stronger  than  any  of  them,  and  a  very  valuable  mineral  spring. 

The  universally  popular  interest  in  photographic  art,  which  is  so  marked  a  feature  of 
the  present  day,  depends  largely  on  apparatus  and  supplies  devised  or  introduced  by  E.  & 
H.  T.  Anthony  &  Co.,  591  Broadway,  New- York  City,  preeminent  in  all  the  world  as 
manufacturers  and  sellers  of  all  photographic  materials.  The  famous  house  of  E.  &  H.  T. 
Anthony  &  Co.  was  founded  in  1842,  as  a  result  of  the  efforts  of  Edward  Anthony  to  fol- 
low out  the  discovery  made  by  Daguerre.  By  the  year  1850  E.  Anthony  had  become  the 
largest  manufacturer  of  photographic  materials  in  the  world.  Two  years  later  Edward's 
brother,  Henry  T.  Anthony,  entered  the  firm.  In  1870  Col.  Vincent  M.  Wilcox  entered 
the  company,  of  which  he  is  now  president.  W.  H.  Badeau  was  a  partner  from  1865  to 


THE  STA  TE  OF  TfEW  YORK. 


633 


NEW   YORK  : 
E.  4    H.   T.   ANTHONY. 


1875.  E-  and  H.  T.  Anthony  are  both  dead,  but  younger  members 
of  the  family  have  taken  their  places.  The  Anthony  establishment 
ocflipies  all  four  floors  of  a  building  extending  through  from  Broad- 
way to  Mercer  Street,  New  York,  and  has  its  chemical  works  in 
Jersey  City,  and  three  factories  for  the  manufacture  of  cameras  and 
apparatus  at  Brooklyn,  New  York  and  Hoboken.  This  is  the  fore- 
most house  in  America  in  its  supply  of  photographic  chemicals  and 
apparatus,  and  in  the  importation  of  photographic  supplies.  They 
publish  the  well-known  photographic  journal,  Anthonys  Photographic 
Bulletin,  edited  by  Profs.  Charles  F.  Chandler  of  the  School  of 
Mines,  Columbia  College,  and  Arthur  H.  Elliott  of  the  New- York 
College  of  Pharmacy,  as  well  as  the  International  Annual,  and  thirty- 
three  books  on  various  branches  of  photography. 

The  world-renowned  jewelry  house  of  Tiffany  &  Co.  was  founded 
in  1837,  by  Charles  L.  Tiffany,  its  present  head,  mainly  for  the  sale 
of  Chinese  fancy  articles.  In  1844  the  importation  and  manufacture 
of  jewelry  was  added,  followed  seven  years  later  by  the  manufacture  of  silver- ware.  The 
French  Revolution  of  1848  caused  a  great  decline  in  the  price  of  diamonds,  and  the  firm 
then  bought  precious  stones  to  the  extent  of  its  ability,  and 
became,  and  for  the  subsequent  40  years  has  remained,  the 
leading  American  precious-stone  house,  with  most  skilful  dia- 
mond-cutters and  lapidaries.  Among  other  branches  Tiffany 
&  Co.  manufacture  plated  ware,  jewelry,  leather  goods,  station- 
ery, ivory  goods,  clocks  and  cutlery,  employing  1,000  persons. 
The  whole  product  is  sold  at  retail,  and  at  fixed  prices;  dealers 
are  not  supplied.  The  designers  and  makers  of  exquisite  Tiff- 
any jewelry  and  other  articles  are-  all  Americans,  educated 
and  trained  in  this  establishment.  Tiffany  &  Co.  became  a 
corporation  in  1868.  Their  main  six-story  establishment  fronts 
on  Union  Square,  New- York  City.  There  is  no  concern  in  its 
line  in  Europe  or  America,  that  approaches  it;  it  stands  abso- 
lutely beyond  comparison.  It  is  a  store-house  of  gems  and  fine 
art  goods  that  represent  the  highest  skill,  the  most  exquisite 
taste,  and  the  marvelous  ingenuity  of  all  the  world.  It  is  one 
of  the  most  noted  sights  of  this  country,  and  no  one  has  ever  seen  New  York  who  has  not 
visited  the  Tiffany  establishment.  The  first  floor  displays  an  exhibit  of  diamonds  and 
precious  stones  that  can  be  seen  nowhere  else  on  either  continent,  and  a  wonderful  array 
of  jewelry  and  silver  and  silver-plated  ware ;  the  second  floor,  bronzes,  marbles  and  clocks  ; 
the  third  floor,  pottery,  china  and  glassware ;  and  the  fourth,  fifth  and  sixth  floors  are  used 
for  manufacturing.  The  silver- ware  factory,  on  Prince  Street,  and  the  plated-ware  factory, 
at  Newark,  are  two  of  the  most  perfectly  equipped  and  efficient  manufacturing  establish- 
ments in  the  country.  Tiffany  &  Co.  received 
the  most  illustrious  honors  at  the  great  Paris 
Exposition,  where  they  led  the  world  in  jewelry, 
in  silver-ware  and  in  silver-plated  ware. 

The  Ansonia  Clock  Company  is  one  of  the 
preeminent  clock  manufacturers  of  the  world  ; 
and  by  reason  of  its  marvelous  output  in  quanti- 
ty and  quality  of  ingenious  and  elegant  wares  has 
enjoyed  for  many  years  the  increasing  esteem 
of  the  industry  in  which  it  is  so  conspicuous  a 
BROOKLYN  :  ANsomA  CLOCK  COMPANY.  factor.  It  derives  its  name  from  a  bright  little 


NEW   YORK  I     TIFFANY   &    CO. 


ALBANY  :    POST-OFFICE. 


634  KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE   UNITED   STATES. 

Connecticut  town  named  for  Anson  D.  Phelps,  with  which  it  had  affiliations  originally ; 
but  for  years  its  great,  handsome  and  well-equipped  brick  factories  have  been  a  promi- 
nent feature  among  the  industries  of  Brooklyn.  The  clocks  made«fend  sold  by  the  Ansonia 
Company  include  thousands  of  styles  and  patterns,  from  the  little  bee, 
and  a  great  variety  of  chamber  and  kitchen  clocks,  up  to  the  most 
elaborate  and  beautiful  bronze  and  enamelled  iron  time- 
keepers, with  cathedral  gongs,  the  modern  onyx  clocks, 
others  of  French  marble,  and  richly  carved  hall  clocks, 
nearly  nine  feet  high,  in  tall  oak  or  mahogany  cases.  The 
company  also  makes  a  great  variety  of  brass  and  bronze 
clock-sets,  vases,  candelabra,  statuettes,  tableaux,  and  other 
art  objects.  The  Ansonia  Clock  Company's  executive  offi- 
ces are  in  New- York  City,  and  its  products  are  sold  through- 
out the  world. 

About  40  years  ago  was  founded  the  Archer  &  Pancoast  Manufacturing  Company  of 
New  York,  which  stands  at  the  head  of  all  American  manufacturers 
of  fixtures  for  gas  and  electric  lights  ;  separately  for  gas  or  electricity, 
or  combined  for  both.  Even  their  commonest  and  cheapest  fixtures 
have  some  pretensions  to  style  and  combination ;  while  their  higher 
grades  are  veritable  specimens  of  noble  works  of  fine  art,  many 
pieces  being  designed  by  the  most  famous  architects  and  artists,  and 
executed  by  artisans  whose  skill  displays  rare  genius.  Archer  & 
Pancoast's  success  has  come  from  the  production  of  fixtures  having 
artistic  and  appropriate  design  and  finish,  whatever  the  uses  and  what- 
ever the  cost.  Not  only  are  their  fixtures  to  be  found  in 
modest  homes,  but  also  in  palatial  residences  like  Vanderbilt's 
and  Marquand's  of  New  York,  and  Potter  Palmer's  of  Chi- 
cago, and  also  in  great  public  edifices  like  the  Madison-Square 
Garden,  Manhattan  Athletic  Club,  Equitable  Life,  and 
United-States  Trust.  Their  national  character  is  seen  in  the 
fact  that  out  on  the  Pacific  coast  their  work  appears  in  the 
Palace  Hotel ;  in  Indianapolis  in  the  wonderful  Indiana  State 
Capitol,  and  in  Hartford  in  the  exquisite  Connecticut  State 
Capitol.  The  Archer  &  Pancoast  Company,  incorporated  in 
1868,  has  a  paid-up  capital  of  $600,000,  and  employs  500 
workmen.  The  factory  is  a  fine  six-story  brick  building, 
erected  in  1888  and  equipped  with  ingenious  machinery. 
An  interesting  outgrowth  of  the  modern  art  development  of  the  United  States  is  the 
growth  of  the  silver-smith's  art,  which  is  making  thousands  of  pieces  of  beautiful  silverware, 
destined  to  become  the  prized  heirlooms  of  families 
of  the  twentieth  century.  Prominent  among 
the  corporations  carrying  forward  this  artistic  and 
attractive  industry  is  the  Whiting  Manufacturing 
Company,  whose  works  at  New-York  City  employ 
400  men  in  the  fabrication  of  every  article  of  solid 
silver  known  to  the  trade  or  used  by  the  people. 
Their  business  was  founded  many  years  ago,  and 
has  advanced  until  it  now  employs  a  very  large  capi- 
tal. The  artistically  beautiful  products  created  by 
this  company,  and  wrought  out  by  skilled  artisans, 
are  now  to  be  found  all  over  the  world,  sometimes 
in  forms  that  would  have  done  honor  to  Benve-  NEW  YORK  :  WHITING  MANUF 


NEW    YORK  :     ARCHER    &    PANCOAST 
MANUFACTURING   COMPANY. 


NEW  YORK : 
GORHAM  MANUFACTURING  COMPANY. 


THE  STATE  OF  NEW  YORK. 

uto  Cellini,  and  always  affording  keen  delight  to  artistic  and 
appreciative  spirits.  None  of  the  famous  silversmiths  of  Eu- 
rope can  demonstrate  superiority  to  this  widely  known  com- 
pany. The  Whiting  company  has  confined  itself  strictly  to 
pure  solid  silver  goods,  so  that  its  very  familiar  trade-mark 
always  means  the  finest  wares.  Its  factory  is  at  Fourth  Street 
and  Lafayette  Place,  but  its  main  selling  establishment,  whole- 
sale and  retail,  is  on  Union  Square,  New- York  City. 

The  Gorham  Manufacturing  Company  of  Providence, 
(R.  I.),  has  two  grand  warehouses  at  New- York  City,  at 
Broadway  and  Nineteenth  Street  and  9  Maiden  Lane,  where 
they  make  a  rare  display  of  silver  and  silver-plated  ware. 

The  very  attractive  sales-rooms  of  the  Bradley  &  Hubbard 
Manufacturing  Company  are  at  26  Park  Place. 

While  many  business  houses  in  England  date  back  to  the  last  century,  few  in  America 
can  show  an  existence  of  136  years,  like  F.  W.  Devoe  &  Co.,  founded  by  William  Post,  of 
New  York,  in  1755.  Paints  and  colors,  with  their  adjuncts  of  varnishes,  brushes  and  artists' 
materials  are  manufactured  by  this  firm  in  a  high  grade  of  perfection,  formerly  attainable 
only  in  European  centres.  In  1889  F.  W.  Devoe  &  Co.,  received  at  the  Paris  Exposition 
the  only  award,  a  gold  medal,  for  fine  railway  varnishes.  As  this  was  in  competition  with 
all  the  fine  varnish-makers  in  the  world,  the  honor  accorded  to  this  firm  for  excellence  of 
manufacture  stands  out  in  strong  relief.  Colors  of  every  description  are  made  by  F.  W. 

Devoe  &  Co.  in  a  degree  of  purity  and  fineness  at  least 
equal  to  those  of  England  and  France.  In  their  large 
brush-factory  may  be  seen  manufactured  every  de- 
scription of  brush,  from  an  artist's  red  sable  miniature 
to  a  whitewash  head.  A  concern  like  this,  which  em- 
ploys hundreds  of  men,  and  is  managed  with  skill  and 
discretion,  certainly  inspires  confidence  in  the  public. 
From  1794  to  1855  the  shop  was  in  a  small  wooden 
building  at  the  corner  of  Water  and  Fletcher  Streets. 
NEW  YORK:  F.  w.  DEVOE  *  co.  In  l852  Mr.  Devoe  entered  the  firm,  which  now  in- 

cludes also  James  F.  Drummond  and  J.  Seaver  Page.  The  salesrooms  and  offices  are  at 
the  corner  of  Fulton  and  William  Streets,  New  York ;  the  paint-factories,  at  Horatio  and 
Jane  Streets ;  and  the  varnish  and  Japan  works,  at  Newark  (N.  J). 

Liszt,  Wagner,  Berlioz,  Rubinstein  and  numberless  other  celebrated  musicians  and  artists 
have  borne  witness  to  the  unrivaled  qualities  of  the  Steinway  pianos.  They  pronounce  them 
unsurpassed  in  poetic  and  sympathetic  tone,  color,  sonority,  sustaining  power,  and  sparkle 
and  brilliancy  of  tone ;  unsurpassed  in  the  precision,  elasticity  and  power  of  their  action, 
and  beyond  competition  in  their  solidity  of  construction,  general  excellence  of  workmanship 
and  consequent  durability.  Whenever  and  wherever  exhibited  they  have  invariably  received 
the  highest  distinction.  A  first-prize  medal  was  awarded  them  at  the  London  International 
Exhibition,  in  1862.  They  received  the  first  grand 
gold  medal  at  the  Paris  Exposition  Universelle 
in  1867  ;  the  two  highest  awards  at  the  Centen- 
nial Exhibition  in  Philadelphia,  1876  ;  and  first 
premium  and  two  special  diplomas  of  merit  at  the 
Sydney  International  Exhibition  in  1879.  King 
Charles  XV.  of  Sweden,  in  1868,  honored  the 
Steinways  by  decreeing  them  the  grand  national 
gold  medal  with  crown  and  ribbon.  The  Royal 
Academies  of  Arts  and  Sciences  of  Stockholm 


NEW  YORK:  STEINWAY  &  SONS. 


636 


ICING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


Adler  $  Sullivan,  Architects. 


«IEW   YORK  !     MUSIC    HALL. 


and  Berlin,  also  in  1868,  conferred  academical  honors  upon 
members  of  Steinway  &  Sons  for  "remarkable  and  excep- 
tional improvements."  The  Society  of  Fine  Arts  of 
Paris,  in  1867,  awarded  them  an  honorary  prize  medal 
for  "the  excellence  and  the  superiority  of  their 
pianos."  In  1885,  at  the  International  Inven- 
tors' Exhibition  at  London,  they  were  awarded 
the  grand  gold  medal  for  "excellence  of  their 
pianos  and  several  meritorious  and  useful  inven- 
tions," and  at  the  same  time  the  London  Society 
of  Arts  presented  to  them  a  special  gold  medal. 
In  1890  Steinway  &  Sons  were  appointed,  by 
three  separate  Royal  Warrants,  "Piano  Manu- 
facturers to  Her  Majesty  the  Queen  of  England  and  their  Royal  Highnesses  the  Prince  and 
Princess  of  Wales."  Steinway  &  Sons  stand  preeminently  at  the  head  of  the  piano  industry ; 
and  they  lead  the  world  in  the  value  of  their  factory  plants  in  New- York  City,  at  "Stein- 
way," Long  Island,  and  at  Hamburg,  Germany,  and  in  the  universal  reputation  of  their 
pianos. 

The  rapid  development  of  ecclesiastical  art  in  the  United 
States  is  largely  due  to  the  efforts  of  two  brothers,  young  Eng- 
lishmen, who  in  1857  founded  their  business  under  the  firm  name 
of  J.  &  R.  Lamb.  They  were  the  first  to  formulate  in  the  United 
States  the  idea  of  religious  art  as  a  specialty;  and  as  artistic  mis- 
sionaries they  have  replaced  the  bareness  and  ugliness  of  the 
church  interiors  of  those  days  with  harmonious  color  and  sym- 
bolical decoration,  in  wood,  metal,  stone  and  marble.  Their 
industry  has  been  housed  in  the  heart  of  old  Greenwich  Village, 
at  No.  59  Carmine  Street.  This  is  now  lower  New  York.  Car- 
mine Street  is  practically  an  extension  of  Sixth  Avenue  on  the 
south,  and  the  Sixth -Avenue  cars  continue  their  way  down  town 
past  the  door  of  No.  59.  In  their  "works"  they  have  gathered 
together  the  best  art-craftsmen  of  the  Old  World;  German  wood- 
workers, Swiss  carvers,  English  workers  in  metal  and  stained 
glass,  Italian  mosaic-workers  and  embroiderers,  and  French 
repousse-workers  and  engravers.  These  various  nationalities 
work  harmoniously  together,  directed  by  the  Lambs,  and  thus  the  designs  made  under 
American  influence  are  executed  by  the  best  trained  foreign  skill.  Some  of  the  finest  ex- 
amples of  altars,  reredoses,  rood  screens,  pulpits,  eagle  lecterns,  stained-glass  windows, 
mosaics,  and  mural  paintings  have  here  been  created.  When  possible,  the  entire  interior 
of  the  church,  including  the  chancel  and  baptistery,  complete  in  all  details  of  furniture, 
color  and  glass,  have  been  executed,  and  in  this  way  a  unity  and  harmony  have  been 
secured,  impossible  under  any  other  method.  The 
house  in  old  Carmine  Street,  New  York,  receives 
many  visitors  from  all  parts  of  the  country,  because 
it  is  a  museum  of  embroideries  and  tapestries,  carv- 
ing, stained  glass,  and  everything  valued  in  religious 
art.  As  specialists  in  ecclesiastical  art  work,  J.  &  R. 
Lamb  stand  at  the  head  of  the  profession ;  first  in 
business ;  first  in  price ;  and  first  in  patronage. 

The  development  of  optical  instruments  is  one  of 
the  most  beneficent  phases  of  modern  science,  and 
affords  constant  comfort  to  millions  of  people,  besides  LOCKPORT  :  ERIE  CANAL  LOCKS. 


&    R.    LAMB. 


THE  STATE   OF  NEW   YORK. 


637 


ROCHESTER  :     THE    BAUSCH    &    LOMB 
OPTICAL   COMPANY. 


giving  increasing  facilities  for  careful  scientific  research. 
In  Rochester  there  is  a  large  and  handsome  factory,  where 
400  persons  are  employed  in  making  microscopes  and 
their  accessories,  eye-glasses  and  spectacle-lenses,  photo- 
graphic lenses  and  diaphragm  shutters,  telescopes  and 
magnifiers,  and  other  kinds  of  optical  goods,  which  are 
sent  thence  to  all  parts  of  the  world.  This  is  the  famous 
establishment  of  the  Bausch  &  Lomb  Optical  Company, 
founded  in  1853  by  J.  J.  Bausch  (now  its  president), 
and  honored  with  many  medals  and  diplomas  at  the 
world's  great  expositions.  Their  products  are  made  by 

^^^^  the  aid  of  a  variety  of  delicate  and  ingenious  machinery, 

covered  by  specific  patents,  and  perfectly  adapted  to  the  grinding  of  the  glasses,  the  prep- 
aration of  the  mountings,  and  other  interesting  processes.  The  company  has  a  well- 
equipped  branch  office  in  New- York  City.  The  Bausch  &  Lomb  establishment  may  be 
considered  a  semi-public  scientific  institution,  wherein  the  results  of  the  most  efficient 
scientific  and  mechanical  experiments  and  study  are  given  to  the  public  in  the  way  of  optical 
goods  of  a  peculiarly  high  grade,  the  products  ranking  on  an  equality  with  the  best  of 
makers  in  the  olden  lands.  As  a  general  optical  establishment  it  stands  foremost  of  all  in 
this  country.  Its  products,  while  adapted  to  the  requirements  of  individual  use,  go  largely 
into  the  laboratories  of  the  many  educational  institutions,  where  they  are  an  important  factor 
in  the  educational  system,  and  are  also  used  for  scientific  research  in  the  various  depart- 
ments of  the  United-States  Government. 

A  singularly  interesting  industry  of  Troy  is  the  manufacture  of  instruments  for  engi- 
neers and  surveyors,  which  was  founded  here  by  Julius  Hanks,  in  1825.  On  the  site  of  his 
quaint  old  two-gabled  building  now  stands  the  large  manufactory  of  W.  &  L.  E.  Gurley,  of 
Troy,  devoted  to  the  same  business,  and  successfully  conducted  by  two  college-bred 
brothers,  one  of  whom  entered  the  Hanks  establishment  in  1840.  The  yearly  product  is  over 
$200,000,  far  exceeding  the  output  of  any  similar  concern  in  America.  There  is  not  a 
State  or  Territory  in  which  the  Gurley  instruments  are  not  used ;  and  great  numbers  of  them 
have  been  exported  to  Mexico,  Cuba,  South  America 
and  Canada,  and  to  such  remote  countries  as  Egypt, 
Syria,  Arabia,  China  and  Japan.  The  engraving  and 
graduating  machinery  is  of  exquisite  delicacy  and  pre- 
cision ;  and  platinum  wire  is  made  here  of  such  ex- 
ceeding fineness  that  a  thread  of  it  long  enough  to 
encircle  the  earth  could  be  coiled  inside  a  thimble. 
The  work -shops  in  this  factory  are  particularly  worthy 
of  mention  as  models  in  their  line ;  the  whole  being 
filled  with  ingenious  machinery,  admirably  arranged, 
and  the  workmen  bearing  evidence  of  intelligence  and  TROY  :  w-  *  L-  E-  GURLEY. 

masterly  skill.  The  names  of  William  Gurley  and  Lewis  E.  Gurley  are  also  identified  with 
a  number  of  Troy's  institutions. 

America  has  in  various  ways  surpassed  all  other  countries.  One  of  the  finest  types  of 
this  supremacy  is  shown  in  the  marvelous  wholesale  dry-goods  house  of  the  H.  B.  Claflin 
Co.,  of  New  York,  whose  sales  for  a  score  of  years  have  exceeded  in  amount  those  of  any 
other  mercantile  house  in  the  whole  world.  In  the  present  the  sales  amount  to  almost 
$50,000,000;  the  whole  amount  being  exclusively  in  strictly  wholesale  dry -goods.  The 
founder  of  this  house  was  the  late  Horace  B.  Claflin,  who  began  in  New  York  in  1843,  and 
died  in  1885,  leaving  an  unblemished  record  for  business  integrity  and  ability.  The  capital 
stock  of  the  company  is  $9,000,000;  the  subscription  to  which,  in  1890,  was  one  of 
the  most  marked  evidences  of  esteem,  there  being  over  $21,000,000  subscribed  for  the 


638  KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE   UNITED   STATES. 

$3,000,000  offered  to  the  public.  The  premises 
occupied  comprise  one  of  the  largest  business  houses 
in  the  country,  and  are  valued  at  upwards  of 
$2,000,000.  When  they  were  built,  they  surpassed 
every  building  erected  for  the  wholesale  dry-goods 
trade,  and  to-day  they  fairly  rival  all  that  have  since 
been  built ;  the  frontage  on  Worth  Street  alone  being 
375  feet.  The  estimated  net  profits  of  the  business 
are  about  $1,000,000  a  year.  The  active  head  of 
this  gigantic  concern  is  the  founder's  eldest  son, 
John  Claflin,  who  holds  the  office  of  President  of 
the  company. 

The  commercial  importance  of  the  fur-trade  to 
New- York  City  has  steadily  increased  since  early  in  NEW  YORK  :    THE  H-  B-  CLAFLIN  COMPANY. 

the  present  century,  when  the  industry  was  founded  by  such  pioneers  as  John  Jacob  Astor, 
Carson  Brevoort,  Ramsay  Crooks,  Christian  G.  Gunther  and  John  G.  Wendel.  As  far 
back  as  1820  Christian  G.  Gunther  founded,  in  Maiden  Lane,  New- York 
City,  the  business  now  carried  on  under  the  name  of  C.  G.  Gunther's 
Sons,  which  was  for  years  a  notable  landmark,  and  which  now,  after  a 
lapse  of  nearly  three  quarters  of  a  century,  is  one  of  the  monuments  of 
the  city's  commercial  enterprise  and  success.  The  sign  of  the  "White 
Polar  Bear,"  so  familiar  to  many  old  New-Yorkers,  and  famous  in  itself 
as  the  work  of  Launitz,  the  first  American  sculptor,  was  moved  from 
BfBil  the  old  Maiden-Lane  stand  in  1866  to  502  and  504  Broadway,  and  again 
in  1876  to  184  Fifth  Avenue,  the  present  location  of  the  firm.  The 
business  has  been  carried  on  in  a  direct  line  of  succession,  and  is  now  in 
the  hands  of  the  third  generation,  the  grandsons  of  the  founder.  The 
house  stands  foremost  in  the  trade,  not  only  as  the  oldest  of  its  kind  in 
the  United  States,  but  in  the  volume  of  business  transacted.  Its  patrons 
include  the  leading  people,  not  only  of  New- York  City,  but  of  every 
section  of  the  country  where  furs  are  in  vogue,  and  they  never  fail  to 
find  at  the  handsome  warerooms  of  this  establishment  an  incomparable 
assortment  of  manufactured  furs,  in  most  instances  the  original  concep- 
tions of  this  leading  house,  and  invariably  designed  to  conform  to  the 
latest  decrees  of  fashion. 
The  crown  and  culmination  of  a  gentleman's  apparel  is  his  hat ;  and  the  originator  and 
leader  of  styles  in  this  country  is  the  firm  of  R.  Dunlap  &  Co. ,  whose  main  retail  store  is 
at  178-180  Fifth  Avenue,  close  to  the  Fifth- Avenue  Hotel,  with  an  elegant  store  at  181 
Broadway,  and  an  enormous  hat  factory  in  Brooklyn.  Robert  Dunlap  founded  this  busi- 
ness in  1857,  and  is  the  only  partner.  The  Dunlap  products  have  won  medals  at  the 
Philadelphia,  Paris  and  other  expositions,  and  in- 
clude a  full  and  complete  line  of  silk,  felt,  straw 
and  opera  hats  for  gentlemen,  all  of  the  finest  grades 
and  latest  styles,  besides  a  variety  of  jaunty  and 
fashionable  hats  for  ladies.  The  factory  at  Brook- 
lyn employs  700  persons,  their  yearly  pay-roll 
reaching  $500,000,  and  is  the  most  complete  estab- 
lishment of  its  kind  in  this  country.  It  also  main- 
tains large  retail  stores  in  Philadelphia  and  Chica- 
go, and  has  agents  in  all  the  other  principal  cities. 
A  "Dunlap  hat"  is  a  standard  staple  commodity, 
and  is  to  be  found  in  every  town  in  the  United  States  where  a  respectable  hat  store  is  kept. 


GUNTHER'S   SONS. 


DUNLAP  &  CO. 


COHOES  :     TIVOLI    HOSIERY    MILLS. 


THE  STATE   OF  NEW  YORK.  639 

The  busy  city  of  Cohoes,  on  the  Mohawk 
River,  near  its  confluence  with  the  Hudson, 
turns  out  over  $10,000,000  worth  of  manufac- 
tured goods  every  year ;  and  is  famous  for  an 
immense  output  of  hosiery  and  underwear.  In 
1 85  5  a  factory  for  making  underwear  was  founded 
here  by  J.  G.  Root,  who  admitted  his  sons  A. 
J.  and  S.  G.  Root  to  partnership,  in  1860,  and 
afterwards  retired  himself.  The  business  was 
incorporated  in  1875  as  tne  R°°t  Manufacturing 
Co.,  of  which  A.  J.  Root  is  president.  It  owns 
and  occupies  the  three  four-story  brick  buildings  known  as  the  Tivoli  Hosiery  Mills,  admir- 
ably equipped  with  all  kinds  of  modern  machinery,  and  employing  550  operatives.  The 
Root  Manufacturing  Co.  manufactures  extensively  the  famous  "Standard"  knit  underwear, 
making  a  specialty  of  ladies',  gentlemen's,  boys'  and  children's  fine  white-wool,  scarlet, 
camels'  hair,  natural  and  white  merino  underwear,  which  is  unrivalled  for  quality,  finish, 
durability  and  uniform  excellence,  and  has  no  superior  in  the  European  or  American 
markets,  while  the  prices  quoted  in  all  cases  necessarily  at- 
tract the  attention  of  prudent  and  careful  buyers.  The 
resources  and  facilities  of  the  company  are  so  complete  and 
extensive,  that  the  largest  orders  can  be  promptly  filled,  an 
advantage  that  the  trade  is  quick  to  appreciate.  The  trade 
extends  throughout  all  sections  of  the  United  States  and 
Canada,  and  is  speedily  increasing,  owing  to  the  superiority 
and  reliability  of  its  standard  knit  underwear.  The  influence 
exercised  by  this  company  in  the  manufacture  of  underwear 
has  been  of  the  most  salutary  and  useful  character.  While  the 
corporation  is  the  Root  Manufacturing  Company,  the  mills 
are  known  as  the  ' '  Tivoli  Hosiery  Mills. "  The  selling  agents 
are  William  Iselin  &  Co.,  339  Canal  Street,  New- York  City. 
New  York  has  naturally  the  commanding  position  as  a 
distributing  point  for  all  manner  of  head-coverings  for  the 
65,000,000  of  American  people,  and  there,  too,  as  a 'natural  outcome  of  this  position  has 
developed  the  one  great  house  —  C.  H.  Tenney  &  Company  —  that  leads  the  world  in  the 
handling  of  hats.  In  1867  Charles  H.  Tenney  founded  the  house,  as  commission-merchants 
in  fur,  wool  and  straw  hats,  and  he  (being  still  the  only  partner)  handles  the  product  of  40 
manufacturers  of  New  England  and  the  Middle  States.  This  group  of  factories  employs 
5,000  persons  and  their  yearly  products  exceed  $5,000,000  in  value.  The  Tenney  establish- 
ment at  610-614  Broadway  has  nearly  three  acres  of  floor- 
ing, and  is  the  largest  of  the  kind  in  the  world.  The  trade 
centering  here  reaches  the  remotest  parts  of  the  Republic, 
supplying  hats  of  all  kinds,  for  all  seasons  and  uses. 

The  wholesale  grocery  house  of  the  Thurber-Whyland 
Company  was  established  in  New- York  City,  in  1857,  by 
H.  K.  Thurber  and  John  F.  Pupke,  and,  after  several 
changes  in  the  personnel  of  the  partners  constituting  the 
house,  it  was  incorporated  under  the  above  title,  January 
3,  1891,  with  a  capital  of  $3,000,000.  It  does  the  largest 
business  in  food  products  in  the  world,  comprising  every- 
thing that  is  eaten  or  drunk.  Its  trade  extends  throughout 
the  United  States  and  to  every  civilized  country  of  the 
NEW  YORK  :  c.  H.  TENNEY  4  co.  world,  a  result  which  has  been  attained  by  the  reliable 


NEW  YORK:   MASONIC  TEMPLE. 


N 


640 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE    UNITED   STATES. 


NEW  YORK:    THURBEK-WHYLAND    CO. 


quality  of  the  goods  manufactured  and  dealt  in,  and  by  honor- 
able dealing.  The  incorporation  of  the  Thurber-Whyland 
Company  is  in  keeping  with  an  apparent  tendency  of  the  times 
for  all  large  establishments  to  assume  a  corporate  form,  as  being 
preferable  to  individual  partnerships,  which  are  subject  to 
frequent  changes  through  death  and  other  causes. 

One  of  the  most  important  industries  located  on  the  Brook- 
lyn water-front  of  New- York  harbor  is  the  extensive  roasting  es- 
tablishment of  Arbuckle  Bros.  Coffee  Company.  Their  large 
factories  form  one  of  the  familiar  sights  from  the  Brooklyn 
Bridge,  and  illustrate  the  great  demand  for  the  Arbuckle  coffee. 
Thousands  of  car-loads  of  this  coffee  are  annually  shipped  all 
over  this  great  country,  and  the  demand  and  popularity  of  the  article  are  still  constantly  in- 
creasing, and  taxing  even  the  exceptional  facilities  which  the  Arbuckles  have  for  handling 
their  product.  Almost  any  day  you  may  see  large  ocean  steamships  unloading  at  their  docks 
cargoes  of  green  coffee,  imported  direct  through  their  branch  houses  or  agents  established  in 
the  coffee-growing  countries  of  the  world.  Across  the  same  dock  you  may  see  trains  of  freight 
cars,  on  floats,  being  loaded  with  cases  of  coffee  brought  to  them  from  the  mills  by  machinery. 
The  mills  themselves  are,  by  far,  the  largest  in  the  world,  and  are  thoroughly  equipped 
with  all  the  latest  improvements  and  machinery  for  properly  and  economically  doing  their 
work.  The  Arbuckles  have  always  stood  for  purity  in  coffees.  They  started  out  with  this  idea, 

and  have  always  rigidly  adhered  to 
it,  and  now  see  the  reward  in  the 
largest  coffee  business  in  the  world. 
The  firm  of  John  Dwight  &  Co. , 
of  New  York,  which  began  business 
and  the  manufacture  of  bi-carbonate 
of  soda  and  saleratus  in  1847,  was 
the  result  of  the  belief  that  these 
products  could  be  manufactured 
better  by  improved  original  methods 
than  was  then  being  done  in  Eng- 
land, where  the  entire  supply  for  this 
country  was  at  that  time  obtained. 
The  results  of  the  experiments  then  tried,  proved  eminently  satisfactory,  and  the  birth,  in 
America,  of  a  new  industry  was  an  accomplished  fact.  From  a  very  small  beginning,  the 
business  has  grown,  until  the  factory  and  its  appurtenances  cover  3^  acres  of  ground,  in 
the  heart  of  the  city  of  New  York.  The  firm  attributes  its  success  principally  to  the 
superior  quality  of  the  products  of  its  manufacture.  It  has  been  their  constant  endeavor 
to  make  the  Cow  brand  of  soda  and  saleratus  preeminent.  The  magnitude  of  the  business 
done,  and  the  character  of  the  trade  supplied,  will  bear  ample  testimony  to  what  degree 
of  success  they  have  attained,  the  goods  of  John  Dwight  &  Co.  being  found  everywhere 
from  Maine  to  California,  in  general  and  favorite  use  among  the  households  of  America. 

The  name  of  E.  R.  Durkee  &  Co.  has  become 
synonymous  with  reliable  food  products,  fine  spices, 
salad  dressing  and  kindred  appetizing  condiments, 
throughout  the  United  States.  This  unique  in- 
dustry was  founded  in  1850  by  E.  R.  Durkee,  and 
it  has  developed  into  the  largest  business  of  its  kind 
in  this  country.  The  house  employs  several  hun- 
dred hands,  and  has  its  office,  laboratory  and 
warehouses  in  New  York,  with  extensive  ware- 


BROOKLYN  :  ARBUCKLE  BROS.  COFFEE  CO. 


THE  STATE   OF  NEW   YORK.  64I 

houses  and  mills  in  Brooklyn,  fully  equipped  with  all  the  latest  improved  machinery  and 
appliances  necessary  for  the  successful  prosecution  of  their  business.  They  import  large 
quantities  of  whole  spices,  cereals,  etc.,  from  all  parts  of  the  globe,  which  (ground  and  un- 
ground)  are  put  up  by  ingenious  and  private  methods,  invented  and  controlled  by  the  firm, 
in  sealed  packets  of  very  attractive  style  and  convenient  sizes.  Their  dressings  for  salads 
and  cold  meats  are  made  in  great  quantities, 
under  their  personal  supervision  ;  and  their 
salad  dressing,  mustards,  spices,  extracts, 
come  famous,  but  are  the  acknowledged 
lence,  and  may  be  found  in  every  first-class 
eery  in  the  United  States  and  Canada. 

Just  west  of  the  business-heart  of  New- 
river-front,  is  the  great  factory  of  Sapolio, 


by  careful  processes 
"  Gauntlet  Brands  "  of 
etc.,  have  not  only  be- 
standards  of  excel  - 
jobbing  and  retail  gro- 

York  City,  near  the 
one  of  America's  most 


NEW  YORK  :    E.  R.  DURKEE  &  CO. 


famous  products  ;  a  fame  built  up  by  rare  enterprise. 
Sapolio,  in  its  silver  wrapper  and  blue  band,  is  seen 
in  almost  every  household.  It  has  saved  to  the 
toilers  of  the  world  an  amount  of  labor  beyond  all 
computation,  has  gained  a  substantial  foothold  among 
the  masses  of  the  people  of  all  civilized  countries, 
and  brought  renown  and  wealth  to  its  proprietors, 
the  well-known  house  of  Enoch  Morgan's  Sons  Co. 
The  business  was  established  originally  as  soap  and 
candle  manufacturers  in  1809,  by  the  family  of  Enoch 
Morgan.  In  1869  Sapolio  was  first  introduced,  and 
in  no  country  has  there  ever  been  produced  an  article 
for  general  house-cleaning  purposes  that  has  met  with  anything  like  its  success,  a  part  of 
which  is  due  to  its  exceptionally  able  advertising,  the  cost  of  which  in  a  single  year  has 
amounted  to  over  $30x3,000.  Like  all  successful  productions,  Sapolio  has  had  many  imita- 
tions, but  it  has  maintained  its  rights  in  the  courts  with  a  courage 
that  not  only  deserved,  but  secured,  success,  and  its  trade-mark 
cases  are  quoted  as  precedents  in  almost  every  suit  against  in- 
fringers  of  trade-mark  rights. 

Rochester  has  a  world-wide  fame  for  its  nurseries  and  seed- 
houses,  sending  out  trees  and  plants  by  the  million,  and  a  limit- 
less quantity  and  endless  variety  of  seeds,  5,000  people  being  en- 
gaged in  this  work,  which  also  has  several  magazines. 

Troy  manufactures  enormous  numbers  of  stoves,  and  also 
both  makes  and  launders  millions  upon  millions  of  linen  collars 
and  cuffs. 

Binghamton  is  the  third  city  in  the  United  States  in  the  cigar-making  industry. 
Brooklyn  has  the  leading  sugar-refineries  of  the  Union,  and  a  vast  number  of  other 
manufactures. 

Gloversviile  and  Johnstown  produce  gloves  and  mittens,  in  every  variety,  and  of  many 
materials. 

Oswego  has  the  largest  starch -factory  in  the  world  covering  five  acres  of  ground,  and 
employing  over  1,000  operatives. 

Among  other  interesting  products  are  the  peppermint-oil  of  Lyons,  cheese  of  Little 
Falls,  whips  of  Windsor,  condensed  milk  of  Amenia.  toys  of  Walton  and  Waverly,  type- 
writers of  Ilion,  rakes  of  Canastota,  ultramarine  of  Tottenville,  straw-paper  of  Chatham, 
tinners'  tools  of  Tarrytown,  pails  of  Clifton  Springs,  fire-engines  of  Seneca  Falls,  piano- 
stools  of  Dobb's  Ferry,  locomotives  of  Schenectady  and  Dunkirk,  air-guns  of  Herkimer, 
and  oil-cloth  of  Newtown. 


NEW  YORK : 
ENOCH  MORGAN'S  SONS  CO. 


642 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


ROCHESTER  :    THE  JAMES  CUNNINGHAM,  SON  &  CO. 


The  largest  manufactory  of  exclusively  fine  vehicles,  comprising  landaus,  broughams, 
coupes,  victorias,  Berlin  coaches,  and  others,  and  mortuary  vehicles,  consisting  of  hearses 
and  wagons,  in  the  country,  is  the  James  Cunningham,  Son  &  Co.  Their  work  is  all  done 
at  the  huge  factories  of  the  company,  in  all  its  detail.  The  styles  are  the  very  latest,  and 
the  workmen  are  experienced  operators.  The  Cunningham  vehicles  are  very  widely  known, 
and  distributed  through  their  branch  offices  at  New  York,  Chicago  and  St.  Louis.  The 

business  has  been  carried  on  for  a  period  of  over 
50  years  by  James  Cunningham  and  his  son. 
About  eight  years  ago  the  firm  was  converted  into 
a  stock  company,  with  a  capital  of  $803,000,  to 
which  is  added  a  surplus  of  an  equal  amount,  and, 
although  nominally  a  great  stock  corporation,  with 
more  than  a  million  and  a  half  invested,  and  doing 
business  over  the  whole  Union,  it  is  nevertheless 
practically  a  great  family  partnership  of  an  ex- 
ceptionally successful  character.  The  works  are  located  at  Rochester,  and  are  very  large 
and  extensive  brick  buildings,  five,  six  and  seven  stories  high.  There  are  600  men  employed 
the  whole  year  round.  The  specialty  of  the  company  is  high-grade  vehicles. 

The  bright  and  active  city  of  Syracuse  has  numerous  lucrative  successful  industrial 
enterprises,  one  of  the  strongest  and  oldest  of  which  is  the  Syracuse  branch  of  the  Whitman 
&  Barnes  Manufacturing  Co.  The  spacious  and  handsome  factory  covers  a  square  of 
ground,  and  is  thoroughly  equipped  with  all  the  complicated,  powerful  and  ingenious  ma- 
chinery necessary  for  the  conduct  of  the  work.  Prominent  among  its  output  is  an  almost 
infinite  variety  of  mower-knives  and  reaper  sickles,  whose  excellence  is  known  to  the  farmers 
of  many  States.  The  company  also  manufactures  spring-keys,  and  many  other  articles 
of  similar  character.  Besides  the  Syracuse  fac-  ^j^v' 

tory,  it  has  works  at  Akron  and  Canton  (Ohio), 
and  St.  Catherine's  (Ontario).  The  president  of  the 
company  is  Hon.  A.  L.  Conger ;  and  George 
Barnes  is  chairman. 

Kitchen-ware  is  now  of  so  varied  a  description 
that  many  pages  would  be  required  to  properly  de- 
scribe it.  Back  200  years,  earthen-ware  was  made 
in  New  York.  To  glaze  this  the  most  primitive 
methods  were  adopted.  After  earthen -ware  came 
porcelain,  and  that  has  been  the  housewife's  pride 
for  a  long  time  back.  Great  care,  however,  had  to 
be  taken  of  the  porcelain-lined  kettles,  and  their  liability  to  crack  made  them  a  source  of  anx- 
iety to  the  housewife.  Manufacturers  and  dealers  began  to  look  about  for  a  substitute.  This 
was  finally  arrived  at  in  the  advent  of  stamped  metal  ware.  Sheet  metal  was  pounded  and 
stamped  by  dies  of  great  power  into  kettles,  pots  and  pans.  As  there  was  a  complaint 
that  these  tasted  "tinny,"  and  would  rust  and  get  easily  bruised,  the  popular  favor  sought 
better  wares,  and  perfection  was  found  in  the  "Agate  Iron  Ware."  The  Lalance  &  Gros- 

jean  Company  was  one  of  the  five  great  companies 
that  consolidated  the  tinware  departments  into  the 
Central  Stamping  Company,  and  it  is  thus  enabled 
to  devote  itself  exclusively  to  the  "agate  iron 
wares,"  which  is  a  stamped  iron  with  a  porcelain- 
like  coating,  in  high  glaze,  and  decorated  in  imita- 
tion of  marble  or  stone.  By  this  means,  with  iron 
as  a  base,  the  ware  is  durable,  non-dentable,  un- 
breakable and  inexpensive ;  and  by  reason  of  the 


SYRACUSE  :    WHITMAN  &    BARNES  CO. 


WOODHAVEN  :    LALANCE  &   GROSJEAN   MFG.  CO. 


THE  STATE   OF  NEW   YORK.  643 

handsome  and  always  polished  finish  is  a  thing  of  beauty  and  cleanliness.  This  was  manu- 
factured by  the  Lalance  &  Grosjean  Manufacturing  Co.,  a  company  operated  at  Woodhaven, 
N.  Y.,  with  $2,500,000  capital.  This  company  were  one  of  the  pioneers  in  stamped  ware, 
having  begun  its  manufacture  in  1850.  Their  plant  covers  15  acres,  and  they  give  employ- 
ment to  1,500  hands.  They  have  received  awards  at  expositions  all  over  the  world,  and  in 
the  line  of  stamped  ware  and  agate  ware  rank  pre-eminent. 

Until  1853  the  work  of  harvesting  grain  was  done  by  hand.  It  was  a  slow  and  waste- 
ful way.  At  that  time  Walter  A.  Wood,  an  ingenious  young  mechanic,  began  experiment- 
ing with  harvesting  machines.  It  was  then  an  open  question  if  such  machines  were 
practical ;  but  his  bold  pioneer  work  has  resulted  in  the  Walter  A.  Wood  Mowing  &  Reap- 
ing Machine  Co.,  one  of  the  largest  in  the  world.  He  is  its  active  president.  The  com- 
pany has  40  offices,  eight  of  them  in  Europe,  four  in  South  America,  five  in  Australia.  The 
plant  at  Hoosick  Falls,  N.  Y.,  covers  85  acres,  including  freight-houses  and  tracks.  The 
company  owns  and  operates  two  locomotives  and  a  large  number  of  cars  on  its  own  premises. 
In  their  employ  are  many  thousand  people.  Their  specialty  is  the  manufacture  of  machines 
for  mowing  hay  and  for  reaping  and  binding  grain.  During  the  company's  career  over 
850,000  of  them  have  been  sold.  They  have  taken  twelve  highest  prizes  at  International 
expositions,  and  over  1,250  first  premiums  at  State  fairs  and  field  contests.  The  machines 
are  used  in  all  civilized  regions,  except  Asia ;  and  even  there  they  have  a  foothold.  The  Wal- 
ter A.  Wood  Mowing  &  Reaping  Machine  Co.  is  one  of  the  gigantic  industries  of  America. 


HOOSICK  FALLS  :    WALTER  A.  WOOD  MOWING  &  REAPING  MACHINE  CO. 

The  manufacturing  establishment  of  Pratt  &  Letch  worth,  organized  in  the  year  1848,  is 
one  of  the  notable  institutions  bf  the  city  of  Buffalo.  It  is,  indeed,  one  of  the  notable  in- 
dustries of  the  whole  State  of  New  York.  It  was  the  first  house  to  manufacture  a  complete 
line  of  carriage  malleable  iron.  Commencing  first  in  importing  saddlery  hardware  from 
England,  it  gradually  developed  into  manufacturing  the  same  articles  itself,  giving  close  at- 
tention to  the  special  and  patented  articles,  of 
which  it  has  introduced,  in  the  way  of  valuable 
patents,  more  than  any  other  saddlery  hard- 
ware concern  in  the  country.  The  company 
employs  over  1, 100  people  in  the  manufacture 
of  malleable  iron,  steel  castings,  saddlery  hard- 
ware, wood  hames  and  iron  toys.  Of  these 
combined  lines  it  is  the  largest  manufactory  in 
the  country,  with  a  trade  extending  from  the  BUFFALO  :  PRATT  &  LETCHWORTH. 


644 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED  STATES. 


Atlantic  to  the  Pacific,  and  an  extensive  export  trade  to  South  America  and  Australia,  and  to 
a  limited  extent  to  the  Continent  of  Europe.  An  interesting  feature  in  connection  with  the 
house  is,  that  during  its  entire  history  it  has  never  had  any  trouble  whatever  with  its  em- 
ploye's in  the  shape  of  strikes  and  lockouts.  It  has  a  free  library  for  the  use  of  its  employes. 
The  group  of  factory  buildings  form  a  picturesque  industrial  establishment,  where  solidity, 
neatness,  admirable  arrangement  and  complete  equipment  are  everywhere  noticeable. 

Stove-making  is  one  of  the  _  .:-—••• :.r:     ....,,:^~  -----  •-• 

chief  industries  of  the  region 
of  Troy  and  Albany,  whose 
products  are  exported  to  Eu- 
rope, Australia,  South  and  Cen- 
tral America  and  Mexico  in 
vast  quantities.  The  business 
began  at  Troy  in  1821,  and 
the  value  of  the  stoves  made 
there  yearly  is  nearly  $3,000,- 
ooo.  The  chief  firm  is  the  Ful- 
ler &  Warren  Co.,  whose  Clin-  TROY  :  THE  FULLER  *  WARREN  co- 
ton  Stove  Works,  comprising  a  group  of  fine  brick  buildings,  cover  six  acres  and  employ 
1,200  men,  with  a  yearly  out-put  of  60,000  stoves.  They  occupy  the  same  ground  taken 
at  the  foundation  of  the  firm,  in  1836.  From  their  six  large  American  agencies,  the  pro- 
ducts of  these  works  are  distributed  to  all  parts  of  the  United  States;  and  extensive 
shipments  are  continually  made  to  distant  countries.  No  work  of  the  kind  surpasses  theirs  in 
scientific  excellence  of  construction,  beauty  of  design  and  perfection  of  casting,  results  due  to 
the  enterprise  of  the  manufacturers  and  the  disciplined  skill  of  the  operatives.  The  unap- 
proachable merit  of  their  castings  and  designs  has  made  Fuller  &  Warren  familiar  wherever 
stoves  are  needed  to  cook  the  food  of  civilized  man,  or  to  shield  him  from  the  rigors  of  winter. 
The  New  York  Anderson  Pressed  Brick  Company  was  organized  in  1887  to  manufacture 

the  well-known  Anderson  pressed,  face,  shape 
and  ornamental  brick,  under  a  license  from 
J.  C.  Anderson,  patentee,  for  the  States  of  Con- 
necticut and  New  Jersey,  and  that  part  of  the 
State  of  New  York  lying  east  of  the  meridian 
of  Washington,  D.  C.  Their  immense  works, 
of  which  the  engraving  will  give  an  idea,  are 
located  at  Kreischerville,  Staten  Island,  on  the 
shore  of  Staten-Island  Sound.  The  product 
of  this  company  has  achieved  the  highest 
reputation  in  New  York  for  uniform  excellence  and  beauty.  Their  buffs,  grays,  garnet,  old 
gold,  mottled,  brown,  red,  rock-faced,  etc.,  are  largely  used  in  the  best  class  of  buildings 
in  New  York,  Brooklyn  and  other  eastern  cities.  The  company  are  the  owners  of  beds  of 
the  rarest  varieties  of  clay  in  this  country,  which  en- 
ables them  to  meet  the  most  artistic  requirements,  a 
fact  the  New- York  architects  were  not  slow  in  discov- 
ering. Mr.  Anderson's  now  celebrated  system  of  burn- 
ing on  cars  was  first  put  into  practical  use  by  this  com- 
pany. Their  office  is  at  132  Mangin  Street,  New  York. 
The  American  Biscuit  and  Manufacturing  Com- 
pany has  a  very  large  plant  at  New  York.  Here,  also, 
is  the  headquarters  of  Belding  Bros.  &  Co.,  the  silk 
manufacturers,  who  have  large  and  prosperous  mills  in 
Connecticut,  Massachusetts,  Michigan  and  California. 


STATEN  ISLAND  :    NEW-YORK  ANDERSON    PRESSED   BRICK  CO. 


NEW  YORK  :    AMERICAN  BISCUIT  AND  MFG.    CO. 


HISTORY. 

The  earliest  inhabitants 
of  North  Carolina  were  the 
Mound-Builders,  dwelling  in 
the  deep  valley  between  the 
Blue  Ridge  and  the  Alle- 
ghanies.  They  were  annihi- 
lated by  the  fierce  Muscogees, 
who,  in  turn,  gave  way,  after 
an  exterminating  war,  to  the 
Cherokees.  This  great  tribe,  with  its  60  towns  and  6,000 
warriors,  joined  the  British  in  fighting  the  French,  and 
afterwards  in  harassing  the  American  colonists.  After  many 
a  wild  foray,  they  were  confined  to  the  valleys,  southwest 
of  the  Balsam  Mountains.  In  1835  a  part  of  the  tribe 
sold  its  Carolina  domain,  and  moved  beyond  the  Missis- 
sippi. Many  Cherokees  remained  hidden  amid  their  native 
mountains  ;  and  four  companies  of  them  enlisted  in  the  Con- 
federate army,  while  others  joined  the  Union  Tennessee  regi- 
ments. .About  1, 200  now  dwell  on  the  Qualla  Reserve,  south 
of  the  Balsam  Range,  forming  a  scattered  community  of 
farmers,  educated  in  English  as  well  as  Cherokee,  and 
governed  by  a  salaried  chief  (elected  every  four  years),  and 
a  council,  whose  seat  is  at  Elawati  (Yellow  Hill).  .No  one 
can  hold  office  who  has  helped  defraud  the  tribe,  or  denies 
the  existence  of  God,  or  disbelieves  in  Heaven  and  Hell. 
This  Eastern  band  of  Cherokees  numbers  2,885,  mainly 
full-bloods.  They  have  five  day-schools,  and  a  training- 
school  conducted  by  Friends.  They  also  enjoy  the  privilege 
of  voting,  and  are  Republican  almost  to  a  man.  The 
Tocheeostee  ("Racing  River")  of  the  Cherokees  became 
known  as  the  French  Broad.  Swannanoa  perpetuates  the 
sound  of  its  multitudinous  ravens'  wings ;  Tuckasegee,  the 
terrapins  of  its  valley  ponds ;  Nantahala,  the  noon-day  sun, 


STATISTICS. 

Settled  at   ...      Roanoke  Island. 

Settled  in 1585 

Founded  by    ....    Englishmen. 
One  of  the  original  13  States. 


Population  in  1860, 


992,622 
1,071,361 
1,399,750 
867,242 
532,508 
1,396,008 


apu 

In  1870, 

In  1880, 

White 

Colored 

American-born,     . 
Foreign-born,  . 

Males, 

Females, 

In  1890  (U.  S.  Census), 

Population  to  the  square  mile,        31 

Voting  Population,     .     .     .     294,750 

Vote  for  Harrison  (1888),       134,784 

Vote  for  Cleveland  (1888),     147,902 

Net  State  Debt,      .     .    $7,538,567.79 

Real  Property,    .     .     .      $122,000,000 

Personal  Property,       .        $81,000,000 


711,842 
i,6i7,947 


Area  (square  miles),    .     .  52,250 

U.  S.  Representatives  (in  1893),  9 
Militia  (disciplined),  .  .  .  1,478 

Counties, 06 

Post-offices, 2,638 

Railroads  (miles),    ....         3,001 

Vessels,      .  • 370 

Tonnage, 13,205 

Manufactures  (yearly),       $20,084,237 

Operatives, 18,109 

Yearly  Wages,    .     .     .    $2,740,768 

Farm  Land  (in  acres),     .     22,639,644 

Farm-Land  Values,       $135,793,602 

Farm  Products  (yearly),  $51,729,611 

Public  Schools,  Average 

Daily  Attendance,  .     .     .     208,657 

Newspapers, 205 

Latitude,  .  .  .  33  50' to  36  33' N. 
Longitude,  .  .  75°27'  to  84°2o'  W. 
Temperature,  .  .  .  —5°  to  iO7P 
Mean  Temperature  (Raleigh),  59° 


TEN   CHIEF   CITIES  AND   THEIR   POP- 
ULATIONS.    (Census  of  1890.) 

.     .     .     .  20,056 

....  12:678 

•    <,-,•  11,557 

.....  10,235 

....  8,018 

....  7,843 

.....  ?,4«5 


Wilmington, 
Raleigh,  .  . 
Charlotte,  . 
Asheville,  . 
Winston, 
New  Berne, 
Durham, 
Salisbury,  . 
Concord,  .  . 
Fayetteville, 


4  339 

4,2.22 


lighting  its  dark  glens ;  and  Cullasaja,  the  sweet  waters. 

In  the  closing  hours  of  the  I5th  century,  six  years  after  Columbus  discovered  America. 
Sebastian  Cabot  cruised  southward  nearly  to  Albemarle  Sound  ;  and  in  1524,  Verrazano 
sighted  Cape  Fear.  The  renowned  Sir  Walter  Ralegh,  Queen  Elizabeth's  favorite  and  King 


646 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


MOREHEAD   CITY  I 
HOTEL,    AND   TEACHERS'   ASSEMBLY. 


James's  victim,  received  in  1584  a  charter  designed  to 
foster  the  colonization  of  America  by  Englishmen,  and 
sent  out  various  expeditions  to  this  end.  In  1585  the 
first  English  colony  in  all  America  entered  North  Caro- 
lina, settling  on  Roanoke  Island.  For  a  year  108  im- 
migrants languished  here,  getting  into  such  straits  for 
food  that  they  killed  their  mastiffs,  and  ate  "Dogges' 
porridge."  They  gladly  went  back  to  England,  in  Sir 
Francis  Drake's  fleet,  much  fearing  the  hostile  Indians, 
who  destroyed  a  subsequent  colony  of  Ralegh's,  root 
and  branch.  The  Roanoke  men  first  bore  back  to  Eng- 
land the  custom  of  smoking  tobacco,  learned  from  the  North-Carolina  natives.  In  the  last 
ill-fated  colony  on  the  island  was  born  Virginia  Dare,  the  first  white  native  American.  The 
second  Ralegh  colony  appears  to  have  been  absorbed  by  the  Croatan  Indians,  and  a  settle- 
ment of  2,000  people  in  Robeson  County,  claiming  descent  from  the  Indians,  are  also 
descendants  of  the  "Lost  Colony." 

Secretary  Povey,  of  Virginia,  explored  the  Chowan  country  in  1623  ;  and  30  years  later 
Roger  Green  led  a  colony  from  the  Nansemond  to  the  Roanoke  region.  The  next  per- 
manent settlers  established  themselves  between  Albemarle  and  Currituck  Sounds,  and  lived 
almost  as  hermits,  widely  separated  from  each  other.  They  were  mostly  Friends,  and 
bought  their  land  from  Cistacanoe,  the  chief  of  the  local  Indians.  Half  of  the  population 
of  North  Carolina  70  years  later  were  Friends.  The  first  timothy  grass  came  from  Durant's 
Neck,  in  this  cradle  of  North  Carolina,  where  it  grows  wild.  Timothy,  a  Friend,  sent  seeds 
of  it  to  England,  where  the  new  forage-plant  received  his  name. 

In  1663  Charles  II.  granted  the  entire  continent  south  of  Virginia  to  31°  and  west  to  the 
Pacific  Ocean  to  eight  lords-proprietors,  who  formed  a  liberal  government,  gave  land  freely 
to  settlers  (for  quit-rents),  made  taxation  an  affair  of  the  local  legislature,  and  decreed 
full  religious  liberty.  The  latter  novelty  caused  many  Dissenters  to  settle  here,  coming 
especially  from  tithe-ridden  Virginia.  The  complicated  and  cumbrous  Fundamental  Con- 
stitutions were  drawn  up  in  1670,  by  John  Locke,  the  philosopher,  for  the  colony,  but 
strongly  resisted  by  the  people  and  finally  abandoned.  Immigrants  from  Bermuda,  Bar- 
badoes  and  New  England  came  to  Albemarle  (as  the  province  was  then  called)  ;  the  armed 
rebellion  of  the  deposed  Gov.  Gary  yielded  to  regular  troops  from  Virginia  ;  and  the  moun- 
taineers defeated  the  savage  Tuscarora  Indians,  and  drove  them  to  New  York.  In  1728, 
when  North  Carolina  had  15,000  inhabitants,  the  King  bought  out  seven  of  the  lords-pro- 
prietors, South  Carolina  having  much  earlier  cast  off  its  allegiance  to  the  proprietors, 
and  become  a  Royal  Province.  Prior  to  1746  considerable  numbers  of  Scotch  Highlanders 
settled  in  North  Carolina  ;  and  between  1746  and  1776,  many  more,  implicated  in  the  rebel- 
lion of  Prince  Charles,  were  transported  to  America,  and  occupied  the  counties  along  and 
southwest  of  Cape-Fear  River.  About  3,000  Scotch-Irish  people  also  left  Ulster,  and  sought 
religious  freedom  in  western  Carolina.  In  1712  a  large  colony  of  Swiss  and  Germans,  under 

Baron  de  Graffenreid,  settled  along  the  Neuse  and 
Trent  Rivers,  naming  their  chief  town  New  Berne. 
The  Moravians  also  bought  100,000  acres  north  of 
the  Yadkin  River,  and  built  Salem  as  their  chief 
town. 

Many  Virginians  and  Pennsylvanians  migrated 
here,  with  Germans  and  Dutch,  Swiss  and  French- 
men. They  came  because  North  Carolina  was  a 
free  country,  and  they  kept  it  so.  Tyrannical 
governors  were  deposed,  church-rates  refused,  and 
LINVILLE  RIVER.  extortionate  crown-officers  beaten.  In  1771  many  of 


THE  STATE   OF  NORTH  CAROLINA. 


647 


IN    THE    BLUE    RIDGE. 


the  people  of  Orange  and  the  other  western  coun- 
ties rose  against  taxation  and  other  oppressions, 
calling  themselves  Regulators.  Gov.  Tryon  de- 
feated 2,000  of  them  in  the  battle  of  Alamance, 
where  100  men  were  killed  and  wounded.  In 
Mav»  J775>  tne  people  of  Mecklenburg  declared 
their  county  independent  of  Britain.  February 
27,  1776,  Cornwallis  and  Clinton  lay  with  100  ves- 
sels and  seven  regiments  in  the  lower  Cape-Fear 
River,  but  the  local  militia  defeated  1,500  High- 
landers marching  to  join  the  British  force,  at  the 
battle  of  Moore's-Creek  Bridge,  and  8,000  patriots  collecting  on  the  Cape-Fear  River,  the 
British  sailed  away  to  Charleston.  Meanwhile,  many  North-Carolinians  had  crossed  the 
Alleghanies,  founding  the  first  settlements  of  Tennessee.  Six  regiments  of  these  pio- 
neers and  of  North-Carolina  troops  assembled  at  the  Cowpens,  in  1780,  and  after  a  perilous 
night-march,  shattered  Ferguson's  British  and  Tory  army  on  King's  Mountain  (S.  C.). 
Bancroft  says  that  this  victory  "changed  the  aspect  of  the  war.  The  appearance  of  a 
numerous  enemy  from  settlements  beyond  the  mountains,  whose  very  names  had  been 
unknown  to  the  British,  took  Cornwallis  by  surprise."  The  splendid  British  cavalry  of 
Col.  Tarleton  kept  the  Carolinas  in  continual  alarm,  until  January,  1781,  when  Lieut. -Col. 
Washington  inflicted  a  crushing  defeat  upon  this  force,  at  the  Cowpens.  In  1781  Gen.  Greene 
made  a  masterly  retreat  of  200  miles  into  Virginia,  hotly  pursued  by  Lord  Cornwallis. 
Returning  to  Guilford  Court  House,  he  was  defeated  there  by  a 
British  force,  but  the  victory  cost  the  Royalists  600  men,  and 
they  retreated  hastily  to  Wilmington,  and  thence  to  Virginia. 

When  the  late  civil  war  broke  out,  North  Carolina  remained 
true  to  the  Union  until  all  the  surrounding  States  had  seceded. 
When  President  Lincoln  called  on  her  to  furnish  her  quota  of 
troops  for  the  Federal  army,  she  promptly  took  sides  with  the 
South.  The  forts  at  Wilmington  and  Beaufort,  the  Charlotte  Mint 
and  the  Fayetteville  Arsenal  had  already  been  seized.  In  the 
struggle  that  ensued,  the  Old  J^orth  State  sent  out  more  troops  and 
lost  more  than  any  other  in  the  South.  Her  levies  included  89,344 
volunteers,  18,583  conscripts,  and  19,000  reserves  and  militiamen, 
embodied  in  62  regiments  and  15  battalions  of  infantry,  six  of 
cavalry  and  three  of  artillery.  Over  50,000  of  these  troops  died  in  the  service,  or  were 
wounded  in  battle.  Three  months  after  the  secession,  Gen.  Butler  and  Com.  Stringham 
bombarded  and  took  Forts  Hatteras  and  Clark,  commanding  the  entrance  to  Pamlico 
Sound.  In  February,  1862,  Burnside  and  Goldsborough,  with  16,000  troops  and  100  ships, 
captured  the  six  forts  on  Roanoke  Island,  with  40  guns  and  2,000  men.  Within  a  few 
weeks,  the  National  forces  occupied  Edenton,  Win- 
ton,  Elizabeth  City,  New  Berne,  Morehead  City,  Beau- 
fort, Washington,  and  Plymouth.  Blockade-running 
flourished  at  Wilmington,  where  in  a  single  year 
300  steamships  ran  the  gauntlet,  writh  over  100,000 
bales  of  cotton.  In  1864,  Admiral  Porter  and  Gen. 
Butler  failed  in  an  attack  on  Fort  Fisher,  at  the  mouth 
of  the  river  ;  but  Porter  and  Terry  stormed  this  fort- 
ress early  in  1865,  with  a  loss  of  700  men.  Soon 
afterward  Schofield  and  the  23d  Corps  occupied  Wil-  DEEP-WATER  BRIDGE. 

mington  and  Goldsborough.     In  March,    1865,   Sherman's   great  National   army   entered 
North  Carolina,  on  its  way  towards  Richmond,  fighting  with  Hardee  at  Averysborough,  and 


HICKORY-NUT    GAP: 
CHIMNEY  ROCK. 


648 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 


LINVILLE    GORGE. 


defeating  Gen.  Johnston's  26,000  Confederates  at  Bentonville, 
where  4,000  men  were  killed  or  wounded.  Then  the  victors 
joined  Schofield  at  Goldsborough.  Meanwhile,  Stoneman  and 
the  Fourth  Corps  had  swept  across  from  Nashville  to  Salisbury. 
April  13,  1865,  Sherman  marched  into  Raleigh,  with  the  armies 
of  the  Ohio,  the  Cumberland  and  the  Tennessee,  Johnston's  Con- 
federates retreating  toward  Charlotte.  The  Union  commander 
invited  Gov.  Vance  and  the  civil  officers  of  the  State  to  return  to 
their  capital ;  and  on  the  26th  Gen.  Johnston,  at  Durham,  sur- 
rendered to  him  the  36,817  Confederate  soldiers  of  his  army. 
The  war  left  North  Carolina  bankrupt  and  prostrate,  but  in  the 
subsequent  years  she  has  made  marvellous  advances  in  popula- 
tion, cultivated  lands,  improved  farming  methods,  length  of  rail- 
ways, and  diversified  industries. 

The  Name,  Arx  Carolina,  was  given  by  the  Huguenot  colon- 
ists under  Ribault  and  Laudonniere,  landing  south  of  Beaufort  in 
1 562,  to  their  little  fortress,  in  honor  of  King  Charles  IX.  of  France ;  and  this  title  gradu- 
ally became  attached  to  the  country.  In  1629,  King  Charles  I.  granted  territory  south  of  the 
Chesapeake  to  Sir  Robert  Heath,  and  named  it  after  himself,  Carolana.  When  the  new  char- 
ter of  1663  was  given,  by  Charles  II.,  this  name  became  Carolina.  There  appears  to  be  a  just 
doubt  as  to  which  of  these  three  kings  the  State  was  named  for.  The  popular  pet  name  is  THE 
OLD  NORTH  STATE,  referring  to  its  place  in  the  Carolinas.  During  the  Civil  War  its  people 
were  called  Tar  Heels,  in  allusion  to  the  prevailing  tar  industry  of  the  lowland  forests. 

The  Arms  of  North  Carolina  bear  two  robed  female  figures,  Liberty  and  Ceres,  the 
one  with  a  wand  and  Phrygian  cap.  the  other  with  a  great  horn  of  plenty,  filled  with  the 
fruits  of  the  earth.  For  40  years  the  State  troops  have  borne  blue  silken  flags  with  this 
device  on  many  a  deadly  field  of  battle. 

-  The  Governors  of  the  State  have  been :  Alex.  Martin,  1789-92  ;  Richard  D.  Spaight, 
1792-5;  Samuel  Ashe,  1795-8;  William  R.  Davie,  1798-9;  Benjamin  Williams,  1799- 
1802;  James  Turner,  1802-5;  Nathaniel  Alexander,  1805-7;  Benjamin  Williams,  1807-8; 
David  Stone,  1808-10;  Benjamin  Smith,  1810-11;  William  Hawkins,  1811-14;  William 
Miller,  1814-17  ;  John  Branch,  1817-20;  Jesse  Franklin,  1820-1  ;  Gabriel  Holmes,  1821-4; 
Hutchings  G.  Burton,  1824-7;  James  Iredell,  1827-8;  John  Owen,  1828-30;  Montford 
Stokes,  1830-2  ;  David  L.  Swain,  1832-5  ;  Richard  D.  Spaight,  1835-7  ;  Edward  B.  Dudley, 
1837-41;  John  M.  Mprehead,  1841-5;  William  A.  Graham,  1845-9;  Charles  Manly, 
1849-51;  David  S.  Reid,  1851-55;  Thomas  Bragg,  1855-59;  Jonn  w-  Ellis>  1859-61 ; 
Z.  B.  Vance,  1861-5;  William  W.  Holden  (provisional,  1865;  Jonathan  Worth,  1865-9; 
William  W.  Holden,  1869-71;  Tod  R.  Caldwell,  1871-4;  Curtis  H.  Brogden,  1874-7; 
Zebulon  B.  Vance,  1877-9;  Thomas  J.  Jarvis,  1879-85;  Alfred  M.  Scales,  1885-9;  Daniel 
G.  Fowle,  1889-91  ;  and  Thomas  M.  Holt,  1891-92. 

Descriptive.—  On  its  seaward  front  of  400  miles  North  Carolina  is  lined  with  long 
islands  of  sand,  from  half  a  mile  to  two  miles  wide,  with  dangerous  angles  at  Cape  Lookout 
and  Cape  Hatteras,  and  great  shoals  extending  leagues  out  into  the  ocean,  and  through 
the  sounds  behind.  Inside  these  sand-dunes  open  the  broad 
sounds,  Pamlico,  80  miles  long  by  from  ten  to  30  miles  wide, 
and  20  feet  deep ;  Albemarle,  60  miles  long  by  from  four  to 
15  miles  wide,  with  water  nearly  fresh  ;  and  Currituck,  50 
miles  long  by  from  two  to  ten  miles  wide.  Inland  for  50  miles 
the  country  is  low,  and  broken  by  swamps,  lakes  and  inlets, 
and  the  broad  estuaries  of  sluggish  rivers.  Currituck  and 
Albemarle  Sounds  have  no  seaward  openings,  but  discharge  into 
WILMINGTON  i  POST-OFFICE.  Pamlico  Sound,  from  which  Oregon,  Hatteras  and  Ocracoke 


THE  STATE   OF  NORTH  CAROLINA. 


649 


BLUE    RIDGE  :     ROUND    KNOB. 


Inlets  connect  with  the  Atlantic.  The  Little  Dismal 
Swamp,  or  Alligator  Swamp,  between  Albemarle  and  Pam- 
lico  Sounds,  the  Great  Dismal  Swamp,  and  others  cover 
3,000,000  acres,  with  soil  of  remarkable  richness,  raising 
great  crops  when  drained  and  reclaimed.  The  Dismal- 
Swamp  Canal  opens  inland  communication  between  Albe- 
marle Sound  and  Chesapeake  Bay.  The  chief  harbors  are 
at  Wilmington,  New  Berne,  Beaufort  and  Edenton.  The 
Cape-Fear  River,  300  miles  long,  is  ascended  by  large 
vessels  34  miles,  to  Wilmington,  and  by  sloops  120  miles,  to  Fayetteville.  The  Roanoke  flows 
250  miles,  and  may  be  ascended  120  miles,  to  Halifax.  The  continuous  Pamlico  and  Tar 
Rivers  give  navigation  for  95  miles,  to  Tarborough.  The  Neuse  affords  passage  for  boats 
for  120  miles,  to  near  Goldsborough.  The  Chowan  has  75  miles  of  navigable  current.  The 
Yadkin  and  Catawba  find  the  sea  through  South  Carolina  ;  and  the  rivers  beyond  the  Blue 
Ridge  enter  the  Tennessee  and  Mississippi. 

The  fisheries  are  of  increasing  value,  and  hatcheries  have  been  established  for  rock-fish, 
herring  and  shad.  Over  100,000  barrels  of  fish  are  caught  yearly,  including  mullet  and  blue- 
fish.  The  oyster-beds  in  the  sounds  have  recently  been  mapped  by  Lieut.  Winslow,  U.  S.  N. 
A  thousand  North-Carolinians  are  engaged  in  oystering,  securing  1 70, ooo  bushels  yearly.  The 
sand-bars  between  Pamlico  Sound  and  the  sea  are  ranged  by  hundreds  of  "bankers," 

or  wild  ponies,  cast  ashore  from  a  wreck  in  the 
last  century,  and  multiplying  in  freedom.  Wild 
fowl  abound  around  Pamlico  and  Albemarle. 

Nearly  half  of  the  20,000  square  miles  of 
the  lowlands  lies  in  the  shore-belt,  and  the  rest 
grows  more  hilly  as  it  approaches  the  west. 
Farther  inland  comes  the  middle  region,  20,000 
square  miles  of  hills  and  uplands,  with  the  Iqjig 
curving  water-sheds  of  the  rivers,  and  their  wide 
valleys.  Farther  west  lies  the  Piedmont  plateau, 
from  60  to  75  miles  wide,  with  frequent  mountain-spurs,  and  cut  by  the  valleys  of  the  Yad- 
kin, Catawba  and  Broad  Rivers.  The  Blue  Ridge  springs  up  from  the  Piedmont  region, 
traversing  the  entire  State,  northeast  and  southwest,  with  a  ragged  and  broken  escarpment 
facing  the  east,  and  gentler  western  slopes,  robed  with  heavy  forests.  The  mountain  land, 
in  the  extreme  west,  includes  the  huge  Blue  Ridge  on  the  east,  and  on  the  west  the  Alle- 
ghany  (  "Endless")  Mountains,  mainly  included  in  the  Great  Smoky  Range,  whose  con- 
tinuations along  the  border  are  the  Unaka,  Bald,  Iron  and  Stone  Ranges.  This  noble 
mountain-chain  is  cut  deep  by  the  gorges  of  the  westward-flowing  rivers,  the  Little  Ten- 
nessee, French  Broad,  and  others.  In  the  Smokies  are  23  of  North  Carolina's  57  peaks 
above  6,000  feet  high,  including  Clingman's  Dome  (6,660  feet),  Mount  Guyot  (Bullhead), 
6,636  ;  and  Mount  Love,  6,443.  In  these  ranges  and  the  connecting  cross-chains  occur  the 
loftiest  peaks  in  the  Atlantic  States.  The  trough 
between  the  Blue  Ridge  and  the  Alleghanies  is  200 
miles  long,  and  from  15  to  50  miles  wide,  covering 
6,000  square  miles.  In  the  north,  Yellow  Mountain 
stretches  across  it,  from  the  Grandfather,  the  highest 
Blue-Ridge  peak  (5,897  feet)  to  Roan  (6,306  feet), 
in  the  Smokies,  with  the  high  plateau  of  Watauga 
on  the  north,  and  on  the  south  a  vast  valley,  in 
whose  purple  mists  lie  13  counties.  Southwest  of 
Yellow,  beyond  this  deep  Nolechucky  Valley,  Black 
Mountain  crosses  the  trough  for  20  miles,  with  18 


PAINT    ROCK. 


THE   FRENCH    BROAD   RIVER,  AT   A8HEVILLE. 


650 


KING^S  HANDBOOK   OF  THE   UNITED   STATES. 


peaks  above  6,000  feet  high,  including  Mount 
Mitchell,  the  sovereign  summit  east  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  6, 7 1 1  feet  above  the  sea.  This  lonely 
crest  is  hallowed  by  the  grave  of  Prof.  Elisha 
Mitchell,  of  the  University  of  North  Carolina,  who 
lost  his  life  here,  in  1857,  while  engaged  in  measur- 
ing the  mountain  height.  A  bronze  monument  was 
erected  over  it  in  1888.  In  this  sierra  are  Balsam 
Cone,  6,671  feet  high;  Potato  Top,  6,393;  and 
Bowlen's  Pyramid,  6,348.  Southwest  of  the  range 
lies  the  lovely  valley  of  the  French  Broad,  bounded 

by  the  Newfound  Range.  Farther  southwest,  across  the  valley  of  the  Big  Pigeon,  towers 
the  Balsam  Range,  45  miles  long,  with  15  peaks  of  above  6,000  feet.  Among  its  noblest 
crests  are  the  Great  Divide,  6,425  feet  high;  Junaluska,  6,278  ;  and  Devil's  Court-House, 
6,049.  Towards  the  southwestern  corner  of  the  State,  the  great  valley  is  barred  off  again 
by  the  Cowee,  Nantihala  and  Valley-River  Ranges,  in  which  the  Little  Tennessee  and  its 
affluents  take  their  rise.  A  great  spur  running  northeast  from  the  Balsams  ends  in  Mount 
Pisgah,  5,712  feet  high,  and  one  of  the  most  famous  landmarks  of  the  Carolinas. 

In  this  "land  of  the  sky"  occur  many  lovely  glens  and  fertile  coves,  surrounded  with 
wooded  ridges  and  profound  forests,  and  occupied  by  the  quaint  hamlets  and  lonely  farms 
of  the  mountaineers.  Among  the  heights  are  the  loftiest  villages  east  of  Colorado ;  Boone, 
3,242  feet  high;  Jefferson,  2,940;  Burnsville,  2,840;  Waynesville,  2,756;  and  scores  of 
others  higher  than  Bethlehem  of  New  Hampshire.  The  favorite  summer-resorts  are  Ashe- 
ville,  in  the  French-Broad  valley  ;  Hot  Springs,  close  to  the  Alleghanies ;  Waynesville, 
under  the  shadow  of  the  Balsams ;  Caesar's  Head,  a  hotel  3,500  feet  high,  on  Coesar's-Head 
Mountain ;  Haywood  White  Sulphur  Springs,  near  the  Balsams ;  Sparkling  Catawba 
Springs,  with  blue  and  white  sulphur  and  chalybeate  waters ;  Arden  Park,  with  its  hotel 
and  mineral  waters ;  Glen  Alpine,  13  miles  from  Morganton,  with  a  vast  mountain-view 
from  above  its  hotel,  and  tonic  and  alterative  lithia  springs;  and  Cloudland  Hotel,  6,250 
feet  high,  near  the  top  of  Roan  Mountain,  on  a  flowery  plateau  en  walled  by  dark  balsam 
woods,  famous  for  the  cure  of  hay-fever.  Among  the  natural  beauties  are  the  Linville 
Gorge,  where  an  angry  river  bursts  through  the  Linville  Mountains ;  the  bleak  mountain- 
crowning  Table  Rock;  the  famous  Hickory-Nut  Gap,  nine  miles  long,  on  the  Rocky 
Broad;  the  Painted  Rocks  and  the  Chimnies,  on  the  French  Broad;  Whiteside  Moun- 
tain, with  a  curving  cliff  of  white  rock  two  miles  long  and  1,800  feet  high  ;  and  the  famous 
Pilot  Mountain,  in  Surrey  County. 

Among  the  most  charming  localities  in  this  country  is  the  vicinity  of  Asheville,  where 
is  situated  the  famous  Battery-Park  Hotel,  one  of  the  most  perfect  resorts  on  the  continent. 
The  surrounding  region  is  as  picturesque  as  can  be  found  anywhere,  and  the  hotel  has  been 
admirably  adapted  to  such  a  romantic  spot.  It  is,  indeed,  a  modern  paradise  among  the 
mountains,  charming  in  its  many  gables,  its  airy  verandas  and  its  delightfully  picturesque 
views.  The  hotel  is  owned  by  Col.  F.  Coxe,  of  Philadelphia,  and  is  managed  by  J.  B. 
Steele.  It  was  built  in  1886,  and  enlarged 
in  1887  and  r888,  and  again  in  1890.  The 
rooms  for  guests  are  large  and  well-arranged. 
There  are  billiard-rooms  for  both  ladies  and 

gentlemen,  a  spacious  ball-room,  ver-     . /- •< 

andas,  promenades,  parlors  and  re- 
ception rooms,  and  airy  and  ample 
dining  rooms.  All  of  the  guest-rooms 
have  outward  looks,  and  there  is  a 
picturesque  view  from  every  window.  ASHEVILLE  :  BATTERY-PARK  HOTEL. 


THE   STATE   OF  NORTH   CAROLINA. 


651 


TRYON    MOUNTAIN. 


The  hotel  is  easily  accessible  from  all  points,  and  is 
just  24  hours  from  New  York.  The  mild  and  even 
climate  of  Asheville  makes  the  Battery-Park  Hotel 
a  delightful  place  of  resort  either  in  summer  or 
winter.  The  rides  and  drives  for  miles  are  of  the  most 
romantic  description ;  and  the  city  of  Asheville,  with 
its  population  of  about  10,000,  is  composed  chiefly 
of  the  lovely  homes  of  the  well-to-do  people  from 
many  States  who  spend  the  whole  or  part  of  their 
time  here.  It  is  here,  too,  that  George  Vanderbilt 
has  acquired  about  6,000  acres  of  land,  and  is  pre- 
paring a  baronial  estate. 

Since  the  war,  thousands  of  Northerners  afflicted 
with  pulmonary  diseases  have  found  relief  in  the  Blue  Ridge,  whose  grand  scenery  of  cliffs 
and  valleys  and  waterfalls  may  be  enjoyed  in  the  pleasant  summer  climate.  The  southern- 
middle  sand-hills,  among  the  odors  of  the  long-leaved  pines,  also  have  found  favor  with 
sufferers  of  this  class.  The  summer-resorts  along  the  coast,  with  their  hotels  and  sea-bathing, 
are  mainly  occupied  by  Carolinians. 

North  Carolina  of  the  sixteenth  century  lay  hidden  under  noble  forests,  of  almost 
tropical  richness  and  variety,  and  thousands  of  miles  still  thus 
remain,  and  are  increasing  in  value.  The  swampy  alluvial 
lands  and  black  peaty  soils  of  the  tide-water  counties  have 
immense  pineries,  with  leagues  of  cypresses  and  junipers. 
Farther  inland  grow  myriads  of  oaks,  large  chestnuts  and 
poplars,  and  noble  hickories,  mingling  along  the  mountains 
with  hemlocks  and  white  pines.  Of  late  years  the  moun- 
tain-forests have  been  attacked  on  all  sides,  and  lumber  is 
exported  in  large  quantities.  The  Piney  Woods  cover  a  level 
belt  of  sandy  barrens,  from  30  to  80  miles  wide,  running  south- 
west across  the  State,  from  Virginia,  and  overshadowed  by 
thick-foliaged  long-leaved  pines.  Two  thirds  of  the  turpen- 
tine and  rosin,  pitch  and  tar  produced  in  the  United  States 
comes  from  North  Carolina,  and  great  quantities  are  shipped 
from  Wilmington. 

The  Climates  of  North  Carolina  are  those  of  Sicily  and 
Upper  Canada.  The  lowlands  have  an  Italian  and  sub- 
tropical temperature,  warm  and  humid,  with  prevailing  southwest  winds,  and  winter  and 
summer  means  of  46°  and  79°.  The  middle  region  has  almost  continuous  northwest  winds, 
with  winters  averaging  44°  and  summers  of  77°.  The  mountain-country  has  the  climate 
of  New  England,  averaging  52°,  sometimes  falling  in  winter  to  zero,  and  in  summer  averag- 
ing 70°.  The  mean  yearly  rainfall  is  60  inches  in  the  east,  45  in  the  middle,  and  58  among 
the  mountains,  evenly  distributed  throughout  the  seasons.  This  is  nearly  double  the  rain- 
fall of  France  and  England,  yet  the  air  is  dry  and  ^  t.t&e?- ,,,.  ^^v 
clear,  and  grapes  and  cotton  grow  successfully.  ^ 
The  climate,  aside  from  the  malarial  lowlands,  is 
healthy,  and  the  death-rate  is  low. 

Agriculture  has  been  advanced  of  late  years  by 
the  introduction  of  intensive  farming,  labor-saving  ma- 
chinery, the  increase  of  grass  area,  and  the  improve- 
ment of  breeds  of  live-stock.  The  Agricultural  De- 
partment and  Experiment  Station  have  given  special 
attention  also  to  fertilizers,  improving  their  quality.  MEDOC  :  MEDOC  VINEYARD. 


HOT    SPRINGS  I     THE   CASCADES. 


652  KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE    UNITED   STATES. 

The  farms  produce  yearly  36,000,000  bushels  of  corn,  5,000,000  of  wheat,  5,000,000  of 
oats,  5,000,000  of  sweet  potatoes,  400,000  bales  of  cotton  (worth  $18,000,000^,  35,000,000 
pounds  of  tobacco,  and  6,000,000  pounds  of  rice,  with  large  quantities  of  hay.  honey  and 
butter.  North  Carolina  is  the  first  of  the  States  in  the  value  of  its  medicinal  herbs, 
mainly  ginseng,  spikenard,  and  hellebore,  shipped  from  Statesville. 

The  Bright-Tobacco  Belt  covers  the  northern  counties,  and  yields  the  greater  part  of  the 
yellow  tobacco  (or  gold  leaf)  of  America,  singularly  free  from  nicotine  and  nitrogen,  and 
commanding  the  highest  prices. 

The  peanut  crop  exceeds  300,  ooo  bushels  yearly,  at  50  bushels  to  the  acre,  the  chief  mar- 
ket being  at  Wilmington.  The  oil  derived  from  peanuts  is  valuable  for  table  use,  lubrica- 
ting and  burning  in  lamps. 

Grapes  grow  abundantly  on  the  lowlands,  and  their  cultivation  occupies  increasing 
areas.  The  Scuppernong  grape,  native  to  North  Carolina,  is  large  and  luscious,  and  produces 
an  excellent  wine.  The  Catawba  and  Isabella  grapes  are  also  successfully  raised,  and  origi- 
nated here.  The  famous  Medoc  Vineyard,  established  in  1835,  tne  largest  Scuppernong 
vineyard  in  the  world,  is  at  Medoc,  in  Halifax  County,  near  the  Piedmont  Belt,  and  some  1,500 
to  2,000  feet  above  tide- water.  The  soil  and  climate  of  this  immediate  section  is  exception- 
ally adapted  for  the  cultivation  of  the  Scuppernong,  the  only  known  vine  that  has  withstood 
the  insect  phylloxera,  being  of  long  life,  and  practically  "fire-proof."  Some  vines  are  a  foot 
in  diameter.  At  this  vineyard  a  crop  failure  is  unknown,  and  the  sales  of  the  wines  and 
brandies,  averaging  $40,000  a  year,  are  made  throughout  the  Union.  These  wines  have 
been  awarded  several  prizes.  The  property  includes  about  1,000  acres,  loo  of  which  are 
in  grapes,  and  400  in  a  high  state  of  cultivation ;  and  the  wine-vaults,  with  a  capacity  of 
150,000  gallons,  were  constructed  with  special  reference  to  the  aging  of  the  wines  and 
their  security  against  fire.  This  whole  property  is  owned  by  the  Medoc  Vineyard  Company, 
a  corporation  with  a  paid-in  capital  of  $200,000,  which  bought  it  from  the  heirs  of  the 
late  C.  W.  Garrett,  who  developed  this  notable  vineyard.  The  Medoc  farm  is  famous 
for  its  crops  of  tobacco,  cotton,  and  corn,  and  forms  one  of  the  most  delightful  spots  in 

North  Carolina. 

The    Mineral    Resources  of  North  Carolina  are 
great,  though  as  yet  but  imperfectly  developed.    The  gold- 
bearing  region  extends  from  Halifax  to  Cherokee  County, 
with  valuable  placers  and  veins,  especially  in  the  midlands. 
The  Gold- Hill  Mine,  near  Salisbury,  has  produced  over 
2,000,000   in   bullion  ;   and   the  output    of  the   State 
has   exceeded    $20,000,000.      The    old    United- 
States  Mint,  at  Charlotte,  is  now  an  assay  office. 
Silver -mines     occur    in    the    Salisbury    region. 
North  Carolina  produces  nearly  half  the  smelted 
and  rolled  zinc  of  the  Republic.     Bituminous  and 
( semi-bituminous  coal  occurs  in  large  deposits  on 
Deep  River.      It  is  valuable  for  smelting  and  gas- 
making,  but  has  been  only  slightly  developed. 
The  Dan-River  coal-field  also  extends  32  miles 
into  the  State.      Hematite  and  magnetic  iron-ores 
have  been  mined  in  the  mountains  for  over  a  century,  and  are 
now  used  in  the  Bessemer  furnaces  of  Pennsylvania.     Copper 
occurs  chiefly  in  the  middle  and  west,  and  is  mined  south  of 
the    Balsam  Range.      Copperas,  cobalt,   plumbago,   antimony, 
arsenic,  nickel,  lead  and  tin  are  also  found  in  the  hills.    Much 
of  the  mica  used  in  this  country  is  mined  in  the  mountains  of 
North  Carolina,   in    Mitchell,   Macon  and   Yancey  Counties. 


CHAPEL  HILL  I    UNIVERSITY  OF  NORTH  CAROLINA 
—  MEMORIAL    HALL. 


THE   STATE   OF  NORTH  CAROLINA.  653 

The  largest  existing  mines  of  corundum  (emery),  much  used  in  the  arts,  are  in  Macon 
County.  White  and  rose-colored  marble,  fine  gray  granite,  millstones,  whetstones,  grind- 
stones., potters'  clay,  fire-ciay,  talc,  manganese,  asbestos,  and  barytes,  also  occur.  Soap- 
stone  is  quarried  in  Moore  ;  porphyry,  near  Jones  Falls  ;  red  sandstone,  at  Waynesborough, 
Sanf  ord  and  Egypt ;  and  gray  sandstone  at  Durham.  Phosphate  rock  occurs  in  1 50  beds, 
between  the  Neuse  and  South  Carolina,  in  a  belt  from  15  to  20  miles  -•  wide,  parallel  to 
the  coast.  It  is  valuable  as  a  fertilizer. 

The  Government  includes  a  governor  and  six 
executive  officers,  elected  by  the  people  every  four 
years;  the  General  Assembly,  of  50  senators  and  120 
representatives,  elected  and  meeting  every  two  years ; 
the  elective  Supreme  Court  of  five  justices,  and 
Superior  Court  of  12  judges;  and  the  county  justices 
of  the  peace.  The  State  House  is  a  fine  old  granite 
building,  with  dome  and  colonnades,  standing  in  a 
six-acre  park  in  the  centre  of  Raleigh.  Among  other 
Commonwealth  structures  are  the  Governor's  Mansion,  the  Agricultural  Building,  the 
Supreme  Court,  and  the  State  Geological  Museum.  The  Penitentiary,  at  Raleigh,  has  184 
•convicts  within  its  walls,  and  1,300  working  outside,  mainly  in  the  construction  of  railroads. 
The  Western  Insane  Asylum,  at  Morganton,  cost  $450,000,  and  contains  420  patients ;  the 
Asylum  at  Raleigh  has  300 ;  and  the  Eastern  Asylum,  near  Goldsborough,  has  200  colored 
patients.  There  are  separate  asylums  at  Raleigh  for  the  white  blind,  deaf  and  dumb  per- 
sons (135),  and  for  the  negroes  (53).  The  Oxford  Orphan  Asylum,  conducted  by  the 
Masons,  receives  a  State  grant. 

The  National  Cemetery  at  Salisbury  contains  the  graves  of  12,126  Federal  soldiers,  who 
died  here  in  captivity.  The  National  Cemetery  at  New  Berne  has  3, 254  graves.  The 

National  Cemetery  at  Wilmington  has  2,291. 

Education  was  of  slow  growth  in  colonial 
North  Carolina,  and  most  of  the  youth  of  the 
better  classes  attended  the  English  universities, 
or  had  private  tutors.  After  the  great  Scotch- 
Irish  immigration,  in  1736,  the  incoming  Presby- 
terians founded  numerous  classical  schools.  For 
half  a  century,  the  leading  educational  forces  in 
North  Carolina  came  from  Princeton  College.  Education  is  now  backward,  owing  to  the 
loss  of  the  school-fund  in  the  war;  but  600,000  acres  of  public  swamp-lands  have  been 
devoted  to  this  purpose.  White  teachers  are  drilled  one  month  in  each  summer  at  the 
Teachers'  Assembly,  with  a  large  new  building  at  the  sea-side  summer-resort  of  Morehead 
City.  The  common  schools  were  closed  from  1865  to  1870,  for  lack  of  money ;  and  the  Pea- 
body  Fund  was  of  aid  in  this  crisis,  and  since.  The  State  College  of  Agriculture  and  the 
Mechanic  Arts  was  opened  at  Raleigh  in  1880. 

The  University  of  North  Carolina  was  incorporated  in  1789;  endowed  with  large  tracts 
of  Tennessee  land;  and  opened  in  1795,  at  Chapel  Hill,  28  miles  westward  of  Raleigh. 
When  the  Secession  War  broke  out,  it  had  500  students  ;  and  this  was  the  only  Southern 
university  kept  open  throughout  those  terrible  years.  In  1868,  Gov.  David  L.  Swain,  its 
President  since  1835,  was  displaced,  and  a  new  faculty  came  into  power;  but  the  University 
closed  its  doors  from  1870  to  1875,  having  lost  touch  with  the  people.  Ex- State-Treasurer 
Kemp  P.  Battle  became  President  in  1876,  and  better  days  dawned  on  the  venerable  institu- 
tion. It  has  17  instructors  and  200  students,  a  library  of  25,000  volumes,  and  valuable 
museums.  The  University  campus  includes  50  acres  of  fine  old  oaks  and  hickories,  with  500 
acres  of  forest  adjacent.  Here  stand  the  old  east  (1795)  and  west  (1826)  buildings  and  the 
new  east  (1889)  and  west  (1859)  buildings,  and  the  south  building  (1814),  used  mainly  as 


DAVIDSON    COLLEGE. 


654  KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

dormitories;  Person  Hall  (1796),  the  chemical  laboratory  and  industrial  museum;  Smith 
Hall  (1852),  with  the  University  library  and  laboratories;  Gerrard  Hall  (1827),  the  chapel ; 
Gymnasium  Hall  (1835);  an(^  tne  University  Memorial  Hall  (1885),  a  noble  auditorium, 
on  whose  walls  are  tablets  bearing  the  names  of  the  University's  eminent  officers  and 
graduates,  and  her  sons  slain  in  the  Secession  War.  Among  the  students  of  the  University 
were  President  James  K.  Polk,  Vice-President  Wm.  R.  King,  Senators  Thomas  H.  Benton, 
Zebulon  M.  Vance,  Frank  P.  Blair,  and  hundreds  of  Southern  governors',  senators,  cabinet 
officers,  diplomats  and  divines.  Over  4,000  North  Carolinians  have  been  educated  here. 

Wake  Forest  College,  a  famous  Baptist  school,  was  opened  in  1834,  16  miles  from  Raleigh, 
in  an  oak  forest,  and  became  a  college  four  years  later.  It  has  dormitory,  library,  and 
laboratory  buildings,  and  Wingate  Memorial  Hall.  There  are  eleven  professors  and  225 
students;  and  the  library  contains  15,000  volumes.  Davidson  College  was  founded  by  the 
Presbyterians  in  1837,  23  miles  north  of  Charlotte.  It  has  13  buildings,  eight  professors, 
and  1 20  students,  with  libraries  of  12,000  volumes.  Trinity  College  grew  out  of  a  Methodist 
academy  of  1838,  and  has  I2O  students.  The  Catawba  Valley  is  occupied  by  German 
Lutherans,  as  distinct  in  their  language  and  customs  as  the  Pennsylvania  Dutch.  This  sect 
conducts  North-Carolina,  Concordia  and  Gaston  Colleges.  The  most  celebrated  academy 

for  boys  is  the  Bingham  School,  founded  in  1793,  and  now 
near  Mebane,  50  miles  west  of  Raleigh.  It  has  220  stu- 
dents, with  a  military  organization  under  an  officer  de- 
tailed from  the  United-States  army. 

The  colored  people  have  Shaw  University,  at  Raleigh, 
with  college,  scientific,  normal,  theological,  medical  and 
industrial  departments  ;  Biddle  University,  at  Charlotte  ; 
and  other  advanced  institutions,  in  which  over  2,500 
negro  boys  and  girls  are  being  educated,  including  some 
from  Africa  and  the  West  Indies.  There  are  colored 
theological  schools  at  Raleigh  (Episcopal  and  Baptist) 
and  Charlotte  (Presbyterian) ;  and  white  schools  at  Con- 
MOUNT  MITCHELL.  over  (Lutheran)  and  Trinity  (Methodist-Episcopal  South), 

with  270  students.  The  law  schools  for  the  whites  are  at  Chapel  Hill  and  Greensborough ; 
and  a  medical  school  for  the  colored  people  is  at  Raleigh. 

Chief  Cities.  —  Raleigh  is  the  pleasant  capital  city,  on  high  ground  near  the  centre  of 
the  State,  with  several  good  public  buildings.  Wilmington,  on  the  Cape-Fear,  is  the 
metropolis  of  the  State,  and  its  chief  port,  with  a  large  foreign  commerce,  and  steamship 
lines  to  New  York,  Philadelphia  and  Baltimore.  Here  is  the  headquarters  of  the  At- 
lantic Coast  Line.  It  is  a  leading  market  for  naval  stores.  New  Berne  has  a  large  trade 
in  shipping  early  vegetables  and  naval  stores  to  the  North,  with  steamship  lines  to  Nor- 
folk, Baltimore  and  New  York.  Asheville  and  Charlotte  are  growing  inland  cities.  Dur- 
ham is  one  of  the  greatest  tobacco-manufacturing  points  in  the  world,  with  a  dozen  facto- 
ries and  snuff-mills,  tobacco-cure  w.orks,  tobacco-dust-fertilizer  mills,  and  a  cotton-mill 
whose  product  is  made  into  tobacco  bags.  One  company  makes  250,000,000  cigarettes  a  year. 
Manufacturing  has  developed  largely  since  1880,  reaching  $25,000,000  a  year,  includ- 
ing cotton  goods,  $3,000,000;  tobacco,  $2,000,000;  and  turpentine  and  tar,  $2,000,000. 

Railroads  began  with  the  Wilmington  &  Weldon  and  the  Raleigh  and  Gaston  lines,  in 
1843,  tne  Charlotte  &  Columbia  line  dating  from  1852.  The  State  is  now  served  by  several 
important  and  efficient  routes,  reaching  the  sea-board  at  Edenton,  New  Berne,  Beaufort  and 
Wilmington,  and  crossing  the  Alleghany  Mountains  by  the  French-Broad  Valley.  The 
great  through  route  of  the  Atlantic  Coast  Line  runs  down  across  the  Carolinas,  on  its  way 
between  New  York  and  Florida  ;  and  is  the  avenue  of  a  continually  increasing  volume  of 
travel,  favored  by  the  most  sumptuous  accommodations.  Goldsborough,  Charlotte,  and 
Greensborough  are  important  railway  centres. 


OKLHlAKOTA 


Settled  at Pembina. 

Settled  in 1780 

Founded  by  .  French-Canadians. 
Admitted  to  the  U.  S.,  Nov.  3,  1889. 
Population  in  1890  (U.  S. 

Census), 182,719 

Bonded  State  Debt,  .  .  .  $540,000 
Assessed  Valuation  (1890)  $78,000,000 
National  Banks,  ....  25 

Area  (square  miles),  .  .  .  70,795 
U.  S.  Representatives  (in  1893),  i 


513 

55 

512 

1,941 

1,485 

36,000 


North  Dakota  came  to 

the  United  States  as  a  part 

of  the  French  Province  of 

Louisiana,  bought  from  Na- 
poleon in  1803.    It  belonged 

to  the  District  of  Louisiana 

in  1804;  to  the  Territory  of 

Louisiana  in  1805  ;  and  to 

the  Territory  of  Missouri  in 

1812.  In  1834  the  section  of  North  Dakota  east  of  the  Mis- 
souri and  White-Earth  Rivers  became  a  part  of  Michigan 
Territory,  and  the  rest  lay  in  the  Indian  Country.  Two 
years  later,  the  Michigan  district  of  North  Dakota  became 
a  part  of  Wisconsin  Territory,  and  after  another  two  years 
it  was  handed  over  to  Iowa  Territory,  in  which  it  remained 
after  the  State  of  Iowa  entered  the  Republic.  In  1849  it: 
was  joined  to  Minnesota  Territory.  The  western  section 
became  a  part  of  Nebraska  Territory  in  1854.  At  the  erec- 
tion of  Minnesota  into  a  State,  the  region  west  of  it,  to  the 
Missouri  and  White-Earth  Rivers,  became  the  Territory  of 
Minnesota.  In  1861  this  last  political  division  became  ob- 
solete, and  the  Territory  of  Dakota  was  formed,  including 
North  and  South  Dakota,  and  large  parts  of  Montana  and 
Wyoming.  The  last  two  were  set  apart  to  Idaho  in  1863, 
and  in  part  retroceded  in  1864.  In  1868  and  1873  these 
divisions  were  again  taken  away,  and  Dakota  remained. 

For  many  years  much  of  this  region  was  known  as  the 
Mandan  Country,  from  the  tribe  of  Indians  dwelling  near 
the  site  of  Bismarck.  The  Sioux,  or  Dakotas,  checked  at 
some  remote  period  in  their  eastward  march  by  the  fiery 
Algonquins,  became  paramount  in  this  domain.  The  first 
recorded  settlement  in  North  Dakota  was  made  by  a  French 
trader,  in  1780,  at  Pembina.  Here  also  Lord  Selkirk's 
Scottish  colony,  planted  under  a  grant  from  the  Hudson- 
Bay  Company,  dwelt  from  1812  to  1823,  when  it  was  found  to  be  on  American  soil,  and 
moved  northward  into  Manitoba.  Up  to  1875  there  were  fewer  than  I,ooo  whites  in  all 
North  Dakota,  but  after  that  time  a  strong  flood  of  immigration  set  in,  favored  by  the 


Militia  (Disciplined), 

Counties, 

Post-offices, 

Railroads  (miles),  .  .  . 
Public  Schools,  .... 
School  Children,  enrolled 

Newspapers, 125 

Latitude, 46°  to  49°  N. 

Longitude,  .  .  o6°3o'  to  IO4°5/  W. 
Temperature,  .  .  .  —49°  to  107° 
Mean  Temperature( Bismarck),  39.4° 

TEN  CHIEF  TOWNS  AND  THEIR  POPU- 
LATIONS.    (Census  of  1890.) 

Fargo, 5,664 

Grand  Forks, 4,979 

Jamestown, 2,296 

Bismarck, 2,186 

Graf  ton, 1.594 

Wahpeton, 1,510 

Mandan, 1,328 

Valley  City, 1,089 

Lisbon, 933 

Devil's  Lake, 846 


TURTLE  MOUNTAINS:  A  SOD  HOUSE. 


656  AY.VC'S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE    UNITED   STATES. 

advance  of  the  railways.  The'  centres  of  Dakota's  popula- 
tion, Fargo  and  Bismarck  in  the  north,  and  Yankton  in  the 
south,  were  separated  by  almost  impassable  and  uninhabited 
areas,  with  no  railway  intercommunication.  This  diversity  of 
interests  led  to  sharp  contests  between  the  two  sections,  and 
in  the  end  resulted  in  their  separation.  Among  the  people 
of  North  Dakota  are  many  thousands  of  Americanized  Cana- 
dians, crossing  from  Manitoba  in  search  of  happier  condi- 
tions of  life.  There  are  also  great  numbers  of  Scandinavians  and  Germans,  and  small 
colonies  of  Russian  Mennonites,  Polish  Jews,  Roumelian  Turks  and  Icelanders. 

The  Name  Dakota  (pronounced  Dak-ko-tak}  means  "Allied,"  or  joined  together  in 
friendly  compact,  and  was  (and  is)  applied  to  themselves  by  the  great  Indian  nation  popu- 
larly known  as  the  Sioux.  Their  enemies,  the  Ojibways,  called  them  Nadoivavsioux',  "  The 
Foemen,".and  the  early  French  traders  caught  the  last  syllable  of  this  word,  and  always 
spoke  of  them  as  Sioux.  North  Dakota  is  sometimes  spoken  of  as  THE  Sioux  STATE,  or 
the  Land  of  the  Dakotas. 

The  Arms  of  North  Dakota  bear  a  tree,  with  a  half-circle  of  42  stars  in  its  foliage, 
and  wheat-sheaves  and  farm-tools  below,  and  on  one  side  an  Indian  on  horseback  pursuing 
a  buffalo  towards  the  setting  sun.  The  motto  is  LIBERTY  AND  UNION,  Now  AND  FOR- 
EVER, ONE  AND  INSEPARABLE. 

The  Governors  of  Dakota  Territory  were  :  William  Jaynes,  1861-3  ;  Newton  Edmunds, 
1863-6;  Andrew  J.  Faulk,  1866-9;  J°hn  A.  Burbank,  1869-74; 
John  L.  Pennington,  1874-8;  Wm.  A.  Howard,  1878-80;  N. 
G.  Ordway,  1880-4;  Gilbert  A.  Pierce,  1884-7;  Louis  K. 
Church,  1887-9;  Arthur  C.  Mellette,  1889.  State  governors  : 
John  Miller,  1890;  and  A.  H.  Burke,  1891-3. 

Descriptive. — The  sluggish,  narrow  and  devious  Red  River 
forms  almost  the  entire  eastern  boundary,  and  is  traversed  by 
steamboats  and  bordered  by  railways.  Vast  quantities  of  pine- 
logs  are  floated  down  from  the  Otter-Tail  and  Red-Lake  piner- 
ies to  the  saw-mills  at  Grand  Forks.  This  region  is  the  garden 
of  the  State,  and  nearly  always  produces  rich  harvests,  even  when  some  other  localities  are 
injured  by  droughts.  Several  of  the  bonanza  wheat-farms  of  the  Red-River  Valley  are  from 
5,000  to  15,000  acres  each  in  area,  with  a  large  number  above  1,000  acres.  The  famous 
Dalrymple  farm  covers  J$,ooo  acres  ;  and  the  domains  of  the  Grandins  are  even  more  ex- 
tensive. The  most  thorough  system  governs  these  estates  ;  and  their  large  forces  of  men  are 
organized  into  divisions,  each  with  its  superintendent  and  foreman  and  buildings,  and  all 
reporting  to  a  general  manager.  With  gang-plows,  seeders,  self-binding  harvesters,  steam  - 
threshers  and  other  modern  implements,  the  cost  of  raising  wheat  has  been  reduced  to  35 
cents  a  bushel.  The  wheat  of  North  Dakota  is  unexcelled  in  quality,  and  has  been  culti- 
vated on  a  broad  and  cheap  scale.  The  Red-River  region  is  a  vast  level  deposit  of  10,000 
square  miles  of  the  richest  black  loam,  from  two  to  six  feet  deep,  broken  only  by  occasional 

small  "slews"  (sloughs),  and  dotted  with  little 
hamlets.  Three  fourths  of  this  precious  lake- 
basin  lies  in  North  Dakota,  forming  six  counties, 
and  containing  half  of  the  wealth  of  the  State. 
The  Sheyenne  and  James  Valleys  are  rolling 
prairies  of  brown  loam,  bounded  by  low  hills, 
and  dotted  with  small  ponds.  West  of  the  Red 
River  the  soil  is  gently  rolling,  somewhat  sandy, 
and  more  dry.  The  Coteau  des  Prairies  begins  near 
BISMARCK;  HORTHERN  PACIFIC  BRIDGE.  the  James  River,  and  runs  over  into  Minnesota, 


FARGO   : 
CASS-COUNTY   COURT-HOUSE. 


THE   STATE   OF  NORTH  DAKOTA. 


657 


PYRAMID    PARK  : 
THE    BAD.  LANDS   OF   THE    LITTLE    MISSOURI. 


with  some  timber  and  vegetation,  and  many  alkaline  pools.     It  is  200  miles  long,  from  15 
to  20  miles  wide,  and  from  1,000  to  2,000  feet  above  the  sea. 

The  Plateau  du  Coteau  du  Missouri  is  a  great  grassy  table-land  entering  the  State  from 
Manitoba,  and  running  southward  between  the  Missouri  and  James  Rivers,  beginning  at 
2,000  feet  above  the  sea,  and  falling  away  on  the  south.  It  is  treeless  and  almost  without 
large  vegetation,  except  along  the  streams.  Masses  of  bowlders  crown  the  myriads  of 
strange-shaped  hills  and  ridges,  which  give  the  Coteau  the  appearance  of  a  stormy  sea 
changed  to  soil  when  at  its  wildest  fury.  The  crests  are  barren,  but  the  slopes  of  good 
brown  loam  are  valuable  for  wheat  or  for  grazing.  The  Coteau  covers  30,000  square  miles, 
and  is  sparsely  settled.  It  follows  around  the  great  bend  of  the  Missouri,  400  miles  long 
and  80  miles  wide,  and  as  seen  from  the  distant  prairies  forms  a  deep  blue  line  upon  the 
horizon.  The  Missouri  slope  sinks  away  in  waves 
of  rich  soil  from  the  crest  of  the  Coteau  to  the 
level  of  the  great  river,  250  feet  below.  The 
country  west  of  the  Missouri  slope  is  diversified 
by  strange  conical  buttes,  capped  with  sandstone, 
grassy  hills,  and  high  bluffs,  broken  by  open  veins 
of  brown  coal.  But  few  settlers  have  moved  into 
this  region. 

The  Bad  Lands  of  the  Little  Missouri  cover 
an  area  50  miles  long  and  30  miles  wide,  with 
huge  domes  and  pyramids,  spires  and  towers,  and 
statues  of  vividly  colored  clays  and  rocks,  rising 
by  thousands  from  the  grassy  glens,  amid  which,  and  sheltered  by  these  grotesque  buttes, 
myriads  of  cattle  and  sheep  graze  all  the  year  round.  Great  coal-beds  have  been  burning 
here  for  centuries,  turning  the  clay  hills  into  terra-cotta ;  and  in  places  the  fires  still  exist. 
Medora  is  the  metropolis  of  this  weird  region.  The  sinister  title  of  this  country  is  translated 
from  a  part  of  the  old  French  name  for  it,  Mauvaises  Terres  pour  Traverser,  which  referred 
not  to  the  quality  of  the  soil,  but  to  the  difficulty  of  travelling  through  this  fantastic  land. 

Devil's  Lake,  which  the  Indians  called  Minnewaukan  (Spirit  Water)  lies  in  the  north, 
and  is  55  miles  long,  with  an  extreme  width  of  six  miles.  The  well- wooded  and  gently 
sloping  shores  extend  for  280  miles,  with  many  a  fine  promontory,  enshrining  weird  old 
Sioux  legends.  A  steamboat  makes  daily  trips  from  the  prosperous  new  grain  and  live-stock 
city  of  Devil's  Lake  to  Minnewaukan  and  the  Government  post  of  Fort  Totten,  crossing  an 
inland  sea  as  green  and  about  one  fifth  as  salt  as  the  ocean,  and  without  an  outlet.  Stump 
Lake  winds  for  13  miles  between  abrupt  and  wooded  shores.  There  are  many  other  lakes 
in  the  north  and  east;  and  lonely  buttes  rise  high  over  the  unpopulated  plains.  The 
swirling  and  turbulent  Missouri  River  bends  around  through  a  great  part  of  the  State, 
affording  steamboat  navigation  for  1,200  miles  above  Bismarck,  to  Fort  Benton,  and  also 
downward  to  the  Mississippi.  The  river-boats  carry  from  60  to  200  tons  of  freight  each, 
and  draw  from  two  to  four  feet  of  water.  They  extricate  themselves  from  the  numberless 
sand-bars  by  climbing  up  on  poles,  ingeniously  arranged  for  the  purpose. 

The  Turtle  Mountains  come  in  on  the  north  from  Manitoba,  and  extend  over  800  square 

miles,  descending  to  the  south  in  gentle 
rolls,  and  largely  covered  with  dense  for- 
ests of  oaks,  elms  and  birches,  cut  by  ra- 
vines and  sparkling  streams,  and  haunted 
by  great  game.  The  chief  summits,  Butte 
St.  Paul  and  Bear  Butte,  rise  2,300  feet 
above  the  sea.  The  broad  black-loamed 
surrounding  prairie  is  inhabited  by  Cana- 
5RT  TOTTEN  AND  DEVIL'S  LAKE.  dians  and  half-breeds,  who  raise  good 


WHEAT-RAISING  I 


FOR    PLANTING. 


WHEAT-RAISING  I    SOWING    WHEAT- 


658  KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

crops  of  grain.  The  entire  western  part  of  the 
State,  including  nearly  half  of  its  area,  is  under- 
laid with  inexhaustible  deposits  of  lignite,  or 
soft  brown  coal,  valuable  for  domestic  use  and 
for  gas-making.  The  mines  at  Dickinson  and 
Burlington,  Minot  and  Sims  ship  yearly  many 
thousand  tons,  and  every  ranchman  has  his  own 
little  surface  mine,  for  home  use.  The  coal  area 
extends  from  the  Turtle  Mountains  to  the  Black 
Hills,  the  chief  developments  being  along  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  at  Bismarck. 

Farming. — The  Dakotas  lead  all  the  States  in  the  quantity  of  wheat  produced,  raising 
yearly  60,000,000  bushels  of  "No.  I  Hard."  The  quality  of  the  wheat  is  unrivalled.  It 
is  dry,  and  rich  in  albuminoids,  and  will  make  more  bread  —  and  more  nourishing  bread  — 
to  the  bushel,  than  any  other  wheat.  The  Department  of  Agriculture  declares  that  it  has 
"a  flavor  richer  than  any  other."  Winter  wheat  is  not  raised,  the  crops  including  only  the 
hard  spring  varieties.  This  immense  product  rules  the  markets  of  the  world.  It  commands 

p — --- — = — higher  prices  than  any  other  wheat,  and  is  raised 

at  less  expense,  from  cheap  land.  The  cost  of 
transportation  from  Dakota  to  Buffalo  is  but  15 
cents  a  bushel,  using  the  water-route  from  Du- 
luth.  The  flouring-mills  of  North  Dakota  ship 
their  surplus  product  to  London,  where  their 
agent  secures  for  it  a  higher  price  than  is  given  for  any  other  grade  of  flour.  The  climate 
and  soil  are  well  adapted  to  raising  corn  and  oats,  barley  and  rye,  and  the  best  of  potatoes. 
The  nutritious  grasses  formerly  nourished  many  millions  of  buffalo.  About  7,000  tons  of 

buffalo-bones,    representing    260,000    animals,    ,-,  -.-,..  -•  • — — - — .  ......  ..    - — - — 

have  been  shipped  from  Minot,  and  30  times 
that   number    from  the  other  railway  stations. 
The  State  now  has  nearly  400,  ooo  sheep.     There 
is  naturally  very  little  timber,  except  along  the 
rivers,  but  thousands  of  farmers  have  been  plant- 
ing groves  and  orchards,  and  the  prairies  are  now  WHEAT-RAISING  :  GATHERING  THE  SHEAVES. 
diversified  with  growing  forests.      In  the  two  Dakotas  50,000,000  trees  have  been  planted. 
In  1891  North  Dakota  yielded  65,000,000  bushels  of  wheat,  and  18,000,000  of  oats. 

The  Climate  is  influenced  by  the  Chinook  winds,  from  the  Pacific,  and  the  entire  State 
lies  below  the  line  of  50°  of  mean  yearly  temperature.  The  summers  have  hot  days  and 
cool  nights,  tempered  by  prairie  breezes  ;  and  the  winters  are  clear,  crisp  and  sunny,  with 
little  snow,  but  occasional  fierce  northern  blizzards. 

Government. — The  State  Capitol  (now  only  partly  built)  is  a  substantial  brick  edifice 
on  a  commanding  elevation  near  Bismarck,  and  contains  the  State  Library  and  historical 
collections.  The  National  Guard  includes  the  First  Regiment  of  Infantry  (seven  companies 
and  a  band),  and  a  battery  and  a  troop  of  cavalry.  The  Asylum  for  the  Insane,  at  James- 
town, cost  $500,000,  and  includes  also  the  Institute  for  the  Feeble-Minded.  The  Deaf  and 
Dumb  Asylum  is  at  Devil's  Lake ;  the  Blind  Asylum,  in  Pembina  County ;  and  the  Soldiers' 
Home,  at  Lisbon.  The  Penitentiary  is  at  Bismarck  ;  and  the  Reform  School,  at  Mandan. 

The  United-States  military  posts  are  Forts 
Abraham  Lincoln,  Buford,  Totten,  Pembina 
and  Yates,  occupied  by  700  soldiers.  The  In- 
dian reservations  are  at  Devil's  Lake,  with  1,000 
Cut-Head  Sioux;  Turtle  Mountain,  with  1,400 
Chippewas  and  half-breeds  ;  Fort  Berthold,  with 
WHEAT-RAISING  :  THRESHING.  5°°  Gros  Ventres,  450  Arickarees  and  250 


THE  STATE   OF  NORTH  DAKOTA. 


659 


NEAR   CASSELTON. 


Mandans  ;  and  part  of  the  Standing- Rock 
Sioux  Reservation.  Religious,  educational 
and  industrial  agencies  are  continually  at 
work  among  these  savages,  endeavoring 
to  change  them  into  peaceful  and  indus- 
trious farmers. 

Education. — The  public-schools  have 
2,000  teachers,  and  cost  $500,000  a  year. 
The  value  of  the  school-property  is  about 
$1,300,000.  The  University  of  North 
Dakota,  opened  near  Grand  Forks  in  1884, 
provides  free  tuition  in  the  arts  and  sciences 
for  young  people  of  the  State.  The  cost  of  a  high  education  is  probably  less  than  at  any 
similar  institution  in  the  world.  The  School  of  Mines  is  attached  to  this  institution. 
The  University  has  36  students,  besides  1 80  in  the  normal  and  preparatory  departments. 
The  Congregationalists  have  a  college  at  Fargo ;  the  Presbyterians,  at  Jamestown  ;  the 
Baptists,  at  Tower  City ;  and  there  are  also  Lutheran  and  Methodist  colleges.  The  normal 
schools  are  at  Valley  City  and  Mayville ;  the  Scientific  School,  at  Wahpeton ;  the  School 
of  Forestry  ;  the  Agricultural  College  at  Fargo  ;  and  the  Industrial  School  at  Ellendale. 

Chief  Cities. — Bismarck,  the  capital,  slopes  from  the  low  encircling  hills  down  to  the 
broad  brown  Missouri,  which  is  here  crossed  by  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad,  on  a  million- 
dollar  steel  bridge ;  and  the  Great  Northern  Railway 
also  crosses  here.  It  has  a  valuable  steamboat  com- 
merce, and  is  the  headquarters  of  the  Missouri- River 
Transportation  Company  and  the  northern  terminus 
of  the  Milwaukee  Railway  system.  Bismarck  began 
in  1872,  in  a  region  which  is  even  yet  thinly  settled. 
Mandan,  on  the  other  side  of  the  river,  has  railway  shops  and  elevators.  Fargo,  where  the 
Northern  Pacific  crosses  the  Red  River,  is  one  of  the  chief  financial  and  commercial  cities 
of  North  Dakota,  with  a  variety  of  profitable  manufactures. 

Farther  down  the  Red  River  are  the  busy  flour  and  lumber  mills  and  the  public  build- 
ings of  Grand  Forks,  where  the  Great  Northern  Railway  crosses  the  stream.  The  Red-Lake 
River  and  the  Red  River  here  form  the  "Grand  Forks,5'  once  so  puzzling  to  the  voyageurs. 
Pembina,  on  the  Red  River,  and  close  to  the  Manitoba  frontier,  was  settled  by  Lord  Sel- 
kirk's Scottish  colonists,  after  they  had  been  expelled  from  Winnipeg  by  the  French-Cana- 
dians. This  region  is  mostly  occupied  by  Canadians,  Scotch  and  French  half-breeds, 
Norwegians  and  Icelanders,  and  produces  in  its  "nine  months  winter  and  three  months  late- 
in-the-fall"  copious  crops  of  wheat.  Jamestown  is  in  the  wonderful  artesian  belt  of  the 
James- River  valley,  at  the  intersection  of  several  railways,  and  with  a  large  trade.  Valley 
City,  Devil's  Lake,  Casselton,  Wahpeton,  Lisbon  and  La  Moure  are  important  towns. 
Dazey  is  named  for  Charles  Turner  Dazey,  the  poet. 

The  active  immigration  induced  by  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  into  Manitoba  since 
1883-4  resulted  fortunately  for  the  neighboring  American  State.  The  immigrants  found 
that  the  cost  of  living  was  very  high,  and  therefore  thousands  of  them  drifted  southward 
across  the  border,  where  more  favorable  con- 


ditions prevailed,  and  took  out  papers  as 
citizens  of  the  United  States.  There  is  a 
strong  general  sentiment  in  favor  of  recip- 
rocity of  trade  between  North  Dakota, 
Minnesota  and  Manitoba. 

The  Railway  System  of  North  Dakota 
began  in   1872,  when  the   Northern  Pacific 


GRAND    FORKS  :     UNIVERSITY   OF    NORTH    DAKOTA. 


BISMARCK  :    THE   CAPITAL  OF   NORTH    DAKOTA. 


66o 


A'LVG  '5  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STA  TES. 


FARGO  :     MORTGAGE    BANK   AND    INVESTMENT    CO. 


line  crossed  the  Red  River  of  the  North.  This  route  now  traverses  the  entire  State,  from 
east  to  west,  nearly  on  the  47th  parallel ;  and  has  several  branches  diverging  on  either  side. 
The  Great  Northern  Railway  crosses  the  State  near  the  48th  parallel,  from  Grand  Forks  to 
Devil's  Lake,  and  thence  to  Fort  Buford,  on  the  Upper  Missouri  and  the  Montana  frontier. 
It  has  lines  following  the  American  section  of  the  famous  Red-River  Valley,  on  both  the 
eastern  and  western  sides ;  and  branches  running  into  the  Turtle-Mountain  country,  and  in 
various  other  directions.'  The  Chicago,  Milwaukee  &  St. -Paul  system  controls  several  lines 
in  the  southeast.  Steamboats  ply  on  the  Red  River  of  the  North,  from  Grand  Forks, 
Fargo,  and  other  points  down  to  Winnipeg  and  the  towns  of  Manitoba.  The  steamboats 
on  the  Missouri  River  have  a  season  of  navigation  lasting  for  eight  months  every  year. 

The  transformation  of  North  Dakota  from  a  desolation,  occupied  only  by  Indians  and 
buffalo,  to  an  enterprising  modern  State,  covered  with  farms  and  dotted  with  villages,  has 

rendered  necessary  a  large  transference  of  capital 
from  eastern  sources.  From  this  circumstance, 
several  active  financial  institutions  have  arisen, 
inside  the  frontiers  of  the  new  State ;  and  promi- 
nent among  these  is  the  Mortgage  Bank  and  In- 
vestment Company,  established  at  Fargo  in  1886, 
and  incorporated  in  1887.  This  corporation  pays 
liberal  dividends,  usually  amounting  to  at  least  ten 
per  cent,  a  year,  and  paid  quarterly  by  draft  on  New 
York.  There  are  more  than  1,000  shareholders, 
including  professional  and  business  men  in  all 
parts  of  the  country.  The  paid-in  capital  is  over 
$300,000,  with  a  growing  surplus  and  increasing  deposits.  The  bank  has  from  its  founda- 
tion had  E.  Ashley  Mears  as  president,  and  William  B.  Mears  as  cashier.  .It  jointly  owns  and 
occupies  with  the  National  Bank  of  North  Dakota,  the  handsomest  bank  building  in  the  State. 

' '  Dakota  in  length  and  breadth,  in  population,  in  area,  in  wealth  and  in  progress  stands 
unexampled  in  the  annals  of  mankind  for  material,  political,  and,  I  may  say,  intellectual  and 
spiritual,  advancement.  Her  surface  is  nearly  all  arable  land.  It  is  easily  tilled  and  miracu- 
lously productive.  There  is  no  necessity  to  clear  trees  and  remove  stumps.  The  old  forts, 
Sitting  Bull,  and  all  the  wilderness  of  early  days,  have  given  way  to  cities  and  towns,  and 
railroads,  and  farms ;  and  a  population  larger  than  that  of  many  States,  looms  up  in 
majestic  proportions,  with  all  the  paraphernalia  of  government,  and  all  the  refinement  of 
Christian  civilization.  This  energetic  and  hopeful  people  have  in  their  veins  the  vigorous 
blood  of  many  races.  They  have  inherited  the  material,  intellectual  and  moral  triumph  of 
the  old  and  new  worlds  and  their  civilizations.  They  have  settled  upon  soil  which  has  no 
rival  in  richness  and  no  peer  in  production. " — HON.  S.  S.  Cox. 

"A  land  of  majestic  dimensions,  of  fruit-trees  and  vineyards,  of  lowing  kine  and  golden 
grain  ;  under  the  feet  a  carpet  of  flowers  bespangled  with  gold-dust,  and  the  most  crystalline 

of  heavens  bending  above.  — — — : — -  -  .,-;:Jj,.^., — — — ^ 

She  has  a  mighty  interest 
in  the  destiny  of  the  Re- 
public, and  in  the  achieve- 
ment of  that  destiny  she 
should  bear  no  ignoble 
share.  ...  In  new- 
world  advancement,  hers 
is,  and  should  be,  a  glori- 
ous mission,  a  sublime 
work.  COL.  DONAN. 


The  valley  of  the  Ohio 

was   in   very  remote   days 

occupied  by  an  active  and 

widely  scattered  race,  whose 

remains  show  that  in  many 

respects    they    were    more 

advanced  than  the  modern 

Indians.    They  farmed  in  a 

large  way;  opened  mines, 

and  wrought  in  metals;  and 

had  rather  complex  villages,  with  permanent  fortifications. 
Otherwise  they  differed  but  little  from  the  Indians.  The 
mounds  and  ancient  works  at  Circleville,  Marietta  and 
many  other  places,  commemorate  this  mysterious  vanished 
race.  In  Adams  County  is  the  great  Serpent  Mound,  an 
embankment  in  the  form  of  a  winding  snake  many  rods  in 
length.  This  wonderful  memorial  of  antiquity,  with  the 
surrounding  land,  belongs  to  Harvard  University. 

After  the  Mound-builders  vanished  (whether  by  de- 
struction or  amalgamation),  the  Ohio  tribes,  the  Wyan- 
dots,  Shawnees  and  others,  suffered  from  the  appalling 
ferocity  of  the  Iroquois  Confederacy,  whose  warriors  used 
to  descend  the  river  from  time  to  time,  and  carry  murder 
and  rapine  among  its  people.  The  hostile  and  warlike  Iro- 
quois shut  out  the  French  explorers  from  the  Erie  and  Ohio 
Valleys,  and  compelled  them  to  visit  the  far  West  by  the 
Ottawa  River  and  Georgian  Bay.  But  in  1669  Joliet,  re- 
turning from  his  explorations,  became  the  first  white  man 
to  see  and  travel  on  Lake  Erie,  and  thus  Ohio  became,  by 
right  of  discovery,  a  part  of  New  France,  that  vast  do- 
main extending  from  Labrador  to  the  Mississippi  River, 
and  covering  also  much  of  the  Carolinas  and  Georgia. 
Northern  Ohio  was  occupied  as  early  as  1680  by  French 
fur-traders,  sent  out  by  Governor-General  Frontenac,  and 

with  their  first  station  near  Maumee  City,  followed  by  others  at  Sandusky  and  Cuyahoga. 
In  1749  the  Marquis  de  la  Gallisoniere  warned  all  English  settlers  out  of  Ohio,  and  Major 
Celeron  formally  took  possession  in  the  name  of  Louis  XV.,  burying  inscribed  leaden 


STATISTICS. 

Settled  at Marietta. 

Settled  in 1788 

Founded  by  .  .  New  Englanders. 
Admitted  as  a  State,  .  .  .  1802 
Population  in  1860,  .  .  .  2,339,511 

In  1870, 2,665,260 

In  1880, 3,198,062 

White, 3,"7,920 

Colored, 80,142 

American-born,     .     .     .2,803,119 
Foreign-born,    ....     394,943 

Males, 1,613,936 

Females, 1,584,126 

In  1890  (U.  S.  Census),      .  3,672,316 
Population  to  the  square  mile,      78.5 
Voting  Population,      .     .     .     826,577 
Vote  for  Harrison  (1888),       416,054 
Vote  for  Cleveland  (1888),      396,455 
Net  State  Debt,      .     .     .    $7,014,767 
Assessed  Valuation  of 

Property  (1890),  .  .  $1,778,000,000 
Area  (square  miles),  ....  41,060 
U.  S.  Representatives  (in  1893),  21 
Militia  (Disciplined),  .  .  5,110 

Counties, 88 

Post-offices, 3,166 

Railroads  (miles),  ....         7,9J2 

Vessels 4«° 

Tonnage 226,540 

Manufactures  (yearly),     $348,305,690 

Operatives, 183,609 

Yearly  Wages,     .     .        $62,103,800 
Farm  Land  (in  acres),     .     24,529,226 
Farm-Land  Values,    $i,  127,497,353 
Farm  Products  (yearly)  SU56,777>I52 
Public  Schools,  Average 
Daily  Attendance,  .     .     .      530,492 

Newspapers, M39 

Latitude.  .  .  .  38°23' to  41058' N. 
Longitude,  .  .  8o°3i'  to84*48/W 
Temperature,  ...  —28°  to  104° 
Mean  Temperature  (Columbus),  53° 

TEN  CHIEF  CITIES  AND    THEIR  POP- 
ULATIONS (CENSUS  OF   1890). 

Cincinnati, 296,908 

Cleveland, 261,353 

Columbus, 88,150 

Toledo 81,434 

Dayton 61,220 

Youngstown, 33.22O 

Springfield, 31,895 

Akron, 27,601 

Canton, 26,189 

Zanesville, 21,009 


662 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 


MARIETTA  :      MARIETTA    COLLEGE. 


plates  along  the  Allegheny  and  Ohio  Rivers.  The  first 
important  American  advance  toward  Ohio  came  from 
a  singular  quarter,  having  been  achieved  by  Carolinian 
traders,  descending  the  Tennessee  and  Cumberland 
Rivers,  as  early  as  1682.  Forty  years  later,  after  the 
Delawares  and  Shawnees  had  been  driven  westward 
from  the  Lehigh  Valley,  swarms  of  Pennsylvanian 
traders  and  blacksmiths  crossed  the  Allegheny  Mount- 
ains to  their  villages.  Among  the  white  people  in  Ohio 
before  settlement  began  were  many  refugees,  renegades, 
deserters  and  captives,  who  had  been  adopted  into  the  native  tribes.  There  were  also  a  few 
singular  hermits,  like  the  one  named  Johnny  Appleseed,  a  quaint  Swedenborgian  recluse,  who 
rambled  alone  on  foot  over  a  great  part  of  Ohio,  with  a  bag  of  apple-seeds,  planting  orchards 
wherever  he  could  find  or  clear  a  favoring  place.  Among  the  chief  actors  in  the  Ohio  drama 
for  many  years  appeared  French  officers,  Virginian  and  Pennsylvanian  emissaries  and  traders, 
Miami  and  Delaware  chieftains,  and  other  picturesque  characters.  The  King  of  England  in 
1763,  after  the  annexation  of  French  America,  proclaimed  Ohio  and  the  new  conquest  beyond 
to  be  outside  of  all  existing  provinces,  and  "under  the  king's  sovereignty,  protection  and  do- 
minion, for  the  use  of  the  Indians."  But  it  was  necessary  for  Col.  Bouquet  to  march  from 
Pittsburgh  to  the  Muskingum,  with  parts  of  the  42d  (Highlanders)  and  6oth  British  regiments 
and  700  Provincials,  and  compel  the  savages  to  give  up  206  white  captives.  In  1774  the  Earl 
of  Dunmore  led  an  army  of  Virginians  into  the  Scioto  Valley ;  and  in  the  ^  same  year 
Ohio  was  annexed  to  the  Province  of  Quebec.  During  one  of  the 
gloomiest  periods  of  the  Revolution,  an  American  general  asked  what 
should  be  done  if  the  king's  troops,  aided  by  the  rumored  Russian 
alliance,  should  drive  the  Continental  army  from  the  States.  And 
Washington  answered  :  "We  will  retire  to  the  valley  of  the  Ohio, 
and  there  we  will  be  free."  Virginia  claimed  all  of  Ohio  (as  well 
as  of  Indiana  and  Illinois),  according  to  her  charter  given  by  King 
James  I.  in  1609;  and  Connecticut  claimed  Ohio  north  of  41°,  CLEVELAND:  LIGHTHOUSE. 
by  Charles  II.  's  charter  of  1662.  These  ancient  claims  by  conquest  and  royal  charter  were 
ceded  to  the  United  States.  The  Western  Reserve,  of  3,666,921  acres,  extending  for  120 
miles  west  of  Pennsylvania,  and  north  of  41°,  was  retained  by  Connecticut  until  1792-5, 
when  she  granted  500,000  acres  (the  Firelands)  to  her  people  whose  homes  had  been  burned 
by  invading  armies  in  the  Revolution ;  and  alienated  the  remainder  for  a  school- fund.  In 
1800  she  surrendered  all  jurisdictional  rights.  Virginia  reserved  from  her  cession  3,709,848 
acres  between  the  Ohio,  Scioto  and  Miami  Rivers,  and  below,  for  military  bounty  lands ;  and 
in  1783  also  relinquished  her  jurisdiction.  New  York  claimed  Ohio  as  hers,  by  virtue  of  its 
ancient  conquest  by  her  Iroquois  tribes,  but  yielded  this  right  to  the  General  Government. 

The  "pioneers,"  as  those  were  called  who  came  to  the  Northwest  after  the  Territorial 
and  State  Governments  had  been  established,  seem  to  have  been  ignorant  that  any  white 
people  had  preceded  them,  and  had  many  traditions  and  controversies  as  to  the  "first  white 

child"  born  in  the  territory.  How  much  they  were  mis- 
taken appears  from  the  references  which  have  already  been 
made  to  the  French  and  Pennsylvanian  traders  and  the  cap- 
tives who  had  intermarried  and  amalgamated  with  them 
and  the  Indian  tribes,  before  the  middle  of  the  last  century. 
But  besides  these,  the  missionaries  had  founded  their  mis- 
sion villages  on  the  upper  Muskingum  prior  to  the  Revo- 
lutionary War,  and  well  deserve  to  be  remembered  and 
honored  as  the  "Pilgrims  of  Ohio."  The  ruthless  catas- 
BIRTHPLACE  OF  u.  s.  GRANT  trophes  by  which  they  were  destroyed  also  serve  to 


THE  STATE   OF   OHIO. 

remind  us  that  about  the  time  of  the  Revolutionary  War  the  perpetrators, 
a  considerable  white  population  of  speculators  and  squatters,  had  pos- 
sessed themselves  of  the  best  lands  and  the  salt  springs  in  the  southeastern 
quarter  of  Ohio,  and  in  defiance  of  the  civil  and  military  authorities  of 
the  United  States  had  actually  organized  themselves  into  a  sort  of  local 
government.  These,  associated  with  a  similar  population  of  outlaws 
from  the  Virginia  side  of  the  Ohio  River,  were  the  most  savage  foes  of  the 
Moravian  missions. 

The  first  permanent  settlement  came  from  the  Ohio  Company,  a  band 
of  New-England  veterans  of  the  Revolutionary  War,  who  paid  the  Gov- 
ernment $1,000,000  in  Continental  scrip  for  1,500,000  acres  on  the  Ohio, 
between  the  Muskingum  and  the  Hocking.  In  1788,  Gen.  Rufus  Putnam  founded  the 
fortified  town  of  Marietta  (named  for  Marie  Antoinette),  at  the  mouth  of  the  Muskingum. 
High  up  on  the  Youghiogheny  River,  in  Pennsylvania,  these  New-England  men  built  the 
galley  Mayflower,  with  a  heavy  plank-roof,  to  resist  Indian  rifle-balls.  And  thus  the  new 
pilgrims  of  the  West  floated  down  the  Yough,  the  Allegheny  and  the  Ohio,  to  their  future 
homes.  In  1788  John  Cleves  Symmes  applied  for  1,000,000  acres  along  the  Ohio,  between 
the  two  Miamis;  and  here  a  town  arose  in  1788,  bearing  the  name  of  Losantiville  (L  for 


CLEVELAND  : 

TATUE  OF  GEN.  MOSES 

CLEAVELAND. 


the  Lick- 
Opposite 
ing  title 
Symmes 
Cincin  - 
at  the  lat- 
the  head- 


ing  River ;  os,  "mouth";  anti,  "opposite";  ville,  "city,"  or  "The  City 
the  Mouth  of  the  Licking  River").     Gov.  St.  Clair  replaced  this  amaz- 
with  the  name  Cincinnati,  in  honor  of  the  military  Order  of  the  Cincinnati. 
City  arose  nearly  at  the  same  time,  at   North  Bend,  and  hotly  rivalled 
nati,  until  the  United- States  garrison  of  Fort  Washington  was  established 
ter   town,  and   gave  it  the  lead.      At  Marietta  Gen.    St.  Clair  set  up 
quarters  of  the  Northwest  Territory,  in  1788,  and  founded  the  first  civil 
government  west  of  the  Alleghanies.     The  Territory  North- 
'west  of  the  River  Ohio  included  Indiana,  Illinois,  Michigan, 
Wisconsin  and  Minnesota  east  of  the  Mississippi.     The  re- 
markable Ordinance  of    1787,  creating  this  government,  in- 
eluded  the  clause  :  "There  shall  be  neither  slavery  nor  invol- 
untary  servitude  in  said  territory,  otherwise  than  in  punish - 
meat  of   crimes,   whereof  the  party  shall   have   been   duly 
convicted."     This  enactment  secured  that  personal  liberty 
CLEVELAND:  SOLDIERS-  MONUMENT,    which  afterwards  spread  over  the  entire  Republic.      In  1800 
the  Northwest  Territory  was  cut  down  to  the  present  area  of  Ohio  and  eastern  Michigan ; 
and  in  1803  it  lost  the  Michigan  part,  and  became  a  State,  to  which  the  Toledo  region  was 
annexed  in  1836,  after  a  bitter  disputation  with  Michigan. 

For  many  years  the  Indians  of  Ohio  endeavored  to  check  the  white  invaders  by  mur- 
derous forays  and  massacres.  The  country  between  the  Miamis  won  the  perilous  name  of 
"The  Miami  Slaughter-pen."  The  lake  shore  remained  unoccupied,  because  of  the  hostile 
Englishmen  and  Indians,  until  1796,  when  Moses  Cleaveland  and  52  Connecticut  people 
founded  Cleveland.  In  1790  Gen.  Harrnar  marched  against  the  Indians  with  1,450  soldiers, 
and  suffered  a  reverse.  A  year  later  Gen.  St.  Clair 
led  2,000  troops  into  interior  Ohio,  and  met  with 
an  appalling  defeat.  In  1794  Gen.  Wayne  ad- 
vanced with  the  famous  Legion  of  the  United 
States,  and  crushed  the  Indian  power  forever,  at 
the  battle  of  the  Maumee.  After  this  blow  the 
Indian  nations  signed  the  treaty  of  Greenville, 
ceding  to  the  Republic  nearly  all  Ohio,  besides 
parts  of  Indiana  and  Michigan,  and  they  never 
afterward  violated  the  limits  thus  fixed.  New  PUT-IN-BAY  AND  LAKE  ERIE. 


664 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 


CLEVELAND  :     THE    POST-OFFICE. 


lines  of  towns  sprang  up  in  the  interior,  thus  relieved 
from  the  apprehension  of  savage  hostilities.  Gen.  Day- 
ton founded.  Dayton  in  1796;  and  in  the  same  year  anti- 
slavery  Kentuckians  established  Chillicothe,  the  capital  of 
"New  Virginia."  Then  also  the  British  garrisons  evacu- 
IE?_  ated  northwestern  Ohio ;  and  the  last  buffalo  was  killed 
in  the  Hocking  valley.  Ebenezer  Zane  of  Wheeling 
founded  Zanesville  in  1 799.  The  Firelands  were  surveyed 
and  opened  for  colonization  by  Taylor  Sherman  of  Connecticut,  grandfather  of  William 
Tecumseh  and  John  Sherman.  Within  a  few  years  Marietta  built  at  her  ship-yards  a  score 
of  sea-going  vessels,  and  sent  them  to  foreign  ports,  down  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi,  and 
out  over  the  Atlantic.  Great  fleets  of  flat-boats  and  keel-boats  carried  the  produce  of  the 
infant  State  to  New  Orleans,  the  keel-boats  returning  with  cargoes  of  foreign  goods.  In 
1811  the  first  steamboat,  the  Orleans,  descended  the  Ohio,  from  Pittsburgh,  many  of  the 
rustics  supposing  that  it  was  a  comet,  and  others  fleeing  to  the  hills,  with  the  cry :  "The 
British  are  coming!"  In  1810  the  steamboat  Walk-in-the-  Water  began  the  vast  steam- 
navigation  of  the  lakes,  traversing  Lake  Erie  westward  from  Buffalo. 

The  early  history  of  Ohio  abounds  in  interesting  episodes,  like  the  hideous  massacre  of 
the  Moravian  Indians,  at  Gnadenhiitten,  by  American  border-ruffians,  in  1782;  the  vast 
and  wide-spread  conspiracies  of  chieftains  like  Pontiac  and  Tecumseh ;  the  Spanish  in- 
trigues to  gain  possession  of  the  Ohio  Valley ;  the  obscure 
plot  of  Aaron  Burr,  whose  fleet  for  the  conquest  of  the 
Southwest  was  built  at  Marietta ;  and  the  establishment  of 
the  Mormon  Church  at  Kirtland,  where  Brigham  Young 
entered  its  apostolate.  But  the  most  arduous  struggles  of 
the  pioneers  were  not  with  Indians  or  fanatics,  but  with  the 
forests  and  the  bad  roads.  The  houses  were  log- huts  of  a 
single  room,  with  earthen  floors,  windows  of  greased  paper, 
and  chinks  daubed  with  clay ;  food  of  ash-cakes  and  hoe- 
cakes,  dodgers  and  pones ;  furniture  hewn  from  beech  and 
poplar,  with  bear-skin  beds  and  buckeye  bowls  and  plat- 
ters;  and  clothing  from  deer-skins,  tow-linen  and  jeans,  dyed  with  walnut  and  butternut. 
The  chief  pastimes  were  bear-hunts  and  sugar-camps,  militia-musters  and  quarter-races, 
shooting-matches  and  quilting-parties,  weddings  and  house-warmings,  camp-meetings  and 
travelling  museums.  The  itinerant  school-masters  and  circuit-riding  preachers  of  those 
arduous  days  laid  the  foundation  of  the  cultivation  and  religion  of  the  modern  State. 

When  the  War  of  1812  broke  out,  Ohio  sent  promptly  into  the  field  Me  Arthur's  regi- 
ment from  the  Scioto,  Findlay's  from  the  Miami,  and  Lewis  Cass's  from  the  Muskingum. 
Gen.  Hull's  ill-fated  army  marched  from  Urbana  to  the  Maumee,  fortifying  Kenton  and 
Findlay,  After  Detroit  fell  the  British  invaded  Ohio,  and  were 
gallantly  repulsed  at  Fort  Meigs,  on  the  Maumee,  and  Fort  Cro- 
ghan  (now  Fremont).  At  the  outbreak  of  the  late  civil  war 
60,000  Ohioans  volunteered,  and  Gen.  McClellan  received  com- 
mand of  the  State  troops.  Two  regiments  went  to  Washington, 
and  McClellan  took  ten  regiments  and  drove  the  south- 
erners from  West  Virginia.  At  the  end  of  1863  the 
State  had  200,000  soldiers  in  the  field,  and  retained 
also  the  organized  Ohio  Militia  of  168,000  men,  and 
the  armed  and  disciplined  Ohio  Volunteer  Militia 
of  44,000.  In  the  critical  time  of  1864,  at  1 6  days' 
notice,  Ohio  sent  40  new  regiments  into  the  field. 
CINCINNATI  :  POST-OFFICE.  The  troops  called  for  aggregated  306,322,  and  the 


SPRINGFIELD  :    POST-OFFICE. 


THE  STA  TE  OF  OHIO.  6<55 

State  actually  furnished  319,659,  or  more  than  one  tenth  of  the  National  armies.   25,000 
died  in  the    service  and  40,000  were  wounded.      Ohio  had  30  regiments  at  Vicksburg,  39 


34  with 
storming 


LIMA  I  COURT-HOUSE. 


in  the  Army  of  the  Cumberland,  1 1  in  Sheridan's  Shenandoah  campaigns, 
Thomas  at  Nashville,  45  with  Sherman  in  the  Carolinas,  43  at  the 
of  Mission  Ridge,  and  13  at  Gettysburg.  Among  the  gen- 
erals of  Ohio  birth  or  training,  were  Grant,  Sherman, 
Sheridan,  McPherson,  Buell,  Rosecrans,  Gilmore,  Mc- 
Dowell and  Cox.  When  Kirby  Smith's  Confederate  army 
menaced  Cincinnati,  in  1862,  more  than  15,000  "squirrel- 
hunters"  from  rural  Ohio  poured  into  that  city,  without 
uniforms  or  organization,  and  armed  with  their  own  old- 
fashioned  rifles.  Nearly  a  year  later,  John  Morgan's  Con- 
federate cavalry  rode  across  15  counties  of  southern  Ohio, 
galled  by  the  militia,  pursued  by  National  troops,  and  finally  captured. 

The  Name  Oheo  means  "How  Beautiful  !  "  and  was  applied  by  the  Senecas  of  Lake  Erie 
to  the  combined  river  Allegheny-Ohio.  The  Wyandots  called  it  Ohee-zuh,  "the  grand." 
The  French  explorers  retained  the  Iroquois  name,  spelling  it  Oyo,  and  translating  it,  liter- 
ally, La  Belle  Riviere,  "The  Beautiful  River."  A  popular  name  for  Ohio  is  THE  BUCKEYE 
STATE,  in  recognition  of  the  multitudes  of  buckeye  trees  (Aesculus  flava  or  glabra)  found 
within  its  borders.  The  nuts  of  this  tree  resemble  a  buck's  eye.  The 
people  of  the  State  have  also  long  been  called  Buckeyes.  Before  1820 
Ohio  was  generally  called  THE  YANKEE  STATE  by  the  Kentuck- 
ians  and  Virginians,  mainly  on  account  of  its  free  institutions. 

The  Arms  of  Ohio  display  a  bundle  of  17  arrows  and  a  sheaf 
of  wheat,  both  standing  erect,  and  in  the  background  a  range  of 
mountains,  with  the  sun  rising  over  them.  The  supporters  are  a 
farmer  and  a  smith,  with  their  implements.  The  motto  is : 
IMPERIUM  IN  IMPERIO  ;  "An  Empire  within  an  Empire." 

The  Governors  of  Ohio  have  been :  Territorial:  Arthur 
St.  Clair,  1788-1802;  Chas.  W.  Byrd,  (acting)  1802-3.  State: 
Edward  Tiffin,  1803-7;  Thos.  Kirker,  (acting)  1807-8;  Samuel 
Huntington,  1808-10;  Return  Jonathan  Meigs,  1810-14;  Othniel 
Looker,  (acting)  1814;  Thos.  Worthington,  1814-18;  Ethan 
Allen  Brown,  1 818-22;  Allen  Trimble,  (acting)  1822 ;  Jeremiah 
Morrow,  1822-26;  Allen  Trimble,  1826-30;  Duncan  Me  Arthur, 
11830-32;  Robert  Lucas,  1832-36;  Jos.  Vance,  1836-38;  Wilson  Shannon,  1838-40  and 
1842-44;  Thos.  Corwin;  1840-42;  Thos.  W.  Bartley,  (acting)  1844;  Mordecai  Bartley, 
(1844-46;  Wm.  Bebb,  1846-49;  Seabury  Ford,  1849-50;  Reuben  Wood,  1850-53;  Wm. 
Medill,  1853-56;  Salmon  P.  Chase,  1856-60;  Wm.  Dennison,  1860-62;  David  Tod,  1862- 
•64;  John  Brough,  1864-5 ;  Chas.  Anderson,  (acting) 
,1865-66;  Jacob  D.  Cox,  1866-68;  Rutherford  B. 
Hayes,  1868-72  and  1876-77;  Edward  F.  Noyes, 
1872-74;  Wm.  Allen,  1874-76;  Thos.  L.  Young, 
11877-78;  Richard  M.  Bishop,  1878-80;  Charles 
(Foster,  1880-84;  George  Hoadly,  1884-86 ;  Joseph  B. 
Foraker,  1886-90;  James  E.  Campbell,  1890-92;  and 
Wm.  McKinley,  Jr.,  1892-4. 

Descriptive. —  Ohio  is  the  fourth  State  in  popula- 
tion and  wealth,  and  extends  for  about  225  miles  east 
and  west,  and  210  miles  north  and  south  from  Michi- 
gan and  Lake  Erie  to  Kentucky  and  West  Virginia.  It 
covers  a  larger  area  than  Virginia,  Kentucky  or  Maine.  BELMONT-COUNTY  COURT-HOUSE. 


CINCINNATI  : 
HAMILTON-CO.    COURT-HOUSE. 


666 


KING^S  HANDBOOK   OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


CINCINNATI  : 
QUEEN-CITY    CLUB. 


A  range  of  hills  traverses  the  State  from  below  the  northeastern  corner  to  the  Indiana 
line  near  Greenville,  reaching  its  main  height  near  Zoar,  1,491  feet  above  the  sea.  This 
ridge  forms  the  divide  between  the  Lake-Erie  and  Ohio-River  waters, 
with  great  plains  sloping  gradually  away  on  the  north  and  south. 
In  the  centre  and  northwest  the  first  settlers  found  extensive  wet 
prairies,  carpeted  with  grasses  and  bright  flowers  and  wild  rice,  and 
diversified  by  island-like  groves  of  black-jack.  There  were  also  val- 
uable dry  prairies,  like  the  Pickaway  Plains,  all  ready  for  the  plough. 
The  soil  is  a  productive  loam,  which  has  borne  noble  harvests  for 
nearly  a  century.  The  valleys  are  composed  of  fertile  alluvium  and 
drift,  on  which  corn  thrives  amazingly.  The  valleys  of  the  Musk- 
ingum,the  Scioto  and  the  two  Miamis  are  very  productive,  the  latter  being  an  extension  of  the 
blue-grass  country  of  Kentucky.  In  the  south  the  rivers  have  cut  gorges  in  the  plateau, 
with  rounded  bluffs  and  deep  glens,  overarched  by  ancient  forests.  The  high  hills 
along  the  Ohio  abound  in  picturesque  and  smiling  beauty,  and  attain  a  height  of  600  feet. 
The  Ohio  River  is  1,265  miles  long,  from  its  remotest  source  in  New  York,  and  975  miles 
long,  from  its  formation  by  the  confluence  of  the  Allegheny  and  Monongahela  Rivers  at 
Pittsburgh.  It  drains  214,000  square  miles,  descending  from  697  feet  high  at  Pittsburgh  to 
269  feet  at  Cairo,  with  a  current  of  from  one  to  three  miles  an  hour.  Into  the  Mississippi  it 
pours  a  much  greater  quantity  of  water  than  the  Missouri.  There  are  5,000  miles  of 
navigable  streams  in  the  Ohio-River  system.  The  floods  in 
this  great  stream  are  often  destructive,  rising  to  a  height  of 
63  feet  above  low- water  mark.  The  river  widens  from  1,000 
feet,  above  Gallipolis,  to  1,600  feet  at  Cincinnati,  and  3,000 
feet  at  Cairo  ;  and  for  436  miles  it  flows  along  the  south- 
ern border  of  the  State,  navigable  at  all  times,  although 
in  late  summer  and  autumn  the  sand-bars  and  towhead 
islands  are  annoying  to  the  pilots,  and  keep  large  steam- 
boats below  Wheeling.  The  chief  streams  on  the  south 
are  the  Mahoning ;  the  Muskingum,  sometimes  navigable 
for  no  miles  to  Coshocton ;  the  Little  Miami  and  Big 
Miami;  the  Scioto,  200  miles  long;  and  the  Hockhocking.  Lake  Erie  receives  the  «Mau- 
mee  (the  ancient  Miami  of  the  Lakes),  on  which  large  steamboats  ascend  to  Perrysburg,  1 8 
miles  (and  sometimes  to  Defiance,  60  miles) ;  the  Sandusky,  navigable  to  Fremont,  1 7 
miles ;  and  the  Huron,  Black,  Vermilion,  Cuyahoga,  Rocky,  Chagrin,  Grand,  and  other 
streams.  The  interior  rivers  are  valuable  for  their  water-power,  and  contain  many  rapids, 
near  which  factories  have  risen.  Lake  Erie,  the  fourth  of  the  Great  Lakes  in  point  of 
size,  is  250  miles  long  and  60  miles  wide,  and  564  feet  above  the  sea.  It  is  the  shallowest 
of  the  lakes,  and  the  most  dangerous  to  navigate ;  but  has  a  great  and  increasing  commerce, 
with  Cleveland  and  Sandusky  as  the  chief  Ohio  ports,  and  Erie  and  Buffalo  farther  to  the 
eastward.  The  Government  has  constructed  or  improved  the  harbors  at  Sandusky,  Port 


;;:,  •;<•*• 

TOLEDO  :      PUBLIC    LIBRARY. 


maintains  29 
largest  inlet  is 
the  centre, 


Clinton,  Huron,  Black   River,   Vermilion,  and    other  points ;    and 

light-houses   on  the    Ohio    coast,  which  is  230    miles    long.      The 

Sandusky  Bay,  extending  18  miles  into  the  country,  with  straits  near 

forming  the  Upper  Bay  and  the  Lower  Bay. 

There  are  ten  islands  off  Sandusky  Bay,  the 

largest  of  which  (Kelley's)  covers  2,800  acres, 

with  rich  vineyards,  limestone-quarries,  and 

summer  villas,  and  836  inhabitants.     Put-in- 

Bay  Island  has  600  inhabitants  and  several 

summer  hotels,  formerly  much  frequented  by  »<*••* 

Southerners.  COLUMBUS  :    FRANKLIN-COUNTY  COURT-HOUSE. 


THE   STATE    OF   OHIO. 


667 


CINCINNATI  : 
i-LER-DAVIDSON    FOUNTAIN. 


The  Ohio  waters  contain  gigantic  cat-fish  and  sturgeon  (sometimes  weighing  75  pounds), 
brook  and  lake  trout,  black  and  calico  bass,  suckers  and  chub,  white  and  yellow  perch, 
pickerel  and  carp,  herring  and  muscalonge,  sun-fish  and  sheepshead,  and  other  varieties. 
The  State  Fish  Commissioners  have  distributed  hundreds  of  millions  of 
white-fish  and  perch,  eels  and  carp ;  and  Ohio's  profit  from  the  white-fish 
of  Lake  Erie  exceeds  $500,000  yearly.  Sandusky  claims  to  be  the 
largest  market  for  fresh- water  fish  in  the  world,  and  has  1,000  men 
and  $1,000,000  in  capital  in  this  business,  and  ships  12,000  tons  a 
year.  Another  product  of  Sandusky  is  ice,  250,000  tons  of  which 
can  be  stored  in  her  ice-houses  at  one  time. 

At  the  time  of  the  first  settlement  Ohio  rested  under  the  shad- 
ows of  wide-spreading  forests,  and  fully  a  -quarter  of  its  domain 
still  remains  in  woodlands,  fairly  distributed  through  all  the  coun- 
ties, but  heaviest  along  the  Ohio  and  Maumee  Rivers. 
The  Climate  of  northern  Ohio  resembles  that  of  lower  New  England ;  that  of  south- 
ern Ohio  is  rather  more  severe  than  along  the  same  latitude  on  the  Atlantic  coast.  It  is 
subject  to  great  and  sudden  changes ;  and  to  large  variations  in  the  rainfall,  which  ranges 
from  32  inches  in  the  north  to  46  in  the  southwest.  Snow  falls  38  days  in  the  year ;  rain, 
104;  and  there  are  54  cloudy  days  and  169  fair  and  clear.  The  climate  is  salubrious,  and 
the  death-rate  diminishes  yearly.  The  isothermal  line  of  Cincinnati  is  that  of  Milan  and 
Constantinople.  Lake  Erie  has  a  marked  effect  in  mod- 
erating the  climate  of  northern  Ohio,  so  that  it  has  be- 
come a  region  of  orchards  and  vineyards.  The  State 
lies  between  the  isothermal  lines  of  44°  and  52°. 

Farming. —  Although  manufactures  and  mining  in- 
terests are  important,  agriculture  remains  the  chief  in- 
dustry of  Ohio.  Her  crops  have  doubled  since  1870,  by 
virtue  of  improved  methods  of  farming,  and  liberal  aids 
in  fertilizing  the  land.  Wheat  yields  heavy  harvests  in  CINCINNATI  :  BRIDGE  IN  EDEN  PARK. 
the  southwestern  counties,  and  along  the  Maumee  and  Muskingum  valleys.  From  its 
10,000,000  acres  of  tilled  land,  Ohio  raises  yearly  100,000,000  bushels  of  corn,  37,000,000 
of  wheat,  37,000,000  of  oats,  and  12,000,000  of  potatoes,  35,000,000  pounds  of  tobacco, 
3,000,000  tons  of  hay,  and  large  crops  of  rye,  barley  and  buckwheat,  the  whole  valued  at 
above  $100,000,000  a  year.  Among  other  interesting  products  are  3,000,000  pounds  of 
,  maple-sugar,  500,000  gallons  of  maple-syrup,  2,500,000  pounds  of  honey, 
and  immense  amounts  of  flax-seed  and  fibre,  timothy-seed  and  sorghum, 
sugar  and  syrup.  The  orchards  cover  500,000  acres,  and  have  yielded  in  a 
year  31,000,000  bushels  of  apples,  1,500,000  of  peaches,  and  270,000  of 
pears.  In  a  single  year  400,000  bushels  of  strawberries  have  been  sold. 
The  cultivation  of  Catawba  grapes  was  introduced  about  the  year  1835,  by 
Nicholas  Longworth,  and  the  Ohio-River  hills  bore  noble  and  productive 
vineyards  for  many  leagues.  The  product  of  grapes  and  wine 
assumed  great  importance.  About  the  year  1860,  the  climate 
of  southern  Ohio  began  to  be  afflicted  with  sudden  changes  and 
heavy  fogs,  due  to  the  clearing  off  of  the  forests,  and  the  vine- 
yards deteriorated  and  failed.  The  chief  seat  of  this  industry 
now  is  on  and  near  Kelley's  and  Put-in-Bay  Islands,  in  Lake 
Erie,  where  there  are  6,000  acres  of  vineyards,  producing  yearly 
2,500,000  gallons  of  wine  and  30,000,000  pounds  of  grapes. 
The  live-stock  of  Ohio  is  valued  at  $112,000,000,  and  includes 
800,000  horses  and  mules,  1,750,000  cattle,  3,700,000  sheep, 
and  2,700,000  hogs.  Many  thousands  of  the  sheep  are  of  the 


CLEVELAND  I 
HIGH-SERVICE    PUMPING   STATION. 


668 


KING'S  HANDBOOK   OF    THE    UNITED   STATES. 


CLEVELAND  I      JEWISH    ORPHAN    ASYLUM. 


best  breeds,  and  the  flocks  yield  yearly  20,000,000 
pounds  of  strong-fibred  wool.  The  clay  soil  of 
the  Western  Reserve  is  the  great  dairy-region  of 
Ohio.  The  dairy-products  include  yearly  over 
50,000,000  pounds  of  butter,  40,000,000  of  cheese, 
and  50,000,000  gallons  of  milk.  Poultry  and 
eggs  reach  a  yearly  value  of  $5,000,000. 

Minerals.  —  The  coal-measures  cover  10,000 
square  miles,  and  yield  10,000,000  tons  yearly, 
placing  Ohio  third  among  the  coal-producing 
States,  with  700  mines  and  20,000  miners.  It  is 
all  bituminous,  of  high  value  for  gas,  steam  and 
the  iron-manufacture.  The  counties  ot  Athens,  Perry  and  Hocking,  in  the  Hocking 
Valley,  produce  nearly  half  of  the  coal.  The  block  or  Mahoning  variety  is  prized  for  fur- 
nace use.  The  iron  and  steel  industries  of  Ohio  reach  $35,000,000  yearly,  with  100  fur- 
naces and  20,000  workmen,  largely  dependent  on  local  ore,  of  which  250,000  tons  are 
mined  yearly,  from  seams  in  some  cases  19  feet  thick.  The  various  ores  are  distributed 
through  12,000  square  miles.  One  of  the  ores  is  an  excellent  black  band,  and  others  are 
measurably  free  from  sulphur  and  phosphorus.  One  third  of  the  product  comes  from 
Lawrence,  the  most  southerly  county  of  Ohio.  One  third  of  the  iron  manufacturing  is 
done  in  Cuyahoga  County  (Cleveland),  which,  with  Hamilton  County  (Cincinnati)  makes 
56, ooo  tons  of  castings  yearly.  The 
salt  springs  are  in  the  Muskingum 
Valley  and  along  the  Ohio  near  it, 
and  the  salt  deposits,  200  feet  in 
thickness,  are  near  the  shore  of 
Lake  Erie.  The  yearly  product 
reaches  nearly  400,000  barrels, 
four  fifths  of  which  comes  at  pres- 
ent from.  Meigs  and  Muskingum 
Counties ;  but  these  districts  are  al- 
ready over-shadowed  by  the  rock-salt  of  Cleveland  and  Wadsworth.  Half  the  bromine  used 
in  the  world  comes  from  Ohio,  the  brine  of  each  barrel  of  Tuscarawas  salt  containing  three 
fourths  of  a  pound  of  it.  Fire-clay  is  mined  to  the  amount  of  500,000  tons  yearly,  more 
than  half  of  it  coming  from  Jefferson  and  Columbiana  Counties,  on  the  upper  Ohio.  The 
quarries  of  Ohio  produce  more  than  $2, 500,000  a  year,  and  3,000  men  are  engaged  in 
quarrying  limestone,  of  which  600,000  tons  are  burned  yearly  for  lime,  and  a  still  larger 
quantity  finds  use  for  fluxing,  besides  great  amounts  devoted  to  building,  flagging  and  pav- 
ing. Sandusky  alone  ships  yearly  500,000  barrels  of  lime  from  the  quarries  and  kilns  of 
Marble  Head,  and  on  the  shore  of  the  bay  there  are  enormous  beds 
of  fine  white  gypsum,  of  which  60,000  barrels  yearly  are  sent  away 
as  plaster.  The  vicinities  of  Xenia,  Springfield,  Marion  and  Col- 
umbus are  prolific  in  lime.  There  are  profitable  quarries  of 
corniferous  limestone  at  Kelley's  Island,  Sandusky  and  Col- 
umbus. The  white  limestone  of  the  Dayton  and  Piqua 
regions  is  exported  in  large  quantities.  Sum- 
mit County,  including  Akron,  produces  two 
thirds  of  the  5,400,000  gallons  of  stone-ware 
made  in  Ohio,  whose  output  of  stone  and  earth- 
enware is  valued  at  $1,000,000  a  year,  and  is 

FINDLAY  :  >.  <l  «jBP*fflW:iM!iElBSlJJ>u^'1  one  third  of  the  entire  American  supply.     To- 

ledo has  immense  deposits  of  fine  glass-sand. 


CINCINNATI    IN    1808. 


NATURAL-GAS 
WELLS. 


THE  STA  TE  OF  OHIO. 

Quarries  of  excellent  sandstone  abound  in  Ohio,  particu- 
larly in  the  counties  of  Cuyahoga  and  Lorain,  and  an  enor- 
mous business  is  done  here  in  quarrying  building-stone  and 
manufacturing  grindstones,  mounted  grindstones  and  scythe 
stones.  The  greatest  deposit  of  sandstone,  known  geologi- 
cally as  the  Berea  Grit,  is  located  here,  and  is  widely  famous 
for  its  evenness  of  color,  purity  of  texture,  and  exemption 
from  the  impurities  that  would  deteriorate  its  marketable  value. 
The  building-stone  finds  a  market  from  the  most  northerly  point 
in  Minnesota  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  from  the  Rocky  Mount- 
ains to  the  Atlantic.  No  other  building-stone  is  in  such  general 
use  in  such  a  broadcast  manner  as  this  is ;  and  four  fifths  of  all 
the  grindstones  made  in  America  are  manufactured  here,  finding 
a  market  not  only  all  over  the  United  States,  but  throughout  the 
civilized  world.  The  Cleveland  Stone  Company,  a  corporation 
founded  in  July,  1886,  has  absorbed  the  most  valuable  quarries 
in  this  section,  and  is  supplying  and  has  furnished  building- 
stone  for  many  edifices  noted  for  their  beauty.  It  is  the  largest  producer  of  sandstones  and 
grindstones  in  the  world.  The  company  does  not  hold  all  its  property  in  Ohio,  but  possesses 
quarries  in  Michigan,  Indiana,  New  Hampshire,  Vermont  and  Massachusetts.  The  plant  covers 
nearly  3,000  acres,  and  the  pay-roll  amounts  to 
over  ^5OO>OO°  yearly,  with  nearly  as  much  more 
expended  for  supplies.  All  of  25,000  tons  of  coal 
are  used  in  making  steam,  and  6,000  tons  of  sand 
and  1,200  tons  of  saw-blades  are  consumed  in  the 
sawing  of  stone.  In  a  single  year,  3,500,000  cubic 
feet  of  building-stone,  120,000  tons  of  foundation- 
stone  and  30,000  tons  of  grindstones  were  shipped 
by  this  company.  These  shipments  required  30,- 
ooo  cars.  The  State  Capitol  of  Michigan  is  built 
entirely  of  buff  Amherst  stone,  and  so  are  the 
Canadian  Government  buildings  at  Ottawa  ;  and 
there  is  hardly  a  State  in  the  Union  that  has  not  used  more  or  less  of  this  stone  in  its 
structures.  They  shipped  enough  curbing  last  year  to  curb  a  road  on  both  sides  136  miles 
long ;  and  sufficient  flagging  three  inches  thick  to  cover  80  acres  of  land.  The  Cleveland 
Stone  Company  owes  its  success  chiefly  to  its  president,  James  M.  Worthington,  its 
treasurer,  George  H.  Worthington,  and  its  general  superintendent,  James  Nicholl,  who 
have  spent  almost  all  their  lives  energetically  developing  the  stone  industry  of  northern 
Ohio. 

The  petroleum  industry  of  Ohio  has  risen  to  importance  since  1885,  and  has  its  chief 
seats  at  Lima  and  North  Baltimore,  where  there  are  enormous  storage  tanks.  The 
wells  are  very  numerous  and  prolific,  and  the  oil  is  of  an  excellent  grade ;  but 

merit  does  not  rule  in  the  oil  markets 
of  the  country,  and  for  several  years  the 
price  was  forced  to  15  cents  a  barrel ;  it 
is  now  bringing  37  cents  a  barrel.  It  is 
much  used  as  fuel,  for  manufacturing 
operations  and  for  gas  production,  and 
the  demand  far  exceeds  the  supply. 
The  product  of  the  Ohio  oil-wells  rose 
from  650,000  barrels  in  1885  to  I2>5°°- 
BEREA:  QUARRY  AND  GRINDSTONE  MILLS,  CLEVELAND  STONE  co.  <**>  barrels  in  1889.  Experiments  have 


WEST  VIEW:   QUARRY  No.  2. 
CLEVELAND  STONE  CO. 


>7o 


COLUMBUS  :    OHIO  INSTITUTION  FOR  THE 
EDUCATION  OF  THE  BLIND. 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

been  made  for  years  past  with  a  view  of  elimina- 
ting the  sulphur  from  this  oil,  and  at  last  two 
processes  have  been  invented  and  put  into  suc- 
cessful operation  on  the  largest  scale,  which 
yield  the  highest  quality  of  illuminating  oil. 
The  largest  refinery  of  the  United  States  is 
building  near  Chicago  ;  its  supply  of  oil  comes 
from  the  Lima  field  by  two  lines  of  pipe,  with  a 
united  capacity  of  15,000  barrels  per  day.  Nat- 
ural gas  first  began  to  be  used  at  Findlay  in  1884,  when  a  well  dug  for  the  purpose  pro- 
duced 250,000  feet  a  day.  Amid  great  excitement  many  other  wells  were  bored,  and  the 
population  rose  from  5,000  to  20,000,  with  new  manufactories  and  other  industries.  There 
are  more  than  200  glass-pots  in  the  twelve  glass-works  of  the  city.  The  gas-field  covers 
many  miles  north  and  east  of  Findlay,  and  valuable  supplies  are  found  at  many  other  points 
in  Ohio:  If  the  demands  now  being  made  do  not  exhaust  the  supply  prematurely  (as 
seems  possible),  this  product  will  have  a  vast  economic  and  industrial  value.  The  gas  is 
highly  available  as  a  fuel,  and  has  largely  sup- 
planted coal  in  the  factories,  many  of  which 
have  arisen  on  this  account.  After  the  well 
has  been  drilled  and  the  piping  set  up,  the 
cost  is  trifling.  Many  cities  are  lighted  at 
night  by  this  wonderful  product  of  the  earth. 
The  Adams-County  Mineral  Springs  flow  at 
the  foot  of  Peach  Mountain,  and  contain 
chlorides  of  magnesium,  sodium  and  calcium, 
and  sulphate  and  carbonate  of  lime.  The 
feeble  White  Sulphur  Springs  in  Delaware 
County  have  ceased  to  be  a  fashionable  resort. 
Yellow  Springs  are  pleasantly  situated  at  the  Cliffs  on  the  Little  Miami  River,  and  produce 
diuretic  and  tonic  waters,  once  much  sought  by  invalids. 

Government.  —  The  governor  and  the  chief  executive  officers  are  elected  every  two 
years  ;  and  there  are  many  commissioners  and  inspectors  appointed  by  the  governor.  The 
General  Assembly  is  elected  every  two  years,  and  includes  36  senators  and  1 14  representa- 
tives. The  five  Supreme-Court  judges  are  elected  by  the  people.  There  are  eight  circuit 
courts,  each  with  three  judges  ;  and  several  minor  courts.  The  State  Capitol,  at  Columbus, 

is  an  enormous  Doric  building,  of  fine  gray 
limestone,  with  a  high  dome.  The  flag- 
room  contains  more  than  400  flags,  banners 
and  markers  borne  by  Ohio  troops  in  the 
Secession  and  Mexican  Wars.  The  State 
Library  has  60,000  volumes. 

The  Ohio  National  Guard    consists    of 
82  companies  of  infantry,  eight  batteries  of 
light    artillery  and    one  troop   of   cavalry. 
The  infantry  is  organized  into  nine  regi- 
ments and  one  battalion.      The  artillery  is  organ- 
ized into  one  regiment ;  and  attached  to  several 
of  the  batteries  are  from  two  to  four  Gatling  guns. 
One  company  of  infantry  and  the  troop  of  cavalry 
are  not  attached  to  any  regimental  organization. 
The   guard   is    uniformed,   armed  and    equipped 

OHIO   aOLDIERB^AND   SAILORS'  ORPHANS-  ^   ^^    ^    ^     United.States    army  .    and  holds 


OHIO   INSTITUTION    FOR   THE    EDUCATION    OF 
THE    DEAF   AND    DUMB. 


THE  STA  TE  OF  OH  TO. 


67i 


annual  encampments  for  from  six  to  eight  days,  sometimes  by  regiments,  sometimes  by 
brigades,  and  occasionally  the  entire  force  is  brought  together  in  one  camp.  The  State  has 
no  permanent  camping  ground,  and  the  encampments  are  held  in  different  localities. 

The  State  Penitentiary  at  Columbus  is  a 
great  castellated  limestone  building,  with 
1,650  convicts,  and  grounds  covering  24 
acres.  The  Intermediate  Penitentiary,  for 
first  offenders,  is  at  Mansfield.  The  State 
insane  asylums  at  Athens,  Dayton,  Cleve- 
ATHENS  :  OHIO  UNIVERSITY.  land,  Columbus,  Toledo  and  Long  View, 

contain  4,600  inmates,  and  cost  $800,000  a  year.  The  institutions  for  the  deaf  and  dumb 
(500  pupils),  for  the  education  of  the  blind  (300  pupils),  and  for  feeble-minded  youth  (800 
inmates),  are  all  at  Columbus.  Their  buildings  have  cost  $2,000,000,  and  $200,000  a 
year  is  required  for  their  running  expenses.  The  Girls'  Industrial  School,  at  White  Sul- 
phur Springs,  takes  care  of  300  inmates,  on  a  farm  of  189  acres.  The  Boys'  Industrial 
School  has  850  inmates,  on  a  hilly  and  picturesque  domain  of  1,170  acres,  near  Lancaster. 
The  lads  are  in  families  of  50,  each  under  an  elder  brother,  an  assistant  elder  brother,  and 
a  teacher.  The  Ohio  Soldiers'  and  Sailors'  Home,  at  Sandusky,  has  15  fire-proof  cottages 
of  blue  limestone  (each  for  50  men),  on  a  domain  of  90  acres,  and  cares  for  700  veterans. 
The  Soldiers'  and  Sailors'  Orphans'  Home,  on  a  farm  of  275  acres,  near  Xenia,  owns  a 
fine  administration  building  and  30  brick  cottages,  in  a  long  line.  Here  600  boys  and  350 
girls  receive  a  valuable  industrial  education.  The  Central  Branch  of  the  National  Asylum 
for  Disabled  Volunteer  Soldiers  occupies  a  park-like  domain  of  627  acres,  on  a  breezy  hill 
over  Dayton,  traversed  by  32  miles  of  broad  avenues  named  for  the  States.  There  are  50 
great  barracks  and  other  buildings,  with  conservatories  and  gardens,  an  opera-house,  a 
library  of  15,000  volumes,  a  white  stone  church,  a  large  brick  hospital,  and  a  dining-hall 
that  can  seat  2,250  men.  The  asylum  contains  above  5,000  inmates,  more  than  half  of 
whom  are  German  and  Irish  veterans  of  our  war.  The  National  Cemeteries  are  at  John- 
son's Island  and  Columbus,  where  Confederate  prisoners  were  buried.  The  Columbus 
Barracks  of  the  United-States  Army  occupy  many  buildings,  in  a  beautiful  wooded  park. 

Education  costs  Ohio  $11,000,000  a  year,  for  its  common  schools  alone.     Out  of 
1,200,000  youth  of  school  age,  780,000  are  enrolled,  under  25,000 
teachers.     There  are  private  and  municipal  normal  schools  at  Cincin- 
nati, Columbus,  Cleveland,  Lebanon,  Ada,  Dayton,  Fayette,  Canfield, 
Athens,  and  Wauseon,  with  140  teachers  and  3,600  students.     The 
chief  of  these  is  at  Lebanon.     The  State 
has   a   large    school-fund,    mainly   derived 
from   public  lands,    and  supplemented  by 
taxes  and  fines.     There  are  34  degree  col- 
leges, and  44  others,   and  20  professional 
schools,  with  $7, 000,000  worth  of  property, 
500  instructors  and   18,000  students. 
The  Ohio  State  University  has  an 
endowment  of  over  $540,000,  held 
by  the  Commonwealth,  and  derived 
from  the  sale  of  land  given  by  act  of 
Congress  in  1862.      It  is  at  Colum- 
bus, on  a  domain  of  325  acres ;  and 
in   and    near    its  buildings  are  the 
headquarters   of  the  State  Agricul- 
tural Experiment  Station,  the  Ohio 
Meteorological  Bureau  and  the  State  Forestry  Bureau.    There  are  175  hard-working  students. 


OBERLIN   : 
OBERLIN  COLLEGE. 


672 


KINCSS  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 


GAMBIER  I    KENYON  COLLEGE. 


Fifty  of  these  are  women.      No   charge  is  made  for 
tuition.     There    are    five    schools :    Agriculture,  Arts, 
Engineering,  Pharmacy  and  Science ;  and  the  univer- 
sity also  has  a  library  of  10,000  volumes  and  a  valuable 
geological  museum.      The  young  men  form 
a   battalion  of  four  companies,   drilled  by 
officers  of  the  United-States  Army. 

The  Ohio  University  was  provided 
for  in  1787,  when  the  Ohio  Company  set 
apart  for  it  two  townships  of  the  land  then 
purchased  from  the  United  States.  This 
school  was  organized  in  1804,  and  is  the 
oldest  institution  of  learning  northwest  of 
the  Ohio  River.  Its  venerable  buildings 
overlook  the  sinuous  Hockhocking  Valley, 
from  its  park  of  ancient  elms,  at  Athens. 

Oberlin  College  was  established  in  1833, 
by  the  Congregationalists,  and  has  always  had  a  strong  religious  character,  furnish- 
ing a  broad  education  to  thousands  of  pastors  and  missionaries.  Young  men  and  women 
have  equal  recognition  in  the  classes,  under  rules  made  safe  and  profitable  by  many  years 
of  experience.  Oberlin  was  for  many  years  bitterly  assailed  because  it  opened  its  doors  to 
negro  students.  The  college  has  a  number  of  handsome  buildings  of  Ohio 
sandstone,  most  of  them  of  recent  construction.  The  dormitories  are  inade- 
quate for  the  1,200  students  (half  of  them  preparatory),  and 
many  families  in  the  town  receive  them  as  boarders. 

Kenyon  College,  at  Gambler,  was  founded  by  Philander  Chase, 
the  first  Episcopal  Bishop  of  Ohio,  in  1827.  The  college  park 
contains  loo  acres,  shaded  with  noble  oaks  and  maples,  and 
sloping  to  the  Kokosing  Valley.  Here  stands  Kenyon  Hall,  a 
many-spired  dormitory,  with  stone  walls  four  feet  thick,  dating 
from  1827;  Ascension  Hall,  with  a  high  battlemented  tower, 
used  for  an  observatory ;  and  Rosse  Hall,  a  stone  Ionic  building, 
containing  the  gymnasium  and  audience  room.  The  Church  of  the  Holy  Spirit,  the  col- 
lege chapel,  is  a  beautiful  cruciform  Gothic  edifice,  of  sandstone,  with  memorial  windows, 
climbing  ivy,  and  wide  grounds.  Bexley  Hall  is  a  great  Elizabethan  building,  the  home  of 
the  Theological  Seminary.  Kenyon  has  seven  professors  and  30  students.  Among  the 
graduates  have  been  Rutherford  B.  Hayes,  Stanley  Matthews,  Edwin  M.  Stanton  and  David 
Davis.  Kenyon  Military  Academy  is  a  preparatory  school,  with  a  park  of  60  acres.  The 
cadets  wear  uniforms  like  those  of  West  Point.  Harcourt-Place  Seminary,  for  girls,  also 
belongs  to  this  group  of  Episcopal  institutions.  Western-Reserve  University,  at  Cleveland, 
includes  Adelbert  College,  formerly  Western-Reserve  College,  (and 
re-named  for  the  deceased  son  of  Amasa  Stone,  its  chief  benefactor)  ; 
the  Cleveland  Medical  College,  with  its  handsome 
brownstone  building;  the  Cleveland  College  for 
Women  ;  the  School  of  Art,  and  the  Conservatory  of 
Music.  The  preparatory  Western-Reserve  Academy 
occupies  the  ancient  buildings  and  grounds  of  Western- 
Reserve  College,  founded  at  Hudson,  in  1826.  In 
1882  the  college  was  transferred  to  Cleveland,  td  "the 
new  buildings  erected  for  it  by  Mr.  Stone,  and 
in  1884  the  Western -Reserve  University  was  chartered, 
and  has  associated  together  the  departments  named  YELLOW  SPRINGS  ;  ANTIOCH  COLLEGE. 


HIRAM  :    HIRAM  COLLEGE. 


THE  STATE  OF  OHIO. 


AKRON  :    BUCHTEL  COLLEGE. 


above.      Subsequently  the  trustees  of  the  college  decided  against  co-education,  and    the 
trustees  of  the  University  erected  a  Woman's  College.     Adelbert  College  fronts  on  Wade 

Park,  on  Euclid  Avenue.  Miami  University  has  a 
beautiful  campus  on  the  ridge  of  Oxford,  overlooking 
the  rich  Miami  Valley.  It  was  chartered  in  1809, 
and  after  a  long  career  of  usefulness  suffered  eclipse 
by  the  civil  war  and  remained  closed  for  several 
years.  It  now  has  80  students.  Among  Miami's 
graduates  were  President  Benjamin  Harrison, 
Gen.  R.  C.  Schenck,  Whitelaw  Reid,  David 
Swing,  Senator  Brice,  and  other  eminent  men. 
Hiram  College  was  founded  in  1850  as  an  academy  for  the  Disciples  of  Christ,  and  James 
A.  Gar  field  held  its  principalship  from  1857  to  1  86  1.  It  became  a  college  in  1867.  The 
institution  has  14  instructors  and  50  students  (besides  200  preparatory  pupils),  including 
many  women  ;  and  is  established  among  the  hills  of  Hiram.  Marietta  College  is  a  flourish- 
ing institution  in  the  ancient  town  of  Marietta,  with  about  100  students  and  a  library  of 
60,  ocx)  volumes.  It  was  founded  in  1835,  and  has  contributed  greatly  to  the  rise  of  learning 
in  the  West.  Antioch  College,  at  Yellow  Springs,  dates  from  1853,  when  Horace  Mann 
became  its  first  president.  It  has  three  buildings  and  42  collegiate  students.  Its  tone  is 
liberal,  and  several  eminent  Unitarians  are  numbered  among  its  trustees.  The  University 
of  Cincinnati  was  opened  in  1870,  and  now  has  14  instructors  and  130  students.  It  po- 
sesses  over  $1,000,000  in  endowments,  and  furnishes  free 
tuition  for  residents  of  Cincinnati.  The  Cincinnati  Obser- 
vatory is  a  department  of  the  university.  Buchtel  College 
was  founded  at  Akron  in  1870  by  the  Ohio  Universalist  Con- 
vention, and  endowed  by  John  R.  Buchtel.  It  has  92  col- 
legiate students  and  320  others.  Baldwin  University  and 
its  affiliated  German  Wallace  College  and  theological 
department,  grew  out  of  Baldwin  Institute,  founded  in 
1  846  at  Berea;  and  is  a  Methodist-Episcopal  school  with 

70  collegiate  and  250  other  students.     Wilberforce  Univer-  CLEVELAND 

sity  is  a  small  African  Methodist  institution.  The  Luth- 
erans conduct  Capitol  University  at  Columbus  ;  the  Baptists,  Denison  University  at  Gran- 
ville  (founded  in  1831);  the  United  Brethren,  Otterbein  University  at  Westerville  ;  the 
New  Church,  Urbana  University  ;  the  Methodists,  Ohio  Wesleyan  University,  founded  at 
Delaware  in  1844;  the  Presbyterians,  the  University  of  Wooster,  with  250  students  ;  the 
Reformed  Church,  Heidelberg  College  at  Tiffin  and  Calim  College  at  Brooklyn  Village  ;  the 
Friends,  Wilmington  College  ;  and  there  are  other  small  colleges  at  several  other  towns. 
The  Case  School  of  Applied  Science  at  Cleveland,  was  endowed  by  Leonard  Case,  Jr.  (in 
1886)  with  $1,500,000,  and  offers  five  regular  courses  of  study.  Cincinnati  has  three  regu- 
lar medical  colleges  (and  two  eclectic  and  one  homoeopathic),  with  dental  and  pharmaceutical 

schools  besides  ;  and  Cleveland,  Columbus  and 
Toledo  each  have  two  regular  medical  schools. 
These  institutions  have  210  instructors  and 
1,400  students.  The  chief  law  school  is  at  Cin- 
cinnati, and  dates  from  1833.  It  has  150  stu- 
dents and  five  professors,  of  whom  Ex-Governor 
Cox  is  now  the  dean  and  head.  Ohio  has  eleven 
theological  schools  :  Methodist  at  Berea,  He- 
brew and  Presbyterian  at  Cincinnati,  Catholic 

at  Cleveland,  Lutheran  at  Columbus  and  Spring- 
OLEVELANO  :  ««CEALNDEPA;TMENT,  WESTERN- 


CASE  SCHOOL  OF  APPLIED  SCIENCE. 


674 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


CINCINNATI  :    ART    SCHOOL  AND  ART  MUSEUM. 


at  Gambier,  Congregationalist  at  Oberlin, 
Reformed  at  Tiffin,  and  United  Presby- 
terian at  Xenia.  Lane  Theological  Sem- 
inary, on  Walnut  Hills,  near  Cincinnati, 
was  opened  in  1832  by  the  Rev.  Lyman 
Beecher,  and  has  since  been  an  influen- 
tial and  prosperous  Presbyterian  school. 
It  possesses  attractive  buildings  and 
grounds  and  about  50  students.  The 
State  contains  8,000  religious  societies, 
with  7,000  church  edifices,  valued  at 
$33,000,000.  There  are  5,400  clergymen,  500,000  church-members,  and  2,500,000  adher- 
ents. One  third  of  the  churches  and  communicants  are  Methodist,  and  one  sixth  Presby- 
terian. The  Baptists  and  Disciples  have  nearly  60,000  members  each  ;  the  Lutherans, 
40,000;  and  the  Congregationalists  and  Reformed  Church  about  20,000  each.  There  are 
550  Catholic  parishes,  with  a  population  of  400,000. 

The  culture  of  the  Buckeye  State  is  farther  advanced  by  a  large  number  of  public  libra- 
ries, the  chief  of  which  is  at  Cincinnati,  and  has  150,000  volumes.  The  Young  Men's  Mer- 
cantile Library  also  has  50,000  books.  Cleveland,  Chillicothe,  Columbus,  Dayton,  Spring- 
field, Toledo  and  other  cities  have  generous  provision  for  the  literary  entertainment  of 
their  people,  in  carefully  ordered  public  libraries.  Cincinnati  stands 
foremost  among  Western  cities  in  its  devotion  to  art  and  music,  which 
is  partly  due  to  its  large  German  population.  The  Art  Museum  and 
academy  have  received  gifts  amounting  to  above  $1,000,000,  and  occupy 
noble  buildings  on  Mount  Adams,  350  feet  above  the  Ohio,  in  Eden  Park. 
The  school  has  ten  teachers  and  400  pupils,  and  hundreds  of  valuable 
paintings  and  sculptures.  Cincinnati  is  also  celebrated  for  its 
great  school  of  wood-carvers,  reviving  the  excellence  of  mediaeval  - 
work.  The  growth  of  art  in  Cincinnati  dates  from  Eckstein's 
drawing-classes,  in  1826,  and  the  art-academies  of  Franks  and 
Frankenstein,  and  has  been  advanced  greatly  by  the  munificent 
endowments  of  West  and  Longworth,  Springer  and  Sinton.  The 
great  schools  of  art  thus  founded  have  educated  several  illustrious  painters  and  sculptors, 
like  Powers,  Beard  and  Buchanan  Read,  and  have  taught  a  true  appreciation  of  beauty  and 
nobility  to  thousands  of  earnest  students.  The  Garfield  Memorial  at  Cleveland,  is  a  round 
stone  tower,  165  feet  high,  with  historical  friezes,  illuminated  windows,  marble  mosaics, 
and  statues  of  War  and  Peace.  The  remains  of  the  late  President  are  placed  in  a  great 
metal  casket,  in  the  crypt,  above  which,  in  a  hall  surrounded  by  granite  columns,  stands  a 
noble  statue  of  Garfield.  The  Memorial  was  built  with  the  contributions  of  the  American 
people,  and  dedicated  in  1890.  It  occupies  a  noble  place  in  Lake- View  Cemetery. 

Pottery  in  the  United  States  has  largely  been 
confined  to  simple  articles  for  ordinary  uses ;  the 
artistic  being  absorbed  by  the  utilitarian ;  but  of 
later  years  an  earnest  attempt  has  been  made  at 
various  places  to  raise  the  artistic  impulse  of  Ameri- 
cans. One  of  the  most  successful  and  most  credit- 
able of  these  efforts  is  the  world-famous  Rook- 
wood  Pottery,  of  Cincinnati.  This  pottery  was 
established  in  1880  by  Mrs.  Maria  Longworth 
Storer,  whose  father,  Joseph  Longworth,  was  a 
patron  of  art  and  a  founder  of  the  Art  School  of 
CINCINNATI  :  THE  RooKwooo  POTTERY.  Cincinnati,  and  whose  grandfather,  Nicholas  Long- 


CLEVELAND  :  GARFIELD  MONUMENT. 


THE  STATE   OF   OHIO. 


worth,  was  probably  the  pioneer  producer  of  Catawba  wine.  The  Rookwood  ware  is  a  true 
faience,  made  of  clays  from  the  Ohio  Valley,  and  mainly  on  that  oldest  of  artist  tools,  the 
long-neglected  potter's  wheel.  The  ornamentation  is  entirely  underglaze,  and  discards 

altogether  the  modern  methods  of  printed  transfers. 
It  is  distinguished  by  boldness  and  originality,  and  by 
the  remarkable  decorative  quality  of  the 
color  grounds.  The  ware  takes  rank 
with  the  finest  modern  work,  and  finds 
place  in  museums  and  the  best  private 
collections,  both  at  home  and  abroad. 
The  pottery  was  until  recently  a  private 
concern,  carried  on  with  a  purely  artistic 

CINCINNATI  :   SPRINGER   MUSIC    HALL  AND   EXPOSITION   BUILDING.        yicW.         In     iS^O    the    Rookwood     Pottery 

Company  was  incorporated  by  a  few  wealthy  connoisseurs,  and  the  financial  side  of  the 
enterprise  remains,  as  formerly,  subordinate  to  the  artistic.  The  works  attract  visitors  from 
all  over  the  world,  and  though  their  output  is  very  limited,  the  unique  and  exquisite  quality 
of  the  production  gives  it  a  ready  market  on  both  sides  of  the  Atlantic.  Young  as  the 
pottery  is,  it  has  not  only  taken  several  awards  in  this  country  and  England,  but  was  given 
the  gold  medal  at  Paris  in  1889,  where  the  famous  potteries  of  the  Old  World  had  entered 
into  competition. 

Newspapers.  —  The  oldest  newspaper  is  the  Scioto  Gazette,  founded  at  Chillicothe  in 
1800.  Among  the  journalists  af  Ohio  have  been  Howells,  Piatt,  Locke  (Petroleum  V. 
Nasby),  "Artemus  Ward,"  Murat  Halstead,  and  Whitelaw  Reid. 

The  Cincinnati  News  and  job  printing  establishment  is  almost  co-eval  with  the  city.  It 
was  first  known  as  the  Advertiser,  then  the  Republican,  and  then  the  Enquirer,  which  name 
it  has  held  for  the  past  seventy  years.  It  was  first  a  weekly  paper,  like  most  of  those 
started  in  the  New  West.  It  grew  in  time  to  issue  semi  -weekly,  tri-  weekly  and  daily  edi- 
tions. It  was  the  first  daily  in.  Cincinnati  that  included  in  its  daily 
issue  that  of  a  Sunday  issue.  In  its  early  history  its  editions  were 
worked  off  on  hand-presses,  their  motive  power  being  human  muscles. 
It  was  not  until  about  1850  that  the  various  editions  were  printed  on  a 
steam  power-press.  For  the  past  20  years  the  Enquirer  has  been  con- 
trolled by  John  R.  McLean,  under  whose  energetic  management  it  has 
grown  in  business  and  circulation  to  be  the  foremost  paper  in  the  State, 
and  one  of  the  most  influential  in  the  great  West.  In  politics  it  has 
always  been,  as  it  is  now,  Democratic.  It  may  truly  be  said  of  the 
Enquirer  "it  never  broke  down."  It  has  always  been  on  a  firmly  es- 
tablished foundation,  and  promises  to  maintain  that  position.  The 
Enquirer  has  gained  a  world-  wide  celebrity  by  the  completeness  and 
brightness  of  its  news-service,  its  special  correspondents  being  scattered 
all  over  the  world.  One  of  the  most  potent  factors  in  the  marked  suc- 
cess of  the  Enquirer  is  that  it  has  always  championed  the  cause  of  the 
people,  fearlessly  advocating  those  reforms  which  the  masses  demand 
against  the  classes.  Its  weekly  edition  wields  a  powerful  influence 
among  the  farmers'  organizations,  and  it  has  for  years  agitated  and  CINCINNATI  : 

urged  the  reforms  which  are  at  the  basis  of  the  Farmers'  Alliance. 

The  mechanical  department  is  located  in  an  extensive  building  in  the  rear  of  the  office,  and 
other  buildings  front  on  Vine  Street.  It  is  as  large  and  as  well-equipped  as  any  newspaper 
in  the  country.  It  is  complete  in  every  detail,  and  exemplifies  the  wonderful  growth  of 
modern  journalism. 

At  Springfield  is  issued  one  of  the  most  successful  journals  in  this  country.  It  is  The 
Farm  and  Fireside,  published  by  Mast,  Crowell  &  Kirkpatrick,  who  also  publish  another 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


SPRINGFIELD  !    MAST,  CROWELL  &   KIRKPATRICK, 
"  FARM    AND    FIRESIDE." 


journal,  The  Ladies'  Home  Companion,  which  ranks 
high  among  the  notable  periodicals.  The  publish- 
ers are  three  men  who  are  conspicuous  in  Springfield 
affairs,  and  also  identified  with  many  affairs  of  the 
State  and  far  beyond  the  State.  The  senior  mem- 
ber, P.  P.  Mast,  besides  being  an  equal  owner  with 
Crowell  and  Kirkpatrick  in  the  publishing  business,  is 
also  an  eminent  manufacturer,  banker  and  capitalist. 
J.  S.  Crowell  is  the  business  manager,  and  T.  J. 
Kirkpatrick  is  the  managing  editor.  The  printing- 
house  is  a  handsome  four-story  brick  structure,  built 
and  owned  by  the  firm,  and  in  it  are  commodious 
and  well-appointed  apartments  for  the  many  details 
of  such  an  extensive  enterprise.  The  Farm  and 
Fireside  is  a  1 6-page,  64-column  paper,  issued  twice 
a  month,  devoted  to  agricultural  and  household  matters,  and  very  widely  known.  Its 
actual  circulation  amounts  to  250,000  copies,  and  reaches  nearly  40,000  post-offices.  These 
are  figures  which  tell  of  the  remarkably  satisfactory  manner  in  which  they  have  served  their 
constituency  —  the  farmers  and  their  families  —  throughout  the  length  and  breadth  of  this 
country.  It  is  an  excellent  periodical,  clean  in  all  its  details,  trustworthy  in  its  reports, 
comprehensive  in  its  scope,  entertaining  in  its  general  reading,  and  as  a  whole,  instructive 
and  interesting.  Its  advertising  columns  have  been  as  carefully  guarded  as  possible ;  the 
aim  being  to  make  the  advertising  space  of  service  to  its  readers,  as  well  as  profitable  to  its 
advertisers.  It  is  the  most  successful  of  all  the  numerous  agricultural  periodicals.  The 
Ladies'  Home  Companion  has  been  published  by  this  firm  for  four  years,  and  now  has  at- 
tained a  circulation  of  150,000  copies.  Out  of  the  60,000  post-offices  in  this  country,  it  is 
a  regular  visitor  at  nearly  30,000. 

Chief  Cities. —  Cincinnati,  "  the  Queen  City"  of  Ohio  and  the  valley,  stands  on  two 
terraces  above  the  Ohio  River,  and  around  its  landward  side  sweeps  a  noble  semi-circle  of 
high  hills,  crowned  by  handsome  villas.  Among  its  notable  features  are  the  great  schools 
of  art  and  music ;  the  costly  public  buildings,  like  the  post-office,  and  the  numerous  and 
interesting  churches  and  colleges ;  the  great  bridges  to  the  Kentucky  shore  ;  the  inclined- 
plane  railways,  climbing  sharply  to  extensive  beer-gardens  on  the  hill-tops ;  the  beautiful 
surrounding  parks,  Eden,  Burnet  Woods,  and  others ;  Spring-Grove  Cemetery,  which  many 


CINCINNATI  I   THE   QUEEN   CITY   OF  THE  WEST,    AND   THE   OHIO   RIVER,    WITH    COVINQTON   AND    NEWPORT. 


if 


CINCINNATI  : 
ELM-STREET  INCLINE. 


THE  STATE  OF  OHIO. 

travellers  believe  to  be  the  most  picturesque  in  the  world ;  the  great 
Exposition  Building  and  Music  Hall ;  the  massive  and  noble  edifice  of 
the  Chamber  of  Commerce,  designed  by  H.  H.  Richardson,  and  built 
byNorcross  Brothers  ;  the  populous  German  quarter,  "  Over  the  Rhine" 
(the  Miami  Canal);  the  magnificent  Tyler-Davidson  Fountain,  with  its 
many  bronze  statues ;  and  the  charming  highland  suburbs  of  Clifton, 
Walnut  Hills  and  others.  Cincinnati  has  100,000  operatives,  making 
yearly  more  than  $200,000,000  worth  of  goods.  There  are  24  railwaj 
lines  entering  the  city,  with  several  costly  bridges  across  the  Ohio  River ; 
and  steamboats  from  many  ports  on  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  and  their 
tributaries  call  at  the  wharf-boats.  The  central  position  of  the  city 
gives  it  a  great  commerce  with  the  West  and  South,  the  city  having 
constructed  a  railway  across  Kentucky  and  Tennessee  to  Chattanooga. 

What  the  Cafe  Bignon  is  to  Paris,  the  Cafe  Savoy  to  London,  Young's  to  Boston,  and 
Delmonico's  to  New  York,  the  St.  Nicholas  is  to  Cincinnati.  No  city  west  of  New  York 
has  a  more  deservedly  famous  restaurant  than  that  of  the  St.  Nicholas,  the  proprietor  of 
which  is  Edward  N.  Roth,  whose  name  as  a  restaurateur  and  hotel  proprietor  is  well  known 
on  both  sides  of  the  Atlantic.  The  older  part  of  the  building  includes 
two  of  the  fine  private  mansions  of  older  days,  with  spacious  and 
luxurious  rooms  and  halls,  constructed  with  an  eye 
solely  to  comfort  and  content.  The  St.  Nicholas 
was  enlarged  in  1891  by  an  extensive  addition  on  the 
east,  so  that  the  hotel  is  now  one  of  the  large  hotels 
of  Cincinnati.  Throughout  it  is  most  exquisitely  fur- 
nished, and  in  many  of  its  appointments  it  is  indeed 
sumptuous.  It  is  in  the  very  heart  of  the  business 
section  of  the  city,  and  for  business  or  pleasure  there 
is  no  hotel  more  conveniently  situated,  being  on  the 
corner  of  Fourth  and  Race  Streets,  and  handy  to  all 
attractions,  whether  of  business  or  amusement. 

Cleveland  is  on  the  south  shore  of  Lake  Erie,  with 
a  harbor  built  at  great  cost,  of  piers  and  a  break- 
water, at  the  mouth  of  Cuyahoga  River.  The  chief  imports  are  lumber  and  Lake- Superior 
iron-ore,  the  chief  export  being  coal.  The  city  has  150  iron  and  steel  works,  producing 
$35,000,000  a  year;  20  oil-works,  including  the  immense  establishments  of  the  Standard 
Oil  Company ;  and  five  ship-yards  for  building  wooden  and  steel  vessels.  Twelve  lines  of 
steamboats  and  ten  railways  converge  at  this  point,  handling  an  immense  commerce.  A 
single  one  of  Cleveland's  four  great  viaducts  cost  $2,250,000.  Euclid  Avenue  is  one  of 
the  handsomest  residence-streets  in  the  world,  and  runs  out  to  the  famous  Lake- View  Cem- 
etery. The  abundant  trees  on  the  broad  streets  and  in  the  parks  have 
Cleveland  the  title  of  "the  Forest  City,"  and  statues  of  Gen.  Moses 
and  Commodore  Perry,  and  other  monuments,  further  adorn  the  place. 

Hotel  accommodations  in  Cleveland  are  excellent. 
This  is  necessarily  so  in  a  city  where  there  is  so  much 
railroad  travel.  The  Hotel  Hollenden  is  considered  the 
finest  hostelry  in  the  city.  It  is  built  of  pressed  brick, 
with  sandstone  trimmings,  and  rises  seven  stories  high, 
fire-proof  throughout.  It  was  finished  May  I,  1890,  and 
cost  $1,500,000.  The  effect  of  the  exterior  has  been 
that  of  studied  plainness  rather  than  architectural  beauty, 
but  the  surface  is  broken  by  many  octagonal  and  circular 
bays,  and  the  corner  is  surmounted  with  a  large  square  CLEVELAND  ;  HOTEL  HOLLENDEN. 


CINCINNATI  :    ST.     NICHOLAS    HOTEL. 


678  KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE    UNITED   STATES. 

tower,  which  rises  considerably  higher  than  any  point  in  the  vicinity.  The  original  Hol- 
lenden  was  built  by  L.  E.  Holden.  This  was  merely  a  section  of  the  present  structure, 
and  contained  135  rooms.  The  present  Hollenden  contains  420  chambers  and  100  bath 
rooms.  It  occupies  the  whole  square  at  the  corner  of  Bond  and 
Superior  Streets,  and  running  back  to  Vincent  Street.  The  inside 
finish  is  mahogany.  There  is  a  great  deal  of  tiling  in  all  of  the 
common  rooms,  bath,  office,  and  corridors.  The  owners  are  the 
Hollenden  Hotel  Company  ;  the  proprietors  are  L.  Dean  Holden 
&  Co.,  and  the  manager  is  Frank  A.  Brobst.  In  construction, 
situation,  exterior  appearance,  interior  furnishings  and  general 
management,  there  are  but  few  hotels  that  equal  the  Hollenden. 
Columbus  has  the  State  Capitol  and  several  palatial  institu-~ 
tions,  and  a  great  United-States  building,  with  profitable  manu- 
factures of  iron  and  steel,  agricultural  implements  and  carriages. 
CINCINNATI  •  ^  possesses  wide  streets  and  large  parks,  with  50  churches  and  three 

CHAMBER  OF  COMMERCE.  colleges.  Toledo,  five  miles  up  the  Maumee  River,  is  an  im- 
portant manufacturing,  railway  and  shipping  point,  handling  immense  quantities  of  coal, 
iron-ore,  grain  and  lumber,  and  g.rowing  rapidly.  Pipe-lines  lead  natural  gas  into  the  city 
for  manufacturing  and  other  purposes.  Dayton,  on  the  Big  Miami,  is  a  great  hive  of  manu- 
factures, employing  10,000  persons,  and  producing  $15,000,000  a  year,  with  seven  railways- 
converging  into  its  bounds.  Sandusky,  with  its  fine  land-locked  harbor,  has  one  of  the  largest 
coastwise  trades  on  the  lakes,  and  the  largest  trade  in  fresh- water  fish  ($1,500,000  a  year)  in 
the  world,  with  a  fruit  trade  of  $1,000,000  a  year,  a  product  of  2,000,000  gallons  of  wine,  and 
a  large  trade  in  blue  and  white  limestone.  Zanesville,  on  the  Muskingum,  has  costly  pub- 
lic buildings  and  water- works,  and  many  factories.  Historic  Chillicothe  rears  its  manufactur- 
ing and  commercial  industries  on  a  picturesque  hill-girt  plateau  near  the  Scioto.  Springfield 
dwells  amid  the  richest  farm  lands,  and  makes  myriads  of  mowers  and  reapers.  Among 
the  other  cities  are  Canton,  rich  in  wheat  and  coal ;  Massillon,  with  quarries  of  fine  white 
sandstone ;  Steubenville,  digging  coal  and  making  iron,  amid  pleasant  river  scenery ; 
Xenia,  with  its  colleges  and  costly  public  buildings ;  Hamilton,  the  manufacturing  centre 
of  a  rich  farming  country  on  the  Miami ;  Ironton,  the  headquarters  of  the  famous  Hanging- 
Rock  iron  region ;  and  Pomeroy,  on  the  Ohio,  surrounded  by  salt-furnaces  and  coal-mines. 
The  Railroads  of  Ohio  include  several  great  trunk-lines  from  East  to  West,  nu- 
merous North  and  South  routes,  and  a  network  of  tributary  roads,  so  that  every  county  is 
crossed.  The  revenue-yielding  tonnage  of  freight  is  85,000,000  tons  yearly,  one  third  of 
which  is  coal  and  one  tenth  grain.  The  first  line  extended  from  Springfield  to  Sandusky,  and 
was  begun  in  1835.  Now  the  State  is  a  grand  highway  of  nations  containing  long  sections 
of  the  famous  routes  between  the  agricultural  West  and  the  commercial  East. 

One  of  the  richest  regions  of  the  West  is  the  Miami  Valley,  which  is  traversed  by  the 
Cincinnati,  Hamilton  &  Dayton  Railroad.  The  Cincinnati  terminus  has  a  large  station  and 
train-house,  built  in  1864.  The  company  was  chartered  in  1846,  and  operates  347  miles. 
The  capital  stock  is  $4,000,000,  besides  preferred  stock  of  $1,553,600.  July  I,  1890, 
the  assets  were  $15,500,186;  the  gross  earnings 
from  operation,  $3,778,003,  less  the  operating  ex- 
penses and  taxes,  $2,235,979,  leaving  a  net  income 
of  $1,542,024  for  the  year.  The  amount  of  interest 
paid  last  year  was  $707,940.  During  the  past  year 
the  company  purchased  from  the  Louisville,  Cincin- 
nati &  Dayton  Railroad  a  completed  section  from 
Middletown  to  Hamilton,  a  distance  of  14  miles. 
They  now  have  95  locomotives  and  5,214  cars,  of 

,   .  *,  f-3.     ,  CINCINNATI  : 

which  5,055  are  freight-cars.      During  the  past  year  CINCINNATI,  HAMILTON  *  DAYTCTN  DEPOT. 


THE  STATE   OF  OHIO. 


679 


they  have  hauled  3,303,493  passengers  and  3,803,251  tons  of  freight.  Much  of  this  latter 
is  grain  and  lumber.  The  company's  main  line  extends  from  Cincinnati  to  Toledo,  con- 
necting there  for  Detroit  and  all  points  along  the  great  lakes.  This  line  is  about  200  miles 
long,  and  traverses  the  rich  and  beautiful  agricultural  region  celebrated  in  the  poem  of  "June 
on  the  Miami,"  passing  through  the  important  cities  of  Hamilton  and  Dayton,  and  through 
the  famous  oil-country  around  Lima.  Another  division  of  this  railroad  swings  off  to  the 
westward  at  Hamilton,  and  reaches  Indianapolis  in  about  100  miles.  This  route  is  traversed 
by  the  fast  trains  from  Cincinnati  to  Chicago  and  also  to  St.  Louis  by  the  Vandalia  line. 
The  through  trains  from  Cincinnati  to  Detroit  or  Chicago  have  vestibuled  parlor,  dining 
and  sleeping  cars,  and  afford  delightful  journeys  through  the  pastoral  scenery  and  enterprising 
cities  of  western  Ohio. 

The  Canals  of  Ohio  were  built  between  1825  and  1842,  at  a  cost  of  $16,000,000. 

The  Ohio  Canal,   309  miles  long,  from  Cleveland  to  Portsmouth,  on  the  Ohio  River,  has 

152  lift-locks.     The  Miami  and  Erie  Canal  extends  from  Cincinnati  to  Toledo,  250  miles. 

Finance.  —  The  State  debt  decreased  between  1880  and  1890,  from  $10,000,000  to 

$7,000,000.      There  are  200  National  banks  in  Ohio,  with  avast  volume  of  financial  business. 

The  First  National  Bank  of  Cincinnati  is  one  of  the  old 
reliable  institutions  of  the  city,  and  indisputably  the  largest 
and  foremost  National  bank  in  Ohio.  It  was  organized  in 
1863,  with  a  capital  of  $1,500,000.  In  1879  this  capital  was 
decreased  (by  repurchase  of  the  shares)  to  $1,200,000, 
which  amount  has  continued  unchanged,  although  the  sur- 
plus and  undivided  profits  are  about  $700,000.  A  marked 
feature  of  the  bank  is  its  conservatism,  both  as  regards 
changes  in  the  management  and  the  character  of  its  de- 
positors. In  its  whole  career  of  28  years  it  has  had  but  two 
presidents  ;  and  four  of  the  eight  directors  have  remained  on 
the  board  during  the  entire  life  of  the  corporation.  Its  de- 
positors are  almost  entirely  derived  from  the  mercantile  and 
manufacturing  interests  of  the  city.  The  bank  statement  of  July  1 8,  1890,  to  the  comp- 
troller credited  them  with  a  capital  of  $1,200,000,  surplus  $240,000  and  undivided  profits 
$418,716.  The  amount  on  deposit  was  $4,629,987,  and  there  were  well-secured  loans 
amounting  to  $3,771,377.  They  are  cor- 
respondents of  the  First,  Third,  Fourth  and 
Western  National  Banks  of  New  York,  and 
have  extensive  relations  with  the  banking 
interests  of  London.  L.  B.  Harrison  is 
the  president,  and  W.  S.  Rowe  the  cashier, 
The  First  National  Bank  building  is  one 
of  the  neatest  architectural  specimens  of 
office  structures  in  Cincinnati. 

Manufactures  employ  230,000  opera- 
tives and  a  capital  of  $200,000,000,  with  a  yearly  product  of  $400,000,000,  nearly  half  of 
which  comes  from  Hamilton  and  Cuyahoga  Counties.  Ohio  is  one  of  the  leading  States 
in  making  green  and  window  glass  and  glass-ware,  and  has  large  works  at  Findlay  and  East 
Liverpool.  One  fourth  of  the  agricultural  implements  of  America  are  made  at  Columbus, 
Akron,  Springfield  and  Canton.  Rolling-mills  employ  thousands  of  men  at  Cleveland, 
Columbus,  Youngstown  and  other  points. 

Perhaps  no  metal  goes  into  such  a  variety  of  shapes  and  into  such  unlimited  uses  as 
iron.  It  is  certain  that  there  is  no  mineral  so  universally  abounding.  From  the  great 
walking-beam  of  the  mammoth  steamship  to  the  tiny  hairspring  of  a  lady's  watch  the  variety 
of  shapes  and  uses  of  iron  is  endless.  The  ease  with  which  it  is  now  worked  is  re- 


CINCINNATI  I     FIRST    NATIONAL   BANK. 


CLEVELAND  I    THE  VIADUCT. 


68o 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 


CLEVELAND  : 
IRON-ORE  VESSEL   OF    PICKANDS,   MATHER    &    CO. 


markable.  When  the  glowing  red  coil  of  metal  is  shot  out  from  between  the  rolls,  and  is 
trained  along  over  conductors  to  the  mill-yard,  it  does  not  resemble  the  dull  ore  that  went 
into  the  smelter  at  the  other  end  of  the  works.  At  Cleveland  there  are  many  industries 
using  iron  in  enormous  quantities,  in  rolling-  ( 

mills,  furnaces,  foundries,  and  the  works  of  ma- 
chinists, tool-makers,  ship-builders,  and  others. 
Here,  too,  is  one  of  the  greatest  ports  for  receiv- 
ing and  forwarding  ores  and  pig  iron  and  coal. 
So  naturally  there  have  grown  up  several  great 
and  wealthy  houses,  whose  business  as  factors, 
brokers  and  merchants  is  to  act  between  the 
consumer  and  producer  of  these  staple  com- 
modities. The  representative  house  at  this  time 
is  the  firm  of  Pickands,  Mather  &  Co.,  of  Cleve- 
land, one  of  the  largest  in  the  country  devoted 
to  pig  iron,  and  dealing  in  the  native  ore  and  coal.  They  are  extensively  interested  in 
various  furnaces  converting  ore  into  pig  iron.  The  firm  dates  back  to  1882,  and  since 
that  time  has  always  been  an  energetic  house.  Not  only  are  they  interested  in  iron  fur- 
naces in  Cleveland,  but  at  other  Ohio  points,  and  in  Pennsylvania  and  Michigan  as  well, 
altogether  making  a  daily  output  of  about  700  tons  of  pig  iron.  They  operate  their  own 
fleet  of  vessels,  in  bringing  the  ore  from  the  mines  down  the  lakes  to  the  principal 
distributing  ports  ;  and  have  at  these  ports  their  own  docks,  to  which  the  vessels  go  di- 
rectly to  discharge,  and  which  are  equipped  with  the  most  modern  machinery  for  econom- 
ically and  quickly  ^  v  unloading  the  vessels.  This  is  best 

illustrated  by  a  statement  that  a  steamer 
carrying  as  high  as  2,800  tons  of  ore 
arrives  at  the  docks  in  the  morning, 
and  is  discharged,  fueled,  and  ready  to 
leave  the  port  again  for  the  next  cargo 
by  sundown.  In  addition  to  the  above 
lines,  the  firm  is  a  large  handler  of  coal, 
and  the  business  transacted  annually 

CLEVELAND  :    BROWN'S  PATENT  MOVABLE  BRIDGE  TRAMWAY   SYSTEM.        amQunts  fco  many  miHions  of  dollars. 

Labor-saving  machines  are  revolutionizing  all  kinds  of  industry.  Spinning  is  now 
almost  entirely  mechanical,  and  weaving  still  more  so.  The  coal-miner's  pick  is  rapidly 
becoming  a  thing  of  the  past,  as  the  new  electric  coal-diggers  are  being  put  on  the  market. 
Even  the  work  of  longshoremen  and  hod-carriers  is  now  being  done  by  machinery.  The 
slow  and  laborious  method  of  discharging  or  loading  a  vessel  is  almost  entirely  done  away 
with,  while  hoisting  machines  and  tramways  neatly  and  speedily  do  the  same  work.  The  Brown 
Hoisting  and  Conveying  Machine  Company,  of  , 

Cleveland,  organized  in  1 88 1,  and  having  a  capital 
of  $  I  oo,  ooo,  devotes  itself  to  manufacturing  labor- 
saving  machines  of  this  nature.  Alexander  E. 
Brown,  the  originator  of  the  concern,  and  still 
its  general  manager,  is  a  genius  in  this  line  of 
invention.  In  fact,  it  requires  an  inventor  to 
apply  this  same  system  of  hoisting  and  convey- 
ing to  its  various  uses,  and  for  the  construction 
of  the  same  to  suit  the  varied  conditions  of  sur- 
roundings where  the  apparatus  is  to  be  used. 
The  Brown  system  has  been  exceedingly  successful  for  handling  ore  and  coal,  and  their 
traveling  crane  for  ship-builders'  use  has  accomplished  a  remarkable  saving  of  time  and 


CLEVELAND  : 
BROWN  HOISTING  AND  CONVEYING  MACHINE    COMPANY. 


THE  STATE   OF   OHIO. 


681 


labor,  in  handling  the  heavy  plates  used  in  the  construction  of  armored  vessels,  iron  boats, 
and  similar  works.  Besides  the  coal  and  ore  and  other  tramways,  they  manufacture  fur- 
nace-hoists for  the  automatic  charging  of  blast-furnaces  and  kilns,  which  dispense  with  the 
employment  of  top-fillers;  all  operations  being  conducted  by  one  man  located  at  the  engine 
at  the  base  of  the  hoist.  The  concern  also  makes  cantilever  derricks,  power  and  hand-travel- 
ing cranes,  automatic  dumping  buckets,  and  many  other  similar  articles. 

Worcester  R.  Warner  and  Ambrose  Swasey, 
the  two  members  who  constitute  the  firm  of  War-  _^r.-~_ 
ner  &  Swasey,  began  the  manufacture  of  ma- 
chinery in  1880,  with  a  small  force  of  skilled 
workmen,  who  came  with  them  from  New  Eng- 
land. From  the  first  there  has  been  a  growing 
demand  for  their  products,  until  now  they  employ 
a  force  of  150  men,  and  their  large  factory  is 
filled  with  the  most  modern  tools  and  appliances 
especially  adapted  to  their  work.  Among  the 
specialties  which  they  manufacture  are  astronom-  CLEVELAND  :  WARNER  &  SWASEY. 

ical  telescopes  and  domes,  and  machine-tools  for  iron  and  brass  work.  This  firm  has 
made  for  many  of  the  leading  colleges  and  observatories  of  the  country  telescopes  and 
domes  which  are  noted  for  their  excellent  workmanship.  The  equatorial  telescope  mount- 
ings, designed  and  built  by  them,  vary  in  size  from  the  four-inch  aperture  to  the  36-inch 
telescope  for  the  Lick  Observatory,  on  Mt.  Hamilton,  Cal.,  which  was  erected  by  them  in 
1888.  The  steel  observatory  domes  built  by  them,  although  in  many  cases  very  large  in 
diameter  and  necessarily  very  heavy,  yet  by  means  of  their  improved  anti-friction  running 
mechanism  they  are  made  to  revolve  with  great  ease,  a  requisite  highly  appreciated  by 
astronomers.  Among  the  domes  recently  erected  are  two  for  the  new  Naval  Observatory, 
at  Washington,  one  of  which  is  26^  feet  and  the  other  45  feet  in  diameter.  In  the  line  of 
machine-tools,  which  represents  a  large  proportion  of  their  production,  while  making  a 
general  variety  of  iron  and  steel-working  machinery,  they  give  special  attention  to  the  de- 
signing and  construction  of  machinery,  tools,  and  fixtures,  and  the  equipment  of  plants  for 
the  manufacture  of  brass  goods  for  steam,  gas,  and  water.  By  their  improved  methods  in 
this  direction  they  have  been  able  to  greatly  reduce  the  cost  of  the  manufacture  of  such 
goods,  and  for  this  reason,  and  also  because  of  the  excellent  quality  of  their  machinery,  they 
have  found  a  ready  market  in  this  country  and  in  Europe  among  the  leading  manufacturers. 

It  does  not  require  a  very  aged  man  to  remember  the  first  train  of  cars  that  ran  in  the 
country.  The  South-Carolina  Railroad,  completed  in  1833,  was  the  initial  railroad  in 
America.  The  improvement  in  the  building  of  cars  is  never-ceasing.  In  1849,  l6  7ears 
after  the  first  railroad  in  the  United  States,  the  manufacture  of  rolling-stock  in  the  West 
was  begun  at  Dayton  by  E.  E.  Barney,  who  died  in  1880.  The  first  firm  name  was  Barney, 
Parker  &  Co. ;  then  Barney,  Smith  &  Co.  followed,  and  continued  under  that  style  until 
1867,  when  the  Barney  &  Smith  Manufacturing  Company  came  into  existence.  The  cor- 
poration started  with  $500,000, 
but  this  was  increased  to  $1,000,- 
ooo ;  and  now  the  property  involved 
is  worth  several  times  that  sum. 
Their  plant  covers  over  30  acres, 
and  they  employ  1,800  men.  It  is 
one  of  the  largest  and  best-con- 
structed manufacturing  plants  of 
any  character  in  America,  and  is 
an  industry  in  which  the  State  of 
Ohio  takes  great  pride.  The  an-  DAYTON  :  BARNEY  &  SMJTH  MANUFACTURING  COMPANY. 


682 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


COLUMBUS  :    KILBOURNE  &  JACOBS 
MANUFACTURING    CO. 


nual  pay-roll  amounts  to  $1,000,000.  An  idea  of  the  magnitude  of  the  business  can  be 
obtained  from  the  fact  that  20,000,000  feet  of  lumber  are  consumed  every  year.  This  means 
an  annual  business  of  over  $3,000,000.  The  average  capacity  of  the  works  is  15  freight-cars 

and  one  passenger-car  a  day.  They  are  one  of  the 
largest  car-building  houses  in  the  world ;  and  the 
cars  as  they  come  from  these  enormous  shops  show 
the  results  of  art,  skill,  ingenuity,  and  mechanism 
of  the  highest  order. 

The  increase  in  manufacturing  in  all  lines 
throughout  the  West  has  been  phenomenal.  As  the  population 
spread  over  the  open  country,  establishing  thriving  towns,  the 
demand  for  increased  railroad  facilities  became  imperative,  thus 
leading  to  the  greatest  and  most  rapid  era  of  railroad  building  ever 
recorded.  This  necessitated  the  invention  and  manufacture  of 
improved  machinery  for  moving  the  large  amounts  of  earth  for  grading  the  road-beds  of 
the  new  lines,  and  this  demand  led  to  the  establishment  some  17  years  ago  of  the  Kil- 
bourne  &  Jacobs  Manufacturing  Company,  in  Columbus.  They  began  in  a  small  way,  by 
manufacturing  the  common  drags  or  dump-scrapers  ;  but  by  energy,  push  and  inventive 
genius,  have  now  grown  to  a  corporation  of  $500,000  capital,  with  a  surplus  of  $100,000. 
They  manufacture  the  latest  improved  machinery  for  earth-moving,  including  wheel 
scrapers  and  steam  shovels,  with  which  earth  is  at  present  moved  at  about  a  fifth  the  cost 
of  carts  and  wagons.  In  addition  to  this,  they  manufacture  trucks,  baggage-barrows,  and 
express-wagons,  with  which  a  large  majority  of  railroads  and  jobbing  houses  are  now  fur- 
nished by  them.  Their  specialty,  however,  is  steel  stamped,  or  drawn  ware,  from  which 
articles  heretofore  cut  and  riveted  are  now  drawn  from  one  sheet  of  solid  metal  into  any 
shape  desired.  This  is  an  entirely  new  industry,  and  the  various  forms  which  sheet-steel 
can  be  made  to  assume  under  great  pressure  are  almost  inconceivable.  Steel  one  fourth  of 
an  inch  thick  can  be  drawn  into  steel  sinks,  bath-tubs,  and  other  similar  articles,  or  made 
of  lighter  material  into  bottles,  balls,  and  boxes.  Their  main  works  cover  14  acres ;  and 
their  wheelbarrow  works,  which  produce  from  600  to  800  barrows  daily,  are  adjacent,  and 
cover  eight  acres  of  ground.  This  is  a  typical  American  company,  which  by  their  enter- 
prise and  energy  are  at  present  sending  goods  to  all  parts  of  this  and  foreign  countries. 

With  many  other  industries  that  developed  West  when  the  vast  lumber  regions  were  dis- 
covered was  that  of  carriage-making.  Formerly  that  business  was  confined  almost  exclu- 
sively to  the  East,  but  the  matter  of  freight  both  ways  was  brought  into  the  question,  and 
factories  began  to  spring  up  all  over  the  West  with  the  growing  demand.  These  were  the 
more  numerous  in  Ohio  and  Michigan,  owing  to  the  proximity  of  the  timber,  iron  and 
leather.  In  Cincinnati  there  is  a  long  line  of  buggy  and  carriage  makers,  including  some 
individually  extensive  concerns,  producing,  it  is  said,  a  greater  number  of  these  vehicles 

than  is  produced  in  any  other  one  city.  They 
are  mainly  a  cheaper  grade  of  vehicles.  At 
Columbus,  however,  has  developed  the  greatest 
buggy  and  carriage  manufactory  in  this  country. 
It  is  the  Columbus  Buggy  Company,  a  concern 
known  throughout  America  for  its  quantity  and 
quality  of  carriages  and  buggies,  making  in 
value  the  largest  output  in  this  line.  Allied  with 
it,  and  in  one  sense  its  forerunner,  is  the  Peters 
Dash  Company,  the  original  intent  of  which  was 
the  manufacture  of  carnage  dashers  and  fenders, 
which  were  introduced  by  them  in  this  country. 
COLUMBUS  :  COLUMBUS  BUGGY  co.  The  yearly  output  of  this  specialty  is  about 


THE  STATE   OF  OHIO. 


683 


SPRINGFIELD  :     P.    P.    MAST    &    CO. 


300,  OCXD  dashers.  The  business  was  founded  in  1873,  and  has  branches  at  Chicago,  Omaha, 
Detroit,  Cincinnati,  Kansas  City  and  San  Francisco.  They  employ  from  800  to  1,500  men, 
and  have  a  yearly  pay-roll  of  fully  $500,000.  The  Columbus  Buggy  Company  and  the  Peters 

Dash  Company  form  the  foremost  single  indus- 
trial establishment  in  Columbus,  and  their  large 
group  of  fine  and  lofty  brick  factories  is  one  of 
the  interesting  sights  of  Ohio's  capital. 

Farming  is  altogether  different  from  what 
it  was  half  a  century  ago.  The  introduction  of 
farming  implements  for  every  specific  part  of 
the  work  has  brought  about  the  change.  The 
immensity  of  the  grain  fields  made  it  a  slow  job 
casting  the  seed  by  hand,  and  not  only  slow  but 
very  irregular.  This  apparent  demand  for  some- 
thing to  give  better  accommodation  was  met  by 
P.  P.  Mast  &  Company,  who  own  the  largest  grain-drill  factory  in  the  world.  The  firm 
was  started  in  1854,  and  has  continued  in  its  present  location  in  Springfield  to  the  present 
time,  the  president,  P.  P.  Mast,  still  at  the  head,  being  one  of  Ohio's  citizens  of  world- wide 
fame,  connected  with  several  great  industries  and  many  public  institutions.  The  plant 
covers  about  20  acres  of  ground,  and  the  area  of  floor-space  is  about  5^  acres.  From  350 
to  400  men  are  employed  the  whole  year  round,  and  the  annual  pay-roll  amounts  to  $200,000. 
The  products  comprise  all  styles  of  grain-drills  and  machines  for  sowing  seed  broadcast. 
Although  these  are  their  specialties,  they  also  manufacture  cultivators,  hay-rakes  and  cider- 
mills.  P.  P.  Mast  &  Company  have  numerous  branch-houses,  all  over  the  country. 

As  business  is  now  being  conducted  no  firm  feels  secure  without  a  safe  or  a  vault,  or 
both.  The  safe-deposit  and  trust  companies  necessarily  have  the  most  thoroughly  con- 
structed safes  and  vaults,  and  a  great  demand  has  sprung  up  for  complicated  locks.  Com- 
bination-locks figure  on  even  small  office-safes,  and  banks  and  financial  institutions  and 
great  corporations  use  the  time-lock.  Hall's  Safe  &  Lock  Company,  of  Cincinnati,  are  the 
largest  manufacturers  of  safes,  vaults  and  locks  in  the  world.  The  business  was  started 
about  50  years  ago,  as  a  private  enterprise.  In  1867  the  company  came  into  existence  as  a 
corporation,  with  a  capital  stock  of  $350,000.  The  works  cover  350,000  square  feet  of 
floor  space,  and  employ  from  700  to  800  men.  The  buildings,  all  of  brick,  cover  two  great 
squares  in  the  business  part  of  Cincinnati.  THe  annual  pay-roll  amounts  to  nearly 
$500,000.  The  product  comprises 
fire-proof  and  burglar-proof  safes, 
and  bank  and  safe-deposit  vaults. 
They  also  manufacture  combina- 
tion and  time  locks.  The  highest 
award  at  the  Centennial  Exposi- 
tion, in  1876,  was  given  to  this 
company.  Hall's  Safe  &  Lock 
Company  is  universally  recognized 
as  the  largest  safe  and  vault  manu- 
facturers in  the  world ;  and  it  is 
also  said  that  they  actually  do  double  the  quantity  of  kindred  work  of  any  other  company. 
Their  safes  and  vaults  are  to  be  seen  all  over  the  continent. 

The  development  of  office  appliances  has  grown  much  more  rapidly  in  the  past  few  years 
than  most  people  imagine,  and  especially  is  this  so  in  the  various  appliances  for  the  rapid 
and  orderly  filing  and  preservation  of  papers.  Every  office  and  counting-room  nowadays 
considers  a  filing  cabinet  of  some  kind  an  absolute  necessity,  the  same  as  the  office  safe,  the 
telephone  and  the  writing  machine  ;  and  as  the  demand  for  improved  appliances  has  grown, 


CINCINNATI  :     HALL'S    SAFE   AND    LOCK   CO. 


684 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


CINCINNATI  ;    THE  GLOBE   CO. 


it  has  naturally  encouraged  invention  and  enterprise 
on  the  part  of  manufacturers.  The  Globe  Company 
of  Cincinnati  and  New  York,  which  stands  at  the 
front  in  its  particular  line,  has  achieved  a  marked 
success.  The  company  was  incorporated  in  1882,  and 
has  had  a  marvelous  growth  in  view  of  business  and 
popularity.  The  extensive  factory  at  the  corner  of 
Second  and  John  Streets  in  Cincinnati,  having  a  floor 
area  of  60,000  square  feet,  employs  200  hands,  while 
the  factory  in  New  York  employs  50  hands.  The 
class  of  goods  turned  out  is  filing  cabinets  of  every 
description  for  letters  and  documents,  fine  office-desks, 
and  also  a  number  of  smaller  articles  of  paper  stock, 
the  latter  manufactured  especially  for  the  stationery  trade.  The  Globe  Company  takes  a 
special  pride  in  its  furniture  work,  which  is  unsurpassed  for  construction  and  finish. 

For  some  years  past  the  manufacturers  of  straw  board  (better  known  to  the  public  as 
paste-board)  have  been  making  but  little  money.  The  production  was  greater  than  the 
demand,  and  the  competition  was  injudicious.  To  overcome  this  difficulty  the  leading 
mill-owners  were  induced  to  sell  their  plants  to  the  American  Straw  Board  Company,  a  great 
organization  with  able  executive  management,  which  proposed  to  serve  the  public  with  the 
best  possible  products  at  the  lowest  possible  cost  consistent  with  reasonable  profit.  This 
was  in  no  way  a  trust:  all  the  manufacturers  and  mills  sold  out  entire,  and  lost  their  identity. 
The  organization  was  effected  in  June,  1889,  and  the  corporation,  with  a  capital  of 
$6,000,000,  began  business.  The  company  operates  20  fine  mills,  giving  a  capacity  from 
thirty-five  machines,  ranging  from  44  inches  to  104  inches  in  width.  Ohio  has  mills  of  the 
American  Straw  Board  Company  at  Lima,  Dayton,  Portage,  and  Circleville  ;  and  there  are 
others  at  Noblesville  and  Anderson,  Indiana ;  and  at  Quincy  and  Lockport,  Illinois.  These 
mills  are  in  excellent  order,  and  represent  years  of  the  keenest  and  ablest  experience,  and 
an  actual  investment  of  several  millions  of  dollars.  The  plan  of  the  company  is  to  regulate 
the  supply  by  the  demand.  When  the  latter  falls  off,  as  many  mills  as  necessary  are  closed, 
and  not  started  up  until  business  is  more  brisk.  The  straw  board  and  tar  board  turned  out 
are  of  all  qualities  and  varieties,  to  meet  every  demand,  but  the  price-cutting,  once  the  bane 
of  the  market,  is  now  done  away  with,  and  yet  without  any  injury  to  the  consumers.  The 
company  owns  and  controls  numerous  patents.  In  the  making  of  straw  board  lumber  it  has 
invented  and  introduced  a  new  article  of  faB3|ai^^^^^^^^^KlBflH^^^^^^Kliiii9l 
commerce  that  is  destined  to  find  an  unlim-  f\^ 

ited  demand.   This  lumber  is  light,  and  not     ^BH 
inflammable  ;  is  tough,  and  yet  elastic  ;  is     j 
durable,    yet   easily  manipulated.      It  is 
prepared  on  its  surface  to  resemble  all 
woods,  all  metals  and  all  minerals ;  and 
is  made  plain  and  embossed,  in  single 
color  or  variegated.     One  plant  at  Lima 
is  used  for  making  egg-cases.    The  com- 
pany has  branch  offices  at  Boston,  New   York,   Philadelphia,  Cincinnati,   and  elsewhere  ; 
and  its  main  office  is  in  the  Pullman  Building,  at  Chicago. 

The  manufacture  of  paper  is  now  both  a  great  and  a  peculiar  industry,  and  the  daily  con- 
sumption is  enormous,  for  newspapers,  books,  periodicals,  wrapping,  and  hundreds  of  other 
uses.  While  the  mills  make  the  paper,  and  to  a  certain  extent  dispose  of  their  own  pro- 
duct, there  is  in  Cincinnati  a  jobbing-house  known  to  the  paper  trade  of  the  whole  country, 
the  Chatfield  &  Woods  Company,  the  oldest  and  foremost  in  its  line  in  the  Ohio  Valley. 
The  business  was  originally  started  under  the  firm  style  of  Chatfield  &  Woods,  which  was 


NEW    PORTAGE  :  AMERICAN    STRAW    BOARD   AND    LUMBER    CO. 


THE  STATE   OF  OHIO.  685 

one  of  the  oldest  business  firms  in  Cincinnati.     They  not  only  handle 
paper  at  wholesale,  and  as  agents  for  various  mills,  but  also  are  large 
owners  in  mills,  and  some  years  ago  established  an  extensive  manufactory 
for  paper  bags  and  flour  sacks.     These  latter  two  products  are  made 
of  manilla  paper,  and  require  special  machinery, 
some  of  which  make  the  regulation  Union  bags. 
After  the  death  of  the  senior  member  of  the  firm 
it  went  out  of  existence  and  was  succeeded  by  two 
close  corporations,  The  Chatfield  &  Woods  Com- 
pany, and  the  Chatfield  &  Woods  Bag  Company, 
which  are  collectively  the  largest  house  in  this  line 
in  the  West.     The  paper-bag   factory  is  a  large 
five-story  brick  structure,  having  a  capacity  of  turn- 
CINCINNATI  :  THE  CHATFIELD  &  WOODS  co.          ing  out  many  millions  of  paper  bags  of  all  sizes 
and  varieties,  by  machinery,  which  receives  the  paper  in  a  roll  and  delivers  the  bags  all 
folded,  pasted,  and  counted. 

Since  the  first  patent  granted  in  1836  for  the  manufacture  of  matches,  the  industry  has 
grown  enormously.  Over  6,000,000  gross  of  matches  of  14,400  matches  to  a  gross  are 
consumed  annually  in  this  country.  A  factory  was  built  at  Westville  (Conn.)  in  1830.  Sev- 
eral others  started  in  the  East,  including  the  Byam  &  Carleton  in  Boston,  and  the  Swift  & 
Courtney  in  Wilmington  (Del.).  Factories  were  started  in  Chicago  in  1871,  and  later  in  St. 
Louis,  and  elsewhere.  Among  the  earlier  ones  was  the  Barber  Match  Company  of  Akron, 
Ohio,  established  in  1847.  This  factory  is  the  largest  in  the  country,  if  not  in  the  world,  having 
a  capacity  of  100,000,000  matches  per  day.  Other  factories  also  started  in  the  East  and 

West.      In  1 88 1    29  of  these  were  incorporated  as _«,=„ , 

the  Diamond  Match  Company,  a  corporation 
which  has  grown  to  be  one  of  the  most  successful 
manufacturing  enterprises  on 'the  continent.  It 
has  a  capital  of  $6,000,000,  upon  which  dividends 
are  regularly  paid.  The  Diamond  Match  Com- 
pany has,  besides  its  factory  at  Akron,  others  at 
Boston,  Westville,  Wilmington,  Detroit,  St. 
Louis,  and  Oshkosh,  and  smaller  ones  elsewhere. 
The  company's  executive  offices  are  in  the  Pull- 
man Building,  Chicago.  The  matches  in  use  in  every  nook  and  corner  of  this  country  are 
almost  exclusively  those  produced  by  the  Diamond  Match  Company.  The  Diamond  Match 
Company  consumes  27,000,000  feet  of  pine  lumber  in  the  manufacture  of  matches  annually, 
and  20  tons  of  paper  and  straw-board  a  day,  all  of  which  it  manufactures.  It  has  a  tract  of 
white  pine  in  nearly  one  body  of  400,  ooo,  ooo  feet,  enough  for  many  years'  supply. 

Cooperage  deserves  mention  among  the  important  and  valuable  manufactures.  It  rep- 
resents an  extensive  industry,  and  the  achieve- 
ments of  to-day  in  this  line  compared  with  the 
efforts  of  20  years  ago  seem  almost  incredible. 
The  Cincinnati  Cooperage  Company  daily  pro- 
duces 6,000  complete  and  perfect  packages. 
Their  products  are  the  highest  grades  of  tight 
work,  made  from  the  choicest  white  oak  only, 
and  embracing  packages  for  beer,  ale,  whisky, 
wine,  lard,  and  lead.  This  concern  is  the  largest 
of  the  kind  in  the  world.  Their  plant  at  Cincin- 
nati covers  ten  acres ;  and  here  they  employ  500 
CINCINNATI:  CINCINNATI  COOPERAGE  COMPANY.  men,  the  yearly  pay-roll  reaching  $600,000.  The 


AKRON  I    DIAMOND    MATCH    COMPANY. 


686  KIN&S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

stock  of  timber  in  their  yards  is  never  less  than  5,000,000  staves,  and  the  yearly  consumption 
is  many  times  that  quantity.  They  also  use  enormously  of  other  materials,  one  large  item 
being  hoop-iron.  They  own  extensive  tracts  covering  thousands  of  acres  of  the  best  white- 
oak  sections  of  Indiana,  Kentucky,  and  Tennessee.  In  these  localities  they  have  mills  con- 
tinually making  staves,  and  giving  employment  there  to  I, ooo  people.  Their  stock  is  mostly 
transported  to  Cincinnati  by  water,  their  own  barges  and  steamboats  being  occupied  in  this 
work.  Outside  towing  service  is  also  largely  employed.  The  investment  of  this  concern  is 
over  $1,000,000,  and  their  large  trade  is  due  principally  to  the  superiority  of  their  products. 
Their  appliances  and  processes  are  mostly  their  own  inventions,  and  are  used  exclusively  by 
themselves,  so  that  no  competition  can  interfere  with  the  Cincinnati  Cooperage  Company. 

No  city  in  the  West  is  better  equipped  with  ma- 
chine-builders than  is  Cincinnati.  Iron-working 
machines  are  made  by  several  firms,  and  the  wood- 
working machinery  industry  is  represented  by  J.  A. 
Fay  &  Co.,  the  leading  house  in  America  in  this 
line  of  machinery.  In  place  of  laborious  methods  of 
reducing  lumber  into  the  thousands  of  various  forms 
in  which  it  is  used,  this  concern  is  furnishing  improved 
machinery  in  the  way  of  planing,  mortising,  tenon- 
ing, molding,  sawing,  and  other  machines  that  ren-  CINCINNATI  :  j.  A.  FAY  *  co. 
der  the  work  of  preparing  the  material  and  putting  it  together  simply  mechanical.  J.  A. 
Fay  &  Co.  were  the  first  to  introduce  these  improvements  on  an  important  scale,  their 
career  dating  back  to  1834.  In  the  year  1866  the  firm  of  J.  A.  Fay  &  Co.  was  incorporated 
into  a  stock  company,  and  it  has  a  paid-in  capitalization  of  $500,000.  The  plant  occupies 
several  buildings,  and  covers  a  floor-space  of  about  seven  acres,  where  over  400  men  are 
employed.  Their  output  comprises  between  300  and  400  different  kinds  of  machines  for 
use  in  wood  reduction.  They  have  taken  over  300  medals  of  gold,  silver,  and  bronze  at 
various  international  and  State  expositions.  At  Paris,  in  1889,  they  were  awarded  the 
"Grand  Prix,"  it  being  the  first  time  that  so  distinguished  an  honor  had  been  conferred 
upon  anyone  distinctively  engaged  in  the  production  of  this  class  of  machinery.  W.  Howard 
Doane,  president  of  the  company,  received  the  decoration  of  the  Legion  of  Honor,  conferred 
by  the  French  Government  in  acknowledgment  of  the  many  important  inventions  he  has 
placed  before  the  world.  They  have  established  branch-houses  in  Chicago  and  St.  Louis, 
and  have  special  representatives  in  the  most  important  cities  in  the  States,  and  at  London, 
Paris,  Hamburg,  Sydney,  and  Melbourne. 

Two  questions  which  are  receiving  much  attention  from  the  health  departments  of  all 
cities  are  those  of  ventilation  and  sewage.  The  improvements  made  in  the  latter  are  mani- 
fest. There  are  several  different  systems,  but  it  has  been  demonstrated  in  numerous  cases 
and  in  different  countries  that  the  use  of  sewer-pipe  is  far  the  best.  The  city  of  Akron  is 
noticeable  for  the  manufacture  of  an  excellent  vitrified  pipe,  used  for  sewers  and  drains.  As 
the  train  draws  into  the  city  large  quantities  of  pipe  maybe  seen  piled  up  in  extensive  yards. 
Likewise  in  yards  in  all  the  great  cities  of  the  Union  Akron  sewer-pipe  can  be  obtained. 
The  Akron  Sewer-Pipe  Company  is  the  oldest  and  best-known  manufacturer  of  this  pipe, 
being  the  original  and  sole  manufacturers  of  the  celebrated  "  Standard  Akron  Sewer-Pipe." 

In  1848,  D.  E.  Hill,  the  president  and  general 
manager,  made  his  first  piece  of  pipe ;  and  he 
has  been  identified  with  this  industry  ever  since. 
The  present  plant  covers  25  acres,  and  the  an- 
nual output  is  about  2,000  carloads.  The  capi- 
tal stock  of  the  company  is  $200,000.  The 
managers  of  the  Akron  Sewer-Pipe  Company 
AKRON  SEWER-PIPE  COMPANY.  also  own  and  control  the  Hill  Sewer-Pipe 


687 


AKRON  :     AKRON    CEREAL    MILLS    OF   THE 
F.    SCHUMACHER     MILLING   COMPANY. 


THE  STATE   OF  OHIO. 

Company,  whose  works  adjoin  those  of  the  former  company. 
Besides  being  the  oldest  industry  of  this  kind,  the  Akron 
Sewer- Pipe  Company  does  the  largest  business. 

The  superfine  quality  of  cereal  products  is  a  credit  to  the 
enterprise  of  American  manufacturers.  Their  nutriment 
and  deliciousness  are  such  that  they  can  be  used  at  the  break- 
fast-table to  the  absolute  exclusion  of  meat,  and  throughout 
the  land  there  is  hardly  any  food  so  acceptable  to  all  mem- 
bers of  the  family,  as  a  dish  of  porridge  made  of 
rolled  avena,  parched  farinose  or  rolled  wheat. 
These  and  other  goods  in  that  line  are  exten- 
sively manufactured  by  the  F.  Schumacher  Mill- 
ing Company,  of  Akron,  Ohio,  its  president, 
Ferdinand  Schumacher,  now  commonly  known  as 
The  Oat-meal  King,  being  the  pioneer  oat-meal 
manufacturer  of  the  United  States.  He  began  on 
a  small  scale  in  1856,  and,  gradually  increasing 
his  facilities,  lost  half  a  million  dollars  by  a  de- 
structive fire  on  the  morning  of  March  6,  1886. 
Nothing  daunted,  he  immediately  chartered  a  com- 
pany with  an  authorized  capital  of  $ 2,000,000.  The  plant  consists  of  five  mills,  converting 
daily  14,000  bushels  of  wheat,  oats,  corn,  barley,  rye,  and  buckwheat  into  choice  food  for 
man  and  beast.  To  keep  sufficient  stock,  and  handle  its  grain  to  best  advantage,  the  com- 
pany has  three  elevators,  a  special  grain-cleaning  house,  a  dryhouse  and  a  cooper-shop. 
Running  night  and  day,  the  firm  employs  300  men  and  70  girls,  putting  up  cereals  in  one 
and  two  pound  packages.  The  annual  output  amounts  to  $3,000,000.  The  excellence  of 
these  products  was  recognized  at  the  Paris  Exposition  in  1867,  at  Philadelphia  in  1876, 
and  wherever  exhibited,  so  that  to-day  the  F.  Schumacher  Milling  Company  is  not  only 
the  pioneer  but  by  far  the  foremost  representative  of  this  great  industry. 

A  product  of  the  most  essential  value  to  painters  is  white  lead,  which  should,  on 
account  of  its  body,  be  the  base  of  all  first-class  paints.  The  old  and  only  reliable 
method  of  preparing  it  is  known  as  the  ''Old  Dutch  Process."  In  this  method  of  manu- 
facture, refined  lead  is  melted  into  thin  sheets  called  buckles,  and  put  into  pots,  in  the  bot- 
tom cups  of  which  acetic  acid  is  placed.  Rows  of  these  pots,  massed  into  what  are  called 
tiers,  are  covered  with  spent  tan  in  "corroding  houses,"  and  allowed  to  stand  for  90  days. 
The  latent  heat  in  the  tan  volatilizes  the  acid  in  the  pots,  which  attacks  the  lead,  converting 
it  into  acetate,  which  is  re-converted,  by  the  decomposition  of  the  tan,  into  a  basic  carbon- 
ate of  lead.  This  carbonate  of  lead  is  then  collected  and  ground  in  water  through  mill- 
stones, and  dried,  after  which  it  is  mixed  with  linseed  oil  and  re-ground,  forming  commer- 
cial white  lead.  The  Eckstein  White  Lead  Company,  of  Cincinnati,  is  one  of  the  largest 
companies  in  this  business  in  the  country, 
and  their  universally  known  "Phoenix" 
white  lead  is  among  the  unsurpassed  pro- 
ducts in  this  line.  Their  plant  covers  four 
acres,  on  which  are  a  group  of  substantial 
brick  buildings.  The  machinery  is  all  of 
the  most  improved  pattern,  great  care  hav- 
ing been  taken  in  designing  it,  to  guard 
the  workmen  from  the  poisonous  lead  dust. 
The  capital  stock  at  the  time  of  incorpora- 
tion, 1880,  was  $500,000,  but  it  has  been 
raised  subsequently  to  $1,000,000. 


CINCINNATI  I     ECKSTEIN    WHITE    LEAD   CO. 


688 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


CLEVELAND 


The  Eckstein  White  Lead  Company,  established  in  1837,  is  also  one  of  the  oldest  concerns 
in  the  West  for  manufacturing  white  lead. 

A  penny  saved  is  a  penny  earned,  and  time  is  money.  The  combination  of  these  two 
proverbs  no  doubt  accounts  for  the  hurry  of  all  industrial  methods.  Even 
in  painting  this  change  is  marked.  No  longer  does  the  painter  pour  his 
linseed  oil  into  a  keg  containing  dry  color  or  white  lead,  and  stir  for 

an  hour,  imperfectly  mixing  his 
paint.  Now  this  work  is  done  by 
machinery,  and  both  paint  and 
colors  come  more  or  less  prepared 
ready  for  use.  The  Sherwin-Wil- 
liams Company  of  Cleveland,  Chi- 
cago and  New  York  are  the  fore- 
most in  their  line,  as  making 

THE  SHERWIN-WILLIAMS  co.        ^§i|l||§|  thoroughly  reliable  paints  and  colors 

for  all  uses.  Their  principal  factory  jaj|P2»  js  at  Cleveland,  and  is  very  extensive. 
The  company  began  manufacturing  L —  — I  in  1873,  and  the  growth  of  their  busi- 
ness has  been  phenomenal.  They  manufacture  the  prepared  paints,  which  bear  the  "Sher- 
win-Williams" name,  oil  colors,  fresco  colors,  and  quick-drying  coach  colors.  They  do  all 
the  work  at  their  own  factories,  including  the  manufacture  of  tin  cans,  and  printing  of 
labels.  The  Cleveland  plant  consists  of  several  large  brick  buildings,  connected  with  each 
other  by  bridges,  all  located  in  the  business  center,  with  the  best  of  receiving  and  shipping 
facilities  both  by  rail  and  water.  The  Sherwin-Williams  Company  have  also  branch  works 
and  warehouses  at  Chicago,  where  all  their  Western  business  is  conducted,  and  for  the 
Eastern  States  at  New  York,  with  warehouses  also  in  Boston,  San  Francisco  and  elsewhere. 

The  business  of  D.  H.  Baldwin  &  Co.  was  started  in  1862  by  D.  H.  Baldwin,  whose 
wide  experience  in  Ohio  and  Kentucky  as  a  teacher  of  vocal  music,  and  later  in  the  public 
schools  of  Cincinnati,  gave  him  a  knowledge  of  the  wants  of  the  people,  and  enabled  him 
rapidly  to  develop  his  business  on  broad  lines  then  unknown  to  the  piano  and  organ  trade. 
Lucien  Wulsin  entered  Mr.  Baldwin's  employ  early  in  1866,  and  in  1873  tneY  formed  the 
firm  of  D.  H.  Baldwin  &  Co.  As  the  business  increased,  and  a  larger  territory  came  un- 
der its  influence,  other  employees,  Van  Buren,  Armstrong,  and  Clarence  Wulsin,  were 
admitted  to  the  firm,  and  the  business  was  gradually  formed  into  three  great  divisions  — 
that  in  Indianapolis  in  1872,  and  in  Louisville  in  1878.  By  these  divisions,  each  managed 
by  a  resident  partner,  the  trade  is  systematically  controlled  and  pushed  over  the  fertile  and 
populous  territory  drained  by  the  Ohio,  Cumberland  and  Tennessee  Rivers,  including  Ohio, 
Indiana,  Illinois,  Kentucky,  Tennessee,  West  Virginia,  and  parts  of  Georgia,  Alabama, 
Mississippi  and  Arkansas.  High  commercial  integrity,  care  for  the  interest  of  its  patrons, 
and  systematic  attention  to  its  business,  have  made  the  firm  one  of  the  largest  and  most  dis- 
tinguished in  the  country  in  the  piano  and  organ  trade ;  especially  distinguished  by  the 

thorough  and  complete  system  of  distribution  and 

sale,  which  it  was  the  first  to  develop  in  this  line. 
Its  principal  divisions  with  branches  at  prominent 
points  and  closely  related  agencies  permeate  every 
part  of  the  territory,  and  offer  to  the  most  dis- 
tant buyer  all  advantages  in  selection,  prices  and 
terms  which  can  be  secured  in  the  great  competi- 
tive markets.  The  business  thus  partakes  of  the 
triple  quality  of  the  factor  distributing  manufac- 
turers' goods,  the  dealer  actually  supplying  the 
wants  of  the  retail  buyer,  and  the  banker  who 
CINCINNATI  :  D.  H.  BALDWIN  &  co.  receives  and  handles  the  proceeds  of  the  sales. 


689 


CINCINNATI  I    JOHN    SHILLITO  COMPANY 


THE  STATE   OF   OHIO. 

One  of  the  most  notable  dry-goods,  or  rather  de- 
partment, establishments  in  the  United  States  is  the 
John  Shillito  Company  of  Cincinnati.  It  was  for  a 
long  time  known  as  the  "A.  T.  Stewart  of  the 
West ; "  for  in  the  best  days  of  Stewart,  the  grandest 
dry-goods  house  west  of  New  York  was  the  Shillito 
establishment.  And  it  is  noteworthy  that  even  to- 
day, 13  years  after  its  erection,  it  is  rarely  equalled. 
It  is  not  only  of  immense  proportions,  but  it  has 
grandeur  seldom  found  in  kindred  places.  While 
the  business  is  nominally  dry-goods,  it  is  in  fact  a 
bazaar,  wherein  can  be  found  anything  needed  by  an 
individual  or  a  household,  not  only  of  the  ordinary  grades,  but  also  of  the  finest  quality? 
everything  from  a  paper  of  pins  to  a  handsomely  upholstered  parlor-suit.  Few  business 
houses  have  a  better  record.  Over  60  years  ago  the  business  was  started  by  John  Shillito. 
He  was  succeeded  in  1879  by  his  sons,  and  they  in  turn  by  the  John  Shillito  Company,  in- 
corporated in  1882.  The  capital  stock  of  $2,000,000  is  all  paid  in,  besides  which  a  great 
surplus  is  invested.  The  buildings  erected  in  1878  have  a  floor-space  of  seven  acres,  and 
are  of  brick,  six  stories  high,  with  basement  and  sub-basement,  occupied  entirely  by  the 
company.  In  addition  to  this,  they  own  a  large  six-story  building,  in  which  are  located  the 
various  workrooms  of  the  establishment.  Over  1,000  persons  are  employed.  The  building 
is  lighted  by  electricity.  The  John  Shillito  Company  is  not  only  a  preeminent  retail 
establishment,  but  it  is  one  of  Cincinnati's  leading  wholesale  houses,  its  dry-goods  business 
extending  into  many  of  the  Ohio-Valley  States  and  throughout  the  South. 

Among  the  most  conspicuous  wholesale  and  retail  establishments  of  the  interior  States 
is  that  of  A.  E.  Burkhardt  &  Company,  of  Cincinnati.  The  firm  has  an  international  repu- 
tation for  the  rare  skill  displayed  in  its  fashionable  creations,  foremost  among  which  are 
Alaska  sealskin  and  high-class  cloth  garments.  The  store  has  admirable  appointments, 
and  the  most  complete  and  modern  facilities  for  the  transaction  of  the  business  in  all  its 
ramifications.  The  annual  output  of  the  wholesale  and  retail  departments  is  enormous. 
They  are  the  most  extensive  exporters  of  raw  fur  skins  in  America.  Their  wholesale  de- 
partments supply  the  greater  part  of  the  Middle,  Western,  Southwestern,  and  many  Eastern 
States,  with  the  celebrated  "Burkhardt"  sealskin  garments 
and  fine  cloth  cloak's,  for  women,  misses  and  children. 
The  chief  retail  departments  are  replete  with  sealskin  gar- 
ments, furs,  millinery,  cloaks,  men's  hats  and  lingerie  for 
women.  The  business  is  under  the  personal  management 
of  A.  E.  Burkhardt,  whose  knowledge  of  furriery  covers  a 
period  of  a  quarter  of  a  century.  He  is  in  constant  com- 
munication with  representatives  in  Paris,  Berlin,  London, 
and  Leipsic ;  and  though  Cincinnati  is  an  inland  city,  he 
brings  to  its  citizens  the  refined  and  newest  productions  from 
the  fashionable  centers  of  the  Old  World,  and  has  established 
the  Queen  City  of  the  West  as  one  of  the  few  fur  centers  in 
this  country.  It  is  questionable  whether  there  is  a  more 
CINCINNATI  :  A.  E  BURKHARDT  *  co.  handsomely  fitted-up  retail  establishment  in  America. 

Many  a  housewife  remembers  how  she  used  to  stop  the  baker  with  a  can  and  two  cents 
for  some  yeast.  It  was  not  until  1869  that  any  other  kind  of  yeast  was  introduced  in  this 
country  or  in  Canada.  Before  that  it  was  made  of  potatoes  and  hops  principally.  After 
the  era  of  the  liquid  yeast  came  the  dry-yeast  period  ;  and  then  the  era  of  the  compressed 
yeast  cake,  which  still  obtains.  This  was  introduced  by  Fleischmann  &  Co.,  in  1869.  The 
plant  is  located  at  Cincinnati,  and  covers  25  acres.  Five  or  six  thousand  people 


690 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


CINCINNATI  :     FLEISCHMANN    &    CO. 


are  in  the  employ  of  the  firm  ;  and  4,  ooo  bushels 
of  grain  are  used  daily  in  their  many  factories 
all  over  the  Union.  The  yeast  is  made  of  rye 
and  malt,  and  has  received  several  awards,  in- 
cluding the  highest  award  in  the  Centennial  Ex- 
position, in  1876.  The  capital  employed  by 
the  firm  is  about  $1,500,000,  and  besides  their 
large  plant  in  Cincinnati  they  have  one  of 
nearly  as  large  size  in  Brooklyn  (N.  Y. ).  They 
are  the  largest  manufacturers  in  their  line  in 
the  country  ;  and  1,000  wagons  belonging  to  the 
company  distribute  every  week,  in  all  the  cities 
of  the  Union,  3,500,000  cakes  and  70,000  pounds  of  compressed  yeast.  In  1883  tne  business 
passed  into  the  sole  control  of  Charles  and  Maximilian  Fleischmann,  two  brothers,  origin- 
ally from  Austria,  the  land  of  light,  palatable,  sweet,  and  nutritious  bread.  The  dainty  little 
tin-foiled  and  yellow-labelled  yeast-cakes  are  welcome  visitors  in  millions  of  households. 
A  large  part  of  the  theatrical  advertising  is  a  work  of  high  art,  and  the  famous  Stro- 
bridge  Lithographing  Company,  of  Cincinnati,  has  fairly  earned  the  highest  position  in  fine 
art  lithography  for  show  purposes.  It  stands  first  in  this  country  and  Europe  in  this  line 
of  work.  All  first-class  amusement  enterprises  have  frequent 
recourse  to  this  attractive  class  of  advertising.  When  colored 
lithography  was  first  adopted,  the  work  was  not  as  artistic  as  it 
is  now.  The  Strobridge  Lithographing  Company  were  proba- 
bly the  pioneers  in  producing  art-lithography  on  a  large  scale, 
and  the  bill-boards  and  hoardings  of  both  continents  have  been 
covered  with  bold  and  unique  art  works,  executed  by  them, 
which  would  have  been  considered  of  rare  merit  for  works  of 
far  greater  durability  than  the  ever-changing  bill-boards.  The 
corporation  dates  from  1867.  The  capital  stock  amounts  to 
$300,000.  They  employ  125  men  at  their  fine  five-story  brick 
structure,  which  covers  a  large  space.  The  annual  pay-roll 
amounts  to  $150,000.  Most  of  the  material  used  is  domestic,  but  some  grades  of  ink  and 
all  the  lithographic  stones  come  from  Europe.  While  they  make  a  specialty  of  lithographs 
for  circuses  and  theaters  and  other  amusements,  they  also  have  an  extensive  patronage  for 
work  for  all  commercial  purposes.  The  Strobridge  Company  have  several  branch  offices, 
and  are  taking  orders  in  New  York,  London,  and  Sydney,  Australia.  A  connoisseur  can 
at  a  glance  usually  recognize  the  work  of  the  Strobridge  Company  by  its  artistic  excellence, 
in  design,  coloring,  and  adaptability  to  the  purpose  for  which  it  is  intended. 

The  magnitude  of  the  western  farms  is  a  matter  of  wonder  to  an  Easterner  when  his  eyes 
first  wander  over  the  seemingly  never-ending  fields  of  grain.  These  immense  fields  made 
farming  not  only  a  systematic,  but  a  scientific 
industry.  Threshing  is  done  by  machinery,  win- 
nowing is  likewise,  machines  are  now  used  to  sow 
the  seed,  and  reapers  drive  through  the  waving 
fields  of  grain  and  accomplish  more  in  three  hours 
than  by  the  old  way  of  harvesting  could  be  done  in 
a  week.  The  improved  mowing,  reaping,  and 
binding  machines  of  to-day  cut  the  grass  and 
grain  upon  these  immense  fields  ;  and  the  most  im- 
portant part  of  these  machines  is  the  cutting  ap- 
paratus, the  mower  knives,  serrated  sickles  and 
sections,  the  manufacture  cf  which  is  carried  on  AKRON  :  THE  WHITMAN  4  BARNES  COMPANY. 


CINCINNATI  !    THE   STROBRIDGE 
LITHOGRAPHING    COMPANY. 


CLEVELAND  :    NATIONAL   CARBON    COMPANY. 


THE  STATE  OF  OHIO.  691 

as  a  specialty.  The  largest  manufacturer  of  these  goods  in  the  United  States,  or  in  the 
world,  is  the  Whitman  &  Barnes  Manufacturing  Company,  of  Akron,  O.,  and  Syracuse, 
N.  Y.  The  company  was  incorporated  in  1877,  with  a  capital  of  $400,000 ;  but  to  meet  the 
wants  of  their  business  this  capital  has  since  been  increased  to  $2,000,000.  Additional 
factories  have  been  put  in  operation  at  Canton  (O.),  and  St.  Catherine's (Ont.),  and  to  better 
supply  the  wants  of  their  large  trade,  they  now  have  established  branch  houses  at  Boston, 
Philadelphia,  Cincinnati,  Kansas  City,  Chicago,  and  San  Francisco,  where  large  stocks  of 
their  goods  are  carried,  from  whence  they  supply  their  many  customers  throughout  the 
United  States.  Their  foreign  trade  is  supplied  direct  from  the  factories.  The  present  firm 
is  the  result  of  the  combination  of  the  Whitman  &  Miles  Manufacturing  Company,  of 
Fitchburg,  Mass.,  and  George  Barnes  &  Co.,  of  Syracuse,  N.  Y.,  who  entered  the  business 
35  years  ago.  In  addition  to  manufacturing  knives,  sickles,  and  sections,  they  are  the 
largest  manufacturers  of  spring  cotters  in  the  world,  and  make  many  specialties  and  repairs. 
The  improvements  and  discoveries  in  electricity  have  been  so  marked  in  the  past  decade 
that  the  public  generally  takes  it  as  a  matter  of  course  that  there  should  be  something  new 
every  day  or  two.  Electric-lighting  has  got  to  such 
a  magnitude  that  it  is  considered  less  a  luxury  than 
a  necessity.  When  the  output  of  electrical  appa- 
ratus was  smaller  the  companies  made  all  the  parts 
themselves.  Now  the  consumption  is  so  enormous 
that  it  is  not  practical  to  follow  this  rule,  and 
among  other  parts  the  carbons  are  made  a  spe- 
cialty. The  National  Carbon  Company,  of  Cleve- 
land, is  the  largest  company  in  the  world  that  manufactures  these  carbons.  The  company 
succeeded  the  Boulton  Carbon  Company,  and  was  incorporated  under  the  Ohio  laws  in 
April,  1886.  Their  offices  and  works  cover  several  acres  of  ground.  The  manufacture  of 
these  carbons  is  peculiar ;  the  ingredient  is  lamp-black,  and  it  is  first  molded  or  forced  by 
great  pressure  into  a  mold  and  .then  baked.  Frequently  the  carbons  are  cored.  The  com- 
pany furnishes  the  carbons  for  the  Statue  of  Liberty,  on  Bedloe's  Island,  in  New- York 
Harbor.  These  are  of  special  size,  being  f  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  as  against  T7¥  to  £  an 
inch  for  ordinary  lighting.  They  also  furnish  the  Cowles  Electric  Smelting  and  Aluminum 
Works  with  special  carbons.  These  convey  the  heat  necessary  to  melt  aluminum,  which 
requires  more  heat  than  anything  extant.  These  carbons  are  50  inches  long.  The  National 
Carbon  Co.  is  now  doing  the  largest  business  in  their  line  in  the  world. 

Together  with  the  advent  of  the  highest  degree  of  perfection  yet  attained  in  illumi- 
nation, that  of  the  electric  light,   a  growing  demand  for  the  more  primitive  style,  that  of 

candles,  is  evident.  It  is  now  quite  the  thing  to 
have  a  handsome  candelabra  at  the  dining-room 
table,  and  the  eoach-lights  are  growing  more  and 
more  popular.  There  always  was,  and  probably 
always  will  be,  a  steady  demand  for  church  use. 
The  candles  now  used,  however,  resemble  very 
slightly  the  candles  of  50  years  ago.  Those  were 
"dips,"  while  the  candles  of  the  present  day  are 
manufactured  by  machinery.  The  Emery  Candle 
Company,  of  Cincinnati,  are  the  largest  manu- 
facturers of  machine-made  candles  in  this  coun- 

EMERY  CANDLE  COMPANY.  f-ry_     They  have  works  at  Ivorydale  which  cover 

ten  acres  of  ground.  The  company  was  incorporated  in  1887,  with  a  capital  of  $500,000. 
Previous  to  this,  however,  the  firm  was  in  existence  back  for  some  50  years.  Their  spe- 
cialties are  triple-pressed  candles,  which  are  hard  and  white.  The  Emery  family,  who 
established  and  operate  these  works,  are  among  the  wealthiest  families  of  the  city. 


692  KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE   UNITED  STATES. 

At  Columbus  is  the  interesting  plant  of  the  Jeffrey  Manufacturing  Company,  famous  for 
the  manufacture  of  special  mining  machinery,  made  under  patents  covering  inventions  of 
Mr.  Jeffrey  and  his  associates.  The  Jeffrey  coal-mining  machines  and  drills  are  run  by 

compressed  air  and  electricity ;  and  the 
company  furnish  also  complete  mine  equi- 
page, including  electric  motor  cars  for 
haulage  in.  mines.  They  are  also  exten- 
sive manufacturers  of  the  chain  belting, 
which  has  proved  of  such  great  value  in 
transmission  of  power  for  elevators,  con- 
veyors, and  other  uses.  These  belts  are 
used  in  all  lines  of  industry,  coal  and  ore 
elevators,  river  and  harbor  dredgers,  and 
conveyors  for  saw-dust,  dry  and  spent  tan, 
COLUMBUS  :  JEFFREY  MANUFACTURING  COMPANY.  straw  and  pulp,  ores,  coal,  and  clay. 

Many  large  factories  use  them.  Besides  chain-belting  and  coal-mining  machinery  and  min- 
ing engines,  they  make  several  mechanical  specialties.  Their  plant  covers  several  acres, 
and  is  completely  equipped  with  the  newest  and  best  machinery.  They  employ  1 50  men. 
The  product  of  this  company  is  shipped  to  every  State  and  almost  every  country. 

Iron  and  metal  cutting  and  punching,  such  as  is  common  in  boiler-work,  ship-building,  car- 
shops,  architectural  iron-work,wagon, 
carriage  and  implement  works,  has 
grown  to  such  dimensions  that  there 
is  a  universal  demand  for  power 
punches  and  shears.  The  power  of 
some  of  these  machines  is  enormous, 
and  to  see  one  of  them  punch  a  four- 
inch  hole  through  a  bar  of  iron  two 
inches  in  thickness,  or  cut  off  a  four- 
inch  square  bar  of  iron  or  steel,  with 
the  ease  that  one  could  drive  an  awl 
through  a  pine  shingle,  or  sever  a 
cotton  wrapping  twine,  gives  an  idea  HAMILTON  :  LONG  &  ALSTATTER  COMPANY. 

of  strength  and  usefulness.  The  Long  &  Allstatter  Company,  of  Hamilton,  are  the  most 
extensive  builders  of  punching  and  shearing  machinery  in  this  country,  and  to  meet  the 
largely  diversified  wants  of  the  users  of  such  machines  for  light  as  well  as  heavy  work,  make 
a  complete  assortment  of  punches  and  shears  in  over  350  different  styles  and  sizes.  The 
company  was  organized  in  1869,  and  incorporated  in  1878,  with  a  capitalization  of  $200,- 
ooo.  Their  works  are  very  large,  covering  several  acres  of  ground,  and  consist  of  one  main 
building,  four  stories  high,  230  feet  front,  with  four  ells,  each  136  feet  long,  running  back 
from  it,  the  machine-shops  occupying  two  of  them.  Near  the  main  shop  is  the  foundry 
,«B30&HHEBMttb^^^MIMa^^.  anc^  pattern  shop,  the  former  equipped  with 

heavy  cranes  for  handling  castings.  Besides 
power  punching  and  shearing  machines,  they 
manufacture  straightening  and  bending  ma- 
chines, and  machines  for  welding  tires.  They 
have  also  a  valuable  line  of  cultivators,  sulky 
hay-rakes,  and  corn  and  fodder  cutters,  all  of 
which  are  extensively  used. 

At  Sandusky  is  one  of  the  factories  of  the 
American  Wheel  Company,  of  Chicago,  which 
SANDUSKY  ;  AMERICAN  WHEEL  co.  now  controls  the  wheel  industry. 


Settled  at Guthrie. 

Settled  in 1889 

Founded  by  ....  Americans. 
Opened  for  settlement,  .  .  1889 
Organized  as  a  Territory,  .  1890 
Population  in  1890  (U.  S. 

Census),  .     .         ....      61,834 

Indians, 5,689 

Vote  for  Delegate  (1890), 

Republican,      .... 

Democratic,     .... 

Banks, 

Area  (square  miles),    .     . 
Delegate  to  Congress,     . 

Newspapers, 

Latitude, 34°  to  37°  N. 

Longitude,  .  .  .  96°  to  100°  W. 
Mean  Temperature,  ...  60° 

Post-offices, 166 


4,478 
2,446 

6 

39,030 
I 

30 


Oklahoma  was  originally 
part  of  the  Indian  Territory, 
set  apart  for  the  five  abo- 
riginal tribes  from  Georgia, 
Florida,  Alabama  and  Miss- 
issippi. The  eastern  part 
afforded  more  than  land 
enough  for  them,  and  the 
remoter  and  less  desirable 

west  lay  empty  and  unoccupied.     The  revolt  of  many  of 

the  Five  Nations  during  the  Secession  War,  and  their  con. 

quest  by  Federal  troops,  necessitated  a  re-affirming  of  the 

grants  and  patents  made  by  the  Government  to  the  tribes. 

In  this  new  adjustment  permission  was  given  to  the  United 

States  to  buy  the  unused  lands  in  the  central  and  western 

parts  of  the  Indian  Territory,  for  the  purpose  of  settling 

freedmen  and  wild  Indians  upon  them.     The  Government 

purchased  millions  of  acres  of  their  unoccupied  western 

lands   from    the   Cherokees,   Seminoles  and  Creeks,   and 

placed  upon  this  domain  several  wild  tribes.     The  central 

part  of  the  Indian  Territory,  known  as  Oklahoma,  and 

covering  2,000,000  acres,  came  within  this  purchase,  and 

remained  unoccupied.     The  whites  claimed  it  as  public 

land,  available  for  settlement ;  but  the  Creeks  maintained 

that  they  sold  it  only  for  Indian  and  freedmen's  occupancy. 

In  1889,  therefore,  the  Government  re-purchased  Okla- 
homa from  the  Creeks,  at  a  greatly  advanced  price.  The 

white   inhabitants   of    the   neighboring    States   had   long 

looked  upon  these  lands  with  desire,  and  after  1879  fre- 
quently moved  across  the  border  to  occupy  them,  under 

the  lead  of  Capt.  Payne  and  other  adventurers.     But  as 

often  as  they  entered  the  coveted  domain  they  were  ejected 

by  the  United- States  troops  patrolling  the  frontier.     At 

last,  on  April  22,  1889,  President  Harrison  proclaimed  the 

opening  for  settlement  of  1,400,000  acres  of  Creek  land  and  500,000  acres  of  Semmol 

land.     Great  processions  of  « '  boomers  "  poured  into  the  new  territory,  and  within  half  a  day 

the  city  of  Guthrie  arose,  with  10,000  inhabitants,  and  other  cities  sprang  up  on  the  prairies. 


TEN  CHIEF  PL, 
LATIONS. 


,CES  AND  THEIR  POPU- 

(Census  of  1890.) 


Guthrie  (with  E.  and  W. 

Guthrie), 

Oklahoma  City,      .     .     . 

Kingfisher, 

Norman, 

Stillwater, 

Frisco, 

Edmond, 

El  Reno, 

Reno  City, 

Lexington 


5,333 

4,i5i 

i,i34 

787 

480 

327 

294 

285 

234 

223 


CHEYENNE   CAMP. 


In  the  west  begin  the  Great 


694  KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

The  Name  O-kla-homa  was  suggested  by  the  Choctaw  chiels  in 
council,  in  1882,  and  their  delegate  at  Washington  had  it  applied  to  this 
region.  It  means  "The  Home  of  the  Red  Man,  the  Choctaw  Okla 
signifying  'Red,'  and  Homa  meaning  'Home.'" 

Governors.  —  George  W.  Steele,  1890-1 ;  Abraham  J.  Seay,  1892-4. 
The  Governor  and  Secretary  are  appointed  by  the  President ;  and  the 
legislature  is  composed  of  13  councillors  and  a  house  of 
26  representatives,  elected  for  two  years,  and  meeting  for 
60  days  every  other  year.      The  Supreme  Court  has  three 
justices  ;  and  there  are  several  minor  courts.      The  laws  are 
based  on  those  of  Nebraska. 

Descriptive. —  Oklahoma  is  about  the  size  of  Ohio,  and 
borders  on  Texas  and  Colorado,  Kansas  and  the  Indian  Ter- 
ritory. The  face  of  the  country  is  diversified  with  long 
green  valleys,  forests  of  oak,  and  many  flashing  streams. 
Plains,  a  long,  rolling,  almost  treeless  and  arid  region,  which  slopes  imperceptibly  upward 
to  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  is  covered  with  bunch-grass  and  sage-brush,  yucca  and  cactus, 
and  saline  deposits.  The  plateaus  of  the  north  rise  nearly  4,000  feet  above  the  sea.  The 
country  has  a  milder  climate  than  that  of  Kansas,  except  for  its  cold  northerly  winds ;  and 
is  thought  to  be  well  adapted  for  raising  corn  and  other  cereals,  millet  and  Wild  hay,  cotton 
and  tobacco,  and  fruits. 

The  Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa-Fe  Railway  has  a  line  running  south  from  Arkansas 
City  (Kansas)  to  Fort  Worth  and  Galveston,  crossing  Oklahoma  and  the  Chickasaw 
Nation.  Another  line  traverses  the  Cherokee  Outlet  from  \|  Kansas  into  the  Pan- 
Handle  of  Texas. 

The  original  Oklahoma  district,  west  of 
the  Creek  Nation,  contains  the  chief  towns 
in  the  Territory,  Guthrie,  Kingfisher,  Okla- 
homa City,  Norman,  and  others,  and  large 
areas  of  farming  land. 

The  greater  part  of  Oklahoma  is  still 
occupied  by  wild  tribes  of  Indians,  who  rove 
up  and  down  over  lands  set  apart  for  them  in  1867-8,  but  not  patented  to  them.  They  receive 
regular  supplies  of  money,  clothing  and  provisions  from  the  Government,  and  are  ruled 
by  agents  appointed  by  the  President,  strengthened  by  considerable  garrisons  of  regular 
troops  near  the  agencies.  The  wild  tribes  are  hardly  touched  by  civilization  (except  in  its 
vices),  and  still  assemble  for  their  cruel  sun-dances  and  pagan  festivals,  practice  polygamy 
and  girl-selling,  and  look  with  haughty  scorn  upon  their  comfortable,  peaceable  and  well- 
to-do  brethren  of  the  Five  Nations.  Considerable  areas  have  been  recently  purchased 

from  the  tribes  by  the  Government,  and  as  fast  as  pos- 
sible the  individual  Indians  are  being  allotted  suitable 
tracts  of  land  in  severally.  In  eastern  Oklahoma  are 
the  homes  of  the  400  Mexican  Kickapoos,  opposing 
allotment  and  schools,  and  living  in  tepees.  Here  also 
dwell  the  lowas  in  rude  tepees  ;  650  Absentee  Shawnees, 
thrifty  farmers,  in  log  huts ;  500  Citizen  Pottawatomies, 
mainly  French  half-breed  farmers;  and  500  Sacs  and  Foxes 
of  Illinois  and  Wisconsin,  with  whom  are  many  Omahas 
of  Nebraska  and  Chippewas  of  Minnesota.  These  tribes 
have  been  allotted  lands  in  severally  ;  and  on  September 
22,  1891,  President  Harrison  proclaimed  the  vast  unoccu- 
PONCA  WIGWAMS.  pied  parts  of  their  reservations  opened  to  settlement. 


COMANCHE   CAMP. 


E 


CADDO   CAMP. 


THE    TERRITORY  OF   OKLAHOMA.  695 

The  Cheyennes,  2,229  m  number,  and 
Arapahoes  (1,272),  have  their  agency  near 
Fort  Reno,  where  six  companies  of  soldiers' 
are  in  garrison.  In  their  domain  are  the 
Antelope  Buttes,  a  group  of  sandstone  hills, 
for  generations  well-known  landmarks  for 
travellers  on  the  Plains.  The  Cheyennes 
are  Algonquins,  driven  westward  from  the 
Red  River  of  the  North  by  the  Sioux. 
About  5°  years  ago  part  of  the  tribe  mi- 
grated, and  became  allied  with  the  Arapahoes,  the  remainder  (Northern  Cheyennes)  allying 
themselves  with  the  Sioux.  After  the  Colorado  militia  massacred  100  of  them  (largely 
women  and  children),  near  Fort  Lyon,  in  1864,  the  tribe  flew  to  arms,  and  the  war  that 
ensued  cost  the  Government  $30,000,000  and  hundreds  of  lives.  In  1867-8  Hancock 'and 
Custer  destroyed  their  villages.  The  Cheyennes  and  Arapahoes  are  turbulent  and  intract- 
able, and  for  several  years  have  been  retrograding,  abandoning  their  farms  and  other  civil- 
izing efforts.  In  1892  their  reservation  was  opened  to  settlement  by  presidential  proclama- 
tion, the  Indians  _j  having  been  placed  on  allotted  lands.  50.000  people  moved 

into  it,  to  establish  their  homes  on  the  old 
domains  of  the  ghost-dancing  tribes. 

The  pleasant  country  in  the  south,  between 
the  g8th  meridian  and  the  North  Fork  of  the 
Red  River,  covers  an  area  of  4,600  square 
miles,  and  is  dominated  by  the  Wichita  Moun- 
tains, a  singularly  picturesque  and  beautiful 
range,  with  granite  cliffs  and  pyramids.  Their 
chief  peaks,  two  leagues  apart,  are  Mount 
Scott,  1,200  feet  above  the  plain,  and  Mount 
Sheridan,  with  its  craggy  granite  peaks ;  and 
Mount  Webster  and  the  old-time  Rainy  Moun- 
tain are  famous  landmarks  in  the  same  range. 
About  1,100  Kiowas,  1, 600  Comanches  and 
ARAPAHOES.  ^Q  Apaches  occupy  this  great  domain  of  smil- 

ing valleys  and  bright  streams.  Their  capital,  Anadarko,  has  500  inhabitants.  Half  the 
men  on  the  reservation  are  farmers,  and  there  are  several  denominational  schools  at  various 
points.  Fort  Sill  is  a  seven-company  post  near  the  Wichita  Mountains.  Northward,  be- 
tween the  Canadian  and  Washita  Rivers,  extends  the  reservation  allotted  to  300  Wichita 
Indians,  who  are  dependent  on  the  Kiowa  and  Comanche  agency.  The  Wichitas  are  more 
advanced  and  civilized  than  the  other  wild  tribes,  and  have  farms  and  stock  ranges. 

The  Comanches  are  of  the  Shoshone  family,  and  once  numbered  12,000,  commanding 
the  country  from  Mexico  to  Montana.  They  are  the  best  horsemen  in  the  world,  and, 
withal,  fierce  warriors,  whose  prowess  Osage  and  Paw- 
nee, Mexican  and  American  have  often  felt.  Many  of 
these  fierce  nomads  are  still  wandering  free  over  the 
Plains.  Elsewhere  in  this  reservation  live  fragments 
of  various  ancient  tribes,  90  Delawares  of  Pennsyl- 
vania, 540  Caddoes  of  Texas,  145  Towaconies,  29 
Wacoes  of  Texas,  and  62  Keechies. 

Greer  County  covers  2,600  square  miles  of  good 
land  in  southwestern  Oklahoma,  occupied  by  great 
cattle-ranches  and  by  half  a  score  of  villages  and 
5,000  farmers.  Mangum  and  Navajoe  are  the  chief 


A    BOOMER'S    HOME   IN    OKLAHOMA. 


696 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


OKLAHOMA   CITY. 


towns.  Texas  erected  a  county  govern- 
ment here,  and  rules  the  domain  as  a 
part  of  her  territory ;  but  the  United 
States  refuses  to  acknowledge  this  claim. 
The  Cherokee  Outlet  covers  8,50x5 
square  miles,  in  the  north,  fit  mainly  for 
cattle-ranges,  being  afflicted  with  a  scarc- 
ity of  water,  and  with  deposits  of  salt, 
shifting  sand  and  gypsum  hills.  It  was 
conveyed  to  the  Cherokees  by  ancient 
treaties,  and  by  the  patent  of  1838,  and 
confirmed  by  the  treaty  of  1866,  being  intended  for  an  avenue  by  which  they  could  reach 
the  hunting-grounds  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  Great  Plains,  on  their  own  territory.  In 
1891  the  United  States  purchased  the  Outlet  for  $8,595,736,  making  the  little  Cherokee 
nation  the  richest  on  earth.  For  many  years  the  tribe  leased  this  domain  to  the  Cherokee- 
Strip  Live-Stock  Association,  for  $100,000  annually.  Camp  Supply  is  a  six-company  post 
in  the  western  part.  The  eastern  part  of  the  Cherokee  Outlet,  a  rocky  and  hilly  region, 
was  bought  by  the  United  States,  for  the  homes  of  1,500  uncivilized  Osages,  occupying 
2,300  square  miles,  with  their  capital  at  Pawhuska  ;  the  Kansas  tribe,  200  persons;  the 

Pawnees,  numbering  800;  the  Otoes,  320; 
the  Missourias,  and  the  Tonkawas.  The 
Cheyennes  and  Arapahoes  also  have  a  claim 
to  a  part  of  the  Outlet,  as  granted  to  them 
by  the  Government. 


The  Chilocco  Indian  Industrial  School 
was  founded  by  the  Government  in  1883, 
near  Arkansas  City,  and  teaches  farming 

and  mechanical  trades  to  200  Indian  youths.  The  Cherokee  Outlet  extends  westward  only 
to  the  meridian  of  1 00°,  because,  up  to  the  Mexican  War,  that  was  the  western  boundary  of 
the  United  States,  on  this  parallel. 

No  Man's  Land  (called  also  the  Public  Land  Strip,  or  the  Neutral  Strip)  is  a  domain  of 
3,700,000  acres,  lying  west  of  100°.  It  was  ceded  by  Texas  to  the  United  States,  because 
it  lay  north  of  Mason  and  Dixon's  Line  (36°  30'),  and  hence  could  not  be  taken  into  the 
Union  as  a  part  of  a  slave  State.  It  long  remained  outside  of  the  jurisdiction  of  the  courts, 
and  was  infested  by  desperadoes,  many  of  whom  were  shot  by  the  citizens.  In  1886  the 
12,000  inhabitants  organized  the  Territory  of  Cimmaron,  but  it  was  not  recognized  by  Con- 
gress. In  1889  the  jurisdictions  of  the  United-States  courts  at  Muscogee  (I.  T.)  and  Paris 
(Texas)  were  extended  over  this  domain,  which  became  a  part  of  Oklahoma.  The  metro- 
polis of  this  strange  land  is  Beaver  City,  among  the 
white  sand-hills  of  the  Cimmaron  Valley ;  and  here  are 
found  two  churches,  a  Grand- Army  post,  an  opera- 
house,  and  a  brisk  newspaper.  There  are  more 
than  a  score  of  towns  and  villages  in  other  parts 
of  No  Man's  Land,  which  is  167^  miles  long,  and 
34^  miles  wide.  Much  of  the  region  is  covered 
with  white  buffalo-grass,  and  affords  good  oppor- 
tunities for  grazing.  CHILOCCO  INDIAN  INDUSTRIAL  SCHOOL. 


A  century  ago  five  power- 
ful nations  laid  claim  to  the 
domain  between  California 
and  Alaska.  Spain  main- 
tained that  it  was  hers  by 
virtue  of  the  discoveries  by 
Ferello  in  1 543  and  Aguilar 
in  1603,  and  by  more  care- 
ful explorations  of  Perez, 
Heceta,  Cuadra,  and  others  in  1774-5.  Russia  claimed  the 
country  as  far  down  as  Tiilamook  Bay,  as  the  reward  of 
her  seamen's  daring  voyages ;  and  France  cherished  a  hazy 
title  on  account  of  her  explorations  westward  from  Canada 
into  Montana.  Great  Britain  also  claimed  Oregon  by  vir- 
tue of  the  discoveries  of  Capt.  Cook,  in  1778,  and  Vancou- 
ver's surveys  in  1792;  and  the  Hudson-Bay  Company 
moved  into  Oregon  with  its  trading-posts  and  filled  the 
country  with  adventurous  fur-traders.  In  1789  Spain  erect- 
ed forts  on  the  coast,  and  seized  British  trading- vessels  as 
trespassers  ;  but  in  the  following  year  she  was  forced  to 
concede,  by  the  Convention  of  Nootka,  that  traders  and 
settlers  under  the  English  flag  should  have  equal  rights 
with  Spaniards  in  the  Northwestern  country. 

When  the  United  States  purchased  Louisiana,  it  was 
held  by  some  statesmen  that  this  domain  included  also  the 
Northwest  Coast ;  but  President  Jefferson,  through  defer- 
ence to  Spain  (which  claimed  it  by  discovery),  forbore  to 
push  our  frontier  beyond  the  Rocky  Mountains.  Gen.  F. 
A.  Walker  {Census  of  1880},  and  the  author  of  The  Public 
Domain,  attribute  our  title  to  Oregon  to  the  Louisiana  pur- 
chase. By  the  Florida  Treaty  of  1819,  His  Catholic  Maj- 
esty ceded  to  the  Republic  "his  rights,  claims  and  preten- 

Russian  claims 


.  .  Astoria. 

.  .          1811 

New  Yorkers 

.  .          1859 

•  •       52,465 

•  •       90,923 

•  -     174,768 
.  .     163,075 

•  •   11,693 

•  •  144,265 
.  •   30,503 
.  .  103,381 


313,; 


Settled  at  .... 
Settled  in  .... 
•Founded  by  ... 
Admitted  as  a  State 
Population  in  1860, 

In  1870, 

In  1880, 

White 

Colored,    .... 
American-born,     . 
Foreign-born,    .     . 
Males,       .... 
Females,       .    .    . 
In  1893  (U.  S.  Census), 
Population  to  the  square  mile,        1.8 
Voting  Population,      .     .    .       59,629 

Vote  for  Harrison  (1888),        33,291 

Vote  for  Cleveland  (1888),       26,522 

Net  State  Debt None. 

Assessed  Valuation  of 

Property  (1890),  .  .  $166,000,000 
Area  (square  miles),  .  .  .  96,030 
U.  S.  Representatives  (1893),  2 

Militia  (Disciplined),  .     .     .         1,701 

Counties .  31 

Post-offices 710 

Railroads  (miles),    ....        1,428 
Vessels 185 

Tonnage 53,317 

Manufactures   (yearly),      $10,879,982 

Operatives 3,424 

Yearly  Wages,  .  .  .  $1,636,566 
Farm  Land  (in  acres),  .  .4,428,712 

Farm-Land  Values,         $56,908, 575 

Fann  Products  (yearly),  $.3,234,548 
Public  Schools,  Average 

Daily  Attendance,  .     .    .       40,012 

Newspapers, 146 

Latitude 42°  to  46°i5'  N. 

Longitude.  Ii6p45'  to  I24°so'  W. 

Temperature,      .    .    .    — 39°toiio° 
Mean  Temperature  (Portland),     53° 


TEN  CHIEF  CITIES  AND  THEIR  POPU- 


LATIONS.    (Census  of  1890.) 


Portland,      .  . 
East  Portland, 

Salem,      .    .  . 

Astoria,    .    .  . 

Albina,      .     .  . 

Albany,    .     .  . 

Oregon  City,  . 

Dalles,     .     .  . 

Baker  City, .  . 

Lagrande,     .  . 


46,385 
io,532 
10,422 
6,184 
5,129 
3,079 
3,062 
3.029 
2,604 
2,583 


sions  "  to  the  territory  north  of  42°.  The 
south  of  54°4o'  were  ceded  to  Great  Britain  and  the  Amer- 
ican Republic  in  1821-5.  Mr.  Elaine  bases  the  American  title  on  the  discovery  of  the 
Columbia  River,  in  1792,  by  Capt.  Robert  Gray,  in  the  Boston  ship  Columbia,  and  its  ex- 
ploration from  its  sources  to  the  sea,  by  Lewis  and  Clarke  in  1805;  and  on  the  original 


HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 

settlement  of  Astoria,  in  1811.  To  these  he  adds  the  valid 
Spanish  title,  which  passed  to  the  United  States  by  the 
Treaty  of  1819.  The  theory  of  contiguity  was  also  held 
by  the  Americans  as  strengthening  their  claim.  The  vast 
Oregon  Country,  whose  ownership  was  thus  left  at  issue 
between  Great  Britain  and  the  United  States,  included 
Oregon,  Washington  and  Idaho,  and  parts  of  Montana  and 
Wyoming.  But  neither  of  the  claimants  knew  or  cared 
much  for  this  remote  and  empty  empire,  and  according  to 
COLUMBIA  RIVER  :  PILLARS  OF  HERCULES,  the  Convention  of  i8i8  (indefinitely  extended  in  1827), 
the  two  powers  agreed  upon  a  joint  occupancy  and  use  of  the  disputed  country  by  their 
citizens.  Neither  nation  organized  any  form  of  civil  government ;  and  the  officers  of  the 
Hudson-Bay  Company  ruled  the  country,  generally  with  wisdom  and  forbearance.  The  first 
trading-post  on  the  Columbia  waters  was  founded  by  the  Missouri  Fur  Company,  at  Fort 
Henry,  on  Snake  River  (Idaho),  in  1809.  In  1810  Nathaniel  Winship,  representing  a 
Boston  company,  entered  the  Columbia,  and  built  a  trading-post  at  Oak  Point,  40  miles  up. 
In  1832  Capt.  N.  J.  Wyeth,  of  Massachusetts,  established  a  fishery  on  Sauvies  Island,  where 
the  Willamette  River  enters  the  Columbia ;  and  two  years  later  the  Methodist  missionaries 
Jason  and  Daniel  Lee  founded  a  mission  at  Salem.  In  1836  Dr.  Marcus  Whitman  and  the 
Rev.  H.  A.  Spalding  and  their  young  wives  (the  first  white  women  who  crossed  the  Rocky 
Mountains)  traversed  the  Plains  with  the  annual  convoy  of  the  American  Fur  Company, 
and  entered  the  Columbia  Valley,  where  they  founded  a  mission  of  the  American  Board. 
Whitman  perceived  that  Oregon  stood  at  the  point  of  being  lost  to  the  United  States, 
and  (in  1842)  to  prevent  this  disaster  rode  on  horseback,  in  winter,  to  Fort  Hall,  Great  Salt 
Lake,  Santa  Fe,  Bent's  Fort  (Pueblo)  and  St.  Louis,  and  thence  by  stage  to  Washington, 
which  he  reached  in  five  months.  He  urged  upon  Webster  and  Tyler  the  fact  that  Oregon 
was  worth  saving  for  the  Union,  and  then  returned.  Immigrants  from  the  States  had 
reached  Oregon  in  1841  and  1842,  and  were  followed  in  1843  ^7  a  caravan  of  200  wagons 
and  875  people  from  Missouri.  Whitman  and  his  companion,  A.  L.  Lovejoy,  overtook  this 
great  convoy  and  guided  it  to  the  Columbia  shores.  When  they  arrived,  they  found  there 
a  strong  provisional  government,  formed  by  the  500  trappers,  missionaries  and  immigrants 
of  1841-2,  without  Federal  authority,  but  establishing  executive,  legislative  and  judicial 
powers  for  the  preservation  of  law  and  order.  In  1846  the  joint  occupation  by  Great  Britain 
and  the  United  States  was  terminated  by  notice  of  the  latter  power,  and  a  treaty  was 
negotiated  conceding  the  country  from  42°  to  49°  to  the  American  Government. 

The  Oregon  pioneers  had  no  organized  civilization  behind  them,  but  were  hemmed  in 
between  the  sea  and  the  mountains,  and  menaced  by  hostile  savages.  The  Hudson-Bay 
Company's  Canadian  trappers  and  their  Indian  wives  and  half-breed  children  formed  a  large 
element,  and  it  was  not  until  1860  that  they  abandoned  Fort  Vancouver,  on  the  Columbia. 
The  overland  immigration  poured  thousands  of  Americans  into  Oregon,  but  many  of  them 
were  drawn  away  by  the  California  gold-fever.  The  Donation  Land  law,  passed  by  Congress 
in  1850,  did  much  to  attract  settlers.  The  erection  of  Oregon  into  a  territory  (in  1848)  met 
with  a  strong  opposition,  and  even  Daniel  Webster  said  that  the  region  was  "  so  far  off  that 
it  could  never  be  governed  by  the  United  States,"  and  that 
a  delegate  to  Congress  "could  not  reach  Washington  until 
a  year  after  the  expiration  of  his  term. " 

Joseph  Lane,  a  veteran  of  the  Mexican  War,  was  for 
many  years  governor  of,  and  delegate  and  senator  from  Ore- 
gon, and  ran  for  vice-president  in  1860,  Breckenridge  being 
at  the  head  of  the  ticket.  When  the  Union  seemed  to  some 
to  be  on  the  point  of  dissolution,  in  1 86 1,  a  great  wave  of  patri- 
otic sentiment  swept  over  the  State.  The  United- States  garri-  MOUNT  HOOD. 


OREGON  NATIONAL  PARK  I  CRATER  LAKE. 


THE  STATE   OF  OREGON. 

sons  were  sent  East,  and  their  places  filled  by  the 
First  Oregon  Cavalry  and  other  volunteers,  who 
made  many  perilous  campaigns  against  the  Indians. 
The  Name  of  Oregon  is  of  uncertain  meaning 
and  origin.  Bancroft  {Hist.  Oregon,  Vol.  I,  pp. 
17-25)  reviews  the  theories  of  the  name,  and  con- 
cludes that  it  was  invented  from  Indian  words  (or 
possibly  heard)  by  Jonathan  Carver,  while  in  Min- 
nesota in  1766,  as  belonging  to  the  distant  and  un- 
known River  of  the  West.  The  word  Oregon  was 
printed  for  the  first  .time  in  Carver's  Travels,  in  1778;  made  famous  by  Bryant,  in  his 
poem  of  ThanatopsiSyVO.  1819;  and  fastened  upon  the  Northwestern  Territory  by  Hall  J. 
Kelly,  a  Boston  school-master  and  western  immigrant,  in  1834.  Prof.  J.  D.  Whitney 
( Words  and  Places}  maintains  that  the  name  was  given  by  the  Spaniards,  Ore/on  being 
an  old  Spanish  word,  meaning  "big  ear."  The  tribe  of  Pend'  Oreilles  {Pendantes 
Oreilles},  dwelling  on  the  upper  Columbia,  at  that  time  cherished  the  custom  of  enlarging 
their  ears  with  ornaments,  and  causing  them  to  hang  down.  J.  H.  Trumbull  thinks  that 
Oregon  comes  from  the  Algonquin  word  IVauregan,  meaning  "good"  or  "fair,"  and  ap- 
plied to  the  Columbia  River.  Another  theory  derives  it  from  the  Spanish  form  of  origa- 
num vulgare,  the  Latin  name  of  wild  marjoram,  which  grows  in  abundance, 
"Where  rolls  the  Oregon,  and  hears  no  sound 
Save  its  own  dashings." 

Oregon  is  called  THE  WEBFOOT  STATE,  because  of 
the  humid  climate  of  the  coast  counties.  It  is  also 
known  as  THE  SUNSET  STATE,  because  it  reaches  a  more 
westerly  point  than  any  other  American  common- 
wealth, except  Washington  (a  newer  State.) 

The  Arms  of  Oregon  bear  a  landscape,  with  an 
emigrant  wagon,  and  a  deer,  beyond  which  opens  the 
sea,  bearing  a  steamship  and  a  brig.  Below  these  devices 
is  a  scroll,  with  THE  UNION  written  on  it ;  and  still  lower 
on  the  shield  appear  sheaves  of  wheat,  with  a  plough,  rake  and  pick.  The  crest  is  the 
American  eagle.  The  motto  is  ALIS  VOLAT  PROPRJIS  ("She  flies  with  her  own  wings "). 
The  Governors  of  Oregon  have  been  :  Territorial:  Geo.  Abernethy,  1845-9;  Joseph 
Lane,  1849  and  1853;  J.  P.  Gaines,  1849-53;  Geo.  L.  Curry,  1853  and  1854-9;  John  W. 
Davis,  1853-4:  State:  John  Whiteaker,  1859-62;  Addison  C.  Gibbs,  1862-6;  Geo.  L. 
Woods,  1866-70;  Lafayette  Grover,  1870-7;  S.  F.  Chadwick,  1877-8;  W.  W.  Thayer, 
1878-82;  Zenas  Ferry  Moody,  1882-6;  Sylvester  Pennoyer,  1886-95. 

Descriptive. —  Oregon  is  as  large  as  New  England  and  Indiana  united,  and  twice  as 
large  as  England  ;  and  if  settled  as  densely  as  England  it  would  have  40,000,000  inhabitants. 
The  natural  divisions  are  Eastern  Oregon,  including  all  east  of  the  Cascade  Mountains  (ex- 
cept Lake  and  Klamath  Counties) ;  Southern  Oregon,  including  the  above  counties  and  all 
between  the  Rogue- River  and  Siskiyou  Mountains,  out  to  the  Pacific ;  and  Western  Oregon, 
between  the  Cascades  and  the  Pacific,  the  Columbia 
River  and  the  Rogue-River  Mountains.  The  dis- 
tance from  the  Pacific  Ocean  to  Idaho  is  360  miles, 
and  from  the  Columbia  River  to  California  it  is  275 
miles.  The  sea-coast,  330  miles  long,  is  lined  by 
broken  ridges,  running  northward  from  the  Coast 
Range  of  California,  and  reaching  from  1,000  to 
4,000  feet  in  height.  There  is  a  broad  strip  of  rag- 
ged country  between  the  highlands  and  the  sea,  with  MOUNT  HOOD  ;  CLOUD-CAP  INN. 


PYRAMID    MOUNTAIN    AND   COLUMBIA   RIVER. 


700 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 

several  fertile  valleys,  reached  by  wagon-roads 
and  railways  from  the  Willamette  country. 

The  magnificent  Cascade  Range  traverses 
the  entire  length  of  the  State,  north  and  south, 
forming  a  huge  maze  of  heavily  timbered 
mountains,  from  50  to  60  miles  wide,  no  miles 
from  the  sea,  and  averaging  8,000  feet  high. 

MOUTH  OF  THE  COLUMBIA  RIVER.  It  is  a  great  volcanic  mass,  and  the  connected 

basaltic  plains  form  the  floors  of  the  Columbia,  Willamette,  Snake,  Malheur  and  Owyhee 
valleys.  This  northerly  extension  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  derives  its  name  from  the  turmoil 
of  the  Columbia  traversing  its  rocky  defiles.  Mount  Hood  was  discovered  by  Lieut.  Brough- 
ton,  R.  N.,  in  1792,  and  named  for  Lord  Hood.  From  the  summit,  11,225  ^eet  high>  an(i 
not  far  from  the  Columbia  River,  there  is  a  vast  view  of  1 50  miles  in  all  directions.  This 
noble  and  conspicuous  volcanic  crest,  crowned  with  glistening  snow,  has  often  been  ascended 
by  the  climbers  of  the  Oregon  Alpine  Club.  Prof.  Whitney  ranks  the  great  isolated  vol- 
canic cones  of  the  Pacific  Coast  as  fairly  on  an  equality,  in  picturesque  effect,  with  the  Alps 
or  the  Andes.  Among  the  other  remarkable  peaks  are  Mt.  Jefferson,  10,200  feet  high  ;  the 
craggy  Three  Sisters,  fragments  of  a  huge  crater-rim ;  Diamond  Peak,  overlooking  a  tre- 
mendous line  of  dead  volcanoes  and  lava  flows ;  Mt.  Scott,  with  gentle  slopes  of  ashes  on 
the  east  and  immense  igneous  cliffs  on  the  west ;  and  Mt.  Pitt  (9,818  feet),  commanding  the 
Klamath  Lakes  and  the  Rogue-River  Valley.  The  third  of  Oregon  lying  west  of  the  Cas- 
cades is  its  most  valuable  part,  amply  dowered  with  forests,  clear  streams,  and  park-like 
expanses  of  prairie.  Two  thirds  of  this  area  lies  in  the  Willamette  Valley,  150  miles  long, 
north  and  south,  and  60  miles  wide,  and  nearly  all  fruitful  arable  land,  rich  in  wheat,  with 
splendid  farms  and  beautiful  villages,  heavy  lowland  forests  alternating  with  loamy  prairies, 
broad  terraces  and  rolling  foot-hills  for  woodlands  or  pastures,  and  bordering  fir  and  pine 
forests  seven  leagues  wide,  darkening  the  mountains  on  either  side.  In  this  rural  paradise  the 
crops  have  never  failed,  and  half  of  the  population  and  wealth  of  the  State  is  found  here. 

The  Calipooia  Mountains  run  from  the  Cascade  Range  to  the  Pacific,  closing  the  Wil- 
lamette Valley  on  the  south.  Beyond  opens  the  Umpqua  Valley,  much  smaller  than  the 
Willamette,  with  heavily  rolling  loamy  lands,  adapted  for  farming,  and  diversified  by  small 
forests,  with  enormous  woods  on  the  mountains.  This,  in  turn,  is  walled  in  on  the  south  by 
the  Rogue- River  Mountains,  beyond  which  open  the  rolling  table-lands  of  the  Rogue- River 
Valley,  covering  1,500  square  miles,  broken  by  many  lofty  spurs,  and  closed  on  the  south 
by  the  high  and  rugged  Siskiyou  Mountains  of  California. 

Eastern  Oregon  includes  nearly  two  thirds  of  the  State,  averaging  2, 500  feet  high,  and  with 
a  wide  diversity  of  scenery  and  products,  from  the  pasture-clad  mountains  and  pleasant  valleys 
of  the  north  to  the  great  grazing  areas  around  Harney  Lake,  and  the  arid 
southern  country,  which  requires  artificial  irrigation  for  maturing  crops. 
When  the  gold-placers  were  exhausted,  a  large  stock-raising  industry  arose 
here,  and  the  region,  carpeted  with  bunch-grass,  became  known  as 
"the  Stockman's  Paradise."  Latterly  it  has  developed  as  a  rich 
wheat  region.  The  wooded  Blue  Mountains  and  Powder-River 
Mountains,  from  8,000  to  9,000  feet  high,  separate  the  Columbia 
Valley  from  the  Great  Basin.  The  Umatilla  Valley  is  a  rich  wheat 
country,  with  important  sheep-raising  interests,  and  several  pros- 
perous towns.  The  Grande- Ronde  and  other  valleys  in  this  region 
have  valuable  areas  of  farming  lands,  part  of  which  are  still  for  sale 
by  the  Government,  the  State  and  the  railways.  One  of  the  largest 
tracts  of  agricultural  land  pertains  to  the  Willamette- Valley  & 
Cascade-Mountain  Military  Wagon-Road  Company,  to  whom  it  was 
granted  by  Congress  in  1866.  It  extends  for  448  miles  across  Oregon,  BUTTES  OF  THE  COLUMBIA. 


THE  STATE   OF   OREGON. 


from  the  Willamette  Valley,  near  Albany,  to  the  valley 
of  Snake  River,  at  Ontario,  covering  each  alternate  sec- 
tion in  a  belt  six  miles  wide,  and  including  860,000 
acres.  The  land  is  sold  at  from  50  cents  an  acre  up- 
ward, for  cash  or  on  five  years'  time,  with  perfect  titles 
and  warranty  deeds.  This  great  strip  crosses  the  Cas- 
cades near  Mt.  Jefferson,  runs  southeast  between  the 
Blue  and  Stein  Mountains,  and  then  descends  the  great 
Harney  and  Malheur  Valleys  to  the  Snake  River,  includ- 
ing parts  of  Linn,  Crook,  Harney  and  Malheur  Counties. 
These  lands  comprise  timber,  agricultural  and  grazing 

r  •  i          r«  i  THE     CROOKED-RIVER    VALLEY,    ON   THE  WILLA- 

lands,  among  the  finest  in  the  State,  each  and  every          METTE-VALLEY  &  CASCADE-MOUNTAIN 

40-acre  tract  having  been  carefully  selected.    The  Ore-  MILITARY  WAGON-ROAD. 

gon  Pacific  Railroad  follows  nearly  the  line  of  the  grant,  and  is  now  under  construction,  and 

will  greatly  enhance  its  value.     The  selling  agents  of  this  vast  agricultural  domain  are 

Williams  &  Wood,  of  Portland,  Oregon. 

South  of  the  Blue  Mountains  begins  the  Great  Basin,  apparently  as  true  a  desert  as  Sa- 

hara, and  running  down  into  Nevada  and  Utah,  with  an  area  larger  than  that  of  France. 

It  is  not  sand,  but  the  more  level  tracts  are  covered  with  a  fine  volcanic  soil,  capable  of 

wonderful  fertility  under  irrigation.     The  rivers  that  pour  their  rushing  crystal  tides  from 

the  snow-clad  ranges  shrink  away  as  they  advance  on  the  great  plains,  and  are  swallowed  up 

in  marshy  sinks  and  shallow  brackish  lakes.     Vast  areas  of  lava-beds  alternate  with  plains 
__  __  clad  with  sage-brush,  dwarf  pine  and  juni- 

per, overlooked  by  rugged  volcanic  ridges. 
The  grand  range  of  the  Stein  Mountains 
traverses  this  country,  forming  the  most 
conspicuous  feature  of  southeastern  Oregon. 
Several  of  the  broad  lakes  that  diversify 
the  plateau  are  strongly  alkaline,  and  when 
the  heated  season  comes  they  dry  up,  leav- 
ing dreary  mud-plains.  They  receive  the 
waters  of  many  brooks,  but  have  no  outlets, 
and  so  may  be  called  miniature  dead  seas. 

Fish  cannot  exist  in  these  solutions  of  potash  and  soda,  whose  only  inhabitants  are  millions 

of  brine-shrimp. 

Crater  Lake,  in  southwestern  Oregon,  is  one  of  the  deepest  bodies  of  fresh  water  in 

America,  the  soundings  passing  2,000  feet,  while  the  sheer  en  walling  cliffs  reach  a  height  of 

from  800  to  2,000  feet.   It  is  a  body  of  clear,  cold,  deep-blue  water,  six  by  seven  miles  in  area, 

filling  a  huge  crater  caused  by  the  melting  of  the  foundations  of  the  mountain,  and  flowing 

over  submerged  cinder  cones,  6,251  feet  above  the  sea.     Out  from  the  transparent  depths, 

the  jagged  peaks  of  Wizard  Island  rise,  845  feet  high,  and  crowned  with  an  extinct  crater. 

Capt.  C.  E.  Button,  U.  S.  A.,  recently  surveyed  this  mysterious  lake,  his  soldiers  having 

lowered  their  boats  by  ropes  from  cliffs  900  feet 

above  the  water.     The  five  townships  including 

Crater  Lake  have  been  set  apart  as  the  Oregon 

National  Park,  abounding  in  game  and  fish,  and 

in  hot  and  cold  springs.     The  Upper  and  Lower 

Klamath  Lakes  cover  300  square  miles,  and  are 

traversed  by  small  steamboats,  and  bordered  by 

marshes.      Lake  Wallowa,   6,000  feet  high,  on 

the  Blue  Mountains,  is  a  beautiful  basin  of  cold 

and  crystalline  water,  inhabited  by  salmon-trout,     HARNEY  VALLEY  ON  THE  w.-v.  &  C.-M.  M.  w.  ROAD, 


PAULINA  VALLEY   :    ON  THE  WILLAMETTE-VALLEY  &   CASCADE- 
MOUNTAIN  MILITARY  WAGON-ROAD. 


702 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


™" 


and  with  a  steamboat 
making  voyages  over 
its  lofty  mirror. 

The  noble  Columbia 
River  may  be  ascended 
by  steamboats,  with  a 
few  breaks,  to  within 
450  miles  of  the  navi- 
gable Missouri,  and 
350  miles  of  the  Yel- 
lowstone. It  has  a  nav- 
igable length  of  i ,  200  miles,  one  fourth  of  which  lies  on  the  northern  frontier  of  Oregon.  The 
mouth  is  six  miles  wide,  between  the  fortified  headlands  of  Point  Adams  and  Cape  Hancock, 
and  is  traversed  by  an  outer  bar,  with  25  feet  of  water  at  mean  low  tide.  The  United- States 
Engineers  have  straightened  the  channel,  by  means  of  a  jetty  five  miles  long,  from  Point 
Adams  toward  Cape  Hancock,  and  hope  to  give  it  a  depth  of  30  feet  at  low  water.  The 
jetty  improvements  have  made  this  entrance  open  to  the  largest  ships.  The  river  scenery 
varies  from  the  level  lowlands  near  by  to  the  snowy  peaks  of  the  Coast  and  Cascade  Ranges. 
For  30  miles  from  the  sea  the  Columbia  is  from  three  to  seven  miles  wide ;  and  for  100  miles 
farther  it  has  a  breadth  of  over  a  mile.  Numerous  steamboats  ply  along  this  noble  highway 
and  its  connected  waters,  from  Portland  to  the  Cascades  and  to  Astoria.  At  the  Cascades, 
150  miles  from  the  sea,  the  Columbia  descends  40  feet, 
in  a  canon  4,000  feet  deep,  cut  through  the  lava-beds  of 
the  Cascade  Mountains.  The  Lower  Columbia  lies  below 
the  Cascades ;  the  Middle  Columbia  is  the  4O-mile  reach 
between  the  Cascades  and  the  Dalles ;  and  the  Upper  Col- 
umbia lies  above,  with  190  miles  of  navigable  water.  At 
the  Dalles  the  river  begins  its  traversing  of*  the  Cascade 
chain,  rushing  swiftly  through  narrow  cracks  in  sheets  of 
lava.  Several  steamboats  have  safely  descended  through 
the  Dalles  and  the  Cascades,  during  periods  of  high  water. 
The  Government  is  building  a  canal  3,000  feet  long  at 
the  Cascades,  and  contemplates  a  boat-railway  at  the  CORNELL  ROAD. 

Dalles,  to  make  the  entire  length  of  the  Columbia  and  the  Snake  navigable  for  grain-bearing 
steamboats.  Travellers  on  the  river  rarely  go  above  the  Dalles,  the  main  route  being  the 
Union  Pacific  Railroad,  following  the  south  bank  from  Portland.  The  grandeur  of  the 
scenery  of  the  Cascade  Mountains,  where  the  Columbia  River  cuts  through  them,  is  height- 
ened by  many  attractive  bits  of  scenery.  Prominent  among  these  are  the  Multnomah  Falls, 
descending  850  feet  in  a  straight  band  of  white  waters,  and  forming  one  of  the  most  pic- 
turesque and  beautiful  cascades  in  the  world. 

The  Willamette  River,  rising  in  the  western  slopes  of  the  Cascade  Range,  follows  a  north- 
erly course  of  200  miles  to  the  Columbia.  Large  steamships  ascend  to  Portland,  twelve  miles 
up,  and  smaller  vessels  can  go  up  126  miles  farther,  passing  around  the  falls  at  Oregon  City 
by  locks.  The  Umpqua  and  Rogue  Rivers  are  each  about  200  miles  long,  and  break  through 
the  Coast  Range  in  deep  .and  rugged  canons,  amid  profound  forests.  The  Umpqua  is  as- 
cended by  small  steamboats  30  miles  to  Scottsburgh.  The  rough,  swift  and  canon-bound 
Des-Chutes  and  John-Day  Rivers,  in  the  centre,  are  each  250  miles  long  ;  the  Umatilla, 
Powder  and  Grarrde-Ronde  are  swift  mountain-born  streams  in  the  northeast,  with  lovely 
valleys ;  and  the  greater  part  of  the  eastern  frontier  for  150  miles  is  formed  by  the  tremend- 
ous basaltic  canon  of  the  Snake  River,  which  descends  from  the  Yellowstone  National 
Park.  This  powerful  stream  receives  the  Malheur  River,  140  miles  long  ;  and  the  Owyhee, 
from  the  gray  deserts  of  Nevada.  Coos  Bay  maintains  a  line  of  coasting  steamships  to  San 


THE  STATE   OF  OREGON. 


703 


CLIFTON,  ON  THE  COLUMBIA  RIVER 


Francisco,  whither  it  sends  coal  and    JF?- 
lumber.     Yaquina  Bay  has  been  im-    I 
proved    by   the    Government,    with 
long  jetties,  and  has  the  deep-water 
end  of  the  Oregon  Pacific  Railroad, 
and  a  line  of  steamships  to  San  Fran- 
cisco.    Port  Orford  stands  where  the 
Rogue-River    Mountains   meet   the 
Pacific ;  and  Tillamook,  Alsea,  Sius- 
law  and  other  bays  have  a  value  for    | 
oystering  and  fishing,  and  the  export- 
ing of  farm  and  forest  products. 

The  salmon-fisheries  yield  several  million  dollars  a  year,  and  the  Lower  Columbia  alone 
has  produced  in  a  season  over  600,000  cases,  mainly  of  the  quinnat  salmon,  averaging  about 
22  pounds  each,  though  some  have  been  caught  weighing  80  pounds.  They  are  taken  in 
seines  300  to  600  feet  long,  and  nets  1,500  to  1, 800  feet  long,  with  a  depth  of  twelve  feet, 
the  head-fishermen  being  mainly  Norwegians  and  Italians.  There  are  38  canneries  between 

Astoria  and  the  Cascades;  and  1, 600  boats,  cost- 
ing with  their  outfits  over  $2,000,000,  have  been 
engaged  during  a  prosperous  season.  Since  1885 
this  industry  has  fallen  off  somewhat  in  quantity 
of  pack.  The  pack  in  1890  was  350,000  cases, 
besides  enough  fresh  fish  shipped  away  to  have 
made  a  total  of  450,000  cases.  Fresh-fish  ship- 
ment to  eastern  markets  is  a  new  industry.  The 
Government  hatchery  is  now  putting  $,000,000 
young  salmon  in  the  river  annually,  which  will 
soon  increase  the  pack  again. 

A  typical  salmon-cannery  is  that  of  J.  W.  &  V. 
Cook,  on  the  banks  of  the  Columbia,  at  Clifton,  Clatsop  County.  This  establishment  was 
founded  in  1874,  and  has  put  up  400,000  cases  of  salmon,  valued  at  $2,000,000.  It  employs 
175  men  during  the  fishing  season  (from  April  1st  to  August  1st),  and  has  a  large  group  of 
buildings,  including  the  packing-house  and  warehouse,  besides  very  long  net-racks.  The 
famous  Medal  brands  of  salmon  and  salmon  steaks  put  up  here  have  won  the  highest 
awards  at  the  expositions  at  Philadelphia,  Lon- 
don, Paris,  Melbourne  and  Sydney.  They  are 
shipped  direct  to  foreign  countries,  as  well  as 
to  the  San-Francisco  markets  and  the  cities  of 
the  East.  The  growing  demand  for  canned 
fresh  fish  will  for  many  years  be  supplied  from 
scientifically  conducted  establishments  like  this 
of  J.  W.  &  V.  Cook,  on  the  Columbia. 

Halibut,  herring  and  smelt,  and  many  other 
fish  are  found  abundantly  in  the  Oregon  waters.     The 
shipment  of  sturgeon  has  also  become  a  large  indus- 
try.  They  are  caught  in  the  Columbia  and  Willamette, 
and  sometimes  weigh  600  pounds. 

The  State  has  many  great  water-powers,  at  the 
Cascades  and  the  Dalles,  at  Salem,  the  Tualatin  am 
other  points.  The  falls  of  the  Willamette  at  Oregon 
City,  give  force  equal  to  300,000  horse-power,  and 
have  been  improved.  The  descent  is  40  feet.  SALMON  PACKING. 


PORTLAND  :    PACIFIC  COAST  ELEVATOR  CO. 


704 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


Along  the  resounding  Pacific  Ocean,  Oregon  has  several  popular  beach-resorts,  like 
Newport  and  Yaquina,  near  the  grand  headland  of  Cape  Foulweather  ;  and  Clatsop  Beach, 
curving  around  to  Tillamook  Head,  18  miles  from  Astoria,  where  the  hotels  and  cottages 
accommodate  thousands  of  summer  idlers.  Inland,  at  the  hot  springs  of  Linkville,  and  at 
Hot  Lake,  near  Union,  in  the  remote  east,  new  health-resorts  are  springing  up. 

The  Climate  west  of  the  Cascade  Range  is  mild  and  equable,  with  the  extraordinary 
rainfall  of  67  inches  along  the  coast,  and  50  inches  in  the  Willamette  Valley.  When  the 
Californians  have  a  long  rainy  season  they  call  it  "  Oregon  weather  ;"  and  when  a  season 
of  heat  and  dust  invades  the  Sunset  State,  the  people  revile  it  as  "the  sort  of  climate  they 
have  down  in  California. "  The  Cascade  Range  robs  the  ocean-winds  of  their  moisture, 
which  falls  on  the  western  slopes,  and  the  winds  go  eastward  dry  and  arid.  The  Upper 
Columbia  valley  receives  from  18  to  22  inches  of  rain,  never  failing  to  have  enough  for  the 
production  of  fall-sown  wheat.  The  Great  Basin  gets  only  from  nine  to  15  inches  of  rain 
yearly.  The  temperature  of  the  coast  valleys  is  comparatively  equable,  but  that  of  the  east 
shows  great  extremes.  The  ice  on  the  Lower  Columbia  and  the  Willamette  rarely  forms 
thicker  than  one  inch,  and  the  snows  are  light  and  dry,  and  quickly  pass.  This  genial  climate 
is  due  to  the  southwestern  trade  winds.  Careful  observers  credit  Oregon  with  six  climates ; 


the  rainy,  foggy  and  equable  outer 
mers,  rainy  winters,  and  mild  and 
mette  country;  the  mild  and  even 
rainfalls  of  the  Umpqua  Valley  ; 
of  the  Rogue-River  Valley ;  the 
mers  and  heavy  snows  of  the 
bracing  mountain  air  of  north- 
and  hot  summers.  The  mean 
Portland  and  Ashland  are  above 
ther  south,  and  the  range  of  the 
lake-country  has  a  yearly  average 
sumptives  cannot  live  west  of  the 
high  eastern  plateaus.  East  of  the 
220  by  240  square  miles,  abound- 
hence  well  adapted  for  grazing, 
prevents  a  general  use  of  these 
north,  along  the  John-Day,  Uma- 


MULTNOMAH   FALLS. 


coast ;  the  warm  and  smoky  sum- 
damp  mid-seasons  of  the  Willa- 
summers  and  winters,  and  fair 
the  greater  diversity  and  dryness 
wide  extremes  and  arid  sum- 
southern  lake-country ;  and  the 
eastern  Oregon,  with  cold  winters 
yearly  temperatures  of  Astoria, 
that  of  Philadelphia,  400  miles  far- 
thermometer  is  much  less.  The 
colder  than  that  of  Boston.  Con- 
Cascades,  but  find  health  on  the 
Cascade  Mountains  is  a  plateau  of 
ing  in  nutritious  bunch-grass,  and 
The  insignificance  of  the  rainfall 
lands  for  farming,  except  in  the 


tilla  and  Des-Chutes  Rivers. 

Agriculture  is  largely  diversified,  being  generally  favored  by  soil  and  climate.  The 
great  staple  is  wheat,  of  which  15,000,00x3  bushels  have  been  produced  in  a  year,  two  thirds 
of  it  from  the  dark  loam  of  Eastern  Oregon.  It  averages  30  bushels  to  the  acre,  and  is  of 
unusual  weight  and  fullness.  The  product  of  oats  is  above  6,000,000  bushels;  flax,  rye, 
barley  and  buckwheat  form  large  crops ;  and  corn  is  raised  in  the  south.  The  Willamette 
hop-gardens,  harvested  by  Chinese  labor,  yield  2,500,000  pounds  yearly.  Fruits  and  vege- 
tables are  brought  forth  in  great  quantities  west  of  the  Cascades ;  and  there  are  immense 
establishments  for  drying  and  canning  them.  A  million  fruit  trees  have  been  planted  since 
1885.  The  prune-orchards  of  the  Willamette  Valley  are  among  the  best  in  America;  and 
the  apple-orchards  yield  2, 500,  ooo  bushels.  About  600,  ooo  tons  of  hay  are  harvested  yearly. 

The  raising  of  cattle  is  favored  by  illimitable  natural  pastures  of  bunch-grass,  especially 
on  the  nearly  rainless  plains  of  the  southeast ;  ^and  there  are  700,000  head  kept  in  the  State. 
The  chief  dairy  farms  are  in  the  Willamette  Valley  and  along  the  coast.  Live-stock  remains 
out-doors  all  winter,  fattening  on  the  sun-cured  bunch-grass  of  the  east  and  the  perennial  Wil- 
lamette pastures ;  and  of  late  years  the  herds  have  been  greatly  improved  in  breed.  Vast 
numbers  of  cattle  are  sent  to  the  Eastern  markets.  The  wool-clip  exceeds  16,000,000  pounds 
a  year,  the  fleeces  being  of  excellent  weight  and  quality.  There  are  more  than  2,600,000 
sheep  grazing  along  the  mountains  during  the  summer. 


THE  STATE   OF  OREGON. 


705 


PORTLAND  :    THE  CITY  HALL. 


Oregon  has  25,000  square  miles  of  woodlands,  including  the  famous  Ore- 
gon pine,  or  red  fir,  the  finest  ship  timber  in  the  world,  with  red  and  white 
cedar  and  hemlock,  oak  and  maple,  cottonwood  and  ash. 
The  lumbering  interests  are  very  extensive.  The  firs  and 
cedars  are  of  giant  growth,  logs  from  four  to  ten  feet  in 
diameter  going  into  the  mills  daily.  Most  of  the  mills  are 
on  Coos  Bay,  at  Astoria,  and  along  the  Lower  Columbia; 
and  at  Portland,  where  there  are  a  dozen  mills.  Lum- 
ber is  shipped  by  rail  as  far  east  as  Omaha,  and  by  sea 
to  San  Francisco  and  the  Pacific  ports  of  North,  Central 
and  South  America,  the  Sandwich  Islands,  Australia, 
Japan  and  China.  This  industry  is  growing  rapidly. 
Minerals. — The  Coos-Bay  coal-field  begins  near  the  Coquille  and  runs  north  to  the  Ump- 
qua,  going  inland  nearly  20  miles,  a  region  of  rugged  hills  broken  by  narrow  estuaries. 
The  winter  storms  sweep  this  coast  with  fearful  power  and  peril.  The  chief  mines  are 
at  Marshfield,  and  their  product  reaches  from  30,000  to  50,000  tons  a  year  of  lignitic 
coal.  Oregon  has  large  deposits  of  iron-ore,  and  at  Oswego,  five  miles  from  Portland,  the 
Oregon  Iron  and  Steel  Works  make  50  tons  of  pig-iron  daily.  It  is  a  brown  hematite  of 
excellent  quality,  in  a  vein  from  six  to  15  feet  thick. 

Gold  and  silver  have  been  produced  to  the  amount  of  $1,000,000  yearly,  largely  from 
the  deep  placers  of  the  southwest,  whence  it  is  ex- 
tracted by  the  hydraulic  process.  The  gold  and  silver 
mines  of  the  Blue  Mountains  have  been  worked  for 
many  years,  with  varying  success.  The  placer-mines  of 
Baker  County  have  yielded  over  $20,000,000;  and 
those  of  Jackson  County,  $30,000,000.  Chrome  ore 
is  mined  in  Southern  Oregon ;  nickel  at  Riddle,  in 
the  Umpqua  Valley;  manganese,  in  Columbia  County; 
copper,  in  Josephine  County  ;  and  quicksilver  near 
Oakland.  The  State  has  quarries  of  lime,  basalt, 
brick-clay,  granite,  marble  and  sandstone. 

The  Government  of  Oregon  has  its  headquarters 
at  Salem,  where  the  handsome  classic  State  House 
(built  in  1873-89)  looks  out  upon  the  snowy  peaks  of  the  Cascades.  Salem  also  has  the 
Penitentiary,  with  300  convicts,  making  stoves  and  brick ;  the  Institute  for  the  Blind ;  the 
School  for  Deaf  Mutes,  and  the  Asylum  for  the  Insane  (with  600  inmates).  The  Oregon 
National  Guard  was  organized  in  1883,  by  the  union  of  several  independent  companies  into 
a  battalion,  which  did  good  service  during  the  anti-Chinese  agitation  of  1886.  The  next 
year  the  legislature  provided  for  the  organization  and  equipment  of  a  brigade  of  three  regi- 
ments. The  First  Regiment  has  a  strong  and  handsome  armory  at  Portland. 

Education  has  been  richly  endowed  with  National  land-grants,  and  is  carefully  guarded 

by  the  Oregonians.  The  normal  schools  are  at 
Monmouth,  Drain,  Ashland  and  Weston.  The 
University  of  Oregon  was  founded  by  the  State, 
at  Eugene  City,  in  1876,  and  has  a  large  Nat- 
ional land-grant,  and  receives  yearly  legislative 
appropriations.  It  includes  100  students,  be- 
sides a  large  preparatory  school,  and  a  medical 
school  at  Portland.  The  State  Agricultural 
College,  at  Corvallis,  owns  large  endowments 

in  land  and  funds.     Willamette  University  re- 

STEEL  BRIDGE  OVER  THE  WILLAMETTE.         ceived  incorporation  in  1853.     It  has  a  college 


PORTLAND  I    CHAMBER  OF  COMMERCE. 


706 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  Of   THE   UNITED  STATES. 


PORTLAND  :    FIRST  REGIMENT  ARMORY. 


of  liberal  arts,  a  woman's  college,  a  conservatory  of  music,  an  academy,  and  the  affiliated 
academies  at  Wilbur,  Sheridan,  the  Dalles,  Lebanon  and  Drain.  Its  law  and  medical  schools 
are  at  Portland.  This  great  Methodist  institution  occupies  an  estate  of  18  acres  at  Salem, 
in  the  Willamette  Valley.  The  Congregationalists  in  1849  or" 
ganized  at  Forest  Grove,  Pacific  University,  which  now  has  24 
students,  besides  no  in  its  Tualatin  Academy.  Other 
sects  conduct  small  colleges  at  Philomath,  McMinnville 
and  Monmouth.  The  Catholics  have  academies  at  Port- 
land, Salem,  the  Dalles,  Baker  City,  Mt.  Angel,  St.  Paul, 
Jacksonville  and  Gervais ;  the  Episcopalians,  at  Portland 
(the  Bishop-Scott  Academy  for  boys  and  St.  Helen's 
Hall  for  girls),  Astoria  and  Cove ;  and  there  are  other 
academies  at  Bethel,  Portland,  Newberg,  Jefferson,  Dallas,  Harrisburg  and  the  Dalles. 

The  Indian  Training  School  at  Chemawa,  on  Lake  LaBish,  near  Salem,  has  180  boys 
and  girls  from  30  tribes,  under  careful  instruction  in  the  grammar-school  branches,  and  also 
in  carpentry  and  blacksmithing,  tailoring  and  farming,  and  other  useful  industries. 

The  National  defences  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  Fort  Stevens,  on  Point  Adams, 
and  Fort  Canby  on  Cape  Hancock,  have  long  been  abandoned  for  military  purposes.  So 
also  with  the  fortified  posts  in  the  Indian  country,  the  last  of  which,  Fort  Klamath,  was 
evacuated  in  1889.  The  Oregon  coast  is  beaconed  by  the 
lights  at  Cape  Blanco,  Cape  Arago,  Cape  Foulweather,  Tilla- 
mook  Head  or  Cape  Meares,  Point  Adams,  and  more  than  a 
score  along  the  Lower  Columbia  and  Willamette  Rivers. 

The  Finances  of  Oregon  in  a  business  point  of  view 
are  mainly  concentrated  at  Portland,  whose  banks  have  avail- 
able resources  of  nearly  $20,000,000.  A  clearing-house  was 
established  here  in  1889,  and  shows  a  business  of  $100,000,- 
ooo  a  year,  although  but  ten  out  of  the  16  city  banks  belong 
to  or  settle  their  daily  balances,  through  it. 

The  First  National  Bank  of  Portland  was  established  in 
July,  1865,  and  is  the  oldest  National  bank  west  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains.  Th?  capital  was  originally  $100,000. 
In  1869  the  controlling  interest  was  acquired  by  Henry  Fail-  PORTLAND:  FIRST  NATIONAL  BANK. 
ing  and  H.  W.  Corbett,  who  have  continued  in  the  -control  and  management.  In  1870  the 
capital  was  increased  to  $250,000,  and  again  in  1888  to  $500,000.  The  management  has 
been  of  a  conservative  and  enlightened  character ;  and  the  bank  now  stands  preeminently 
at  the  head  of  the  financial  institutions  of  the  Pacific  Northwest.  Besides  the  capital  of 
$500,000,  it  has  a  surplus  and  undivided  profits  exceeding  $800,000;  and  the  deposits 
amount  to  nearly  $4,000,000.  It  is  a  United- States  depositary,  and  has  a  collection  busi- 
ness extending  throughout  the  Union.  In  the  building 
up  of  "  the  Boston  of  the  Pacific  Coast,"  and  sustaining 
it  triumphantly  through  the  financial  storms  which  have 
swept  over  the  Northwest,  the  First  National  Bank  has 
exerted  a  powerful  and  beneficent  influence. 

Another  strong  and  influential  bank  is  Ladd  &  Til. 
ton,  of  Portland,  whose  connections  extend  all  over  the 
Northwest,  and  whose  correspondents  are  in  every  State, 
and  include  direct  interests  in  several  of  the  interior 
banks  of  Oregon  and  Washington.  Their  capital  is 
$250,000,  with  a  surplus  and  undivided  profits  of  nearly 
double  that  amount,  and  a  personal  responsibility  of 
several  millions.  Among  the  great  financial  houses  of 


PORTLAND  i    LADD  <fc  TILTON'S  BANK. 


THE  STATE  OF  OREGON. 


707 


the  purse-bearing  Pacific  Coast,  Ladd  &  Tilton  are  reputed  to  occupy  the  highest  place  of 
all  the  private  bankers,  skilfully  employing  their  portion  of  the  available  capital  in  the 
development  of  trade  and  commerce.  At  Seattle,  too,  Ladd  &  Tilton  have  gained  a  foremost 
position,  as  they  are  practically  the  owners  .  ->.  ^ 

and  officers  of  Dexter  Horton  &  Co. 's  bank. 
These  two  financial  institutions  are  among 
the  oldest  on  the  Northwest  Pacific  Coast. 

Chief  Cities. — Portland  is  a  prosperous 
shipping  port  and  railway  centre,  the  metropo- 
lis of  the  Willamette  Valley,  "the  Eden  of 
Oregon."  In  a  single  year  5, 000,000  bush  els  of 
wheat  and  500,000  barrels  of  flour  have  been 
exported,  and  vast  quantities  of  lumber  to  China,  Japan  and  South  America.  There  are 
a  hundred  millionaires  in  this  city.  Portland  lies  on  the  Willamette,  no  miles  from  the 
sea,  and  its  hills  rise  1,000  feet,  commanding  noble  views  of  Mts.  Hood  and  Rainier, 
St.  Helena  and  Adams.  Among  its  buildings  are  that  of  the  Portland  Industrial  Exposition, 
the  largest  on  the  Pacific  Coast ;  a  $700,000  opera  house,  three  large  hospitals,  a  Masonic 
temple,  40  churches,  and  numerous  efficient  schools  and  colleges.  The  city  is  the  greatest 
railway  centre  on  the  Coast,  and  is  favorably  situated  at  the  head  of  deep-sea  navigation  on 


PORTLAND  :    PORTLAND  INDUSTRIAL  EXPOSITION  BUILDING. 


c 


PORTLAND,  AND  THE  WILLAMETTE  RIVER. 


the  Columbia  and  Willamette.  It  is  the  metropolis  of  the  entire  Columbia  Valley,  and  second 
in  size  to  San  Francisco  on  the  Pacific  Coast.  Its'  population  is  69,000,  by  the  census  of 
1890,  of  whom  but  47,000  live  within  its  very  contracted  official  limits.  It  has  14  banks, 
with  a  capital  of  $9,000,000  and  weekly  clearances  of  $1,800,000.  It  manufactures 
$28,000,000  worth  of  goods,  and  did  a  wholesale  business  of  $132,000,000  in  1890. 
Its  real-estate  transactions  are  $24,000,000  yearly,  and  its  building  improvements  $5,000,- 
ooo.  Its  exports  reach  $12,000,000  a  year,  and  its  money-order  business  at  the  post- 
office  $3,000,000.  It  has  extensive  systems  of  cable-road  and  electric-motor  lines,  and  is 
lighted  by  electricity  generated  at  the  Willamette  Falls,  12  miles  distant.  This  beautiful 
queen  city  of  the  far  Northwest  is  the  terminal  point  of  the  Southern  Pacific  line  from  San 
Francisco,  the  Union  Pacific  routes  by  the  Oregon  Short  Line  and  the  Oregon  Railway  & 
Navigation  Co.,  the  Northern  Pacific  routes  via  Tacoma,  and  the  new  system  of  the  Great 
Northern  Railway,  now  threading  its  way  over  the 
Rocky  Mountains  from  far-away  Minnesota.  It  has 
also  steamship  lines  to  Japan,  to  Alaska,  to  British  Col- 
umbia, and  to  San  Francisco,  besides  several  lines  of 
steamers  employed  in  the  Coast  trade  ;  and  sailing-ves- 
sels load  here  for  China,  South  America,  New  York, 
and  the  United  Kingdom.  By  reason  of  her  favorable  OREGON  c 

J  ,       ,  WILLAMETTE    FALLS. 

position  at  the  head  of  deep-sea  navigation,   and  the 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE   UNITED  STATES. 

wonderful  resources  of  the  country  of  which  Portland 
is  the  metropolis,  her  influence  and  importance  must 
continue  to  increase.  One  of  the  chief  agents  in  the  re- 
cent development  of  Portland's  interests  is  the  Oregon 
Emigration  Board. 

Vast  quantities  of  Oregon  and  Washington  white 
wheat  are  handled  at  Portland,  by  the  Pacific-Coast 
Elevator,  of  which  F.  H.  Peavey  is  President.  This 
structure  has  a  capacity  of  1,000,000  bushels,  and  the 
40  country  houses  belonging  to  the  company  hold 
1,300,000  bushels. 

Astoria's  busy  wharves  front  on  the  broad  Columbia 
estuary  for  a  league,  and  preserve  the  memories  of  the 
old  fur-trading  days,  while  sheltering  a  considerable  commerce.  The  business  district  is 
built  on  piles,  like  Amsterdam ;  the  residence  quarter  rises  along  higher  terraces  of  the 
heights  behind ;  and  the  great  forest  sweeps  around  all  its  landward  environs.  The  most 
important  towns  in  Eastern  Oregon  are  Baker  City,  Pendleton  and  the  Dalles ;  the  most 
important  in  Southern  Oregon  are  Ashland,  Jacksonville  and  Medford,  in  the  Rogue-River 
Valley,  and  Roseburg,  in  the  Umpqua  Valley. 

Oregon  is  now  receiving  very  large  accessions  to  her  population.  Capital  is  flow  -ing 
into  the  State,  developing  her  great  natural  resources,  and  destiny  points  to  her  as  one  of 
the  great  States  of  the  American  Union. 

The  Railway  system  includes  the  Oregon  Railway  &  Navigation  Line  (Union  Pacific) 


SANTIAM    RIVER  :      ON    THE   CASCADE-MOUN- 
TAIN   AND   WILLAMETTE-VALLEY 
WAGON -ROAD. 


Idaho  and  Wyom- 
1  a  n  d    southward 


PORTLAND  :    UNION  PASSENGER  DEPOT. 


from  Portland  east  to  Huntington  (404  miles),  connecting  there  for 
ing;  the  Oregon  and  California  line  (Southern  Pacific)  from  Port- 
into  the  Golden  State ;  and  the  Northern  Pa- 
cific line,  crossing  the  Columbia  River  by  ferry 
at  Kalama,  and  running  down  to  Portland.   Also 
three   distinct   lines  of  the  Southern  Pacific, 
besides  the  Union  line,  running  up  the  entire 
length  of  the  Willamette  Valley.     The  Union 
Pacific  system   ramifies  throughout  the  entire 
Upper-Columbia  and  Snake-River  region,  reaching  Spokane  Falls  and  the  Coeur-d'Alene 
mines  in  Idaho. 

One  of  the  wonders  of  the  Pacific  Coast  is  the  new  Hotel  Portland,  opened  April  7, 
1890,  at  the  metropolis  of  Oregon.  This  beautiful  specimen  of  French-chateau  architect- 
ure is  built  in  the  shape  of  the  letter  H,  with  north  and  south  wings  50  by  200  feet  in  area, 
and  a  central  wing  of  50  by  100  feet,  each  being  eight  stories  high,  and  built  of  gray  basaltic 
rock  and  brick.  This  immense  and  luxurious  home  for  travelers,  with  its  elegant  furnishing 
and  equipment,  cost  three  quarters  of  a  million  dollars,  and  contains  every  possible  device  for 
comfort  and  content.  Its  350  rooms  are  heated  by  steam  and  lighted 
by  electricity,  and  provided  with  the  most  ingenious  protection  against 
fire.  Amid  the  Wilton  carpets  and  rose-silk-plush  upholstery,  the 
carved  oak  buffets  and  silverplate,  the  shining  mir- 
rors and  mahogany  furniture  of  this  modern  hostelry, 
one  must  realize  that  the  old  Northwest,  with  its  perils 
and  hardships,  has  passed  away  forever.  The  man- 
ager of  the  Portland  is  Charles  E.  Leland,  for  many 
years  proprietor  of  the  Delavan,  at  Albany,  the  Clar- 
endon, at  Saratoga,  and  the  Rossmore,  at  New  York, 
—one  of  the  Leland  family  whose  name  is  indelibly 


PORTLAND  ;   THE  PORTLAND. 


associated  with  the  hostelries  of  this  generation. 


The  claim  of  the  Dutch 

to  the  soil  of  Pennsylvania 

rested  on  the  discovery  of 

Delaware    Bay  by  Henry 

Hudson,  in   1609.      Seven 

years  later,  Cornells  Hen- 

dricksen  explored  the  Dela- 
ware River  as  far  as  the 

Schuylkill ;  and  ephemeral 

colonies  soon  arose  along  the  lower  shores.  Swedish  ships 
entered  the  Delaware  in  1638,  and  their  people  founded 
the  first  towns  in  Pennsylvania.  The  Puritan  immigrants 
from  Connecticut,  settling  on  the  Schuylkill  in  1641,  were 
ousted  and  sent  home  by  the  Swedes  and  Dutch.  The  first 
permanent  European  settlement  was  made  at  Tinicum, 
near  Chester,  where  Lieut. -Col.  Printz,  of  the  Swedish 
cavalry,  and  the  learned  Pastor  Campanius  founded  New 
Gottenburg  "the  metropolis  of  New  Sweden."  In  his 
handsome  mansion  of  Printz  Hall,  Gov.  Printz's  daughter 
Armegard  was  married  the  next  year  (the  first  wedding  in 
Pennsylvania).  The  growth  of  New  Sweden,  and  its  pur- 
chases of  land  from  the  Indians,  alarmed  the  Dutch  of 
New  Netherland,  and  in  1655  a  fleet  of  seven  vessels,  led 
by  Stuyvesant,  swooped  down  on  the  little  Scandinavian 
fortresses,  and  made  captives  of  all  the  Swedes  and  Finns. 
A  few  years  later,  a  similar  operation  was  conducted  by  Sir 
Robert  Carr's  fleet,  and  the  Dutch  colonies  on  the  Dela- 
ware surrendered  to  the  power  of  England. 

When  the  brave  Admiral  Sir  William  Penn  died,  the 
British  Government  owed  him  ^"16,000.  In  1680,  his  son, 
William  Penn,  petitioned  King  Charles  II.  to  discharge 
this  debt  by  granting  him  a  tract  of  land  in  America,  north 
of  Maryland  and  west  of  the  Delaware  River  ;  and  so,  the 
next  year,  Penn  was  made  absolute  proprietary  of  the  new 
province.  In  1682  he  came  to  his  principality,  and  entered  into  friendly  relations  with  the 
chiefs  of  the  Delawares,  Mingoes  and  Shawnees,  and  before  their  council-fire  established 
the  fraternal  relations  which  preserved  an  unbroken  peace  in  the  Province  for  more  than  50 


Settled  at Tinicum. 

Settled  in 1643 

Founded  by Swedes. 

One  of  the  Original  13  States. 
Population  in  1860,      .    .    .  2,906,215 

In  1870, 3.521,951 

In  1880, 4,282,891 

White 4,197,016 

Colored 85,875 

American-born,     .     .     .  3,695,062 
Foreign-born,   ....     587,829 

Males, 2,136,655 

Females, 2,146,236 

In  1890  (U.  S.  Census),    .     .  5,258,014 
Population  to  the  square  mile,      95.2 
Voting  Population,      .     .    .  1,094,284 
Vot e  for  Harrison  ( 1 88?),      526,091 
Vote  for  Cleveland  (1888),     446,633 
Net  State  Debt,       .    .    .    $1,788,026 
Assessed  Valuation  of 

Property  (1890),  .  $2,593,000,000 
Area  (square  miles),  .  .  .  45.215 
U.  S.  Representatives  (in  1893),  3" 
Militia  (Disciplined),  .  .  .  8,335 

Counties 

Post-offices 4,72° 

Railroads  (miles),    ....         8,453 

Vessels, 1,029 

Tonnage 273,203 

Manufactures  (yearly),    $704,748, 

Operatives, 3°7,"2 

Yearly  Wages,     .    .     $134,055.304 
Farm  Land  (in  acres),      .    20,060,455 
Farm-Land  Values,      $975,689,410 
FarmProducts  (yearly)  $129,760,476 
Public  Schools,  Average 
Daily  Attendance,  .    .    .     687,355 

Newspapers 1.357 

Latitude,  .  .  .  39°43'  to  42°i5'  N- 
Longitude,  .  .  74*42'  to  80034'  W. 
Temperature,  .  .  .  — 16°  to  103° 
Mean  Temperature  (Harrisburg),  54° 

TEN  CHIEF  CITIES  AND  THEIR  POPU- 
LATIONS (CENSUS  OF  1890). 


1,046,964 
1,617 


Philadelphia,    .    . 

Pittsburgh, 238, 

Allegheny  City 105,287 

Scranton, 75,215 

Reading 58,661 

Erie, 4O.634 

Harrisburg, 39>3°5 

Wilkes-Barre 37.7i8 

Lancaster, 32,01 

Altoona, •  3°>337 


yio 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


years.  The  State's  domain  was  secured  from  the  Indians  by  six  great  purchases,  begin- 
ning in  1682  and  ending  in  1784.  During  the  40  years  after  1683  more  than  50,000  Ger- 
man and  Swiss  settlers  migrated  to  Pennsylvania,  giving  it  almost  the  character  of  a 
Teutonic  province.  After  the  death  of  the  wise  Quaker  founder,  in 
1718,  the  government  lay  in  the  hands  of  his  kinsmen,  John,  Rich- 
ard and  Thomas  Penn  and  their  heirs  until  1776.  The  first  serious 
danger  from  without  came  from  the  French,  who  in  1753-4  erected 
a  line  of  forts  along  the  Allegheny  and  Ohio  Rivers.  In  1755  Gen. 
Braddock  advanced  from  Alexandria,  Virginia,  against  Fort  Du- 
quesne  (now  Pittsburgh),  with  Halkett's  and  Dunbar's  regiments  v 
of  regulars  and  1,200  Virginians.  After  marching  across  the  path- 
less Alleghenies,  and  when  approaching  the  fort,  the  expeditionary  PHILADELPHIA  : 
force  was  ambuscaded  by  600  Frenchmen  and  Indians,  and  after  PENN  TREATY  MONUMENT. 
three  hours  of  carnage,  in  which  Braddock  and  62  officers  and  714  soldiers  were  slain,  the 
remnant  of  the  British  army  gave  way.  After  this  victory,  the  French  and  Indians  ad- 
vanced across  the  Susquehanna,  and  into  Lancaster  and  Berks  Counties ;  and  the  alarmed 
Pennsylvanians  erected  and  garrisoned  a  chain  of  forts  along  the  Kittatinny  Hills,  from  the 
Delaware  to.  the  Maryland  border.  The  Assembly  pursued  a  Quaker  policy  of  non-resist- 
ance; but  in  1756  Col.  Armstrong  destroyed  Kittanning,  on  the  Alleghenies,  and  Gov. 
Denny  raised  25  companies  of  volunteers  and  garrisoned  the  frontier.  In  1758  Gen.  Forbes 
and  9,000  troops  marched  against  Fort  Duquesne,  which  was  blown  up  and  abandoned  by 
the  French.  Thenceforward  for  many  decades  the  western  slopes  of 
the  Alleghenies  witnessed  the  slow  and  heroic  advance  of  the  Scotch- 
Irish  people  and  other  frontiersmen,  pressing  back  the  Indian 
tribes  farther  and  farther  into  the  unknown  wilderness,  and  receiv- 
ing and  inflicting  terrible  blows.  Col.  Bouquet's  expedition  and 
victory  at  Bushy  Run,  in  1763,  and  other  martial  events  at  last 
cleared  the  frontier.  Mason  and  Dixon's  line  was  run  and 
marked  in  1767,  by  two  English  surveyors,  to  settle  long-standing 
border-disputes  between  Pennsylvania  and  Maryland,  and  consisted 
of  a  cutting  through  the  forest  eight  yards  wide  and  245  miles  long, 
with  each  of  the  first  132  miles  ending  at  an  erected  stone,  each 
fifth  stone  bearing  the  carved  arms  of  Lord  Baltimore  and  the  Penn 
family.  These  learned  mathematicians  would  have  gone  farther 
west,  but  the  Indians  sought  for  their  scalps,  and  they  returned  to  London. 

The  original  elements  of  the  population  included  the  Swedes  and  Dutch  of  the  first  mi- 
grations, the  English  and  Welsh  Quakers  who  came  with  Penn,  the  Germans,  the  New- 
Englanders  who  colonized  the  Valley  of  Wyoming,  and  the  Scotch-Irish  settling  along  the 
perilous  frontiers.  The  great  streams  of  humanity  that  flowed  into  Pennsylvania  in  the  early 
days  still  remain  more  distinct  than  the  white  races  of  any  other  State  so  long  settled.  The 
simple  manners  and  plain  speech  of  the  English  Friends,  the  positive  and  energetic  traits 
of  the  Scotch-Irish  Presbyterians,  and  the  thrift  and  industry  of  the  Germans  still  appear 
in  evidence  in  the  regions  they  originally  settled.  The  Valley  of  Wyoming  was  occupied 
in  1762  by  immigrants  from  Connecticut,  whose  Royal  Charter  covered  northern  Pennsyl- 
vania. The  valiant  Iroquois  Indians  fell  upon  these  pioneers, 
and  slew  thirty  of  them,  whereupon  the  survivors  fled. 

But  the  New-Englanders  finally  prevailed,  and  the  great 
valley,  dotted  with  Congregational  hamlets,  became  a  part  r1 
of  Litchfield  County,  with  representatives  in  the  Connecti- 
cut Legislature.  During  the  Revolution,  400  Tory  Rangers 
and  Royal  Greens  and  700  Seneca  Indians  defeated  and 
massacred  Col.  Zebulon  Butler's  400  valle)  militia ;  and  OLDEST  MILL  IN  PENNSYLVANIA. 


PHILADELPHIA  : 
BENJAMIN    FRANKLIN'S  GRAVE. 


THE  STATE   OF  PENNSYLVANIA. 


711 


PHILADELPHIA  : 
CARPENTERS'    HALL. 


the  region  was  swept  with  the  fire  and  steel  of  destruction  for 
years.  After  the  war,  the  Connecticut  settlements  were  re- 
built, and  again  and  again  sacked  and  depopulated  by  the  Pen- 
namite  troops,  until  1799,  when  the  seventeen  valley  town- 
ships were  allotted  to  the  New-Englanders,  whose  descendants 
now  hold  them,  as  a  part  of  Pennsylvania. 

Fayette,  Greene  and  Washington  Counties,  in  southwestern 
Pennsylvania,  were  claimed  as  a  part  of  Virginia,  included  in  the 
District  of  West  Augusta.  Gov.  Dunmore  opened  Virginian 
courts  at  Pittsburgh  (then  re-named  Fort  Dunmore),  in  1774; 
and  the  region  was  divided  into  the  counties  of  Yohogania, 
Monongalia  and  Ohio.  Virginian  land-officers  gave  titles  at  ten 
shillings  the  hundred  acres,  and  Washington  acquired  property 
here.  Finally,  however,  Gov.  John  Penn  swooped  down  on  the 
Southern  officials,  and  put  their  chief  men  in  prison. 

Pennsylvania  took  up  arms  promptly  in  the  cause  of  Ameri- 
can independence,  and  the  flower  of  her  frontiersmen  marched  to  Boston,  in  July,  1775, 
and  joined  the  New-Englanders  in  rescuing  their  metropolis  from  the  British  garrison. 
This  celebrated  Rifle  Regiment  was  the  first  command  from 
beyond  the  Hudson  to  reach  the  American  camps  near  Bos- 
ton. After  the  fall  of  New  York  the  scene  of  war  was  trans- 
ferred to  the  peaceful  plains  of  the  Keystone  State.  In  1777 
Gen.  Howe's  British  and  German  army  passed  by  sea  to  the 
head  of  Chesapeake  Bay,  and  defeated  Washington  on  the 
Brandywine,  after  an  all-day's  battle,  in  which  England  lost 
600  men,  and  America  twice  as  many.  Then  the  invading 
host  occupied  Philadelphia,  whence  Congress  had  fled  to 
Lancaster.  The  State  navy  consisted  of  27  gunboats,  fire- 
rafts,  floating  batteries  and  guard-boats.  After  Philadelphia 
fell  into  hostile  hands,  this  fleet  bravely  fought  the  British 
squadron  ascending  the  Delaware,  and  destroyed  the  Au- 
gusta, 74,  and  the  Merlin,  44.  When  Fort  Mifflin  surren- 
dered, the  larger  part  of  the  State  fleet  crept  up  by  Philadel-  PHILADELPHIA  : 

,   .       .'  -      .     ,  n       T  TT  4.1.    •  -1  THE    INDEPENDENCE    BELL. 

phia  in  the  shadow  of  night,  to  Burlington.  Hence  their  sail- 
ors sent  swarms  of  infernal  machines  floating  down  stream,  against  the  British  war-vessels, 
whose  roaring  broadsides,  directed  against  them,  gave  rise  to  the  poem  of  "  The  Battle  of 
the  Kegs."  A  marble  monument  was  erected  in  1817  over  the  grave  of  Wayne's  Conti- 
nentals, slain  in  the  midnight  massacre  at  Paoli ;  and  Germantown  has  many  memorials  of 
its  terrible  battle  in  the  October  fogs,  when  Washington  hurled  his  brave  little  army 
against  the  British  defenses,  and  lost  1,200  men  in 
vain.  All  that  long  winter  Washington  lay  in  miser- 
able cantonments  at  Valley  Forge,  watching  the  com- 
fortable and  luxurious  Britons  in  Philadelphia.  Early 
in  the  summer,  the  Royal  army  evacuated  the  city, 
and  retreated  across  New  Jersey  to  New  York,  fol- 
lowed by  Washington.  The  troops  of  the  Pennsyl- 
vania Line  revolted  in  1781,  and  marched  to  Prince- 
ton, where  they  compelled  Congress  to  remedy  their 
undoubted  grievances.  In  1 783  they  boldly  menaced 
Congress  again,  in  Philadelphia,  and  constrained  that 
body  to  adjourn  to  Princeton.  The  Whiskey  Insur- 
rection of  1794  arose  from  the  determination  of  Con-  PHILADELPHIA  :  INDEPENDENCE  HALL. 


712 


HANDBOOK  OF  THE   UNITED  STATES. 


THE   VALLEY    OF   WYOMING. 


gress  to  impose  a  tax  on  stills  and  distilled  liquors, 
which  were  among  the  most  highly  prized  posses- 
sions of  the  Scotch- Irish  mountaineers  of  the  Alle- 
ghenies.  The  four  western  counties  of  Pennsyl- 
vania flew  to  arms,  and  United- States  officials  suf- 
fered gross  indignities,  houses  were  burned,  and 
people  were  driven  from  the  country  by  "Tom 
Tinker's  men."  President  Washington  called  out 
13,000  Pennsylvania,  New -Jersey,  Maryland  and 
Virginia  troops,  under  Gov.  Henry  Lee  of  Vir- 
ginia, and  journeyed  by  Carlisle  and  Chambersburg 
to  Cumberland  and  Bedford,  the  army  advancing  to  Uniontown.  The  insurgents  gave  way 
instantly  before  the  Federal  authority,  and  then  for  the  first  time  it  was  seen  that  the 
United  States  was  a  Nation,  and  not  a  rope  of  sand,  to  be  broken  whenever  any  section 
disliked  a  law.  In  I795~6  Carlisle,  Reading  and  Lancaster  contended  for  the  seat  of  the 
State  government,  which  passed  from  Philadelphia  to  Lancaster  in  1799,  and  to  Harris- 
burg  in  1812.  In  1804  stages  began  to  run  from  Philadelphia  to  Pittsburgh,  in  seven  days, 
by  Lancaster,  Harrisburg,  Carlisle,  Bedford,  Somerset  and  Greensburg.  In  the  war  of 
1812,  Pennsylvania  had  a  larger  force  engaged  than  any  other  State,  at  the  defence  of 
Baltimore  and  in  the  invasion  of  Canada  and  on  , — 
Perry's  victorious  fleet,  although  her  own  soil  re- 
mained inviolate  from  hostile  arms. 

For  many  years  after  the  peace  of  1783  there 
was  nothing  but  a  horse-path  over  the  Alleghenies, 
and  salt,  iron,  powder,  lead  and  other  necessities 
came  from  the  coast  on  pack-horses.  The  farmers 
of  fertile  Western  Pennsylvania,  thus  shut  out 
from  a  market,  turned  their  faces  down  the  long 
river-valleys,  where  the  Spaniards  held  sway. 
Building  unwieldy  arks  of  plank,  and  loading  them 
with  produce,  they  floated  down  the  Ohio  and 
Mississippi,  exposed  to  the  Indian  rifles,  until  they  reached  New  Orleans,  where  the  pro- 
ducts of  the  Pennsylvanian  hills  were  changed  into  coin.  Sometimes  these  bold  Argonauts 
took  ship  to  New  York,  and  returned  home  over  the  Alleghenies  ;  but  usually  they  walked 
home,  through  the  Louisiana  and  Mississippi  cane-brakes,  and  across  the  silent  mountains 
of  Tennessee  and  Virginia.  The  National  Road  was  built  in  1806-17,  by  the  United  States, 
in  discharge  of  an  agreement  with  Ohio  to  unite  her  domain  with  the  navigable  waters  of 
the  Atlantic.  The  eastern  division  of  the  road  ran  from  Cumberland  to  Redstone  Old  Fort 
(now  Brownsville,  Penn.),  where  the  weary  emigrants  could  get  on  flat-boats  and  float 
down  to  the  Ohio.  The  western  division  ran  from  Redstone  Old  Fort  to  Wheeling  (W. 

Va. ).  The  road  was  66  feet  wide,  paved  for  20  feet 
with  broken  rock,  on  a  pavement  of  close-set  stones. 
In  1832-35  the  Government  put  this  great  highway  in 
complete  repair,  and  surrendered  it  to  the  States 
whose  territory  it  traversed. 

Although  contiguous  to  one  of  the  most  conserva- 
tive Slave  States,  Pennsylvania  was  always  strongly 
opposed  to  human  servitude,  and  its  Quaker  popula- 
tion took  strong  ground  against  the  Southern  insti- 
tution. 

The  first  Northern  troops  to  arrive  at  Washington 
STARUCGA  VIADUCT.  when  the  confederates  threatened  that  city  were  530 


JUNIATA    RIVER. 


THE   SUSQUEHANNA    BRIDGE. 


THE   STATE   OF  PENNSYLVANIA. 

Pennsylvania  vol- 
unteers. Fourteen 
regiments  were 
summoned  from 
this  State,  and  25 
responded;  and  out 
of  the  surplus  Gov. 
Cur  tin  organized 
the  famous  Penn- 
sylvania Reserves. 

The  records  of  the  Pennsylvania  regiments  are  preserved  in  five  imperial  octavo  volumes  of 
1,000  pages  each,  issued  by  the  State.  Her  contribution  to  the  National  armies  numbered 
362,284  men,  besides  25,000  militia  in  1862.  Again  and  again  her  lower  counties  were 
invaded  by  daring  Southern  raiders.  Chambersburg  was  captured  by  2,000  Confederate 
cavalry,  October  10,  1862,  and  vast  Government  stores  destroyed.  In  June,  1863,  Jenkins 
and  1, 800  Southern  riders  pillaged  the  town,  and  were  followed  by  Lee's  great  army. 
Thirteen  months  later,  Gen.  McCausland  captured  the  town  and  burnt  it  to  the  ground, 
inflicting  a  loss  of  $3,000,000.  June  16,  1863,  E well's  Confederate  corps  occupied  Car- 
lisle and  burned  the  bridge  and  barracks,  shelling  the  town  through  a  long  summer 

afternoon.  After  the  defeat  of  the  National  army 
at  Chancellorsville,  Gen.  Lee  invaded  Pennsyl- 
vania with  a  powerful  army  of  Southern  veterans, 
and  over-ran  the  Cumberland  and  lower  Susque- 
hanna  Valleys.  The  Army  of  the  Potomac  kept 
to  the  eastward,  to  cover  Washington,  Baltimore 
and  Philadelphia.  The  two  hosts  came  into  con- 
flict around  Gettysburg,  and  made  immortal  the 
name  of  the  peaceful  little  Pennsylvania  village. 
The  battle  lasted  through  July  I,  2,  and  3,  1863. 

THE  HORSE-SHOE  CURVE.  The  Confederates  had  7  3,000  engaged;  the  Federal 
forces  numbered  82,000.  In  the  first  day's  battle  the  First  (Reynolds's)  and  Eleventh  (How- 
ard's) Federal  Corps  were  defeated  and  driven  through  Gettysburg,  the  First  being  almost 
annihilated.  The  second  day  passed  in  bitter  fighting  around  Little  Round  Top  (defended 
by  Sickles's-  Third  Corps  against  the  flower  of  the  Southern  army),  and  in  Ewell's  unavail- 
ing assaults  on  Cemetery  Hill.  A  little  after  noon  on  the  third  day,  Lee  opened  against 
the  National  center  a  tremendous  cannonade  from  115  guns,  which  shook  the  valley  for  two 
hours,  at  the  end  of  which,  Pickett  and  his  magnificent  division  of  Virginians  swept  across 
the  plain  and  up  the  heights,  and  broke  through  the  Federal  lines.  But  their  losses  during 
the  charge  had  been  appalling;  the  supporting  brigades  gave  way;  and  the  Federal  batteries 
and  brigades  hurried  forward  from  right  and  left,  and  enwalled  Pickett  with  fire.  Most  of 
his  heroes  were  made  prisoners,  or  slain  on  the 
field.  The  next  day,  Lee  retreated  with  his  broken 
army  through  the  mountains.  Gen.  Doubleday, 
the  historian  of  the  battle,  endorses  the  Count  de 
Paris's  estimates  of  fhe  losses  in  the  Gettysburg 
campaign:  Federal,  2, 834  killed,  13,709  wounded, 
and  6,643  missing  (total,  23,186);  Confederate, 
2,665  killed,  12,599  wounded,  an(^  7>4^4  missing 
(total,  22,728). 

The  Soldiers'  National  Cemetery  covers  17 
acres  of  the  Federal  lines  in  the  great  battle,  with 
the  graves  of  3,575  soldiers.  Eighteen  States  are  THE  SUSQUEHANNA  RIVER. 


ALLEGHENY    MOUNTAINS 


7i4  KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED  STATES, 

represented:  New  York  with  867  graves,  Pennsylvania  with  555,  Michigan  with  175,  and 
Massachusetts  with  158,  being  the  chief.  The  States  bore  the  cost  of  thus  caring  for  their 
dead  children;  and  in  1872  the  Nation  took  charge  of  the  cemetery.  Near  the  semi-circle 
of  graves  rises  the  National  monument,  of  gray  Westerly  granite,  crowned  by  a  colossal  mar- 
ble statue  of  the  Genius  of  Liberty,  and  surrounded  by  marble  statues  of  War,  History, 
Peace  and  Plenty.  Here,  also,  stands  J.  Q.  A.  Ward's  bronze  statue  of  Gen.  John  F.  Rey- 
nolds, one  of  the  slain  in  the  first  day's  fight.  The  cemetery  was  dedicated  a  year  or  so 
after  the  battle,  and  on  this  field  President  Lincoln  delivered  his  immortal  address  :  "Fel- 
low Citizens  :  Fourscore  and  seven  years  ago  our  fathers  brought  forth  upon  this  continent 
a  new  nation,  conceived  in  Liberty,  and  dedicated  to  the  proposition  that  all  men  are 
created  equal.  Now  we  are  engaged  in  a  great  civil  war,  testing  whether  that  nation,  or 
any  nation  so  conceived  and  so  dedicated,  can  long  endure.  We  are  met  on  a  great  battle- 
field of  that  war.  We  are  met  to  dedicate  a  portion  of  it  as  a  final  resting-place  of  those 
who  here  gave  their  lives  that  that  nation  might  live.  It  is  altogether  fitting  and  proper 
that  we  should  do  this.  But  in  a  larger  sense  we  cannot  dedicate,  we  cannot  consecrate, 
we  cannot,  hallow  this  ground.  The  brave  men,  living  and  dead,  who  struggled  here,  have 
consecrated  it  far  above  our  power  to  add  or  detract.  The  world  will  little  note,  nor  long 
remember  what  we  say  here,  but  it  can  never  forget  what  they  did  here.  It  is  for  us,  the 
living,  rather  to  be  dedicated  here  to  the  unfinished  work  that  they  have  thus  so  far  nobly 
carried  on.  It  is  rather  for  us  to  be  here  dedicated  to  the  great  task  remaining  before  us  — 
that  from  these  honored  dead  we  take  increased  devotion  to  the  cause  for  which  they  here 
gave  the  last  full  measure  of  devotion  —  that  we  here  highly  resolve  that  the  dead  shall  not 
have  died  in  vain  ;  that  the  nation,  under  God,  shall  have  a  new  birth  of  freedom  ;  and  that 
the  government  of  the  people,  by  the  people,  and  for  the  people,  shall  not  perish  from 
the  earth." 

Since  the  dawn  of  peace,  Pennsylvania  has  pursued  the  even  tenor  of  her  way,  develop- 
ing her  famous  mines  and  manufactures,  under  the  fostering  care  of  National  tariffs.  This 
noble  and  historic  State  abounds  in  memorials  of  its  ancient  days,  like  the  famous  old 
taverns  of  Chester,  the  White  Horse,  Red  Lion,  Unicorn,  Hammer  and  Trowel,  Compass, 
Turk's  Head,  The  Bull,  and  others ;  the  century-old  houses  of  Chester,  still  scarred  with 
the  British  bombardment;  the  headquarters  of  Washington  and  Lafayette,  on  the  Brandy- 
wine  (Andrew  Braindwine's  Creek,  of  the  ancient  records)  ;  the  home  of  Washington  dur- 
ing the  weary  winter  of  1777-8,  at  Valley  Forge;  the  Chew  mansion,  whose  solid  stone 
walls  enabled  the  British  troops  to  check  the  victorious  Americans,  at  Germantown  ;  vener- 
able churches  like  St.  David's  at  Radnor  (built  in  1715),  the  Old  Swedes  and  Christ  Church, 
in  Philadelphia,  and  the  gray  old  shrines  of  Bristol ;  the  colonial  houses  of  Bedford  and  the 
valley  towns ;  and  scores  of  historic  mansions  about  Philadelphia.  Independence  Hall  was 
built  at  Philadelphia  in  1732-35,-  as  the  seat  of  the  Provincial  Government,  and  is  sacredly 
preserved.  Within  its  venerable  walls  the  Second  Continental  Congress  convened,  in  1776, 
and  adopted  the  Declaration  of  Independence,  which  was  read  to  the  assembled  citizens  in 
the  State-House  yard.  The  hall  contains  portraits  of  the  signers  of  the  Declaration,  and 
many  interesting  historical  relics.  The  First  Continental  Congress  met  in  1774,  in  Carpen- 
ters' Hall,  which  is  still  preserved,  at  Philadelphia,  with  its  memories  of  Patrick  Henry, 
John  Hancock  and  Sam.  Adams.  Overlooking  Lake  Erie,  near  the  city  of  Erie,  stands  a 
quaint  memorial  blockhouse,  armed  with  four  cannon,  erected  by  the  State  in  honor  of  its 
Revolutionary  hero,  Anthony  Wayne.  Gen.  Grant's  headquarters  during  the  siege  of 
Richmond  has  been  brought  from  City  Point  and  set  up  in  Fairmount  Park,  Philadelphia. 
William  Penn's  house,  longtime  the  home  of  the  founder  of  Pennsylvania,  has  also  been 
removed  to  the  Park.  Scores  of  monuments  in  all  parts  of  the  State,  at  Allegheny  City, 
Lancaster,  Carlisle,  Erie,  Norristown  and  elsewhere,  commemorate  the  valor  of  its  volunteers 
in  the  great  civil  war.  Other  monumental  shafts  at  Harrisburg  and  Paoli,  and  in  the  Valley 
of  Wyoming  and  other  places  preserve  the  memories  of  earlier  conflicts  and  other  heroes. 


THE  STATE  OF  PENNSYLVANIA. 

Zook 


GETTYSBURG     BATTLEFIELD    AND     MONUMENTS. 


7i6 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 


KINZUA    VIADUCT. 


The  Name,  Pennsylvania,  means  the  Sylvan 
Places  (or  Woodlands)  of  Penn,  and  was  given 
by  King  Charles  II.  of  England.  The  Penn  so 
commemorated  was  not  the  William  Penn  who 
founded  the  Commonwealth,  but  his  father,  Ad- 
miral Penn,  whom  the  King  greatly  esteemed. 
William  Penn  wished  to  have  the  country  named 
New  Wales,  but  the  Secretary,  a  Welshman  him- 
self, refused  to  allow  it ;  and  then  Penn  suggested 
Sylvania  as  an  appropriate  name,  and  the  King  pre- 
fixed it  with  Penn.  The  name  of  THE  KEYSTONE 
STATE  arises  from  the  fact  that  Pennsylvania  is  the  seventh  in  geographical  order  of  the  13 
original  States.  As  such,  her  name  was  cut  on  the  keystone  of  the  bridge  between  Wash- 
ington and  Georgetown.  Another  reason  is  that  the  final  vote  of  her  delegation  secured  the 
adoption  of  the  Declaration  of  Independence  in  the  Continental  Congress,  thus  crowning 
Pennsylvania  as  the  Keystone  of  the  arch  of  Liberty. 

The  Arms  of  Pennsylvania  were  devised  in  1779,  and  display  a  ship  in  full  sail,  a 
plough,  and  stalks  of  maize,  with  a  crest  showing  a  bald  eagle,  proper,  perched,  with  wings 
extended.  The  supporters  are  two  black  horses, 
harnessed  for  draught,  and  rampant.  The  motto 
is  :  VIRTUE,  LIBERTY,  AND  INDEPENDENCE. 

The  Governors  of  Pennsylvania  for  the  first 
57  years  were  24  Dutch,  Swedish  and  English 
gentlemen,  followed  from  1681  to  1776  by  the 
Provincial  Government  of  the  Penns  and  their 
deputies.  During  the  Revolution,  and  later,  the 
State  was  ruled  successively  by  Wharton,  Bryan, 
Reed,  Moore,  Dickinson,  Franklin  and  Mifflin, 
Presidents  of  the  Council.  Then  came  the  State 
Governors  :  Thomas  Miffiin,  1790-9.;  Thomas  McKean,  1799-1808 ;  Simon  Snyder,  1808-17  ; 
William  Findlay,  1817-20;  Joseph  Hiester,  1820-3;  John  Andrew  Shulze,  1823-9;  George 
Wolf,  1829-35;  Joseph  Ritner,  1835-9;  David  Rittenhouse  Porter,  1839-45;  Francis 
Rawn  Shunk,  1845-8;  Wm.  Freame  Johnston,  1848-52;  Wm.  Bigler,  1852-5;  James 
Pollock,  1855-8;  Wm.  Fisher  Packer,  1858-61;  Andrew  Gregg  Curtin,  1861-7;  John 
White  Geary,  1867-73;  Jonn  Frederick  Hartranft,  1873-9;  Henry  Martyn  Hoyt,  1879-83; 
Robert  Emory  Pattison,  1883-7 ;  James  A.  Beaver,  1887-91;  and  R.  E.  Pattison,  1891-5. 

Descriptive. —  Pennsylvania  is  the  only  one  of  the  13 
original  States  without  any  sea-coast.  It  extends  302  miles 
from  Ohio  and  the  Pan  Handle  of  West  Virginia  to  the  bor- 
ders of  New  Jersey  ;  and  has  a  width  of  175  miles,  from  the 
hills  of  New  York  southward  to  Mason  and  Dixon's  Line,  which 
separates  it  from  Maryland  and  West  Virginia.  In  a  large 
way,  this  great  domain  may  be  divided  into  three  sections, 
the  southeastern  plains,  the  middle  hills  and  valleys,  and  the 
western  highlands.  A  million  and  a  half  of  people  dwell  in 
the  eight  southeastern  counties,  one  of  the  loveliest  regions  in 
America,  pleasantly  diversified  with  country-seats,  park-like 
scenery,  tranquil  villages,  and  thousands  of  fruitful  farms. 
The  inhabitants  are  largely  of  German,  Huguenot  and 
Quaker  descent.  This  garden-like  country,  with  the  red 
sandy  clays  of  Bucks,  Montgomery  and  Lebanon  Counties, 
WI88AHICKON  CREEK  :  LOVERS'  LEAP,  and  the  gray  micaceous  soil  of  Delaware,  Chester  and  York 


PHILADELPHIA  : 
GIRARD-AVENUE  AND  PENNSYLVANIA-RAILROAD  BRIDGES. 


THE  STATE   OF  PENNSYLVANIA. 


717 


Mountain 
wide  and 
wooded 


PHILADELPHIA  I    OLD  STOCK  EXCHANGE. 


Counties,  merges  into  the  beautiful  Lancaster  plains,  which  belong  to  the  Great  Valley,  or 
Cumberland  Valley.     Here  and  there,  the  long  levels  of  the  farm-lands  are  broken  by  pic- 
turesque isolated  ridges,  like  the  Welsh,  Conewago  and  Forrest  Hills. 
A   million    people   occupy   the   middle    district,    between    South 
and  the  Alleghenies,  including  as  its  chief  feature  a  valley  15  miles 
150  miles  long,  bending  from  east  to  south,  and  enwalled  by  ranges  of 
mountains  from  i,odb  to  1,600  feet  high,  continuous  with 
the  Green  Mountains  of  Vermont  and  the  Smoky  Moun- 
tains of  North  Carolina.     In  all  the  thousand  miles  of  its 
course  from  Canada  to  the  lowlands  of  the  Gulf,  there  is  no 
richer  domain  than   Lancaster  County,  a  great   limestone 
plain  extending  from  beyond  the   Susquehanna  nearly  to 
Philadelphia,  and  occupied   everywhere   by  the  well-kept 
farms  and  huge  stone  barns  of  the  "Pennsylvania  Dutch." 
The  language  of  this  people  is  a  legitimate  South  German  (or  Upper  Rhineland)  dialect, 
which  has  taken  up  many  English  words,  and  possesses  a  considerable  body  of  literature. 

Middle  or  Appalachian  Pennsylvania  is  about  50  miles  wide  and  230  miles  long,  with 
the  Kittatinny  Mountain  on  one  side  and  the  steep  rocky  wall  of  the  Alleghenies  on  the 
other,  cut  by  the  narrow  gorges  of  several  rivers,  and  bearing  various  local  names.  The 
Catskill  or  Pocono  plateau  is  a  spacious  wilderness,  with  laurel-fringed  lakes  and  the 
haunts  of  many  deer  and  bears.  Southwest  of  this  unpeopled  land  lie  the  labyrinthine 
mountains  of  the  anthracite  region,  Broad  and  Beaver  Meadow  and  Nescopec,  with  the 
lovely  Wyoming,  Mahanoy  and  Catawissa  Valleys,  rosy  with  rhododendrons,  and  enwalled 

by  dark  wooded  ridges.  The  Valley  of  Wyoming 
is  a  rich  alluvial  plain,  20  miles  long  by  three  miles 
wide,  enclosed  by  an  ellipse  of  mountains,  and 
entered  on  the  north  through  Lackawannock  Gap, 
and  on  the  south  through  Nanticoke  Gap.  Next 
comes  the  exquisite  Susquehanna  Valley,  a  hundred 
ri  miles  long,  now  opening  out  for  a  score  of  miles, 
and  again  narrowed  to  half  that  width  by  cultivated 
and  rounded  slaty  hills.  Elsewhere  in  the  high- 
PHILADELPHIA  :  FAiRwouNT  WATER-WORKS.  lands  of  Middle  Pennsylvania  occurs  a  succession 
of  singular  level  valleys  of  limestone,  surrounded  by  rocky  mountains,  and  populated  by 
thousands  of  well-to-do  farmers.  The  unusual  fertility  of  these  glens  brings  forth  wheat, 
corn  and  rye  in  great  quantities,  and  their  smiling  fields  are  interspersed  with  dark-hued 
orchards  and  groves,  and  underlaid  with  labyrinthine  caverns.  Prof.  Lesley  says  of  this 
region:  " Nowhere  else  on  earth  is  its  counterpart  for  the  richness  and  definiteness  of 
geographical  detail.  It  is  the  very  home  of  the  picturesque  in  science  as  in  scenery.  Its 
landscapes  on  the  Susquehanna,  on  the  Juniata,  and  Potomac  are  unrivalled  of  their  kind 
in  the  world."  The  entire  Appalachian  country  is  famous  for  these  long  valleys,  which  lie 
between  its  rampart  ridges,  like  the  Tuscarora  Valley,  stretching  narrowly  along  for  50 
miles,  with  wooded  highlands  overhang- 
ing it  on  either  side  ;  the  famous  Kisha- 
coquillas  Valley,  four  miles  wide,  running 
50  miles  northward,  between  Jack's 
Mountain  and  the  Blue  Ridge,  to  the 
lonely  Seven  Mountains,  beyond  Mil- 
roy,  inhabited  by  German  Awmish  and 
Scotch-Irish  Presbyterians ;  the  Juniata 
and  Great  Aughwick  Valley,  a  hundred 
miles  long,  from  Middleburg  to  Mary-  PHILADELPHIA  :  FIRST  REGIMENT  ARMORY. 


HARRISBURG  :     EXECUTIVE    MANSION. 


718  KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

land,  between  Shade  Mountain  and  Jack's  Mountain  ;  Stone  Valley,  enshrining  in  its  cool 
depths  Warrior's  Ridge  and  the  picturesque  Raystown  Juniata  ;  and  the  Bald-Eagle  Valley, 
1 60  miles  long,  from  Muncy  to  Maryland,  varying  in  width,  from  four  to  ten  miles,  and  with 
the  unbroken  Allegheny  ridge  overlooking  its  many  silvery 
streams.     Path  Valley  lies  east  of  the  Tuscarora  Mountains 
for  22  miles,  and  Amberson's  Valley  opens  into  it.     McCon- 
nell's  Cove,  Friends'  Cove,  and  many  other  picturesque  glens 
are  hidden  among  the  great  wooded  ridges  of  the  Alleghenies. 
The  long  Cumberland  Valley,    running  south  between  Blue 
Mountain  and   South  Mountain,  is  famous  for  its  rich  and 
tranquil  beauty.     The  region  of  "the  blue  Juniata"  is  full  of 
beauty  and  diversity,  with  its  Long  Narrows,  between  Shade 
Mountain  and  the  Blue  Ridge;  and  has  several  paradise-like 
tributary  glens.      Beyond  the  Sinking- Spring  Valley,  Canoe 
Valley  runs  south  into  Morrison's  Cove,  settled  in  1755   by 
German    Dunkards,   non-resistants   from   principle.       When 
the  Indians  burst  into  the  valley,  20  years  later,    these  gentle  fatalists  bowed  their  heads  to 
the  tomahawks,  saying,    "God's  will  be  done,"  and  so  died.     Nippenose  Valley  is  a  deep 
oval  limestone  basin,  ten  miles  long,  rich  in  farms,  with  the  neighboring  Muncy,  West- 
Branch   and  White-Deer-Hole  Valleys,  opening  into  the  wooded  highlands.     The  Nittany 
Valley  extends  for  1 10  miles,  with  Bald-Eagle  Mountain  as  its  strong  eastern  wall,  a  fertile 
trough  in  the  wilderness  of  hills,  with  the  tributary  glens  of  Brush  Valley  and  Penn  Valley, 
among  the  Seven  Mountains,  and  Sinking- Spring  Valley, 
whose  hidden  streams  appear  through  the  broken  cavern- 
roofs,  and  Morrison's  Cove,  along  the  Little  Juniata.    The 
excisions  of  unknown  thousands  of  years  have  carved  this 
vast   Allegheny   plateau   into   many   strange   forms,    like 
whales'  backs,   overturned  ships,   sharp   sandstone  peaks 
and  cliffs,  and  long  and  regular  terraces.   It  is  a  picturesque 
country,  bearing  a  likeness  to  the   Swiss  Juras,  with  long 
parallel  ridges,  curving  together  at  the  ends  of  trough-like 
valleys,  or  ending  abruptly  in  the  midst  of  the  narrow  plains. 

The  northern  and  western  counties,  on  the  broad  uplands  of  the  Alleghenies,  sloping 
mainly  toward  the  Great  Lakes  and  the  Mississippi,  are  occupied  by  1,500,000  people. 
The  world-renowned  oil-regions  are  here,  and  the  deposits  of  bituminous  coal,  and  many  of 
the  great  iron  and  glass  works.     The  long  walls  of  Negro  Mountain,  Laurel  Hill,  and  the 
continuous  Laurel  and  Chestnut  Ridges  rise  west  of  the  Alleghenies,  2, 500  feet  high,  and 
running  southwest  into  Maryland  and  Virginia.     Half  of  the  State  lies  in  this  area,  which 
•  -—;------„.  extends  156  miles  from  north  to  south,  with  a  breadth  of 

175  miles  on  the  New- York  line,  and  80  miles  on  the 
West-Virginia  line.  The  wild  Ligonier  Valley  runs  down 
for  70  miles  between  the  parallel  walls  of  Laurel  Hill  and 
Chestnut  Ridge,  which  are  everywhere  ten  miles  apart. 
In  this  section  are  the  Glades  of  Somerset,  settled  by 
German  Awmish  and  Dunkards;  and  the  striking  scenery 
of  the  Conemaugh  and  Turkey-Foot  hills  ;  and  the  Ohio- 
Pile  Falls,  on  the  Youghiogheny  River.  There  are  no 
highlands  west  of  Chestnut  Ridge  until  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains are  reached. 

The  Delaware  River  forms  the  eastern  boundary  of 
Pennsylvania,  flowing  320  miles  from  its  source  in  the 
*AUCH  CHUNK  AND  MOUNT  pisQAH.         Catskill  Mountains,  down  to  Delaware  Bay.    The  Dela- 


PHILADELPHIA  :    CUSTOM    HOUSE. 


THE  STATE   OF  PENNSYLVANIA. 


719 


CRESSON    SPRINGS,    ON    THE   ALLEGHENY    MOUNTAINS. 


ware  Water  Gap  is  the  passage  cut  by  the  river 
through  the  Kittatinny  Mountain,  whose  sharp 
craggy  peaks,  Minsi  and  Tammany,  rise  1, 600 
feet  on  either  side,  forming  a  remarkable  gorge, 
through  which  the  river  winds,  60  feet  deep- 
There  are  great  summer-hotels  above  the  gap  ; 
and  the  region  is  rich  in  water-falls,  springs, 
cliffs  and  peaks.  Twenty-eight  miles  southwest 
opens  the  Wind  Gap,  a  remarkable  pass  in  the 
Blue  Mountain,  and  farther  away  the  water-gaps 
of  the  Schuylkill,  Swatara  and  Susquehanna  cut  deep  down  through  the  wall-like  Kitta- 
tinny Mountain,  which  crosses  the  State  for  180  miles.  North  of  the  Delaware  Water  Gap, 
the  beautiful  and  historic  valley  that  the  Indians  called  the  Minisink  extends  along  the  river 
for  40  miles,  by  Bushkill,  Dingman's  Ferry  and  Milford,  to  Port  Jervis.  The  tides  flow  up 
to  Trenton,  by  the  head  of  ship  navigation,  at  Philadelphia.  Steamboats  ascend  the  stream 
as  far  as  Trenton,  132  miles,  and  smaller  steamers  have  reached  Easton.  The  Lehigh  and 
Schuylkill,  both  tributaries  of  the  Delaware,  have  canal  and  lock  navigation.  At  the  Le- 
high Water  Gap  the  river  traverses  a  deep  wooded  gorge  through  the  Kittatinny  Mountain, 
in  a  broad,  swift  flood,  leaving  barely  room  for  the  railway,  highway  and  canal.  A  little 
way  to  the  north,  the  picturesque  hamlet  of  Mauch  Chunk  clings  to  the  sides  of  the  moun- 
tains, up  which  adventurous  railways  are  laid. 

The  Susquehanna  River  issues  from  Otsego  Lake,  and  flows  across  Pennsylvania  to  the 
head  of  Chesapeake  Bay,  a  distance  of  400  miles.  This  noble 
stream  is  sometimes  called  the  North  Branch,  down  as  far  as 
Northumberland,  where  it  is  joined  by  the  West  Branch,  flow- 
ing down  200  miles  from  the  Allegheny  Mountains.  From 
this  confluence  it  is  153  miles  to  the  mouth  of  the  river,  where 
it  paurs,  a  full  mile  wide,  into  the  bay  at  Havre  de  Grace. 
The  Susquehanna  cannot  be  navigated  by  steamboats,  on 
account  of  its  shallowness  and  swiftness,  but  vast  quantities  of 
lumber  are  rafted  down  its  broad  reaches ;  and  along  the  val- 
ley run  coal-bearing  canals  and  first-class  railways.  The 
Juniata  is  a  tributary,  with  canals  and  lock  navigation ;  and 
BEDFORD  SPRINGS.  flows  down  from  the  Alleghenies  for  150  miles,  amid  scenery 

of  enchanting  beauty.  The  Lackawanna  River  winds  downward  through  the  incomparable 
Valley  of  Wyoming,  and  enters  the  Susquehanna  near  Pittston.  The  Allegheny  River,  250 
miles  long,  and  the  Monongahela  River,  from  West  Virginia,  250  miles  long  (with  80  miles 
in  Pennsylvania),  are  navigable  for  60  miles  each,  partly  by  slackwater.  At  their  confluence, 
the  great  Ohio  River  begins,  giving  steamboat  communication  during  eight  months  of  the 
year  with  the  remotest  West  and  Southwest.  The  navigable  depth  of  the  Ohio  is  pre- 
served partly  by  the  aid  of  the  Davis-Island  Dam,  built  by  the  United  States  in  1878-85, 
at  a  cost  of  $1,000,000,  with  300  small  movable  dams,  lying  flat  on  the  river-bed  when 
there  is  plenty  of  water,  and  at  other  times  lifted  up  so  as  to  deepen  the  channel  and  raise 
the  up-stream  level.  Turning  from  this  region  to  the  northwestern  angle  of  the  State,  we 
can  look  out  over  Lake  Erie  from  a  coast-line  of  45  miles,  indented  by  the  excellent  harbor 
of  Erie.  This  coast  is  the  front  of  the  singular  Erie  Tri- 
angle of  202,000  acres,  pushing  up  into  New  York.  Mas- 
sachusetts, Connecticut  and  New  York  claimed  the  Tri- 
angle, but  each  of  them  ceded  its  rights  to  the  General 
Government,  which  sold  it  in  1788  to  Pennsylvania,  then 
desirous  of  getting  a  front  on  the  lake.  The  payment 
was  made  in  worthless  Continental  money.  PHILADELPHIA  :  RIDGWAY  LIBRARY. 


720 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


ALLEGRIPPUS    CURVE. 


Amid  the  highlands  occur  many  episodes  of  scenic  interest, 
like  Crystal  Cave,  in  Berks  County,  near  Kutztown  ;  the  great 
caverns  of  Kishacoquillas  Valley ;  Arch  Spring  and  Cave,  in 
Sinking- Spring  Valley;  the  Great  Bear  Cave,  in  Chestnut 
Ridge  ;  the  Pack-saddle  Narrows  of  the  Conemaugh ;  the  Pul- 
pit Rocks,  near  Hollidaysburg ;  and  many  others.  The 
mountain-lands  abound  in  pleasant  summer-resorts,  with  many 
comfortable  hotels,  frequented  during  the  season  by  thousands 
of  people.  The  foremost  of  the  highland  resorts  is  Cresson, 
2,000  feet  above  the  sea,  where  the  Pennsylvania  Railroad 
crosses  the  crest  of  the  Allegheny  Mountains,  amid  vast  hem- 
lock and  beech  woods.  In  the  beautiful  environs  of  Phila- 
delphia are  several  other  well-known  summer- resorts,  like  the  Wissahickon  Inn,  among  the 
legend-haunted  glens  about  Chestnut  Hill ;  the  great  Devon  Inn,  600  feet  above  the  sea, 
and  overlooking  the  rich  Chester  Valley ;  the  Bryn-Mawr  Hotel,  in  one  of  the  fairest  of 
suburbs ;  the  Bellevue,  at  Wayne  ;  and  Beechwood,  near  Jenkintown.  The  State  also  pos- 
sesses many  well-known  mineral  springs,  serving  as  fountains  of  healing  for  many  maladies. 
Among  these  are  the  Katalysine  Springs,  at  Gettysburg,  an  alkaline  water  like  that  of 
Vichy ;  York  Sulphur  Springs,  much  visited  by  Baltimoreans  in  the  first  half  of  this  cen- 
tury; Carlisle  Springs,  with  sulphur  waters,  at  the  base  of  the  Blue 
Mountain ;  Perry  Warm  Springs,  with  chalybeate  waters  at  70°,  flowing 
from  Quaker  Hill ;  Doubling-Gap  Springs  (sulphur  and  chalybeate)  in  a 
picturesque  loop  of  the  Blue  Mountain,  near  the  Cumberland  Valley ; 
Mount- Holly  Springs  (sulphur),  near  Carlisle  and 
the  Great  Valley ;  Fayette  Springs  (chalybeate),  near 
Laurel  Hill ;  Frankfort  Springs,  in  Beaver  County ; 
Bedford  Springs  (chalybeate),  a  famous  old  resort 
among  the  Alleghenies,  opened  in  1806;  Minnequa 
Springs  (sulphur),  in  the  Towanda  Valley ;  Litiz 
Springs,  in  the  Moravian  country;  Ephrata-Moun- 

COUNTY  COURT-HOUSE.  ta{n  Springs,  on  the  highlands  above  Ephrata ;  Wild- 

wood  (iron  and  sulphur),  on  the  Allegheny  Mountains,  near  Cresson ;  and  Kiskiminetas, 
on  the  Conemaugh.  Only  a  few  of  these  are  now  resorted  to,  the  foremost  and  favorite  be- 
ing Bedford  Springs,  which  has  pleasant  accommodations,  and  oftentimes  brilliant  seasons. 
Agriculture  employs  300,000  Pennsylvanians,  to  1,200,000  otherwise  engaged.  There 
are  over  200,000  farms,  averaging  nearly  100  acres  each,  valued  at  $1,200,000,000, 
and  producing  yearly  above  $200,000,000  in  crops.  Among  their  great  harvests  are 
42,000,000  bushels  of  corn,  35,000,000  bushels  of  oats,  and  17,000,000  bushels  of  wheat, 
yearly.  This  is  the  first  State  in  producing  rye,  with  5,000,000  bushels  a  year  ;  the 
second  in  buckwheat,  with  4,000,000  bushels;  the  third  in  pota-  <p  toes,  with 
16,000,000  bushels ;  and  the  fourth  in  hay,  with  3,000,000  tons.  Over  J|L  24,000,000 
pounds  of  seed-leaf  tobacco  are  raised  here,  much  of  it  coming  from  ,Wm.i  the  rich 
York  and  Lancaster  plains.  This  tobacco  is  from  Havana 
seed,  dark  and  aromatic,  elastic  and  gummy,  and  much 
used  for  cigar- wrappers.  Chester  is  famous  for  its  nurseries. 
The  southeastern  counties  are  rich  in  fertile  loam,  much 
of  it  based  on  limestone  ;  and  the  remoter  inland  valleys 
afford  the  best  of  farming  lands.  The  mountains  have  a 
thin  and  cold  soil,  of  little  value  for  agriculture.  The  live- 
stock exceeds  5,000,000  head  — 1,800,000  being  cattle, 
1,800,000  sheep,  1,000,000  swine,  and  500,000  horses. 
The  dairy  products  are  of  immense  value.  READING  :  POST-OFFICE. 


PITTSBURGH 


THE  STATE   OF  PENNSYLVANIA. 


721 


LEWISBURG. 


WILLIAMSPORT  :     POST-OFFICE. 


The  Climate  of  Pennsylvania  varies  widely, 
from  the  deep  and  long-abiding  snows  and  in- 
tense cold  of  the  Allegheny  winters  to  the  genial 
equability  of  the  southern  counties  and  the  high 
temperature  of  the  southeast  and  the  Ohio  Valley, 
where  the  thermometer  often  marks  100°.  The 
transition  sometimes  reaches  40°  in  a  day,  espec- 
ially in  the  central  valleys,  which  are  remarkable 
for  their  hot  summers  and  frigid  winters.  A  bland  and  temperate  climate  characterizes  the 
Lake-Erie  country.  The  rainfall  varies  from  36  inches  in  the 
west  to  48  inches  in  the  southeast.  During  the  time 
when  the  ice  is  thawing,  or  after  prolonged  rains,  the  valleys 
of  the  great  rivers  are  often  visited  by  grievous  disasters, 
when  vast  floods  pouring  from  the  mountains  sweep  over 
the  narrow  plains.  The  Delaware,  Lehigh,  Susquehanna, 
and  Juniata  have  often  wrought  great  damage  in  this 
manner.  The  mournful  catastrophe  at  Johnstown,  in 
1889,  when  the  Conemaugh  River,  swelled  by  a  burst- 
ing dam,  swept  away  the  city,  and  destroyed  thousands 
of  lives,  will  never  be  forgotten. 

The  ancient  forests  have  nearly  vanished  before  the 

settler's  axe,  the  charcoal-burners,  and  the  makers  of  rail- 
road-ties, derricks,  and  timbers  for  mines.  Great  fires  from 
time  to  time  sweep  over  the  forest  counties,  to  be  followed 
by  leagues  of  stunted  brushwood.  The  hemlock  woods  of 
Clearfield,  Cambria,  and  Sullivan,  "the  Shades  of  Death" 
on  the  Lehigh,  and  the  Allegheny  white  pines  have  all 
been  of  great  value  in  the  economic  development  of  the 
State,  and  still  produce  immense  quantities  of  lumber.  The 
lumber  product  of  Clinton  County  alone  has  reached 
nearly  3,000,000,000  feet,  valued  at  over  $40,000,000.  In 
these  woodlands  bears  and  deer,  panthers  and  wildcats, 
PITTSBURGH  :  POST-OFFICE.  wolves  and  foxes,  raccoons  and  otters,  may  still  be  found. 

Minerals.  —  Pennsylvania  leads  the  Union  in  manufacturing  iron,  producing  as  much 
as  all  the  other  States  combined.  She  is  richer  in  ore  than  most  others,  and  her  people 
have  developed  this  industry  with  wonderful  ability  and  ingenuity  ever  since  1688,  when 
William  Penn  operated  a  blast-furnace  on  the  Delaware  River.  The  first  forge  went  into 
operation  in  1720,  at  Coventry,  Chester  County;  and  by  the  time  of  the  Revolution  the 
State  had  numerous  active  iron-furnaces,  whose  products 
were  in  great  demand  just  then.  The  first  puddling  and 
rolling  mill  in  America  began  operations  at  Plumsock, 
Fayette  County,  in  1817.  The  product  of  pig-iron  in  the 
United  States  has  passed  that  of  Great  Britain,  and  now 
amounts  to  9,580,000  tons  a  year  (1890),  as  against 
3,780,000  tons  in  1880.  In  the  year  ending  June  30,  1890, 
Pennsylvania  made  1,842,193  tons  of  iron  in  her  anthracite 
furnaces,  2,847,302  tons  in  coke  and  bituminous-coal  fur- 
naces, and  17,886  tons  of  charcoal  iron.  Among  her  yearly 
products  are  800,000  tons  of  Bessemer  steel  rails,  40,- 
ooo  tons  of  iron  rails,  and  136,000  tons  of  steel  ingots. 
The  Cornwall  hills  are  composed  of  and  underlaid  with 
magnetic  iron  ore,  forming  one  of  the  most  wonderful 


PITTSBURGH  !    DUQUESNE  CLUB, 


722 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE   UNITED   STATES. 


PHILADELPHIA  \    SINGERLY   BUILDING. 


deposits  in  the  world.  Nearly  9,000,000  tons  of  ore  have  been  quarried  here  since  1740, 
and  thrice  that  amount  remains,  besides  the  incalculable  deposits  below  them.  The  cold- 
short and  red-short  shot  and  ball  and  pipe  ore,  of  the  finest  brown  hematite,  is  found  in 

great  open  quarry-mines  in  the  central  valleys,  and  trans- 
ported by  rail  to  the  works,  in  the  bituminous  coal-region 
beyond  the  Alleghenies,  and  along  the  Lehigh  and  Schuyl- 
kill  Valleys,  where  also  large  amounts  of  imported  ores  are 
used. 

In  its  vast  stores  of  anthracite  coal  Pennsylvania  has  a 
notable  advantage  over  other  States.  Over  40, 000,000  short 
tons  a  year  are  shipped  from  the  mines,  in  egg,  stove,  chest- 
nut, pea  and  buckwheat  sizes,  and  red-ash  and  white-ash 
varieties.  There  are  three  groups  of  parallel  valleys  in 
which  the  crumpled  coal-measures  appear.  The  Northern 
(or  Wyoming  and  Lackawanna)  field,  with  150  collieries, 
and  an  annual  output  of  24,000,000  tons,  is  a  crescent  trough, 
50  miles  by  six  in  area,  with  thirty  coal-basins.  The  middle 
(or  Lehigh  and  Mahanoy)  field,  with  125  collieries  and  an  output  of  14,000,000  tons,  in- 
cludes the  Lehigh  and  Beaver-Meadow  plateaus,  nearly  2,000  feet  high,  with  steep  rail- 
roads descending  to  the  Delaware  Valley.  The  Southern  coal-field  has  40  collieries,  with 
an  output  of  4,000,000  tons,  and  occupies  the  region  between  the 
Lehigh  and  Susquehanna,  included  between  mountain-ranges,  and 
traversed  by  the  Schuylkill  and  Swatara  Rivers.  The  choice  Lykens- 
Valley  coal  comes  from  this  region.  The  supplies  of  anthracite 
have  hardly  been  touched,  yet,  and  it  is  estimated  that  the  known 
deposits  in  Pennsylvania  will  last  for  centuries,  This  is  the 
best  coal  for  domestic  purposes  in  the  world.  Between  1820 
and  1877  tne  Pennsylvania  fields  shipped  628,000,000  tons  of 
coal,  the  Wyoming  district  having  held  the  lead  since  1868. 
The  anthracite-coal  mines  are  divided  into  seven  districts  :  Scran- 
ton,  producing  8,500,000  tons  a  year;  Pittston,  5,000,000; 
MASONIC  TEMPLE.  Wilkes-Barre,  7,500,000;  Hazel  ton,  4,000,000;  Shenandoah, 
5,400,000;  Ashland,  4,700,000;  and  Pottsville,  2,300,000.  The  mine-cars  are  run  to  the 
tops  of  huge  buildings  called  "breakers,"  100  feet  high  and  filled  with  toothed  rollers,  by 
which  the  coal  is  broken  up.  The  various  sizes  are  separated  by  bolting  screens ;  boys  pick 
out  the  slate ;  and  the  assorted  coal  descends  by  shoots  into  railway  trains.  The  mining 
operations  are  attended  with  peril,  and  in  a  single  year  832  men  have  been  killed  or 
maimed. 

The  bituminous  coal-fields  run  in  six  parallel  valleys  from  New  York  to  Ohio  and  West 
Virginia,  in  the  third  of  the  State  west  of  the  declivity  of  the  Alleghenies,  covering  12,245 
square  miles  with  their  flat  beds,  which  have  been  estimated  to  contain  33,500,000,000 
tons.     A  third  of  this  is  in  the  Pittsburgh  bed, 
where  220  collieries  now  get  out  9,000,000  tons  a 
year,  along  the   Ohio,  Monongahela  and  Youghio- 
gheny   Rivers.     The   State  authorities  divide  the 
bituminous  field  into  eight  districts :    Monongahela 
City,  producing    1,500,000    tons    yearly;    Irwin, 
5,400,000;  Mercer,    2,100,000;  Towanda,  4,200,- 
ooo;  Connellsville,  4,600,000;  Johnstown,  3,300,- 
ooo;  Idlewood,  4,000,000;  and  Phillipsburg,  4,800,- 
ooo.     The  Monongahela  Valley  for  60  miles  north 
of  the  West-Virginia  line  abounds  in  thick  veins. 


PHILADELPHIA  : 


PHILADELPHIA  : 
HORTICULTURAL   HALL,    AND   ACADEMY   OF   MUSIC. 


THE  STATE   OF  PENNSYLVANIA. 

The  Berwind- White  Coal-Mining  Com- 
pany was  incorporated  in  1886,  as  the  suc- 
cessors of  Berwind,  White  &  Co.,  a  coal- 
producing  firm  organized  in  1874,  from  the 
still  older  firms  of  Berwind  &  Bradley  and 
White  &  Lingle.  The  capital  stock  is 
$2,000,000,  and  its  officers  are  Edward  J. 
Berwind,  president ;  John  E.  Berwind,  vice- 
president  ;  H.  A.  Berwind,  secretary ;  and 
F.  McOwen,  treasurer.  The  company 

owns  and  operates  extensive  coal-mines  in  the  Clearfield  region, 
mining  what  is  known  in  the  market  as  the  "celebrated  Eureka 
bituminous  coal. "  They  operate  29  collieries  ;  22  at  and  around 
Houtzdale,  two  at  Karthaus,  and  five  at  Horatio.  The  collieries  have 
a  capacity  of  upwards  of  12,000  tons  per  day.  The  tonnage  of  the 
company  for  1889  aggregated  over  2,500,000  tons.  The  works  of 
the  company  are  among  the  best-equipped  in  the  bituminous-coal 
region,  supplied  with  modern  machinery  calculated  to  expedite  and 
economize  the  production  of  coal,  as  well  as  to  insure  its  reaching 
the  market  in  first-class  condition.  The  company  also  own  and  op-  IN(  INE  ™  ADING^"^  *"" 
erate  150  coke-ovens,  turning  out  a  very  superior  grade  of  coke,  which  PHILADELPHIA  :  BERWIND- 
finds  a  ready  market  among  manufacturers  and  steel-workers.  They  WHITE  COAL-MINING  co- 
own  1,250  coal-cars,  and  a  fleet  of  50  coal-barges,  used  exclusively  for  the  delivery  of  coal 
to  ocean-steamships  in  New- York  harbor.  The  coal  is  a  first-class  steam-coal.  Among 
its  users  are  the  Inman,  North  German  Lloyd,  Cunard,  Hamburg  and  French  lines, 
whose  ocean  greyhounds  have  a  world-wide  reputation.  It  is  likewise  largely  used  for  roll- 
ing-mills, iron-works,  forges,  glass-works,  and  lime-kilns,  in  the  burning  of  brick  and  fire- 
brick, and  for  kindred  purposes.  •  The  mines  are  located  on  the  Pennsylvania  Railroad,  over 
which  they  ship  to  tide-water  for  shipments  coastwise  and  foreign,  and  to  New  York  and 
the  New-England  States  and  Canada.  Its  shipping  piers  are  located  at  Greenwich  Point, 
Philadelphia  ;  Harsimus,  Jersey  City,  New-York  Harbor  ;  and  Canton  Piers,  Baltimore.  Its 
offices  are  in  the  Bullitt  Building,  Philadelphia;  55  Broadway,  New  York  ;  19  Congress 
Street,  Boston  ;  and  the  Rialto  Building,  Baltimore.,  The  Berwind- White  is  the  largest 
strictly  coal  company  in  America,  employing  5,000  men,  with  a  yearly  output  of  $8,000,000. 
The  gas-coal  region  consists  of  a  basin  20  miles  long  and  eight  wide,  at  its  widest  point, 

starting  on  the  Youghiogheny  River  and  running 
northeasterly  nearly  to  the  Conemaugh  River. 
The  Pennsylvania  Railroad  crosses  about  its 
centre,  and  the  Baltimore  &  Ohio  Railroad  taps 
its  southwestern  side.  A  large  number  of  de- 
tached pieces  of  coal  lie  to  the  westward,  between 
the  Monongahela  and  Allegheny  Rivers.  Owing 
to  the  broken  nature  of  the  seam,  the  mining 
there  is  very  difficult,  while  in  the  main  basin  the 
uniformity  of  the  deposit  renders  the  coal  much 
more  dependable.  Its  quality  is  better  on  the 
western  side  than  on  the  eastern,  being  freer  from 
M.N.NG  COAL.  WESTMORELAND  COAL  COMPANY.  suiphur  and  ash.  A  small  basin  lies  northeast 
of  the  main  basin,  near  Saltsburg,  the  coal  containing  a  large  amount  of  sulphur  and  many 
slate  partings.  In  the  south  of  the  main  basin  the  coal  is  characterized  by  increase  in  sul- 
phur, and  is  more  friable  than  that  mined  on  the  western  side.  An  immense  body  of  inferior 
Pittsburgh  coal  lies  west  of  the  Youghiogheny  and  Monongahela,  and  is  mined  for  shipment 


724 


WESTMORELAND  COAL  COMPANY. 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED  STATES. 

by  water,  to  the  Ohio  and  lower  Mississippi.  The 
Westmoreland  Coal  Company,  incorporated  in 
1854,  shipped  the  first  gas-coal  ever  sent  from  the 
Pittsburgh  region  to  the  Atlantic  coast.  Hitherto, 
the  gas  companies  on  the  seaboard  had  been  sup- 
plied from  England,  but  from  the  moment  the 
Westmoreland  coal  commenced  to  compete,  such 
was  its  superiority  in  quality,  that  the  use  of  the 
imported  article  diminished  and  in  a  few  years 
ceased.  The  pioneer  company  has  never  lost  its 
supremacy,  and  to-day  is  far  ahead  of  all  Ameri- 
can competitors  in  extent  of  acreage  of  coal,  in 
value  and  perfection  of  equipment,  in  its  method  of 
mining,  and  in  the  character  of  its  output.  The 
introduction  in  late  years  of  gas-producers,  and 
the  general  desire  of  manufacturers  to  secure  a 
coal  of  high  heating  power,  coupled  with  freedom 
from  sulphur  and  phosphorus,  has  greatly  increased 
the  business  of  this  company.  There  is  scarcely 
a  place  in  the  Eastern  United  States,  Canada  or 
the  West  Indies  where  the  Westmoreland  Coal 
Company's  product  is  not  well  and  favorably 
known. 
Coke  was  made  in  America  73  years  ago,  and  is  now  a  more  or  less  important  product 

of  1 8  States.     The  largest  amount  and  the  finest  quality  comes  from  the  famous  Connells- 

ville  region  of  Pennsylvania,  whose  output  represents  three  fourths  of  the  American  pro- 
duction.    It  has  built  up  the  enormous  pig-iron  industry  west  of  the  Allegheny  Mountains. 

The  use  of  coke  in  making  pig-iron  began  in  England  in 

1735,  but  over  a  century  passed  before  it  awakened  any 

interest  among  American  iron-masters.      In  1871  Frick  & 

Co.  built  50  ovens,  and  added  150  more  in  1872.     Henry  C. 

Frick  has  been  the  leading  spirit  in  developing  and  con- 
solidating the  coke  manufacture,  and  providing  railways 

for  the  transportation  of  its  output,  and  is  to-day  the  ac- 
knowledged head  of  the  coke  industry.     The  H.  C.  Frick 

Coke  Company  was  formed  in  1882,  and  has  a  capital  of 

$5,000,000,  owning  and  controlling  35,000  acres 

of  coal-land,  10,000  ovens,  35  miles  of  railway 

(with  2, 700  cars  and  23  locomotives),  72  pairs  of 

stationary  engines,  and  172  steam  boilers.     The 

company  employs  u,ooo  men.     This  makes  the 

foremost  coke-producing  concern  in  the  world. 

There  are  three  great  breakers,  where  the  coke 

is  crushed  into  a  variety  of   sizes,  and  shipped 

away  for  domestic  uses,  forging  and 

manufacturing.   The  83  mines  supply 

16,000    bee-hive     fire-brick    ovens, 

twelve  feet  in  diameter,  and  6£  feet 

high,  in  which  the  coal  is  burned  into 

a  porous  and  tenacious  silvery-lustred 

coke,  with  90  per  cent,  of  carbon.   The 

yearly  product  is  7,000,000  tons. 


CONNELLSVILLE  COKE  REGIONS 


COKE-MAKING    BY   THE 
H.    C.    FRICK   COKE   COMPANY. 


THE  STATE  OF  PENNSYLVANIA. 

From  the  earliest  times  the  Seneca  Indians  applied 
petroleum  externally  to  heal  wounds  and  sprains  on  men 
and  animals,  and  Seneca  oil  became  a  favorite  medicine 
with  the  early  white  settlers.  When  whale-oil  and 
vegetable  oils  grew  scarce  and  high,  efforts  were  made 
to  extract  oil  from  coal  and  shale,  for  illuminating  pur- 
poses. The  development  of  the  American  petroleum 
industry  dates  from  the  report  of  Prof.  B.  Silliman,  Jr. , 
of  Yale,  on  the  oil  sent  him  from  the  springs  near  Titus- 
ville.  The  Seneca  Oil  Company  was  organized  at  New  " — ; 
Haven,  and  in  1857  sent  E.  L.  Drake  to  drill  a  well  in  PHILADELPHIA  :  MARY  j.  DREXEL  HOME. 
this  region.  The  success  of  the  enterprise  (in  1859)  resulted  in  the  development  of  a  colos- 
sal new  business.  There  have  been  over  25,000  producing  wells  in  operation  at  one  time ; 
and  for  three  years  on  a  stretch  the  average  daily  product  has  exceeded  7 5,000  barrels.  The 
yearly  consumption  has  risen  from  10,000,000  barrels  in  1876  to  nearly  30,000,000  barrels, 
and  is  still  increasing.  Three  fifths  of  this  is  exported.  The  accumulations  of  crude  pe- 
troleum in  tanks  reached  40,000,000  barrels'in  1885,  but  there  is  only  about  half  that  quan- 
tity now.  The  Bradford  oil  field  has  produced  150,000,000  barrels.  The  Titusville  field 
has  yielded  about  60,000,000  barrels;  and  Butler  and  Clarion  Counties,  70,000,000.  Pe- 
troleum has  been  sold  as  low  as  five  cents  a  barrel,  and  is  the  plaything  of  speculators  and 

monopolies.  The  oil-districts  cover  369  square 
miles,  and  the  petroleum  comes  from  deep-lying 
strata  of  sand  and  sand-rock.  The  supply  is  visi- 
bly declining.  Latterly  the  oil-country  has  been 
moving  southward,  with  the  development  of  the 
Washington  and  Eureka  fields,  and  Pittsburgh  for 
a  time  was  the  centre  of  the  business,  many  of  the 
older  oil-towns  being  entirely  deserted.  At  first, 

PHILADELPHIA  :  EPISCOPAL  HOSPITAL.  the  petroleum  was  hauled  from  the  wells  four  miles 

to  Oil  Creek,  and  floated  on  rafts  or  flat-boats  down  to  Oil  City,  where  steamboats 
awaited  it.  There  were  a  thousand  flat-boats  and  30  steamers  engaged  in  the  business.  The 
wooden  tank-cars  of  1865,  and  the  5,ooo-gallon  boiler-iron  tank-cars  of  1870,  were  intro- 
duced by  the  railroads.  The  pipe-lines  began  in  1865;  from  Pithole  to  Miller's  farm ;  and 
now  include  the  Seaboard,  from  Olean  to  Saddle  River,  N.  J.,  300  miles  ;  the  Pennsylvania, 
from  Colegrove  to  Philadelphia,  280  miles ;  the  Cleveland,  from  Milliards,  100  miles ; 
the  Buffalo,  from  Four  Mile,  70  miles;  the  Baltimore,  from  Midway,  70  miles ;  and  the 
famous  Tidewater  Line,  to  Bayonne,  N.  J.  These  lines  consist  of  wrought-iron  pipes,  laid 
two  feet  underground,  and  running  straight  away  across  the  country,  up  hill  and  down, 
through  villages  and  cities,  and  under  rivers  (as  a  branch  of  the  Seaboard  line  runs  under 
the  Hudson  and  East  Rivers  and  through  Central  Park  to  the  refineries  at  Hunter's  Point). 
There  are  4,000  miles  of  pipes  in  the  oil-regions,  also.  In  the  valleys  along  the  greater  lines 
are  pumping-stations,  each  with  seven 
men,  and  powerful  pumping-engines 
working  day  and  night  and  sending  the 
oil  forward  in  an  uninterrupted  stream. 
At  Friedensville  are  famous  zinc- 
mines,  opened  in  1853,  and  producing 
$400,000  worth  yearly,  which  is  manu- 
factured at  South  Bethlehem  into  zinc 
white,  sheet  zinc  and  spelter.  On  the 
Juniata  occur  vast  beds  of  hard  white 
silicious  sandstone,  20,000  tons  of  which 


HAZELTON  :   MINERS'  HOSPITAL. 


726 


HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED  STATES. 


are  taken  out  yearly,  for  glass-making.  The  quarries  at  Slatington,  near  the  Lehigh, 
employ  600  men,  and  export  vast  quantities  of  the  finest  blue-black  slate,  of  pure  clay,  for 
billiard-tables  and  mantels,  blackboards  and  slates,  flooring  and  roofing.  These  are  the  fore- 
most quarries  of  American  slate ;  and  York  and  Lancaster  Counties  also  have  large  inter- 
ests in  this  industry. 

Marble  of  many  varieties,  from  black  to  white,  is  found  in  the  Great  Valley,  in  Chester 
County,  and  has  been  quarried  in  immense  quantities  in  Montgomery  County.  The  gray 
marble  of  Swatara  is  of  marked  beauty.  Serpentine,  or  greenstone,  largely  used  in  fine  build- 
ings, is  quarried  at  Birming-  f v  ham,  and  elsewhere  in 


ties.  The  State  is  sin- 
like  the  mineral  paint 
Schuylkill;  fire-clay  of 


PHILADELPHIA  : 
PENNSYLVANIA  HOSPITAL  AND  INSANE  HOSPITALS. 


Chester  and  Delaware  Coun- 
gularly  rich  in  other  minerals, 
of  Parry ville;  steatite  of 
Clearfield,  Farrandsville  and 
Lock  Haven ;  flag- stones  of 
Bradford,  Pike  and  other  lo- 
calities ;  bluestone  of  Tunk- 
hannock     and  Meshoppen ; 
chrome  of  Chester  County ;   graphite  of  Upper 
Uwchlan    in     Chester ;     silver  -  bearing    lead, 
mined  in  large  quantities  in  Chester ;  nickel  of 
Lancaster  County ;  lead  and  copper  of  Phoenix  - 
ville;  salt  of  Kiskiminetas;  sandstone  of  Swatara 
and   Schuylkill ;   whetstone   of  Darby  Creek ; 
granite  of  Delaware  and  Philadelphia,  taken  out 
in  large  quantities;  and  the  kaolin  of  Pennsbury 
and  New   Garden,  used   for   making  porcelain 
and  china.     Lancaster   furnishes  about  all  the 
nickel  for  the  American  coinage. 

The  Government  of  Pennsylvania  dwells  in 
a  governor,  lieutenant-governor  and  secretary  of 
internal  affairs,  elected  for  four  years,  and  other  executive  officers;  and  a  general  assembly  of  50 
senators,  elected  by  the  people  for  four  years,  and  204  representatives  elected  for  two  years. 
The  Supreme  Court  has  seven  judges,  elected  for  21  years ;  and  there  are  48  district  courts; 
with  Federal  Courts  at  Philadelphia,  Williamsport,  Erie  and  Pittsburgh.  The  State 
Capitol,  at  Harrisburg,  a  dignified,  comfortable  and  rather  quaint  structure,  dates  from 
1819-22,  and  has  a  portico  upheld  by  sandstone  pillars,  opening  into  a  rotunda,  with  the 
Senate  Chamber  on  one  side  and  the  House  of  Representatives  on  the  other.  The  State 
Library  (30,000  volumes)  contains  portraits  of  30  Governors;  and  near  the  Adjutant-Gen- 
eral's office  are  the  330  flags  of  the  Pennsylvania  troops  in  the  Secession  War. 

The  National  Guard  of  Pennsylvania  composes  a  division  of  three  brigades,  including  1 5 

regiments  and  five  companies  of  infantry,  three  troops  of 
cavalry  and  three  batteries,  in  all  136  companies,  includ- 
ing over  8,000  men,  enlisted  for  three  years,  and  com- 
pelled to  do  duty  during  that  time,  or  suffer  arduous 
penalties.  The  State  appropriates  $300,000  yearly  to 
this  force,  which,  when  in  service,  receives  rough  soldiers' 
fare,  and  is  quartered  in  floorless  tents.  The  infantry  is 
armed  with  breech-loading  Springfield  rifles.  The  uni- 
forms conform  to  those  of  the  regular  army.  This  is 
=*  probably  the  most  homogeneous  and  serviceable  body 
of  citizen-soldiery  in  the  Union,  approximating  most 
PHILADELPHIA  :  UNION  LEAGUE.  nearly  to  the  regular  army,  and  costing  each  tax- 


THE  STATE  OF  PENNSYLVANIA. 


727 


PHILADELPHIA  :    THE  ART    CLUB. 


payer  less  than  in  any  of  the  five  other  States  with  large  forces.  The  First  Brigade,  with 
headquarters  at  Philadelphia,  includes  the  First,  Second,  Third  and  Sixth  Regiments  of 
Infantry,  the  Battalion  State  Fencibles,  Gray  Invinci- 
bles,  Battery  A,  and  the  First  Troop  Philadelphia  City 
Cavalry.  The  Second  Brigade  has  its  headquarters  at 
Williamsport,  and  includes  the  Fifth,  Tenth,  I4th,  i6th 
and  1 8th  Infantry,  the  Sheridan  Troop,  of  Tyrone,  and 
Battery  B,  of  Pittsburgh.  The  Third  Brigade  includes 
the  Fourth,  Eighth,  Ninth,  Twelfth  and  I3th  Infantry, 
Battery  C,  and  the  Governor's  Guard.  The  State 
Camp  is  at  Mount  Gretna,near  Lake  Conewago  and  sur- 
rounded by  the  beautiful  South-Mountain  range,  hra 
region  of  great  landscape  charm.  There  are  5,000 
acres  of  mountain  and  woodland  and  dale  open  to 
the  maneuvers  of  the  troops ;  a  parade-ground  over  a  mile  long  and  half  a  mile  wide  ; 
an  admirable  rifle-range;  and  artillery-ranges  of  3,000  yards.  This  great  estate  is  owned 
and  kept  in  order  and  loaned  to  the  State  by  Robert  H.  Coleman.  In  1889,  the  three  bat- 
teries and  three  troops  of  horse  encamped  here,  and  at  the  same  time  three  batteries  and  two 
troops  of  United- States  regulars  were  stationed  near  them,  as  an  object-lesson  for  the 
militia.  In  1884  and  1887  the  National  Guard  went  into  division  encampments  at  Gettys- 
burg and  Mount  Gretna,  having  upwards  of  7, 500  men  with  the  colors  each  time.  The 
armory  of  the  First  Regiment,  at  Philadelphia,  is  a  strong  castellated  Gothic  building,  with 
high  towers  and  a  large  drill-hall.  The  State  Arsenal  at  Harrisburg  contains  large  arma- 
ments ready  for  use,  and  has  also  Mexican  artillery  captured  at  Cerro  Gordo,  and  four  can- 
non, brought  to  America  by  d'Estaing  and  given  to  Congress  by  Lafayette.  The  Soldiers'  and 
Sailors'  Home,  established  in  1885,  occupies  the  former  Marine  Hospital  at  Erie  and  several 
new  buildings,  on  a  domain  of  102  acres,  with  300  veterans  of  the  Secession  War. 

Charities  and  Corrections. — Pennsylvania  appropriates  $1,000,000  a  year  to  its  hos- 
pitals and  miners'  hospitals  and  other  charities.  The  paupers  and  insane  have  apparently 
grown  alarmingly  in  numbers  since  1880,  although  the  convict  class  has  not  kept  up  with 
the  population.  Besides  the  State,  county  and  municipal  institutions,  there  are  56  hos- 
pitals, ten  dispensaries,  and  155  homes  and  asylums,  with  property  valued  at  over  $30,000,- 
ooo  (not  including  Girard  College).  There  are  56,000  persons  kept  in  the  prisons  and  hos- 
pitals, or  in  receipt  of  relief  from  the  towns.  The  Eastern  Penitentiary,  at  Philadelphia, 
opened  in  1829,  has  about  1,300  convicts,  confined  in  separate  cells  (the  only  cellular 
prison  in  the  United  States).  This  has  been  regarded  by  many  penologists  as  the  best 
prison  in  America.  Every  convict  is  taught  a  trade,  and  kept  at  work.  Of  late  years  the 
severity  has  been  mitigated.  The  Western  Penitentiary  at  Allegheny  (opened  in  1826)  has 
690  convicts,  and  is  conducted  on  the  congregate  system.  .  There  are  above  70  county  jails 
and  work-houses,  with  3,500  prisoners.  The  Philadelphia  House  of  Refuge  and  the  Re- 
form School  at  Morganza  (in  southwestern  Pennsylvania)  hold  1,200  youthful  offenders. 
The  Industrial  Reformatory  at  Huntington  cost  $900,000,  and  was  occupied  in  1888.  It  is 
for  young  men  between  15  and  25,  first  offenders,  who  are  released  when  it  seems  probable 
that  they  have  reformed.  The  State  asylums  at  Harrisburg,  Dixmont  (seven  miles  from 

Pittsburgh),  Warren,  Danville,  and  Norristown,  and  the  in- 
^  sane  asylums  at  Philadelphia  contain  6,000  insane  persons, 
two  thirds  of  whom  are  indigent.     The  Training- School  for 
Feeble-minded  Children,  near  Media,  contains  700  in- 
mates, on  a  farm  of  200  acres.     The  Institution  for  the 
Instruction  of  the  Blind  was  founded  at  Philadelphia 
''  in  1833,  and  has  200  students.     There  are  also  indus- 
PH,LADELPH,A  r  PosT-OFF.cE.  trial  homes  for  the  blind  at  Philadelphia.   The  Institu- 


728  KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED  STATES. 

tion  for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  arose  at  Philadelphia  in  1820,  and  has  430  pupils  (mostly 
beneficiaries),  who  are  also  taught  tailoring,  sewing  and  shoemaking.     The  Western  Penn- 


sylvania Institution  for  the  Deaf  and 
children  in  its  care.  Philadelphia 
vate  and  denominational  charities, 
maintained  at  vast  expense  by  the 
and  abounding  in  benefits  to  the  de- 

The  House  of  Refuge,  at  Glen 
ings,  erected  in 
of  $500,000,  on  a 
acres.  This  is  a 
can  maintain  1,200 
50,  each  of  which 
The  cottages,  work- 
form  an  open  quad- 
ing  a  beautiful  view 

The  United- 
lions  in  Pennsyl- 
and  important. 
Post-Office,  built 
in  1873-84,  at  a  cost  of 


PHILADELPHIA  :     THE    PUBLIC    BUILDING. 


Dumb,    at   Wilkinsburg,    has    160 
and  other  cities  have  scores  of  pri- 
hospitals,     schools    and     asylums, 
contributions  of  charitable  people, 
fective  and  impoverished  classes.    ] 
Mills,  has  eleven  Queen- Anne  buiid- 
1889-91,  at  a  cost 
domain   of  35^ 
private  charity,  and 
boys,  in  families  of 
occupies  a  cottage, 
shops   and    chapel 
rangle,    command- 
of  Chester  County. 
States     Institu- 
vania  are  numerous 
The     Philadelphia 


entirely  of  granite, 

,000,000,  is  the  most  imposing  National  structure  in  the  State. 
The  Philadelphia  Custom-House  occupies  a  noble  Doric  structure  of  white  marble,  copied 
after  the  Parthenon,  and  erected  for  the  United-States  Bank,  in  1819-24.     There  are  hand- 
some National  buildings  at  Pittsburgh,  Erie,  and  several  other  cities.    Fort  Mifflin,  the  only 
National  fortress  in  Pennsylvania  (and  now  ungarrisoned),  guards  the  Delaware  River  be- 
low Philadelphia.      In  1777  this  defence  was  bombarded  for  six  days  and  nights,   by  358 
British  cannon,  until  its  every  gun  was  dismounted,  and  250  out  of  the  300  brave  Mary^ 
landers  who  formed  the  garrison  had  been  killed  or  wounded.     The  Schuylkill  Arsenal  was 
founded  at  Philadelphia  in  1800,  and  covers  eight  acres.      Here  from  700  to  1,200  women 
and  150  men  are  engaged  in  making  the  clothing,  tents  and  bedding  for  the  United-States 
Army,  including  all  articles,  from  stockings  to  helmets.     Twenty 
million  dollars  has  been  expended  here  in  a  single  year.     The 
Frankford  Arsenal,  at  Philadelphia,  has  handsome  and  spacious 
grounds,  with  many  fine  old  trees,  overarching  the  green 
lawns,  whose  decorations  are  brass  cannon 
and  pyramids  of  black  cannon-balls.     This 
is  the  only  Government  factory  for  making 
metallic  cartridges  for  small-arms  ;  and  it 
also  produces  fine  tools  and  instruments 
and  a  few  weapons.     During  the  Secession 
War   alternating   gangs    of    men   worked 
nights   and   days,    Sundays   and   holidays 
alike,  making  up  cartridges.       The  Alle- 
gheny Arsenal  occupies  spacious  and  highly 
ornamented  grounds  at  Pittsburgh,  and  has  many  large  buildings,  for  the  making  of  militar 
equipments,  but  now  used  only  for  storing  ordnance  and  ordnance-stores.     The  Navy  Yarn 
at  League  Island  covers  923  acres,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Delaware  and  Schuylkill  Rivers 
90  miles  from  the  sea,  and  at  one  of  the  most  important  strategic  points  on  the  Atlanti 
coast.     It  is  close  to  the  great  coal  and  iron  region  of  America,  and  the  available  skille* 
labor  of  a  great  manufacturing  city,  and  the  fresh  water  of  the  surrounding  channels  i 
favorable  for  the  preservation  of  iron  ships.     The  yard  has  been  practically  closed  for  som 
years,  but  a  board  of  naval  officers  has  recently  advocated  the  expenditure  of  $15,000,000 


BRYN    MAWR  \     BRYN-MAWR    COLLEGE 


MERION     HALL. 


THE  STATE  OF  PENNSYLVANIA. 


729 


In  a  lovery  flower-decked  park  of  25  acres, 


PHILADELPHIA  :    THE    UNIVERSITY    OF    PENNSYLVANIA. 


to  make  it  the  foremost  dock-yard  of  America, 
stretching  along  the  Schuylkill  River,  at 
Philadelphia,  stands  the  great  marble  pile  of 
the  United- States  Naval  Asylum,  with  its 
Ionic  portico  and  trophy  cannon.  Here  are 
pleasant  accommodations  for  200  "decrepit 
and  disabled  naval,  officers,  seamen  and 
marines,"  entitled  to  this  rest  by  20  years 
of  man-of-war  service  ;  and  furnished  by  the 
Government  with  pocket-money  and  tobacco. 
Each  man  has  a  room  to  himself,  and  there  is 
a  spacious  dining-hall  and  a  chapel.  A  large  Naval  Hospital  stands  on  the  Asylum  grounds. 
The  Indian  Training  School  was  founded  at  Carlisle  in  1879,  an<^  ^s  managed  and  sup- 
ported by  the  National  Government,  to  educate  and  civilize  the  young  people  of  the  bar- 
barous tribes.  There  are  800  students,  mainly  Apaches  and  Pueblos,  Sioux  and  Oneidas, 
Cheyennes  and  Crows,  with  members  of  37  other  tribes.  The  boys  wear  blue  uniforms  similar 
to  that  of  the  American  Army,  and  receive  military  and  gymnastic  drill.  The  discipline  is 
not  austere,  but  kindly  ;  and  the  young  Indians  show  great  aptitude  in  their  varied  studies, 
as  well  as  in  base-ball  and  other  sports.  Each  student  devotes  half  of  the  day  to  the  usual 

grammar-school  branches,  and  the  other  half  to 
various  mechanical  trades,  or  useful  industries. 
Many  of  the  students  are  "planted  out"  during 
vacation  in  white  families,  to  dwell  and  work 
with  them  ;  and  some  remain,  and  attend  the 
public  schools  during  the  winter,  while  others 
become  apprentices  and  permanent  workmen  in 
established  industries.  The  central  idea  of  the 
school  :  "You  must  die  as  Indians,  but  rise  as 
men  and  women,"  is  continually  kept  in  view  by 
Capt.  R.  H.  Pratt,  the  superintendent.  This 
plan  looks  toward  the  extinction  of  the  aboriginal  languages  and  tribal  relations,  and  the 
merging  of  all  the  Indians  into  the  great  composite  mosaic  of  the  American  people.  The 
United- States  Barracks  at  Carlisle  were  built  in  1777  by, Hessian  prisoners  from  Trenton, 
and  burned  by  Confederate  troops  in  1863.  In  1866  they  were  rebuilt,  and  used  as  a 
cavalry-school  for  army  recruits  until  1872,  after  which  the  property  lay  abandoned  until 
the  Indian  school  arose.  They  form  three  sides  of  a  square,  surrounding  a  beautiful 
parade-ground,  and  making  a  pleasant  home  for  the  wards  of  the  Nation. 

Lincoln  Institute  is  an  Episcopal  school  at  Philadelphia,  partly  supported  by  the  Gov- 
ernment, and  educating  in  the  arts  of  civilized  life  200  Indian  boys  and  girls,  from  18  tribes. 
The  Pennsylvania  Hospital  occupies  a  range  of  quaint  structures,  built  at  Philadelphia 
in  1755.  since  which  120,000  patients  have  been  treated  within  its  walls.  The  Episcopal 
Hospital  at  Philadelphia  is  of  great  size  and  good  fame.  The  Mary  J.  Drexel  Home,  built 
in  Philadelphia  at  a  cost  of  $500,000  in  1886-8,  is  a  magnificent  Gothic  structure,  of  im- 
ported yellow  German  brick,  serving  as  a  mother-house  and  school  for  German  deaconesses. 
Education  is  administered  in  public-school  property  valued  at  $40,000,000.  The 
yearly  cost  of  the  schools  is  above  $12,000,- 
000,  and  1,200,000  children  of  school  age 
enjoy  the  advantages  of  this  magnificent  sys- 
tem. There  are  13  normal  schools,  at  West- 
chester,  Millersville,  Kutztown,  Mansfield, 
Bloomsburg,  Shippensburg,  Lock  Haven, 
Indiana,  California,  Slippery  Rock,  Edin- 


PHILADELPHIA  :     ACADEMY    OF    NATURAL   SCIENCES. 


SWARTHMORE    COLLEGE. 


730 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

boro  and  Clarion.  Ten  million  dollars  have  been  spent 
by  the  State  in  its  schools  for  soldiers'  orphans,  which 
contained  at  one  time  2, 250  pupils.  The  Pennsylvania 
State  College  began  in  1859,  as  the  Farmers'  High 
School,  and  received  the  United- States  land-grant  of 
1862,  becoming  a  prosperous  industrial,  agricultural 
and  military  school,  on  a  4OO-acre  farm  near  Bellefonte. 
Tuition  is  free  for  Pennsylvanian  young  men  and  women. 
The  University  of  Pennsylvania  was  opened  as  an 
academy,  in  1751,  at  Benjamin  Franklin's  suggestion. 

GETTYSBURG  :  PENNSYLVANIA  COLLEGE.        From  1828  to  iS"j2  it  occupied  the  site  of  the  present 
Philadelphia  Post-Office,  and  it  now  has  a  beautiful  location  in  West  Philadelphia,   with 
grounds  covering  40  acres,  near  the  Schuylkill  River.     The  main  building  is"  a  handsome 
piece  of  collegiate  Gothic  architecture,  with  the  department  of  Arts  in  one  wing  and  the 
department  of  Sciences  in  the  other.     Near   by  are  the  Library,  Biological    Hall,  Labor-  ; 
atory,   Hospital,    Veterinary  College    and  Hospital,    Medical  Hall  and    Laboratory,   and 
House  for  Nurses.    The  University  also  has  a  well-directed  gymnasium  and  athletic  grounds. 
The  Medical  School  was   founded  in  1765,    and  is  one  of  the  most  famous  in  America,  ] 
with  more  than  10,000  alumni,  and  an  advanced  post-graduate  department.     Over  200  of 
its  students  come  from  outside  of  Pennsylvania,  includ- 
ing 30  from  abroad.    The  University  library  of  80,000 
volumes  contains  several  valuable  special  collections. 
The  University  has  1 80  professors  and  instructors,  and 
1,325  students,  of  whom  430  are  academic,  490  medi- 
cal, 1 60  in  dentistry,  70  in  veterinary  medicine,  30  in 
biology,  125  in  law,  and  60  in  philosophy. 

The  Lehigh  University  owes  its -foundation  to  Judge 
Asa  Packer,  who,  in  1865,  gave  $500,000  and  115 
acres  of  land  for  this  purpose,  and  followed  it  with  a 
legacy  of  $2,000,000,  to  provide  for  the  young  men  of 
the  Lehigh  Valley  a  complete  scientific  and  literary 
education,  without  charge  for  tuition.  The  costly  and  handsome  University  buildings  stand 
on  a  terrace  of  South  Mountain,  at  South  Bethlehem.  Besides  the  usual  halls,  there  is  a 
large  gymnasium,  the  Sayre  Observatory,  a  beautiful  stone  church,  several  completely 
equipped  laboratories,  and  a  Venetian-Gothic  library,  of  Potsdam  sandstone,  containing 
80,000  volumes.  Nearly  half  of  the  420  students  come  from  outside  of  Pennsylvania,  in- 
cluding 12  from  foreign  countries.  Over  380  study  in  either  one  of  the  courses  of  civil, 
mechanical,  mining,  or  electrical  engineering,  or  analytical  chemistry,  and  only  40  are  in  the 
literary  and  classical  courses.  Lehigh  is  under  the  care  of  the  Episcopal  Church. 

Lafayette  College  occupies  the  beautiful  heights  above  Easton,  at  the  Forks  of  the  Dela- 
ware, where  the  tortuous  and  mountain-born  Lehigh  and  the  lovely  Bushkill  flow  into  the 
greater  Delaware.  Lafayette  received  its  charter  in  1826,  but  languished  for  40  years,  with  > 
dingy  buildings  and  feeble  classes.  In  1863  an  attempt  was 
made  to  close  it,  but  the  Presbyterian  Synod,  whose  care 
and  patronage  it  enjoyed,  voted  and  acted  to  sustain  the 
college.  It  now  has  a  dozen  or  more  buildings,  amid  beau- 
tiful park-like  lawns  and  shrubbery,  and  with  remarkable 
views  over  the  great  adjacent  valleys.  There  are  27  in- 
structors and  309  students.  The  influences  are  sturdily 
Presbyterian.  Among  the  studies  for  which  the  college  is 
famous  are  philology,  and  mining  and  engineering,  the  latter 
favored  by  the  neighboring  mines  and  furnaces. 


SOUTH    BETHLEHEM 
PACKER    HALL,     LEHIGH    UNIVERSITY. 


PHILADELPHIA  : 
ACADEMY    OF    FINE   ARTS. 


THE  STATE   OF  PENNSYLVANIA. 


73* 


Washington  and  Jefferson  College,  at  Washington,  in  southwestern  Pennsylvania,  was 
constituted  in  1865  by  the  union  of  Jefferson  College  (chartered  in  1802)  and  Washington 
College  (1806).  It  has  eleven  instructors  and  176  students,  under  Presbyterian  influence. 

Allegheny  College  began  its  work  in  1815,  and  in  1833  became  a  Methodist  institution, 
which  now  has  178  students  (and  135  preparatory),  and  good  buildings  on  a  pleasant  hill- 
top near  Meadville.  Dickinson  College,  chartered  in  1783,  and  acquired  by  the  Methodists 
in  1833,  nas  93  students  in  its  handsome  ancient  and  modern  stone  halls  at  Carlisle.  Frank- 
lin and  Marshall  College,  at  Lancaster,  is  a  venerable  Reformed  institution,  with  87  students. 
Lebanon- Valley  College  (1866),  five  miles  west  of  Lebanon,  belongs  to  the  United  Brethren. 

Mercersburg  College  (1866),  with  54  students,  per- 
tains to  the  Reformed  Church.  Muhlenberg  Col- 
lege (1867)  is  Lutheran,  and  has  75  students,  at 
Allentown.  Lincoln  University  in  1866  succeeded 
Ashmun  Institute  (founded  in  1854),  and 
its  broad  campus  and  buildings  crown  a 
hill  in  Lower  Oxford,  amid  the  pastoral 
scenery  of  Chester.  It  is  a  Presbyterian 
school,  devoted  to  educating  colored  men, 
and  has  200  students.  The  Lebanon 
Classis  of  the  Reformed  Church  conducts  the  little  Palatine  College  (1867),  at  Myerstown. 
Bucknell  University,  at  Lewisburg,  on  the  West  Branch  of  the  Susquehanna,  is  a  Baptist 
college,  with  an  academy  and  an  institute  for  young  women,  dating  from  1845.  Waynes- 
burg,  46  miles  south  of  Pittsburgh,  has  a  large  college  of 
the  Cumberland  Presbyterians,  founded  in  1851,  and  with 
150  students.  The  richly  endowed  Western  University 
dates  from  1819,  and  has  its  seat  at  Pittsburgh,  near  the 
Monongahela.  The  Allegheny  Observatory,  connected 
with  this  institution,  is  one  of  the  rriost  useful  in  America. 


ERIE  :    CENTRAL  SCHOOL. 


NEW     BUILDINOS. 


Pennsylvania  College  arose  in  1832,  at  Gettysburg,  and 
is  a  reputable  Lutheran  school,  with  119  students.  The 
Hicksite  Friends  educate  their  young  people  at  Swarthmore 
College,  ten  miles  from  Philadelphia,  where  there  is  a  group 
of  handsome  stone  buildings,  on  an  estate  of  240  acres,  half 
park  and  half  farm.  The  college  has  20  instructors  and  165  students,  and  a  preparatory 
school  of  82  students.  In  a  mellow-tinted  stone  house  still  standing  among  the  fine  old 
trees  on  the  college  grounds,  Benjamin  West,  the  President  of  the  Royal  Academy,  was  born 
in  1738.  Haverford  College  was  founded  in  1833  by  the  Orthodox  Friends  as  a  high  school, 
and  became  a  college  in  1856.  It  now  has  14  instructors  and  ill  students,  in  the  classics, 
science  and  engineering.  It  is  nine  miles  from  Philadelphia,  with  commodious  buildings  on 
a  beautiful  campus  of  60  acres,  laid  out  by  an  English  gardener  more  than  half  a  century 
ago,  and  containing  an  unusual  variety  of  fine  trees.  The  library  has  18,000  volumes;  and 
there  are  valuable  museums  and  laboratories,  observatory  and  gymnasium.  Among  other 


732 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE   UNITED  STATES. 


colleges  are  Ursinus  (Reformed),  in  Luzerne  County;  Westminster  (U.  P.),  at  New  Wil- 
mington ;  Central  Pennsylvania  (Evangelical),  at  New  Berlin ;  and  Theil  at  Greenville. 

Bryn-Mawr  College  was  opened  in  1885,  for  the  advanced  education  of  women,  and  has 
a  park  of  40  acres,  near  Philadelphia,  with  the  handsome  stone  buildings  of  Taylor  Hall, 
Denbigh  Hall,  Merion  Hall,  and  Radnor  Hall,  and  a  completely  equipped  gymnasium. 
This  noble  institution  was  endowed  with  $1,000,000,  by  Dr.  J.  W.  Taylor,  of  Burlington, 
N.  J.  It  has  21  instructors  and  80  students.  Its  courses  are  on  the  group  system,  like 
those  at  Johns-Hopkins  University,  with  major  and  minor  electives  ;  and  there  are  advanced 
post-graduate  courses  of  high  value.  Pennsylvania  has  many  large  and  important  academies 
and  seminaries,  attended  by  thousands  of  pupils.  The  Friends  conduct  several  very  ancient 
schools  of  this  kind,  like  that  at  Jenkintown,  founded  in  1713  ;  Langhorne,  1790;  Lahaska, 
1794 ;  Westtown,  1799  ;  and  others.  They  also  have  at  Philadelphia  an  Institute  for  Colored 
Youth.  The  famous  Pennsylvania  Military  Academy,  at  Chester,  is  practically  a  college, 
granting  degrees.  Ogontz  School,  for  girls,  occupies  the  noble  mansion  built  for  Jay  Cooke, 
near  Philadelphia. 

Of  the  many  schools  of  Pennsylvania  none  has  the  historic  interest  of  the  William  Penn 
Charter  School  of  Philadelphia.  This  school,  in  point 
of  age  ranks  fourth  in  the  United  States,  its  qnly  seniors 
being  the  Boston  Latin  School  (1635),  the  R°xbury 
(Mass.)  Latin  School  (1645),  an(^  tne  Hopkins  Gram- 
mar School,  of  New  Haven,  Connecticut  (1660).  It 
was  founded  in  1689;  incorporated  by  the  Provincial 
Council,  in  1698;  in  1701-1708-1711  received  char- 
ters from  William  Penn ;  and  for  more  than  200  years 
it  has  carried  forward  its  work  without  a  break  (even 
during  the  Revolution),  and  still  maintains  the  high 
reputation  established  at  the  outset.  The  staff  con- 
sists of  a  Head-Master  and  18  assistants.  A  large 
property  adjoining  the  Friends'  Meeting  House  on 
Twelfth  Street,  in  the  heart  of  the  city,  is  occupied  PHILADELPHIA:  WILLIAM  PENN  CHARTER  SCHOOL. 
by  the  school.  The  buildings  are  all  modern,  handsome  in  appearance,  substantially  built 
of  brick,  and  thoroughly  appointed ;  and  contain  class-rooms  for  350  boys,  a  gymnasium, 
assembly-room,  chemical  and  physical  laboratories,  a  draughting  room,  library,  and  all  the 
accessories  of  a  completely-equipped  modern  school.  The  gymnastic  exercises  and  the  out- 
door sports,  for  which  there  are  exceptional  facilities,  and  for  which  the  school  is  justly 
famous,  are  under  the  direction  of  men  specially  qualified  for  such  work.  There  is  a  play- 
ing field  of  six  acres  in  the  suburbs.  There  are  three  departments —  the  senior,  junior,  and 
lower,  each  of  which  has  a  separate  staff  of  instructors.  From  30  to  40  boys  are  sent  to 
college  each  year.  This  venerable  institution,  though  founded  200  years  ago,  "at  the  re- 
quest, costs,  and  charges  of  the  people  of  God  called  Quakers,"  is  now,  in  its  organization 
and  methods,  under  the  Head-mastership  of  Richard  M.  Jones,  M.  A.,  one  of  the  most 
modern,  and  anticipates  in  some  features  what  is  likely  to  be  the  school  of  the  future. 

Crozer  Theological  Seminary  at  Upland  is  a  rich  Baptist  school,  opened  in  1867.    The 

Episcopal  Divinity  School,  at  West  Philadel- 
phia, founded  in  1862,  has  26  students.  The 
Lutheran  Theological  Seminary  at  Gettysburg, 
dates  from  1826,  and  has  700  alumni  and  47 
students.  The  Lutheran  Missionary  Institute 
at  Selinsgrove  has  ten  students.  The  Evan- 
gelical Lutheran  Seminary  at  Philadelphia 
(1864)  is  a  strong  institution,  with  62  students. 
The  Moravian  Theological  Seminary,  founded 


PHILADELPHIA:   LIBRARY.  UNIVERSITY  OF   PENNSYLVANIA. 


THE  STATE   OF  PENNSYLVANIA. 


733 


at  Nazareth  in  1807,  is  at  Bethlehem,  and  has  four  pro- 
fessors and  25  students.  The  Western  Theological 
Seminary  at  Allegheny  City,  opened  in  1827,  as  a  Pres- 
byterian school,  has  six  professors,  33  students  and 
1, 500  alumni.  It  has  three  halls,  and  a  library  of  21,000 
volumes.  There  is  a  divinity  school  for  colored  Presby- 
terians at  Lincoln  University,  founded  in  1871.  The 
United-Presbyterian  Seminary  at  Allegheny  City  dates 
from  1825.  There  is  a  Reformed- Presbyterian  Semi- 
nary at  Allegheny  City.  The  Evangelical  Lutheran 
Theological  Seminary,  at  Mount  Airy,  near  Philadel- 
phia, has  65  students  and  500  alumni,  and  a  library  of  20,000  volumes.  Meadville  Theo- 
logical School  was  founded  in  1844,  and  appertains  to  the  Unitarians.  It  has  six  instructors 
and  38  students,  with  a  library  of  18,000  books.  The  Theological  Seminary  of  the  Re- 
formed Church,  founded  in  1825  at  Carlisle,  moved  successively  to  York,  Mercersburg,  and 
Lancaster.  It  has  three  professors  and  42  students,  and  is  endowed  mainly  with  funds 
raised  in  Germany.  This  sect  also  has  a  divinity  school  at  Ursinus  College,  30  miles  north- 


PHILADELPHIA  :     LIBRARY  OF  PHILADELPHIA. 


of  St.  Charles 
crowned  with 
structors  and 


ALLEGHENY    CITY  :     CARNEGIE    LIBRARY. 


west  of  Philadelphia.  The  Catholic  Theological  Seminary 
Borromeo,  near  Philadelphia,  with  its  noble  buildings, 
domes,  is  a  powerful  diocesan  institution,  with  twelve  in- 
140  students.  Villa-Nova  College,  six  miles 
distant,  has  several  stone  buildings,  on  a  far- 
viewing  knoll,  and  is  conducted  by  Augustinian  \v^,.,  v 
monks.  It  has  a  large  farm,  and  a  beautiful 
Gothic  church.  There  are  also  Catholic 
divinity-schools  at  Beatty  (1846)  and  Ger- 
mantown  (1818),  provided  with  large  libraries. 
The  great  medical  schools  of  Pennsylvania 
contain  2,600  students,  and  have  a  continental 
reputation  for  efficiency.  The  Jefferson  Medi- 
cal College,  at  Philadelphia,  is  one  of  the  most 
celebrated  schools  in  the  Republic,  with  admirable  and  extensive  museums,  and  over  500 
students.  The  Woman's  Medical  College,  of  Philadelphia,  the  first  in  the  world,  has  hand- 
some buildings  and  a  large  hospital,  and  161  students.  The  Hahnemann  Medical  College, 
at  Philadelphia,  is  the  oldest  and  foremost  homeopathic  school  of  America,  and  has  large 
dispensaries  and  hospitals  attached.  The  Medico-Chirurgical  and  Orthopaedic  Colleges,  the 
Medical  Department  of  the  University,  and  the  Philadelphia  Polyclinic  are  at  Philadelphia. 

Pittsburgh  also  has  a  medical  school.  Philadelphia  has 
colleges  of  dentistry,  pharmacy  and  veterinary  medicine. 
Girard  College  occupies  a  high-walled  campus  of 
41  acres,  at  Philadelphia,  with  several  white  marble 
buildings,  the  chief  of  which  was  designed  and  built  by 
Thomas  U.  Walter  (the  architect  of  the  United-States 
Capitol),  in  1833-47,  and  ranks  as  the  most  magnifi- 
cent piece  of  Corinthian  temple-architecture  in  America. 
The  rich  surrounding  colonnades,  the  floors  and  walls, 
and  even  the  roof,  are  of  white  marble,  and  show  un- 
usual massiveness  of  construction.  This  building  con- 
tains the  library,  museums  and  class-rooms  ;  and  on 
either  side  are  the  plain  and  commodious  dormitories  and 
other  structures.  The  college  was  founded  by  Stephen 
PHILADELPHIA  :  Y.  M.  c.  A.  Girard,  a  French  sailor  and  Philadelphia  merchant,  who 


734 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE    UNITED  STATES. 


SOUTH    BETHLEHEM    I 
PACKER    MEMORIAL   CHURCH. 


left  to  the  city,  in  1831,  an  estate  valued  now  at  above  $i  1,000,000.  mainly  to 
build  and  maintain  an  institution  for  educating  poor  white  fatherless  boys 
between  six  and  ten  years  of  age,  supporting  them  for  eight  years,  and  in- 
structing them  from  the  alphabet  up  to  high-school  studies.     Girard  College 
now  has  nearly  100  instructors  and  officers,  and  1,600  students  ; 
and  250  more  lads  are  waiting  their  turn  to  enter. 

The  Drexel  Industrial  Institute,  nobly  endowed  by  A.  J. 
Drexel,  with  $1,500,000,  was  dedicated  at  West  Philadelphia 
in  1891,  in  a  handsome  Renaissance  building,  with  free  indus- 
trial day  and  evening  classes  for  over  2,000  boys  and  girls,  and 
lecture-hall,  museum  and  library.  Another  interesting  institu- 
tion is  the  Nautical  School,  for  the  naval  education  of  Pennsyl- 
vanian  boys,  and  occupying  the  sloop-of-war  Saratoga. 

Pennsylvania  has  nearly  50  libraries  of  above  10,000  volumes 
each.  The  largest  is  the  Mercantile  Library  of  Philadelphia,  with  165,000  volumes.  The 
Library  of  Philadelphia  was  founded  in  1731,  by  Benjamin  Franklin  and  the  Junto  Club, 
and  has  156,000  volumes.  Its  Ridgway  Branch  occupies  a  magnificent  classic  building, 
erected  with  $1,500,000,  bequeathed  in  1869  by  Dr.  James  Rush.  The  Historical  Society 
of  Pennsylvania,  at  Philadelphia,  has  30,000  volumes,  and  many  interesting  relics  of  the 
past  days.  The  American  Philosophic  Society  is  the  oldest  scientific  institution  in  the  Re- 
public, having  been  founded  by  Benjamin  Franklin  in  1743,  and 
renewed  in  1769.  In  its  quaint  old  building  at  Philadelphia,  the 
society  has  a  library  of  60,000  volumes.  The  Franklin  Institute, 
founded  in  1824,  at  Philadelphia,  owns  a  valuable  library  of  40,000 
scientific  books;  the  German  Society  has  30,000;  the  Athenaeum, 
25,000  ;  the  Apprentices'  Library,  30,000;  and  the  Mutual,  44,000. 
The  Carnegie  Free  Library,  founded  at  Allegheny  City,  by  Andrew  *, 
Carnegie,  is  one  of  the  noblest  buildings  in  America,  for  a  library  of 
thousands  of  volumes,  an  art-gallery,  and  a  great  organ.  It  is  of  Maine 
granite,  in  Romanesque  architecture.  President  Harrison  and 
other  eminent  men  took  part  in  the  dedication  ceremonies,  in  1890. 
The  Academy  of  Natural  Sciences,  founded  in  1812,  at  Philadel- 
phia, has  a  handsome  Gothic  building,  with  800,000  specimens  in  its  museums,  and  a 
library  of  40,000  books  and  pamphlets.  The  Venetian-Gothic  building  of  the  Academy  of 
Fine  Arts,  at  Philadelphia,  contains  one  of  the  most  interesting  collections  of  paintings  and 
sculptures  in  America,  and  an  efficient  system  of  art-schools.  The  Art  Club  of  Phila- 
delphia occupies  a  spacious  Renaissance  edifice,  with  richly  decorated  galleries.  The 
Pennsylvania  Museum  and  School  of  Industrial  Art  occupies  the  great  granite  and  iron 
Memorial  Building,  in  Fairmount  Park,  with  its  rich  collections  in  art, 
manufactures,  archaeology  and  science,  and  is  designed  to  be  an  Ameri- 
can South-Kensington  Museum,  promoting  instruction  in  the  arts.  Else- 
where in  Fairmount  Park  is  the  Zoological  Garden,  the  largest 
in  America,  covering  33  acres,  with  its  lions  and  tigers,  bears 
and  monkeys,  seals  and  other  interesting  animals.  The 
beautiful  Horticultural  Hall  contains  admirable  collections 
of  rare  plants  and  shrubs,  of  more  than  7,000  varieties.  Phila- 
delphia also  possesses  the  Wagner  Free  Institute  of  Science, 
with  its  free  lectures  and  museum  ;  the  Franklin  Institute, 
for  the  development  of  the  mechanic  arts ;  and  the  School  of 
Design  for  Women. 

Philadelphia  has  the  great  buildings  of  the  American  Sun- 
day-School Union  and  the  Presbyterian  Board  of  Publication. 


PHILADELPHIA  :      CATHEDRAL 
OF    ST.     PETER    AND   ST.     PAUL. 


PHILADELPHIA  :     CHRIST    CHURCH. 


THE  STATE   OF  PENNSYLVANIA. 

The  American  Sunday  -  School 
Union  was  founded  in  1824,  at 
Philadelphia,  where  its  headquar- 
ters still  remain.  This  wonderful 
evangelical  agency  is  managed 
by  36  laymen  of  various  sects, 
and  through  its  missionaries  has 
organized  more  than  80,000  Sun- 
day schools,  with  3,300,000 
pupils,  besides  helping  even  a 
greater  number  of  existing 
schools,  and  originating  many  of 
the  most  successful  and  efficient 
of  the  methods  of  the  modern 
Sunday-school  system.  PITTSBURGH,  AND  THE  OHIO  RIVER. 

Bethlehem,    on  a  plateau  over  the   Lehigh   River,  was  founded  in  1741   by  Bishop 

Nitschman,  and  has  ever  since  been  the  headquar- 
ters of  the  Moravian  Church  in  America.  Its 
ancient  stone  churches  and  seminaries,  the  homes 
of  the  Single  Sisters  and  Widows,  the  sacredly 
kept  cemeteries,  and  the  historic  Sun  Inn,  still 
preserve  noble  and  heroic  memories  of  the  last 
century.  The  Moravian  Seminary  for  Young  Ladies 
dates  from  1749,  and  has  15  instructors  and  no 
students,  with  over  7,000  alumnae.  Litiz,  eight 
miles  north  of  Lancaster,  is  a  beautiful  old  Mor- 
avian hamlet,  in  which  are  still  preserved  the 
venerable  church,  and  the  limestone  houses  for 
the  brothers  and  sisters.  At  Nazareth  is  Nazareth  Hall,  built  in  1755  as  a  mansion  for 
Count  Zinzendorf,  and  since  1785  famous  as  a  Moravian  Boarding- School  for  Boys,  with 
3,000  graduates.  Here,  also,  stands  the  great  stone  house  built  by  George  Whitefield  for 
a  school,  and  now  occupied  by  the  Moravian  Historical  Society  and  home  for  retired  mis- 
sionaries. At  Ephrata,  near  Litiz,  still  stand  the  ancient  buildings  of  the  monastery  of  the 
German  Pietists,  founded  in  1732,  and  at  one  time  containing  70  monks  and  nuns,  robed  in 
white  Capuchin  garments,  and  devoting  much 
time  to  printing,  illuminating  manuscripts,  and 
religious  exercises. 

The  Catholic  settlements  on  the  Allegheny 
Mountains,   around    Loretto,   were   founded   by 
Galitzin,   a  Russian    prince  turned   missionary- 
priest,  who  labored   here   from    1799   to    1840. 
There  are  six  Catholic  parishes,  with  a  Francis- 
can monastery  and  the  convent  of  St.  Aloysius, 
at  Loretto,  and  a  Benedictine  monastery  at  Car- 
rolltown.     The  mother-house  of  the  Benedictine 
nuns    of   America    is    at   St.    Mary's,   in  Beaver         PHILADELPH.A  :   STATUE  OF  MORTON  MCMICHAEL. 
County ;  and   the  American  Benedictine  monks  have  their  headquarters  at  Latrobe,   on 
Loyalhanna  Creek.     The  oldest  American  convent  of  the  Sisters  of  Mercy  is  at  Pittsburgh. 
Philadelphia,  Pittsburgh,  and  other  cities  have  large  Catholic  colleges. 

Chief  Cities.  —  Philadelphia,  the  happy  and  comfortable  old  Quaker  City,  rests  mainly 
on  a  level  plain  between  the  Delaware  and  Schuylkill  Rivers,  fringed  with  busy  wharves, 
and  laid  out  on  the  plan  of  ancient  Babylon,  with  2,000  miles  of  the  most  regular  and  rec- 


ON,  AND    LAFAYETTE    COLLEGE. 


736  KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 

tangular  of  streets,  traversed  by  300  miles  of  street-car  lines.  Up  to  the  year  1825,  this 
was  the  most  populous7  city  and  the  leading  commercial  emporium  of  America,  with 
multitudes  of  ships  in  all  distant  seas.  The  completion  of  the  Erie  Canal  turned  a 
large  share  of  this  trade  to  New  York.  The  Delaware  sweeps  in  a  noble  crescent  in 
front  of  the  city,  which  is  45  miles  from  Delaware  Bay,  and  120  miles  from  the  ocean. 
The  channel  is  deep  enough  for  vessels  drawing  25  feet  of  water,  and  four  lines  of  European 

steamships,  and  many  coastwise  lines,  sail  from 
this  port.  Philadelphia  is  one  of  the  foremost 
manufacturing  cities  of  the  world,  with  12,000 
factories,  employing  250,000  operatives,  and  pro- 
ducing $500,000,000  worth  of  goods  yearly. 
Among  these  are  textiles,  iron  and  steel,  carpets, 
sugar  and  clothing.  There  are  60  brick-yards, 
making  yearly  350, 000,000  brick,  including  the  fa- 

PHILADELPHIA  :     HORTICULTURAL    HALL.  u     j  •       •  ^TM_       • 

mous  pressed  and  moulded  varieties.  The  im- 
mense extent  and  diversity  of  Philadelphia's  manufactures  has  drawn  hither  an  army  of  a 
quarter  of  a  million  industrious  artisans ;  and  through  the  skilful  and  conservative  workings 
of  cooperative  building  associations,  these  happy  toilers  have  more  comfortable  and  pleasant 
homes  than  those  of  any  other  city.  There  are  more  houses  in  Philadelphia  than  in  New 

York  ;  and  these  are  to  a  large  extent  neat  and 
commodious  brick  buildings,  owned  by  their  oc- 
cupants, and  lining  the  quiet  streets  for  scores  of 
leagues.  It  was  the  gigantic  hero-king  of  Sweden, 
Gustavus  Adolphus,  who  planned  to  found  on 
the  banks  of  the  Delaware  a  city  where  "every 
man  should  have  enough  to  eat,  and  toleration  to 
worship  God  as  he  chose."  The  wonderful 
markets  of  Philadelphia,  unrivalled  elsewhere  in 
PHILADELPHIA  :  MEMORIAL  HALL.  America  in  their  plentiful  and  varied  supplies, 

ensure  enough  to  eat,  even  for  the  great  population  of  the  city ;  and  religious  toleration  is 
manifested  by  over  700  churches,  from  the  grand  Catholic  Cathedral  of  St.  Peter  and  St. 
Paul  down  to  the  bare  little  meeting-houses  of  the  Friends.  This  community  for  many 
decades  led  all  its  sisters  in  literary,  artistic  and  scientific  culture,  and  the  great  libraries 

and  educational  institutions  are  of  National  in- 
terest, even  in  these  later  days  of  over-ruling 
material  prosperity.  No  American  city  surpasses 
this  in  the  wealth  of  its  historical  associations, 
especially  as  relating  to  the  founding  of  the  Great 
Republic.  Here  stand  Independence  Hall  and 
Carpenters'  Hall ;  the  venerable  Christ  Church, 
founded  in  1727,  where  Washington  worshipped, 

PHILADELPHIA  :  THE  wissAHicKON  DRIVE.  and  in  whose  grave-yard  at  Fifth  and  Arch  Streets 

Franklin  is  buried  ;  the  site  (at  Seventh  and  Market  Streets)  where  Jefferson  wrote  the 
Declaration  of  Independence ;  the  site  (239  Arch  Street)  where  the  first  American  flag  was 
made,  under  Washington's  supervision ;  a'nd  many  other  shrines  of  patriotism.  Philadel- 
phia has  some  of  the  finest  edifices  in  America,  the  foremost  of  them  being  the  Public 
Building,  a  huge  fire-proof  pile  of  Massachusetts  marble,  with  520  rooms,  covering  over 
four  acres,  and  with  a  tower  which  is  to  be  537^  feet  high,  and  crowned  by  a  colossal 
bronze  statue  of  William  Penn,  36  feet  high.  This  structure  was  begun  in  1871,  and  may 
not  be  finished  until  1895,  having  cost  over  $10,000,000.  It  is  the  largest  municipal  build- 
ing in  the  world,  a  snowy  marble  pile  looming  over  the  city  with  grandiose  effect.  Near 
this  municipal  palace  is  the  Masonic  Temple,  built  in  1868-73,  at  a  cost  of  $1,500,000. 


THE  STATE   OF  PENNSYLVANIA. 


737 


Much  interest  attaches  to  the  beautiful  bridges  over  the  Schuylkill,  one  of  which  is  said  to 
be  the  widest  in  the  world  ;  the  famous  Academies  of  Music,  of  the  Fine  Arts,  and  of  Natural 
Sciences ;  the  homes  of  the  Union  League,  J|  and  the  Philadelphia,  Manufacturers', 
University,  Rittenhouse,  and  other  clubs,  and 


PHILADELPHIA  :    SCENES    IN    FAIRMOUNT    PARK. 


the  Schuylkill  Navy  Athletic  Club ;  and  the  great  buildings  of  the  financial  and  fiduciary 
institutions,  newspapers,  and  railroad  and  mercantile  corporations. 

The  Schuylkill  and  Wissahickon  Valleys  and  their  bordering  hills  are  adorned  by  Fair- 
mount  Park,  the  largest  city  park  in  America,  covering  2, 791  acres,  and  including  the  domains 
of  many  ancient  and  historic  country-seats,  like  Robert  Morris's  Lemon  Hill,  John  Penn's 
The  Solitude,  Joseph  Bonaparte's  Lansdowne,  Judge'  Richard  Peters's  Belmont,  and  the 
cottage  wherein  dwelt  Tom  Moore,  the  Irish  poet.  Among  these  far-viewing  hills  are 
many  noble  works  of  art,  the  magnificent  monument  to  Gen.  Washington,  the  seated 
statue  of  Abraham  Lincoln,  the  Humboldt  monument,  the  equestrian  statue  of  Gen.  Meade, 
and  the  memorial  statue  of  Morton  McMichael,  for  40  years  one  of  Pennsylvania's  foremost 
public  men,  whose  career  and  character  are  tersely  described  by  the  inscription:  "An 
honored  and  beloved  citizen  of  Philadelphia." 

The  name  of  Kingsley  has  been  identified  with  the 
Continental  Hotel,  Philadelphia,  almost  from  the  day 
it  was  opened  to  the  public,  nearly  30  years  ago.  It 
was  opened  by  J.  E.  Stevens  &  Co.,  in  1860,  just 
prior  to  the  breaking  out  of  the  Secession  War. 
During  the  war,  J.  E.  Kingsley  began  his  connection 
with  the  hotel ;  and  in  1876  his  son,  E.  E.  Kingsley, 
was  admitted  to  an  interest.  The  Continental,  as  a 
hotel,  possesses  peculiar  features  of  its  own.  Its  in- 
terior arrangements  and  appointments  are  elegant, 
and  in  convenience  and  comfort  the  house  is  as  nearly 
perfect  as  possible.  There  is  an  abundance  of  stairways,  and  the  arrangements  for  the  pre- 
vention and  control  of  fire  and  for  the  escape  of  guests  in  case  of  fire  are  of  the  best.  This 


PHILADELPHIA  \    CONTINENTAL    HOTEL. 


738  KING'S  HANDBOOK   OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 

hotel  was  one  of  the  first  in  the  country  to  introduce  an  elevator,  which  was  at  that  time, 
a  curiosity.  Almost  the  whole  line  of  distinguished  visitors  to  Philadelphia  for  more  than 
a  quarter  of  a  century  have  made  their  temporary  abode  at  the  Continental.  Among  these 
have  been  the  Prince  of  Wales  and  Dom  Pedro  of  Brazil,  and  all  of  the  Presidents  of  the 
United  States  from  Lincoln  to  Harrison  have  slept  beneath  its  roof.  When  opened  it  was 
unsurpassed  by  any  hotel  in  the  land,  and  with  its  present  complete  renovation,  remodelling 
and  refurnishing,  the  Continental  still  compares  favorably  with  the  best  of  the  hotels.  It  is 
located  at  the  very  heart  of  the  business  part  of  the  city,  across  from  the  Post-Office. 

Pittsburgh  is  nobly  placed  where  the  Allegheny  and  Monongahela  Rivers  unite  to  form  the 
Ohio,  354  miles  west  of  Philadelphia ;  and  ranks  as  one  of  the  most  important  manufacturing 
cities  in  the  world,  in  iron  and  steel,  brass  and  copper,  cotton 
and  flour,  glass  and  paper.  It  is  the  centre  of  a  rich  mineral 
district,  with  vast  transportation  facilities  by  river  and  canal 
and  several  converging  railways.  The  Pittsburgh  district  has 
20  blast-furnaces,  with  a  yearly  capacity  of  over  1,000,000 
tons  of  pig-iron;  64  iron  and  steel  mills,  making  1,500,000 
tons  yearly ;  56  glass-works,  20  natural-gas  companies,  and 
60  oil-refineries.  The  70  local  companies  produce  vast 
quantities  of  coal  and  coke.  The  largest  cork-factory  in  the 
world  is  in  operation  here.  The  local  shipyards  build  many 
steamboats,  for  service  on  the  Western  rivers.  The  chief  of 
the  many  civic  structures  is  the  Court  House,  designed  by 
H.  H.  Richardson,  and  built  by  Norcross  Brothers,  at  a  cost 

of  $2,500,000.  This  noble  granite  palace  of  justice  is  adorned  PHIUADELPHIA .  PENNSYLVANIA  RAIL- 
with  an  impressive  tower  420  feet  high.  Allegheny  City  lies  ROAD,  BROAD-STREET  STATION. 
on  the  picturesque  heights  opposite  Pittsburgh,  and  has  many  large  and  prosperous  factories. 
Reading  is  a  compact  city,  of  German  origin,  on  the  narrow  plain  between  the  Schuylkill 
River  and  Penn's  Mount,  with  canals  and  railroad  junctions  and  immense  repair-shops,  fur- 
naces, rolling  mills  and  brass  and  steel  works,  and  a  profitable  trade  with  the  rich  farming  lands 
of  Berks  County.  Scran  ton  is  a  sombre  and  prosperous  manufacturing  city,  founded  in  1840, 
on  a  plateau  near  the  Lackawanna  River,  with  immense  steel  works  and  collieries,  and  large 
Welsh  and  German  populations.  Wilkes-Barre,  the  metropolis  of  the  lovely  Valley  of 

Wyoming,  occupies  a  pleasant  site  on  the  winding 
Susquehanna,  in  the  midst  of  a  productive  coal-min- 
ing region.  The  men  who  founded  the  town,  in 
1772,  named  it  in  honor  of  two  eminent  partisans  of 
American  liberty  in  the  British  Parliament.  At  Har- 
risburg,  the  Susquehanna,  just  escaped  from  the  wild 
passes  of  the  Blue  Mountains,  is  a  broad  and  lovely 
stream,  flowing  around  many  islands.  Amid  this 
pleasant  scenery  stands  the  capital  of  Pennsylvania, 
with  its  interesting  public  buildings  and  great  rolling- 
mills  and  other  manufactories,  whose  products  are 
valued  at  $12,000,000  a  year.  Lancaster  owes  its 
foundation  to  German  Lutherans,  and  was  for  many  years  the  capital  of  Pennsylvania 
and  the  largest  inland  town  of .  the  United  States.  It  is  a  quaint  and  compact  city,  built 
mainly  of  brick,  and  in  a  remarkably  rich  farming  country,  "the  Garden  of  America," 
near  Conestoga  Creek.  Here  the  sect  of  the  United  Brethren  arose  ;  and  near  by  Robert  Ful- 
ton was  born,  and  James  Buchanan  lived  and  died.  York,  with  its  seven  bridges  over  the 
Codorus,  72  schools,  35  churches,  and  costly  public  buildings,  is  the  manufacturing  and 
commercial  centre  of  one  of  the  richest  agricultural  regions  in  America.  Easton  is  a 
wealthy  manufacturing  city,  nestling  among  the  high  hills  where  the  Lehigh  and  Dela- 


PITTSBURGH  : 
BALTIMORE    &    OHIO    RAILROAD   STATION. 


iiillltto  _ 


THE  STATE   OF  PENNSYLVANIA. 

ware  Rivers  meet.  Johnstown,  destroyed  in  1889 
by  flood,  has  risen  again,  among  the  western  Alle- 
ghenies.  Chester,  the  famous  ship-building  city  on 
the  Delaware,  and  the  oldest  settlement  in  Pennsyl- 
vania (founded  by  the  Swedes  in  1644),  has  30  cot- 
ton and  woolen  mills,  besides  steel-works  and  boiler 
and  engine  shops.  The  Delaware -River  Iron 
Ship-building  and  Engine  Works  were  founded  at 
Chester  by  the  late  John  Roach  in  1872,  and  have 
built  many  steamships  for  the  Oregon,  Brazilian  PHILADELPHIA:  BALTIMORE  &  OHIO  RAILROAD  STATION. 
Mail,  Old  Dominion  and  Mallory  Lines,  besides  swift  and  powerful  men-of-war,  and  the 
huge  Pacific-Mail  steamships,  City  of  Pekin  and  City  of  Tokio. 

Allentown  is  a  comfortable  Pennsylvania-Dutch  manufacturing  city,  looking  from  its 
embowered  plateau  over  the  rich  farming  and  mining  lands  of  the  Lehigh  Valley.  There 
are  enormous  iron  and  rolling-mills  in  this  vicinity.  Altoona  lies  at  the  base  of  the  Alle- 
ghenies,  at  the  head  of  the  Tuckahoe  Valley,  and  has  the  immense  shops  of  the  Pennsylvania 
Railroad,  and  other  industries.  Erie  extends  for  a  league  along  Presque-Isle  Bay,  one  of 
the  best  harbors  on  Lake  Erie,  and  has  a  large  shipping  trade,  besides  valuable  manufactures 
and  costly  public  buildings.  It  occupies  the  site  of  a  French  fort  built  in  1749,  and  was  the 
headquarters  of  Perry's  victorious  naval  squadron.  Hither  come  vast  fleets  laden  with 
Michigan  iron  and  Canadian  lumber,  and  carrying  westward  cargoes  of  coal.  Meadville 
makes  iron  and  woollen  goods,  on  the  Venango  River.  New  Castle,  in  Western  Pennsyl- 
vania, has  iron,  glass  and  other  mills,  and  rich  mines.  Norristown,  on  the  Schuylkill,  16 
miles  from  Philadelphia,  is  a  pleasant  educational  and  manufacturing  county-town,  near  the 
rich  limestone  country  of  the  Great  Valley.  Phoenixville,  with  its  iron  and  pottery  works, 
lies  on  the  Schuylkill,  27  miles  from  Philadelphia.  Pottsville  is  the  great  shipping-point 
of  Schuylkill  coal.  Williamsport,  on  the  West  Branch  of  the  Susquehanna,  enjoys  a  great 


trade  in  pine 
makes  car- 
awanna,  ex- 
ville,  Oi 


and  hemlock  lumber.  Bristol,  an  ancient  borough  on  the  Delaware, 
pets  and  iron  goods.  Carbondale,  among  the  high  ridges  on  the  Lack- 
ports  enormous  quantities  of  anthracite  coal.  Bradford  and  Titus- 
City  and  Corry  have  been  built  up  by  the  petroleum  industry. 

Commerce  is  favored  by  the  central  position  of  the  State, 
with  Pittsburgh  at  the  eastern  head  of  navigation  on  the 
western  rivers,  Erie  receiving  the  shipping  of  the  Great  Lakes, 
and  Philadelphia  as  one  of  the  foremost  Atlantic  ports,  with 
important  steamship  lines  to  Europe  and  along  the  coast. 
The  first  steamboat  on  the  Western  waters  of  the  United 
States  was  the  New  Orleans,  launched  at  Pittsburgh  early  in 
1811,  and  afterwards  used  as  a  packet  between  Natchez  and 
New  Orleans.  Since  then  thousands  of  boats  have  been  con- 
structed here,  including  many  gunboats  used  in  the  Secession 
War.  At  the  other  end  of  the  State,  in  Philadelphia,  the  great 
ship-yards  of  Win.  Cramp  employ  2,200  men,  and  among 
their  works  have  been  the  war-ships  Philadelphia,  Newark, 
Vesuvius  and  Yorktown. 

Railroad  companies  in  Pennsylvania  number  250,  with 
$750,000,000  paid-in  capital  stock  and  $810,000,000  of  debts.  The  roads  and  equipments 
cost  upwards  of  $1,000,000,000.  They  have  9,715  miles (15, 063  miles  of  track)  in  Penn- 
sylvania, mainly  of  steel  rails,  with  5,800  locomotives  and  3,700  passenger-cars,  and  over 
200,000  freight  cars.  The  passengers  carried  exceed  92,000,000  a  year.  These  lines  also 
transport  yearly  42,000,000  tons  of  through  freight  and  100,000,000  tons  of  local  freight, 
besides  100,000,000  tons  of  coal,  25,000,000  tons  of  iron,  and  3,500,000  tons  of  oil. 


PHILADELPHIA  : 
hAHNEMANN    MEDICAL    COLLEGE. 


740 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED  STATES. 


LEWISBURG  :     BUCKNELL    UNIVERSITY. 


The  business  is  increasing  at  a  prodigious  rate.    Over 
87,000  men  are  employed  in  Pennsylvania  alone. 

The  Pennsylvania  Railroad  controls  over  6,000 
miles  of  routes,  2,555  of  which  are  in  the  Pennsylvania 
Division,  whose  net  earnings  are  above  $12,000,000 
yearly.  This  wonderful  route,  with  its  daring  feats  of 
constructive  engineering,  was  built  in  1847-54,  from 
Philadelphia  to  Pittsburgh.  The  passage  across  the 
Allegheny  Mountains  affords  an  impressive  experience, 
and  unfolds  magnificent  mountain  and  valley  views. 
This  section  leads  up  very  heavy  grades,  insomuch  that  on  the  descent  trains  shut  off  steam 
and  keep  on  the  brakes  for  eleven  miles.  The  famous  Horse- Shoe  Bend,  near  Kittanning 
Point,  sweeps  around  the  head  of  a  great  ravine,  so  that  the  locomotive  may  be  seen  from  the 
rear  cars,  going  almost  in  an  opposite  direction.  The  railroad  from  Mauch  Chunk  to  Sum- 
mit Hill  (nine  miles)  began  operations  in  1827,  the  cars  descending  by  their  own  gravity, 
and  being  drawn  back  by  rnules,  over  wooden  rails  faced  with  thin  bars  of  iron.  Two  years 
later  a  1 6-mile  line  was  built  in  the  Lackawanna  region,  the  cars  being  drawn  up  short  steep 
planes  by  stationary  engines,  and  descending  the  ensuing  long  planes  by  gravity.  The  Phil- 
adelphia &  Columbia  line  was  finished  in  1834;  and  the  Harrisburg  &  Lancaster  in  1838. 
The  Broad- Street  station  of  the  Pennsylvania  line  is  one  of  the  grandest  and  costliest  in  the 
world.  Its  train-shed  was  built  by  the  Keystone  Bridge  Company  of  Pittsburgh.  The  long 
bridge  across  the  Susquehanna  River  was  constructed  by  the  Edge  Moor  Company,  of 
Wilmington  (Del.).  The  Baltimore  &  Ohio  Railroad  has  an  extensive  system  of  tracks  in 
Pennsylvania,  reaching  Pittsburgh  and  Johnstown  in  the  west,  and  Philadelphia  in  the  east. 

The  Philadelphia  &  Reading  Railroad  controls  1,583  miles  of  track,  and  has  an  enor- 
mous coal  freight,  owning,  in  conjunction  with  the  Reading  Coal  &  Iron  Company,  75  col- 
lieries and  160,000  acres  of  coal-lands.  Not  far  from  Susquehanna  ("the  City  of  Stairs," 
with  enormous  railway  shops)  is  the  Starucca  Viaduct,  a  noble  piece  of  masonry  no  feet  high, 
on  which  the  Erie  Railway  crosses  the  Starucca  Valley.  In  this  same  region,  the  railway  run- 
ning north  from  Carbondale  crosses  Mount  Ararat,  one  of  the  Alleghenies,  2, 500  feet  above 
the  sea,  which  is  the  highest  point  reached  by  any  standard  line  east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

Canals  are  still  operated  for  778  miles,  including  200  miles  of  slackwater  navigation ; 
and  10,000,000  tons  of  freight  (mainly  coal)  pass  over  them  yearly,  resulting  in  tolls  of 
$2,800,000.  They  cost  the  State  $50,000,000,  but  have  lost  most  of  their  value  now,  and 
are  controlled  by  the  railroads  and  mining  companies.  The  amount  of  freight  carried  by 
the  canals  has  more  than  doubled  during  the  past  five  years.  There  are  1,5°°  canal-boats, 
500  locks  and  no  basins.  The  great  canal  improvements  began  as  far  back  as  1790,  when 
Gov.  MifHin  contracted  for  improving  navigation  on  several  streams.  The  Union  Canal 
was  begun  in  1792;  the  Conewago  Canal,  around  the  Great  Falls  of  the  Susquehanna,  in 
1793;  the  Schuylkill  Navigation  Canal,  between  1815  and  1825;  and  the  North-Branch 
Canal,  in  1854.  The  State  in  1828-34  joined  Philadelphia  to  Pittsburgh  by  a  combina- 
tion route,  from  Philadelphia  to  Columbia,  82  miles,  by  railroad  ;  thence  to  Hollidaysburg, 
172  miles,  by  canal ;  thence  to  Johnstown,  36  miles,  by  the  Portage  Rail- 
^:  £&  -  road  ;  and  thence  by  canal  down  the  valley  to  Pittsburgh,  104  miles.  The 
jJBaii^.  famous  Allegheny  Portage  Railroad,  built  in  1831-2,  began  at  Holli- 

daysburg, whence  five  inclined  planes,  joined  by  winding  levels,  as- 
cended to  the  crest  of  the  Alleghenies,  2, 500  feet  above  the  sea,  and 
1,398  feet  above  the  base.  Another  series  led  down  1,172  feet  to 
Johnstown,  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  waters  of  the  West.  The 
canal-boats  were  built  in  sections,  detached  on  reaching  the  base  of 
the  Alleghenies,  and  placed  on  trucks,  which  were  hauled  up  the 

PITTSBURGH  ;  CITY  HALL.        inclines  by  ropes  attached  to  stationary  engines,  and  lowered  in 


THE   STATE   OF  PENNSYLVANIA. 


741 


a  similar  manner  on  the  other  side,  the  emigrants  and  freight  remaining  on  board.  The 
main  line  of  the  State  public  works,  from  Philadelphia  to  Pittsburgh,  was  sold  by  Gov.  Pol- 
lock to  the  Pennsylvania  Railroad,  in  1857,  for  $7,500,000;  and  the  next  year  the  Sunbury 
&  Erie  Railroad  bought  also  the  Delaware  Division  Canal  and  the  canals  above  the  Juniata, 
for  $3,500,000.  The  Pennsylvania  Canal  runs  from  Columbia,  on  the  lower  Susquehanna, 
to  Nanticoke,  in  the  Valley  of  Wyoming,  144  miles  ;  from  Junction  to  Huntington,  up  the 
Juniata  Valley,  90  miles ;  from  Northumberland  to  Lock  Haven,  up  the  West  Branch,  66 
miles;  and  from  Clark's  Ferry  to  Millersburg,  12  miles.  Coal,  lime,  and  lumber  form  the 
chief  freight.  Most  of  the  canals  from  Harrisburg  westward  were  abandoned  in  1889,  tne 
Pennsylvania  Railroad  having  rendered  them  superfluous.  The  canal  from  Columbia  to  Havre 
de  Grace  is  45  miles  long.  The  Delaware  Division  Canal  from  Easton  to  Bristol,  60  miles, 
and  the  Lehigh  Coal  &  Navigation  Company's  Canal  from  Easton  to  Coalport  (47  miles),  are 
used  chiefly  for  coal.  The  Delaware  &  Hudson  Canal,  from  Honesdale  to  Eddyviile, 
N.  Y.,  108  miles  (25  miles  in  Pennsylvania),  cost  $7,000,000,  and  carries  1,300,000  tons  of 
freight  (mainly  coal)  yearly.  The  Monongahela  Navigation  Company  cost  $1,800,000,  and 
affords  slackwater  navigation  from  Pittsburgh  86  miles  south  to  New  Geneva.  These 
works  date  from  1836-44,  and  have  been  of  vast  benefit  to  the  coal-trade.  The  Schuylkill 
Canal  leads  from  Philadelphia  to  Reading  and  Schuylkill  Haven.  Surveys  are  in  progress 
for  a  great  ship-canal  connecting  Lake  Erie  and  the  upper  Ohio  River. 

The  Newspapers  cover  the  entire  State  with  their  issues,  the  most  important  being 
published  at  Philadelphia  and  Pittsburgh.  The  journalism  of  the  former  city  is  distin- 
guished by  George  W.  Childs's  P^tblic  Ledger,  Col.  A.  K.  McClure's  Times,  the  Press, 
Item,  News,  Telegram,  Inquirer,  and  other  papers.  Here,  also,  is  published  one  of  the 
most  ancient  newspapers  in  the  world,  the  famous  North  American,  which  was  founded  in 
1771,  and  has  had  an  uninterrupted  career  of  success  and  beneficence.  It  is  sold  for  a  cent 
a  copy,  and  yet  belongs  to  the  Associated  Press,  and  has  one  of  the  ablest  bands  of  edit- 
orial writers  in  America.  The  present  prosperity  and  high  repute  of  the  paper  are  largely 
due  to  the  efforts  of  the  late  Hon.  Morton  McMichael,  for  many  years  its  editor,  proprietor 
and  director.  The  editors  and  publishers  now  are  Morton  McMichael's  Sons. 

The  Philadelphia  Record,  which  has  by  far  the  largest  circulation 
of  any  paper  in  Pennsylvania,  ranks  among  the  half  dozen  daily 
papers  of  the  United  States  having  a  circulation  of  over  100,000.  It 
dates  back,  under  its  present  management,  to  January  I,  1877, 
when  it  was  purchased  by  William  M.  Singerly  from  William  J. 
Swain,  who  had  begun  its  publication  on  May  14,  1870.  Its  circu- 
lation was  very  limited  under  the  old  management,  but  it  now  aver- 
ages over  126,000  a  day,  and  is  constantly  growing.  The  Record'^ 
a  one-cent  paper,  being  one  of  the  pioneers  in  the  miraculous  work 
of  publishing  a  complete,  newsy,  clean  and  interesting  sheet  at  a 
price  within  the  reach  of  everybody  ;  and  it  is  essentially  a  newspaper 
of  the  people  and  for  the  people.  It  is  a  bold  advocate  of  the  reform 
of  many  abuse's  that  bear  heavily  upon  the  people,  such  as  the  dis- 
criminations of  railroad  companies,  combinations  of  the  coal-produc- 
ing corporations  to  keep  the  price  of  that  necessity  far  above  what 
it  should  be,  and  the  exactions  of  the  tariff  laws  in  the  interest  of 
the  rich  against  the  poor.  The  Record  broke  up  the  bogus  medical 
colleges  in  Philadelphia  that  made  a  practice  of  selling  diplomas  for 
a  trifle.  It  has  for  years  sold  coal  to  consumers  at  a  reasonable  price,  compelling  dealers  to 
give  up  the  extortionate  rates  they  were  accustomed  to  charge.  In  this  way  alone  it  has  saved 
millions  of  dollars  yearly  to  the  people.  The  Record  has  led  among  the  papers  of  Philadel- 
phia in  all  efforts  to  improve  the  trade  of  that  city  and  to  build  it  up  as  a  commercial  port. 
With  this  end  in  view,  it  has  always  advocated  the  utmost  freedom  of  competition,  and  the 


PHILADELPHIA  : 
HILADELPHIA    RECORD.' 


742 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


breaking  down  of  all  artificial  barriers  to  its  development.  It  occupies  a  handsome  building 
on  Chestnut  Street,  which  was  planned  for  the  special  convenience  of  the  working  force  of  the 
paper,  rather  than  of  tenants.  The  proprietor  of  The  Record,  William  M.  Singerly,  is  known 
throughout  the  country  as  a  progressive  man  of  affairs  and  a  strong  Democrat,  and  in  poli- 
tics his  paper,  though  not  a  .partisan  sheet,  reflects  his  views. 

Paper-making  in  America  took  its  rise  in  Pennsylvania,  the  first  mill  having  been  built 
in  1690,  on  a  tributary  of  the  Wissahickon  Creek,  and  operated  by  the  Rittenhouses,  who 

had  been  engaged  in  the  same 
business  in  Holland.  Another  of 
these  ancient  establishments  was 
the  famous  Ivy  Mill,  founded  in 
Delaware  County,  by  Thomas 
Willcox,  in  1727.  Paper  was  made 
here  from  1729  to  1872,  S.nd  the 
GLEN  M,LLS  :  THE  JAMES  M.  WILLCOX  PAPER  co.  venerable  edifice  still  stands,  as 

an  object  of  fine  artistic  beauty,  with  the  ivy  trailing  from  its  walls,  and  the  stream  rippling 
merrily  by.  The  industry  has  taken  on  a  new  development  of  modern  ingenuity  and  per- 
fection, and  the  old  Ivy  Mill  is  succeeded  by  the  two  Glen  Mills  of  the  Jameg  M.  Willcox 
Paper  Company,  at  Glen  Mills,  Delaware  County,  employing  200  persons,  and  making  a 
large  variety  of  fine  papers  from  linen  and  cotton  rags.  Their  product  includes  bond, 
parchment  and  music  paper,  and  the  finer  grades  of  book  paper.  Great  quantities  of  bank- 
note paper  have  also  been  made  here,  and  the  Colonial  bills  were  printed  on  the  Willcox 

paper,  which  was  also  used  by  the  United- States 
Government  until  1882.  The  Glen  Mills  date 
from  1836,  and  were  built  by  James  M.  Willcox. 
They  are  now  conducted  by  William  F.  Willcox, 
under  the  name  of  the  James  M.  Willcox  Paper 
Company. 

Since  the  philosopher  and  statesman,  Franklin, 
ong  a  resident  of  Philadelphia,  was  a  printer,  it  is 
a  custom  to  look  to  this  city  as  a  leader  in  all  that 
pertains  to  the  typographic  art.  Here  was  estab- 
lished the  first  type-foundry  in  America.  The  firm 
is  to-day  known  throughout  the  world  as  the  Mac- 
Kellar,  Smiths  &  Jordan  Company,  although  it  was  established  nearly  a  century  ago,  in 
1796,  by  Binney  &  Ronaldson.  In  regular  succession  from  these  original  proprietors  the 
present  firm  has  come  down,  although  it  was  not  formally  incorporated  until  1885.  Two 
of  the  present  proprietors  have  been  connected  with  the  concern  for  half  a  century,  and 
others  for  various  periods,  varying  from  35  to  20  years.  The  two  large  buildings  occupied 
by  the  company  are  on  Sansom  Street,  one  of  brick,  and  the  other  of  brownstone  ;  300 
persons  are  given  employment,  and  the  amount  of  lead,  antimony,  tin,  copper  and  brass 
used  within  the  limit  of  a  year  is  something  enormous.  The  international  expositions  of 
New- York,  Sydney,  Philadelphia,  Melbourne,  Paris  and  others  have  all  recognized  the  ex- 
cellence of  the  product  of  this  company  by  the  gifts  of  gold  medals  and  other  awards  of 
merit.  Some  of  the  most  valuable  and  ingenious  machinery  for  the  manufacture  of  type 
has  been  designed  and  is  in  use  in  this  foundry.  The  MacKellar,  Smiths  &  Jordan  Com- 
pany is  not  merely  the  oldest  type-foundry,  but  it  is  also  conceded  by  every  one  to  be  in- 
comparably the  largest  and  foremost  establishment  of  its  kind  on  the  whole  continent.  It 
has  also  several  extensive  agencies  in  South  America,  Australia  and  Europe. 

The  Mayor  of  the  great  city  of  Philadelphia,  with  its  million  of  inhabitants,  typifies  in 
his  own  personal  success  the  grand  opportunities  that  are  open  to  every  child  in  our  glori- 
ous American  Republic,  where  neither  rank  nor  wealth  nor  state,  but  a  man's  own  ability, 


PHILADELPHIA  :  MACKELLAR,  SMITHS  &  JORDAN. 


THE  STATE   OF  PENNSYLVANIA. 


743 


EDWIN     S.     STUART. 
LEARY'8    OLD    BOOK-STORE. 


obtains  the  highest  honors  of  the  land.  The  boy  who  began  in  the  humblest  position  in  a 
second-hand  book  shop,  and  afterwards  became  its  owner,  has,  at  the  age  of  37,  been 
chosen  by  over  40,000  majority,  the  chief  magistrate  of  one  of  the  greatest  cities  of  the 
world.  That  ambition  to  be  only  at  the  head  has  built  up  in  Philadelphia  the  largest  old 
book-store  in  America.  It  has  been  for  many  years  celebrated  under  the  name  of  Leary's, 
although  it  has  now  passed  into  the  hands  of  Edwin  S.  Stuart,  the  successor  to  Leary  &  Co. 
This  unique  establishment  buys  and  sells  more  second-hand  books  than  any  other  store  in 
the  country,  and  at  all  times  carries  300,000  volumes  on  its  shelves  and  counters.  Its 
patrons  are  found  in  all  parts  of  the  world,  and  large  orders 
come  from  Europe  and  Asia,  while  thousands  of  American 
scholars  find  here  rare  treasures  of  bibliography,  filling  five 
stories  of  the  building,  and  admirably  arranged  in  depart- 
ments,—  standard,  religious,  musical,  French,  German,  legal, 
scientific,  Americana,  and  full  sets  of  magazines.  The  business 
was  founded  in  1836  by  W.  A.  Leary,  and  passed,  in  1865,  to 
his  son,  W.  A.  Leary,  Jr.  Edwin  S.  Stuart,  who  had  entered 
the  store  as  a  boy,  became  manager  in  1871,  and  bought  out 
the  business  in  1875,  since  which  he  has  greatly  extended  its 
operations.  Mr.  Stuart  has  also  taken  a  prominent  part  in 
public  affairs,  and  has  held  several  honorable  offices  prior  to  PHILADELPHIA 
his  election,  in  1891,  as  Mayor  of  Philadelphia. 

Finances.  —  The  aggregate  taxation  of  Pennsylvanians  for  all  purposes  is  $38,000,000 
yearly.  The  State  revenues  are  $7,500,000,  most  of  which  comes  from  taxes  on  the 
$1,200,000,000  stock  and  income  of  local  corporations.  The  funded  debt  draws  3^,  4  and 
5  per  cent,  interest.  Most  of  this  debt  was  incurred  half  a  century  ago,  in  the  development 
of  routes  across  the  Alleghenies.  The  county  and  municipal  debts  exceed  $100,000,000. 

It  is  interesting  to  know  that  the  first  bank  chartered  in  the  United  States  is  still  in 
honored  existence  and  in  active  operation  in  Philadelphia.  It  is  the  well-known  Bank  of 
North  America.  Notwithstanding  the  fact  that  this  bank  was  re-organized  under  the  national 
banking  law  in  1864,  the  word  "National"  does  not  appear  in  its  title.  This  is  in  pur- 
suance of  a  special  arrangement  with  the  Comptroller  of  the  Treasury.  The  bank  has  an 
interesting  history.  It  was  founded  in  the  year  1781,  its  leading  spirit  being  Robert  Morris. 
Its  early  days  were  coeval  with  the  inception  of  the  Republic,  Philadel- 
phia being  at  that  time  the  seat  of  the  National  Government.  The  bank 
was  chartered  by  the  Provincial  Congress,  December  31,  1781,  and  opened 
its  doors  January  7,  1782.  Many  of  the  most  prominent  citizens  of  Phila- 
delphia of  that  day  were  identified  with  the  bank  at  the  outset.  It  was 
first  opened  for  business  in  the  store  of  its  cashier,  Tench  Francis,  on 
Chestnut  Street,  above  Third  Street,  and  in  these  quarters  it  remained  for 
65  years.  In  1847  ^e  commodious  building  which  the  bank  now  occupies 
was  erected  upon  the  same  site.  During  the  late  war  this  bank  was  one  of 
the  first  to  offer  loans  to  the  Government  at  a  low  rate  of  interest,  and  one 
of  the  earliest  subscribers  for  the  bonds  of  the  country.  During  its  exist-  PHILADELPHIA 
ence  for  more  than  a  century  the  Bank  of  North  America  has  had  but  eight  °F  NORTH  AMERICA. 
presidents,  the  present  one  being  John  H.  Michener.  The  centennial  of  the  establishment  of 
the  bank  was  observed  in  the  publication  of  a  history  of  its  career.  It  is  to-day,  as  it  always 
has  been,  a  quiet  and  conservative  institution,  and  in  its  elderly  manner  has  set  a  good  ex- 
ample for  all  financial  and  fiduciary  institutions.  It  is  one  of  the  largest  national  banks  in 
Pennsylvania,  with  resources  of  $7,000,000. 

The  First  National  Bank  in  Philadelphia  is  historical,  as  being  the  first  bank  in  the  United 
States  chartered  under  the  National  Bank  act.  The  bank  commenced  business  in  July,  1863. 
The  original  capital  was  $150,000,  but  this  was  subsequently  increased  to  $1,000,000. 


744 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


PHILADELPHIA  : 
FIRST    NATIONAL    BANK. 


to  which  has 


A  recent  statement  shows  surplus  and  undivided  profits  of  $750,000, 
with  deposits  of  about  $6,000,000,  and  total  resources  exceeding 
$10,000,000.-  The  president  is  George  Philler,  a  well-known 
financier  of  Philadelphia.  The  cashier,  Morton  McMichael,  Jr.,  is 
the  honored  president  of  the  American  Bankers'  Association,  com- 
posed of  nearly  all  the  banks  in  this  country.  The  bank  building  is 
a  large  structure,  60x175  feet,  with  an  imposing  granite  front,  on 
Chestnut  Street.  As  with  some  other  great  Philadelphia  banking 
institutions,  it  was  built  and  is  entirely  occupied  for  the  bank's  own 
business.  From  the  day  of  opening,  the  First  National  Bank  has 
had  an  uninterruptedly  successful  career.  It  has  paid  in  dividends 
over  $3,000,000  ;  and  is  one  of  the  soundest  of  Pennsylvania's 
financial  institutions. 

The  Pennsylvania  Company  for  Insurances  on  Lives  and  Grant- 
ing Annuities  is  the  oldest  trust  company  in  the  United  States.  Incorporated  as  a  life- 
insurance  company  March  10,  1812,  it  was  in  1836,  by  an  act  of  the  Legislature  and  by  vari- 
ous supplements,  given  the  fullest  powers  as  to  the  execution  of  trusts,  authority  being 
given  it  to  act  in  every  kind  of  fiduciary  capacity,  whether  as  trustee,  executor,  adminis- 
trator, committee  in  lunacy,  or  in  any  other  way  whatever.  It  has  also  been  granted  the 
rights  and  powers  of  a  safe-deposit  company,  and  its  vaults  are  a  marvel  in  extent  and 
security.  Ever  since  1836  the  chief  business  of  the  company  has  been  that  of  trusts,  and 
up  to  within  a  recent  date  it  was  the  only  such  company,  not  only  in  Philadelphia,  but  in 
the  United  States.  Its  capital  has  been  gradually  increased  from  $500,000  to  $2,000,000, 
been  added  a  surplus  of  $2,000,000.  It  carries  on  business  in  its 
own  building,  at  517  Chestnut  Street,  immediately  opposite  the 
entrance  to  Independence  Hall.  The  building  is  an  imposing 
one  of  granite,  in  the  Romanesque  style  of  architecture.  It 
covers  a  lot  8 1  feet  front  on  Chestnut  Street,  by  262  feet  deep 
to  Minor  Street.  It  is  five  stories  high  in  front,  and  two  stories 
in  the  rear,  and  in  the  centre  is  a  vast  hall,  lighted  from  above, 
1 20  feet  long  by  80  feet  wide,  and  52  feet  high,  in  which  the 
trust  and  general  business  of  the  company  is  conducted.  The 
whole  of  the  building  is  used  by  the  company,  and  by  it 
alone.  It  was  built  expressly  with  a  view  to  the  needs  of  the 
business,  and  in  this  respect  is  unique  in  its  character.  For 
safety  'of  the  securities  entrusted  to  the  company's  charge, 
and  the  comfort  and  convenience  of  persons  having  business 
with  the  company,  it  has  no  equal.  Some  idea  of  the  ex- 
INSURANCES  tent  °^  tn*s  business  may  be  gained  when  it  is  stated  that  the 
ON  LIVES  AND  GRANTING  ANNUITIES,  rentals  for  real  estate  in  the  company's  charge,  not  includ- 
ing ground-rents,  exceed  $1,000,000  a  year,  while  the  yearly  receipts  from  other  securities, 
held  by  the  company  in  trust,  many  times  exceed  that  amount. 

At  the  corner  of  Broad  and  Chestnut  Streets  stands  the  magnificent  stone  office-building 
of  the  Girard  Life-Insurance,  Annuity  and  Trust  Company.  Its  Roman-arched  portals,  its 
beautiful  tower  and  its  general  appearance  of  combined  massiveness  and  beauty  at  once 
command  the  attention  of  the  visitor,  and  the  building  is  the  pride  of  the  city  resident.  The 
nine  stories  are  fire-proof  throughout,  and  admirably  adapted  for  the  prosecution  of  the 
business  of  the  company,  and  also  of  the  large  and  varied  business  interests  occupying  the 
1 20  offices  on  its  upper  floors.  The  site  of  the  building,  only  100  feet  square,  was  bought 
for  $567,000,  the  highest  price  ever  paid  for  land  in  Philadelphia.  With  one  exception,  the 
Girard  is  the  oldest  trust  company  in  Philadelphia.  It  was  established  in  1836,  and  has  been 
in  successful  operation  ever  since.  Its  capital  is  now  $1,000,000,  fully  paid  in.  It  has  in 


PHILADELPHIA  :    GIRARD  LIFE-INSUR- 
ANCE,   ANNUITY   AND   TRUST    CO. 


THE  STATE   OF  PENNSYLVANIA. 

addition  thereto  a  surplus  fund  of  $2,000,000.  The  Banking  De- 
partment receives  deposits  of  individuals  and  corporations,  and 
allows  interest  at  2  per  cent,  on  daily  balances.  No  commer- 
cial paper  is  discounted,  but  call  loans  are  made  on  approved 
collaterals,  and  collections  are  promptly  made  in  all  parts  of  the 
country.  In  the  Trust  Department  many  large  estates  are  man- 
aged ;  and  the  Real-Estate  Department  is  especially  equipped  for 
the  purchase  and  sale  of  Philadelphia  real-estate.  The  Safe- 
Deposit  Department  is  provided  with  wonderfully-constructed 
vaults,  both  fire  and  burglar-proof,  around  which  constant  in- 
spection is  maintained  night  and  day,  and  absolute  security 
obtained.  The  life-insurance  business  was  abandoned  many 
years  ago;  and  the  attention  of  the  company  is  devoted  entirely 
to  a  trust  and  banking  business  and  allied  interests.  The 
Girard  Company  is  managed  by  gentlemen  of  high  standing  in 
Philadelphia,  and  the  company  is  justly  regarded  as  one  of  the 
most  powerful  and  substantial  institutions  of  the  city  and 
State.  The  President  is  Emngham  B.  Morris  ;  and  the  Vice-president  is  Henry  Tatnall. 

The  preeminent  fiduciary  and  financial  institution  of  Pennsyl- 
vania is  the  Fidelity  Insurance,   Trust  and  Safe-Deposit  Com- 
^aMja-jr^- •-:[--•    r>any  of   Phila<ldpnia-     It   occupies   its  own   beautiful  marble 
\       rj!HJJBJ*S&rl    tlouble  buildinS  on   Chestnut    Street,  which,    notwithstanding 
-<^aW^S    mzH^Kcm    its  heavily-barred  windows,  is  a  striking  ornament  to  the  city. 
The  building  is  supplied  with  huge  vaults,  wonderful  in  their 
construction,  and  filled  with  a  store  of  silver-plate,  jewels,  bonds, 
deeds  and  certificates  on  stock  sufficient  for  more  than  one  king's 
ransom.     No  estimate  can  be  made  of  the  value  of  property  in 
these  vaults.     Their  safety  is  secured  by  ingenious  mechanical 
devices,  and  ever-watching  and  armed  officers,  who  are  compelled 
to  go  through  such  series  of  reports  that  they  can  never  be  absent 
from  their  posts.    But  aside  from  the  safe-deposit  vaults,  for  the 
storage  of  valuables,  the  company  does  a  general  money  deposit 

PHILADELPH.A:  FIDELITY  ,NSURANCE,  and  trust  business,  the  trust  department  being  authorized  by  law 
TRUST  AND  SAFE-DEPOSIT  co.  to  execute  trusts  of  all  descriptions.  It  also  furnishes  letters  of 
credit,  available  in  all  parts  of  Europe.  The  capital  of  $2,000,000  and  surplus  of  $2,000,000 
additional  give  a  wonderful  security  to  all  of  its  operations.  The  gross 
assets  are  over  $16,000,000,  wholly  apart  from  the  trust  department, 
which  by  law  is  kept  absolutely  distinct  from  all  others.  The  success  of 
the  Fidelity  has  made  it  one  of  the  financial  institutions  in  which  all 
Pennsylvanians  take  great  pride. 

Insurance  is  a  flourishing  business  in  Pennsylvania,  which  has  num- 
erous strong  companies  of  her  own,  and  also  local  offices  of  the  foremost 
outside  corporations.  One  of  the  latter,  the  Mutual  Life- Insurance  Co., 
of  New  York,  owns  and  occupies  a  magnificent  granite  building  in  Phil- 
adelphia. 

Life-insurance  is  not  merely  of  financial  but  of  paramount  interest. 
Pennsylvania  has  numerous  fire,  marine  and  life-insurance  companies, 
but  standing  unapproached  by  any  of  these  is  the  Penn  Mutual  Life- 
insurance  Co.,  one  of  the  truest  and  soundest  of  the  life-insurance 
organizations  of  the  world.  The  company  was  organized  in  1847,  and 
during  these  44  years,  in  its  own  conservative  way,  has  made  wonder- 
ful advances,  such  advances  as  could  be  achieved  only  with  the  un-  TUAIr  LIFE-INSURANCE  co. 


746  KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE  UNITED   STATES. 

doubted  confidence  of  the  people.  It  has  net  assets  of  more  than  $16,500,000;  and  has 
paid  death  claims  of  $12,000,000,  and  matured  endowments  of  $1,500,000.  In  1891  it  has 
insurance  outstanding  of  $79,000,000,  an  increase  of  more  than  $12,000,000  in  the  preced- 
ing year.  The  Penn  Mutual  is  absolutely  and  purely  a  mutual  company,  and  is  conducted 
with  a  view  to  secure  for  the  widows  and  families  of  its  policy-holders  the  greatest  possible 
security  at  the  smallest  possible  cost.  In  1891  it  moved  into  its  own  magnificent  building, 
one  of  the  finest  architectural  specimens  of  office-buildings  in  the  United  States,  and  along 
with  its  two  adjacent  edifices,  the  Philadelphia  Record,  and  the  United-States  Post-Office, 
forming  one  of  the  most  noted  architectural  sights  in  the  country. 

Manufactures  have  nearly  quadrupled  since  1860,  and  in  1880  employed  31,332  estab- 
lishments, with  387,072  operatives,  receiving  $134,055,904  yearly,  and  from  $465,020,563 
worth  of  material  turning  out  yearly  a  product  valued  at  $744,813,445  (or  one  seventh  of 
the  entire  American  output).  In  the  six  years,  1 88 1-6  inclusive,  there  were  2,442  strikes  in 
Pennsylvania,  resulting  in  losses  amounting  to  $18,000,000.  Three  fourths  of  the  mechanics 
and  miners  are  Americans.  The  capital  invested  is  $474, 5IO>993-  Half  of  the  glass-works 
of  the  United  States  are  at  Pittsburgh,  where  60  factories  employ  4,000  men  and  produce 
yearly  $5,000,000  worth  of  flint,  lime,  window  and  green  glass.  Of  the  $80,000,000  worth 
of  carpets  and  upholstery  goods  made  in  the  United  States,  a  large  proportion  comes  from 
Philadelphia,  which  has  the  largest  rug-mills  in  the  world.  In  a  single  ward  of  the  city 
more  carpets  are  made  than  in  all  Great  Britain.  Leather  is  prepared  by  333  tanneries,  to  the 
value  of  $24,000,000.  The  lumber  business  centres  largely  at  Williamsport.  A  large  plant 
of  the  American  Wheel  Company  is  operated  at  West  Chester.  The  Friedensville  Zinc 
Mines,  near  Allentown,  have  the  largest  stationary  engine  in  the  world,  called  "The  Presi- 
dent," and  with  its  16  boilers  making  5,000  horse-power.  It  has  the  largest  nut  in  the 
world,  weighing  1, 600  tons,  and  taking  to  tighten  it  20  men,  and  a  wrench  20  feet  long. 
The  immense  iron-furnaces  and  rolling-mills  of  the  Lehigh  Valley  are  at  Allentown,  Cata- 
sauqua,  Hokendauqua  and  elsewhere.  Chester  County  has  profitable  iron-works  at  various 
points.  The  Phoenix  Iron  Company  (of  Phcenixville)  made  the  dome  of  the  U.-S.  Capitol. 
It  employs  1,500  men.  The  Baldwin  Locomotive  Works,  at  Philadelphia,  are  the  largest 
in  the  world,  and  employ  more  than  3,000  men.  They  have  made  more  than  10,000  locomo- 
tives. The  Westinghouse  Air-Brake  Works  and  Electric  Works  are  near  Pittsburgh. 

The  Spreckels'  Sugar  Refinery  in  Philadel- 
phia, one  of  the  largest  in  this  country,  was 
built  under  contract,  at  a  cost  exceeding 
$5,000,000 ;  and  its  construction  has  been  con- 
sidered one  of  the  most  notable  mechanical  and 
building  achievements  of  an  industrial  char- 
acter. Over  18,000,000  bricks  and  over  17,000 
tons  of  iron  were  used.  The  whole  structure, 
is  on  made  land,  and  is  supported  by  about 
PHILADELPHIA  :  SPRECKELS'  SUGAR  REFINERY.  io,ooo  4O-foot  piles.  The  walls  are  34  inches 

thick  on  the  lower  floor.  The  entire  construction  of  these  lofty  and  substantial  brick  build- 
ings was  contracted  for  and  superintended  by  Allen  B.  Rorke,  who  by  the  successful  car- 
rying out  of  this  great  enterprise  won  a  national  reputation  as  an  eminent  contractor  and 
builder.  He  had  previously  earned  a  foremost  position  in  his  line  in  Philadelphia,  where 
he  had  been  the  builder  of  and  contractor  for  many  structures  of  a  notable  character,  includ- 
ing all  of  the  later  buildings  of  Girard  College,  the  Hood,  Bonbright  &  Co.'s  Building,  the 
passenger  railway  depot  on  Second  and  Third  Streets,  the  cold-storage  warehouse  on  Dela- 
ware Avenue,  and  many  others.  Mr.  Rorke  is  not  only  a  successful  builder  and  contractor, 
but  he  has  taken  an  active  part  in  public  life,  for  many  years  being  the  chairman  of  the 
Republican  city  committee.  Although  he  has  been  in  business  only  since  1878,  the  character 
of  his  transactions  places  him  as  the  peer  of  any  building  contractor  in  Philadelphia, 


THE  STATE   OF  PENNSYLVANIA. 


747 


The  enormous  development  of  American  railways  and  immigration  are  partly  attributa- 
ble to  the  invention  of  steel  rails,  in  themselves  cheap  and  durable,  and  allowing  much 
greater  speed  and  weight  of  trains  than  iron  rails.  Wm.  Kelley  made  pneumatic  steel  at  the 
Cambria  Iron  Works  before  Sir  Henry  Bessemer  discovered  his  process ;  and  at  the  same 
place,  Fritz  invented  the  steel  blooming-mill,  which  is  now  in  use  all  over  the  iron  world. 
The  Cambria  Iron  Company,  chartered  in  1852,  finished  its  first  furnace  at  Johnstown,  on 
the  Conemaugh  River,  in  1855;  and  struggled  through  failures  and  fires  until  the  tariff  of 
1 86 1  enabled  it  to  compete  with  England,  and  its  business  then  developed  wonderfully. 
The  huge  Bessemer  plant  was  started  in  1871,  and  has  made  1,000  tons  of  steel  ingots  in 
a  single  day,  including  all  grades  from  soft  wire  stock  to  spring  stock.  The  Gautier  Steel 


JOHNSTOWN  :    THE  CAMBRIA  IRON  WORKS. 


Department  makes  barb  wire,  plough-shares,  merchant  steel  and  shafting,  to  the  extent  of 
50,000  tons  a  year.  In  the  Cambria  Works  8,000  men  are  employed ;  and  they  have  a  fine 
library,  a  hospital,  clubs  and  other  benefits.  Natural  gas  was  introduced  in  1886,  coming 
in  a  pipe,  40  miles  long,  from  the  Westmoreland  fields.  The  company's  works  extend  along 
the  river  at  Johnstown  for  two  miles,  and  they  have  six  blast-furnaces  at  Johnstown,  and 
two  at  Hollidaysburg.  They  own  35  miles  of  railway  tracks,  with  24  locomotives  and 
1,500  cars ;  about  35,000  acres  of  land,  with  mines  producing  800,000  tons  of  coal  a  year  ; 
600  bee-hive  coke-ovens  in  the  Connellsville  region ;  and  large  mines  in  Michigan,  whence 
comes  the  ore  for  the  Bessemer  steel.  The  chief  products  are  heavy  and  light  steel  rails, 
street  and  slot  rails,  blooms,  billets,  axles,  channels,  forgings,  merchant  and  cold-rolled  steel, 
link  barbed  wire,  and  other  articles,  using  yearly  400,060  tons  of  iron  ore,  120,000  tons  of 
limestone,  and  775,000  tons  of  coal.  The  yearly  capacity  is  300,000  tons  of  steel  ingots, 
350,000  tons  of  pig-metal,  200,000  tons  of  steel  rails  and  55,000  tons  of  other  products, 
which  are  used  in  all  parts  of  the  country,  in  countless  ways. 

The  Bethlehem  Iron  Company's  Works,  founded  in  1857,  occupy  a  domain  a  mile  and 
a  quarter  long  and  a  quarter  of  a  mile  wide,  with  20  acres  under  cover,  and  3, 500  operatives. 
They  are  situated  at  South  Bethlehem,  on  the  Lehigh  River,  87  miles  from  New  York 
and  55  from  Philadelphia,  with  several  railroads  connecting  them  with  the  coal  and  iron 
regions,  and  distributing  their  finished  products.  The  plant  has  cost  more  than  $10,000,000. 
The  yearly  output  reaches  450,000  tons  of  steel  rails,  blooms,  billets  and  other  work.  In 
1887  tne  company  began  the  erection  of  an  ordnance  and  armor-plate  department,  long 


SOUTH  BETHLEHEM  :    THE   BETHLEHEM    IRON   COMPANY'S   WORKS. 


748  KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

needed  to  give  the  United  States  the  most  powerful  guns,  shafting  and  armor.  This  is  not 
only  the  foremost  establishment  of  the  kind  in  the  United  States,  but  one  of  the  most  ex- 
tensive and  complete  plants  in  the  world  for  the  production  of  gun-steel,  armor-plate, 
shafting  and  other  war  material.  The  plant  has  been  so  far  developed  as  to  comprise  a 
casting  capacity  of  100  tons,  a  fluid-compression  plant,  a  steam-hammer  of  125  tons  falling 
weight,  and  two  of  the  most  powerful  hydraulic  presses  ever  constructed.  The  tempering 
plant  has  already  treated  forgings  for  12-inch  guns,  and  the  machine-shops  contain  tools  of 
a  capacity  to  machine  forgings  of  any  character  that  have  yet  been  demanded  for  ship  or 
fort  protection.  The  quality  of  its  productions  is  unexcelled.  The  company  has  already 
supplied  or  has  under  contraction  the  shafting  for  the  cruisers  San  Francisco,  Philadelphia, 
Newark,  Cincinnati,  Raleigh,  New  York,  No.  6,  No.  1 1  and  No.  1 2  ;  the  armed  cruiser 
Maine;  the  coast-defense  vessel  Monterey;  the  battleships  Oregon,  Indiana  and  Massa- 
chusetts; the  practice-vessel  for  Naval  Academy  ;  armor  for  the  Puritan,  Texas,  Maine,  Mon- 
terey, Cincinnati,  Raleigh,  Atnphitrite,  Monadnock,  and  Terror;  and  70  complete  sets  of 
heavy  gun-forgings,  including  those  of  12-inch  caliber.  The  company  has  contracted  to 
supply  200  sets  of  gun-forgings,  including  calibers  of  1 3-inch.  This  company,  with  a  capac- 
ity for  the  manufacture  of  pig-iron,  steel  rails  and  merchant  steel  equal  to  the  largest 
establishment  of  the  kind  in  America,  and  having  a  plant  for  the  manufacture  of  armor- 
plate,  steel  gun-forgings,  and  forgings  of  various  kinds,  of  the  largest  size,  the  production 
of  which  has  never  been  attained  in  this  country  before,  may  truly  be  considered  a  type  of 
the  highest  degree  of  development  reached  in  this  line  of  business.  It  has  not  only  laid  the 
corner-stone,  but  is  faithfully  and  rapidly  raising  the  structure  so  vital  to  the  defense  of  the 
wealth  and  population  of  this  vast  country,  and  the  protection  of  its  sea-ports  and  commerce. 

It  was  less  than  a  gener- 
ation ago  that  the  new  pro- 
cpss  of  making  steel,  known 
as  the  Bessemer  process,  was 
invented.  Previous  to  that 
invention,  so  costly  was  the 
process  of  making  steel,  that 
a  steel  rail  was  a  thing  un- 
heard of  and  unthought  of 
by  railroad  managers.  But 

BESSEMER  :  THE  EDGAR  THOMSON  STEEL  WORKS  AND  BLAST-FURNACES.  Vi'lth    the    cheapening    of    the 

manufacture  of  steel  came  this  new  and  grand  idea  which  has  revolutionized  railroad- 
building.  At  first  our  American  railroads  were  obliged  to  import  all  their  steel  rails  from 
Europe,  but  a  protective  tariff  led  to  the  establishment  of  the  industry  in  our  country.  The 
largest  manufactory  of  steel  rails  in  the  United  States  is  the  Edgar  Thomson  Steel  Works 
and  Blast-Furnaces,  at  Bessemer,  1 1  miles  east  of  Pittsburgh.  The  works  are  owned  and 
operated  by  the  association,  Carnegie  Brothers  &  Co.,  Limited,  with  offices  at  Pittsburgh. 
The  Pennsylvania,  Baltimore  &  Ohio  and  Pittsburgh  &  Lake-Erie  Railroads  connect  with 
these  great  works,  and  there  is  also  ample  wharfage  on  the  Monongahela  River,  thus  secur- 
ing all  the  advantages  for  both  rail  and  river  transportation.  The  works  occupy  an  area  of 
160  acres,  15  of  which  are  covered  with  buildings.  Something  of  their  enormous  produc- 
tive power  may  be  imagined,  when  it  is  known  that  the  output  each  day  of  finished  rails, 
weighing  65  pounds  to  the  yard,  is  sufficient  to  lay  twelve  miles  of  single  track.  When  the 
nine  blast-furnaces  are  all  in  operation,  the  daily  production  of  metals  is  over  2,000  tons  ; 
a  recent  aVerage  for  one  month  showing  2,055  tons  daily.  The  plant  is  designed  and 
arranged  specially  for  the  manufacture  of  Bessemer  steel,  for  conversion  into  rails,  the 
molten  iron  being  converted  directly  into  steel,  instead  of  cast  into  pigs  and  re-melted  in 
cupolas.  The  number  of  employees  engaged  constantly  is  3, 500,  representing  a  population 
of  fully  10,000  people.  The  association,  Carnegie  Brothers  &  Co.,  Limited,  is  the 


THE  STATE  OF  PENNSYLVANIA. 


749 


MUNHALL  STATION   :    THE  HOMESTEAD  STEEL  WORKS. 


proprietor  not  only  of  the 
Edgar  Thomson  works,  but 
also  of  the  Duquesne  Steel 
Works  (formerly  the  Alle- 
gheny Bessemer  Steel  Com- 
pany), the  Youghiogheny 
Coke  Works,  the  Larimer 
Coke  Works  and  the  Scotia 
Ore  Mines.  The  Carnegie 
Homestead  Steel  Works 
have  some  of  the  largest  rolls 
in  the  world  for  making 
armor  -  plate,  and  powerful 
3, 300- ton  hydraulic  shears  for  cutting  steel  plates.  They  are  at  Munhall,  and  cover  80  acres, 
employing  2,200  men,  making  nearly  400,000  tons  of  steel  a  year.  Carnegie,  Phipps  &  Co. 
are  the  proprietors.  In  1891  they  contracted  with  the  United-States  Government  to  make 
for  its  new  battle-ships  and  cruisers  6,000  tons  of  nickel-steel  armor,  valued  at  $3,600,000. 
The  Pennsylvania  Steel  Company  was  the  first  corporation  organized  in  America  for 
making  steel  by  the  pneumatic  process.  The  first  blow  was  made  in  the  Steelton  works, 
May  5,  1867,  the  ingots  being  rolled  by  the  Cambria  Iron  Company,  and  the  rails  de- 
livered to  the  Pennsylvania  Railroad  Company.  One  or  two  iron-works  had  previously  ex- 
perimented with  the  new  process  and  produced  some  metal,  but  these  were  the  first  steel 
rails  ever  manufactured  in  this  country  on  an  order  in  the  regular  course  of  business.  In 
1868  the  company  started  a  rail-mill,  and  in  1869  a  1 5-ton  hammer.  The  works  at  Steelton 
have  been  increased  from  year  to  year  by  the  erection  of  blast-furnaces,  Bessemer  and  open- 
hearth  plants,  blooming,  merchant  and  billet  mills,  forges  and  repair-shops,  until  now  they 
cover  1 80  acres  and  employ  4,200  men,  with  a  yearly  capacity  of  360,000  tons  of  steel 
ingots,  which  are  rolled  into  heavy,-  light  and  street  rails,  open-hearth  and  Bessemer  slabs, 
blooms,  billets,  forgings  and  merchant  steel.  The  works  also  have  a  department  for  bridge- 
building  and  general  construction,  and  one  for  making  frogs,  switches  and  signals.  In  1883 
the  company,  in  partnership  with  the  Bethlehem  Iron  Company,  bought  extensive  ore  lands 
in  southeastern  Cuba.  It  is  now  still  further  enlarging  its  field  of  work  by  a  new  and  ex- 
tensive plant  at  Sparrow's  Point,  Maryland.  A  ship-yard  was  put  in  operation  in  1890. 


STEELTON  :    THE    PENNSYLVANIA    STEEL    COMPANY. 

Pittsburgh  makes  almost  everything  in  iron,  from  a  tack  or  a  watch-spring  to  a  2O-ton 
cannon  or  a  steamboat.  It  has  the  largest  table-ware  factory  in  the  world,  and  the  fore- 
most Bessemer-steel  plant  in  America.  Rolling-mills  and  puddling-furnaces  were  estab- 
lished in  1819  ;  and  ten  years  later  the  city  had  nine  rolling-mills  and  nine  nail-factories. 
Foundries  started  here  as  early  as  1806.  Now,  the  iron  and  steel  industries  are  of  tre- 
mendous importance,  value  and  diversity,  and  furnish  metal  supplies  to  a  great  part  of  the 
continent,  in  thousands  of  articles. 


75° 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED  STATES. 


PITTSBURGH  \    KEYSTONE    BRIDGE    COMPANY. 


One  of  the  most  famous  corporations  f 
of  engineers  and  contractors  in  the  world 
is  the  Keystone  Bridge  Company,  of 
Pittsburgh,  which  manufactures  steel, 
iron  and  combination  bridges,  viaducts, 
buildings  and  roofs,  wrought-iron  turn- 
tables, steel  and  iron  eye-bars,  buckled 
plates  and  other  iron  and  steel  articles. 
This  active  and  successful  concern  was 
founded  in  1863,  and  has  a  paid-in  capi- 
tal of  $700,000.  The  branch-houses  are 
at  New  York  and  Chicago.  The  Keystone  Bridge  Company  has  built  some  of  the  mosi 
important  structures  in  its  line  in  all  America,  including  the  wonderful  Eads  Bridge, 
at  St.  Louis ;  the  Cincinnati  Southern  Railway  Bridge,  across  the  Ohio  River,  at  Cincin 
nati;  the  beautiful  and  graceful  bridges  across  the  Missouri,  at  Plattsmouth,  Blair  anc 
Kansas  City ;  the  Madison-Avenue  Bridge,  over  the  Harlem  River,  at  New- York  City ;  tin 
bridge  across  the  Ohio  River  at  Henderson  ;  the  Arthur-Kill  Bridge ;  bridges  across  th< 
Mississippi  at  Minneapolis  and  St.  Paul ;  the  Susquehanna-River  Bridge,  at  Havre  de  Grace 
the  Ohio  Connecting  Bridge,  near  Pittsburgh,  whose  channel-span,  525  feet  long,  waserectei 
on  pontoons,  and  floated  into  position,  and  many  great  train-sheds  and  other  structures. 

Pittsburgh  and  the  region  around  is,  as  all  th< 
world  knows,  noted  for  its  immense  and  numeroui 
furnaces  and  iron-working  establishments.  Indeed 
above  the  city  constantly  hovers  a  cloud  of  dens< 
smoke,  which  often  obscures  the  rays  of  the  sun 
Many  of  these  great  establishments  are  of  the  mos 
wonderful  interest,  covering,  as  they  do,  many  acre; 
of  land  and  employing  small  armies  of  workmen 
One  of  the  most  important  of  them  is  the  Olivei 

PITTSBURGH  :    OLIVER    .RON  A  STEEL  CO.  IrQn    &    gteel   Co<  y    whose    plants  at    Pittsburgh   am 

Allegheny  City  cover  35  acres  and  employ  3, 500  workmen.  The  annual  pay-roll  approach® 
$2,000,000.  The  product  of  these  works  comprises  structural  iron  and  steel  for  building! 
and  bridges,  rolled  and  riveted  beams  and  channels,  bolts  of  all  kinds,  and  their  grea1 
specialty  of  wagon  hardware.  Another  specialty  of  manufacture  is  soft  steel,  to  displace 
the  better  grades  of  iron.  In  this  the  company  has  been  very  successful,  producing  ai 
article  in  steel  that  is  like  the  best  Norway  iron,  welding  readily  and  standing  the  sam< 
physical  tests  as  the  higher  and  better  grades  of  Swed- 
ish and  Norway  iron.  This  grade  of  steel  is  used  en- 
tirely in  the  manufacture  of  carriage  and  other  bolts, 
and  railway-car  coupling-links,  and  for  similar  pur- 
poses ;  and  so  great  are  the  company's  facilities  for 
this  production  that  the  articles  are  sold  at  the  same 
price  at  which  those  made  from  ordinary  iron  are  sold.  PITTSBURGH  :  OLIVER  IRON  &  STEEL  co. 

Much  of  the  fuel  used  is  natural  gas,  brought  fron 
the  Belle-Vernon  district,  through  the  Oliver  Iron  & 
Steel  Company's  own  pipe-line. 

It  was  in  1840  and  in  1841  that  the  energetic,  far- 
seeing  men  of  Pennsylvania  began  to  cast  looks  o! 
intelligence  toward  the  copper  regions  of  Lake  Su- 
perior. It  became  known  that  in  far-off  Michigan  were 
large  deposits  of  copper,  but  the  idea  of  mining  it  in 
PITTSBURGH  :  OLIVER  IRON  &  STEEL  co.  what  was  then  a  wilderness  seemed  to  many  to  be 


THE  STATE  OF  PENNSYLVANIA. 


751 


visionary.  At  length,  however,  a  party  of  Pitts- 
burgh men  resolved  to  embark  in  the  enterprise, 
and  in  1845  tne  Pittsburgh  &  Boston  Mining 
Co.  was  formed.  Its  leading  spirits  were  Dr. 
C.  G.  Hussey  and  Charles  Avery,  of  the  Pitts- 
burgh firm  of  C.  G.  Hussey  &  Co.  This  ven- 
ture proved  profitable,  and  then  it  was  decided 
by  these  gentlemen  to  start  a  copper  rolling-  PITTSBURGH  :  c.  G.  HUSSEY  &  co. 

mill  in  Pittsburgh,  which  should  work  the  product  of  the  Michigan  mines.  The  smelting 
works  of  the  Pittsburgh  &  Boston  Mining  Co.  were  already  established  here.  In  1849  tne 
mill  was  built  and  started  up,  and  has  been  in  successful  operation  since.  Dr.  Hussey  con- 
tinues the  head  of  the  firm,  having  survived  his  early  partners,  and  associated  with  him  some 
years  ago  Nicholas  Veeder  and  Edward  T.  Dravo,  for  a  long  time  identified  with  the  busi- 
ness. To-day  the  concern  is  one  of  the  largest  in  its  line  in  the  country.  Its  plant  covers 
four  acres  on  the  banks  of  the  Monongahela  River.  Employment  is  given  to  90  persons. 
The  product  of  the  mill  is  rolled  copper,  of  all  sizes  and  shapes,  copper  vessels,  copper 
bottoms,  bars,  sheets  and  other  similar  goods.  The  company  has  received  numerous 
awards  from  expositions  ;  and  to-day  is  regarded  as  one  of  the  leading  houses  of  the  country 
in  planished  copper  and  rolled  copper  of  all  forms  and  sizes.  Besides  copper  in  its  various 
forms,  C.  G.  Hussey  &  Co.  are  extensive  makers  of  brass  kettles. 

It  is  not  alone  in  heavy  products  of  iron  that  Pennsylvania  has  gained  a  celebrity.  As 
long  ago  as  1840  a  demand  arose  for  good  American-made  saws.  There  was  no  reason  why 
they  might  not  be  produced  in  this  country,  especially  in  view  of  the  great  advances  which 
were  constantly  being  made  in  methods  of  manufacturing  steel.  In  1840  Henry  Disston 
determined  to  see  what  could  be  done  in  this  line  of  manufacture.  Accordingly,  he  founded 
a  plant  for  the  production  of  saws,  at  Philadelphia,  which  was  removed  in  1884  to  Tacony, 
a  flourishing  suburb  of  Philadelphia,  on  the  Delaware  River.  Like  all  similar  enterprises 
which  have  American  pluck  and  energy  behind  them,  it  was  a  success  beyond  the  expecta- 
tions of  the  founder.  To-day  the  saw-works  of  Henry  Disston  &  Sons  cover  38  acres  and 
employ  1,900  persons.  Saws  of  every  kind  and  description  are  produced,  from  the  most 
delicate  key-hole  saw  to  .the  huge  circular  saw,  which  will  split  an  immense  log  from  the 
Maine  forest  into  boards  almost  in  the  twinkling  of  an  eye.  The  firm  produces  large 
quantities  of  steel,  and  also  tools  for  keeping  saws  in  order,  trowels,  carpenters'  squares, 
bevels,  levels,  files  and  other  tools  in  every-day  use.  The  product  of  the  Disston  works  has 
a  reputation  co -extensive  with  the  boundaries  of  America.  The  Disston  saws  have  been 
awarded  gold  medals,  not  only  at  the  Centennial  Exposition  of  1876,  but  at  the  Paris  Ex- 
position of  1878,  the  Ger- 
man Exposition  of  1881, 
and  the  Australian  Exposi- 
tion of  1888.  Among  the 
inventions  and  special  ap- 
pliances controlled  by  the 
company  are  machinery  and 
implements  for  grinding, 
hardening  and  tempering 
saws.  The  Disstons  are 
everywhere  recognized  as 
the  preeminent  saw  manu- 
facturers of  this  country. 

All  machines  for  turning, 
planing  or  drilling,  in  which 
TACONY  :  HENRY  DISSTON  *  SONS,  the  cutting  edge  is  guided 


752 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


PHILADELPHIA  :     WILLIAM    SELLERS    &    CO. 


by  mechanical  means  are  called  "machine  tools."  The  term  is  broad,  and  includes  all 
machines  that  work  or  shape  metal,  steam  hammers,  forging  machines  and  the  like.  The 
manufacture  of  such  tools  has  now  become  a  distinct  branch  of  industry.  The  Philadelphia 

house  of  Bancroft  &  Sellers,  now  William  Sel- 
lers &  Co.,  Incorporated,  was  the  pioneer  in 
this  industry  in  America.  The  firm  began 
operations  in  1848.  Their  shops  were  small 
and  inconvenient,  and  were  located  in  that  por- 
tion of  the  city  known  as  Kensington.  Their 
reputation  increased  rapidly.  In  1853  they  re- 
moved to  new  buildings  erected  on  the  square 
bounded  by  i6th  and  I7th  Streets,  Pennsyl- 
vania Avenue  and  Hamilton  Street.  The  new 
location  was  then  in  the  outskirts  of  the  city, 
but  the  city  has  since  grown  up  around  it  and 
for  miles  beyond.  The  neighborhood  is  his- 
toric with  memories  of  Hamilton,  of  Abigail  Adams,  and  of  others  whose  names  occur  in 
the  early  history  of  our  country.  Large  additions  to  their  shops  have  been  made  since  that 
time  to  meet  their  constantly  increasing  business.  The  Sellers  establishment  has  now  a 
world-wide  reputation  for  the  manufacture  of  machine  tools,  including  power  cranes  of  the 
greatest  capacity,  and  railway  turntables  and  other  similar  needs  in  the  equipment  of  rail- 
roads. The  highest  encomiums  of  experts  in  this  country  and  in  Europe  have  been  given  to 
the  product  of  the  Sellers  works.  In  reality,  this  concern  has  placed  America  far  in  advance 
of  all  other  nations  in  the  production  of  machine  tools,  in  recognition  of  which  William 
Sellers  was  honored  at  Paris  with  the  Cross  of  the  Legion  of  Honor.  Many  wonderful  in- 
ventions have  been  made  at  these  works,  the  fame  r — 
of  which  extends  to  all  civilized  countries.  Wil-  I 
liam  Sellers  &  Co.,  Incorporated,  employ  650  men, 
and  have  an  annual  pay-roll  of  $400,000. 

Among  the  great  ironmasters  of  the  last  gen- 
eration, the  founders  of  the  wonderful  development 
of  Pennsylvania  as  a  metal-manufacturing  State  of 
the  first  magnitude,  no  name  stood  brighter  than 
that  of  Garrison,  which  was  borne  by  five  brothers, 
each  of  whom  made  his  mark  in  the  iron  industry  PITTSBURGH  :  A.  GARRISON  FOUNDRY  co. 

of  America.  From  this  notable  family  came  the  establishment  of  the  A.  Garrison  Foundry, 
the  first  to  be  started  in  Pittsburgh,  and  now  for  nearly  a  century  in  continuous  and  profit- 
able operation.  At  one  time  the  main  business  was  stoves ;  now  its  chief  product  is  the 
ponderous  rolls  used  in  rolling-mills,  and  whose  use  has  revolutionized  the  art  of  metal- 
working.  Some  of  the  largest  rolls  ever  made  have  been  prepared  at  this  foundry,  together 
with  a  vast  number  which  have  done  valuable  service  in  rail-mills  and  other  iron-works,  and 
wherever  tremendous  or  accurate  iron  rolls  are  utilized,  the  product  of  this  foundry  being 
regarded  throughout  this  country  as  the  highest  standard.  The  president  of  the  A.  Garrison 

Foundry  Co.  is  John  A.  Rickettson,  a  graduate 
of  Harvard  University,  and  one  of  Pittsburgh's 
well-known  citizens. 

One  of  the  most  notable  manufacturing  plants 
of  Philadelphia  is  that  of  George  V.  Cresson, 
whose  shafting  works  at  the  corner  of  1 8th  Street 
and  Allegheny  Avenue  are  by  far  the  finest  in 
their  line  in  the  whole  country.  The  business 
PHILADELPHIA  :  GEORGE  v.  CRESSON 's  WORKS.  was  established  in  1859  by  the  present  proprietor. 


THE  STATE   OF  PENNSYLVANIA. 


753 


PHILADELPHIA  :    ENTERPRISE    MANUFACTURING   CO. 


It  comprises  machine-shops,  foundry  and  pattern  and  blacksmith  shops,  and  employs  about 
250  men.  The  product  of  these  admirably  constructed  works  comprises  shafting,  couplings, 
hangers,  pulleys,  and  power  transmitting  machinery  of  every  description.  Many  of  the  latest 
and  most  important  improvements  in  couplings,  pulleys  and  other  similar  machinery  have 
originated  in  these  works,  which  comprise  almost  a  little  village  by  themselves.  A  specialty 
of  the  house  is  that  of  designing  and  fitting  out 
electric-light  plants,  and  building  complete  power 
plants  from  original  designs.  This  house  is  also 
known  as  the  Philadelphia  Shafting  Works,  the 
city  being  recognized  as  headquarters  in  this  indus- 
try, to  the  fame  of  which  the  good  work  of  George 
V.  Cresson  has  added  a  considerable  share. 

There  are  many  even  in  these  later  days  who 
insist  that  a  good  cup  of  coffee  cannot  be  made  in 
the  house  which  has  no  coffee-mill.  So  wide- 
spread is  this  belief  that  the  Enterprise  Manufac- 
turing Company,  of  Philadelphia,  foresaw  a  great 
industry  in  making  a  specialty  of  its  manufacture, 
and  their  grinding  mills,  the  "Enterprise,"  have  become  indispensable  utensils  in  hundreds 
of  thousands  of  homes.  The  "Enterprise"  mills  may  also  be  used  for  spices,  and  are 
equally  well  adapted  to  the  uses  of  farmers,  grocers  and  others.  But  of  all  useful  house- 
hold articles  designed  to  lessen  the  cares  of  the  housewife  and  the  much-abused  and  abusing 
domestic,  the  Enterprise  meat-chopper  deserves  special  mention.  It  cuts  raw  or  cooked 
meat  equally  well,  and  may  be  easily  adapted  to  chop  coarse  or  fine.  For  rapidity,  uniform- 
ity and  nicety  of  chopping  it  is  unexcelled.  Mrs.  Potts'  cold  handle  sad  irons,  familiar  to 
the  great  majority  of  housekeepers,  are  made  by  the  same  company.  The  factories  rank 
among  the  best  in  the  country,  and  the  numerous  processes  of  production  of  these  and  other 
specialties  are  gone  through,  by  means  of  ingenious  devices  and  simple  arrangements  that 
effect  low  cost,  as  well  as  insuring  good  goods.  The  Enterprise  Manufacturing  Company 
has  been  exceptionally  successful,  but  the  success  has  resulted  from  merit. 

There  are  many  men  of  the  present  day  who  well  remember  when  all  bolts,  nuts,  wash- 
ers and  kindred  articles  were  made  wholly  by  hand.  When  such  articles  made  by  machinery 
were  first  offered  they  met  with  little  favor.  They  came  gradually  into  use,  however,  but 
when  coid-pressed  nuts  were  offered  there  arose  a  clamor  against  them  which  was  only 
allayed  by  a  scientific  test,  which  was  decided  in  favor  of  the  superiority  of  the  cold-punched 

nut.     The  pioneers  in  these  advances  in  iron  manu- 
facture were  Hoopes  &  Townsend,  of  Philadelphia. 
!     Their  works,  probably  the  largest  of  the  kind  in  the 
United  States,  are  situated  just  off  Broad  Street,  on 
I     Buttonwood  Street,  west  of  Thirteenth  Street,  and 
include  nearly  two  entire  blocks.     Besides  the  Phila- 
|     delphia  plant,  they  operate  a  large  plant  at  Wilming- 
B     ton  (Del.)     In  the  various  shops  about  750  hands 
find  employment.     A  large  amount  of  labor-saving  ma- 
chinery, of  the  most  approved  sort,  is  used,  and  thus  a 
large  product  is  turned  out  at  a  comparatively  small  cost. 
Nuts  of  every  sort,  bolts,  wood  screws  and  rivets  are  made 
here,  and  wherever  these  products  have  been  exhibited 
they  harve  carried  off  the  highest  honors.    Hoopes  &  Town- 
send  is  another  of  the  old  and  solid  manufacturing  con- 
cerns of  Pennsylvania,  having  been  founded  in  1849,  by 
the  present  senior  partner  of  the  firm,  who  is  still  active  in  its  management. 


PHILADELPHIA  :     HOOPES 


754 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


PHILADELPHIA  : 
N.    &    G.   TAYLOR    CO. 


The  foremost  American  house  in  the  importing  and  sale  of  bright  tin  and  roofing  tin  is  the 
N.  &  G.  Taylor  Co.,  founded  in  the  old  Kensington  district  of  Philadelphia  in  1810.  The 
early  partners  came  from  Connecticut,  their  forefathers  having 
fought  in  the  Revolutionary  War.  Wm.  Taylor,  one  of  the 
original  founders,  figured  prominently  in  the  War  of  1812. 
The  grandsons  are  the  present  members  of  the  firm,  which 
has  passed  through  three  generations  of  the  same  family. 
The  business  has  grown  enormously,  until  now  the  products 
are  known  everywhere,  and  its  "Old  Style"  brand  of  roofing 
tin  and  other  goods  have  received  many  medals  and  awards  of 
merit,  and  the  continual  favor  of  patrons.  The  firm  has 
always  been  fully  alive  to  the  requirements  of  its  position, 
and  has  taken  out  patents  for  many  improvements  in  tinners' 
tools  and  machines.  They  have  also  received  American  and 
English  patents  for  improvements  in  the  manufacture  of  tin- 
plates,  and  for  certain  kinds  and  sizes.  The  firm  was  promi- 
nent in  1871  in  fostering  the  American  Steamship  Line,  the  only 
transatlantic  line  sailing  under  the  American  flag,  and  whose  four  original  steamships  are 
still  running.  They  were  among  the  prime  movers  of  the  great  Centennial  Exposition,  and 
have  always  been  closely  allied  to  everything  tending  to  the  advancement  of  their  city's 
greatness.  N.  &  G.  Taylor  Co.'s  special  brand  of  roofing  tin,  the  "Old  Style,"  covers  old 
Independence  Hall,  the  birth-place  of  Liberty,  and  there  is  not  a  city  in  the  Union  that 
has  not  secured  benefits  in  its  use. 

Pennsylvania,  so  famous  for  its  iron  and  for  its  coal,  finds  one  of  its  chief  claims  to  dis- 
tinction as  an  industrial  State,  in  its  numerous  and  varied  iron-working  establishments. 
, , ,     Among  these  the  plant  of  the  Link-Belt  Engi- 
neering Company  is  of  notable  distinction.   This 
company  takes  its  name  from  the  unique  and 
valuable  "  Ewart  "  detachable  link-belt,  a  sub- 
stitute in  malleable  iron  for  the  various  forms  of 
flat   belting   in   common    use.       Link  -  belting, 
though  made    of    iron,  is  in  many  cases  even 
PHILADELPHIA  (NicETowN) :  lighter  than  the  leather  or  rubber  belting  for 

which  it  is  an  equivalent  in  transmitting  -power, 

and  has  come  to  be  recognized  as  a  staple  article,  being  extensively  employed  in  the  equip- 
ment of  coal-mines,  flour-mills,  grain-elevators,  paper-mills,  sugar-refineries  and  other 
manufactories,  both  as  a  transmitter  of  power  and  for  elevating  and  conveying.  The  Link- 
belt  Company  designs  and  furnishes  machinery  for  the  handling  of  any  materials,  either  in 
bulk  or  in  package,  and  for  the  transmission  of  power  by  means  of  link-belting,  and  all 
other  approved  machinery.  Among  its  closely-allied  concerns  are  the  Link-Belt  Machinery 
Company,  of  Chicago,  and  the  Dodge  Coal  Storage  Company,  of  Philadelphia,  whose 
system  and  apparatus  for  the  handling  and  storing  of  coal,  have  obtained  high  endorse- 
ments. The  principal  works  of  the  company,  and  its  main  office,  are  at  Nicetown,  in  the 
suburbs  of  Philadelphia.  The  Dodge  system  is  illustrated  in  the  New- York  chapter.  The  im- 
mense plant  in  operation  at  Rondout  well  illustrates  the  most  efficient  and  economical  device 
ever  invented  for  handling  vast  quantities  of  coal  from  vessels  or  cars,  and  properly  storing  it. 

Every  traveller  has  marvelled  at  the  intricate 
interlocking  systems  of  signals  which  are  so 
often  seen  at  important  railway  junctions. 
Many  of  the  most  ingenious  and  efficient  of 
these  are  the  work  of  the  Wharton  Railroad 
Switch  Company,  of  Philadelphia,  which  makes  JENKINTOWN  ;  WHARTON  RAILROAD  SWITCH  COMPANY. 


THE  STATE   OF  PENNSYLVANIA, 


755 


PHILADELPHIA  I    THE   J.   G.    BRILL    COMPANY. 


a  specialty  of  mechanical  and  electric  interlocking  and  block  signal  systems.  The  works  of 
this  company  are  at  Jenkintown,  and  the  principal  office  is  in  Philadelphia.  In  addition  to 
the  signal  systems,  this  company  is  a  large  manufacturer  of  heavy  tools  for  the  use  of 
machinists  and  manufacturers.  Not  only  this,  but  it  is  the  manufacturer  of  the  well-known 
Wootten  locomotive,  an  extremely  powerful  contrivance,  that  has  proven  of  very  exceptional 
value  in  all  up-grade  or  heavy  locomotive  work.  The  Wharton  Company  also  make  every 
variety  of  track  supplies,  and  are  well-known  to  the  railway  corporations  all  over  the 

country,  from  the  excellence  of 
their  goods,  and  the  singular  in- 
genuity of  the  inventions  which 
they  control. 

About  twelve  acres  of  land  at 
62d  Street  and  Woodland  Ave- 
nue, and  at  the  junction  of  the 
P.,  W.  &  B.  and  the  B.  &  O.  lines 
of  railway,  in  Philadelphia,  are 
covered  by  the  recently  construct- 
ed car-works  of  the  J.  G.  Brill 
Company.  This  corporation  manufactures  railway  and  tramway  cars  of  almost  every  variety. 
Its  specialties  are  tram-cars  for  horse,  electric,  or  cable  railways,  and  light  suburban  rail- 
way cars.  Parties  introducing  new  types  of  cars  almost  invariably  are  led  to  seek  this 
company  for  the  execution  of  their  ideas.  With  this  company  originated  the  present  type 
of  electric  motor  trucks,  so  widely  in  use  on  electric  railways ;  and  also  many  mechanical 
devices  for  motor  suspension  and  handling  secondary  batteries.  New  types  of  running  gears 
and  grip  trucks  for  cable  railways  have  also  been  originated  by  this  company.  It  was  the 
first  corporation  to  build  a  sleeping-car  for  a  horse-railway,  and  some  of  these  cars  are  in 
use  in  South  America,  where  the  locomotive  power  is  horseflesh,  instead  of  steam,  on  the 
long  journeys  into  the  interior  countries.  About  600  persons  are  given  employment  at  the 
Brill  works,  and  the  yearly  pay-roll  approximates  $300,000.  The  J.  G.  Brill  Company  have 
the  finest  shops  in  this  industry,  and  probably  manufacture  more  tram-cars  than  any  other 
concern  in  America.  There  is  hardly  a  city  in  the  country  having  street-railways  that  is 
without  some  of  the  Brill  cars. 

Not  all  of  Philadelphia's  most  successful  business-houses  have  been  long  established. 
Some  of  these  planted  within  a  comparatively  few  years  have  succeeded  wonderfully,  and 
are  now  widely  known  throughout  the  country.  It  was  in  1874  that  it  became  apparent  in 
many  towns  and  cities  where  no  gas-works  existed  that  some  better  method  than  the  use  of 
coal-oil  was  needed  for  the  lighting  of  streets  and  squares.  The  outcome  of  this  need  was 
the  Pennsylvania  Globe  Gas  Light  Company,  the  president  of 
which  is  William  L.  Elkins.  It  supplies  gas-lights  for  both 
street  and  house  lighting,  made  from  naphtha  or  gasoline,  by 
means  of  patent  gasoline  burners  and  gas  machines.  The 
system  of  this  company  was  the  first  departure  from  the  old 
coal-oil  method  of  lighting,  and  it  has  been  universally  success- 
ful. The  advent  of  the  new  burners  worked  a  revolution  in 
the  method  of  lighting  many  of  the  cities  of  the  country.  The 
company  has  now  plants  in  more  than  150  cities  and  towns. 
The  products  of  the  works,  which  are  at  22,  24  and  26  South 
Fifteenth  Street,  Philadelphia,  consists  of  gas-machines,  street  and  car  lamps,  headlights 
and  gasoline  torches.  The  company  also  takes  contracts  for  building  gas  and  waterworks. 
Its  street-lighting  burners  and  apparatus  and  gas  machines  have  been  awarded  premiums 
at  several  expositions.  The  Pennsylvania  Globe  Gas  Light  Company  is  the  parent  com- 
pany of  many  local  town-lighting  organizations. 


PHILADELPHIA  I    THE  PENNSYLVANIA 
GLOBE  GAS   LIGHT    COMPANY. 


MCKEESPORT  :   THE  NATIONAL  TUBE  WORH 


756  KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

One  of  the  colossal  concerns 
which  make  Pennsylvania  fa- 
mous is  the  National  Tube 
Works  Company,  which  has  its 
manufactory  at  McKeesport. 
This  is  the  greatest  wrought- 
iron  pipe  works  in  the  world. 
The  tubes  which  this  company 
turns  out  comprise  every  variety 
of  wrought-iron  pipe,  for  steam, 
gas  or  water,  boiler  tubes,  and 
pipes  or  tubes  used  for  artesian,  salt,  oil  or  gas  wells.  It  is  claimed  that  half  of  all  the 
wrought-iron  pipe  made  in  this  country  is  the  product  of  these  works.  The  product  of  the 
McKeesport  plant  also  includes  rods  and  columns  used  in  mines,  grate-bars,  hand-rails, 
telegraph  poles,  gas  and  air-brake  cylinders,  injectors,  drill-rods  and  scores  of  other  similar 
goods.  The  works  have  had  a  stupendous  growth,  the  first  building  having  been  erected  in 
1872.  The  mill  was  started  with  only  one  furnace,  but  a  second  was  required  within  three 
months  ;  and  others  followed  rapidly.  The  total  acreage  of  the  works  is  nearly  40,  about 
29  acres  being  under  roof.  The  company  was  among  the  first  to  use  natural  gas  for  fuel  in 

the  manufacture  of  iron.     The  gas  is  the  product  of 
the  company's   own  wells,  and  is  brought   through    20 
miles  of  pipe  to  the  works.     The  National  Tube  Works 
Company  was  originally  an  institution  of  Boston,  where 
its  treasurer's  offices  still  remain.     It  has  branch-houses 
at   Boston,    New  York,    Philadelphia,    Pittsburgh, 
St.  Louis  and  Chicago.     While  the  stock  capital  is 
$2,500,000,  the  plants  and  properties  of  the  com- 
pany are  valued  at  more  than  double  that  sum. 

Although  lard,  linseed  and  other  manufactured 
oils  are  made  at   Pittsburgh,  yet  by  the  term  "oil 
trade"   is  usually  meant  the  business  in  crude   or   re- 
fined petroleum.    From  1859  to  1884  there  were  38,000 
wells  drilled  in  the  oil-regions  of  Western  Pennsylvania. 
The  total  cost  of  these  wells  was  $  1 70,000,000.    During 
the  25  years  following  there  was  a  total  production  of 
10,000,000,000  gallons,  or  244,000,000  barrels,  or  over  1 
I,  loo  barrels  for  every  hour  for  all  the  days  and  nights 
of  a  quarter  of  a  century.   This  tremendous  flowage 
has  brought  up  trade  in  a  number  of  germane  indus- 
tries, notably  among  which  is  the  Oil  Well  Supply 
Company,  Limited,  of  Pittsburgh,  under  the  presi- 
dency of  John  Eaton,  whose  name  is  at  the  head  of  the 
great  Eaton,  Cole  &  Burnham  Co.  of  Connecticut, 
the  two  corporations  being  very  closely  allied.      In 
the  oil-well  supply  the  increase  of   business  is  well-nigh 
incalculable,  and  includes  all  the  machinery,  apparatus 

^  m  |    and  appliances  for  boring,  piping,  barrelling,  loading,  re- 

jfi     fi'  M    fining  and  shipping  oils  in  packages  or  in  tank-cars  and 

for  conveying  oil  from   the  wells  to  storage-tanks  and 
refineries.     The  Oil  Well  Supply  Company,  Limited,  of 
Pittsburgh,  which  has  a  capital  stock  of  $500,000,  con- 
PITTSBURGH  :  OIL  WELL  SUPPLY  co.  ducts  branches  at  Oil  City,  Bradford,  Washington,  Butler, 


THE  STATE   OF  PENNSYLVANIA. 


757 


PHCENIX    GLASS    CO. 


Warren,  North  Clarendon,  Eldred,  all  of  Pennsyl- 
vania ;  at  New- York  City  and  Bolivar,  New  York  ; 
Lima,  Van  Wert,  Cygnet  and  Marietta,  of  Ohio, 
forming  in  fact  the  foremost  house  in  this  industry. 
Pennsylvania  early  gained  the  lead  in  the  glass 
manufacture,  and  has  kept  it.  Some  of  the  most 
elegant  table  glass-ware  is  the  product  of  her  fac- 
tories. The  Phoenix  Glass  Company,  has  its  head- 
quarters a  few  miles  from  Pittsburgh,  at  its  factor- 
ies in  Phillipsburg.  The  works  cover  two  acres, 
and  700  persons  are  employed.  The  chief  product  is  rich  cut-glass  table-ware,  of  the  highest 
grade  only,  equal  to  the  products  of  the  best  European  factories.  T  his  ware  is  distributed 
throughout  the  country  ;  and  is  exported  in  large  quantities  abroad.  The  pitchers,  carafes 
and  rose-bowls  produced  are  marvels  of  skill  and  beauty.  Other  specialties  are  the  beau- 
tiful decorated  parlor,  study  and  banquet  lamps,  which  have  become  so  popular  among 
people  of  refinement.  They  are  constantly  adding  new  features  in  decoration,  shapes  and 
styles.  The  banquet  and  parlor  lamps  produced  are  remarkable  for  their  exquisite  beauty 
of  form  and  coloring.  The  popular  opal  glass-ware,  which  is  so  much  admired,  is  manu- 
factured here,  in  many  varieties.  The  product  also  includes  fancy-colored  glass-globes  for 
gas  and  electric  lights,  both  etched  and  plain.  One  of  the  sights  of  western  Pennsylvania 

is  the  works  of  the  Phcenix  Glass  Company, 
developed  under  the  management  of  Andrew 
Howard,  its  president,  assisted  by  A.  H.  Par- 
terson,  manager,  who  has  charge  of  the  lar^e 
salesrooms,  at  729  Broadway,  New  York, 
where  a  full  line  of  wares  is  to  be  found. 

One  of  the  greatest  glass  manufactories  of 
Pennsylvania  is  that  of  C.  Dorflinger  &  Sons, 
a  New- York  firm,  whose  factory  is  at  White 
Mills,  in  Wayne  County.  This  is  the  foremost 
of  all  the  exclusive  cut-glass  manufactories 
of  the  United  States.  Here  fully  325  persons 
>11  approximates  $125,000.  Its  specialties  are 


WHITE    MILLS  I     C.    DORFLINGER    &    SOr 

are  given  employment  and  the  annua 


blown  crystal,  plain  and  cut-glass,  but  it  is  specially  famous  among  the  connoisseurs  and  the 
glass-ware  and  jewelry  and  fine-art  trade  for  its  elegant  richly  cut  table  glassware,  for  a 
display  of  which  an  award  was  made  at  the  Centennial  Exposition  in  Philadelphia,  in  1876. 
Dorflinger  &  Sons  also  make  druggists'  and  perfumery  glassware  of  high  grade,  including 
elaborate  cut-glass  cologne  bottles.  Still  another  specialty  of  manufacture  is  that  of  speci- 
men jars  for  the  use  of  colleges  and  museums.  The  present  proprietors  founded  in  1852 
this  celebrated  plant,  which  covers  four  acres,  and  produces  much  of  the  richest  cut-glass 
in  the  world,  fairly  rivalling  the  choicest  and  costliest  work  of  the  great  European  factories. 

A  lamp  chimney  is  a  very  little  thing,  of  trifling 
value,  and  yet  it  is  indispensable  in  the  house- 
hold. Especially  is  this  true  since  the  handsome  par- 
lor and  study  lamps  became  so  popular.  From  Pitts- 
burgh  comes  a  large  proportion  of  the  millions  of  lamp 
chimneys  and  globes  which  are  used  in  this  country 
and  in  China,  Japan,  South  America,  Australia,  and  all 
parts  of  Europe.  Geo.  A.  Macbeth  &  Co.  are  the  pro- 
prietors of  the  immense  Macbeth  Lamp  Chimney 
Works,  covering  a  square  and  a  half  of  the  city,  where 
these  articles  are  manufactured.  They  gather  their 


PITTSBURGH  I   GEORGE  A.  MACBETH  &  CO. 


758 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


materials  from  France,  England,  Peru,  Chili  and  Turkey,  and  send  them  forth  in  the  manu- 
factured state.  Every  kind  of  lamp  glasses,  some  of  them  very  curious  and  beautiful,  is  made 
by  this  firm.  By  making  a  chimney  known  everywhere  as  the  "  Pearl  Top,"  that  is  unbreak- 
able in  ordinary  uses,  they  have  saved  the  people  of 
all  countries  a  fabulous  sum  of  money.  It  is  the 
leading  concern  of  its  kind  in  this  country,  making 
the  largest  output  in  value  in  lamp  chimneys. 

Philadelphia  is  noted  for  several  large  com- 
mercial houses  which  date  their  foundation  pre- 
vious to  the  year  1800.  One  of  the  most  notable 
of  these  stable  establishments  is  the  firm  of  David 
Landreth  &  Sons,  seed-growers,  which  had  its 
BRISTOL:  BLOOMSDALE  SEED  FARM,  LANDRETH  &  SONS,  rise  in  1784.  Indeed,  this  house  is  by  many 
years  the  pioneer  in  America  in  the  seed-growing  industry.  It  is  a  real  delight  to  visit 
their  Bloomsdale  Farm,  at  Bristol  (Penn.),  the  main  seat  of  their  seed-growing  operations, 
known  throughout  the  Union  as  a  model  farm  and  establishment  in  respect  to  systematic 
agriculture.  The  farm  is  quite  a  pretty  village  in  itself,  with  its  35  tenant-houses,  seed 
storage  houses,  wagon  sheds,  seed  barns,  saw-mill,  extensive  stables,  corn  cribs  and  other 
buildings.  All  varieties  of  garden  vegetable  seeds  and  many  farm  seeds  go  out  from  this 
farm  through  the  Bristol  and  Philadelphia  shipping  ofnces  to  all  parts  of  the  globe ;  and 
through  David  Landreth  &  Sons,  American  vegetables  have  been  disseminated  everywhere. 
An  enormous  concern  which  has  made  Pennsylvania  famous  is  the  Gibsonton  rye-whisky 
distillery,  whose  product  is  known  everywhere. 
This  great  concern  was  established  more  than  half 
a  century  ago.  Its  present  proprietors  are  Moore 
&  Sinnott,  who  succeeded  the  firm  of  John  Gibson's 
Sons  &  Co.  The  original  founder  of  the  house  was 
John  Gibson,  who  was  a  thorough  master  of  the 
business,  and  from  small  beginnings  developed  in 
a  few  years  a  large  and  growing  industry.  At  the 
outset  the  founder  established  a  high  standard  of 
excellence  for  his  rye  whiskies,  and  this  standard 
has  been  maintained.  The  whiskies  produced  at  these  distilleries  are  used  in  the  hospitals 
of  Pennsylvania,  and  by  the  wholesale  dealers  throughout  the  United  States,  Europe,  the  West 
Indies,  South  America  and  China.  The  distilleries  are  at  Gibsonton,  on  the  Monongahela 
River,  and  constitute  a  series  of  large  and  substantially-built  structures,  fitted  up  in  the  most 
elaborate  manner.  In  many  ways  it  is  the  most  perfectly  equipped  establishment  of  the  kind 
in  the  country.  There  are  200  hands  employed,  and  the  capacity 
is  loo  barrels  a  day.  The  ofnces  and  warehouses  of  Moore  & 
Sinnott  are  at  Philadelphia ;  and  the  firm  has  agencies  in  the 
chief  American  cities. 

An  eminently  successful  industry  of  Philadelphia  is  the 
manufacture  of  shoe-blacking,  by  the  James  S.  Mason  Com- 
pany. The  house  of  James  S.  Mason  was  founded  in  1832, 
and  years  ago  established  a  national,  indeed,  a  world-wide, 
reputation.  There  is  no  nation  on  the  earth  where  shoes  are 
worn  in  which  Mason's  blacking  is  not  found.  The  best 
scientific  ability  has  been  employed  in  perfecting  this  seem- 
ingly simple  product,  and  it  is  now  the  standard  of  the  United- 
States  Government.  This  establishment  claims  to  be,  and  un- 
doubtedly is,  the  largest  of  its  kind  in  the  world.  Many  mil- 
PH.LADELPHIA:  JAMES  MASON  &  co.  lions  of  boxes  of  blacking  are  made  and  distributed  annually 


GIBSONTON   :    MOORE  &  SINNOTT. 


THE  STATE   OF  PENNSYLVANIA. 


759 


PHILADELPHIA   ; 

8.  S.  WHITE  DENTAL  MANUFACTURING 
COMPANY. 


by  this  concern  ;  and  a  large  number  of  persons  are  employed  in  its  manufacture.  Its  labels 
arc  printed  in  the  English,  Spanish  and  French  languages ;  and  it  is  interesting  to  see  the 
many  counterfeits  that  have  been  made,  to  steal  away  a  part  of  the  business  due  to  this 
firm's  high  standing  in  its  own  special  industry.  The  trade- 
mark of  the  dog  seeing  his  likeness  in  the  boot  polished  with 
Mason's  blacking  has  become  familiar  everywhere. 

The  S.  S.  White  Dental  Manufacturing  Company,  the 
largest  house  of  its  class  in  the  world,  is  the  lineal  successor 
to  the  business  founded  by  the  late  S.  S.  White  in  1844.  The 
headquarters  of  the  company  are  in  its  own  fine  marble-front 
building  at  Chestnut  and  Twelfth  Streets,  Philadelphia,  with 
branches  at  New  York,  Boston,  Chicago  and  Brooklyn.  In 
age,  in  extent  of  works,  in  manufacturing  capacity,  in  quantity, 
quality  and  variety  of  products,  and  in  the  importance  of  its 
specialties,  this  house  is  recognized  throughout  the  world  as 
the  representative  dental  supply  house.  The  industrial  history 
of  this  country  furnishes  few  parallels  to  its  cosmopolitan  repu- 
tation. The  manufactures  of  the  house  have  received  108  first 
premiums,  including  one  from  each  of  the  great  World's  Ex- 
positions. The  leading  specialty  of  the  house  is  porcelain  teeth,  but  its  manufactures  in- 
clude every  conceivable  article  needed  in  dental  practice,  from  the  smallest  hand  implement 
to  the  costliest  dental  chair.  Its  specialties  for  the  mouth,  including  everything  required 
for  dental  hygiene,  have  an  immense  popular  sale  throughout  the  country.  The  Dental 
Cosmos,  a  monthly  journal  now  in  its  thirty-third  volume,  published  by  the  house,  is 
acknowledged  to  be  the  leading  dental  journal  of  the  world.  This  great  house  obtained 
and  maintains  its  foremost  position  by  the  unquestioned  superiority  of  its  products,  which 
throughout  the  habitable  globe  are  to  be  found  wherever  dentistry  is  intelligently  practiced. 
Pittsburgh  makes  three  fourths  of  the  glass  lamp-chimneys  used  in  America  and  vast 
quantities  of  silvered  glass  and  stained  glass.  The  fine  Baccarat  and  Val  St.  Lambert  glass 
of  Europe  has  been  surpassed  by  the  Pennsylvania  product ;  and  the  English  output  is 
already  far  below  the  American,  in  point  of  quantity.  Plate-glass  was  almost  entirely  im- 
ported, until  within  a  few  years,  but  now  the  immense  works  at  Pittsburgh,  Butler  and 
other  points  make  scores  of  millions  of  feet  yearly,  and  have  almost  entirely  stopped  the 
importation,  and  lowered  the  price  from  $1.50  a  square  foot  to  about  half  that  rate. 

The  kid  and  morocco  leather  industry  flourishes  to  an  enormous  extent  in  Philadelphia, 
where  there  are  many  establishments,  representing  several  millions  of  capital.  Here  are 
the  tanneries  of  McNeely  &  Co.,  employing  a  capital  of  about  $2,000,000,  and  occupying 
nearly  an  entire  square  ;  all  of  brick,  and  ex 


tending  an  eighth  of  a  mile,  with  a  floor-space 
of  228,000  feet,  and  equipped  with^  modern 
machinery  and  appliances  used  in  the  various 
processes  by  which  the  raw,  hair-covered  skin 
is  converted  into  dainty  and  pliable  leather. 
The  total  product  is  about  12,000  skins  daily. 
McNeely  &  Co.  are  not  only  the  largest  pro- 
ducers of  kid  in  America,  but  are  the  largest 
in  the  world.  They  are  the  oldest  existing 
house  in  the  trade  in  Philadelphia,  having  been  established  in  1809.  The  business  has  been 
in  the  McNeely  family  for  the  better  part  of  a  century,  and  is  now  conducted  with  all  the 
skill  and  aptitude  given  by  long  experience  and  inherited  skill.  These  famous  factories 
have  branches  in  other  cities,  and  transact  a  business  of  vast  extent  and  value,  extending  all 
over  the  world.  There  are  about  500  employees  in  the  works  at  Philadelphia,  and  the 


PHILADELPHIA  :    MCNEELY    &    CO. 


y6o 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


PHILADELPHIA  (.GRAY'S  FERRY-*  : 

HARRISON   BROTHERS  &   CO. 


ingenious  apparatus  and  machines  used  in  the  pro- 
cesses of  morocco-making  are  driven  by  a  300  horse- 
power engine. 

A  great  and  substantial  industry  of  Philadelphia, 
which  had  its  rise  in  the  last  century,  is  the  paint 
and  chemical  manufactory  of  Harrison  Bros.  &  Co., 
whose  name  is  a  household  word  among  painters  the 
country  over.  The  house  was  founded  in  1793, 
almost  a  century  ago,  by  John  Harrison,  the  grand- 
father of  the  members  of  the  present  firm.  His  en- 
terprise won  the  admiration  and  encouragement  of 
Jefferson,  who  foresaw  the  importance  to  the  nation 
of  the  industries  he  founded.  About  the  year  1840, 
the  founder  of  the  business  was  succeeded  by  John  Harrison's  Sons,  and  they  in  turn  by 
Harrison  Bros.  &  Co.,  made  up  of  Thomas,  M.  Lieb,  John,  George  L.,  and  Thomas  S.  Harri- 
son. The  two  first-named  sold  out  their  interest  in  1877,  and  the  firm  now  includes  John 
Harrison,  George  L.  Harrison,  Jr.,  and  Thomas  S.  Harrison.  The  quality  and  quantity  of 
the  goods,  and  the  financial  responsibility  of  the  house,  make  this  one  of  the  establishments 
in  which  all  Philadelphians  take  pride.  The  firm's  works  are  located  at  Gray's  Ferry,  on 
the  banks  of  the  Schuylkill  River,  the  plant  covering  30  acres  of  ground.  Over  $1,000,000 
dollars  have  been  laid  out  on  this  manufactory,  which  is  said  to  be  the  largest  and  best- 
equipped  of  its  kind  in  the  United  States.  Its  products  are  well-known  all  over  the  Union, 
and  are  sold  to  the  amount  of  about  $6,000,000  a  year. 

Dainty  and  admirable  prints,   delicate  and  attractive  satines,  and  superb  qualities  of 

mourning  goods, 
are  the  chief  pro- 
ducts  of  the 
Eddystone  Man- 
ufacturing Com- 
pany, whose  pic- 
turesque mills 
line  the  bank  of 
CHESTER:  EDDYSTONE  MANUFACTURING  co.  the  Delaware 

River  at  Chester.  This  great  concern  was  founded  more  than  forty  years  ago,  by  William 
Simpson,  whose  name  is  also  at  the  head  of  the  eminent  dry-goods  commission  house  of 
Wm.  Simpson,  Sons  &  Co.,  the  selling  agents  of  the  Eddystone  Company.  Its  growth  has 
been  such  that  the  plant  now  covers  more  than  150  acres  of  land  with  its  various  buildings; 
including  besides  the  mills,  numerous  dwellings  for  workmen,  and  a  hall  and  public-library 
building,  containing  a  well-selected  library  free  to  all  employees.  About  1,000  hands  are 
employed  in  these  immense  works,  and  the  pay-roll  aggregates  yearly  $500,000.  The  pro- 
duct of  the  Eddystone  works  is  printed  cotton  fabrics,  grading  from  ordinary  calico  to  the 
finest  printed  satines,  fully  equal  to  the  best  French  goods.  This  house  was  the  pioneer  in 
the  successful  use  of  aniline  black  and  colors  in  cotton  printing.  It  first  introduced  into 
this  country,  black  and  white,  and  grey 
mourning  prints,  and  fine  satines  in  fig- 
ures and  in  solid  black.  In  the  manu- 
facture of  these  goods  the  Simpson  and 
Eddystone  names  stand  pre-eminent. 

A  great  industry,  distinctively  Ameri- 
can, and  to  which  foreign  nations  pay  a 
well-deserved  tribute,  is  the  long  estab- 
lished and  extensive  oil -cloth  and  PHILADELPHIA  :  THOMAS  POTTER,  SONS  &  co. 


THE  STATE   OF  PENNSYLVANIA. 


761 


linoleum  manufactory  of  Thomas  Potter,  Sons  &  Co.  Incorporated.  Its  origin  is  in  romance. 
Years  before  Independence  was  declared  and  announced  by  the  sweet-toned  bell  upon 
Independence  Hall,  James  Hamilton  was  Colonial  Governor  of  Pennsylvania.  His  residence 
was  at  Bush  Hill,  a  fine  old  manor-house,  which  was  noted  the  country  around ;  and  ac- 
cording to  Washington's  diary  (still  in  existence),  many  feasts  were  held  there,  at  which 
the  Father  of  his  Country  was  a  welcome  guest.  In  later  years,  the  old  mansion  changed 
from  a  residence,  to  become  of  equal  note  in  the  industrial  world.  Here  in  the  early  part 
of  this  century,  Isaac  Macauley  established  a  small  oil-cloth  and  carpet  factory.  He  ran 
along  with  varying  success  until  1838,  when  Thomas  Potter,  whose 
name  is  at  the  head  of  the  present  company,  succeeded  to  the 
business.  From  that  day,  the  reputation  of  the  house,  for  the 
excellence  of  its  product,  began  to  advance,  until  now  they  export 
their  manufactured  articles  to  all  portions  of  the  world.  The  plant 
covers  5^  acres,  and  includes  31  buildings,  many  of  them  being 
large  stone  and  brick  structures.  About  400  men  are  employed, 
and  the  product  is  said  to  exceed  that  of  any  other  similar  man- 
ufactory in  the  world.  The  company  is  recognized  as  one  of  the 
most  noteworthy  in  the  United  States. 

In   and    around   Philadelphia    are   a   few  houses  that  date 
their  beginning  more  than  a  century  ago.     Among  these  is  the 
business  house  of  Wood,  Brown  &  Co. ,  which  lays  claim  to  being 
PHILADELPHIA  :  tne  oldest  wholesale  dry-goods  house  in  the  United  States.     It  has, 

WOOD,  BROWN  &  co.  as  evidence  of  its  age,  the  original  account-books,  kept  in  pounds, 

shillings  and  pence,  of  Wood  &  Bacon,  an  old-fashioned  country  dry-goods  store  at  Green- 
wich, Cumberland  County,  N.  J.  These  books  run  back  to  1 760.  The  son  of  this  Mr. 
Wood  was  the  late  Richard  D.  Wood,  who  came  to  Philadelphia  and  established  the  whole- 
sale dry-goods  house  of  Wood,  Abbott  &  Wood,  in  1823.  Since  then  the  old  business  has 
been  continued  mainly  by  Wood  &  Bacon  ;  there  having  been  three  firms  of  Wood,  Bacon 
&  Co.,  in  three  generations  in  this  century,  the  last  being  succeeded  in  1886  by  the  house  of 
Wood,  Brown&Co.,  recognized  as  one  of  the  largest  and  richest  in  the  wholesale  dry-goods 
business.  The  late  Richard  D.  Wood  was  remarkable  for  his  executive  ability,  and  for  his 
mastery  of  several  distinct  lines  of  business.  He  was  the  head  of  R.  D.  Wood  &  Co., 
noticed  elsewhere  as  the  foremost  cast-iron  pipe  founders  of  this  country ;  and  of  the  Mill- 
ville  Manufacturing  Company,  owners  of  extensive  cotton-mills ;  and  of  R.  D.  Wood  & 
Sons,  a  leading  dry-goods  commission  house ;  and  his  associates,  by  reason  of  their 
absolutely  essential  aid  at  important  times,  may  also  be  called  the  founders  of  the  wonderful 
Cambria  Iron  Works,  at  Johnstown. 

The  number  of  hats  manufactured  by  a  single  firm  in  Philadelphia 
enormous.      From  the  factory  of  John  B.  Stetson  &  Co.  are  turned 
fully  600,000  of  the  finest  fur,  felt,  soft^and  stiff  hats.     An  enormous 
hare,  coney,  beaver  and  nutria  skins  are  obtained  from  South  America 
Germany,  France,  Russia  and  the  Northwestern  portions  of  our 
own  country,  from  which  is  cut  the  fur  used  in  the  manufacture 
of  this  production;  and  employment  is  given   to  more  than  a 
thousand  persons.     The  yearly  pay-roll  approximates  half  a 
million  of  dollars.    An  entire  city  block,  bounded  by  Fourth 
and  Cadwalader  Streets  and  Montgomery  Avenue  is  occupied 
by  the  brick   buildings   of    these    extensive    works.     Beside 
this  blgfck,  an  additional  building,   175  by  48  feet  and  seven 
stories  high,  at  the  corner  of  Cadwalader   Street  and   Mont- 
gomery Avenue  is  occupied  by  John  B.  Stetson  &  Co.,  and  con- 
nected with  the  main  building  by  a  bridge.     Nearly  all  of  the  PHILADELPHIA:  JOHN  B.  STETSON  &co. 


is  simply 
out  yearly 
number  of 
Great  Britain, 


PHILADELPHIA  : 
HASELTINE'S  ART-GALLERIES. 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STA  TES. 

International  expositions  of  modern  times  have  awarded  medals  or 
other  premiums  for  the  product  of  this  great  factory.  Among 
these,  at  the  Paris  Exposition  of  1889  the  grand  prize,  highest 
award,  fell  to  Mr.  Stetson.  The  industry  was  established  just  at  the 
close  of  the  late  war,  and  that  it  has  reached  its  present  proportions 
is  due  to  the  industry,  ability  and  prudent  management  of  its  pro- 
prietor. Mr.  Stetson  also  has  found  time  and  money  to  devote 
to  religious  and  educational  work  ;  as  is  evidenced  by  the  religious 
association  which  has  quarters  adjoining  the  factory  in  Philadel- 
phia ;  and  the  John  B.  Stetson  University  at  DeLand,  Florida. 

No  visitor  to  Philadelphia,  especially  no  lover  of  art,  fails  to 
visit  the  famous  Haseltine  Art  Galleries,  incomparably  the  largest, 
grandest  and  costliest  for  the  art  business  in  the  United  States. 
They  are  located  at  1416  and  1418  Chestnut  Street;  and  occupy 
all  but  the  lower  floors  of  a  strikingly  attractive  structure  of  eight 
stories,  known  as  the  Haseltine  building.  For  the  proper  display 
of  works  of  art  there  are  six  large  galleries,  with  skylights,  and 
other  rooms,  side-lighted,  forming  altogether  the  finest  art  sales- 
rooms certainly  in  the  United  States,  and  hardly  approached  by 
any  in  Europe.  Here  is  gathered  a  wonderful  variety  of  paintings,  statuary,  etchings,  en- 
gravings, autotypes  and  photographs,  drawn  from  all  portions  of  Europe.  Exhibitions  of 
the  works  of  noted  artists  are  held  in  these  galleries,  which  are  often  thronged  with  the 
beauty,  fashion  and  intelligence  of  the  city.  Here  can  always  be  seen  for  sale  the  largest 
stock  of  works  of  the  greatest  modern  artists.  Charles  F.  Haseltine,  the  proprietor,  was 
the  first  to  introduce  into  this  country  the  famous  Braun's  autotypes,  as  well  as  the  works  of 
numerous  painters  who  afterwards  achieved  great  reputation.  The  galleries  are  usually  free. 

Of  remarkable  interest  to  every  visitor  to  Philadelphia  is  the  great  trade-mart  of  John 
Wanamaker.  This  is  the  largest  retail  establishment  in  the  world,  and  its  fame  was  world- 
wide long  before  its  founder  and  owner  became  the  Postmaster-General  of  the  United 
States.  Nearly  15  acres  of  floor-space  are  occupied  by  this  great  store,  and  over  4,000 
persons  are  employed.  •  The  business  is  divided  into  more  than  50  departments,  and  there 
is  scarcely  any  article  in  ordinary  use  which  cannot  be  obtained  here.  The  departments  of 
this  house  are  not  merely  called  such,  they  are  in  fact  just  so  many  complete  establish- 
ments. The  goods  are  remarkable  for  their  high  grade,  this  being  in  no  sense  a  mart 
for  old  stocks,  but  everything  being  as  bright  and  new  as  the  markets  of  the  world  can 
supply.  The  characteristic  feature  of  the  house  has  been  its  uniform  and  liberal  treatment 
of  all,  regardless  of  wealth  or  station,  always  serving  the  best  goods  at  the  best  tejms  which 

its  enormous  facilities  could  command. 
From  the  first  its  rule  has  been,  ' '  Be 
satisfied  with  your  purchase,  or  have 
your  money  back."  The  system  of 
the  establishment  is  wonderful,  more 
than  six  miles  of  pneumatic  tubes 
being  employed  in  connection  with 
the  cashiers'  desks,  and  for  other  pur- 
poses. Nearly  1 , 300  electric  lights  are 
in  use;  and  150  horses  are  constantly 
employed  in  the  delivery  of  goods. 
The  store  also  does  an  extensive  mail 
trade,  whereby  people  in  all  States  and  countries  avail  themselves  of  this  firm's  opportunities. 
The  Book  News,  published  by  Wanamaker,  is  a  monthly  literary  periodical.  The  yearly  busi- 
ness of  John  Wanamaker  in  this 'vast  emporium  reaches  many  million  dollars. 


PHILADELPHIA  I    JOHN  WANAMAKER. 


HISTORY. 

The  aborigines  were  the 
Narragansetts,  formerly  a 
powerful  tribe,  and  even  as 
late  as  1630  5,000  valiant 
warriors.  At  that  time, 
their  chiefs  were  Canonicus 
and  his  nephew,  Miantono- 
mi.  In  Bristol  County 


lived   many  Wampanoags, 

under  the  great  Sachem  Massasoit,  whose  domain  reached 
across  to  Massachusetts  Bay. 

The  founder  of  Rhode  Island  was  Roger  Williams,  a 
young  nonconformist  minister  fr6m  England,  who  mi- 
grated to  Salem  in  1631,  and  suffered  banishment  thence 
for  "his  new  and  dangerous  opinions  against  the  authority 
of  magistrates."  The  Puritan  leaders  ordered  that  he 
should  be  carried  back  to  England,  but  he  escaped  to  the 
wilderness,  and  dwelt  there  many  weeks  with  the  friendly 
Indians.  In  June,  1636,  with  five  companions,  he  de- 
scended the  Seekonk  River  in  a  canoe,  and  found  an  eligible 
site  on  the  Moshassuck  River,  which  he  named  Providence, 
as  a  memorial  of  "God's  merciful  providence  to  him  in 
his  distress."  He  received  a  grant  of  the  land  from  Canoni- 
cus, in  acknowledgment  of  his  mediation  in  a  feud  between 
that  potentate  and  Massasoit. 

The  island  of  Aquidneck  was  settled  by  Antinomian 
exiles  from  Massachusetts,  at  Portsmouth  (1638)  and  New- 
port (1639);  and  in  1642  Samuel  Gorton  went  into  the 
wilderness  and  founded  Shawomet  (Warwick).  The  uni- 
fication of  Providence,  Portsmouth  and  Newport  took  place 
in  1643,  under  the  title  of  "Providence  Plantations  in  the 
Narragansett  Bay  in  New  England."  The  Rhode-Island 
colonies  sent  Roger  Williams  as  an  ambassador  to  Eng- 
land, where  he  partly  supported  himself  by  reading  to 
John  Milton,  and  finally  secured  a  wise  colonial  charter  from  the  Earl  of  Warwick. 


STATISTICS. 

Settled  at Providence. 

Settled  in 1636 

Founded  by    ....    Englishmen. 
One  of  the  Original  13  States. 
Population,  in  1860,     .     .     .     174,620 

In  1870 217,353 

In  1880, 276,531 

White, 269,939 

Colored, 6,592 

American -born,     .     .     .     202,538 
Foreign-born,   ....       73,993 

Males 133.030 

Females, I43,5°i 

In  1890  (U.-S.  census),  .  345,506 
Population  to  the  square  mile,  254.9 
Voting  Population,  .  .  .  76,898 

Vote  for  Harrison  (ioom 

VoteforClevel 
Net  State  Debt,     .    . 
Assessed  Valuation  ot 

Property  (1890),  .  .  $322,000,000 
Area  (square  miles),  .  .  .  1,250 
U.  S.  Representatives,  .  .  2 

Militia  (Disciplined),       .     .         1,32? 

Counties, 

Post-offices, M3 

Railroads  (miles),  ....  214 

Vessels, 246 

Tonnage, 36,727 

Manufactures  (yearly),    $104,163,621 

Operatives, 67,878 

Yearly  Wages,  .  .  .  $21,355,619 
Farm  Land  (in  acres),  .  .  514,^13 
Farm-Land  Values,  .  .  $25,882,079 

Farm  Products  (yearly)  $3,670,135 
Public  Schools,  Average 

Daily  Attendance,  .     .     .       33,8o3 

Newspapers, 66 

Latitude,  .  .  .  41°  9' to  42°  3' N 
Longitude,  .  .  71°*  to  71^53'  W^ 
Temperature,  .  .  .  .  —9  to  Q2, 
Mean  Temperature,  Providence  48" 


17,530 
None. 


TEN   CHIEF  PLACES  AND  THEIR   POP- 
ULATIONS.     (CENSUS  OF  1890.) 


Providence, 

Pawtucket, 

Woon  socket, 

Lincoln, 

Newport, 

Warwick, 

Johnston, 

East  Providence, 

Cranston, 

Cumberland,        . 


, 

27,633 
20,830 
20,355 
I9.4S7 
I7i7*J 
9,77° 
8,422 
8,099 
8,090 


The 


first  General  Assembly  adopted  the  Maritime  Code  of  Oleron,  and  passed  a  statute  "con- 
cerning Archerie."    The  first  church  was  organized  at  Providence,  in  1638;  the  first  public 


NEWPORT  :     OLD   STONE    MILL. 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

school,  at  Newport,  in  1640;  the  first  postal  route  to  Boston,  in 
1693;  and  the  first  census  (showing  7,181  persons),  in  1708. 
The  first  newspaper,  The  Rhode-Island  Gazette,  appeared  at  New- 
port in  1732.  In  1663,  a  comprehensive  charter  was  received 
from  Charles  II. ;  and  for  over  a  century  the  Province  contended 
with  the  Crown  for  the  rights  thus  bestowed.  This  was  the  last  of 
the  Thirteen  Colonies  to  accede  to  the  Constitution  of  the  United 
States,  preferring  its  Royal  Charter,  which  indeed  remained  as 
authority  until  1843. 

During  King  Philip's  War,  1111675,  1 ,000  New-England  soldiers 
stormed  the  great  tribal  fortress  of  the  Narragansetts,  seven  miles 
from  Narragansett  Pier,  and  in  a  bitter  winter's-day  battle  slew 
300  Indians,  and  took  600  prisoners,  losing  80  men  killed  and 
150  wounded.  The  next  year  the  savages  burned  Providence,  but  spared  the  life  of  the 
venerable  Roger  Williams,  then  nearly  eighty  years  old,  and  serving  as  a  captain  of  militia. 
After  many  a  desperate  fight,  the  native  power  melted  away,  and  King  Philip  was  slain, 
near  Mount  Hope. 

When  the  American  Revolution  broke  out,  Rhode  Island  took  up  arms  with  patriotic 
enthusiasm.  The  St.  John  was  fired  upon  by  Fort  George ;  the  Maidstone's  boat  was 
burnt  on  Newport  Common ;  the  people  fought  the  Senegal 's  officers  in  the  streets ;  and 
Providence  volunteers  burnt  the  Gaspee.  During  the  siege  of  Boston  1,000  Rhode- Island 
troops  encamped  at  Jamaica  Plain.  The  British  naval  officers  bombarded  Bristol  and 
Warren ;  ravaged  Prudence  Island  and  Point  Judith ;  and  in  other  ways  devastated  the 
brave  little  State.  Newport  remained  in  the  hands  of  the 
British  from  1776  to  1779,  and  Sir  Richard  Pigott  and  his 
5,000  troops  drove  Sullivan's  New-England  militia  from  its 
vicinity,  after  a  hard-fought  battle.  Finally,  ruined  New- 
port was  evacuated,  and  the  French  fleet  and  army  of  6,000 
men  under  Ternay  and  Rochambeau  sailed  into  the  harbor. 
Narragansett  Bay  was  the  scene  of  daring  naval  encounters, 
and  the  many  privateers  sent  forth  from  its  waters  did 
noble  service  for  the  cause  of  American  liberty.  The  Com- 
monwealth had  at  one  time  more  than  3,000  disciplined  troops  in  the  Continental  Line. 

In  the  new-formed  State,  suffrage  was  regarded  not  as  a  right,  but  as  a  privilege,  de- 
pendent on  conditions,  such  as  a  freehold  of  $134.  The  government  reposed  in  the  hands 
of  a  few  land-holders,  and  town-representation  finally  became  singularly  inequitable.  In 
1842  Thomas  Wilson  Dorr  claimed  the  governorship,  in  spite  of  the  fact  that  Samuel 
Ward  King  was  the  regularly  elected  and  active  chief  magistrate.  Then  ensued  the  so- 
called  Dorr  Rebellion,  in  which  the  adherents  of  Dorr  fortified  Acote's  Hill,  at  Chepachet. 
But  on  the  advance  of  the  State  troops,  the  force  assembled  here  melted  away,  with  the 
unprecedented  loss  (as  a  local  wit  said)  of  killed,  none ;  wounded,  none  ;  missing,  the  entire 
army.  The  State  authorities,  by  this  uprising  made  aware  of  the  popular  uneasiness,  drew 
up  a  new  Constitution,  which  supplanted  the  old  charter  of  Charles 
II.,  in  1843. 

The  Rhode-Island  contingent  in  the  late  civil  war  numbered 
23,236  men,  out  of  a  population  of  175,000.  Of  this  force,  255 
were  killed,  1,265  died  of  wounds  or  disease,  and  1,249  wcre 
wounded  in  battle.  These  fallen  heroes  are  commemorated  by 
elaborate  monuments  at  Providence  and  elsewhere. 

The  local  historical  relics  include  the  Indian  fortresses ;  the 

PAWTUCKET  •  State  Houses  ;  Trinity  Church,  at  Newport,  dating  from  1726  j  the 

THE  OLD  SLATER  MILL.          Newport  synagogue,  the   first  in  America  (1762);  the   ivy-clad 


BLOCK    ISLAND. 


NEWPORT  I    PERRY    MONUMENT. 


THE  STATE   OF  RHODE  ISLAND. 

Old  Stone  Mill,  at  Newport,  long  attributed  to  the  eleventh-cen- 
tury Norsemen  (see  Longfellow's  The  Skeleton  in  Armor} ;  the 
Newport  City  Hall,  built  in  1760,  by  one  of  the  architects  of 
Blenheim  Palace ;  the  block-house  (built  in  1641),  and  Episcopal 
Church  (built  in  1707),  at  Wickford;  the  French  Memorial, 
over  the  graves  of  the  French  soldiers  at  Providence  ;  and  many 
legend-haunted  colonial  houses  in  Warren  and  Bristol,  and  in 
the  Narragansett  Country.  At  Providence  we  may  see  Slate 
Rock,  where  Roger  Williams  was  saluted  by  the  Indians  with, 
"What  Cheer,  Netop;"  the  Friends'  Meeting-House,  dating 
from  1727;  the  First  Baptist  Church,  built  in  1775;  and  the 
quaint  old  houses  of  Tillinghast  (1710),  Hopkins  ( 1 750),  Whipple 
(1659)  and  Browne  (1786).  The  Roger-Williams  Park  of  Provi- 
dence is  a  part  of  the  domain  granted  by  Canonicus  to  Roger 
Williams,  and  bequeathed  to  the  city  by  his  descendant  in  the  sixth  generation.  The  munici- 
pality accepted  this  noble  gift,  in  1872,  and  it  is  now  a  beautiful  region  of  lawns  and  groves 
and  drives,  still  enshrining  the  venerable  colonial  house  of  the  Williams  family,  and  adorned 
by  a  fine  bronze  statue  of  Roger  Williams,  with  History  standing  below. 

A  few  half-breed  Narragansett  Indians  remain  on  Indian  lands  in  Charlestown,  where 
the  State  has  carefully  preserved  their  royal  burying-ground,  and  Fort  Ninigret,  a  fortress 
erected  by  the  Dutch  before  the  English  came  to  New  England,  and  after- 
wards an  aboriginal  stronghold.  Here  also  is  Coronation  Rock,  where 
Esther,  the  last  Narraglhsett  queen,  was  crowned,  in  1770.  The  State 
abolished  the  tribe  in  1880. 

The  Name  of  the  State  was  fixed  when  the  island  of  Aquidneck 
was  re-named  in  memory  of  the  heroic  defence  of  the  Isle  of  Rhodes  by 
the  Knights  of  St.  John.  The  Mediterranean  origin  of  the 
name  seems  to  be  certified  by  the  Colonial  act  of  1644:  "The 
island  of  the  Aquethneck  shall  be  called  the  Isle  of  Rhodes." 
The  pet  name  of  the  Commonwealth  is  LITTLE  RHODY,  an 
epithet  indicating  its  limited  area. 

The  State  Arms  were  adopted  in  1647,  anc^  consist  of  a 
golden  anchor,  emblazoned  on  a  blue  shield  or  flag.    Various 
accessories  of  sky,  waves,  and  ships,  and  a  fouled  rope  on  the 
PROVIDENCE  :  anchor  are  fancies  of  engravers.     The  gold  is  an  heraldic  sign  of 

ROGER-WILLIAMS  MONUMENT.  sovereignty ;  and  refers  to  the  fact  that  Rhode  Island  (as  well 
as  North  Carolina)  remained  for  several  years  outside  of  the  Union,  as  an  independent  and 
sovereign  State.  The  blue  represents  the  sea,  in  allusion  to  the  local  maritime  activities. 
The  motto  is  HOPE,  an  idea  also  suggested  by  the  anchor. 

The  Governors  of  Rhode  Island  since  the  breaking  out  of  the  Revolutionary  War  have 
been:  Nicholas  Cooke,  1775-8;  Wm.  Greene,  1778-86;  John  Collins,  1786-90;  Arthur 
Fenner,  1790-1805;  I.  Wilbour  (acting),  1806-7;  James  Fenner,  1807-11;  Wm.  Jones, 
1811-17;  N.  R.  Knight,  1817-21;  Wm.  C.  Gibbs,  1821-4;  J.  Fen- 
ner, 1824-31  ;  L.  H.  Arnold,  1831-3;  J.  B.  Francis,  1833-8;  Wm. 
Sprague,  1838-9;  Samuel  Ward  King,  1840-3;  James  Fenner, 
1843-5  >  Charles  Jackson,  1845-6;  Byron  Diman,  1846-7;  Eli- 
sha  Harris,  1847-9;  Henry  B.  Anthony,  1849-51;  Philip  Allen, 
1851-3  ;  Francis  M.  Dimond,  1853-4;  Wm.  Warner  Hoppin, 
1854-7;  ElishaDyer,  1857-9;  Thomas  G.Turner,  1859-60;  Wm. 
Sprague,  1860-3;  Wm.  C.  Cozzens  (acting),  1863;  J.  Y.  Smith, 
1863-6  ;  Ambrose  E.  Burnside,  1866-9;  Seth  Padelford,  1869- 
73;  Henry  Howard,  1873-5;  Henry  Lippitt,  1875-7;  Charles  C.  WARREN  ;  GEORGE  HAIL  LIBRARY. 


766 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


NARRAGANSETT    PIER  !   THE  CASINO. 


Van  Zandt,  1877-80;  Alfred  H.  Littlefield,  1880-3;  A.  O.  Bourn,  1883-5; 
G.  P.  Wetmore,  1885-7;  Jonn  w-  Davis,  1887-9; 
Royal  C.  Taft,  1889  ;  Herbert  W.  Ladd,  1889-90;  J.W. 
Davis,  1890-1  ;  and  H.  W.  Ladd,  1891-2. 
Descriptive. — The  State  is  the  small- 
est in  the  Republic ;  and  Texas  has  240 
times  its  area.  Rhode  Island  finds  its  main 
feature  in  Narragansett  Bay,  a  beautiful  and 
navigable  arm  of  the  sea,  thirty  miles  long, 
covering  130  square  miles,  and  branching 
into  ten  harbors.  Among  its  1 5  islands  are 
Conanicut,  Prudence,  Patience,  Hope  and 
Despair.  The  island  of  Rhode  Island  is  a 
rich  and  beautiful  domain,  15  miles  long,  with  22,000  inhabitants.  It  has  been  happily  called 
' '  The  Eden  of  America  "  and  ' '  The  Isle  of  Peace ; "  and  the  bold  cliffs  and  magnificent  beaches 
of  its  coast  enclose  ferny  valleys,  odorous  with  wild  roses,  lily-whitened  ponds  and  sea-blown 
orchards.  Here  the  traveller  still  may  see  the  lone  rock  where  dwells  Ida  Lewis,  the  Grace 
Darling  of  the  Western  Continent ;  the  beach  where  Washington  Allston  used  to  walk  and 
meditate ;  the  farm-house  whence  the  British  general,  Prescott,  was  haled  into  captivity,  in 
1777  ;  the  Old  Stone  Mill ;  and  the  ancient  mansion  of  Dean  Berkeley,  who  wrote  the  poem 
closing  with  the  noble  prophecy:  "Westward  the  course  of  empire  takes  its  way."  Conanicut, 
seven  miles  long,  is  chiefly  known  as  a  summer-resort, 
with  many  pretty  villas  and  hotels,  and  a  ferry  tof'f ew- 
port.  Block  Island,  30  miles  southwest  of  Newport,  is 
a  sea-surrounded  town  eight  by  three  miles  in  area, 
wind-shorn  and  wood-forsaken,  and  inhabited  by  fisher- 
men and  shepherds.  It  is  also  a  famous  summer-resort, 
with  many  large  hotels,  and  daily  steamboats  to  New- 
port, Providence  and  New  London.  Its  Indian  name 
was  Manisees.  Bristol  and  Warren  are  ancient  bay 
ports,  rich  with  historical  reminiscences  and  legends  of 
the  Norsemen  and  Indians.  Along  the  rapid  rivers, 
Blackstone,  Pawtuxet,  Woonasquatucket  and  others  extend  scores  of  factory-villages,  availing 
themselves  of  the  water-powers.  Around  Narragansett  Bay,  with  its  bold  bluffs  and  head- 
lands, islands,  coves  and  beaches,  there  are  many  famous  summer-resorts,  Wickford,  the 
Buttonwoods,  Oakland  Beach,  and  Sakonnet  Point,  with  Newport  and  Conanicut.  At  the 
extreme  southwest,  Watch-Hill  Point  projects  into  the  sea,  bearing  a  dozen  summer-hotels, 
and  an  ancient  light-house.  Excursion  steamboats  continually  ply  along  the  bay,"  during 
the  joyous  summers,  bearing  thousands  of  merry-makers.  One  of  the  most  cherished  insti- 
tutions of  Yankee-land  is  the  Rhode-Island  clam-bake ;  and  along  the 
Providence  River  there  are  numerous  popular  resorts,  like  Rocky  Point, 
Squantum  and  Silver  Spring,  where  this  succulent  shell-fish  is  served 
up,  with  sweet  corn  and  other  adjuncts.  The  clam-bake  is  made  by 
preparing  a  rough  floor  of  stones ;  heating  it  to  a  high  temper- 
ature by  a  wood  fire  built  on  top  ;  sweeping  away  the  embers ; 
covering  the  stones  with  sea-weed,  with  a  heap  of  clams  thereon ; 
and  then  another  layer  of  sea-weed,  and  over  all  a  sheet  of 
thick  canvas  to  keep  in  the  steam. 

Newport,  the  quaint  old  colonial  town,  has  been  enlarged 
by  a  beautiful  park-like  region  of  villas  and  gardens  reach- 
ing across  to  the  sea,  and  traversed  by  the  famous  Bellevue 
PROVIDENCE  :  BURNSIDE  STATUE.       Avenue,   and  other  broad  boulevards,   lined  with  the  costly 


NEWPORT   :    THE  CASINO. 


THE  STATE  OF  RHODE  ISLAND. 


767 


of  an  aristo- 
gansett  Pier, 
famous  old 


cottages  and  ornamental  grounds  of  the  Vanderbilts,  Goelets,  Astors,  Belmonts,  Bennetts, 
Mortons,  Agassiz  and  other  millionaire  families.  The  large  hotels  have  vanished,  all  but 
one ;  and  Newport  is  distinct  in  housing  its  guests  in  pleasant  lodgings  and  cottages,  with 
domestic  privacy,  and  freedom  from  noisy  caravansary  life.  The  fame  of  this  lovely  summer- 
city  is  world-wide,  and  has  been  growing  for  sixty  years.  The  Casino  is  a  quaint  Old-English 
structure,  with  a  theatre,  tennis-court  and  other  adjuncts,  the  property 
cratic  club  of  summer-residents.  There  is  a  similar  Casino  at  Narra- 
where  the  sea  beats  along  the  rocky  shores  and  sandy  strand  of  the 
Narragansett  country.  The  Narragansett-Bay  fisheries  employ  1,400 
men,  80  vessels,  and  1,200  boats,  and  $700,000  in  capital,  and  yield 
yearly  6,000,000  pounds  of  food-fish,  450,000  pounds  of  lobsters, 
300,000  bushels  of  oysters,  and  120,000  bushels  of  clams, 
quahaugs  and  scallops.  The  oyster-beds  belong  to  the  State, 
and  are  leased  ;  some  of  them,  together  with  the  clam  and 
quahaug  beds,  being  reserved  by  law  as  free  to  the  people. 

The  Pawcatuck  River  is  navigable  to  Westerly,  and  the 
Seekonk  to  Pawtucket.  Providence  River  is  a  deep  estuary 
reaching  for  eight  miles,  from  the  Seekonk  River  to  Nayatt 
Point,  and  affording  40,000  acres  of  safe  anchorage  ground. 
The  Government  engineers  have  skilfully  deepened  this  har- 
bor from  four  feet  to  25  feet. 

The  Climate  is  the  blandest  and  most  equable  in  New  England. 


. 


PROVIDENCE  I    FIRST  BAPTIST  CHURCH. 

It  is  supposed  that 

a  branch  of  the  Gulf  Stream  flows  into  Narragansett  Bay,  causing  a  warmth  and  moisture 
unusual  in  this  latitude.     The  mean  temperature  is  about  48°,  and  the  rainfall  40^  inches. 

The  Geology  of  Rhode  Island  concerns  itself  with 
Eozoic  Montalban  gneiss,  west  of  the  bay,  and  coal-bear- 
ing strata  under  and  east  of  the  bay.  Nearly  800,000  tons 
of  an  exceedingly  hard  coal  have  been  taken  out,  mining 
having  begun  in  1808.  The  long-deserted  shafts  at  Ports- 
mouth were  pumped  out  and  reopened  in  1889.  The  coal 
is  almost  pure  carbon,  and  requires  an  intense  draught.  It 
burns  a  long  time,  and  with  a  strong  heat.  At  Westerly 
there  are  quarries  of  fine  granite,  white,  red,  blue,  and 
mottled,  a  beautiful  and  durable  building  material.  This 

one  of  the  strongest  granites  known,  and  sustains  a  pressure  of  19,000  pounds  to  the  square 
ch.  Among  other  minerals  are  limestone,  sandstone,  serpentine,  marble,  and  brick-clay. 
Agriculture  yields  a  yearly  product  of  $8,000,000,  the  property  in  farms  and  buildings 
being  valued  at  $40,000,000.  On  the  island  of  Rhode  Island  the  land  is  rich,  and  the  other 
islands  and  the  towns  east  of  the  bay  have  very  fertile  soil.  One  fourth  of  the  State  is  in 


NEWPORT:  THE  CLIFF  WALK. 


NEWPORT  AND  ITS  HARBOR. 


PROVIDENCE  :    HIGH    SCHOOL. 


768  KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 

forests,  mostly  oak,  walnut  and  chestnut,  with  pine-plains  and  cedar-swamps  in  the  south, 

sinking  into  extensive  salt-marshes,  bordered  by  lonely  sand-dunes  and  untrodden  beaches. 
The  Government  consists  of  a  governor,  with  no  veto  power,  a  lieutenant-  ^ 

governor,  secretary  of  State,  attorney-general  and  treasurer ;  and  the  General 

Assembly,  composed  of  a  Senate,  with  one  senator  from  each  of  the  36  cities 

and  towns,   and  a    House   of  Representatives.       There  is  a 

Supreme  Court,  with  subordinate  county  courts.     The  General 

Assembly  meets  at  Newport  in  May,  for  a  short  term,  and 

then  adjourns  to  meet  at  Providence  in  January  for  the  main 

session.     The  State  House  at  Providence  dates  from  1759,  and 

is  a  plain  brick  building,  with  a  belfry.      Here  are  the  State 

Library,  the  legislative  halls,  many  portraits  of  local  notables, 

Stuart's  portrait  of  Washington,  the  Colonial  Charter  of  1663, 

and  the  Revolutionary  standards  and  Secession-War  battle-flags 

and  guidons  of  the  State  troops.     The  State  House  at  Newport  is  a  venerable  building  of 

1 738,  standing  on  Washington  Square.      The  results  of  the  State  elections  are  proclaimed 

from  its  balcony.  Energetic  efforts  are  being  made  to  erect  a  fine  Capitol  at  Providence. 
The  Militia  comprises,  one  brigade,  consisting  of  two  regiments  of  infantry  of  eight 

companies  each;  two  separate  companies  of  infantry  (colored);  one  battalion  of  cavalry  com- 
panies ;  a  light  battery  of  four 
guns  ;  a  machine-gun  battery  ; 
and  the  Newport  Artillery  ;  the 
United  Train  of  Artillery  of 
Providence ;  the  Bristol  Train  of 
Artillery  ;  and  Kentish  Guards, 
of  East  Greenwich.  The  State 

"  -4i*K-£i;  IBMKNHdl  owns  armories  at  Woonsocket, 
Pawtucket,  East  Greenwich 
and  Providence.  The  brigade 
WESTERLY,  AND  THE  PAWCATUCK  RIVER.  for  fre  iast  eleven  years  has 

held  a  yearly  encampment  at  Oakland  Beach,  ten  miles  from  Providence.  The  State  owns 
22  pieces  of  artillery  (including  Catlings).  The  Providence  Marine  Corps  of  Artillery, 
chartered  in  1801,  originally  included  only  sea-captains  and  mariners,  and  was  the  first  vol- 
unteer light  battery  in  the  United  States.  The  eight  admirable  and  efficient  batteries  sent 
out  by  Rhode  Island  to  the  Secession  War  learned  the  science  of  artillery  from  this  famous 
school  of  gunners.  In  1889  the  State  organized  a  naval  battalion,  including  Naval  Reserve 
Artillery  and  Naval  Reserve  Torpedo  companies.  The  Soldiers'  Home  is  at  Bristol. 

The  Charities  and  Corrections  are  in  Cranston,  seven  miles  from  Providence,  on 
the  State  Farm  of  530  acres.  The  State  Prison,  built  of  local  stone,  in  1874-8,  has  112 
convicts ;  and  on  the  same  unhappy  domain  are  the  State  Work-House  and  House  of  Cor- 
rection, with  220  inmates ;  the  State  Asylum  for  the  Incurable  Insane,  530  patients  ;  the 
State  Almshouse,  230;  the  Providence-County  Jail,  290;  and  the  State  Reform  School, 
200.  The  State  Home  and  School  for  Neglected  and  Dependent  Children  was  founded  in 


PROVIDENCE,  AND  PROVIDENCE  RIVER. 


THE  STATE   OF  RHODE  ISLAND. 


769 


1885,  at  Providence,  and  has  120  little  ones  in  charge.  The  State  School  for  the  Deaf  has 
four  teachers  and  30  pupils.  The  Butler  Hospital  for  the  Insane  is  a  handsome  brick  build- 
ing in  a  park  of  150  acres,  on  the  Seekonk  River,  in  Providence.  It  was  opened  in  1847, 
and  is  a  private  institution,  accommodating  180  persons.  The  Rhode-Island  Hospital, 
also  in  Providence,  is  a  magnificent  pile  of  buildings,  erected  in  1867-8,  at  a  cost  of  $500,000, 
contributed  by  private  generosity.  The  Dexter  Asylum  is  in  Providence. 

The  National  Works  include  the  torpedo-school,  on  Goat  Island,  where  the  explosives 
are  made  and  stored,  and  great  numbers  of  torpedoes  are  kept,  with  various  electrical  instru- 
ments. The  torpedo-museum  is  also  used  as  an  instruction  room,  where  officers  are  taught 
how  to  handle  torpedoes.  Fort  Adams  (built  in  1824-39)  is  one  of  the  three  chief  fortresses  of 
the  United  States,  guarding  Newport  Harbor  with  500  cannon,  and  continually  garrisoned  by 
regular  troops.  In  the  Narragansett  waters  there  are  two  light-ships  and  25  light-houses  ; 
and  six  life-saving  stations.  The  Beaver-Tail  light-house,  on  Conanicut,  is  the  oldest  on 

the  American  coast ;  and  the  Point-Judith  light  is  one 
of  the  most  important  for  mariners.    There 
are  several  abandoned  forts  around  the  bay, 
dating  from  the  days  of  olden  wars.     The 
training-school  for  naval  apprentices  is  on 
the  line-of-battle  ship   New  Hampshire, 
anchored    o  if 
Coaster's-Harbor 
Island    (near 
Newport),  where 
there  are  several 
buildings.     Here 
400   American 
lads    are    taught 
in  seamanship. 


Education,  though  for  a  long 
period  carefully  encouraged  by  the 
fathers  of  the  State,  and  aided 
by  the  enactments  of  1828  and 
1839,  and  especially  fortified  by  the 
school  law  of  1845,  and  tne  recent 
law  compelling  the  sending  of 
children  to  school,  has  been  ham- 
pered by  the  large  foreign  population  and  the  irregular  attendance  in  manufacturing  villages. 
Ten  per  cent,  of  the  people  are  illiterate,  a  higher  rate  than  in  any  other  Northern  State. 
The  revenue  for  current  public-school  expenses  is  $700,000,  and  about  $200,000  in  addition 
to  this  sum  is  ordinarily  expended.  There  are  twelve  high-schools,  with  1,500  pupils.  The 
State  Normal  School  at  Providence  has  about  150  students. 

Brown  University,  founded  as  Rhode-Island  College,  at  Warren,  in  1765,  and  later  re- 
moved to  Providence,  has  a  group  of  interesting  buildings,  on  an  elm-shaded  campus  of  15 
acres,  crowning  Prospect  Hill.  There  are  27  instructors,  and  270  students  (200  from  Rhode 
Island).  The  library  has  70,000  volumes;  and  the  museum  is  large  and  well  arranged. 
University  Hall,  a  copy  of  Nassau  Hall  at  Princeton,  dates  from  1770,  and  was  used  as  a 
barrack  and  hospital  for  the  American  and  French  soldiery  in  the  Revolution.  Among  the 
other  buildings  are  the  Sayles  Memorial  Hall,  of  red  Westerly  granite,  in  Romanesque 


770 


PROVIDENCE  :    LADD  OBSERVATORY. 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE   UNITED   STATES. 

architecture,  erected  in  1880 ;  Manning  Hall,  a  Doric 
temple  of  stone,  dating  from  1828;  and  the  beauti- 
ful Venetian-Gothic  library,  erected  in  1878  with  a 
bequest  from  John  Carter  Brown.  Since  1804  the 
University  has  borne  the  name  of  Hon.  Nicholas 
Brown,  a  generous  benefactor.  It  is  Baptist  in  ten- 
dency. Brown  University  has  been  growing  steadily 
in  power,  influence  and  value.  Recently  it  has  made 
a  substantial  advance  by  reason  of  a  munificent  gift 
from  Herbert  W.  Ladd,  president  of  a  prominent 
dry-goods  company  in  Providence,  which  will  furnish 
the  University  with  adequate  means  for  thorough  instruction  and  important  research  in 
astronomy,  and  place  it  in  line  in  this  respect  with  other  colleges.  It  was  during  the  donor's 
term  as  Governor  of  the  State,  at  the  annual  Commencement  dinner  in  1889,  that  the  friends 
of  the  University  were  gratified  by  an  announcement  that  Gov.  Ladd  proposed  to  build, 
equip  and  present  to  the  University  an  observatory.  Work  was  begun  immediately.  The 
Observatory  is  a  handsome  structure,  appointed  and  equipped  with  the  highest  type  of  sci- 
entific instruments ;  and  from  its  site  upon  Tin-Top  Hill  commands  a  wide  landscape  and 
unbroken  sky  fron  horizon  to  zenith.  The  building  is  one  story  in  height,  over  an  ample 
basement ;  and  in  front  is  an  octagonal  tower,  surmounted  by  the  revolving  dome  contain- 
ing the  big  equatorial,  which  is  mounted  on  an  immense  brick  pier,  on  the  face  of  which 
is  a  bronze  plate  bearing  the  donor's  name.  Gov.  Ladd,  the  founder  of  this  splendid  scien- 
tific department,  is  widely  known  as  one  of  Rhode  Island's  most  successful  business  men. 

The  Friends'  Boarding  School,  founded  more  than  a  century  ago,  stands  on  a  hill  in 
Providence,  182  feet  above  the  tide,  and  looking  out  over  nearly  all  Rhode  Island  and  a 
broad  area  of  Massachusetts,  and  down  the  fair  blue  vista  of  Narragansett  Bay.  The  vener- 


PROVIDENCE:  THE  FRIENDS'  SCHOOL. 

able  trees  of  the  5o-acre  park  overarch  rich  green  lawns  and  spacious  buildings,  some  of 
them  nearly  three  quarters  of  a  century  old,  but  provided  with  all  the  modern  comforts  and 
conveniences.  The  school  was  founded  by  Moses  Brown,  in  1784,  and  has  been  in  the 
charge  of  the  Yearly  Meeting  of  Friends  for  New  England.  The  influences  are  genuinely 
religious,  but  not  sectarian,  and  the  pupils  are  carefully  guarded  and  developed.  Much  at- 
tention is  paid  to  music  and  the  fine  arts,  and  to  the  sciences ;  and  various  forms  of  athletic 
sport  find  opportunity  on  the  spacious  grounds.  The  school  educates  boys  and  girls  for 
college  or  business;  and  has  22  officers,  and  226  students,  from  1 8  States,  the  principal 
being  Augustine  Jones,  LL.  B.,  for  some  time  Gov.  Andrew's  law-partner.  George  William 
Curtis  commends  "the  excellence  of  its  instruction  and  the  serene  influence  of  its  discipline." 
The  Redwood  Library,  incorporated  at  Newport  in  1747,  has  a  collection  of  35,000 
books,  in  a  beautiful  old  Doric  building,  erected  by  Peter  Harrison,  assistant-architect  of 
Blenheim  Palace,  and  builder  of  King's  Chapel,  Boston.  The  Providence  Athenseum,  dat- 
ing from  1836,  is  a  shareholders'  library  of  50,000  volumes,  with  rare  paintings  and  historical 
relics.  The  Providence  Public  Library  has  38,000  volumes.  The  Rhode-Island  His- 
torical Society's  library  (founded  in  1822)  has  18,000  volumes,  30,000  pamphlets,  a  cred- 


THE  STATE   OF  RHODE  ISLAND. 


771 


PROVIDENCE  :    FROM  PROSPECT  TERRACE. 


itable  collection 
of  the  newspa- 
pers of  the  State, 
bound  and  ar- 
ranged in  chron- 
ological order, 
together  with 
numerous  fam- 
ily, town  and 
State  manu- 
script docu- 
ments and  other 
memorials  of 
great  historic 
value.  The 
State  Law  Li- 
brary has  14,000 

volumes.  Both  of  these,  and  also  the  great  library  of  Brown  University,  are  at  Providence. 
There  are  140,000  volumes  in  37  other  public  libraries,  including  the  beautiful  Old-English 
town-hall  and  library  on  Prince's  Hill,  in  Barrington ;  the  granite  building  of  the  George 
Hail  Free  Library,  at  Warren ;  the  Rogers  Free  Library,  at  Bristol ;  the  Pawtucket  Free 
Library ;  and  the  Harris-Institute  Library,  at  Woonsocket. 

There  are  60  newspapers  in  Rhode  Island,  ten  of  which  are  dailies.     The  foremost  paper 

is  the  Providence  Journal,  dating  from  1820.      The  Newport  Mercury  was  founded  in  1758. 

Population. —  One  fourth  of  the  population  is  foreign-born,  half  of  these  being  Irish, 

and  a  quarter  being  French  Canadian.     In  density  of  population,  this  excels  all  other  States, 

and  is  surpassed  only  by  Belgium,  British  India,  the  Netherlands,  and  Great  Britain. 

Chief  Cities. —  Providence,  at  the  head  of  an  arm  of  Narragansett  Bay,  is  the  second  city 
of  New  England,  in  population  and  wealth,  with  a  large  country  trade  and  shipping,  and 
important  manufacturing,  financial  and  railroad  interests.  It  is  also  one  of  the  chief  cities 
of  the  world  for  the  making  of  jewelry  and  silverware.  Six  railways  converge  here,  con- 
necting with  lines  of  steamships  to  New  York,  Philadelphia,  Baltimore  and  Norfolk.  The 
visitor  who  looks  down  from  Prospect  Terrace  will  see  that  Providence  is  a  very  pleasant 
city,  surrounded  by  fane  swelling  hills.  The  public  'buildings  and  churches  include  many 
good  pieces  of  architecture.  The  Providence  High  School,  the  Brown-University  Library, 
and  the  Narragansett  Hotel,  as  well  as  the  Hail  Library  at  Warren,  and  the  Fall-River 
City  Hall,  were  designed  by  WTm.  R.  Walker  &  Son,  the  architects,  of  Providence.  Paw- 
tucket  lies  close  to  Providence,  on  the  Blackstone  River,  which  furnishes  an  abundant 
water-power  at  its  falls.  Woonsocket  is  an  industrious  cotton-manufacturing  place,  in  an 
amphitheatre  of  hills  along  the  Blackstone,  whose  falls  afford  a  great  power  for  the  mills. 
There  are  several  thousand  French-Canadians  among  the  mill-hands,  and  their  language  is 

in  general  use.     Newport,  on  Rhode  Island,  has  one 
of  the  finest  harbors  in  the  world. 

The  Narragansett  Hotel  of  Providence  has  come  to 
be  one  of  the  best  known  hotels  in  the  United  States. 
Besides  being  of  colossal  proportions,  it  possesses 
grandeur,  beauty,  convenience,  and,  in  fact,  every  de- 
sirable appointment  requisite  to  a  strictly  first-class 
hotel.  On  entering  the  spacious  rotunda  one  is  at- 
tracted by  the  display  of  truly  artistic  taste  brought 
into  play  in  its  general  arrangement.  The  grand 
marble  staircase  (30  feet  wide),  leading  to  the  parlor 


772 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


floor,  is  very  attractive.  Numerous  fine 
and  costly  paintings,  from  the  brushes 
of  some  of  the  world's  most  noted  art- 
ists, are  to  be  seen.  Among  those  at- 
tracting the  most  attention  are  the 
"Battle  of  Trafalgar,"  after  Jazeb; 
"Temptation,"  by  Roestel;  "  Tally  - 
Ho,"  by  Thorn;  and  "Les  Premieres 
Fleurs,"  by  L.  de  Schryver.  These 

PROVIDENCE  :    UN.ON  DEPOT  AND  CITY  HALL.  are  jn  ^  whUe  among  those  in  water 

colors  may  be  mentioned  "Le  Triumphe  d'Artane,"  by  Makart;  "Soiree  de  September," 
by  Japy ;  "  Le  Parlementaire, "  by  Belfort,  and  many  others.  A  large  number  of  masterly 
pieces  in  the  restaurant  and  cafe,  consisting  of  fruits,  flowers,  vegetables,  game,  and  fishes, 
from  the  brush  of  Leavitt,  the  noted  Rhode-Island  artist,  also  attract  attention.  The  hotel 
will  accommodate  about  500  guests,  is  fire-proof,  and  originally  cost  over  $  i ,  ooo,  ooo.  From 
an  exterior  view  it  presents  a  most  imposing  appearance.  It  is  seven  stories  high,  cen- 
trally located,  and  with  its  50  feet  of  streamer  bearing  aloft  its  name  presents  to  the  spectator 
one  of  the  most  conspicuous  landmarks  in  the  city  of 
Providence.  This  famous  hotel  property  was  formerly 
owned  by  a  corporation,  but  was  recently  purchased  by 
Charles  Fletcher,  the  noted  millionaire  woolen  manu- 
facturer, and  one  of  the  leading  citizens  of  the  place.  L. 
H.  Humphreys,  one  of  its  founders,  has  been  sole  lessee 
and  proprietor  for  the  past  ten  years,  and  has  renewed 
his  lease  for  ten  years  to  come.  The  most  signal  success 
has  greeted  his  every  effort  during  his  career,  and  is  sure 
to  continue  to  do  so  just  so  long  as  he  continues  "Mine 
Host  of  the  Narragansett." 

The  Finances  of  Rhode  Island  are  satisfactory.  The 
rate  of  taxation  per  head  is  $9. 74  yearly,  which  is  exceeded 
only  by  Massachusetts,  New  York  and  California.  •  But  in 
valuation  per  head  ($  i ,  5 1 8)  it  ranks  third  among  the  States, 
while  in  aggregate  valuation  it  ranks  25th.  The  savings- 
banks  have  136,648  depositors  (with  deposits  exceeding 
$ 66,000,000).  Rhode  Island  had  no  debt  in  1861  ;  but  at 
the  close  of  the  Secession  War,  she  had  $4,000,000  of 
bonds  outstanding.  The  Providence  Bank  was  founded  in  1791,  and  still  flourishes.  The 
Providence  Institution  for  Savings  dates  from  1819,  and  has  above  $10,000,000  in  deposits. 
Providence,  "the  Bee-Hive  of  Industry,"  is  also  one  of  the  foremost  banking  cities  in 
America,  and  has  an  unusually  large  number  of  strong  financial  institutions. 

The  Rhode-Island  Hospital  Trust  Co.  was  incorporated  in  1867.     Its  charter  empowers 
it  to  accept  and  execute  trusts  of  every  description  and  embracing  every  kind  of  property. 
The  intentions  of  its  founders  have  been  carried  out,  and  from  year  to  year  an  increasing 
..  number  of  estates,  large  and  small,  have  been  com- 

I  mitted  to  it  for  settlement  or  to  be  held  in  trust. 
The  Courts  appoint  the  company  as  executor,  ad- 
ministrator, or  guardian  of  estates,  and  recognized 
it  in  these  capacities,  and  also  as  trustee  under  wills, 
trust-deeds,  mortgages  and  other  instruments. 
The  company's  trust  business  is  very  large,  and  its 
management  of  the  affairs  thus  entrusted  to  it  has 
WATCH  HILL.  been  conservative,  successful  and  satisfactory  to 


PROVIDENCE  I 
CATHEDRAL  OF  STS.  PETER  AND  PAUL. 


THE  STATE  OF  RHODE  ISLAND. 


773 


PROVIDENCE  : 


its  clients.  The  company  also  transacts  a  very  large  business  as  a  bank  of  deposit  and  dis- 
count— larger  than  any  other  institution  in  the  State.  In  addition  to  this,  it  receives  money 
on  "  Participation"  under  rules  similar  to  those  of  a  savings-bank,  but  with  the  additional 
security  of  the  company's  capital  and  surplus.  Its  business  in 
this  department  exceeds  in  amount  that  of  any  savings-bank  in 
Rhode  Island,  with  three  or  four  exceptions.  The  capital  is 
$1,000,000,  besides  which  there  is  a  large  surplus  in  cash  and 
substantial  securities.  From  the  beginning  the  confidence  of 
the  business  community  has  been  given  to  it  freely,  and  that  con- 
fidence it  must  continue  to  enjoy  while  it  offers,  as  at  present,  the  1 1 
security  of  abundant  capital,  conservative  management,  and  hon-  -  ' 
orable  and  business-like  methods.  The  charter  required  that  a 
fixed  proportion  of  the  profits  of  the  business  should  be  paid  over, 
annually,  to  the  Rhode-Island  Hospital,  then  just  started,  and 
this  provision  has  been  the  source  of  substantial  additions  to  the 
resources  of  that  charity. 

The  Providence  Washington  Insurance  Co.  is  the  largest  in- 
surance corporation  in  Rhode  Island,  the  oldest  joint-stock  fire    RHOD 

and  marine  company  in  New  England,  and  the  sixth  oldest  in  the  world.  It  has  had  but  four 
presidents  since  its  charter  was  granted,  in  1799 — Jackson,  Dorr,  Kingsbury  and  DeWolf. 
The  liberal  privileges  accorded  to  this  company  in  the  beginning  have  enabled  it  to  carry 
forward  a  large  and  profitable  business,  which  is  facilitated  by  more  than  a  thousand  agents, 

scattered  all  over  the  United  States ;  and  the  long  and 
prosperous  life  which  it  has  enjoyed  bears  witness  to  the 
wise  conservatism  always  exhibited  in  the  management.  It 
is  unusual  to  find  in  these  days  of  change  and  vicissitude 
a  business  corporation  that  was  founded  while  Washington 
was  still  alive,  and  which  in  its  development  has  kept  step 
with  the  advancement  of  the  Republic.  This  company, 
January  I,  1891,  had  a  capital  of  $500,000;  a  reinsur- 
ance-reserve of  $685,522;  claims  of  $119,756;  and  a  net 
surplus  of  $119,269,  making  gross  assets  of  $1,324,548. 

The  Railroads  of  Rhode  Island  cover  305  miles  of 
track,  and  yearly  carry  32,671,430  passengers.  The  great 
Shore  Line  from  New  York  to  Boston  crosses  almost  the 
entire  length  of  the  State.  The  Boston  &  Providence  line 
was  opened  in  1835  ;  the  Stonington,  in  1837,  and  the  Wor- 
cester in  1847.  There  are  two  railroads  from  Providence  to 
Boston,  44  miles ;  and  lines  from  Providence  to  Stonington, 
Hartford,  Pascoag,  Worcester,  Warren  and  Bristol,  and  Fall  River  and  Newport. 

Manufactures  have  for  many  years  been  the  chief  source  of  wealth  in  Little  Rhody. 
There  are  2,200  establishments,  employing  38,000  men,  22,000  women,  and  4, 400  children. 
The  capital  is  $76,000,000.  They  pay  $58,000,000  for  materials ;  and  the  annual  product 
reaches  $104,000,000.  The  State  is  ahead  of  all  others  in  the  production  per  head  of  cot- 
ton, woolen,  worsted  and  mixed  textiles,  and  dyeing  and  bleaching  and  printing.  The  cot- 
ton manufacture  of  America  began  in  Providence  in  1788,  when  Peck,  Dexter  and  Anthony 
set  up  a  spinning-jenny.  Moses  Brown  came  into  possession  of  it,  and  secured  the  service 
of  a  young  English  immigrant,  Samuel  Slater,  an  apprentice  of  Jedediah  Strutt,  Arkwnght's 
partner.  From  memory  he  set  up  here  an  entire  set  of  the  new  spinning  machinery,  as  then 
used  in  England,  and  the  first  factory  went  into  operation  on  the  Pawtucket  River,  in  1790. 
In  other  departments  of  manufacture  the  skill  of  Rhode-Island  mechanics  has  won  success, 
so  that  the  State  has  become  a  hive  of  prosperous  industry. 


PROVIDENCE  : 
PROVIDENCE  WASHINGTON  INSURANCE   CO. 


774 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


PROVIDENCE  :     THE    CORLISS    STEAM    ENGINE    COMPANY. 


When  all  the  immense 
forest  of  machinery  dis- 
played and  in  operation  at 
the  Centennial  Exposition 
of  1876  kept  up  its  cease- 
less round,  impelled  by  the 
power  of  the  one  great  Cor- 
liss engine,  the  name  of 
the  Corliss  Steam  Engine 
Company,  of  Providence, 
became  known  to  the  peo- 
ple at  large,  as  for  a  quarter  of  a  century  it  had  been  known  to  the  industrial  world.  More 
than  40  years  ago  the  business  of  this  company  was  founded  by  George  H.  Corliss.  He 
was  the  inventor  of  the  steam-engine  which  bears  his  name,  and  the  success  of  which  has 
given  rise  to  so  many  makers  of  the  so-called  "Corliss"  engines.  To  develop  and  build 
this  engine  these  works  were  established,  and  a  few  years  ago  were  rebuilt  from  Mr.  Cor- 
liss' own  plans,  whose  aim  was  to  construct  the  model  plant  of  its  kind.  Here  it  was  intended 
to  build  engines  with  all  parts  interchangeable  for  the  same  sizes,  and  thus  produce  at  a 
minimum  cost  the  most  perfect  of  engines.  Nine  acres  at  the  North  End  of  Providence  are 
covered  by  these  brick  buildings.  They  are  directly  on  the  line  of  the  Old  Colony  and 
the  New- York,  Providence  &  Boston  Railroads.  Shipments  of  heavy  castings  are  thus 
rendered  easy.  Some  of  the  machine-tools  used  are  capable  of  stupendous  duty.  For 
example,  a  large  lathe  turns  and  finishes  a  pulley  30  feet  in  diameter,  by  1 14  inches  width 
of  face;  a  planer  is  capable  of  planing  a  piece  seven  feet  square  and  55  feet  in  length,  and 
the  bed  milling  machines  handle  castings  weighing  eight  tons.  All  of  these  machines  were 
designed  by  Mr.  Corliss  himself,  and  were  built  at  these  works.  The  foundry  is  thoroughly 
equipped,  and  a  large  brass  foundry  is  also  under  the  same  roof.  A  boiler-shop  is  also  a 
portion  of  the  works,  where  the  Corliss  patent  vertical  tubular  water-leg  boiler  is  made. 
The  forge-shop,  too,  has  an  immense  capacity.  The  Corliss  engines  are  built  in  several 
different  styles,  varying  in  power  from  50  to  2,000  horse-power.  They  are  in  general  and 
successful  use  for  manufacturing,  water-works,  and  electric  lighting,  and  all  other  purposes 
requiring  close  regulation  and  economy  in  fuel. 

The  Corliss  Safe  Company  have  erected  extensive,  handsome  and  thoroughly  equipped 
works  for  the  manufacture  of  the  Corliss  safe,  at  Auburn,  near  Providence.  William  Corliss 
is  the  inventor  and  patentee,  also  the  president  and  manager  of  the  company.  As  a  bank 
director,  and  while  associated  with  his  brother,  George  H.  Corliss,  in  the  manufacture 
of  steam-engines,  he  first  recognized  the  inability  of  square  safes  to  resist  the  attack  of 
burglars.  A  sphere  affords  the  greatest  possible  strength  and  the  greatest  attainable  capacity 
with  a  given  thickness  and  weight  of  material.  Mr.  Corliss  therefore  devised  a  new  safe,  in 
spherical  form.  Imagine  a  spherical  shell,  say  four  feet  outside  diameter  and  three  feet 
inside  diameter.  Cut  away  one  third  of  this  shell  by  a  vertical  plane,  and  you  have  left 

two  thirds  of  a  spherical  shell,  resembling  the  block 
letter  C.  Within  this  shell  imagine  a  spherical  shell, 
say  three  feet  extreme  diameter,  mounted  upon  pivots  or 
pintles  at  top  and  bottom.  Assume  that  the  edges  ot 
the  opening  in  the  larger  shell  are  provided  with  a  series 
of  steps  accurately  turned  and  ground,  and  that  the  in- 
terior shell  has  corresponding  steps  on  its  exterior  edge : 
in  practice  these  steps  upon  the  inner  sphere  fit  so  closely 
the  steps  upon  the  outer  sphere  that  there  is  left  no 
opening.  Suppose  the  inner  sphere  to  be  fitted  with 
PROVIDENCE  :  CITY-HALL.  shelves  or  compartments.  By  imparting  to  the  inner 


THE  STATE   OF  RHODE  ISLAND. 


775 


AUBURN  :     CORLISS   SAFE   COMPANY. 


sphere  a  slight  back- 
ward movement  the 
steps  are  disengaged, 
and  it  is  then  free  to 
revolve  on  its  pintles, 
bringing  the  shelves 
or  compartments  to 
the  front.  When  the 
inner  sphere  is  in  its 
closed  position,  its 

steps  firmly  seated  against  the  steps  in  the  outer  shell,  it  is  immovably  held  in  place  by  an 
expanding  ring  that  is  projected  from  the  exterior  sui'face  of  the  inner  sphere  into  a  cor- 
responding groove  upon  the  inner  surface  of  the  exterior  shell.  The  mechanism  that 
expands  this  locking  ring  and  that  imparts  the  forward  and  backward  movement  to  the 
inner  sphere  is  locked  by  combination  locks  of  the  most  approved  pattern.  The  inner 
sphere  is  in  reality  the  safe,  for  it  contains  the  valuables ;  it  also  performs  the  function  of 
a  door,  for  its  solid  side  is  used  as  a  stopper  to  the  opening  in  the  outer  shell.  This  inner 
sphere  being  larger  than  the  opening  in  the  outer  sphere,  it  is  impossible  to  blow  it  out.  The 
whole  structure  is  made  by  casting  chilled  gun-metal  over  a  heavy  wrought-iron  basket, 
and  it  is  practically  impenetrable.  These  safes  are  being  rapidly  introduced  in  all  sections 
of  the  country,  and  more  than  30  banks  in  Providence  alone  already  have  them  in  use. 

All  Rhode-Islanders  feel  justly  proud  of  the  Gorham  Manufacturing  Company,  which 
ranks  at  the  head  and  front  of  all  silverware  manufacturers  of  the  world,  not  only  in  value 
of  output,  but  also  in  the  superior  quality  of  the  ware,  and  in  having  the  most  magnificent 
establishment  erected  for  this  industry.  Silverware  for  table  service  is  now  very  extensively 
used ;  and  likewise  plated  ware  of  high  grades,  the  tastes  of  the  better  class  of  people 
having  risen  beyond  the  early  Britannia  ware  and  the  later  inferior  plated  wares.  This  is  not 
confined  by  any  means  to  table  service,  but  millinery  ornaments,  jewelry,  vessels  for  ecclesi- 
astical use,  household  ornaments,  trimmings  for  furniture,  and  countless  other  small  articles 
are  now  being  made  of  silver.  Providence  is  famous  for  its  number  of  large  jewelers, 
silversmiths  and  silverware  manufacturers ;  but  the  Gorham  Manufacturing  Company  has 
added  fame  from  all  the  cultured  countries,  its  wares  being  works  of  the  most  exquisite  fine 
art.  This  company  was  organized  in  1865,  and  now  has  a  capital  stock  of  $1,200,000.  They 
have  recently  moved  into  their  new  factory  at  Elmwood,  a  suburb  of  Providence.  This  is  one 
of  the  finest  factories  of  any  kind  in  this  country.  The  plant  covers  226,031  square  feet. 
Apart  from  the  large  main  building  of  light 
brick  is  the  foundry  and  the  woodworking 
building.  The  main  building  is  arranged  so 
that  the  parts  turning  out  germane  works 
shall  be  near.  The  bullion  and  melting  room 
is  placed  between  the  general  manufacturing 
and  the  preparatory  rooms.  At  these  works 
i,  200  hands  are  employed.  The  Gorham 
Manufacturing  Company  has  branches 
at  Chicago,  San  Francisco  and  Paris.  In 
New-York  City  there  are  two  warehouses, 
at  Broadway  and  Nineteenth  Street  and  9  Maiden  Lane,  where  can  be  seen  a  display  of  solid 
silver  and  high-grade  silver-plated  ware  that  stands  unrivalled  in  Europe  or  America. 

One  of  the  most  eminent  establishments  of  Providence  is  that  of  the  Brown  &  Sharpe 
Manufacturing  Company,  makers  of  iron  castings,  sewing-machines,  machine-tools  and 
small  tools  for  machinists'  use.  This  business  was  founded  in  1833  by  David  Brown  and 
his  son,  Joseph  R.  Brown;  and  in  1853  (David  Brown  having  retired  several  years  earlier) 


PROVIDENCE  :     GORHAM    MANUFACTURING    COMPANY. 


776 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


Joseph  R.  BrowTn 
formed,  with  Lucian 
Sharpe,  the  firm  of  J. 
R.  Brown  &  Sharpe. 
In  1868  this  firm 
was  incorporated  as 
the  Brown  &  Sharpe 
Manufacturing  Com- 
pany. Their  build- 

PROVIDENCE  I      BROWN    &    SHARPE    MANUFACTURING    COMPANY.  HlgS     are      CXCeptlOn- 

ally  neat  structures,  modern  in  every  particular,  most  methodically  arranged  and  remark- 
ably well  equipped.  The  total  floor-space  exceeds  four  acres  (a  growth  from  1,800  square 
feet  in  1853),  and  the  machine-shops  in  particular  are  in  all  respects  among  the  most  notable 
on  the  continent.  The  manufacture  of  the  Willcox  &  Gibbs  sewing-machines  was  com- 
menced in  1859,  and  the  requirements  of  this  work  have  had  an  important  part  in  stimu- 
lating the  invention  and  development  of  the  milling  and  grinding  machines,  the  cutters 
that  can  be  sharpened  without  change  of  form,  and  the  standard  gauges  and  exact  measur- 
ing instruments,  which  have  established  the  reputation  of  the  Brown  &  Sharpe  Manufac- 
turing Company,  and  materially  modified  and  improved  machine-shop  practice  throughout 
the  world.  Recently  this  company  has 
brought  out  heavier  and  larger  machines 
than  formerly,  a  number  of  them  being 
suitable  for  use  in  steam-engine  or  loco- 
motive shops.  At  international  exhibi- 
tions the  Brown  &  Sharpe  Manufac- 
turing Company  has  received  leading 
awards  ;  at  Paris  in  1867,  Vienna  in  1873, 
Philadelphia  in  1876,  Paris  in  1878,  and 
at  Paris  the  Grand  Prize  in  1889.  These 
works  employ  more  than  a  thousand 
workmen,  and  are  open  to  visitors. 

Near  Pawtucket  stands  one  of  the  handsomest  manufacturing  plants  in  America,  and 
the  largest  of  its  kind  in  the  world,  the  Moshassuck  Bleachery  of  W.  F.  &  F.  C.  Sayles. 
It  was  founded  in  1847,  by  Wm.  F.  Sayles ;  and  has  grown  year  by  year  until  now  it  covers 
30  acres,  with  its  bleachery,  drying,  and  packing  houses,  and  other  offices.  F.  C.  Sayles, 
a  brother  of  the  founder  of  the  business,  became  a  partner  in  1863.  The  Sayles  brothers 
have  provided  admirable  church,  school  and  home  accommodations  for  their  1,500  opera- 
tives, and  the  village  of  Saylesville,  on  the  bright  Moshassuck  River,  is  one  of  the  best  of 
the  ideal  industrial  communities  of  New  England. 

It  was  only  15  years  ago  that  Charles  Fletcher  established  in  Providence  what  is  to-day 
the  most  extensive  single  plant  in  the  world  for  the  production  of  worsted  yarns  and 
woolen  goods.  Mr.  Fletcher  is  a  native  of  England,  where  from  an  early  age  he  was  con- 
nected with  the  manufacture  of  worsted  yarns. 
His  venture  at  Providence  was  at  first  modest,  but 
it  grew  rapidly,  and  enlargements  were  soon  neces- 
sary. Year  by  year  this  process  has  been  re- 
peated, until  now  two  large  corporations,  the 
Providence  Worsted  Mills  and  the  National  Wor- 
sted Mills,  owe  to  him  their  paternity.  The  en- 
tire plant  covers  about  ten  acres,  the  chief  build- 
ings being  seven  in  number,  all  built  of  brick. 

PROVIDENCE  :    PROVIDENCE    AND    NATIONAL    WORSTED        r^?  1-1  •  4.      C  4/U          1         *    '     fV      1     focf 

MILLS  OF  CHARLES  FLETCHER.  The  mechanical  equipment  of  the  plant  is  the  latest 


SAYLESVILLE  :    w.  F.  &  F.  c.  SAYLES'S  BLEACHERY. 


THE  STATE   OF  RHODE  ISLAND. 


777 


improved  and  best  known  to  modern  manufacturers.  It  embraces  the  most  costly  machinery, 
both  American  and  foreign,  driven  by  eight  large  genuine  Corliss  engines.  Every  operation, 
from  the  receipt  of  the  raw  wool  direct  from  the  sheep-folds  to  the  shipment  of  the  finished 
fabric,  is  accomplished  on  the  premises.  Fully  2, 500  operatives  are  employed,  very  many 
of  whom  have  been  enabled  to  erect  comfortable  homes  from  the  fruits  of  their  industry. 
Besides  his  success  in  the  textile  world,  Charles  Fletcher  has  met  with  a  remarkable  success 
in  other  ventures,  notably  in  his  sole  ownership  of  the  Narragansett  Hotel. 

The  famous  Herreshoff  Works,  founded  at  Bristol  in  1864,  have  made  many  of  the 
swiftest  torpedo-boats,  launches  and  vidette  boats  in  the  world,  for  the  American,  English, 
French,  Spanish,  Peruvian  and  Russian  Governments,  and  scores  of  beautiful  yachts. 


PONTIAC  :      B.    B.    &  R.    KNIGHT'S    MILLS. 


NATICK  I     B.  B.   A  R.    KNIGHT'S    MILLS. 

Little  Rhode  Island  is  the  seat  of  a  firm  about  which  not  much  is  heard,  or  read  in  the 
public  prints,  but  which  nevertheless  is  the  largest  producer  of  cotton  cloth,  as  a  corpora- 
tion or  a  firm,  in  the  world.  It  is  B.  B.  &  R.  Knight,  who  have  their  headquarters  at 
Providence,  and  their  chief  store  at  New  York,  and  own  and  run  13  cotton-mills  in  Rhode 
Island  and  seven  in  Massachusetts,  employing  nearly  7,000  persons,  and  supporting  15 
villages.  Their 
aggregate  capacity 
is  11,000  looms 
and  405,000  spin- 
dles, which  con- 
sume 53,000  bales 
of  cotton  yearly, 

and  make  nearly  200,000,000  yards  of  cotton  cloth.  There  are  7,000  looms  engaged  on 
sheetings,  shirtings,  cambrics,  twills,  and  print  cloths  ;  and  4, 500  looms  make  the  famous 
cloth,  "The  Fruit  of  the  Loom,"  used  everywhere  for  shirtings  and  sheetings.  The  firm 
does  its  own  bleaching.  This  colossal  business  was  founded  in  1847,  by  Robert  Knight,  at 
one  time  a  clerk  in  the  Pontiac  Mill,  which  he  afterwards  leased,  and  later  purchased.  He 
was  joined  in  1852  by  his  brother,  B.  B.  Knight ;  and  since  that  date  the  firm  has  gone  for- 
ward, adding  mill  after  mill  to  its  vast  holdings ;  the  two  largest  being  at  Natick  and  River 
Point  (R.  I.).  They  also  own  the  controlling  interest  in  the'  Cranston  Bleaching,  Dyeing 

&  Printing  Company. 

The  word  ' '  calico  "  is  derived  from 
the  name  of  the  town  Calicut,  in 
India,  where  large  quantities  of  calico 
were  made  and  shipped  to  Europe. 
The  word  in  England  signifies  white 
cotton  cloth.  The  same  grade  of 
cloth  is  used  in  this  country  for 
prints,  and  became  known  as  printed 
calico,  and  later  as  calico.  Large 
establishments  for  calico-printing  are 
found  in  New  England  and  .the  Mid- 
dle States.  Massachusetts  and  Rhode 
Island  turn  out  the  greatest  quantity. 
PAWTUCKET:  DUNNELL  MANUFACTURING  co.  The  American  output  is  fully  as  large 


778  KING'S   HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

as  the  European.  The  consumption  of  calico  in  the  United  States  is  greater  in  proportion 
to  the  population  than  that  of  any  country  in  the  world.  The  production  of  prints  in  New 
England  exceeds  300,000,000  yards.  The  Dunnell  Manufacturing  Company,  of  Providence 
and  Pawtucket,  incorporated  in  1853,  are  among  the  largest  calico-printers.  They  turn  out 
all  styles  and  grades  of  printed  calico,  on  orders  only  ;  and  are  doing  a  very  large  business, 
since  special  prints  are  always  in  demand.  They  also  have  departments  especially  equipped 
for  dyeing  piece  goods  and  the  finishing  of  fancy  white  goods.  In  1836  the  old  Franklin  Print 
Works  passed  into  the  possession  of  Jacob  Dunnell  &  Co.,  and  the  trade  has  grown  until 
now  its  perfectly  equipped  works  employ  500  operatives,  with  a  capacity  for  finishing 
50,000,000  yards  of  cloth  yearly.  .Jacob  Dunnell  died  in  1886,  and  his  son,  W.  W.  Dunnel], 
is  now  treasurer  of  the  company,  Thomas  L.  Dunnell  being  its  president. 

The  Providence  Steam  &  Gas  Pipe  Company  was  established  40  years  ago,  and  incor- 
porated in  1865.  It  has  won  a  high  reputation  for  all  work  pertaining  to  the  use  of  steam, 
water,  gas  and  air,  in  manufacturing  establishments,  and  for  the  reliable  character  of  all 
fittings,  material  and  apparatus  employed.  The  company  makes  a  specialty  of  equipping 
factories  and  other  establishments  with  apparatus  for  extinguishing  fires.  It  inaugurated 
the  now  celebrated  system  of  automatic  fire-extinguishers.  At  first  it  adopted  and  improved 
the  so-called  Parmelee  sprinkler,  which  had  been  employed  to  a  limited  extent  under  the 
supervision  of  its  inventor,  and  was  quite  largely  introduced  into  factories,  as  well  as  into 
a  few  dry-goods  and  other  warehouses.  Gradually,  how- 
ever, in  its  practical  workings  certain  structural  limitations 
in  its  efficiency  were  revealed,  which  led  to  the  invention  by 
Frederick  Grinnell  of  a  successful  sprinkler  of  a  radically 
different  type.  The  Grinnell  Sensitive  Automatic  Sprinkler 
not  only  completely  superseded  all  preceding  devices,  but 
none  of  all  of  the  later  devices  has  ever  made  successful 
competition  with  it.  From  its  first  introduction  the  Grin- 
nell apparatus  has  been  an  assured  success.  It  has  operated 
effectually  in  more  than  800  actual  fires,  with  no  failures. 
These  fires  now  average  1 1,  monthly,  with  a  constantly  PROVIDENCE  : 

TT  ,    .       *.        .          ,    .  ,  ,  PROVIDENCE   STEAM    &    GAS    PIPE    CO. 

increasing  ratio.    Upon  this  device  hinges  an  epoch  remark- 
able in  the  history  of  fire  protection  and  of  the  business  of  underwriting,  for  the  insurance 
companies  make  an  important  reduction  wherever  it  is  introduced.     The  great  buildings  of 
the  Matthews-Northrup  Co.,  of  Buffalo,  wherein  "King's  Handbook  of  the  United  States" 
was  made,  were  saved  from  destruction  by  the  powerful  work  of  the  Grinnell  apparatus. 

Domesticated  horses  compelled  to  move  draught-burdens  beyond  their  own  weight,  or 
to  attain  gaits  above  their  voluntary  speed,  on  hardened  roads,  would  speedily  become  dis- 
abled by  worn  hoofs  if  it  were  not  for  the  skillful  devices  of  modern  farriers,  in  preparing 
iron  plates  for  the  protection  of  their  hoofs.  The  Rhode-Island  Horse-Shoe  Company,  in 
its  works  at  Valley  Falls,  does  an  immense  and  profitable  business  in  manufacturing  a 
variety  of  shoes  for  horses  and  nrules,  the  different  kinds  being  adapted  to  the  several  seasons 
and  the  many  services  to  which  such  animals  are  put.  It  has  been  in  successful  operation 
for  many  years,  and  its  stock,  with  a  par  value  of  $100,  is  now  said  to  be  worth  $1,000  a 

share.  Many  very  in- 
genious machines  are  in 
use  here,  to  produce  varie- 
ties of  horse-shoes  that 
exemplify  the  best  ideas 
of  modern  farriery;  and 
PAWTUCKET  :  RHODE-ISLAND  HORSE-SHOE  COMPANY.  the  products  of  the  works 

are  sent  to  all  parts  of  the  continent.  The  main  offices  are  at  Providence.  F.  W.  Carpenter 
is  president ;  C.  H.  Perkins,  vice-president ;  and  Richard  W.  Comstock,  secretary. 


THE  STATE   OF  RHODE  ISLAND. 


PROVIDENCE  :     AMERICAN    SHIP  WINDLASS    CO. 


"Given  all  things  to  ships  as  they  should 
be,  then  all  ships  should  return,"  said  a  veteran 
ship  captain  who  never  lost  a  vessel.  One  of 
the  vital  equipments  of  a  ship  is  the  windlass  ; 
and  those  manufactured  by  the  American  Ship 
Windlass  Company,  of  Providence,  have  gained 
such  a  reputation  that  90  per  cent,  of  the  best 
American  vessels  have  them.  The  steamships 
of  the  Morgan,  Clyde  and  Mallory  Lines  use 
them,  and  so  also  do  the  war-vessels  of  the  United-States  Navy,  like  the  Baltimore,  Philadel- 
phia, Boston,  Atlanta,  and  Chicago.  A  breadth  of  view  extending  outside  their  own  establish- 
ment has  given  to  this  company  control  of  a  large  number  of  inventions  very  valuable  to  the 
shipping  interest.  A  noteworthy  fact  about  this  establishment  is  that  Frank  S.  Manton,  its 
head,  has  been  connected  with  it  for  more  than  a  third  of  a  century.  Most  of  this  time 
he  has  been  the  business  agent  and  manager ;  and  the  success  of  the  American  Ship  Wind- 
lass Company  is  largely  due  to  his  able  supervision  and  direction  of  affairs. 

What  is  waste  to  one  person  is  a  fortune  to  another,  and  a  marked  example  of  this  is 
shown  in  one  of  the  unique  industries  of  Providence,  that 
of  the  refining  and  smelting  of  precious  metals,  as  done 
by  John  Austin  &  Son.  It  was  during  the  civil  war  that 
this  industry  was  established.  The  specialty  of  the  firm,  - 
and  the  one  in  which  it  stands  at  the  head  in  this  country, 
is  that  of  the  smelting  of  jewelers'  sweepings,  binders'  cot- 
ton waste,  platers'  washings,  and  similar  refuse.  All  this 
a  few  years  ago  was  absolutely  waste  material.  Through 
the  process  followed  in  these  works  a  large  amount  of  this 
otherwise  useless  material  is  absolved  of  its  impurities, 
and  its  valuable  components  extracted.  This  industry  was  started  in  a  small  way,  but  so 
important  has  it  proved  to  many  artisans  throughout  the  country  that  every  year  it  has  in- 
creased, until  now  this  firm  has  amassed  a  great  fortune,  and  attained  a  national  reputation. 
It  is  somewhat  remarkable  that  although  the  house  has  been  so  successful,  and  although 
they  employ  more  than  20  men,  the  scientific  parts  of  the  work  of  refining  and  smelting 
are  invariably  performed  by  the  Messrs.  Austin  themselves.  Three  large  buildings  and  part 

of  another  are  now  occupied  by  the  business. 

The  Rhode-Island  Card  Board  Company  of  Paw- 
tucket  is  the  oldest  house  engaged  in  this  branch 
of  manufacture  in  the  country,  and  dates  its  origin 
from  the  year  1844.  During  the  period  of  nearly 
half  a  century  since  then  it  has  had  a  career  of  un- 
interrupted success.  The  products  include  every 
kind  of  card  board  for  printers  and  photographers, 
and  stock  for  lithographers'  use,  in  many  grades 
and  tints.  The  four-story  brick  building  occupied 
by  the  company  is  supplied  with  valuable  and  in- 
genious labor-saving  machinery,  and  75  operatives 
are  constantly  employed  in  the  manufacture,  build- 
ing up  layers  of  paper  into  card  board,  two-ply,  three-ply,  and  four-ply.  The  product  varies 
from  the  lightest  and  most  delicate  and  flexible  grades  up  to  material  almost  as  thick  and 
strong  as  boards,  and  capable  of  great  endurance.  The  president  of  the  Rhode-Island  Card 
Board  Company  is  Lowell  Emerson,  and  the  treasurer  is  Walter  H.  Stearns. 

The  National  India-Rubber  Company  has  an  immense  plant  at  Bristol,  which  has  em- 
ployed 1,300  operatives,  and  produced  $2,500,000  worth  of  goods  in  a  year. 


PROVIDENCE  :     JOHN    AUSTIN    4    SON. 


PAWTUCKET  :    RHODE-ISLAND    CARD    BOARD    CO. 


780  KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE   UNITED  STATES. 

Another  characteristic  and  prosperous  industry 
of  Rhode  Island  is  the  manufacture  of  phosphatic 
preparations  for  culinary  and  medicinal  purposes, 
in  the  Rumford  Chemical  Works,  at  Rumford  and 
Providence.  These  valuable  and  widely  used  arti- 
cles were  devised  by  Prof.  E.  N.  Horsford  of  Cam- 
bridge (Mass.),  formerly  Rumford  Professor  of 
Chemistry  in  Harvard  University,  and  now  presi- 
dent of  the  company,  which  derives  its  name  from 
the  professorship  and  its  honored  founder.  In  1856 
Prof.  Horsford  conceived  the  idea  of  restoring  to 
bread,  in  the  form  of  a  baking-powder,  the  nutritious  phosphates 
of  which  flour  is  deprived  in  the  process  of  bolting.  He  devised 
a  dry,  white  and  acid  powder,  and  the  works  were  established  to 
manufacture  this  product.  It  is  combined  with  the  proper  ma- 
terials, under  the  several  names  of  Horsford's  Baking  Powder,  Horsford's  Bread  Prepa- 
ration, and  Rumford  Yeast  Powder.  Another  production  is  Horsford's  Acid  Phosphate,  now 
used  by  physicians  in  almost  every  country,  and  "Phosa,"  a  nutritious  and  palatable  drink. 
Another  establishment  that  for  over  half  a  century  has  brought  world-wide  fame  to 
Rhode  Island  is  the  house  of  Perry  Davis  &  Son,  the  originators  and  makers  of  the  Perry 
Davis  Pain-killer.  In  1840  Dr.  Perry  Davis  produced  a  prep- 
aration that  he  knew  would  immediately  alleviate  pain ;  and 
from  that  time  on  he  and  his  successors  have  spent  hundreds 
of  thousands  of  dollars  in  making  known  its  virtues  to  the 
people  of  all  lands.  Wherever  one  goes,  the  world  over,  he 
can  readily  obtain  the  Pain-killer,  a  fact  which  is  abundant 
evidence  of  its  value.  There  is  no  country  in  the  world  to 
which  these  goods  are  not  constantly  being  sent.  The  printed 
matter  of  the  house  is  issued  in  29  different  languages;  and 
the  Pain-killer  is  to  be  found  in  millions  of  houses.  One  of 
the  early  causes  of  its  success  was  the  fact  that  Perry  Davis 
PROVIDENCE  :  PERRY  DAVIS  &  SON.  was  an  or(Jained  Baptist  clergyman,  serving  as  an  itinerant 
preacher.  As  fast  as  he  earned  money  he  contributed  liberally  to  foreign  missions,  and 
the  missionaries  soon  came  to  reciprocate  by  helping  him  to  introduce  the  Pain-killer.  For- 
eign missionaries  are  now  its  warmest  endorsers,  particularly  for  incipient  cases  of  cholera. 
The  Rhode-Island  State  Agricultural  Experiment  Station  was  opened  on  a  farm  of  140 
acres,  at  Kingston,  in  1888,  and  receives  $15,000  yearly  from  the  United  States.  Rhode 
Island  erected  the  granite  building  for  laboratory  and  offices.  Four  bulletins  are  issued 
yearly,  for  free  circulation  among  farmers  and  newspapers.  The  State  Agricultural  School, 
on  the  same  domain,  has  a  granite  College  Hall,  a  veterinary  hospital  and  other  new  build- 
ings. It  was  opened  in  1890,  and  has  nine  instructors  and  54  students,  who  supplement 
class-room  work  with  study  in  the  laboratories,  shops  and  fields.  The  State  erected  the 
buildings,  and  maintains  the  school.  The  Commonwealth  also  has  many  free  scholarships 
in  Brown  University,  to  which  it  gave  the  National  Agricultural  grant  of  1862,  amounting 
to  $50,000.  More  than  40  students  are  kept  on  this  foundation. 

Rhode  Island  wholly  or  partly  supports  50  curable  insane  persons  at  the  Butler  Hos- 
pital, a  private  asylum  at  Providence,  whose  aim  is  "to  provide  suitably  for  persons  of 
refinement."  The  yearly  payment  for  each  State  patient  is  $280.  The  Rhode-Island 
Soldiers'  Home  was  opened  in  1891,  on  a  spacious  farm  near  Bristol,  and  has  66  inmates. 

The  Dorr  Rebellion  of  1843  was  caused  by  the  dissatisfaction  of  the  suffrage  party  with 
the  old  colonial  charter,  which  disfranchised  all  but  property-owners.  Dorr  endeavored 
to  seize  the  arsenal,  but  was  driven  away,  and  afterwards  dispersed  by  United- States  forces. 


HISTORY. 


2,194 

220 
11,472 

$16,738,008 
.  22,128 
$2,836,289 


About  3,000  Indians 
lived  in  South  Carolina 
when  the  first  settlers  ar- 
rived. The  mountain-dwel- 
ling Cherokees  numbered 
1,000 ;  and  the  Catawbas, 
between  Cheraw  and  York- 
ville,  i,  600.  The  Yamas- 
sees,  Sewees,  Congarees, 

Winyaws,  Waccamaws,  and  other  tribes  were  unimportant. 
There  were  more  than  a  score  of  these  little  clans,  each 
with  its  distinct  language.  About  131  Catawbas  now  dwell 
in  the  State.  The  Saludas  migrated  to  Pennsylvania ;  the 
Tuscaroras,  to  New  York  ;  and  the  Yamassees  to  Florida. 
The  Sewees  were  lost  at  sea,  having,  after  long  delibera- 
tion, started  in  a  fleet  of  canoes,  to  make  a  commercial 
voyage  to  England. 

The  first  European  adventurers  who  reached  the  South- 
Carolina  shores  were  a  group  of  Spanish  slave-hunters  from 
Hispaniola,  who  (in  1520)  landed  on  St.  Helena  and 
claimed  the  country  for  Spain.  They  seized  70  natives,  to 
be  sold  into  slavery,  but  most  of  these  captives  preferred 
and  welcomed  death.  In  1523  the  Emperor  Charles  V. 
commissioned  Vazquez  de  Ayllon  to  conquer  this  land, 
but  the  expedition  came  to  grief,  and  500  Spanish  soldiers 
died.  In  1562  Ribault's  vessels  arrived  on  the  coast,  bear- 
ing a  gallant  band  of  Huguenots,  sent  out  by  Admiral  Col- 
igny.  On  the  site  of  Beaufort  they  built  the  defences  of 
Charles  Fort  (Arx  Carolina),  where  26  men  stayed  for  a  year, 
and  then  returned  to  France.  Ribault  named  this  noble 
haven  Port  Royal,  saying :  "Wee  stroke  our  sailes  and  cast 
anker.  The  greatest  shippes  of  France,  yea,  the  argosies  of 
Venice,  may  enter  in  there. " 

King  Charles  II.  granted  Carolina  to  the  lords-proprie- 
tors in  1663 ;  and  seven  years  later  their  little  fleet  reached  Beaufort.     Finding  this  sit 
perilously  near  the  truculent  Spaniards  of  Florida,  the  colonists  moved  to  the  Ashley  River, 
and  founded  Charles  Town.     The  little  colony  had  to  fight  the  Indians  on  one  side,  and  on 


STATISTICS. 


Settled  at  .    . 
Settled  in   .    . 
Founded  by    . 
One  of  the  Orig 
Population  in  li 
In  1870,    .    . 


.     .     .       Charleston 
.    .     .     .  1670 

.     .        Englishmen, 
inal  13  States. 

703,708 
705,606 


Ini88o, 995, 

American-born,     .     .     .         7,891 
Foreign-born,  ....        7,686 

Males, 490,408 

Females, 505,169 

In  1890  (U.  S.  Census),     .  1,151,149 
White  (1890),    ....     458,454 
Colored  (1890),  ,    .     .     .     692,503 
Population  to  the  square  mile,     33.0 
Voting  Population,     .     .     .     205,789 

Vote  for  Harrison  (1888),        13,736 

Vote  for  Cleveland  (i8?8),  65,825 
Net  State  Debt,  .  .  $6,473,476.38 
Assessed  Valuation  of 

Property  (1890),  .  $132,000,000 
Area  (square  miles),  .  .  .  3O,57° 
U.  S.  Representatives  (1893),  7 

Militia  (Disciplined),      .    .         5,513 

Counties 35 

Post-offices, 1,181 

Railroads  (miles),  .     .     . 
Vessels, 

Tonnage, 

Manufactures  (yearly),    . 

Operatives,      .... 

Yearly  Wages,    .     .    . 
Farm  Land  (in  acres), 

Farm-Land  Values, 

Farm  Products  (yearly) 
Public  Schools,  Average 

Daily  Attendance,  .    .    .     136,35° 

Newspapers, 120 

Latitude,  .  .  32°4/3o//  to  35°i2'  N. 
Longitude,  .  .  78°25'  to  83*19'  W. 
Temperature,  ....  ii8  to  1040 
Mean  Temperature  (Columbia),  62° 


TEN   CHIEF  CITIES  AND  THEIR   POP- 
ULATIONS.    (Census  of  1890.) 


Charleston,  . 
Columbia,  . 
Greenville,  . 
Spartanburg, 
Sumter,  .  . 
Beaufort, 
Camden,  .  . 
Florence,  . 
Newberry,  . 
Anderson,  . 




1,669,749 


3,587 
3,533 
3,395 
3,020 
3,018 


782 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 


SPARTANBURG : 
COWPENS    MONUMENT. 


the  other  the  Spaniards  from  Florida,  whose  galleys  plundered  the  Sea  Islands,  destroyed 
Port  Royal  and  attacked  Charleston.  For  some  years  the  Carolinas  were  governed  under 
John  Locke's  fantastical  Fundamental  Constitutions,  with  their  palatines,  landgraves,  cas- 
siques  and  barons.  The  cessation  of  the  obnoxious  Proprietary  government, 
and  the  formal  division  of  Carolina  into  North  and  South,  occurred  in  1 729 
(they  had  been  under  practically  different  governments  since  1690).  The 
name  "South  Carolina,"  appears  in  the  Statutes  at  Large  in  1696. 

The  immigrants  of  the  next  few  decades  included  a  Dutch  colony 
from  New  Amsterdam,  on  John's  Island ;  a  Congregational  church 
from  Dorchester,  Mass.,  to  Dorchester,  S.  C. ;  370  Swiss  at  Purys- 
burg ;  bands  of  Scotch  Covenanters,  from  County  Down,  in  Williams- 
burg  ;  Germanic  tribes,  in  Orangeburg ;  Welshmen,  on  the  Pee  Dee ; 
Scottish  Highlander  rebels,  in  the  hill-country;  Irish  Quakers,  at 
Camden ;  French  Huguenots,  at  New  Bordeaux";  hundreds  of  Penn- 
sylvanians  and  Virginians,  seeking  safety  after  Braddock's  defeat; 
and  many  cargoes  of  African  slaves,  brought  into  Charleston. 

The  Revolution  became  a  bitter  civil  war  in  South  Carolina,  for 
many  of  her  people  were  rancorous  Tories,  who  devastated  the 
homes  of  the  patriots  without  mercy,  under  the  protection  of  British  armies.  But  in  the 
deep  swamps  Marion  and  Sumter  and  other  heroic  leaders  assembled  efficient  partisan 
forces  of  Carolinians,  and  kept  up  an  unceasing  warfare  against  the  King's  forces.  In  1776 
Sir  Peter  Parker  and  a  powerful  fleet  attacked  the  palmetto  fort  on  Sullivan's  Island,  near 
Charleston,  and  was  beaten  off  by  the  Second  and  Third  South-Carolina  Regiments,  with 
great  loss.  Four  years  later,  Sir  Henry  Clinton  captured  the  town,  by  siege,  and  with  it 
Gen.  Lincoln's  army,  after  which  the  State  was  over-run  and  garrisoned  by  the  Royalists. 

Gates  advanced  south  from  Virginia,  with  3,663 
Americans,  and  Cornwallis  shattered  his  army 
at  Camden,  and  took  all  his  guns;  and  a  year 
later  (1781)  he  defeated  Gen.  Greene,  near  the 
same  place,  but  suffered  such  losses  that  he 
was  compelled  to  retreat.  Then  the  local 
militia  reduced  the  British  forts  at  Orangeburg, 
Granby,  Augusta,  Georgetown  and  Ninety-six. 
CHARLESTON  HARBOR  :  FORT  SUMTER.  In  September  a  sharp  battle  was  fought  at 

Eutaw  Springs,  and  the  Royal  troops  retired  to  Charleston,  which  was  finally  evacuated  by 
Gen.  Leslie,  December  I4th,  1782,  and  occupied  by  Wayne's  Pennsylvanians. 

In  1832  the  Convention  at  Columbia  pronounced  the  United-States  tariff  "null,  void, 
and  no  law,  nor  binding  on  this  State,  its  officers  or  citizens,"  adding  that  if  the  tariff  should 
be  forced  upon  her,  South  Carolina  would  leave  the  Union.  Gov.  Hayne  and  the  General 
Assembly  ratified  this  Nullification  Ordinance,  whereupon  President  Jackson  proclaimed 
nullification  to  be  treason,  and  sent  Gen.  Scott  to  Charleston. 

As  soon  as  Lincoln  was  elected  President,  South 
Carolina  called  a  convention,  which  (December  2oth, 
1860)  declared  that  the  Union  between  her  and  the 
other  States  was  dissolved.  The  same  week,  Maj. 
Anderson,  commanding  the  United-Stated  troops  at 
Charleston,  transferred  his  forces  to  Fort  Sumter, 
which  was  bombarded  by  the  investing  Confederate 
batteries,  April  12-13,  an<^  compelled  to  surrender. 
At  one  time  South  Carolina  had  44,000  men  in  the 
Confederate  armies,  her  entire  enlistments  reaching 
60,000.  Of  these,  I2,ooo  died  in  the  service.  The  CHARLESTON:  RESIDENCES  ON  THE  BATTERY. 


THE  STATE   OF  SOUTH  CAROLINA.  7g 

first  return  of  the  Stars  and  Stripes  to  South  Carolina  came  as  early  as  November,  1861, 
when  Flag-Officer  DuPont  and  50  vessels  bombarded  the  Confederate  forts  at  Port  Royal, 
which  were  afterwards  held  throughout  the  war,  by  Federal  forces.  An  ineffectual  attempt 
was  made  to  seal  up  Charleston  harbor  by  sinking  in  its  outer  channels 
condemned  whaling-ships  laden  with  stones. 

In  April,  1863,  Rear- Admiral  DuPont  attacked  the  Charleston 
forts  with  seven  ironclads,  and  suffered  a  serious  repulse.  A  few  weeks 
later,  Gen.  Gillmore  began  the  siege  of  Charleston,  advancing  by  Fol- 
ly and  Morris  Islands ;  reducing  Battery  Gregg  and  Fort  Wagner 
by  parallels,  after  direct  assaults  had  failed ;  and  then  from  their 
ramparts  raining  shot  and  shell  on  the  city  for  weeks.  In  February, 
1865,  Gen.  Sherman  marched  northward  from  Savannah  with  his 
great  army,  occupying  Branchville,  Columbia,  Camden,  Cheraw, 
and  other  towns.  Gen.  Hardee  evacuated  Charleston,  and  a 
National  brigade  occupied  it. 

The  great  earthquake   in   Charleston,   August  31,    1886,    de- 
CHARLESTON  :  stroyed  $5,000,000  in  property,  and  many  lives. 

JASPER  MONUMENT.  South  Carolina  has  always  been  distinguished  for  the  courage 

and  vigoi  of  its  counsels  and  actions  in  political  affairs,  and  has  in  many  regards  stood  as 
the  intellectual  leader  of  the  South.  Thousands  of  people  remember,  with  Trescot;  "The 
love  of  South  Carolina,  the  solemn  music  of  the  wind  in  her  pine  forests,  the  glory  of  the 
sunlight  on  her  broad  marshes,  the  glow  of  the  great  ocean  as  it  clasps  her  beautiful  coasts." 
The  Name  of  the  State  has  an  origin  similar  to  that  of  North  Carolina.  The  pet  name 
is  THE  PALMETTO  STATE,  from  the  palmetto  tree  on  the  seal  of  the  commonwealth. 

The  Arms  of  South  Carolina  show  a  palmetto  tree,  and  a  female  figure  representing 
Faith.  The  mottos  are  Animis  Opibusque  Parati  ("  Prepared  in  mind  and  resources")  and 
Dum  Spiro  Spero  ("While  I  breathe,  I  hope"). 

The  Governors  have  been  :  Chas.  Pinckney,  1789-92,  1796-8,  and  1 806-8  ;  A.  Van- 
derhorst,  1792-4;  "Wm.  Moultrie,  1794-6;  Edward  Rutledge,  1798-1800;  John  Dray  ton, 
1800-2;  J.  B.  Richardsc*,  1802-4;  Paul  Hamilton,  1804-6;  John  Drayton,  1808-10; 
Henry  Middleton,  1810-12  ;  Jos.  Alston,  1812-14;  D.  R.  Williams,  1814-16;  Andrew 
Pickens,  1816-18;  John  Geddes,  1818-20;  Tl.oc.  ^nnett,  1820-2;  J.  L.Wilson,  1822-4; 
R.  J.  Manning,  1824-6;  John  Taylor,  1826-8;  S.  P.  filler,  1828-30;  J.  Hamilton, 
1830-2;  R.  Y.  Hayne,  1832-4;  Geo.  McDuffie,  1834-6;  Pierce  M.  Butler,  1836-8; 
Patrick  Noble,  1838-40;  J.  P.  Richardson,  1840-2;  J.  H.  Hammond,  1842-4;  Wm. 
Aiken,  1844-6;  David  Johnson,  1846-8;  W.  B.  Seabrook,  1848-50;  John  H.  Means, 
1850-2;  J.  L.  Manning,  1852-4;  J.  H.  Adams,  1854-6;  R.  F.  W.  Alston,  1856-8;  W. 
H.  Gist,  1858-60;  F.  W.  Pickens,  1860-2;  M.  L.  Bonham,  1862-4;  A.  G.  Magrath, 
1864-5;  >s.  L.  Orr,  1865-8;  R.  K.  Scott,  1868-72;  F.  J.  Moses,  Jr.,  1872-5;  D.  H. 
Chamberlain,  1875-7;  Wade  Hampton,  1877-8;  W.  D.  Simpson,  1878-80;  Johnson 
Hagood,  1880-2;  Hugh  S.  Thompson,  1882-6;  J.  P.  Richardson,  1886-90;  and  Ben  R. 
Tillman,  1890-2. 

Descriptive. —  South  Carolina  forms  an  isosceles  triangle,  with  the  coast  for  the  base, 
and  the  sides,  bounding  on  North  Carolina  and  Georgia,  meeting  on  the  crest  of  the  Blue 
Ridge.  The  low  country  extends  inland  for  100  miles,  to  the  crystalline  rocks,  where  the 
up-country  begins.  The  light-colored  sandy  loam,  the  still  rivers,  the  magnolias  and  long- 
leaf  pines  and  trailing  gray  mosses  of  the  one  are  sharply  contrasted  with  the  red-clay  hills 
and  rapid  streams  and  oak  forests  of  the  other ;  and  as  great  a  difference  is  perceived  in  the 
manners  and  characters  of  their  populations.  The  lowlanders  were  the  dutiful  subjects  of 
the  lords-proprietors,  and  came  mainly  from  Europe,  with  their  outposts  at  Hamburg,  Col- 
umbia, Camden  and  Cheraw,  and  their  communications  by  boat  along  the  innumerable 
sounds  and  inlets  of  the  coast.  The  Upper-Carolinians  were  almost  exclusively  hardy 


7g4  KING'S  HANDBOOK   OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 

frontiersmen  from  Pennsylvania  and  Virginia,  who  came  down  by 
wagons  along  the  troughs  of  the  Blue  Ridge,  and  for  over  a  cen- 
tury kept  up  overland  trade  with  their  old  homes.. 

The  Sea  Islands  lie  south  of  the  Santee,  and  mainly  off  Port  Royal, 
covering  800  square  miles,  bordered  by  600  square  miles  of  low  salt- 
marshes.  They  face  the  sea  with  beaches  of  snowy  whiteness,  be- 
yond which  tower  dark  green  pines,  moss-draped  live-oaks,  and 
lone  palmettos,  rising  from  jungles  of  myrtles  and  pines.  The  coast 
extends  1  90  miles,  from  the  Savannah  River  to  Little  River.  North 
of  Winyaw  Bay  it  is  a  continuous  beach  of  firm  gray  sand,  sometimes 
for  20  miles  without  a  break.  South  of  Winyaw  a  network  of  sounds 
and  inlets  extends,  between  and  behind  the  Sea  Islands,  as  far  as 
Florida,  and  steamboat  lines  (especially  between  Charleston  and 
Savannah)  follow  this  sheltered  inside  route.  The  Lower  Pine  or 
Savannah  Region  lies  next  inland,  with  a  width  of  5°  miles,  in- 
cluding the  rice-fields  and  the  turpentine  country  and  cattle-ranges. 

The  lowland  region  also  bears  oranges,  figs  "and  olives,  and  vast  quantities  of  wild  grapes. 
The  Upper  Pine  Belt,  Central  Cotton  Belt,  or  Middle  Country,  is  20  miles  wide,  with  light 
sandy  loam,  great  swamps,  and  rolling  forests  of  long-leaf  pine,  oak  and  hickory  In  this 
region  are  Orangeburg  and  Sumter.  The  Red  Hills,  300  to  600  feet  above  the  sea,  are  com- 
posed of  red  clay  and  sand,  overgrown  with  oak  and  hickory,  and  including  the  fertile 
ridge-lands  of  Edgefield  and  the  High  Hills  of  Santee.  The  Sand  Hills,  or  Pine  Barrens, 
run  northeast  across  the  State,  from  Augusta  to  Cheraw,  155  miles,  with  a  width  of  from 
20  to  30  miles,  and  an  area  of  2,400  square  miles.  Aiken,  Columbia,  Camden  and  Cheraw 
stand  in  this  belt.  In  some  localities  the  hills  are  of  dazzling  white  sand,  and  elsewhere 
great  forests  of  long-leaf  pine  sweep  over  the  ridges.  More  than  half  of  the  population  is 
colored  ;  and  only  a  tenth  of  the  country  has  been  cultivated. 

The  Piedmont  region,  400  to  800  feet  high,  has  the  cold  gray  slate  lands,  gray  granite 
soils,  red  hornblende  lands,  and  flatwoods  meadow,  or  black-jack  l^iids.  Here  stand  the 
towns  of  Abbeville,  Winnsboro,  Greenville,  Newberry  and  Spp"  tauburg. 

The  Alpine  region,  114  miles  long  and  from  eight  to  21  miles  wide,  is  a  rolling  table- 
land, 1,000  to  i,  500  feet  high,  ascend'  :,fe  \.v  ihe  Saluda  Mountains,  along  whose  summits 
the  State  boundary  runs  for  50  miles.  The  highlands  culminate  in  Mount  Pinnacle,  3,436 
feet  high,  near  Pickens  Court  House.  This  is  a  land  of  noble  scenery,  bracing  and  healthy 
climate,  luxuriant  soil,  clear  streams  and  mineral  springs.  The  rivers  pour  down  from 

_/  z-  the  Blue  Ridge  to  their  falls  at  the 

^  end  of  the  crystalline   rocks,   and 

then  pass  slowly  on  to  the  sea.  The 
Savannah  is  navigable  to  Hamburg, 
158  miles,  and  many  small  boats  de- 
scend it  from  Anderson  ville,  100 

.  .-  v^v^r:.  •-  miles   higher   up.     The    Santee  is 

navigated  by  steamers  for  its  whole 

STATUE  AND  CITADEL,  ON  MARION  SQUARE. 


may  be  ascended  to  Granby,  two  miles  below  Columbia;  and  the  Wateree,  to  Camden.  The 
Saluda,  Broad  and  Catawba  rivers  are  traversed  by  small  boats,  even  up  into  the  Blue  Ridge, 
their  rapids  being  overcome  by  many  miles  of  canals  and  locks.  Steamboats  go  up  the 
Great  Pee  Dee  to  Cheraw,  120  miles;  and  other  streams  of  the  northeast  are  navigable. 
The  fisheries  employ  1,000  men.  The  Ashley  and  Cooper  Rivers  enter  Charleston  harbor, 
which  is  surrounded  by  the  low  Sea  Islands,  and  by  marshes  covered  at  high  tide.  Steamboats 
run  regularly  from  Charleston  to  Columbia,  250  miles  ;  to  Georgetown  and  Cheraw,  300 
miles  ;  and  through  the  creeks  to  Beaufort,  Port  Royal  and  Savannah.  The  fishermen  are 


CHARLESTON  I    ST. -PAUL'S   CHURCH. 


COLUMBIA  :    SOUTH-CAROLINA    UNIVERSITY. 


THE  STATE   OF  SOUTH  CAROLINA.  785 

chiefly  negroes,  about  Charleston  and  Winyaw  Bay. 
The  rivers  have  been  stocked  with  valuable  food- 
fish.  South  Carolina  leads  all  the  States  in  shrimp, 
with  a  yearly  catch  of  18,000  bushels. 

The  Climate  resembles  that  of  southern 
Europe,  with  warm  and  dry  winters  and  a  prevail- 
ing equability.  The  sea-breezes  refresh  the  shore- 
counties,  and  the  up-country  is  cooled  from  the 
Blue  Ridge,  where  much  snow  falls  in  winter.  The 
rice-lands  are  uninhabitable  by  whites  in  summer, 
although  the  negroes  can  endure  their  climate.  The 
Sea  Islands  have  a  relatively  delightful  summer  climate,  whence  many  of  the  planters  bring 
their  families  here.  The  climate  of  the  sand-hills  is  dry,  tonic  and  stimulating,  free  from 
malaria,  and  full  of  sunshine,  with  prevailing  south  and  south-west  winds,  and  rare  and 
transient  snows  or  fogs.  The  waters 
are  pure  and  transparent ;  and  the 
air  is  at  once  free  from  bleakness 
and  from  debilitating  influences. 
The  mean  temperature  of  Aiken  in 
winter  is  46.4°,  and  in  spring 
63.4°,  and  the  far  -  surrounding 
pine-forests  fill  the  air  with  heal- 
ing terebinthine  perfumes.  For 
many  years  this  has  been  one  of  the  great  refuges  for  consumptives  and  rheumatics,  and 
thousands  of  others  frequent  the  locality. 

Farming. — South  Carolina  is  mainly  an  agricultural  State,  and  her  farm-products 
reach  nearly  $50,000,000  yearly,  including  the  cereals,  hay  and  rice,  tobacco  and  cotton. 
The  farms  were  valued  in  1860  at  $146,000,000,  and  in 
1870  at  only  $47,000,000.  70  per  cent,  of  the  laborers  are 
colored.  6 1  per  cent,  of  the  colored  women  and  children, 
and  23  of  the  whites,  work  on  the  farms.  The  fields  furnish 
abundant  crops  of  vegetables  and  berries,  including  vast  quan- 
tities of  strawberries  for  the  North  ;  the  orchards  produce 
oranges,  lemons,  olives,  pomegranates,  figs,  peaches,  apples, 
quinces,  and  other  delicious  fruits;  and  the  gardens  are  odor- 
ous and  brilliant  with  Cherokee  roses,  jessamines,  camelias, 
hyacinths,  and  hundreds  of  other  flowers.  Cotton  has  been  raised  here  ever  since  the 
colony  came  into  being.  Its  export  began  about  a  century  ago.  The  output  in  1860 
was  353,412  bales,  valued  at  $14,000,000  ;  and  after  a  sharp  fall  to  1870,  it  rose  again,  in 
1880,  to  516,490  bales,  of  475  pounds  each, 
and  in  1887  to  605,000  bales,  valued  at  $24,- 
ooo,  ooo,  over  half  the  agricultural  output  of  the 
State.  Sea-Island  cotton  was  first  raised  in 
1790,  at  Hilton  Head,  and  in  1887  reached  an 
output  of  15,000,000  pounds  of  long-staple, 
since  which  it  has  been  falling  off.  Most  of 
the  island  plantations  are  owned  or  rented  by 
colored  men.  The  Edisto-Island  cotton  is  the 
best  in  the  world,  and  has  brought  20  times 
as  much  a  pound  as  any  other. 

Rice  culture  began  here  in  1693,  from  seed 
brought  from  Madagascar,  by  a  vessel  which 


ORANGEBURG  :  CLAFLIN   UNIVERSITY. 


CHARLESTON  :  ORPHAN  ASYLUM. 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE    UNITED   STATES. 

put  into  Charleston  in  distress;  and  60  years  later  the  col- 
ony exported  over  10,000  barrels  annually.  In  1850  the 
crop  exceeded  256,000  tierces  ;  but  by  1884  it  had  fallen 
to  34,000.  In  1887  it  amounted  to  70,000,000  pounds, 
valued  at  $1,400,000.  Carolina  rice  is  the  best  in  the 
world,  and  is  carefully  prepared  here,  by  ingenious  pro- 
cesses. This  State  is  the  leading  one  in  growing  rice, 
and  its  vast  tidal  marshes  afford  capital  opportunities 
for  its  extension.  When  gathered  it  is  covered  with 
a  thick  hull,  know  as  the  paddy.  The  rice  then  has  to  go  through  a  pounding  operation, 
and  when  the  paddy  is  broken  off  it  passes  through  the  second  stage.  Although  the  shell  is 
removed,  the  grains  of  rice  are  covered  with  a  very  fine  powder,  which  has  to  be  brushed 
off.  The  brushing  machine  is  of  a  peculiar  construction.  Rotary  brushes  catch  up  the  rice, 
sweep  the  dust  from  it,  and  throw  the  grains,  all  cleaned,  into  a  hopper,  through  which  it  is 
fed  to  sacks  and  barrels.  Originally  this  was  done  by  hand,  but  the  great  demand  for  do- 
mestic rice  necessitated  the  introduction  of  machinery.  Much  of  the  imported  rice  is  treated 
in  this  way  in  New- York  City,  but  the  domestic  rice  is  cleaned  in  the  vicinity  of  the  mill. 
Charleston  is  the  principal  receiving  point  for  the  rice  of  the  South  Atlantic  States;  and  the 
West  Point  Mill  Co.  of  Charleston  operates  the  largest  rice-mill  in  the  United  States.  Th 
plant  is  located  in  the  western  part  of  Charleston, 
and  covers  about  1 6  acres  of  land.  The  mill  build- 
ing is  of  brick,  and  is  three  stories  in  height,  and 
there  are  four  warehouses  for  the  storage  of  stock. 
About  35  hands  are  employed  and  the  annual  pay- 
roll approximates  $30,000.  The  output  last  year 
amounted  to  300,000  barrels  of  clean  rice  and  rice 
flour.  The  waste  in  bulk  is  considerable,  as  the 
above  output  amounted  to  313,000  barrels  of  rough 
rice  or  paddy.  The  West  Point  Rice-Mill  product, 
aside  from  that  sold  from  the  main  office,  is  handled 
by  Dan.  Talmage's  Sons,  the  representative  mill-brokerage  house  of  this  country. 

The  State  raises  yearly  18,000,000  bushels  of  corn,  and  4,000,000  of  oats.  The 
turpentine-stills  in  the  lowlands  employ  7,000  men,  with  a  yearly  yield  of  $3,000,000, 
being  one  third  of  the  American  output.  The  lumber  product  is  $6,000,000  yearly,  em- 
ploying 6,000  persons.  The  live-stock  is  valued  at  $20,000,000,  and  profit  is  found  in 
dairying  and  in  raising  cattle  for  beef. 

Minerals. — Gold  has  been  mined  in  sixty  places,  before  the  war,  and  two  of  the  mines 
produced  over  $1,000,000  each.  There  are  now  four  mines,  mainly  in  Lancaster  County, 
with  100  miners,  and  a  yearly  product  of  $100,000.  Silver,  lead,  copper  and  graphite 
appear  in  small  quantities,  and  inexhaustible  supplies  of  iron  ores.  White  and  colored 
marbles,  blue  and  white  granites,  manganese,  barytes,  asbestos,  soapstone,  corundum,  mica, 

ochre,  kaolin  and  whetstones  abound  in 


CHARLESTON  I     WEST-POINT    MILL    CO. 


the  Piedmont  region.  In  the  Aiken 
neighborhood  inexhaustible  deposits  of 
kaolin  are  found  and  mined,  and  several 
factories  have  been  put  into  operation. 
From  this  mineral  the  finest  Sevres  china 
and  porcelain  can  be  made,  as  well  as  the 
commoner  and  more  useful  earthenwares. 
The  river-beds  of  South  Carolina  now  produce  231,000  tons  of  phosphate  rock  in  a 

year,  and  the  land-beds  nearly  400,000  tons,  and  the  industry  is  continually  increasing. 

Nearly  half  of  this  output  is  shipped  away.      It  brings  from  $3. 50  to  $9. 50  a  ton.     The 


CHARLESTON  I     CITY    HOSPITAL. 


THE  STATE   OF  SOUTH  CAROLINA. 


787 


WORKS  OF  THE  CHARLESTON  MINING  &  MANUFACTURING   CO. 


State  receives  a  royalty  on  phosphate  rock  from  the  beds  of  streams.     The  land  rock  is 
crushed  by  40  local  factories  into  fertilizing  material.     Beaufort  ships  more  than  half  the 

phosphate,  and  Charleston  the  rest. 
The  use  of  commercial  fertilizers 
by  farmers  has  now  become  general, 
and  the  variety  most  universally  used 
is  phosphate  of  lime.  The  Charles- 
ton (S.  C.)  Mining  &  Manufacturing 
Company  owns  the  largest  land  phos- 
phate mines  in  the  world.  The 
company  was  organized  in  1867  ;  and 
was  the  pioneer  to  develop  the  phosphates  in  South  Carolina.  The  capital  is  $1,000,000 ; 
and  its  stock  is  worth  double  its  par  value.  About  16,000  acres  of  land,  containing  the 
richest  deposits  of  available  phosphate  in  the  State,  are  owned  by  them.  The  phosphate  is  of 
nodular  formation,  and  is  found  in  a  well-defined  stratum  of  from  one  to  three  feet  thick,  at  an 
average  depth  of  five  feet.  The  works  of  the  company,  on  Ashley  River,  15  miles  from 
Charleston,  have  an  average  daily  capacity  of  300  tons;  the  drying-bins  hold  about  15,000 
tons  of  kiln-dried  phosphate.  They  have  their  own  machine,  carpenter  and  blacksmith 
shops,  where  their  cars  are  built,  and  their 
repairing  done.  Seven  miles  of  railway 
penetrate  their  mining  fields,  and  a  number 
of  small  locomotives,  with  their  trains, 
draw  the  phosphate  to  the  washers.  About 
1,000  hands  are  employed  in  the  various 
operations  of  the  company.  The  mines 
are  worked  without  cessation  throughout 
the  year,  and  at  the  present  rate  of  produc- 
tion, the  supply  will  last  over  a  hundred 
years.  The  total  annual  output  of  South-Carolina  phosphates  is  about  500,000  tons,  and 
is  shipped  to  all  parts  of  the  world.  Of  this  amount,  the  Charleston  (S.  C.)  Mining  & 
Manufacturing  Company  ships  over  100,000  tons.  The  main  office  of  the  company  is  in 
Philadelphia  (Pa.),  where  its  chief  stockholders  reside. 

Government. —  The  governor  and  executive  officers-are  elected  every  two  years.  The 
General  Assembly  includes  35  four-year  senators  and  124  two-year  representatives.  The  Su- 
preme Court  has  three  justices,  appointed  for  six  years ;  and  there  are  criminal,  probate  and 
justices'  courts.  The  State  House  is  built  of  cyclopean  blocks  of  local  granite.  It  was  be- 
gun in  1850,  and  has  cost  above  $2,000,000,  although  not  nearly  finished.  The  State 
/'>-•// .  ^s^^-^  .  Volunteer  Troops  include  71  companies,  in  three  regiments 

and  four  battalions  of  infantry,  two  regiments  and  three 
battalions  of  cavalry,  and  three  batteries,  besides  a  sea- 
coast  battalion.  The  National  Guard  has  18  companies.  All 
of  these  soldiers  wear  the  uniform  of  the  United- States 
Army,  furnished  by  the  Government.  The  State  pays 
pensions  to  600  disabled  Confederate  veterans,  and  1,500 
widows  of  those  killed  in  the  service.  The  Penitentiary, 
at  Columbia,  has  900  prisoners,  nearly  all  negroes,  and 
is  self-supporting,  the  convicts  working  in  the  phosphate  mines  and  prison  shoe-shops.  The 
Lunatic  Asylum,  at  Columbia,  has  800  inmates.  The  Institution  for  the  Education  of 
the  Blind,  Deaf  and  Dumb,  at  Cedar  Springs,  has  loo  inmates. 

Education  is  not  well  supported,  especially  in  the  free  schools,  but  much  progress  has 
been  made  since  1870,  and  several  of  the  cities  now  have  efficient  graded  schools.  In  the 
country,  the  appropriations  are  small,  and  the  yearly  sessions  have  been  reduced  to  less  than 


CHARLESTON  !     ST. -MICHAEL'S    CHURCH. 


CHARLESTON  :     CENTRE    MARKET. 


7 88  KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

four  months.  South-Carolina  College  was  opened  in  1804,  as  a  State  institution,  and  in 
1888  changed  its  name  to  South-Carolina  University.  Lieber  and  Cooper  were  among  its 
professors  ;  and  in  the  roll  of  its  2,000  graduates  were  Legar6,  McDuffie,  Preston,  22  State 
governors,  60  congressmen,  five  bishops,  and  33  judges  and  chancellors.  This  noble  old  insti- 
tution occupies  an  extensive  campus  at  Columbia,  where  great  trees  overshadow  many  dig- 
nified and  stately  buildings.  The  College  of  Charleston  dates  from  1785,  and  has  400  gradu- 
ates, including  the  poet  Hayne,  the  diplomat  Trescot,  and  De  Bow,  of  the  Review.  The 
South-Carolina  Military  Academy,  in  the  Citadel  at  Charleston,  is  maintained  by  the  State. 


CHARLESTON  \  CUSTOM  HOUSE. 


It   was  founded  half  a  century  ago,  as  a  child  of 

West  Point,  and  has  graduated  many  distinguished 

military  officers,  civil  engineers,  and  other  notables. 

In  1854  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church,  South, 

opened  Wofford  College,  at  Spartanburg.     It  now 

has  ten  professors  and  60  students.     Of  almost  the 

same   size    is   Newberry   College,  founded   by  the 

Lutherans  in  1858.     Somewhat  smaller  is  Furman 

University,  founded  by  the  Baptists,  at  Greenville 

in  1851 ;  and  Adger  College,  at  Walhalla,  founded 

by  the  Presbyterians,  in  1877.     Erskine  College,  at  Due  West,  belongs  to  the  Associate 

Reformed  Presbyterians.     The  crown  of  the  great  system  of  education  for  the  colored 

people  is  Claflin  University,  at  Orangeburg,  founded  by  the  benevolence  of  the  Hon.  Lee 

Claflin  and  the  Hon.  Wm.  Claflin,  of  Boston  (Mass.),  in  1869,  and  now  teaching  nearly  a 

thousand  colored  men  and  women,  with  schools  also  of  agriculture,  carpentry,  printing, 

tailoring,   shoe-making,  painting,  blacksmithing,   merchandising  and  domestic  economy. 

Allen  University,  at  Columbia,  is  managed  by  the  colored  people. 

Railroads. —  The  tenantless  houses  and  grassy  streets  of  ancient  Charleston  compelled 
her  Chamber  of  Commerce  to  reach  out  for  trade,  and  in  1827  they  secured  a  charter  for  a 
railroad  to  Hamburg,  which  was  begun  in  1830  and  finished  in  1833,  being  then  and  for 
many  years  later  the  longest  continuous  railroad  in  the  world  (136  miles).  This  also  has  the 
honor  of  being  the  first  railroad  to  carry  the  United-States  mail  (February,  1832).  It  was 
built  on  piles  six  feet  apart,  bound  together  by  transverse  sleepers,  and  surmounted  by  long 
varnished  wooden  rails,  five  feet  apart  and  nine  inches  square,  with  flat  bar-iron  nailed  to 
the  inner  side  of  the  top.  The  Atlantic  Coast  Line  includes  the  Wilmington,  Columbia 
&  Augusta ;  the  Northeastern,  from  Florence  to  Charleston ;  and  the  lines  to  Conway, 
Bishopville,  Dillon,  Cheraw  and  other  points.  The  Piedmont  Air  Line  includes  the  various 
lines  of  the  Richmond  &  Danville  Railroad  in  the  hill  country.  The  South-Carolina  Rail- 
way runs  northwest  from  Charleston  to  Columbia,  Aiken  and  Augusta. 

Chief  Cities. —  Columbia,  the  capital,  near  the  centre  of  the  State,  is  a  pleasant  littl 
city,  with  impressive  public  buildings,  the  intersections  of  several  railways,  and  machine, 
and  iron  works.     It  is  a  city  of  wide  streets,  shaded  squares  and  flowery  parterres. 

Charleston  is  a  handsome  old  city,  facing  from  its  verdant  and  aristocratic  Battery  on 
broad  and  historic  harbor,  which  is  traversed  by  a  large  commerce,  and  lines  of  steamshij 
to  New  York,  Boston,  Baltimore,  Philadelphia  and   Savannah.      Up   to  within   75  year 
Charleston  had  a  larger  commerce  than  New  York,  but  its  yearly  exports  are  now  scarcelj 
above  $20,000,000,  mainly  of  cotton,  naval  stores  and  phosphate.     The  city  has  an  ink 
trade  of  $30,000,000  a  year;  and  its  360  factories  employ  5,200  persons. 

Up  the  coast  is  quaint  old  Georgetown,  with  its  maritime  commerce.  Down  the  coas 
little  Port  Royal  looks  out  on  one  of  the  noblest  of  American  harbors,  with  aristocratic  ol 
Beaufort  farther  in,  crowning  the  bluffs  with  its  famous  shell-road  and  promenade. 

The  Manufactures  include  cotton  goods  and  gins,  flour,  fertilizers,  lumber,  and  tar  an< 
turpentine.    The  product  of  the  cotton-mills  increased  from  $713,000 in  1860  to  $io,ooo,( 
This  is  the  chief  cotton-manufacturing  State  of  the  South,  and  uses  132,000  bales  yearly. 


STATISTICS. 

Settled  at Sioux  Falls. 

Settled  in 1857 

Founded  by lowans. 

Admitted  to  the  U.  S.,   .    .          1889 
Population  in  1880, 

In  1890, 

Assessed  Property,     .      $132,000,000 
77,650 


98,268 


493 
79 
671 
2,486 
256 


HISTORY. 

The  Dakotas  came  un- 
der the  American  flag  by 
the  Louisiana  Purchase,  in 
1803.  The  part  of  South 
Dakota  east  of  the  Mis- 
souri belonged  successively 
to  the  territories  of  Louisi- 
ana, Missouri,  Michigan, 
Wisconsin,  Iowa,  Minne- 
sota, and  Dakota.  The 

section  west  of  the  river  was  separated  from  Missouri  in 
1834,  and  became  part  of  the  Indian  Country  until  1854, 
when  it  was  annexed  to  Nebraska.  The  Territory  of  Da- 
kota came  into  existence  in  1861.  The  great  Indian  do- 
main of  Dakota  received  here  and  there  wandering 
French-Canadian  trappers  or  traders,  who  married  Sioux 
maidens,  and  dwelt  among  the  wigwams.  After  Lewis 
and  Clarke's  exploring  expedition  ascended  the  Missouri, 
in  1804-6,  the  American,  Missouri,  Northwestern,  Rocky- 
Mountain,  and  Columbia  Fur  Companies  pushed  their 
pioneer  posts  up  the  river.  In  1830-32  the  steamboats 
Yellowstone  and  Assinniboine  ascended  the  stream,  the  pio- 
neers of  a  vast  company.  In  1851  the  Indians  signed  the 
treaty  of  Traverse  des  Sioux,  ceding  to  the  United  States 
the  territory  between  the  Minnesota  line  and  the  Big 
Sioux  River.  This  grant  was  followed  by  subsequent  ces- 
sions and  attendant  military  demonstrations,  as  when  Gen. 
Harney  marched  an  army  of  1,200  men  from  the  Platte  to 
Fort  Pierre,  in  1855. 

The  first  settlement  was  established  in  1857,  at  Sioux 
Falls,  by  the  Western  Town  Lot  Company,  of  Dubuque, 
Iowa.  The  people  were  driven  out  several  times  by  the 
Indians,  but  returned  as  often,  with  dauntless  American 
pertinacity.  Unceasing  troubles  with  the  natives  cul- 
minated in  1862  in  the  Sioux  war,  when  the  frontiers  were  ravaged  for  hundreds  of  miles, 
and  all  the  Dakota  settlers  fled  to  Yankton.  After  the  savages  were  thoroughly  subjugated 
by  Gen.  Sibley's  Minnesotians,  in  their  brilliant  campaign  in  eastern  Dakota,  and  United- 


Area  (square  miles),  .  .  . 
U.  S.  Representatives  (1893) 
Militia  (Disciplined),  .  ; 

Counties, 

Post-offices, 

Railroads  (miles),    .... 

Newspapers, 

Latitude, 43°  to  46°  N. 

Longitude,  .  .  96020'  to  104°  W. 
Temperature,  .  .  .  —39°  to  111° 
Mean  Temperature  (Huron),  43° 

TEN  CHIEF  PLACES  AND  THEIR  POP- 
ULATIONS.    (Census  of  1800.) 


Sioux  Falls, 
Yankton, 
Pierre,  .  . 
Aberdeen,  . 
Huron,  .  . 
Water  town, 
Lead  City,  . 
Deadwood,  . 
Mitchell,  . 
Rapid  City, 


10,177 
3,670 
3,235 
3,182 
3,038 
2,672 
2,581 
2,366 
2,217 
2,128 


790 


XING'1  S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 


THE  BLACK  HILLS,   NEAR    DEADWOOD. 


States  garrisons  studded  the  country,  a  great  flood 
of  immigration  poured  into  the  Territory,  whose 
amazing  crops  of  grain  speedily  astonished  the 
western  world.  Yankton  was  the  Territorial  capi- 
tal from  1862  until  1883,  wnen  tne  seat  of  govern- 
ment passed  to  Bismarck. 

The  Name  Dakota  means  "Allied."     The  pet 
names  for  South  Dakota  are  THE  ARTESIAN  STATE, 
from  its  unrivalled  artesian  wells ;  and  THE  COYOTE 
STATE,  from  an  animal  once  abundant  on  its  prairies. 
The  Governor  (see  also   page   656)  has   been 
Arthur  C.  Mellette,  1889-93. 
The  Seal  of  South  Dakota  bears  a  river  with  a  steamboat,  and  on  the  right  a  farmer  at 
the  plow,  with  a  herd  of  cattle,  and  a  field  of  corn.     On  the  left  stands  a  smelting  furnace,, 
and  a  range  of  hills.     The  motto  is  :    UNDER  GOD  THE  PEOPLE  RULE. 

Descriptive. —  South  Dakota  is  separated  from  Minnesota  and  Iowa  by  the  Big  Stone  and 
Traverse  Lakes  and  the  Big  Sioux  River ;  from  Nebraska  by  the  43d  parallel ;  from  Wyo- 
ming and  Montana  by  the  !O4th  meridian  ;  and  from  North  Dakota  by  the  seventh  standard 
parallel.  It  is  225  by  360  miles  in  area,  and  larger  than  all  New  England.  The  southern 
boundary  is  on  the  parallel  of  Detroit,  Boston,  and  Rome.  The  greater  part  of  the  State  is 
a  high  undulating  plain,  cut  by  many  rivers  and  streams,  with  the  Black  Hills  in  the  south- 
west and  many  bright  lakes  in  the  east.  The  whole  country  was  once  covered  by  the  conti- 
nental glacier,  succeeded  by  a  great  lake,  both  of  which  deposited  here  the  ground-down  drift 
and  alluvial  remnants  of  the  mountains.  The  lake  finally  drained  away  through  the  Mis- 
souri, and  left  this  imperial  domain  for  the  Indians  and  the  buffalos.  The  alluvial  soil  is 
covered  many  inches  deep  with  vegetable  mould,  from  centuries  of  prairie-fires,  and  contains 
abundant  saline  matter,  and  the  proper  proportions  of  clay  and  sand  for  draining  and  pulver- 
izing. These  open  and  treeless  lands,  arable  and  fertile,  and  capable,  by  deep  ploughing,  of 
perpetual  rejuvenation,  lie  waiting  for  the  farmer.  The  subsoil  is  a  strong  and  tenacious  clay. 
Above  this  the  country  is  overlaid  with  dark  alluvial  loam,  which  the  analyses  of  the  Depart- 
ment of  Agriculture  find  to  be  rich  in  nitrogen  and  soluble  silica  and  potash  and  organic  mat- 
ter, making  an  ideal  soil  for  raising  cereals.  The  Missouri  Valley  has  rich  bottom-lands, 
abounding  in  corn,  small  grain  and  live-stock,  and  now  occupied  by  great  numbers  of  farms 
and  villages.  The  Big  Sioux  Valley  presents  much  beauty  of  landscape,  and  raises  corn  and 
cattle  and  horses.  The  valley  of  the  James  River  contains  much  rich  and  arable  soil,  made  up 
of  a  dark  vegetable  loam,  underlaid  by  marly  clay,  rich  in  phosphate  of  lime.  The  James  is 
500  miles  long,  bounded  on  either  side  by  prairies  extending  to  the  remote  horizon,  well- 
watered,  and  containing  many  large  and  profitable  wheat-farms.  The  valley  abounds  in  po\ 
erful  artesian  wells,  reaching  an  immense  subterranean  stream  from  800  to  1, 600  feet  dowi 
and  affording  water  enough  to  run  heavy  machinery  and  supply  the  village-reservoirs.  This : 
a  part  of  the  mysterious  Dakota  artesian  basin,  500  miles  wide,  extending  from  Nebn 
to  Manitoba,  and  pronounced  by  Nettleton  to  be  the  greatest  basin  of  the  kind  in  the  work 

Central  Dakota  covers  the  divide  and  prairies 
tween  the  James  and  Missouri  Rivers,  with  a  rich 
populous  farming  country.  The  Sioux  Reservation  li< 
west  of  the  Missouri,  and  11,000,000  acres  of  it  wer 
bought  by  the  Government  from  the  Indians,  and  thro\ 
open  to  settlement  in  1890.  The  price  paid 
$10,500,000.  The  country  is  a  vast  rolling  prairie 
covered  with  rough  sod  and  sage-brush,  and  cut  by  si 
streams.  A  third  of  it  lies  within  the  Bad  Lane 
TERRAVILLE  :  GOLD  MINES  AND  QUARTZ  MILLS.  Farther  westward  the  Black  Hills,  rich  in  minerals 


THE  STATE   OF  SOUTH  DAKOTA. 

containing   many   fertile   valleys,    rise   like 
sombre  islands  from  the  great  plains. 

Agriculture  finds  a  home  on  50,000 
farms,  valued  at  $70,000,000,  and  producing 
millions  of  dollars  yearly.  Corn  has  been 
raised  to  the  amount  of  22,000,000  bushels 
yearly,  at  from  25  to  100  bushels  to  the  acre. 
It  is  of  excellent  quality,  abounding  in  nitro- 
gen and  albuminoids,  and  far  above  the  aver-  sioux  FALLS  :  GRANITE  QUARRIES. 
age  grade  of  American  corn.  The  wheat  crop  exceeds  17,000,000  bushels  yearly;  the  oat 
crop,  12,000,000  bushels;  the  barley  crop,  1,700,000  bushels;  and  the  potato  and  flax 
crops,  above  2,500,000  bushels  each.  The  wild  prairie-grasses  yield  1,500,000  tons  of  hay 
yearly,  and  the  tame  grasses  120,000  tons.  The  cultivation  of  flax  is  an  important  local 
industry,  and  supports  also  large  tow-mills  and  linseed-oil  mills.  It  is  raised  almost  entirely 
for  the  seed.  The  State  has  386,000  swine,  527,000  cattle,  200,000  horses,  and  158,000 
sheep,  including  much  fine  blooded  stock.  The  wool-clip  reaches  5,000,000  pounds  a  year. 
Outside  the  Black  Hills  there  are  extensive  cattle-ranges,  formerly  much  used  for  stock 
from  Colorado. 

Climate. — The  Dakotas,  with  a  mean  yearly  temperature  of  41^°,  are  warmer  than 
Minnesota  (38°)  or  New  Hampshire  (26^°),  and  have  less  snow  (47. 8  inches)  than  New 
York  (55.7  inches)  or  New  Hampshire  (86  inches).  They  have  300  days 
in  the  year  that  are  fair  or  clear.  No  other  Northern  State  has  fewer 
cloudy  days.  The  singular  dryness  of  the  air  makes  a  very  low  tempera- 
ture in  winter  endurable,  and  gives  a  charm  to  the  long  autumnal  sea- 
sons. The  Chinook  winds  from  the  Pacific  warm  current  have  an  appre- 
ciable influence  in  modifying  the  temperature.  The  terrific  northerly 
gales  of  winter,  laden  with  fine  floating  snow,  are  the  most  unfortunate 
the  climatic  of  variations,  and  suffer  merited  reprobation  under  the  name 
of  "blizzards;"  but  fortunately  they  seldom  occur. 

Minerals. — The  Black  Hills  form  a  great  ellipse,  pointing  north- 
west, with  a  granite  central  core,  surrounded  by  gracefully  curved  and 
grassy  sedimentary  ridges,  and  sheltering  many  flowery  and  verdant  valleys.  They  cover 
about  3, 500  square  miles,  between  the  North  and  South  Cheyenne  Rivers,  and  culminate 
in  Harney's  Peak,  9, 700  feet  above  the  sea.  The  name  of  the  range  rises  from  the  sombre 
appearance  of  the  immense  spruce  and  Norway-pine  forests,  as  seen  from  the  far-surround- 
ing plains.  The  gold-mines  in  the  Black  Hills  were  discovered  in  1874,  when  Gen.  Ciis- 
ter's  expedition  reconnoitred  that  unexplored  region.  A  wild  rush  of  prospectors  and  miners 
entered  the  country,  in  spite  of  the  United-States  troops,  who  endeavored  to  expel  them 
from  this  part  of  the  great  Sioux  Reservation.  The  Sioux  also  resisted  this  invasion,  and 
killed  hundreds  of  the  gold-hunters,  until  the  hills  were  thrown  open  to  settlement,  in  1877. 
These  mines  have  yielded  $50,000,000  worth  of  gold  and  silver.  After  the  placers  gave 
out,  the  prospectors  traced  out  the  broad  fissure  veins  in  the  hills,  filled  with  low-grade 
native  gold,  in  quartz,  easily  reduced  by  stamp-mills. 
The  H<*mestake  Combination  covers  an  irregular  belt 
of  four  miles  long  and  1, 600  feet  wide  (near  Lead  City), 
forming  the  largest  and  most  easily-worked  mass  of 
low-grade  gold  ore  in  the  world.  They  employ  4,000 
men,  and  have  many  miles  of  ditches,  and  a  railway 
27  miles  long.  Several  other  companies  find  profitable 
employment  in  this  great  treasure-house,  "the  Gol- 
conda  of  Dakota."  Galena  and  Carbonate  produce 
large  quantities  of  silver  and  lead,  and  have  smelters  sioux  FALLS,  BIG  sioux  RIVER. 


JAMES-RIVER  VALLEY 
ARTESIAN    WELL. 


792 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


SIOUX    FALLS. 


and  reduction-works  to  treat  this  refractory  ore.     Tin  appears  in  the  Black  Hills  in  quantity 
sufficient  to  create  several  new  Corn  walls,  and  over  $1,000,000  has  been  sunk  in  attempts 
at  its  paying  development,  chiefly  by  the  Harney's-Peak  Company.     The  ore  is  a  black 
-  v  - ,  cassiterite,  embedded    in    mica-schist ; 

and  the  deposits  cover  an  area  of  500 
—.  square  miles,  in  a  great  semi- 
circle of  40  miles,  around  and 
northwest  of  Harney's  Peak. 
Both  lode-tin  and  stream-tin 
are  found  in  enormous  quanti- 
ties, easily  manipulated  and 
milling  freely.  The  product  of  Dakota  tin  has  not  yet  amounted  to  much,  but  high  hopes 
are  entertained  of  future  developments.  The  Black  Hills  contain  saline  springs,  whose  waters 
are  evaporated  for  making  salt ;  vast  gypsum  beds,  used  for  plaster  of  Paris ;  mica,  of 
which  large  sheets  are  exported  ;  high-grade  copper-ores,  lying  on  the  surface ;  lignite  (or 
brown  coal),  in  large  seams  ;  petroleum  and  natural  gas  ;  and  many  other  valuable  minerals. 
Here  also  are  quarried  white,  red,  and  variegated  sandstones,  white  and  purple  limestones, 
granite  and  marble,  and  valuable  strata  of  whetstone  and  grindstone  grits. 

The  chief  health-resort  is  at  Hot  Springs,  in  the  Black  Hills,  4,000  feet  above  the  sea, 
where  a  large  hotel  and  bath-houses  accommodate  visitors.  The  waters  flow  at  a  tempera- 
ture of  96°,  and  are  charged  with  electricity  and  minerals.  For  centuries  this  locality  had 
been  a  favorite  with  the  Sioux  and  Cheyennes,  who  held  on  to  it 
until  1 88 1.  Big  Stone  Lake  and  Madison  are  also  well-known 
places  for  the  summer  pleasuring  of  the  Dakotans. 

At  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  State,  at  Sioux  Falls,  are  found 
inexhaustible  deposits  of  the  so-called  jasper,  in  red,  pink,  cherry, 
purple,  peachblow,  and  gray  tints.  It  is  a  variety  of  close- 
grained  granite,  or  quartzite,  hard  enough  to  turn  the  sharpest 
tools,  but  easily  cleaving  by  hammer-strokes,  and  forming  a  beautiful  and  indestructible 
building  and  paving  material.  It  is  quarried  and  polished  by  1,000  men,  in  works  equipped 
with  the  most  modern  and  ingenious  machinery,  and  spurs  from  the  railways.  A  single 
company  has  sent  away  10,000  car-loads  of  indestructible  jasper  paving-blocks  ;  and  great 
quantities  of  the  stone  are  used  in  building  and  for  monuments.  The  polishing- works  here 
finish  this  rich  material  into  table-tops  and  columns  of  a  glassy  smoothness,  which  are  sold 


SIOUX    FALLS 
SCHOOL    FOR    DEAF    MUTES. 


by  Tiffany  &  Co., 
Arizona  is  brough  t 


FALLS  : 

COURT   HOUSE. 


in  New  York.     The  exquisite  chalcedony  (or  petrified  wood)  of 
to  these  works  by  the  car-load,  and  polished  for  decoration. 

The  Government  consists  of  a  governor  and  seven  other 
executive  officers,  elected  for  two  years  ;  a  legislature  of  not 
exceeding  45  senators  and  135  representatives  ;  and  a  Supreme 
*  ^  Court  of  three  justices,  with  circuit  and  county  courts.  The 

temporary  capitol  is  at  Pierre,  on  the  Missouri. 
;vv  The  Penitentiary  is  an  imposing  jasper  structure  on  the 

high  bluff  north  of  Sioux  Falls,  built  at  a  cost  of  $500,000, 
and  famous  for  the  skilful  polishing  of  chalcedony,  porphyry 
and  other  rare  stones,  done  by  the  convicts.  The  Reform 
School  is  at  Plankinton.  The  School  for  Deaf  Mutes  oc- 
cupies several  buildings  on  the  heights  southeast  of  Sioux 
Falls,  and  gives  valuable  technical  instruction.  The  Hos- 
pital for  the  Insane  has  a  farm  of  640  acres,  on  high  ground, 
near  Yankton,  and  cost  $250,000.  The  Soldiers'  Home 
stands  among  the  healthful  and  beautiful  surroundings  of 
Hot  Springs,  in  the  Black  Hills. 


THE  STATE   OF  SOUTH  DAKOTA. 


793 


SIOUX    FALLS  :     PENITENTIARY. 


The  United-States  military  posts  are  Forts 
Bennett,  Sully  and  Randall,  on  the  Missouri, 
and  Fort  Meade  in  the  Black  Hills,  their  garri- 
sons aggregating  600  soldiers. 

The  Pine- Ridge,  Rosebud,  Yankton,  Chey- 
enne-River, Crow-Creek,  and  Sisseton  Reserva- 
tions contain  18,500  Sioux  Indians  and  500 
Northern  Cheyennes,  under  the  care  of  their 
chiefs,  United-States  agents,  native  police  and 
Catholic  and  Episcopal  clergy.  These  denizens 
of  the  plains  are  yielding  slowly  to  civilization.  An  Indian  industrial  school,  maintained 
by  the  General  Government,  has  been  established  at  the  capital  city,  Pierre,  in  which 
Indian  children  are  taught  the  useful  mechanical  arts.  The  Sisseton  Sioux  have  been 
allotted  lands  in  severalty,  and  in  1892  the  parts  of  their  reservation  not  thus  occupied 
were  thrown  open  for  settlement. 

Education  has  always  been  accorded  a  prominent  place  in  this  purely  American  com- 
monwealth, and  flourishes  under  an  efficient  system.  Illiteracy  includes  but  4. 2  per  cent, 
of  the  people,  the  general  ratio  among  white  Americans  being  11.9.  The  normal  schools 
occupy  handsome  buildings,  one  at  Madison,  in  the  pleasant  eastern  lake-country,  and 
another  at  Spearfish,  among  the  Black  Hills.  The  University  of  South  Dakota  was  opened 
in  1882,  and  has  handsome  jasper  buildings  at  Vermillion,  and  475  students,  mainly  sons  and 
daughters  of  farmers.  Of  these  6 1' are  in  the  collegiate  department,  the  remain- 

der being  in  the  ^  lower  schools.  Tuition  is  free  for  Dakota  pupils.  The  Agricul- 
tural College  at  Brookings  has  four  good  buildings, 
16  instructors,  and  140  students  of  both  sexes,  many 
of  whom  support  themselves  by  working  on  the  col- 
lege farm  and  in  its  industrial  shops.  The  School 
of  Mines  has  well-equipped  laboratories  at  Rapid 
City,  convenient  to  the  gold  and  silver,  iron  and 
copper,  tin  and  nickel,  coal  and  oil,  lead  and  anti- 
mony deposits  of  the  Black  Hills.  Yankton  College  was  opened  by  the  Congregational 
churches,  in  1882,  and  has  a  fine  building  of  red  jasper,  trimmed  with  Iowa  white  stone. 
Another  Congregational  college  has  recently  been  opened' at  RedfieJd.  Dakota  University 
was  founded  by  the  Methodists,  and  occupies  a  high  and  far-viewing  estate  of  320  acres, 
near  Mitchell.  The  main  building  is  of  jasper,  in  Venetian  architecture.  Sioux-Falls 
University,  founded  by  the  Baptists  in  1883,  has  ten  instructors  and  120  students,  and  a 
large  building  of  jasper,  on  a  hill  overlooking  the  city.  Pierre  University  belongs  to  the 
Presbyterian  synod  and  overlooks  wide  vistas  of  the  Missouri  Valley.  It  opened  in  1883. 
The  Presbyterians  have  another  college  at  Groton.  All-Saints'  School  (for  girls)  is  at 
Sioux  Falls,  the  see  city  of  South  Dakota,  and  has  a  handsome  building  and  chapel  of 

jasper,  trimmed  with  pipe-stone.     The  Catho-     ^         , s 

lies  have  seminaries  at  Aberdeen,  Deadwood, 
Sioux  Falls,  and  other  cities. 

Upwards  of  $2,000,000  have  been  spent  in 
building  churches  ;  and  the  State  has  1,000 
Sunday-schools. 

Chief  Cities. —  Sioux  Falls  was  laid  out 
in  1857,  and  destroyed  by  the  Sioux  in  1862. 
In  1865  Fort  Dakota  arose  here,  on  a  military 
reservation  six  miles  square ;  and  when  this 
was  evacuated,  in  1870,  a  new  village  sprang 
up,  rising  to  593  inhabitants  in  1873.  It  is  WATERTOWN  :  HIGH  SCHOOL. 


UNIVERSITY    OF    SOUTH    DAKOTA. 


794 


BROOKINGS  :    AGRICULTURAL   COLLEGE. 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 

now  the  metropolis  and  gate-city  of  South  Dakota,  with  large 
factories  and  quarries,  a  score  of  churches,  and  several  colleges. 
The  Big  Sioux  River  falls  here  90  feet  within 
half  a  mile,  sparkling  clear,  and  dominated  by  a 
beautiful  island.  The  predominant  color  of 
the  city  is  red,  from  the  red  granite  generally 
used  in  its  buildings.  Pierre,  the  capital,  stands 
at  the  geographical  centre  of  the  State,  near  the 
site  of  old  Fort  Pierre,  which  was  founded  in  1829,  and  named  for  Pierre  Chouteau  of  St. 
Louis,  one  of  the  early  fur-traders. 

Dead  wood  received  its  name  from  the  miners,  in  1875,  because  of  the  dead  timber  on  the 
adjacent  hills.  The  city  was  laid  out  in  1876,  burned  up  in  1879,  and  washed  away  in 
1883,  but  is  still  the  distributing  point  and  mining  centre  of 
the  Black  Hills,  with  a  very  large  business.  Deadwood  is  united 
to  the  East  by  three  trunk  railways,  and  has  several  narrow- 
gauge  lines  running  to  the  mining-camps  of  the  Black  Hills. 
The  city  is  Y-shaped,  Whitewood  Gulch  forming  the  trunk  and 
one  prong,  and  Deadwood  Gulch  forming  the  other  prong  of 
the  Y.  The  close-built  business  streets  follow  these  ravines, 
and  above,  on  the  hill-sides,  are  the  residences,  commanding 
extensive  views,  as  far  as  the  snow-crowned  Terry's  Peak. 
Rapid  City  controls  the  trade  of  many  camps  and  towns  in  the 

Black  Hills,  and  is  surrounded  with  coal  and  iron,  tin  and  precious  metals,  sandstone  and 
granite,  marble  and  lime,  and  the  grazing-grounds  of  20,000  horses.  It  has  been  happily 
entitled  "The  Denver  of  South  Dakota."  Yankton,  the  old-time  capital  of  all  Dakota, 
stands  on  a  line  of  chalk  bluffs  along  the  Missouri,  not  far  from  the  inflowing  of  the  James 
River.  Aberdeen,  on  the  James  River,  has  risen  since  1880,  and  possesses  railways  radiating 
in  seven  directions,  and  giving  it  a  large  jobbing  trade.  Watertown,  on  the  Big  Sioux,  and 
near  the  pretty  Lake  Kampeska,  is  the  distributing  point  for  several  counties,  with  wealthy 
banks  and  many  public  buildings  and  factories.  Huron,  on  the  James,  is  another  lively 
little  city,  which  came  near  being  the  capital  of  the  State. 

Railroads  enter  South   Dakota  from   the   eastward  at  a 
dozen  points,  and  cover  the  eastern  counties  with  their  lines. 
They  reach  the  Missouri  River  at  half  a  dozen  points,  but  none  of 
them  crosses  it,  because  up  to  recently  the  land  beyond  belonged 
to  the  Sioux  Indians,  and  could  not  be  occupied.     The  Chicago 
&  Northwestern,  the  Milwaukee,  the  Great  Northern  and  other 
railway  companies  are  represented  here.     The  Black  Hills  are 
reached  from  extreme  northwestern  Nebraska  by  lines  branching  northward  from  the  Fre- 
mont,  Elkhorn   &  Missouri  Valley   and  the  Burlington  &   Missouri-River  systems,  both 
traversing  almost  the  entire  length  of  the  Hills,  and  curving  together  at  Deadwood.      One 
or  two  of  the  railways  will  soon  be  extended  westward  from  the  Missouri  River,  straight 
away  towards  the  Pacific  Ocean.      The  James  River  (locally  known  as  the  Jim)  is  the 
longest  unnavigable  river  in  the  United  States.     It  extends  from  its  source  near  Devil's 
Lake  across  part  of  North  Dakota  and  all  of  South  Dakota,  bordered 
by  an  almost  illimitable  prairie,  reaching  to  the  horizon,  and  already 
fairly  populated  with  industrious  communities  of  farmers. 
"Sea-like  in  billowy  distance,  far  away 
The  half-broke  prairies  stretch  on  every  hand ; 
How  wide  the  circuit  of  their  summer  day 

What  measureless  acres  of  primeval  land,  MADISON  • 

Treeless  and  birdless,  by  no  eyesight  spanned."  STATE  NORMAL  SCHOOL, 


HOT    SPRINGS  :    SOLDIERS'    HOME. 


.  i,io9,8oi 
.  1,258,520 

•  1,542,359 
.  1,138,831 
.     403,528 

•  ii  125, °57 

16,702 

•  769,277 
.      773,o82 

•  1,767,518 
.  1,332,971 
-.,  434,300 
ule,     36.9 
.     330,305 


..        58, 
$14,938, 


, 

96 
2,405 


Probably  the  first  white 

people  to  look  upon  Ten- 

nessean  soil  were  the  Span- 
ish cavaliers  of  De  Soto's 

army,    in    1541,    reaching 

the  Mississippi  at  the  site 

of  Memphis.   La  Salle  built 

Fort  Prud'homme,  140 

years  later,  on  the  Fourth 

Chickasaw  Bluff;  and  in  1714  the  French  erected  Fort 
Assomption,  on  the  same  site;  and  later  the  Spanish 
stronghold  of  Fort  San  Ferdinando  de  Barrancas  received 
a  garrison  of  Dons  here. 

France  claimed  the  territory  of  Tennessee,  as  a  part  of 
Louisiana  ;  Spain  claimed  it  as  a  part  of  Florida ;  and 
North  Carolina  extended  over  its  entire  area,  according 
to  the  charter  of  Charles  II.  Equally  indifferent  to  all 
these  diplomacies,  the  Cherokees  held  the  east  and  the, 
Chickasaws  the  west,  unconscious  of  their  would-be  Euro- 
pean lords.  In  1748  a  party  of  Virginians  discovered  the 
Cumberland  Mountains,  Gap  and  River,  which  they  named 
after  the  Duke  of  Cumberland,  the  merciless  victor  of  Cul- 
loden.  The  North-Carolinians  entered  Tennessee  as  early 
as  1754,  but  they  were  hurled  back  across  the  mountains 
by  hostile  Indians.  Two  years  later  Fort  Loudon  was 
founded,  on  the  Little  Tennessee,  with  a  red-coat  garrison 
and  twelve  cannon,  which  in  1760  capitulated  to  a  besieg- 
ing force  of  Indians,  the  people  being  butchered  or  reduced 
to  captivity.  In  1 761  a  little  army  of  Virginians  and  North- 
Carolinians,  under  Col.  Grant,  crossed  the  Alleghanies,  and 
defeated  the  savages  in  several  bloody  battles,  after  which 
they  sued  for  peace.  About  the  year  1770  the  strong  tides 
of  migration  from  Virginia  and  North  Carolina  began  to 
flow  into  Tennessee,  some  through  Cumberland  Gap  and 
along  the  river,  and  others  down  the  Tennessee  Valley  and  around  the  Cumberland  Plateau. 
Traversing  the  mountain-passes  on  foot,  with  their  household  effects  packed  on  horses,  they 
occupied  the  great  wilderness,  abounding  in  timber  and  game.  Settling  along  the  Holston, 


Settled  at 
Settled  in 

"  >y    • 

Became  a  State,      .     .    . 
Population  in  1860,      .     . 

In  1870, 

In  1880, 

White, 

Colored, 

American-born,  .  . 
Foreign-born,  .  .  . 
Males*  ..... 
Females,  .... 
In  1890  (U.  S.  Census), 

White, 

Colored, 

Population  to  the  square  r 
Voting  Population,      .     . 
Vote  for  Harrison  (1888) 
Vote  for  Cleveland  (I 


Fort  Loudon. 
765 


. 

.  .  15,216 
$37,074,886 

.    .      22,445 

.  $5,254,775 
.  20,666,915 
$206,7, 


Net  State  Debt, 
Assessed  Valuation  of 

Property  (1890),  .  $348,000,000 
Area  (square  miles),  .  .  .  42,050 
U.  S.  Representatives  (1893),  10 

Militia  (Disciplined), 

Counties, 

Post-offices,  .  .  . 
Railroads  (miles),  .  . 
Vessels 

Tonnage 

Manufactures  (yearly), 

Operatives,      .    .     . 

Yearly  Wages,  .  . 
Farm  Land  (in  acres), 
Farm-Land  Values,  .  „ 

Farm  Products  (yearly)  $62,076,311 
Public  Schools,  Average 

Daily  Attendance,  .    .    .     308,069 

Newspapers,       262 

Latitude.  ....  35°  to  36°35'  N. 
Longitude,  .  .  8i°37'  logons'  W. 
Temperature,  .  .  .  — 16°  to  104° 
Mean  Temperature  (Nashville),  58° 

TEN   CHIEF  CITIES  AND   THEIR   POP- 
ULATIONS.    (Census  of  1890.) 

Nashville, 7_6>l68 

Memphis,     .  . 

Chattanooga,  . 

Knoxville,     .  . 

Jackson,  .     .  . 

Clarksville,  . 

Columbia,     .  . 


Johnson, 
'Murfreesboro, 
Union  City,  . 


64,495 
29,100 
22,535 
10,039 
7,924 
5,370 
4,161 
3,730 
3,441 


796 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


SEWANEE  :    VIEW    FROM    THE    UNIVERSITY. 


Watauga  and  Nolechucky,  they  inaugurated  Virginian 
laws  in  the  deep  wilderness,  and  suffered  many  troubles 
with  the  Royal  Government  and  the  Indians.     John   j 
Sevier  organized  the  Watauga  people  and  led  them  in  J 
the  battle  of  King's  Mountain,  against  the  Tories  and  i 
British ;  and  afterwards  was  outlawed  as  Governor  of  fl 
Franklin.     In  1779-80  a  fleet  of  open  boats  made  an  J 
astonishing  voyage  of  2,ooo  miles,  from  Fort  Patrick  .! 
Henry,  on  the  Holston,   down  the  Tennessee  and  the  I 
Ohio  and  up  the  Cumberland,  to  French  Lick,  where  they  founded  Nashville.     The  com- 
mander of  the  fleet  was  John  Donelson,  whose  daughter  Rachel  married  Andrew  Jackson. 
The  history  of  the  region  for  the  next  60  years  deals  with  the  expulsion  of  the  Chero- 
kees  and  Chickasaws,  the  slow  advance  of  internal  improvements,  the  vigorous  politics  of 
the  Polk  and  Harrison  and  other  campaigns,  and  the  settlement  of  the  West.     The  bread 
of  the  pioneers  was  either  johnny  (journey)  cake  or  ash-cake  ;  the  butter,  bear's  fat  or 
goose-fat ;  the  coffee,  a  decoction  of  parched  rye  or  dried  beans.     The  people  wore  home- 
spun and  buckskin,  the  women  with  huge  calico  bonnets,  the  men  with  raccoon-skin  caps, 
and  both  with  buckskin  moccasins.     Their  homes  were  log-huts  ;  their  churches,  barns  j 
their  laundries,  the  woodland  springs  ;  and  their  forts,  palisades  running  around  the  cabins. 
In  1784  North  Carolina  ceded  Tennessee  to  the  United  States,  and  a  year  later  repealed 
the  Act  of  Cession.     The  transmontane  coun- 
ties then  seceded,   and  later  formed  the   State 
of  Franklin;  but  Congress  ignored  its  delegates. 
In  1787  the  young  State  returned  to  its  allegiance 
to  North  Carolina.     In  1 790  it  was  ceded  to  the 
Government,  and  became  part  of  the  Territory  of 
the  United  States  South  of  the  Ohio  River. 

In  1 86 1,  the  Tennesseans  refused  to  summon 
a   convention    to    consider    seceding    from  the 
Union ;   but  three  months  later  they  voted,  by 
57,675  majority,  to  leave  the  Republic.     Within  less  than  a  year  a  great  part  of  the  State  was-j 
restored  to  the  Federal  authority,  and  Andrew  Johnson  became  military  governor.     Grant  »j 
and  Foote  took  Fort  Henry  (on  the  Tennessee)  and  Fort  Donelson  (on  the  Cumberland),  j 
with  15,000  prisoners,  after  a  short  but  severe  campaign,  and  occupied  Nashville.     Thence 
Grant  advanced  vdth  40,000  men  to  Shiloh,  on  the  Tennessee,  where  he  was  surprised  and, 
beaten  by  Johnston's  Confederate  army ;  but  on  the  arrival  of  Buell,  with  the  Army  of  the 
Ohio,  a  day  later,  he  re-won  the  bloody  field,  the  losses  on  both  sides  reaching  23,000  men.' 
By  June  the  entire  Mississippi-River  coast  was  free,  the  Federal  fleet  having  utterly  de- 
stroyed the  Confederate  gunboats  off"  Memphis,  and  occupied  the  city  with  a  permanent 
garrison.     January  4,  1863,  Bragg's  army  was  driven  from  Murfreesboro  by  Rosecrans's 
Nationals,  after  a  four  days'  battle,  in  which  22,000  men  were  lost  on  both  sides.     Rose- 

crans  pushed  the  enemy  out  of  Shelbyville  and  Chat- 1 
tanooga,   but  at  Chickamauga  Bragg  turned  at  bay,|: 
and  terribly  defeated  the  Federals  (35,000  men  being  [ 
killed  or  wounded  on  both  sides),  whom  he  besieged  in  , 
Chattanooga.      In  October,  Grant,  Sherman,  Thomas, 
Hooker  and  Sheridan  broke  out  of  their  beleaguer- ' 
ment,  and  in  the  magnificent  battles  of  Chattanooga, 
Lookout  Mountain  and  Missionary  Ridge    drove  the; 
Confederates  into  Georgia.      When  Sherman's   great 
army  moved  from   Atlanta  toward   the    sea,    Hood's  j 
Confederate    army    dashed    into    Tennessee,    driving 


THE    TENNESSEE    RIVER. 


ROCK   CITY. 


THE  STATE   OF   TENNESSEE. 


797 


THE  HERMITAGE  :    ANDREW    JACKSON'S  RESIDENCE. 


Schofield  before  it,  but  losing  6,000  men  in  front 

of  his  lines  at  Franklin.     With  40,000  men  Hood 

kept  on  to  Nashville,  where  he  encountered  Thomas's 

Federal  army,  and  suffered  a  complete  overthrow, 

losing  53   guns  and  4,500  prisoners,   besides  many 

thousand  killed  and  wounded.     In  the  summer  of 

1863  Burnside  led  the  Army  of  the  Ohio  down  the 

East-Tennessee    Valley,    and    occupied    Knoxville, 

which  he  defended  against  the  heroic  assaults  of 

Longstreet's  Southern  infantry.     The  people  of  this 

mountain-land  had  remained  true  to  the  Union,  and  contributed  30,000  soldiers  to  the 

Federal  army.     Upwards  of  30  counties  of  East  Tennessee  refused  to  join  in  the  Secession 

movement. 

The  Name  Tennessee  is  a  Cherokee  word,  meaning  "A  Curved  Spotm,"  or  "A  Bend 
in  the  River."  It  was  derived  from  Tanasse,  the  chief  village  of  the  Cherokee  tribe,  which 
stood  on  the  shore  of  the  river.  The  name  was  applied  upon  motion  of  Andrew  Jackson, 
although  it  had  previously  been  given  to  the  country  by  popular  usage.  The  pet 
name  of  Tennessee  is  THE  VOLUNTEER  STATE,  on  account  of  the  military  spirit  of  the 
people.  The  corn  and  pork  product  of  Tennessee  reached  such  great  proportions  between 
1800  and  1840,  that  the  land  received  the  designation  (now  obsolete)  of 
THE  HOG  AND  HOMINY  STATE.  Tennessee  has  been  called  THE 
MOTHER  OF  SOUTHWESTERN  STATESMEN,  having  given  the  Republic 
three  Presidents,  Jackson,  Polk  and  Johnson,  besides  Thomas  H.  Ben- 
ton,  Hugh  L.  White,  John  Bell,  Felix  Grundy,  David  Crockett,  Admiral 
Farragut,  Houston  of  Texas,  Gwin  of  California,  Watterson  of  Ken- 
tucky, Sevier  and  Garland  of  Arkansas,  Claiborne  of  Louisiana,  Reagan 
of  Texas  and  Morgan  of  Alabama. 

The  Arms  of  Tennessee  were  adopted  in  1796,  and  bear  a  plow,  a 
sheaf  of  wheat,  and  a  stalk  of  cotton,  with  the  word  AGRICULTURE  be- 
neath. Below  this  is  a  laden  river-barge,  with  the  word  COMMERCE. 
The  Governors  of  Tennessee  have  been  :  John  Sevier,  1796-1801  and  1803-9;  Archi- 
bald Roane,  1801-3;  Wm.  Blount,  1809-15;  Jos.  McMinn,  1815-21;  Wm.  Carroll, 
1821-7  and  1829-35 ;  Sam.  Houston,  1827-9;  Newton,  Cannon,  1835-9;  Jas.  K.  Polk, 
1839-41;  Jas.  C.  Jones,  1841-5;  Aaron  V.  Brown,  1845-7;  Neil  S.  Brown,  1847-9; 
Wm.  Trousdale,  1849-51;  Wm.  B.  Campbell,  1851-3;  Andrew  Johnson,  1853-7;  Isham 
G.  Harris,  1857-61;  Andrew  Johnson  (provisional)  1861-4;  Wm.  G.  Brownlow,  1865-9; 
DeWitt  C.  Senter,  1869-71 ;  John  C.  Brown,  1871-5;  Jas.  D.  Porter,  Jn,  1875-9 ;  Albert 
S.  Marks,  1879-81;  Alvin  Hawkins,  1881-3;  Wm. 
Robert  L.  Taylor,  1887-91  ;  and  John  P.  Buchanan, 
Description. —  The  civil  division  of  West  Ten- 
counties,  and  extends  from  the  Mississippi  to  the 
Tennessee.  Middle  Tennessee,  with  40  coun- 
ties, extends  thence  to  the  centre  of  the  Cum- 
berland Plateau;  and  East  Tennessee's  33 
counties  cover  the  remainder  of  the  State.  West 
Tennessee  rises  gently  from  the  Mississippi,  in 
long  and  level  lowlands,  traversed  by  sluggish  westward-flow- 
ing rivers.  The  alluvial  Mississippi  bottoms,  covering  a  thou- 
sand square  miles  with  their  magnificent  forests  and  lakes,  and 
cedar  and  cypress  morasses,  reach  eastward  to  the  long  steep 

bluffs  of  the  great  undulating  plateau  which  runs  east  85  miles         MEMPHIS  :  CUSTOM-HOUSE, 
to  the  Tennessee,  and  covers  9,000  square  miles.     Back  of  the  POST-OFFICE  AND  LEVEE. 


JACKSON'S    TOMB. 


B.  Bate,  1883-7; 

1891-3. 

nessee  includes  20 


ALUM    CAVE  :     GREAT    SMOKY    MOUNTAINS. 


798  KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED  STATES. 

rivers  are  leagues  of  rich  black  mould,  with  wonderful 
harvests  of  cotton,  tobacco  and  grain.  Farther  east, 
beyond  the  Tennessee  Valley  (which  is  ten  miles  wide), 
opens  the  great  elliptical  central  valley,  like  the 
bed  of  a  drained  lake,  surrounded  by  the  highland 
rim,  300  feet  high,  and  covering  5,450  square  miles 
with  fields  of  grain,  cotton  and  tobacco,  and  the  largest 
red-cedar  forests  in  America.  This  is  called  the 
Garden  of  Tennessee,  with  every  kind  of  charm- 
ing scenery,  an  unusual  variety  and  opulence  of  pro- 
ducts, and  vast  herds  of  valuable  domestic  animals, 
fattened  on  the  blue  grass.  Next  eastward  comes  the  great  Cumberland  Plateau,  a  thousand 
feet  above  the  Tennessee,  and  covering  5,000  square  miles,  rich  in  coal  and  limestone,  with 
an  abrupt  and  formidable  rocky  rampart  on  the  east,  and  a  broken  and  jagged  western 
slope,  cut  into  by  deep  coves.  One  of  the  chief  towns  is  Rugby,  founded  in  1880  by 
Thomas  Hughes,  the  author  of  Tom  Brown's  School  Days,  and  settled  partly  by  Eng- 
lishmen and  Northerners.  Beyond  the  forest-filled  East-Tennessee  Valley,  deep  channelled 
in  the  dolomite  and  sandstone,  comes  the  mountain-land  of  East  Tennessee,  from  seven  to 
twenty-eight  miles  wide.  On  one  side  the  Chilhowee  range  lifts  its  gray  peaks  over  5,000 
feet  into  the  sky,  and  on  the  other  side  tower  the  Great  Smoky  and  Bald  ranges.  The  East- 
Tennessee  Valley  covers  9, 200  square  miles,  between  the  Alleghanies  and  the  Cumberland 
Plateau ;  and  its  final  frontier  toward  Carolina  is 
formed  by  the  Great  Smoky  and  the  Unaka  Moun- 
tains, rising  beyond  6,000  feet,  and  bearing  on  their 
bare  brows  the  vegetation  of  Canada.  The  wild 
country  south  and  southeast  of  Knoxville  has  been 
made  famous  by  Miss  Murfree's  stories,  In  the  Ten- 
nessee Mountains.  There  Tuckaleechee  Cove  and 
Cade's  Cove  lead  inward  to  the  Great  Smoky  peaks, 
culminating  at  the  Siler  Bald  (5,600  feet  high),  Cling- 
man's  Dome  (6,660  feet),  and  Old  Smoky  (Mt. 
Guyot)  6,636  feet.  The  mountains  are  covered  with 
valuable  forests  of  pine  and  hemlock,  chestnut  and  black  walnut,  growing  to  immense  size, 
and  producing  large  exportations  of  naval  stores  and  lumber. 

The  caverns  of  the  Cumberland  Mountains  are  many  miles  in  extent,  and  contain  power- 
ful subterranean  streams,  bones  of  extinct  animals,  and  deposits  of  nitre,  much  of  -which 
was  removed  during  the  War  of  1812.  Elsewhere  in  Tennessee  are  the  mysterious  sink- 
holes, hopper- shaped  cavities  on  the  surface,  through  which  the  waters  drain  down  into 
subterranean  streams. 

The   Tennessee   River  is  formed  four  miles  above  Knoxville,   by  the  confluence  of  the 
French  Broad,  from  the  mountain-land  of  North  Carolina,  anc 
the  Holston  from  Virginia.       It  is  650  miles  long,  traversing  tl 
valley  of  East  Tennessee  to  Chattanooga,  194   miles,  and  th< 
cutting   through  Walden's    Ridge   and   skirting  the  SequatchU 
Valley,  and  sweeping  around  through  Alabama,  whence  it  tui 
northward  and  again  crosses  Tennessee,  entering   the    Ohio 
Paducah.     It   drains   41,000    square   miles,    falling   2,000   feet, 
and  receiving  many  important  tributaries.     It  is  navigated 
steamboats  from  the  Ohio  far  into  Alabama,  260  miles,  and  fror 
above  the  Muscle  Shoals  to  Knoxville.      Several  steamboats 
on  the  river  between  Chattanooga,   Kingston  and  Loudon  (142 
MEMPHIS  ;  MADISON  STREET.       miles),    bearing   large   freights  j    and  hundreds    of  laden   flat- 


NASHVILLE  i 
HOME   AND   TOMB    OF   JAMES    K.    POLK. 


THE  STATE   OF    TENNESSEE. 


799 


boats  from  Virginia  and  North  Carolina  come  out  of  the  French  Broad,  Watauga,  Hiawas- 
see  and  other  streams,  bearing  produce  to  Knoxville  and  Loudon.  Steamboats  ascend  the 
Clinch  and  Emory  Rivers  to  Harriman,  one  of  the  new  iron-making  cities.  The  commerce 
of  the  Tennessee  exceeds  $5,000,000  a  year,  mainly  in  lumber  and 
grain,  ore  and  live-stock,  forage  and  merchandise,  and  other  valu- 
able products  of  the  mountain-land  and  the  valley  counties.  The 
Holston,  350  miles  long,  is  formed  1 80  miles  above  Knoxville  by 
the  union  of  the  North  and  South  Forks.  The  French  Broad  River 
has  121  miles  in  Tennessee,  with  a  navigable  channel  of  90  miles, 
up  to  Leadvale,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Nolechucky  River.  The  Little 
Tennessee  flows  down  from  the  Blue  Ridge  134  miles  to  the  Ten- 
nessee, with  13  miles  navigable.  The  Hiawassee,  of  equal  length,  CHATTANOOGA:  CUSTOM-HOUSE 
comes  from  the  Blue  Ridge  of  Georgia,  and  steamboats  ascend  its  AND  POST-OFFICE. 

course  to  Charleston,  20  miles.  The  Clinch  River  is  born  in  Virginia,  and  steamboats 
go  up  to  Clinton,  for  70  of  its  400  miles.  The  Cumberland  River  has  most  of  its 
navigable  waters  in  Tennessee,  although  its  source  and  mouth  are  in  Kentucky.  Steam- 
boats ascend  192  miles,  from  Smithland  on  the  Ohio  to  Nashville,  during  eight  months; 
and  for  a  briefer  time  they  can  ascend  to  Point  Burnside,  517  miles  from  the  Ohio. 
The  entire  length  of  the  river  is  740  miles,  and  there  are  several  navigable  tributaries. 
The  Mississippi  River  pours  its  great  navigable  floods  along  the  entire  western  frontier  of 
Tennessee  for  160  miles.  Its  chief  tributaries  are  the  Big  Hatchie,  form- 
erly navigable  240  miles,  as  far  as  Bolivar ;  the  Wolf,  emptying  at 
Memphis ;  and  the  Forked  Deer,  which  has  been  ascended  by 
steamboats  as  far  as  Jackson,  195  miles.  Reelfoot  Lake,  in 
the  northwest,  was  formed  during  the  great  earthquakes  of 
1811,  and  has  a  length  of  17  miles. 

The  Climate  is  generally  salubrious,  except  among  the 
swamps  of  the  west.     The  mountain  country  is  widely  fa- 
mous for  the  purity  of  its  air,  as  well  as  the  singular  beauty 
of  its   scenery.      The  mean  yearly  temperature  averages  59° 
in  the  west,  58°  in  Middle  Tennessee,  and  57°  on  the  mount- 
MEMPHIS  :  COTTON  EXCHANGE.         ains.     The    Cumberland   Plateau  has   for   many   years  been 
much   resorted  to   in  summer  on  account  of  its  delightful  climate  and  scenery,  cool  nights 
and  bracing  air.    Most  of  the  hotels  and  cottage-colonies  are  near  the  cliff-bound  edges  of  the 
table-land. 

The    Farm-Crops  include   yearly  80,000,000  bushels  of  corn,   9,ooo,oop^of  wheat, 
8, 000,000  of  oats,  and  2,500,000  of  potatoes,  with  320,000  tons 
of  hay.     Tennessee  has  produced  as  high  as  350,000  bales  of 
cotton  in  a  year,  most  of  which  conies  from  the  southwest,  and 
the  central   region  south  of  Nashville.     In  tobacco,  Tennessee 
stands  next  to  Kentucky  and  Virginia,  producing  from  25, < 
to  40,000,000  pounds  yearly.     The  counties  north 
of   the  Cumberland   cultivate   a  rich,   strong  and 
gummy  tobacco,  largely  exported  to  England  and 
Africa.     The  northwestern  counties  raise  a  silky, 
mild  and  light-colored  tobacco.      East  Tennessee's 
output  is   mild  and  without  much  nicotine.     Large 
quantities  of  stemmed  tobacco  are  exported  to  Italy 
and  Austria,  France  and  Spain,   to  be  made  up  in 
the  government  factories.      Peanuts  are  raised  in 
the   west,   and  as  many  as  650,000  bushels  have 
been  sent  out  in  a  single  year.    5,000,000  pounds 


CITY    HALL 

AND 
COURT-HOUSE. 


8oo 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


of  berries  are  raised  yearly,  with  7,000,000  pounds  of  apples,  peaches  and  plums;  and 
1,000,000  gallons  of  spirits  are  distilled.  Tennessee  has  above  3, 600,000  head  of  live-stock, 
of  which  1,900,000  are  hogs,  with  800,000  cattle  and  480,000  horses  and  mules.  In  1840 
this  was  the  foremost  State  in  corn  ;  in  1850,  in  growing  hogs  ;  and  in  1860,  in  mules. 

"Belle  Meade"  is  the  name  of  the  most  notable  stock-farm  for  thoroughbred  running 
horses  in  this  country.  It  is  a  baronial  estate,  five  miles  from  Nashville,  Tenn.,  founded 
nearly  100  years  ago  by  John  Harding.  He  was  succeeded  by  his  son,  Gen.  W.  G.  Hard- 
ing, and  he  by  his  son-in-law,  Gen.W.  H.  Jackson,  the  present  proprietor.  Gen.  Harding, 
who  was  a  great  friend  of  "Old  Hickory"  (Gen.  Andrew  Jackson),  imported  some  of 
the  finest-bred  stallions  from  Europe  to  improve  his  stock,  and  the  annual  sales  of  thor- 
oughbred yearlings  at  this  famous  nursery  are  important  events  in  turf  history.  From  1875 


NASHVILLE  I     "  BELLE    MEADE"  ;    GEN.    WM.    H.    JACKSON. 

to  1891  inclusive,  636  yearlings  have  been  sold  at  public  auc- 
tion, to  the  highest  responsible  bidders,  without  by-bidding,  for  $427, 980,  which  yearlings 
won  for  their  owners  no  less  than  $2,000,515  in  stakes  and  purses.  This  is  truly  a  grant 
showing,  and  unparalleled  by  any  public  breeding  establishment  in  the  world.  When  the 
representatives  of  the  French  Government,  Baron  Faverot  and  Capt.  De  la  Chere,  were  sent 
to  this  country  to  inspect  the  breeding  establishments  and  describe  every  variety  of  horse,  ii 
their  report  (of  600  pages),  they  stated  that  the  best  thoroughbred  horses  they  found  were 
Belle  Meade  ;  adding  :  "  We  saw  the  finest  crop  of  yearlings  there  that  we  had  ever  seen." 

The  estate  covers  5,300  acres,  half  of  it  heavy  timber  cleared  of  undergrowth  and  sowt 
in  blue  grass,  and  the  rest  under  cultivation.  It  is  well  watered  by  bold  springs,  and  the 
water  is  filtered  for  the  stock.  There  is  also  a  deer  park  of  500  acres,  where  from  250  tc 
300  deer  are  kept,  furnishing  venison,  and  pleasant  excitement  in  the  chase.  The  owners 
of  Belle  Meade  paid  about  $90,000  for  Enquirer,  Luke  Blackburn,  Iroquois,  Imported 
Great  Tom,  Bramble,  and  Inspector  B.  (the  stallions  now  in  use)  ;  and  under  noble  old  trees 
are  the  honored  graves  of  Vandal,  Jack  Malone  (one  of  the  best  sons  of  Lexington),  Im- 
ported Priam,  Imported  Bonnie  Scotland,  and  other  famous  kings  of  the  turf.  All  distin- 
guished visitors  to  Nashville  drive  out  the  smooth  turnpike  to  Belle  Meade,  where  they 
receive  delightful  entertainment  in  one  of  the  fairest  regions  of  Tennessee. 

Minerals. —  The  iron  industries  of  Chattanooga  and  Nashville  are  well-known,  and 
new  towns  are  springing  up  along  Walden's  Ridge  and  the  Sequatchie  Valley.  Among  these 
are  Dayton,  with  its  railway  and  great  blast-furnaces ;  Rockwood,  on  the  Tennessee,  with  an 


THE  STATE  OF   TENNESSEE. 


80 1 


SOUTHERN    IRON    CO. 


TYPICAL    FURNACE. 


iron  company  capitalized  at  $1,000,000;  Bristol,  on  the  Virginian  border;  and  Harriman, 
with  abundant  high-grade  soft  ore,  surrounded  with  coking  coal.  In  1880  Tennessee  pro- 
duced 71,000  tons  of  pig-iron,  and  in  1889  the  output  had  risen  to  473,000. 

The  Southern  Iron  Company,  of  Nashville,  was 
organized  in  1889,  to  consolidate  the  interests  of 
many  important  and  rapidly  developing  establish- 
ments, in  order  to  obviate  ruinous  competition,  and 
to  avert  the  danger  of  an  over-supply  of  iron.  It 
absorbed  several  large  iron  and  steel  companies  in 
Tennessee  and  Alabama,  and  became  possessed  of  a 
number  of  active  blast-furnaces.  Among  the  valu- 
able properties  thus  acquired  were  the  celebrated 
Roane  Steel  Mills,  and  many  other  valuable  plants.  Great  tact  and  energy  were  shown  by 
the  officers  of  the  Southern  Iron  Company  in  improving  their  new  acquisitions,  and  placing 
them  in  the  most  efficient  working  order,  thereby  securing  a  commanding  position  among 
the  manufacturing  corporations  of  America.  Its  leading  specialty  is  the  manufacture  of 
charcoal-iron  for  car-wheels  and  other  purposes.  In  1890  the  company  opened  the  great 
steel-mill  at  Chattanooga,  for  the  making  of  steel  for  rails,  etc.  The  capital  of  the  Southern 
Iron  Company  is  $6,000,000;  and  its  operations  cover  a  vast  area  of  the  iron-producing 
States  of  the  South.  From  its  central  offices  at  Nashville  go  forth  the  orders  which  exem- 
plify its  wise  and  cautious  policy,  and  there  are  held  the  councils  by  which  the  future  con- 
duct of  many  thousands  of  men  are  arranged  for.  Here  are  also  received  the  orders  for 
Southern  iron  and  steel  and  their  products,  coming  from  all  parts  of  the  country. 

The  coal-field,  which  extends  from  Pennsylvania   _, 
into  Alabama,  occupies  5,000  square  miles  of  the     :; 
Cumberland  Plateau,  and  is  mined  to  the  amount  of 
2,000,000   tons   yearly.     The    Sewanee  Mines  em- 
ploy 600  men  ;  and  there  are  large  mines  in  the  vi- 
cinity of  Knoxville,    Chattanooga   and    elsewhere. 
Copper  is   mined   in  Polk  County,  the  works  em- 
ploying 1,000  men,  and  producing  great  quantities 
of  ingot  copper.      Lead  mines  are  worked  in  Brad- 
ley, Washington  and  Monroe  Counties. 

The  State  abounds  in  marble  quarries,  producing  Parian  white,  red,  yellow,  black,  fawn- 
colored,  gray,  blue,  breccia,  red,  variegated,  chocolate,  claret,  conglomerate  and  many 
other  varieties.  The  magnificent  staircases  of  the  Capitol  at  Washington  were  made  of  the 
light  mottled  strawberry  marble  of  the  Holston  River.  The  Tennessee  marbles  are  among 
the  finest  in  the  world,  being  free  from  iron  and  sulphur,  and  hence  not  likely  to  tarnish 

or  stain.  Tennessee  marble  is  gaining  an  en- 
viable reputation,  and  is  largely  shipped  to  all 
parts  of  the  country.  The  most  popular  of 
these  marbles  is  the  variegated,  or  combina- 
tion of  red  and  white.  The  white  marble 
used  in  the  Knoxville  Custom  House  is 
claimed  to  be  the  finest  building  stone  in  the 
country.  When  polished  it  does  not  present 
a  glaring  white  surface,  but  a  delicate  pink  is 
evident.  Knoxville  is  the  centre  of  the  marble 
section.  There  are  28  quarries  ;  and  the  city 
contains  three  mills  for  sawing  and  cutting 
the  marble  into  shape.  The  output  is  gov- 
erned by  the  Tennessee  Producers'  Marble 


TENNESSEE  PRODUCERS'  MARBLE  CO. 


§02 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED  STATES. 


Company,  incorporated  in  1889,  and  now  with  a  capital  of  $200,000,  and  operating  13  quar- 
ries.      It  is  one  of  the  largest  concerns  of  its  kind  in  the  State ;  and  the  main  office  is  at 


Knoxville.     These  marbles 
Capitol  at  Washington  and 


are  to  be  found  in  many  noted  buildings,  including  th( 
the  State  Capitol  of  New  York.     The  output  last  year 
amounted  to  270,000  tons,  which  was  sent  chiefly  to  New 
York,  Boston,  Baltimore  and  Philadelphia.     There  is  no 
more  beautiful  building  material  in  the  world  than  these 
exquisite  marbles  of  Tennessee,  whose  use  is  rapidly 
extending  everywhere. 

There  are  several  large  limestone  quarries  near 
Nashville.  Tennessee  also  has  vast  deposits  of  pot- 
ter's clay,  fire-clay  and  kaolin,  which  have  given  rise 
SEWANEE  :  UNIVERSITY  OF  THE  SOUTH.  to  ^Q  potteries  at  Knoxville,  Nashville  and  Memphis. 
Other  treasures  of  the  earth  are  the  lithographic  stone  of  McMinn  ;  the  beautiful  red  and 
gray  granites  of  Carter ;  the  unakite,  or  green  granite,  of  the  Unaka  Mountains  ;  the  mill- 
stones of  Claiborne  ;  the  saltpetre  and  Epsom 
salts  of  the  caverns ;  the  alum  and  copperas  of 
the  middle  counties ;  the  petroleum  of  Spring 
Creek  ;  the  hydraulic  rock  of  Hardin  ;  the  man- 
ganese of  East  Tennessee ;  the  asbestos  of  Cocke; 
the  Milestone  and  iron  pyrites  of  Ducktown  ;  and 
the  baryta  (or  spar)  of 
Greene  and  Carter.  The 
mineral  springs  are 

:  famous  for  their  variety  and  virtue,  and  pour  out  from  the  high 
crests  of  the  Smokies,  as  well  as  along  the  Cumberland  Plateau. 
They  include  the  Beersheba  chalybeate  waters,  on  the  Cumber- 
land Plateau  ;  the  Montvale  calcic-chalybeate  springs,  in  the 
Chilhowee  Mountains ;  the  Rhea  Springs,  in  East  Tennessee,  amid  the  pure  dry  air  of  the 


KNOXVILLE  I     UNIVERSITY    OF    TENNESSEE. 


NASHVILLE  : 
PEABODY    NORMAL   COLLEGE. 


able  chalybeate  waters, 
tains,  looking  out  on 
and  Georgia;  and  Oliver 


mountains;  Raymond's  Springs,  with  valu- 
1,700  feet  high  on  the  Cumberland  Moun- 
the  far-away  blue  ranges  of  North  Carolina 
Springs,  near  Walden's  Ridge,  with  chaly- 
beate, red  and  white  sulphur  and  other 
medicinal  waters.  The  Tate  Epsom 
Spring,  in  a  pleasant  valley  near  the  Clinch 
Mountains,  has  a  great  modern  hotel,  with 
abundant  and  strong  laxative  and  tonic 
waters,  efficaceous  in  curing  dyspepsia, 
and  other  diseases.  The  Red  Boiling 
Springs  in  Macon  County,  and  the  Hurri- 
cane Springs  in  Franklin  County,  are  well 
known,  and  have  their  quotas  of  summer- 
guests,  seeking  pleasure  and  health. 

Government. —  The  governor  is  elect- 
ed for  two  years  ;  and  so  also  are  the  33 

senators  and  99  representatives  who  make  up  the  General  Assem- 
bly, meeting  every  other  year,  and  choosing  the  other  executive 
officers.  There  are  five  elective  Supreme-Court  judges,  with  ap- 
pellate jurisdiction  ;  eleven  elective  eight-year  chancellors,  with  chancery  courts  ;  14  circuit 
courts,  for  common-law  cases  ;  and  the  county  criminal  courts,  the  magistrates  assembling 
four  times  yearly  at  the  county-seat.  The  State  House  was  built  in  1853,  of  a  beautiful 


' 


THE  STATE   OF   TENNESSEE.  803 

Tennessee  fossiliferous  limestone,  at  a  cost  of  $1,000,000,  on  Capitol  Hill,  overlooking 
Nashville  and  the  valley.  It  contains  the  State  library  of  30,000  volumes,  and  an  interest- 
ing gallery  of  portraits.  The  State  Hospital  for  the  Insane,  six  miles  from  Nashville,  has 

400  inmates.  The  Ten- 
nessee School  for  the 
Deaf  and  Dumb,  at 
Knoxville,  has  115  stu- 
dents. The  State  Peni- 
tentiary at  Nashville  is 
run  on  the  private-lease  ~~J* 
system. 

Common  Schools  FISK  UNIVERSITY 
existed  before  the  war,  for  white  children  only,  but 
NASHVILLE  ;    F,sK  UNIVERSITY,  juB.LEE  HALL.      now  all  children  between  six  and  21  are  entitled  to 

free  education.  The  University  of  the  South  was  designed  by  Bishop  Leonidas  Polk  of 
Louisiana,  for  a  great  school  of  learning.  The  bishops  assembled  in  i857»  and  acquired 
10,000  acres  of  land  for  the  university  domain.  The  Secession  War  stopped  the  scheme 
midway ;  but  after  that  vast  tragedy  had  ended,  the  Church  renewed  its  design,  and  large 
funds  were  raised  for  it  in  England,  after  the  Lambeth  Congress  of  1867.  In  1868  the 
university  went  into  operation,  on  the  noble  plateau  of  Sewanee,  2, 100  feet  high  on  the 
Cumberland  Mountains,  amid  great  forests  and  crystal  streams,  and  in  a  remarkably  brac- 


LIVINGSTONE  HALL. 


ing  and  healthy  climate.     The  stone 
Hall  date  from  1878-9,  and  contain 
logical  school.     The  beautiful  tower  of 
dalen  Tower,    at   Oxford.     Fourteen 
the  support  of  this  noble  institu- 
300  students.     There  are  154  in 
theological  school,  and  116  in  the 
students  are  uniformed,  and  drilled 
The  University  of  Tennessee 
year  1794,  and  was  opened  in  1807, 
from    1862  to   1866.      In    1869  it 


NASHVILLE  :    POST-OFFICE. 


buildings  of  Hodgson  Hall  and  St. -Luke's 
the  library  (24,000  volumes)  and  the  theo- 
Convocation  Hall  recalls  the  Mag- 
Southern  dioceses  contribute  to 
tion,  which  has  30  instructors  and 
the  academic  department,  20  in  the 
grammar-school.  The  younger 
by  a  United- States  officer. 
:  received  its  incorporation  in  the 
and  occupied  for  military  purposes 
received  the  agricultural  -  college 

fund,  and  became  also  the  State  Agricultural  and  Mechanical  College,  with  classical,  me- 
chanical and  agricultural  courses,  and  a  model  stock-farm  of  275  acres.  The  students  are 
uniformed  and  drilled,  and  under  military  discipline.  The  buildings  crown  a  far- viewing  hill 
near  Knoxville.  Its  medical  and  dental  departments  are  at  Nashville,  with  full  faculties 
and  large  classes,  numbering  nearly  300  students. 

The  University  of  Nashville  was  organized  as  an  academy  in  1785,  and  from  1826  (when 
it  became  a  university)  to  1850,  under  Dr.  Philip  Lindsley,  held  high  rank  as  a  classical 
school.  In  1875  its  trustees  and  the  trustees  of  the  Peabody  Education  Fund  converted 
the  literary  department  into  the  now-famous  Peabody 
Normal  College,  supported  by  the  fund,  the 
Tennessee,  and  the  University,  and  edu- 
cating 400  young  men  and  women  to  be 
teachers.  The  medical  department  of  the 
University  was  united  with  that  of  Van- 
derbilt  University  in  1875,  the  23°  scholars 
of  the  joint  school  occupying  the  buildings 
of  the  former.  The  Montgomery  Bell  Acad- 
emy is  a  classical  school,  under  the  Univer- 
sity. The  Normal  College  occupies  an  an- 
cient and  ivy-clad  buttressed  stone  building.  NASHVILLE  :  ROGER-WILLIAMS  UNIVERSITY. 


State  of 


804 


KING^S   HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


MEMPHIS:  TENNESSEE  CLUB. 


Vanderbilt  University  was  chartered  in  1872,  and  endowed  by  Commodore  Vanderbilt  with 
f  1,000,000 ;  and  is  conducted  by  the  M.  E.  Church.  It  occupies  a  park-like  domain  of  71 
acres,  on  the  high  hills  near  Nashville,  and  has  extensive  modern  equipments  and  noble 
buildings.  In  University  Hall  are  the  chemical  and  pharmaceutical,  academic  and  law 
schools,  and  the  library  (16,000  volumes),  chapel  and  museums.  In  Science  Hall  are  the  en- 
gineering school,  the  forge  and  machinery  rooms,  and  geological  and  natural-history  cabinets. 
Wesley  Hall  has  the  theological  department,  chapel  and  refectory.  There  is  also  an  observa- 
tory and  a  gymnasium.  The  university  has  70  instructors  and  over  600  students ;  150  acad- 
emic, 50  biblical,  40  in  law,  230  medical,  100  dental,  30  pharmaceutical  and  50  in  engineering. 
Cumberland  University,  founded  in  1842  by  the  General  Assembly  of  the  Cumberland 
Presbyterian  Church,  is  at  Lebanon,  and  has  113  students,  besides  57  in  law,  37  in  theology 
and  no  preparatory.  Cumberland  is  steadily  regaining  the  prominent  position  which  it 
held  before  the  war,  when  over  500  students  thronged  its  halls. 
The  U.  S.  Grant  University  is  a  Methodist  institution,  formed 
by  the  consolidation  of  the  Chattanooga  and  Grant  Memorial 
Universities  in  1889.  The  academic,  theological  and  techno- 
logical departments  are  at  Athens ;  the  academic,  collegiate, 
law  and  medical  departments  at  Chattanooga.  There  are  452 
students,  about  70  of  whom  are  collegiate.  The  Southwestern 
Presbyterian  University  (130  students)  was  founded  at  Clarks- 
ville  in  1874;  the  Southwestern  Baptist  University  (130),  at 
Jackson  in  1874;  King  College  (66),  by  the  Presbyterians  at 
Bristol  in  1869  ;  Hiwassee  College,  by  the  Methodists  in  1849  > 
Bethel  College  (303),  by  the  Cumberland  Presbyterians  at 
McKenzie  in  1847;  Maryville  College  (222)  and  Tusculum 
College  (30),  by  the  Presbyterians  in  1819  and  1794;  Carson 
College  (29),  in  1849  >  and  Burritt  College  by  the  Christians  at  Spencer  in  1850. 

Nashville  is  often  called  "the  Athens  of  the  South,"  and  besides  its  colleges  for  whites, 
it  is  the  foremost  seat  of  education  for  the  African  race  in  the  world,  having  several  great 
institutions  for  colored  students. 

Roger-Williams  University  was  founded  at  Nashville  in  1864,  by  the  Baptists,  for  colored 
youths,  and  has  284  students,  including  247  normals  and  26  in  theology.  It  possesses  several 
buildings  on  a  domain  of  30  acres  adjoining  Vanderbilt  University.  Fisk  University  at  Nash- 
ville dates  from  1866,  and  is  one  of  the  foremost  schools  for  educating  the  colored  race.  It 
is  Congregational  in  polity,  and  a  foundation  of  the  American  Missionary  Association.  There 
are  400  students  in  all  departments,  normal,  academic,  industrial  and  musical.  Jubilee  Hall 
and  Livingstone  Hall  are  noble  and  commodious  buildings,  in  a  park  of  25  acres.  In  1866,  the 
Methodist  Episcopal  Church  founded  at  Nashville  the  Central  Tennessee  College,  which  has 
40  instructors  and  600  students,  in  preparatory,  college,  scientific,  medical,  dental,  pharmaceu- 
tical, theological,  law  and  industrial  courses,  and  a  training-school  for  missionaries  to  Africa. 
National, —  For  some  years  a  navy-yard  was  kept  up  at  Memphis,  but  it  was  abandoned 
in  1853.  In  1887  Congress  ordered  the  establishment  of  a  National  Arsenal  at  Columbia, 
and  its  construction  began  in  1890.  Some  measure  of  the  preciousness  of  Tennessee  soil 
to  the  Republic  may  be  seen  from  the  National  cemeteries  here  :  Chattanooga,  with  13,007 
graves;  Fort  Donelson,  669;  Knoxville,  3, 1 57;  Memphis,  13,981;  Nashville,  16,534; 
Shiloh,  3,596  ;  and  Stone's  River,  6,145. 

Chief  Cities. — Nashville  rests  in  the  heart  of  the  great  central  basin,  with  six  con- 
verging railways  and  the  navigable  Cumberland  River,  66  churches,  several  universities 
and  colleges,  imposing  public  buildings,  electric  cars,  water-works,  and  efficient  fire  and 
police  departments.  It  is  the  foremost  city  in  the  world  for  manufacturing  hard-wood  lum- 
ber, the  largest  flour-milling  city  in  the  South,  and  the  second  jobbing  city  in  the  South. 
Its  incorporated  companies  represent  a  capital  of  $90,000,000.  The  Watkins  Institute 


THE  STATE   OF   TENNESSEE.  805 

contains  the  Historical  Society,  city  library  and  art-school.     There  are  9,000  children  in  the 
public  schools,  and  a  great  many  others  in  the  28  private  seminaries. 

Among  the  conspicuous  edifices  of  Nashville,  which  give  a  metropolitan  character 
to  the  chief  city  of  Tennessee,  is  the  fine  Baxter  Court,  the  tallest  office  building  in  the 
State,  and  admirably  situated  in  the  heart  of  the  business  district.  A  part  of  this  towering 
pile  of  masonry  is  used  for  a  hotel,  on  the  American  and  European 
plans  ;  and  the  rest  is  chiefly  devoted  to  offices  for  lawyers,  where 
the  legal  luminaries  of  the  Tennessee  bar  find  a  local  habitation 
during  their  hours  of  labor  and  study.  The  topmost  floor  contains 
a  finely  appointed  and  extensive  law  library,  specially  for  the  con- 
venience of  the  tenants,  but  often  consulted  by  lawyers  resident  or 
visiting  in  the  city.  The  projector  and  owner  of  this  architectural 
ornament  of  Nashville  is  the  Hon.  Jere  Baxter,  the  son  of  Judge 
N.  Baxter.  Although  yet  a  young  man,  he  has  taken  an  active 
part  in  developing  the  railroad  and  industrial  and  agricultural  ac- 
tivities of  his  State,  and  is  prominently  mentioned  as  a  candidate 
for  the  Governorship.  Mr.  Baxter's  beautiful  estate,  Maplewood, 
seven  miles  from  Nashville,  is  one  of  the  famous  stock-farms  of 
Tennessee. 

The  erection  of  the  Maxwell  House  at  Nashville  was  begun 
just  before  the  war.  The  walls  were  built  and  the  roof  put  on,  and 
when  hostilities  began  its  completion  was  stopped.  When  Nash- 
ville was  occupied  by  the  Union  troops,  the  building  was  used  as 
a  barrack.  The  house  was  completed  and  opened  in  1869,  by 
John  Overton.  In  1880  it  passed  into  the  hands  of  the  Maxwell-House  Company,  and 
has  ever  since  been  successfully  managed.  It  contains  over  250  rooms,  and  is  the  largest 
and  best  hotel  in  Tennessee,  and  the  political  headquarters  in  the  State  for  all  parties. 
Many  distinguished  people  have  stopped  there  —  Generals  Hooker,  Halleck,  Custer  and  For- 
rest ;  Presidents  Andrew  Johnson,  R.  B.  Hayes,  and  Grover  Cleveland ;  Senators  Mont- 
gomery Blair,  John  Sherman,  Evarts,  Bayard,  Randall  and  Schurz ;  and  also  Neilson,  Patti, 

Abbott,  Langtry,  Booth,  Barrett,  Forrest,  Mario  and 
Brignoli.  The  successive  Governors  of  the  State  have 
stopped  there  without  an  exception  since  the  house  was 
opened.  The  Maxwell  is  kept  up  to  the  demands  of  the 
city,  and  is  carefully  renovated  and  remodelled  from 
time  to  time.  In  1890  more  than  $50,000  were  ex- 
pended on  the  house,  so  as  to  make  it  the  most  acceptable 
hotel  in  this  part  of  the  country.  It  is  five  stories  high, 
and  occupies  a  space  of  225  by  200  feet.  The  Maxwell 

NASHVILLE:  MAXWELL  HOUSE.  js  aiso  faQ  most  conveniently  located  hotel  in  Nashville. 

Memphis  stands  on  the  Fourth  Chickasaw  Bluff,  its  wide  esplanade  overlooking  the 
Mississippi  River,  with  ten  converging  railways  and  14  steamboat  lines,  an  enormous  whole- 
sale trade  and  cotton  export,  and  cotton-seed-oil  mills.  It  is  the  most  important  point  between 
St.  Louis  and  New  Orleans,  and  in  spite  of  past  pestilence  and  municipal  bankruptcy,  has 
developed  into  a  great  city.  The  broad  river  that  lapses  against  its  sandstone  levee  is  very 
deep  and  free  from  ice.  The  costly  railway  bridge  now  being  built  here  across  the  Mississippi 
River  will  give  Memphis  a  vast  Southwestern  trade.  The  city  has  10,000  workmen  in  its 
factories.  It  does  a  grocery  business  of  $25,000,000  a  year,  and  is  a  chief  distributing  point 
for  shoes  and  hardware.  There  are  1,000  lumber-mills  in  the. Memphis  district,  with  an  out- 
put of  i  oo,  ooo,  ooo  feet  a  year.  Knoxville,  "The  Queen  City  of  the  Mountains,"  and  once  the 
capital  of  Tennessee,  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  hills  over  the  upper  Tennessee  River, 
with  valuable  railway  connections,  and  a  country  trade  of  $25,000,000  a  year.  It  has  35 


8o6 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


LOOKOUT  MOUNTAIN  AND  HOTEL:  E.  T.,  V.  &  G.  R.  R. 


churches,  two  colleges,  a  Government  build- 
ing of  marble,  a  handsome  public  library, 
and  large  foundries,  cotton-mills,  car-works 
and  zinc- works.  The  remains  of  John  Sevier, 
the  first  governor  of  Tennessee,  were  re- 
moved from  North  Alabama  in  1889,  and 
buried  at  Knoxville,  with  imposing  cere- 
monies. Knoxville  is  the  literary,  commer- 
cial and  political  metropolis  of  East  Tennes- 
see, and  from  its  throne  of  hills  in  the  centre 
of  the  valley  looks  southward  to  the  mag- 
nificent line  of  the  Smoky  Mountains.  It  was  the  home  of  Jackson  and  Blount,  of  John 
Sevier  and  David  Crockett,  of  Parson  Brownlow  and  Horace  Maynard ;  and  cherishes 
the  memories  of  three  perilous  sieges  and  assaults  by  hostile  armies.  Bristol,  on  the 
Virginian  frontier,  also  deals  largely  in  tobacco.  Columbia  has  several  mills,  and  an  en- 
vironment of  stock-farms.  Jackson,  in  West  Tennessee,  is  a  famous  cotton-market,  with 
half-a-dozen  factories.  The  country  around  Murfreesboro  is  prolific  in  cotton  and  fruit. 
Lebanon  and  Shelby ville  are  well-known  markets  for  mules.  Chattanooga  arose  in  1836,  at 
the  intersection  of  the  inter-state  wagon-roads  through  the  mountains,  and  is  now  the  converg- 
ing point  of  nine  railways,  and  an  important  port  on  the  Tennessee  River,  being  only  34  miles 
farther  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  (by  water),  than  Cincinnati.  There  are  22  coal-mines  and  1 7 
iron-furnaces  in  the  district,  producing  yearly  1,250,000  tons  of  coal,  and2,4OO  coke-ovens. 
The  first  Bessemer  steel  in  the  South  was  made  here,  and  the  Roane  Works  have  a  capacity  of 
250  tons  daily.  The  city  has  152  factories,  employing  8,500  persons  and  producing 
$i  1,000,000  worth  of  goods  yearly.  It  also  enjoys  a  large  trade  in  grain  and  lumber. 

Rising  1,700  feet  above  the  Tennessee  River, 
the  world-famed  Lookout  Mountain  lifts  its 
noble  head,  from  which  seven  States  may  be 
seen.  The  natural  panorama  is  remarkable,  and 
travelers  who  have  journeyed  on  both  sides  of  the 
water  say  that  the  views  from  Lookout  Point  are 
without  a  peer.  To  the  natural  attractions  are 
added  memories  of  historic  importance.  The 
mountain  and  its  surroundings  were  the  scene  of 
some  of  the  greatest  struggles  of  the  Civil  War. 
These  sights  are  now  easily  accessible  to  the 
tourist,  owing  to  the  completion  of  the  Chatta- 
nooga &  Lookout-Mountain  Railway,  a  standard  broad-gauge  road,  operating  the  best  of 
rolling-stock.  Every  train  has  with  it  one  or  two  Pullman  coaches.  The  length  of  the 
road  from  Chattanooga  to  the  top  of  the  mountain  is  ten  miles.  The  line  traverses  some 
of  the  better  suburbs  of  the  city,  and  beginning  the  ascent  passes  the  old  Cravens  house, 
which  was  occupied  by  General  Walthall  as  his  headquarters  during  the  battle.  Follow- 
ing the  trend  of  the  mountain,  the  train 
passes  the  various  points  of  interest,  includ- 
ing the  old  Confederate  fort,  which  is  still 
standing.  The  line  ends  at  Lookout  Point, 
1,700  feet  above  the  sea  level.  Every  pre- 
caution against  accident  has  been  taken. 
The  track  is  heavily  ballasted  with  stone, 
and  laid  with  the  best  6o-pound  steel  rails. 
The  engines  are  equipped  with  Westinghouse 
and  Eames  automatic  brakes.  At  the  end 


LOOKOUT  MOUNTAIN  AND  TENNESSEE  RIVER. 


a 

LOOKOUT    MOUNTAIN 


THE  LOOKOUT    INN. 


SUNRISE  ROCK  : 
CHATTANOOGA   &    LOOKOUT- 
MOUNTAIN   RAILROAD. 


THE  STATE  OF   TENNESSEE. 

of  the  road  and  on  the  top  of  the  mountain  is  the  Lookout  Inn, 
one  of  the  best  hotels  in  the  South,  and  in  fact  one  of  the  finest 
resorts  in  America.  The  building  is  five  stories  high,  and  includ- 
ing its  two  extensive  wings,  it  is  365  feet  in  length.  It  is  an  at- 
tractive and  substantial  brick  and  stone  structure,  designed  by 
Sully  &  Toledano.  In  the  centre  is  a  lofty  tower,  at  the  top  of 
which  rises  an  observatory,  whence  may  be  had  the  finest  view  from 
the  mountain.  Verandas  extend  entirely  around  the  building. 
The  hotel  has  600  rooms,  and  with  the  annexed  cottages  can  accom- 
modate 1,000  guests.  The  grand  hall  is  50  by  80  feet;  and  the 
dining-room,  which  is  70  by  115  feet,  will  seat  600  persons.  An 
orchestra  and  band  are  present  all  the  season,  and  scarcely  an  even- 
ing passes  without  a  hop  or  a  german.  Some  of  the  choicest 
parts  of  Lookout  Mountain  have  been  laid  out  for  residences,  and 
the  Lookout-Mountain  Company  has  brought  about  a  considerable 
settlement  in  this  locality,  so  famous  for  its  history  and  so  charming  for  its  picturesqueness. 
Coming  down  from  Lookout  Mountain,  but  before  arriving  at  Chattanooga,  can  be  seen 
the  grand  property  of  the  Chattanooga  Land,  Coal,  Iron  &  Railway  Company.  This 
company  owns  20,000  acres  of  land,  one  third  of  which  is  nearer  the  city  than  any  other 

unoccupied  territory.  The  prop- 
erty of  the  company  is  bordered  by 
eleven  miles  of  deep-water  river 
front.  Hamilton  County,  in  which 
Chattanooga  is  situated,  has  built 
a  public  bridge  over  the  Tennessee 
River,  leading  direct  from  the 
heart  of  the  city  to  the  company's 
property.  The  bridge  is  of  iron 
and  steel,  built  at  a  cost  of  $250-, 
ooo.  The  company  owns  5,000 
acres  on  Walden's  Ridge.  This 
situation  is  remarkable  for  its 
•sanitary  excellence,  being  a  part 
of  the  celebrated  Cumberland 
table-land,  where  no  case  of  pulmonary  consumption  ever  occurred.  These  lands  abound  in 
coal  and  fossiliferous  iron  ores.  The  coal  is  excellent  for  coking  purposes.  In  addition 
to  this,  the  company  owns  7,500  acres  of  fine  limestone  property.  The  Chattanooga  Land, 
Coal,  Iron  &  Railway  Company  is  heavily  backed  by  Northern  and  English  capital,  and 
forms  one  of  the  soundest  organizations  of  this  character  in  the  South.  The  company  has 
built  an  electric  railway,  reaching  from  the  heart  of  the  city,  and  running  through  its  prop- 
erty nearest  the  city.  Its  plans  are  also  matured  for  a  standard-gauge  steam  railway  bridge 
over  the  Tennessee  River,  and  a  railway  to  the  mountains  for  the  development  of  its  great 
areas  of  coal.  It  contemplates  adding  a  residence  and  manufacturing  suburb  to 
Chattanooga,  and  gives  liberal  aid  to  enterprises  locating  on  its  lands. 


MOCCASIN    BEND,    FROM    LOOKOUT    MOUNTAIN. 


CHATTANOOGA,   ON    THE   TENNESSEE   RIVER. 


KItfG'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE  UNITED  STA  TE$. 


Finances. —  The  net  debt  of  the  State  has  fallen  from  nearly  $28,000,000  to  $15,000,- 
ooo  in  1890.  The  floating  debt  has  been  extinguished,  and  the  obligations  are  now  con- 
centrated in  a  bonded  debt.  In  point  of  banking,  as  well  as  a  cotton  mar- 
ket, Memphis  is  a  live  city.  Its  banking  capital  is  $10,000,000,  and  its 
yearly  clearing-house  business  exceeds  $125,000,000.  The  State  banks  of 
Tennessee  outnumber  the  National  banks.  The  largest  bank  in  the  State 
is  the  Bank  of  Commerce,  of  Memphis.  This  is  one  of  the  most  flourishing 
banks  in  the  South.  It  has  $1,000,000  of  capital  stock,  and  about  $350,- 
ooo  surplus  and  undivided  profits.  Its  total  assets  amount  to  over  $3,000,- 
ooo.  There  are  individual  and  bank  deposits  approximating  $1,500,000. 
The  president  is  S.  H.  Dunscomb ;  the  vice-president  is  John  Overton, 
Jr. ;  and  J.  A.  Omberg  is  the  cashier.  The  Bank  of  Commerce  has  a 
board  of  directors  that  includes  some  of  the  most  influential  and  substan- 
tial citizens  of  Memphis.  It  owns  and  occupies  its  own  building,  which 
was  specially  designed  for  this  institution.  The  advancement  of  the  Bluff 
BANK  OF  COMMERCE,  city  to  its  present  high  place  has  been  largely  aided  by  this  powerful  and 
sagacious  bank,  which  stands  ready  to  give  financial  aid  to  all  properly  accredited  enter- 
prises, and  to  stimulate  in  every  possible  way  the  growth  at  this  point  of  the  metropolis  of 
the  lower  Mississippi  Valley.  The  enormous  transactions  in  cotton  and  lumber  in  this  re- 
gion render  necessary  a  banking  system  of  the  most  careful  and  skilful  organization,  and 
this  is  furnished  by  the  Bank  of  Commerce  of  Memphis. 

The  cotton  princes  of  Memphis  are  mainly  united  in  six  firms,  with  an  aggregate  capital 
exceeding  $10,000,000,  and  their  energy  and  intelligence  have  madeof  this  city  thelargest  in- 
terior cotton  market  of  the  world.  Foremost  among  these  is  the  firm  of  Hill,  Fontaine  &  Co., 
called  the  largest  inland  receivers  of  cotton  in  the  world,  and  covering  ten  States  with  their 
enterprises,  in  which  they  have  an  invested  capital  of  $2,000,000.  Their  crop  reports  are 
gathered  by  an  army  of  correspondents,  and  telegraphed  all  over  Europe  and  America  as 
unimpeachable  authority.  In  a  single  year  they  have  received  on  consignment  and  sold  on 

commission  the  enormous  quantity  of  136,000 
bales  of  cotton.     The  business  also  includes  a 
large  wholesale  grocery  trade,  furnishing  sup- 
plies for  a  broad  area  of  the  Mississippi  Valley. 
The  firm  occupies  a  high  position  as  commis- 
sion-merchants, selling  actual  cotton  received, 
and    doing  a   total  business  of  $8,000,000   a 
year.     Its  name  is  a  tower  of  strength  among 
the   planters    of  half  a  score  of    States ;  and 
MEMPHIS -.WAREHOUSE  NO.  1,  OF  HILL,  FONTAINE  &  co.      whenever    seasons  of  depression  come,   Hill, 
Fontaine  &  Company  are  always  ready,  with  their  large  capital  and  influence,  to  secure  for 
the  producers  the  full  value  of  their  crops. 

Railroads  here  began  with  the  Memphis  Railroad,  chartered  in  1831,  when  there  were 
but  fifty  miles  of  track  in  America.  Their  construction  was  advocated  by  Gen.  Gaines  and 
Col.  Hayne  of  South  Carolina,  in  1835.  Ten  years  passed  before  the  Nashville  &  Chat- 
tanooga line  received  incorporation,  and  only  in  1853  did  the  trains  begin  running  between 
Nashville  and  Bridgeport.  The  Memphis  &  Charleston  Railroad  got  its  charter  in  1846, 
and  finished  the  line  in  1857.  The  Hiwassee  (East-Tennessee  &  Georgia)  Railroad  was 
chartered  in  1836,  and  began  construction  near  Athens  in  1837,  but  trains  ran  from  Dalton 
to  Knoxville  only  in  1867.  This  route  was  connected  with  the  Virginia  system  a  year  later. 
The  Nashville  &  Northwestern  began  in  1852,  and  reached  Hickman  in  1868.  The 
Louisville  &  Nashville  was  opened  in  1859,  and  its  Memphis  branch  in  1860.  The  first 
important  highway  in  Tennessee  was  the  Natchez  Trace,  cut  through  by  the  Government, 
in  Jefferson's  administration,  from  Kentucky  to  Natchez,  the  route  lying  35  miles  west- 


KNOXVIULE  :     E.    T. ,  V.    4 


THE  STATE  OF   TENNESSEE.  809 

ward  of  Nashville.  It  was  much  used  by  boatmen  returning  from  New  Orleans.  The 
Military  Road  was  cut  by  Gen.  Jackson  from  Nashville  to  Jackson,  Miss.,  for  the  passage 
of  troops  and  supplies,  and  afterwards  became  a  famous  route  for  stages  and  hog  and 
mule  drivers.  The  rugged  and  hilly  early  roads  have  been  replaced  by  a  far-reaching 
and  efficient  system  of  macadamized  turnpikes,  built  at  a  cost  of  millions  of  dollars. 

The  heart  of  the  South  is  penetrated  by  means 
of  the  East-Tennessee,  Virginia  &  Georgia  Railroad. 
This  great  system  has  its  centre  at  Chattanooga  and 
throws  out  its  branches  in  every  direction.  Passing 
northward  it  intersects  at  Knoxville  with  two  great 
branches,  one  reaching  Cincinnati  and  Chicago  and 
the  whole  West  and  Northwest  ;  the  other,  winding 
through  the  romantic  mountainous  regions  of  North 
Carolina,  Tennessee  and  Virginia,  passes  on  to  Nor- 
folk, Philadelphia  and  New  York.  From  Chatta- 
nooga westward  the  East-Tennessee,  Virginia  & 
Georgia  Railroad  reaches  out  one  of  its  great  arms  to  Memphis  and  the  navigation  of  the 
Mississippi  River.  Another  arm  extending  southeasterly  across  the  entire  expanse  of  the  State 
of  Georgia,  reaches  tidewater  at  Savannah  and  Brunswick,  and  at  Jacksonville  and  St.  Augus- 
.  tine,  Florida.  Still  another  arm  extends  southwesterly,  crosses  diagonally 

the  State  of  Alabama  and  reaches  Mobile  and  the  navigation  of  the  Gulf.  At 
Selma,  Ala.,  a  branch  divides,  which  extends  to  Meridian, 
Miss.,  and  thence  by  connections  New  Orleans  is  quickly  and 
easily  reached.  This  great  system  owns  or  controls  more  than 
1, 600  miles  of  track  line.  Fully  one  half  of  its  tracks  is  of  the 
best  steeh  The  company  is  financially  in  a  very  prosperous 
condition,  and  it  is  constantly  extending  its  track  and  increasing 
its  facilities  for  reaching  important  points.  It  has  a  capital 
of  $57,000,000,  with  a  funded  debt  of  $21,000,000.  This 
nourishing  corporation  is  the  successor  of  another  bearing  a 
similar  name,  whose  property  was  in  May,  1886,  sold  under 
KNOXVILLE:  foreclosure,  and  purchased  for  the  security-holders,  under  an 

GENERAL  OFFICES  OF  E.T.  ,v.  &  o.R.  R.  admirable  plan  of  reorganization.  This  was  speedily  effected, 
and  the  new  company  under  good  management  has  prospered  from  its  organization.  The 
road  is  a  favorite  with  people  visiting  the  South,  and  especially  with  those  seeking  the  moun- 
tain-resorts at  Chattanooga  and  Asheville,  and  throughout  Virginia  and  North  Carolina. 

The  Manufactures  of  Tennessee  rose  from  $20,000,000  of  invested  capital  and  $37,- 
000,000  of  output  in  1880,  to  $40,000,000  in  invested  capital  and  $75,000,000  in  yearly  out- 
put in  1885.  Tennessee  has  23  cotton-mills,  with  100,000  spindles,  employing  2,700  opera- 
tives and  using  33,000  bales  yearly;  19  woolen  mills,  with  900  hands,  using  2,113,000 
pounds  yearly ;  and  13  iron  and  steel  manufactories,  with  5,500  workmen.  The  yearly  pro- 
duct of  flour  reaches  $10,000,000;  of  lumber,  $5,000,000;  of  leather,  $2,000,000.  The 
cotton-seed-oil  mills  are  of  large  and  growing  importance,  producing  yearly  3,000,000  gal- 
lons of  oil  and  300,000  sacks  of  meal  and  cake.  This  industry  dates  from  1859,  and  at  first 
all  the  products  were  sent  to  England,  the  oil  being  used  entirely  for  lubricating. 

The  immensity  of  the  cotton  trade  in  this  country  is  due  in  a  great  measure  to  the  in- 
vention of  the  cotton  gin  by  Eli  Whitney.  Before  that  time  the  seeds  of  the  cotton  had  to 
be  picked  by  hand  from  the  fibre  by  a  very  slow  process.  The  Milburn  Gin  &  Machine  Com- 
pany of  Memphis  has  been  in  the  business  of  manufacturing  cotton  machinery  since  1879. 
Their  plant  comprises  an  exceptionally  large  block  of  fine  brick  buildings,  covering  over 
five  acres  of  ground,  where  500  men  are  employed.  The  company  was  incorporated  in 
1883,  and  was  practically  a  consolidation  of  two  companies,  the  Carver  Gin  &  Machine 


8io 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 


Company  and  the  Milburn  Iron  Works,  and  thus 
brought  about  one  of  the  notably  large  industries 
of  the  South.  The  material  alone  annually  con- 
sumed costs  nearly  $  500,  ooo.  Although  the  capital 
is  not  legally  set,  the  amount  used  is  nearly 
$1,000,000.  Besides  ginning  machines  they  turn 
out  steam-engines,  boilers,  tanks  and  oil-mill 
machinery.  In  the  specialty  of  wood-split  pulleys 
this  is  one  of  the  foremost  manufactories  in  the 
country,  making  immense  quantities,  which  are 
sold  throughout  the  Union.  This  company  has 
taken  several  awards.  They  have  agencies 
throughout  the  South,  and  in  Russia,  Australia  and  South  America.  The  Milburn  Gin  & 
Machine  Company  has  made  a  successful  competition  with  Northern  manufacturers. 

One  of  the  most  enterprising  cities  of  the  South  is  Memphis,  the  centre  of  the  upland 


MEMPHIS  :     MILBURN    GIN 


MACHINE   CO. 


points  in  the  coun- 
and     Mississippi, 


cotton  region,  and  one  of  the  leading  receiving 
try.  Four  States,  Alabama,  Tennessee,  Arkansas, 
send  much  of  their  raw  cotton  to  Memphis,  there 
to  be  brought  into  shape  and  shipped  on  the  Miss- 
issippi River,  or  on  some  of  the  many  railroads 
entering  the  city.  In  1889  over  700,000  bales 
were  received  here.  Formerly  the  compressing 
of  cotton  was  done  in  a  singularly  clumsy  way. 
Platforms  about  ten  feet  high  were  built,  from 

which  big  sacks  of  jute  bagging  hung.      Cotton  LOOKOUT  MOUNTAIN,  FROM  MISSIONARY  RIDGE. 

was  piled  in  until  the  sack  was  half  full.  Then  two  of  the  heaviest  negroes  of  the  plantation 
got  into  them,  to  tread  them  down.  The  Merchants'  Cotton  Press  &  Storage  Company, 
the  largest  of  its  kind  in  the  world,  was  founded  in  1870,  for  the  more  scientific  and  syste- 
matic handling  of  the  great  cotton-crops  of  the  States  of  which  Memphis  is  the  centre.  Its 
original  capital  of  $50,000  has  increased  to  $1,500,000,  with  a  large  and  available  surplus. 


MEMPHIS  :     THE    MERCHANTS'    COTTON    PRESS    &    STORAGE    COMPANY. 

The  plant  includes  six  first-class  modern  compressors,  of  the  Morse  &  Taylor  make,  with  an 
operating  capacity  for  10,000  bales  a  day.  In  a  single  year  they  have  compressed  over  5°°>" 
ooo  bales.  The  presses  are  located  in  five  different  localities  on  the  great  routes  centreing 
at  Memphis.  The  buildings  are  of  brick,  and  are  equipped  with  apparatus  for  the  extinguish- 
ing of  fire.  The  officers  are  Napoleon  Hill  (of  Hill,  Fontaine  &  Co.),  president;  S. 
Montgomery,  general  manager ;  and  J.  M.  Fowlkes,  secretary  and  treasurer. 


The  first  European  settle- 
ment in  Texas  was  made  by 
the  Sieur  de  la  Salle,  who 
in  1685  erected  Fort  St. 
Louis,  on  the  Lavaca,  near 
Matagorda  Bay.  The 
French  garrison  was  de- 
stroyed by  the  Indians;  and 
five  years  later  Capt.  De 
Leon  and  no  Spanish  sol- 
diers and  monks  founded  on  the  same  site  the  mission  of 
San  Francisco.  After  a  gloomy  period  of  Indian  hostilities 
and  failing  crops,  governor  and  garrisons  and  colonists 
abandoned  the  country  together.  In  1714  St.  Denis  was 
sent  to  occupy  Texas  for  France,  but  having  been  captured 
by  Spanish  troops  on  the  Rio  Grande,  he  aided  in  estab- 
lishing in  Texas  divers  Spanish  missions,  San  Antonio, 
Dolores,  San  Agostino,  and  Nacogdoches.  The  domain 
bore  the  name  of  The  New  Philippines,  and  the  Marquis  de 
Aguayo  became  its  governor -general.  For  over  a  century 
Franciscan  missionaries  and  clergy  worked  among  the- 
Indians,  converting  them  to  Christianity  and  semi-civiliza- 
tion. Their  decline  began  in  1758,  after  the  dreadful  mas- 
sacre of  the  pastors,  flock  and  garrison  of  San  Saba,  and 
the  workmen  in  the  silver  mines  near  that  place.  The 
Concepcion,  San  Jose  de  Aguayo,  San  Juan  Capistrano, 
San  Francisco  de  la  Espada  and  San  Fernando  Missions 
still  stand,  in  and  near  San  Antonio,  most  of  them  in  pic- 
turesque ruins.  The  Mission  of  San  Antonio  de  Valero, 
after  being  secularized  by  the  Spanish  Government,  in 
1793,  became  a  military  garrison,  and  received  a  deathless 
renown  under  the  name  of  the  Alamo. 

After  the  United  States  bought  Louisiana  from  France, 
it  became  a  grave  question  as  to  where  that  territory  ended 
on  the  west.  Spain  limited  it  to  the  Sabine,  America  claimed  to  the  Rio  Grande,  and  a 
neutral  ground  was  fixed  from  the  Sabine  to  Arroyo  Hondo,  until  (in  1819)  the  Sabine  be- 
came the  border.  For  many  years  revolutionary  forays  were  made  into  Texas,  by  Magee, 


STATISTICS. 

Settled  at San  Antonio. 

Settled  in 1690 

Founded  by Spaniards. 

Admitted  to  the  U.  S.,  .  .  1845 
Population,  in  1860,  .  .  .  604,215 

In  1870, 8i6,579 

In  1880 1,591,749 

White, 1,197,237 

Colored, 394,512 

American -born,     .     .     .  1,477,133 
Foreign-born,   ....     114,610 

Males, 837,840 

Females, 753,909 

In  1890  (U.  S.  census),  .  2,235,523 
Population  to  the  square  mile,  6.1 
Voting  Population,  .  .  .  380,376 

Vote  for  Harrison  (1888),        88,422 

Vote  for  Cleveland  (1888),     234,883 

Net  State  Debt None. 

Assessed  Valuation  of 

Property  (1800),  .  $696,000,000 
Area  (square  miles),  .  .  .  265,780 
U.  S.  Representatives  (in  1893),  13 
Militia  (Disciplined),  .  .  .  2,688 

Counties, 244 

Post-offices, 2,366 

Railroads  (miles),   ....        8,613 

Capital, 

Gross  Yearly  Earnings,  . 
Vessels 229 

Tonnage 9,589 

Manufactures  (yearly),      $20,719,928 

Operatives, I2'J59 

Yearly  Wages,    .     .     .    $3,343,087 
Farm  Land  (in  acres),    .     36,303,, 
Farm-Land  Values,    .      $170,4' 

Farm  Products  (yearly)  $64,204,329 
Public  Schools,  Average 

Daily  Attendance,  .    .     .     340,000 

Newspapers 542 

Latitude,  .  .  25°  51' to  36°  30' N. 
Longitude,  .  93°2~7'  to  io6°4o'  W. 
Temperature,  .  .  .  — 14°  to  103° 
Mean  Temperature  (Austin),  67° 


TEN  CHIEF  CI 
ULATIONS. 

Dallas,     .    . 
San  Antonio, 
Galveston,    . 
Houston, 
Fort  Worth, 
Austin,     .     . 
Waco,       .    . 
Laredo,    .    . 
Denison, 
El  Paso,  .     . 


PIES  AND  THEIR   POP- 
CENSUS  OF  1890.) 

38,067 

37,673 

29,084 

27,55: 


14,575 

14,445 


10,958 
10,338 


812 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 


SAN  ANTONIO  :    THE    ALAMO. 


Kemper,  Gutierrez,  Bean,  Toledo,  Perry,  Long,  Auzy,  and 
Mina,  attended  with  heavy  fighting  and  hideous  massacres. 
Under  these  inflictions,  and  the  attacks  of  the  powerful  In- 
dian tribes,  Texas  became  almost  a  desert,  and  Mexico 
deemed  it  wise  to  invite  immigrants  from  the  United  States. 
After  1820  colonies  of  American  farmers  settled  along  the 
Sabine  and  Colorado,  and  ten  years  later  20,000  of  these 
hardy  adventurers  had  pitched  their  tents  here.  The  flourish- 
ing American  colonies  sent  Gen.  Austin  to  Mexico,  in  1833,  to  ask  that  Texas  might  be  ad- 
mitted as  a  State  of  the  Mexican  Union.  But  Austin  was  thrown  into  prison,  and  troops 
marched  from  Mexico  to  disarm  the  Texans  and  arrest  their  civic  officials.  The  officials  of 
Coahuila  (of  which  Texas  was  a  part  dependency)  also  annoyed  the  spirited  pioneers  in 
many  ways,  and  the  centralizing  policy  of  Santa  Anna  threatened  to  obliterate  the  last 
vestige  of  their  freedom.  The  United  States  had  made  two  attempts  to  buy  Texas,  in  1827 
and  1829,  but  without  success.  At  last,  the  fiery  Southerners  who  had  made  this  land  their 
home  rose  in  armed  revolution,  and  in  1835  overthrew  their  Mexican  tyrants,  inflicting 
serious  defeats  upon  them  at  Gonzales  and  Goliad,  and  storming  San  Antonio.  After  they 
had  all  been  driven  out,  the  Texans  proclaimed  their  country  to  be  a  free  and  independent 
republic.  As  soon  as  possible,  Santa  Anna,  the  President  of  Mexico,  led  7,500  troops 
across  the  Rio  Grande,  and  in  1836  cruelly  massacred  the  surrendered  Texan  command  at 
Goliad.  Marching  upon  San  Antonio,  "the  Napoleon  of  the  West"  bombarded  and 
stormed  the  Alamo,  and  after  a  bitter  fight  (in  which  he  lost  1,500  men)  he  slew  all  its  de- 
fenders, Travis  and  Crockett  and  Bowie,  and  1 70  other  Texan  heroes.  Thermopylae  had  her 
messenger  of  death  :  The  Alamo  had  none.  Gen.  Houston,  a  Fabian  leader,  retreated  far 

into  the  country,  and  when  the  pursuing  army  got 
where  he  wanted  it  to  be,  at  San  Jacinto,  he  annihilated 
it,  and  captured  Santa  Anna.  Mexico  kept  up  a  weary 
warfare  against  Texas  for  years,  and  as  late  as  1842, 
successive  armies  under  Vasquez  and  Woll  captured 
San  Antonio;  and  Gen.  Ampudia  and  the  Yucatan  Regi- 
ment overwhelmed  Fisher's  Texans  at  Mier.  This  de- 
sultory struggle  exhausted  the  credit  of  the  new  repub- 
lic, and  many  of  its  citizens  favored  an  Anglo-French 
protectorate,  to  deliver  it  from  Mexican  hostility  and 
American  annexation.  The  Republic  of  Texas  extended 
from  the  Sabine  to  the  Rio  Grande,  the  present  eastern  Pan-Handle  boundary  reaching  then 
northward  to  the  Arkansas  River,  while  the  western  boundary  (as  claimed)  followed  the 
Rio  Grande  to  its  head,  and  thence  ran  due  north  to  the  Arkansas  Valley.  This  domain 
included  the  greater  part  of  New  Mexico  (all  east  of  the  Rio  Grande),  and  parts  of  Colo- 
rado and  Kansas,  together  with  No  Man's  Land. 

The  independence  of  Texas  was  acknowledged  by  France  (in  1837),  the  United  States 
(in  1839),  Great  Britain  (in  1840),  Holland,  and  other  powers,  whose  ambassadors  resided 


PASO  I    THE   CATHEDRAL 


at  Austin.  After  ten  years  of  national  life,  Texas  joined 
Republic,  on  the  urgent  solicitation  of  President  Tyler,  the 
annexation  being  opposed  by  Clay,  Benton,  Blair  and  Van 
Buren,  and  favored  by  Calhoun,  Jackson  and  Polk,  as  likely 
to  give  the  South  a  great  preponderance  in  Congress. 
Texas  claimed  the  Rio  Grande  as  its  western  boundary, 
and  Mexico  endeavored  to  limit  her  to  the  Nueces.  Gen. 
Taylor  entered  the  disputed  region  with  an  army  of  oc- 
cupation, and  the  Mexican  forces  promptly  attacked  him, 
but  received  serious  defeats  at  Palo  Alto  and  Resaca  de 


American 


6AN  ANTONIO  :     MISSION    CONCEPCION. 


THE  STATE   OF   TEXAS. 


813 


SIERRA    BLANCA  : 
TEXAS    &    PACIFIC    RAILWAY. 


la  Palma,  after  which  Taylor  crossed  the  Rio 
Grande,  stormed  Matamoras  and  Monterey,  and 
won  a  heroic  victory  over  Santa  Anna  at  Buena 
Vista.  Texas  received  $10,000,000  from  the 
United  States  for  the  great  domains  west  and 
north  of  its  present  borders,  and  the  debt  of  the 
Republic  and  the  expenses  of  the  State  for  many 
years  were  paid  therewith.  It  also  received  the 
right  to  divide  into  five  States,  if  future  develop- 
ment should  require  it.  The  imperial  area  of 
public  lands  within  the  State,  Texas  reserved  for  her  own  control  and  disposal.  When  the 
late  civil  war  opened,  the  governor,  Sam  Houston  (formerly  President  of  Texas),  made 
every  effort  to  hold  his  State  firm  in  her  attachment  to  the  Union ;  but  the  people  voted  in 
favor  of  secession,  39,415  to  13,841.  Gen.  Twiggs  surrendered  20  United- States  forts ;  and 
the  garrisons  (2, 500  soldiers)  with  their  arms  were  conveyed  out  of  the  State.  Houston  was 
deposed  from  the  governorship,  and  then  the  State  swung  into  the  Confederate  line.  The 
war  made  little  impress  on  this  imperial  domain,  which  happily  lay  outside  of  its  appalling 
struggles.  The  Federal  fleet  and  army  occupied  Galveston,  October  4,  1862,  but  were 
driven  out  three  months  later,  with  heavy  losses,  and  the  Confederates  held  the  port  until 
the  end  of  the  war.  The  National  fleets  were  twice  repulsed  from  Sabine  Pass,  by  Con- 
federate cotton-clad  steamboats  and  forts,  and  lost  four  gunboats.  In  November,  1862, 
Gen.  Dana  occupied  Brazos  San-- 
tiago  and  Brownsville  with  6,000 
soldiers  from  New  Orleans,  and  the 
whole  coast  except  Galveston  and 
the  Brazos  River  fell  into  the  hands 
of  the  Federal  troops.  These  use- 
less garrisons  were  soon  withdrawn 
(except  at  Brazos  Santiago),  and 

\  ,  ,     i      j      .{_  .,  EL  PASO  :   TEXAS   &    PACIFIC   RAILWAY. 

the  navy  alone  watched  the  silent 

coast.  In  the  remote  southwest  Confederate  troops  aided  Bazaine's  French  forces  against 
the  patriot  Mexicans,  who  in  turn  raided  along  the  Rio-Grande  border,  under  Cortina's  lead. 
The  vast  influx  of  immigrants  and  capital,  and  the  development  of  mines,  cattle-ranges 
and  farms  have  raised  Texas  to  the  proud  position  of  the  'richest  State  in  the  South.  Since 
1880  it  has  far  passed  Kentucky  and  Virginia,  its  nearest  competitors.  A  single  county  in 
the  Pan  Handle,  which  had  but  twelve  families,  now  raises  more  wheat  than  the  entire 
State  did  at  that  time.  The  immigration  has  come  mainly  from  the  older  Southern  States, 
left  prostrate  by  the  civil  war,  and  finding  in  Texas  the  most  promising  outlet  for  the  am- 
bitions of  their  young  men.  Many  thousands  of  Frenchmen,  Poles,  Swedes,  Germans  and 
other  Europeans  have  entered  at  the  port  of  Galveston ;  and  great  numbers  of  Northwestern 
farmers  now  occupy  the  northern  counties.  Texas  hopes  to  outvote  New  York  in  the  Elec- 
toral College,  in  1900.  She  has  a  huge  surplus  in  her 
treasury,  and  owns  large  areas  of  land  besides.  Among 
the  chief  local  questions  are  the  protection  of  wool-grow- 
ing, irrigation  laws,  the  control  of  railways,  and  the  con- 
struction of  a  first-class  deep-water  harbor.  The  State 
always  goes  Democratic,  by  colossal  majorities,  which 
have  reached  above  160,000.  There  are  but  three  Republi- 
cans in  the  Legislature. 

The  Name  of  the  State  commemorates  the  Tejas  or 
Atayos  Indians,  first  mentioned  by  the  survivors  of  Pamfilo 
de  Narvaez's  expedition,  who  traversed  their  country  in  1 536. 


6AN  ANTONIO  !   CITY   HALL. 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 


GRAND  CANON  OF  THE  RIO  GRANDE. 


Padre  Paredes  in  1636  reported  the  Tejas  as  being  near 
the  lower  Brazos ;  La  Harpe  found  them  on  the  Neches, 
in  1719;  and  Scale's  map  shows  the  Tecas  tribe  here  in 
1750.  This  Indian  word  meant  Friends,  and  was  a 
generic  title  in  Mexico,  with  the  Tlaxcal-tecas,  Cholu- 
tecas  and  other  tribes.  Some  ingenious  antiquaries, 
however,  derived  the  title  from  the  Spanish  word  Tejas 
("roof  tiles");  or  from  the  Celtic-Spanish  Tehas 
("plain"),  whence  comes  Dehesa,  the  great  plain  near 
Seville,  and  our  word  dais,  whose  original  meaning  was 
an  elevated  platform.  The  pet  name  of  THE  LONE 
STAR  STATE  refers  to  the  device  on  the  flag  and  seal  of  the  Republic  of  Texas,  which 
was  adopted  to  indicate  the  political  isolation  of  the  Commonwealth.  The  first  Lone- 
Star  flag,  of  white  silk,  with  a  five-pointed  azure  star,  was  presented  in  1835  to  the  Georgia 
Battalion,  then  fighting  for  Texan  liberty.  The  seal  and  arms  of  the  Republic  showed  a 
white  star  surrounded  by  live  oak  and  olive  branches,  on  a  blue  field,  and  is  in  use  by  the 
State  to-day. 

The  Presidents  of  Texas  were  Sam  Houston"  (of  Virginia),  1836-8;  Mirabeau  B. 
Lamar  (of  Georgia),  1838-40 ;  Sam  Houston,  1840-4;  and  Anson  Jones  (of  Massachusetts), 
1844-6.  The  governors  were  James  Pinckney  Henderson,  1846-7;  Geo.  T.  Wood,  1847-9; 
P.  Hansborough  Bell,  1849-53;  Elisha  M.  Pease,  1853-7;  Hardin  R.  Runnels,  1857-9; 
Sam  Houston,  1859-61;  Edward  Clark,  1861;  Frank  R.  Lub- 
bock,  1861-3;  Pendleton  Murrah,  1863-5;  Andrew  J.  Hamilton 
(provisional),  1865-6;  J.  W.  Throckmorton,  1866-7;  Elisha  M. 
Pease  (provisional),  1867-70;  Edmund  J.  Davis,  1870-4;  Rich- 
ard Coke,  1874-6;  R.  B.  Hubbard,  1876-9;  Oran  M.  Roberts, 
1879-83;  John  Ireland,  1883-7;  Lawrence  Sullivan  Ross, 
1887-91  ;  and  James  S.  Hogg,  1891-3. 

Descriptive. —  Texas  covers  an  area  four  times  as  great  as 
New  England,  larger  than  France,  Germany  or  Austria,  and 
equal  to  six  New  Yorks  or  seven  Ohios.  It  is  800  miles  across 
it,  from  Louisiana  and  Arkansas  to  the  Mexican  States  of  Tamaulipas,  Coahuila  and  Chi- 
huahua ;  and  750  miles  from  No  Man's  Land  southward  to  the  Gulf.  The  distance  from 
Texarkana  to  El  Paso  is  about  the  same  as  that  from  New  York  to  Chicago.  If  the  whole 
population  of  the  Republic  were  to  be  transported  to  Texas,  it  would  be  no  more  thickly 
settled  than  Massachusetts  is  now.  The  Pan  Handle  lies  between  the  Indian  Territory  and 
New  Mexico.  In  a  broad  way,  the  State  forms  a  vast  inclined  plain,  falling  away  from  the 
mountains  of  the  northwest  to  the  lowlands  of  the  Gulf. 

The  Gulf  coast  has  a  length  of  375  miles,  with  a  back  country  of  22,000  square  mil< 
very  level,  and  partly  in  forest  and  cactus  chaparral,  partly  in  open  plains.      It  is  cut 
deep  and  navigable  bayous  and  sounds,  and  shallow  lagoons  setting  up  among  the 

and  cotton  lands,   and  guarded,  outside,   by  a  long  chz 
of  low  and  narrow  islands  of  white  sand.     Vast  herds 
cattle  graze  along  the  rich  lowlands  and  plains,  affording 
an    increasing    source   of  revenue.     It  is  a  sombr 
coast  at  night,  for  there  are  but  four  harbors  with 
light-houses,  and  it  is  over  100  miles  from  the  Gal- 
veston  lights  to  the  next  beacon  to  the  westward, 
at  Matagorda,  and  an  equal  space  between  the  Ar- 
ansas   and    Brazos- Santiago    lights.      Sabine    Pass, 
seven  miles  long,  is  the  marsh-bound  outlet  of  the 
SAN  ANTONIO  :  POST-OFFICE.  shallow  Lake  Sabine,  which  covers  nearly  100  square 


DALLAS  I    COURT-HOUSE. 


THE  STATE   OF   TEXAS. 


4'  .- 


DALLAS  I    CITY    HALL. 


miles.  The  General  Government  has  built  jetties  out  three 
miles  into  the  Gulf,  with  the  result  of  deepening  the  water 
in  the  Pass.  Galveston  Bay,  including  the  shallow  East 
Bay,  the  Upper  Bay  and  Galveston  Bay  proper,  covers  455 
square  miles,  and  has  a  bar  four  miles  outside  of  its  en- 
trance, with  only  thirteen  feet  of  water.  The  Government 
is  now  building  parallel  stone  jetties,  each  over  five  miles 
long,  at  a  cost  of  $6,000,000,  with  a  view  to  deepening 
the  channel,  and  admitting  the  largest  vessels  to  the  road- 
stead near  the  city.  Matagorda  Bay,  sixty  miles  by  six  in 
area,  is  fast  shoaling,  and  has  only  seven  feet  of  water  at 
its  entrance.  Aransas-  Bay  and  the  four  connected  bays 
cover  350  square  miles,  and  are  entered  by  Aransas  Pass, 
where  the  Government  is  building  stone  jetties.  The  fine  breezy  climate  and  pictur- 
esque beaches  and  cliffs  of  Corpus  Christi,  and  the  great  commercial  advantages  to  accrue 
when  the  bar  off  Aransas  Pass  has  been  cut  down  have  drawn  public  attention  and  capital 
in  this  direction.  The  Laguna  de  la  Madre  is  ninety  miles  long  and  eight  miles  wide,  and 
its  currentless  waters  undergo  perpetual  evaporation  from  the  hot  southern  sun,  so  that  fish 
die  on  entering  it,  and  the  low  shores  are  covered  with  thick  deposits  of  pure  white  salt. 
This  product  supplies  a  large  part  of  Texas,  and  was  of  especial  value  in  the  old  Confed- 
erate days.  Outside,  the  sand-strip  of  Padre  Island  fronts  the  Gulf  for  100  miles. 

Recently  the  Western  Congressmen  and  statesmen  have  made  a  concerted  effort  to  get 
the  Government  to  construct  a  deep-water  harbor  on  the  Texan  coast,  so  as  to  afford  a 
marine  outlet  for  their  products,  from  500  to  1,000  miles  nearer  than  New  York,  and  thus 
save  $30,000,000  a  year  in  freight  charges.  Galveston  was  the  port  selected  for  develop- 
ment, and  careful  surveys  are  being  made  of  Sabine  Pass,  Aransas  Pass  and  other  possible 
ports,  to  find  other  sites  for  improvement  in  the  interests  of  Western  commerce. 

The  rivers  of  Texas  bear  musical  Castilian  names,  and  several  of  them  are  navigable 
for  200  miles  or  more,  at  high  water.  The  Sabine  forms  part  of  the  eastern  boundary,  and 
may  be  ascended  by  steamboats  247  miles,  to  Hamilton.  The  Neches  empties  into  Sabine 
Lake,  after  an  unnavigable  course  of  350  miles.  Galveston  Bay  receives  the  Trinity  River, 
named  for  three  uniting  forks,  and  550  miles  long,  with  a  trade  carried  on  by  30  schooners 
and  sloops,  ascending  as  far  as  Wallisville.  Many  steamboats  have  visited  Liberty  ;  and  at 
very  high  water  adventurous  captains  have  ascended  even  to  Magnolia,  in  Anderson  County. 
The  Colorado  has  been  traversed  by  steamboats  as  far  up  as  Lagrange.  The  Brazos 


River  is  800 
high  water 
by  the  Gov- 
Matagorda 
Antonio,  re- 
ters  Corpus 


FORT  WQRTH  I   CITY   HALL, 


miles  long ;  navigable  for  49  miles,  to  Bolivar  Landing,  and  in 
for  255  miles,  to  Washington.     Great  sums  have  been  wasted 
ernment   in   attempts   to   create  a   deep   harbor  at  its  mouth. 
Bay  receives  the  Colorado,  900  miles  long,  and  the  limpid  San 
enforced  by  the  clear  and  rapid  Guadaloupe.     The  Nueces  en- 
Christi  Bay.     The  Rio  Grande  forms  the  western  boundary,  from 
El  Paso  down  to  the   Gulf,  and  is  generally  fordable  above 
the  point  where  the  tides  cease  to  flow.       Steamboats  ply 
between  Brownsville  and  Rio-Grande  City,  300  miles,  weekly. 
Most  of  the  rivers  east  of  the  Trinity  are  sluggish  and  muddy, 
and  the  rivers  west  of  the  Brazos  are  clear  and  swift.     The 
running  streams  contain  white  and  yellow  perch,  speckled 
trout,  gaspergoine  and  catfish;  and  the  lakes  have  black  bass, 
cypress  trout  and  raff.     The  fish  of  the  bays  include  pom- 
pano,   sheepshead,  mullet,  buffalo-fish,   redfish,    salt  perch, 
angel-fish,   horse-fish,    and  great  quantities  of  fine  oysters. 
Green  turtles  abound  along  the  Gulf  coast,  and  their  steaks 


8i6 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED    STATES. 


TEXAS   &    PACIFIC    RAILWAY  : 
VIEW   FROM    ROUND-TOP   MOUNTAIN. 


and  eggs,  canned  meat  and  soup  are  exported  to 
all  parts  of  America  and  Europe,  to  the  amount 
of  $1,000,000  a  year.  Chinamen  and  Malays 
catch  and  export  vast  quantities  of  shrimp, 
which  are  sent  away  in  boxes,  barrels  and  cans. 
The  sharks  of  the  Gulf  are  hunted  by  fishermen, 
for  their  skins  and  cartilages. 

Eastern  Texas  lies  east  of  96°,  and  abounds  in 
iron  and  timber,  with  vast  pineries  and  oak  and 
hickory  uplands,  and  belts  of  magnolia  and 
cypress,  beech  and  elm,  covering  45,000  square 
miles.  Here  are  great  areas  of  sugar  and  tobacco  and  semi-tropical  fruits,  and  valuable 
stock-farms.  Northern  Texas  covers  25,000  square  miles,  between  95°  30'  and  100°,  in- 
cluding two  or  three  tiers  of  counties  south  of  the  Red  River,  and  is  rich  in  wheat  and 
cotton.  The  central  region  includes  the  sandy  lignite  measures,  and  the  water-sculptured 
gypsum-beds,  resembling  the  Bad  Lands,  with  miles  of  cedar  and  juniper  chaparral,  besides 
vast  areas  of  valuable  farming  lands,  varied  by  live-oak  and  cypress  islands  and  wooded 
river-bottoms.  The  Cross  Timbers  are  two  belts  of  deep  forest,  of  post  oaks  and  black- 
jack oaks,  each  from  ten  to  15  miles  wide,  and  separated  by  a  rich  prairie  50  miles  wide. 
The  Lower  Cross  Timbers  is  135  miles  long,  running  from  the  Red  River,  near  Gainesville, 
southward  by  Dallas  and  Fort  Worth,  to  Waco,  on  the  Brazos  River.  The  Upper  Cross 
Timbers  covers  less  ground,  and  lies  west  of  Fort  Worth,  running  from  the  Red  River 
north  of  Montague  southward  to  the  Brazos,  with  a  branch 
veering  westward  into  Palo-Pinto  and  Erath  counties. 

The  undulating  zone  of  the  black-waxy  prairies  extends 
across  the  State  inside  of  the  coast  plains,  and  includes 
Denison,  Waco,  Dallas,  Austin,  Sherman  and  San  Antonio, 
its  boundaries  on  the  Rio  Grande  being  Laredo  and  Eagle 
Pass.  The  chief  trees  are  live-oaks,  with  scattering  mes- 
quite-bushes.  This  is  the  most  densely  populated  part  of 
Texas,  with  a  breadth  of  from  30  to  60  miles,  and  a  length 
of  700  miles,  and  an  enduring  soil.  In  this  wonderful  country  corn,  wheat  and  cotton  are 
often  found  in  the  same  field,  thriving  with  equal  vigor. 

Western  Texas,  between  the  Colorado  and  the  Nueces,  covers  50,000  square  miles,  and 
has  200,000  inhabitants.  It  is  an  undulating  and  forestless  table-land,  occupied  by  enor- 
mous cattle  and  sheep  ranches.  Southwestern  Texas  lies  between  the  Nueces  and  the 
Rio  Grande,  up  to  the  Rio  Pecos,  including  30,000  square  miles,  and  90,000  inhabitants. 
Millions  of  cattle  and  sheep  feed  on  its  rich  native  grasses. 

The  Pan  Handle  covers  27,250  square  miles  (or  27  counties),  north  of  Prairie-dog- 
town  River,  with  6,000  square  miles  of  the  fertile  Red-River  basin  in  the  southwest, 
abounding  in  wheat  and  corn,  and  along  the  south  abrupt  and  broken  gypsum  hills, 
rising  above  brackish  streams  and  salt-springs.  Much  of  this  great  plateau  is  in  high 

rolling  prairies  of  deep  black  and  reddish-brown 
loam,  cut  by  the  narrow  valleys  of  many  streams, 
and  carpeted  with  rich  grasses.  The  prairie-fires 
have  prevented  the  growth  of  trees,  except  along 
the  streams.  Land  in  this  region  is  sold  by  the 
State  at  from  $2  to  $3  an  acre,  payable  in  20 
years ;  and  thousands  of  farmers  are  now  settling 
here  to  raise  wheat  and  other  grains,  vegetables 
and  fruits.  The  climate  is  balmy  and  salubrious, 
TEXAS  &  PACIFIC  RAILWAY;  BIO  SPRINGS.  without  malaria  or  consumption  in  the  air,  and 


AUSTIN  :     UNIVERSITY    OF    TEXAS. 


THE  STATE  OF   TEXAS. 


817 


has  a  bracing  coolness,  on  account  of  its 
great  elevation,  which  is  from  2,500  to  4,000 
feet  above  the  sea. 

The  Staked  Plains  (or  Llano  Estacado) 
cover  a  broad  area  of  the  Pan  Handle,  on  the 
west,  south  of  the  Canadian  Rrver,  and  ex- 
tending over  into  New  Mexicor  Here  the 
Great  Plains  come  down  into  Texas,  smooth 
and  woodless,  with  no  surface  water  except 

ponds,  many  of  which  are  salty.  The  light  LUMBER-MILL  ON  LINE  OF  HOUSTON  &  TEXAS  CENTRAL  R.  R. 
and  porous  soil  produces  vast  quantities  of  rich  gramma  grass,  and  large  herds  find  pastur- 
age, getting  abundant  water  from  drilled  wells  and  artificial  reservoirs.  These  great 
steppes  break  off  on  the  east  in  irregular  escarpments.  The  Canadian  River  and  Rio  Pecos 
and  the  head  waters  of  the  Brazos  have  gashed  the  land  with  deep  canons  ;  and  the  Red 
River  rises  in  the  Palo-Duro  Canon,  ten  miles  south  of  Amarillo,  and  flows  for  90  miles 
in  a  rocky  gorge,  filled  with  a  dense  forest  of  red  cedar.  It  is  said  that  the  name  of  this 
vast  plateau  arose  from  the  line  of  poles  or  stakes  fixed  across  it  by  the  Spanish  traders  of 
the  Rio  Grande,  as  a  guide  for  travellers  across  the  unpeopled  wastes,  especially  from  Santa 
Fe  to  the  Red  River  and  to  San  Antonio.  Others  refer  the  name  to  the  stake-like  cacti. 
The  rough  mountains  of  Llano  and  San  Saba  run  off  southward  into  a  broken  region  of  white 
limestone,  Mexican  in  its  bleakness,  tropical  heat  and  loneliness.  On  the  west  stretches  a 

waterless   plain,    from    which   rise 
picturesque  limestone  buttes. 

The  country  between  the  Rio 
Pecos  and  the  Rio  Grande  includes 
eight  large  counties,  made  up  of 
long  mountain  ranges,  with  poorly 
watered  and  thinly  populated  val- 
leys, oftentimes  of  singular  land- 

WACO  :  BAYLOR  UNIVERSITY.  scape  beauty.     Guadalupe  Peak  is 

9,000  feet  high.  The  Limpia  and  Guadalupe  ranges  are  overgrown  with  great  yellow  and 
nut  pines,  amid  which  roam  mule-deer  and  Rocky-mountain  sheep.  Immense  basaltic  cliffs 
look  down  on  lonely  plains  covered  with  wild  grass,  cactus  and  mesquite,  where  scores  of 
rivers,  flashing  down  out  of  the  hills  with  full  currents,  fade  away  and  disappear.  Under  the 
silver- veined  Sierra  Diablo  lies  the  broad  valley  of  the  Salt  Lakes  ;  and  other  great  saline 
pools  lie  near  the  Sierra  Carrizo.  This  wild  mountain-land  between  the  Pecos  and  Rio 
Grande  covers  over  30,000  square  miles,  and  is  nearly  as  large  as  Maine,  Indiana  or  South 
Carolina.  Since  1886  it  has  received  a  large  immigration,  although  agriculture  here  must 
be  carried  on  generally  by  the  aid  of  irrigating  canals. 

The  mineral  waters  of  Texas  are  of  great  variety,  and  have  caused  the  upbuilding  of 
scores  of  health-resorts.  Sour  Lake,  east  of  Houston,  covers  four  acres,  and  contains  sul- 
phur, alum  and  iron,  giving  great  benefit  in  cases  of  rheumatism  and  cutaneous  diseases. 
It  is  used  in  bathing.  The  Piedmont  Springs,  near  Nava- 
sota,  are  mild  sulphur  waters.  The  Sour  Springs,  near 
Luling,  are  rich  in  medicinal  virtue,  especially  for  biliary 
troubles  and  rheumatism.  Sutherland  Springs,  in  Wilson 
County,  include  seltzer,  sour,  iron,  and  black  and  white 
sulphur  waters.  Lampasas  Springs,  60  miles  north  of 
Austin,  have  valuable  white  sulphur  waters,  in  gushing 
fountains.  The  Wooten  Mineral  Wells,  near  Bremond, 

yield  considerable  quantities  of  valuable  waters  for  export.     CUTT|NQ  T|MBER  ON  THE  LINE  OF  THE 
Georgetown  has  springs  like  those  of  Carlsbad,  and  ships      HOUSTON  &  TEXAS  CENTRAL  RAILROAD. 


8i8 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE   UNITED   STATES, 


thousands  of  barrels  yearly.  The  town  is  prettily  situated  on  the  San  Gabriel,  amid  romantic 
scenery.  Boerne  is  in  a  mountain-glen  30  miles  north  of  San  Antonio,  and  800  feet  above 
it,  with  several  hotels  much  visited  by  people  suffering  from  lung  troubles. 

The  Climate  is  remarkably  varied,  and  has  a  wide  range,  from  the  intense  heat  of  the 
coast  and  the  Rio-Grande  Valley  to  the  snowy  winters  of  the  Pan  Handle.  The  mean  an- 
nual rainfall  of  El  Paso  is  nine  inches ;  that  of  Galveston  is  51  inches.  The  mean  tempera- 
ture of  Eagle  Pass  and  Galveston  is  70° ;  of  Fort  Concho,  6jf° ;  of  Denison  and  Fort  Elliott, 
54°  ;  of  Fort  Ringgold,  73.4°  ;  of  Austin  and  El  Paso,  68°.  Inland  from  the  black-prairie 
region  the  rainfall  decreases  to  a  point  inadequate  for  farming.  The  southerly  and  south- 
easterly Gulf  winds  that  blow  continually  across  the  State  alone  make  it  habitable  in  sum- 
mer. A  singular  and  disagreeable  feature  of  the  winters  is  the  norther,  a  bitterly  cold  wind 
from  the  north,  cutting  sharply  through  the  bland  atmosphere,  and  lasting  three  clays 
(and  sometimes  longer).  These  biting  blasts  drive  the  people  into  their  overcoats,  even 
among  the  oleander-groves  of  San  Antonio  and  Corpus  Christi ;  and  bring  great  peril  to 
seamen  on  the  Gulf.  San  Antonio  and  many  other  localities  are  famous  for  their  exemp- 
tion from  pulmonary  and  bronchial  diseases,  and  have  become  favorite  resorts  for  invalids, 
who  find  healing  in  their  gentle  air.  The  Rio-Grande  Valley  and  Western  Texas  have  a 
much  more  torrid  climate,  reaching  its  climax  in  May,  for  half  of 
which  month  the  temperature  holds  above  1 00°,  sometimes  reach- 
ing 1 1 6°.  The  winters  here  are  also  colder  than  on  the  coast. 

Minerals  of  value  are  found  in  many  localities,  and  especially 
in  the  Trans-Pecos  country,  where  there  are  gold-mines  in  Presidio 
County,  and  several  silver-mines  in  the  Quitman  Mountains  and 
the  Sierra  Diablo  and  Sierra  Carrizo.     The  choicest  of  magnetic 
iron  ore  has  been  found  in  Mason  County; 
and  there  are    inexhaustible  deposits  in 
Llano  and  Burnet  Counties,  and  along  the 
Rio  Grande.      Hematite  ores  abound  in 
Eastern  Texas,  where  there  are  smelting- 
works  and  foundries,  especially  at  Rusk, 
New   Birmingham   and   Jefferson.      The 

GALVESTON  BEACH.  bituminous   lignite    of     the  Rio    Grande 

has  a  high  value,  and  is  mined  at  Eagle  Pass  and  San  Tomas.     Light  fibrous  lignites  appear 
along  the  coast  plain  and  the  Rio  Grande,  in  beds  20  feet   thick,  and  covering  great  areas. 
The  Missouri  coal-field  extends  from  the  Red  River  almost  to  Austin,  and  is  mined  at  Gor- 
don, Strawn  and  other  places,  although  rather  slaty  and  sulphurous.     The  copper  deposits 
of  the  Wichita  country  extend  for  many  leagues,  and  have  been  exploited  in  Archer  County. 
There  are  valuable  copper  veins  in  the  Llano  and  Trans-Pecos  districts,  where  lead  is  also 
found.     The  largest  and  purest  deposits  of  massive  gypsum  in  North  America  occur  on  the 
White  Hills,  along  the  headwaters  of  the  Red  River,  above  the  Abilene  country,  covering 
200  miles  square.     The  cement-mills  of  Austin  and  San  Antonio  send  their  products  as  fa 
as   California,  besides  supplying  the  extensive  local  demand.      Salt-mines   are  worked  a 
Colorado  City  and  El  Paso,  and  at  the  Grand  Saline,  100  miles  east  of  Dallas.     There  is 
wonderful  salt  lake  in  Hidalgo  County,  a  mile  across,  which  has  been  for  generations  visite 
by  Mexican  carts ;  and  large  supplies  are  obtained  from  the  lagoons  about  Brownsville  an 
Corpus  Christi. 

The  red  or  pink  granite  of  the  State  Capitol  abounds  in  Burnet  County,  and  variegated 
and  gray  granites  occur  elsewhere.  Marble  is  found  in  coralline,  mahogany,  orange-red 
and  blue  crystalline  varieties,  with  white  marble  in  Burnet,  Travis  and  San  Saba  and  around 
the  beautiful  Marble  Falls  of  the  Colorado.  Sandstone,  yellow  and  gray,  brown  and  black, 
is  largely  quarried  at  Parker,  in  Travis,  and  used  in  the  best  buildings  of  Austin  and  Dallas. 
Petroleum-wells  are  in  operation,  near  Nacogdoches,  yielding  a  heavy  lubricating  oil ;  and 


GALVESTON  I    COTTON  EXCHANGE. 


THE  STATE   OF  TEXAS. 

natural  gas  has  been  developed  in  large  quantities. 
In  the  west  are  far-reaching  caverns,  filled  with 
thousands  of  tons  of  bat-guano.  In  other  locali- 
ties are  found  potter's  clay  and  fire  clay,  kaolin 
and  glass-sand,  and  manganese,  soapstone  and 
lithographic  stone,  mica  and  mineral  paints,  marl 
and  asphaltum,  bismuth  and  antimony. 

Agriculture  is  the  business  of  two  thirds  of 
the  Texan  people.  The  eastern  third  of  the  State, 
with  four  fifths  of  the  population,  is  devoted  to 
farming,  with  sugar  on  the  bottom-lands,  rice 
along  the  coast,  wheat  on  the  black  waxy  prairie,  and  cotton  and  corn  everywhere.  Texas 
is  the  foremost  State  in  cotton,  having  for  ten  years  past  produced  more  than  1,200,000 
bales  yearly,  mainly  on  the  rich  alluvial  lands  between  Denison  and  San  Antonio.  Of 
the  cotton  of  the  world,  the  United  States  produces  three  fourths,  or  7,000,000  bales  a 
year.  The  enormous  Texan  crop  finds  its  way  mainly  to  the  mills  of  Europe  and  New 
England,  and  yields  nearly  $50,000,000  a  year.  The  product  of  cotton-seed  exceeds 
600,000  tons  yearly,  and  employs  many  oil-mills.  Mainly  in  the  north,  5,000,000  bushels 
of  wheat  are  raised  yearly.  It  is  sown  in  the  autumn,  and  harvested  in  May  and  June,  aver- 
aging 20  bushels  to  the  acre,  of  good  weight  and  quality.  This  harvest  provides  but  half 
of  the  wheat  used  in  the  State.  The  corn  crop  has  reached  27,000,000  bushels  in  a  year, 
making  this  the  fifth  American  State  in  its  product.  The  yearly  growth  of  oats  reaches 
18,000,000  bushels,  all  of  which  finds  a  profitable  home-market. 

The  grapes  of  El  Paso,  apples  'and  peaches  of  Eastern  Texas,  and  bananas  of  Browns- 
ville are  worthy  of  praise.  The  crop  of  prairie  hay  is  226,000  tons ;  of  millet,  1 18,000  tons; 
of  sugar-cane,  200,000  tons;  of  hay,  94,000  tons.  Among  other  large  products  are  barley 
and  rye,  tobacco  and  sorghum  molasses.  There  are  over  8, 000,000  acres  under  cultivation, 
in  40,000  farms,  producing  yearly  $100,000,000.  Only  five  per  cent,  of  the  farm-values  are 
under  mortgage,  which  is  the  lowest  ratio  in  the  United  States,  because  homesteads  cannot 
be  mortgaged  in  Texas.  The  sugar-plantations  on  the  Brazos  River  already  produce  yearly 
12,000,000  pounds  of  sugar  and  1,200,000  gallons  of  syrups,  valued  at  $1,500,000,  and  the 
business  is  only  in  its  infancy.  Sorgham  sugar  and  molasses  yields  over  $1,000,000  a  year. 
Two  thirds  of  Texas  are  pastoral,  with  enormous  droves  of  sheep  and  cattle,  confined 
in  league-long  pastures,  or  roaming  free,  needing  only  the  food  and  shelter  supplied  by 
nature.  Texas  has  nearly  5,000,000  sheep,  mainly  west  of  San  Antonio,  kept  in  flocks  of 
from  500  to  2,000  head,  and  securely  penned  at  night,  or  guarded  by  dogs.  They  include 
great  numbers  of  merinos.  Texas  leads  all  the  other  States  in  raising  wool,  reaching  nearly 
25,000,000  pounds  a  year,  valued  at  $5,000,000. 

Most  of  the  timber  lies  in  Eastern  Texas,  between  the  Trinity  and  Sabine  Rivers,  and 
its  cypress,  .yellow  pines,  red  and  white  oaks,  live-oaks,  hickory  and  pecan  are  rafted  down 
the  Trinity  and  Neches,  San  Jacinto  and  Angeline  rivers.  The  pecan-trees  of  southern  and 
western  Texas  yield  yearly  9,000,000  pounds  of  nuts.  Along 
the  western  prairies  occur  extensive  and  fast-increasing  groves 
of  scrubby  mesquite-trees,  furnishing  abundant  fire-wood,  and 
a  bean-like  fruit,  prized  as  food  for  horses  and  cattle.  The 
wild  animals  of  Texas  are  large  gray  wolves,  pumas  and  jaguars, 
bears  and  wildcats,  lynxes  and  foxes,  deer  and  antelope,  raccoons 
and  peccaries,  squirrels  and  hares.  Troops  of  mustangs,  or 
wild  Mexican  horses,  still  browse  in  freedom  along  the  western 
hills. 

Vast  tracts  are  owned  and  for  sale  by  the  Houston  &  Texas 
COURT-HOUSEVAND°POST-OFFICE.      Central    Railway  Company,  in   the    Pan  Handle,  and   in   the 


820 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE   UNITED  STATES. 


COTTON    FIELD. 


estimated  to  yield  yearly 
There  is  a  narrow-gauge 
track  and  three  miles  of 
sugar-house  has  two  differ- 


counties  of  Wilbarger,  Fisher  and  Baylor,  the  prices 
being  from  $3  an  acre  upward,  on  easy  terms  of  pay- 
ment. The  soil  is  a  rich  chocolate  loam,  adapted  to  the 
growth  of  corn  and  cotton,  wheat  and  oats,  fruits  and 
vegetables  ;  and  good  water  is  found  everywhere.  The 
land  is  about  2,000  feet  high,  well  above  the  line  of 
malaria,  and  in  a  genial  climate,  where  outdoor  work 
can  be  carried  on  all  the  year  round.  In  the  old  days 
the  cattle  syndicates  discouraged  settlements  here,  but 

the  advance  of  the  railways  caused  an  irresistible  tide  of  T€XAs  *  PACIFIC  RAILWAY 
immigration  to  flow  in,  and  afforded  the  best  of  facilities  for  this  great  movement  of  the 
people,  and  for  the  shipment  of  their  harvests. 

The  largest  single  sugar  plantation  in  the  United  States  is  Sugar  Land,  in  Texas,  per- 
taining to  Col.  E.  H.  Cunningham,  an  old  Confederate  colonel  of  Hood's  campaigns,  and 
formerly  of  Ellis  &  Cunningham,  the  noted  contractors  for  convict  labor.  It  covers  12,000 
acres  of  sandy  loam,  fully  one  third  of  which  is  within  twelve  feet  of  running  water,  which 

obviates  failure  in  wet  or  f — • ^^n  dry  seasons.      Its    product  is 

6,000,000  pounds  of  sugar, 
railway,  with  nine  miles  of 
portable  track.  The  immense 
'ent  batteries  and  two  vacuum 
pans,  and  a  complete  equip- 
ment in  every  other  way.  It 
is  contemplated  to  augment 
SUGAR  LAND  :  the  resources  of  Sugar  Land 

SUGAR  CRUSHING.          by  establishing  a  Sugar-refinery 

and  a  paper-mill,  favored  by  the  deep  water  along 
the  plantation.  Cultivation  began  here  in  1843, 
and  during  the  half  century  since  no  fertilizers 
have  been  used,  so  rich  and  enduring  is  the  soil. 
The  products  of  Sugar  Land  have  a  high  reputa- 
tion for  their  excellence  in  quality,  and  always  command  a  ready  market. 

Government. — The  Governor  and  executive  officers  are  elected  every  two  years.  The 
legislature  is  made  up  of  31  four-years'  senators  and  105  two-years'  representatives,  and  has 
a  sixty  days'  session,  every  other  year. 

The  State  Capitol,  the  largest  in  America,  and  the  seventh  in  size  among  the  buildings 
of  the  world,  is  a  vast  Greek  cross  of  red  Texan  granite,  with  a  central  rotunda  crowned 
by  a  dome  311  feet  high,  above  which  a  statue  of  the  Goddess  of  Liberty  upholds  a  silver 
star.  This  wonderful  structure  occupies  the  commanding  elevation  at  Austin  originally 
selected  for  the  Capitol  of  the  Republic  of  Texas.  In  the  Capitol  are  preserved  the  treaties 
made  by  Queen  Victoria  and  King  Louis  Philippe  with  the  Texan  Republic,  and  many  other 
historical  relics.  In  1875  Texas  offered  3, 000,000  acres  in  the  Pan  Handle  to  any  one  who 
should  build  her  a  suitable  State  Capitol.  This  offer  was  accepted  by  Chicago  capitalists, 
and  the  edifice  arose  between  1881  and  1888,  hav- 
ing cost  about  $3,500,000.  The  Land  Office  of 
Texas,  at  Austin,  controls  the  complicated  system 
of  public  lands,  and  still  has  the  disposal  of  5,000,- 
ooo  acres  of  the  public  domain.  Texas  was  ad- 
mitted to  the  Union  as  a  State,  without  passing 
through  the  ordeal  of  territorial  government,  and 
never  surrendered  her  right  of  eminent  domain.  The 
National  Government  has  no  public  lands  in  this  CANE  CUTTING  ON  THE  CUNNINGHAM  PLANTATION. 


SUGAR  LAND  :    CUNNINGHAM    PLANTATION. 


THE  STATE   OF   TEXAS. 


821 


AUSTIN  :    STATE  CAPITOL.      BUILT  BY  THE 
CAPITOL    FREEHOLD    AND    INVESTMENT   COMPANY. 


State.  The  Texas  Volunteer  Guard  includes  a  divis- 
ion of  two  brigades,  and  has  occasional  encampments, 
in  conjunction  with  United- States  troops.  The  First 
Regiment  is  from  Galveston,  Houston  and  the  south- 
east ;  the  second  from  Austin,  Brenham  and  Bastrop  ; 
the  third  from  San  Antonio  and  the  southwest ;  the 
fourth  and  fifth  from  Dallas  and  the  northeastern 
cities.  There  is  also  a  cavalry  battalion,  and  a  colored 
infantry  battalion,  each  of  five  companies  ;  and  the 
unattached  Galveston  Artillery.  The  Frontier  Bat- 
talion has  been  reduced  to  three  small  companies  of 
Rangers,  one  each  for  the  Pan  Handle,  the  upper  Colo- 
rado and  the  middle  Rio-Grande  region,  for  the  sup- 
pression of  border  raiders,  train-robbers,  smugglers  and  other  lawless  men.  In  bygone  years 
this  permanent  force  of  State  troops  was  much  larger,  and  found  plenty  of  exciting  work. 

The  State  Penitentiary  has  3,400  convicts,  and  is  nearly  self-supporting,  although  the 
yearly  outlay  exceeds  $1,300,000.  I,ooo  convicts  are  worked  on  farms,  and  500  on  rail- 
roads, under  the  bad  Southern  system  of  contract-labor,  the  gangs  being  under  31  sergeants 
and  300  armed  guards.  Many  of  the  convicts  work  at  the  iron-mines  and  furnaces  at 
Rusk.  The  Insane  Asylum  is  a  great  gray  sandstone  building,  in  a  park  of  noble  live-oaks, 
near  Austin.  It  has  600  inmates.  The  North-Texas  Insane  Asylum,  at  Terrell,  has  400 
inmates.  The  Asylum  for  the  Blind  and  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum  are  at  Austin,  and 
have  valuable  educational  departments.  The  Institution  for  Deaf,  Dumb  and  Blind  Colored 
Youths  is  at  Austin.  The  State  Orphan  Asylum,  at  Corsicana,  contains  200  inmates.  There 
is  a  Reformatory  Institute  for  young  criminals  at  Gatesville,  where  various  useful  indus- 
tries are  taught  to  the  unfortunates,  who  may  thus  be  redeemed  from  lives  of  wrong-doing. 
Education. —  Texas  has  a  princely  school-fund,  in  bonds  and  lands  (estimated  at 
$  loo,  ooo,  ooo),  and  also  school-taxes.  The  free  schools 
keep  open  five  months  in  each  year,  with  equal  ad- 
vantages for  whites  and  blacks.  The  lands  are  now 
being  leased  and  sold  to  settlers  as  the  country  fills  up. 
More  than  a  quarter  of  the  people  above  ten  years 
cannot  read.  The  Sam  Houston  State  Normal  School,, 
at  Huntsville,  gives  tuition  and  books  free,  and  many 
of  the  pupils  are  nearly  supported  by  State  scholar- 
ships. There  are  300  students,  over  17  years  of  age, 
and  pledged  to  teach  in  the  public  schools.  The  Prairie-View  Normal  School,  in  Waller 
County,  is  supported  by  the  State  for  colored  students,  all  the  teachers  also  being  colored. 
Carpentry,  farming  and  dress-making  are  also  taught  here,  and  other  industrial  branches. 
The  Third  Texan  Congress  in  1839  set  apart  for  the  site  of  a  national  University  forty 
acres  of  land  at  Austin,  and  for  two-score  years  this  locality  remained  unoccupied,  and 
bore  the  name  of  College  Hill  In  1876  1,000,000  acres  of  land  were  granted  to  the  Uni- 
versity of  Texas,  which  began  its  sessions  at  Austin,  in  1883. 
It  has  an  endowment  of  nearly  $5,  ooo, ooo  worth  of  land,  includ- 
ing over  2,000,000  acres,  and  its  advantages  are  free  to  all  Texan 
young  men  and  women.  The  scheme  of  education  combines  the 
elective  and  class  systems ;  and  the  graduates  of  24  high  schools 
in  the  State  are  eligible  for  entrance.  The  university  has  a 
large  building,  but  no  dormitories.  There  are  18  instructors 
and  300  students,  including  70  in  the  law  school.  The  Agri- 

TEXAS*  PACIHC  RAILWAY:         Cultural    and    Mechanical    College   of  Texas,    endowed   by  the 
PALO-PINTO  BRIDGE.    National  Congress,  and  opened  in  1876,  has  a  large  domain  and 


GALVESTON  :    BALL  HIGH  SCHOOL. 


822 


HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


SCENE  ON  HOUSTON  &  TEXAS  CENTRAL  R.  R. 


costly  buildings  at  Bryan,  and  is  also  the  site  of  the 
Texas  Experiment  Station.  There  are  12  instructors 
and  200  students.  The  older  Methodist  institutions  of 
Ruterville,  McKenzieand  Wesleyan  Colleges  and  Soule 
University,  founded  between  1840  and  1856,  were  in 
1872  merged  into  Southwestern  University,  at  George- 
town, on  the  plateau  of  the  Colorado  Mountains.  It 
has  1 70  collegiate  and  100  preparatory  students,  and  40 
in  the  ladies'  annex.  Trinity  University  is  an  institution 
of  the  Cumberland  Presbyterians,  on  the  high  hills  of 
Tehuacana,  and  has  loo  students,  with  a  preparatory 
school  of  200,  and  a  theological  school.  Baylor  University,  founded  at  Waco  by  the 
Baptists,  in  1845,  nas  24°  collegiate  and  170  preparatory  students.  The  Texas  Wesleyan 
College  is  at  Fort  Worth :  the  Catholics  own  St.  Mary's  University,  at  Galveston.  The 
Ball  High  School  and  the  Henry  Rosenberg  School,  at  Galveston  are  of  great  efficiency, 
and  have  very  valuable  and  efficient  equipments. 

United-States  Institutions. — San  Antonio  has  been  the  headquarters  of  the  United- 
States  army  in  Texas  since  1848  (except  in  1861-5),  and  here  a  large  part  of  the  troops  in  the 
State  are  massed,  for  better  discipline.  The  Quartermaster's  Depot  is  a  massive  quadrangle 
of  stone  buildings,  covering  eight  acres,  on  the  hills  2^ 
miles  from  the  main  plaza.  A  handsome  stone  lookout 
tower  rises  in  the  centre  of  this  square.  The  soldiers' 
barracks  and  officers'  residences  are  in  the  vicinity. 
The  San- Antonio  Arsenal  covers  20  acres,  and  sup- 
plies ordnance  stores  to  the  National  troops  in 
Texas.  There  are  ten  military  posts  in  Texas,  with 
nearly  2,000  soldiers  in  the  garrisons,  covering  the 
Mexican  and  Indian  frontiers.  The  largest  gar- 
rison (nine  companies  ;  527  men)  is  at  Fort  Clark, 
a  quadrangle  of  barracks  and  officers'  quarters  on  a  high  limestone  ridge,  45  miles  north 
of  Eagle  Pass.  Fort  Hancock,  opposite  San  Ignacia ;  Fort  Concho,  near  San  Angelo  ; 
and  Camp  Pefia  Colorado,  near  Marathon,  are  one-company  posts.  Fort  Bliss,  near  El 
Paso,  and  Fort  Davis,  near  the  Apache  Mountains,  are  two-company  posts.  Fort  Brown 
stands  on  a  reservation  of  358  acres  near  Brownsville,  and  looks  across  the  Rio  Grande  at 
Matamoras.  It  is  a  three-company  post,  on  a  low  and  fertile  prairie  covered  with  chaparral. 
Fort  Ringgold,  at  Rio-Grande  City,  five  miles  north  of  Camargo,  Mexico,  dates  from  1848, 
and  has  three  companies.  Fort  Mclntosh,  a  star-shaped  earthwork  in  a  bend  of  the  Rio 
Grande,  with  sandstone  and  adobe  barracks  and  hospital,  guards  Laredo  and  the  crossing 
of  the  International  Railroad.  Fort  Elliott  is  the  only  garrison  in 
the  Pan  Handle,  and  has  four  companies. 

Chief  Cities. — Galveston  is  the  third  cotton-shipping  port  in 
the  United  States,  handling  700,000  bales  yearly  ;  and  its  jobbing 
sales  exceed  $40,000,000  yearly.      It    stands  among  far-extending 
orange  and  oleander  groves,  on  a  low  island,  whose  noble  beach  of 
over  thirty  miles  in  length  can  hardly  be  surpassed.     The 
streets   are  but  a  few  feet  above  the  sea,  which  has  at 
times  poured  through  them  in  surging  waves.     The  Mai- 
lory  steamships  run  semi-weekly  to  Key  West  and  New 
York  ;  the  Morgan  steamships  leave  weekly  for  Havana 
and  New  York ;  and  another  line  runs  to  Brazos  Santiago 

SAN  ANTONIO  :  ^^  Vera  Cruz.     The  commerce    includes  the  export   of 

QUARTERMASTER'S  DEPOT,  u.  s.  A.         cotton  and  cotton-seed,  wool  and  hides,  tallow  and  lumber. 


HOUSTON  &  TEXAS    CENTRAL    R.    R.  :    A  SUGAR  MILL. 


HOUSTON  : 
HARRIS  COUNTY  COURT  HOUSE. 


HOUSTON  :  MARKET  AND  CITY  HALL. 


THE  STATE   OF   TEXAS. 

Houston,  once  the  capital  of  the  Texan  Republic,  lies  on 
the  narrow  but  navigable  Buffalo  Bayou,  about  50  miles  from 
Galveston.  Great  white  steamboats  and  lines  of  cotton-barges 
pass  continually  between  the  two  cities,  over  the  bayou,  and 
between  almost  endless  groves  of  magnolias.  Houston  is  the 
converging  point  of  a  dozen  important  railways,  with  immense 
machine-shops,  cotton-seed  oil-mills,  car-works  and  docks.  The 
Houston  people  are  called  "mud-turtles  "  by  the  Galvestonians, 
and  retort  by  styling  the  latter  "sand-crabs." 

Houston  may  become  the  mistress  of  an  empire.  It  stands 
at  the  head  of  tide- water,  and  on  an  arm  of  the  sea,  with  13 
concentering  railroads  and  five  more  in  process  of  development.  They  penetrate  cotton- 
fields,  which  now,  although  not  one  tenth  part  developed,  produce  one  fourth  of  the  cot- 
ton of  the  United  States ;  a  pine-lumber  district,  which 
holds  one  fifth  of  the  merchantable  standing  pine  east  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains;  a  sugar  territory  of  10,000,000 
acres,  more  profitably  productive  than  the  famed  sugar- 
lands  of  Louisiana  ;  and  a  corn  country  three  times  larger 
than  the  State  of  Illinois.  These  are  the  staples,  the  growth 
of  which  makes  States  rich  and  their  people  prosperous. 
Cities  are  the  certain  offspring  of  this  productiveness. 

The  United  States  is  naturally  divided  into  three  great 
longitudinal  belts  :  the  Eastern,  bounded  by ' '  the  Father  of 
Waters  ; "  the  Central,  bounded  by  the  Rocky  Mountains ; 
and  the  Western,  bounded  by  the  blue  Pacific.  New  York  is  the  magnificent  offspring  of 
the  Eastern  belt.  San  Francisco  is  the  golden  gate  through  which  flows  the  wealth  of  the 
products  of  the  Western  belt.  Houston  hopes  to  become  the  San  Francisco,  the  New  York, 
of  the  Central  belt,  the  .territory -of  greatest  production  at  least 
cost.  The  tentacles  of  New  York  cannot  longer  hold  the  trade 
of  the  great  producing  West.  Distance  and  competition,  other 
things  being  equal,  must  regulate  freight  rates  and  interior  trans- 
portation. The  same  process  which  built  New  York  into  a  me- 
tropolis may  build  Houston  till  it  shall  be  the  third  largest  city 
in  this  country.  Taking  Kansas  City  as  the  centre  of  the  Cen- 
tral belt,  we  find  that  it  is  460  miles  nearer  Houston  and  an  ocean 
roadway  than  it  is  to  New  York  and  an  ocean  roadway.  A  natural 
roadway  from  the  Central  belt  to  the  Latin-American  countries  HOUSTON  : 

is  by  Houston.     The  wonderful  advantages  of  location  possessed  COTTON  EXCHANGE. 

by  Houston  to-day  will  continue.  On  the  Texas  coast  will  be  at  least  three  deep-water 
ports :  at  Galveston,  50  miles  from  Houston ;  at  the  mouth  of  Brazos  River,  55  miles 
from  Houston;  and  at  Sabine  Pass,  68  miles  from  Houston.  The  merchant,  manufac- 
turer or  broker  at  Houston  will  have  the  choice 
of  these  three  ports  from  which  to  ship. 

Houston,  in  1890,  handled  $20,000,000  worth 
of  the  cotton  crop  of  the  State,  sending  it  aboard 
vessels,  and  out  to  the  markets  of  the  world. 
Along  with  it  have  gone  3,250,000  gallons  of 
cotton    oil,    60,000,000    pounds    of    cotton-oil 
cake,  12,000,000  pounds  of  sugar,  and  1,200,- 
ooo  gallons  of  syrup.     The  Magnolia  City  handles 
^S  directly  and  indirectly  a  yearly  trade  of  750,000,- 
HOUSTON  :  MAIN  STREET.  OOO  feet  of  lumber  and  100,000,000  shingles. 


824 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES, 


Houston  is  a  beautiful  and  healthful  city,  with  a  climate  possessed  of  every  charm  of 
tropical    countries  without  their  excessive  heat.      Flowers,  fruits  and  vegetables  grow  in 
mid-winter ;  and  wheat,  corn  and  cotton  in  mid-summer. 

Austin  stands  in  an  amphitheatrical  valley  on  the  Colorado 
River,  within  view  of  the  blue  Colorado  Mountains,  and  has 
several  important  State  institutions  crowning  its  hills.  It  is 
built  of  light-colored  brick  and  cream-colored  limestone,  and 
presents  a  cheerful  and  Parisian  appearance,  befitting  its  rank 
as  a  centre  of  Texan  wealth,  culture  and  education.  Dallas 
lies  on  the  turbid  and  tortuous  Trinity  River,  amid  rich  undu- 
HOUSTON  :  POST-OFFICE.  lating  prairies,  and  is  the  commercial  capital  of  northern  Texas, 

and  the  railway  and  trade  centre  of  a  region  of  1,000,000  people,  producing  vast  quantities 
of  cotton,  corn  and  wheat.  It  is  the  second  largest  market  for  agricultural  implements  in 
America,  and  has  a  general  trade  of  $25,000,000  yearly.  Dallas  has  120  factories,  with 
a  capital  of  $2,700,000,  and  an  output  of  $3,700,000.  At  this  favorable  point  the  Santa- 
Fe,  Southern  Pacific  and  Missouri  Pacific  railway  systems  intersect ;  and  here  are  the  main 
offices  of  the  Texas  &  Pacific  Railroad. 

One  of  the  modern  achievements  of  Texas  is  the  town  of  Oak  Cliff,  which  has  been 
called  the  Brooklyn  of  Dallas,  and  occupies  the  oak-crowned  green  bluffs  200  feet  above 
that  city  and  about  three  miles  from  its  busy  streets.  Early  in  1888  T.  L.  Marsalis,  presi- 
dent of  the  Dallas  Land  &  Loan  Company,  bought  2,000  acres  of  open  country  on  this 
site,  and  built  an  elevated  railway  to  it  and  a  belt-line 
around  it,  running  just  below  the  cliffs,  amid  pleasant 
and  attractive  landscapes.  He  then  farther  equipped  the 
prospective  town  with  $75,000  water-works,  many  miles 
of  graded  streets,  and  a  park  of  125  acres,  with  an  artifi- 
cial lake,  and  a  casino  and  summer-theatre.  The  primeval 
forest  has  been  replaced  by  a  model  city  of  many  thou- 
sands of  inhabitants,  with  30  miles  of  streets,  lined 
with  20,000  fancy  trees,  planted  to  contrast  pleasantly 
with  the  selected  and  saved  woodland  trees.  There  are 
more  than  1,500  comfortable  houses,  and  many  handsome 
stores,  with  churches  and  schools  on  every  side,  and  the  Oak-Cliff  Female  University,  which 
aims  to  be  the  Vassar  of  the  South.  The  citizens  of  Dallas  show  a  great  pride  in  this 
ideal  suburb,  with  its  high  and  healthy  locality,  wise  plan,  and  valuable  public  institutions. 
The  rapid  advance  of  Dallas  to  the  place  of  the  metropolis  of  Texas  has  therefore  been  at- 
tended by  a  corresponding  development  in  Oak  Cliff,  which  in  the  brief  space  of  three 
years  has  become  a  pleasant  and  attractive  residence-city.  The  success  attending  Mr.  Mar- 
salis's  plan  of  founding  Oak  Cliff  has  given  rise  to  many  similar  undertakings  in  the  South 
and  West,  building  up  many  a  charming  and  prosperous  suburban  town. 

Fort  Worth,  on  the  Trinity  River,  near  the  northern  edge  of  the  cotton  belt,  and  in  the 
centre  of  the  corn  belt,  abounds  in  artesian  wells,  grain-elevators,  flour-mills,  stock-yards, 
great  railway  repair-shops  and  many  other  important  indus- 
tries. This  is  the  headquarters  of  the  Pan-Handle  stockmen. 
As  recently  as  1879  Fort  Worth  was  the  terminus  of  the  longest 
stage-route  in  the  world,  reaching  to  Yuma,  1, 600  miles  west- 
ward, and  traversed  by  the  mail-stages  in  13  days.  Denison  is 
the  chief  trading-point  for  much  of  the  Indian  Territory,  and 
an  important  railway  junction,  in  a  rich  corn  and  cotton  coun- 
try. It  was  founded  in  1872,  and  has  been  largely  advanced 
by  New-England  capital,  invested  in  manufactories  and  lantl- 
OAK  CLIFF  :  OAK-CLIFF  HOTEL.  schemes.  Waco,  on  the  Brazos  River,  is  a  solidly  built  and 


OAK  CLIFF  :    OAK-CLIFF  UNIVERSITY. 


THE  STATE   OF    TEXAS. 

prosperous-  manufacturing  city,  growing  apace,  both  in  popu- 
lation and  valuation.  San  Antonio,  the  cradle  of  Texan 
liberty,  is  on  the  winding  San  Antonio  and  San  Pedro  Rivers, 
with  its  broad  plazas  overarched  by  fine  old  trees  and  bord- 
ered by  shops.  The  architecture  is  solid  and  ponderous,  with 
an  evident  Spanish  feeling ;  and  the  venerable  Alamo,  the 
property  of  the  State  of  Texas,  represents  the  old  missions 
and  the  War  of  Independence.  This  city  is  the  foremost 
wool-market  of  Texas,  gathering  in  nearly  half  the  wool-clip 
of  the  State,  amounting,  in  prosperous  years,  to  25,000,000 
pounds.  San  Antonio  is  the  largest  American  market  for 
horses  and  mules,  mainly  cheap  animals  from  interior  EL  PA8° :  INTERNATIONAL  BRIDGE. 
Mexico  and  the  Rio-Grande  ranches,  and  wild  stock.  Fully  75,000  head  are  shipped 
by  rail  yearly,  chiefly  to  the  cotton-planters  and  negro  renters  of  the  eastern  Gulf 
States.  Great  quantities  of  hides  and  grain  are  handled  here,  and  the  city  has  a  lucrative 
trade  with  Mexico.  In  the  Mexican  quarters  of  Laredito  and  Chihuahua,  the  visitor  may 
study  the  manners  and  customs  of  Vera  Cruz  and  Monterey  and  Acapulco,  with  their  mar- 
kets and  shops,  cafes  and  churches.  Alarconne  founded  Bexar  (now  San  Antonio)  in  1718. 
The  first  colony  in  the  State  was  established  on  the  San-Antonio  River  by  the  Marquis  de 
Casa  Fuerte,  and  consisted  of  16  families  from  the  Canary  Islands.  The  first  Americans 
ever  seen  in  San  Antonio  were  Philip  Nolan's  men,  captured  by  the  Spaniards  on  the  Te- 
huacana  Hills  in  1800.  El  Paso,  on  the  Rio  Grande,  was  a  petty  border-hamlet  of  200 
people  in  1870,  but  has  since  become  an  important  manufacturing  city,  with  large  imports 
of  silver  ore,  for  the  local  smelters,  and  live-stock  for  the  refrigerating  company.  It  is 
about  equally  distant  (1,200  miles)  from  St.  Louis,  New  Orleans  and  Mexico  ;  and  here, 
at  the  famous  old  "  Pass  of  the  North,"  3,800  feet  above  the  sea,  the  Mexican  Central  Rail- 
way crosses  the  Rio  Grande.  Laredo,  the  great  railway  centre  of  the  Southwest,  has  im- 
portant manufactories,  and  the  immense  car-works  and  machine-shops  of  the  Mexican 
National  Railroad,  employing  1,000  men.  A  steel  bridge  crosses  the  Rio  Grande  to  the 
Mexican  town  of  Nuevo  Laredo,  and  is  traversed  by  electric  cars. 

A  large  number  of  cities  before  many  years  will  grow  up  in  the  Pan- Handle  region.  Over 
3,000,000  acres  in  this  region  are  owned  by  one  great  corporation  —  the  Capitol  Freehold  & 
Investment  Company,  Limited.  This  vast  domain,  prpbably  the  largest  single  holding  of 
property  in  the  United  States,  was  granted  to  the  Farwells  of  Chicago  and  Abner  Taylor 
as  payment  for  building  the  Texas  State  Capitol,  which  is  one  of  the  noblest  public  edifices 
in  the  United  States.  The  lands  are  well  adapted  for  agriculture,  and  late  years  have 
demonstrated  that  the  Pan- Handle  district  is  among  the  best  for  this  purpose  of  any  in  that 
\  wonderful  State.  The  company  controls  the  lands,  and  has  1 50,  - 

ooo  head  of  cattle  on  them  at  present,  but  the  intention  is  to  sell 
them  to  actual  settlers  as  fast  as  that  can  be  done.  The  Fort-Worth 
&  Denver  Railway  traverses  the  lands,  and  three  other  roads  must 
necessarily  soon  extend  through  them.  Several  prosperous  towns 
are  springing  up  on  the  line  of  the  Fort-Worth  &  Denver  route,  and 
along  the  projected  lines  of  the  other  roads;  and  this  district  will 
in  a  few  years  be  a  populous  stock,  fruit,  and  agricultural  coun- 
try. The  altitude  of  the  land  varies  from  2,000  to  4,000  feet,  and 
the  climate  is  very  salubrious,  and  equal  to  any  in  California  or 
Colorado.  The  Capitol  Freehold  Land  &  Investment  Company, 
Limited,  is  stocked  for  $10,000,000,  John  V.  and  Charles  B.  Far- 
well  and  Abner  Taylor  owning  a  large  majority  of  the  shares.  Its 
•  American  office  is  at  Chicago,  and  it  has  also  an  office  in  London, 
for  its  larSe  and  Promising  European  business. 


826 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE   UNITED  STATES. 


THE 

DALLA 


Newspapers  are  published  in  all  parts  of  the  State.  Among  them  are  nearly  a  score 
in  the  German  language,  half  a  dozen  in  Bohemian,  and  several  Spanish  papers.  The 
Galveston  News  was  founded  in  1842  by  Willard  Richardson,  whose  voluminous  and  faithful 

Texas  Almanac  has  at  once  chronicled  and  aided  the  growth 
of  the  State  for  many  years.  In  1865,  Col.  A.  H.  Belo,  a  Con- 
federate veteran  officer,  rode  on  horseback  all  the  way  from 
Virginia  to  Galveston,  after  the  surrender  at  Appomatox,  and 
became  associated  with  Mr.  Richardson,  whose  entire  in- 
terest in  the  paper  he  afterwards  acquired.  With  the  aid 
of  Messrs.  Jenkins  and  Lowe,  he  developed  the  News  prop- 
erty in  many  ways,  with  new  presses,  special  trains,  and 
perfect  system  for  collecting  news,  until  this  became  the 
foremost  newspaper  of  the  far  Southwest.  In  1 88 1,  Col. 
Belo  secured  a  charter  for  a  company  to  publish  papers  in 
Galveston  and  wherever  else  in  Texas  it  might  wish  to ;  and 
forthwith  established  another  News  in  Dallas,  315  miles 
from  Galveston,  with  a  fully  equipped  plant,  and  an  able 
corps  of  editors  and  reporters.  The  two  offices  are  joined 
by  telegraph;  and  perfectly  represent  and  serve  their  respec- 
THE  GALVESTON  NEWS.  tjve  sectionS)  besides  serving  their  constituencies  with  the 
best  discussions  of  State,  National  and  foreign  affairs.  Thus  two  great  daily  papers  more 
than  a  hundred  leagues  apart  are  successfully  conducted  by  one  company,  to  the  great  ad- 
vantage of  the  State ;  and  the  swift  daily  trains  running  from  Galveston  to  Houston  and 
connecting  points  to  distribute  the  Galveston  News,  are  matched  in  Northern  Texas  by  the 
Dallas  News' s  special  trains  to  Sherman,  Denison,  Fort  Worth  and  other  thriving  cities. 

The  Finances  of  Texas  are  upon  a  very  favorable  basis, 
on  account  of  the  enormous  areas  of  land  owned  by  its  gov- 
ernment, and  which  are  continually  increasing  in  value,  as 
the  State  grows  more  thickly  settled.  The  most  prominent 
of  the  private  banking-houses  of  Galveston,  and  indeed  the 
most  important  in  the  Southwest,  is  Ball,  Hutchings  &  Co., 
at  the  corner  of  Strand  and  24th  Streets.  This  house  has 
large  transactions  with  many  of  the  incorporated  banks  of 
the  country,  and  it  carries  the  name  of  Galveston  to  many 
remote  places.  It  has  a  connection  with  the  well-known 
house  of  Brown,  Shipley  &  Co.,  in  London.  The  surviving 
partners  of  the  original  firm  are  J.  H.  Hutchings  and  George 
Sealy,  both  names  well  known  in  Texas.  Both  are  prominently  identified  with  many  of  the 
important  enterprises  of  the  city.  Mr.  Hutchings  is  president  of  the  "Galveston  City 
Company,"  which  laid  the  foundations  for  the  municipality  of 
Galveston,  50  years  ago,  and  from  which  all  the  land  titles  of 
the  city  originate.  He  has  also  been  president  of  the  Galveston 
Wharf  Company,  which  controls  the  water  front.  Mr.  Sealy  is 
interested  in  railroad  enterprises,  and  was  the  chief  promoter 
and  for  a  long  time  president  of  the  Gulf,  Colorado  &  Santa-Fe 
Railway,  the  sale  of  which  to  the  Atchison,  Topeka  &  Santa-Fe 
Company  was  made  by  him.  He  is  a  director  in  the  Cotton  Ex- 
change, and  has  other  important  interests.  The  transactions  of 
the  bank  aggregate  $90,000,000  annually.  For  nearly  40  years 
Ball,  Hutchings  &  Co.  have  lent  substantial  pecuniary  help  to  all 
f!!r*  Southern  enterprises,  railroads,  shipping,  commercial  and  indus- 
GALVESTON:  TAYLOR  COMPRESS  co.  trial,  and  they  have  fairly  earned  the  preeminence  they  enjoy. 


GALVESTON  I    BALL,   HUTCHINGS    &    CO. 


DALLAS  I    CITY    NATIONAL    BANK. 


THE  STATE  OF  TEXAS. 

The  oldest  financial  institution  in  Dallas  is  the  City 
National  Bank,  which  received  its  charter  from  the  State  in 
1873,  as  tne  City  Bank.  Seven  years  later  it  was  nationalized ; 
and  in  1886  it  absorbed,  by  a  consolidation,  the  Dallas  Na- 
tional Bank.  Its  career  has  been  successful  throughout,  and 
its  volume  of  business  continually  on  the  increase,  until  now 
it  has  the  largest  dealings,  in  all  its  departments,  of  any 
chartered  bank  in  the  Lone-Star  State.  The  capital  is  $325,- 
ooo;  the  surplus  $150,000;  .the  undivided  net  profits, 
$27,000;  the  deposits,  $1,800,000;  and  the  totals  above 
$2,300,000.  Its  exchange  drawings  for  a  single  year  have  exceeded  $16,000,000;  and  the 
stock  is  quoted  at  above  $200  a  share.  This  strong  bulwark  of  Texan  finance  is  managed 
with  conservatism,  and  has  the  confidence  of  everyone,  locally  and  abroad ;  and  much  of  the 
development  of  Dallas  may  rightfully  be  attributed  to  the  influences  proceeding  from  this 
powerful  and  sagacious  bank.  J.  C.  O'Connor  is  president ;  and  E.  M.  Reardon  is  cashier. 

Railroads  were  liberally  subsidized  by  the  State,  with  its  public  lands ;  and  when  the 
civil  war  broke  out,  Texas  had  400  miles  of  track  in  operation  :  from  Indianola  to  Lavaca  ; 
Houston  to  Galveston,  Columbia  and  Millican  ;  Hempstead  to  Brenham ;  Harrisburg  to  the 
Colorado  River;  and  other  lines.  The  old  San-Antonio  Road  lay  in  an  air-line  from 
Nacogdoches  to  San  Antonio,  and  was  traversed  for  200  years  by  Spanish  and  French 
smugglers,  military  forces,  and  traders'  caravans,  being  the  most  celebrated  road  in  the 
Southwest.  In  the  north  the  famous  Santa-Fe  Trail  crossed  the  Pan-Handle,  on  its  way  be- 
tween Missouri  and  New  Mexico.  The  old  overland  mail-stage  route  ran  from  San  Antonio 
to  El  Paso,  652  miles,  and  thence  for  824  miles  across  New  Mexico,  Arizona  and  California 
to  San  Diego.  The  1,476  miles  were  made  in  from  23  to  28  days,  in  comfortable  stages 
drawn  by  five  mules,  and  leaving  San  Antonio  fortnightly.  Through  tickets  cost  $200, 
including  food  on  the  way.  The  line  followed  very  closely  the  present  route  of  the  Southern 
Pacific  Railroad,  and  the  stages  rah  from  August,  1857,  until  the  war. 

The  Texas  &  Pacific  Railway  is  the  great  trunk  line,  connecting  the  seaport  towns  of  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico  with  those  of  the  Pacific  Ocean.  It  operates  1,500  miles  of  track,  extending 
from  New  Orleans  westward  to  El  Paso,  on  the  Rio  Grande,  connecting  further  at  Tex- 
arkana  with  the  railway  system  of  the  Mississippi  Valley;  at  Shreveport,  La.,  with  the  net- 
work of  railways  extending  to  the  South-Atlantic  coast ;  at  Fort  Worth,  with  the  lines 
extending  to  the  Northwest,  Colorado,  Kansas  and  Nebraska ;  at  El  Paso,  with  the  lines 
running  down  to  the  city  of  Mexico  and  the  various  Mexican  seaports,  and  with  other  lines 
extending  to  the  Pacific  Coast.  It  is  a  favorite  Pullman- car  route  from  St.  Louis  or  New 
Orleans  to  San  Francisco  or  Mexico,  and  to  the  tourist  offers  a  magnificent  array  of 
varied  and  picturesque  scenery.  This  route  traverses 
the  lowlands  of  Louisiana,  a  few  feet  above  sea 
level,  the  heavy  pine-forests  of  eastern  Texas,  the 
blackland  prairies  of  middle  Texas,  the  high  plateau 
of  western  Texas,  and  the  mountain-district  in  the  ex- 
treme west,  at  an  altitude  of  5,000  feet;  and  passes 
through  the  prosperous  cities  and  towns  of  New  Or- 
leans, Shreveport,  Texarkana,  Marshall,  Paris,  Sher- 
man, Dallas,  Fort  Worth,  Abilene,  Colorado,  Pecos 
and  El  Paso.  This  railway  company  also  operates  a 
steamboat  line  on  Red  River,  between  Alexandria, 
La.,  and  Shreveport,  about  300  miles. 

The  Houston  &  Texas  Central  Railroad  Company  was  the  outgrowth  of  the  enterprise 
of  the  sagacious  minds  of  the  city  of  Houston.  Construction  commenced  in  1853.  It  had 
progressed  80  miles  into  the  interior  when  the  war  put  a  stop  to  all  railway  building  in 


TEXAS    &    PACIFIC   RAILWAY  : 
FORT  WORTH  :    COTTON  PLATFORM. 


828 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


HOUSTON  I  HOUSTON  &  TEXAS  CENTRAL  RAILROAD  DEPOT. 


Texas.  Active  extension  was  resumed  in 
1867,  and  the  road  was  completed  to  Red 
River  in  1 873.  The  western  branch  reached 
Austin  in  1871,  and  the  northwestern  divis- 
ion reached  Ross  in  1876.  Construction 
in  those  days  was  expensive;  equipment 
and  labor  were  high,  and  Southern  securi- 
ties were  at  a  discount,  and  as  a  result 
debt  got  ahead  of  the  resources.  It  succumbed  in  1885  to  financial  pressure  and  loss  of  earn- 
ings, mainly  owing  to  the  bad  cotton  crops  of  several  years  previous,  and  passed  into  the 
hands  of  the  receivers  appointed  by  the  United- States  Court.  The  mortgages  have  been  pur- 
chased by  and  the  property  sold  to  the  Houston  &  Texas  Central  Railroad  Company.  Al- 
though since  the  Houston  &  Texas  Central  was  completed  in  1876  a  number  of  new  lines 
have  been  constructed,  affecting  the  territory  from  which  its  main  business  comes,  its  ad- 
vantageous position  continues  to  assert  itself.  In  1876  it  carried  336,000  bales  of  the  cotton 
crop  of  Texas ;  in  1889  it  carried  422,500  bales.  This  pioneer  Texan  line  takes  the  traveler 
not  only  through  the  finest  agricultural  regions  of  Texas,  but  to  and  through  many  cities, 
such  as  Houston,  Corsicana,  Dallas,  Sherman,  Denison,  Waco,  Austin,  Bryan,  and  Hemp- 
stead.  These  thriving  interior  cities  show  the  rapid  advancement  of  Texas  in  line  of  mate- 
rial progress,  while  Galveston,  the  leading  commercial  entrepot  of  Texas,  is  in.  easy  reach 
of  Houston  by  rail  or  water;  and  San  Antonio,  with  its  historic  reminiscences  and  latter- 
day  progress,  lies  but  70  miles  west  of  the  line.  Operated  in  harmony  with  the  Houston  & 
Texas  Central  Railroad,  is  the  Texas  Central  Railway,  running  northwest  from  Waco  to 
Albany,  at  the  foot  of  the  Great  Plains,  a  distance  of  176  miles,  through  a  picturesque 
region  largely  given  to  pastoral  pursuits.  Its  northeastern  branch  runs  from  Garrett,  on  the 
Houston  &  Texas  Central,  through  the  great  agricultural  counties  of  Ellis  and  Kaufman,  to 
Roberts ;  also  the  Central  Texas  &  Northwestern  Railway  and  the  Fort-Worth  &  New- 
Orleans  Railway,  which  connect  the  main  line  with  the  prosperous  city  of  Fort  Worth,  53 
miles  distant,  via  the  important  town  of  Waxahacohie,  and  are  the  connecting  links  betwet 
the  route  of  the  Union  Pacific  from  Denver  to  Fort  Worth,  and  thence  to  Houston 
New  Orleans.  This  railway  is  one  of  the  foremost  trunk  routes  of  the  Lone- Star  State. 

Cattle-Raising. — Texas  raises  one  seventl 
of  the  beef  of  the  Republic,  sending  enormoi 
quantities  to  the  North  every  year.     The  cattk 
exceed  4,000,000  in  number,  for  the  greater  par 
long-horns.      Texas    also   has   2,000,000   swine 
The  horses  and  mules  number  more  than  1,000, - 
ooo.     The  largest  cattle  ranche  owned  by  a  sin- 
gle individual  in  the  United  States  is  the  famoi 
Santa    Gertrudes,    founded    by    Capt.    Richarc 
KING'S  SANTA  GERTRUDES  RANCHE  :   THE  PADDOCK.    King,  in  1853,  and  now  belonging  to  his  widow, 


Mrs.  H.  M.  King,  and  managed  by  his  son-in-law, 
Robert  J.  Kleberg.  Forty  miles  southwest  of 
Corpus  Christi  in  Nueces  and  Cameron  counties 
are  the  700,000  acres  of  this  private  principality, 
fronting  on  the  bay  for  40  miles,  and  enclosed 
elsewhere  by  over  300  miles  of  wire-fence.  The 
herds  include  over  100,000  head  of  cattle,  mostly 
improved  by  short-horns;  and  there  are  also  3,000 
brood-mares,  which  are  bred  largely  to  the  French 
Percherons.  The  laborers  of  the  estate  number 
200  fearless  cow-boys,  for  whose  use  there  are 


KING'S  SANTA  GERTRUDES  RANCHE  :   THE  STABLES. 


THE  STATE   OF   TEXAS. 


829 


1,200  saddle-horses,  besides  many  farmers,  who 
by  the  use  of  improved  implements  cultivate  and 
produce  the  large  amount  of  grain  and  other  pro- 
ducts consumed  upon  the  ranche.  Capt.  King 
founded  the  first  large  ranche  in  the  Southwest, 
and,  having  no  other  to  model  by,  he  had  to  de- 
vise his  own  plan  and  equipment,  and  so  be- 
came truly  the  pioneer  of  an  industry  which  has 
since  grown  into  such  immense  proportions  and 
importance. 

A  typical  Texas  cattle-ranche  is  that  of  the 
Matador  Land  &  Cattle  Company,  Limited,  which 
was  organized  in  Scotland  in  1882,  under  the  laws  of  Great  Britain,  and  has  a  paid-in  capi- 
tal of  $2,500,000  (^"500,000),  and  a  surplus  reserve  of  $100,000.  This  wealthy  cor- 

and  leases  300,000 
and  Cottle,  Dickens 
herds  number  100,- 
graded  with  Here- 
of first  quality  and 
dred  cowboys  take 
which  150,000  cat- 
dor  has  been  one  of 
raising  companies, 


SANTA  GERTRUDES     RANCHE  : 
MRS.    H.    M.    KING'S   RESIDENCE. 


MATADOR  RANCHE: 

COWBOYS. 


MATADOR   RANCHE  '.    CATTLE  ON  THE  PLAINS. 


poration  owns  450,000  acres 

acres  more,  mainly  in  Motley 

and   Floyd   counties.     Their 

ooo    cattle,     well-bred    and 

ford   and    Shorthorn    stock, 

immense    value.     One    hun- 

care  of  these  vast  herds,  from 

tie  have  been  sold.  TheMata- 

the  most  successful  of  cattle- 
having     held     its     position 

throughout  the  long  period  of 

depression  in  the  business,  and  paying  handsome 

dividends.      In  due  time  its  imperial  domains  will 

be  subdivided  into  stock  and  grain  farms,  having 

a  fertile  soil  and  ready  access   to  markets.     Ex- 
perimental farms  and  vineyards  have  already  been 

established  by  the  company,  to  help  in  this  con- 
summation.    The  post-office  is  Matador,  Motley 

County,  Texas,  and  the  properties  are  in  the  Pan-Handle  region,  which  is  now  being  rapidly 

settled  up  by  a  fine  class  of  farmers. 

Lumber. — Sabine  Pass  is  the  export-route  of  the  Texas  Tram  &  Lumber  Company,  of 

Beaumont,  whose  dealings  in  long-leaf  yellow  pine  in  many  forms  are  of  vast  extent.   Their 

saw-mills  have  a  yearly  capacity  of  50,000,000  feet,  and  their  planing-mills  have  a  capacity 

of 45,000, ooo  feet;  and  700  men  are  employed. 
The  resources  exceed  $1,000,000.  The  company 
owns  many  leagues  of  pineries,  in  Jasper  and  New- 
ton, Tyler  and  Hardin  counties,  and  has  25  miles 
of  well-equipped  steel  railway,  upon  which  to 
carry  the  logs  to  the  mills.  It  has  built  up  a  very 
valuable  foreign  trade,  exporting  rough  and  dressed 
lumber,  railway  bridge-timbers  and  cross-ties,  car 
siding  and  decking,  to  many  distant  ports.  The 
company  was  founded  in  1881,  and  has  made  rapid 
and  successful  progress,  in  wealth,  facilities  for 
shipment,  system  of  grading  and  quality  of  lumber. 

The  yellow-pine  lumber  of  the  Texas  Tram  &  Lumber  Company  is  of  the  best  and  most 

valuable  quality  ;  and  yet  the  facilities  for  manufacture  and  shipment  are  so  perfect  that  it  is 

sold  at  prices  which  make  competition  very  difficult. 


TEXAS  TRAM  &  LUMBER  COMPANY:    LOADING  TIMBER. 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE   UNITED   STATES. 


830 

Another  immense  and 
business  was  founded  in  1877 
southeastern  Texas,  by 
formerly  in  the  same  industry 


BEAUMONT  :    TEXAS    TRAM  &  LUMBER  CO. 


notable  lumber 
at  Orange,  in 
Lutcher&  Moore, 
at  Williamsport 
(Penn.).  By  in- 
troducing the 
Northern  boom 
system  on  the  Sa- 
bine  River,  they 
make  it  easy  to 

bring  down  600,000  feet  of  logs  daily,  and  so 
to  supply  their  Star  and  Crescent  Mills.  The 
company  owns  its  mills,  employing  325  men ;  a 
factory  making  100,000  shingles  daily  ;  240,000 
""  acres  of  Calcasieu  pine-lands ;  20,000  acres  of 
Louisiana  cypress  ;  35  miles  of  railway,  with 

three  locomotives  and  80  cars ;  several  vessels  for  shipping  lumber ;  seven  saw-mills,  along 

the  Southern   Pacific  line ;   and  lumber-yards  in  all 

parts  of  Texas.     The  shipments  for   1890  reached 

the  unexampled  quantity  of  100,000,000  feet,  supply- 
ing Texas  and  Colorado,  Kansas  and  Nebraska,  and 

Old  and  New  Mexico.     The 

demand  is  so  large  that  the 

mills  have  to  be  run  night 

and  day,  and  the  white  glare 

of  the  electric  lights  over- 
flows their  vicinity  from  sun- 
The  Manufactories  of 

3,000,      employing      20,000 

000,000  of  capital  invested. 

$40,000,000  worth  of  goods, 

worth  of  materials.    The  use 

is  due  to  the  need  of  pressing 

density,   so  that  ships  may 

and  offer  cheaper  freights. 


ORANGE  :     THE    LUTCHER    &    MOORE    LUMBER    COM- 
PANY'S   STAR    AND    CRESCENT    MILLS. 


RAILROADING  TIMBER. 

down  to  sunrise. 
Texas  number  over 
persons,  with  $24,- 
They  make  yearly 
using  $23,000,000 
of  cotton-compresses 
cotton  to  greater 
carry  more  weight 

The  Taylor  Compress  Company  occupies  2^  city  blocks  (7^ 

acres)  in  Galveston,  entirely  covered  with  brick  warehouses,  all  under  roof,  in  which  vast 
quantities  of  cotton  are  stored  and  manipulated.      The  company  dates  from  1876,  when  it 

introduced  the  most  powerful  and  efficient  machin- 
ery in  use  for  compressing,  and  even  these  ingenious 
inventions  they  have  now  discarded  in  favor  of  newer 
ones,  of  still  greater  strength.  Here  100  men  are 
employed,  preparing  by  steam  and  hydraulic  cot- 
ton-presses, the  cotton  brought  from  interior  Texas 

for  its  long  voy- 
age across  the  At- 
lantic.  W.  F. 
Compress  Com- 
practically  control 
housing  in  Galves- 
development  of 
the  field  of  labor 
GALVESTON  :  TAYLOR  COMPRESS  co.  indefinitely. 


GALVESTON  :    TAYLOR  COMPRESS  COMPANY. 

Ladd,  the  president  of  the  Taylor 
pany,  and  his  associates  at  this  time 
all  the  cotton  compressing  and  ware- 
ton.  With  the  continual  and  healthy 
the  cotton-raising  industry  in  Texas, 
in  this  direction  must  increase  almost 


a 

40,2 
86,7: 

M3,9 
142,4 
i,n 

.  99,96 
43,9 
74,5 
69,4 

207.QC 

32,7 
84.9 


The  first  European  visi- 
tors to  Utah  were  Capt. 
Cardenas  and  his  Spanish 
men-at-arms,  who,  in  the 
year  1 540,  reached  the  San- 
Juan  River.  The  country 
of  the  Utes  lay  hidden  amid 
her  vast  mountains,  until 
its  lonely  plateaus  were 

traversed  by  the  Franciscan  friars,  Escalante  and  Domin- 
guez,  who  came  hither  in  1776,  searching  for  a  route  from 
Santa  Fe  to  Monterey,  California.  They  reached  the  Utah 
and  Sevier  Lakes,  and  then  turned  back.  In  1825  Great 
Salt*  Lake  was  discovered  by  James  Bridger,  a  trapper  on 
Bear  River:  and  Gen.  Ashley  led  120  men  from  St.  Louis 
through  the  South  Pass  and  down  to  Utah  Lake,  where  he 
built  Fort  Ashley.  In  1826  J.  S.  Smith  and  15  trappers 
marched  from  Great  Salt  Lake  to  Utah  Lake,  Rio  Virgen, 
and  San  Gabriel,  California.  In  1833  Bonneville  crossed 
northern  Utah;  and  in  1841  Bartleson's  party  of  emi- 
grants, bound  for  California,  marched  from  Soda  Springs 
to  Corinne  and  into  Nevada,  misled  by  mirages,  and  per- 
turbed by  Shoshone  signal-fires  on  the  hills.  Fremont's 
explorations  of  Great  Salt  Lake  followed  ;  and  caravans  of 
emigrants  began  to  move  across,  north  of  the  lake,  on  their 
perilous  and  adventurous  way  to  California. 

In  the  spring  of  1847,  after  their  expulsion  from 
Nauvoo,  12,000  Mormons  lay  in  camp  on  the  site  of  Coun- 
cil Bluffs,  and  Brigham  Young  and  142  picked  men  marched 
westward  to  find  a  new  home  for  their  people,  beyond  the 
United  States.  After  more  than  three  months  of  arduous 
travelling,  up  the  Platte  Valley  and  through  the  South 
Pass,  the  pioneers  reached  the  site  of  Salt-Lake  City,  and 
dedicated  it  to  the  Lord.  July  4,  1847,  tne  nrst  immigra- 
tion, of  1,653  persons  and  580  wagons,  started  westward  from  Council  Bluffs.  Year  after 
year  brought  its  new  convoys  of  religious  enthusiasts,  until  a  powerful  community  had  risen 
in  this  new  Holy  Land,  with  Utah  Lake  for  its  sweet  Gennesaret,  and  the  River  Jordan 


Salt-Lake  Cit 


Settled  at    . 
Settled  in    . 

Founded  by Mormon 

Organized  as  a  Territory, 
Population  in  1860,       .     . 

In  1870, 

In  i8«o 

White, 

Colored, 

American-born,     .     . 
Foreign-born,    .     .     . 

Males 

Females, 

In  1890  (U.-S.  Census), 
Voting  Population,  .  . 
Area  (square  miles),  .  . 
U.-S.  Delegates,  .  .  . 
Assessed  Valuation  of 

Property  (in  1890),      $105,000,0 
Militia  (Disciplined),  ...  o 

Counties, 25 

Post-offices, 259 

Railroads  (miles) 1,124 

Manufactures  (yearly),    .    $4,324,992 

Operatives, 2,495 

Yearly  Wages,     ....  $858,863 
Farm  Land  (in  acres),      .     .     665,524 
Farm-Land  Values,      .$14,015,178 
Farm  Products  (yearly),  $3,337,410 
Public  Schools,  Average 

Daily  Attendance,     .    .      19,75° 

Newspapers, 51 

Latitude, 37°  to  42°  N. 

Longitude,       .     .     .  109°  to  114°  W. 
Temperature,      .     .     .  —20°  to  104° 
Mean  Temperature  (Salt-Lake 
City), 52° 


TEN  CHIEF  PLACES  AND  THEIR  POPU- 
LATIONS.    (Census  of  1890.) 

Salt-Lake  City, 44,P43 

Ogden 

Provo 

Logan 

Park  City, 

Springville, 

Mount  Pleasant,  .     .     . 

Spanish  Fork 

Brigham  City,  .     .     .    . 
Payson,    


5,159 
4.565 
2,850 
2,849 
2,254 
2,214 
2,139 
2,135 


RIO  VIRGEN  I    THE  CRAG. 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

flowing  thence  to  the  Dead  Sea  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake.  Utah 
came  to  the  Republic  with  the  great  cession  made  by  Mexico  in 
1848,  and  in  1850  was  formed  into  a  Territory,  including,  besides 
its  present  area,  Nevada  north  of  37°,  and  Colorado  and  Wyom- 
ing west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  as  far  north  as  42°.  In  1857 
the  Federal  officials  left  Utah,  professedly  in  fear  of  their  lives ; 
and  the  Territory  was  regarded  as  in  insurrection.  In  July  the 
American  Army  of  Utah  marched  west  from  Fort  Leavenworth, 
under  Albert  Sydney  Johnston,  to'chastise  the  Mormons  into  sub- 
mission. Gen.  Wells,  with  1,250  soldiers  of  the  Nauvoo  Legion, 
fortified  Echo  Canon ;  and  the  Federal  army  lay  near  Fort 
Bridger  all  winter,  suffering  severe  privations.  The  Mormons 
captured  and  burnt  their  trains,  and  stampeded  their  cattle,  and 
otherwise  harassed  the  troops.  In  June,  1858,  the  Army  of 
Utah,  composed  of  the  Fifth,  Sixth,  Seventh  and  Tenth  Infantry, 
First  Cavalry,  Second  Dragoons,  and  Phelps's  and  Reno's  bat- 
teries, marched  through  the  mountains  and  entered  the  valley. 
Salt-Lake  City  and  the  northern  settlements  were  absolutely  deserted  by  their  inhabitants, 
and  the  rumble  of  the  guns  and  caissons  and  the  tread  of  the  infantry  were  the  only  sounds 
heard  in  the  streets.  Over  30,000  Mormons  had  fled  through  the  snows  to  southern  Utah, 
bearing  their  household  goods,  and  intending  to  retire  to  Sonora ;  but  Gov.  Gumming  fol- 
lowed this  heroic  exodus,  and  persuaded  the  people  to  return  to  their  homes. 

In  1862  the  Nauvoo  Legion  guarded  the  mail-routes,  from  which  the  United-States  troops 
had  been  withdrawn  for  Southern  service.  In  the  same  year  Gen.  Conner  marched  into  Utah 
with  the  Third  California  Infantry  and  encamped  for  two  or  three  years  near  Salt-Lake  City. 
The  Mormons  have  increased  with  great  rapidity,  from  their  prolific  natural  growth,  and 
from  the  British,  German,  and  Scandinavian  proselytes  converted  to  the  faith  by  zealous 
missionaries,  and  brought  to  Deseret.  They  are  devoted  to  a  rural  life,  with  many  scat- 
tered villages,  self-supporting  and  exporting  nothing.  Much  of  the  trade  in  the  Territory 
is  carried  on  by  Zion's  Co-operative  Mercantile  Institution ;  and  other  operations,  such  as 
dairying,  farming  and  irrigation  are  advanced  by  co-operative  companies.  The  Mormon 
vote  exceeds  15,000,  to  12,000  Gentile  votes.  Ogden  is  held  by  the  latter  party,  and  Salt- 
Lake  City  has  been  carried  in  the  same  way,  but  the  farming  country  is  Mormon. 

The  National  officials  concede  the  sincerity  and  enthusiasm  of  the  Mormon  people,  but 
fear  the  unlimited  power  of  the  clergy,  and  deprecate  the  presumed  idea  that  the  Church 
and  its  laws  transcend  the  laws  and  edicts  of  the  American  Republic.  The  Mormons  claim 
that  they  have  sworn  loyalty  to  the  National  laws,  and  that  the  persecutions  raised  against 
them  are  on  account  of  their  religious  views. 
They  have  provided  punishment  for  polygamy  in 
their  proposed  State  constitution,  and  now  de- 
mand the  privileges  of  Statehood,  as  due  to  the 
population  and  wealth  of  Utah.  The  Edmunds 
law  of  1882  vacated  all  Utah  elective  offices,  dis- 
franchised polygamists,  annulled  woman-suffrage, 
and  closed  the  jury-box  to  adherents  of  the  doc- 
trine of  polygamy.  The  Edmunds-Tucker  law 
of  1887  confiscated  all  Mormon  Church  property, 
except  some  church  buildings  and  priests'  houses, 
and  turned  its  proceeds  into  the  school-fund. 

The  Name. —  Utah  is  an  Indian  word,  meaning  "A  home  on  a  mountain-top."  The 
Mormons  called  their  State  DESERET,  which  means  "The  Honey-Bee."  The  word  is  taken 
from  the  Book  of  Mormon.  Utah  is  also  called  THE  INTER-MOUNTAIN  TERRITORY. 


CASTLE   GATE. 


GREAT    SALT    LAKE  I     GARFIELD    BEACH    AND    GIANTS'    CAVE. 


THE   TERRITORY  OF   UTAH. 

The  Arms  of  Utah,  adopted  in  1850,  bear  an  old-fashioned  conical 
bee-hive,  on  a  stand  surrounded  by  flowers,  and  with  bees  hovering  about 
it,  emblematic  of  the  industry  of  the  people. 

The  Governors  have  been  :  Brig- 
ham  Young,  1850-54;  E.  J.  Steptoe, 
1854-7;  Alfred  Gumming,  1857-61  ; 
J.  W.  Dawson,  1861;  Stephen  S.  Hard- 
ing, 1861-4;  Jas.  D.  Doty,  1864-5; 
Chas.  Durkee,  1865-9;  J-  Wilson 
Shaffer,  1869-71;  Geo.  L.  Woods, 
1871-3;  Samuel  B.  Axtell,  1873-5; 
Geo.  W.  Emery,  1875-9;  Eli  H.  Mur- 
ray, 1879-86;  Caleb  W.  West,  1886-9; 
and  Arthur  L.  Thomas,  1889-93. 

The  President  of  the  Mormon  hierarchy  is  Wilford  Woodruff,  a  venerable  man  from 
Connecticut.  The  Presiding  Bishop,  Wm.  B.  Preston,  is  a  Virginian.  The  tithes  of  the 
Church  yearly  reach  $700,000,  which  is  used  in  schools,  missions,  char- 
ities, and  the  work  on  temples.  The  official  statistics  report  the  Mormon 
Church  as  consisting  of  twelve  apostles,  70  patriarchs,  3,919  high  priests, 
11,805  elders,  2,069  priests,  2,292  teachers,  11,610  deacons,  119,915 
officers  and  members,  and  49,303  children.  The  Mormon  Church  pro- 
claims itself  to  be  a  theo-democracy,  resting  upon  the  will  of  God  and 
the  voluntary  consent  of  the  people. 

The  Book  of  Mormon  is  one  third  as  large  as  the  Bible,  and  con- 
tains 1 6  sacred  books.  It  tells  of  the  coming  of  the  Jaredites  to  Amer- 
ica, after  the  confusion  of  tongues  at  Babel  (B.  C.  2, 100),  and  their  de- 
struction for  evil  behavior,  1,500  years  later.  The  prophet  Ether  wrote 
their  history;  which  was  found  by  a  second  colony,  led  from  Jerusalem 
by  the  just  man  Lehi  (B.  C.  600),  landing  in  Chile,  and  populating 
North  America.  In  time  this  people  separated  into  the  favored  and 
blessed  Nephites  and  the  degenerate  Lamanites.  About  A.  D.  400, 
the  Nephites  became  evil,  and  were  destroyed  by  the  Lamanites,  who 
relapsed  into  savagery,  and  became  the  progenitors  of  the  Indians.  It  is  claimed  that  the 
books  of  Ether  were  abridged  by  the  Nephite  prophet  Mormon,  who  also  recorded  the  his- 
tory of  his  own  nation,  and  hid  the  tablets  in  the  hill  of  Cumorah,  where  they  were  found 
by  Joseph  Smith,  the  founder  of  the  Church  of  Jesus  Christ  of  Latter-Day  Saints.  Smith 
was  slain  in  1844  >  an(l  Brigham  Young  held  the  Presidency  from  1844  until  his  death  in  1877. 
Descriptive.  —  The  general  height  of  Utah  is  6, 100  feet  above  the  sea,  and  5,000  square 
miles  are  more  than  9,000  feet  high.  The  massive  and  snowy  Wah- 
satch  Range  comes  in  on  the  north,  and  runs  southward,  gaining  in 
altitude  until  southeast  of  Salt-Lake  City  it  reaches  a  height  of  12,000 
feet.  It  is  a  very  conspicuous  range,  and  forms  the  eastern  wall  of 
the  Great  Basin.  One  of  the  chief  peaks  is  Mount  Nebo,  11,680 
feet  high,  south  of  Utah  Lake.  The  canons  of  the  Wahsatch, 
American  Fork,  Provo,  the  Cottonwoods,  Ogden,  and  others,  are 
full  of  picturesque  scenery,  and  thousands  of  tourists  visit  them  every 
season.  The  Uintah  Mountains  run  east  from  the  Wahsatch  Range 
for  150  miles,  between  the  Bridger  Basin  and  the  Uintah  Valley, 
the  chief  summits  being  Mount  Emmons,  (13, 694  feet),  Gilbert's  Peak 
(13,687),  Wilson's  Peak  (13,235),  and  Burro  Peak  (12,834).  Two 
great  plateaus  fall  away  southward  from  the  Uintah  Range,  ending 
in  the  singular  Book  Cliffs,  the  Azure  Cliffs,  and  other  receding  ENTRANCE  TO  OGDEN  CANON. 


ECHO    CANON  : 

DEVIL'S    SLIDE. 


834  KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 

plateau-fronts,  richly  and  brilliantly  colored,  and  frowning  over  the  canons  of  the  Grand  and 
Green  Rivers.    Southeastern  Utah  lies  on  a  line  of  plateaus  from  3,000  to  11,000  feet  high, 


broken  by  the  amazing 
of  sunless  and  lifeless 


OGDEN  :     UNION    RAILWAY   STATION. 


Grand  Canon  of  the  Colorado,  and  cut  into  by  hundreds 
gorges,  in  some  of  which  even  the  forming  streams  have 
died.     The  arid  uplands  are  carved  by  Nature  into 
£,       weird  forms,  and  being  nearly  a  mile  above  the 
sea-level  they  have  but  little  value,  ex- 
cept  for   grazing.      They  bear  singular 
Indian    names,     Kanab,     Kaiparowitz, 
Kaibab,  Awapa,  Aquarius,  Colob,  Tava- 
puts,  Markagunt,    Masuk,    Paunsagunt, 
Tununk  and  Yampa. 

The  Cache  and  Malad  Valleys,  running  northward  from  the  Great  Salt  Lake  into  Idaho, 
and  the  Bear-Lake  Country,  are  carefully  irrigated  and  tilled,  and  shelter  a  score  of  Mor- 
mon colonies.  The  Salt-Lake  Basin,  150  miles  long,  from  Nephi  to  the  Bear-River  Gates, 
has  a  breadth  of  from  40  to  50  miles,  and  contains  nearly  all  the  population  of  Utah.  The 
San-Pete  Valley,  the  granary  of  the  Territory,  lies  southeast  of  the  Salt-Lake  Basin,  almost 
surrounded  by  rugged  mountains,  and  occupied  by  Mormon  villages.  The  valleys  of  the 
Sevier,  the  Rio  Virgen,  and  the  Jordan,  and  the  Tooele  and  Utah-Lake  Valleys  have  farm- 
ing populations.  West  of  the  Sevier  and  Salt-Lake  Valleys  lies  the  elevated  plateau  of  the 
Great  Basin,  with  its  rivers  dying  in  barren  sands  or  salty  pools,  its  narrow  and  craggy 
mountains,  and  weary  leagues  of  arid  desert.  This  huge  table-land  between  the  Wahsatch 
Range  and  the  Sierra  Nevada  has  no  outlet  to  the  sea,  and  its  valleys  contain  lakes  which 
fade  away  in  the  dry  season  to  expanses  of  mud  encrusted  with  salt.  There  are  a  score  of 
mountain-ranges  running  north  and  south,  some  of  them  short,  and  others  more  than  a 
hundred  miles  long.  They  consist  of  bare  rock,  with  small  forests  of  pine  and  aspen  in 
their  high  and  hidden  canons,  whose  only  inhabitants  are  elk,  antelope,  mule-deer  and  bears, 
with  smaller  wild  animals.  There  are  a  few  oases  in  the  Great  Basin,  but  nearly  its  whole 
extent  is  absolutely  sterile,  with  no  possibility  of  irrigation.  The  Great-Salt-Lake  Desert 
fills  a  large  part  of  this  area,  with  5,000  square  miles  of  desolation.  The  forests  of  white 
pine  on  the  Wahsatch,  and  red  pine  on  the  Oquirrh,  and  the  grassy  openings  of  the  uplands 
are  succeeded  by  the  sage-brush  and  cacti  of  the  west,  and  by  broad  areas  devoid  of  vegeta- 
tion. These  plateaus  and  desert  lands  are  inhabited  mainly  by  coyotes  and  owls,  lizards, 
centipedes,  horned  toads,  crickets,  and  other  small  and  unpleasant  creatures,  forever  free 
from  the  perils  of  human  intrusion,  in  their  vast  and  lonely  solitudes. 

Great  Salt  Lake  once  covered  42,000  square  miles,  and  its  outlet  flowed  through  the 
Snake  and  Columbia  Rivers.  It  has  been  reduced  to  its  present  size  by  the  evaporations  of 
unknown  centuries.  The  lake  is  subject  to  great  changes  in  size,  rising  from  an  area  of 
1,700  square  miles  in  1849  t°  2,360  square  miles  in  1870,  since  which  it  has  decreased. 
The  average  depth  is  20  feet ;  and  the  surface  is  broken  by  nine  large  islands  and  several 

islets.  The  saline  mat- 
ter in  the  water  varies 
from  13.8  to  23.4  per 
cent,  of  its  weight,  which 
is  from  four  to  six  times 
the  amount  in  the  Atlan- 
tic Ocean.  At  Garfield 
Beach  there  is  a  popular 
summer -resort,  with  a 
band  playing  in  a  huge 
wooden  pavilion,  cafes, 
SALT-LAKE  CITY;  MORMON  TEMPLE,  TABERNACLE  AND  ASSEMBLY  HALL.  bath-houses,  piers,  hotels, 


SALT-LAKE   CITY  :    BEE-HIVE   HOUSE. 


THE    TERRITORY  OF    UTAH. 

and  the  usual  holiday  concomitants.  The 
surf  is  long,  low,  foamy  and  hissing,  and 
without  undertow ;  the  waves  are  heavy ;  and 
the  water  is  warm  and  bitterly  salt.  Sinking 
is  almost  impossible,  and  people  in  bathing- 
suits  float  about  on  their  backs,  gently  pad- 
dling over  the  surface,  or  treading  with  their 
feet  in  a  semi-upright  position,  and  bumping 
into  each  other,  like  canal-boats  adrift.  Hun- 
dreds of  persons  are  seen  here  afloat  at  one 
time.  The  Oquirrh  Mountains  rise  almost 
from  the  sandy  beach,  and  other  lofty  ranges 
nearly  encircle  the  lake,  their  rich  browns  fading  into  misty  blues  in  the  distance.  The 
transparent  waters  assume  a  strange  variety  of  hues,  delicate  greens,  ultramarine  and  tur- 
quoise blues,  and  sombre  blackish  expanses.  Off-shore,  mountain-islands,  like  Antelope 
and  Stansbury,  one  16  miles  and  the  other  20  miles  long,  rise  3,000  feet  above  this  mysteri- 
ous sea,  with  cliffs  of  white  sandstone  and  long  grassy  slopes.  Many  people  have  found 
about  Salt  Lake  a  remarkable  climate,  combining  the  light  pure  air  of  the  snowy  mountains 
with  the  salty  and  marine  breath  of  the  inland  sea,  and  yielding  in  each  inhalation  the  tonic 
properties  of  the  Alps  and  the  Atlantic.  In  the  summer,  the 
Utah  people  and  tourists  visit  the  lake  by  thousands,  bathing 
chiefly  and  boating  a  little,  in  a  salty  sea  higher  than  the  Alle- 
ghany  Mountains.  The  lurid  and  electric  splendor  of  the  sun- 
sets over  the  lake,  the  wonderful  views  from  the  promon- 
tory of  the  Oquirrh,  the  weird  gloom  of  Giants'  Cave, 
the  lonely  solitudes  of  the  western  islands,  inhabited 
only  by  myriads  of  gulls  and  pelicans,  the  snowy  harvests 
of  the  salt-farms,  afford  scenes  of  abiding  interest  and 
diversity.  Garfield  Beach  is  22  miles  from  Salt-Lake 
City,  and  crowded  excursion-trains  run  several  times  a 
day  in  summer,  the  round-trip  fare  being  50  cents. 
Syracuse  Beach,  and  Lake  Park,  reached  by  rail,  from  Ogden,  are  the  favorite  resorts  of  people 
living  near  that  part  of  the  lake.  Fremont  was  the  first  white  man  who  visited  this  locality 
(then  a  Mexican  lake),  in  1842,  reconnoitering  the  islands  in  a  rubber  boat.  Eight  years 
later,  Capt.  Stansbury  carefully  explored  the  lake  and  its  bays  and  shores. 

Utah  Lake  is  a  beautiful  expanse  of  fresh  sweet  water,  25  miles  long  and  10  miles  wide, 
abounding  in  large  speckled  trout  and  water-fowl,  and  fed  by  streams  from  the  Wahsatch 
Range.  The  shores  are  grassy  slopes,  sweeping  up  to  the 
bases  of  the  mountains,  and  occupied  by  hundreds  of 
farms,  and  the  Mormon  villages  of  Provo,  Lehi,  American 
Fork,  and  Springville.  Sevier  Lake,  25  by  ten  miles 
in  area,  lies  100  miles  south- south  west  of  Great  Salt 
Lake,  and  receives  the  Sevier  River.  Bear  Lake  ex- 
tends into  Idaho,  amid  the  cold  fastnesses  of  the  Wahsatch 
Range,  and  surrounded  by  Mormon  hamlets. 

The  Grand  River  from  Colorado  and  the 
Green  River  from  Wyoming  unite  in  the  east, 
each  flowing  in  the  bottom  of  a  profound 
canon,  and  form  the  Colorado  of  the  West, 
which  pours  its  dark  flood  through  Arizona 
to  the  Gulf  of  California,  secluded  in  a  series 
of  gorges  unequalled  elsewhere  in  the  world. 


SALT- LAKE  CITY  \     UNIVERSITY  OF  DESERET. 


MANTI  I     MORMON   TEMPLE. 


836 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED  STATES. 


The  Climate  is  subject  to  abrupt  and  wide  variations  between  the  seasons  and  between 

day  and  night.  Salt- 
Lake  City  has  a  mean 
yearly  temperature  of 
51^°,  and  a  rainfall  of 
15.72  inches;  but  in  the 
south  and  west  and  along 
the  lower  plateaus  the 
rainfall  drops  below  ten 
inches.  The  Wahsatch 
and  Uintah  ranges  re- 

— ^sT       ""^   ~   —  ><- —  ceive   a    much    greater 

AHSATCH  MOUNTAINS.  amount  of  moisture;  but 

the  water  falling  on  the  plains  is  not  enough  for  raising  crops  without  irrigation.  The 
temperature  of  the  valleys  is  frequently  mild  and  delightful,  with  an  elastic  and  bracing  air, 
although  Cache  Valley  has  severe  winters,  and  the  Rio-Virgen  country  is  semi-tropical.  The 
winters  in  the  Basin  are  moderate,  with  light  falls  of  snow,  followed  by  radiant  and  verdant 
springtimes  and  early  summers,  and  then  by  a  heated  term,  with  dry  and  dust-laden  storms, 
failing  streams,  and  the  parching  of  all  unirrigated  vegetation.  In  the  long  autumn  the  air 
clears,  and  waves  of  splendid  forest-coloring  adorn  the  mountains,  until  the  mantle  of  snow 
descends,  and  inaugurates  the  winter.  A  group  of  army  surgeons  commends  the  Utah 
climate,  with  out-door  life  and  simple  fare,  for  the  cure  of  phthisis,  asthma,  chronic  pneu- 
monia and  bronchitis  (without  heart  trouble),  and  consumption  (when  not  too  far  advanced). 
The  great  altitude  and  low  barometric  pressure  quicken  respiration  and  circulation,  and  the 
dry  air  and  cool  nights  invigorate  the  whole  system.  The  Utah  Hot  Springs,  ten  miles 
north  of  Ogden,  have  a  temperature  of  125°,  and  are  so  impregnated  with  iron  that  all  the  sur- 
rounding ground  is  stained  red.  Beck's  Hot  Springs  are  three  miles  north  of  Salt-Lake  City  ; 
and  the  famous  Warm  Springs,  with  waters  like  those  of  Harrowgate,  and  strongly  sulphurous, 
flow  in  the  environs  of  the  city.  These  resorts  and  others  have  been  improved  by  bath-houses. 
Farming.  —  The  arable  land  of  Utah  covers  3,000,000  acres,  watered  by  1,000  miles 
of  canals.  The  Bear-River  Canal  will  have  cost  $2,000,000,  being  50  miles  long,  20  feet 
wide  and  five  feet  deep.  The  paradise  which  the  Mormons  enjoy  in  their  green  valleys  has 
been  attained  only  by  an  enormous  outlay  of  ingenious  labor ;  and  if  the  irrigation-works 
should  be  suspended  for  but  a  few  weeks  the  whole  country  would  return  to  its  natural 
desert  state.  Even  now,  in  dry  weather,  Salt-Lake  City  is  one  of  the  dustiest  places  in  the 
world,  with  the  winds  from  the  Wahsatch  and  Oquirrh  Mountains  stirring  up  its  broad 
avenues.  The  irrigated  lands  are  growing  in  area,  and  produce  yearly  6,000,000  bushels 
of  grain,  600,000  bushels  of  fruit,  and  500,000  tons  of  lucerne  hay.  Wine  is  made  on  the 
Colorado ;  raisins  and  almonds  come  from  the  Rio-Virgen  country  ;  and  cotton-fields  whiten 
the  valleys  around  St.  George.  The  live-stock  of  Utah  has  risen  from  500,000  head  in  1876 
to  3,000,000  in  1890.  When  the  grazing  gives  out  on  the  lower  benches,  the  flocks  and  herds 
advance  to  the  higher  ranges,  finding  millions  of  acres  of  fattening  bunch-grass,  until  as  the 
snow-line  recedes  they  reach  the  cool  plateaus  and  the  grassy  valleys  of  the  mountains. 
When  they  retreat  to  the  lowlands  in  the  autumn  the  grass  there  has  been  cured  on  the  stalk, 
for  winter  forage. 

Mining  in  Utah  between  1871  and  1891  produced  $150,000,000,  two  thirds  in  silver, 
with  $40,000,000  in  lead,  and  the  rest  in  gold  and  copper.  Utah  is  next  to  Colorado  and 
Montana  as  a  lead-bearing  country,  and  its  yearly  product  exceeds  24,000  tons.  It  is  found 
in  all  the  mines,  and  is  the  chief  source  of  the  precious  metals.  The  ores  are  of  low  grade, 
readily  reduced  by  smelting.  There  are  large  silver  and  lead  mines  in  the  Wahsatch  Range, 
around  Park  City,  where  the  Ontario  alone  has  produced  above  $22,000,000.  In  the  Cot- 
tonwood  canons  are  mines  which  have  sent  out  $10,000,000.  Bingham  Canon  cuts  deep 


WEBER    CANON. 


THE    TERRITORY  OF   UTAH.  837 

into  the  Oquirrh  Mountains,  and  the  surrounding  region  is  occupied  by  many  mines,  rich 
in  low-grade  lead  and  silver,  with  some  gold.  Juab  County  hides  among  its  mountains  the 
Tintic  district,  including  the  Eureka-Hill,  Mammoth,  and  other  claims,  with  their  costly 
machinery  and  valuable  outputs.  The  Horn- Silver  chimney  of  ore,  in  Beaver  County, 
produced  90  tons  of  ore  daily  for  four  years,  valued  at  $13,000,000.  There  are  other 
profitable  mines  around  Frisco.  Antimony  and  cinnabar  are  mined  at  Marysvale. 
Gypsum  is  mined  and  milled  at  Nephi ;  geocerite,  a  singular  natural  paraffine,  in  the  cen- 
tral counties ;  sulphur,  at  Cove  Creek ;  saltpetre,  near 
Springville  ;  and  alum,  near  the  Promontory  Range. 
Elsewhere  occur  borax  and  petroleum,  graphite  and 
tripoli,  fire-clay  and  kaolin,  alabaster  and  lithographers' - 
stone,  and  other  minerals.  Salt  finds  a  ready  market 
for  chloridizing  silver  ores.  The  evaporation  of  Great 
Salt- Lake  leaves  it  upon  the  shores,  to  be  re-absorbed 
by  the  spring-tides,  or  gathered  into  great  snowy  piles, 
ready  for  shipment.  Over  40,000  tons  are  obtained  in 
this  way  yearly.  There  are  beds  of  rock-salt  stretch- 
ing for  miles  along  the  Sevier.  The  mines  near  Nephi  and  Salina  produce  5,000  tons 
yearly.  Asphaltum  is  sent  out  from  Spanish-Fork  Canon  and  from  the  Grand-River  Valley, 
where  it  appears  in  molasses-like  springs,  in  putty-like  black  masses,  and  in  flinty  lumps. 
Over  3,000  tons  of  gilsonite  (a  fine,  dry  asphaltum)  are  hauled  every  year  from  Fort 
Duchesne  80  miles  to  Price  station,  whence  it  is  sent  East  to  be  made  into  lacquers  and 
pavements.  Of  the  building-stone,  the  most  used  are  the  marbles  and  limestone  of  Logan, 
the  red  sandstones  of  Red  Buttes,  the  white  sandstone  of  San  Pete,  the  granites  of  Little  Cot- 
tonwood,  the  green  and  purple  slates  of  Antelope  Island,  and  the  flagging  stone  of  Park  City. 
There  are  enormous  beds  of  lignitic  coal  near  Green  River,  containing  40  per  cent,  of 
pure  carbon.  The  deposits  border  both  sides  of  the  Wahsatch  Range,  and  are  utilized  for 
stoves,  steam  and  coking.  The  yearly  product  exceeds  250,000  tons.  The  chief  iron  de- 
posits are  in  Iron  County  and  around  Tintic,  where  millions  of  tons  of  ore  appear.  Near 
Iron  City  there  is  a  belt  of  compact  Bessemer  ore,  pronounced  by  Prof.  Newberry  to  be 
"unexcelled  in  intrinsic  value  by  any  deposits  in  the  world."  Copper  is  mined  at  Tintic. 

Government.  —  The  governor  and  secretary  are  appointed  by  the  President.  The 
militia  of  Utah  was  organized  in  1850,  as  the  Nauvoo  Legion,  composed  of  the  First  Cohort, 
made  up  of  a  regiment  of  cavalry  and  a  battalion  of  life-guards,  and  the  Second  Cohort,  in- 
cluding Scott's  regiment  and  two  battalions,  with  several  artillery  companies.  In  1870, 
when  it  numbered  13,000  men,  Gov.  Shaffer  forbade  the  review  of  the  Legion  ;  and  a  year 
later  its  assembling  companies  were  dispersed  by  Federal  authority.  The  Penitentiary  is 
near  Salt-Lake  City ;  the  Reform  School,  at  Ogden  ;  and  the  Asylum  for  the  Insane,  near 
Provo.  The  Industrial  Home,  at  Salt-Lake  City,  was  provided  by  Congress  for  women 
renouncing  polygamy,  and  receives  also  their  children. 

Education  has  been  maintained  by  the  Mormons  in  schools.  After  the  commissioner 
of  public  schools  was  made  an  appointee  of  the  Supreme  Court  (by  the  Edmunds-Tucker 

=    law),   the  hierarchy   founded  several   church-schools, 
1   where  the  Bible,  the  Book  of  Mormon  and  the  Book 
!    of  Doctrine  and  Covenants  are  used  as  text-books.   The 
|    University  of  Deseret  is  a  Territorial  institution   at 
I    Salt-Lake  City.     It  is  a  high  and  normal  school,  with 
I    14  teachers  and  330  students;  and  dates  from  1850. 
The    Methodist   University   at    Ogden   was    founded 
in  1890.     The  Brigham  Young  College  is  a  Mormon 
institution,    founded   at   Logan    in    1878,    and    with 
•7^0   students       Offden   has   a   large   and   handsome 

SALT-LAKE    CITY  !    HOTEL    ONTARIO.  2OO     StUQCniS.  WgUCJ  S 


LOGAN  :    MORMON  TEMPLE. 


838  KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

military  academy.  Seven  Christian  sects  maintain  in  Utah  100  schools,  with  230  teachers 
and  9,000  students.  Five  of  these  are  academies,  at  Salt-Lake  City ;  and  Proctor  Academy, 
at  Provo,  belongs  to  the  New- West  Education  Commission  (Congregational).  The  Salt- 
Lake  Collegiate  Institute  (Presbyterian)  has  300  students ;  and  St.  -Mark's  School,  in 
connection  with  the  Episcopal  Cathedral  has  450.  Utah  contains  65  non-Mormon  churches, 
25  being  Methodist,  15  Presbyterian,  and  seven  each  Catholic  and  Episcopal. 

The  newspapers  of  Utah  include  nine  dailies,  at  Salt-Lake  City,  Ogden  and  Provo,  and 
40  others.  Papers  are  published  at  Nepni,  Logan,  Park  City,  Richfield,  Manti,  Huntsville, 
Heber  City,  American  Fork,  Eureka  and  Beaver. 

National  Institutions.  —  Fort  Douglas  has  a  beautiful  situation  three  miles  east  of 
and  500  feet  above  Salt-Lake  City,  overlooking  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  the  Jordan  Valley  and 
the  Oquirrh  Mountains.     The  barracks  and  officers'  quarters  are  of  stone,  amid 
pleasant  lawns  and  orchards.    The  only  other  military  post  is  Fort  Duchesne. 
There  are  1,900  Utes  on  the  Uintah  and  Uncompahgre 
Reservations,  in  the  northeast,  covering  4,000,000  acres 
of  deserts  and  mountains.     They  are  blanket   Indians, 
hunters   and   horsemen.       There  are  roving  bands  of 
Shoshones  in  the  north,  and  of  Piutes  in  the  south. 

Chief  Cities.  —  Salt-Lake  City  rises  like  a  beauti- 
ful vision  out  of  the  desert  southeast  of  Great  Salt  Lake, 
with  miles  of  wide  and  verdurous  streets,  refreshed  by 
running  streamlets,  and  small  houses  surrounded  by 
lawns,  gardens  and  orchards.  The  mountain-views  are  of  unrivalled  grandeur,  and  include 
the  lofty  Wahsatch  Range,  and  the  distant  Oquirrhs.  Temple  Block,  the  Sacred  Square, 
contains  the  chief  Mormon  ecclesiastical  buildings.  The  Tabernacle,  with  a  huge  turtle- 
shaped  roof,  has  seats  for  8,000  people  in  its  oval  auditorium,  and  contains  one  of  the 
sweetest  organs  in  America.  The  Mormon  Temple  is  a  large  and  many-towered  pile  of 
grayish-white  granite,  on  which  over  $4,000,000  have  been  spent.  The  Tithing  House, 
the  headquarters  of  Zion's  Cooperative  Mercantile  Institution,  the  Assembly  Hall,  the  En- 
dowment House,  the  Lion  House,  the  Bee-hive  House,  and  the  Gardo  House  are  near  by. 

Ogden  is  the  gate-city  of  Utah,  on  the  Weber  River,  not  far  from  the  lake,  with  five 
railroads  now  reaching  it.  There  are  several  fine  public  buildings,  and  prosperous  shoe  and 
woollen  factories  and  railway  repair-shops.  Logan,  near  the  beautiful  Logan  Canon,  is  an 
important  shire-town,  with  a  great  Mormon  temple.  St.  George,  in  the  Rio-Virgen  Valley, 
and  the  chief  town  of  southern  Utah,  was  founded  by  order  of  Brigham  Young,  in  1862, 
and  has  a  Mormon  temple  of  red  sandstone,  built  in  1873-81.  The  alkaline  desert  has  here 
been  changed  to  a  garden.  Provo,  founded  in  1850,  near  Utah  Lake,  has  woollen  mills  and 
foundries,  and  seems  destined  to  be  one  of  Utah's  foremost  railroad  centres.  It  nestles  at 
the  foot  of  Mount  lo,  in  a  lovely  crescent-shaped  valley,  bounded  by  the  Wahsatch  Range. 
Nephi,  "the  little  Chicago,"  stands  at  the  gateway  of  the  San-Pete  and  Sevier  Valleys, 
and  ships  yearly  2,500  tons  of  wool,  besides  much  salt  and  flour. 

The  Railroads  of  Utah  include  the  Union  Pacific,  from  the  Wyoming  line  to  Ogden, 
73  miles;  from  Ogden  to  Frisco,  275  miles;  from  Lehi  to  Silver  City  and  Tintic,  57  ;  fror 
Echo  to  Park  City,  31  ;  from  Salt-Lake  City  to  Tooele  and  Stockton,  37 ;  and  from  Ogdf 
into  Idaho,  76.  The  Central  Pacific  has  157  miles  of  track,  from  Ogden  to  the  Nevac 
line.  The  Utah  Central  runs  from  Salt-Lake  City  to  Park  City.  The  Denver  &  Ric 
Grande  Western  crosses  the  weird  plateaus  of  the  Green-River  country,  to  Salt-Lake  City, 
with  branches  to  the  Schofield  Coal  Mines,  Salina,  Alta,  and  Bingham  Canon.  The  San- 
Pete  Valley  line  runs  from  Nephi  to  the  Wales  coal-mines. 

The  Manufactures  of  Utah  employ  5,000  persons,  with  a  yearly  product  of  $9,ooo,< 
half  of  which  is  from  Salt-Lake  City.     The  Germania,  Hanauer  and  Mingo  smelters  ai 
south  of  Salt-Lake  City,  in  the  Jordan  Valley,  and  have  plants  valued  at  $400,000. 


The  first  European  to 
see  Vermont  was  Cham- 
plain,  who  in  1609  came 
south  from  Canada,  with  a 
war-party  of  Hurons,  on  a 
foray  against  the  Iroquois. 
By  virtue  thereof,  this  do- 
main appeared  on  the  maps 
of  New  France,  and  was 
claimed  by  the  French  Government.  The  first  colony 
from  France  established  Fort  St.  Anne  on  Isle  la  Motte  in 
1665,  and  was  opposed  by  an  outpost  at  Chimney  Point, 
built  by  the  Dutch  from  Albany.  .  In  1724  Massachusetts 
troops  founded  Fort  Dummer,  in  Brattleboro.  After  the 
conquest  of  Canada,  in  1760,  the  little  French  settlements 
along  Lake  Champlain  disappeared,  and  the  Winooski 
Valley  ceased  to  be  the  marching  route  of  hostile  war- 
parties,  descending  on  rural  New  England.  After  1741 
the  district  suffered  separation  from  Massachusetts ;  arid  it 
was  claimed  that  the  frontier  of  New  Hampshire  ran  as 
far  west  as  that  of  Massachusetts,  and  therefore  included 
Vermont.  Gov.  Wentworth  of  New  Hampshire  issued 
charters  for  138  townships  in  the  so-called  Hampshire 
Grants.  But  New  York  also  claimed  Vermont,  because 
Charles  II.  's  charter  to  the  Duke  of  York  granted  him 
"all  the  lands  from  the  Connecticut  to  the  east  side  of  the 
Delaware  Bay ; "  and  a  new  tide  of  colonists  poured  in, 
with  titles  issued  by  New  York,  endeavoring  to  oust  the 
New- Hampshire  grantees.  The  latter,  under  the  direc- 
tion of  Ethan  Allen  and  Seth  Warner,  formed  themselves 
into  the  "Green-Mountain  Boys,"  and  fought  the  intrud- 

King  George  III.  con- 


1791 
315,098 
330, 55 T 
332,286 
331,218 

1,068 
291,327 
359 


i65,399 
332,422 

>:  36.4 
95,621 
45,192 

I  §,788 

None. 


Settled  at Brattleboro. 

Settled  in 1763 

Founded  by    .    Massachusetts  men. 
Admitted  as  a  State,  . 
Population  in  1860, 

In  1870,    ..... 

In  1880, 

White,      .... 

Colored,   .... 

American-born,     . 

Foreign-born,   .     . 

Males.      .... 

Females,       .     .    . 

In  1800  (U.  S.  Census), 

Population  to  the  square  m 

Voting  Population,      .     . 

Vote  for  Harrison  (1888), 

Vote  for  Cleveland  (1888) 
Net  State  Debt,       .    .     . 
Assessed  Valuation  of 

Property  (1800),  .  $162,000,000 
Area  (square  miles),  .  .  .  9,565 
U.-S.  Representatives  (in  1893),  2 
Militia  (Disciplined),  ...  784 

Counties, 14 

Post-offices, 545 

Railroads  (miles),    ....  921 

Vessels 33 

Tonnage, 5,255 

Manufactures  (yearly),      $31,354,366 

Operatives, I7>54° 

Yearly  Wages,     .     .     .     $5,164,479 
Farm  Land  (in  acres),      .      4,882,588 

Farm-Land  Values,       $109,346,010 

Farm  Products  (yearly)  $22,082,656 
Public  Schools,  Average 

Daily  Attendance,  .     .     .       46,061 

Newspapers 81 

Latitude,  .  .  .  42°44'  to  45°43'  N. 
Longitude,  .  .  7\.0&l  to  73025'  W. 
Temperature,  .  .  .  —32°  to  97° 
Mean  Temperature  (Montpelier),  43° 


TEN  CHIEF  PLACES  AND  THEIR  POPU- 
LATIONS.    (Census  of  1890.) 


Burlington, 

Rutland 

St.  Albans 

Brattleboro,      .     .     .     • 

Barre 

St.  Johnsbury,  .  .  . 
Bennington,  .  .  .  . 
Colchester  (Winooski), 
Montpelier,  .  .  .  . 
Bellows  Falls,  .  .  .  . 


6,812 
6,567 
6,391 
5.143 
4,160 
3,092 


ers  stubbornly  for  many  years. 

firmed  New  York  in  the  possession  of  Vermont  in  1764  ; 

but  the  outbreak  of  the  Revolution  impaired  the  value  of 

this  title.     In  1775  Ethan  Allen  and  83  Green- Mountain  Boys  surprised  the  great  British 

stronghold  of  Fort  Ticonderoga,  and  compelled  its  surrender,  "in  the  name  of  the  Great 

Jehovah  and  the  Continental  Congress."     Crown  Point  also  fell  into  the  hands  of  the 


840 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE   UNITED   STATES. 


LAKE    CHAMPLAIN    FROM    ST.    ALBANS. 


Vermonters,  who  captured  234  cannon 
and  vast  military  supplies,  many  of 
which  were  sent  to  the  American  army 
besieging  Boston.  Vermont  troops 
attacked  Montreal ;  blockaded  the  St. 
Lawrence  by  batteries,  at  Sorel ;  cap- 
tured St.  Johns ;  and  joined  in  the 
assault  on  Quebec.  In  1777  Gens. 
Fraser  and  Riedesel  shattered  the  rear- 
guard of  St.  Clair's  American  army,  at  Hubbardton.  A  month  later  Gen.  Stark  and  1,600 
New-England  militia  defeated  Cols.  Baum  and  Breyman  and  1,500  Hessian  grenadiers  and 
dragoons,  Canadians  and  Tories,  storming  their  batteries,  near  Bennington,  and  causing 
them  a  loss  of  934  men.  The  Bennington  Battle  Monument  stands  on  State-Arms  Hill, 
at  Bennington  Center,  commanding  majestic  views  of  the  Green  and  Taconic  Mountains 
and  the  Hoosac  and  Walloomsac  Valleys.  It  was  begun  in  1887.  The  material  is  dolo- 
mite, or  magnesian  limestone  ;  and  the  structure  takes  the  form  of  an  obelisk,  301  feet 
high,  with  stairs  inside,  and  windows  to  look  out  over  southern  Vermont.  Two  German 
cannon  taken  on  this  field  by  Stark's  heroes  are  sacredly  preserved  at  the  State  House  in 
Montpelier.  The  British  authorities  endeavored  to  win  over  Vermont  to  their  cause,  but 
without  avail,  although  Congress  (influenced  by  New  York)  excluded  her  delegates  in  1776 
and  1782.  There  is  a  tradition  that  Ethan  Allen  was 
offered  the  title  of  Duke  of  Vermont  if  he  would  make 
his  State  into  a  Crown  province,  and  raise  two  regi- 
ments of  red-coats  for  the  royal  service.  Gov.  Chit- 
tenden  and  Ira  Allen  sagaciously  coquetted  with  the 
British  authorities  for  some  years,  achieving  the  valu- 
able results  of  delivering  the  unprotected  frontier  from 
hostile  forays,  and  of  alarming  the  Continental  Con- 
gress, which  refused  to  acknowledge  the  Statehood  of 
Vermont.  As  long  as  the  United  States  ignored  her, 
she  claimed  the  right  to  negotiate  with  England  as  an  independent  power.  On  the  I7th  of 
January,  1777,  the  convention  at  Westminster  declared  Vermont  "a  separate,  free  and  in- 
dependent jurisdiction  or  State;"  and  the  anniversary  of  that  day  is  still  celebrated  by 
loyal  Vermonters,  wherever  they  may  be,  wide-scattered  over  the  continent. 

In  1790  the  last  differences  with  New  York  were  happily  adjusted,  Vermont  paying 
$30,000,  in  consideration  of  which  the  older  State  renounced  all  claims  to  her  territory. 
Thus  ended  the  long  contest  between  the  Puritans  and  Patroons,  among  the  passes  of  the 
Green  Mountains.  In  1791  Vermont  entered  the  Union,  being  the  first  State  to  be  added 
to  the  original  thirteen,  the  admission  being  warmly  advocated  by  New  York. 

In  the  War  of  1812,  Burlington  was 
fortified  and  garrisoned,  and  2, 500  Ver- 
mont volunteers  joined  in  the  victorious 
fight  against  Sir  George  Prevost,  at  Platts- 
burg.  When  the  late  civil  war  broke 
out,  Gen.  Scott  said:  "Give  me  your 
Vermont  regiments ;  all  your  Vermont 
regiments.  I  remember  the  Vermonters 
at  Lundy's  Lane."  The  Green  Moun- 
tains will  long  cherish  the  heroism  of  the 
Second  Vermont  at  Bull  Run,  the  famous 
First  Vermont  Brigade  at  Marye's  Heights, 
BELLOWS  FALLS  AND  THE  CONNECTICUT  RIVER.  the  Wilderness  and  Cedar  Creek,  and 


GREEN    MOUNTAINS  .'     MOUNT    MANSFIELD. 


THE  STATE   OF    VERMONT. 


841 


NEWPORT  :     LAKE    MEMPHREMAGOG. 


Stannard's   Vermont    Brigade    at    Gettysburg. 

Out  of  37,000  enrolled  militia,  Vermont  sent 

34,238  soldiers  into  the  field,  and  lost   5,128 

dead,  and  as  many  more  ruined  by  wounds  or 

disease,  being  a  larger  percentage  than  befell 

the  troops  of  any  other  Northern  State.     No 

Vermont  regiment  gave  up  its  colors  in  battle. 

October    19,    1864,    22    Confederate   guerillas 

visited  St.  Albans  in  disguise  and  robbed  the 

banks,    escaping   into  Canada  with   $200,000, 

after  a  hot  pursuit.      In   1866,  1,200  Fenians,  "the  right  wing  of  the  army  of  Ireland," 

marched  from  Franklin  across  the  Canada  line  and  in  a  day  or  two  marched  back  again,  very 

hungry.   In  1870  another  Fenian  raid  hence  was  repulsed  by  embattled  Canadian  farmers. 

The  drain  of  population  to  the  West  has  kept  Vermont  nearly  stationary  in  popula- 
tion ;  and  in  1889  the  State  commission  found  over  200,000  acres  of  abandoned  fields 
growing  up  into  woodland.  Negotiations  were  entered  into  to  re-populate  the  empty  farms 
with  Swedish  colonists.  Meantime,  many  French-Canadians,  the  most  prolific  race  on  the 
globe,  have  moved  into  the  northern  counties  and  the  factory-towns.  In  some  towns  farm- 
ing-lands may  be  bought  for  from  $3  to  $5  an  acre,  in  healthy  and  beautiful  localities. 
The  Name  of  the  State  was  ordered  to  be  New  Connecticut  by  the  Westminster  Con- 
vention proclaimed  in 
I  777.  When  they 
learned  that  a  district 
on  the  Susquehanna 
bore  that  title,  the 
name  was  changed  to 
VERMONT,  from  the 
old  French  Verts  Monts 
or  "Green  Mountains." 
There  is  a  tradition 

RUTLAND   AND   KILLINGTON     PEAK.  that     the    Rev.      Samuel 

Peters  and  his  followers  broke  a  bottle  of  spirits  on  Mount  Pisgah,  in  1763,  and  named 
the  country  Vert  Mont.  Vermont  is  popularly  called  THE  GREEN-MOUNTAIN  ^  STATE,  in 
allusion  to  its  chief  geographical  feature,  beautiful  in  scenic  effect,  and  rich  in  inexhausti- 
ble treasures  of  marble  and  granite. 

The  Arms  of  Vermont  consist  of  a  green  landscape,  with  a  red  cow,  yellow  erect 
sheaves,  and  a  tall  pine-tree  ;  and  in  the  background  the  blue  Mount  Mansfield  and  Camel's 
Hump,  as  seen  from  Lake  Champlain,  against  a  yellow  sky.  The  crest  is  a  buck's  head. 
The  motto  is  VERMONT  :  FREEDOM  AND  UNITY.  Two  crossed  pine-branches  serve  as 
supporters  to  the  shield.  The  State  flag  resembles  the  National  standard,  except  that  the 
blue  union  contains  a  large  white  star,  in  which  the  Vermont  arms  are  emblazoned. 

The  Governors  have  been  Thomas  Chit- 
tenden,  1777-87  and  1790-97;  Moses  Robin- 
son, 1789-90;  Paul  Brigham  (acting),  1797; 
Isaac  Tichenor,  1797-1807  and  1808-9;  Israel 
Smith,  1807-8;  Jonas  Galusha,  1809-13  and 
1815-20;  Martin  Chittenden,  1813-5;  Richard 
Skinner,  1820-3;  Cornelius  Peter  Van  Ness, 
1823-6  ;  Ezra  Butler,  1826-8 ;  Samuel  Chandler 
Crafts,  1828-31  ;  Wm.  Adams  Palmer,  1831-5; 
Silas  H.  Jennison,  1835-41  ;  Charles  Paine, 
1841-3;  John  Mattocks,  1843-4;  Wm.  Slade,  MONTPELIER. 


842 


K'lNG^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED  STATES. 


BRATTLEBORO,  AND  THE  CONNECTICUT  RIVER. 


1844-6;  Horace  Eaton,. 1 846-8;  Carlos 
Coolidge,  1848-50;  Chas.  Kilbourne 
Williams,  1850-2  ;  Erastus  Fairbanks, 
1852-3  and  1 860- 1 ;  John  Staniford 
Robinson,  1853-4;  Stephen  Royce, 
1854-6;  Ryland  Fletcher,  1856-8; 
Hiland  Hall,  1858-60;  Frederick  Hoi- 
brook,  1861-3;  John  Gregory  Smith, 
1863-5;  Paul  Dillingham,  1865-7; 
John  B.  Page,  1867-9;  Peter  Thacher 
Washburn,  1869-70;  George  W.  Hen- 
dee  (acting),  1870;  John  W.  Stewart,  1870-2;  Julius  Converse,  1872-4;  Asahel  Peck, 
1874-6;  Horace  Fairbanks,  1876-8;  Redfield  Proctor,  1878-80;  Roswell  Farnham,  1880-2; 
John  L.  Barstow,  1882-4;  Samuel  E.  Pingree,  1884-6;  Ebenezer  J.  Ormsbee,  1886-8; 
Wm.  P.  Dillingham,  1888-90;  and  Carroll  S.  Page,  1890-92. 

Descriptive. —  The  Green  Mountains  traverse  Vermont  from  north  to  south,  mid- 
way between  the  Connecticut  River  and  Lake  Champlain.  They  form  a  lofty  range  from 
Massachusetts  to  the  centre  of  Vermont,  breaking  there  into  two  chains,  running  east  of 
north  and  northeast  to  Canada.  There  are  18  peaks  above  3,500  feet  high.  The  moun- 
tain sides  are  largely  covered  with  grass,  or  with  the  dark -green  spruce  forests  from  which 
they  derive  their  name.  Many  of  these  noble  Appalachian  highlands 
are  based  upon  vast  masses  of  fine  marble,  of  high  economic  value. 
The  chief  of  the  Green  Mountains  are  Mount  Mansfield,  4,389  feet; 
Killington  Peak,  4,241;  Jay  Peak,  4,018;  Pico,  3,935;  Shrewsbury, 
3,838  ;  Camel's  Hump,  4,088  ;  Mount  Equinox,  3,706  ;  and  Ascutney, 
3,165.  Among  the  favorite  summer-resorts  in  the  Green  Mountains 
is  Manchester,  near  Mounts  Equinox  and  ^olus ;  Stowe,  near  the 
magnificent  scenery  of  Mount  Mansfield  and  Smugglers'  Notch ;  and 
Waterbury.  There  are  hotels  on  Mount  Mansfield  and  Killington 
Peak,  overlooking  vast  areas  of  northern  New  England. 

Lake  Champlain  is  118  miles  long,  with  an  extreme  width  of  14  CATAMOUNT  MONUMENT. 
miles,  a  depth  of  399  feet,  and  a  height  above  the  sea  of  93  feet.  By  the  aid  of  canals 
and  rivers,  navigation  is  practicable  to  Montreal,  or  to  Albany  and  New  York.  The  waters 
abound  in  salmon-trout,  shad,  muskallonge,  sturgeon,  pike,  pickerel,  bass,  and  whitefish. 
Vermont  is  the  only  New-England  State  shut  out  from  the  sea,  but  her  noble  lake  gives 
her  a  large  maritime  commerce,  a  thousand  vessels  entering  the  port  of  Burlington  yearly, 
with  imports  and  exports  reaching  $12,000,000.  The  second  steamboat  ever  built  was  the 
4  Vermont,  launched  at  Burlington  by  John  and  James  Winans,  ii 

1809,  and  run  on  Lake  Champlain  for  six  years.  The  new  Vermoi 
and  Chateaugay  belong  to  the  Champlain  Transportation  Company, 
and  ply  up  and  down  the  lake.  Of  late  years  yachting  has  become 
an  important  feature  of  summer-days,  the  chief  organization  being 
the  Lake-Champlain  Yacht  Club,  with  a  handsome  club-house  at 
Burlington,  and  a  membership  of  400.  The  harbors  of  Burlington, 
Swanton  and  Plattsburg  are  protected  by  long  artificial  breakwaters. 
The  southern  third  of  Lake  Memphremagog's  30  miles  is  in  Ver- 
mont, and  the  rest  in  Canada.  Lake  Bomoseen,  at  Castleton,  lies 
in  a  deep  rocky  basin  eight  miles  long,  with  pleasant  scenery. 
j^.  Willoughby  Lake,  six  by  two  miles,  filling  a  profound  chasm  be- 
tween two  mountains ;  Lake  Dunmore,  five  miles  long,  near  Middle- 
bury,  and  environed  by  fine  hills  ;  St. -Catherine,  Caspian,  Maidstone, 
and  scores  more  of  beautiful  lakes  diversify  the  mountain-land.  On 


BENNINGTON  I 


BENNINGTON  I 
BATTLE    MONUMENT. 


THE  STATE   OF    VERMONT. 


843 


BILLINGS    LIBRARY. 


BURLINGTON  :     UNIVERSITY   OF  VERMONT. 


the  Champlain  side  the  main  streams  are  Otter  Creek,  90  miles ;  the  Winooski,  70 ;  the 
Lamoille ;  and  the  Missisquoi,  75.  The  Clyde,  Barton  and  Black  flow  into  Lake  Mem- 
phremagog ;  and  the  Passumpsic,  Wells,  White,  and  Otta  Queechee  into  the  Connecticut. 
The  little  rivers  of  Vermont  traverse  wide  and  fertile  meadows, 
amid  great  beauty  of  scenery,  with  the  graceful  American  elms 
and  the  locally  famous  sugar-maples 
bending  over  their  pellucid  waters. 

The  Climate  is  subject  to  sud- 
den and  great  changes,  with  pro- 
longed snowy  winters ;  but  the  clear 
and  pure  air  keeps  the  death-rate  low 
and  the  people  sturdy.  The  sani- 
tariums in  and  near  Brattleboro  were 
once  of  wide  renown ;  and  at  the 
present  time  there  are  several  of  these 
institutions  on  the  noble  bluffs  near 
Burlington,  viewing  the  lake  and 
mountains.  In  the  lower  Missisquoi 
valley  flows  the  famous  Sheldon  Spring,  a  very 
unusual  alkaline-saline  water,  used  for  hot  and 
cold  baths,  and  beneficial  to  rheumatics  and 
other  sufferers.  The  Central,  Missisquoi,  Ver- 
mont, Continental,  and  Excelsior  Springs,  in  this 
vicinity,  have  a  considerable  repute  for  their 
healing  waters,  and  the  hotels  are  filled  in  summer.  The  saline  and  alkaline  Highgate 
Springs,  with  their  large  old  hotel,  and  the  Champlain  Spring,  are  near  the  beautiful 
Missisquoi  Bay.  Farther  west,  on  a  long  peninsula  between  the  bay  and  Lake  Champlain, 
are  the  Alburgh  Springs.  In  southern  Vermont,  seven  miles  from  Rutland,  is  the  ancient 
hotel  at  Clarendon  Springs.  The  Newbury  Sulphur  Springs  are  on  the  edge  of  the  idyllic 
Ox-Bow  Meadows  of  the  Connecticut  River,  and  in  sight  of  the  majestic  Franconia  Moun- 
tains. Middletown  Springs,  with  their  hotels,  lie  in  a  picturesque  Green-Mountain  valley, 
15  miles  from  Rutland.  The  six  Brunswick  Springs,  near  the  Connecticut  River,  include 
iron,  magnesia,  white-sulphur,  bromide  and  arsenic  waters. 

Farming. — The  value  of  the  farms  of  Vermont  has  not  increased  during  the  last  30 
years,  but  the  value  of  their  products  is  greatly  augmented.  The  valleys  are  rich  in  a  deep 
black  alluvial  soil,  and  the  strong  loam  of  the  uplands  affords  good  crops  and  pasturage. 
The  percentage  of  improved  farm-land  in  Vermont  is  larger  than  in  any  other  State  except 
New  York  and  Illinois.  The  rich  arable  plains  of  the  Champlain  Valley,  sheltered  from 
sea-winds,  are  adapted  to  fruit-farming  and  dairies  ;  and  Vermont  has  the  most  extensive 
dairy-interests  of  any  State,  in  proportion  to  its  population,  the  product  reaching  35,000,000 
pounds  a  year.  The  State  Board  of  Trade  was  formed  in  1888,  in  the  interest  of  the 
makers  of  butter,  cheese,  and  maple-sugar,  and  one  of  its  functions  is  to  expose  the.many 

dangerous  counterfeits  of  these  articles.  The  butter  pro- 
duct has  more  than  doubled  since  1860,  but  the  cheese 
product  has  lessened.  Factory-made  dairy-products  are 
now  in  general  favor,  and  are  of  great  excellence.  The 
yield  of  maple-sugar  exceeds  $1,250,000  a  year,  and  the 
sap  is  evaporated  with  more  scientific  care  than  of  old.  It 
is  exported  in  great  quantities,  mainly  to  the  West,  the 
business  being  largely  directed  by  the  Maple- Sugar  Ex- 
change at  Brattleboro,  with  members  in  38  towns.  One 
WOODSTOCK  :  NORMAN  wiLL.AMs  UBRARY.  third  of  the  maple-sugar  of  America  comes  from  Vermont, 


MANCHESTER : 
SEMINARY   AVENUE. 


HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STA  TES. 

whose  great  maple-orchards  are  tapped  in  early  spring,  pour- 
ing out  their  sap  through  spouts  fixed  in  the  trees,  to  be  boiled 
down  into  syrup  and  crystallized. 

The  most  valuable  crop  is  hay,  of  which  the  yearly  product 
exceeds  1,000,000  tons,  valued  at  $11,000,000.  The  aggre- 
gate of  the  remaining  crops  is  hardly  half  this  amount,  the 
chief  of  them  being  potatoes  and  oats,  about  $2,000,000  each. 
There  is  less  wool  clipped  here  than  in  1850,  owing  to  strong 
outside  competition.  But  the  choice  breeds  of  fine-wooled 
merino  sheep  of  ancient  pedigree  raised  in  Vermont  are  cele- 
brated all  over  the  world,  and  have  been  exported  to  Australia, 
South  America  and  other  remote  countries.  Texan  and  Cali- 
fornian  sheep-raisers  continually  visit  this  region  to  get 
thorough-bred  rams  to  keep  up  the  standard  of  their  flocks. 
The  horses  of  Vermont  have  also  won  great  fame,  and  the 
Morgan,  Messenger  and  Black- Hawk  stocks  are  honored  in 
equine  history. 

The  Quarries  are  of  great  value  and  interest.  Vermont 
leads  all  the  States  in  the  quantity,  quality  and  variety  of  its  marble,  of  which  millions  of 
cubic  feet  are  exported  every  year.  Three  quarters  of  the  marble  quarried  in  the  United 
States  comes  from  Vermont ;  and  Rutland,  the  centre  of  this  industry,  has  sidewalks  and 
curbstones,  underpinnings  and  hitching-posts,  and  many  public 
buildings  of  this  beautiful  material,  which  is  both  whiter  and 
more  durable  than  the  famous  Carrara  marble.  A  small  grave- 
stone quarry  was  opened  in  1785;  the  first  work  on  Rutland 
marble  began  in  1844,  at  West  Rutland ;  and  now  the  little  Otter- 
Creek  Valley  alone  has  40  quarries,  employing  4,500  men  and 
$5,000,000  in  capital.  The  Vermont  Marble  Company  (of  which 
the  Hon.  Redfield  Proctor,  recently  U.-S.  Secretary  of  War,  was 
the  founder)  employs  1,400  men,  and  a  capital  of  $3,000,000  ; 
and  out  of  370  gangs  of  saws  now  running  in  Vermont  it  has  in 
operation  194.  The  principal  marbles  quarried  in  Vermont  are  from  Rutland  (both  white 
and  blue)  and  Sutherland  Falls.  The  greatest  part  of  the  Rutland  quarries  are  owned  by 
this  company,  and  they  are  also  the  owners  of  the  Sutherland-Falls  quarry,  at  Proctor, 
which  is  the  biggest  single  quarry  in  existence.  This  company,  which,  by  the  way,  is  the 
largest  concern  in  the  world  engaged  in  this  business,  requires  4,000  horse-power  to  operate 
its  machinery,  and  runs  in  | \  connection  with  its  business 


: 


MONTPELIER  I     POST-OFFICE. 


PROCTOR   AND   WEST    RUTLAND 
VERMONT    MARBLE   COMPANY. 


a  railroad  of  20  miles,  connecting  its  different  works.  The  greater  part  of  the  marble 
quarried  in  Vermont  is  used  for  monumental  purposes,  it  having  for  these  uses  very  rapidly 
replaced  the  Italian  stone.  A  large  amount  is  also  used  in  buildings.  It  is  especially 


THE  STATE   OF   VERMONT.  845 

adapted  for  this  use  in  that  it  is  the  best  fire  resistant  of  all  stones  (the  Sutherland-Falls 
withstanding  a  heat  of  1, 000°,  while  granite  crumbles  at  700°).  It  also  possesses  great 
strength,  sustaining  a  crushing  weight  of  over  17,00x3  pounds  to  the  inch,  while  granite 
tests  but  15,000,  and  brownstone  about  3,000.  The  terrace  and  grand  stairway  of  the 
Capitol,  at  Washington ;  the  Parker  House  extension,  at  Boston ;  the  spire  of  Grace 
Church,  at  New  York ;  and  thousands  of  structures  in  different  parts  of  the  country,  attest 
at  once  the  desirability  and  popularity  of  marble  for  building  purposes  and  the  extent  of 
the  business  of  this  company. 

Marble  has  been  quarried  in  large  quantities  at  Manchester,  Dorset,  New  Haven,  Rox- 
bury,  Brandon,  Middlebury,  Swanton,  St.  Albans,  and  Castleton.  The  verd-antique  of 
Plymouth  is  equalled  in  beauty  only  by  that  of  Tuscany.  At  Brandon  there  are  mines  of 
kaolin,  from  which  fine  grades  of  mineral  paint  are  made.  At  Barre,  six  miles  south  of 
Montpelier,  35  firms  are  engaged  in  the  quarrying  of  granite,  employing  1,200  men,  and 
shipping  over  20,000  tons  yearly.  The  stone  is  clear  and  even  in  texture,  uniform  in 
color,  and  susceptible  of  a  high  polish.  Many  granite-workers  came  hither  from  the  Aber- 
deen quarries,  in  Scotland  ;  and  within  ten  years  the  population  has  risen  from  500  to  7,000. 
There  are  also  granite  quarries  at  Dummerston  and  Ryegate.  Fairhaven  and  Castleton  are 
famous  for  slate,  worked  by  large  bodies  of  men,  for  billiard-beds,  mantels,  and  slate-pen- 
cils. Valuable  roofing-slate  comes  from  Poultney  and  North- 
field.  The  copperas  of  Pompanoosuc  and  the  copper  ore  of 
Ely,  Vershire  and  Corinth,  have  given  rise  to  lucrative  industries. 
Near  Brandon  there  are  deposits  of  brown  lignite,  burning 
readily.  Vermont  produces  yearly  over  500,000  barrels  of  lime, 
and  5,250,000,000  brick.  Talc  and  manganese  are  mined  here. 
The  Government  includes  a  biennially  elected  governor, 
lieutenant-governor,  treasurer,  secretary  of  State,  and  auditor  of 
accounts  ;  a  senate  of  30  members  ;  a  house  of  243  representa- 
tives (one  from  each  organized  town);  and  an  elective  judiciary. 
The  State  House  at  Montpelier  was  built  in  1857-9,  and  has  a 
Doric  colonnade  of  white  Barre  granite,  and  is  crowned  by  a 
handsome  dome,  above  which  rises  a  statue  of  Ceres.  Here  are 
kept  the  24  State  flags,  41  United- States  flags,  and  two  brigade 
flags,  borne  by  Vermont  soldiers  in  the  Secession  War.  Here 
also  rest  the  cannon  captured  by  Vermonters  from  the  Hessians, 
at  Bennington,  in  1 7 7 7.  The  State  Library  of  26,  oco  volumes,  the 
Supreme  Court,  and  the  Historical  Society  occupy  an  annex.  The  Vermont  National 
Guard  includes  the  First  Regiment,  the  First  Separate  Battalion,  and  the  famous  Fuller 
Light  Battery,  of  Brattleboro,  armed  with  new  steel  rifled  guns.  The  State  Prison  is  at 
Windsor ;  the  House  of  Correction,  at  Rutland ;  the  Reform  School,  at  Vergennes ;  the 
Asylum  for  the  Insane,  at  Waterbury. 

The  Chief  Towns  are  Burlington,  beautifully  situated  over  Lake  Champlain,  and 
favored  by  a  large  trade  in  lumber ;  Rutland,  in  the  mountain-guarded  Otter-Creek  Valley; 
St.  Albans,  three  miles  from  Lake  Champlain,  with  a  thronged  butter-market,  and  large 
railroad  shops ;  Bennington,  occupied  by  manufactures ;  Brattleboro,  amid  charming  hill- 
scenery  on  the  Connecticut ;  Castleton,  near  Lake  Bomoseen ;  St.  Johnsbury,  a  famous 
manufacturing  village ;  Montpelier,  nestling  in  a  beautiful  valley,  ten  miles  from  the  centre 
of  Vermont,  with  handsome  State  and  Federal  buildings ;  and  Bellows  Falls,  amid  grand 
mountain-scenery  at  the  white  and  impetuous  falls  of  the  Connecticut. 

Education  received  earnest  attention  at  the  dawn  of  Vermont's  history ;  and  over 
$600,000  are  now  spent  on  the  public  schools  yearly. 

The  University  of  Vermont  was  opened  in  1800,  and  its  buildings  crown  College  Hill, 
at  Burlington,  with  magnificent  views  of  the  Green  Mountains  on  the  east  side,  and  Lake 


MIDDLEBURY    COLLEGE 
STARR    HALL. 


846 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


Champlain  and  the  Adirondack  Mountains  on  the  west.  The  University  has  36  instructors 
and  470  students,  including  180  in  the  Medical  School.  The  State  Agricultural  College  is 
connected  with  the  University,  and  teaches  chemistry,  engineering  and  farming,  and  mili- 
tary science.  The  most  beautiful  of  the  University  buildings  is  the  Billings  Library,  of 
rock-faced  and  carved  stone,  designed  by  H.  H.  Richardson.  It  contains  42,000  volumes. 
Among  the  university's  graduates  were  Jacob  Collamer,  Henry  J.  Raymond,  Rev.  Dr.  W. 
G.  T.  Shedd,  John  A.  Kasson,  Frederick  Billings,  and  H.  O.  Houghton,  the  publisher. 

Middlebury  College,  founded  in  1800,  occupies  a  campus-  of  300  acres,  on  a  pleasant 
hill-top,  with  views  including  the  Otter-Creek  and  Champlain  Valleys,  and  the  Green 
Mountains.  It  is  Congregational,  and  has  nine  professors  and  50  students.  Among  its 
graduates  were  Hudson,  the  Shakespearean ;  Edward  J.  Phelps,  late  United-States  Minis- 
ter to  Great  Britain ;  Stephen  Olin  ;  and  Silas  Wright. 

Norwich  University,  founded  at  Norwich  in  1819,  was  the  first  military  college  in  the 
Union.  Gen.  Sherman  said  that  Norwich  "almost  rivalled  the  National  Academy  at  West 
Point."  After  the  buildings  were  burned,  in  1866,  the  institution  migrated  to  Northfield. 
Many  distinguished  army  officers  (including  275  in  the  Secession  War)  graduated  at  Nor- 
wich. The  cadets  for  30  free  scholarships  are  appointed  by  the  State  senators.  The  uni- 
form is  dark  blue,  with  United-States  helmet.  There  are  twelve  instructors  (including  a 
detailed  army  officer)  and  60  cadets. 

The  State  supports  three  normal  schools,  at  Castleton,  Randolph  and  Johnson.  The 
Vermont  Episcopal  Institute  and  Bishop  Hopkins  Hall  are  handsome  stone  structures  on 
Rock  Point.  St.  - Johnsbury  Academy,  founded  in  1842,  occupies  handsome  modern  build- 
ings, given  by  Thaddeus  Fairbanks,  in  1873.  Many  villages  have  public  libraries,  the 
most  attractive  of  which  is  at  Woodstock,  enshrining  its  treasures  in  a  round-arched  build- 
ing of  red  limestone  and  marble,  with  an  open  timber  roof,  and  valuable  paintings.  The 
Fletcher  Free  Library,  at  Burlington,  has  18,000  volumes ;  and  the  St. -Johnsbury  Athe- 
noeum,  founded  by  ex-Gov.  Horace  Fairbanks,  contains  12,000  volumes,  and  an  art-gallery, 
whose  chief  work  is  Bierstadt's  Domes  of  the  Yosemite. 

The  Railroads  followed  the  lines  of  the  old  Indian  trails.  The  line  from  Burlington 
to  Windsor  dates  from  1849;  Rutland  to  Burlington,  and  Essex  Junction  to  Rouse's  Point, 
1850;  and  White-River  Junction  to  St.  Johnsbury,  1851. 

The  Manufactures  of  Vermont  include  farming  and  dairy  implements,  parlor-organs, 
scales,  wagons,  paper,  and  machinery. 

In  the  beautiful  valley  through  which  the  Lamoille  River  winds  down  to  Lake  Cham- 
plain,  nestles  Hyde  Park,  the  county  seat  of  Lamoille  County,  with  its  country  village- 
street,  on  which  front  the  white  court-house, 
town  hall,  academy,  hotel,  and  half  a  dozen 
stores.     From  a  business  point  of  view  Hyde 
Park    derives    importance    from    Carroll    S. 
Page's  green  calf-skin  business,  the  largest 
industry  of   its  kind  in  the   United   States. 
In  Mr.  Page's  busy  hide-house  hundreds  of 
thousands  of  skins  are 
ments  being  made  to 
the  country,  while  he 
pared     products     to 
tanners.      The    won- 
to  which  the  business 
largely  due  to  unique 
so  that  a  tanner  desir- 
specialty     can     here 
GOV.  CARROLL  s.  PAGE'S  ESTATE.  raw    skin     required. 


handled  yearly,  ship- 
him  from  all  parts  of 
in  turn  sells  the  pre- 
American  and  foreign 
derful  development 
has  been  brought  is 
methods  of  grading, 
ing  skins  for  any 
obtain  exactly  the 


THE  STATE   OF   VERMONT.  847 

The  trade  has  thus  come  to  be  largely  in  specialties  for  fine  work,  such  as  pocket-books, 
drum  and  banjo  heads,  roller  skins,  and  fine  shoes.  The  development  of  this  vast  business, 
so  far  from  the  trade-centres,  has  been  productive  of  great  good  to  the  town,  and  is  the 
subject  of  continual  wonder  on  the  part  of  visitors.  Mr.  Page  is  now  Governor  of  Vermont. 

In  a  pleasant  glen,  near  Burlington, 
nestles  the  large  village  of  Winooski,  the 
seat  of  the  Burlington  Woolen  Company, 
whose  three  mills,  four  brick  storehouses, 
naphtha  and  carbonizing  buildings,  flour 
and  grist  mills,  brick  block  for  halls  and 
stores,  and  tenement  houses,  make  up  a 
considerable  part  of  the  place.  This  in-  WINOOSKI  :  BURLINGTON  WOOLEN  MILLS. 

dustry  was  founded  in  1827,  and  the  present  corporation  dates  from  1861.  The  company 
employs  1,000  persons,  making  uniform  cloths  and  broadcloths,  doeskins  and  kerseys, 
overcoatings  and  Meltons,  carriage-cloths  and  cloakings,  beavers  and  cassimeres.  The 
experience  of  three  generations  of  skilled  operatives  has  brought  to  the  Burlington  Woolen 
Company  an  unexcelled  reputation  for  its  product  of  fine  and  costly  grades  of  cloth,  which 
are  sold  all  over  the  United  States,  their  character  and  fineness  reaching  the  highest  brands 
of  foreign  woolens.  The  Colchester  Mills,  under  the  same  management,  and  controlled 
by  the  same  owners,  employ  several  hundred  hands  in  making  the  finest  grades  of  cotton 
yarn,  carded  and  combed,  white  and  in  colors.  The  Burlington  Woolen  Company  and  the 
Colchester  Mills  afford  employment  to  a  majority  of  the  residents  of  Winooski. 

At  Olcott,  a  picturesque  point  on  the  Connecticut  River,  two  miles  above  White-River 
Junction,  is  the  extensive  water-power  developed  since  1885  by  the  Olcott-Falls  Company. 
In  1848  a  charter  was  granted  to  The  White-River  Falls  Corporation,  for  "maintaining  a 
dam  and  water-power,"  and  among  the  corporators  was  Rufus  Choate.  To  this  corporation 

succeeded  the  present  company, 
whose  plant  comprises  a  dam  600 
feet  long,  giving  a  head  of  40  feet 
and  10,000  horse-power ;  and  the 
paper  and  pulp  mills,  a  compact 
group  of  brick  and  stone  buildings 
covering  two  acres.  The  machinery 
includes  four  paper-machines  of  a 

OLCOTT  :  OLCOTT  PAPER  MILLS.  width  of  84  inches,  88  inches,  100 

inches  and  104  inches  respectively;  and  19  i8-inch  and  54-inch  pulp-grinders,  requiring 
each  250  horse-power,  and  yielding  a  daily  product  of  80  tons  of  printing  paper  and  dry 
pulp.  The  pulp  wood  is  cut  from 
wood-tracts  of  1 , 500  acres  in  northern 
Vermont,  owned  by  the  company. 
Having  their  own  timber-lands,  an 
abundant  water-power,  and  the  latest 
improved  machinery,  the  facilities  of 
the  Olcott-Falls  Company  for  fur- 
nishing a  superior  grade  of  newspaper 
for  the  large  city  daily  press  are  unsur- 
passed. The  products  of  these  mills 
are  sold  through  Wilder  &  Co. ,  of  Bos- 
ton, C.  T.  and  H.  A.  Wilder,  being  respectively  President  and  Treasurer  of  this  company. 

Nearly  all  trade,  the  mainspring  of  modern  life,  is  based  upon  weight ;  and  up  to  within 
a  lifetime  this  was  an  affair  of  the  ancient  even  balance,  or  Roman  steelyard,  or  similarly 
inexact  contrivances.  In  1823  Thaddeus  Fairbanks  started  a  foundry  at  St.  Johnsbury. 


ST.   JOHNSBURY  :     THE    E.    &  T.    FAIRBANKS    &    CO. 


BURLINGTON  : 


848  KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 

Vermont;    and   in    1824,    with   his   brother 

*?*W      l^llijjj^lli^il  Erastus,   began   to   manufacture   stoves  and 

plows,  afterwards  adding  hemp-dressing  ma- 
chines, and.  entering  also  the  hemp  business. 
The  purchase  of  hemp  involved  much  weigh- 
ing ;  and  Mr.  Fairbanks  after  long  study  de- 
vised the  platform  scale,  a  series  of  levers 
delicately  adjusted  on  knife-edge  steel  bear- 
ings, and  still  the  accepted  principle  of  all 
practical  weighing  machines.  This  was 
patented  in  1831,  and  out  of  its  manufacture 
has  grown  the  largest  scale-factory  in  the  world,  incorporated  in  1874,  and  with  a  paid-in 
capital  of  $2,500,000.  The  scales  and  their  processes  of  manufacture  are  covered  by  a 
great  number  of  patents.  There  are  500  varieties  made  here,  ranging  from  the  most  deli- 
cate balances  up  to  the  huge  railway  scales,  weighing  150 
tons  at  once.  Large  shipments  are  made  to  Brazil  and 
Chili,  Germany  and  Austria,  Australia  and  the  far  East ;  and 
the  United  States  is  supplied  from  E.  &  T.  Fairbanks  &  Co.'s 
warehouses  in  a  score  of  cities.  For  many  years  this  com- 
pany has  furnished  the  Government  with  scales,  from  the 
delicate  ones  in  the  post-offices  up  to  those  used  in  the  navy- 
yards.  The  Fairbanks  scales  are  the  standard  of  Europe 
and  Africa,  India  and  Australia,  China  and  Japan,  the  East 
and  West  Indies,  and  South  America.  The  Fairbanks' 
works  are  at  St.  Johnsbury,  and  cover  twelve  acres,  with  more  than  a  score  of  sub- 
stantial buildings,  occupied  by  700  skilled  workmen,  making  every  year  from  10,000  tons 
of  material  over  100,000  scales,  valued  at  $3,000,000.  The  Fairbanks  have  enriched  St. 
Johnsbury  with  a  noble  church  and  academy,  a  library,  art-gallery,  and  museum  of  natural 

history.  Two  of  them  have  been  Governors  of  Vermont. 
The  beautiful  village  of  Brattleboro,  on  the  Connec- 
ticut River,  is  world-renowned  as  the  home  of  the  Estey 
Organ  Company.  The  business  of  making  melodeons 
began  here  in  1846,  and  three  or  four  years  later  passed 
into  the  hands  of  Jacob  Estey,  who  used  to  drive  about 
New  England,  "York  State,"  and  Canada,  selling  the 
products  of  the  works.  The  Estey  Organ  Company  now 
owns  14  great  factories,  with  a  capacity  of  1,800  organs 
a  month.  The  company  has  a  paid-in  capital  of  $1,000,000;  and  the  stock  is  all  owned 
in  the  Estey  family.  Col.  Julius  J.  Estey,  the  treasurer,  is  the  son  of  the  founder ;  and 
Lieut. -Gov.  Levi  K.  Fuller,  the  vice-president,  is  his  son-in-law.  The  products  of  the 
Estey  works  include  all  grades  of  instruments,  from  the  portable  organ,  which  may  be 
folded  up  and  carried  under  the  arm,  up  to  the  three  manual  organs,  with  pedals,  pipe- 
top,  and  other  accessories,  giving  a  compass  of 
great  volume  and  richness  of  tone.  Of  the 
parlor,  boudoir,  salon,  church,  philharmonic 
and  other  organs,  with  or  without  pipe-tops, 
each  has  its  own  special  adaptation  and  merits, 
and  all  are  characterized  by  rich  tone-effects, 
and  unusual  power  and  expression.  Some  are 
adapted  for  halls,  and  others  for  churches, 
lodges  and  societies,  wherever  grand  and  noble 
harmonies  and  accompaniments  are  desired.  BRATTLEBORO 


BURLINGTON  :     EPISCOPAL    INSTITUTE. 


ESTEY   ORGAN    COMPANY. 


The  great  section  of 
America  between  34°  and 
45°  (from  Cape  Fear  to 
Halifax)  originally  bore  the 
name  of  Virginia.  In  1606 
King  James  I.  divided  this 
empire  into  three  districts — 
that  from  34°  to  38°  being 
granted  to  the  London  Com- 
pany, that  from  38°  to  41°  remaining  as  neutral  ground, 
and  that  from  41°  to  45°  passing  under  the  control  of  the 
Plymouth  Company.  The  London  Company  sent  out  in 
1607  105  colonists,  under  Newport,  Gosnold,  and  John 
Smith,  and  they  settled  at  Jamestown,  on  the  James  River, 
where  a  ruined  church-tower  alone  perpetuates  the  memory 
of  the  city.  In  1609  the  London  Company  was  granted 
the  territory  for  200  miles  north  and  200  miles  south  of 
Old  Point  Comfort,  and  westward  to  the  Pacific;  and  sent 
over  500  emigrants,  of  whom  but  60  remained  a  year  later, 
when  Lord  De  la  Warre  arrived  to  govern  and  reinforce 
the  colony.  New  settlements  sprang  up,  at  Hampton, 
Dutch  Gap,  Bermuda  Hundred  and  other  points  in  the  in- 
terior. The  aboriginal  tribes  were  the  Powhatans,  in  Tide- 
water ;  the  Mannahacks  and  Monacans,  in  the  Midlands 
and  Piedmont ;  and  the  Cherokees  and  Algonquins  of  the 
Valley  and  mountains.  In  1619  a  Dutch  vessel  brought 
the  first  negro  slaves  to  Virginia ;  the  first  elective  body  in 
America  was  convened  from  the  eleven  plantations,  at 
Jamestown;  and  1,200  immigrants  arrived,  including  100 
felons  sent  from  English  prisons  for  planters'  servants,  and 
90  respectable  girls,  for  planters'  wives.  In  1622  Opecan- 
canough  and  his  Indian  warriors  slew  347  English  settlers 
in  a  single  night,  and  during  the  grievous  war  which  en- 
sued the  white  population  fell  away  from  4,000  to  2,500. 


STATISTICS. 

Settled  at Jamestown. 

Settled  in 1607 

Founded  by    ....   Englishmen. 
One  of  the  Original  13  States. 
Population  in  1860,      .     .     .  1,1596,318 

In  1870, 1,225,163 

In  1880, 1,512,565 

White,      .     . 

Colored 631 

American-born,     .     .     .  1,497,869 
Foreign-born,  ....       14,696 

Males, 745,589 

Females, 766,970 

In  1890  (U.  S.  census),      .  1,655,980 

White. 1,014,680 

Colored, 640,867 

Population  to  the  square  mile,     37.7 

Voting  Population,      .     .     .     334,505 

Vote  for  Harrison  (1888),       150,438 

Vote  for  Cleveland  (1888),     151,977 

Net  State  Debt,      .    .    .  $31,525,535 

Assessed  Valuation  of 

Property  (1890), 
Area  (square  miles),  . 
U.-S.  Representatives, 
Militia  (Disciplined), 
Counties,    ..... 
Post-offices,    .... 
Railroads  (miles),   .     . 

Vessels, 

Tonnage, 41,19° 

Manufactures  (yearly),      $51,810,692 

Operatives, 40,184 

Yearly  Wages,    .    .     .    $7,425,261 

Farm  Land  (in  acres),     .     19,910,700 

Farm-Land  Values,      $216,028,107 

Farm  Products  (yearly),  $45,726,221 

Public  Schools,  Average 

Daily  Attendance,  .    .     .     195,525 

Newspapers, 262 

Latitude,  .  .  .  &°3i'  to  3c°27'  N. 
Longitude,  .  .  75°i3'  to  83037'  W. 
Temperature,  .  .  .  —5"  to  103° 
Mean  Temperature  (Richmond),  57" 

TEN  CHIEF  CITIES  AND  THEIR   POPU- 
LATIONS.    (Census  of  1890.) 


$362,000,000 
42,450 


2,809 

IOO 

2,804 
3,160 
1,307 


Richmond,  . 
Norfolk,  .  . 
Petersburg,  . 
Lynchburg,  . 
Roanoke,  . 
Alexandria, 


81,388 
34.871 
22,680 
19,709 
16,159 
'4,339 


Portsmouth, 13,208 

Dansviile IO'3O5 

Manchester 9.24° 

Staunton, •  6.975 


In  1634  the  London  Company  was  arbitrarily  dissolved  by  a  writ  of  quo  warrant*,  and 
Virginia  became  a  Crown  Colony,  and  remained  such  for  nearly  150  years,  the  King  ap- 
pointing the  governor  and  council,  and  the  people  electing  the  House  of  Burgesses. 


JAMESTOWN 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

colony  remained  steadfast  to  the  Stuarts  until  a  fleet  arrived 
bearing  Parliament's  commissioners.  The  first  constitution 
dated  from  1621,  and  the  laws  were  codified  in  1632  and  1661. 
The  intolerance  of  the  Established  Church  of  England,  the 
rapacity  of  Lords  Culpeper  and  Arlington,  and  heavy  taxes  re- 
sulted in  Bacon's  rebellion.  The  advance  of  French  military 
posts  along  the  Alleghanies  led  to  war,  in  1754,  and  George 
Washington  led  the  Virginian  troops  in  an  attempt  to  recover 
the  colony's  outposts  on  the  upper  Ohio. 

Although  her  commerce  with  Britain  exceeded  that  of  any 
other  colony,  Virginia  took  a  leading  part  in  inaugurating  the 
Revolution,  and  the  Declaration  of  Independence  was  proposed 
in  Congress  by  her  deputies.  Lord  Dunmore,  her  governor, 
devastated  the  coast  with  fire  and  sword,  and  was  followed  in 
'F  CHURCH.  I779  bv  gir  George  Collier,  who  destroyed  Norfolk  and  Ports- 
mouth and  130  vessels  ;  and  Benedict  Arnold,  ascending  to  and  burning  Richmond  in  1781. 
Late  in  1781  Lord  Cornwallis  and  7,000  British  and  German  troops  fortified  York  town, 
where  he  was  besieged  by  an  American  and  French  army  of  1 6,000  men,  under  Washing- 
ton and  Rochambeau.  After  much  hard  fighting  and  a  series  of  terrific  bombardments, 
Cornwallis  was  compelled  to  surrender  his  army,  with  235  cannon  and  28  standards.  The 
noble  monument  on  the  Yorktown  field  was  designed  by  J.  Q.  A.  Ward,  sculptor,  and  R. 
M.  Hunt  and  Henry  Van  Brunt,  architects,  and 
dedicated  in  1885. 

After  the  Revolution  Virginia  ceded  to  the 
United  States,  Kentucky  and  the  vast  domains 
northwest  of  the  Ohio.  In  1790  this  Common- 
wealth was  by  far  the  most  populous  in  the  Union, 
having  more  inhabitants  than  New  York  and 
Massachusetts  united,  or  Pennsylvania  and  New 
Jersey.  This  supremacy  she  held  until  1820,  when 
New  York  passed  her.  Ten  years  later,  Pennsyl- 
vania also  moved  ahead  of  her.  In  1840  Ohio, 
and  in  1860  Illinois,  showed  populations  exceed- 
ing Virginia's,  and  in  1870  the  Old  Dominion  stood  tenth  in  the  list  of  States.  In  1890, 
she  is  fifteenth. 

Early  in  1861  the  people  of  Virginia  refused,  by  a  majority  of  60,000,  to  secede  from 
the  Union ;  but  a  few  weeks  later,  when  the  Commonwealth  was  full  of  troops  from  the 
Gulf  States,  and  blood  had  been  sprinkled  in  the  faces  of  the  people,  she  was  "dragooned 
out  of  the  Union  "  (as  Farragut  said). 

Fitzhugh  Lee  says :  "Virginia  in  1861  was  a  Union  State,  and  she  pleaded  for  the  pres- 
ervation of  the  Union.  Her  convention  which  assembled  to  take  into  consideration  the 
subject  had  a  large  majority  of  Union  men  in  it.  It  was  only  when  Mr.  Lincoln  called  for 

troops  that  this  majority  was  changed,  and  Virginia  de- 
cided by  an  almost  unanimous  vote  that  if  war  was  to 
be  made  upon  the  Southern  States  she  would  cast  her 
lot  with  them,  though  she  knew  that  her  soil  would  be  the 
battle-field.  It  was  but  natural  that  a  State  which  had 
so  much  to  do  with  the  formation  of  the  American 
Union  should  have  formed  a  deep  attachment  for  the  unity 
of  the  Republic,  and  when  she  finally  decided  to  with- 
draw from  the  Union  it  was  in  the  exercise  of  a  right  re- 
MOUNT  VERNON  \  THE  TOMB  OF  WASHINGTON,  served  by  her  when  she  ratified  the  Federal  Constitution. " 


MOUNT    VERNON   : 
THE    HOME   OF   GEORGE    WASHINGTON. 


NORFOLK:   ST. -PAUL'S  CHURCH. 


THE  STATE   OF    VIRGINIA. 

The  Norfolk  Navy-Yard  and  Harper's-Ferry  Ar- 
senal were  destroyed  by  the  National  officials ;  and 
Fort  Monroe  remained  in  the  hands  of  its  garrison. 
During  the  long  and  terrible  war  that  ensued,  Virginia 
suffered  more  than  any  other  State,  losing  many  thou- 
sands of  her  bravest  men,  and  $300,000,000  worth  of 
property,  besides  having  a  vast  area  dismembered  from 
her,  and  formed  into  a  new  State.  In  May,  1861,  the 
Federal  troops  occupied  Alexandria,  and  in  June  Ohio 
troops  moved  into  Western  Virginia.  Pennsylvanians 
took  Harper's  Ferry  ;  but  Butler's  advance  from  Fort 
Monroe  suffered  defeat  by  the  Confederates  at  Big  Bethel.  July  2ist,  McDowell's  28,000 
Federals,  marching  from  Washington  toward  Richmond,  were  defeated  by  Beauregard's 
Confederates,  at  Bull  Run,  and  thrown  back  in  rout  to  the  National  capital.  In  October, 
Stone's  Federal  army,  crossing  the  Potomac  near  Leesburg,  was  shattered  at  Ball's  Bluff, 
and  driven  into  the  river.  In  March,  1862,  the  Confederate  iron-clad  Virginia  (the  old 
Merrimac)  scattered  the  United-States  fleet  near  Fort  Monroe,  sinking  the  frigates  Cum- 
berlandand  Congress,  and  was  then  checked  by  the  iron-clad  turret-ship  Monitor.  A  few 
weeks  later,  the  Federal  troops  occupied  Norfolk ;  and  McClellan's  enormous  army  moved 

up  the  Peninsula,  taking  Yorktown  and  Williams- 
burg,  and  reaching  within  a  few  miles  of  Richmond. 
Here  his  125,000  men  were  checked  by  Johnston's 
90,000  Confederates,  in  the  battle  of  Fair  Oaks, 
where  10,000  men  were  killed  or  wounded.  Nearly 
a  month  later,  when  the  Union  pickets  were  within 
four  miles  of  Richmond,  Lee  fell  upon  McClellan 
and  drove  him  off,  in  the  terrible  Seven  Days'  Battles 
in  which  34,000  men  fell,  in  the  two  armies.  During 
this  time  Stonewall  Jackson  had  been  out-manceuvring 
and  out-fighting  Banks,  Fremont  and  Shields  in  the 
Valley  of  Virginia.  On  his  departure  for  Richmond, 
the  Federal  forces  in  the  north  were  formed  into  Pope's  Army  of  Virginia,  whose  advancing 
columns  were  checked  at  Cedar  Mountain  (August  Qth),  and  driven  back,  bravely  fighting, 
to  Washington.  Part  of  McClellan's  army,  brought  around  by  sea  from  the  Peninsula,  re- 
enforced  the  retreating  forces,  and  the  second  battle  of  Bull  Run  resulted  in  a  gloomy  de- 
feat for  the  National  army,  which  lost  15,000  men  in  the  campaign.  When  Lee  lay  near 
Culpeper,  after  Antietam,  the  Federal  army  endeavored  to  flank  him  by  Acquia  Creek ; 
and  Burnside  lost  12,000  men  in  heroic  assaults  on  the  heights  back  of  Fredericksburg 
(December  13,  1862).  May  2-4,  1863,  the  Federal  army  (under  Hooker)  moved  around 
Fredericksburg,  and  got  on  Lee's  lines  of  communication, 
only  to  suffer  another  appalling  defeat,  at  Chancellors- 
ville,  losing  17,000  men  to  the  confederates  13,000.  After 
Gettysburg,  Meade  followed  Lee  to  the  Rapidan,  sparring 
for  a  hold.  Then  Grant  took  command,  and  advanced 
from  Culpeper  with  125,000  men  and  350  guns,  and 
drove  and  outflanked  Lee's  army  through  the  Wilder- 
ness and  down  to  the  James  River,  but  lost  60,000  men 
within  five  weeks.  While  Grant  was  crushing  his  way 
through  the  Wilderness,  Sigel  advanced  up  the  Valley, 
until  Breckinridge  defeated  him  at  Newmarket  :  and 

Crook  moved  up  the  Kanawha,  from  Charleston,  W.  ALEXANDRIA 

Va.,  until  Early  drove  him   back.     Hunter   combined     CHURCH  WHERE  WASHINGTON  WORSHIPPED. 


RICHMOND:   ST. -JOHN'S  CHURCH. 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


these  two  armies  (in  June,  1864)  and  attacked  Lynchburg.     The  long  siege  of  Petersburg 
followed,  from  June  to  April,  with  almost  continuous  fighting.    In  August,  1864,  Sheridan 

annihilated   Early's  army,   in  the  Valley,   in  a 
series   of    brilliant   battles.     At    last    Lee   was 
compelled   to    abandon    Petersburg   and    Rich- 
mond, and  retreat  towards  the  Alleghany  Moun- 
tains, hotly  pursued  by  Sheridan's  horse  and  the 
infantry  corps  of  the  Army  of  the  Potomac.     At 
Appomatox  the  National  armies  closed  around 
him,  and  the    remnant  of  the  heroic  Southern 
MONTICELLO  :  THE  HOME  OF  THOMAS  JEFFERSON.        army,   numbering    28,000  men,   surrendered  to 
Gen.  Grant.     Thus  ended  the  mighty  struggle,  to  which  the  United  States  sent  2,800,000 
men,  and  the  South  sent  nearly  1,500,000  men. 

After  the  war,  until  1870,  Virginia  comprised  the  First  Military  District,  under  Scho- 
field,  Stoneman  and  Canby,  -successively  ;  Gov.  Pierpoint,  the  executive  of  the  Virginia  Union 
men  (at  Wheeling,  1861-3,  and  at  Alexandria,  1863-5),  moving  to  Richmond,  where  he 
was  succeeded  in  1868  by  Henry  H.  Wells,  the  military  appointee.  A  new  constitution, 
abolishing  slavery,  was  ratified  by  the  popular  vote  in  1869;  and  in  1870  military  control 
ceased,  and  Virginia's  representatives  entered  Congress.  Gen.  Gordon's  phrase:  "Our 

civilization  that  began  with  Washington  and  ended  with 
Lee"  describes  the  passing  away  of  the  old  systems. 
Land  companies  are  now  laying  out  the  ancient  baronial 
estates ;  iron-kings  replace  the  landed  gentry ;  and  the 
pride  of  Virginia  is  in  her  smiling  fields  and  vineyards, 
commerce  and  manufactures,  and  strong  industrial  de- 
velopment. In  dreamy  old  Alexandria  historic  colonial 
houses  rise  amid  high-walled  rose-gardens,  along  the  un- 
changed Tory  streets  named  King,  Queen,  Royal,  Prince, 
Princess,  Duke,  Duchess  and  St.  Asaph,  with  their  pav- 
ing of  huge  stones.  Here  is  Christ  Church,  built  of  im- 
ported English  brick,  in  1773,  and  religiously  preserving 
Washington's  pew.  In  sight,  up  the  broad  Potomac,  rise  the  vast  marble  palaces  of  the 
American  capital ;  and  along  the  heights  toward  Annandale  and  Fairfax  are  the  fading 
ruins  of  the  forts  erected  in  1861-3.  A  few  miles  up  the  river,  overlooking  Washington, 
stands  the  Arlington  mansion,  b'uilt  by  G.  W.  P.  Custis,  and  for  many  years  the  home  of 
his  son-in-law,  Robert  E.  Lee ;  and  now  surrounded  by  the  graves  of  thousands  of  Union 
soldiers.  A  few  miles  down  the  stream,  overlooking  the  noble  Potomac  for  many  a  silvery 
league,  rises  Mount  Vernon,  the  home  of  George  Washington  from  1752  until  his  death  in 
1799,  with  its  many  memorials  of  the  great  founder  of  the  Republic,  its  quaint  old-time 
gardens  and  high-colonnaded  verandas.  The  estate  was  bought  in  1856  by  the  Ladies' 
Mount-Vernon  Association,  composed  of  women  from  30  States, 
and  is  kept  open  to  the  people,  thousands  of  whom  come  hither 
every  month  to  see  Washington's  home  and  grave.  In  Fairfax 
Court-House,  still  standing  in  a  war-worn  village  twelve  miles 
west  of  Alexandria,  Washington  received  his  first  military  com- 
mission. Within  a  few  miles  are  the  battlefields  of  Bull  Run, 
Chantilly,  Drainesville  and  other  hard-fought  engagements  of  the 
late  civil  war.  Away  down  on  the  Northern  Neck,  beyond  the 
Occoquan  Forest,  the  level  lowlands  of  Westmoreland  County 
stretch  from  the  Potomac  to  the  Rappahannock,  and  contain  the 
birthplaces  of  Washington,  Monroe,  and  Light-Horse  Harry  Lee.  HAMPTON  : 

Point   Comfort  was  so  named  in    1608,    by  Capt.    John   Smith,  ST. -JOHN'S  CHURCH. 


WHITE    HOUSE:      ST. -PETER'S    CHURCH. 


THE  STATE  OF   VIRGINIA. 


853 


FAIRFAX    COURT-HOUSE. 


because  his  storm-tossed  boats  found  safe  shelter  here  ; 
and  later,  when  another  Point  Comfort  was  found, 
under  similar  circumstances  of  peril,  the  first-named 
locality  became  Old  Point  Comfort. 

St.  John's  Episcopal  Church  at  Hampton  dates 
from  1658,  and  is  of  red  and  gray  glazed  English  brick, 
with  a  memorial  window  representing  the  baptism  of 
Pocahontas.  St.  Luke's,  in  Isle-of- Wight  county, 
built  in  1632,  lifts  its  Norman  tower  over  a  grove  of 
oaks,  and  enjoys  the  honor  of  being  the  most  ancient 
Protestant  church  in  America. 

Williamsburg,  on  the  Peninsula,  the  ancient  capital 
of  Virginia,  and  the  scene  of  Hooker's  and  Kearny's  desperate  battle  during  the  civil  war, 
contains  the  quaint  old  magazine  built  by  Gov.  Spotswood  in  1714;  a  battered  statue  of 
Lord  Botetourt,  dating  from  1770;  the  venerable  Christ  Church,  built  in  1678  ;  and  other 
memorials  of  antiquity.  Seven  miles  distant  is  the  ivy-clad  church-tower  (built  before  1620) 
of  Jamestown,  the  first  settlement  in  Virginia,  rising  above  a  lonely  desolation.  The  Ran- 
dolph mansion  on  Malvern  Hill  was  built  in  1730,  of  imported  brick,  by  Wm.  Randolph, 
Treasurer  of  Virginia,  and  overlooks  a  vast  expanse  of  the  James>alley.  It  was  Lafayette's 
headquarters  in  1781,  and  McClellan's  in  1862. 

Berkeley  was  granted  by  the  Crown  to  the  Merchants'  Trading 
Company,  and  by  them  sold  to  Benjamin  Harrison,  in  1645,  the 
estate  including  8,000  acres,  and  reaching  from  the  James  to  the 
Chickahominy.  The  present  mansion  dates  from 
1723,  and  was  a  favorite  haunt  of  Patrick  Henry, 
the  birthplace  of  the  first  President  Harrison, 
and  the  headquarters  of  Gen.  McClellan.  Pow- 
hatan  was  the  most  powerful  chief  of  the  Virginia 
Indians,  and  his  daughter,  Pocahontas,  married 
John  Rolfe,  an  English  colonist.  Many  Virginian 
patricians  claim  descent  from  this  native  princess. 
President  Benjamin  Harrison  is  her  great -great- 
great-great-great-great-great-great  grandson. 

The  Name  of  Virginia  was  given  by  Queen 
Elizabeth,  in  1584,  after  Capts.  Amadas  and  Bar- 
low (of  Ralegh's  fleet)  had  informed  her  of  the  beauties  of  the  newly  discovered  country. 
It  was  a  memorial  of  her  own  unmarried  condition.  Spenser  dedicated  the  Faerie  Queene 
to  " Elizabeth,  by  the  Grace  of  God,  Queene  of  England,  France  and  Ireland,  and  of 
Virginia."  The  title,  OLD  DOMINION,  refers  to  the  loyalty  of  Virginia  to  the  Stuart 
dynasty,  in  holding  allegiance  thereto,  even  after  Charles  I.  was  beheaded,  and  in  proclaim- 
ing Charles  II.  "King  of  England,  Scotland,  Ireland  and  Virginia"  before  he  had  been 
allowed  to  return  to  his  throne.  The  colonial  tradition  avers  that  at  his  coronation  he 
wore  a  robe  made  of  Virginian  silk.  The  State 
is  also  called  THE  MOTHER  OF  PRESIDENTS, 
because  four  out  of  the  first  five  presidents 
of  the  Republic  (Washington,  Jefferson,  Madi- 
son and  Monroe)  were  natives  of  her  soil. 
Each  of  these  served  for  two  terms.  The 
first  Harrison,  Tyler  and  Taylor  were  also 
born  in  Virginia. 

The  Arms   of  Virginia  were  devised  in 
1776,  and  show  Virtus,  the  genius  of  the  Com- 


MALVERN    HILL  :     THE    MALVERN    HOUSE. 


PORTSMOUTH    (GOSPORT) :     NAVY    YARD. 


854 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF' THE    UNITED   STATES. 


monwealth,  dressed  like  an  Amazon,  resting  on  a  spear 
with  one  hand,  and  holding  a  sword  in  the  other,  and 
treading  on  Tyranny,  represented  by  a  man  prostrate,  a 
crown  fallen  from  his  head,  a  broken  chain  in  his  left 
hand,  and  a  scourge  in  his  right.  The  motto  is  Sic  SEMPER 
TYRANNIS  :  "Thus  be  it  ever  to  Tyrants." 

The  Governors  of  Virginia,  from  1606  to  1776,  in 
eluded  52  nobles,  knights  and  gentlemen  of  Great  Britai 
and  the  Province.  They  were  followed  by  Patrick  Henry 
1776-9;  Thomas  Jefferson,  1779-81;  Thomas  Nelson 
ARLINGTON  :  MONUMENT  TO  UNKNOWN  DEAD.  1 78 1-2  ;  Benj.  Harrison,  1782-4  ;  Patrick  Henry,  1784-6 
and  Edmund  Randolph,  1786-88.  The  State  Governors  have  been:  Beverley  Randolph 
1788-91  ;  Henry  Lee,  1791-4;  Robert  Brook,  1794-6;  James  Wood,  1796-9;  Jas.  Monroe 


1799-1802;  John  Page,  1802-5;  Wm. 
James  Monroe,  1811 ;  Geo.  W.  Smith, 
C.  Nicholas,  1814-16;  James  P.  Pres- 
1819-22  ;  Jas.  Pleasants,  1822-5  ;  John 
John    Floyd,    1830-4;     Littleton    W. 
son  (acting),  1836-7  ;  David  Campbell, 
John    Rutherford,    1841-2;    John   M. 
1843-6  ;  Wm.  Smith,  1846-9  ;  John  B. 
Henry  A.  Wise,  1856-60;  John  Letcher, 
Henry  H.  Wells,  1868-71 ;  Gilbert  C. 
1874-8;  F.  W.  M.  Holliday,  1878-82; 
hugh  Lee,   1886-90;   and  Philip  W. 
The  Topography  of  Virginia  is 
toward  the  west,  and  showing 
and   productions.      They  are 
die,   Piedmont,   Blue  -  Ridge, 
tions.       Tidewater     Virginia 
with    1,500    miles    of    tidal 
Chesapeake    Bays  and  their 
114  miles,  and  a  depth  inland 
dreds     of    minor   peninsulas 


H.Cabell,  1805-8;  John  Tyler,  1808-11 
1811;  Jas.  Barbour,  1812-14;  Wilso 
ton,    1816-19;    Thos.    M.    Randolph 
Tyler,  1825-7  ;  Wm.  B.  Giles,  1827-30 
Tazewell,  1834-6;  Wyndham  Robert 
1837-40;    Thos.  W.  Gilmer,    1840-1 
Gregory,    1842-3  ;    James   McDowel 
Floyd,  1849-52;  Jos.  Johnson,  1852-6 
1860-4;  Francis  H.  Pierpont,  1864-8 
Walker,    1871-4;    Jas.    L.    Kemper 
William   E.   Cameron,    1882-6;  Fitz 
McKinney,  1890-3. 
shown  in  six  great  divisions,  ascendin 
a  marked  difference  in  climat 
known  as  the  Tidewater,  Mic 
Valley  and  Appalachian  sec 
I,,   covers    11,350   square   miles 
f   shores   on   the   Atlantic    anc 
affluents,  having  a  frontage  o 
of  90  miles.     It  includes  him 
and   necks,    and     nine    grea 
two  counties  eastward  of  dies 


ones :    The    Eastern    Shore,  YORKTOWN  MONUMENT. 

apeake  Bay,  with  broad,  still  sounds  and  sandy  islands  and  sand-bars  facing  the  Atlantic 

Norfolk  Neck,  including  the  rich  lowlands  and  swamp-lands  between 

the  Atlantic  and  the  Nansemond  River;  the  Southside,  between  the 

Nansemond  and  James,  65  miles  long  and  from  35  to  40  miles  wide;  the 

Chickahominy,  between  the  James  and  the  Chickahominy,  50  miles 

long  by  from  five  to  15  miles  wide  ;  the  Peninsula,  next  north,  reaching 

to  the  York  and  Pamunkey,  100  miles  long  and  from  five  to  15  miles 

wide ;  the  King  William,  between  the  Pamunkey  and  Mattapony,  60 

miles  long,  by  from  three  to  14  miles  wide  ;  the  Gloucester,  between 

the  Mattapony  and  Pianketank,  70  miles  long,  by  from  six  to  18 

miles  wide ;  the  Middlesex,  60  miles  long,  by  from  three  to  ten     Ju 

miles  wide ;  and  the  famous  Northern  Neck,  75  miles  long  and    J^B 

from  six  to  20  miles  wide,  between  the  Rappahannock  and  Potomac    ''££ 

Rivers.    The  lands  were  once  far  more  rich  and  productive  than    -^£ 

now.     On  these  peninsulas  (and  especially  the  Northern  Neck) 

arose  the  stately  feudal  civilization  of  ancient  Virginia,  with  its 

now-ruined  parish-churches,    and  the  mansions  and  estates  of  NATURAL  BRIDGE. 


THE  STATE  OF   VIRGINIA. 


855 


the  Washingtons,   Lees,  Carters,  Fairfaxes,  Beverleys, 
Berkeleys  and  other  noble  families. 

Middle  Virginia  rises  above  the  Tidewater  counties, 
forming  a  pleasant  undulating  plain,  of  12,470  square 
miles,  ascending  on  the  west  to  the  Bull-Run,  Catoctin, 
Yew,  Buffalo  and  other  mountains,  bold  foot-hills  of 
the  Blue  Ridge,  running  from  the  Potomac,  near  Great 
Falls,  southwest  to  the  Dan,  west  of  Danville.  Pied- 
mont Virginia  forms  a  belt  of  6,680  square  miles  of 
picturesque  and  well-watered  valleys  and  plains,  run- 
ning southwest  from  the  Potomac  to  North  Carolina, 
244  miles,  and  25  miles  wide.  It  has  a  heavy  red  soil,  famous  for  apples,  grapes  and  grain ; 
and  its  elevated  coves  and  valleys  form  sanitariums  of  pure  dry  air.  From  the  high  western 
edge  of  the  Piedmont  country  the  Blue  Ridge  rises,  running  clear  across  the  State  for  310 
miles,  and  with  its  great  plateaus,  parallel  ridges  and  spurs  covering  2, 500  square  miles, 
at  an  average  height  of  2, 500  feet.  The  Ridge  where  the  Potomac  breaks  through  it,  at 
Harper's  Ferry,  is  1,460  feet  high,  and  rises  to  3,369  feet  at  Mount  Marshall,  near  Front 
Royal  and  Manassas  Gap.  The  Chesapeake  &  Ohio  Railroad  crosses  at  Rockfish  Gap, 
1,986  feet  above  the  tide;  and  the  water-gap  made  by  the  James  River  is  706  feet  high. 
Amid  the  beautiful  and  sequestered  valleys  in  this  region,  stand  many  fine  old  estates, 


ARLINGTON  I     NATIONAL  CEMETERY. 


like  Montpelier,  the  home 
Castle  Hill,  where  the  Rives 
ticello  is  an  imposing  coun- 
its  illustrious  founder,  which 
lies  Thomas  Jefferson, 
Independence,  of  the  statute 
Freedom,  and  the  founder  of 
The  Valley  of  Virginia, 
the  Alleghanies,  is  305  miles 
square  miles  of  rolling  plat- 
west,  broken  by  bold  de- 
peaks,  and  containing  the 


ARLINGTON  :     OLD    CU8TIS   (.LEE,)    MANSION. 


of  James  Madison,  and 
family  has  long  dwelt.  Mon- 
try-house,  near  the  tomb  of 
bears  the  inscription:  "Here 
author  of  the  Declaration  of 
of  Virginia  for  Religious 
the  University  of  Virginia." 
between  the  Blue  Ridge  and 
long,  and  covers  7,550 
eaus,  rising  from  east  to 
tached  mountain-ranges  and 


valleys  of  the  Shenandoah, 
James,  Roanoke,  Holston  (Tennessee),  and  Kanawha  (or  New)  Rivers.  The  fifteen  valley 
counties  have  singular  beauty  of  scenery,  their  deep  fore'sts,  rich  farms  and  pleasant  villages 
being  overlooked  by  the  majestic  Blue  Ridge  on  one  side,  and  the  long  uniform  lines  of  the 
Kittatinny  on  the  other,  with  the  lone  knobs  of  more  distant  ranges,  and  the  fortress-like 
ridges  rising  from  the  plains.  The  famous  Shenandoah  Valley  occupies  the  seven  counties 
in  the  northern  part  of  theValley  of  Virginia.  The  Caverns  of  Luray,  re-discovered  in  1878, 
near  one  of  the  battle-scarred  old  villages  of  the  Valley,  are  now  visited  yearly  by  thousands 
of  travellers,  resting  at  the  pretty  Luray  Inn.  The  unrivalled  stalactites  and  stalagmites  in 
1  'this  dark  studio  of  nature,"  reproduce  with  interesting 
likeness  fountains  and  geysers,  craters  and  cascades, 
gates  and  towers,  and  a  thousand  familiar  objects.  Halls 
and  avenues  extend  far  away  into  the  blue  silurian  lime- 
stone strata,  weirdly  illuminated  at  times  by  mag- 
nesium and  electric  lights,  and  apparently  upheld  by 
hundreds  of  stalagmitic  columns.  Weyer's  Cave  and 
Madison's  Cave  are  in  a  spur  of  the  Blue  Ridge,  in 
the  Valley  of  Virginia.  Weyer's  ranks  next  to  the 
Mammoth  and  Wyandotte  Caves  and  has  many  halls 
and  apartments,  adorned  by  the  most  brilliant  stalac- 
tites and  stalagmites.  The  Blowing  Cave,  farther 


SMITHFIELO   CHURCH. 


856 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 


RICHMOND  !    WASHINGTON    MONUMENT. 


south  in  the  valley,  pours  out  a  perpetual  rush  of  cold 
air  during  the  summer.  The  Crabtree  Falls  descend  from 
Pinnacle  Peak  in  a  dazzling  sheet  of  white,  falling 
3,000  feet  in  a  horizontal  distance  of  2,000  feet.  The 
Natural  Bridge  is  a  mighty  monolithic  arch  west  of  the 
Blue  Ridge  and  14  miles  from  Lexington,  in  a  region  of 
cascades  and  caverns,  and  deep  pine- woods,  1,500  feet 
above  the  sea.  It  is  215^  feet  high,  and  100  feet  wide, 
and  with  a  span  of  80  feet. 

Appalachian   Virginia,    or   the    Mountain    Region, 
covers  4, 500  square  miles,  in  a  belt  260  miles  long  and 
from  ten  to  50  miles  wide,  a  network  of  parallel  ranges, 
enclosing  long  and  narrow  valleys  which  run  northeast 
and  southwest.     Here  and  there  occur  charming  glens, 
like  Burke's  Garden,  near  the  head  of  Holston,  an  area 
of  30,000  acres  of  blue-grass  land,  surrounded  by  high  and  mural  mountain  escarpments. 
Tidewater  has  415,000  inhabitants,  and  Middle  Virginia  has  443,000,  more  than  half  of 
them   colored.      Piedmont  has  252,000(104,000  colored),  the  Blue  Ridge  40,000  (2,600 
colored),  the  Valley,  251,000  (51,000  colored),  and  Appalachia,  105,000  (9,000  colored). 

The  Eastern  Shore  of  Virginia  includes  the  counties  of  Northampton  and  Accomack,  a 
long  and  low-lying  peninsula  between  the  ocean  and  Chesa- 
peake Bay.  It  is  bordered  on  the  Atlantic  side  by  the  lagoon 
called  the  Broadwater,  outside  of  which  a  line  of  low  sandy 
islands  faces  the  ocean-surges.  Chincoteague  is  the  head- 
quarters of  many  sportsmen,  who  find  a  great  variety  of  game- 
birds  and  fish  among  the  inlets  and  along  the  desolate  islands. 
Hampton  Roads  is  the  deep  estuary  of  the  James  River,  where 
the  navies  of  the  world  might  ride  in  safety.  Into  this  bay 
opens  the  broad  Elizabeth  River,  with  the  deep  Norfolk  Har- 
bor 12  miles  up,  and  the  Norfolk  and  North-Carolina  Canals 
running  south  to  Pamlico  and  Albemarle  Sounds.  Norfolk 
ships  $5,000,000  worth  of  vegetables  every  year,  half  of  which 
comes  from  the  rich  truck-farms  in  the  country. 

The  James  River  rises  in  the  Alleghanies  ;  cuts  through 
the  Blue  Ridge  near  Lynchburg  ;  and  receives  scores  of  tributary  streams,  some  of  them  navi- 
gable, like  the  Appomatox  (to  Petersburg),  Nansemond  and  Chickahominy.  Vessels 
drawing  14  feet  can  ascend  150  miles,  to  Richmond.  The  York  River  may  be  ascended 
by  large  ships  40  miles,  to  its  head  at  West  Point,  whence  the  confluent  Mattapony  and 
Pamunkey  Rivers  are  navigable  for  about  30  miles  each. 

Large  vessels  can  ascend  the  Rappahannock  estuary  to 
Tappahannock,  its  port  of  entry  ;  and  steamboats  and  coasters 
go  up  to  Fredericksburg,  92  miles  from  the  bay.  Among  the 
mountains  of  the  southwest  rise  the  two  streams  whose  con- 
fluence forms  the  Tennessee  River.  The  Yadkin  and  Roanoke, 
rising  in  the  Blue  Ridge,  and  the  Meherrin,  Blackwater  and 
Nottoway,  in  southeastern  Virginia,  all  flow  across  the  border 
into  North  Carolina,  the  last  three  entering  the  Chowan  River. 
The  Dismal  Swamp  is  a  great  sponge-like  reservoir,  from 
whose  cypress  and  juniper  woods  fine  rivers  issue.  The  air  is 
free  from  miasma  ;  and  the  water  is  tinted  by  the  junipers  to 
a  pale  wine  color,  but  is  sweet  and  pure.  The  swamp  lies 
NATURAL  TUNNEL.  southwest  of  Norfolk,  and  covers  150,000  acres. 


RICHMOND  I     LEE    MONUMENT. 


THE  STATE   OF   VIRGINIA.  857 

The  most  extensive  and  valuable  oyster-beds  in  the  world  are  found  around  Chesapeake 
Bay.  Virginia  has  14,000  oystermen  (more  than  half  of  them  colored),  with  1,300  large 
boats  and  4,500  canoes,  taking  7,000,000  bushels  yearly.  One  fourth  of  this  product  is 
packed  in  cans.  The  tidal  waters  are  rich  in  shad,  sturgeon,  herring,  rockfish,  perch, 

chubs,  spotfish,  bass,  and  other  fish,  of  which  over 
$1,000,000  worth  are  caught  yearly.  Terrapin,  lobsters 
and  crabs  also  abound  in  these  waters ;  and  canvas-back 
duck  teem  in  the  lagoons. 

The  Climate  of  the  peninsulas  between  the  James 

~Pils  .  ^^M^liAj^*  i  \  and  the  Potomac  is  mild  in  winter  and  miasmatic  in  sum- 
mer. Malaria  also  lurks  about  the  great  swamps  in 
the  south  and  southeast,  although  the  vicinity  of 
Hampton  Roads  is  healthful.  The  mountains  shield 
the  Valley  of  Virginia  from  the  cold  blasts  of  winter, 
while  they  also  lift  it  up  to  an  altitude  which  ensures 
coolness  in  summer. 

Agriculture  is  favored   by  short  winters,  long 
growing  seasons,  and  abundant  rains.     The  Valley  of 

Virginia,  with  its  rich  limestone  soil,  is  one  of  the  finest  farming  regions  in  the  Atlantic 
States,  yielding  great  crops  of  cereals.  The  Tidewater  counties  produce  great  quantities  of 
early  fruits  and  vegetables,  which  are  sent  to  the  Northern  cities.  The  wild  Scuppernong 
grapes  of  the  seaboard  are  made  into  wine ;  and  Piedmont  (and  especially  Albemarle)  has 
extensive  vineyards,  orchards,  and  peach-groves.  Peanuts  grow  abundantly  on  the  light 
and  sandy  soils  of  the  southeast,  the  product  exceeding  $2,500,000  a  year.  This  industry 
has  risen  since  the  civil  war,  and  since  1880  the  consumption  in  the  United  States  has 
increased  from  2,000,000  to  5,000,000  bushels.  The  chief  markets  are  Norfolk  and  Peters- 
burg. The  nuts  are  polished  and  freed  from  earth  in  large  iron  cylinders,  the  discolored  ones 
being  used  in  confectionery.  There  are  three  varieties,  white,  red  and  Spanish,  and  they 
average  40  bushels  to  the  acre.  A  fine  table  oil  is  extracted  from  them ;  and  locally  they  are 
used  for  flour,  in  making  biscuit. 

The  Virginia-leaf  tobacco  is  famous  the  world  over  for  its  excellence.  The  best  grades 
grow  in  the  Middle  and  Piedmont  districts,  and  the  mountain  and  valley  belts  produce  im- 
mense crops  of  coarse  and  heavy  tobaccos.  Blue  grass  abounds  in  the  centre  and  west, 
making  dairying  and  stock-raising  important  industries.  The  State  has  251,000  horses, 
valued  at  $12,000,000;  590,000  cattle,  at  $7,000,000;  340,000  sheep  and  417,000  hogs. 

Great  areas  of  Virginian  land  are  covered 
with  valuable  and  productive  forests,  the  yellow 
Virginia  pine  and  the  black  and  red  oaks  of 
the  lowlands  and  middle  region,  the  oaks  and 
hickories  of  the  Piedmont  and  Blue  Ridge,  the 
hard  woods  of  the  Valley,  and  the  walnuts  and 
tulips,  buttonwoods  and    pines   of  the  Alle- 
ghanies.     The  forests  of  the  Dismal  Swamp 
produce  enormous  quantities  of  pine  and  cypress,  and  are  trav- 
ersed by  two  narrow-gauge  railways  from  Suffolk.    The  sparsely 
settled  southwestern  counties  are  covered  with  heavy  hardwood 
forests  and  great  areas  of  white  pine.     The  chief  wild  animals 
are  black  bears  and  deer,  wild-cats   and  wolves,  opossums  and 

ground-hogs,  otter  and  beaver,  foxes  and  muskrats,  rabbits  and  squirrels.  Thousands  of 
tons  of  sumac  leaves  are  sent  from  Virginia  every  year,  successfully  competing  with  the 
sumac  of  Sicily  for  the  use  of  tanners  and  morocco-dealers.  Sassafras  oil  is  another  valu- 
able article  of  commerce. 


858 


KING^S  HANDBOOK   OF-  THE   UNITED   STATES. 


CLIFTON    FORGE  : 
WATER    GAP,   JAMES    RIVER. 


Minerals. —  Iron  ores  are  found  in  remarkably  rich  deposits  among  the  mountains,  in 
unbroken  beds  from  20  to  100  feet  thick  and  many  miles  long.  The  western  foot-hills  of 
the  Blue  Ridge  for  300  miles  are  lined  with  brown  hematite  ore,  and  solid  masses  appear 
along  the  Alleghanies.  The  production  of  pig-iron  in  Virginia  has  risen  from  30,000  tons 

in  1880  to  nearly  160,000  tons,  besides  40,000  tons  of  rolled  iron. 

Iron  can  be  made  here  at  from  $11  to  $13  a  ton,  at  the  local 

blast-furnaces. 

The  Flat-top  coal-field,   developed  at  Pocahontas  in   1883, 

has  sent  out  nearly  1,400,000  tons  in  a  single  year,  equally  good 

for  steam  purposes  and  for  coking. 

Over  $2, 000,000  worth  of  Virginian  gold  has  been  sent  to  the 

mint.     Many  mines  have  been  opened  along  the  great  gold-belt, 

2OO  miles  long,  from  the  Potomac  to  the  Dan.      Sulphuret   of 

copper  (white   pyrites)   has   been  mined  and  reduced   at   the 

Arminius  mines,  in  Louisa  County. 

The  largest  lead-mines  in  the  South  are  in  Wythe  County. 

The  chief  manganese  mines  in  the  world  occur  at  Crimora,  near 
the  Blue  Ridge,  and  Waynesborough,  which  produce  20,000  tons  yearly.  The  Holston-River 
gypsum-fields,  around  Saltville,  send  out  yearly  thousands  of  tons  of  plaster,  of  great  value 
in  fertilizing  land.  The  southwest  produces  large  quantities  of  salt,  from  the  brine  rising  in 
artesian  wells.  Nearly  the  whole  Confederacy  east  of  the  Mississippi  was  supplied  thence, 
during  the  Secession  War.  This  region  is  also  famous  for  beds  of  gypsum.  Zinc  and  lead 
ores  are  mined  on  New  River.  The  fine  gray  granite  of  Richmond  and  Petersburg, 
brownstone  of  Manassas,  fertilizing  marls  and  green-sands  of  Tidewater,  hydraulic  cement  of  - 
Balcony  Falls,  building-lime  of  Riverton  and  Eagle  Rock,  baryta  of  the  Valley,  pyrites  of 
Louisa,  asbestos  of  Pittsylvania,  and  slate  and  soapstone  of  Albemarle  all  have  value. 

Pleasure-Resorts.  —  Old  Point  Comfort  has  been  for  many  years  one  of  the  most 
famous  pleasure-resorts  on  the  American  coast,  frequented  by  well-to-do  Northerners  in 
winter  and  spring,  and  by  the  flower  of  Southern  aristocracy  in  summer.  Its  huge  Hygeia 
Hotel,  with  quarters  for  1,000  guests,  stands  within  biscuit-toss  of  Fort  Monroe,  and  faces 
Hampton  Roads,  which  afford  safe  harbor  for  countless  vessels,  from  warships  to  yachts. 
The  old  Hygeia  Hotel  was  built  in  1821,  by  the  post-sutler,  and  soon  attained  great  favor,, 
when  the  English,  French  and  Spanish  fleets  came  to  Hampton  Roads  every  season. 

In  1862  the  hotel  was  demolished,  to  give  opportunity  for  the  batteries  to  fire  on  that 
side.  In  1864  the  Hygeia  again  loomed  into  notoriety,  between  the  grim  walls  of  the 
fortress  and  the  flashing  waters  of  Hampton  Roads.  The  late  Harrison  Phoebus  for  many 
years  owned  and  conducted  the  hotel,  which,  with  its  extensive  additions  and  improve- 
ments, at  his  death  in  February,  1886,  was  sold  to  the  Hygeia  Hotel  Company,  his  widow 
taking  the  largest  individual  interest.  It  is  now  managed  by  his  old-time  associate,  F.  N. 
Pike.  The  young  army-officers 
connected  with  the  United- 
States  Artillery  School  board 
at  the  Hygeia;  and  the  famous 
fort -band  furnishes  music  seven 
hours  in  each  day,  in  the  sea- 
girt pavilion  of  the  hotel. 
Among  the  entertainments 
found  here  are  attendance  on 
the  military  ceremonials  in  Fort 
Monroe  ;  steamboat  -  trips  to 
Norfolk,  and^Portsmouth  Navy 
yard  j  visits  to  the  immense  OLD  POINT  COMFORT  :  HYGEIA  HOTEL,  AND  FORT  MONROE. 


THE  STATE   OF   VIRGINIA. 


859 


ship-yards  at  Newport  News ;  excursions  to  Cape  Charles  ;  rides  to  ancient  Hampton,  the 
Soldiers'  Home,  and  the  famous  Hampton  School  for  Indians  ;  and  capital  bathing  and 
boating  in  the  blue  waters  which  sweep  up  almost  under  the  hotel. 

Nine  miles  distant,  at  Newport  News,  is  the  Hotel  Warwick,  a  summer-resort  look- 
ing out  on  the  James  River  and  Hampton  Roads.  Virginia  Beach  is  below  Cape  Henry, 
facing  the  Atlantic,  17  miles  by  rail  from  Norfolk.  It  is  a  fine  white  strand,  with  deep 
woodlands  behind  and  rolling  surf  before ;  and  guests  are  entertained  at  the  handsome  and 
modern  hotel  called  the  Princess  Anne.  On  the  lower  Potomac,  Colonial  Beach,  with  its 
hotel  and  cottages,  has  become  a  favorite  place  of  summer  rest  for  Washingtonians.  Inland 
are  several  popular  summer-resorts,  like  Buford,  with  its  great  Glendower  House,  near  the 
Peaks  of  Otter;  Liberty,  eight  miles  from  the  Peaks;  Roanoke,  in  the  lovely  Roanoke 
Valley  ;  Mountain  Lake,  4, 500  feet  high  on  the  Alleghanies,  near  Bald  Knob ; 
Wytheville,  with  its  dry  and  equable  winters  ;  Afton, 
high  up  on  the  Blue  Ridge ;  and  Harrisonburg,  in  the 
Valley  of  Virginia. 

The  famous  mineral  springs  of  Virginia  are  found 
mostly  in  the  mountain-country.  Among  them  are  Blue- 
Ridge  Springs,  high  up  on  the  mountains ;  Coyner's 
Springs,  with  sulphur,  alum,  and  iron  waters ;  Farmville, 
with  the  strongest  lithia  water  in  America,  which  is  PORTSMOUTH  :  NAVAL  HOSPITAL. 

shipped  all  over  the  country ;  Lake  Springs,  near  Salem,  and  overlooking  the  Roanoke  Val- 
ley, with  iron  waters ;  Roanoke  Red-Sulphur  Springs,  ten  miles  from  Salem,  among  the  Alle- 
ghanies, and  famous  for  their  cures  of  consumption  ;  Alleghany  Springs,  on  the  headwaters  of 
the  Roanoke  ;  Montgomery  White- Sulphur  Springs,  2,000  feet  above  the  sea,  with  a  narrow- 
gauge  railway  down  to  the  valley ;  Yellow  Sulphur 
Springs,  3^  miles  from  Christiansburg,  with  a  new  hotel 
and  bath-houses  ;  New  River  (Eggleston)  White  Sul- 
phur Springs ;  Sweet  Springs  and  Sweet  Chalybeate 
Springs,  near  Alleghany  ;  Warm  Springs  (98°)  and  Hot 
Springs  (110°),  used  mainly  for  bathing;  Healing 
Springs,  a  mild  tepid  (85°)  water,  like  that  of  Ems ; 
and  Bath  Alum  Springs.  Elsewhere  in  the  Valley  are 
the  Rockbridge  Alum  and  Jordan  Alum,  and  the  Cold 
Sulphur ;  the  Stribling  and  Variety  Springs,  in  Augusta, 
and  farther  down  the  Shenandoah,  the  Orkney  and  the 
Rawley(iron)  Springs,  each  more  than  2,000  feet  above 
the  sea.  Bedford  Alum  Springs  are  close  to  the  an- 
cient hamlet  of  New  London,  which  was  once  captured  by  Tarleton's  British  cavalry,  and 
more  recently  shelled  by  Hunter's  Federal  batteries.  Near  by  is  the  Poplar-Forest  estate  of 
Thomas  Jefferson,  where  he  wrote  the  famous  Notes  on  Virginia. 

The  Government  is  administered  by  a  governor,  elected  by  the  people  for  four  years, 
and  eleven  executive  officers ;  the  General  Assembly  of  40  four-years'  senators  and  100  two- 
years'  delegates,  meeting  biennially ;  and  the  Supreme  Court  of  Appeals,  with  five  judges, 
and  county  courts  and  justices  of  the  peace.  The,  State  Capitol  is  a  handsome  old  classic 
building  in  a  park  of  eight  acres,  at  Richmond,  and  contains  the  State  Library,  of  40,  OOP 
volumes.  It  was  modelled  by  Thomas  Jefferson, 
after  the  Roman  Maison  Carrie,  at  Nimes. 

The  State  Penitentiary  near  Richmond  has  870 
convicts.  The  Asylum  for  the  Deaf,  Dumb  and 
Blind  is  at  Staunton.  The  Eastern  Insane  Asylum, 
founded  at  Williamsburg  in  1773,  is  the  oldest  in 
the  United  States.  The  Western  Insane  Asylum  CHARLOTTESVILLE  :  UNIVERSITY  OF  VIRGINIA. 


HAMPTON  :     NATIONAL    SOLDIERS'   HOME. 


86o 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


LEXINGTON  :    WASHINGTON  AND    LEE    UNIVERSITY. 


was  founded  at  Staunton  in  1828;  and  there  is  also  an  Asylum  at  Marion.     The  Asylum 
for  colored  lunatics  is  at  Petersburg. 

The  Virginia  Volunteers  include  the  First  Infantry,  of  Richmond,  six  companies  ; 
the  Third,  of  northern  Virginia  and  Danville,  eight  companies  ;  the  Fourth,  of  southeastern 
Virginia,  nine  companies ;  and  seven  unattached  companies.  The  First  Battalion  of  Ar- 
tillery has  five  batteries,  including  the  famous  Richmond  Howitzers  ;  and  the  First  Battalion 
of  Cavalry  has  five  troops.  There  are  two  battalions  (5  companies)  and  seven  companies 
of  colored  infantry. 

United-States  Institutions. —  Fort  Monroe  was  built  by  Gen.  Bernard,  formerly 
aid-de-camp  and  lieut. -general  of  engineers  under  Napoleon,  afterwards  for  many  years 
Chief  Engineer  of  the  United-States  Army,  and  subsequently  Minister  of  War  under  Louis 
Philippe  until  1837.  The  fortress  was  designed  to  defend  Hampton  Roads  and  Norfolk, 

to  cover  the  interior  navigation  between  Chesa- 
peake Bay  and  Pamlico  Sound,  and  to  afford  a 
naval  place  of  arms  and  rendezvous  between  the 
Middle  and  Southern  States.  Its  construction 
began  in  1819,  when  Monroe  was  President,  and 
the  works  have  cost  nearly  $3,000,000.  The  fort 
covers  80  acres,  with  granite  walls  35  feet  high, 
and  a  broad  encircling  moat.  On  the  seaward  fronts 
there  are  detached  casemated  batteries.  The  in- 
terior parade-ground  is  surrounded  by  barracks  and 
officers'  quarters,  and  dotted  with  large  live  oaks. 
The  United-States  Artillery  School  was  founded  at  Fort  Monroe  in  1824,  and  has  been  dis- 
continued when  the  armies  needed  all  their  officers.  It  is  now  a  school  for  the  practical 
study  of  artillery,  where  young  graduates  of  West  Point  are  sent  upon  application. 

At  Hampton,  two  miles  from  Fort  Monroe,  is  the  Southern  Branch  of  the  National 
Home  for  Disabled  Volunteer  Soldiers.  The  handsome  building  of  the  Chesapeake  Female 
College  was  the  nucleus  of  a  large  number  of  other  fine  buildings,  which  are  surrounded  by 
beautiful  flower-adorned  grounds  looking  out  on  the  historic  Hampton  Roads  and  Old  Point 
Comfort.  The  Ward  Memorial  Hall  contains  the  great  dining-hall  and  theatre.  The 
3,000  veterans  have  a  fine  military  band,  and  go  through  drills  and  inspections  in  true  military 
style.  In  the  beautiful  cemetery  adjoining  are  the  graves  of  over  6,000  dead  heroes. 

The  old  single-turret  monitors  Wyandotte,  ,<•  \\ 

Mahopac,  Manhattan,  Lehigh,  Canonicus  and 
Ajax  are  laid  up  in  ordinary  in  the  James 
River,  just  below  Richmond. 

The  United- States  Navy  Yard  at  Gosport, 
Portsmouth,  opposite  Norfolk,  was  founded 
by  the  British  before  the  Revolution,  and 
afterwards  used  by  the  Virginia  Navy.  In 
1801  the  Government  bought  it,  and  here  were 
built  the  St.  Lawrence,  Powhatan,  Colorado, 
Roanoke,  and  Richmond.  In  1 86 1  the  retreating  Federal  garrison  destroyed  the  yard,  and 
nine  warships ;  but  the  National  forces  reoccupied  it  about  a  year  later.  It  is  now  kept 
in  first-class  order,  with  large  shops  and  storehouses  and  docks.  There  is  a  very  spacious 
and  handsome  Naval  Hospital  near  by,  built  in  1828-9,  at  a  cost  of  $2,000,000,  and 
accommodating  600  persons.  It  is  surrounded  by  beautiful  grounds. 

The  National  Cemeteries  are  at  Arlington,  opposite  Washington,  with  16,292  graves;  at 
Alexandria,  3,524;  at  Ball's  Bluff  (near  Leesburg),  25;  at  City  Point,  5,158;  at  Culpeper, 
1,368;  at  Danville,  1,328;  at  Fort  Harrison,  817;  at  Fredericksburg,  15,273;  at  Glen- 
dale,  1,198;  at  Hampton,  6,174;  at  Poplar  Grove,  6,199;  at  Richmond,  6,542;  at  Seven 


LEXINGTON  \     VIRGINIA    MILITARY    INSTITUTE. 


THE  STATE   OF    VIRGINIA. 


86 1 


Pines,  1,371  ;  at  Staunton,  757;  at  Winchester,  4,481  ;  at  Yorktown,  2,183.  These  75,000 
men,  and  the  uncounted  myriads  lying  in  unmarked  graves  on  the  Peninsula  and  between 
the  Potomac  and  the  Rapidan,  are  a  part  of  the  cost  of  restoring  Virginia  to  the  Uniori  of 

States,  so  many  of  which  were  her  children. 

Education  is  conducted  under  the  system 
founded  in  1870,  with  primary,  intermediate, 
scientific  and  university  teaching,  administered  by 
the  Board  of  Education,  at  a  yearly  cost  of  above 
$1,500,000,  and  with  school-property  valued  at 
$2,000,000.  The  normal  schools  for  whites  are 
at  Farmville,  Williamsburg  and  the  University  of 
Virginia ;  those  for  colored  pupils  are  at  Hamp- 
ton and  Petersburg.  The  University  endowed  at 

SALEM  .  Henrico  in    1619,   and  the  projected  Accademia 

ROANOKE  COLLEGE  AND  ALLEGHANY  MOUNTAINS.  Virginiensis  et  Oxo nieusis,  planned  in  1621,  having 
come  to  naught,  in  1691  the  Colonial  Assembly  sent  Blair  to  England  to  secure  a  charter 
for  a  college.  Attorney-General  Seymour  demurred ;  and  when  the  envoy  suggested  that 
Virginians  had  souls  to  save,  he  roared:  "Souls!  Damn  your  souls!  Make  tobacco!" 
Nevertheless,  the  charter  was  given,  in  1693,  and  the  College  of  William  and  Mary,  well 
endowed  by  England  and  Virginia,  opened  its  courses  at  Williamsburg,  being  second  only 
to  Harvard  in  point  of  age.  William  and  Mary  of  England  gave  it  rich  gifts ;  and  Sir 
Christopher  Wren  designed  the  buildings.  For  over  a  century  this  was  the  chief  Southern 
school  of  statesmen,  with  President  Monroe,  Chief-Justice  Marshall,  Thomas  Jefferson,  the 
Randolphs  and  many  others  as  students, 
and  ( Jeorge  Washington  as  chancellor.  The 
institution  flourished  until  1860,  when  its 
professors  and  students  went  to  the  war. 
The  college  was  burnt,  and,  although  rebuilt 
after  peace  came,  financial  embarrassment 
closed  its  gates  within  a  few  years.  It  is 
now  used  as  a  State  Normal  College  for  men,  receiving 
$10,000  a  year  from  the  treasuryof  the  Commonwealth. 
The  University  of  Virginia  was  opened  in  1825, 
mainly  through  the  efforts  of  Thomas  Jefferson,  who 
founded  here  a  seat  of  the  highest  learning,  broad,  un- 
sectarian,  devoted  to  science  and  liberty,  and  "a  nursery 
of  republican  patriots,  as  well  as  genuine  scholars." 
lie  watched  over  it  with  zealous  care,  until  this  institution  became  (as  it  has  ever  since 
remained)  one  of  the  leading  intellectual  forces  of  America.  The  University  occupies  a  beau- 
tiful and  extensive  estate  in  the  foot-hills  of  the  Blue  Ridge,  close  to  the  interesting  old  town 
of  Charlottesville.  The  arrangement  of  the  buildings  is  almost  monastic  in  effect,  having 
four  parallel  ranges,  each  600  feet  long,  of  cell-like  one-story  dormitories  for  the  students, 
with  cloister-like  arcades  and  colonnades  stretching  along  their  fronts,  and  several  larger 
structures  breaking  the  sky-lines,  and  used  for  society  halls,  boarding-houses,  and  profes- 
sors' houses.  The  outer  buildings  front  on  the  roads,  the  inner  ones  on  a  great  lawn,  which 

is  dominated  at  one  end  by  the  Rotunda, 
modelled  nearly  after  the  Roman  Panth- 
eon, and  adorned  with  a  very  striking 
and  classical  marble  portico.  The  upper 
part  of  this  noble  building  contains  the 
library,  of  50,000  volumes,  in  a  circular 
hall  surrounded  by  Corinthian  columns, 

-.AMPTON  ;     NORMAL    AND    AGRICULTURAL    INSTITUTE.  nall>    bL 


CROZET  :     MILLER    MANUAL-LABOR    SCHOOL 


862  KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

and  adorned  with  portraits  and  Gait's  statue  of  Jefferson.  These  are  the  ancient  buildings 
of  the  University,  designed  by  Jefferson.  The  more  modern  additions  include  the  Lewis 
Brooks  Museum  of  Natural  History,  with  its  great  collections ;  the  observatory,  built  by  the 
munificence  of  Leander  J.  McCormick,  of  Chicago,  and  containing  one  of  the  largest  re- 
fracting telescopes  in  the  world ;  the  handsome  stone  chapel  in  Gothic  architecture ;  and 
the  experimental  farm.  The  University  has  30  professors  and  instructors,  and  460  students, 
15  of  whom  are  from  the  North.  Of  these  250  are  academical,  120  law,  100  medical,  30 
engineering,  two  pharmaceutical,  and  four  agricultural.  There  are  19  distinct  and  autonom- 
tic  schools,  on  the  elective  system,  and  several  post-graduate  courses.  White  male  students 
from  Virginia,  after  passing  an  entrance  examination,  are  taught  free  of  cost.  The  yearly 
income  of  the  University  is  $90,000;  and  $900,000  has  been  given  to  it  since  the  close  of 
the  war.  Among  the  many  munificent  gifts,  the  Hon.  Cyrus  H.  McCormick,  of  Chicago  (a 
Virginian  born),  gave  $40,000;  and  W.  W.  Corcoran,  of  Washington,  $60,000. 

The  first  classical  school  in  the  Valley  was  Augusta  Academy,  founded  in  1749,  by  the 
Scotch-Irish  Presbyterians.  This  institution  grew  into  the  famous  Liberty  Hall  Academy, 
which  George  Washington  endowed  with  a  large  property  given  to  him  by  the  State  of  Vir- 
ginia, after  which  (in  1813)  it  took  the  name  of  Washington  College.  Gen.  Robert  E.  Lee, 
late  commander  of  the  Confederate  army,  held  the  presidency  of  the  institution  from  1865 
until  his  death,  in  1870.  In  those  last  years,  Gen.  Lee  always  taught  his  young  Virginians 
loyalty  to  and  faith  in  the  United  States,  as  their  paramount  duties.  His  remains  lie  in  a 
crypt  under  the  college  chapel,  over  which,  and  visible  from  the  audience  room,  is  Valen- 
tine's noble  recumbent  statue  of  the  Southern  chieftain.  In  1871  the  Legislature  named 
the  institution  the  Washington  and  Lee  University.  George  Peabody,  of  Massachusetts  and 
London,  gave  it  $250,000,  and  Thomas  A.  Scott,  of  Pennsylvania,  gave  it  $60,000.  The 
property  of  the  University,  at  Lexington,  is  worth  $600,000. 

The  Virginia  Military  Institute,  founded  at  Lexington  in  1839,  bases  its  instruction  and 
government  upon  those  of  West  Point,  and  has  a  four-years'  course,  largely  devoted  to 
science  and  the  modern  languages.  There  are  400  cadets.  The  State  pays  $15,000  a  year 
for  the  board  and  tuition  of  50  students.  The  corps  of  cadets  marched  into  the  Valley, 
in  1864,  and  suffered  heavy  losses  in  Early's  campaign  against  the  United-States  forces; 
and  Gen.  Hunter's  Federal  army  destroyed  the  institute  buildings.  More  than  half  of  the 
graduates  were  killed  or  wounded  in  the  Secession  War. 

The  Virginian  Agricultural  and  Mechanical  College  and  the  United-States  Experiment 
Station  occupy  a  farm  of  325  acres  at  Blacksburg,  in  the  Valley.  There  are  1 10  students,  under 
military  instruction  and  discipline.  The  Miller  Manual-Labor  School  was  founded  by  private 
munificence,  at  Crozet,  in  1878,  and  has  above  200  students,  in  wood  and  iron- working  and 
agriculture.  The  endowment  is  $1,000,000.  Roanoke  College  pertains  to  the  Evangelical 
Lutheran  Church,  and  dates  from  1853.  It  is  at  Salem,  in  the  rich  and  picturesque  Roanoke 
Valley ;  and  has  a  Main  Building,  East  and  West  Halls,  and  the  Bittle  Memorial  Library 
(18,000  volumes),  in  pleasant  grounds  of  20  acres.  There  are  100  collegiate  students. 
Several  Mexican  and  Japanese  youths  have  studied  here  ;  and  it  is  a  favorite  school  for 
Choctaw  Indians,  whose  leading  men  have  been  graduates  of  Roanoke.  Randolph-Macon 
College  has  a  dozen  buildings,  on  an  oak-shaded  campus  of  12  acres,  in  the  pleasant  village 
of  Ashland,  16  miles  north  of  Richmond.  There  are  17  instructors  and  200  students.  The 
college  was  founded  by  the  Virginia  Methodist-Episcopal  Conference,  at  Boydton,  and 
named  for  the  representatives  in  Congress  of  the  neighboring  districts.  Stephen  Olin  was 
the  first  president,  from  1832  to  1838.  In  1868  it  was  moved  to  Ashland.  The  prepara- 
tory department  is  the  beautiful  new  Randolph-Macon  Academy,  at  Liberty.  Richmond 
College  was  founded  by  the  Baptists  in  1830,  and  took  its  present  name  in  1843.  Turned 
into  barracks  in  1861-5,  li  re-organized  the  year  after  the  war,  and  now  has  a  handsome 
modern  building,  on  a  campus  of  13  acres.  There  are  nine  professors  and  150  students, 
(mostly  Virginians), 


THE  STATE   OF   VIRGINIA.  863 

Emory  and  Henry  College,  named  for  Bishop  John  Emory  and  Patrick  Henry,  was 
founded  by  the  Methodists  in  1838,  in  a  beautiful  valley,  nine  miles  east  of  Abingdon. 
Hampden-Sidney  was  founded  as  a  Presbyterian  academy,  in  1776,  and  bears  the  names  of 
the  two  great  English  patriots.  It  became  a  college  in  1783,  and  occupies  a  domain  of  250 
acres,  not  far  from  Appomattox.  This  venerable  institution  has  six  professors  and  100 
students.  The  law-schools  are  at  Richmond,  Lexington  and  Charlottesville,  and  the  medi- 
cal colleges  at  Charlottesville  and  Richmond. 

The  Episcopal  Theological  Seminary  stands  on  the  heights  back  of  Alexandria,  com- 
manding a  grand  view  of  Washington  and  the  Potomac  River.  It  was  founded  in  1823,  and 
has  a  three-years'  course.  Salem  has  the  Lutheran  Theological  Seminary  (founded  at  Lex- 
ington, S.  C.,  in  1831).  Hampden-Sidney  has  the  Presbyterian  Seminary,  dating  from 
1824;  and  St. -John's  Theological  Seminary,  of  the  Catholics,  is  at  Norfolk.  The  Metho- 
dists have  divinity  schools  at  Randolph-Macon  and  Emory  and  Henry  Colleges. 

The  Hampton  Normal  and  Agricultural  Institute  was  opened  in  1868,  by  the  American 
Missionary  Association,  and  is  supported  in  part  by  the  State  of  Virginia,  as  an  agricultural 
school  for  negroes;  in  part  by  the  United-States  Government,  which  pays  the  personal  expenses 
of  1 20  Indian  students  ;  and  in  part  by  charitable  persons,  from  whom  it  receives  $60,000  a 
year.  It  is  not  a  Government  institution,  but  a  private  corporation,  owning  its  property, 
and  administered  by  17  trustees.  It  educates  by  self-help,  most  of  the  students  paying  by 
their  labor  for  their  board,  clothing  and  books.  It  aims  by  training  the  hand,  the  head  and 
the  heart  to  fit  selected  youth  of  the  Negro  and  Indian  races  to  be  examples  to,  and  teachers 
of,  their  people.  The  students  of  the  two  races  are  usually  kept  separate,  and  are  friendly, 
but  not  intimate.  The  school  was  founded  for  the  freedmen,  but  in  1878  Kiowa,  Cheyenne 
and  Sioux  Indians  were  added.  There  are  80  officers  and  about  700  students  (one  fifth  Indians), 
besides  300  in  the  preparatory  school.  The  students  include  both  boys  and  girls,  the 
former  being  drilled  in  a  battalion  of  six  companies,  under  an  army  officer.  The  property 
of  the  school  is  worth  $500,000,  and  includes  two  large  farms,  and  many  commodious  build- 
ings. The  founder  and  principal  .of  this  wonderful  school  is  Gen.  S.  C.  Armstrong. 

Railroads.  —  The  Atlantic  Coast  Line  is  a  splendidly  organized  service  on  various  con- 
necting routes,  giving  the  best  possible  convenience  for  travellers  between  New  England 
and  New  York  and  Charleston,  Savannah  and  Brunswick,  Mobile  and  New  Orleans,  and  the 
pleasure-resorts  of  the  Florida  peninsula.  To  make  this  long  and  important  national  route  of 
the  highest  utility,  the  independent  companies  over  whose  rails  it  passes 
•^^j  have  given  its  trains  the  right  of  way,  so  that  Pullman  sleeping  and 
buffet  cars  run  without  change  from  Boston  to  Jacksonville,  in  about  40 
hours.  This  is  the  favorite  route  from  the  great  Northern  cities  to  the 
capital  of  the  Old  Dominion,  the  chief  cities  and 
winter-resorts  of  the  Carolinas  and  Georgia,  and 
the  semi-tropical  beauties  of  the  Land  of  Flowers. 
At  Tampa  Bay  it  connects  with  steamships  for 
Key  West  and  Havana.  Travellers  along  the 
Eastern  sea-board  of  the  United  States  find  an 
ideal  route  in  the  Atlantic  Coast  Line.  This  grand 
combination  of  routes  was  planned  and  brought 
about  by  William  T.  Walters,  of  Baltimore,  and  his  following.  Mr.  Walters  is  now  the 
president  of  the  Atlantic  Coast  Line  Company,  and  a  managing  director  in  each  of  the 
dozen  or  more  corporations  now  united  under  this  control,  and  covering  the  South-Atlantic 
States  with  a  net-work  of  first-class  railways.  The  Norfolk  &  Western  Railroad  runs  from 
Norfolk  to  Lynchburg  and  the  mountains  of  Kentucky  and  Tennessee,  connecting  with  th 
East  Tennessee,  Virginia  &  Georgia  line  ;  and  down  the  Shenandoah  Valley  from  Roam 
into  Maryland.  The  Ches'apeake  &  Ohio,  from  Newport  News  through  the  mountains  tc 
Cincinnati ;  and  the  Richmond  &  Danville,  arc  important  routes. 


RICHMOND  .     ATLANTIC    COAST    LINE    DEPO1 


GLASGOW  : 
..    SQUIER  MFG.    CO. 


864  KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

The  Manufactures  of  Virginia  have  increased  very  much  since  the  war,  and  the  machine 
and  locomotive  works  of  Richmond,  Glasgow  and  Roanoke ;  the  tobacco-factories  of 
Lynchburg,  Petersburg  and  Danville  ;  the  Ilaxall  flour-mills  of  Richmond ;  are  famous. 

At  Glasgow,  Virginia,  is  to  be  the  great  plant  of  the  George  L.  Squier  Manufacturing 
Company,  the  famous  makers  of  rice,  sugar  and  coffee  plantation  machinery.  The  plant, 
with  its  seven  acres  and  its  well-constructed  brick  buildings,  will 
be  one  of  the  most  notable  enterprises  in  Virginia.  The  business 
was  established  in  1857,  at  Buffalo  (N.  Y.),  where  part  of  it  is  still 
conducted.  In  New- York  City  are  the  main  sales-rooms  and 
warehouses.  The  company  was  incorporated  in  1884,  and  has  a 
paid-in  capital  of  $200,000.  The  Squier  machinery  is  in  use  in 
every  tropical  country  and  island  of  the  world,  but  the  largest 
part  of  it  goes  to  Mexico  and  Central  and  South  America.  No 
house  in  America  makes  so  large  a  variety  of  the  machinery  used 
in  handling  rice,  sugar  and  coffee,  and  no  concern  controls  so  many 
patents  pertaining  to  vacuum-pans  and  pumps,  clarifiers,  evapora- 
tors, charcoal  and  bag  filters,  cane-mills,  double  and  triple  effects,  centrifugal  machines,  and 
steam  engines.  The  Squier  catalogues  are  in  English,  Spanish  and  Portuguese ;  and  the 
company  keeps  several  expert  engineers  setting  up  their  machines  in  the  tropics.  There  are 
loo  different  sizes  and  styles  of  sugar-mills,  and  other  machinery  in  proportion,  so  they  make 
several  hundred  different  machines,  adapted  to  various  countries.  Everything  needed  in  the 
rice,  sugar  and  coffee  industries  is  furnished  from  general  stock  or  especially  designed  to 
meet  any  requirements,  the  George  L.  Squier  Company  being  engineers  as  well  as  machinists. 
The  making  of  cigarettes  has  brought  a  world-wide  patronage  to  Richmond,  where  the 
old  house  of  Allen  &  Ginter  was  the  first  ever  to  use  for  cigarette-making  the  pure  and  aro- 
matic virgin-leaf  tobacco,  which  is  grown  exclusively  in 
Virginia  and  North  Carolina.  After  a  successful  career, 
the  house  has  become  the  Allen  &  Ginter  Branch  of  the 
American  Tobacco  Company,  having  $25,000,000  of 
capital,  and  which  owns  and  operates  practically  all 
the  cigarette  factories  in  this  country.  This  branch 
has  the  distinction  not  only  of  being  the  pioneer  in 
the  adoption  of  Virginia  tobacco  for  cigarettes,  but 
also  of  having  made  the  highest  grades,  and 
to-day  the  greater  part  of  all  the  highest 
cost  cigarettes  are  made  here.  The  finest 
cigarettes  are  hand-made,  and  it  is  remark- 
able to  see  the  speed  and  accuracy  attained 
by  the  long  rows  of  girls  who  roll,  paste, 
trim,  count  and  pack  the  famous  Richmond 
Straight  Cut  No.  I  cigarettes, 
a  brand  well-known  by  smok- 
ers everywhere.  Other  brands 
machinery.  There  are  em- 
all  white,  and  mostly  girls  of 
the  Allen  &  Ginter  Branch 
made  each  year,  mainly  of  the 
value  of  the  output  surpasses 


MAIN    FACTORY 


are    made    by   ingenious 

ployed   1,500   operatives, 

from  15  to  25  years.      At 

600, 000,000  cigarettes  are 

finest  qualities,  so  that  the 

that  of  any  cigarette  factory  in  the  world.      Besides  cigarettes,  of  which  there  are  a  number 

of  brands  and   varieties,   the  Richmond  Gem,  Curly  Cut,  and  fancy  mixtures  in  smoking 

tobaccos  are  also  produced.      Major  Lewis  Ginter,  one  of  the  founders  of  the  old  firm,  and 

John  Pope  are  the  managing  directors  of  this  branch  of  the  company. 


STORAGE    WAREHOUSE. 
RICHMOND  I     ALLEN    &    GINTER. 


There  was  a  Greek  mari- 
ner, Juan  de  Fuca  of  Cepha- 
lonia,  who  claimed  to  have 
explored  these  shores  and 
entered  the  Strait  in  1592. 
Bancroft,  Winsor  and  other 
authorities  maintain  that  he 
never  saw  the  Northwest 
Coast ;  yet  all  the  naviga- 
tors of  the  last  century  called  the  Strait  after  the  Cepha- 
lonian  pilot.  The  first  modern  explorer  of  the  Washington 
coast  was  Juan  Perez,  cruising  in  the  Spanish  transport 
Santiago,  in  1774.  A  year  later,  Bruno  Heceta  examined 
the  shores  for  a  great  distance.  In  1778  Capt.  James  Cook 
sailed  along  the  coast  in  the  Resolution,  a  British  naval 
vessel,  making  careful  explorations.  In  1787  Capt.  Bar- 
clay saw,  and  in  1788  Capt.  Meares  explored,  the  Strait, 
under  the  British  flag ;  and  fur-traders  cruised  along  the 
coast,  buying  sea-otter  furs  from  the  Indians. 

Now  at  last  the  Stars  and  Stripes  flashed  across  the 
Northwestern  seas,  when  six  Boston  merchants  sent  out 
Capt.  John  Kendrick  and  the  ship  Columbia,  and  Capt. 
Robert  Gray  and  the  sloop  Lady  Washington,  to  trade  with 
the  Indians  for  furs.  In  1789  Capt.  Gray  entered  several 
Washington  harbors  ;  and  two  years  later  he  discovered  and 
named  Gray's  Harbor,  and  ascended  for  25  miles  the  great 
river,  to  which  he  gave  the  name  of  his  ship,  the  Columbia. 
Spain  claimed  all  these  coasts  by  virtue  of  discovery,  and 
her  officers  erected  defences  on  Vancouver  Island,  and  cap- 
tured several  British  trading  vessels.  In  1790  Great  Britain 
extorted  from  Spain  a  treaty  allowing  her  people  to  trade  and 
settle  here.  In  1791-2  George  Vancouver,  an  officer  of  the 
British  navy,  explored  much  of  the  Northwest  Coast,  and 
the  island  which  bears  his  name  ;  and  took  formal  posses- 


.     .      Tumwater. 
New  Englanders. 


23,955 
75,116 
67,199 


Settled  at  .    . 
Settled  in  .     . 
Founded  by    . 
IJecame  a  State, 
Population,  in  1860, 
In  1870,   .... 

In  1880 

White,      .    .     . 
Colored,   .     .    . 

American-born,     .     .     .       59,312 
Foreign-born,   ....       15,803 

Males, 45,973 

Females, 29,143 

In  1890  (U.  S.  census),  .  349,390 
Voting  Population,  .  .  .  27,670 
Area  (square  miles),  .  .  .  69,180 
U.-S.  Representatives  (in  1893),  : 
Militia  (Disciplined),  .  .  1,14 

Counties, 34 

Post-offices, 701 

Railroads  (miles),  ....          1,783 

Vessels, 191 

Tonnage, 
Net  Debt  (1890),      .     .     .   $300,000 
Assessed  Valuation  of 

Property  (in  1890),    .  $125,000,000 

Farm  Land  (in  acres),    .     .  1,409,421 

Farm-Land  Values,    .     .$13,844,244 

Farm  Products  (yearly)    $4,212,750 

Public  Schools,  Average 

Daily  Attendance,  .    .    .      29,247 

Newspapers, J9<( 

Latitude,  ...  45°  40'  to  49°  N 
Longitude,  .  .  .  ii7°toi240W 
Temperature,  .  .  .  — 31°  to  104' 
Mean  Temperature  (Steilacoom),  51° 

TEN  CHIEF  CITIES  AND  THEIR  POPU 

LATIONS.    (Census  of  1890.) 

Seattle 42,83: 

Tacoma 36,006 

Spokane  Falls, 19,92: 

Walla  Walla, 4.7O9 

Olympia 4,69 

Port  Townsend 4.551 

Fairhaven 4>°7& 

Whatcom 4,£>59 

Vancouver, 3,54 

EHensburgh 2,768 


puu  of  the  country  from  39°  20'  to  the  Strait  of  Fuca,  in  the  name  of  the  British  Govern- 
ment. In  1805  Lewis  and  Clarke,  with  an  exploring  party  of  American  soldiers,  descended  the 
Clearwater,  Snake  and  Columbia  Rivers  to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  and  wintered  on  the  Coast. 


866 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


CAPE    FLATTERY. 


For  many  years  the  history  of  Washington  is 
only  a  record  of  the  Hudson-Bay  and  Northwest 
Companies  and  their  fur-trading  posts  and  explora- 
tions. Together  with  Oregon,  it  lay  in  the  terri- 
tory held  in  dispute  between  the  United  States  and 
Great  Britain,  and  jointly  occupied  by  their  citizens, 
until  1846,  when  it  was  definitively  taken  by  the 
American  Government.  The  growth  of  Washing- 
ton was  very  slow,  owing  to  its  inaccessibility,  until 
the  construction  of  the  railroads  eastward  to  Min- 
MOUNT  TACOMA,  OR  RAINIER.  nesota  and  southward  to  California.  Since  that 

time  a  healthy  and  prosperous  development  has  taken  place.  The  pioneers  of  Washington 
came  from  Maine,  Massachusetts,  and  other  New-England  States,  and  were  followed  by  a 
larger  immigration  from  Missouri  and  the  Middle  West.  Gen.  Isaac  I.  Stevens,  U.  S.  A., 
led  an  important  exploring  expedition  across  the  Rocky  Mountains  into  Washington  in 
1853,  and  held  the  governorship  of  the  Territory  for  four  years.  He  was  afterwards  killed 
at  the  battle  of  Chantilly,  Va.,  while  commanding  a  division  of  the  Army  of  the  Potomac. 
The  Name  Columbia  was  suggested  by  the  people  interested  in  having  the  new  terri- 
tory set  apart  from  Oregon  in  1853;  but  Representative  Stanton  of  Kentucky  objected, 
pointing  out  the  danger  of  its  confusion  with  the  District  of  Columbia,  and  saying  that  "it 
would  be  very  appropriate  to  name  a  Territory 
situated  on  the  distant  shores  of  the  Pacific 
after  the  Father  of  his  Country."  Representa- 
tive Stanly  added  :  "There  has  been  but  one 
Washington  upon  earth,  and  there  is  not  likely 
to  be  another ;  and,  as  Providence  has  sent  but 
one,  for  all  time,  let  us  have  one  State  named  after  that  one  man,  and  let  the  name  be 
Washington."  The  poetic  imagination  of  the  Northwestern  people  names  the  Walla-Walla 
country,  "the  Rhineland  of  America;"  and  Puget  Sound,  "the  Mediterranean  of  the  Pa- 
cific "and  the  "Gateway  of  the  World;" -and  the  ports  of  Seattle,  Tacoma  and  Port 
Townsend  are  called,  respectively,  "the  Queen  City,"  "theCity  of  Destiny,"  and  "the  Key 
City  of  Puget  Sound. "  For  many  years  the  people  west  of  the  Cascades  were  known  as  ' '  clam- 
eaters,"  and  those  on  the  east  as  "bunch-grassers."  At  the  Constitutional  Convention  of  1889 
an  attempt  was  made  to  have  the  Washingtonians  known  as  "  Chinookers. "  The  Chinook 
jargon  is  the  language  of  the  aborigines,  trappers  and  squaw-men  of  the  Northwest  Coast. 

The  United  States  early  proclaimed  the  Canal  de  Haro  to  be  her  northwestern  boundary, 
but  Great  Britain  insisted  that  it  should  be  the   Strait  of  Rosario.     The  Archipelago  de 

Haro   (or    San-Juan   Islands),   lying  between  these 
limits,  was  occupied  by  troops  of  the  two  powers, 
until  the  Emperor  of  Germany,  acting  as  arbitrator, 
in  1872,  adjudged  the  American  claim  to  be  right. 
The  Arms  of  Washington  bears  a  portrait  of 
George  Washington.   The 
motto  is  ALKI,  a  Chinook 
phrase,  meaning  "By  and 
By,"  "In  the  Future,  "or 
"Hereafter."  It  was  adopt- 
ed by  the  first  legislature, 
at  the  suggestion  of  Col. 
Michael  Simmons,  as  a  pre- 
sage of  the  future  greatness 
of  the  Commonwealth. 


HOTEL  TACOMA. 


867 


PUGET   SOUND. 


THE  STATE   OF    WASHINGTON. 

The  Governors  of  Washington  have  been: 
Territorial:  Isaac  I.  Stevens,  1853-7;  J-  Fatten 
Anderson,  1857;  Fayette  McMullin,  1857-61  ;  Rich- 
ard D.  Gholson,  1861 ;  Wm.  H.  Wallace,  1861  ; 
Wm.  Pickering,  1861-7;  Marshall  F.  Moore,  1867-9; 
Geo.  E.  Cole,  1869;  Alvin  Flanders,  1869-70;  Ed- 
ward S.  Salomon,  1870-1 ;  James  F.  Legate,  1871-2  ; 
Elisha  P.  Ferry,  1872-80;  Wm.  A.  Newell,  1880-4; 
Watson  C.  Squire,  1884-7  ;  Eugene  Semple,  1887-9  > 
Miles  C.  Moore,  1889-90;  Elisha  P.  Ferry,  1890-3. 

Descriptive. —  The  topography  of  Washington  possesses  features  of  great  interest,  in 
its  deep  salt-water  estuaries  and  sounds,  its  long  mountain-ranges,  and  the  illimitable  roll- 
ing plains  of  the  east.  The  State  is  350  miles  \ride,  from  Idaho  to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  and 
230  miles  long,  from  Oregon  to  British  Columbia.  It  is  larger  than  the  united  areas  of 
New  York,  Maryland  and  Massachusetts. 

The  Cascade  Range  divides  the  State  into  eastern  and  western  Washington,  differing 
in  climate  and  products,  soil  and  topography.  The  east  covers  a  wide  area  of  open  tillable 
and  grazing  lands ;  the  west,  broken  by  many  mountains  and  bays,  is  mantled  by  huge 
forests.  Fully  20,000,000  acres  are  covered  with  timber,  10,000,000  with  arable  lands, 
5,000,000  with  rich  river-bottoms,  and  10,000,000  with  wooded  mountains  and  mineral 
lands.  The  Pacific  coast  is  followed  by  a  broken  northern 
continuation  of  the  Coast  Range,  rich  in  forests,  and  reach- 
ing heights  of  from  3,000  to  5,000  feet.  This  rugged  penin- 
sula finds  its  garden-spot  in  the  famous  Chehalis  country, 
2,000  square  miles  of  rich  land  running  from  Gray's  Harbor 
to  the  Cascades.  In  the  extreme  north,  at  the  head  of  the 
peninsula  between  Puget  Sound  and  the  Pacific,  the  Olympic 
Mountains  cover  3,000  square  miles,  and  their  thickets  and 
wide  belts  of  timber  long  retarded  exploration.  Nearly  all 
the  year  long  these  untrodden  peaks  are  crowned  with  dazzling 
snow,  and  stand  ranked  like  lines  of  battle  along  the  Pacific, 
THE  SNAKE  RIVER.  the  Strait  and  the  deep  and  dark  Hood's  Canal.  The  long 

valley  between  the  Cascade  and  Coast  Ranges  is  a  thickly  populated  and  pleasant  farming 
country,  50  or  60  miles  in  width,  favored  by  a  delightful  climate,  and  including  the  chief 
cities  and  oldest  settlements.  The  great  volcanic  plateau  of  the  Cascade  Range  runs  north 
and  south,  covered  on  both  sides  with  heavy  forests,  and  including  extensive  table-lands, 
from  3,000  to  5,000  feet  high,  clad  with  nutritious  grass.  Volcanic  eruptions  have  been 
observed  here  since  1810,  and  on  some  of  the  high  cones  the  rocks  are  hot,  and  steam  and 
smoke  pour  from  their  crevices.  Deep  canons  cut  into  the  plateau,  and^ above  it  rise  sharp 
volcanic  cones,  making  a  variety  of  noble  scenery.  North  of  the  Stampede  Pass  the 
Cascades  grow  higher  and  more  rugged ;  and  above  the  Upper  Columbia  they  meet  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  in  a  land  of  wooded  ridges  and  pleasant  valleys.  In  Washington  the 
Cascade  Range  may  be  crossed  at  the  Snoqualmie  Pass,  3, 1 10  feet  high  ;  the  Natchess, 
4,900;  the  Stampede,  3,980;  the  Cowlitz,  5,500;  — — — — — : — - — -  .._'.---•;  •  ^  /";.  "  :-;J 
and  the  Cascade.  Mount  Tacoma,  14,444  feet  high,  ||» 
is  one  of  the  most  majestic  and  beautiful  of  Ameri- 
can peaks,  and  lifts  its  white  crest  high  over  west- 
ern Washington,  visible  for  scores  of  miles.  Eight 
great  glaciers  stream  downward  from  its  imme- 
morial snows,  and  out  of  their  bases  pour  five 
rivers,  the  Cowlitz,  Chehalis,  Nisqually,  Puyallup 
and  White.  Theodore  Winthrop,  one  of  the  early  OLD  FORT  WALLA  WALLA. 


868 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE    UNITED   STATES. 


WALLA    WALLA. 


explorers  of  this  region,  and  Hazard 
Stevens,  the  first  man  who  ascended 
the  peak,  state  that  the  Indians 
called  it  Taconia,  signifying  "moun- 
tain,"  but  especially  applied  to  this 
as  the  sovereign  of  mountains.  In 
1792  Vancouver  named  it  Rainier, 
after  one  of  the  lords  of  the  British 
Admiralty.  In  the  city  of  Tacoma  the 
Indian  name  is  used,  and  in  Seattle 
Rainier  is  preferred.  This  chief  sum- 
mit rises  from  vast  and  almost  untrodden  forests,  and  is  nobly  seen  from  the  blue  waters  of 
Puget  Sound.  Near  the  Columbia  River  are  the  lofty  volcanic  cones  of  Mount  Adams  and 
Mount  St.  Helen's,  each  nearly  10,000  feet  high,  and  visible  over  many  leagues  of  the  valley. 
In  the  north  stands  Mount  Baker,  10,755  feet  high,  a  volcano  which  had  eruptions  in  1843, 
1854,  1858  and  1870,  pouring  out  vast  volumes  of  smoke  2,ooo  feet  high,  and  covering  the 
country  with  ashes,  like  a  snowfall.  St.  Helen's  also  had  an  eruption  of  ashes  in  1843. 
The  Cascade  Range  sends  off  numerous  long  ridges  and  plateaus  to  the  east  and  south- 
east, clad  with  poor  grass,  sage-brush  and  scattering  timber.  The  Yakima  Valley  is  20  by 
30  miles  in  area,  and  has  valuable  fruit  and  grain  farms,  carefully  irrigated,  and  large  areas 
of  bunch  -grass  for  grazing  live-stock.  Tobacco,  hops  and  alfalfa  are  raised  in  this  region. 
The  Kittitas  Valley  covers  an  area  of  20  by  35  miles,  and  is  higher  and  cooler  than  the 
Yakima  Valley.  Ellensburgh  is  the  metropolis  of  this  region. 

The  Great  Plain  of  the  Columbia,  one  of  the  chief  agricultural  regions  of  the  Pacific 
States,  is  bounded  by  the  Columbia  and  Spokane  Rivers  and  the  Idaho  and  Oregon  fron- 
tiers. It  is  in  the  main  an  undulating  grassy  country,  with  broad  areas  of  sage-brush.  It 
was  long  supposed  that  this  vast  volcanic  desert  had  no  agricultural  value  ;  but  Dr.  Bing- 
ham's  successful  experiments  with  alfalfa  astonished  all  observers,  and  directed  to  the  Great 
Plain  thousands  of  farmers,  whose  estates  are  now  attractive  and  prolific.  The  Big-Bend 
Country,  near  the  centre  of  Washington,  covers  4,800  square  miles,  a  third  of  it  gently 
rolling  brown-loam  prairie,  suitable  for  farming,  and  the  rest  in  low  hills  and  plateaus  of 
bunch-grass  and  sage-brush,  where  live-stock  is  ranged.  The  Columbia  River  curves 
around  this  volcanic  plain,  bounding  it  on  the  north  and  west,  and  partly  on  the  southwest, 
for  200  miles,  and  flowing  in  a  narrow  valley  1,500  feet  below  the  general  level.  The 
region  is  traversed  by  several  remarkable  chasms,  like  the  Grand  Coulee,  scores  of  miles 
long,  and  from  a  furlong  to  half  a  league  wide,  with  sheer  walls  of  black  basalt  500  feet 
or  more  in  height.  There  are  a  dozen  villages  in  this  region,  and  hundreds  of  wheat  farms. 
In  southeastern  Washington,  between  the  Blue  Mountains  and  the  Snake  and  Columbia 
Rivers,  lies  the  Walla-  Walla  Country,  including  8,000  square  miles,  and  rich  in  golden 
wheat-fields.  Walla  Walla  stands  in  an  immense  rolling  expanse  of  wheat,  dotted  with 
farm-houses  and  orchards,  and  bounded  by  mountains  which  rise  by  gentle  slopes  to  snowy 
crests.  At  times  this  broad  plain  is  visited  by  tall  and  tawny  pillars  of  dust,  resembling 
water-spouts  at  sea,  and  reeling  swiftly  across  the  country.  The  first  settlement  on  the 

great  plain  was  made  at  Walla  Walla,  by  Dr. 
Whitman,  the  missionary  hero,  who  saved  the 
Oregon  Country  to  the  United  States.  The 
Palouse  Country  is  a  high  rolling  prairie,  with- 
out timber,  but  abounding  in  wheat  farms,  on 
the  loam  produced  by  the  decomposition  of  the 
volcanic  rock.  It  extends  from  the  Snake  River 
northward  for  150  miles,  nearly  to  Spokane 
Falls,  with  an  average  breadth  of  25  miles. 


CAPE  HORN,  ON  THE  COLUMBIA  RIVER. 


PUGET    SOUND  I      OLYMPIC    MTS.  ,   FROM    SEATTLE. 


THE  STATE   OF    WASHINGTON. 

There  is  a  vast  area  of  bunch-grass  pasture-land, 
with  singular  sugar-loaf  buttes  rising  here  and  there, 
and  small  streams  flowing  between  basaltic  palisades 
and  in  the  depths  of  forested  gorges.  The  Spokane 
Country,  around  Spokane  Falls,  and  the  Colville 
Country,  between  the  Columbia  and  Clarke's  Fork, 
abound  in  plump  white  wheat  and  elephantine 
potatoes. 

The  great  Columbia  River  winds  across  the 
State,  receiving  Clarke's  Fork  and  the  Snake  River  (Lewis  Fork),  and  cutting  through  the 
Cascade  Range.  Much  of  its  course,  as  well  as  the  courses  of  its  tributaries,  lies  in  canons 
in  the  volcanic  plateaus,  although  above  the  Big  Bend  there  are  bottom-lands,  bordered  by 
wooded  hills  and  grassy  prairies.  The  Columbia  flows  south  from  the  frontier  1 10  miles  to  the 
Big  Bend  ;  then  west  to  the  Okanogan,  93  miles  ;  south  to  the  Snake,  220  miles ;  west  to  the 
Dalles,  100  miles;  and  west  to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  140  miles.  Steamboats  run  daily  from 
Portland  up  and  clown  the  river.  Improvements  are  under  way  to  make  the  Upper  Colum- 
bia and  the  Snake  navigable  for  grain-bearing  steamers.  The  mouth  of  the  Columbia  was 
formerly  obstructed  by  a  perilous  outer  bar,  but  the  United- States  Engineers  have  straightened 
the  channel,  and  hope  to  give  it  a  depth  of  30  feet.  Even  then  the  sea  will  break  clear 
across  it  in  stormy  weather.  Vessels  bound  in  sometimes  used  to  lie  to  for  weeks  outside 
the  river,  whose  openings,  five  miles  wide,  and  filled  with  racing  breakers,  resembled  the 
rapids  above  Niagara.  The  Snake  River  is  navigable  for  150  miles  in  Washington,  flowing 

through  the  lava  in  a  canon  from  1,200  to  2,000 
feet  deep.  Steamboats  run  semi-weekly  from 
Riparia  to  Lewiston  and  Asotin,  84  miles. 
The  rivers  flowing  from  the  Cascade  Range 
bear  odd  old  Indian  names  —  Methow,  Chelan, 
Wenatchee,  Yakima,  Snoqualmie,  Klickatat, 
Cowlitz,  Chehalis,  Puyallup,  Snohomish,  Nis- 
qually,  Steilaguamish,  Duwamish,  Nooksack, 
and  Skagit.  Some  of  them  are  traversed  by  light- 
The  falls  of  Multnomah,  Tumwater,  Snoqualmie 
There  are  but  two  deep  harbors  on  the 


SEA   VIEW,    NEAR    CAPE    DISAPPOINTMENT. 


draught  steamboats,  visiting  their  ports, 
and  other  localities  are  famous  for  their  beauty. 
Pacific  coast  of  Washington.  Willapa  (or  Shoalwater  Bay)  covers  a  great  area,  and  has 
valuable  oyster-beds  and  fisheries,  and  possibilities  of  great  commercial  importance.  The 
heart-shaped  Gray's  Harbor  has  several  villages,  with  a  large  lumber-trade  ;  and  steamboats 
ascend  the  Chehalis  River  twelve  miles  to  Montesano,  the  shire-town.  The  chief  harbors  on 
the  Strait  are  Crescent  Bay,  Port  Angeles  and  New  Dungeness.  The  Strait  of  Juan  de  Fuca 
runs  eastward  from  the  Pacific  Ocean  for  50  miles,  with  a  width  of  from  eight  to  twelve  miles, 
and  a  depth  of  from  40  to  100  fathoms,  and  then  rapidly  widens  into  Washington  Sound, 
containing  the  San-Juan  Islands.  The  Strait  ends  at  Whidby  Island,  85  miles  from  the  sea. 
Puget  Sound  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  salt-water  estuaries  in  the  world,  with  its 
forest-clad  borders  and  lofty  mountains.  The 
depth  of  water  varies  from  300  to  800  feet. 
At  many  points  vessels  of  the  largest  size  can 
be  moored  to  the  trees;  or,  as  Admiral 
Wilkes  said:  "A  ship's  side  would  strike 
the  shore  before  the  keel  would  touch  the 
ground."  The  main  entrance  to  the  Sound 
is  Admiralty  Inlet,  three  miles  wide,  and 
with  the  singular  channel  of  Hood's  Canal 
diverging  58  miles  to  the  southwest  among  WALLA  WALLA  VALLEY,  LOOKING  WEST. 


87o 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED  STATES. 


the  mountains.  Sixty  miles  from  the  mouth  of  Admiralty  Inlet,  and  near  Tacoma,  Pugct 
Sound  is  compressed  from  a  width  of  from  three  to  five  miles  into  the  Narrows,  less  than  a 
mile  wide,  and  five  miles  long,  inside  of  which  it  widens  away  around  many  islands,  to- 


wards Olympia,with  deep  tidal 
of  a  wheel  over  nearly  300 
was  a  British  naval  officer  in 
who  gave  his  name  to  the 
sage,  calling  the  rest  of  the 
1870  the  name  of  Puget  Sound 
as  far  as  the  Narrows  ;  and 
Bellingham  Bay,  or  even  to 
largest  extension  the  Sound 
and  includes  2,ooo  square  miles. 


GLIMPSE    OF    MOUNT    ADAMS. 


inlets  radiating  like  the  spokes 
square  miles.  Lieut.  Puget 
the  expedition  of  Vancouver, '. 
waters  inside  of  Dana's  Pas-" 
Sound  -  Admiralty  Inlet.  By 
had  been  popularly  extended^ 
now  it  covers  the  waters  to] 
the  Gulf  of  Georgia.  In  this 
has  a  shore-line  of  1,600  miles, 

The  exports  of  Puget  Sound  reach  $9,000,000  a  year,  si 
two  thirds  of  it  along  the  coast,  and  the  rest  to  foreign  ports.  Washington  ships  250,000 
tons  of  wheat  to  Europe  yearly ;  and  when  the  Isthmus  of  Panama  is  pierced,  grain-laden 
steamships  can  run  from  Puget  Sound  to  Liverpool  in  three  weeks,  saving  40  per  cent,  in 
cost  of  shipment  (which  is  now  35  shillings  a  ton).  The  nine  mountainous  islands  of  San- 
Juan  County  abound  in  scenic  beauty,  and  the  view  from  Orcas,  their  highest  point,  2,440 
feet  above  the  tide,  includes  the  entire  Archipelago  de  Haro,  and  the  snowy  peaks  of  the 
Cascade  Range  for  scores  of  leagues.  The  2,000  islanders  are  mainly  fruit  farmers  and 
shepherds,  and  have  seven  churches  and  ten  post-offices.  Steamers  run  daily  from  the 
Archipelago,  alternately  to  Port  Townsend  and  Sehome.  The  islands  have  deposits  of  iron 
and  marble ;  and  also  make  and  export  400,000  barrels  of  lime  every  year.  In  a  fine  har- 
bor of  Fidalgo  Island  is  the  new  city  of  Anacortes,  founded  in  1890  for  the  western  termi- 
nus of  several  railways  (bridging  a  narrow  channel),  and  a  port  for  the  steamship  lines. 
Within  three  months  the  population  rose  from  25  to  3,000.  Whidby  Island,  with  115,000 
acres,  and  Camano  Island,  with  30,000  acres,  lie  near  the  mouth  of  Puget  Sound,  and 
form  Island  County,  which  has  1,300  inhabitants,  farmers,  lumbermen  and  ship-builders. 
The  Fisheries  are  of  value  and  interest.  The  sounds,  bays  and  rivers  teem  with 

valuable  food-fish,  enormous  stur- 
geon, herring,  smelt,  sole,  flound- 
ers, shad,  and  other  varieties. 
Large  halibut  and  cod  dwell  in 
Puget  Sound,  and  outside.  The 
fat  black  cod  and  the  cultas  (or 
buffalo  cod)  are  caught  in  vast 
numbers  in  the  Strait  and  Sound. 
The  Makah  Indians  kill  many 
California  gray  whales  off  Cape 
Flattery ;  and  also  dry  yearly 
1,600,000  pounds  of  halibut, 
weighing  from  35  to  250  pounds 
each.  There  are  10,000  fur-seals  caught  yearly,  and  many  valuable  sea-otter  are  shot  by 
riflemen.  The  oysters  of  Puget  Sound  and  Shoalwater  Bay  are  shipped  by  hundreds  of 
thousands  of  baskets,  being  highly  esteemed  for  their  delicate  flavor.  Clams  and  quahatigs 
are  found  in  vast  numbers.  The  salmon-fisheries  of  the  Columbia,  Shoalwater  Bay,  Gray's 
Harbor  and  Puget  Sound  amount  to  $1,500,000  a  year.  The  fish  are  easily  caught,  and 
are  canned,  smoked  and  salted.  In  1888  a  fleet  of  Massachusetts  fishermen  sailed  around 
Cape  Horn,  and  discovered  halibut  off  this  coast.  There  are  ship-yards  on  Puget  Sound  and 
the  Pacific  Coast,  where  many  vessels  are  built  from  the  famous  red  and  yellow  fir.  Seward 
prophesied  that  "Sooner  or  later  the  world's  ship-yards  will  be  located  on  Puget  Sound." 
A  thousand  vessels  sail  from  the  Sound  yearly,  bearing  $9,000,000  worth  of  lumber,  coal, 


MEDICAL    LAKE 


THE  STATE  OF   WASHINGTON. 


salmon  and  grain ;  and  the 
Washingtonians  have  already 
built  up  a  profitable  trade  with 
China  and  Japan. 

There  are  scores  of  beauti- 
ful lakes  on  both  sides  of  the 
Cascade  Range,  and  far  up  in 
the  Columbia  Valley;  The 
chief  of  these  is  Lake  Chclan, 
winding  for  many  leagues 
among  the  mountains,  in  a 
lonely  and  unoccupied  land. 
Medical  Lake,  on  an  ever- 
green and  lava-strewn  plateau,  26  miles  southwest  of  Spokane  Falls,  is  i^  miles  long,  and 
contains  a  great  variety  of  healing  minerals,  giving  the  water  a  dark  chocolate-brown  hue 
and  a  smooth  soapy  feeling,  and  concentrated  at  the  bottom  in  a  jelly-like  deposit  a  foot 
thick.  Thousands  of  people  visit  the  lake-hotels  every  summer,  drinking  and  taking  hot 
and  cold  baths,  for  the  relief  of  rheumatism,  catarrh  and  diseases  of  the  skin  and  stomach. 
The  Green-River  Hot  Springs  pour  out  their  iron,  magnesia  and  sulphur  waters  in  the 
magnificent  cedar  forest  on  the  western  slope  of  the  Cascades,  attracting  many  rheumatics 
and  trout-fishers  to  the  hotel  near  by.  Yakima  Soda  Springs  produce  a  valuable  and 
favorite  water,  which  is  exported.  Out  on  the  coast,  close  to  the  lofty  basaltic  cliffs  of 
Cape  Disappointment,  is  the  pleasant  summer-resort  of  Sea  View,  where  thousands  of 
,.  ~'i'~  -  -  -,  ^_  vacation  tourists  enjoy  salt-water  bathing,  boating 

and  fishing. 

The  Climate  is  singularly  equable  and  moist  in 
the  west,  with  a  heavy  winter  rainfall,  and  a  mean 
annual  temperature  of  46°,  cool  in  summer  and  mild 
in  winter,  and  resembling  the  climate  of  southern 
England  and  the  Channel  Islands.  The  clear, 
NORTH  YAKIMA  :  HOP  AND  GRAIN  FARM.  bright  summer  days  are  succeeded  by  long 

northern  twilights  and  cool  nights.  East  of  the  Cascades  the  rainfall  is  light,  and  the  mean 
annual  temperature  falls  to  45°.  The  summers  are  hot  and  dry,  and  the  winters  short  and 
cold.  Spring  begins  in  February,  and  lasts  till  mid-May,  with  a  temperature  of  52°,  and 
considerable  rain.  In  autumn  the  days  are  warm  and  bright,  with  frequent  showers  and 
frosty  nights.  From  June  to  September  little  rain  falls,  and  the  weather  is  perfect  for 
harvesting.  The  Chinook  wind,  balmy  and  perfumed,  comes  off  the  Pacific,  cool  in  sum- 
mer and  warm  and  moist  in  winter,  usually  gentle  in  its  motion,  but  eating  up  the  snow 
and  ice  with  wonderful  rapidity,  and  crossing  the  mountains  with  its  benignant  influences 
until  it  fades  away  in  the  upper  Missouri  valley.  The  east  wind,  coming  down  the  Colum- 
bia Valley,  freezing  in  winter,  and  hot  and  dusty  in  summer,  is  abominated  by  the  people, 
but  has  only  a  short  duration.  Roses  have  bloomed  at  Seattle  in  December,  and  pansies 
at  Walla  Walla  in  January,  and  peaches  blossom  at  Olympia  in  February,  with  snowbanks 
in  sight  of  either  in  August. 

Agriculture  has  already  made  nota- 
ble progress  and  will  probably  become 
the  leading  industry.  The  wheat-crop 
reaches  15,000,000  bushels  yearly.  In 
Eastern  Washington  820,000  acres  of  land 
are  improved,  and  133,000  in  Western 
Washington.  The  east  is  suited  for  rais- 
ing a  great  variety  of  fruits  and  vegetables, 


MEDICAL    LAKE  I     HOSPITAL    FOR    THE    INSANE. 


872 


HANDBOOK  OF  THE  UNITED   STATES. 


YAKIMA    VALLEY  I     HOP    CULTURE. 


tobacco  and  hops.  Wheat-culture  and  stock-raising 
have  already  assumed  considerable  importance  on  these 
great  bunch-grass  prairies ;  and  hundreds  of  miles  of 
irrigating  canals  flow  through  the  Kittitas  and  Yakima 
and  other  valleys.  Corn  grows  abundantly  in  the 
Walla-Walla  Country.  Western  Washington  produces 
great  quantities  of  grains  and  grasses,  vegetables  and 
fruits.  Prunes  and  plums,  apples  and  pears,  thrive  and 
are  largely  cultivated.  In  1864  the  entire  crop  of  hops 
was  one  bale,  raised  as  an  experiment.  The  product 
in  the  State  is  now  40,000  bales,  worth  $1,500,000, 
and  of  the  best  quality  as  to  flavor.  A  regular  transport  service  has  been  inaugurated  be- 
tween Tacoma  and  London,  trains  laden  with  hops  running  direct  to  New  York  to  meet 
the  steamships.  The  Puyallup  Valley,  near  Tacoma,  is  celebrated  for  its  carefully  culti- 
vated hop-fields,  covering  many  leagues,  and  yielding  1,500  pounds  to  the  acre.  The  hops 
are  picked  by  Indians,  5,000  of  whom  come  hither  in  the  harvest-time,  in  canoes  up  Puget 
Sound  and  on  ponies  over  the  mountain-trails — the  women  and  children  to  toil  in  the  fields, 
and  the  men  to  smoke  and  loaf.  The  measureless  forests  of  Western  Washington  furnish 
masts  and  spars  for  England  and  France,  for  Chile  and  the  Asiatic  ports,  of  remarkable 
flexibility  and  tenacity  of  fibre,  strong,  light  and  free  from  knots  and  flaws.  The  Douglas 
(or  red)  firs  sometimes  reach  a  height  of  300  feet,  and  yield  spars  150  feet  long  and  planks 
90  feet  long.  They  are  erroneously  called  Oregon  pines.  There  are  5,ooo  men 

engaged  in  the  lumbering  industry,  cutting  yearly  over  1, 200,000,000  feet,      \,         much    of 
which  goes  down  the  coast  to  San  Francisco,  or  across 
to   Australia.     The   busy   saw- mills  that   have   been 
working  here  for  a  quarter  of  a  century  have  made  no 
impression  on  the  massive  fir  forests. 

The  lumbering  industry  of  Puget  Sound  is  second  to 
that  of  no  section  in  this  country,  and  even  the  great 
forests  of  Michigan  are  not  superior  to  those  of  the 
North  Pacific  Coast.  The  timber  is  remarkably 
straight,  and  has  for  years  been  noted  for  its  beauty, 
strength  and  durability.  Before  the  use  of  steam - 

vessels   became   so   common    this   timber  was   much  BIG  LUMBER. 

sought  after  for  spars.  The  older  mills  have  been  cut-  ST.- PAUL  &  TACOMA  LUMBER  COMPANY. 
ting  for  foreign  trade,  but  as  the  country  is  being  opened  up  there  is  a  growing  local  and 
domestic  trade.  In  May,  1888,  the  St. -Paul  &  Tacoma  Lumber  Company,  of  Tacoma, 
was  incorporated,  with  a  capital  of  $1,500,000.  This  company  since  their  incorporation 
have  been  running  full,  employing  1,250  men,  with  an  annual  pay-roll  of  $750,000.  Their 
products  are  not  confined  to  lumber,  but  include  coal,  stone  and  lime.  Their  plant  com- 
prises some  80  acres  in  the  city  of  Tacoma,  consisting  of  saw-mills  and  dry-kilns,  and  over 
150,000  acres  of  timber-land  in  the  vicinity,  and  5,000  acres  of  coal-land,  with  one  of  the 

most  extensive  mines  in  the  State  in  operation. 
This  company  introduced  much  of  the  improve- 
ment in  saw-mill  machinery  in  the  West,  and 
was  the  first  to  dry  lumber  in  the  rough.  This 
is  for  the  convenience  of  the  local  trade,  which 
last  year  consumed  80,000,000  feet.  The  St. 
Paul  &  Tacoma  Lumber  Company  received  its 
name  from  the  fact  that  several  of  its  main  offi- 
cers and  owners  were  well-known  and  successful 
business  men  of  St.  Paul,  who  foresaw  a  gigantic 


LOGGING 
-PAUL    A  TACOMA    LUMBER    COMPANY. 


THE  STATE   OF    WASHINGTON. 


873 


TRANSPORTING    LUMBER. 
ST. -PAUL    &  TACOMA    LUMBER    COMPANY. 


outcome  of  their  Tacoma  investment. 
Their  Tacoma  city  property  in  itself  has 
enhanced  in  value  sufficiently  already  to 
make  an  immense  return.  The  manage- 
ment of  this  company  is  most  conservative, 
centered  within  itself,  free  from  all  compli- 
cations of  combines  or  trusts;  and  under  its 
able  management  promises  to  become  one  of 
the  largest  lumber  corporations  in  the  United 


THE    MILLS   AT    TACOMA. 
3T.  -PAUL i    TACOMA    LUMBER    COMPANY. 


States,  with  ships  of  its  own  which  may  soon  be 
found  in  all  the  lumber-consuming  ports. 

Twenty-eight  years  ago,  when  the  country 
surrounding  Puget  Sound  was  lined  to  the 
water's  edge  with  the  finest  timber  in  the  world, 
Capt.  William  Renton  left  his  sea-faring  occu- 
pation and  made  his  first  cut  into  the  dense  tim- 
ber on  the  outer  line  of  Kitsap  County.  This 
was  the  beginning  from  whicli  has  sprung  the 
largest  saw-mill  in  the  world.  The  mill  was  set 
up  at  Port  Blakeley,  and  is  known  as  the  Port-Blakeley  Mill  Company.  The  capital 
stock  is  $500, ooo.  Owing  to  the  age  of  the  company  it  is  easy  to  understand  that  much 
of  the  territory  possessed  has  appreciated  enormously,  and  that  it  is  now  one  of  the 
largest  properties  in  the  Northwest.  The  total  cut  last  year  was  63,554,000  feet,  of 
which  35,000,000  were  for  foreign  shipment.  The  plant  consists  of  two  double  rotary 

saws,  two  resaws  of  60  and  70  inches,  two 
gang-saws,  eleven  trimmer  -  saws,  two  lath 
mills  and  five  planers.  This  requires  two  en- 
gines of  575  horse-power  each,  and  ten  smaller 
ones,  making  an  aggregate  of  3,000  horse- 
power. The  plant  has  a  capacity  of  300,000 
feet  a  day,  but  on  pressure  400,000  feet  could 
be  run  in  that  time.  The  annual  capacity  is 
85,000,000  to  90,000,000.  Capt.  Renton  still 
retains  the  'superintendency,  and  lives  in  the 
PORT-BLAKELEY  MILLS.  Httle  ^Uage  of  Port  Blakeley,  which  is  almost 

exclusively  inhabited  by  the  250  employees  of  the  company  and  their  families.  A  remark- 
able fact  connected  with  this  gigantic  enterprise  is  that  Capt.  Renton  has  been  nearly  blind 
for  over  15  years,  and  nevertheless  has  never  ceased  to  be  the  actual  active  head  of  the 
whole  concern,  successfully  caring  for  all  its 
details,  as  well  as  being  identified  with  several 
important  enterprises  of  Seattle  and  vicinity, 
and  also  as  the  senior  member  of  the  great 
lumber  firm  of  Renton,  Holmes  &  Co.,  of  San 
Francisco. 

The  creamy  white  cedar  abounds  along  the  I 
Sound,  and  yields  enormous  quantities  of  the 
finest  of  shingles.  Great  white  pines  grow  on 
the  Cascade  Range  ;  and  in  the  east  are  thou- 
sands of  square  miles  of  white  and  bull  pines  and  tamaracks.  The  enormous  forests  of 
Washington  abound  in  game — the  great  cougar,  ten  feet  from  nose  to  tail-tip,  black  and 
gray  mountain-wolves,  coyotes  and  wild-cats,  broad-antlered  elk,  myriads  of  deer,  and 
mountain-goats,  beaver  and  otter,  grouse  and  pheasants,  geese  and  ducks. 


INDIANS    ON    THEIR    WAY    TO    HOP-PICKING. 


874  KlNG^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

Mining  has  already  attained  importance  in  Washington,  which  hopes  to  become  tl 
Pennsylvania  of  the  Pacific  Coast.      Over  500,000  tons  of  bituminous  coal  and  lignite 
shipped  from  the  rivers  along  Puget  Sound,  furnishing  a  large  part  of  the  supply  for  California 
and  Oregon.     The  coal-product  rose  from  918,000  tons  in  1889  to  i,35O,oooin  1890.     Golc 
has  been  mined  for  many  years  on  both  sides  of  the  Cascade  Range,  and  extracted  from  the 
placers  of  the  Columbia  and  Snake  Rivers.     Since  1886  deposits  have  been  found  in  the 
Okanogan  region.    The  placers  and  gold-bearing  ledges  of  Ellensburgh,  Peshastan  and  Upj 
Clealum  have  been  worked  for  years.     Northwest  of  Colville  are  the  productive  goh 
placers  and  quartz-lodes,  silver  and  copper  of  Kettle  River.     The  Colville  Country  has 
score  of  mines  of  silver-bearing  lead  and  silver  chlorides.     A  railway  is  being  built  froi 
Spokane  Falls  to  Kettle  Falls,  whence  the  Columbia  River  can  be  navigated  for  130  mile 
north,  to  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway.      The  Pacific  Northwest  is  supplied  with  lime  froi 
the  kilns   on  the  San-Juan  Islands.     Greenish-gray 
sandstone  comes  from  the  Chuckanut  quarries,   on 
Bellingham  Bay.     There  are  granite  quarries  near 
Spokane  Falls  and  Medical  Lake,  and  in  the  Cas- 
cade Range  and  along  Snake  River. 

The    deposits   of  iron  ore  in  the  mountains  of 
Western  Washington,  notable  for  their  extent  and 
richness,  are  attracting  great  attention.     This  wealth 
has  hitherto  lain  dormant,  but  preparations  are  now 
made  for  the  reduction  of  the  ore  and  the  manufac- 
ture of  steel  on  an  extensive  scale.     This  work  has  been  undertaken  by  the  Great  Wester 
Iron  and  Steel  Company,  with  a  paid-up  capital  of  $1.000,000,  and  power  to  increase  this 
to  $5,000,000.     The  organizers  of  the  company  are  Gen.  R.  A.  Alger  of   Detroit,   J. 
Sears  of  Boston,  H.  A.  Noble  of  Chicago,  J.  S.  Fassett  of  Elmira  (N.  Y. ),  Edward  Blewet 
of  Fremont  (Neb. ),  Peter  Kirk  and  W.  W.  Williams,  late  of  Workington,  England,  bi 
now  of  Kirkland  ;  Bailey   Gatzert,  president  of  the  Puget- Sound  National  Bank  ;  Jacol 
Furth,  cashier  of  the  Puget-Sound  National  Bank ;  L.  S.  J.  Hunt,  proprietor  of  the  Seatt 
Post- Intelligencer ;  A.  A.  Denny  and  C.  T.  Tyler  of  Seattle.     The  officers  are  L.  S.  J.  Hunt 
president ;  Peter  Kirk,  vice-president ;  W.  W.  Williams,  secretary  ;  and  Jacob  Furth,  tret 
urer.      Its  works  are  at  Kirkland,  on  Lake  Washington,  and  include  already  a  foundry, 
chine-shop,  blacksmith-shop  and  pattern-shop.   In  November,  1890,  a  cargo  of  2, 270  tons  < 
fire-brick  was  shipped  from  England,  and  this  was  followed  a  month  later  by  a  second  cargc 

For  this  plant  270  tons  of  machinery  have  bee 
purchased.  All  the  material  for  the  mam 
facture  of  steel  —  iron  ore,  coal  and  flux  — ; 
to  be  obtained  within  a  territory  covered  by 
radius  of  20  miles,  with  Kirkland  as  the 
tre.  The  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  is 
being  built  to  Kirkland  and  to  the  iron  mint 
and  the  matter  of  transportation  has  tin 

been  provided  for.      Steel  is  to  be  manufa 
KIRKLAND:   GREAT  WESTERN  IRON  &  STEEL  COMPANY.  ,     ,      ,     .  ,    .  .,  ,     , 

tured,  both  in   ingots  and  in  rails,   and  tl 

company  expects  to  supply  in  large  measure  the  markets  of  the  Pacific  Coast,  as  well 
those  of  Japan  and  China. 

The  Government  has  always  had  its  seat  at  Olympia,  and  a  recent  vote  for  its  perms 
nent  location  resulted  in  25,490  ballots  for  Olympia,  14,718  for  North  Yakima,  and 
for  Ellensburgh.  Western  Washington  has  one  third  of  the  State's  area,  and  more  thz 
three  fifths  of  its  population.  The  National  Guard  of  Washington  consists  of  a  six-compar 
regiment,  in  the  west,  and  a  six-company  regiment  and  a  troop  of  cavalry  in  the  east.  Tl 
Hospital  for  the  Insane,  at  Steilacoom,  has  300  inmates.  Another  asylum  was  erected 


SEATTLE,    AND   PUGET   SOUND. 


THE  STATE   OF   WASHINGTON. 

1889-90  at  Medical  Lake.   The  Pen- 

itentiary,  at  Walla  Walla,  has  230 

convicts,  largely  occupied  in  making 

brick.      The    School  for   Defective 

Youth    overlooks     the     Columbia 

River,  at  Vancouver.     The  United- 

States  military  posts  in  Washington 

were  in  the  old  days  occupied  by  small  detachments  under  Scott,  Grant,  Sheridan,  Howard, 

Wool,  and  other  officers.     The  chief  garrisons  now  are  at  Vancouver  Barracks,  with  eight 

companies  of  artillery  and  infantry;    Fort  Walla  Walla,  with  five   troops  of  horse;  and 

Fort    Spokane,  with  six  companies.     One   company  is  stationed   near   Port   Townsend. 

Vancouver  is  the  headquarters  of  the  Military  Department  of  the  Columbia,  covering  Wash- 

ington and  Oregon,  Alaska  and  most  of  Idaho.    There  are  1  1,000  Indians  in  the  State,  partly 

civilized,  and  dwelling  on  fertile  reservations  of  4,000,000  acres.     The  industrious  and  quiet 

dwellers  on  the  Puyallup,  Chehalis,  Squaxon,  Skokomish  and  Nisqually  Reservations  have 

received  their  lands  in  severally.     The  Quinaielt  Indians  remain  hunters  and  fishers.     The 

Tulalip  Agency  controls  1,200  natives,  farming  on  their  allotments,  and  educated  by  Sisters 

of  Charity.     The  Colville  Agency  superintends  nine  small  tribes.    The  Yakima  Agency  has 

1,400  on  the  reservation,  besides  1,300  wander- 
ing off  it.  The  Neah-Bay  Agency  guards  460 
Makahs  and  Quillehutes.  This  reservation 
includes  the  stormy  promontory  of  Cape  Flat- 
tery, at  the  mouth  of  the  Strait  of  Juan  de 
Fuca,  and  the  Indians  are  daring  and  expert 
in  the  pursuit  of  whales  and  seals. 

Education  costs  Washington  $  900,000  a 
year,  distributed  among  1,200  schools.  The 
University  of  Washington  was  endowed  by 
Congress  with  two  townships  of  land,  in  1854, 
and  opened  in  1862,  at  Seattle,  where  it  has 

four  buildings,   on  a  pleasant  tree-shaded   campus   of  ten  acres.     It   is   a   coeducational 

school,  with  eight  instructors,  and  13  classical  and  28  scientific  students,  besides  176  others 

in  normal,  business,  music,  art  and  preparatory  departments.     Whitman  College,  at  Walla 

Walla,  dates  from  1866.    The  State  normal  schools  are  at'Ellensburgh  and  Cheney. 

Chief  Cities.  —  Seattle  has  a  noble  harbor,  near  the  middle  of  Puget  Sound,  connected 

by  a  small  canal  with  Lake  Washington,  a  body  of  fresh  water  20  miles  long  and  from  one  to 

five  miles  broad,  and  deep  enough  for  the  largest  ships.     More 

than  a  thousand  sea-going  vessels  visit  this  port  every  year,  carry- 

ing  away  600,000  tons  of  coal  and  many  millions  of  dollars  in 

other  freights.     From  the  six  large  steamship-docks,  regular  lines 

depart   for    San    Francisco,   Victoria,   Sitka,  and  scores  of  ports 

on  Puget  Sound  ;  and  half  a  dozen  railways  diverge 

from  Seattle  to  all  parts  of  the  Northwest.     The 

residence  quarter  of  the  city  stands  on  hills,  with 

wonderful  views    of    the    Sound  and    the    snowy 

Olympic    Range,   and  the  Cascade  Range  across 

Lake    Washington   on   the    east.       The   business 

quarter  occupies  200  acres  of  low  and  level  ground, 

fronting  on  the  bay,  with  hundreds  of  acres  more 

of  the  same  land  adjoining,  available  for  business 

extensions.      Seattle  was  founded    in    1852,    and 

named  after  a  powerful  Indian  chief  of  this  region. 


EAST    SEATTLE   AND    MOUNT    RAINIER  (TACOMA). 


/,. 


SEATTLE  :    HIGH    SCHOOL   AND   HOSPITAL. 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

It  was  besieged  and  well-nigh  destroyed  by  the  Indians, 
in  1856;  and  scourged  by  a  $10,000, ooo  fire  in  1889. 
Rising  from  its  ruins,  the  city  has  fast  developed  into 
a  commanding  position  among  the  ports  of  the  Pacific 
Slope,  and  has  every  prospect  of  an  almost  unlimited  ex- 
tension in  wealth,  power  and  prosperity.  By  its  own 
energy  and  resources,  Seattle  is  building  railways  to  Spo- 
kane Falls,  to  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway,  and  to  Port- 
land, thus  securing  the  terminals  of  several  great  trans- 
continental lines.  It  has  many  large  wholesale  houses, 
doing  a  yearly  business  of  many  millions,  extending  from 
the  Rocky  Mountains  and  the  Columbia  to  the  Yukon  River.  The  local  manufactures  exceed 
$10,000,000  a  year  in  value,  and  are  rapidly  increasing  in  volume  and  variety,  and  employ- 
ing larger  forces  of  workmen  and  greater  capitalization.  With  all  this  material  prosperity 
at  their  command,  the  people  have  also  laid  broad  and  deep  the  foundations  of  a  cultivated 
and  intelligent  community.  The  educational  system  includes  admirable  public  and  private 
schools  and  academies,  culminating  in  the  State  University.  The  newspapers  include  four 
ably  conducted  dailies,  and  many  other  periodicals ;  and  the  churches  are  numerous,  and 
in  several  cases  very  attractive.  Seattle's  trade  is  chiefly  in  coal,  lumber,  hops,  fishery 
products,  manufactured  goods  and  general  merchandise.  Its  population  has  increased  in 


SEATTLE  :     KING-COUNTY    COURT-HOUSE. 


SEATTLE,    FROM    HARBOR. 

the  past  ten  years  from  4,000  to   46,000,  and  its  assessable  wealth  from  $2,500,000   to 
$35,000,000.     No  city  has  done  better  during  that  period  of  time. 

As  Seattle  forges  ahead  to  a  leading  place  among  the  great  seaports  of  the  Pacific  Coast, 
she  is  rapidly  adprning  herself  with  metropolitan  beauties  and  luxuries.  One  of  the  most 
notable  of  these  new  works  is  the  splendid  Seattle  Opera  House,  now  in  course  of  con- 
struction, on  Second  Street,  which  will  be  to  the  musical  and  dramatic  taste  of  the  Northwest 
what  the  Metropolitan  Opera  House  is  to  New  York,  or  the  Grand  Opera  House  to  Paris. 
The  massive  and  monumental  effect  of  the  exterior  and  the  refined 
and  delicate  beauty  of  the  interior  and  its  connected  lobbies,  show 
the  best  study  of  Adler  &  Sullivan,  the  architects  of  the  famous 
Auditorium  Building,  at  Chicago.  The  new  opera  house  is  being 
erected  by  the  Seattle  Building  Company,  which  was  incorporated 
in  1890,  with  a  capital  of  $300,000,  and  includes  among  its  stock- 
holders some  of  the  foremost  capitalists  of  the  city,  con- 
tinually on  the  alert  for  opportunities,  to  advance  the 
development  of  the  Evergreen  State  and  the  Pacific 
Northwest.  The  unusual  commercial  advantages  of 
Puget  Sound  are  being  availed  of  by  several  fast -grow- 
ing communities,  from  where  Olympia  rests  at  its  ut- 
most head,  down  to  where  the  salt-sea  gales  sweep 
across  the  cities  of  the  Strait.  Foreign  and  coastwise 
commerce,  mining  and  manufactures,  farming,  lumber- 

Adter  &  Sullwan,  Architects.  '  => 

SEATTLE  :     OPERA   HOUSE.  ing  find  PrOnt  here- 


THE  STATE   OF    WASHINGTON. 


877 


SEATTLE  :    HOTEL    DENNY. 


BAILEY    BUILDING. 


The  magnificent  new  Hotel  Denny,  at  Seattle, 
is  one  of  the  foremost  of  the  great  hostelries  of 
the  Pacific  Coast,  and  occupies  a  very  advan- 
tageous situation. 

Tacoma  is  at  the  head  of  easy  navigation  on 
Puget  Sound,  near  the  Narrows,  and  has  large  lum- 
ber and  smelting  industries,  and  a  warehouse  and 
elevator  capacity  of  4,  ooo,  ooo  bushels  of  wheat.  It 
stands  on  a  bluff  200  feet  high,  overlooking  Puget 
Sound  and  the  Cascade  Range,  with  an  inspiring 
prospect  of  the  distant  Mount  Tacoma.  At  the 
wharves  below,  great  ships  are  laden  with  lumber  and  other  products  for  China,  Japan  and 
Australia.  In  1873  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  Com- 
pany decided  that  the  most  advantageous  western  terminus 
of  their  road  was  the  little  village  of  Tacoma.  The  entire 
population  then  was  only  about  300  souls.  Its  buildings 
consisted  of  a  saw-mill  and  the  homes  of  the  employees, 
over-shadowed  by  a  great  forest.  At  this  time  also  the 
western  terminus  of  the  road  was  Bismarck,  Dakota.  Hav- 
ing decided  upon  this  site,  the  railroad  officials  purchased 
there  3,000  acres,  and  13,000  acres  of  additional  and  neigh- 
boring lands,  and  organized  the  Tacoma  Land  Company, 
which  laid  out  the  city  at  the  head  of  the  bay,  and  shortly 
afterward  erected  the  Hotel  Tacoma,  costing  $250,000. 
The  capital  stock  of  the  company  is  $1,000,000.  They  originally  owned  the  whole  town, 

and  have  sold  the  land  at  constantly  in- 
creasing prices.  They  have  recently  begun 
the  erection  of  another  hotel,  and  are  build- 
ing it  on  the  bluff  overlooking  and  about 
400  feet  above  the  level  of  the  Bay  of  Ta- 
coma. It  is  to  be  of  stone  and  brick,  and 
will  be  five  stories  high.  The  parlors, 
lobby  and  dining-rooms  will  be  on  the  first 
floor.  Besides  these,  the  hotel  will  con- 
tain 250  sleeping-rooms.  The  growth  of 
Tacoma  from  a  village  with  a  population  of  300  in  1873  to  a  well  developed  city  of  nearly 
40,000  in  1891  is  largely  due  to  the  Tacoma  Land  Com-  j 

pany,   which  is  now  building  this  hotel  at  a  cost  of  three 
quarters  of  a  million  dollars. 

Spokane  Falls  received  its  first  settler  in  1878,  and  has 
risen  from  a  village  of  2,200  people  in  1883  to  a  city  of 
20,000  in  1890,  with  electric  lights  and  water- works,  street- 
cars and  telephones,  morning  and  evening  newspapers,  mes- 
senger-boys, great  hotels,  and  wholesale  houses.  Several 
railways  centre  at  Spokane,  from  the  Coeur-d'Alene  and  Col- 
ville  mines  and  the  rich  farming  countries  on  the  South.  The 
Washington  Water-Power  Company,  incorporated  in  1889, 
controls  the  bulk  of  the  water  power  at  Spokane  Falls,  and 
owns  20  acres  in  the  heart  of  the  city,  together  with  20,000 
horse-power  at  the  lowest  stage  of  water.  The  power  is  con- 
sidered by  expert  hydraulic  engineers  one  of  the  first  of  the 
great  water-powers.  It  is  entirely  free  from  ice  in  the  TACOMA  :  CHAMBER  OF  COMMERCE. 


TACOMA  :     NEW    HOTEL. 


878  KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

winter.     The  water  is  very  clear  and  free  from  grit, 
and  the  formation  of  the  river-bed  is  basaltic  rock, 
making  it  easy  for  improvements.     The  company  has 
completed  extensive  improvements  in  the  river-bed, 
consisting  of  a  dam  200  feet  long,  with  masonry  head- 
gates   conducting    the    water    several    hundred    feet 
through  a  pair  of  seven-foot  iron  penstocks  to  the 
new  water-power  station  of  the  Edison  Electric  Illu- 
minating Company.     These  joint  improvements  are 
among  the  best  in  the  United  States,  and  far  excel 
anything  on    the    Pacific  Coast.     The    water-power 
company  supplies  power  to  a  number  of  con- 
cerns, the  most   important  of  which  is  the 
Edison    Electric    Illuminating    Company's 
station,   whose   plant  (an    interior  view  of 
which  is  shown)  is  the  model  water-power 
plant  of  the  country.      In  it  the  power  is 
broken  up  into  small  units,  for  the  purpose 
of  more  careful  regulation.      Everything  is 
put  in  in  iron  or  granite,  and  2,700  horse- 
power is  delivered  on  the  machinery-floor. 
The  plant  of   the  Edison  Company  is  the 
largest  individual  lighting  plant  on  the  coast,  and  consists 
of  600  arcs  and  7, 500  incandescent  lamps.     The  Water- 
Power  Company  is  also  in  the  milling  business,  and  makes 
flour  from  the  wheat  of  the  Palouse  and  Big-Bend  coun- 
tries.     There  are  150  employees  of  the  joint  companies. 

Finance  finds  its  chief  and  oldest  banking-house  at  Seattle,  in  Dexter  Horton  &  Co., 
now  closely  allied  with  Ladd  &  Tilton,  of  Portland  (Oregon),  W.  S.  Ladd  being  its  president. 
The  Merchants'  National  Bank  of  Tacoma  is  one  of  the  pioneer  and  largest  banks  of 
Washington.  It  was  organized  May  14,  1884,  to  succeed  the  Bank  of  New  Tacoma,  with 
a  paid-in  capital  of  $50,000.  This  was  increased  to  $100,000 
in  May,  1888,  and  again  to  $250,000  in  August,  1889.  It  now 
has  a  capital  of  $250,000,  with  a  surplus  and  undivided  profits 
of  nearly  $100,000.  The  deposits  of  this  bank  have  exceeded 
$1,000,000;  and  it  is  known  throughout  the  State,  and,  indeed, 
the  Pacific  Coast,  as  a  solid  and  conservative  institution.  The 
total  resources,  according  to  a  late  statement,  were  $1,210,388. 
Their  new  building  is  six  stories  high,  and  is  of  a  very  simple 
but  elegant  style  of  architecture.  The  president  is  Walter  J. 
Thompson,  a  well-known  business  man  ;  and  the  cashier  is 
Samuel  Collyer,  the  son  of  the  Rev.  Robert  Collyer,  the  famous 
blacksmith  preacher.  This  is  the  pioneer  bank  of  Tacoma,  and 
one  of  the  largest  in  the  State. 

Railroads.  —  The  Northern  Pacific,  from  Idaho  and  the 
East,  throws  off  branches  to  Coulee  City  and  Lewiston,  and 
then  crosses  the  Columbia,  and  ascends  the  Yakima  Valley,  crossing  the  Cascade  Range  by 
a  two-mile  tunnel  at  Stampede  Pass.  It  reaches  deep  water  at  Tacoma  and  Seattle,  Ocosta 
and  Willapa  Bay.  Another  line  follows  Puget  Sound,  and  another  runs  from  Spokane  Falls 
far  up  the  Columbia  Valley.  The  Union  Pacific  enters  Washington  from  the  south.  The 
Great  Northern  Railway  is  building  rapidly  from  Montana  to  Puget  Sound,  750  miles,  and 
will  give  passage  from  New  York  to  Seattle  in  four  days. 


SPOKANE    FALLS : 
EDISON    ELECTRIC 
ILLUMINATING 
CO.   STATION, 
CONSTRUCTED    BY   THE   WASHINGTON 
WATER-POWER    COMPANY. 


TACOMA  : 
MERCHANTS'    NATIONAL   BANK. 


$170,000,000 

.   .     24,780 


r 

1,670 

1,328 
109 

1,611 


In  her  history  and  charac- 
teristics West  Virginia  is  of 
the  West  rather  than  of  the 
East,  and  her  early  annals 
are  full  of  the  Indian  wars 
and  massacres,  which  equal- 
ly characterized  other  States 
of  the  interior.  One  of  the 
first  land-owners  was  George 

Washington,  who,  when  working  as  a  public  surveyor,  in 

1750,  entered  and  patented  for  himself  32,000  acres  in  the 

Ohio  and  Great  Kanawha  Valleys.     The  first  permanent 

settlers  came  from  Pittsburgh,  in  1704,  and  located  near 

Philippi.      Separated  from   the   rest   of   Virginia   by  the 

formidable  barrier  of  the  Alleghany  Mountains,  the  inter- 
ests of  the  western  counties  grew  apart  from  those  of  the 

tide-water  region,  as  to  taxation,  representation,  the  slavery 

question    and    internal    improvements.     Their    commerce 

was  turned  down  the  Ohio,  and  their  sympathies  grew  into 

harmony  with  the  great  States  of  the  Middle  West.     The 

entire  region  was  unfitted  for  the  slave-plantation  system 

of  Tide-water  Virginia,  because  no  great  farming  estates 

could  be  established  on  these  Tyrolese  hills.      Even  now, 

but  4  per  cent,  of  its  people  are  colored,  while  over  40  per 

cent,   of  Virginia's  people  are  of   African  descent.     Yet 

here  fell  the  most  perilous  blow  of  the  Abolitionists'  war 

against  slavery.      October   1 6,    1859,   John   Brown  and  a 

force  of  22  armed  Abolitionists  captured  Harper's  Ferry 

and  the  arsenal,  intending  to  raise  the  negroes  of  the  val- 
ley in  revolt,  and  occupy  the  Blue'  Ridge  as  a  base  of  hos- 
tilities against  the  slave-holders.  But  the  negroes  failed 

to  rise,  and  Brown  was  beleaguered  by  Virginian  militia  in 

the  engine-house,   which   was  stormed   by   United-States 

marines  on  the  1 8th.     Ten  of  the  insurgents  were  killed, 

seven  (including  Brown)  were  hung  by  the  State  authorities,  and  five  escaped  northward. 

The  mountaineers   of  Virginia  fiercely  fought  the  Secession    sentiment  of   the    tide- 
water counties,  and  when  the  State  resolved  to  leave  the  Union,  they  refused  to  join  the 


.     .     .  Phillipi. 
....     1704 
Pennsylvanians. 
1863 
442,014 
618,457 
592,537 
25,920 
600,192 
18,265 
314,495 
303,962 
762,794 


Settled  near  .  . 
Settled  in  ... 
Founded  by  .  . 
Became  a  State, 
Population  in  1870, 

In  1880,    .     .    . 
White,      .     . 
Colored,  .     . 
American-born 
Foreign-born,    . 
Males,      ..... 
Females,       .... 

In  1890  (U.  S.  Census), 
Population  to  the  square  mile,     25.1 
Voting  Population  (1880),     .      139,161 

Vote  for  Harrison  (1888),         78,171 

Vote  for  Cleveland  (1888),  78,677 
Net  Public  Debt,  ....  None. 
Assessed  Valuation  of 

Property  (1890), 
Area  (square  miles),   . 
U.-S.  Representatives, 
Militia  (Disciplined), 

Counties, 

Post-offices,  .... 
Railroads  (miles),  .  . 
Vessels, 

Tonnage . 

Manufactures  (yearly),       $22,867,126 

Operatives, I4.351 

Yearly  Wages,  .  .  .  $4,313,965 
Farm  Land  (in  acres),  .  10,225,341 

Farm-Land  Values,       $i33,M7,i75 

Farm  Products  (yearly)  $19,360,049 
Public  Schools,  Average 

Daily  Attendance,  .     .     .     119,990 

Newspapers, 152 

Latitude.  .  .  .  37°5'  to  40037'  N. 
Longitude,  .  .  77°4'  to  82°4o'  W. 
Temperature,  .  .  .  — 10°  to  97° 
Mean  Temperature  (Romney),  52° 


TEN  CHIEF  CITIES  AND  THEIR  POPU- 
LATIONS.    (Census  of  1690.) 


Wheeling,     .  . 
Huntington, 

Parkersburg,  . 

Martinsburg,  . 

Charleston,  .  . 

Grafton,   .     .  . 
Clarksburg, 

Benwood,      .  . 
Mpundsville, 

Hinton,     .     .  . 


34,522 
io,ic8 
-  8,408 
7,226 
6,742 
3,159 
3,008 
2,934 
2,688 
2,570 


88o 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE    UNITED   STATES. 


CHEAT    RIVER  :      THE    HEART   OF   THE 
ALLEGHANIES. 


movement.  April  22,  1861,  the  Clarksburg  convention  de- 
nounced the  ordinance  of  secession  ;  in  May,  25  counties  sent 
Unionist  delegates  to  Wheeling ;  in  June,  40  counties  at 
Wheeling  reorganized  the  State  of  Virginia;  in  October,  the 
people  voted  to  organize  the  new  State  of  Kanawha ;  and  in 
1863  West  Virginia  became  a  State.  At  the  outbreak  of  the 
late  civil  war,  Confederate  armies  entered  West  Virginia 
and  began  the  destruction  of  the  Baltimore  &  Ohio  Railroad. 
Gen.  McClellan  advanced  against  the  invaders,  with  several 
Ohio  regiments,  and  fought  a  series  of  brilliant  engagements, 
at  Buckhannon,  Rich  Mountain  and  Carrick's  Ford,  the  result 
of  which  was  the  retreat  of  the  Confederates.  In  Septem- 
ber, 1862,  Gen.  Miles  was  beleaguered  in  Harper's  Ferry,  with 
12,000  Federal  troops,  and  forced  to  surrender,  after  a  bom- 
bardment from  London  and  Maryland  Heights.  The  State  was  the  scene  of  many  fierce 
forays  on  both  sides,  and  many  a  desperate  fight  was  waged  among  its  mountain-passes. 
West  Virginia  sent  36,530  soldiers  into  the  Federal  army,  and  7,000  into  the  Confederate 
columns.  Since  the  close  of  the  civil  war  the  young  State  has  devoted  herself  to  building 
railways,  and  developing  her  vast  natural  resources  in  lumber  and  minerals  ;  and  her  popu- 
lation has  increased  with  great  rapidity.  Of  her  people  93  per  cent,  are  native  whites,  a 
ratio  unequalled  elsewhere  in  the  Union. 

West  Virginia  has  often  been  called  THE  SWITZERLAND  OF  AMERICA,  and  THE  MOUN- 
TAIN STATE,  on  account  of  her  high  mountains 
and  rugged  hills,  dashing  rivers,  and  pure  sweet 
air.   She  is  also  called  THE  PAN-HANDLE  STATE, 
from  one  of  her  chief  geographical  features. 

The  Arms  of  West  Virginia  bear  an  ivy- 
clad  rock  (the  emblem  of  stability),  on  which 
appears  "June  20,  1863"  (the  date  of  the  State's 
foundation),  supported  by  a  farmer-hunter,  with 
his  plough  and  axe,  and  a  miner,  with  his  pick- 
axe, oil-barrels,  and  lumps  of  mineral.  Below,  two 
hunters'  rifles  are  crossed,  under  a  liberty-cap,  CRANBERRY  GRADE  :  ON  THE  BALT.MORE  &  OHIO  R.  R. 
showing  that  freedom  was  won  and  will  be  maintained  by  arms.  The  motto  is  :  MONTANI 
SEMPER  LIHERI  ("Mountaineers  are  always  freemen"). 

The  Governors  have  been :  Arthur  J.  Boreman,  1863-9  >  William  E.  Stevenson, 
1869-71;  John  J.  Jacob,  1871-7;  Henry  M.  Matthews,  1878-82;  Jacob  B.  Jackson, 
1882-86;  E.  Willis  Wilson,  1886-90;  and  A.  B.  Fleming,  1890-4. 

Descriptive. —  West  Virginia  is  a  land  of  great  hills,  falling  gradually  from  the  Alle- 
ghany  Mountains,  2,500  feet  high,  which  in  part  form  the  eastern  frontier,  to  the  Ohio 
River.  This  westward  decline  is  broken  by  the  continuous  ridge  named  at  various  points 
Flat  Top,  Cotton  Hill,  Gauley,  Greenbrier,  Birch  and  Rich  Mountains,  forming  a  pro- 
longation of  the  Cumberland  Range,  and  lying  from  25  to  40  miles  west  of  the  Alleghanies. 
Along  the  east  and  south  are  the  plateaus  bordering  on 
Virginia,  cut  deep  by  the  gorges  of  many  streams,  and  fall- 
ing away  to  the  Ohio,  where  the  country  has  a  gentler 
aspect,  and  is  but  800  feet  above  the  sea.  The  Pan  Handle 
is  a  curious  strip  of  West  Virginia  running  northward  for  60 
miles,  between  the  Ohio  River  and  Pennsylvania,  and  at 
some  points  only  six  miles  wide.  The  North  and  South 
Branches  of  the  Potomac  rise  in  the  mountains,  traversing 
KANAWHA  FALLS.  long  and  n.trrow  valleys,  and  uniting  to  form  the  Potomac, 


88r 


THE  STATE   OF    WEST   VIRGINIA. 

for  100  miles  the  northeastern  border  of  the  State;  and 
in  the  north  the  West  Fork  and  Tygart's- Valley  River 
form   the   Monongahela,    into  which  the    Cheat    River 
flows,  down  one  of  the  grandest  valleys  in  the  Atlantic 
States.     The  Great  Kanawha  (formed  by  the  junction 
of  Gauley  and  New  Rivers)  receives  the  Coal,  Green- 
brier,    Gauley  and  Elk   Rivers,   and  empties   into    the 
Ohio.     The  Government  has  spent  large  amounts  on 
locks   and    dams,   to   improve   navigation   here.      This 
mountain-born  stream  is  450  miles  long,  and  navigable 
to  Kanawha  Falls,  IOO  miles.      The  Ohio  River  forms     PARKERSBURG  :   BALTIMORE  &  OHIO  BRIDGE. 
the  western  boundary  for  300  miles,  and  is  continually  traversed  by  fleets  of  steamboats, 
bearing  passengers,  freight  and  mails.     The  Little  Kanawha  is  navigable  by  steamboats,  on 
slackwater  navigation,  from  Parker?burg  to  the  oil-regions  of  Burning  Springs.     The  Guy- 
andotte,  Big  Sandy,  Elk  and  other  streams  are  much  used  by  flat-boats  and  lumber-rafts.. 

The  Climate  is  moderate  and  healthy,  and  free  from  extremes  of  heat  and  cold,  and 
from  malaria  or  excessive  moisture  ;  and  the  clear  highland  air  is  favorable  for  consumptives. 
The  rich  blue-grass  areas  of  the  Greenbrier  Valley  and  the  glens  of  the  southeast  and  the 
uplaifd  glades  afford  valuable  farming  regions  j  and  the  Pan  Handle  is  a  rich  agricultural 
land,  blessed  with  abundant  rains,  and  resembling  the  adjacent  counties  of  Ohio. 

The  Farms  produce  yearly  about  16,000,000  bushels  of  corn,  3,000,000  of  wheat,  and 

3,000,000  of  oats  ;  and  employ  nearly  two  thirds 
of  the  people.  The  chief  rural  avocation  is  the 
raising  of  horses,  cattle  and  sheep.  The  Pan- 
Handle  counties  have  large  flocks  of  sheep,  fa- 
vored by  the  limestone  soil,  abundant  water,  and 
genial  climate.  There  are  1,600,000  head  of 
live-stock.  West  Virginia  ships  yearly  300,000 
pounds  of  ginseng,  a  valuable  medicinal  root,  dug 

GREENBRIER  WHITE  SULPHUR  SPRINGS.      m  September  in  her  mountain  coves,  and  chiefly 
exported  to  China,  where  it  is  held  in  great  esteem. 

The  forests  are  of  great  extent  and  value,  and  three  fourths  of  the  State  still  remains 
under  the  shadow  of  its  oaks,  black  walnuts,  poplars,  chestnuts,  wild  cherry  trees,  hick- 
ories, sugar-maples,  maples,  white  pines  and  other  valuable  woods.  Immense  lumbering 
operations  are  carried  on,  and  tanneries  and  wood-pulp  mills  have  been  erected  in  many 
localities.  West  Virginia  probably  has  a  larger  area  of  standing  timber,  valuable  for  cabinet- 
work and  building,  than  any  other  State ;  and  the  streams  are  well  adapted  for  logging. 

Springs. — The  Greenbrier  White  Sulphur  Springs  flow  in  a  lovely  glen  amid  the  Alle- 
ghany  Mountains,  2,000  feet  above  the  sea,  and  for  over  a 
century  have  been  one  of  the  favorite  summer-resorts  of 
America.  In  remoter  days  this  was  a  fountain  of  health 
for  the  Shawnee  Indians,  and  from  1770  to  1820  the  white 
mountaineers  resorted  hither,  seeking  strength  and  recrea- 
tion. Between  1820  and  1860,  "the  Old  White"  was 
the  cherished  resort  for  the  wealthy  rice  and  cotton 
planters  of  the  Gulf  States  and  the  Carolinas,  and  the 
country  gentlemen  of  Virginia  and  Maryland,  coming 
hither  in  their  cavalcades  of  ancient  private  coaches, 
with  retinues  of  dusky  slaves.  Clay  and  Calhoun,  Scott 
and  Tyler,  Fillmore  and  Webster  frequented  this  "little 
oasis  in  a  desert  of  green  and  blue,"  and  drank  its  colorless 
ami  odorous  waters,  curative  of  rheumatism,  dyspepsia,  BERKELEY  SPRINGS. 


882 


G^S  HANDBOOK:  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES. 


alcoholism,  and  many  other 
maladies.  The  Berkeley 
Springs  are  the  oldest 
pleasure  -  resort  in  the 
South,  and  once  belonged 
to  the  vast  estate  of  Lord 
Fairfax,  and  were  fre- 
quented by  George  Wash- 
ington, who  owned  land 
and  buildings  in  the  vicin- 
ity. In  the  colonial  days 
the  Virginian  gentry  came 
hither  to  dwell  in  log-huts 
hunt  and  fish 


WHEELING  : 
POST-OFFICE    AND   CUSTOM-HOUSE. 


WHEELING   AND   THE    OHIO    RIVER. 


and  enjoy  the  baths,  and  to 
and  race  their  horses.  The  Gentlemen's, 
Ladies'  and  Lord  Fairfax's  Springs  pour  out  1,200  gallons 
of  warm  calcic  water  a  minute,  and  there  are  a  variety  of  baths  and  swim- 
ming-pools. Red  Sulphur  Springs,  the  favorite  resort  of  President  Monroe 
and  Chief- Justice  Taney,  with  waters  like  those  of  Eaux  Bonnes,  in  the 
Pyrenees ;  Salt  Sulphur  Springs,  near  Alderson,  with  their  added  attractions  of  iodine  and 
iron  waters ;  Sweet  Chalybeate,  the  Old  Sweet,  and  Blue  Sulphur  Springs,  in  the  same 
section  of  the  State ;  the  Shannondale  saline  chalybeate  springs,  near  Charleston  ;  the 
fashionable  Capon  Springs,  on  North  Mountain  ;  and  the  Parkersburg  Mineral  Wells,  are  all 
well-known.  The  scenery  of  this  region 
includes  the  emerald  valley  of  Moorfield, 
with  its  high-towered  sandstone  rocks  ; 
the  needle-like  pinnacles  over  the  South- 
Branch  glens ;  the  cloud-touched  spires 
of  Cathedral  Rock;  the  mysterious  tumu- 
lus of  Moundsville,  looking  down  on  the 
fair  Ohio  meadows ;  Hawk's  Nest,  a 
famous  view-point  on  the  New  River  •  the  glens  of  Alderson,  on  the  Greenbrier ;  the  beau- 
tiful Kanawha  and  New-River  Falls ;  the  craggy  canon  of  New  River,  enclosing  the  white 
foaming  stream  within  its  lofty  ramparts  ;  the  beauties  of  the  lower  Shenandoah  Valley, 
now  happily  recovered  from  the  ravages  of  war ;  and  the  magnificent  scenery  around  Har- 
per's Ferry,  where  the  united  Potomac  and  Shenandoah  Rivers  force  the  passage  of  the 
Blue  Ridge,  between  the  historic  Maryland  Heights  and  London  Heights. 

Minerals. —  The  coal-fields  of  West  Virginia  cover  16,000  square  miles,  with  thick 
and  easily  accessible  seams,  especially  near  Fairmont  and  Clarksburg,  and  in  the  Poca- 
hontas  and  Elkhorn  Districts ;  and  are  fully  exposed  along  the  Gauley,  New  and  Coal 
Rivers,  and  on  the  Great  Kanawha,  above  Charleston.  The  coal-field  exceeds  in  area  that 

—  of  Great  Britain,  and  reaches  48  counties.  Most  of 
^.  the  coal  is  bituminous,  with  some  pure  cannel.  The 
mines  at  Clarksburg  yield  a  capital  gas-coal,  which  is 
sent  to  many  cities.  West  Virginia  is  now  the  fourth 
State  in  producing  coal,  and  sends  out  yearly  7,000,000 
tons.  It  has  become  the  second  State  in  producing 
coke,  sending  out  a  million  tons  a  year,  the  quality  be- 
ing excellent,  and  the  coke  giving  off  an  intense  heat, 
with  but  little  ash.  The  petroleum  belt  is  from  one 
to  two  miles  wide,  and  runs  from  the  Little  Kanawha 
to  the  Ohio,  through  Wirt,  Ritchie,  Wood  and  Pleasants 
HARPER'S  FERRY  AND  JOHN  BROWN'S  FORT.  Counties,  with  its  chief  refining  and  shipping  points  at 


THE  STATE   OF    WEST    VIRGINIA. 


883 


WHEELING  :      McCULLOCH'S    LEAP. 


/HEELING  :      BRIDGE   ACROSS    THE   OHIO. 


and  near  Park- 
ersburg.  There 
are  also  large  de- 
velopments o  f 
petroleum  in  the 
northern  coun- 
ties, Mononga- 
lia,  Hancock  and 
others.  The 

newly  developed  Belmont,  Eureka  and  Manning- 
ton  districts  have  been  large  oil-producers,  and 
millions  of  dollars  have  been  invested  there  in  boring  for  the  treasures  of  the  sand-rock. 
Natural  gas  is  employed  in  many  of  the  manufactories  at  Wheeling  and  elsewhere,  and  the 
supply  is  very  copious.  Iron-ore  is  found  in  the  coal-hills,  ready  for  the  furnaces.  The 
best  is  around  Laurel  Hill  and  at  Beaver-Lick  Mountain,  where  it  yields  50  to  60  per  cent, 
of  pure  metal.  The  south  also  is  rich  in  this  mineral.  Braxton  and 
Preston  Counties  have  valuable  seams  now  in  use ;  but  the  enormous 
beds  of  ore  in  the  State  are  as  yet  slightly  developed.  Salt  is  a  valuable 
product  of  the  Kanawha  Valley,  which  is  lined  with  salines  for  many 
miles  above  Charleston.  Mason  and  Braxton  Counties  also  manufacture 
large  quantities.  In  a  single  year  320,000  barrels  of  salt  have  been  sent 
hence;  but  since  1880  the  product  has  fallen  off,  by  reason  of  competi- 
tion from  other  States.  Three  fourths  of  the  bromine  of 
America  is  made  by  a  company  with  its  headquarters  at 
Clifton.  Sandstone,  limestone,  buhrstone,  marble,  alum, 
copper,  flagstone  and  other  minerals  are  found  in  the  State. 
The  well-known  variegated  marble  pillars  in  the  old  Hall  of 
Representatives,  at  Washington,  were  quarried  in  the  Poto- 
mac River. 

Government. —  The  governor  and  executive  officers  are 
NEW-RIVER  FALLS.  elected  for  four  years.  The  legislature,  of  26  four  years' 
senators  and  65  two-years'  delegates,  meets  in  January  of  every  odd  year,  for  a  45-days' 
session.  The  Supreme  Court  has  four  justices,  elected  for  twelve  years.  There  are  14 
circuit-judges,  elected  for  eight  years.  The  Penitentiary  at  Moundsville  has  no  inmates; 
the  Hospitals  for  the  Insane,  at  Weston  and  Spencer,  550;  and  the  Institute  for  the  Deaf, 
Dumb  and  Blind,  at  Romney.  These  institutions  are  managed  with  wisdom  and  efficiency. 

Education  is  administered  by  a  liberal  system,  with  separate 
free  schools  for  white  and  colored  children.  The  State  free 
normal  schools  at  Huntington,  Fairmont,  West  Liberty,  Glen- 
ville,  Shepherdstown,  and  Concord  are  very  popular.  Over 
$1,200,000  a  year  is  spent  on  the  public  schools  by  the  State, 
in  addition  to  the  local  district  taxation.  Storer  College,  founded 
in  1867  at  Harper's  Ferry,  by  a  philanthropic  New-Englander, 
is  a  normal  and  industrial  school  for  colored  people.  West- 
Virginia  University  grew  out  of  the  United- States  Agricultural 
College  land-grant  of  1862,  and  was  opened  in  1867,  with  free 
tuition  for  young  men  of  the  State.  Its  campus  of  1 8  acres 
overlooks  the  Monongahela  River,  near  Morgantown.  The 
State  Agricultural  Experiment  Station,  and  a  Law  School  (with 
three  professors  and  19  students)  are  connected  with  the  Uni- 
versity. Bethany  College,  away  up  in  the  Pan  Handle,  16  miles 
north  of  Wheeling,  is  a  co-educational  Christian  school,  opened 


KANAWHA  RIVER  :    HAWK'S   NEST. 


884 


KING^S  HANDBOOK   OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 


BETHANY  I     BETHANY    COLLEGE. 


MORGANTOWN  :     WEST-VIRGINIA    UNIVERSITY. 


in  1841,  and  having  seven  professors  and  70  students,  with  700  graduates.  It  occupies  a 
line  of  handsome  collegiate  Gothic  buildings.  The  first  president,  and  for  many  years  a 
resident  here,  was  j  Alexander  Campbell,  a  man  of  remarkable  intellectual 

and  moral    ability,          Aa.  and  the  founder  of  the  Disciples  of  Christ,  or  Campbell- 

ites.   This  sect  rose          fj|&          in  half  a  century  to  a  membership  of  500,000. 

Chief  Cities. — Wheeling,  the  metrop- 
olis of  West  Virginia,  stretches  along  the 
Ohio  bottom-lands,  under  the  shadow  of 
bold  bluffs,  and  in  a  country  rich  in  to- 
bacco and  grain.  It  is  farther  north  than 
Philadelphia.  Among  its  many  manufac- 
tures, those  of  iron  and  steel  take  the  lead, 
employing  2,500  men,  and  gaining  for  Wheeling  the  title  of  "The  Nail  City."  Some  of 
the  finest  pottery  and  glassware  manufactured  in  this  country  is  made  here.  Several  rail- 
ways converge  here,  and  the  Ohio  River  furnishes  a  valuable  water-route,  with  Pittsburgh 
95  miles  above  (60  by  railroad);  Cincinnati,  365  miles  below,  and  other  ports.  Charles- 
ton, the  capital,  lies  in  the  Kanawha  Valley,  and  produces  vast  quantities  of  salt  from 
its  springs.  Parkersburg,  at  the  confluence  of  the  I 

Ohio  and  the  Little  Kanawha,  is  the  outlet  of  the 
petroleum  region,  and  has  refineries  and  manufac- 
tories. Martinsburg,  in  the  Valley  of  Virginia,  has 
large  railroad  repair-shops.  Harper's  Ferry  was 
founded  after  1732,  by  Robert  Harper,  an  English 
immigrant ;  and  in  1 794  the  United-States  arsenal 
began  its  operations  here. 

Railroads. —  The  Baltimore  &  Ohio  Railroad 
enters  from  Maryland,  on  the  east,  and  crosses  the  northern  part  of  the  State,  at  Grafton 
forking  into  the  Parkersburg  Division,  and  the  line  running  northwest  down  Tygart's  Val- 
ley to  the  upper  Ohio  and  Chicago.  The  Chesapeake  &  Ohio  Railroad  crosses  the  south- 
ern counties,  amid  beautiful  scenery  of  mountains  and  valleys,  on  its  way  from  Cincinnati 
to  Norfolk.  The  Ohio-River  Railroad  extends  along  the  river  for  215  miles,  from  Wheel- 
ing to  Parkersburg,  Point  Pleasant  and  Huntington, 
with  branches  leading  up  the  valleys.  The  West-Vir- 
ginia Central  runs  from  Cumberland  to  Elkins,  north 
and  west,  1 13  miles.  Several  narrow-gauge  lines  are 
operated  in  the  mountain  counties.  Railroad  extension 
has  gone  forward  rapidly  since  1885,  resulting  in  the 
development  of  rich  lumber  and  mining  districts. 

The  Manufactures  are  mainly  of  iron  and  steel, 
lumber  and  leather,  glass  and  flour,  and  employ  15,000 
persons,  with  a  yearly  product  of  $23,000,000.      Glass 
has  been  made  at  Wheeling  since  1820,  and  i,5°°  rnen 
are  now  engaged  there  in  the  manufacture  of  pressed  table-glass  and  bottles. 

The  Wheeling  potteries  make  vast  quantities  of  gran- 
ite and  decorated  ware,  china  and  queensware.  Wheel- 
ing also  manufactures  many  millions  of  stogies,  a  peculiar 
variety  of  long  and  slender  Kentucky-leaf  cigars,  very 
cheap  but  not  very  bad,  smoked  all  over  the  West  and 
Southwest,  and  in  their  humbler  grades  sold  for  a  cent 
apiece.  Their  name  is  said  to  be  an  abbreviation  of  Con- 
estoga,  from  the  rough-and-ready  Conestoga  wagons 
which  rolled  from  Pennsylvania  westward  long  ago.  MOUNT  DE  CHANTAL  FEMALE  ACADEMY. 


WHEELING  :     CITY    BUILDINGS. 


Frenchmen. 
1848 
775,88i 
1,054,670 
1,315,497 
1,309,618 
51,879 
910,072 
405,425 
680,069 
635,428 


All  over  Wisconsin,  par- 
ticularly along  the  shores 
of  the  lakes,  great  and 
small,  upon  her  river- 
benches,  and  crowning  the 
summits  of  her  rugged  hill- 
tops, are  the  curious  earth- 
works which  are  ascribed  to 
the  Mound-builders.  As  to 

their  age,  there  is  a  wide  difference  of  opinion  among  scien- 
tific observers.  As  to  who  the  Mound  -  builders  were, 
ethnologists  are  not  agreed.  Thus  there  is  abundant  room 
for  individual  speculation.  It  is,  however,  the  opinion  of 
many  of  the  most  careful  experts,  and  the  theory  accepted 
by  the  United-States  Ethnological  Bureau,  that  the  mounds 
are  not  the  product  of  a  race  of  people  now  extinct,  as  has 
been  so  long  believed,  but  that  they  were  built  by  the  an- 
cestors of  existing  tribes  of  Indians  —  in  Wisconsin,  the 
Dakotas,  of  whom  the  present  Winnebagoes  are  the  li'neal 
descendants  ;  and  that  while  many  of  the  mounds,  particu- 
larly those  in  the  forms  of  animals,  are  doubtless  of  great 
antiquity,  possibly  several  thousands  of  years  of  age,  others 
are  of  comparatively  recent  construction, — probably  not 
more  than  a  generation  or  two  earlier  than  the  arrival  of  the 
first  French  explorers. 

Nearly  2,000  implements  and  armaments  of  hardened 
copper,  chiefly  knives,  axes,  spear-  and  arrow-heads,  drills, 
awls,  beads  and  amulets,  have  been  picked  up  in  Wis- 
consin, chiefly  in  the  lake-shore  counties  and  on  the  shores 
of  inland  lakes,  and  sometimes  in  ancient  mounds.  Some 
maintain  that  these  articles  were  fashioned  ages  ago,  by  a 
peculiar  race  of  people,  and  that  the  art  of  hardening  cop- 
per has  been  lost  to  the  world ;  while  others  there  are  who 
believe  them  but  little  older  than  the  French  occupation, — 
and  some  have  been  so  bold  as  to  claim  that  the  first  Frenchmen  who  visited  Lake  Superior 
taught  to  the  Indians  the  art  of  working  the  metal,  just  as  other  Frenchmen  are  known  to 
have  initiated  the  natives  in  the  art  of  lead-working.  We  only  know  that  nowhere  else  in 


Settled  at La  Pointe. 

Settled  in 1665 


by    ... 
Hecame  a  State, 
Population  in  1860, 

In  1870 

In  1880,    . 
White,      .     .     . 
Colored,    .     .     . 
American-horn, 
Foreign-born,   . 

Males 

Females,       .... 

In  1890  (U.  S.  Census), 
Population  to  the  square  mile,     24.2 
Voting  Population,     .     .     .     340,482 

Vote  for  Harrison  (1888),       176,553 

Vote  for  Cleveland  (1888),  155,232 
Net  State  Debt,  ....  None. 
Assessed  Valuation  of 

Property  (itjoo),  .  $593,000,000 
Area  (square  miles),  .  .  .  56,040 
U.-S.  Representatives  (in  1893),  10 
Militia  (Disciplined),  .  .  2,659 

Counties, 

Post-offices,    .... 
Railroads  (miles),    . 
Vessels,     ..... 

Tonnage 

Manufactures  (yearly), 

Operatives,      .     .     . 

Yearly  Wages,    .    . 
Farm  Land  (in  acres),     .     15,353,11 

Farm-Land  Values,       $357,709,507 

Farm  Products  (yearly),  $72,779,496 
Public  Schools,  Average 

Daily  Attendance,  .     .     .     186,891 

Newspapers, 529 

Latitude,  ....  42^27'  to  47° ~N. 
Longitude,  .  .  86°53'  to  c.2053'  W. 
Temperature,  .  .  .  — 42°— 101° 
Mean  Temperature  (Madison),  45° 


TEN  CHIEF  CITIES   AND  THEIR   POP- 
ULATIONS.     (CENSUS  OF  1890.) 


Milwaukee,  .  . 

La  Crosse,    .  . 
Oshkosh, 

Racine,    .      .  . 

Eau  Claire,  .  . 

Sheboygan,  .  . 

Madison,       .  . 

Fond-du-Lac,  . 

Superior, .     .  . 

Appleton,     .  . 


204,468 
25,090 
22,836 
21,014 
17,415 
16,359 
13,426 
1 2,024 


886 


KlNG^S  HANDBOOK  OF  'THE    UNITED   STATES. 


the  United  States  have  so  many  prehistoric  copper  implements  been  found, — many  of  them 
identical  in  shape  with  those  found  in  Ireland  and  Switzerland;  and  in  no  other  State  are 
there  so  many  interesting  forms  of  prehistoric  mounds. 

In  1634  Frontenac,  then  governor  of  New  France,  sent  Jean  Nicolet,  a  coureur  du  bois, 
into  the  then  mysterious  region  of  the  Upper  Lakes,  to  make  treaties  with  the  Northwestern 


tribes,  and  induce  them  to  trade 
Canada.  He  ascended  the  Fox 
I  in,  then  proceeded  southward 
Michigan  on  his  way  home, 
age.  In  1658-9,  Radisson  and 
traders,  visited  Green  Bay  and 
thought)  descended  the  Wiscon- 
In  1 66 1  they  were  back  again  in 
near  where  Ashland  now  is.  In 
a  mission  at  La  Pointe,  on  Che- 
fort,  on  the  main  land.  It  was 
that  the  La-Pointe  mission  was 


with  the  French  of  Lower 
River  as  far  as  the  present  Ber- 
to  Illinois,  and  reached  Lake 
probably  by  the  Chicago  port- 
Groseilliers,  two  French  fur- 
went  up  Fox  River ;  and  (it  is 
sin,  and  saw  the  Mississippi. 
Wisconsin,  and  built  a  stockade 
1665,  Father  Allouez  established 
quamegon  Bay,  near  Radisson's 
not  until  the  present  century 

DALLES  OF  THE  WISCONSIN.  removed  to  Madelainc  Island. 
The  Jesuit  mission  of  St.  Francis  Xavier  arose  at  Depere,  at  the  first  rapids  in  the  Fox  River, 
two  years  later.  The  Green  Bay  (or  Bay  des  Puans)  of  the  lyth  century  was  not  on  the 
present  site  of  that  city,  but  at  Depere.  The  place  became  an  important  headquarters  for 
the  fur-trade,  although  it  was  1750  before  permanent  settlement  was  established  —  the 
Langlades  being  the  pioneers.  Joliet  and  Marquette  passed  through  here,  in  1673,  on  their 
way  up  the  Fox  and  down  the  Wisconsin,  to  explore  the  Upper  Mississippi.  The  following 
year,  Marquette  coasted  Lake  Michigan,  from  Green  Bay  by  Milwaukee  to  the  Chicago 
portage.  A  similar  trip  was  made  by  La  Salle,  in  1679  ;  and  it  was  among  the  islands  of 
Green  Bay  that  his  vessel,  the  Griffin,  was  lost  in  a  storm.  The  following  year,  Du  Luth, 
a  famous  French  trader,  voyaged  from  Lake  Superior  to  the  Mississippi  River,  by  ascending 
the  Bois  Brule  and  descending  the  St.  Croix.  Father  Hennepin  had,  the  same  year, 
ascended  the  Mississippi  as  far  as  the  site  of  Minneapolis,  and  on  falling  in  with  Du  Luth, 
returned  with  him,  by  the  Wisconsin  and  Fox  Rivers,  to  Green  Bay.  In  1685  Nicholas 
Perrot,  who  had  been  at  Green  Bay  as  early  as  1669,  was  appointed  French  "Command- 
ant of  the  West,"  and  built  a  stockade  fort  for  the  protection  of  his  fur-trade,  on  the  Mis- 
sissippi, near  Trempealeau.  In  1689  anc^  later,  Perrot  established  forts  on  Lake  Pepin  and 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Wisconsin  River,  at  Prairie  du  Chien.  In  1692,  Le  Sueur  built  a  stock- 
ade at  La  Pointe,  and  further  fortified  the  Mississippi.  Wisconsin  is  situated  at  the  head 
of  the  chain  of  Great  Lakes  ;  is  touched  on  the  east  by  Lake  Michigan,  on  the  north  by 
Lake  Superior,  and  on  the  west  by  the  Mississippi ;  and  is  drained  by  interlacing  rivers  which 
so  closely  approach  each  other  that  the  canoe  voyager  can  with  ease  pass  from  one  great 
water  system  to  the  other, — can  enter  the  continent  at  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  and  by 
narrow  portages  in  central  Wisconsin  emerge  into  the  south-flowing  Mississippi.  From 
Lake  Michigan,  the  Fox-Wisconsin  river  system  was  the  most  popular  highway  to  the  great 
river  ;  into  Lake  Superior  there  flow  numerous  streams  from  whose  sources  led  short  port- 
age-trails over  to  the  headwaters  of  feeders  of  the  Mississippi.  Thus  the  geographical 
character  of  Wisconsin  became,  very  early  in  the  history  of  New  France,  an  important  fac- 
tor. The  Jesuit  missions  on  Lake  Superior  and  Lake  Michigan  soon  played  a  prominent 
part  in  the  history  of  American  exploration ;  and  2^  centuries  ago,  when  the  Puritan  col- 
onies on  Massachusetts  Bay  were  yet  in  their  infancy,  and  long  before  the  intervening  coun- 
try had  been  visited,  the  general  features  of  the  map  of  Wisconsin  and  the  route  thither 
were  familiar  to  the  rulers  of  Quebec. 

Wisconsin  was  notable,  too,  in  those  early  days,  as  a  hiding-place  for  tribes  of  Algon- 
quins,  who  had  been  driven  beyond  Lake  Michigan,  before  the  resistless  onslaught  of  the 
Iroquois,  who,  however,  often  ventured  into  these  forest  fastnesses  and  massacred  the 


THE  STATE   OF    WISCONSIN. 


887 


crouching  fugitives.  The  country  was,  for  a  century  and  a  half,  the  happy  hunting- 
ground  for  the  easy-going  French  —  licensed  traders  and  cmtreitrs  du  bois  as  well  — and  in 
the  French-ami- Indian  war  was  a  favorite  recruiting  field  for  those  disciplined  bands  of 
redskins  who  periodically  broke  forth  upon  the  borders,  filling  the  life  of  American  pioneers 
with  scenes  of  horror.  It  was  Langlade,  a  Wisconsin  leader  of  these  savage  allies,  who 


caught  Braddock  in  his  slaugh- 
fellows  bore  away  to  the  trans- 
of  the  scalps  and  spoils  won 
When  New  France  fell,  in 
by  George  III.  a  part  of  the 
essentially  French.  The  flag  of 
the  rude  stockade  at  Green  Bay, 
French  and  Indians,  in  all  grades 
transferred  their  allegiance  to 
half-bloods,  throughout  the 


OSHKOSH  :    FIRST   WARD  SCHOOL. 


ter-pen,  and  whose  swarthy 
Michigan  woods  a  goodly  share 
on  that  fateful  day. 
1763,  Wisconsin  —  now  made 
Province  of  Quebec — remained 
England  waved  for  a  time  over 
but  the  woods  were  filled  with 
of  blood  relationship,  who  had 
the  conqueror.  French  and 
War  of  the  Revolution,  wore 
Majesty's  army. 


the    scarlet   uniforms    of    His 

Although  the  Northwest  was  given  to  the  United  States  in  the  treaty  of  1783,  the  Eng- 
lish were  practically  in  military  possession  of  Wisconsin  until  the  close  of  the  war  of  1812-15. 
It  was  nominally  in  the  Northwest  Territory  until  1800;  then  a  part  of  Indiana  Territory 
until  1809.  Illinois  Territory  included  Wisconsin  until  1818,  when  Michigan  Territory 
assumed  control.  When  Wisconsin  Territory  came  into  being,  in  1836,  it  included  also  Iowa, 
Minnesota  and  Dakota  east  of  the  Missouri  and  White-Earth  Rivers.  Parts  of  this  domain 
were  ceded  to  Iowa,  in  1838,  and  to  Minnesota  in  1849.  Early  in  the  present  century 
Congress  excluded  British  traders  ;  and  erected  Fort  Howard,  opposite  the  French  and  Indian 
village  of  Green  Bay,  and  Fort  Crawford,  at  the  fur-trading  post  of  Prairie  du  Chien. 

Up  to  this  time  the  French  and  half-bloods  still  held  Wisconsin  woods  and  streams,  and 
the  fur-trade  was  the  chief  industry.  Little  by  little,  this  French  predominance  was  under- 
mined, at  first  by  the  advent  of  Americans  into  the  lead  mines  (1827),  and  then  by  agricul- 
tural settlers.  The  Black-Hawk  war  (1832),  wherein  the  Sacs  and  Foxes  were  cowed,  was 
an  important  factor  in  the  opening  of  the  region  to  public  view.  American  settlement  and 
development  along  American  lines,  now  began  in  earnest.  The  fur-trade  ceased  to  be  of 
importance,  the  non-progressive  French  element  subsided  into  insignificance,  immigrants 
from  the  East  were  attracted  by  cheap  lands  on  easy  terms,  and  thenceforth  Wisconsin  was 


an  American  territory, 
powerful  and  patriotic 
in  1834;  Sheboygan,  in 
Milwaukee,  Janesville  and 
in  1837;  Whitewater,  in 
Stevens  Point,  in  1843  '•> 
In  modern  days,  the 
terruptedly  in  peaceful 
growing  into  a  great  and 
The  late  civil  war  drew 
of  Wisconsin  an  army  of 


OCONOMOWOC  :    PARISH  CHURCH. 


which  rapidly  grew  into  a 
State.  Racine  was  founded 
1834;  Kenosha,  in  1835; 
Oshkoshin  1836;  Madison, 
1839;  La  Crosse,  in  1840; 
and  Appleton,  in  1848. 
State  has  advanced  unin- 
and  profitable  industries, 
powerful  commonwealth, 
from  the  farms  and  cities 
over  90,000  men,  for  the 


defense  of  the  Republic.  Nearly  one  third  of  the  population  is  of  European  birth,  includ- 
ing 250,000  from  Germany  and  Scandinavia,  and  80,000  from  the  British  Isles,  with  col- 
onies of  Belgians  and  Swiss.  Three  fourths  of  the  people  are  of  foreign  birth  or  parentage, 
including  600,000  of  German  extraction,  and  over  100,000  of  Scandinavian  origin.  The 
German  type  will  predominate  here,  making  a  fair  and  stalwart  race.  Although  possessing 
this  unusual  preponderance  of  the  European  element,  Wisconsin  does  not  differ  ethically 
from  her  sister  States  of  the  Northwest,  because  the  immigrants  are  in  most  ways  thor- 
oughly Americanized,  making  good  citizens,  intelligent  voters,  and  patriotic  soldiers. 


sss 


AVAL'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


WEST    SUPERIOR  :    DULUTH  ELEVATOR  CO. 


The  Menomonce  Indians,  1,442  strong,  pa 
Catholic  and  part  Pagan,  occupy  a  section  of 
the  great  northern  pine  forest,  and  are  an  hon- 
est and  peaceful  people,  without  over-stringency 
of  morals.  There  are  four  bands  of  Chippewa. 
Indians,  at  Lac  du  Flambeau,  Lac  Court  d'Or- 
eilles,  Bad  River  and  Red  Cliff,  numbering;'. 
2,628  persons.  Wisconsin  has  also  about 
1,400  Winnebagoes  and  Prairie  Pottawatomies,  \ 
nominally  dwelling  on  homesteads  of  40  acres 
per  adult,  in  severally,  but  practically  roaming  free.  The  Stockbridge  Indians  are  the  rem- 
nant of  the  ancient  Housatonic  tribe,  who  dwelt  in  the  beautiful  Berkshire  Hills  of  Massa-; 
chusetts,  and  were  converted  to  Christianity  by  Jonathan  Edwards  and  other  Puritan  divines. 
They  fought  bravely  for  America  in  the  Revolution,  and  then,  400  strong,  moved  away  to 
Oneida  County  (N.  Y. ).  They  were  deported,  34  years  later,  to  the  pine-woods  of  Wis- 
consin. The  Stockbridges  still  keep  up  their  church,  with  two  services  weekly,  reading 
over  and  over  a  volume  of  old  sermons,  in  default  of  a  pastor.  The  Oneidas,  a  remnant  of 
the  Six  Nations  of  New  York,  number  2,000,  on  a  reservation  of  65,540  acres,  near  Green 
Bay.  They  have  many  good  farms  and  buildings,  and  a  stone  church,  paid  for  by  their 
own  money.  Outside  the  reservation  are  many  Stockbridges 
(chiefly  in  Calumet  County),  who  are  citizens,  and  engaged  for  the 
most  part  in  farming. 

The  Name  of  Wisconsin  is  derived  from  its  chief  river.  The 
Indians  themselves  are  at  a  loss  to  explain  it.  Some  call  it  a  Chip- 
pewa phrase,  Wees-kon-san,  "the  gathering  of  the  waters;"  others 
say  that  it  means  "westward  flowing,"  from  the  French  0z/^tf  (west), 
and  the  Algonquin  ing,  meaning  at  or  by ;  and  the  late  Very  Rev. 
Edward  Jacker,  a  thorough  Indian  philologist,  believed  it  to  be  from 
the  Chippewa,  Wishkosisibi,  "Grass  River,"  or  "  Prairie  River. " 

In  early  lead-mining  days,  the  miners  from  Illinois  and  farther 
south  returned  home  every  winter,  and  came  back  to  the  diggings  in  the  spring,  thus  imi- 
tating the  migrations  of  the  fish  popularly  called  the  "sucker,"  in  the  Rock,  Illinois,  and 
other  south-flowing  rivers  of  the  region.  For  this  reason,  the  south  winterers  were  called 
"Suckers"  and  Illinois  became  "The  Sucker  State."  On  the  other  hand,  miners  from  the 
Eastern  States  were  unable  to  return  home  every  winter,  and  at  first  lived  in  rude  dug-outs, 
burrowing  after  the  fashion  of  the  badger  (Taxidea  Americana).  These  men  were  the  first 
permanent  settlers  in  the  mines  north  of  the  Illinois  line,  and  Wisconsin  thus  became  dubbed 
THE  BADGER  STATE.  Contrary  to  general  belief,  the  badger  itself  is  not  frequently  found 
in  Wisconsin. 

The  Arms  of  Wisconsin  bear  a  shield,  on  which  is  displayed 
the  shield  of  the  United-States  arms,  under  a  scroll  bearing  the 
motto  E  Pluribus  Unum.  In  the  quarterings  are  an  anchor  on 
the  right,  a  mechanic's  arm  holding  a  hammer  on  the  left,  in  the 
lower  quartering  a  spade  and  pickaxe  crossed,  and  a  break- 
ing-plow above.  The  supporters  are  a  sailor  and  a  miner,  with 
an  open  cornucopia  and  a  pile  of  pig-lead  below.  The  crest  is  a 
beaver  standing  on  a  roll.  The  motto  is  :  FORWARD. 

The    Governors    of  Wisconsin  have    been :     Territorial : 
Henry  Dodge,  1836-41  ;  James  D.  Doty,  1841-4;  Nathaniel  P. 
Tallmage,    1844-5;    Henry   Dodge,    1845-7.     State:     Nelson 
Dewey,  1847-52;  Leonard  J.  Farwell,  1852-4;  Wm.  A.   Bars- 
otviL-8  LAKE.  tow,  1854-6  ;  Arthur  McArthur,  1856  ;  Coles  Bashford,  1856-8; 


DALLES  OF  THE  WISCONSIN. 


THE  STATE   OF   WISCONSIN. 


889 


Alex.  W.  Randall,  1858-62;  Louis  P.  Harvey,  1862;  Edward  Salomon,  1862-4;  James 
T.  Lewis,  1864-6;  Lucius  Fairchild,  1866-72;  C.  C.  Washburn,  1872-4;  Wm.  R.  Taylor, 
1874-6;  Harrison  Ludington,  1876-8;  Wm.  E.  Smith,  1878-82;  Jeremiah  R.  Rusk, 
1882-9;  Wm.  D.  Hoard,  1889-91;  and  George  W.  Peck,  1891-3. 

Descriptive. —  On  the  south,  Wisconsin's  pleasant  prairies  melt  away  into  the  rich 
levels  of  Illinois.  Westward,  the  broad  Mississippi,  and  its  tributary,  the  St.  Croix,  sepa- 
rate the  Badger  State  from  Iowa  and  Minnesota.  On  the  east,  the  broad  inland  sea  of 
Lake  Michigan  flows  for  200  miles  along  the  Wisconsin  coast ;  and  on  the  north,  Lake  Su- 
perior has  a  shore-line  of  120  miles.  The  northeast  is  bounded  by  the  rugged  Upper  Pen- 
insula of  Michigan,  and  shares  its  abounding  mineral  wealth.  The  highest  part  of  Wisconsin 
is  along  the  Penokee  and  the  rugged  connected  ranges,  near  the  Montreal  River,  and  1,800 
feet  above  the  sea.  These  picturesque  wooded  mountains  swing  around  the  sources  of  the 
Chippewa  and  Wisconsin,  at  a  general  height  of  about  1,000  feet,  separating  the  Mississippi 
waters  from  those  of  the  Lake-Superior  streams.  The  ranges  of  the  north  come  within  30 
miles  of  Lake  Superior,  whence  the  land  falls  away  rapidly  to  the  lake ;  and  a  low  water- 
shed runs  south  into  Illinois,  the  streams  on  one  side  flowing  to'the  Mississippi,  and  on  the 
other  to  Lake  Michigan.  Four  fifths  of  the  State  is  drained  into  the  Mississippi,  which 
lion's  along  the  western  border  for  40x3  miles,  a  noble  avenue  of  commerce. 

The  southwestern  counties  have  a  series  of  singular  isolated  knobs,  rising  with  fine 
effect  above  the  level  lowlands,  and  landmarks  over  leagues  of  prairie.  Sinsinnewa  Mound 
is  1,169  feet  high  ;  Platte  Mound,  1,281;  and  the  Blue  Mounds,  1,729.  The  lower  part  of 
the  State  is  an  extension  of  the  great  rolling  prairie  of  Illinois,  beautified  by  many  pleasant 
oak-openings  and  park-like  bits  of  forest,  and  occupied  by  a  prosperous  farming  population. 
Northward  the  woodlands  encroach  more  and  more  on  the  prairies,  until  they  cover  the 
whole  country  with  their  profound  shades,  which  are  broken  by  the  sparkling  waters  of  thou- 
sands of  bright  lakes  and  ponds.  Forests  still  cover  nearly  half  of  Wisconsin,  whose  exports  of 
lumber  are  only  excelled  by  Michigan  and  Pennsylvania.  The  pineries  are  a  source  of  great 
wealth,  because  of  the  unceasing  demand  for  lumber  from  the  prairie  States;  and  $27,000, - 
ooo  worth  of  lumber,  lath  and  shingles  are  made  here  yearly,  by  30,000  men.  The  Wis- 
consin forests  have  developed  an  enormous  value,  and  now  produce  1,500,000,000  feet  of 
lumber  and  over  1,000,000,000  lathes  and  shingles  every  year. 

Oneida  County  is  famous  for  its  pine  and  other  timber  lands,  and  besides  this,  it  has  been 
regarded  as  a  possible  field  for  mineral  developments,  bordering  as  it  does  on  the  State  line 
between  Wisconsin  and  Michigan,  directly  adjacent  to  th'e  great  mines  of  the  Upper  Penin- 
sula. Over  80,000  acres  of  land  in  this  county  are  owned  by  the  Land,  Log  &  Lumber 
Company,  a  staunch  Wisconsin  corporation,  operating  with 
a  paid-in  capital  of  $2,140,000,  under  the  presidency  of 
David  M.  Benjamin,  of  Milwaukee,  a  resident  of  the  north- 
west for  28  years,  and  now  representative  of  Wisconsin  on 
the  World's  Fair  Commission.  These  80,000  acres  are 
mainly  white  pine  lands  along  the  Wisconsin  River,  and  on 
tributaries  of  the  Wisconsin  and  Chippewa  Rivers.  They 
are  as  yet  chiefly  a  part  of  the  great  timber  wilderness,  but 
at  no  distant  day  will  become  of  immense  value  for  their 
lumber.  Already  much  lumbering  is  being  carried  on  at 
various  points,  such  as  Wausau  with  12,000  inhabitants, 
Merrill  with  7,000,  Tomahawk  with  2,500,  and  Rhinelander 
2,500.  At  these  places  about  350,000,000  feet  of  lumber 
are  made  annually.  There  is  besides  the  pine,  a  vast  quantity 
of  oak  and  birch  used  for  finishing  ;  basowood  used  for 
furniture ;  and  poplar  and  spruce  extensively  used  in  paper 
makinir  in  Wisconsin  and  other  States.  Several  railroads  ONEIDA  COUNTY;  LAND,  LOG  &  LUMBER  co. 


890 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF    7VIE    UNITED   STATES. 


DALLES  OF  THE  WISCONSIN. 


either  go  through  or  close  by  parts  of  the  lane 
owned  by  the  Land,  Log  &  Lumber  Company- 
the  Chicago,  Milwaukee  &  St. -Paul,  the  "Soo,' 
and  the  Milwaukee,  Lake-Shore  &  Westen 
Outside  of  Oneida  County  the  company  owi 
8,000  acres  in  Douglas  County,  and  various  otht 
properties,  aggregating  120,000  acres. 

The  fine  and  imposing  isolated  hills  of  sand- 
stone scattered  over  a  wide  area  north  and  north- 
west of  the  Dalles  of  the  Wisconsin  constitut 
another  marked  feature.     These  (like  Pentwell 
Peak)  are  often  very  abrupt,  with  castellated  summits  and  wild  ai 
rugged  slopes.     They  are  for  the  most  part  isolated,  and  rise  fror 

low  level  land,  and  so  are  all  the  more  striking.  Beyond  the  sound  of  the  woodmen's  axes 
bears,  deer,  elk,  porcupines,  wolves,  lynxes,  and  many  smaller  animals  are  found  in  the 
vast  and  lonely  northern  forests. 

Wisconsin  abounds  in  phases  of  charming  scenery,  like  the  deep-cut  Rood's  Glen  am 
Witches'  Gulch,  near  Kilbourn  ;  the  rugged  castellated  crag  of  Pentwell  Peak  ;  the  falls 
the  Chippewa  and  the  St.  Croix  ;  the  high-towered  Fortification  Rock,  and  the 
cliffs  overhanging  Lake  Pepin.    There  are  hundreds  of  deep-cut  lakes,  with  high 
banks  and  romantic  surroundings  of  field  and  forest.      Many  of  them  are  set  in 
bowls  of  rock,  or  glacial  drift,  over  whose  rims  their  crystal  tides  flow  without 
ceasing.     The  largest  of  the  lakes  is  Winnebago,  30  miles  long  and  ten  miles- 
wide,  whose  scenery  charmed  and  attracted  the  pioneers  until  its  peaceful 
shores  were  lined  with  villages.      Geneva  Lake,  the  chief  of  the  25  lakes  of 
Wai  worth,  is  pleasantly  endowed  with  bold  bluffs,  high  wooded 
banks  and  winding  shores,  and  has  for  many  years  been  a  favorite 
summer-resort  for  Chicagoans.     Devil's  Lake,  near  "the  serene 
vale  of  Kirkwood, "  in  Sauk  County,  is  a  deep  emerald  pool,  half 
a  league  long,  enwalled  by  rugged  rocky  and  wooded  bluffs,  over 
400  feet  high,  and  the  remarkable  quartzite  rocks  of  Cleopatra's 
Needle,  the  Devil's  Door-way,  and  other  strange  formations,  stand- 
ing on  imposing  bluffs.     Green   Lake,  six  miles  west  of  Ripon, 
15  by  three  miles  in  area,    sparkles  in  a  paradise  of  groves  and 
prairies ;  and  Elkhart,  Delavan,  Lauderdale,  Spring,  Tomahawk, 
Oconomowoc,  Okauchee,  Nashotah,  Pewaukee,  and  the  Four  Lakes  of  Madison,  and  other 
inland  waters  attract  great  numbers  of  visitors  every  summer. 

Located  in  the  little  village  of  Waukesha,  20  miles  west  of  Milwaukee,  near  Lake  Mich- 
igan, and  within  100  miles  of  Chicago,  is  one  of  the  most  famous  health-resorts  in  the  world. 
The  time  is  past  when  it  is  necessary  for  invalids  to  go  to  the  European  spas,  for  right  ir 

the  United  States  are  baths  and  springs  with  medicim 
properties  equal  if  not  superior  to  any  in  Europe.     Ii 
Waukesha  are  ten  springs,  but  only  one  of  great  power. 
That  one,  which  is  the  famous  "Bethesda,  "  was  tl 
pioneer,  and  stands  to-day  without  a  rival.     This  wz 
discovered  in  1868  by  Col.  Richard  Dunbar,  and  sine 
that  time  its  popularity  has  been  steadily  growing.    Nc 
only  in  this  country  is  Bethesda  -water  in  extensive  us 
but  in  Europe,  where,   in  the  face  of  the  opposition 
famous  European  waters,  it  has  been  in  use  at  so  con- 
servative an  institution  as  Guy's  Hospital  of  Londor 
GENEVA  LAKE.  In  connection  with  the  spring  are  the  Bethesda  Baths, 


MILWAUKEE   : 
CHAMBER  OF  COMMERCE. 


WAUKESHA:  BETHESDA  MINERAL  SPRING. 
The  spring  is  in  a  pavilion  in  the  centre 


THE  STATE   OF    WISCONSIN. 

which  are  open  from  June  to  October.  The  water 
is  shipped  to  all  parts  of  the  world  by  the  Bethesda 
Mineral- Spring  Company,  but  is  never  sold  or 
shipped  in  any  other  way  than  in  the  regular  Beth- 
esda half-gallon  bottle,  with  the  Bethesda  labels 
and  signatures.  The  plant  of  this  company  covers 
20  acres,  much  of  it  being  taken  up  by  the  lovely 
park  where  the  spring  is  located.  Besides  the  park, 
the  company  have  a  two-story  bottling-house,  where 
about  20  men  are  employed  the  whole  year  around. 
The  company  was  the  first  to  put  up  natural  water 
in  light-green  apollinaris-shaped  half-gallon  bot- 
tles, and  adheres  absolutely  to  the  Bethesda  bottle 
to  avoid  fraud.  Natural  Bethesda  is  a  cure  for 
diabetes  and  Bright's  disease ;  while  the  efferves- 
cent Bethesda  is  a  perfect  table-water,  no  doubt 
ever  being  raised  as  to  its  purity.  Owing  to  its 
mineral  qualities,  it  creates  gastric  juice,  and  is  an 
aid  to  proper  digestion.  The  company  also  manu- 
factures a  brand  of  ginger  ale,  which  is  considered 
exceptionally  fine,  using  Bethesda  water  as  a  basis, 
of  the  park,  and  only  about  300  feet  from  the  bath-house.  It  is  reached  by  a  descending 
asphalt  walk,  and  is  enclosed  by  an  iron  railing.  The  spring  bubbles  up  from  the  bottom  of  a 

marble  basin  of  octagon  shape,  and  backed  by  heavy 
cut-stone  masonry ;  the  water  flows  continuously, 
never  varying  and  never  freezing. 

Near  the  world-famous  Bethesda  spring  is  the 
exceptionally  favorite  Fountain- Spring  House,  of 
Waukesha.  This  hotel,  like  the  Bethesda  spring, 
to  which  it  owes  its  location,  is  of  rare  excellence. 
It  is  built  entirely  of  stone  and  brick.  The  first  house 
was  burned  in  1878.  In  1879  the  present  hotel  was 
built,  at  a  cost  of  about  $1,250,000.  It  covers 
about  three  acres  of  ground,  and  has  a  quarter  of 
a  mile  of  veranda.  In  the  dining-rooms,  of  which  there  are  three,  800  people  may  be 
served.  The  largest  of  these  dining-rooms  will  seat  500.  The  hotel  is  surrounded  by  155 
acres  of  private  grounds,  laid  out  in  the  form  of  a  park.  There  is  attached  to  the  hotel  the 
largest  bathing  establishment  in  the  Northwest.  There  are  two  pools  of  mineral  water, 
clear  as  crystal,  and  warmed  to  a  comfortable  temperature  by  steam  pipes.  Each  pool  meas- 
ures 50  by  80  feet.  One  of  them  is  for  gentlemen,  and  the  other  for  ladies  and  children.  The 
Fountain-Spring  House,  by -reason  of  the  beneficial  local  springs,  the  charming  surroundings, 
the  substantial  character  of  the  buildings,  and  the  pleasant  drives,  has  become  one  of  the  most 
satisfactory  resorts  in  the  country  and  secures  its  great  patronage  from  an  unusually  select 
clientage.  This  is  one  of  the  largest,  most  modern 
and  most  successful  summer-resort  hotels  in  Amer- 
ica. It  is  open  from  June  I5th  to  September  I5th. 

The  Ton-ya-wath-a  Springs,  near  Madison ; 
Vita  Springs,  at  Beaver  Dam ;  Palmyra  Springs, 
and  other  summer-resorts  of  similar  character  are 
well  patronized,  particularly  by  the  people  of  the 
Southern  States.  On  La  Madelaine,  one  of  the 
Apostle  Islands,  in  Chequamegon  Bay,  Lake  WAUKESHA  :  FOUNTAIN-SPRING  HOUSE. 


WAUKESHA  :    BETHESD 


MILWAUKEE  I     COUNTY  COURT  HOUSE. 


892  KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE    UNITED   STATES. 

Superior,  still  remains  the  half-deserted  Chippewa  hamlet  of  La  Pointe,  the  great  metropolis 
of  the  Lake-Superior  country  in  the  days  of  the  Indians  and  fur-traders  and  Canadian  voy- 
ageurs,  early  in  the  present  century.  The  old  Catholic  church  there  was  built  by  Father 
Barega,  about  60  g  years  ago.  The  Apostle  Islands  cover  200  square 

miles  of  woodlands      Q  »g  and  wave-worn  cliffs,  about  which  the  waters  of 

Lake  Superior  flow     Jfl^  5^-taJwB?,/  m  bright  blue  labyrinths. 

The  Mississippi  River  caresses  the  Wisconsin 
shores  for  400  miles,  amid  scenes  of  unusual 
beauty ;  its  clear  and  limpid  waters  flowing 
around  hundreds  of  oak-crowned  islands,  and 
along  the  fronts  of  heavily  wooded  hills  and 
castellated  sandstone  walls,  overlooked  by 
nature's  rugged  towers  and  splintered  spires  of 
white  limestone.  Here  and  there  smiling  prairies 
break  the  succession  of  dark  ridges  and  ravines; 
or  bright  streams  come  rippling  out  from  the 
woodlands ;  or  white  villages  gleam  along  the 
tranquil  shores.  Mountain  Island  shoots  up  to 
a  height  of  560  feet  above  the  quiet  waters,  and  bore  among  the  French  voyagcurs  the  name 
of  Le  ATont  qui  trempe  &  V Eau  ("The  Mountain  which  dips  in  the  water").  This  name 
still  lingers  in  the  pretty  village  of  Trempealeau,  five  miles  south.  Farther  up,  the  river 
broadens  into  Lake  Pepin,  25  miles  long,  and  in  places  five  miles  wide,  and  bordered  by 
picturesque  bluffs  800  feet  high.  The  Mississippi  receives  from  Wisconsin  the  St.-Croix, 
Chippewa,  Buffalo,  Trempealeau,  Black 
and  Wisconsin  Rivers,  besides  many 
smaller  streams.  The  Wisconsin,  from 
its  source  in  the  remote  Vieux-Desert 
Lake  to  the  Mississippi,  is  600  miles 
long,  and  cuts  the  State  in  halves.  It 
is  navigable  for  200  miles,  to  Portage 
City.  Near  Kilbourn  City,  the  Wiscon- 
sin flows  for  more  than  two  leagues 
through  the  Dalles,  between  sheer  walls  of  friable  sandstone,  cut  into  curious  forms  by 
the  action  of  the  water.  Thousands  of  tourists  visit  this  region  every  season.  The 
Chippewa  is  300  miles  long ;  the  powerful  St.  -Croix,  200;  and  the  Black,  200.  The 
Fox  River  has  a  length  of  250  miles,  and  at  Portage  City  is  joined  to  the  Wisconsin 
by  a  Government  canal  half  a  league  long,  following  the  portage  traversed  by  many 
generations  of  Indians,  fur-traders,  Jesuit  priests  and  French,  English  and  American 
soldiers,  on  their  way  by  canoe  between  the  Mississippi  and  Lake  Michigan. 

In  its  40-mile  course  between  Lake  Winnebago  and  Green  Bay,  the  Fox  River  produces 
a  great  water-power,  which  is  availed  of  by  the  factories   of  Menasha,  Neenah,  Appleton, 

FIBS  Kaukauna  and  Depere.  The  Menomonee  and 
iiSil  Oconto,  each  130  miles  long,  flow  into  Green 
Bay,  a  fine  estuary  running  100  miles  southwest 
from  Lake  Michigan,  towards  Lake  Winnebago, 
and  named  from  its  color,  due  to  its  80  fathoms 
of  depth.  The  Sheboygan,  Milwaukee,  Manito- 
woc  and  Kewaunee  flow  into  Lake  Michigan, 
with  improved  harbors  at  their  mouths.  The 
Montreal,  Bois-Brule,  St.  Louis  and  other  streams 
descend  swiftly  to  Lake  Superior,  falling  600  to 
800  feet  over  many  a  cascade  and  cataract.  The 


MADISON  :     UNIVERSITY    OF    WISCONSIN. 


LAKE    PEPIN,   ON     THE 
MISSISSIPPI    RIVER. 


THE  STATE   OF    WISCONSIN. 


893 


Bois  Brule  is  one  of  the  most  famous  of  the  many  Wisconsin  treating 
streams,  and  is  visited  by  many  sportsmen  every  summer. 

The  whitefish  and  trout  of  the  Great   Lakes  form  an  important 
article  of  commerce ;  and  pike  and  pickerel,  bass  and  muskallonge, 
perch  and  sturgeon,  and  brook-trout  abound  in  the  clear  Wisconsin 
waters.     The  State  Fish   Commission  is  contin- 
ually active  in  keeping  up  this  valuable  supply  of 
food-fish,  and  has  a  completely   appointed  main 
hatchery  at  Nine  Springs,  four  miles  from  Madi- 
son, as  well  as  a  large  whitefish  hatchery  at  Mil- 
waukee. 

The  Climate    is    subject  to  high  extremes, 
with  warm  summers,  averaging  60°  in  the  north 
and   70°  in   the  south,    and   long,    dry   and   cold 
winters,  ranging  from  25°  to  15°.    The  neighbor- 
hood of  the  Great  Lakes  warms  the  air  in  winter 
and  cools  it  in  summer.      Snow  often  remains  on 
the  ground  all  winter,  and  the  lakes  and  rivers  are 
generally  frozen  from  December  until  March.   The 
autumnal  seasons  are  mild  and  pleasant,  but  the 
springs  are  backward.     The  rainfall  is  31  inches  in  the  south,  and  35  on  the  northern  coast. 
The  Farm-Products  of  Wisconsin  reach  $105,000,000  a  year,  and  happily  include  a 
great  diversity  of  crops,  so  that  the  failure  of  any  one  can  be  endured  without  distress. 
Among   the    yearly    products  are    oats,    50,000,000  bushels;    corn,   30,000,000;    wheat, 
1       13,  ooo,  ooo;  barley,  1 2,  ooo, ooo;  potatoes,  1 2, ooo,  ooo ;  apples,  1 , 700,  ooo; 
A     2,300,000  tons  of  hay;  and  30,000,000  pounds  of  tobacco  for  cigar 
wrappers.     Barley  and  rye  also  form  articles  of  a  large  commerce ;  and 
^tJH  the  product  of  fruit  is  considerable,  including  choice 

apples  and  cranberries.  In  the  growth  of  hops,  Wis- 
consin once  stood  among  the  foremost.  In  1867-8  the 
famous  hop-fever  swept  over  the  State,  and  imrr?" 
areas  of  land  were  planted  with  hops,  011.7  .o  DC 
ploughed  up  a  year  or  two  later,  when  the  price  had 
fallen  from  55  cents  a  pound  to  ten  cents.  The  fer- 
tile and  easily  tilled  limestone  prairies  of  the  southwest 
are  remarkably  fruitful,  and  contain  thousands  of  pros- 


MILWAUKEE  : 

SCENES    IN    THE 

PARKS. 


WASHINGTON   MONUMENT. 


pe 


MILWAUKEE  :    WATER  TOWER. 

rous  farms.  The  north  and  east  is  overlaid  with  rich  sandy  and  clayey  loams ;  while  much 
of  central  Wisconsin  has  a  poor  and  sandy  soil.  The  principal  market  for  flax  is  Kenosha ; 
and  for  tobacco,  Bdgerton,  Stoughton  and  Madison.  Wild  rice  grows  about  the  lakes,  and 
the  Indians  find  it  valuable  for  food.  The  Menomonees 
get  their  name  "wild-rice  eaters"  from  this  fact.  The  live- 
stock of  Wisconsin  is  valued  at  $80,000,000,  and  numbers 
1,200,000  cattle,  400,000  horses,  900,  ooo  sheep  and  800,000 
swine.  The  yearly  product  of  the  dairies  is  $12,000,000, 
and  includes  36,000,000  pounds  of  butter  and  33,000,000 
pounds  of  cheese.  This  business  centres  at  Sheboygan. 

Minerals. —  Wisconsin  is  one  of  the  foremost  iron 
States,  and  sends  from  her  northern  highlands  800,000  tons 
yearly  of  specular  and  magnetic  ores.  These  are  the 
famous  ores  of  the  Lake-Superior  region,  and  occur  here  in 
abundant  deposits  of  the  richest  quality,  mainly  in  the 
Penokee  Range,  and  the  northeastern  counties.  Red 


MILWAUKEE:   ST. -PAUL'S  CHURCH. 


896 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


Madison.  It  is  supported  by  a  State  tax 
of  one  eighth  mill  on  the  dollar,  and  has 
an  income  exceeding  $100,000.  The 
University  numbers  54  persons  in  its  fac- 
ulty, and  800  students,  including  70  in  the 
classical  course,  90  in  science,  1 10  in  en- 
gineering, loo  in  law  and  35  in  pharmacy. 
The  Washburn  Observatory,  built  in 
1878-80,  at  a  cost  of  $50,000,  and  given 
MILWAUKEE.  to  fae  University,  with  a  full  equipment, 

by  Gov.  C.  C.  Washburn,  has  published  many  volumes  of  its  transactions.     Connected  with 
the  University  is  the  State  Experimental  Station,  one  of  the  best  in  the  country. 

Beloit  College,  "the  Yale  of  the  West,"  was  founded  in  the  year  1847  by  tne  Congrega- 
tional and  Presbyterian  ministers  of  the  surrounding  counties,  for  the  thorough  liberal 
Christian  education  of  young  men.  It  has  a  pleasant  campus  of  24  acres,  on  a  plateau 
dotted  with  oak-openings  and  Indian  mounds,  and  sloping  down  to  Rock  River ;  and  eight 
buildings,  including  the  handsome  stone  Memorial  Hall,  containing  the  library  of  14,000 
volumes,  and  commemorating  on  its  tablets  those  who  perished  out  of  the  400  Beloit 
students  who  enlisted  in  the  civil  war.  Beloit  has  been  notable  for  the  great  number  of 
clergymen  among  its  graduates.  It  has  20  instructors  and  100  students,  besides  a  prepar- 
atory academy  of  great  merit,  with  250  pupils.  In  1889  Beloit's 
endowment  and  property  were  increased  by  nearly  $250,000, 
by  a  series  of  noble  efforts  on  the  part  of  its  graduates  and 
friends.  Racine  College  is  a  creation  of  the  Episcopal  Church 

in  Wisconsin,  and  has  a  spacious  quadrangle  of  handsome  I  Bpl^if-  ''«&• 
Gothic  buildings  on  a  bluff  over  Lake  Michigan.  It  was  opened  * 
in  1852;  and  from  1859  to  1879  came  under  the  care  of  the 
Rev.  Dr.  James  DeKoven,  who  gave  it  the  character  of  the 
great  English  public  schools,  with  careful  moral,  spiritual  and 
intellectual  training.  In  1890  the  collegiate  department  was  abandoned  for  lack  of  support. 
There  remain,  however,  115  students  in  the  preparatory  school.  Lawrence  University  was 
founded  in  1847,  ^7  tne  bounty  of  Amos  A.  Lawrence,  of  Boston,  in  the  rugged  wilderness 
where  the  city  of  Appleton  now  stands.  It  belongs  to  the  Methodists,  and  has  70  students. 
Ripon  College  began  its  labors  in  1853,  and  owns  three  stone  halls,  in  a  pleasant  campus  of 
twelve  acres.  It  is  a  Congregational  and  co-educational  school.  Milton  College  dates  fron 
1867,  and  pertains  to  the  Seventh-Day  Baptists.  Galesville  University  is  a  small  Presby- 
terian school.  Northwestern  University,  at  Watertown,  is  Lutheran.  Carroll  College,  at 
Waukesha,  was  chartered  in  1852.  Nashotah  House  was  founded  by  the  Episcopal  Churcl 
in  1841,  on  a  tract  of  450  acres  along  the  beautiful  Nashotah  Lakes,  as  a  mission-house  ii 
Bishop  Kemper's  vast  diocese.  It  has  since  been  a  theological  training-school  for  hundreds 
of  missionaries,  and  is  very  dear  and  precious  to  the  Church  in  the  Northwest.  Sheltor 
Hall  and  the  Chapel  are  handsome  buildings  of  white  stone,  and  Bishop  White  Hall  is  th< 

home  of  the  students.  The  Lutherai 
Theological  Seminary  is  at  Milwau- 
kee ;  the  Reformed-Church  Mission 
House,  at  Franklin  ;  the  Seminary  of 
St.  Francis  de  Sales,  at  St.  Francis. 
The  Wisconsin  Sunday-School  As- 
sembly owns  a  park  of  30  acre's  on 
Momma  Lake,  and  lias  a  tabernacle, 
pavilions  and  similar  structures, 
BELOIT  :  BELOIT  COLLEGE.  where  several  thousand  persons 


APOSTLE   ISLANDS  : 

NATURAL  ARCHES. 


THE  STATE   OF    WISCONSIN.  897 

spend  ten  days  each  summer,  attending  lectures  and  classes.  It  is  a  branch  of  the  great 
Chautauqua  enterprise.  The  La-Crosse  Public  Library,  with  over  10,000  well-chosen  vol- 
umes, occupies  a  handsome  building,  whose  cherry-red  brick  makes  a  contrast  with  the 
surrounding  green  lawns.  This  institution  received  $50,000  from  the  late  Gov.  C.  C. 
Washburn.  The  libraries  of  Nashotah,  Beloit,  Lawrence  University,  and  St.  -Francis  Sem- 
inary con- 
tain more 
than  10,000 
volumes 
each,  while 
the  State 
U  n  iversi  ty 
library  has 
18,000  vol- 
umes The  MADISON,  THE  CAPITAL  OF  WISCONSIN. 

Milwaukee  Public  Library  is  one  of  the  best  managed  in  the  United  States.  There  are 
excellent  city  libraries,  also,  at  Madison,  Green  Bay,  Beaver  Dam,  Ashland,  Tomahawk, 
Superior,  Berlin,  Appleton  and  other  cities. 

Newspapers.  —  The  first  Wisconsin  newspaper  was  the  Green-Bay  Intelligencer,  in  1833, 
eleven  years  after  the  first  Wisconsin  post-office  was  established,  at  the  same  place.  There 
are  now  upwards  of  500  newspapers  in  the  State,  40  dailies,  440  weeklies  and  40  monthlies. 
In  the  German  language  there  are  94,  five  Scandinavian,  and  others  in  Polish,  Bohemian, 
Danish,  Norwegian  and  Hollandish.  Of  this  great  array  of  periodicals,  religion,  education, 
agriculture  and  labor  have  ten  each,  and  temperance  has  17,  while  others  are  devoted  to 
secret  societies,  music,  charity,  sporting,  mining,  and  philately.  In  Milwaukee,  the  oldest 
paper  is  the  Wisconsin,  the  lineal  successor  of  the  third  paper  established  in  the  Territory. 
The  oldest  daily  in  Milwaukee  is  the  Sentinel,  established  in  1844;  but  it  was  very  closely 
followed  in  1847  t>v  the  Evening  Wisconsin,  a  paper  that  has  ably  and  honorably  earned 
the  esteem  of  its  great  constituency  throughout  the  Northwest.  The  initial  number  of  the 
daily  Wisconsin  in  1847  was  William  E.  Cramer's  entry  into  the  State's  journalism;  and 
ever  since,  now  44  years,  he  has  been  constantly  at  its  head.  Since  1854  his  partner  has 
been  A.  J.  Aikens  —  an  uninterrupted  partnership  of  37  consecutive  years.  John  F.  Cramer, 
the  junior  partner,  has  been  in  the  firm  over  25  years.  Their 
primitive  sheet  of  territorial  days  has  developed  into  one  of 
the  strong,  prosperous  and  influential  newspapers  of  the  whole 
Union,  and  the  hand-press  circulation  of  their  little  daily  and 
weekly  (of  less  than  3,000  a  week)  into  a  combined  circulation 
of  over  125,000  a  week.  The  crude  printing-office,  too,  has 
become  one  of  the  largest  and  best  equipped  in  the  Northwest. 
In  the  wonderful  growth  of  this  section  the  Wisconsin  has  been 
a  powerful  aid,  fearlessly  supporting  that  which  it  believed  to 
be  right  and  best.  It  has  never  sold  a  line  of  its  editorials. 
Its  columns  have  been  kept  pure  and  wholesome.  Mr.  Aikens  is 
said  to  be  the  practical  originator  of  the  "patent-inside"  papers; 
for  it  was  he  who  firs.t  introduced  advertising  into  the  sides 

_.  containing  the  general  news,   and  thus  made  it  possible  to 

MILWAUKEE:  EVENING  WISCONSIN.       bring  the  price  of  the  printed  sheets  into  the  needs  of  the 
country  publishers.     The  Wisconsin  is  published  by  Cramer,  Aikens  &  Cramer,  who  also 
are  extensive  periodical,  book  and  commercial  printers.     The  Wisconsin  building  is 
the  fine  structures  of  Milwaukee. 

Churches  —There  are  accommodations  in  Wisconsin  for  over  500,000  persons,  tt 
Methodists  and  Catholics  each  having  about  one  quarter  of  the  sittings,  and  the  Congrega- 


896  KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED  STATES. 

Madison.  It  is  supported  by  a  State  tax 
of  one  eighth  mill  on  the  dollar,  and  has 
an  income  exceeding  $100,000.  The 
University  numbers  54  persons  in  its  fac- 
ulty, and  800  students,  including  70  in  the 
classical  course,  90  in  science,  1 10  in  en- 
gineering, 100  in  law  and  35  in  pharmacy. 
The  Washburn  Observatory,  built  in 
1878-80,  at  a  cost  of  $50,000,  and  given 
MILWAUKEE.  ^o  the  University,  with  a  full  equipment, 

by  Gov.  C.  C.  Washburn,  has  published  many  volumes  of  its  transactions.     Connected  with 
the  University  is  the  State  Experimental  Station,  one  of  the  best  in  the  country. 

Beloit  College,  "the  Yale  of  the  West,"  was  founded  in  the  year  1847  by  tne  Congrega- 
tional and  Presbyterian  ministers  of  the  surrounding  counties,  for  the  thorough  liberal 
Christian  education  of  young  men.  It  has  a  pleasant  campus  of  24  acres,  on  a  plateau 
dotted  with  oak-openings  and  Indian  mounds,  and  sloping  down  to  Rock  River ;  and  eight 
buildings,  including  the  handsome  stone  Memorial  Hall,  containing  the  library  of  14,000 
volumes,  and  commemorating  on  its  tablets  those  who  perished  out  of  the  400  Beloit 
students  who  enlisted  in  the  civil  war.  Beloit  has  been  notable  for  the  great  number  of 
clergymen  among  its  graduates.  It  has  20  instructors  and  100  students,  besides  a  prepar- 
atory academy  of  great  merit,  with  250  pupils.  In  1889  Beloit's 
endowment  and  property  were  increased  by  nearly  $250,000, 
by  a  series  of  noble  efforts  on  the  part  of  its  graduates  and 
friends.  Racine  College  is  a  creation  of  the  Episcopal  Church 
in  Wisconsin,  and  has  a  spacious  quadrangle  of  handsome 
Gothic  buildings  on  a  bluff  over  Lake  Michigan.  It  was  opened 
in  1852;  and  from  1859  to  1879  came  under  the  care  of  the 
Rev.  Dr.  James  DeKoven,  who  gave  it  the  character  of  the 
great  English  public  schools,  with  careful  moral,  spiritual  and 
intellectual  training.  In  1890  the  collegiate  department  was  abandoned  for  lack  of  support. 
There  remain,  however,  115  students  in  the  preparatory  school.  Lawrence  University  was 
founded  in  1847,  by  the  bounty  of  Amos  A.  Lawrence,  of  Boston,  in  the  rugged  wilderness 
where  the  city  of  Appleton  now  stands.  It  belongs  to  the  Methodists,  and  has  70  students. 
Ripon  College  began  its  labors  in  1853,  and  owns  three  stone  halls,  in  a  pleasant  campus  of 
twelve  acres.  It  is  a  Congregational  and  co-educational  school.  Milton  College  dates  from 
1867,  and  pertains  to  the  Seventh-Day  Baptists.  Galesville  University  is  a  small  Presby- 
terian school.  Northwestern  University,  at  Watertown,  is  Lutheran.  Carroll  College,  at 
Waukesha,  was  chartered  in  1852.  Nashotah  House  was  founded  by  the  Episcopal  Church 
in  1841,  on  a  tract  of  450  acres  along  the  beautiful  Nashotah  Lakes,  as  a  mission-house  in 
Bishop  Kemper's  vast  diocese.  It  has  since  been  a  theological  training-school  for  hundreds 
of  missionaries,  and  is  very  dear  and  precious  to  the  Church  in  the  Northwest.  Shelton 
Hall  and  the  Chapel  are  handsome  buildings  of  white  stone,  and  Bishop  White  Hall  is  the 
j  j  -*  -  home  of  the  students.  The  Lutheran 

Theological  Seminary  is  at  Milwau- 
kee;  the  Reformed-Church  Mission 
House,  at  Franklin  ;  the  Seminary  of 
St.  Francis  de  Sales,  at  St.  Francis. 
The  Wisconsin  Sunday-School  As- 
sembly owns  a  park  of  30  acres  on 
Monona  Lake,  and  has  a  tabernacle, 
pavilions  and  similar  structures, 
BELOIT  :  BELOIT  COLLEGE.  where  several  thousand  persons 


APOSTLE  ISLANDS  : 

NATURAL  ARCHES. 


THE  STATE   OF    WISCONSIN. 


897 


spend  ten  days  each  summer,  attending  lectures  and  classes.  It  is  a  branch  of  the  great 
Chautauqua  enterprise.  The  La-Crosse  Public  Library,  with  over  10,000  well-chosen  vol- 
umes, occupies  a  handsome  building,  whose  cherry-red  brick  makes  a  contrast  with  the 
surrounding  green  lawns.  This  institution  received  $50,000  from  the  late  Gov.  C.  C. 
Washburn.  The  libraries  of  Nashotah,  Beloit,  Lawrence  University,  and  St.  -Francis  Sem- 
inary con- 
tain more 
than  10,000 
volumes 
each,  while 
the  State 
Un  iversi  ty 
library  has 
18,000  vol- 
umes The  MADISON,  THE  CAPITAL  OF  WISCONSIN. 

Milwaukee  Public  Library  is  one  of  the  best  managed  in  the  United  States.  There  are 
excellent  city  libraries,  also,  at  Madison,  Green  Bay,  Beaver  Dam,  Ashland,  Tomahawk, 
Superior,  Berlin,  Appleton  and  other  cities. 

Newspapers.  —  The  first  Wisconsin  newspaper  was  the  Green-Bay  Intelligencer,  in  1833, 
eleven  years  after  the  first  Wisconsin  post-office  was  established,  at  the  same  place.  There 
are  now  upwards  of  500  newspapers  in  the  State,  40  dailies,  440  weeklies  and  40  monthlies. 
In  the  German  language  there  are  94,  five  Scandinavian,  and  others  in  Polish,  Bohemian, 
Danish,  Norwegian  and  Hollandish.  Of  this  great  array  of  periodicals,  religion,  education, 
agriculture  and  labor  have  ten  each,  and  temperance  has  17,  while  others  are  devoted  to 
secret  societies,  music,  charity,  sporting,  mining,  and  philately.  In  Milwaukee,  the  oldest 
paper  is  the  Wisconsin,  the  lineal  successor  of  the  third  paper  established  in  the  Territory. 
The  oldest  daily  in  Milwaukee  is  the  Sentinel,  established  in  1844;  but  it  was  very  closely 
followed  in  1847  by  tne  Evening  Wisconsin,  a  paper  that  has  ably  and  honorably  earned 
the  esteem  of  its  great  constituency  throughout  the  Northwest.  The  initial  number  of  the 
daily  Wisconsin  in  1847  was  William  E.  Cramer's  entry  into  the  State's  journalism;  and 
ever  since,  now  44  years,  he  has  been  constantly  at  its  head.  Since  1854  his  partner  has 
been  A.  J.  Aikens  —  an  uninterrupted  partnership  of  37  consecutive  years.  John  F.  Cramer, 
the  junior  partner,  has  been  in  the  firm  over  25  years.  Their 
primitive  sheet  of  territorial  days  has  developed  into  one  of 
the  strong,  prosperous  and  influential  newspapers  of  the  whole 
Union,  and  the  hand-press  circulation  of  their  little  daily  and 
weekly  (of  less  than  3,000  a  week)  into  a  combined  circulation 
of  over  125,000  a  week.  The  crude  printing-office,  too,  has 
become  one  of  the  largest  and  best  equipped  in  the  Northwest. 
In  the  wonderful  growth  of  this  section  the  Wisconsin  has  been 
a  powerful  aid,  fearlessly  supporting  that  which  it  believed  to 
be  right  and  best.  It  has  never  sold  a  line  of  its  editorials. 
Its  columns  have  been  kept  pure  and  wholesome.  Mr.  Aikens  is 
said  to  be  the  practical  originator  of  the  "patent-inside"  papers; 
for  it  was  he  who  firs.t  introduced  advertising  into  the  sides 
containing  the  general  news,  and  thus  made  it  possible  to 
bring  the  price  of  the  printed  sheets  into  the  needs  of  the 
country  publishers.  The  Wisconsin  is  published  by  Cramer,  Aikens  &  Cramer,  who  also 
are  extensive  periodical,  book  and  commercial  printers.  The  Wisconsin  building  is 
the  fine  structures  of  Milwaukee. 

Churches  —There  are  accommodations  in  Wisconsin  for  over  500,000  persons,  th 
Methodists  and  Catholics  each  having  about  one  quarter  of  the  sittings,  and  the  Congrega- 


MILWAUKEE:  EVENING  WISCONSIN. 


ASHLAND,   ON    CHEQUAMEGON    BAY. 


898  A'nVG'S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE    UN f TED   STATES. 

tionalists,  Baptists  and  Lutherans  each  one  tenth.  The  Episcopalians  divide  the  State  into 
the  dioceses  of  Milwaukee  and  Fond  du  Lac,  with  a  handsome  little  cathedral  at  the  latter 
place,  and  the  noble  Norman  Church  of  St.  Paul  at  Milwaukee. 

Chief  Cities.—  Milwau- 
kee, with  its  noble  public 
buildings  and  busy  factories, 
is  one  of  the  greatest  cities 
of  the  Northwest,  on  a  site 
diversified  by  graceful  hills, 
far-reaching  suburbs  melt- 
ing into  rural  gardens  and 
prairie  farms,  and  a  gener- 
ous profusion  of  domes  and 
spires.  The  Government  has  formed  a  spacious  outer  harbor,  by  building  breakwaters,  and 
the  Milwaukee  River  admits  the  largest  vessels  to  the  heart  of  the  city  and  the  doors  of  the 
warehouses.  Steamships  have  been  dispatched  from  this  port  to  England,  without  break- 
ing bulk.  The  immense  flour-mills  and  grain-elevators  (with  a  capacity  of  6,000,000  bushels) 
furnish  lading  for  large  commercial  fleets.  Fully  half  the  population  is  of  German  origin, 
which  may  partly  account  for  the  high  local  development  of  art  and  music,  and  for  the 
enormous  breweries.  Hence  also  comes  the  singular  diversity  of  the  local  architecture, 
and  the  frequency  of  signs  in  a  foreign  language.  Milwaukee  has  risen  from  a  village  of 
2,ooo  inhabitants  in  1840  to  be  one  of  the  foremost  grain-ports  of  the  world,  with  large 
manufacturing  interests  also. 

One  of  the  finest  hotels  in  the  Northwest  is  the  Plankinton  House,  at  Milwaukee,  which 
is  favorably  known  to  all  travelers  in  this  country  and  in  Europe.  The  Plankinton  House 
in  name  has  been  running  about  20  years,  but  the 
present  building  is  by  no  means  of  that  age.  Additions 
were  made  to  the  first  building  from  time  to  time,  and 
the  hotel  as  it  now  stands  represents  a  cost  of  over 
$1,000,000.  Its  street  frontage  is  830  feet,  or  about 
one  seventh  of  a  mile.  The  house  now  has  600  rooms, 
and  occupies  more  than  half  a  block,  according  to  the 
Western  rule,  that  there  are  five  blocks  to  a  mile. 
The  building  is  five  stories  high,  and  of  sandstone. 
The  furnishing  of  the  hotel  is  on  a  very  elaborate  plan.  MILWAUKEE  :  THE  PLANKINTON  HOUSE. 
In  the  15  best  front  rooms  there  are  mahogany  chamber  sets.  The  dining-room  and  parlors 
are  however  its  crowning  glory.  The  furniture  is  solid  rose-wood,  covered  with  expensive  silk 
tapestry.  Around  the  walls  of  the  dining-rooms  are  nine  of  the  largest  mirrors  to  be  found 
in  the  West.  The  square  ones  are  nine  by  twelve  feet.  The  office  is  handsomely  furnished. 
The  mantel  here  is  twelve  feet  wide  and  16  feet  high.  The  pilasters  of  this  mantel  repre- 
sent America,  Europe,  Asia  and  Africa.  The  house  was  owned  by  the  late  John  Plankin- 
ton, one  of  the  wealthiest  men  of  the  Northwest.  It  was  fortunate  for  the  city  of  Milwaukee 


to  have  had  so  good 
visitor  who  sees 
sights,  and  abund- 


MILWAUKEE  :    C.  ,  M.   &  ST. -PAUL  R.  R.   DEPO 


a  hotel  as  the  Plankinton  has  been  for  so  many  years,  for  the 
this  beautiful  city  goes  away  well  pleased  with  all  the  many 
antly  satisfied  with  his  hotel  accommodations. 

Madison,  the  capital  of  Wisconsin,  has  a  situa- 
tion of  unusual  beauty,  on  the  narrow  and  hilly  strip 
between  Lakes  Mendota  (nine  by  six  miles)  and 
Monona  (five  by  two  miles),  clear  and  crystalline 
sheets,  fed  by  vast  springs  and  bordered  by  white 
gravelly  shores.  In  the  vicinity  are  the  Lakes 
Waubesa,  Kegonsa  and  Wingra,  somewhat  smaller 


THE  STATE   OF    WISCONSIN.  899 

than  the  others.  The  Capitol,  University,  and  other  public  buildings  are  .placed  on  com- 
manding hills,  and  overlook  this  lovely  lake-country  for  leagues.  Pure'  springs,  beautiful 
drives,  exciting  bass-fishing,  boating  of  all  kinds,  and  Chautauqua  assemblies  attract  many 
summer-visitors  and  permanent  residents  with  wealth  and  leisure  to  this  charming  little  city, 
with  its  libraries,  churches  and  other  metropolitan  luxuries.  Longfellow  depicted  this 
locality,  and  its 

'  Fair  lakes,  serene  and  full  of  light, 
Fair  town  arrayed  in  robes  of  white." 

La  Crosse  occupies  a  pleasant  site  on  the  Mississippi,  whose  majestic  flood  here  sweeps 
around  several  green  islands;  and  its  saw-mills  and  factories  employ  8,000  persons.  On 
this  site  the  Indians  used  to  play  their  favorite  game  of  la  crosse.  Eau  Claire  and  Chippewa. 
Falls  are  also  well-known  for  their  lumber.  Racine  has  a  good  harbor,  with  large  ship- 
ments of  grain  and  produce,  and  stands  on  a  plateau  projecting  into  Lake  Michigan,  at  the 
mouth  of  Root  River.  Kenosha's  harbor  is  made  by  piers  projecting  into  the  lake,  and 
receives  a  lucrative  commerce.  Janesville,  Beloit  and  Watertown  are  the  chief  cities  along 
Rock  River.  Sheboygan  and  Manitowoc  are  lake-ports  farther  north.  Another  group  of 
cities,  in  the  east,  includes  Fond  du  Lac,  nestling  among  the  hills  around  Lake  Winnebago, 
amid  rich  prairies,  and  with  a  great  lumber-trade ;  Oshkosh,  a  busy  city  of  saw-mills  and 
factories,  on  the  same  bright  lake  ;  Menasha,  in  the  pleasant  scenery  at  the  foot  of  Winne- 
bago ;  and  Neenah  and  Appleton,  with  their  paper-mills  and  valuable  water-powers. 

Prairie  du  Chien  received  its  name  from  an  Indian  chief,  The  Dog  (Chien},  whose  tribe 
formerly  dwelt  there.  It  was  captured  by  Col.  McKay's  British  and  Indian  expedition, 
in  1814,  and  held  for  nearly  a  year.  The  city  occupies  a  pleasant  prairie  on  the  Missis- 
sippi shore,  just  above  the  inflowing  of  the  Wisconsin.  Ashland  and  Bayfield  are  twin 
Lake-Superior  ports  on  Chequamegon  Bay,  a  landlocked  harbor  30  miles  in  area,  with  deep 
water  and  clear  channels,  and  large  docks  for  the  shipment  of  lumber  and  ores.  This 
locality,  near  the  beautiful  Apostle  Islands,  has  become  known  as  a  summer-resort.  West 
Superior  had  about  400  inhabitants  in  1885,  and  in  three  years  following  grew  twentyfold, 
with  immense  coal-docks,  elevators,  iron-pipe  and  steel  works,  the  distributing  docks  and 
tanks  of  the  Standard  Oil  Company  for  I  the  Northwest,  and  the  largest  coal-dock 

in  the  world  (with  a  capacity  of  1,000,-  A  i  ooo  tons).  At  this  point  seven  rail- 
ways converge  upon  a  deep  '.  [\  ^^  --..  harbor,  at  the  extreme 

The  First  Railway  '^BifKrt*  'n  Wisconsin  was  be- 
gun in  1850  by  the  Mil-  .^fHll  I ^^^JSbjdbfr- ,  waukee  and  Mississippi 
line,  which  laid  down  ten  "•yfff^BI  ^^^JiwiilfMBiSffl^1  fl  ^'  miles  °f  track  between 
Milwaukee  and  Elm  Grove.  ^H^^^^^^S^--  -^"^1  This  line  reached  Janes- 
ville in  18^2.  The  State  MILWAUKEE:  now  has  more  than 

.,  r  1-1  CHICAGO    &    NORTHWESTERN    R.     ft.     DEPOT.  f   ^ 

5,000  miles  of  tracks,  built  at  a  cost  of  $210,000,- 

ooo,  and  showing  net  yearly  earnings  of  above  $8,000,000.  The  Chicago,  Milwaukee  & 
St. -Paul  lines  cover  the  southern  part  of  Wisconsin  with  a  network  of  1,300  miles  of  rails, 
beginning  at  Chicago,  and  touching  Beloit,  Madison,  Milwaukee,  Portage  City,  Prairie  du 
Chien,  Oshkosh  and  many  other  localities,  and  crossing  far  west  into  the  Dakotas.  The  Mil- 
waukee &  Northern  runs  north  to  Green  Bay  and  the  iron  country  of  Michigan.  The  Chicago 
&  Northwestern  has  950  miles  in  Wisconsin,  leading  from  Chicago  to  Fort  Howard  and  Mil- 
waukee, Fond  du  Lac,  Kenosha,  Rockford,  Winona,  Janesville  and  La  Crosse.  The  Chicago, 
St.  -Paul,  Minneapolis  &  Omaha  owns  and  leases  nearly  600  miles,  reaching  from  Chicago  to 
Beloit,  Milwaukee,  Madison,  Bayfield,  Ashland,  Superior,  Eau  Claire  and  St.  Paul.  This 
line  was  started  in  1868,  from  Warren's  Mills  to  Black-River  Falls.  The  Chicago,  Burling- 
ton &  Northern  follows  up  the  Mississippi  Valley  for  224  miles,  by  La  Crosse,  Winona  and 
Lake  Pepin.  The  Wisconsin  Central  controls  450  miles  of  track  in  Wisconsin.  It  begins  at 
Chicago  and  reaches  Milwaukee  and  Oshkosh,  and  then  runs  north  west  to  Bessemer,  Ashland 


900 


XING'* S  HANDBOOK   OF    THE    UNITED   STATES. 


and  Superior,  on  Lake  Superior.  The  Milwaukee,  Lake-Shore  &  Western  has  over  600 
miles  of  track,  running  north  from  Milwaukee  to  Ashland.  The  Minneapolis,  St. -Paul  & 
Sault-Ste. -Marie  line  cuts  straight  across  the  northern  wilderness  from  the  St. -Croix  Valley 

to  the  Menomonee,  with  267  miles  of  track. 

The  Finances  of  Wisconsin  are  in  a  peculiarly  for- 
tunate condition.  The  State  debt,  largely  incurred  on 
account  of  the  civil  war,  has  all  been  paid,  and  there  is  a 
surplus  of  over  $3,000,000  in  the  treasury.  The  oldest 
bank  in  the  West,  and  largest  bank  in  Wisconsin,  is  the 
Wisconsin  Marine  &  Fire  Insurance  Company  Bank  of 
Milwaukee,  established  in  1839,  over  50  years  ago.  The 
capital  stock  is  $500,000,  being  all  that  the  Constitution 
of  the  State  of  Wisconsin  allows,  but  by  law  all  its  stock- 
holders, representing  millions  of  dollars,  are  individually 
and  collectively  liable  for  all  obligations  of  the  bank.  At 
the  lime  their  report  was  made  to  the  State  treasurer,  July 
WSCONSIN  .  7,  1890,  it  showed  they  had  out  $4,620,159  in  loans 

MARINE  &  FIRE  INSURANCE  COMPANY  BANK,  and  discounts ;  bonds  and  stocks  of  $775,527;  specie  to 
the  amount  of  $43,951;  clearing-house  checks,  $49,752;  currency,  $259,695;  due  from 
banks,  $1,002,749  ;  and  these  with  $9,252  in  over  drafts  made  the  total  amount  of  the 
bank's  resources  $6,761,086.  This  bank  was  popularly  known  for  nearly  half  a  century  as 
"Alexander  Mitchell's  bank,"  the  railroad  magnate  and  financier  of  his  time  being  the 
head  of  this  institution.  His  son,  John  L.  Mitchell,  succeeded  him  as  president,  while  two 
of  his  old  associates,  David  Ferguson  and  John  Johnston,  remain  active  respectively  as  vice- 
president  and  cashier,  the  one  having  been  51  years  and  the  other  35  years  in  the  institu- 
tion. The  bank  is  in  the  Mitchell  Building,  alongside  the  Milwaukee  Chamber  of  Commerce. 
When  this  bank  was  founded  Milwaukee  had  a  population  of  1,500,  and  Wisconsin  had 
30,000.  A  semi- weekly  stage  afforded  the  only  public  communication  between  Milwaukee 
and  the  Mississippi  Valley,  where  now  40  railway  trains  daily  fly  across  the  State. 

Manufactures  in  Wisconsin  are  more  than  10,000  in  number,  with  a  yearly  product 
of  over  $150,000,000.  As  the  drift  of  emigration  pressed  westward,  the  hemlock  forests  of 
the  Northwest  attracted  tanneries  to  this  section  of  the  country.  The  abundance  of  hides  and 
bark  were  here  at  hand,  and  Western  enterprise  soon  took  advantage  of  these  favorable 
circumstances.  Milwaukee,  on  account  of  its  favorable  natural  situation,  soon  became  the 
western  manufacturing  center  for  leather.  Small  tanneries  rapidly  developed  into  large  in- 
stitutions. The  earliest  of  these  tanneries  was  started  by  the  late  Guido  Pfister  and  Fred- 
erick Vogel,  Sr.  Beginning  in  a  modest  way,  the  labor  of  these  men  has  developed  into 
the  largest  upper-leather  tannery,  not  only  in  this  section  but  in  the  whole  country.  The 
partnership  of  Pfister  &  Vogel  was  changed  in  1872  into  a  stock  company,  known  as  the 
Pfister  &  Vogel  Leather  Company,  with  a  capital  stock  of  $200,000,  which  was  subse- 
quently increased  to  $400,000,  and  a  surplus  of  $700,000.  In  addition  to  their  upper- 
leather  tanneries,  they  are  now  operating  large 
sole-leather  and  sheepskin  tanneries,  the  four 
tanneries  covering  about  1 6  acres  of  ground,  and 
the  total  investment  being  over  $2,000,000. 
The  total  production  during  the  past  year  was 
450,000  sides  of  upper  and  sole  leather,  and  350,- 
ooo  sheep,  goat,  calf  and  kipskins.  To  tan  this 
amount  18,000  cords  of  hemlock  bark  were  used. 
The  company  manufactures  a  greater  variety  of 

leather  than  any  other  firm  in  the  world,  making  specialties  of  the  following :  Union  and 
hemlock  sole,  harness,  line  and  strap  leather,  colored  and  russet  skirtings,  collar  leathers, 


THE  STATE   OF   WISCONSIN.  QOI 

satin  finish  grain,  English  grain,  oil  and  boot  grain,  wax,  calfskin  ami  union  upper   flesh 
grain  and  flexible  splits,  glove-leather  of  all  kinds  in  deer,  goat  and   sheepskin,    colored 
leathers,  dull  and  glazed  dongola  kid,  cordovan  golashes,  and  horsehide.     They  have  an 
agency  at  Chicago  and  Boston.     Half  of  their  product  is  disposed  of  by  the  Boston  office 
in  the  greatest  leather  market  of  the  world. 

Milwaukee  possesses  the  Pabst  brewery,  unsurpassed  by  any  in  the  world.  The  nucleus  of 
this  immense  establishment  was  the  old  Empire  Brewery,  started  by  Jacob  Best  in  1842  He 
was  assisted  by  his  four  sons,  and  for  the  first  few  years  all  the  work  was  done  by  these  four 
men.  In  1860,  however,  his  son  Phillip  took  the  management.  Hitherto  the  output  had 
been  for  local  consumption,  and  amounted  to  only  about  3,000  barrels  a  year.  In  1863  the 

output  had  risen  to  3,667  barrels  a 
year,  and  when  Mr.  Best  admitted 
Capt.  Fred  Pabst,  his  son-in-law,  the 
annual  product  was  4,895  barrels. 
In  1865  Mr.  Best  retired,  but  the 
business  was  continued  under  the 
style  of  Phillip  Best  &  Co.  By  this 
time  the  beer  had  become  known, 

MILWAUKEE  :     PABST    BREWING    COMPANY.  and     the   output  was     UpWardS  of  II,- 

ooo  barrels  a  year.  In  March,  1873,  the  company  was  incorporated,  under  the  style  of  the 
Phillip  Best  Brewing  Company,  with  a  capital  of  $300,000.  The  next  year  this  was  in- 
creased to  $2,000,000.  All  this  time  the  company  was  increasing  its  output,  and  of  necessity 
increasing  the  plant.  In  1886  the  output  was  440,443  barrels.  In  March,  1889,  the  cor- 
porate name  of  the  Phillip  Best  Brewing  Company  was  changed  to  that  of  the  Pabst  Brew- 
ing Company,  and  the  capital  was  increased  to  $4,000,000.  The  annual  output  amounted 
then  to  585,300  barrels.  The  bottling  house  of  this  company  is  the  only  one  in  the  country 
where  the  beer  is  drawn  through  underground  pipes,  thus  preventing  the  escape  of  carbonic 
acid.  The  present  capacity  is  1,000,000  barrels  a  year.  The  actual  sales  for  the  year  1890 
amounted  to  700, 233  barrels.  The  plant  occupies  a  floor-space  of  34^  acres.  The  great 
ice-machines  produce  an  equivalent  to  146,000  tons  of  ice  annually.  The  hands  employed 
number  1,000 ;  and  the  annual  pay-roll  amounts  to  $400,000.  The  company  was  awarded  the 
gold  medal  at  the  Paris  Exposition  in  1878.  The  fame  of  the  Pabst  brewery  is  world- wide. 

If  the  old-time  farmers,  who  stood  before 
the  old  open  cylinder  and  watched  the  slow 
tread  of  a  horse  power,  could  see  the  present 
methods  of  threshing  by  steam-power,  and  caring 
for  the  grain,  they  would  deny  the  existence  of 
scientific  principles  in  the  old  methods.  Steam 
seems  to  have  taken  the  precedence  in  farming, 
as  well  as  in  all  other  branches  of  industry.  RACINE  :  j.  i.  CASE  THRESHING  MACHINE  co. 

The  J.  I.  Case  Threshing  Machine  Company  of  Racine  have  been  manufacturing  threshing 
machines  since  1842;  and,  starting  with  a  small  tread-power  separator,  they  have  gradually 
increased  their  machines  to  steam-power  outfits  of  3,000  bushels  a  day  capacity.  Their 
immense  establishment  is  capable  of  turning  out  twelve  complete  separators,  two  engines, 
15  horse-powers  and  four  saw-mills  a  day,  besides  the  enormous  and  nearly  unlimited  stock 
of  repairs  and  attachments  which  is  the  yearly  demand  from  this  mammoth  factory.  The 
present  company  succeeded  the  firm  of  J.  I.  Case  &  Co.,  in  1880,  and  was  incorporated  in 
that  year,  with  a  capital  of  $1,000,000  and  a  surplus  much  larger.  The  shops  and  ware- 
houses cover  40  acres  and  employ  1,000  men,  with  a  yearly  pay-roll  of  $600,000.  There 
are  10,000  tons  of  iron,  5,000,000  feet  of  lumber  and  $75,000  worth  of  belting  consumed 
in  the  annual  business  of  the  company.  Their  goods  received  the  medals  at  Philadelphia 
in  1876,  at  Paris,  1887,  and  of  all  the  States  in  the  country.  They  have  about  900 


9O2 


MILWAUKEE :     FULLER    WARREN    COMPANY. 


A'StfG'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE   UNITED   STATES. 

agencies  ;  and  are  the  largest  makers  of  threshing  ma- 
chines in  the  world.  It  is  worth  noting  that  Mr.  Case 
(who  died  in  December,  1891,)  was  one  of  the  noted 
patrons  of  the  turf,  and  the  horse  bearing  his  initials, 
Jay  Eye  See,  has  the  fastest  gelding  trotting  record. 
At  Milwaukee  are  the  extensive  stove-works  of 
the  Fuller  Warren  Company,  erected  in  1891  with 
all  the  advantages  of  modern  improvements,  so  that 
it  is  regarded  as  a  model  establishment  in  this  in- 
dustry. The  plant  comprises  a  notable  group  of  brick 
structures,  the  main  front,  500  feet  long,  being  four  stories  high,  while  the  foundries  are 
exceptional  for  length,  height,  light  and  arrangement.  The  products  include  the  long  list  of 
world-renowned  stoves,  furnaces  and  ranges  made  by  the  Fuller  &  Warren  Company  of  Troy 
(N.  Y. ),  the  two  corporations  being  closely  allied  and  under  practically  the  same  management. 
The  Duluth  Elevator  Company's  series  of  three  elevators,  forming  the  largest  system 
of  connected  elevators  in  the  world,  are  at  West  Superior.  They  have  a  capacity  of 
5, poo,  ooo  bushels,  and  are  closely  affiliated  with 
the  Peavey  system  of  grain-elevators,  noticed  in 
the  Minnesota  chapter.  They  are  among  the 
largest,  best  equipped  and  most  complete  in  the 
world.  There  arc  three  buildings,  connected 
by  fire-proof  galleries,  and  provided  with  fire- 
hydrants  and  automatic  sprinklers,  incandescent 
electric  lights,  and  solid  timber  decks.  There 
are  track  facilities  for  2,000  cars,  and  unloading 
facilities  for  40  cars  an  hour.  The  highest  build- 
ing is  141  feet  in  altitude. 

The  development  of  the  forlorn  little  backwoods  hamlet  of  Superior  into  a  great  com- 
mercial port  began  in  1854,  under  the  direction  of  a  land  company,  which  included  among 
its  members  Senator  R.  J.  Walker,  of  Mississippi,  Senator  R.  M.  T.  Hunter,  of  Virginia, 
Senator  S.  A.  Douglas,  of  Illinois,  and  other  prominent  men.  But  the  panic  of  1857  and 
the  war  of  1861-5  shattered  the  hopes  of  the  village,  which  remained  in  a  condition  of  sus- 
pended animation  until  about  1885,  since  which  the  locality  has  gone  forward  rapidly,  with 
large  manufacturing  enterprises,  railway  terminals,  elevators  and  steamship  lines.  Over  1 , 200 
vessels  arrive  at  and  depart  from  the  port  yearly,  with  vast  freights  of  coal,  grain  and  Hour. 
At  this  point  the  Wisconsin  and  Minnesota  line  runs  along  St.  -Louis  Bay,  with  Duluth  on 
the  north  side  and  Superior  on  the  south.  Here  is  the  extreme  western  end  of  navigation 
on  the  great  inland  seas  of  America,  where  the  railways  from  the  grain-lands  meet  the 
steamships  from  the  coal  ports.  Ignatius  Donnelly  prophesies  that  a  century  hence  these 
cities  will  have  10,000,000  inhabitants. 

"  The  voyageurs  were  a  wonderful  body  of  men.  Mostly  French-Indians  (half-breeds), 
swarthy,  sunburnt,  hardy  and  daring,  they  were  the  heroes  of  the  paddle,  and  for  long  years 
their  jocular  songs  were  heard  and  their  fleets  of  canoes  were  seen  along  the  rugged  shores 
of  the  great  lake.  They  were  great  singers,  and  sang  songs  to  the  music  of  the  paddle.  At 
a  later  date,  they  annually  performed  the  almost  incredible  feat  of  crossing  and  re-crossing 
the  continent  in  birch-bark  canoes  in  a  single  season.  They  would  start  in  a  canoe  from 
the  Pacific  Ocean,  in  April,  and  threading  rivers  and  lakes,  shooting  rapids  and  portaging 
over  mountains,  without  halt  in  fair  weather  or  foul,  sleeping  but  four  hours  in  the  24, 
would  reach  Fort  William,  on  Lake  Superior,  by  the  1st  of  July,  with  the  regularity  of  a 
steamboat,  and  returning  across  the  continent  with  equal  precision,  arrive  at  Fort  George, 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  River,  by  the  2Oth  of  October.  They  were  indeed  a  strangely 
interesting  race,  jocular,  and  full  of  song  and  stories  of  wild  adventure." 


WAUKESHA. 


HISTORY. 


Settled  at 

Settled  in 

Founded  by    .... 
Admitted  to  the  U.  S., 
Population  in  1070, 
In  1880, 

White,      .     .     . 

Colored,   .     .     . 

American-born, 


Part  of  Wyoming,  west  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  was 
included  in  the  Oregon 
Country,  and  belonged  to 
Oregon,  Utah,  Washington 
and  Idaho.  The  lower  Green- 
River  country,  about  Fort 
Bridger,  pertained  to  Mex- 
ico, and  became  American 


Males, 

Females,  .    .    .    . 

In  1890  (U.  S.  Censu 

Voting  Population,     . 

State  Debt.    .     .     .     . 


soil  after  the  Treaty  of  1848. 


243 

13 

240 

ooi 

$898,494 
391 

$187,798 
124,433 


Most  of  Wyoming  was  included  in  the  Province  of  Louisiana, 
purchased  from  France  in  1803,  and  belonged  to  the  District 
of  Louisiana  after  1804,  the  Territory  of  Louisiana  after 
1805,  the  Territory  of  Missouri  after  1812,  the  Indian 
Country  after  1834,  Nebraska  after  1854,  Dakota  after 
1 86 1,  Idaho  after  1863,  and  Dakota  again  after  1864.  The 
Territory  of  Wyoming  was  formed  from  parts  of  Dakota 
Idaho  and  Utah,  in  1 868,  and  it  therefore  ranks  as  ojie  of 
the  youngest  of  the  American  commonwealths. 

The  first  white  visitors  were  the  Canadian  explorers 
under  Sieur  de  la  Verendrye,  who,  in  1 743^4>  ascended  the 
gorges  of  Wind  River.  A  pair  of  Illinois  trappers,  and 
Colter,  one  of  Lewis  and  Clark's  men,  spent  parts  of  1804-7 
in  the  Park  region,  followed  by  the  heroic  hunters  of  the 
Missouri  Fur  Company,  who  were  obliged  to  fight  the 
Indians  throughout  all  these  lonely  glens.  The  first 
American  to  explore  central  Wyoming  was  the  gallant 
Virginian,  Gen.  Wm.  II.  Ashley,  who  in  1824  led  300 
men  through  the  Sweetwater  country  and  the  South  Pass. 
Eight  years  later,  Capt.  Bonneville,  U.  S.  A.,  and  no 
trappers  traversed  the  South  Pass,  and  erected  a  fortified 
camp  on  Green  River.  Fort  Laramie  was  built  in  1834, 
by  Sublette,  and  rebuilt  two  years  later  by  the  American 
Fur  Company,  who  sold  it  to  the  Government  in  1849.  In 
1842  the  famous  trapper,  James  Bridger,  erected  the  log  block-house  of  Fort  Bridger, 
•near  Green  River  ;  but  in  i853  it  passed  into  the  hands  of  the  Mormons,  who  were  un- 
willing to  suffer  a  Gentile  stronghold  so  near  their  domains.  The  first  migration  to  the 


Area  (square  i 

U.-S.  Representatives, 

Militia  (Disciplined), 

Counties, 

Post -offices.  .... 
Railroads  (miles),  .  . 
Manufactures  (yearly), 

Operatives,      .     .     . 

Yearly  Wages,    .     . 
Farm  Land  (in  acres), 

Farm- Land  Values, 

Farm  Products  (yearly)    .  $372,391 
Public  Schools,  Average 

Daily  Attendance,  .     .     .         3,75° 

Newspapers, 35 

Latitude, 41°  to  45°  N. 

Longitude,  .  .  .  104°  to  III*  W. 
Temperature,  .  .  .  —54°  to  i°i° 
Mean  Temperature  (Fort 

Bridger), 41" 


TEN  CHIEF  PLACES  AND  THEIR  POPU- 
LATIONS.    (Census  of  1890  ) 


Cheyenne,    . 
Laramie, 
Rock  Springs, 
Rawlins,  .     . 
Evanston,     . 
New  Castle, 
Carbon,    .    . 
Buffalo, 


Green-River  City, 
Casper,     .     .    .     . 


11,690 
6,388 
3,4o6 
2,235 
i,995 
I.7I5 
1,140 
1,087 
723 
544 


904  KING^S  HANDBOOK'  OF  THE   UNITED   STATES. 

Pacific  passed  across  Wyoming  in  1 834  ;  and  thereafter 
increasing  companies  of  immigrants  traversed  the  region, 
their  heavy  Pennsylvania  wagons  rolling  through  the 
South  Pass,  and  on  to  the  Pacific  coast.  Strange  groups 
followed  these  perilous  trails  —  Father  De  Smet  and 
his  Jesuit  brethren  ;  the  New-England  missionaries, 
bound  for  Oregon  ;  Fremont  and  his  men,  the  first  troops 
to  enter  Wyoming ;  the  regiment  of  mounted  riflemen, 
riding  to  the  Columbia  Valley  ;  division  after  division 
of  Mormon  enthusiasts,  on  their  way  to  Deseret ;  Gen. 

THE   THREE    TETONS.  T    ,  ,        A  r    TT,     -,        .  o  .r        r^    ^•c          •  i 

Johnston  s  Army  01   Utah,  in  1057  ;  the  California  and 

Nevada  Union  volunteers,  guarding  the  mails  and  emigrant-trains  back  and  forth,  from  1862 
to  1866  ;  and  thousands  of  Argonauts,  gold-hunters  and  other  brave  adventurers,  facing  the 
perils  of  the  wilderness  and  its  savage  clans.  The  first  agricultural  settlers  were  several 
score  of  Mormons,  sent  by  their  church  to  occupy  the  Green-River  Valley,  in  1853. 

The  Indians  waged  almost  continuous  warfare  against  the  immigrants,  and  killed  them 
by  hundreds,  and  even  attacked  the  forts,  and  burned  Julesburg.  The  Phil-Kearney 
massacre  occurred  in  1866,  when  Red  Cloud  marshalled  his  Indian  warriors  to  prevent  the 
Government  from  building  a  road  from  the  Platte  to  the  Yellowstone.  Col.  Fetterman 
made  a  sortie  from  the  beleaguered  Fort  Phil  Kearney,  and  his  entire  command  was  anni- 
hilated by  the  savages.  The  in  soldiers  slain  on  that  dread  day  have  been  buried  at  the 
National  Cemetery  on  Custer's  battlefield. 

When  the  Territory  came  into  existence  it  possessed  but  3,000  white  inhabitants,  most 
of  whom  had  followed  the  construction  of  the  Union  Pacific  Railroad.  As  late  as  1875 
the  greater  part  of  the  domain  belonged  to  the  Sioux,  Crows,  Arrapahoes,  and  Shoshones, 
who  waged  an  intermittent  war  against  the 
miners  and  settlers,  and  were  finally  chastised 
into  submission  by  Gen.  Crook,  in  1876-7. 
The  Sioux  were  removed  to  Dakota,  the  Crows 
to  Montana,  the  Utes  to  Colorado,  and  the 
1,100  Shoshones  and  900  Arrapahoes  to  a 
reservation  on  the  Wind  River,  where  they 
still  remain. 

The  Name  of  Wyoming  comes  from  an 
Indian  word,  Maughwaitwame,  meaning  Broad 

Plains,  and  was  first  applied  to  a  famous  valley  GREEN  RIVER  AND 

in  Pennsylvania.  The  Commonwealth  has  been  called  THE  EQUALITY  STATE,  because  ever 
since  its  organization  men  and  women  have  been  accorded  equal  rights  to  vote,  and  the 
people  have  ratified  the  same  principle  in  the  State  Constitution.  This  was  the  first  com- 
munity in  the  world  to  inaugurate  woman  suffrage,  and  twenty  years  of  trial  have  shown 
that  the  best  class  of  women  vote,  without  detriment  to  themselves,  and  with  increasing 
benefit  to  the  State.  They  give  their  ballots  to  the  best  and  truest  men,  regardless  of 
politics,  and  for  this  reason  both  parties  are  compelled  to  nominate  worthy  candidates. 

The  Governors  of  Wyoming  have  been:  John  A.  Campbell,  1869-75;  John  M. 
Tliayer,  1875-8;  John  W.  Hoyt,  1878-82;  Wm.  Hale,  1882-5;  Francis  E.  *  Warren, 
1885-6;  Thos.  Moonlight,  1886-9;  Francis  E.  Warren,  1889-90;  and  Amos  W.  Barber 
(acting),  1891. 

The  Arms  of  Wyoming  bear  a  Norman  shield,  with  a  railway  train  rushing  through 
the  sunlit  mountains,  below  which,  in  the  lower  quarterings  of  the  shield,  are  a  plough, 
pick,  shovel  and  shepherd's  crook  on  one  side,  and  on  the  other  a  mailed  hand  .holding  a 
drawn  sword.  The  motto  is,  CEDANT  ARMA  TOG&,  meaning,  "Let  arms  yield  to  the 
gown,"  or,  "Let  military  authority  give  way  to  the  civil  power." 


THE  STATE   OF    WYOMING.  9O5 

Geography.  —  Wyoming  is  as  large  as  all  New  England  and  Indiana  combined.  Its 
elevation  varies  from  3,400  to  14,000  feet,  with  an  average  of  6,000.  The  bordering  com- 
monwealths are  South  Dakota,  Nebraska,  Colorado,  Utah,  Idaho,  and  Montana.  A  large 
part  of  its  area  is  occupied  by  the  mighty  mass  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  whose  snowy 
peaks  rise  high  above  evergreen  forests,  and  are  cut  by  the  rocky  canons  of  many  rivers. 
Among  these  broken  ridges  are  spacious  bare  plateaus,  dotted  here  and  there  with  grouped 
or  isolated  buttes,  flat-topped  and  with  precipitous  sides,  and  strangely  suggesting  the 
architecture  of  Titans.  3,300  square  miles  are  more  than  10,000  feet  above  the  sea.  The 
Continental  Divide,  or  culmination  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  the  northern  prolongation  of 
the  Colorado  Park  Range,  enters  Wyoming  south  of  Rawlins.  Farther  eastward  the  granite- 
crested  Front  Range  of  Colorado  runs  north  into  Wyoming,  breaking  into  the  Laramie  and 
Medicine-Bow  Ranges,  which  are  separated  by  the  Laramie  Valley.  Laramie  Peak  reaches 
11,000  feet,  and  Elk  Mountain,  in  the  Medicine-Bow  group,  reaches  11,511  feet.  The  foot- 
hills and  spurs  of  the  tremendous  Uintah  Range  crowd  along  the  border  west  of  the  Sierra 
Madre,  and  similar  offshoots  of  the  Wahsatch  Range  fill  the  western  frontier. 

About  fifty  miles  north  of  the  Colorado  line,  the  Sierra  Madre  and  the  Medicine-Bow 
Range  subside  into  a  belt  of  flat  table-land  150  miles  long,  from  which  the  Missouri 
waters  flow  on  one  side  and  those  of  the  Colorado  on  the  other.  This  section  of  the  Con- 
tinental Divide  is  only  1,400  feet  above  the  general  level  of  Wyoming,  and  has  received  the 
names  of  the  Great  Divide  Basin  and  the  Red  Desert.  Many  of  the  streams  on  this  broad 
upland  run  into  sinks  and  are  lost,  or  disappear  in  alkali  flats.  Rawlins  stands  on  the 
water-shed  ;  and  100  miles  west  the  Continental  Divide  again  becomes  sharply  defined,  in 
the  range  running  northward  from  Steamboat  Mountain  to  the  South  Pass.  It  is  prolonged 
to  the  northwest  by  the  Wind-River  Mountains,  with  their  austere  snowy  summits,  culmi- 
nating in  Fremont's  Peak,  13,576  feet  high.  Here  the  country  is  all  on  edge,  where  the 
Wind-River  Range  meets  the  lava  plateau  of  Absaroka.  The  remarkable  Teton  Range  is 
crowned  by  Mt.  Hayden  (the  Grand  Teton),  13,691  feet  high,  and  Mt.  Moran.  The  Semi- 
noe,  Sweetwater,  and  other  ranges  rise  from  the  plateau  between  the  Laramie  and  Wind- 
River  Mountains.  Here  the  tremendous  line  of  the  Big- Horn  Mountains  begins,  near  the 
centre  of  Wyoming,  and  runs  northward  into  Montana,  reaching  heights  of  from  8,000  to 
12,000  feet,  and  covering  7,500  square  miles.  A  rolling  plateau  crosses  the  Powder-River 
country  eastward  to  the  Black  Hills,  whose  dark  and  heavily  wooded  heights  culminate  in 
the  peak  of  Inyan  Kara,  6, 700  feet  above  the  sea.  The  Laramie  Plains,  sheltered  by  the 
Laramie  and  Medicine-Bow  Ranges,  cover  2, 000,000- acres,  at  a  height  of  7,000  feet  above 
the  sea.  There  are  areas  of  irrigable  land  in  the  valleys  of  the  Big  Horn,  Tongue,  Powder 
and  Green  rivers.  The  Big-Horn  country  has  for  many  years  been  famous  for  its  game, 
and  attracts  many  parties  of  American  and  foreign  sportsmen.  It  covers  an  immense  area, 
between  the  Big-Horn  and  Wind-River  Ranges,  with  the  Owl-Creek  Mountains  on  the 
south.  As  lately  as  1866  this  region  contained  enormous  herds  of  buffalo,  and  since  then 
it  has  been  used  for  ranging  live-stock.  The  Wind-River  Valley,  eight  miles  wide  and  150 
miles  long,  has  a  rich  dark  soil  and  a  pleasant 
climate,  with  clear  and  rapid  streams  flowing 
through  its  midst.  East  of  the  Big-Horn  and 
Laramie  Mountains  the  Great  Plains  open 
away  into  South  Dakota  and  Nebraska,  wa- 
tered by  the  North  Platte,  Cheyenne,  Niobrara 
and  Powder  rivers.  The  Green-River  Basin, 
southwest  of  the  Wind-River  Mountains,  is 
drained  into  the  Colorado  of  the  West ;  and 
part  of  southwestern  Wyoming  sends  its  waters ' 
to  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  through  Bear  River. 
From  the  northwest  the  Yellowstone,  Madison  HIPPOPOTAMUS  ROCK. 


<;o6 


KING'S  IIAXI>IHH>K  <>/>'  '/'///<:  r.\7 /'/•:/)  .Y'/'./'/'A;.Y. 


SHERMAN  :    THE  AMES    MONUMENT. 


and  Gallatin  rivers  (low  to  the  upper  Missouri  ;  and  the  Snake  River  to  the  Pacific  Ocean. 
None  of  these  streams  is  navigable  in  Wyoming.  The  chief  lakes  are  in  or  near  the  Yellow- 
Mone  National  Park.  The  State  Kish  Hatchery  has  distributed  millions  of  white-fish  and 
brook  and  lake-trout  in  the  streams  of  Wyoming,  stocking  many  barren  waters  with  valu- 
able food-fish. 

Wyoming  abounds  in  natural  curiosities — lines  of  wind-blown  sandhills,  wonderful 
lossils,  divp  rafions,  waterfalls,  geysers  and  alkaline  lakes.  The  Cheyenne  Cave,  near 
Islay,  honeycombs  the  plateau  of  Table  Mountain  with  scores  of  subterranean  chambers, 

brilliant  with  their  panoply  of  stalactites  and  crystals.  The 
area  of  forest  in  Wyoming  covers  not  far  from  10,000,000 
acres,  mainly  on  the  high  mountains,  and  including  huge 
yellow  and  white  pines,  white  spruces  and  red  cedars. 

Only  one-sixth  of  Wyoming's  soil  can  be  cultivated,  and 
this  portion  is  a  sandy  loam,  which,  when  irrigated,  pro- 
duces cereals,  vegetables  and  fruits.  Districts  at  the  lower 
altitudes  are  tilled  without  irrigation,  while  the  regions 
dependent  on  artificial  watering  draw  from  the  copious 
springs  and  snows  of  the  higher  mountains.  Wyom- 
ing is  the  second  commonwealth  in  the  extent  of  its 
canals,  which  aggregate  above  5,000  miles  in  length,  watering  2,000,000  acres.  These  irri- 
gation works  have  cost  $10,000,000.  Grazing  is  the  foremost  industry  of  Wyoming,  whose 
cuttle  and  sheep  find  capital  nutriment  in  the  bunch-grass  of  the  Laramie  Plains,  the  l>ig- 
llorn  Basin,  the  Sweetwater  and  Wind- River  valleys  and  along  Green  River,  and  also  in 
the  sage-brush  of  the  desert.  The  live-stock  business  begun  here  in  1870,  and  at  one  time 
2,000,000  cattle  were  grazing  on  these  plains.  In  1885  this  industry  represented  three- 
quarters  of  Wyoming's  wealth  ;  now  it  is  less  than  half  of  it.  The  herds  are  smaller  and 
more  numerous  than  before,  and  greater  care  is  taken  to  shelter  and  feed  them  in  winter. 
The  number  of  cattle  exceeds  1,500,000.  The  State  has  1,000,000  sheep  grazing  all  the 
year  out  on  the  plains.  During  severe  storms  it  is  necessary  to  feed  them  for  a  few  days. 
Horse-raising  is  growing  rapidly,  and  the  State  has  150,000  head,  including  many  thorough- 
breds. The  live-stock  interests  represent  investments  of  $  100,000,000.  * 

The  Climate  is  cool  and  bracing  in  summer,  and  quite  severe  during  winter  months,  in 
the  higher  altitudes.  The  dry  atmosphere,  however,  very  much  lessens  the  severity  of  the 
cold.  Very  little  rain  falls,  the  average  yearly  fall  at  Fort  Laramie  be-  f  ing  14^  inches; 
and  at  Fort  Bridger  Si .  The  summer  winds 
are  southerly  ;  those  of  winter  come  from 
the  north  and  northwest.  In  common  with 
other  neighboring  States,  Wyoming  is  sub- 
ject to  occasional  winter  blizzards,  when  the 
thermometer  falls  rapidly  to  far  below  zero, 
and  snowy  and  sleety  winds  sweep  across  the 
prairies  with  irresistible  fury.  On  the  Great 
Plains  the  atmosphere  is  dry,  rare  and  clear, 
with  but  little  rain  and  great  extremes  of  temperature, 
is  bracing  and  healthful. 

Mining  employs  several  thousand  men  in  Wyoming,  although  the  larger  part  of  the 
State  remains  undeveloped.  The  gold  placers  of  the  Sweetwater  were  discovered  in  1867, 
and  for  several  years  produced  rich  results.  The  recent  developments  in  quartz-mining  in 
this  locality  are  very  encouraging.  $5, 000,000  in  bullion  has  been  taken  from  Fremont 
County  alone.  Emile  Granier's  French  syndicate  has  expended  over  $100,000  preparatory 
to  commencing  hydraulic  operations  on  the  placers  near  Atlantic  City,  in  Fremont 
County.  Other  mines  of  gold  and  silver  have  been  discovered  from  time  to  time  in  almost 


CHEYENNE  :    UNION    STATION. 

The  influence  on  the  human  system 


•^r- 


-~Vv- 


THE  STATE  OF    WYOMIXG.  ^ 

every  county  in  the  State,  but  the  product  now  is  small  The  coal  mines  at  Almy,  Evans- 
ton,  Rock  Springs,  Dana,  and  various  points  along  the  Union  Pacific,  dispose  of  most  of 
their  product  to  the  railroad.  It  is  a  lignite,  containing  50  per  cent,  of  carbon,  and  oc- 
curs in  all  parts  of  the  Territory.  The  Wyoming  coal  mined  yearly  exceeds  2,000,000 
tons,  valued  at  f  5,000,000.  The  coal  region  covers  30,000  square  miles.  Some  of  the 
deposits  contain  an  excess  of  water  or  of  sulphur,  and  though  valuable  for  steam  purposes 
in  manufacturing,  is  not  adapted  for  domestic  uses.  Valuable  deposits  of  coking  coal  have 
recently  been  developed  at  Newcastle,  Wyoming,  and  has  been  pronounced  by  experts 
equal  to  the  best  found  in  Pennsylvania.  Petroleum  has  been  developed  over  a  belt  300 
mile?  long,  but  the  wells  are  plugged,  awaiting  the  coming  of  better  transportation  facili- 
ties. The  chief  wells,  in  the  Shoshone  Basin,  near  Lander,  and  on  the  Belle- Fourche, 
yield  a  heavy  black  oil,  which  accumulates  in  ponds,  wherein  wild  ducks  and  other  birds 
are  caught  like  flies  on  sticky  paper.  Iron  Mountain,  52  miles  north  of  Cheyenne,  is  a 
mass  of  red  hematite  ore  seven  miles  long.  The  red-oxide  mineral-paint  of  Rawlins  has 
been  largely  used  by  the  Union  Pacific,  and  its  superior  quality  caused  it  to  be  recom- 
mended and  used  in  New- York  City,  on  the  East-River  Bridge  and  the  elevated  railroads. 
Vein  tin  and  stream  tin  are  found  in  the  Wyoming  Black  Hills,  and  copper  and  iron 
mines  are  in  operation  in  the  Platte  Canon,  at  Hartville,  and  elsewhere.  On  the  Laramie 
Plains  and  in  other  localities  occur  several  soda  lakes,  with  deposits  of  sodium  sulphate  of 
from  ten  to  40  feet  thick.  These  products  are  manufactured  into  merchantable  soda  at 
chemical  works  in  Laramie.  The  saline 
springs,  30  miles  south  of  Sundance  on 
Salt  Creek,  have  produced  large  quan- 
tities of  salt.  Among  the  other  mineral 
treasures  are  gypsum  and  mica,  marble 
and  granite,  graphite  and  cinnabar,  lime-  "^ 
stone  and  magnesium,  kaolin  and  fire- 
clay, glass-sand  and  asbestos.  Gray  and 
white  sandstone  is  quarried  at  Rawlins 
and  Laramie,  and  red  and  pink  sandstone 
at  (lien  Rock  and  Laramie.  Saratoga,  on 
the  North  Platte,  has  a  group  of  hot  sul- 
phur springs,  allaying  rheumatism  and 
kindred  diseases,  and  a  large  hotel  invites  patronage.  -The  mineral  spring  at  Leroy  has  been 
a  remedy  for  dyspepsia,  and  the  soda  springs  of  Piedmont  possess  medicinal  virtue. 

Government.— Wyoming  became  a  State  in  1890.  The  Capitol,  at  Cheyenne,  contains 
60  apartments,  in  a  handsome  new  sandstone  building,  with  a  Corinthian  portico  and  a  high 
dome.  The  State  Library  numbers  15,000  volumes.  The  Wyoming  National  Guard  has  well- 
disciplined  companies  at  Laramie  and  Cheyenne.  The  Institution  for  the  Deaf,  Dumb  and 
Blind  is  at  Cheyenne.  The  Insane  Asylum,  at  Evanston,  has  a  commodious  brick  and 
stone  building.  The  Penitentiary  is  a  substantial  structure  of  stone  and  iron  at  Rawlins. 
The  United-States  Penitentiary  at  Laramie  has  about  twenty  inmates.  It  has  recently  been 
enlarged  and  will  now  comfortably  accommodate  150  convicts.  The  prison,  on  admission 
of  Wyoming,  was  made  a  gift  to  the  State,  and  will  probably  become  the  permanent 
Penitentiary,  when  the  institution  at  Rawlins  will  be  converted  into  a  reform  school. 

Fort  D.  A.  Russell,  three  miles  northwest  of  Cheyenne,  is  the  chief  garrison  in  the 
Department  of  the  Platte,  with  long  lines  of  brick  barracks  anil  a  garrison  of  ten  compa- 
nies of  infantry.  Fort  McKinney,  two  miles  from  Buffalo,  at  the  base  of  the  Big- 1  lorn 
Mountains,  is  a  four-company  post.  Fort  Washakie,  fifteen  miles  from  lender,  on  Wind 
River,  commands  the  Shoshone  Agency.  There  are  garrisons  at  Camp  Pilot  Butte,  near 
Rock  Springs,  and  Camp  Sheridan,  in  the  National  Park.  Forts  Bridget,  Laramie,  Halleck, 
Phil  Kearney,  Stambaugh,  Fetter  man  and  Sanders  have  been  abandoned. 


908  KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

Education  is  compulsory,  and  there  is  very  little  illiteracy.  $1,000,000  have  been 
spent  on  the  erection  of  schools.  The  University  of  Wyoming,  opened  at  Laramie  in  1887, 
occupies  a  handsome  and  spacious  stone  building,  heated  by  steam  and  lighted  by  electricity. 
It  has  a  large  land-grant  from  the  General  Government ;  and  tuition  is  gratuitous.  There 
are  Catholic  academies  at  Cheyenne  and  Laramie  City  and  on  the  Shoshone  Reservation. 

Religion  is  represented  by  many  prosperous  societies.  The  Catholic  Diocese  of  Wyom- 
ing has  its  cathedral  city  at  Cheyenne  ;  and  Wyoming  and  Idaho  form  an  Episcopal  diocese, 
whose  bishop  lives  at  Laramie  City.  " 

The  first  newspapers  were  the  Evening  Leader,  Daily  Argus  and  Rocky- Mountain  £tar, 
all  published  in  Cheyenne  in  1867,  and  followed  by  the  Sweet-water  Miner,  founded  at 
Fort  Bridger  in  1868.  There  are  now  four  daily  newspapers  in  Cheyenne  and  Laramie  City, 
and  22  weekly  papers  (including  two  agricultural)  at  Buffalo,  Cheyenne,  Douglas,  Evanston, 
Glenrock,  Lander,  Laramie  City,  Lusk,  Rawlins,  Rock  Springs,  Sheridan  and  Sundance. 

Chief  Cities. — Cheyenne,  the  capital  of  Wyoming,  is  6,075  feet  above  the  sea,  at  the 
foot  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  twelve  miles  from  Colorado  and  40  miles  from  Nebraska,  anil 
gathers  into  her  arms  four  railways,  with  large  car-shops  and  handsome  stations.  In  1867 
the  first  rude  village  rose  on  this  site,  where  now  stands  an  ambitious  modern  city,  with 
costly  water- works  and  sewerage  systems,  electric  lights  and  telephones,  street-cars  and  fac- 
tories. It  is  the  supply  point  for  a  broad  stock-raising  country  and  the  headquarters  of 
wealthy  cattle  companies.  Cheyenne  is  1,918  miles  from  New- York,  1.348  from  San  Fran- 
cisco and  1,432  from  Galveston. 

Laramie  City  has  the  finest  situation  of  any  Wyoming  settlement,  and  is  a  supply  point 
for  widely  scattered  ranches  and  mines,  with  large  machine-shops,  rolling-mills,  glass-works 
and  other  industries,  telephones,  electric  lights,  water- works,  capital  schools  and  prospering 
churches.  Laramie  is  named  after  a  French  trapper,  killed  by  the  Arapahoes  on  the  stream 
which  bears  his  name. 

Rawlins,  7,000  feet  above  the  sea,  has  large  machine-shops,  costly  public  buildings  and 
a  wide-reaching  country  trade.  Rock  Springs  is  famous  for  its  great  coal-mines.  Evanston, 
an  ambitious  city  on  Bear  River,  thrives  by  the  same  industry. 

The  Railroads  of  Wyoming  are  the  Union  Pacific,  crossing  the  southern  part  for  489 
miles,  from  Nebraska  to  Utah  ;  the  Cheyenne  &  Northern,  from  Cheyenne,  125  miles  north, 
to  Douglas  (near  Fort  Fetterman) ;  the  Oregon  Short  Line,  from  Granger  to  Idaho  (and 
Oregon)  ;  the  Denver  Pacific  and  the  Cheyenne  &  Burlington,  running  south  and  southeast 
from  Cheyenne  ;  and  the  Laramie,  North-Park  &  Pacific,  southwest  from  Laramie  City. 

The  Wyoming  Central  line  runs  130  miles  westward  from  Nebraska  through  an  agri- 
cultural and  mining  country,  to-Casper,  in  a  region  of  oil-wells,  soda-lakes  and  grazing 
plains.  This  is  a  section  of  the  Chicago  &  Northwestern  system  ;  and  is  to  be  extended  to 
Ogden,  Utah.  The  Chicago,  Burlington  &  Quincy  line  has  just  built  a  route  200  miles 
long,  from  Alliance  (Neb.)  into  the  coking-coal  region  of  the  Black  Hills,  .near  New  Castle, 
large  areas  of  which  are  owned  by  the  Burlington. 

Among  the  lines  under  construction  are  the  Union  Pacific  &  Western  Colorado,  from 
Fort  Steele,  southeast,  into  Colorado  ;  the  Wyoming  &  Midland,  from  Lander  north  down 
the  Big-Horn  Valley  to  the  Northern  Pacific  ;  and  the  Wyoming  Southern,  from  Casper  to 
Buffalo  and  Sheridan  and  into  Montana. 

The  Union  Pacific  Railroad  traverses  the  southern  part  of  Wyoming  for  454  miles,  and 
the  chief  cities  of  Wyoming  and  the  developed  wealth  of  the  State  are  located  along  this  line 
of  railroad.  The  line  crosses  the  Laramie  range  at  Sherman,  8, 269  feet  above  the  sea,  and 
beyond  Fort  Fred  Steele  it  runs  along  the  desert  table-lands  whence  the  Green  River  flows 
down  to  the  Colorado,  and  the  Bear  River  to  the  Great  Salt  Lake.  At  Sherman  the  Union 
Pacific  Company  has  erected  a  granite  pyramid  65  feet  high,  to  the  memory  of  Oakes  Ames 
and  Oliver  Ames,  of  Massachusetts,  to  whose  labors  the  completion  of  the  railroad  was 
so  largely  due. 


THE  STATE   OF   WYOMING. 


909 


YELLOWSTONE    NATIONAL   PARK,    IN    WYOMING. 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


The  Yellowstone  National  Park  covers  a  rectangle  of  3,575  square  miles,  nearly 
all  in  northwestern  Wyoming.  It  is  a  lofty  and  billowy  plateau,  8,000  feet  above  the  sea, 
nearly  as  large  as  Connecticut,  covered  with  dense  forests  of  Douglas  spruce  and  yellow 
pine,  and  broken  by  isolated  groups  of  mountains.  The  whole  region  is  overlaid  with  lava 
and  dotted  with  geysers  and  hot  springs,  depositing  iron,  silica,  lime  and  sulphur,  and 
bursting  forth  on  nearly  every  square  mile,  in  the  woods  and  along  the  peaks,  and  even  boil- 
ing up  in  the  lakes.  These  are  the  largest  geysers  in  the  world,  exceeding  those  of  Iceland 
or  New  Zealand ;  and  their  variety  of  action,  character  and  power  is  wonderfully  interesting. 

_^ =      There  are  more  geysers  and  hot  springs  in  this  reserva- 

tion  than  in  any  other  region  of  thermal  activity,  and  yet 
they  are  but  the  diminishing  remnant  of  the  fiercer  vol- 
canic energies  of  past  ages. 

The  Park  is  too  high  and  too  cold  for  successful  farm- 
ing, and  its  volcanic  character  forbids  profit  in  mining. 
The  domain  has  therefore  been  reserved  as  a  museum  of 
YELLOWSTONE  LAKE.  mineralogical  curiosities,  with  variegated  obsidian  cliffs, 

sulphur  and  alum  and  soda  springs,  pitchstone  plateaus,  the  brilliantly  colored  basins  of 
dead  geysers,  hills  of  sulphur,  vivid  cliffs  of  glassy  rock,  paint-pots  and  crater  hills.  This 
diversity  of  scenes  gives  an  interest  to  the  Park  different  from  that  of  other  resorts,  for  the 
amazed  visitor  passes  from  one  unique  object  to  another,  for  days,  observing  the  rarest  curi- 
osities of  Nature,  and  surrounded  at  times  by  a  barbaric  pageant  of  color,  with  roaring 
rivers,  sunlit  lakes,  profound  forests  and  lines  of  snowy  peaks.  Along  the  slopes  of  Ame- 
thyst Mountain  hundreds  of  petrified  trees  stand  like  columns  of  ruined  temples,  many  of 
them  of  great  size  and  in  good  preservation.  A  prostrate  trunk  is  found  60  feet  long  and 
six  feet  thick,  completely  opalized  or  agatized,  and  filled  with  beautiful  crystals. 

The  huge  and  serrated  snowy  ranges  which  traverse  the  reservation  include  a  long  and 
singularly  curving  extent  of  the  Continental  Divide,  sheltering  lovely  valleys  and  parks, 
sylvan  streams  and  quiet  lakes,  and  cut  deeply  by  profound  canons.  Intricate  and  almost 
impassable  ranges  of  mountains  hinder  approach  from  the  Wyoming  settlements,  and  the 
only  easy  routes  of  entrance  are  from  Montana  and  Idaho.  Mt.  Washburne,  a  fragment  of 
an  extinct  volcano,  reaching  a  height  of  10,346  feet,  is  ascended  by  a  bridle-path,  and  com- 
mands a  good  view  over  the  long  ranges  of  peaks  in  every  direction  and  across  the  shining 
levels  of  Yellowstone  Lake.  The  Gallatin  Range  enwalls  the  Park  on  the  northwest,  cul- 
minating in  Electric  Peak,  11,100  feet  high  ;  and  the  eastern  wall  of  the  Park  is  the  mag- 
nificent Absaroka  Ridge,  reaching  a  height  of  n,ooo  feet,  and 
practically  impassable.  In  the  south  the  Red  Mountains  cul- 
minate in  Mount  Sheridan,  10,385  feet  high,  viewing  an  area  of 
70,000  square  miles,  including  470  mountains  of  the  first  class, 
and  wide  areas  of  Montana,  Idaho  and  Utah.  The  outlooks 
from  the  highlands  are  of  unusual  extent  and  grandeur  on 
account  of  the  purity  and  clearness  of  the  mountain  air. 

The  Park  has  6,000  hot  springs  and  rents,  generally  at  165°  • 
to  170°,  the  chief  groups  being  the  Mammoth  and  other  lime 
springs,  on  Gardiner  River,  and  the  siliceous  springs  on  Upper 
Firehole  River,  between  30  and  40  miles  south.  They  are 
practically  volcanoes  of  water,  and  vary  from  quiet  hot  pools  of 
perfect  transparency  to  jets  of  200  feet  high,  shot  up  by  the  force 
of  steam  gathering  in  the  cavities  below  ground,  and  roaring^- 
like  entrapped  thunderstorms.  These  huge  fountains  give  forth 
clouds  of  steam  and  vapor,  accompanied  by  awful  rumblings 
and  explosions,  recalling  the  time  when  the  whole  Yellowstone 
basin  was  a  vast  crater  containing  a  thousand  lesser  volcanic  yELLOWSTONE  PARK  .-  PALACE  BUTTE. 


THE  STATE   OF    WYOMING. 


911 


vents  and  fissures.  As  Professor  Hayden  says,  the  banks  are  "literally  honeycombed  with 
springs,  pools  and  geysers  that  are  constantly  gurgling,  spitting,  steaming,  roaring  and 
exploding." 

The  Mammoth  Hot  Springs  break  out  on  Terrace  Mountain,  the  chief  one  being  25  by 
40  feet  in  area  ;  and  descend  the  hill-slope  from  a  height  of  1,000  feet,  over  an  area  of  2^ 
square  miles  of  snow-white  calcareous  deposits,  like  a  series  of  frozen  cascades.  As  they 
near  the  level  of  Gardiner  River  they  flow  from  the  top  of  a  travertine  hill  200  feet  high, 
falling  outward  through  a  series  of  richly  tinted  scolloped  basins,  and  cooling  as  they 
descend.  The  waters  are  of  a  turquoise-blue  tint  and  marvellously  transparent,  and  nourish 
a  delicate  and  highly  colored  vegetation.  The  spectacle-shaped  valley  of  the  Firehole 
River,  36  miles  distant,  contains  thousands  of  hot  springs  and  vents,  pouring  out  clouds  of 
steam,  and  fifty  active  geysers,  some  intermittent,  and  others  perpetually  emitting  columns 
of  water,  sometimes  as  high  as  250  feet.  Every  hour  "Old  Faithful"  throws  a  boiling  jet 
1 60  feet  into  the  air,  and  the  Castle  Geyser  once  every  48  hours  ejects  from  its  castellated 
mount  of  deposits  a  huge  column  of  water  100  feet  high.  The  Grand  Geyser  sends  up  a 
massive  jet  of  hot  water  25  feet  thick  at  the  base  and  200  feet  high,  breaking  at  the  top 


into  cascades  of  jewel-like 
above.  The  Fan,  Giant,  Gi- 
geysers  are  not  less  amaz- 
group  of  geysers  in  the  world 
running  along  the  Firehole 
less  than  a  mile  wide.  It 
and  hundreds  of  others,  and 
Geyser  Basin,  farther  down 
boiling  springs  and  six  inter- 
the  Geyser  Basin  opens  the 
taining  500  springs  of  highly 
from  the  fine  canon  and  falls 
ther  north  is  Norris  Basin, 
Monarch  and  the  Hurricane, 
ber  of  mud  springs,  varying 
to  craters  of  seething  mud 
and  iron  coloring  them  beau- 
group  of  mud  springs,  as 
near  the  Yellowstone,  above 


GREAT    FALLS    OF   THE   YELLOWSTONE. 


spray,  with  great  vapor  clouds 
antess,  Bee-hive  and  other 
ing.  The  most  wonderful 
is  the  Upper  Geyser  Basin, 
River  for  several  miles  and 
includes  414  boiling  springs 
26  great  geysers.  The  Lower 
the  Firehole,  contains  693 
esting  geysers.  Northeast  of 
Gibbon  Paint-pot  Basin,  con- 
colored  boiling  mud,  not  far 
on  the  Gibbon  River.  Far- 
with  its  vigorous  geysers,  the 
There  are  also  a  great  num- 
from  bowls  of  turbid  water 
100  feet  across,  with  sulphur 
tiful  yellows  and  pinks.  A 
thick  as  paint,  breaks  out 
the  falls,  with  a  geyser  which 


formerly  shot  boiling  mud  forty  feet  high.  Near  the  Sulphur  Hills  clusters  of  boiling  sulphur 
springs  ceaselessly  pour  forth  floods  of  ill-savored  medicinal  waters.  The  Heart-Lake 
geysers  are  celebrated  for  their  brilliant  deposits ;  and  Shoshone  Lake  also  has  its  group  of 
hot  roaring  fountains.  This  region  abounds  in  rain,  which  gives  it  several  fine  rivers  and 
beautiful  mountain-bordered  lakes.  Here  are  the  sources  of  the  great  Missouri  and 
Columbia  rivers,  whose  waters  seek  the  sea  on  opposite  sides  of  the  continent.  Green 
River,  the  head  of  the  Colorado  of  the  West,  rises  in  the  Wind-River  Mountains,  a  few 
miles  south  of  the  Park.  The  Yellowstone  begins  its  course  in  the  Absaroka  Range  and 
flows  through  Yellowstone  Lake  and  then  out  to  the  northward,  gently  enough  for  ten  miles, 
widening  around  pretty  islands,  and  then  rushing  and  whitening  down  to  a  cliff  140  feet 
high,  over  which  it  falls  in  a  magnificent  snowy  curve,  reaching  the  rocks  below  fifteen  feet 
outside  of  the  base  of  the  precipice.  The  Great  Falls  of  the  Yellowstone  are  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  below,  where  the  fretted  stream  takes  a  leap  of  308  feet,  a  huge  mass  of  sea-green 
water,  fringed  and  flecked  with  spray  and  foam,  and  thundering  into  a  dark  pool  enwalled 
by  cliffs  900  feet  high.  The  Grand  Canon  of  the  Yellowstone  begins  below  the  falls,  and 
is  a  score  of  miles  long,  and  from  600  to  1,200  feet  deep,  cut  in  the  volcanic  plateau,  with 
ragged  enwalling  cliffs  of  vivid  red  and  brown,  yellow  and  white,  brilliant  as  the  colors  in 


912  KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF' THE   UNITED   STATES. 

a  paint-box,  and  flecked  by  the  vapors  of  hot  springs  and  the  cascades  of  entering  brooks. 
These  lines  of  rocks  are  lifted  up  into  singular  shapes,  as  of  castle  towers  and  cathedral 
arches,  pinnacles  and  spires,  minarets  and  domes,  and  other  mimicries  of  human  archi- 
tecture ;  and  below  the  drapery  of  dark-green  pine  forests,  at  their  bases,  the  silvery  river 
winds  swiftly  away  toward  the  open  country. 

The  stories  told  by  the  old  Yellowstone  trappers  about  this  region  were  received  with 
disbelief,  until  1863,  when  Capt.  De  Lacy  explored  the  Lower  Geyser  Basin.  In  1869  two 
Montana  prospectors  visited  the  geysers  ;  and  in  1870  a  more  thorough  reconnaissance 
was  made  by  Surveyor-General  Washburne  of  Montana.  After 
Dr.  Hayden's  scientific  explorations  had  more  fully  revealed  its 
wonders,  Congress  reserved  the  domain  from  settlement,  in 
1872.  In  subsequent  years  army  officers  and  geological  expedi- 
tions have  carefully  examined  and  mapped  this  land  of  wonders. 
It  is  now  visited  yearly  by  about  6,000  tourists,  coming  up  the 
Yellowstone  Valley  on  a  branch  of  the  Northern  Pacific  Rail- 
road to  Cinnabar,  which  is  within  six  miles  of  the  Mammoth 
Springs ;  or  leaving  the  Utah  Northern  line  at  Beaver  Canon, 
no  miles  from  Firehole  Basin.  Stages  run  to  the  Park  from 
both  these  stations,  and  stop  at  the  hotels,  which  are  managed 
by  the  Yellowstone- Park  Association,  under  certain  restrictions 
of  the  Government.  The  Park  is  policed  by  two  companies  of 
the  1st  U.-S.  Cavalry,  to  prevent  mutilation  of  the  geysers, 
MAMMOTH  HOT  SPRINGS.  wanton  destruction  of  game  and  the  burning  of  the  forests. 

The  best  months  for  a  visit  are  July,  August  or  September,  and  even  then  the  nights  are 
frosty.  The  Government  protects  game  within  this  great  holiday  reservation  by  stringent 
laws  ;  and  deer  and  antelope,  elk  and  moose,  wolves  and  foxes,  big-horns  and  coyotes,  and 
many  other  wild  animals  increase  and  multiply  within  these  vast  forests.  There  are  also 
grizzly,  cinnamon,  black,  silver-tipped,  smut-faced  and  silk  bears  ;  and  in  the  remoter  val- 
leys small  herds  of  -buffalo  may  be  found.  The  rapid  extermination  which  is  befalling 
many  species  of  the  larger  animals  of  the  West  is  arrested  here,  and  the  Park  will  be  a 
museum  of  the  saved  remnant  of  otherwise  extinct  races. 

The  deep  and  far-winding  Yellowstone  Lake  is  shaped  like  a  hand,  with  a  huge  thumb 
and  misshapen  fingers.  It  has  a  length  of  20  miles  and  a  width  of  1 5  miles,  with  a  shore- 
line of  112  miles,  lying  upon  the  crest  of  the  continent,  7,440  feet  above  the  sea,  under 
rugged,  gray  and  snow-capped  mountains.  The  lake  is  always  placid  at  morning,  but  later 
a  strong  west  wind  rises  and  covers  the  water  with  white-caps,  throwing  also  a  booming 
surf  along  the  eastern  shore  and  against  the  pine-clad  promontories  and  islands.  This  gem 
of  emerald  green  set  amid  dark  volcanic  mountains  has  pure  and  cold  water,  and  is  bordered 
on  the  south  and  west  by  heavy  pine-forests  and  on  the  north  and  east  by  grassy  prairies, 
running  up  to  the  base  of  a  line  of  peaks  10,000  feet  high,  clad  with  snow  until  far  in  the 
summer.  Half  a  mile  south,  and  only  300  feet  above  the  lake,  is  the  crest  of  the  Conti- 
nental Divide. 

Elsewhere  in  the  Park  are  the  beautiful  Shoshone  and  Lewis  lakes,  the  sources  of  the 
Snake  River,  whose  waters  flow  to  the  Columbia  and  the  Pacific  Ocean  through  hundreds 
of  leagues  of  lava-faced  canons. 

Heart  Lake  also  sends  its  shining  stream  from  near  Mt.  Sheridan  to  join  this  river, 
which  then  pours  through  Jackson  Lake,  close  under  the  huge  Teton  Range.  Along  the 
eastern  side  of  Jackson  Lake  is  the  valley  known  to  the  old-time  trappers  as  Jackson's  Hole, 
and  used  as  a  winter  rendezvous.  There  are  noble  falls  on  the  Madison,  Gibbon,  Firehole 
and  Gardiner  rivers ;  and  in  the  emerald  pools  about  them  dwell  countless  trout.  Tower 
Creek  runs  from  Mt.  Washburne  to  the  lower  part  of  the  Grand  Canon,  with  a  series  of 
wonderful  falls,  canons,  rocky  towers,  basaltic  palisades  and  sulphur  springs. 


INDEX. 


Abbot-Downing  Co.,  547. 

Aberdeen,  S.  D.,  794,  793. 

Absaraka  Range,  Wy.,  910. 

Acadians,  La.,  295,  302. 

Acid  Phosphate,  780. 

Adams  &  Westlake  Co.,  226. 

Adams,  Fort,  R.  I.,  769. 

Adelbert  College,  Ohio,  672. 

Adirondack  Mts.,  582,  583. 

Adler  &  Sullivan,  115,  214, 413, 414, 
876,  279, 636. 

Adriaen  Blok,  118. 

Adrian,  Mich.,  415. 

Agate  Iron  Ware,  642. 

Agncws  Hospital  for  Insane,  94. 

Agricultural  Implements,  225. 

Agriculture,  Depart,  of,  158, 151. 

Aiken,  S.  C.,  785,  784. 

Akron  Cereal  Mills,  687. 

Akron,  Ohio,  668,  673. 

Akron  Sewer  Pipe  Co.,  686. 

Alabama  :  history,  27 ;  name, 
arms,  list  of  governors,  descrip- 
tion, 29  ;  climate,  30  ;  agricul- 
ture, 31  ;  minerals,  government, 
32  ;  charities  and  corrections, 
National  institutions,  33  ;  edu- 
cation, 34  ;  newspapers,  chief 
cities,  35  ;  railroads,  navigation, 
manufactures,  41 ;  finances,  42  ; 
map,  461. 

Ala.  Land  &  Development  Co., 
31,  41. 

Alabama  River,  29,  30,  35. 

Alamo,  The,  812. 

Alaska  :  historic,  43  ;  name,  seal, 
governors,  descriptive,  44  ;  gov- 
ernment, 49  ;  minerals,  51  ;  seal 
fisheries,  chief  cities,  52  ;  map, 
465- 

Alaskans,  50. 

Albany,  609,  603,  591,  606,  577. 

Albany  Post-office,  634. 

Albemarle  Sound,  648,  649. 

Albert  Field  Tack  Co.,  395. 

Albertypes,  362. 

Albuquerque,  N.  M.,  574,  572,  573. 

Albuquerque  Cathedral,  571. 

Alburgh  Springs,  Vt.,  843. 

Alcatraz,  Cal.,  92,  80,  72. 

Alcazar,  The,  St.  Augustine,  175. 

Aleutian  Archipelago,  45,  48. 

Alexander,  A.  J.,  281,  282,  283. 

Alexandria,  Va.,  150,  162,  851,  852. 

Alfalfa,  86,  109. 

Alfred  University,  N.  Y.,  595. 

Alger,  Smith  &  Co.,  408. 

Algonquin  Club,  360,  359. 

Alhambra  Library,  Cal.,  86. 

Alleghany  Mts.,  649,  30,  717. 

Allegheny  Arsenal,  Penn.,  728. 

Allegheny  City,  738,  733,  734- 

Allegheny  College,  731. 

Allegheny  Observatory,  731. 

Allegheny  Portage  R.  R.,  740. 

Allegheny  River,  Penn.,  719. 

Allegrippus  Curve,  Penn.,  720. 


Allen  &  Ginter,  864. 

Allen,  Ethan,  839,  840. 

Allen's  English  &  Classical  School, 

West  Newton,  Mass.,  358. 
Allentown,  Penn.,  739. 
Alligator  Swamp,  N.  C.,  649. 
Allis,  H.  G.,  66. 
Allyn  Memorial,  Hartford,  133. 
Almond  Orchards,  Cal.,  83. 
Alpine  Pass,  Col.,  no. 
Alpine  Tunnel,  Col.,  112. 
Alton,  111.,  218. 
Altoona,  Penn.,  739. 
Alum  Cave,  Tenn.,  798. 
Amargosa  River,  Cal.,  76. 
America,  the  name,  7. 
American  Bank  Note  Co.,  630. 
American  Biscuit  &  Mfg.  Co.,  230, 

456,  644,  452. 
American  Book  Co.,  629. 
American  Bottom,  111.,  202,  204. 
American  Card  Clothing  Co.,  388. 
American  Central  Ins.  Co.,  455. 
American    Exchange    Bank,  Du- 

luth,  435. 

American  Falls,  Idaho,  196. 
American  Flag,  n,  4. 
American  Insurance  Co.,  561. 
American  Philosophic  Society, 

734. 

American  Ship  Windlass  Co.,  779. 
American  Straw  Board  &   Lum- 
ber Co.,  684. 
American  Waltham  Watch  Co., 

380. 
American  Wheel  Co.,  226, 692,  746, 

245,  416. 

American  Wine  Co.,  457. 
Ames  Building,  375. 
Ames  family,  304,  379. 
Ames  Library,  N.  Easton,  377. 
Ames  Monument,  Wy.,  906,  908. 
Ames,  Oliver,  379. 
Ames  (Oliver)  &  Sons,  379. 
Amherst,  Mass.,  119,  349. 
Amherst  College,  Mass.,  354,  356. 
Amoskeag  Falls,  N.  H.,  540. 
Amoskeag  Mfg.  Co.,  545. 
Amsterdam,  N.  Y.,  603. 
Anaconda  Mine,  Mont.,  519. 
Anaheim,  Cal.,  80. 
Anarchists,  111.,  203. 
Anacortes,  Wash.,  870. 
Ancient  and  Hon.  Artillery,  350. 
Ancient  Court-House,  294. 
Anderson,  J.  C.  231,  400. 
Anderson  Pressed  Brick,  644,  231. 
Anderson  Common  Brick  Co.,  231. 
Andersonville,  Ga.,  186. 
Andover  Seminary,  355,  357. 
Andros,  Sir  Edmund,  341,  577, 118. 
Andre,  Major,  576. 
Anheuser-Busch  Brewery,  457. 
Animas  Canon,  106. 
A.  N.  Kellogg  Newspaper  Co.,  212. 
Annapolis,  Md.,  334,  328,  332,  322, 

22,  17. 


Ann  Arbor,  Mich.,  412,  415. 

Ann,  Cape,  Mass.,  346,  347,  348. 

Anniston,  Ala.,  36,  35. 

Anniston  Inn,  Ala.,  36. 

Ansonia  Brass  &  Copper  Co., 
138. 

Ansonia  Clock  Co.,  633,  139. 

Antelope  Buttes,  Okla.,  695. 

Antelope  Island,  Utah,  835,  837. 

Antelope  State,  522. 

Anthony,  E.  &  H.  T.,  633. 

Antietam,  Md.,  322,  333,  323. 

Antietam  National  Cemetery,  327. 

Antioch  College,  Ohio,  672,  673. 

Anti-rent  War,  581. 

Anti-slavery,  343. 

Apache  Pass,  Ariz.  56. 

Apaches,  54,  33,  695. 

Apache  State,  54. 

Appalachian  Mts.,  12. 

Applejack,  555. 

Aransas  Pass,  Texas,  815. 

Arapahoes,  Okla.,  694. 

Ararat,  Mount,  Penn.,  740. 

Arbuckle  Bros.  Coffee  Co.,  640. 

Arcade,  Pullman,  215. 

Arcadia  Valley,  Mo.,  447. 

Archaean  Bluffs,  Nev.,  535. 

Archer  &  Pancoast  Mfg.  Co.,  634. 

Arch  Rock,  Mackinac,  404. 

Archipelago  de  Haro,  870. 

Arctic  Circle,  46,  47. 

Arctic  Ocean,  48,  46,  47,  50. 

Argo,  Col.,  114. 

Arizona :  history,  53 ;  name, 
pet  name,  54  ;  arms,  governors, 
description,  55 ;  agriculture, 
minerals,  government,railroads, 
58  ;  map,  462. 

Arkansas  :  history,  59 ;  name, 
arms,  list  of  governors,  descrip- 
tive, 61  ;  climate,  farming,  64  ; 
finances,  minerals,  government, 
66  ;  education,  chief  cities,  67  ; 
railroads,  manufactures,  68 ; 
map,  463. 

Arkansas  City,  Kan.,  272. 

Ark.  Deaf  Mute  Institute,  65. 

Ark.  Industrial  University,  67, 62. 

Arkansas  Post,  60,  59. 

Arkansas  River,  106,  62,  266,  248. 

Ark.  School  for  the  Blind,  65. 

Arlington  Hotel,  D.  C.,  164. 

Arlington,  Va.,  855,  852,  854,  163. 

Armenians,  366,  368. 

Armor-plate,  748. 

Armory,  U.  S.,  349,  352. 

Armour  Packing  Co.,  456. 

Arms-making,  381. 

Armstrong,  Cator  &  Co.,  337. 

Army,  The,  17,  156. 

Army  Medical  Museum,  159, 162. 

Army  signal-flags,  4. 

Army  of  Utah,  832. 

Aroostook  War,  Me.,  312. 

Aroostook  Valley,  Me.,  316. 

Arrowhead  Hot  Springs,  80- 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED  STATES. 


Artesian  State,  790. 
Art  Club,  Phila.,  727. 
Arthur-kill  Bridge,  562,  608. 
Art  Institute,  Chicago,  222. 
Art  Metal  Goods,  134. 
Art  Museum,  Ohio,  674. 
Art  Printing,  628. 
Asbestos  Packing  Co.,  397. 
Asbury  Park,  N.  J.,  554. 
Asheville,  N.  C.,  650. 
Ashland  Iron  &  Steel  Co.,  894. 
Ashland,  Ky.,  282. 
Ashland,  Wis.,  898,  899. 
Aspen,  Col.,  no. 
Asquam  Lake,  N.  H.,  540. 
Assay  Office,  N.  Y.,  610. 
Assabet  Mills,  Mass.,  387. 
Assay  Office,  Helena,  515. 
Assiniboine,  Fort,  518,  517. 
Assiniboincs,  Mont.,  518. 
Astoria,  Ore.,  698,  708. 
Astor  Library,  N.  Y.,  626. 
Atchison,  Kan.,  272,  264. 
Atchison,    Topeka  &   Santa    Fe, 

272,  112,  574   694. 
Athenaeum,  Boston,  360. 
Athenaeum,  Pittsfield,  345.. 
Athertpn,  J.  M.,  distillery,  292. 
Athletic  Goods,  232. 
Athens,  Ga.,  190,  187. 
Atkinson,  B.  A.,  &  Co.,  400. 
Atlanta  Constitution,  186,  187. 
Atlanta,  Ga.,    189,    178,    179,   183, 

185,  186,  187,  190,  192. 
Atlanta  University,  188. 
Atlantic  Canon,  Mont.,  513. 
Atlantic  City,  N.  J.,  553,  554. 
Atlantic  Coast  Line,  863,  562,  176, 

654. 

Atlantic  Mutual  Ins.  Co.,  619. 
Atlas  of  the  States,  416. 
Atoka,  I.  T.,  252. 
Attu  Island,  Alaska,  45. 
Auburn  Theol.  Seminary,  596. 
Auditorium,  Dining  Hall,  216. 
Auditorium,  The,  216,621. 
Augusta,  Ga.,  189,    190,   178,  186, 

187,  179,  181. 

Augusta  Canal,  Ga.,  191. 
Augusta,  Me.,  316,  318. 
Aurora,  111.,  216. 
Au-Sable  Chasm,  N.  Y.,  585. 
Au-Sable  Pond,  N.  Y.,  585. 
Austin,  John,  &  Son,  779. 
Austin,  Texas,  820,  824,  816,  821. 
Automatic    Fire     Extinguishers, 

778. 
A  very,    B.    F.,    &     Sons'     Plow 

Works,  290. 

Azure  Cliffs,  Utah,  833. 
Azore  Islanders,  366. 

Babcock  &  Wilcox  Co.,  565. 
Baboquivari  Peak,  Ariz.,  55. 
Badger  State,  888. 
Bad  Lands,  657,  511,  523,  790. 

Bailey  4Bh>ck,  Seattle,  877. 
Baker,  Walter  &  Co.,  383. 
Baking  Powder,  780. 
Bald-Eagle  Valley,  Pa.,  718. 
Baldwin,  D.  H.,  &  Co.,  688. 
Baldwin  Locomotive  Works,  746. 
Ball  High  School,  821. 
Ball,  Hatchings  &  Co.,  826. 
Balsam  Mts.,  N.  C..  645,  650,  652. 
Baltimore,  Md.,  333,  322. 


B.  &  O.    Railroad,  335,   322,  324, 

332,  336,  154, 884. 

B.&  6.  R.  R.  6ffices,  Chicago,  223. 
Baltimore  Cathedral,  328. 
Baltimore  City  Hall,  331. 
Baltimore  C.  H.,  334. 
Baltimore,  Lord,  321,  322. 
Baltimore  Monuments,  333. 
Baltimore  P.  O.,  334. 
B.  &.  O.  R.  R.  station,  Phila.,  739. 
B.  &  O.  R.  R.  Pittsburgh,  738. 
Baltimore  Union  station,  324. 
Baltimore  Sun,  332. 
Baltimore  Sun,  D.  C.,  164. 
Bananas,  172. 
Bangor,  Me.,  318,  319. 
Bank  Note  Paper,  389,  742. 
Bank  of  America,  612. 
Bank    of     Commerce,    Memphis, 

808. 

Bank  of  Kentucky,  287. 
Bank  of  N.  America,  Phila.,  743. 
Baptist  Church,  First,  Boston,  367. 
Baptist  Church,  Little  Rock,  67. 
Barbour  Bros.  Co.,  566. 
Barbed  Wire,  378. 
Barge  Office,  N.  Y.,  25. 
Bar  Harbor,  Me.,  314,  315. 
Barn  Bluff,  Minn.,  420. 
Barnegat  Light,  N.  J.,  550. 
Barnett,  J.  W.,  303. 
Barney  &  Smith  Mfg.  Co.,  681. 
Barnum,  PhineasT.,  142. 
Barracks,  Ft.  Leavenworth,  272. 
Barre,  Vt.,  845. 

Barrow,  Point,  Alaska,  46,  47,  50. 
Bartholdi  Statue,  7,  558. 
Bates  College,  Me.,  318. 
Bath,  Me.,  318. 

Baton  Rouge,  La.,  306,  307,  2915. 
Battery  Park  Hotel,  N.  C.,  650. 
Battery,  The,  Charleston,  782. 
Battle-Born  State,  533. 


Battle-Creek  College,  410,413. 
Battle  Monument,  Bait.,  333. 
Bausch  &  Lomb  Optical  Co.,  637. 


Baxter  Court,  Nashville,  805. 

Baylor  University,  Tex.,  817,  822. 

Bayonne,  N.  J.,  563. 

Bayou  Bartholomew, Ark.,  63. 

Bayous,  298,  294. 

Bayou  State,  439. 

Bay  State,  344. 

Beach  &  Co.,  Hartford,  137. 

Bear  Flag,  71. 

Bear  Lake,  Utah,  834,  835,  195. 

Bear  River,   Utah,  834,   835,  836, 

194. 

Bear  State,  61. 

Bear's  Tooth  Mt.,  Mont.,  513. 
Bear  Valley  Dam,  85. 
Beaver  City,  Okla,  696. 
Beaver  Head  Rock,  Mont.,  512. 
Beaver  Tail   Light-House,   R.  I., 

769. 

Beaufort,  N.  C.,  647,  649. 
Beaufort,  S.  C.,  788,  781,  784,  787. 
Bedford  Springs  Penn.,  719,  720. 
Bedloe's  Island,  N.  J.,  558. ' 
Bee  Building,  Omaha,  527. 
Bee-Hive  House,  Utah,  835. 
Beet  Sugar,  524. 
Beet  Sugar  Factory,  Cal.,  82. 
Belding,  Mich.,  417. 
Belding  Bros.  &  Co.,  136,  378,  418, 

Belk4offski,3Alaska,  45. 


Belle  Meade,  Tenn.,  800. 

Bellows  Falls,  Vt.,  840,  845. 

Bell's  Rock  Light,  Va.,  24. 

Bell  Tower,  Augusta,  Ga.,  178. 

Bell  Buoy,  24. 

Belmont  County  C.  H.,  Ohio,  665 

Belmont  School,  94. 

Belo,  Col.  AH.,  826. 

Beloit  College,  Wis.,  896. 

Belts,  692. 

Belvedere,  Central  Park,  580. 

Bemis  Bro.  Bag  Co.,  457,  530. 

Ben  Hur,  574. 

Bennington  Mon't,  Vt.,  842,  840. 

Bennett,  James  Gordon,  626. 

Benton,  Fort,  Mont. ,518,  519,509, 

Benton,  T.  H.,  443. 

Benton  Statue,  445. 

Berea  College,  Ky.,  284. 

Berea  Ohio,  669. 

Bering  Sea,  45,  46,  52. 

Bering  Strait,  Alaska,  46. 

Berkeley,  Va.,  853. 

Berkeley,  Cal.,  96. 

Berkeley  Divinity  School,  Conn., 

126. 

Berkeley  Springs,  W.Va.,  88 1,  882. 
Berkeley,  Univ.  of  Cal.,  gi,  93,  96. 
Berkshire,  346,  345. 
Berwind-White  Co.,  723. 
Bessemer,  Ala.,  38. 
Bessemer,  Penn.,  748. 
Bethany  College,  W.  Va.,  883. 
Bethesda  Springs,  Wis.,  890,  891. 
Bethlehem,  Penn.,  735. 
Bethlehem  Iron  Co. 's  Works,  747. 
Bexley  Hall,  Gambier,  O.,  672. 
Bible  Institute,  111.,  210. 
Bicycles,  140. 
Bid  well,  Fort,  Cal.,  92. 
Big  Bend  Country,  868. 
Big  Lands,  Neb.,  523. 
Big-Horn  Range,  905. 
Big  Sioux  Valley,  790,  791,  794. 
Big  Springs,  Texas,  816. 
Big  Stone  Lake,  420,  792,  423. 
Big  Trees,  Cal.,  75,  89,  91. 
Big  Woods,  Minn.,  422,424. 
Billings  Library,  Vt..  843,  846. 
Billings  &  Spencer  Co.,  139. 
Biloxi,  Miss.,  438,  440. 
Binder-Twine,  388. 
Binghamton,  N.  Y.,  603. 
Bird  Seed,  231. 
Birmingham,  Ala.,  35,  33. 
Biscuits,  230. 

Bismark,  N.  D.,  658,  666,  655,  659. 
Bismark  Bridge,  N.  D.,  656. 
Bissell  Carpet-Sweeper  Co.,  418. 
Bitter  Root  Mts.,  512,  518,  194. 
Bitter  Root  Valley,  Mont.,  515. 
Bituminous  coal  held,  722. 
Bivouac  of  the  Dead,  274. 
Black  Belt,  Ala.,  30,  31. 
Black  Canon,  Ariz.,  56. 
Black  Canon,  Col.,  106. 
Blackfoot,  Idaho,  198. 
Black  Hills,  791,  700,  792,  793,  794. 
Blacking,  758. 
Black  River   Ark.,  63. 
Black-Rock  Desert,  Nevada,   534. 
Blackwater  State,  522. 
Blackwell's  Island,  N.  Y.,  593. 
Bladensburg,  150. 
Bladon  Springs,  Ala.,  32. 
Blake,  (George  F.,)  Mfg.  Co.,  393. 


INDEX. 


Blatchford  &  Co.,  E.  W.,  228. 
Blatchford  Cartridge  Works,  228. 
Bleachery,  776. 
Bleeding  Kansas,  264. 
Blind  Asylum,  Bait.,  328. 
Block  Island,  R.  I.,  764,  766. 
Bloody  Canon,  Cal.,  74. 
Bloomsdale  Seed  Farm,  758. 
Blount  Springs,  Ala.,  32. 
Blowing  Cave,  Va.,  855. 
Blue  Grass,  280,  286. 
Blue  Grass  Pastures,  279. 
Blue  Hen's  Chickens,  144. 
Blue  Hills,    Mass.,   344,   346,   347, 

Blue  Laws,  119. 

Blue  Lick  Springs,  Ky.,  278. 

Blue  Mt.  Lake,  582. 

Blue  Mts.,  Ore.,  700. 

Blue  Ridge,  647,  651,  649,  855,  181, 

781,  782,  783. 

Bluffs  of  Mississippi,  255. 
Bluffton,  Ala.,  40. 
Board  of  Trade,  Chicago,  221. 
Board  of  Trade,  Little  Rock,  66. 
Bobet  Bros.  Stave  Yards,  298. 
Boerne,  Texas,  818. 
Boilers,  Insuring,  132. 
Boise  City,  Idaho,  198,  199. 
Bomoseen,  Lake,  Vt.,  842. 
Bonanza  Wheat  Farms,  656. 
Bonaventure  Cemetery,  188. 
Bond  paper,  389. 
Bonner,  Robert,  626. 
Bookbinders'  cloth,  632. 
Book  Cliffs,  Utah,  833. 
Book  News,  762. 
Book  of  Mormon,  833,  837. 
Boomer's  Home  in  Okla.,  695. 
Boomers'  Paradise,  694. 
Boone,  Daniel,  273,  286. 
Boone  Monument,  274. 
Boon-Island  Light,  318. 
Boonton  Nail  Works,  555. 
Boonton,  N.  J.,  556. 
Booth,  A.,  Packing  Co.,  229,  326. 
Boots  and  Shoes,  228. 
Borax,  88. 

Borax,  Nevada,  536. 
Border-Eagle  State,  439. 
Boston,  372,  339,  340,  343,  344,  347, 

349,  350,  351,  352,  353,  354,.  355- 
Boston  &  Bangor  Steamship  Co., 

319,  370. 

Boston  &  Col.  Smelter,  114. 
Boston   &    Lockport    Block   Co., 

397- 
Boston  &   Maine    Railroad,   318, 

543,  360. 

Boston  Art  Club,  363. 
Boston  Athletic  Association,  359. 
Boston  Belting  Co.,  382. 
Boston  Bridge  Works,  393, 129,544. 
Boston  Cathedral,  367. 
Boston  Cham,  of  Commerce,  347. 
Boston  City  Hospital,  350. 
Boston  Common,  349. 
Boston  C.  H.,  351. 
Boston  Harbor,  344. 
Boston  Herald,  371. 
Boston  Massacre,  343. 
Boston  Mts.,  Ark.,  62,  67. 
Boston  Museum  of  Fine  Arts,  394. 
Boston  Post-office,  351,  352. 
Boston  Public  Library,  362. 
Boston  Rubber  Shoe  Co.,  382. 
Boston  Theatre,  Mass.,  359. 


Boston  Y.  M.  C.  A.,  371. 

Botanical  Garden,  D.  C.,  160. 

Bottle  Glass,  564. 

Bowdoin  College,  Me.,  317. 

Bowen,  Henry  C.,  625. 

Bourbon,  Whisky,  291. 

Bowie,  Fort,  Ariz.,  57. 

Boxes,  391. 

Bozeman,  Mont.,  520,  519. 

Bradley  &   Hubbard    Mfg.    Co., 

J34,  635. 

Bradley  Fertilizer  Co.,  400,  173. 
Bradstreet  Co.,  614. 
Branding  Cattle,  Idaho,  198. 
Brandon,  Vt.,  845. 
Brandywine  River,  Del.,  144,  147. 
Brass  and  Iron  Fittings,  140. 
Brattleboro,  Vt.,  839,  842,  843,  845, 

848. 

Brazos  River,  815. 
Brazos  Santiago,  813,  822. 
Breckenridge,  Minn.,  423. 
Breslin,  James  H.,  621. 
Breweries,  900,  457. 
Brick  Making,  231,  399,  894,  644. 
Bridal  Veil  Falls,  Cal.,  75,  74. 
Bridge  over  the  Ohio,  Cairo,  203. 
Bridgeport,  Conn.,  130. 
Bridgeport  Wharf  Scene,  133. 
Bridger,  Fort,  Wyo.,  832,  903. 
.8,  750. 
,  561. 

mns  &  Co.,  338. 
Co.,  J.  G".,  755. 
Bristol,  R.  I.,  766,  768,  779. 
Britannia,  380,  135. 
Broad-Street  Station,  Phila.,  738. 
Broad  water.  Hotel,  Mont.,  514. 
Broadway  Theatre,  Denver,  113. 
Bronze  Doors,  163,  155. 
Brookings,  S.  D.,  793,  794. 
Brooklyn  City  Hall,  603. 
Brooklyn  Navy  Yard,  600. 
Brooklyn,  N.  Y.,  602,  577. 
Brother  Jonathan,  119,  7. 
Brown  (Alex.)  &  Sons,  Bait.,  335. 
Brown  &  Sharpe  Mfg.  Co.,  776. 
Brownell  Hall,  Omaha,  526. 
Brown,  Fort,  822. 
Brown,  John,  263,  343,  879',  882. 
Brown,  Julius  L.,  183. 
Brownsville,  Texas,  822,  813,  818. 
Brown's   Hoisting  &   Conveying 

Machine  Co.,  680. 
Brown's  Patent  Movable  Bridge 

Tramway,  680. 
Brown  University,  769. 
Brunswick,  Ga.,  189,  182,  180,  178. 
Brunswick,  Hotel,  375. 
Brunswick  Springs,  Vt.,  843. 
Brush-Making,  397. 
Bryn-Mawr  College,  728,  732. 
Bryn-Mawr  School,  331. 
Buchtel  College,  Ohio,  673. 
Buckeye  State,  665. 
Bucknell   University,  Penn.,  731, 

Budd's  Lake,  N.  J.,  553. 
Buena-Vista  Lake,  Cal.,  77. 
Buffalo,  603,  664,  586,  580,  628,  621, 

607,  631,  601,  201,  606. 
Buffalo  and  the  Niagara    River, 

608. 

Buffalo,  Bank  of,  613. 
Buffalo  City  Hall,  607. 
Buffalo  EXPRESS,  628. 
Buffalo,  Garden  City,  Kan.,  266. 


Buffalo  Library,  1599. 

Buffalo,  Music  Half,  599. 

Buffalo-Plains  State,  102. 

Bullene,  Moore,  Emery  &  Co.,  459. 

Bullion  State,  446. 

Bull  Run,  851. 

Bulwagga  Bay,  N.  Y.,  580. 

Bunker-Hill  Monument,  340,  342. 

Buoys,  24. 

Burgoyne,  579. 

Burkhardt  (A.  E.)  &  Co.,  689. 

Burlington,  Iowa,  261,  254. 

Burlington,  N.  J.,  561. 

Burlington  Route,  219. 

Burlington,  Vt.,  845,  840,  842,  843, 

846,  848. 

Burlington  Woolen  Mills,  847. 
Burnside  Statue,  766. 
Burnside's  Bridge,  322. 
Burr,  Aaron,  274,  664. 
Business  Men's  Association,  236. 
Butte  City,  519. 
Butte  Court-House,  519. 
Buttes  of  Columbia,  700. 
Buttons,  138. 
Buttonwoods,  R.  I.,  766. 
Buzzards  Bay,  347,  370. 

Cabinet  Gorge,Clarke's  Fork,  194. 

Cabin-John  Bridge,  153,  323. 

Cabot  Sheetings,  386. 

Cache  Valley,  Utah,  834,  836. 

Caddo  Camp,  Okla.,  695. 

Cadets'  Armory,  Boston,  349. 

Caesar's  Head,  S.  C.,  784. 

Caffery  Cen.  Sugar  Refinery,  305. 

Cairo,  111.,  216,  203,  218. 

Calaveras  Grove,  89. 

Calf-skins,  846. 

Calhoun,  John  C.,  781,  784. 

Calico,  777. 

California  :  historic,  69  ;  name, 
seal,  list  of  governors,  descrip- 
tive, 73  ;  climate,  80  ;  agricul- 
ture, 81  ;  mines,  86  ;  govern- 
ment, national  institutions,  91  ; 
education,  92  ;  newspapers, 
chief  cities,  95 ;  railroads,  in- 
surance, 98  ;  finance,  99  ;  map, 
464,  465. 

California  wheat,  82. 

Calipooia  Mts.,  Ore.,  700. 

Calistoga,  Cal.,  89. 

Calistoga  Petrified  Forest,  81. 

Calumet  &  Hecla  Mine,  410. 

Calumet  Club,  Chicago,  205. 

Calumet  Plantation,  La.,  303. 

Calvert  County  C.  H.,  41. 

Camas  Prairie,  Idaho,  194. 

Cambridge  City  Hall,  346. 

Cambridge  City  Library,  352. 

Cambridge,   Mass.,  373,  342,  343, 

Cambria  Iron  Works,  747,  761. 
Camden,  N.  J.,s6i. 
Camden,  S.  C.,  782,  783. 
Campbell,  Alexander,  879, 288, 884. 
Campbellites,  288. 
Campbell,  John  A.,  903. 
Camp  Supply,  Okla.,  696. 
Camulos,  Cal.,  78,  97. 
Canadian  River,  N.  M.,  570. 
Candles,  691. 
Canned  Goods,  229. 
Canoe  Valley,  Penn.,  718. 
Canon  City,  Col.,  108. 
Canon  de  Chelly,  Ariz.,  55. 


916 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 


Cantilever  Bridge, 
Cape-Ann  Granite  ' 


Cape-Cod  Canal,  370. 
Cape-Fear  River,  N. 


587,  607. 

:0.,  348. 


Cattle  in  Montana,  516. 
Cattle  Raising,  828. 
Cavalry  School,  270,  271. 
C.,  646,  647,  Cave  Dwellings,  Ariz.,  54. 
649.  Cave  in  the  Rock,  204. 

Cape  Horn,  Wash.,  868.  Cayuga  Lake,  N.  Y.,  585. 

Cape  May,  N.  J.,  554.  Cedar  Keys,  Fla.,  176. 

Capitol  Dome,  View  from,  151, 155.  Cedar  Rapids,  Iowa,  262. 
Capitol    Freehold   &    Investment  Celluloid  Co.,  566. 


Co.,  825,  821.  Cement-Mills,  289.  Chesapeake  Bay, 

Capitol,  The,  from  the  East,  155.     Cemetery  Walk,  New  Orleans^og.  Chester,  Perm.,  7- 
Capitol,  The  United-States,  154.       Centennial  State,  102.  Chestnut  Hill,  Mi 


Carbons,  69 
Card  Board,  779. 
Card  Clothing,  388. 
Car- Hard  ware,  226. 
Carleton  College,  Minn.,  428. 
Carlisle,  Penn.,  729,  713. 
Carlsbad,  Cal.,  89. 
Carmel  Bay,  Cal.,  90. 
Carmelo  Valley,  Cal.,  69,  79. 
Carnegie  Bros.  &  Co.,  748. 
Carnegie    Free     Library,    Penn. 

Carnegie,  Phipps  &  Co.,  749. 
Carpenters'  Hall,  Penn.,  711,  714. 
Carpets,  386,  399. 
Carpet  Sweepers,  418. 
Carquinez  Straits,  Cal.,  76. 
Carnage-Making,  682. 
Carriage  Malleable  Iron,  643. 
Cars,  417,  381,  681,  755. 
Carson  City,  Nevada,  536. 
Carson,  Kit,  567,  71,  568. 
Carson  River,  Nevada,  534. 
Cartridges,  134,  228. 
Carver,  Jonathan,  419,  424,  699. 
Casa  Grande,  Ariz.,  54,  53. 


Cheraw,  S.  C.,  784. 
Cherokee  Capitol,  251. 
Cherokee  Nat.  Female  Seminary, 

250. 

Cherokee  Orphan  Asylum,  250. 
Cherokee  Outlet,  696,  694. 
Cherokees,  250,  248,  795,  797,  177, 

178,  781,  27,  693,  645. 
Chesapeake  &  Del.  Canal,  148. 
Chesapeajke  Bay,  325, 145. 
39- 

Central  Music  Hall,  Chicago,  229.  Chestnut  Ridge,  Penn.,  718. 

Central  Pacific  R.  R.,  98.  Cheyenne,  908,  907. 

Central  R.R.Station,  Atlanta,  186.  Cheyenne  Camp,  Okla.,  694. 

Central  Tenn.  College,  804.  Cheyenne  Canon,  Col.,  108. 

Central  Trust  Co.,  614.  Cheyenne  Cave,  906. 

Centre  Market,  Charleston,  787.      Cheyenne  Station,  906. 

Centre  Market,  D.  C.,  151.  Chicago,  212. 

Centre  of  Population,  24.  Chicago    Anderson    Brick    Cos., 

Centre  of  the  Union,  265.  231. 

Chain  Belting,  692.  Chicago  &  Northwestern  R.  R., 

Chajn  Bridge,  Mass.,  343.  219,  218,  899. 

Chairs,  395.  Chicago,  Burlington  &  £)uincy  R. 

Chalcedony  Park,  Ariz.,  57.  R.,  219. 

Chalmette  Battle  Monument,  296.  Chicago,  cruiser,  23. 

Chalmette     National     Cemetery,  Chicago,  Crib,  202. 

297.  Chicago  Lake,  Col.,  105,  107. 

Chamber  of  Commerce,   Boston,  Chicago  Lumber  Company,  232. 

347.  Chicago,    Milwaukee  &   St. -Paul 


Chambersburg,  Penn.,  713. 
Chamita,  Old  Mill,  571. 


R.  R.,  221,  898,  899. 
Chicago  P.  0.,  220. 
Chicago  Public  Library,  210. 


Champlain,  340,  839. 

Champlain  Canal,  N.  Y.,  606.  Chicago  Shot  Tower,  228. 

Champlain,  Lake,  842,  578,  584,  840.  Chicago  Tribu 

Charitable  &  Correctional  Inst  ^' 


N.  Y., 

Charity  Hospital,  N.  O.,  310. 
Charles,  Lake,  La.,  295. 
Cascade  Mt.  and  "~ 

ley  Military  Wagon- Road   Co.,  Charleston,  College  of, 

Ore.,  700,  701.  Charleston,  cruiser,  23.  v^nnnowee  ivits.,  798,  t 

Cascade  Range,  700,  867.    '  Charleston   Mining  &   Mfg.  Co.,  Chillicothe,  Ohio,  664. 

Case  School  of  Applied  Science,     787. 


Cascades,  N.  C.,  651. 

Willamette- Val-  Charleston  Block,  Bessemer,  39. 


_  ne,  211. 

Chicago  University,  209. 
Chickahominy,  Va.,  854. 
Chickamauga,  178,  796. 
Chickasaws,  251,  437,  438,  27,  795. 
Chicopee,  Mass.,  163,  386,  374. 
Chief  Joseph,  200. 
Chilhowee  Mts.,  798,  802. 


673- 

Case(J.  I.)  &  Co.,  901. 
Cash-Carrying  Apparatus,  396. 
Casino,  Newport,  R.  I.,  766. 
Cass-County  C.  H.,  N.  D.,  656. 
Cass,  Lewis,  401. 
Casselton,  N.  D.,  659. 
Castalian  Springs,  Miss.,  440. 


Chilkat  Mission,  Alaska,  48,  49. 


Charleston,  S.  C.,  788,  782,  784,  783,  Chilkoot  Pass,  Alaska,  48. 


781. 

Charleston,  W.  Va.,884. 

Charlestown  Navy  Yard,  352. 

Charlotte,  N.  C.,  652,  654. 

Charter  Oak,  118. 

Charter-Oak  Race-Track,  129. 

Chase,  S.  P.,  661. 

Chatfield  &  Woods  Co.,  685. 

Chatham  Artillery,  Ga.,  186. 

Chatham-Co.  C.  H.,  Ga.,  182. 

Chattahoochee  River,  Ga.,  181 

Chattanooga  &   Lookout-Mt.    R.  Christian  Commission,  581.- 

R.,  806,  807.  Christians,  288. 

Cataract  Construction  Co.,  N.  Y.,  Chattanooga  Land,  Coal,  Iron  &  Chromo-Lithographs,  361,  690,  630, 

608.  Railway  Co.,  Tenn.,  807.  631. 

Catawba  Grapes,  667.  Chattanooga  Post-Office,  799.          Chronicle,  San  Francisco,  95. 

Catawba  Indians,  781.  Chattanooga,  Tenn.,  807,  806,  178,  Cimmaron,  696. 

Cathedral  Bluffs,  Col.,  106.  796,  798,  799,  801,  804,  809.  Cincinnati,  Ohio,  676,  663,  665,  674, 

Cathedral,  Phila.,  734.  Chauncy-Hall  School,  Boston,  358.      666,  668. 

Cathedral  of  St.  Patrick,  597,600.    Chautauqua  Lake,  N.  Y.,  585.          Cin.  Art  Museum,  674. 
Cathedral,  Providence,  772.  Chautauqua  University,  596.  Cin.  Chamber  of  Commerce,  678. 

Cathedral  Rock,  Col.,  109.  Chautauqua  University,Iowa,258.  Cin.  Cooperage  Co.,  685. 


Cast-Iron  Pipe,  565. 
Castle  Gate,  Utah,  832. 
Castleton,  Vt.,  842,  845,  840 
Castle  William,  N.  Y.,  603. 
Catalogues,  628. 
Catamount  Monument,  Vt.,  845 


Chilocco,  Okla.,  696. 
Chinamen,  72,  96,  24. 
Chincoteague,  Va.,  856. 
Chipeta  Falls,  Col.,  106. 
Chippewas,  888,  419,  427. 
Chiricahua  Mts.,  Ariz.,  55,  58. 
Chittenden  Memorial  Library,i25. 
Chocolate,  383. 

Choctaw  Nation,  I.  T.,  252,  27. 
Christ  Church,  Boston,  367. 
Christ  Church,  Phila.,  734. 


Cathedral,  St.  Augustine,  176. 
Cathedral  St.  Louis,  N.  O.,  207. 


Cheat  River,  W.  Va.. 
Chelan,  Lake,  Wash.,  871. 
Cathedral  Schools,  Garden  City,  Chelsea,  Mass.,  361,  344,  3! 


N.  Y.,  601. 
Cathedral  Spires,  73,  444. 
Catholic  Missions,  288. 
Catholic  University,  153,  154. 
Cats'  and  Dogs'  Home,  374,  368. 
Catskill-Mountain  House,  579. 
Catskill  Mts.,  584. 


Chemawa,  Ore.,  706. 
Chemical  Nat.  Bank,  6it. 
Chemicals,  760. 
Chemists,  418. 
Cheney  Bros.  Silk-Mills,  136. 


Cin.,  Hamilton  &  Dayton  Depot, 

678. 

Cin.  in  1808,  668. 
Cin.  Post-Office.  664. 
Cin.  Southern  R'y,  286. 
Citadel,  Charleston,  784,  788. 
Cities  of  100,000  population,  5. 
Cities  of  U.  S.,  25. 


Chequamegon  Bay,  Wis.,  891,886,  City  Hospital,  Boston,  350. 
899.  City  Nat.  Bank,  Dallas,  827 


Claflin  (H.  B.)  Co.,  637,  638. 

Claflin  University,  S.  C.,  785,  788. 

Claflin  (Wm.)  Coburn  &  Co.,  384. 

Claflin,  Wm.,  788,  384,  346. 

Clam-Bake,  766. 

Clarendon  Springs,  Vt.,  843. 

Clark,  Charles  F.,  615. 

Clarke  (N.  P.)  &  Co.,  426. 

Clarke's  Fork,  Mont.,  512. 

Clark,  Fort,  Texas,  822. 

Clark,  George   Rogers,  233,  285, 

401,  202,  203. 

Clarksburg,  W.  Va.,  882. 
Clarksville,  Tenn.,  804. 
Clark  University,  Atlanta,  188. 
Clark  University,  Mass.,  356. 
Clatsop  Beach,  Ore.,  704. 
Clay,  Henry,  273,  274,  281. 
Clearing-House,  N.  Y.,  609. 
Clear  Lake,  Cal.,  77. 
Clear  Lake,  Iowa,  255,  256. 
Cleaveland  Statue,  663. 
Cleopatra's  Bath,  909. 
Cleveland,  677,  672,  668,  671,  663, 

674. 

Cleveland  Lighthouse,  662. 
Cleveland     Soldiers'    Monument, 

663. 

Cleveland  P.  O.,  664. 
Cleveland  Pumping  Station,  667. 
Cleveland  Stone  Co.,  669. 
Cleveland  Viaduct,  679. 
Cliff-Dwellers,  Col.,  106,  116. 
Cliff  Walk,  Newport,  767. 
Clifton,  Ariz.,  58. 
Climate  of  U.  S.,  13. 
Clinch  River,  Tenn.,  799. 
Clocks,  633. 
Clothing,  227,  398. 
Cloud-Cap  Inn.,  Ore.,  699. 
Coaches,  546. 
Coal,  88,  722. 

Coal-Handling  Machinery,  623. 
Coal  Mining,  723,  724. 
Coast  Defence,  19. 
Coast  Marsh,  297. 
Coast  Range,  76,  699,  867. 
Coast  Survey,  158. 
Cocheco  Mfg.  Co.,  546. 
Cockade  State,  324. 
Cocoanuts,  168. 

Cod,  Cane,  339.  343,  346,  347,  349. 
Code,  Elfelt  &  Co.,  83. 
Cod  Fisheries,  350,  365. 
CcEur-d'Alcne  Lake,  196,  199,  200. 
Cceur-d'Alene    Mining    District, 

198. 

Coes  Wrench  Co.,  395. 
Coffee,  640. 
Coffee  Mills,  753. 

Cogswell  Polytechnic  College,  94. 
Cohoes,  N.  Y.,  603. 
Coke,  724. 

Coke  Ovens,  Ga.,  183. 
Colby  University,  Me.,  317. 
Colchester  Mills,  847. 
Cold-Pressed  Nuts,  753. 
Cold  Spring,  N.  Y.,  579. 
Colfax,  Iowa,  257. 
Colfax  Monument,  234. 
Colgate  &  Co.,  564.  • 

Colgate  University,  N.  Y.,  595. 
College    Hospital,     Minneapolis, 

425- 

College  of  New  Jersey,  558. 

College    of     Physicians    &    Sur- 
geons, 597. 


INDEX. 

College  of  the  City  of  N.  Y.,  595. 

Coloma,  Marshall  Statue,  71. 

Colorado  :  historic,  101 ;  name, 
State  arms,  list  of  governors, 
102  geography,  103 ;  climate, 
107  agriculture,  109  ;  mining, 
no  government,  education, 
in  railways,  112;  chief  cities, 
finance,  113  ;  smelting,  1 14  ;  map, 
466. 

Colorado  Chiquito,  Ariz.,  57,  56. 

Col.  Coal  &  Iron  Co.,  115. 

Colorado  Desert,  80,  81. 

Colorado,  Grand  Canon,  56,  834, 

Colorado  Plateau,  12,  56. 
Colorado  River,  13,  55,  106,  533. 
Colorado  River,  Texas,  815. 
Colorado  Springs,  102,  108. 
Colorado,  Steam  Frigate,  23. 
Colored  Schools,  Ala.,  33,  34. 
Colt's  Patent  Fire-Arms  Co.,  133. 
Columbia  Capitol,  871. 
Columbia  College,  N.  Y.,  596. 
Columbia,  Mouth  of  the,  700. 
Columbia  Plateau,  12. 
Columbian  University,  D.  C.,  153. 
Columbia  River,  Ore., 697,  698,  512, 

13,  702,  865,  869,  834. 
Columbia,  S.  C.,  788,  781,  782,  785. 
Columbia,  Tenn.,  806,  804. 
Columbus  Buggy  Co.,  682. 
Columbus,  Ga.,  179,  181. 
Columbus,  Ohio,  678. 
Columbus  Statue,  445,  737. 
Colville  River,  Alaska,  ~48. 
Comanches,  695. 
Comanche  Camp,  Okla.,  694. 
Commerce,  20. 
Commerce,  Nat.  Bank  of,  Kansas 

City,  455. 
Commerce,  Nat.  Bank  of, St. Louis, 

Commonwealth  Avenue,  375. 

Comstock  Lode,  Nevada,  535. 

Conanicut,  R.  I.,  769,  766. 

Concord  Asylum,  548. 

Concord  Harness,  N.  H.,  547. 

Concord,  Mass.,  342,  352. 

Concord,  N.  H.,  543,  541, -548. 

Concord  Railway  Station,  543. 

Condiments,  640. 

Coney  Island,  N.  Y.,  591,  601. 

Confectionery,  383. 

Congregational  Church,  Sioux 
City,  261. 

Congress,  16. 

Congressional  Library,  157,  151. 

Connecticut :  history,  116;  name, 
seal,  list  of  governors,  120;  to- 
pography,geology,i2i;  climate, 
agriculture,  government,  122 ; 
militia,  charities  and  correc- 
tions, 123;  National  works,  edu- 
cation, 124 ;  books  and  papers, 
127 ;  maritime  commerce,  rail- 
roads, 128  ;  chief  cities,  129;  in- 
surance, 130;  manufactures,  132; 
map,  467. 

Conn.  Capitol,  117,  123. 

Conn.  Mutual  Life  Ins.  Co.,  131. 

Connecticut   River,  346,  842,  540, 

121. 

Connellsville  Coke  Region,  724. 
Connellsville,  Penn.,  747. 
Conness,  Mount,  Cal.,  74. 
Conservatory,  White  House,  151. 


917 

Consol.  Kan.  City  Smelting  Co., 
268. 

Consol.  Stock  &  Petroleum  Ex- 
change, 610. 

Constitution,  6. 

Constitution,  frigate,  23,  317,  343. 

Continental  Hotel,  Phila.,  737. 

Continental  Ins.  Co.,  618. 

Contra-Costa,  Cal.,  76. 

Convent  of  Good  Shepherd,  308, 
428. 

Cook,  J.  W.  &  V.,  Salmon  Can- 
nery, Ore.,  703. 

Coolidge  Memorial  Library, 
Mass.,  352. 

Coolidge,  T.  J.,  355,  362. 

Cooperage,  685. 

Cooper's  Well,  Miss.,  440. 

Cooper  Union,  N.  Y.,  598. 

Coosa  River,  Ala.,  30. 

Coos  Bay,  Oregon,  702,  705. 

Copper,  138,  87,  122,410. 

Copper  implements,  885. 

Copper  River,  Alaska,  47,  51. 

Corals,  Fla.,  169. 

Corcoran  Gallery,  D.  C.,  160, 163. 

Cordage,  388. 

CordilTeran  States,  12. 

Corliss,  George  H.,  774. 

Corliss  Safe  Co.,  774. 

Corliss  Steam  Engine  Co.,  774. 

Corliss,  William,  774. 

Cornell  Road,  Ore.,  702. 

Cornell  University,  594. 

Corn  Palace,  Iowa,  258,  256. 

Cornwallis,  Lord,  850. 

Coronado,  53,  263,  521. 

Coronado  Beach,  Cal.,  87,  97. 

Coronation  Rock,  R.  I.,  765. 

Corpus  Christi,  Texas,  815,  818. 

Corvallis,  Oregon,  705. 

Cosack  &  Co.,  631. 

Coteau  des  Prairies,  427,  656, 423. 

Coteau  du  Grand  Bois,  422. 

Cotton,  386,  441. 

Cotton  Belt  Route,  68. 

Cotton-Buyers,  192,  808. 

Cotton  Cloth,  777. 

Cotton  Compressing,  810,  830. 

Cotton-Duck,  337. 

Cotton  Exchange,  Houston,  823. 

Cotton  Exchange,  Memphis,  799. 

Cotton  Exchange,  Mobile,  30. 

Cotton  Exchange,  N.  O.,  306. 

Cotton  Exchange,  N.  Y.,  610. 

Cotton-Factors,  808. 

Cotton-Field,  Miss.,  439. 

Cotton-Gins,  809,  438. 

Cotton-Machinery,  385. 

Cotton  Mfg.,  773,  545,  136,  788. 

Cotton-Plantation  State,  29. 

Cotton-Seed  Oil,  301,  809. 

Cottonwood  Canon,  833,  836,  837. 

Council  Bluffs  C.  H.,  261. 

Council  Bluffs  Post-Office,  261. 

Courant,  Hartford,  127. 

Courier-Journal,  Louisville,  284. 

Covenant  Cn.urch,  213. 

Cowboys  Nooning,  Idaho,  198. 

Cowpens,  S.  C.,  647,  782. 

Coyote  State,  790. 

Crabtree  Falls,  Va.,  856. 

Cradle  of  Liberty,  343- 

Cranberries,  555,  347. 

Cranberry  Grade,  880. 

Crane  &  Co.,  389. 

Crane  Co.,  225. 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 


918 

Crane  Library,  Quincy,  Mass., 362. 

Crane,  Z.  &  W.  M.,  390. 

Cranston,  R.  I.,  768. 

Crater  Lake,  Ore.,  699,  701. 

Creamery,  436. 

Creeks,  251,.  177, 178,  693,  27, 28, 166. 

Creoles,  295. 

Creole  State,  296. 

Crescent  Creamery  Co.,  436. 

Crescent  Springs,  Ark.,  60. 

Cresson,  George  V.,  752. 

Cresson  Springs,  719,  720. 

Creve-Co2ur,  111.,  202. 

Crocker  Art  Gallery,  Cal.,  95. 

Crockery,  232. 

Crompton  Loom  Works,  385. 

Crooked   River   Valley,   Oregon, 

701. 

Cross  Timbers,  I.  T.,  248. 
Cross  Timbers,  Texas,  816. 
Croton  Aqueduct,  N.  Y.,  608. 
Croton  Water  Works,  N.  Y.,  608. 
Crow  Indians,  Mont.,  518. 
Crown  Point,  N.  Y.,  839,  578,  582. 
Culebra  Range,  Col.,  104. 
Cumberland  Falls,  Ky.,  275. 
Cumberland   Gap,  275,    276,   278, 

283,  795. 

Cumberland  Island,  Ga.,  180. 
Cumberland   Mts.,  275,   795,  798, 

802,  803. 

Cumberland,  Md.,  335,  322. 
Cumberland  Plateau,  798,  797,  799, 

801,  802,  13. 

Cumberland  Presbyterians,  288. 
Cumberland  River,  799,  278,  795, 

804. 

Cumberland  Univ.,  Tenn.,  804. 
Cumberland  Valley,  718. 
Cunnjngham,  Col.  E.  H.,  820. 
Cunningham  (James),  Sons&  Co., 

642. 

Currecanti  Needle,  Col.,  109. 
Currituck  Sound,  648. 
Cushman  (Ara)  Co.,  320. 
Custom  House,  Charleston,  788. 
Custer,  Fort,  Mont.,  517. 
Custer,  Gen.,  789,  791. 
Custer,  Mont.,  510. 
Custer  Monument,  518. 
Custis  Mansion,  Va.,  855. 
Cut-glass  Table-ware,  757. 
Cutlery,  394. 

Cuyamarca  Mts.,  Cal.,  76. 
Cynthiana,  Ky.,286. 
Cypress  Point,  Cal.,  80. 

Bade  Monument,  174,  175. 

Dahlonega,  Ga.,  185. 

Dairy  Farm  in  Mont.,  516. 

Dairy  Products  of  U.  S.,  14. 

Dakotas,  419,  656. 

Dale-Creek  Bridge,  Wy.,  907. 

Dallas  City  Hall,  815. 

Dallas  C.  H.,  Tex.,  814. 

Dallas  News,  826. 

Dallas,  Texas,  824. 

Dalles  of  Wis.,  892,  886, 888,  890. 

Dalton,  Mass.,  389. 

Dam  and  Canal,  N.  M.,  574. 

Dana,  Charles  A.,  626. 

Dana,  Mount,  Cal.,  74. 

Dansville,  N.  Y.,  622. 

Danvers  Asylum,  Mass.,  388,  351. 

Danville,  Ky.,  283. 

Dare,  Virginia,  646. 

Darien,  Ga.,  189. 


Dark  and  Bloody  Ground,  275. 
Dartmouth  College,  N.  H.,  542. 
Dates,  83,  168. 
Davenport,    Iowa,   254,   261,   259, 

260. 

Davidson  College,  N.  C.,  653,  654. 
Davis  Island  Dam,  Penn.,  719. 
Davis  Peak,  Nev.,  535. 
Davis  (Perry)  &  Son,  780. 
Dayton,  Ohio,  678,  671,  664. 
Deadwood,  S.  D.,  790,  794,  793. 
Deaf  &  Dumb  Institution,  Mich., 

Deaf-Mute  College,  Nat.,  154. 

Dearborn,  Fort,  111.,  202,  218,  224. 

Dearborn  Observatory,  210. 

Death  Valley,  Cal.,  76. 

De  Bardeleben  Coal  &  Iron  Co., 
38,  39>  4°. 

Decatur,  Ala.,  40,  37,  30. 

Deep- Water  Bridge,  N.  C.,  647. 

Deep- Water  Harbors,  114,  815, 

Deerfield,  Mass.,  339,  342. 

Deer- Lodge  Valley,  Mont.,  514. 

Deer  Park,  Md.,  327,  326. 

Deer  Park,  Mont.,  512. 

De  Funiak  Springs,  173. 

De  Jonge  (Louis)  &  Co.,  632. 

De  Land,  Fla.,  173,  762. 

Delaware  :  history,  143  ;  name, 
arms,  list  of  governors,  144 ; 
descriptive,  agriculture,  145 ; 
government,  146  ;  national  in- 
stitutions, chief  cities,  147 ; 
manufactures,  148  ;  map,  468. 

Delaware  &  Hudson  Canal,  607. 

Delaware  Bay,  143,  144,  145,  709. 

Delaware  Breakwater,  147. 

Delaware  College,  147. 

Delaware  River,  718. 

Delaware  State  House,  143. 

Delaware  Water  Gap,  555,   718, 

De  la'  Warr,  Lord,  142,  143. 
Del  Monte,  Hotel,  Cal.,  78. 
Denison,  Texas,  824. 
Dennison  Mfg.  Co.,  391. 
Denny,  Hotel,  Seattle,  876. 
Dental  Mfg.  Co.,  759. 
Denver  &  Rio-Grande  R.  R.,  112. 
Denver  and  the  Rocky  Mts.,  115. 
Denver  Club,  112. 
Denver,  Col.,  115,  113,  116,  m. 
Denver  High  School,  112. 
Departmental  Stores,  398, 459,  689, 

762. 

De  Pauw  Glass  Works,  246. 
De  Pauw  University,  238, 239, 240. 
De  Pauw,  W.  C.,  Ind.,  239,  246. 
Depere,  Wis.,  886. 
Depew,  Chauncey  M.,  575,  616. 
Deseret,  832. 
Deseret,   University,    Utah,    835, 

837- 

Desert,  Mount,  Me.,  314, 313, 311. 
Desks,  245. 

Des  Moines,  Iowa,  261,  260. 
Des  Moines  P.  O.,  260. 
Des  Moines  Rapids,  256. 
De  Soto,  795,   177,  59,  165,  27,  437, 

293- 

Detroit,  413,  414,  401. 
Detroit  City  Hall,  414. 
Detroit  Dry  Dock  Co.,  417. 
Detroit  Exposition  Building,  407. 
Detroit,  from  Windsor,  413. 
Detroit  House  of  Correction,  411. 


Detroit  Lake,  Minn.,  423. 

Detroit  Museum  of  Art,  413. 

Detroit  P.  O.,  406. 

Detroit  River,  Mich. ,405. 

Detroit-River  Tunnel,  416,  417. 

Detroit  Soldiers'   Monument,  414. 

Detroit  Y.  M.  C.  A.,  414. 

Devil's  Canon,  Cal.,  77. 

Devil's  Lake,  N.  D.,  657,  658,  660. 

Devil's  Lake,  Wis.,  888,  890. 

Devil's  Slide,  Utah,  833. 

Devil's  Thumb,  Alaska,  47. 

De  Young,  M.  H.,  95. 

Devoe  (F.  W.)  &  Co.,  635. 

Dexter  Horton  &  Co.,  707. 

Diablo,  Mount,  Cal.,  76,  88. 

Diamond  Match  Co.,  685. 

Diamond  Plate  Glass  Co.,  246. 

Diamond  State,  144. 

Dickinson,  (A.)  Co.,  230. 

Dickinson  College,  Penn.,  731. 

Diomede  Islands,  46. 

Disappointment,  Cape,  869,  871. 

Disciples  of  Christ,  288. 

Discovery  of  America,  5. 

Disston  (Henry)  &  Sons,  751. 

Distances  from  Washington,  154. 

Distilleries,  230,  292. 

District  of  Columbia:  history, 
149;  descriptive,  150;  Capitol, 
154;  State,  Treasury,  War 
dept.,  156  ;  Navy,  Interior,  Post- 
office  departments,  157  ;  monu- 
ments, 160-2  ;  newspapers,  164  ; 
map,  468. 

Ditson  (Oliver)  Co.,  399. 

Docks,  N.  Y.,  603. 

Dodge  (A.  M.)  &  Co.,  623. 

Dodge  Coal  Storage  Co.,  623,  754. 

Dodge  Mfg.  Co.,  243. 

Dogs'  Home,  374. 

Doll  &  Richards,  361,  360. 

Dome  of  the  Capitol,  151, 155. 

Dome  Rock,  Col.,  no. 

Donner  Lake,  Cal.,  76,  77. 

Dorchester,  383,  782. 

Dorflinger  (C.)  &  Sons,  757. 

Dorr  Rebellion,  764. 

Douglas-County  C.  H.,  Neb.,  523. 

Douglas-County  Hospital,  Neb.. 
524- 

Douglas  Island,  Alaska,  51,  49. 

Douglas  Monument,  203. 

Douglas,  S.  A.,  201. 

Douglas,  W.  &  B.,  141. 

Dover,  Del.,  147,  143. 

Dover,  N.  H.,  543,  546. 

Drake,  Sir  Francis,  69,  165,  646. 

Drew  Theol.  Seminary,  560. 

Drexel  Industrial  Institute,  734. 

Drift  Mining,  87. 

Drills,394. 

Drop-Forgings,  139. 


Druid-Hill  Park,  332. 
Drum-Lummon  Mine,  516. 
Drury  College,  Mo.,  451. 
Dry  Goods,  689,  637,  761,  227,  336, 

398. 

Dubuque,  Iowa,  253,  254,256,  261. 
Dudley  Observatory,  595. 
Duluth,  Minn.,  434,  425,  426,  419, 

401,  886. 

Duluth  Elevator  Co.,  888,  901. 
Dunkirk,  N.  Y.,  603. 
Dunlap  (R.)  &  Co.,  638. 
Dunmore,  Lake,  Vt.,  842. 


Dunnell  Mfg.  Co.,  777. 
Dunnellon  Co.'s  Phosphate  Beds, 

172,  173. 

DuPont  Statue,  162. 
Duquesne  Club,  721. 
Durfee,  B.  M.  C.,  High  School, 

Mass. ,  365. 

Durfee  Hall,  Yale,  125. 
Durham,  N.  C.,  648,  654. 
Durkee,  E.  R.,  &  Co.,  641. 
Dutch  Church,    Old,  Tarrytown, 

Dwight  Cotton  Mills,  386. 
D  wight  (John)  &  Co.,  640. 
Dwight,  Skinner  &  Co.,  137. 
Dyestuffs,  137. 
Dynamite  gun,  19. 

Eads  Bridge,  451,  750. 

Eads  Jetties,  La.,  294,299. 

Eagle,  American,  u. 

Eagle  Cliff,  N.  H.,  538. 

Eagle  Lake,  Cal.,  77. 

Eagle  Lake,  Me.,  313. 

Eagle  Pass,  Texas,  818. 

Earl  Crematory,  Troy,  590. 

Earle  (T.  K.)  Mfg.  Co.,  388. 

Earth-Moving,  682. 

Eastern  Penitentiary,  Penn.,  727. 

Eastern  Shore,  Md.,  326,  324. 

Eastern  Shore  of  Va.,  854,  856. 

Eastman,  Ga.,  190. 

Eastman,  Hotel,  Ark.,  63. 

Easton,  Eldridge  &  Co.,  100,  99. 

Easton,  Penn.,  730,  738,  735. 

Eastport,  Me.,  318. 

East-River    Bridge,    N.    Y.,  588, 

607, 148. 

East  Rock,  Conn.,  120,  121. 
East  Room,  White  House,  152. 
East  Seattle,  Wash.,  875. 
East  Tennessee,  798,  797. 
East-Tennessee,  Va.  &  Ga.  R.  R., 

809,  806,  41,  189,  190. 
Eaton,  Cole  &  Burnham  Co.,  140. 
Ecclesiastical  Art,  636. 
Echo  Bridge,  393. 
Echo  Canon,  Utah,  833,  832. 
Echo  Lake,  N.  H.,  538. 
Eckstein  White  Lead  Co.,  687. 
Eddy,  N.  M.,  574. 
Eddystone  Mfg.  Co.,  760. 
Eden  Park,  Bridge,  Cin.,  667. 
Edgar  Thomson  Steel  Works,  748. 
Edgartown,  Mass  ,  347. 
Edge   Moor   Bridge  Works,  148, 

6o7i  74°»  529- 
Education  in  U.  S.,  21. 
Education  of    Deaf    and  Dumb, 

123,  154. 

Edward,  Fort,  N.  Y.,  577. 
Eggs,  14. 
Egypt,  111.,  204. 
Eighth  Reg't  Armory,  581. 
El  Capitan,  Cal.,  74. 
El  Dorado,  71,  73. 
El  Dorado  Canon,  Nev.,  533. 
Electors,  16. 

Electrical  Apparatus,  379. 
Electric  Lighting,  691.- 
Electric  Springs,  Ark.,  64. 
Electric  Street  Railway,  379. 
Electro-Plated  Ware,  380. 
Elevators,  392,  433,  900. 
Elevators,  Buffalo,  608. 
Elk  Mts.,  Col.,  104. 
Ellensburgh,  Wash.,  868. 


INDEX. 

Ellis  Island,  25,  602. 

Elmira,  N.  Y.,  603. 

Elmira  Reformatory,  N.  Y.,  592. 

El-Paso  Cathedral,  812. 

El  Paso  de  Robles,  89. 

El  Paso,  Texas,  813,  825. 

Embargo,  6. 

Emery,  653. 

Emery  Candle  Co.,  691. 

Emery  Wheels,  140. 

~    '  ~          Id 


Emigrant  Team,  Idaho,  194. 
Emory  College,  Ga.,  187. 
Empire  State   582. 
Empire  State  of  the  South,  179. 
Emporia  Normal  School,  271. 

Engineers,  Battalion  of,  600.  - »  ^«,M  ^ 

Engineer   School  of  Application,  Farallones,  Cal.,  91,  78. 

600.  Fargo,  N.  D.,  656,  659,  660. 

Engines  and  Boilers,  338.  Fanbault,  Minn.,  426,  428. 

English  High  &  Latin  School,  Bos-  Farm  and  Fireside,  675,  676. 

ton,  356,  357.  Farm  and  Home,  372. 

Engraving,  628, 


919 

Fairfax  Court  House,  Va.,  853, 

852. 

Fair  Grounds,  St.  Louis,  450. 
Fairmount  College,  Wichita,  265. 
Fairmount  Park,  Phila.,  737. 
Fairmount  Water-Works,  Phila., 

Fall  River  City  Hall,  347. 

Fall  River,  Mass.,  374,  347,  357. 

Fall  River  P.  O.,  347. 

Falls  of  Minnehana,  Minn.,  423. 

Falls  of  the  Ohio,  277. 

Falls  View,  Mich.   Cent.  R.  R., 

587. 

Fan  Blower,  381. 
Faneuil  Hall,  Boston,  340,  343. 


Engraving  and  Printing,  Bureau 

of,  158. 
Enoch-Pratt    Free    Library,  331 

329- 

Enquirer,  Cin.,  675. 
Enterprise  Mfg.  Co.,  753. 
Ephrata,  Penn.,  735. 
Epileptic  Hospital,  351. 
E  Pluribus  Unum,  n. 
Episcopal  Hospital,  Phila.,  725. 
Episcopal  Theol.  School,  355. 
Equality  State  904. 


Farmers'    Tobacco     Warehouse, 

280. 

Farming  in  Arkansas,  61. 
Farming  in  the  U.  S.,  13. 
Farmington  River,  121. 
Farm  Mortgages,  614. 
Farm  Scene,  Indiana,  234. 
Farm  Wagons,  289. 
Farragut  Statues,  161,  162,  576. 
Fay  (J.  A.)  &  Co.,  686. 
Federal  Courts,  16. 
Feeble-minded  children,  207. 
Fenians,  582,  841. 


Equitable  Building,  St.  Louis,  454.  Fernandina,  Fla.,  176,  175,  188. 
Equitable  Life- Assurance  Society,  Ferry  at  Shoshone  Falls,  197. 
617,  370.  Ferry,  D.  M.,  &  Co.,  406. 

.-t.,-  ™._. ^_     *.  Fertilizers,  400,  785,  787. 

Fessenden,  Wm.  Pitt,  311. 
Fidelity  Ins.  Safe-Deposit  Co., 

Field  (Albert)  Tack  Co.,  395. 
Field  (Marshall)  &  Co.,  227. 
Fifth-Avenue  Hotel,  620,  621. 


Equitable  Mortgage  Co.,  614. 
Erie  Canal,  604. 
Erie-Canal  Locks,  636. 
Erie  Central  School,  Penn.,  731. 
Erie,  Lake,  666,  667,  661. 
Erie,  Penn.,  739,  714,  727. 
Erie  Triangle,  Penn.,  719. 
Escanaba,  Mich.,  410. 
Eskimos,  46,  50. 
Essex,  Col.  Thomas,  66. 
Estes  Park,  Col.,  109,  in. 
Estey  Organ  Co.,  848. 
Eureka,  Cal.,  97. 
Eureka  Springs,  Ark.,  64. 
Evanston,  111.,  209. 
Evanston,  Wy.,  908. 
Evansville,  C.  H.,  235. 
Evansville,  Ind.,  238. 
Evansville  P.  O.^s. 
Evening  Post,  N.  Y.,  625. 
Evening  Star  Building,  D.  C.,  164. 
Everglade  State,  167. 
Everglades,  The,  Fla.,  170,  166. 
Ewart  Detachable  Link-Belt,  754. 
Executive  Mansion,  152. 
Executive   Mansion,  Harrisburg, 

718. 

Exeter,  N.  H.,  537,  542,  543. 
Exports,  17. 

Exposition  Building,  Cin.,  675. 
Exposition,  Milwaukee,  894. 
EXPRESS,  BUFFALO,  628. 
Express  Offices,  620. 
Eye-Glasses,  637. 

Faience,  675, 

Fairbanks,  Erastus,  848,  842. 
Fairbanks  family,  847,  846. 
Fairbanks,  Horace,  842,  846. 
Fairbanks,  Thaddeus,  847,  846. 


Figs,    3. 

Fifing  Cabinets,  684. 

Finances  of  N.  Y.,  609. 

Finances  of  the  Union,  20. 

Findlay,  Ohio,  670,  668. 

Fine  Arts,   Academy  of,   Phila., 

734,  73°- 

Finns,  427. 

Fire  Dances,  N.  M.,  574. 

Fire-Insurance,  N.  Y.,  618 

Firelands,  Ohio,  662,  664. 

Fireman's  Fund  Insurance  Co.,  98. 

First  Baptist  Church,  Providence, 
767. 

First  House,  Lincoln,  522. 

First  National  Bank:  Birming- 
ham, 42  ;  Chicago,  222  ;  Cin., 
679  ;  Concord,  544  ;  Denver,  114, 
1143  Detroit,  415;  Helena,  520  ; 
Little  Rock,  66;  Minneapolis, 
434;  New  York,  611;  Phila., 
744  ;  Portland  (Ore.),  706. 

First  Passenger  Coach  on  B.  &  O. 
R.  R.,  324. 

First  Reg't  Armory,  Chicago,  213. 

First  Reg't  Armory,  Phila.,  717. 

First  Reg't  Armory,  Portland, 
Ore.,  706. 

Fish  Commission,  354. 

Fisheries,  365. 

Fisk  (D.  B.)  &  Co.,  227. 

Fisk  University,  Tenn.,  803,  804. 

Fitchburg  Library,  373. 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 


Five  Nations,  117,  575. 

Fixtures,  634. 

Flags,  11,4. 

Flags  of  Signal  Service,  21. 

Flannels,  387. 

Flathead  Lake,  Mont.,  518,  513. 

Flattery,  Cape,  866,  870,  875. 

Fleischmann  &  Co.,  690. 

Fletcher,  Charles,  772. 

Florence,  Ala.,  39. 

Florence,  Col.,  m. 

Florence,  Idaho,  199. 

Florence  Land,  Mining  &  Mfg. 
Co.,  40. 

Florida :  history,  165  ;  name, 
arms,  list  of  governors,  descrip- 
tive, 167  ;  climate,  170;  geology, 
172 ;  government,  education, 

•  173  ;  national  works,  174  ;  chief 
cities,  175 ;  railroads,  steam- 
boats, 176 ;  map,  469. 

Florida  Agric.  College,  170,  174. 

Florida  Bicycle  A,  170. 

Florida  Fruits,  166. 

Florida  Keys,  168. 

Florida  State  House,  165,  173. 

Florida  University,  174. 

Flour-Manufacturing,  430,  432. 

Flour-Mill  Machinery,  244. 

Fobes,  Hay  ward  &  Co.,  384. 

Folsom,  Cal,  91. 

Fond  du  Lac,  Wis.,  899. 

Food-Preparations,  5-45,  639,  640. 

Foot-hills,  Col.,  103. 

Forbes  Lithograph  Mfg.  Co.,  362, 
361. 

Forefathers'  Monument,  n,  341. 

Foreign-Mission  -Movement,  364. 

Forest  Park,  St.  Louis,  446. 

Forests,  Ark.,  61. 

Forsyth,  James  Bennett,  382. 

Fort- Bragg  Redwood  Co.,  90. 

Fort  Smith,  Ark.,  62,  64,  65. 

Fort  Wayne,  P.  O.,  235. 

Fort  Worth,  Texas,  815,  824. 

Foulweather,  Cape,  Ore.,  704. 

Fountain,  Savannah,  186. 

Fountain  Spring  House, Wis.,  891. 

Four  Courts,  St.  Louis,  446. 

Fourth  Nat.  Bank,  612. 

Fox  Lake,  111.,  205. 

Fox  River,  Wis.,  892,  886. 

Franconia  Notch,  N.  H.,  539. 

Frankford  Arsenal,  Penn.,  728. 

Frankfort,  Ky.,  283,  286. 

Franklin,  Benjamin,  5. 

Franklin  Co.  C.  H.,  Ohio,  666. 

Franklin  Institute,  Phila.,  734. 

Franklin  Park,  Boston,  349. 

Franklin's,  Benjamin,  Grave,  710. 

Franklin,  State  of,  796. 

Frederick,  Md.,  322,  323,  327,  334. 

Fredencksburg,  Va.,  851. 

Freedom,  Statue  of,  161,  155. 

Free  Public  Forest,  349. 

Freezers,  548. 

Fremont,  53,  71,  831,  835,  531. 

rremont  Pass,  Col.,  104,  113. 

French  Broad  River,  798,  799,  650, 
649. 

French  Canadians,  366. 

French  Market,  N.  O.,  298. 

Frick  (H.  C.)  Coke  Co.,  724. 

Friedensville,  Penn.,  725,  746. 

Friends'  Boarding  School,  770. 

Frontenac,  Minn.,  423. 

Front  Range  Col.,  103,  105,  905. 


Fruit  of  the  Loom,  777. 

Fruits,  83. 

Fryeburg,  Me.,  312,  314. 

Fuca,  Juan  de,  865. 

Fuca,  Strait  of,  86g,  865,  875. 

Fuller  &  Warren  Co.,  644,  902. 

Fundamental   Constitutions,   746, 

782. 

Furniture,  400,  684. 
Furs,  638,  689,  448. 

Gadsden  Purchase,  54. 
Gage-County  C.  H.,  Neb.,  528. 
Gainesville,  Fla.,  174,  172. 
Galena,  111.,  206,  218. 
Gallatin  Valley,  Mont.,  512. 
Gallaudet,  Dr.  T.  H.,  123. 
Gait  House,  Louisville,  286. 
Galveston,  822,  813,  815. 
Galveston  Beach,  818. 
Galveston  City  Hall,  825. 
Galveston,  Cotton  Exchange,  819. 
Galveston  News,  826. 
Galveston  P.  O.,  819. 
Garden  City,  Kan.,  266. 
Garden  City,  N.  Y.,  597,  601. 
Garden  of  the  Gods,  108,  106. 
Garden  State,  551. 
Garfield  Beach,  Utah,  833, 834,  835. 
Garfield  Monuments,  674,  162. 
Garrett  Biblical  Institute,  209, 204. 
Garrison  (A.)  Foundry  Co.,  752. 
Gas  and  Electric  Lights,  634. 
Gas-Coal,  723. 
Gasconade  River,  Mo.,  447. 
Gasoline  Burners,  755. 
Gaston,  Fort,  Cal.,  92. 
Gate  of    the  Mountains,   Mont., 

513,  512. 

Galling  Guns,  133. 
Gayarrc*  Place,  N.  O., 
Gay  Head,  Mass.,  347. 
Gen.  Theol.  Sem.,  596. 
Genesee  Falls,  N.  Y.,  587,  589. 
Genesee  River,  N.  Y.,  585. 
Geneva  Lake,  Wis.,  800. 
George,  Lake,  N.  Y.,  578,584/577. 
Georgetown,  D.  C.,  152. 
Georgetown,  S.  C.,  784,  788,  782. 
Georgetown,  Texas,  817. 
Georgetown    University,   D.    C., 

Georgia :  History,  177 ;  name, 
arms,  list  of  governors,  geo- 
graphy, 179  ;  climate,  farming, 
182  ;  geology,  minerals,  183 ; 
government,  185  ;  national  in- 
stitutions, newspapers,  186;  edu- 
cation, 187;  chief  cities,  188 ; 
railroads,  190 ;  finances,  191  ; 
manufactures,  192  ;  map,  470. 

Georgia-Ala.  Investment  &  De- 
velopment Co.,  191. 

Georgia  Capitol,  177,  185. 

Georgia  Marble  Co.,  184. 

Ga.  Mining,  Mfg.  &  Investment 
Co.,  183. 

German  Opera  House,  224. 

Gethsemane  Abbey,  288. 

Gettysburg  Monuments,  715. 

Gettysburg,  Penn.,  713. 

Geysers,  Cal.,  89. 

Geysers,  Wyo.,  909,  911. 

Giant  of  the  Valley,  582. 

Giant  Spring,  Mont.,  513. 

Gianls'  Cave,  Utah,  833'  835. 

Giant  Yucca,  Ariz.,  55. 


3«7- 


Gibbon  Falls,  Wyo.,  909. 
Gibson,  Fort,  I.  T.  248. 
Gifford,  Ellen  M.,  Home  for  Cats 

and  Dogs,  374. 

Gila  Valley,  Ariz.,  56,  55,  57,  14. 
Gilpin,  Win.,  116. 
Gilsey  House,  N.  Y.,  621. 
Ginseng,  652,  881. 
Girard-Ave.  Bridge,  716. 
Girard  College,  Phila.,  731,  733. 
Girard  Life-Insurance,  Annuity  & 

Trust  Co.,  745. 
Girls'    Industrial    College,    Miss., 

441. 

Glacier  Canon,  534. 
Glaciers,  Alaska,  49,  47,  48. 
Glass,  246,  564,  757,  746,  191. 
Glassboro,  N.  J.,  565. 
Glass-Sand,  348. 
Glendive,  Mont.,  519. 
Glen-Ellis  Falls,  N.  H.,  54i. 
Glens  Falls,  N.  Y.,  587. 
Glenwood  Springs,  Col.,  108,  113, 

Globe  Co.,  The,  684. 

Gloucester,    Mass.,   373,   348,  352, 

365^ 

Goat  Island,  N.  Y.,  586. 
Godkin,  E.  L.,  625.  " 
Gogebic  Range,  Wis.,  894,  410. 
Golden  Gate,  78,  87,  95. 
Golden-Gate  Park,  Cal. ,97, 96,  72. 
Golden  State,  73. 
Gold  Mining,  Cal.,  86. 
Goldsborough,  N.  C.,  648,  654,  653. 
Goose  Lake,  Cal.,  77. 
Gopher  State,  421. 
Gorges,  Fort,  Me.,  316. 
Gorham  Mfg.  Co.,  775,  635. 
Gorham,  N.  H.,  548. 
Government     Building,     Omaha, 

528. 

Government  Mill,  Dalton,  380. 
Government  of  U.  S.,  16. 
Government  Printing  Office,  158. 
Government   Street,    Mobile,   30, 

Governor's  Island,  N.  Y.,  600,  603. 

Gosnold,  340. 

Grace  Church,  Anniston,  37. 

Grain  Drills,  683. 

Granby,  Conn.,  122. 

Grand  Army  of  the  Republic,  208. 

Grand  Canon    of   the  Arkansas, 

103,  106,  116. 
Grand  Canon  of  the  Colorado,  ^3, 

55,  56,  834,  835. 
Grand  Canon  of  the  Rio  Grande, 

814. 

Grand  Central  Station,  619. 
Grand  Forks,  N.  D.,  656,  660,  659. 
Grand  Island,  Neb.,  525,  526. 
Grand  Opera  House,  Pueblo,  116. 
Grand  Prairie,  111.,  204. 
Grand  Rapids  City  Hall,  405. 
Grand  Rapids,  Mich.,  414,  418. 
Grand  Rapids,    Soldiers'    Home. 

409. 

Grand  River,  835,  106. 
Grand  River  Canon,  105. 
Granite,  315,  348,  427,  548. 
Granite  Mountain,  Mont.,  516. 
Granite  State,  N.  H.,  538. 
Grant,  Birthplace  of  U.  S.,  662. 
Grant,  James  B.,  114. 
Grant  Monument,  17. 
Grant  Statue,  Leavenworth,  264. 


Grape- Fruit,  172. 
Grapes,  84,  652. 
Grass  Crop,  14. 
Grass  Valley,  Cal.,  97. 
Gray's  Harbor,  865,  869. 
Gray's  Peak,  Col.,  102,  103,  104. 
Great  Basin,  12,  701,  834,  733. 
Great  Falls  Mfg.  Co.,  546. 
Great  Falls,  Md.,  326. 
Great  Falls,   Mont.,  514,  511,  509, 
513- 


INDEX. 

Hardware,  226. 
Harness-making,  547. 
Harney,  Lake,  7oo. 
Harney  Valley,  Ore.,  701. 
Harper  &  Brothers,  629. 
Harper  Hospital,  Detroit.  411. 


Great  Falls,  N.  H.,  546. 
"   :rn     Rail 

436,660,878. 


Great    Northern     Railway,    435, 


Great  Pacific  Glacier,  47. 
Great  Plains,  12,  13,  103,  817,  905. 
Great  Red  Pipestone  Quarry,  427. 
Great  Salt  Lake,  831,  832,833,  834, 

837,  12. 
Great  Smoky  Mts.,  798,  806,  649. 


Great  Valley,  Cal.,  77,  73,  81. 
ireat 
874: 


Great  Western  Iron   &  Steel  Co., 


Greek  Church,  50,  49,  45. 
Green  Bay,  Wis.,  886,  892. 
Greenbrier    White     Sulphur 

Springs,  W.  Va.,  88 1. 
Greenhorn  Range,  Col.,  104. 
Green  Lake,  Col.,  107. 
Green  Lake,  Wis.,  890. 
Greenleaf,  Col.  C.  H.,  375,541. 
Greco-Mountain  Boys,  839. 
Green-Mountain  State,  841. 
Green  Mts.,  Vt.,  840,  842. 
Green  River,  Utah,  837,  835. 
Green  Wood  Cemetery,  N^Y.,  603, 

599- 

Greenwood  Lake,  N.  J.,  553,   557. 
Greer  County,  695. 
Greylock,  Mass.,  345,  346. 
Grimes,  James  W.,  253. 
Grinding  Machines,  140. 
Grindstones,  407,  669. 
Grinnell      Sensitive      Automatic 

Sprinkler,  778. 
Groceries,  639,  229. 
Groton,  Conn.,  120. 
Guadalupe  Mts.,  817. 
Guaranty,  Loan  Building,  430. 
Gumbel  (S.)  &  Co.,  301. 
Gun- Factory,  N.  Y.,  600. 
Gunnison  River,  Col.,  105. 
Gunpowder,  133,  148. 
Gun-steel,  748. 
Gunther's  (C.  G.)  Sons,  638. 
Gurley,  W.  &  L.  E.,  637. 
Guthrie,  Okla.,  693,  694. 
Gypsum  Hills,  Kan.,  265,  266. 

Haddam,  Conn.  River,  121,  122. 
Hadley,  Mass.,  119. 
Hagerstown,  Md.,  335. 
Hahn  mann  Med.  College,  739. 
Haines,  Alaska,  48. 
Half  Dome,  Cal.,  74. 
Halifax  River,  Fla.,  176. 
Hall's  Safe  &  Lock  Co.,  683. 
Hamburg,  S.  C.,  783,  788. 
Hamilton-Brown  Shoe  Co.,  459. 
Hamilton  College,  N.  Y.,  595. 
Hamilton-Co.  C  H.,  Ohio,  665. 
Hamilton,  Mount,  Cal.,  93,  76. 
Hampton  Roads,  Va.,  856,  858. 
Hampton,  St.  John's,  852,  853. 
Hannibal,  Mo.,  454. 
Hanover  Nat.  Bank,  613. 
Haraszthy  (Arpad)  &  Co.,  85,  84. 


,, 

Harriman,  Tenn.,  799,  801. 
Harrisburg,  Penn.,  726,738. 
Harrison,  Benjamin,  853. 
Harrison  Bros.  &  Co.,  760. 
Harrison-Co.  C.  H.,  Tex.,  823. 
Harrodsburg,  Ky.,  286. 
Hartford,  129,  130. 
Hartford  Asylum,  Conn.,  123. 
Hartford  County  C.  H.,  132. 
Hartford  Courant,  127,  128. 
Hartford  Fire  Insurance  Co.,  130. 
Hartford  High  School,  127. 
Hartford   Steam  Boiler  Ins.  Co., 

132. 

Hartford  Theol.  Sem.,  126. 
Hartshorn  Shade  Rollers,  566. 
Harvard  Annex,  355. 
Harvard  Bridge,  Mass.,  344,  393. 
Harvard  University,  354,  353,  355, 

Harvesting  Machines,  643. 
Haseltine  Art  Galleries,  762. 
Haskell  Institute,  Kan.,  268. 
Hastings  College,  529. 
Hastings  Hall,  Cambridge,  368. 
Hats,  337,  338,  339,  ?6i. 
Haverford  College,  Penn.,  731. 
Haverhill,  Mass.,  374,  342,  346. 
Havre  de  Grace  Bridge,  323. 
Hawkeye  State,  255. 
Hawk's  Nest,  W.  Va.,  883. 
Hawthorne's  Birthplace,  342. 
Hay,  14. 

Hayden,  Mount,  520. 
Hebrews,  368. 

Heights  of  Land,  Minn.,  422. 
Helderberg  Mts.,  584. 
Helena,  Ark.,  67. 
Helena  High  School,  515. 
Helena,  Mont.,  520,  518. 
Hell's  Half  Acre,  Ark.,  60. 
Henderson  Bridge,  291., 
Henlopen  Cape,  Del.,  144,  145,  147. 
Hennepin,  202. 
Henry  Clay  Monument,  274. 
Henry  Lake,  Idaho,  196. 
Henry,  Patrick,  26. 
Herald,  New  York,  626. 
Herd  of  Bison,  248.  « 

Hermitage,  The,  Tenn.,  797. 
Herreshoff  Works,  777. 
Hetch-Hetchy  Valley,  82,  74. 
Heywood  Bros.  &  Co.,  395. 


921 

Hill  (James  R.)  Harness  Co.,  547 
Hill,  Nathaniel  P.,  114. 
Hill  (B.  H.)  Statue,  19o. 
Hillsdale  College,  411 
Hippopotamus  Rock,  905. 
Hiram  College,  Ohio,  672,  673. 
Historical  Map,  10. 
Hitchcock  Memorial  Hospital,  s-n 
Hoboken,  N.  J.,  560,  561. 
Hoffman,  Mount,  Cal.,  74. 
Hog  and  Hominy  State,  797. 
Hoisting  Machines,  680. 
Hollenden,  Hotel,  Cleveland,  677. 
Holly  Springs,  Miss.,  442. 
Holston  River,   798,  786,  799,  801. 
Holy  Cross,  Mt.  of  the,  io4. 
Holyoke,  City  Hall,  364. 
Holyoke,  Mass,,  389. 
Holyoke,  Mt.,  Mass.,  345,  346. 
Homestake  Mines,  791. 
Homestead  Steel  Works,  74g. 
Homosassa  River,  Fla.,  169. 
Honey,  86. 

Honey  Lake,  Cal.,  77. 
Hood,  Mount,  Ore.,  699,  700,  13. 
Hood's  Canal,  Wash.,  869. 
Hoopa  Valley,  Cal.,  92. 
Hoopes  &  Townsend,  753. 
Hoosac  Tunnel,  Mass.,  346,   368, 

369- 

Hoosier  State,  234, 
Hoosier  Stone  Co.,  Ind.,  240. 
Hopatcong  Lake,  N.  J.,  553,  552. 
Hope  College,  Mich.,  413. 
Hops,  893,  872. 
Horses,  281. 
Horse-Nails,  396. 
Horse-Plains,  Mont.,  511. 
Horse-Shoe  Curve,  713,  740. 


Horse-Shoes,  778. 

>f.     .  JN.,  340. 
Horticultural  Hall,  Phila.,  736. 


Horsford,  Prof.  E.  N., 


Hosiery,  639. 
Hotchkiss  Guns,  141. 
Hotel  Del  Monte,  Cal.,  78. 
Hotel  Eastman,  Ark.,  63,  64. 
Hotel  Metropole,  Col.,  113. 
Hotel  Rennert,  Baltimore,  334. 
Hot  Lake,  Ore.,  704. 
Hot  Springs,  Ark.,  63. 
Hot  Springs,  S.  D.,  792. 
Houghton,  Mich.,  411. 
Housatonic  River,  121. 
Houser  Building,  St.  Louis,  453. 
Houser,  Daniel  M.,  452,  453. 
Houston  &  Texas  Central  R.  R. 
827,  819,  817,  822, 


827,  819,   817,   822,  828. 

Houston,  P.  O.,  824. 

Houston,  Gen.,  811,  812,  813. 

Houston,  Texas.,  823,  824,  828. 

Hovenweep,  Col.,  i<>6. 

Hiawassee  River,  799.  Howard  College,  Ala.,  32,  34. 

Hibbard,  Spencer,  Bartlett  &  Co.,  Howard  Memorial  Library,  308. 

Howard  University,  D.  C.,  153. 

Howe's  Cave,  N.  ¥.,584. 

HudnutCo.,  245. 

Hudson,  Henry,  576,  549,  700. 

Hudson  Highlands,  N.  Y.,  579. 

Hudson,  N.  Y.,  603. 

Hudson  River,  585,  578,  599,  590. 
>n  P.,  68. 


Hickory-Nut  Gap,  N.  C.,  647. 
High  Bridge,  N.  Y.,  608,  588. 
Highgate  Springs,  Vt.,  843. 
High  Hills  of  Santee,  784. 
Highland  Lights,  Navesink,  551, 

Highland  Springs,  89. 
Highlands  of  Navesink,  N.  J., 

Highlands,  The,  556,  552,  584,  585. 
High  School,  Mobile,  32. 
High  School,  Montgomery,  42. 
Hill,  Fontaine  &  Co.,  808,  810. 


Hughes,  Simo 

Huguenots,  781. 

Hull,  Mass.,  344. 

Humboldt  Bay,  Cal.,  78. 

Humboldt  Mts.,  534. 

Humboldt  River,  Neva.,  531,  534, 

Humboldt  statue,  445. 


922 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE   UNITED   STATES. 


Humboldt  Valley,  Nev.,  534- 
Humphreys,  L.  H.,  772. 
Huntsville,  Ala.,  40. 
Huron,  Lake,  403. 
Huron,  Port,  Mich.,  414,  416. 
Huron,  S.  D.,  794. 
Hurst,  Purnell  &  Co.,  336. 
Hussey  &  Co.,  C.  G.,  751. 
Hutchinson,  Kan.,  269,  272. 
Hyde  Park,  Vt.,  846. 
Hydraulic  machinery,  141. 
Hydraulic  mining,  87,  184,  535. 
Hygeia  Hotel,  Va.,  858. 

Idaho  :  history,  name,  193  ;  arms, 
list  of  governors,  descriptive, 
194 ;  climate,  agriculture,  min- 
ing, 197,  government,  198  ;  map, 
471. 

Idaho  Springs,  Col.,  108,  in. 

Iliamna,  Alaska,  48. 

Illinois  :  history,  201  ;  name, 
arms,  list  of  governors,  203 ; 
descriptive,  204  ;  climate,  farm- 
products,  205  ;  minerals,  206  ; 
government,  charities  and  cor- 
rections, 207 ;  national  institu- 
tions, education,  208  ;  libraries, 
art,  210  ;  newspapers,  211 ;  chief 
cities,  212  ;  railways,  218;  finan- 
ces, 222  ;  manufactories,  223  ; 
map,  472. 

Illinois  &  Michigan  Canal,  221. 

Illinois  Central  R.  R.,  218. 

Illinois  College,  210. 

Illinois  Normal  University,  209. 

Illinois  River,  204. 

Illinois  Staats-Zeitung,  211. 

Illinois  Steel  Co.,  223. 

111.  Trust  and  Savings  Bank,  222. 

Immigrants,  24,  601. 

Immigration  Building,  25. 

Incline,  Elm-Street,  Cin.,  677. 

Independence  Bell,  Phila.,  711. 

Independence,  Fort,  351,  353. 

Independence  Hall,  Penn.,  714, 
711. 

Independence  Hospital,  257. 

Independent^,  The,  N.  ¥.,625. 

Indiana  :  history,  233  ;  name,  234; 
arms,  list  of  governors,  descrip- 
tive, 235 ;  climate,  agriculture, 
236  ;  minerals,  chief  cities,  237  ; 
government,  charities  and  cor- 
rections, education,  238;  news- 
papers, national  institutions, 
241 ;  railroads,  finance,  manu- 
factures, 242  ;  map,  473. 

Indiana  Limestone,  240. 

Indiana  National  Bank,  242. 

Indianapolis  Cabinet  Co.,  245. 

Indianapolis  Court-House,  235. 

Indianapolis,  Ind.,  237,  238,  239, 
241,  244. 

Indianapolis  Insane  Hospital,  236. 

Indianapolis  News,  241. 

Indianapolis  Railway  Station,  240. 

Indianapolis  Soldiers'  Monument, 
234. 

Indiana  Reformatory,  236. 

Indiana  University,  239,  238. 

Indian  Industrial  School,  696. 

Indian  Police,  IQ. 

Indian  River,  Alaska,  47. 

Indian  River,  Fla.,  166,167,  176. 

Indian  Soldiers,  17. 

Indian  Springs,  Ark.,  64. 


Indian  Territory  :  history,  247  ; 
descriptive,  climate,  248  •  gov- 
ernment, education,  249 ;  Chero- 
kees,  250 ;  Chickasaws,  Creeks, 
251 ;  Choctaws,  Seminoles,  252  ; 
map,  502. 

Indian  Training  School,  Penn., 
729. 

Indian  University,  Muscogee,  251. 

Indian  village,  Alaska,  50. 

Indio,  Cal.,  100. 

Industrial  Education,  596. 

Infantry  School,  Kan.,  270. 

Inman  (S.  M.)  &  Co.,  192. 

Innuits,  46. 

Insane  and  Blind  Asylum,  Ind.  T., 
251. 

Inscription  Rock,  58. 

Insurance,  130,  745,  377,  615. 

Interior  Department,  157. 

Interior  Elevators,  433. 

International  Bridge,El  Paso,  825. 

International  Bridge.  N.  Y.,  607. 

International  Hotel,  Niagara 
Falls,  587. 

Inyan  Kara,  900. 

Inyo  Range,  Cal.,  76,  77. 

Iowa  :  history,  253  ;  name,  arms, 
list  of  goyernors,  descriptive, 
255 ;  farming,  257 ;  minerals 
government,  education,  250 
manufactures,  260 ;  railroads 
chief  cities,  261  ;  finances,  262  : 
map,  474. 

Iowa  Agric.  College,  259. 

Iowa  College,  259,  260. 

lowas,  253. 

Iron,  32,  37,  680,  721,  874. 

Iron  Castings,  775. 

Iron  Furnace,  Tallapoosa,  191. 

Iron  Mountain,  Mo.,  445,  441;,  447. 

Iron-Mountain  State,  446. 

Iron-Ore  mining,  409. 

Iron-Ore  vessel,  680. 

Iron  Pier,  Coney  Island,  591. 

Iroquois,  577. 

Irrigation,  109,  511,  535,  574,  836, 
81,  100. 

Irving's  Home,  577. 

Isle  of  Peace,  766. 

Isle  Royale,  Mich.,  411. 

Isles  of  Shoals,  N.  H.,  540,  541. 

Itasca,  Lake,  420,  422. 

Ithaca,  N.  Y.,  604. 

Ivy  Mill,  Penn.,  742. 

ackson,  Gen.  W.'fi.,  800. 

ackson,  Miss.,  442. 

ackson  Monument,  161. 

ackson  Sanatorium,  622. 

ackson,  Sheldon,  49. 

ackson  Square,  296. 

ackson,  Tenn.,  804. 

acksonville,  Blind  Asylum,  207 

acksonville,  Fla.,  175,  166,  171. 

acksonville,  111.,  210. 
Jacksonville,   Inst.  for  the   Deaf 

and  Dumb,  214. 

Jacksonville,  Sub-Tropical  Ex- 
position, 171. 

ames  R.  Hill  Harness  Co.,  547. 

ames  River,  S.  D.,  790,  791,  794. 

ames  River,  Va.,  856. 

amestown  Church,  850,  853. 

amestown,  N.  D.,  659. 
Jasper,  427,  792. 


ayhawker  State,  265. 

efferson  Barracks,  Mo.,  450. 

efferson  City,  Mo.,  445. 

efferson,  Fort,  Fla.,  175,  166- 

efferson  Medical  College,  733. 

efferson's  Home,  852,  855. 

effersonville,  Ind.,  241. 

effrey  Mfg.  Co.,  692. 

ekyl  Island,  Ga.,  180. 

ersey  Blues,  N.  J.,  550. 

ersey  City,   N.  J.,  564,  560,  556. 

esuit  College,  N.  O.,  310. 

etties,  La.,  299. 

ewell  Belting  Co.,  139. 

ewelry,  633,  460. 

ewish  Orphan  Asylum,  668. 

ohn  B.  Stetson   University,  173, 


174. 


Jog 


John  C.  Green,  School  of  Science, 

in   Crouse    Memorial   College, 
596. 

ohns-Hopkins  Hospital,  330. 
ohnny  Appleseed,  662. 
ohns-Hopkins     University,    329, 


330. 
oh 


instown,  Penn.,  721,  739,  747. 
oliet,  253,  443. 
oliet,  111.,  207,  218. 
ones,  Augustine,  770. 
ones,  Richard  M.,  732. 
oplin,  Mo.,  449. 
ordan,  Marsh  &  Co.,  398. 
ornada  del  Muerto,  570. 
udges'  Cave,  Conn.,  118. 
udith  Basin,  Mont.,  512. 
uneau,  Alaska,  52,  49,  50,  51. 
uneau  Statue,  893,  895. 
uniata  River,  Penn.,  712,  718,  719. 
unipero  Serra,  69. 
ustice,  Department  of,  158. 

Kadiak,  Alaska,  45,  49,  51. 

Kaibab  Plateau,  Ariz.,  55. 

Kalamazoo  College,  413. 

Kalamazoo,  Mich.,  406,  414,  415. 

Kalamazoo  Opera  House,  413. 

Kalamazoo  Y.  M.  C.  A.,  405. 

Kalispel  Country,  Mont.,  512. 

Kanawha  Falls,  W.  Va.,  880. 

Kanawha  River,  W.  Va.,  881, 
883. 

Kanawha,  State  of,  880. 

Kaniag  Natives,  45. 

Kankakee,  111.,  207. 

Kansas  :  history,  263  ;  name, 
arms,  list  of  governors,  descrip- 
tive, 265 ;  climate,  farm-pro- 
ducts, 266  ;  geology,  268  ;  gov- 
ernment, education,  269 ;  na- 
tional institutions,  270 ;  cliirf 
cities,  271  ;  railways,  manufac- 
tures, 272  ;  map  475. 

Kansas  City  Board  of  Trade, 
460. 

Kansas  City  C.  H.,  448. 

Kansas  City,  Kan.,  271. 

Kansas  City,  Mo.,  453. 

Kansas-City  Smelting  and  Refin- 
ing Works,  269. 

Kansas-City  Times,  452. 

Kansas-City  Union  Stock- Yards, 
267. 

Kansas-Nebraska  Act,  264. 

Kansas  River,  116,  266. 

Kansas  Stock-Ranges,  267. 

Kaskaskia,  111.,  202,204. 


Katahdin,  Mount,  Me.,  313. 
Kauterskill   Falls,  582. 
Kearney  City  Hall,  523. 
Kearney,  Neb.,  526,  529. 
Kearny  Monument,  552. 
Kearsarge  Pass,  Cal.,  74. 
Kelley's   Island,   Ohio,    666,   667, 

668. 
Kellogg  (A.  N.)   Newspaper  Co., 

211. 

Kennesaw  Mt.,  Ga.,  180. 

Kentucky  :  history,  273  ;  name, 
arms,  list  of  governors,  descrip- 
tive, 275  ;  climate,  farming,  270; 
minerals,  282  ;  government,  ed- 
ucation, 283 ;  population,  chief 
cities,  285 ;  railroads,  286 ; 
finances,  287 ;  religion,  manu- 
factures, 288  ;  map,  476. 

Kentucky  &  Ind.  Bridge,  278. 

Kentucky,  Bank  of,  287. 

Kentucky-River  Bridge,  291. 

Kentucky-River  High  Bridge, 
^Ky.,,  277. 

Ky.  University,  281,  283. 

Ky.  Wagon  Mfg.  Co.'s  Works, 
^289. 

Kenyon  College,  Gambier,  672. 

Keogh,  Fort,  Mont.,  517. 

Keokuk,  Iowa,  261. 

Kern  Lake,  Cal.,  77. 

Kern-River  Gallon,  74. 


Keuka  Lake,  N.  Y.,  585. 
Keweenaw  Point,  Mich., 
Keys,  168. 


409,  410. 


Keystone  Bridge    Co.,    750,   336, 

453,  529,  608,  740. 
Keystone  State,  716. 
Key  West,  Fla.,  168,  170,  174,  175. 
Key  West,  Light  House,  173. 
Kickapoos,  Okla.,  694. 
Kid  and  Morocco,  759. 
Kidder,  Peabody  &  Co.,  376. 
Kilbourne  &  Jacobs  Mfg.  Co.,  682. 
Killington  Peak,  Vt.,  841,  842. 
Kimball  House,  Atlanta,  192. 
Kingan  &  Co.,  Limited,  244. 
King-Co.,  C.  H.,  Wash.,  875. 
King  (Henry  W.)  &  Co.,  227. 
King  Island,  Bering  Sea,  46. 
King's  Chapel,  Boston,  369. 
Kingsley,  J.  E.,  737. 
King's  Mountain,  N.  C.,  647. 
King's  Ranche,  828. 
King's  River,  Cal.,  77. 
Kingston.  N.  Y.,  118,  579,  604. 
Kinzua  Viaduct,  Penn.,  716. 
Kiowas,  695. 

Kirk  (James  S.)  &  Co.,  224. 
Kirkland,  Wash.,  874. 
Kirk's  Soaps,  111. ,224. 
Kishacoquillas  Valley,  717. 
Kitchen- Ware,  692. 
Kittatinny     Mountain,    552,    556, 

717,  719. 

Kittery,  Me.,  317,  540. 
Kittitas  Valley,  Wash.,  868. 
Klamath  Lakes,  Ore.,  701. 
Knapp,  Joseph  P.,  630. 
Knight,  B.  B.  &  R.,  777. 
Knives,  394. 

Knowlton  (Wm.)  &  Sons,  387. 
Knox,  John  Jay,  N.  Y.,  6n. 
Knoxville,   Tenn.,   805,   797,    799, 

801,  802,  803,  809. 
Kokomo,  Ind.,  246, 
Kus'.iokwiin  River,  48,  49,  50,  51. 


INDEX. 

Labor,  Department  of,  158. 
Lachman  (S.)  &  Co.,  85. 
Lackawanna  River,  719. 
La  Crosse,  899. 
La  Crosse  Library,  897. 
Ladd  &  Tilton's  Bank,  706. 
Ladd,  Herbert  W.,  770,  766. 
Ladd    Observatory,   Providence, 

Ladies'  Fine  Stationery,  390. 
Ladies'  Home  Companion,  676. 
Lafayette  College,  Penn.,  730. 
Lafayette,  Ind.,  233,  234,  238,  239. 
Lafayette  Monument,  162,  161. 
Lafayette,  Mount,  N.  H.,  539. 
Lake  Borgne,  299. 
Lake  Park,  Utah,  835. 
Lake  Pend  'Oreilles,  Idaho,  195. 
Lakeport,  Cal.,  77. 
Lake-St.-Clair  Canal,  404. 
Lake  St.-Clair,  Mich..  405. 
Lakewood,  N.  J     555. 
Lalance  &  Grosjean  Mfg.  Co.,  642. 
Lamb,  J.  &  R.,  636. 
Lamson    Consol.    Store    Service 

Co.,  396. 

Lamp  Chimneys,  757. 
Lamps,  134,  138. 
Lancaster,  Penn.,  738. 
Land,  Log  &  Lumber  Co.,  889. 
Land  of  the  Dakotas,  656. 
Landreth,  (David)  &  Sons,  758. 
Land  of  Steady  Habits,  120. 
Land  of  Sunshine,  569. 
Lane,  Joseph,  697,  698. 
Lane's  Trail,  264. 
Lane  Theol.  Semi.,  674. 
Lansing,  Mich.,  411,  414. 
Lansing  Reform  School,  410. 
La  Pointe,  Wis.,  886,  892. 
La-Salle,   201,  202,  293,   437,   443, 

795,  886. 

Las  Cruces,  N.  M..  574,  572. 
Lassen's  Peak,  Cal.,  76. 
Las  Vegas  Hot  Springs,  N.   M., 

Las  Vegas,  N.  M.,  572,  573,  574. 

Law  Publishers,  430. 

Lawrence,  Kan.,  270,  271. 

Lawrence,  Mass.,  373. 

Lawrence  Univ.,  Wis.,  896. 

Layton  Art  Gallery,  894. 

Lead,  228,  894. 

Leadville,  Col.,  no,  113. 

League  Island,  Penn.,  728. 

Leary's  Old  Book  Store,  743. 

Leather,  759,  900. 

Leather  Belting,  139,  460. 

Leather-  woven  Link  Belts,  Mo., 
460. 

Leavenworth,  Col.,  420. 

Leavenworth,  Fort,  Kan.,  270, 
271. 

Leavenworth,  Kan.,  263,  264,  269, 
271,  272. 

Leavenworth  P.  O.,  Kan.,  271. 

Lecterns,  636. 

Ledger,  N.  Y.,  626. 

Lee,  Fitzhugh,  on  Va.,  850. 

Lee  Monument,  Richmond,  856. 

Lee,  Robert  E.,  163,  852,  862. 

Lehi,  Utah,  835, 

Lehigh  University,  Penn.,  730. 

Lehigh  Water  Gap,  719. 

Leland,  Charles  E.,  Ore.,  708. 

Leland  Stanford  Junior  Univer- 
sity, 93,96, 


923 

Lemhi  Valley,  Idaho,  194. 
L' Enfant,  Major,  150,  152. 
Lenox  Library,  N.  Y.,  599. 
Levee,  Memphis,  797. 
Levee,  N.  O.,  299. 
Lewes,  Del.,  144,  i47. 
Lewis  and  Clarke,  263,  865,  697. 
Lewisburg,  Penn.,  721. 
Lewis,  George  H.,  621. 
Lewiston,  Idaho,  199. 
Lexington  in  1782,  274. 
Lexington,  Ky.,  281,  282,  283,  286. 
Lexington,  Mass.,  342. 
Lexington,  P.  O.,  Ky.,  279. 
Liberty  Enlightening  the  World, 

7,  558. 

Library  of  Philadelphia,  733,  734. 
Lick  Observatory,  93,  681. 
Life-insurance,  615,  370. 
Life-Saving  Service,  17,  20,  555. 
Liggett  &  Meyers  Tobacco  Co., 

458. 

Light-House  Board,  20,  24. 
Light-Ship,  24. 
Ljgonier  Valley,  Penn.,  718. 
Lima  C.  H.,  Ohio,  665. 
Lincoln  Institute,  729. 
Lincoln  Monument,  210,  216. 
Lincoln,  Neb.,  526,  529. 
Lincoln  Park,  Chicago,  111.,  206. 
Lincoln's  Gettysburg  Speech,  714. 
Lincoln  statues,  161,  162. 
Lincoln  University,  Penn.   731. 
Linen  Ledger  Paper,  390. 
Line  of  Battle,  10. 
Link-Belt  Engineering  Co.,  754. 
Link-Belt  Machinery  Co.,  225. 
Linkville,  Ore.,  704. 
Linoleum,  761. 
Linotype,  631. 

Linville  Gorge,  N.  C.,  650,  648. 
Linville  River,  N.  C.,  646. 
Liquor  Laws,  Iowa,  254. 
Lithia-Springs  Hotel,  Ga.,  191. 
Lithography,  361,  690,  631,  630. 
Little  Rhody,  765. 
Little  Rock  &  Fort-Smith  R.R.,6s. 
Little  Rock,  Ark.,  67,  68,  60,  62, 

64,  65, 

Little- Rock  C.  H.,  68. 
Little- Rock  Post-office,  Ark.,  68. 
Little-Rock  University,  67. 
Little  Tennessee  River,  795,  799, 

650. 

Litiz,  Penn.,  735. 
Liverpool,  London  &  Globe  Ins. 

Co.,  618. 

Live  Stock  of  U.  S.,  14. 
Llano  del  Rey,  Cal.,  70. 
Llano  Estacado,  570,  817. 
Lockport,  N.  Y.,  636,  604,  397. 
Logan,  Fort,  Col.,  112. 
Logansport,  Ind.,  236,  238. 
Logansport,  Soldiers'  Monument, 

239. 

Logan,  Utah,  838,  837. 
London  Co.,  849. 
Lone-Star  State,  814. 
Long  &  Alstatter   Co.,  692. 
Long  Branch,  N.  J.,  554. 
Longfellow,  H.  W.,  342. 
Longfellow's  Birthplace,  312. 
Longfellow's  Wayside  Inn,  342. 
Long  Island,  N.Y.,  588,118,576,578. 
Long  Pond,  Winsted,  122. 
Long's  Peak,  Col.,  101,  103,  102. 
Lookout  Inn,  Tenn.,  806,  807. 


924 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE    UNITED   STATES. 


Lookout  Mountain,  806,  796,  810. 

Looms,  384. 

Loop  near  Georgetown,  no. 

Loquats,  83. 

Lord  De  la  Warr,  143, 144. 

Loretto,  Penn.,  735. 

Lorillard  Tobacco  Works,  564. 

Los  Angeles,  97,  71,  76,  92,  93,  81, 
568. 

Los  Angeles,  Army  Headquar- 
ters, 96. 

Los  Angeles,  Y.  M.  C.  A.,  92. 

Lost  Colony,  646. 

Louis  Dejonge  &  Co.,  632. 

Louisiana  :  history,  292  ;  name, 
arms,  list  of  governors,  descrip- 
tive, 296 ;  agriculture,  300 ; 
sugar-raising,  302;  climate,  gov- 
ernment, 306  ;  education,  307  ; 
newspapers,  308  ;  National  in- 
stitutions, chief  cities,  309 ; 
commerce,  finances,  railroads, 
manufactures,  310  ;  map,  478. 

Louisiana  Cypress  Lumber  Co., 
298. 

Louisiana  State  University,  307, 
306. 

Louisiana  Sugar  Refinery,  305. 

Louisville  City  Hall,  284. 

Louisville  Courier-Journal,  Ky., 
284. 

Louisville  Court-House,  289. 

Louisville,  Custom  House,  287. 

Louisville,  Ky.,  285,  277. 

Louisville,  New-Albany  &  Chi- 
cago, R.  R.,  220. 

Lovers'  Live-Oak,  Brunswick,i8i. 

Low  Art  Tiles,  361. 

Lowell  Carpet  Co.,  386,  399. 

Lowell,  Mass.,  373. 

Lower  California,  69. 

Lubec,  Me.,  312. 

Lumber,  90,  872-3,  232,  426,  408, 
315,  889,  623,  88 1,  817. 

Lumbering  in  Mich.,  408. 

Luray  Caverns,  855. 

Lutcher  &  Moore  LumberCo.,8 30. 

Luther  College,  Iowa,  260. 

Luzerne  Lake,  N.  Y.,  584. 

Lyell,  Mount,  Cal.,  74. 

Lynn,  Canal,  Alaska,  49. 

Lynn,  Mass.,  373,  349. 

Macbeth  (George  A.)  &  Co.,  757. 

Machias,  Me.,  312. 

Machine  Builders,  686. 

Machine  Tools,  752,  775. 

MacKellar,  Smiths  &  Jordan,  742. 

Mackinac,  Mich.,  403,  405. 

Mackinaw,  Straits  of,  Mich.,  403. 

Macon,  Ga.,  187,  189. 

Macon  Post-Office,  189. 

Macullar,  Parker  &  Co.,  398. 

Madison,  Fort,  Iowa,  261. 

Madison's  home,  Va.,  855. 

Madison.  S.  D.,  792,  794. 

Madison  Square  Garden, N.Y.,6oi. 

Madison- Square  Theatre,  623. 

Madison  Street,  Memphis   708. 

Madison,  Wis.,  807,  898. 

Magazine  Mts.,  Ark.,  62,  65. 

Mail-Bag  Catching,  20. 

Maine  :  history,  311;  name,  arms, 
312  ;  list  of  governors,  descrip- 
tive, 313  ;  summer-resorts,  314  ; 
climate,  geology,  315  ;  agricul- 
ture, government,  316 ;  militia, 


United-States  buildings,  educa- 
tion, 317  ;  chief  cities,  maritime 
trade,  railroads,  318  ;  steam- 
ships, 319  ;  manufactures,  320  ; 
map,  479. 

Maine,  Battle-Ship,  23. 

Maine  Central  R.  R.,  319,  539,  543. 

Maine  Law,  312. 

Maine  Woods,  315. 

Making  Tar,  N.  C.,  652. 

Malad  Valley,  Utah,  834. 

Maiden  Library,  Mass.,  374. 

Malvern  Hill,  Va.,  853. 

Mammoth  Cave,  Ky.,  276,  352. 

Mammoth  Hot  Springs,  911,910, 
912. 

Manchester-by-the-Sea,  352,  362. 

Manchester,  N.  H.,  543,  540. 

Manchester  Post-Office,  540. 

Manchester,  Vt.,  842,  844,  845. 

Mandan  Country,  655. 

Manhattan,  576,  577. 

Manhattan  Club,  N.  Y. ,  607. 

Manhattan,  Kan.,  270. 

Manilla  Paper,  632. 

Manitou,  Col.,  108. 

Manitou  Islands,  403,  40 j. 

Mankato,  Minn.,  426. 

Mansfield,  Mt.,  Vt.,  840,  842. 

Manti,  Mormon  Temple,  8^5. 

Manual  Training  School, Chicago, 
228. 

Manual  Training  School,  St. 
Louis,  448. 

Manufactories  of  U.  S.,  25. 

•Maple  Sugar,  667,  843. 

Maplewood,  Tenn.,  805. 

Maps,  628. 

Marble,  347,  '184,  726,  844,  801. 

Marble  Canon,  Ariz.,  56. 

March  to  the  Sea,  178. 

Marcus  Synagogue,  368. 

Mardi  Gras,  La.,  309. 

Mare  Island,  Cal.,  91. 

Marietta  College,  Ohio,  662,  673. 

Marietta,  Ga.,  186,  189,  190. 

Marietta,  Ohio,  661,  663,  664. 

Marine  Barracks,  D.  C.,  160. 

Marine  Hospital,  Key  West,  172. 

Marine  Insurance,  N.  Y.,  618. 

Marion,  Fort,  Fla.,  174. 

Marquand  Chapel,  Yale,  125. 

Marquette,  253,  437,  401,  443,  201. 

Marquette,  Mich.,  410. 

Marquette  Post-Office,  407. 

Marquette  Range,  Mich.,  410. 

Marsalis,  T.  L.,824. 

Marshall,  Field  &  Co.,  227. 

Marshall  Pass,  Col.,  105. 

Marshall  Statue,  71. 

Martha's  Vineyard,  Mass.,  347, 
340. 

Martinsburg,  W.  Va.,  884. 

Martyrs'  Monument,  N.  Y.,  600. 

Mary  J.  Drexel  Home,  725. 

Maryland:  history,  321;  name, 
arms,  324  ;  list  of  governors,  de- 
scriptive, 325  ;  climate,  farm- 
products,  327  ;  minerals,  gov- 
ernment, 328  ;  education,  329  ; 
newspapers,  National  institu- 
tions, 332  ;  chief  cities,  333  ; 
finances,  railroads,  335  ;  manu- 
factures, 336  ;  map,  468. 

Md.  Agricultural  College,  324,  329. 

Maryland  Heights,  327. 

Marysville,  CaT,  97. 


Mason  and  Dixon's  Line,  322,  710. 

Mason,  Capt.  John,  117,  120. 

Masonic  Home,  Mich.,  404. 

Masonjc  Library,  Iowa,  259. 

Masonic  Temples,  221,  639,  722. 

Masonic  Widows'  and  Orphans' 
Home,  278. 

Mason,  James  &  Co.,  758. 

Massachusetts  :  history,  339  ; 
name,  arms,  344  ;  motto,  list  of 
governors,  345 ;  descriptive, 
346 ;  geology,  347  ;  climate,  ag- 
riculture, 348  ;  parks  and  pleas- 
ure-grounds, 349  ;  State  govern- 
ment, 350 ;  charities  and  correc- 
tions, 351;  health  and  mortality, 
United-States  institutions,  352  ; 
educational,  354  ;  amusements, 
359;  art,  360;  public  libraries, 
362  ;  memorials,  363  ;  maritime 
commerce,  364  ;  fisheries,  popu- 
lation, 365  ;  religion,  366  ;  rail- 
roads, 369 ;  steamships,  life-in- 
surance, 370  ;  newspapers,  371  ; 
chief  cities,  372 ;  finances  and 
banking,  376  ;  insurance,  377  ; 
manufactures,  378;  map,  480. 

Massachusetts  Ave.,  D.  C.,  152. 

Mass.  Charitable  Mechanic  Asso., 
376. 

Mass.  Institute  of  Technology, 
355- 

Massasoit,  763. 

Mast,  Crowell  &  Kirkpatrick,  676. 

Mast,  P.  P.  &  Co.,  683. 

Matador  Ranche,  829. 

Matagorda  Bay,  815. 

Matches,  685. 

Matthews,  J.  N.,  628. 

Matthews-Northrup  Co.,  Buffalo, 
N.  Y.,628. 

Mauch  Chunk,  718,  740. 

Maumee  River,  Ohio,  666. 

Mauvaises  Terres,  657. 

Maxwell  House,  Nashville,  805. 

Mayacamas  Mts.,  89. 

May,  Cape,  N.  J.,  554. 

Jftiv  floiver,  340. 

McAlester,  I.  T.,  252. 

McCormick  Harvesting  Machine 

McDowell,  Maj.  H.  C.,  282. 
McHenry,  Fort,  Md.,333. 
McMichael,  Morton,  757,  741. 
McMichael,  Morton,  Jr.,  744. 
McNeely  &  Co.,  759. 
McPherson  Statue,  161,  162. 
Meadville,  Pa.,  739. 
Meat-Packing,  Neb.,  525. 
Mechanic  Falls,  Me.,  320. 
Medical  Lake,  Wash.,"  870,  871. 
Medical    Library    and    Museum, 

162,  159. 

Medicinal  Herbs,  652. 
Medoc  Vineyard,  N.  C.,  651,  652. 
Memorial  Arch,  Hartford,  120, 129. 
Memorial  Hall,  Phi  la.,  736. 
Memphis,  Tenn.,  805,  808,  795,  796, 

797,  798,  799,  804,  809,  810. 
Memphremagog,  Lake,  Vt.,  841, 

842. 

Mendocino,  Cape,  Cal.,  69. 
Menomonee  Indians,  888,  893. 
Merced  River,  Cal.,  74. 
Mercer,  Fort,  N.  J.,  550. 
Mercer  University,  Ga.,  187. 
Merchants'  Bridge,  St.  Louis,  444. 


Merchants'  Cotton  Press  Storage 
Co.,  810. 

Merchants'  Nat.  Bank,  Bait.,  335. 

Merchants'  Nat.  Bank,  Boston, 
376. 

Merchants'  Nat.  Bank,  Tacoma, 
878. 

Mergenthaler  Printing  Co.,  631. 

Meriden  Britannia  Co.,  135. 

Meriden,  Conn.,  130. 

Meriden  Reform  School,  124. 

Meridian,  Miss.,  442. 

Meriwether,  Lewis,  193. 

Merino  sheep,  844. 

Mermod  &  Jaccard  Jewelry  Co., 
460. 

Merrimac  River,  330,  346,  540. 

Mesilla  Valley,  N.  M.,  571. 

Metairie  Cemetery,  309. 

Methodist  General  Hospital,  593. 

Metlakahtla,  Alaska,  52,  49. 

Metropole  Hotel,  Denver,  113. 

Metropolitan  Museum,  N.  Y.,  602. 

Metropolitan  Museum  of  Art, 
N.  Y.,  602. 

Metropolitan  Opera  House,  N.  Y., 
602. 

Mexican  Boundary  Mon't,  71. 

Mexican  Women,  57. 

Meyer  Bros.  Drug  Co.,  459. 

Miami  University,  Ohio,  673. 

Miami  Valley,  Ohio,  678. 

Miantonomoh,  iron-clad,  23. 

Michigan  :  history,  401,  name, 
arms,  list  of  governors,  402  ; 
descriptive,  403  ;  Lower  Penin- 
sula, 404  ;  climate,  agriculture, 
405  ;  minerals,  406  ;  lumber,  407; 
Upper  Peninsula,  409;  iron-pro- 
duct, 410 ;  government.  State 
troops,  charities  and  correc- 
tions, 411  ;  education,  412  ; 
newspapers,  chief  cities,  414; 
finances,  railroads,  415  ;  manu- 
factures, 416 ;  distances  between 
lake-ports,  418  ;  map,  482. 

Mich.  Car  Co.,  417. 

Michigan  Central  R.  R.,  220,  416, 
6:9. 

Mich.  Central  Stat.,  Detroit,  415. 

Mich.  Cen.  Stat.,  Kalamazoo,  415. 

Michigan  City,  Ind.,  235,  238. 

Michigan,  Lake,  403. 

Michigan  Mining  School,  411. 

Michigan  University,  412. 

Microscopes,  637. 

Middlebury  College,  Vt.,  846, 845. 

Middlebury,  Vt.,  845,  846. 

Middle  Park,  Col.,  104,  105. 

Middlesborough,  Ky.,  276,  283. 

Middlesex  Fells,  Mass.,  349. 

Middletown,  Conn.,  130. 

Middletown     Industrial     School, 

Middletown,  N.  Y.,  604. 
Middletown  Springs,  Vt.,  843. 
Midland  Hotel,  Kansas  City,  454. 
Mifflin,  Fort,  Penn.,  728. 
Milburn  Gin    and   Machine  Co., 

809. 

Miles  City,  Mont.,  519. 
Milford,  Conn.,  120,  118,  119. 
Military  Academy,  599,  17,  18. 
Military  Courage,  333. 
Military  Service,  19,  17. 
Milledgeville,  Ga.,  186,  189. 
Millerites,  598. 


INDEX. 

Millinery,  227,  337. 

Mills  Building,  N.  Y.,  610,  96,  88. 

Mills,  D.  0.,N.  Y.,6io. 

Milwaukee,  896,  898. 

Milwaukee  Cham,  of  Com.,  890. 

Mine  Engine,  724. 

Minerals  of  U.  S.,  14. 

Miners'  Hospital,  Penn.,  725. 

Mining  Bureau,  Cal.,  94. 

Mining  Machinery,  692. 

Mining,  Mont.,  516. 

Minisink,  Penn.,  719. 

Minneapolis,  431. 

Minneapolis  Cemetery,  424. 

Minneapolis  Chamber  of  Com- 
merce, 43  r. 

Minneapolis  City  Hall,  430. 

Minneapolis  Exposition,  425. 

Minneapolis  Masonic  Templets. 

Minneapolis  P.  O.,  424. 

Minneapolis  Public  Library,  424. 

Minneapolis  Tribune,  429. 

Minnehaha  Falls,  Minn.,  424,  423. 

Minnesota:  history,  419;  name, 
arms,  list  of  governors,  descrip- 
tive, 421  ;  farming,  425  ;  mining, 
426 ;  population,  government, 
427  ;  education,  428  ;  religion, 
newspapers,  429 ;  chief  cities, 
431;  finances,  434;  railways, 
435  ;  map,  481. 

Minn.  Iron  Co.,  426,  427. 

Minnesota  Lake,  421. 

Minn.  Loan  &  Trust  Co.,  435. 

Minnesota  River,  423. 

Minnetonka  Lake,  Minn.,  420,436. 

Minor,  Henry  C.,  302. 

Minot's  Ledge  Light,  24. 

Mints,  U.-S.,  25,  87. 

Minuteman  Statue,  Mass.,  343. 

Mission  Dolores,  72. 

Mission  Concepcion,  812. 

Mission  Indians,  92,  69,  70. 

Mission  Mt.,  510. 

Mission  Peak,  Cal.,  96. 

Mississippi  :  history,  437  ;  name, 
arms,  list  of  governors,  descrip- 
tive, 439  ;  geology,  climate,  440  ; 
agriculture,  government,  441  ; 
education,  chief  cities, .  442  ; 
map,  484. 

Miss.  College,  439,  442. 

Mississippi   River,  299,  309,  422, 

Mississippi  Sound,  440. 

Missisquoi  Springs,  Vt.,  843. 

Missoula,  Mont.,  519. 

Missouri  :  history,  443  ;  name, 
arms,  list  of  governors,  descrip- 
tive, 446  ;  climate,  agriculture, 
448  ;  mining,  449  ;  government, 
National  guard,  education,  450  ; 
newspapers,  451 ;  chief  cities, 
452 ;  finances,  454  ;  railways, 
manufactures,  456  ;  map  485. 

Missouri  Compromise,  264. 

Missouri-Pacific  Railway,  68. 

Missouri  River,  447,  523,  657,  257. 

Mp.-River  Bridge,  272. 

Mitchell,  Alex.,  885,  900. 

Mitchell,  Mount,  N.  C.,  650,  654. 

Mobile,  35,  41,  33,  29,  27,  28. 

Moccasin  Bend,  Tenn.,  807. 

Mogollon  Mts.,  Ariz.,  55. 

Mohave  Desert,  100,  80,  81. 

Mohegan. tribe,  1-7. 

Monmouth,  N.  J.,  550. 


925 

Monmouth  Park,  560. 

Mono  Lake,  Cal.,  72,  74,  77. 

Monona  Lake,  896,  898. 

Monon  Block,  220. 

Monongahela  River,  719. 

Monon  Route,  220,  219,  242. 

Monroe,  Fort,  851,  858. 

Montana  :  history,  509  ;  name, 
arms,  list  of  governors,  510; 
descriptive,  511  ;  climates,  agri- 
culture, 515 ;  mining,  govern- 
ment, 516 ;  education,  religion. 
National  works,  517 ;  chief 
cities,  518  ;  railroads,  519 ;  fi- 
nance, 520 ;  map,  486. 

Mont. ,  Collegeof ,  Deer  Lodge,  517. 

Montana  Cowboys,  510. 

Montana  University,  517. 

Monterey,  Cal.,  69,70,  71,  78,  90, 
831. 

Monterey :  Hotel  Del  Monte,  78. 

Monterey:  Old  Custom  House,  70. 

Montezuma  Hotel,  Bessemer,  39. 

Montezuma  Well,  Ariz.,  57. 

Montgomery,  35,  28. 

Montgomery,  Fort,  N.  Y.,  600. 

Montgomery  State  House,  27,  33. 

Monticello,  Va.,  852. 

Montpelier,  Vt.,  841,  845. 

Montpelier,  Va.,  855. 

Monumental  City,  331. 

Monument  over  Plymouth  Rock, 

Monument  Park,  Col.,  108. 
Monument  Place,  Wilmington,  145. 
Moody,  D.  L.,  357,  210. 
Moore  &  Sinnott,  758. 
Moorhead  Normal  School,  Minn., 

427. 

Moosehead  Lake,  Me.,  313. 
Moosetocmaguntic  Lake,  314. 
Moqui  Pueblo,  58,  53,  571. 
Moravian  Church,  Penn.,  735. 
Morehead  City,  N.  C.,  653,  646. 
Morgan  Envelope  Co.,  391,  141. 
Morgan's  (Enoch)  Sons  Co.,  641. 
Morgantown,  W.  Va.,  883. 
Mormons,  833,  405,  444,  598,  831. 

664,  202,  531,  197,  199,  903. 
Mormon  Temples,  834,  838,  835. 
Morris  Canal,  556,  562. 
Morris  (Josiah)  &  Co.,  42. 
Morris  (Josiah)  Block,  36. 
Morristown  Asylum,  557. 
Morristown,  N.  J.,  550,  553. 
Morse  Twist  Drill  &  Machine  Co., 

394. 

Mortgage  Bank,  N.  D.,  660. 
Morton  McMichael  Statue,  735. 
Morton  Monument,  234. 
Moscow,  Idaho,  198. 
Mossbrae  Falls,  81. 
Mother  of  Presidents,  853. 
Motor    (Thomson-Houston)  Co.. 

379- 

Mound  at  Catoosa,  I.  T.,  249. 
Mound-builders,  885.    .  . 
Mountain  Island,  892. 
Mt.  Byram  Iron  Mine,  556. 
Mt.  de  Chantal,  884. 
Mount  Gretna,  727. 
Mount-Holyoke  College,  357. 
Mt.  St.-Mary's  College,  325,  330. 
Mt.-Sinai  Hospital,  N.  Y.,  592. 
Mt.-Vernon  Barracks,  Ala.,  33. 
Mt.-  Vernon  Cotton-Duck  Mills, 

337- 


926 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  'THE    UNITED   STATES. 


Mount  Vernon,  Va.,  850,  852,  162.  Naval  Observatory,  159,  160.  New  London,  Conn.,  122,  130. 

Mt.-Washington  Railway,  539.        Naval  Signal-flags,  4.  New  Madrid,  Mo.,  444. 

Mower-Knives,  642,  690.  Naval  Station,  Key  West,  168.         New     Mexico  :       history,     567  ; 

Muir  Glacier,  Alaska,  48,  49.  Navesink  Highlands,  N.  J.,  554.          name,  arms,  list  of   governors, 

Mullet-fisheries,  Fla.,  169.  Navy,  17,  23.  descriptive,   569  ;    climate,   570; 

Multnomah  Falls,  Ore.,  702,  704.     Navy  Department,  157.  farming,  mining,  571  ;  govern- 

Munising,  Mich.,  471.  Nazareth,  Penn.,  735.  ment,   572  ;  education,    popula- 

Muscatine,  Iowa,  261.  Neah-Bay  Agency,  875.  tion,   573  ;  chief   towns,   irriga- 

Muscle  Shoals,  Ala.,  28,  30.  Nebraska  :   history,   521  ;  name,      tion,  574  ;  map,  489. 

Muscogee,   Ind.  T.,  249,252,696,      arms,  list  of  governors,  descrip-  New  Old  S^uth  Church,  366. 

437,  645.  tive,  522;  climate,  farming,  524;  New  Orleans,  307,  309,  293,  294,  664. 

Museum  of  Fine  Arts,  360,  394.  government,     education,     526  ;  N.-O.  Custom  House,  301. 

Music  Hall,  N.  Y.,  636,  newspapers,  527  :  finance,  chief  N.-O.  Mint,  296. 

Music-Publishing,  399.  cities,  528  ;  United-States  insti-  N.-O.  National  Bank,  310. 

Muskegon,  Mich.,  414.  tutions,   railroads,  529  ;   manu-  Newport,  R.  I.,  763,  764,  766,  768, 

Muskingum  River,  Ohio,  662,  663,      factures,  530  ;  map,  487.  771. 

666.  Needle  Peaks,  Col.,  106.  Newport,  Vt.,  841. 

Mutual  Benefit  Life-Ins.  Co.,  562.  Needles,  The,  Ariz.,  58,  81,  98.         New  River,  W.  Va.,  882,  883. 
Mutual    Life-Insurance    Co.,    of  Nemaha  River,  530.  Newspapers  in  U.  S.,  21. 

N.  Y.,  370,  616.  Nephi,  Utah,  838,  834,  837.  New  Sweden,  Del.,  143,  709. 

Mystic  River,  Conn.,  117.  Neutral  Strip,  696.  Newton,  Mass.,  373,  393,  17. 

Nevada:    history,    531;     name,  Newton  Theol.  Sem.,  357. 

Nacogdoches,  811,  818.  arms,  list  of  governors,  descrip-  New  York,  605,  6or. 

Name  of  U.  S.,  7.  tive,  533  ;  climate,  534  ;  farming,  New  York  :  history,  575  ;   name, 

Nantahala,  N.  C.,  645,  650.  minerals,  535  ;  government,  rail-      arms,    list    of    governors,   582; 

Nantucket,  340,  347.  roads,  chief  towns,   536;  map,      descriptive,  583;   climate,  geol- 

Napa,  Cal.,  97.  464.  pgy,  588;  population,  589  ;  farm- 

Napa  Soda  Springs,  80.  Nevada  City,  Cal.,  97.  ing,  590  ;  government,  National 

Napa'  Valley,  Cal.,  76.  Nevada  State  University,  536.  Guard,    charities    and    correc- 

Narragansetts,  117,  763,  764,  765.     Nevins    Memorial    Library,    363,      tions,  591  ;    education,  593  ;    re- 
Narragansett  Bay,  R.  I.,  764,  766,      362.  ligion,    597;     National    institu- 

767.  New-Albany  Woolen  Mills,  246.          tions,    599  ;    chief    cities,    601  ; 

Narragansett  Hotel,  771,  777.  New  Albion,  69.  maritime  commerce,  canals,  604; 

Narragansett  Pier,  Casino,  766.      New  Almaden,  Cal.,  87.  bridges,  607  ;  finances,  609;  trust 

Narrows,  The,  N.  Y.,  600,  601.         New  American  File  Co.,  780.  companies,  613  ;   life-insurance, 

Nashotah  House,  Wis.,  896.  Newark  and  Passaic  River,  561.         615  ;    fire-insurance,   618  ;    rail- 

Nashua   Card    &    Glazed    Paper  Newark  C.  H.,  561.  roads,  619;  hotels,  620;  theatres, 

Co.,  547.  Newark,  Del.,  147,  144.  622;     lumber    and    coal,    623; 

Nashua,  N.  H.,  543.  Newark,  N.  J.,  560.  newspapers,  624;  manufactures, 

Nashville,   804,  796,  797,  798,799,  Newark  P.  0.,  561.  626;  map,  490-1. 

802,  803,  805,  809.  New  Bedford,  Mass.,  374.  N.-Y.Anderson  Pressed  Brick  Co., 

Nashville  Public  Buildings,  799.      New  Berne,  N.  C.,  647,  649,  653.      644. 

Natatorium,  Helena,  514.  Newberry  Library,  210.  N.  Y.  &  N.  E.  Bridge,  Hartford, 

Natchez,  Miss.,  442,  438.  New  Britain,  Conn.,  130.  123,  129. 

Natchez  Trace,  808.  New  Brunswick,  N.  J.,  559,  561.       N.  Y.  &  New  England  R.  R.,  369, 

Natchitoches,  La.,  293,  307.  Newburgh  Headquarters,  581.  128. 

National   Academy    of    Designs,  Newburgh,  N.  Y.,  609,   118,   579,  New-  York  Central  Railroad,  619. 

N.  Y.,  602.  581,  582,  586,  604.  N.-Y.  Custom  House,  24. 

Nat.  Bank  of  Commerce,  455.          Newburyport,  Mass.,  373,  342,346,  N.-Y.  Life-Ins.  Co.,  617,  431,  432, 
National  Banks,  20.  348,  349,  352,  353,  354,  367,  364-          527,  5*8. 

National  Carbon  Co.,  691.  Newbury  Springs,  Vt.,  843.  New-  York  P.  O.,  620. 

National     Cemetery,    Arlington,  New  Castle,  Del.,  143,  148.  Nez  Perces,  Idaho,  200. 

855.  New-England  Anderson  Pressed  Niagara  Falls  Route,  220. 

National  City,  Cal.,  97.  Brick  Co.,  400.  Niagara   Falls,   N.   Y.,   608,  607, 

National  Home  for  Disabled  Vol-  New-England    Conservatory,  of      586,  627. 

unteer  Soldiers,  271,  317,92,  241,      Music,  363.  Niagara,  Fort,  N.  Y.,  577,  601. 


,  ,          ,     .     .,       , 

671.  New-England  Mutual  Life-Insur-  Niagara  Hotel,  Buffalo,  621. 

at.  Museum,  D.  C.,  159,  162.  ance  Co.,  370,  454.  Niagara    River,   N.  Y.,   580, 

Nat.  Park  Bank,  612.  Newfound  Lake,  N.  H.,  539.  582,  584, 


Nat.  Reporter  system,  Minn.,  430.  New  Hampshire  :    history,  537  ;  Nichols,  J.  Howard,  386. 

Nat.  Road,  327,  712.  name,  arms,  list  of  governors,  Nicholson  File  Co.,  780. 

National  Songs,  17,  357.  538;  descriptive,   539  ;    govern-  Nickel,  726. 

Nat.  Statuary  Hall,  155.  ment,  education,   541 ;  religion,  Nicojack  Cave,  Ga.,  181. 

Nat.  Tube  Works,  756.  chief    cities,     543  ;     commerce,  Niobrara,  Neb.,  523. 

Nat.  Worsted  Mills,  776.  finances,   insurance,   544  ;  agri-  Nippenose  Valley,  Penn.,  718. 

Natural   Bridge,   Ark.,  60;   Cal.,      culture,      manufactures,      545 ;  Nittany  Valley,  Pa.,  718. 

80  ;  Ky. ;  277  ;  Va.,  854,  856.  minerals,  548  ;  map,  506.  Noble  Institute,  Ala.,  36,  37. 

Natural  Gas,  242,  246,  668,  670.         N.  H.  Fire-Ins.  Co.,  544.  No  Man's  Land,  696,  812. 

Natural    Sciences,   Academy    of,  New-Haven,  129,  118.  Norcross  Bros.,  227,  308,  375,  677, 

729.  New  Jersey:  history,  549;  name,      738. 

Naugatuck  River,  Conn.,  121,  130.      arms,    list    of    governors,   551  ;  Nordyke  &  Marmon  Co.,  244, 
Nautical  Schools,  596,  734.  descriptive,     552  ;    agriculture,  Norfolk  Neck,  Va.,  854. 

Nauvoo,  111.,  202.  555:  minerals,  government,  556;  Norfolk,  St. -Paul's,  851. 

Nauvoo  Legion,  832,  837.  National  Guard,  557;  education,  Norfolk,  Va.,  856. 

Navajoes,  N.  M.,  574.  558  ;   chief    cities,    560;    insur-  Normal  Art  School,  Boston,  360. 

Naval  Academy,  332,  17,  22.  ance,    561  ;    railroads,     canals,  Normal  School,  Florence,  41. 

Naval  Battalion,  Mass.,  350.  manufactories,  562  ;  map,  488.      Norristown,  Penn.,  739. 


Norseman  Statue,  Boston,  340. 
Norsemen,  340,  311. 
North  America,  Bank  of,  743. 
North-Amercian  Commercial  Co., 

52- 

North  American^  Phi  la.,  741. 

Northampton,  Mass.,  374. 

North  Carolina  :  history,  645  ; 
name,  arms,  list  of  governors, 
descriptive,  648  ;  climate,  agri- 
culture, 651;  mineral  resources, 
652 ;  government,  education, 
653;  chief  cities,  manufacturing, 
railroads,  654  ;  map,  492. 

Northern  Cheyennes,  518,  695. 

North  Dakota :  history,  655  ; 
name,  arms,  list  of  governors, 
descriptive,  656 ;  farming,  cli- 
mate, government,  658  ;  educa- 
tion, chief  cities,  railroads,  659  ; 
map,  4^93. 

North  Easton  Town  Hall,  364. 

Northern  Neck,  Va.,  852,  854. 

Northern  Hospital  for  Insane,  El- 
gin, 207. 

Northfield,  Minn.,  429,  434. 

Northfield,  W.,  846. 

North  Park,  Col.,  105. 

North-Star  State,  421. 

North  Yakima,  Wash.,  871. 

Norton  Sound,  Alaska,  47,  49,  50, 
51,  46. 

Northwestern  IMiller,  430. 

Northwestern  University,  208, 
209. 

Northwest  Seal  Rock,  78. 

Norumbega  Tower,  341,  340. 

Norwich,  Conn.,  130,  120. 

Norwich  Free  Academy,  127. 

Norwich  Harbor,  Conn.,  129. 

Noyo  Lumber  Co.,  90. 

Nuklakayet,  Alaska,  48. 

Nullification,  782. 

Nurseries,  641. 

Nuwuk,  Alaska,  47. 

Oak-Cliff  Hotel,  824. 
Oak-Cliff  University,  824. 
Oakland  Beach,  R.  I.,  768. 
Oakland,  Cal.,  96. 
Oakland,  Md.,  326,  327. 
Oat-Meal,  687. 
Obelisk,  N.  Y.,  590,  602. 
Oberlin  College,  Ohio,672. 
Observatories  in  the  LTnited  States, 

330,  153,  316. 
Observatory.  Ladd,  770. 
Ocean  Pier,  Cape  May,  554. 
Ocean  Springs,  Miss.,  440. 
Ocklawaha,  on  the,  Fla.,  169,  176. 
Oconomowoc,  Wis.,  887. 
Odd-Fellows  Hall,  458. 
Ogalalla  Sioux,  529. 
Ogden  Canon,  Utah,  833. 
Ogden  Monument,  265. 
Ogdensburg,  N.  Y.,  604. 
Ogden,   Utah,  836,  837,  835,  834, 

838,  832,  833. 

Ogeechee  Canal,  Ga.,  191. 
Oglethorpe,  Gen.,  177,  189. 
Ohio  Company,  663. 
Ohio:  history,   661  ;  name,  arms, 

list    of    governors,  descriptive, 

665  :    climate,      farming,     667; 

minerals,  668  ;  government,  670; 

education,     671  ;     newspapers, 

675  ;  chief  cities,  676  ;  railroads, 


INDEX. 

678  ;  canals,  finances,  manufac-  Oregon  question,  866. 
Orford,  Port,  Ore.,  703. 


927 


tures,  679  ;  map,  494. 

Ohio  Inst.  for  Deaf  and  Dumb, 
670. 

Ohio  River,  666,  710,  881,  882. 

Ohio  State  University,  671. 

Ohio  University,  672,  671. 

Oil  City,  Penn.,  725,  756. 

Oil-Cloth,  760. 

Oil-Refineries,  563. 

Oil-Well  Supply  Co.,  756. 

Okeechobee,  Lake,  170,  444. 

Okefinokee  Swamp,  Ga.,  180. 

Oklahoma  City,  696. 

Oklahoma  :  history,  693  ;  name, 
descriptive,  694  ;  map,  502. 

Okmulgee,  I.  T.,  251. 

Okoboji  Lakes,  Iowa,  256. 

Olcott  Mills,  847. 

Old  Colony,  340,  346. 

Old  Colony  Railroad,  369. 

Old  Dominion,  853. 

Oldest  Dwelling  House  in  the 
U.  S.,  569. 

Oldest  Mill  in  Penn.,  710. 

Old  Faithful  Geyser,  909,  911. 

Old  Gate,  St.  Augustine,  176. 

Old-Line  State,  324. 

Old  Man  of  the  Mt.,  541. 

Old  North  State,  648. 

Old  Point  Comfort,  Va.,  853. 

Old  Slater  Mill,  764. 

Old  South  Church,  366,  343. 

Old  South  Meeting  House,  366. 

Old  State  House,  Boston,  341,  343. 

Old  Stone  Mill,  Newport,  746. 

Old  Stone  Mill,  R.  I.,  765. 

Old  Swedes  Church,  145. 

Olives,  Cal.,  83. 

Oliver  Chilled  Plow  Works,  243. 

Oliver  Iron  and  Steel  Co.,  750. 

Olivet  College,  Mich.,  413. 

OluStee,  Fla.,  166. 

Olympia  State-House,  865. 

Olympic  Mts.,  Wash.,  12,  867,  869. 

Omaha  &  Grant  Smelting  Works, 
114,  528. 

Omaha  Cathedral,  526. 

Omaha  City  Hall,  529. 

Omaha,  Neb.,  522,  528,  530. 

Omaha  Nat.  Bank,  528. 

Omaha  Water  Works,  526. 

Omaha  Y.  M.  C.  A.,  524. 

Oneida  Community,  N.  Y.,  599. 

Oneida  Lake,  N.  ¥.,  585. 

Oneidas,  576,  888. 

Oneida  Salt  W'orks,  Idaho,  198. 

Onyx,  88. 

Oostenaula  River,  181. 

Opal  Glass- Ware,  757. 

Optical  Instruments,  636. 

Oquirrh  Mts.,  Utah,  834,  835,  837. 

Oraiba,  N.  M.,  570. 

Orange  Culture,  82,  171,  172. 

Orchard  Irrigation,  85. 

Ordinance  of  1787,  663. 

Ore  Docks,  Marquette,  403. 

Oregon  City,  703. 

Oregon  Emigration  Board,  708. 

Oregon  :  history,  697  ;  name, 
arms,  list  of  governors,  descrip- 
tions, 609 ;  climate,  agriculture, 
704  ;  minerals,  government,  ed- 
ucation, 705  ;  finances,  706  ; 
chief  cities,  707  ;  railway  sys- 
tem, 708 ;  map,  495. 

Oregon  National  Park,  699. 


Organs,  848. 

Orleans  Cotton  Press,  302. 

Orphan  Asylum,  Charleston,  786. 

Orleans,  Vineyard,  Cal.,  84. 

Osage  River,  Mo.,  447; 

Osborn  Hall,  Yale,  125. 

Oshkosh  School,  887. 

Ostrich  Ranches,  86. 

Oswego,  N.  Y.,  577,  580,  585,  601, 

604. 

Oswego,  Ore.,  705. 
Otsego  Lake,  583,  584. 
Otter  Creek,  Vt.,  843,  844,  846. 
Ouachita  C9llege,  Ark.,  62,  67. 
Ouachita  River,  63,  64. 
Ouray,  Col.,  112. 
Overland  Mail,  72. 
Owen's  Lake,  Cal.,  76,  77,  98. 
Owyhee  River,  Ore.,  702. 
Oysters,  229. 

Oyster  Fleet,  Crisfield,  326. 
Oyster  Packing,  Md.,  326. 
Ozark  Mts.,  445,  446,  447. 

Pabst  Brewery,  900. 

Pacific  Bank,  99. 

Pacific-Coast  Elevator  Co.,  703, 

708. 

Pacific  Grove,  Cal.,  79. 
Pacific  University,  Ore.,  706. 
Packer,  Asa,  730. 
Packer  Church,  734. 
Packer  Hall,  Lehigh  Univ.,  730. 
Packing  Oranges,  171. 
Padre  Island,  Texas,  815. 
Page,  Gov.  Carroll  S.,  846,  842. 
Pagosa  Springs,  Col.,  108. 
Pahsamari  Valley,  194. 
Paige,  John  C.,  377. 
Pain-Killer,  Perry  Davis's,  780. 
Paintings,  360,  762. 
Paint  Pots,  Wyo.,  909,  911. 
Paint  Rock,  N.  C.,  649. 
Paints  and  Fresco  Colors,  635,  688. 
Palace  Butte,  910. 
Palace  Hotel,  92. 
Palatka,  Fla.,  176. 
Palisades,  552,355. 
Palm  Canon,  Cal.,  83. 
Palmer,  A.  M.,  622. 
Palmer  Lake,  Col.,  107. 
Palmer's  Theater,  N.  Y.,  622. 
Palmetto  State,  781. 
Palo  Alto,  Cal.,  93. 
Palo-Duro  Canon,  817. 
Palo-Pinto  Bridge,  Texas,  821. 
Palouse  County,  868. 
Pamlico  Sound,  647,  648,  649. 
Pan-Handle  State,  879. 
Pan  Handle,  Texas,  816,  812,  814, 

817,  822,  825. 

Pan  Handle,  W.  Va.,  880,  881. 
Paper  Bags,  685. 
Paper  Mills,  320,  389,  390,  547,  632, 

684,  742,  847. 
Parchment  Paper,  389. 
Paris,  Idaho,  199. 
Park  City,  Utah,  836,  837,  838. 
Parke,  Davis  &  Co.,  418. 
Parkersburg  Bridge,  881. 
Parkersburg,  W.  Va.,  884. 
Park  Nat.  Bank,  612. 
Park  Range,  Col.,  109,  905. 
Park  Region,  Minn.,  422,  424. 
Park-St.  Church,  Boston,  366. 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 


928 

Parry  Mfg.  Co.,  244. 

Parsons  Paper  Co.,  389. 

Pasadena,  Cal.,  77,  97. 

Passaic  Falls,  553. 

Passamaquoddy  Bay,  318. 

Pass  Christian,  Miss.,  440. 

Pasteboard,  .684. 

Patent  Insides,  211. 

Patent  Office,  157. 

Paterson,  N.  J.,  561. 

Patroons,  577. 

Paulina  Valley,  Ore.,  701. 

Paulists,  N.  Y.,  597. 

Pawtucket,  R.  I.,  771. 

Pawcatuck  River,  R.  I.,  768. 

Payette  Lakes,  Idaho,  196. 

Payne,  David  L.,  693. 

Payne,  Fort,  Ala.,  40. 

Peabody  Education  Fund,  331, 
803,  653. 

Peabody  Institute,  Bait.,  331. 

Peabody  Museum,  124,  125. 

Peabody  Normal  College,  Tenn., 
802,  803. 

Peace  Monument,  161. 

Peach  Gathering,  Del.,  146. 

Peacock,  Hunt  &  Co.,  182. 

Peanuts,  799,  652. 

Pearl  River,  Miss.,  440. 

Peavey  (F.  H.)  &  Co.,  433,  448, 
902,  708. 

Pecos  Irrigation  and  Investment 
Co.,  574. 

Pecos  River,  N.  M.,  574. 

Pee-Dee  River,  N.  C,  782. 

Pegum-Saugum  Point,  111.,  202. 

Pelican  State,  296. 

Pembina,  N.  D.,  425,  655,  659. 

Pendleton,  Ore.,  702. 

Pend  'Oreilles,  699,  518. 

Pend  'Oreilles  Lake,  Idaho,  198. 
19.5. 

Penitentes,  N.  M.,  573. 

Pennsylvania  :  history,  709 ; 
name,  arms,  list  of  governors, 
descriptive,  716;  agriculture, 
720;  climate,  minerals,  721;  gov- 
ernment, 726;  charities  and  cor- 
rections, 727;  United-States  in- 
stitutions, 728 ;  education,  729; 
chief  cities,  735;  commerce,  rail- 
roads, 739;  canals,  740  ;  news- 
papers, 741 ;  finances,  743  ;  in- 
surance, 745 ;  manufactures, 
746 ;  map,  496. 

Penn.  Avenue,  150,  151,  152. 

Penn.  College,  730,  731. 

Penn.  Co.  for  Insurances  on 
Lives,  744. 

Penn.  Globe  Gas-Light  Co.,  755. 

Penn.  Hospital,  729. 

Penn.  Hospital,  726. 

Penn.  Mutual  Life-insurance  Co., 

Penn.  Railroad,  740. 

Penn.  Steel  Co.,  749. 

Penn.  Steel  Co.'s  Wks.,  Md.,  338. 

Penn  Treaty  Monument,  710. 

Pensacola,  165,  166,  173,  175,  176. 

Pension  Building,  D.  C.,  160,  151. 

Pensions,  17. 

Pentwell  Peak.  Wis.,  890. 

Peoria  Court  House,  213. 

Pepin,  Lake,  423,  892. 

Pequot  Tribe,  117,  120. 

Perique  Tobacco,  301. 

Perkins  School  for  Blind,  350,  357. 


Perrier  Pass,  Alaska,  46. 

Perry  Monument,  765. 

Perth  Amboy,  N.  J.,  550,  551,  556. 

Petaluma,  Cal.,  97. 

Peters  Dash  Co.,  682. 

Petit  Anse,  La.,  295. 

Petoskey,  Mich.,  415. 

Petrified  Forest,  Ariz.,  55,  57. 

Petrified  Wood,  792. 

Petroff,  Ivan,  50. 

Petroleum,  88,  in,  562,  669,  725, 

756,  882. 

Pfister  &  Vogel  Leather  Co.,  900. 
Phantom  Curve,  Col.,  108. 
Pharmacists,  418. 
Phelps  Publishing  Co.,  372. 
Philadelphia,  735. 
Phila.  Academy  of  Music,  722. 
Phila.  Custom  House,  718. 
Phila.  P.  O.,  Phila.,  727. 
Phila.,  Public  Building,  728. 
Philadelphia  Record,  741. 
Phila.  Shafting  Works,  753. 
Philip  Kearney,  N.  J.,  551. 
Phillip  Best,  900. 
Phillips  Exeter  Academy,  N.  H., 

Phoenix,  Ariz.,  58. 
Phoenix  Glass  Co.,  757. 
Phosphate  Rock,  172,  653. 
Phosphatic  Preparations,  780. 
Photographic  Art,  632. 
Phylloxera,  84. 
Piano-Lamps,  135. 
Pianos,  635,  688. 
Pickands,  Mather  &  Co.,  680. 
Pickens,  Fort,  Fla.,  166,  174,  175. 
Pickwick  Club,  N.  p.,  309. 
Pictured  Rocks,  Mich.,  410,  411. 
Piedmont,  649,  782,  784,  855. 
Piedmont  Chautauqua,  Ga.,  187, 

1 88. 

Pierre,  S.   D.,   794,  789,   792,   793. 
Pike,  Lieut.  Z.  M.,  420. 
Pike's  Peak,   Col.,   101,  102,  106, 

103,  108. 

Pike's  Peakers,  102. 
Pilgrim  Fathers,  340. 
Pilgrim  Hall,  Plymouth,  341. 
Pillars  of  Hercules,  Ore.,  698. 
Pillory,  Del.,  146. 
Pillsbury,  Charles  A.,  432. 
Pillsbury-Washburn  Flour  Mills, 

Pilot  Knob,  Mo.,  446,  447. 
Pineapples,  Fla.,  168. 
Pine  Barrens,  S.  C.,  784. 
Pine  Bluff,  Ark.,  67,  68. 
Pine  Ridge,  Neb.,  529. 
Pines,  Among  the,  Fla.,  170. 
Pine-Tree  Flag,  4. 
Pine-Tree  State,  312. 
Piney  Woods,  N.  C.,  651. 
Pinole,  Point,  Cal.,  86. 
Pipe  Lines,  Penn.,  725. 
Pipes,  Iron,  38. 
Pipestone  quarry,  427. 
Piscataqua,  N.  H.,  540. 
Pisgah,  Mount,  N.  C.,  650. 
Pitkin  &  Brooks,  232. 
Pittsburgh  and  Ohio  River,  735. 
Pittsburgh  City  Hall,  740. 
Pittsburgh  C.  H.,  720. 
Pittsburgh.  Penn.,  710,  711,  738. 
Pittsburgh  P.  O.,  721. 
Pittsfield  C.  H.,  Mass.,  345. 
Pittsfield,  Mass.,  374,  345,  346. 


Placer  Mining,  87. 

Plankinton  House,  898. 

Plateau  du  Coteau  du  Missouri, 

657. 

Plateaus,  Utah,  834. 
Plate  Glass,  245,  246,  759. 
Platte  Purchase,  Mo.,  444. 
Platte  River,  106,  523,  530. 
Plattsburg,  N.  Y.,  580,  601. 
Plattsmouth  Bridge,  529. 
Plimpton  Mfg.  Co.,  141. 
Pliocene  Bluffs,  Nev.,   536. 
Plows,  243,  290. 
Plymouth,  34 r,  340,  346. 
Plymouth  Rock,  Mass.,  341,  343. 
Pocahontas,  853. 
Poe  Monument,  333. 
Point  Clear,  Ala.,  32. 
Point  of  Rocks,  Md.,  328. 
Poland  Paper  Co.,  Me.,  320. 
Poland  Spring,  Me.,  315. 
Polk,  Tomb  of  President,  798. 
Ponca  Wigwams,  Okla.,  694. 
Ponce  De  Leon,  165,  167. 
Ponce  DeLeon,The,  St.  Aug.,  175. 
Poncho  Hot  Springs,  Col.,  108. 
Ponemah  Mills,  Conn.,  136. 
Pontchartrain,  Lake,  299,  309. 
Pontiac  Asylum,  Mich.,  406. 
Pony  Express,  72,  620. 
Poole,  R.,  &  Son,  Co;,  338. 
Pope,  Col.  Albert  A.,  140. 
Pope  Mfg.  Co.,  140. 
Population  of  chief  cities  (1890),  5. 
Population  of  U.  S.,  5. 
Pork-Packing  Houses,  383,  244. 
Portage  City,  Wis.,  892. 
Portage  Falls,  N.  Y.,  583. 
Postal  Car,  20. 
Port-Blakeley  Mills,  873. 
Porter,  Fort,  N.  Y.,  601. 
Port  Huron,  Mich.,  416. 
Portland  and   Willamette  River, 

707. 
Portland,  Chamber  of  Commerce, 

Ore.,  7C£. 

Portland  City  Hall,  319,  705. 
Portland,  Conn.,  122. 
Portland  Custom  House,  315. 
Portland,  Me.,  316,  318. 
Portland,  Ore.,  707. 
Portland  Exposition,  707. 
Portland  Harbor,  Me.,  318,  319. 
Portland  Library,  317. 
Portland  P.  O.,  Me.,  315. 
Portland, The,  Portland, Ore.,  708. 
Portland  Union  Depot,  708. 
Port-Neuf  Valley,  Idaho,  195,  199. 
Port  Royal,  S.  C.,  781,  783,  784,  788. 
Portsmouth,  N.  H.,  537. 
Postal  Cards,  391. 
Post,  Evening  N.  Y.,  625. 
Post  Falls,  Idaho,  197, 
P.  O.  Department,  20,  157,  158. 
Potomac  River,  149,  150,  326,  327, 

880. 

Pottawatomies,  888. 
Pottery,  674,  884. 

Potter  (Thomas),  Sons  &  Co.,  760. 
Potts,  Benj.  F.,   509,  510. 
Poughkeepsie.  586,  118,  604. 
Poughkeepsie  Bridge,  N.  Y.,  607. 
Powell,  Mai.  J.  W.,  56. 
Prairie  du  Chien,  Wis.,  899. 
Prairie  Farm,  Kan.,  268.. 
Prairie  Region,  13. 
Prang  (L.)  &  Co.,  361. 


Pratt  &  Letchworth,  643. 

Pratt  &  Whitney  Co.,  141. 

Pratt,  Capt.  R.  H.,  729. 

Pratt  Institute,  Brooklyn,  598, 
596. 

Pray,  John  H.,  Sons  &  Co.,  399. 

Prescott,  Ariz.,  58. 

Presidents  of  the  U.  S.,  n,  16, 15. 

Presidio  Reservation,  Cal.,  91. 

Pribiloff  Islands,  Alaska,  52. 

Prickly  Pear  Canon,  Mont.,  513. 

Prince  of  Wales,  Cape,  45,  50. 

Princeton,  N.  J.,  550. 

Princeton  College,  N.  J.,  558. 

Printed  Cotton  ^Fabrics,  760. 

Printers  for  Railroads,  628. 

Printing,  628,  631. 

Printing  House  Square,  N.  Y., 
606. 

Prints,  760. 

Proctor,  Hon.  Redfield,  842,  844. 

Proctor,  Vt.,  844. 

Produce  Exchange,  N.  Y.,  610. 

Profile  House,  N.  H.,  538,  539,  541. 

Propylaeum,  Indianapolis,  237. 

Prospectors'  Camp,  Idaho,  199. 

Providence  &  Stonington  Steam- 
boat Co.,  619. 

Providence :  from  Prospect  Ter- 
race, 771. 

Providence  High  School,  768. 

Providence  Marine  Corps,  768. 

Providence,  R.  I.,  763,  765,  771, 768. 

Providence  Station,  Boston,  369. 

ProvidenceSteam  &  Gas-Pipe  Co., 
778. 

Providence  Worsted  Mills,  776. 

Providence  Washington  Insur- 
ance Co.,  R.  I.,  773. 

Provincetown,  Mass.,  343, 347, 365. 

Provo,  Utah,  838,  835,  837,  833. 

Prune-Growing,  Cal., 82. 

Public  Building,  Phila.,  736,  728. 

Public  Lands,  24. 

Public  Land  Strip,  696. 

Public  Library,  New  London,  127. 

Public  Libraries,  362. 

Publishing  Houses,  629,  372. 

Puget  Sound,  867,  869,  870. 

Pueblo,  Col.,  113,  115. 

Pueblos,  54,  567,  568,  573. 

Pulaski,  Fort,  Ga.,  178,  186. 

Pulitzer,  Joseph,  624. 

Pullman  Building,  Chicago,  215. 

Pullman  Palace  Car  Co.,  214. 

Pumps,  141,  393. 

Purcell,  Okla.,  696. 

Purdue  Un:v.  Electrical  Lab.,  239. 

Purdue  University,  Ind.,  239,  237. 

Purgatory  River,  Col.,  106. 

Purisima,  La,  Cal.,  70. 

Puritans,  340. 

Put-in-Bay  Islands,  663,  666,  667. 

Putnam,  Fort,  N.  Y.,  18. 

Putnam  Nail  Works,  396. 

Putnam  Park,  Conn.,  118,  120. 

Putnam  Statue,  Conn.,  120. 

Puyallup  Valley,  872. 

Pyramid  Lake,  77,  532,  531,  534. 

Pyramid  Mt.,  Ore.,  699. 

Pyramid  Park,  N.  D.,  657. 

Bualla  Reserve,  N.  C.,  645. 
uartermaster's  Dpt.,    Jefferson- 
ville,  241. 

8uartz-Mining,  87. 
ueen-City  Club,  Cin.,  666. 


INDEX. 

Quicksilver,  Cal.,  87. 
Quincy,  111.,  208. 

Racine  College,  895,  896. 
Racine,  Wis.,  899. 
Railroads  of  U.  S.,  25. 
Rainbow  Falls,  N.  Y.,  585. 
Rainy  Lake,  Minn.,  424. 
Rainier,  Mt.,  866,  868,  875. 
Raisins,  Cal.,  83,  100. 
Ralegh,  Sir  Walter,  645. 
Raleigh,  N.  C.,  653,  654. 
Ramona,  78. 
Ramona    Indian    School,  N.  M., 

Rampart  Range,  Col.,  104. 

Ramparts  of  the  Yukon,  48. 

Randall's  Island,  N.  Y.,  593. 

Rapid  City,  S.  D.,  793,  794. 

Rappahannock  River,  Va.,  856. 

Raton  Hills,  Col.,  104. 

Raton,  N.  M.,  572. 

Rattlesnake  Flag,  4. 

Ravenden  Springs,  Ark.,  64. 

Rawlins,  Wyo.,  908. 

Reading,  Penn.,  738. 

Reading  P.  O.,  720. 

Reaper  Sickles,  642. 

Record  Paper,  390. 

Red  Bluff,  Cal.,  77. 

Red  Butte,  Ariz.,  55. 

Red  Cloud,  655. 

Red  Desert,  Wyo.,  905. 

Redding,  Conn.,  120. 

Red  Hills,  S.  C.,  784. 

Red  River,  248,  298. 

Red  River  of  the  North,  423,  656. 

Red  Sulphur  Springs,  882. 

Red  Wing,  Minn.,  422. 

Redwood  Fprest,  89. 

Redwood  Library,  R.  I.,  770. 

Reed  &  Barton,  380. 

Reelfoot  Lake,  Tenn.,  799. 

Refrigerator-Cars,  417. 

Reid,  Whitelaw,  626. 

Reid,  W.  T.,  Cal.,  Q4. 

Rehoboth  Beach,  Del.,  144,  145. 

Relay  House,  Md.,  324. 

Religion  in  the  United  States,  21. 

Reno,  Fort,  Okla.,  695. 

Reno,  Nevada,  536. 

Rensselaer  Polytechnic  Inst.,  597, 
596. 

Renton,  Capt.  Wm.,  873. 

Representatives,  16. 

Republican  River,  Neb.,  523. 

Revenue-Cutters,  17. 

Revenue  Flag,  n. 

Revolutionary  War,  6. 

Revolvers,  133,  381. 

R.  I.  Card  Board  Co.,  779. 

Rhode  Island:  history,  763; 
name,  arms,  list  of  governors, 
765  ;  descriptive,  766  ;  climate, 
geology,  agriculture,  767  ;  gov- 
ernment, militia,  charities  and 
corrections,  768  ;  National 
works,  education,  769  ;  popula- 
tion, chief  cities,  771  ;  finances, 
772 ;  railroads,  manufactures, 
773  ;  map,  498. 

R.  I.  Historical  Society,  770. 

R.  I.  Horse-Shoe  Co.,  778. 

R.  I.  Hospital  Trust  Co.,  772,  773. 

Rice,  182,  785. 

Rice,  Alex.  H.,  390,  346. 

Rice  &  Hutchins,  384. 


929 

Rice-Kendall  Co.,  391. 

Rice,  Wild,  803. 

Richardson,  H.   H.,  227,  308,  375, 

379,  677,  738,  846. 
Richfield,  N.Y.;  589. 
Richmond,    St.    John's    Church, 

851. 

Ridgway  Library,  Phila.,  719. 
Rifles,  133. 

Riggs  &  Co.'s  Bank,  163. 
Riley,  Fort,  Kan.,  271. 
Rincon,  Col.,  105. 
Rindge  Training  School,  373. 
Rio  Grande,  105,  106,  570,  815,811, 

812,  813,  814,  816,  818. 
Rio  Pecos,  570,  817. 
Rioville,  Nev.,  56. 
Rio  Virgen,  831,  834,  836,  838. 
Rio  Virgen,  Nevada,  533,  536. 
Rip  Van  Winkle,  584. 
Rising  Fawn  Furnace,  Ga.,  183. 
Riverside,  Cal.,  97. 
Riverside  Park,  N.  Y.,  590. 
Riverton,  Ala.,  40. 
Roach,  John,  Penn.,  739. 
Road  Carts,  244. 
Roan  Mountain,  649,  650. 
Roanoke  Island,  N.  C.,  646,  647. 
Roanoke  River,  856. 
Rochester,  N.  Y.,  580,  587,  589. 
Rockcastle  Springs,  Ky.,  277. 
Rock  City,  Tenn.,  796. 
Rockford,  111.,  207. 
Rockford  Seminary,  209. 
Rock  Island,  208,  218,  261. 
Rockledge,  Fla.,  167. 
Rockwood,  Tenn.,  800,  80 1. 
Rocky  Mts.,  13,  103. 
Rocky-Mountain  Scenery,  512. 
Rodney,  Caesar,  147,  143. 


803, 


Rogue- River  Valley,  Ore.,  700. 

Rolled  Copper,  751. 

Rollins  Chapel,  542. 

Rome,  Ga.,  177,  179,  181,  187,  189. 

Rome,  N.  Y.,  579,  604. 

Rookwood  Pottery,  674. 

Root  Mfg.  Co.,  639. 

Rope  Transmission,  243. 

Rorke,  Allen  B.,  746. 

Rosebud  River,  Mont.,  510. 

Rose  Polytechnic  Institute,  237, 

240. 

Rosewater,  Edward,  527. 
Round  Knob,  N.  C.,  649. 
Round  Top,  Texas,  816. 
Rowleysburg  Bridge,  Md.,  327. 
Royal  Gorge,  Col.,  107,  106. 
Rubber  Shoes,  382. 
Rugby,  Tenn.,  798. 
Rumford  Chemical  Works,  780. 
Rush  Across  the  Border,  Okla., 

696. 

Russell,  John,  Cutlery  Co.,  394. 
Russian  America,  43. 
Russian  Castle,  Sitka,  49. 
Russians,  366,  553. 
Rutgers  College,  N.  J.,  56°,  559- 
Rutland,  Vt.,  841,  844,  845. 

Sabine  Pass,  814,  813. 

Sabine  River,  811. 

Sackett's  Harbor,  N.  Y.,  601,  580. 

Sacramento,  Cal.,  91,  96. 


930 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 


Sacramento  Cathedral,  89. 

Sacs  and  Foxes,  Okla.,  694. 

Saddlery  Hardware,  643. 

Safes,  774. 

Safes  and  Locks,  683. 

Sage-Brush  State,  533. 

Sage  College,  595. 

Saginaw  Bay,  Mich.,  408,  407. 

Saguache  Canon,  116. 

Saguache  Range,  Col.,  104,  112. 

Sailors'  and  Soldiers'  Home,  111., 

206. 

St.  Albans,  Vt.,  845,  840,  841. 
St.-Anthony's  Falls,  423,  431. 
St.  Augustine,  Fla.,  175,  173,  169, 

165,  1 66. 

St.-Charles  Borromeo,  733. 
St.-Clair  Lake  Canal,  402. 
St.-Clair  River,  Mich,  405,  416. 
St.  Cloud,  Minn.,  427,  428. 
St.-Elias  Alps,  13. 
St.-Elias,  Mt.,  Alaska,  48. 
St.-George's  Reef,  Cal.,  78. 
St.  George,  Utah,  838,  836. 
St.-Helena,  Mount,  76. 
St.  Ignace,  Mich.,  402. 
St.-Ignatius  Church,  88. 


St. 

It 
I:: 


ohnsbury,  Vt.,  847,  845,  846. 
ohn's  Church,  D.  C.,  151,  154. 
ohn's  College,  Md.,  330,  325. 


ohn's 
ohn's 


172, 176. 


's  Hospital,  £17. 

's   River,   Fla.,   169,   171, 


St.  Joseph,  City  Hall,  448. 
St.  Joseph,  Mo.,  454. 
St.  Lawrence  River,  N.  Y.,  586. 
St.  Louis,  452,  443. 
St.-Louis  C.  H.,  447. 
St.-Louis  Exposition,  451. 
St.-Louis  Globe-Democrat,  451. 
St.-Louis  High  School,  449. 
St.     Louis,     Iron     Mountain    & 
Southern  Railroad,  6^,  64,  61,  68. 
St.  Louis  Mercantile  Library,  450. 
St.  Louis  Museum  of  Fine  Arts, 

St.  Louis  Post-Office,  446. 

St.  Louis  Statues,  445. 

St.  Louis  University,  449. 

St.  Mark's  School,  398. 

St.  Mary's  Ship-Canal,  409. 

St.  Michael,  Alaska,  47. 

St.  Michael's  and  All  Angels,  35, 

St.  Michael's  Church,  787. 

St.  Nicholas  Hotel,  Cin.,  677. 

St.   Patrick's    Cathedral,    N.   Y., 

600. 
St.  Paul  &  Tacoma  Lumber  Co., 

872-3. 

St.  Paul  from  Dayton's  Bluff,  431. 
St.  Paul  Island,  Alaska,  51. 
St.  Paul,  Minn.,  431. 
St.  Paul's  Church,  Bait.,  329. 
St.    Paul's    Church,    Charleston, 

785, 
St.    Paul's    Church,    Milwaukee, 

St.'p'aul's  School,  N.  H.,  543,  542. 
St.  Roch's  Chapel,  N.  O.,  307. 
St.  Stephen's  College,  N.  Y.,  595. 
Salem,  Mass.,  373,  340,  342. 
Salem,  Ore.,  698. 
Salisbury,  Conn.,  IS.T,  122. 
Salmon-Cannery,  Ore.,  703. 
Salmon-Falls  Bridge,  545. 
Salmon-Fisheries,  Ore.,  703. 


Salmon  Packing,  229,  703,  51. 
Salmon-River  Canon,  Idaho,  194, 

196. 

Salt,  88,  269,  406,  837. 
Salt-Lake  City  838,  831,   832,  833> 

834,  835,  836,  837,  532. 
Salt-licks,  Ky.,  279. 
Saluda  Mts.,  784. 
Sanatorium,  Jackson,  622. 
San-Antonio  City-Hall,  813. 
San  Antonio  de  Padua,  69. 
San  Antonio  P.  O.,  814. 
San  Antonio,  Texas,  825,  812,  818, 

821,  822. 

San  Bernardino,  Cal.,  100. 
Sand  Coulee,  Mont.,  516. 
Sand  Hills,  S.  C.,  784. 
San  Diego,  Cal.,  97,  92,  71,  69,  78. 
San  Diego  Harbor,  82. 
San  Diego,    Hotel  Coronado,  87, 

97- 

Sand  Key,  Fla.,  168. 
Sandstones,  669. 
Sandusky,  Ohio,  661,  667,  678,  668, 

671. 

Sandy  Hook,  N.  J.,  554,  551,  601. 
San  Fernando  Rey,  Cal.,  70. 
San  Francisco,  op,  95,  70  77,  71. 
San  Francisco  Harbor,  99. 
San  Francisco  Mint,  87. 
San  Francisco  Mts.,  Ariz.,  55. 
San  Francisco  Solano,  70. 
San  Francisco  Synagogue,  92. 
San  Gabriel  Arcangel,  69. 
San  Gabriel  Mts.,  Cal.,  76. 


San  Gabriel  Valley,  Cal.,  97. 
Sangre-de-Cristo  Range,  Col.,  104, 

105 

Sam 
San 

:ary  Commission,  581. 
acinto,  Texas,  812. 

San 

oaquin,  Cal.,  77. 

San 

oaquin  River,  77. 

San 

ose,  Cal.,  70,  79,  97,88. 

San- 

ose  Court  House,  95. 

San 

ose,  Hotel  Vendome,  79. 

San 

ose,  The  Alameda,  79. 

San- 

o  

uan  Archipelago,  870. 

San  Juan  Capistrano,  Cal.,  70,  81. 
San  Luis  Obispo,  69,  78. 
San  Luis  Park,  Col.,  105. 
San  Luis  Rey,  Cal.,  70. 
San  Miguel,  Cal.,  70. 
San-Miguel  Church,  569. 
San- Pablo  Bay,  Cal.,  77. 
"  k 


Santa  Ynez  Mts.,  Cal.,  97. 

Santee  Agency,  529. 

Santee  River,  S.  C.,  784. 

Santiam  River,  Ore. ,  708. 

Sapolio,  641. 

Saratoga  Battle  Monument,  576. 

Saratoga,  N.  Y.,  579. 

Saratoga  Springs,  N.  Y.,  589. 

Saratoga,  Wy.,  907. 

Sarony,  Napoleon,  630. 

Sarpy,  Peter  A.,  521. 

Satines,  760. 

Sault  Ste.  Marie,  409,  401. 

Sault  Ste.  Marie  Ship-Canal,  409. 

Savannah,  Ga.,  188,  192,  186,  190, 

178,  170,  1 80,  181. 
Savannah  River,  181,  784 
Savings- Banks,  20. 
Saws,  751. 
Sayles's,  W.  F.  &  F.  C.,  Bleach- 

ery,  776. 
Scales,  848. 

Schenectady,  N.  Y.,  577,  604. 
School  Books,  629. 
Schooley's  Mountain,  N.  J.,  553. 
Schroon  Lake,  N.  Y.,  584. 
Schumacher  (F.)  &  Co.,  687. 
Schuylkill  Arsenal,  Penn.,  728. 
Scott-Co.  C.  H.,  Iowa,  261. 
Scott,  Fort,  Kan.,  272,  270. 
Scott's  Bluffs,  Neb.,  523. 
Scott  Statue,  161, 162. 
Scoville  Mfg.  Co.,  138. 
Scranton,  Penn.,  738. 
Scuppernong  grapes,  652. 
Sea  Girt,  N.  J.,  557. 
Sea  Islands,  784,  785,  180,  182. 
Seal-Fisher's  Hut,  51. 
Sea  Lions,  Alaska,  51. 
Seal  Islands,  Alaska,  52. 
Seal,  The  Great,  n. 
Searcy  Springs,  Ark.,  64. 
Seattle,  876. 

Seattle  Opera  House,  876. 
Sea  View,  Wash.,  869,  871. 
Secession,  6. 
Sedalia,  Mo.,  454. 
Seeds,  641,  230,  758,  406. 
Sellers,  William,  &  Co.,  752. 
Selma,  Ala.,  40,  28. 
Seltzer  Springs,  Cal.,  89. 
Seminoles,  252,  166,  693. 
Senate,  16. 

Seneca  Lake,  N.  Y.,  585. 
Sequatchie    Valley,    Tenn.,    798, 


San-Pete  Valley,  Utah,  834,  837,      800. 

Sequoia  National  Park,  89. 
Sequoyah,  247,  250. 
Serpent  Mound,  Ohio,  661. 
Settlement  of  America,  5. 
Seventh   Reg't    Armory,   N.   Y., 

592. 
Sevier,  Ambrose  H.,  59,  67. 


San  Quentin,  Cal.,  91,  87. 

San  Rafael,  Cal.,  70,  76. 

San  Saba,  817. 

Santa  Barbara,  Cal.,  71,  78,  79,  70, 

81,  97. 

Santa-Barbara  Mission,  Cal.,  70. 
Santa-Barbara  Springs,  89. 
Santa  Catalina,  Cal.,  79. 
Santa  Clara,  Cal.,  70,  79. 
Santa  Clara  Pueblo,  N.  M.,  568. 
Santa  Cruz,  Cal.,  70,  79. 
Santa-Cruz  Mission,  71. 
Santa  F£,  574,  831,  263,  444,  567, 

571,  572,  573. 

Santa-Fe  Cathedral,  N.  M.,  573. 
Santa-Fe  Trail,  104,  264,  568. 
Santa  Gertrudes  Ranch,  828. 
Santa  Ines,  Cal.,  70. 
Santa  Monica,  Cal.,  76,  79,  92. 
Santa  Rosa,  Cal.,  79,  97. 


Sevier,  John,  796,  806. 

Sevier  Valley,  Utah,  835,  8^4,  831, 

838. 

Sewanee,  Tenn.,  796,  802,  803. 
Seward,  W.  H.,  43. 
Sewer- Pipe,  686. 
Sewing-Machines,  563,  775,  137, 
Shaddock,  172. 
Shade-Roller,  566. 
Shades  of  Death,  721. 
Shadyside  Plantation,  La.,  303. 
Shafting,  752. 
Shakers,  598. 
Shakespeare  Statue,  445. 


Sharon  Soldiers'  Mon't,  119. 
Sharon  Springs,  N.  Y.,  589. 
Shasta,  Mount,  73,  76. 
Shattuck  School,  Minn.,  429,  428. 
Shawangunk  Mts.,  584,  604,  552. 
Shaw,  Fort,  Mont,,  517. 
Shaw's  Garden,  St.  Louis,  447. 
Shaw  University,  N.  C.,  654. 
Shays'  Rebellion,  343. 
Shell  Road,  Mobile,  29,  35. 
Shell  Road,  N.  O.,  309. 
Sheep-shearing  Corrals,  197. 
Sheetings,  386. 
Sheffield,  Ala., 39. 
Sheffield  Hall,  Yale,  125. 
Sheffield  Hotel,  Ala.,  39. 
Sheffield  Land,  Iron  &  Coal  Co., 

Sheldon  Springs,  Vt.,  843. 
Shenandoah  Valley,  Va.,  855. 
Shepherd,  Alex.  R.,  150. 
Sherborn  Reformatory,  350,  352. 
Sheridan,  Fort,  111.,  208. 
Sheridan,  Mt.,  Wyo.,  910. 
Sherman,  Fort,  Idaho,  199. 
Sherman  quoted,  26. 
Sherwin-Williams  Co.,  688. 
Shillito  (John)  Co.,  Cin.,  689. 
Shiloh,  Tenn.,  796. 
Ship  Island,  Miss.,  437,  438,  439. 
Shirtings,  386. 
Shoalwater  Bay,  869,  870. 
Shoe- Factories,  320,  459,  384. 
Shoe-Fly  Tunnel,  W.  Va.,  882. 
Shorter  College,  Ga.,  187,  189. 
Short  Hills,  N.  J.,  553,  566. 
Shoshone  Falls,  Idaho,  196. 
Shoshones,  200. 
Shovels,  379. 
Shreveport,  La.,  310. 
Shrimp,  785,  816. 
Shrine,  Santa  Cruz,  N.  M.,  568. 
Shufeldt,  (H.  H.)  &  Co.,  230. 
Shultz  Belting  Co.,  460. 
Shumagin  Islands,  45. 
Shurtleff  College,  209. 
Sibley  Bridge,  Mo.,  445. 
Sibley,  H.  H.,  419,  420. 
Sickles,  690. 

Sierra  Blanca,  Col.,  104,  103. 
Sierra  Blanca,  Texas,  813. 
Sierra  Madre,  Cal.,  76,  77,  97. 
Sierra  Madre  Church,  89. 
Sierra  Nevada,  73. 
Signal  Service,  21. 
Signal  System,  755. 
Silk,  135,  136,  561,  378,  387,  86,  417, 

Sifl,3Fort,  Okla.,  695. 
Silver-Bow  Canon,  Mont.,  515. 
Silver  Gate,  Cal.,  98. 
Silver  Mines,  Cal.,  87. 
Silver- Plated  Ware,  135. 
Silver-Smiths'  Art,  634. 
Silver  Spring,  Fla.,  166,  172. 
Silver  State,  Nevada,  533. 
Silverware,  633,  135. 
Simpson  (Win.),  Sons,  &  Co.,  760. 
Singerly  Building,  722. 
Singer  Mfg.  Co.,  563. 
Sinsinnewa  Mound,  Wis.,  889. 
Sioux,  427,  509,  793,  521,  419,  421, 

655. 

Sioux  City,  Iowa,  238,  261. 
Sioux  City,  Y.  M   C.  A.,  262. 
Sioux  Falls,  S.  D.,  791,  792,  789, 

7Q2,  793,  794. 


INDEX. 

Sioux  National  Bank,  262. 
Sioux  Reservation,  790,  791,  7 
Sioux  State,  656. 
Sitka,  Alaska,  52,  49,  50,  51. 
Sitka,  Training  School,  49,  50. 
Six  Nations,  N.  Y.,  575,  578. 
Skaneateles  Lake,  N.  Y.,  585. 
Skinner,  Win.,  Mfg.  Co.,  387 
Skoot  Kali's  Totem,  Alaska, 
Slater,  John  F.,  127. 
Slater,  Samuel,  773. 
Slavery,  71. 

Sleepy  Hollow,  577,  582. 
Slope  Mine,  Ga.,  183. 
Sloss  Iron  &  Steel  Co.,  35,  36. 
Smelting  of  Jewelers'  Sweepii 


50- 


931 

Spain,  551. 

Spanish  Fort,  N.  O.,  295. 

Spanish  Peaks,  Col.,  104. 

Spar  Buoy,  24. 

Sparrow's  Point,  Md.,  338,  749. 

Spartanburg,  S.  C.,  782,  788. 

Spencer    House,    Niagara   Falls, 

587. 

Spirit  Lake,  Iowa,  254,  255,  256. 
Spiritualists,  368,  598. 
Spiritual  Temple,  First,  375. 


Smelting  Works,  114,  268. 

Smith  &  Wesson,  381. 

Smith,  Capt.  John,  340,  843,  537, 

Smith  College,  357,  356. 

Smithfield  Church,  Va.,  855. 

Smith,  Fort,  Ark.,  67. 

Smith,  Joseph,  833. 

Smithsonian  Institute,  158,  159. 

Smoky  Hill  Fork,  269,  266. 

Snake  River,  867,  869,  834,  195, 
196,  199,698,  701  702. 

Snelhng,  Fort,  Minn.,  420,  423, 
425- 

Soap,  564,  641. 

Socorro,  N.  M.,  572,  574. 

Soda,  88,  640. 

Soda  Lake,  Nev.,  533. 

Soda  Springs,  Idaho, '195. 

Soft  Steel,  750. 

Soledad,  Cal.,  7o. 

Somerset  Club,  359,  360. 

Somerville,  Mass.,  342,  344. 

Sonoma,  Cal.,  71. 

Sons  of  Liberty,  578. 

Soule,  Pierre,  293. 

Sour  Lake,  Texas,  817. 

Sour  Springs,  Texas,  817. 

South  Bend,  Ind.,  239,  243,  242. 

South  Bethlehem,  Penn.,  747. 

South  Carolina  :  history,  781  ; 
name,  arms,  list  of  governors, 
descriptive,  783  ;  climate,  farm- 
ing', 785  ;  minerals,  786  ;  govern- 
ment, education,  787  ;  railroads, 
chief  cities,  manufactures,  788  ; 
map,  499. 

South  Carolina  University,  785, 
788. 

South  Dakota :  history,  789 ; 
name,  governors,  seal,  descrip- 
tive, 790 ;  agriculture,  climate, 
minerals,  791 ;  government, 
792  ;  education,  chief  cities,  793  ; 
railroads,  794  ;  map,  500. 

Southdown  Plantation,  302. 

Southern  Bank  of  Ga.,  191. 

Southern  Bapt.  Theol.  Sem.,  284, 
288. 

Southern  California,  72,  81. 

Southern  Iron  Co.,  Tenn.,  801. 

Southern  Pacific  R.  R.,  98. 

Southern  University,  30,  34. 

South  Manchester,  Conn.,  135. 

South  Park,  Col.,  io<. 

South  Park  station,  111.,  219. 

South  Pass,  La.,  299,  831. 

South  Pass,  Wyo.,  903,  904. 

South  Side  Plantation,  304,  305. 

Spalding,  (A.  G.)  &  Bros.,  232. 


Split  Rock,  Me.,  314. 
Spokane  County,  869. 
Spokane  Falls,  Wash.,  877. 
Spokane  River,  196. 
weepings,  Sponge-Fishing,  Fla.,  169. 

Sprague,  Warner  &  Co.,  229. 
Spreckels'  Sugar    Refinery,  Phil., 

746. 
Springer  Music  Hall,  Cin.,  675. 


Springfield  Armory,  349. 
Springfield  Emery  Wheel  Co.,  140. 
Springfield  Fire  and  Marine  Ins. 

Co.,  377. 

Springfield,  111.,  207,  208,  216. 
Springfield,    Mass.,   374,  340,343, 

Springfield  Post-Office,  664. 
Spring-Hill  College,  Ala.,  32,  34. 
Springville,  Utah,  835,  837. 
Spring- Wheat  Flour,  433. 
Squire,  John  P.,  &  Co.,  383. 
Squirrel  Hunters,  Ohio,  665. 
Staats-Zeitung,  N.  Y.,  626. 
Stage-coaches,  546. 
Stagg  (Geo.  T.)  Co.,  292. 
Staked  Plain,  Texas,  570,  817. 
Stamford,  Conn.,  130. 
Stamped  Envelopes,  141,  391. 
Stampede  Pass,  Wash.,  878. 
Standard  Club,  Chicago,  205. 
Standish  Monument,  Mass.,  6, 341. 
Stansbury  Island,  Utah,  835. 
Star  Elevator,  433. 
Stark,  John,  840. 
Starr  King,  Mount,  Cal.,  74. 
Star-Spangled  Banner,  The,  323, 

95- 

Starucca  Viaduct,  Penn.,  740,  712. 

Starved  Rock  and  111.  River,  111., 
202. 

Star,  Washington,  164. 

State  Industrial  Exposition,  111., 
204. 

Staten  Island,  N.  Y.,  578,  $88. 

State  Normal  University,  111.,  203. 

State  of  Camden&  Amboy,  551. 

State,  War  and  Navy  Depart- 
ments, 156. 

Stave-Making,  298. 

Steam  and  Gas  Fittings,  225,  392. 

Steamboat  Springs,  Col.,  109. 

Steam  Engines,  774. 

Steamships,  148,  417,  739. 

Steelton,  Penn.,  749. 

Stein  Mts.,  Ore.,  701. 

Steinway  &  Sons,  635. 

Sterling  Silver,  380. 

Stetson,  John  B.,  Co.,  761. 

Stetson,  John  B.,  University,  762. 

Stevens,  Gen.  I.  I.,  865,  866. 

Stevens  Institute  of  Technology, 
556,  560. 

Stewart,  A.  T.,  N.  Y.,  598. 

Stockbridge  Indians,  888. 

Stockbridge,  Mass. ,  346. 

Stock  Exchange,  N.  Y.,  609. 


932 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OP    THE    UNITED   STATES, 


Stock  Exchange,  Old,  Phila.,  717. 

Stock-Farms,  800,  805. 

Stock  Ranche,  Idaho,  197. 

Stock  Range,  267. 

Stockton,  Cal.,  97,  82,  77. 

Stock- Yards,  86,  258. 

Stogies,  884. 

Stone  Arch  Bridge,  429. 

Stone  Bridge,  Milford,  Conn.,  119. 

Stone  Mountain,  Ga.,  180. 

Stonington,  Conn.,  130. 

Stoningtqn  Line,  369,  128,  620. 

Stony  Point,  N.  Y.,  579. 

Storer  College,  W.  Va.,  883. 

Storm  Lake,  Neb.,  522. 

Stove-Making,  644. 

Stoves,  901,  644. 

Stowe,  Vt.,  842. 

Straw  Board,  684! 

Straw-Board  Lumber,  684. 

Straw  Goods,  387. 

Street-Lighting,  755. 

Strobridge     Lithographing    Go., 

690. 

Structural  Iron  and  Steel,  750. 
Stuart,  Edwin  S.,  743. 
Studebaker  Bros.  Mfg.  Co.,  243, 

220. 

Sturtevant  (B.  F.)  Co.,  381. 
Stuyvesant,  Peter,  577,  118. 
Sub-Treasury,  N.  Y.,  626. 
Suffolk  Cordage  Co.,  388. 
Suffolk  County  Court  House,  351. 
Sugar  and  Rice  Exchange,  N.  O., 

300. 

Sugar  Factors,  305. 
Sugar  Farm,  Government,  300. 
Sugar-Houses,  305. 
Sugar  Land,  820. 
Sugar  Loaf,  Minn.,  421. 
Sugar  Plantations,  820. 
Sugar-Raising,  302. 
Sugar-River  Bridge,  544. 
Suisun  Bay,  Cal.,  77. 
Sully  &  Toledano,  305,  309,  807. 
Sulphur,  88. 
Sultan  Mountain,  103. 
Sumter,  Fort,  S.  C.,  782. 
Sunapee  Lake,  N.  H.,  541,  540. 
Sun,  Baltimore,  164. 
Sun-Dance,  I.  T.,  248. 
Sunday-School  Union,  American, 

Sunflower  State,  265. 
Sun,  New  York,  626. 
Sunnyside,  577. 
Sunset  State,  699. 
Sunshine  State,  569.        \ 
Superior,  Lake,  403,  424. 
Surprise  Valley,  Cal.,  92. 
Surveyors'  instruments,  637. 
Suspension  Bridge,  Minneapolis, 

Suspension  Bridge,  N.  Y.,  607. 
Susquehanna  Bridge,  Penn.,  713. 
Susquehanna  River,  325,  713,  719. 
Susquehanna  Valley,  717. 
Sutro  Tunnel,  Nevada,  536. 
Suwanee    River,    Fla.,   170,   181, 

167. 

Swanton,  Vt.,  842,  845. 
Swarthmore  College,  729,  731. 
Sweet-Grass  Hills,  Mont.,  512. 
Sweet  Springs,  Mo.,  448. 
Sweetwater  Dam,  Cal.,  84,  98. 
Switzerland  of  America,  880. 
Synagogue  Anshe  Maariv,  214. 


Synodical  College,  Ala.,  40. 
Syracuse  Beach,  Utah,  835. 
Syracuse,  N.  Y.,  575,  604. 
Syracuse  University,  N.  Y.,  595. 

Tacks,  395. 

Tacoma  Land  Co.,  877. 

Tacoma.  Mt.,  866,  867,  875,  13. 

Tacoma,  New  Hotel,  877. 

Taftville,  Conn.,  136. 

Tags,  391. 

Tahichipi  Pass,  Cal.,  98, 

Tahlequah,  I.  T.,  249,  250. 

Tahlequah  Seminary,  250. 

Tahoe  Lake,  74,  77,  532,  534. 

Talladega,  Ala.,  32,  34. 

Tallahassee,  Fla.,  173,  176,  174. 

Tallahatchie,  Miss.,  440. 

Tallapoosa,  Ga.,  179,  191. 

Tallapoosa  River,  30,  181. 

Tallulah  Falls,  Ga.,  181. 

Tampa  Bay,  Fla.,  167,  165. 

Tampa,  Fla.,  176. 

Taney  Monument,  Md.,  333. 

Tanneries,  228,  900. 

Taos  Pueblo,  N.  M.,  569. 

Tappan  Zee,  N.  Y.,  585. 

Tate  Epsom  Spring,  Tenn.,  802. 

Tate,  Ga.,  184. 

Taughannock  Falls,  N.  Y.,  588. 

Taylor  Cotton  Compress,  Tex., 
826. 

Taylor  (E.  H.),  Jr.,  Co.,  292. 

Taylor,  Fort,  Fla.,  175,  174. 

Taylor  (N.  &  G.)  Co.,  754. 

Tchula,  Lake,  Miss.,  440. 

Teachers'  Assembly,  N.  C.,  646. 

Technology,  Ga.  School  of,  187. 

Technology,  Mass.  Inst.,  355,  356. 

Telegraph  Hill,  84. 

Telescope,  Lick  Observatory,  93. 

Telescopes  and  Domes,  681. 

Telfair  Art  Gallery,  182,  188. 

Temple  Emanuel,  N.  Y.,  600. 

Tennessee  :  history,  795  ;  name, 
arms,  list  of  governors,  descrip- 
tive, 797  ;  climate,  farm-crops, 
799  ;  minerals,  800  ;  government, 
802  ;  common  schools,  803  ;  na- 
tional, chief  cities,  804 ;  rail- 
roads, 808  ;  manufactures,  809  ; 
map,  477. 

Tennessee  Club,  Memphis,  804. 

Tennessee  Pass,  Col.,  104,  106,112. 

Tenn.  Producers'  Marble  Co.,  801. 

Tennessee  River,  796,  798, 806,  278. 

Tennessee  Valley,  29,  30,  31,  39, 41. 

Tenney,  C.  H^  &  Co.,  639. 

Terre-Haute  Court  House,  235. 

Terre  Haute,  Ind.,  236,  238,  239, 
240. 

Teton  Range,  905. 

Texas  :  history,  8n  ;  name,  813  ; 
list  of  presidents  and  gover- 
nors, descriptive,  814 ;  climate, 
minerals,  818  ;  agriculture,  819  ; 
government,  820 ;  education, 
821  ;  United-States  institutions, 
chief  cities,  822  ;  newspapers, 
finances,  826 ;  railroads,  827  ; 
cattle-raising,  828  ;  lumber,  820  ; 
manufactories,  8p  ;  map,  503. 

Texas  &  Pacific  Railway,  310, 813, 
827,  816,  820,  821. 

Texas-Central  Railway,  828. 

Texas  Trail,  Neb.,  525. 

Texas  Tram  &  Lumber  Co.,  829. 


Texas,  University  of,  816,  821. 
Text  Books,  629. 
Thames  Bridge,  Conn.,  122,  129. 
Thames  River,   Conn.,   121,  117, 

124,  129,  130. 

Theatrical  Advertising,  690. 
Thomas  (Gen.)  Statue,  161,  162. 
Thomasville,  Ga.,  180. 
Thompson,  Daniel,  303,  304. 
Thomson-Houston   Electric    Co., 

Thousand  Islands,  N.  Y.,  584,  583, 

581,  586. 

Thousand  Wells,  Ariz.,  57. 

Thread,  135. 

Three  Brothers,  75. 

Three  Buttes,  Idaho,  195. 

Three  Forks  of  the  Missouri,  511, 

512. 

Threshing-Machines,  901. 
Threshing  Wheat,  14,  658. 
Thurber-Whyland  Co.,  640. 
Thwaites,  Reuben  G.,  895. 
Ticonderoga,  Fort,  N.  Y.,  577,  578, 

582,  839. 

Tide- Water  Oil  Co.,  562,  563. 
Tide- Water  Pipe  Co.,  562. 
Tidewater  Virginia,  854. 
Ticknor  &  Co.,  372. 
Tiffany  &  Co.,  633,  792. 
Tillamook  Light-house,  24. 
Times-Democrat,    New   Orleans, 

308. 

Times,  New  York,  624. 
Timothy  Grass,  646. 
Tin,  792. 

Tinicum,  Penn.,  709. 
Tintic,  Utah,  837. 
Tipple  and  Loading  Chute,  723. 
Tishomingp,  I.  T.,  251. 
Tivoli  Hosiery  Mills,  639. 
Tobacco,    122,   279,  301,    280,  458, 

564,  646,   652,   720,   759. 

Toccoa  rails,  Ga.,  181. 
Togus  Springs,  Me.,  317. 
Toledo  Library,  666. 
Toledo,  Ohio,  671,  678,  402. 
Toltec  Gorge,  112. 
Tombigbee  River,  30,  440. 
Tombs,  797,  798. 
Tombs,  N.  Y.,  580. 
Tombstone,  Ariz.,  58. 
Tonawanda,  N.  Y.,  408,  623. 
Tontb  Basin,  Ariz.,  57. 
Tools  and  Machinery,  141. 
Topeka  Cathedral,  264. 
Topeka,  Kan.,  269,  271. 
Topeka,  P.  O.,  269. 
Torpedo  Boats,  777. 
Torpedo-School,  R.  I.,  769. 
Totten,  Fort,  N.  D.,  657. 
Tougaloo,  Miss.,  442. 
Tower,  Minn.,  426. 
Training  School,  Naval,  769. 
Transylvania    University,     Ky., 

283. 

Travelers'  Insurance  Co.,  131. 
Traveling  Cranes,  680. 
Treasury  Department,  156. 
Treasury  St.,  St.  Aug.,  176. 
Trempealeau,  Wis.,  892. 
Trenton  Falls,  N.  Y.,  587. 
Trenton,  N.  J.,  556,  557,   558,  561, 

55°- 

Tribune,  N.  Y.,  626. 
Trinidad,  Col.,  113. 
Trinity  Church,   Boston,  367. 


Trinity  Church,  N.  Y.,  600,  598. 
Trinity  College,  Hartford,  126. 
Trinity  River,  Texas,  815,  824. 
Trinity  University,  Tex.,  822. 
Troy,  N.  Y.,  604. 
Truckee  River,  77. 
Trumbull,  Jonathan,  117,  119,  7. 
Trust  Companies,  613,  744. 
Tryon  Mountain,  N.  C.,  651. 
Tubbs  Cordage  Co.,  100. 
Tucson,  Ariz.,  58,  54,  57. 
Tufts  College,  Mass.,  356. 
Tugaloo    River,    Grand    Chasm, 

179. 

Tulane  University,  N.  O.,  307. 
Tulare  City,  Cal.,  100. 
Tulare  Lake,  Cal.,  77,  100. 
Tulsa,  Creek  Nation,  252. 
Turner,  Day  &  Woolworth,  290. 
Turpentine,  651,  784,  652. 
Turquoises,  572. 

Turtle  Mountains,  N.  D.,6s6,  657. 
Turtles,  169,  815. 
Tuscarora  Valley,  Penn.,  717. 
Tuskaloosa,  Ala.,  40,  34,  33,  30,  28, 

38- 

Tuskegee,  Ala.,  34. 
Twelfth  Regt.   Armory,   N.  Y., 

592- 

22d  Regiment  Armory,  581. 
Twin  Falls,  Idaho,  196. 
Twin  Lakes,  Col.,  107. 
Tyler-Davidson  Fountain,  667. 
Tyndall,  Mount,  Cal.,  74. 
Type-Foundry,  742. 
Type-Setting,  631. 

Uintah  Mts.,  Utah,  833,  836,  905. 
Umatilla  Valley,  Ore.,  700. 
Umpqua  River,  Ore.,  702. 
Umpqua  Valley,  Ore.,  700. 
Unaka  Mts.,  798,  802,  649. 
Unalashka,  45,  49. 
Uncle  Sam,  7. 

Uncompahgre  Mt.,  Col.,  104. 
Uncompahgre  River,  Col.,  106. 
Unga,  Alaska,  45,  49. 
Union  Baptist  Theol.  Sem.,   111., 

210. 

Union  Cotton-Seed-Oil  Mill,  301. 
Union  Defence  Committee,  581. 
Union  Depot,  Birmingham,  33. 
Union  Depot,  Providence,  772. 
Union  League,  Chicago,  205. 
Union  League  Club,  N.  Y.,  607. 
Union  League,  Phila.,  726. 
Union  Loan  &   Trust  Co.,  Sioux 

City,  262. 
Union    Metallic    Cartridge    Co., 

Conn.,  134. 
Union    Pacific    Bridge,    Omaha, 

Union  Railway  Depot,  Pueblo, 
116. 

Union  Station,  P.  F.-W.  &  C.  and 
C.,  B.  &  Q.  R.  R.,  210. 

Union  Stock-Yards,  Chicago,  213, 
212  ;  San  Francisco,  86 ;  Sioux 
City,  258  ;  South  Omaha,  525. 

Union  Theol.  Sem.,  N.  Y.,  595,  597. 

Unitarian  Building,  365. 

Unitarian  Church,  366. 

United  Bank  Building,  N.Y.,6n. 

United  States :  discovery  and 
settlement  5 ;  name  and  pet 
names,  7  ;  great  seal,  flag,  list 
of  presidents,  n  ;  description, 


INDEX. 

topographical  divisions,  12  ; 
climate,  agriculture,  minerals, 
14  ;  government,  16  ;  army, 
navy,  pensions,  revenue-cutters, 
exports,  17  ;  post-office  depart- 
ment, light  -house  board,  fi- 
nances, life  saving  service,  20  ; 
signal-service,  education,  news- 
papers, religion,  21  ;  immi- 
grants, public  lands,  centre  of 
population,  24;  railroads,  manu- 
factories, cities,  25  ;  map,  8  ; 
historical  map,  10. 

U.  S.  Grant  Univ.,  Tenn.,  804. 

U.  S.  Life-Saving  Service,  555,  20. 

U.  S.  Maps,  8,  9,  10. 

U.  S.  Military  Academy,i8,i7,  599. 

U.  S.  Naval  Academy,  17,  22,  332. 

U.  S.  Powder  Depot,  N.  J.,  558. 

U.  S.  Rolling  Stock  Co.,  37. 

United  States  Trust  Co.,  613. 

Universalism,  367. 

University  of  Ala.,  34,  38;  Cal., 
94,  92  ;  Cin.,  673  ;  Ga.,  187  ;  Har- 
vard, 353,  354;  111.,  208,  209; 
Iowa,  260  ;  Kan.,  269,  270  ; 
Mich.,  412;  Minn.,  425,  428; 
Miss.,  441,  442;  Mo.,  449,  450; 


933 


Nashville,  803  ;  Neb.,  525,  526  ; 
N.  C.,  653;  N.  D.,  659;  Notre 
Dame  (Ind.),  239,  238  ;  Ore., 
705  ;  Penn.,  729,  730,  732  ;  Roch- 
ester,^; the  South,  802,  803, 
796  ;  S.  Dakota,  793  ;  Tenn., 
802,  803  ;  City  of  N.*Y.,  593  ;  the 
Pacific,  93  ;  Vermont,  843,  845  ; 
Washington,  895;  Wis.,  892,  875; 
Yale,  124. 

Unknown  Dead,  Monument,  854. 

Ursuline  Convent,  New  Orleans, 
297. 

Utah  :  history,  831  ;  name,  832  ; 
arms,  list  of  governors,  descrip- 
tive, 833;  climate,  farming,  min- 
ing, 836  ;  government,  educa- 
tion, 837;  National  institutions, 
chief  cities,  railroads,  manufac- 
tures, 838  ;  map,  501. 

Utah  Lake,  831,  833,  834,  835. 

Utes,  838. 

Utica,  N.  Y.,  604. 

Valley  of  Virginia,  855. 
Valverde,  N.  M.,  568. 
Vancouver,  George,  865. 
Vancouver,  Wash.,  875. 
Vanderbilt  University,  802,    804, 

803. 

Van  Dusen  (G.  W.)  &  Co.,  433. 
Vassar  College,  N.  Y.,  595,  597. 
Vendome,  Hotel,  Boston,  374. 
Vendome,  Hotel,  San  Jose,  79. 
Vermillion  Cliffs,  Ariz.,  56. 
Vermillion  Falls,  Minn.,  422. 
Vermillion,  Minn.,  426. 
Vermont  :    history,    839  ;    name, 

arms,  governors,  841  ;  descrip- 

tive, 842;  climate,  farming,  843; 

quarries,      844  ;      government, 

chief   cities,     education,     845  ; 

railroads,   846  ;  mfg.  846  ;  map, 

506. 

Vermont  Marble  Co.,  844. 
Vespucius,  7. 
Veta  Pass,  Col.,  107. 
Vick,  James,  Seedsman,  641. 
Vicksburg,  Miss.,  438,  442. 


Vigilance  Committee,  72. 

Villa-Nova  College,  733. 

Vincennes  City  Hall,  236. 

Vincennes,  Ind.,  233,  234,  236,  238. 

Vmeland,  N.  J.   553,  558,  561. 

Vine-  Planting,  Cal.,  84. 

Vinita,  I.  T.,  250. 

Virginia:  history,  849;  name, 
arms,  853  ;  list  of  governors, 
topography,  854  ;  climate,  agri- 
culture, 857;  minerals,  pleasure- 
resorts,  858  ;  government,  859  ; 
Virginia  Volunteers,  United- 
States  institutions,  860;  educa- 
tion, 861  ;  railroads,  863  ;  manu- 
factures, 864  ;  map,  505. 

Virginia  City,  Nev.,  536. 

Volcanoes,  868,  48. 

Volunteer^  359. 

Volunteer  State,  797. 

Vulcanized  Rubber,  382. 

Wabash  College,  Ind.,  237,  240. 
Wabash  River,  236. 
Wachusett,  Mount,  Mass.,  346. 
Waco,  Texas,  824,  817,  822. 
Wadsworth    Athenaeum,      Hart- 

ford, 124,  127. 

Wadsworth,  Fort,  N.  Y.,6oo,  603. 
Wagon  Mound,  N.  M.,  568. 
Wagon-Wheel  Gap,  Col.,  108,  109. 
Wagon-Works,  243. 
Wahsatch  Mts.,  Utah,  833,  834,  835, 

836. 

Waitsburgh,  Wash.,  871. 
Wake  Forest  College,  N.  C.,  654. 
Wakulla  Spring;  Fla.,  172. 
Walden's  Ridge,  798,  800,  802. 
Walker  Lake,  Nevada,  531,  534. 
Walker  Oakley  Co.,  228. 
Walker  (Wm.  R.)  &  Son,  771. 
Walla  Walla,  867,  868,  869. 
Wallack,  Lester,  623. 
Walled  Lake,  Iowa,  256. 
Wallowa  Lake,  Ore.,  701. 
Wall  Street,  N.  Y.,  609,  626. 
Waltham,  Mass.,  373. 
Waltham  Watches,  380. 
Walworth  Mfg.  Co.,  392. 
Wamsutta  Mills,  386. 
Wanamaker,  John,  762. 
War  Department,  156. 
Ward's  Island,  N.  Y.,  593. 
Warner  &  Swasey,  681,  93,  124, 

1  60,  329,  357,  428. 
War  of  1812,  6. 
Warren,  Fort,  353. 
Warren,  Hail  Library,  765. 
War-Ships,  739,  723. 
Washburn  &  Moen  Mfg.  Co.,  378. 
Washburn,  C.  C.,  433,  896,  889. 
Washburn-CrosbyCo.,  433. 
Washburne,  Mt.,  910. 
Washington    and  Jefferson    Col- 

WaSfington  Bridge,   N.  Y.,  588, 

608. 

Washington,  D.  C.,  149. 
Washington  Elm,  Cambridge,  342. 
Washington,  Fort,  Md.,  333. 
Washington,  George,  15,  663,  342, 

852. 

Washington,  Martha,  149. 
Washington    Monument,   D.   C., 

160,  161. 
Washington     Mon't,    Richmond, 

856. 


934 


KING^S  HANDBOOK  OF    THE   UNITED   STATES. 


Washington,  Mount, N.H., 539,543. 

Washington  Rock,  N.  J.,  553. 

Washington's  Church,  851,  852. 

Washington's  Headquarters,  550, 
581. 

Washington  Statue,  342. 

Washington's  Tomb,  850. 

Washington  University,  Mo.,  451. 

Washington  Viaduct,  324. 

Wash.  Water-Power  Co.,  877. 

Washoe  Lake,  Nevada,  534. 

Wason  Car  Works,  381. 

Watches,  380. 

Watch-Hill  Point,  R.  I.,  766. 

Watch  Hill,  R.  I.,  772. 

Waterbury,  Conn.,  130. 

Waterbury  City  Hall,  128. 

Watermelon  Culture,  185,  183. 

Water-Tower,  Milwaukee,  893, 

Watertown,  Mass.,  341,  345,  352. 

Watertown,  N.  Y.,  604. 

Watertown,  S.  D.,  793,794. 

Water-Tube  Steam-Boilers,  565. 

Watervliet,  N.  Y.,  600. 

Water- Works,  393. 

Watkins  Glen,  N.T.,  586. 

Watterson,  Henry,  284. 

Waukesha,  Wis.,  890,  891,  895,  902. 

Wayne,  Anthony,  579. 

Wayne,  Fort,  Ind.,  234,  238. 

Wayside  Inn,  342. 

Weapons,  133,  141. 

Weather  predictions,  21. 

Webfoot  State,  699. 

Webster,  Daniel,  339,  342,  542. 

Webster's  Home,  384. 

Webster's  (Noah)  Birthplace,  119. 

Webster's  Statue,  542. 

Wellesley  College,  356,  357. 

Wells  College,  598. 

Wells,  Fargo  &  Co.,  96,  620,  97. 

Wells  (M.  D.)  &  Co.,  228. 

Wentworth  Mansion,  541. 

Wesleyan  Academy,  Mass.,  358. 

Wesleyan  Female  College,  Ga., 
187,  189. 

Wesleyan  University,  Conn.,  126. 

Wesleyan  University,  Neb.,  524. 

Westerly,  R.  J.,  767,  768. 

Western  &  Atlantic  R.  R.,  i 

Western  Cement  Works, 

Western  Reserve,  662,  668,  119. 

Western  Reserve  Univ.,  672,  673. 

West-Eureka  Colliery,  723. 

Western  Theol.  Sem.,  208,  733. 

West,  Georg«,  632. 

Westmoreland  Coal  Co.,  723,  724. 

Weston,  Byron,  Paper-Mills,  390. 

Weston,  James  A.,  539,  544. 

West  Point  Mill  Co.,  S.  C.,  786. 

W7est  Point,  N.  Y.,  599, 17, 18,  118, 
579i  585,  599- 

West  Publishing  Co.,  St. Paul,  43o. 

West  Quoddy  Light,  Me.,  312, 313. 

West  Rock,  Conn.,  121. 

West  Superior,  Wis.,  899,  902. 

West  Virginia  :  history,  879  ; 
pet  name,  arms,  list  of  gov- 
ernors, descriptive,  880;  climate, 
farms,  mineral  springs,  881  ; 
minerals,  882;  government,  edu- 
cation, 883  ;  chief  cities,  rail- 
roads, 884;  map,  505. 

West-Va.  University,  884,  883. 

Wetumpka,  Ala.,  28,  30,  33. 

Wewoka,  I.  T.,  252. 

Weyer's  Cave,  Va.,  855. 


190. 


Wharton  R.  R.  Switch  Co.,  754. 
Wheat  Raising,  658. 
Wheelbarrows,  682. 
Wheeler  &  Wilson  Mfg.   Co.,  137. 
Wheeling  Bridge,  883. 
Wheeling,  City  Buildings,  884. 
Wheeling,  P.  6.,  882. 
Wheeling,  W.  Va.,  884,  882. 
Wheel-Making,  226. 
Whetstones,  66. 
Whidby  Island,  Wash.,  870. 
Whiskey,  292,  758. 
Whiskey  Insurrection,  711. 
White-Bear  Lake,  Minn.,  422,  424. 
White  Hills,  Texas,  818. 
White,  Horace,  625. 
White  House,  D.  C.,  152,  158. 
White  House,  Va.,  852. 
White  Lead,  687. 
White-Mt.  Freezer  Co.,  548. 
White  Mountains,  Cal.,  76. 
White  Mountains,  N.  H.,  538,  539, 
White  River,  Ark.,  61,  60,  63. 
White  River,  Col.,  106. 
White-Rock  Canon,  Mont.,  514. 
White  Squadron,  23. 
White  (S.S.)  Dental  Mfg.  Co.,  759. 
White  Sulphur  Springs,  Cal.,  89. 
White  Sulphur  Springs,  881. 
Whiting,  John  L.,  &  Son,  397. 
Whiting  Mfg.  Co.,  634. 
Whitin  Machine  Works,  385. 
Whitman  &  Barnes  Co.,  642,  690. 
Whitman,  Marcus,  698. 
Whitney  Glass-Works,  564. 
Whitney,  Mount,  Cal.,  73,  74. 
Whittier,  John  G.,  128. 
Whittier  Machine  Co.,  392. 
Whitworth  College,  Miss.,  440. 
Wichita  City  Hall,  265. 
Wichita  Mountains,  Okla.,  695. 
Wichitas,  695. 
Wilderness,  Va.,  851. 
Wilkes-Barre,  Penn.,  738. 
Willamette  Bridge,  705. 
Willamette  Falls,  Ore.,  707. 
Willamette  River,  Ore.,  698,  702. 
Willamette  University,  Ore.,  705. 
Willamette  Valley,  Ore.,  700. 
Willcox  (The  James    M.)    Paper 

Co.,  742. 

Willett's  Point,  N.  Y.,  600. 
Wm.  Penn  Charter  School,  732. 
Williams  &  Wood,  Oregon,  701. 
Williamsburg,  Va.,  853. 
Williams  College,  354,  356. 
Williams,  Roger,  763,  765,  341. 
Wfllimantic  Linen  Co.,  135. 
Willoughby,  Lake,  Vt.,  842. 
Wilmington,  Del.,  147,  143,  144. 
Wilmington  C.  H.,  147. 
Wilmington  High  School,  146. 
Wilmington,  N.  C.,  647,  649,  655. 
Wilmington  P.-O.,  N.  C.,  648. 
Wilmington  Railway  Station, 148. 
Wilson's  Creek,  Mo.,  445. 
Winchester,  Conn.,  120. 
Winchester,  Mass.,  346. 
Winchester  Repeating  Arms  Co., 

i33>  *34- 

Wind  Gap,  Penn.,  719. 
Windlasses,  779. 
Wind-River  Mts.,  905. 
Windsor,  Vt.,  845.     ' 
Wine,  84,  85,  457. 
Winnebagoes,  885,  888. 
Winnebago  Lake,  Wis.,  890. 


Winnemucca  Lake,  Nev.,  533,  534. 

Winnepesaukee  Lake,  539,  540. 

Winner  Bridge,  Mo.,  452. 

Winner  Building,  Mo.,  453. 

Winner  Investment  Co.,  Mo.,  453. 

Winona,  Minn.,  428,  434. 

Winooski,  Vt.,  847. 

Winsted,  Conn.,  120,  122,  130. 

Winter  Park,  Fla.,  174. 

Winter  Quarters  of  Barnum's 
Circus,  142. 

Winthrop,  John,  339,  340. 

Winyaw  Bay,  S.  C,  784. 

Wire,  378. 

Wisconsin  :  history,  885 ;  In- 
dians, name,  arms,  list  of  gov- 
ernors, 888  ;  descriptive,  889 ; 
summer-resorts,  890 ;  climate, 
farming,  minerals,  893  ;  govern- 
ment, 894;  education,  895;  news- 
papers, 897  ;  chief  cities,  808  ; 
railways,  899 ;  finances,  manu- 
factures, 900  ;  map,  482. 

Wisconsin  Capitol,  885. 

Wisconsin  Central  R.  R.,  219,  899. 

Wisconsin  Historical  Society,  895. 

Wis.  Marine  &  Fire  Ins.  Co/s 
Bank,  900. 

Wisconsin,  newspaper,  897. 

Wisconsin  River,  892,  886. 

Wissahickon  Creek,  716. 

Wissahickon  Drive,  Phila.,  736. 

Watches'  Gulch,  WTis.,  890. 

Wizard  Island,  Ore.,  701. 

Woburn  Public  Library,  373. 

Wolverine  State,  402. 

WToman's  Medical  College,  733. 

Wood,  Brown  &  Co.,  761. 

Woodburn,  Ky.,  283,  282. 

Wood  (R.  D.)  &  Co.,  213,  565. 

Wood's  Holl,  Mass.,  354. 

Wood  Split  Pulleys,  243. 

Woodstock  College,  Md.,  330. 

Woodstock  Library,  Vt.,  843,  846. 

Wood,  Walter  A.,  Mowing  and 
Reaping  Machine  Co.,  643. 

Woolen  Fabrics,  387,  776,  246,  847. 

Worcester,  Mass.,  374. 

World  Building,  N.  Y.   624. 

Worth,  Lake,  Fla.,  176. 

Wrangell,  Mt.,  Alaska,  13,  48,  49. 

Wyandotte,  Cave,  Ind.,  234,  237. 

Wyoming  :  history,  903  ;  name, 
arms,  geography,  904  ;  climate, 
mining,  906 ;  government,  907 ; 
education,  chief  cities,railroads, 
908  ;  Yellowstone  National 
Park,  QIO«  nap,  508. 

Wyoming  Valley,  710,  712,  717. 

Yacht  Volunteer,  Mass.,  359. 
Yakima  Valley,  Wash.,  868. 
Yale  University,  125,  124. 
Yankton,  S.  D.,  704,  789,  790,  792. 
Yazoo  Delta,  Miss.,  439. 
Yellowstone  Falls,  911. 
Yellowstone  Lake,  910,  912. 
Yellowstone   Nat.  Park,  910,  104. 
Yellowstone  River,  911,  513. 
York  River,  Va.,  856. 
Yosemite  Valley,  74,  75. 
Young^,  Brigham,  831,  833,  838. 
Youth 's  Companion,  371. 
Yukon  River,  Alaska,  48,  47,  50. 
Yuma,  56,  57,  58,  88,  54,  81. 

Zion's  Coop,  Institution,  832,  838. 


ILLUSTRATIONS  OF  GREAT  GENERAL  FEATURES 


INDEXED  BY  TOPICS. 


Cities  and  Towns  : 

Albany,  N.  Y.,  609. 

Ouray,  Col.,  112. 
Pendleton,  Ore.,  702. 

Arkansas  City,  Kan.,  268. 
Ashland,  Wis.,  898. 

Pittsburgh   Pa.,  735. 
Portland,  Ore.,  707. 

Asheville,  N.  C.,  650. 
Atlar«a,  Ga.,  190. 

Poughkeepsie,  'N.  Y.,  586. 
Providence,  R.  I.,  768,  771. 

Atlantic  City,  N.  J.,  553. 
Bismarck,  N.  D.,  659. 

Provincetown,  Mass.,  343. 
Pueblos,  N.  M.,  568. 

Boise,  Ida.,  199. 

Pullman,  111    215 

Boonton,  N.  J.,  555. 

Purcell,  Okla.,  696. 

Bozeman,  Mont.,  520. 

Put-in-  Bay,  O.,  663. 

Buffalo,  N.  Y.,  608. 

Raton,  N.  M.,  572. 

Burlington,  la.,  254. 

Red  Wing,  Minn.,  422. 

Butte,  Mont.,  519. 

Riverside,  Cal.,  97. 

Cairo,  111.,  218. 

Rochester,  N.  Y.,  589. 

Chattanooga,  Tenn.,  807. 

Rock  Island,  111.,  218. 

Chicago,  111.,  217. 
Cincinnati,  O.,  676. 
Cold  Spring,  N.  Y.,  579. 
Colorado  Springs,  Col.,  102. 

St.  Paul,  Minn.,  43i. 
San  Francisco,  Cal.,  99. 
San  Jose,  Cal.,  88. 
Santa  Barbara,  Cal.,  79. 

Cumberland,  Md.,  322. 

Santa  Fe\  N.  M.,  572. 

Davenport,  la.,  254. 
Dead  wood,  S.  D.,  794. 

Seattle,  Wash.,  875,  876. 
Sioux  Falls,  S.  D.,  792. 

Denver,  Col.,  115. 

Sitka,  Alaska,  52. 

Detroit,  Mich.,  413. 

Tahlequah,  I.  T.,  249. 

Dubuque,  la.,  254. 

Taos,  N.  M.,  569. 

Duluth,  Minn.,  434. 

Tucson,  Ariz.,  58. 

Easton,  Pa.,  735. 

Tulsa,  I.  T.,  252. 

Eastport,  Me.,  318. 

Vicksburg,  Miss.,  442. 

East  Seattle,  Wash.,  875. 
El  Paso,  Tex.,  813. 

Virginia  City,  Mont.,  536. 
Waitsburgh,  Wash.,  871. 

Fargo,  N.  D.,  660. 

•Walla  Walla,  WTash.,  868. 

Fort  Benton,  Mont.,  518. 

Washington,  D.  C.,  151. 

Fort  Scott,  Kan.,  270. 

Waukesha,  Wis.,  902. 

Fort  Wrangell,  Alas.,  52. 

Westerly,  R.  I.,  768. 

Frankfort,  Ky.,  286. 

Wheeling,  W.  Va.,  882. 

Glendive,    Mont.,  519. 
Harper's  Ferry,  W.  Va.,  882. 

Williamsport,  Md.,  323. 
Wilmington,  Del.,  147. 

Hartford,  Conn.,  130. 

Yuma,  Ariz.,  88. 

Helena,  Mont.,  520. 

City  Halls  : 

Hoboken,  N.  J.,  560. 

Baltimore,  Md.,  331. 

Hot  Springs,  Ark.,  63. 
Idaho  Springs,  Col.,  in. 

Brooklyn,  N.  Y.,  603. 
Buffalo,  N.  Y.,  607. 

Jersey  City,  N.  J.,  560. 
Juneau,  Alaska,  52. 
Leaven  worth,  Kan.,  272. 

Cambridge,  Mass.,  346. 
Chicago,  111.,  217. 
Dallas,  Tex.,  815. 

Lewisburg,  Pa.,  721. 

Detroit,  Mich.,  414. 

Lewiston,  Me.,  199. 

Fall  River,  Mass.,  347. 

Little  Rock,  Ark.,  68. 

Fort  Worth,  Tex.,  815. 

Louisville,  Ky.,  285. 

Galveston,  Tex.,  825. 

Lubec,  Me.,  312. 

Grand  Rapids,  Mich.,  405. 

Madison,  Wis.,  897. 

Holyoke,  Mass.,  364. 

Marietta,  O.,  190. 

Houston,  Tex.,  823. 

Mauch  Chunk,  Pa.,  718. 

Kearney,  Neb.,  523. 

Middlesborough,  Ky.,  276. 
Milwaukee,  Wis.,  896. 

Louisville,  Ky.,  284. 
Minneapolis,  Minn.,  430. 

Mobile,  Ala.,  29. 

Nashville,  Tenn.,  799. 

Monterey,  Cal.,  78. 

New  York,  N.  Y.,  615. 

Morehead  City,  N.  C.,  646. 

North  Easton,  Mass.,  364. 

Newark,  N.  J.,  561. 

Omaha,  Neb.,  529. 

Newburgh,  N.  Y.,  609. 

Philadelphia,  Pa.,  728. 

Newport,  R.  I.,  767. 
New  York,  N.  Y.,  605. 

Pittsburgh,  Pa.,  740. 
Portland,  Me.,  319. 

Norwich,  Conn.,  129. 

Portland,  Ore.,  705. 

Oakland,  Md.,  326. 

Providence,  R.  I.,  774. 

Ogden,  Utah,  836. 
Oklahoma  City,  Okla.,  696. 

Quincy,  111.,  20}.. 
Richmond,  Va.,  857. 

St.  Joseph,  Mo.,  448. 
San  Antonio,  Texas,  813. 
San  Francisco,  Cal.,  98. 
Vincennes,  Ind.,  236. 
Waterbury,  Conn.,  \z°. 
Wheeling,  W.  Va.,  884. 
Wichita,  Kan.,  265. 
Winchester,  Mass.,  346. 
Colleges  : 

(.See  a{so  under  Universities?) 
Agricultural,  Iowa,  259. 
Agricultural,  Md.,  324. 
Agricultural,  S.  D.,  794. 
Amherst,  Mass.,  354. 
Andover  Sem.,  Mass.,  355. 
Antioch,  O.,  672. 
Battle-Creek,  Mich.,  410. 
Beloit,  Wis.,  896. 
Bethany,  W.  Va.,  884. 
Bowdoin,  Me.,  317. 
Bryn  Mawr,  Pa.,  728. 
Buchtel,  O.,  673. 
Cambridge  Episc.,  355. 
Columbia,  N.  Y.,  596, 
Dartmouth,  N.  H.,  542. 
Davidson,  N.  C.,  653. 
Fairmount,  Kan.,  265. 
Florida  Agric..  170. 
Girls'  Industrial,  Miss.,  441. 
Georgia  Technological,  187. 
Girard,  Pa.,  731. 
Hastings,  Neb.,  529. 
Hillsdale,  Mich.,  4n. 
Hiram,  O.,  672. 
Howard,  Ala.,  32. 
Iowa,  259. 
Jesuit,  La.,  310. 
Kansas  Agric. ,  267. 
Kenyon,  O.,  672. 
Lafayette,  Pa.,  735. 
Luther,  260. 
Marietta,  O.,  662. 
Mass.  Inst.  of  Technology,  355. 
Mississippi,  439. 
Montana,  517. 
Mt.  St.  Mary's,  Md.,  325. 
Oberlin,  O.,  671. 
Ouachita,  Ark.,  62. 
Peabody,  Tenn.,  802. 
Pennsylvania,  730. 
Physicians,  N.  Y.,  597. 
Princeton,  N.  J.,  558,  557. 
Racine,  Wis.,  895. 
Roanoke,  Va.,  861. 
Rutgers  N.  J.,  559. 
Sage,  N.  Y.,  595, 
St.  Ignatius,  88. 
St.  John's,  Md.,  325. 
Shorter,  Ga.,  189. 
Shurtleff,  111.,  209. 
Southern  Bapt.,  Ky.,  288. 
Spring  Hill,  Ala.,  32. 
Swarthmore,  Pa.,  729. 
Synodical,  Ala.,  40. 
Trinity,  Conn.,  126. 
Tufts,  Mass.,  356. 
Union  Theol.,  N.  Y.,  595. 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF   THE   UNITED   STATES. 


936 


Vassar,  N.  Y.,  597. 

Va.  Military  Inst.,  860. 

Wabash,  Ind.,  237. 

Wellesley,  Mass.,  356. 

Wells,  N.  Y.,  598. 

Whitworth,  Miss,  440. 

Williams,  Mass.,  354. 

Wesleyan,  Ga.,  183. 

Western  Theol.,  111.,  208. 
Court-Houses  : 

Baltimore,  Md.,  334. 

Beatrice,  Neb.,  528. 

Birmingham,  Ala.,  33. 

Boston,  Mass.,  351. 

Brooklyn,  N.  Y.,  603. 

Butte,  Mont.,  519. 

Chicago,  111.,  217. 

Cincinnati,  O.,  665. 

Columbus,  O.,  666. 

Council  Bluffs,  la.,  261. 

Dallas,  Tex.,  814. 

Davenport,  la.,  261. 

Evansville,  Ind.,  235. 

Fairfax,  Va.,  853. 

Fargo,' N.  D.,  656. 

Florence,  Ala.,  41. 

Fort  Smith,  Ark.,  62. 

Galveston,  Tex.,  819. 

Hartford,  Conn.,  132. 

Houston,  Tex.,  823. 

Huntsville,  Ala.,  34. 

Indianapolis,  Ind.,  235. 

Kansas  City,  Mo.,  448. 

Lima,  O.,  665. 

Little  Rock,  Ark.,  68. 

Louisville,  Ky.,  289. 

Milwaukee,  Wis.,  892. 

Nashville,  Tenn.,  799. 

Newark,  N.  J.,  561. 

Omaha,  Neb.,  523. 

Peoria,  111.,  213. 

Pittsburgh,  Pa.,  720. 

Pittsfield,  Mass.,  345. 

St.  Clairsville,  O.,  665. 

St.  Louis,  Mo.,  446,  447. 

San  Jose,  Cal.,  95. 

Savannah,  Ga.,  182. 

Seattle,  Wash.,  876. 

Sioux  Falls,  la.,  792. 

Terre  Haute,  Ind.,  235. 

Wichita,  Kan.,  264. 

WilmingtonJDel.,  147. 

Woodbury,  N.  J.,  551. 
Falls : 

Amoskeag,  N.  H.,  540. 

Bridal  Veil,  Cal.,  75. 

Cascade  Falls,  Cal.,  75. 

Cascades,  N.  C.,  651. 

Chipeta,  Col.,  106. 

Cumberland,  Ky.,  275. 

Genesee,  N.  Y.,  589. 

Gibbon,  Wyo.,  909. 

Glen  Ellis,  N.  H.,  541. 

Great,  Mont.,  514. 

Kanawha,  W.  Va.,88o. 

Kauterskill,  N.  Y.,  582. 

Minnehaha,  Minn.,  423. 

Mossbrae,  Cal.,  81. 

Multnomah,  704. 

Nevada,  Cal.,  75. 

New-River,  W.  Va.,  883. 

Niagara,  N.  Y.,  facing  page  i, 
627,  587. 

Passaic,  N.  J.,  553. 

Portage,  N.  Y.,  582. 

Rainbow,  N.  Y.,  585. 

Shoshone,  Idaho,  196. 


Sioux,  S.  D.,  791. 

Spokane,  Wash.,  878. 

Tallulah,  Ga.,  181. 

Toccoa,  Ga.,  181. 

Twin,  Idaho,  196. 

Vermilion,  Minn.,  422. 

Vernal,  Cal.,  75. 

Willamette,  Ore.,  707. 

Yellowstone,  Wyo.,  911,  909. 

Yo-Semite,  Cal.,  76,  75. 
Historic  Scenes  : 

Alamo,  Tex.,  812. 

Andr£  house,  576, 

Arlington,  Va.,  855. 

Bee  Hive,  Utah,  835. 

Bell  Tower,  Ga.,  178. 

Camulos,  Cal.,  78. 

Carpenters'  Hall.,  Pa.,  711. 

Cincinnati  in  1808,  668. 

Faneuil  Hall,  Mass.,  340. 

First  house,  Lincoln,  522. 

First  passenger-coach,  324. 

Fort  Putnam,  N.  Y.,  18. 

Franklin's  grave,  710. 

French  Market,  N.  O.,298. 

Gate,  St.  Augustine,  Fla.,  176. 

Grant's  Birth-place,  O.,  662. 

Grant's  headquarters,  737. 

Hawthorne's  birth-place,  342. 

Hermitage,  797. 

Independence  Hall,  Pa.,  711. 

Irving's  home,  577. 

Jamestown,  Va.,  850. 

John  Brown's  Fort,  882. 

Lexington,  Ky.,  in  1782,  274. 

Longfellow's  birth-place,  312. 

Malvern  House,  Va.,  853. 

Meade's  headquarters,  715. 

Mission  Concepcion,  Tex.,  812. 

Monterey,  Cal.,  70. 

Monticello,  Va.,  852. 

Mount  Vernon,  Va.,  850. 

New  Orleans  C.  H.,  294,  300. 

Oldest  house  in  U.  S.,  569, 

Oldest  mill  in  Penn.,  710. 

Old  State  House,  Mass.,  341. 

Penn's  House,  737. 

Santa  Barbara  Missipn,  70. 

Santa  Clara  Mission,  568. 

Santa  Cruz  Mission,  568. 

Slater  Mill,  R.  I.,  764. 

Slave  Market,  Fla.,  176. 

Spanish  Fort,  La.,  295. 

Stone  Mill,  R.  I.,  764. 

Tyler's  Home,  798. 

Washington's  Headquarters : 
Morristown  and  Mt.  Hope, 
N.  J.,  550  ;  Newburgh,  581. 

Wayside  Inn,  Mass.,  342. 

Webster's  (Noah)  Birth-place, 
119. 

Wentworth  Mansion,  541. 
Lakes  : 

Au-Sable,  N.  Y.,  585. 

Blue-Mt.,  N.  Y.,  582. 

Borgne,  La.,  299. 

Champlain,  580. 

Cayuga,  N.  Y.,  594. 

Charles,  La.,  295. 

Chicago,  Col.,  105. 

Clear,  Iowa,  2515. 

Cceur  d'Alene,  Id.,  200. 

Crater,  Ore.,  699. 

Detroit,  Minn.,  423. 

Devil's,  N.  D.,  657. 

Devil's,  Wis.,  888. 

Donner,  Cal.,  76. 


Eagle,  Me.,  313. 
Echo,  N.  H.,  538,  539- 
Erie,  663. 

Geneva,  Wis.,  890. 
George,  N.  Y.,  578. 
Great  Salt  Lake,  12, 833. 
Green,  Col.,  107. 
Greenwood,  N.  J.,  557. 
Hopatcong,  552. 
Long,  Conn.,  122. 
Luzerne,  N.  Y.,  584. 
Medical,  Wash.,  870. 
Minnesota,  421. 
Minnetonka,  420,  436. 
Mirror,  Cal.,  75. 
Moosehead,  Me.,  313. 
Moosetocmaguntic,  Me.,  314. 
Newfound,  N.  H.,  539. 
Okoboji,  Iowa,  286. 
Otsego,  N.  Y.,  583. 
Pen(fOreilles,  Id.,  195. 
Pepin,  Minn.,  892. 
Pontchartrain,  La.,  290. 
Profile,  N.  H.,  538. 
Pyramid,  Nev.,  532. 
Schroon,  N.  Y.,  584. 
Soda,  Nev.,  533. 
Spirit,  la.,  255. 
Storm,  la.,  522. 
Sunapee,  N.  H.,  541. 
Tahoe,  Cal.,  532. 
Thousand  Islands,  583,  584. 
Winnemucca,  Nev.,  533. 
Winnepesaukee,  N.  H.,  539. 
Yellowstone,  Wyo.,  910. 
Libraries  : 
Alhambra,  Cal.,  86. 
Astor,  N.  Y.,  626. 
Billings,  Vt.,  843. 
Boston,  Mass.,  362. 
Brown  University,  769. 
Buffalo,  N.  Y.,  599. 
California  Univ.,  94. 
Cambridge,  Mass.,  352. 
Carnegie,  Pa.,  733. 
Chittenden,  Yale,  125. 
Congressional,  151,  157. 
Cooper  Union,  N.  Y.,  598. 
Crane,  Quincy,  Mass.,  362. 
Dartmouth  College,  542. 
Enoch  Pratt,  Bait.,  329. 
Fitchburg,  Mass.,  373. 
Hartford,  Conn.,  124. 
Harvard  University,  353. 
Howard,  New  Or.,  308. 
Lenox,  N.  Y.,  599. 
Maiden,  Mass.,  374. 
Manchester,  Mass.,  352. 
Masonic,  Iowa,  259. 
Medical,  D.  C.,  162. 
Methuen,  Nevins,  363. 
Minneapolis,  424. 
Natural  Sciences,  Phila.,  729. 
New  London,  Conn.,  127. 
North  Easton,  Mass.,  377. 
Peabody,  Bait.,  331. 
Philadelphia,  733. 
Pittsfield,  Mass.,  345. 
Portland,  Me.,  317. 
Ridgway,  Phila  ,  719. 
St.  Louis,  Mo.,  450. 
Toledo,  O.,  666. 
Univ.  of  Pa.,  732. 
Warren,  R.  I.,  765. 
Waterbury,  Conn.,  128. 
Woburn,  Mass.,  373. 
Woodstock,  Vt.,'843. 


INDEX  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


937 


Monuments  : 

Mitchell,  N.  C.,  654. 

Johnson  Andrew   15. 

Allyn,  Conn.,  133. 
Ames,   Wyo.,  906. 

Olympic,  Wash.,  12^  869. 
Peaks  of  Otter,  Va.,  857. 

Junipero  Serra,  69. 
Kearny,  Philip,  549. 

Arlington,  Va.  ,  854. 

Pike's  Peak,  Col.,  102,  106. 

Lane,  Joseph,  697. 

Battle,  Md.,  333. 
Bennington,  Vt.,  842. 

Pilot  Knob,  Mo.,  446. 
Pisgah,  Penn.,  718. 

Lewis,  Meriwether,  193. 
Lincoln,  Abraham,  15. 

Boone,  Ky.,  274. 
Bunker-Hill,  Mass.,  340. 

Pyramid,  Ore.,  699. 
Rainier,  Wash.,  866,  875. 

Madison,  James,  15. 
Mitchell,  Alex.,  885. 

Chalmette,  La.,  296. 

Rocky,  512. 

Monroe,  James,  15. 

Clay,  Ky.,  274. 
Coif  ax,  Ind.,  234. 
Cowpens,  S.  C.,  782. 

Round  Knob,  N.  C.,  649. 
Round  Top,  Texas,  816. 
St.  Elias,  Alaska,  48,  13. 

Nye,  James  W.,  531. 
Oglethorpe,  J.  E.,  177. 
Payne,  Lewis,  693. 

Custer,  Mont.,  518. 

Shasta,  Cal.,  73. 

Penn,  Wm.,  700. 

Dade,  Fla.,  174. 

Sierra  Blanca,  Col.,  103. 

Pierce,  Franklin,  15. 

Douglas,  111.,  203. 

Sierra  Blanca,  Tex.,  813. 

Pike,  Zebulon  M.,  101. 

Foreign  Missions,  Mass.,  564. 

Sierra  Madre,  Cal.,  77. 

Polk,  James  K.,  15. 

Garfield,  O.,  674. 

Stone,  Ga.,  180. 

Ponce  de  Leon,  165. 

Grant,  N.  Y.,  17. 

Sultan,  Col.,  103. 

Potts,  Benjamin  F.,  509. 

Harvard,  Mass.,  353. 
Liberty      Enlightening     the 
World,  N.  J.,  7. 

Tacoma,  Wash.,  13,  866. 
Three  Tetons,  Wyo.,  904. 
Tryon,  N.  C.,  651. 

Ralegh,  Sir  Walter,  645. 
Red  Cloud,  655. 
Sarpy,  Peter  A.,  521. 

Lincoln,  111.,  210. 

Turtle,  N.  D.,656. 

Sequoyah,  247. 

Lion,  Barye's,  Md.,  333. 

Washington,  N.  H.,  548,  539. 

Sevier,  Ambrose  H.,  59. 

Martyrs',  N.  Y.,6oo. 

White,  N.  H.,  548. 

Seward,  Wm.  H.,  43. 

Mexican  Boundary,  Cal.,  71. 
Milford  Bridge,  Conn.,  119. 
Mormon,  257. 

Whitney.  Cal.,  73. 
Wrangell,  Alaska,  13,  48. 
Passes  : 

Sibley,  H.  H.,  419. 
Smith,  Capt.  John,  849. 
Soule,  Pierre,  293. 

National  Forefathers,  Mass.,  n. 

Alpine,  Col.,  no. 

Stark,  John,  537. 

Norumbega,  Mass.,  341. 
Obelisk,  N.  Y.,  590. 

Apache,  Ariz.,  56. 
Cumberland  Gap,  276. 

Stevens,  Isaac  I.,  865. 
Stuyvesant,  Peter,  575. 

Ogden,  Kan.,  265. 
Peace,  D.  C.,  161. 

Franconia  Notch,  N.  H.,  538,539. 
Fremont,  Col.,  104,  113, 

Taylor,  Zachary,  15. 
Trumbull,  J6nathan,  117. 

Penn,  Phila.,  710. 

Hickory  Nut,  N.C.,647. 

Tyler,  John,  15. 

Plymouth  Rock,  Mass.,  -543. 

Marshall,  Col.,  105. 

Van  Buren,  Martin,  15. 

Poe,  Md.,^. 
Ridgley,  Md.,  333. 
Saratoga,  N.  Y.,.57O 
Savannah.  Ga.,  186. 

Perrier,  Alaska,  46. 
Royal  Gorge,  Col.,  107. 
Veta,  Col.,  107. 
Wagon  Wheel,  Col.,  109. 

Washington,  George,  3,  15. 
Washington,  Martha,  149. 
Williams,  Roger,  763. 
Winthrop,  John,  339. 

Standish,  Mass.,  6. 

Water  Gap,  Pa.,  555. 

Young,  Brigham,  831. 

Star-Spangled  Banner,  Cal.,  95. 

Water  Gap,  Va.,  858. 

Rivers  :  . 

Washington,  D.  C.,  161. 

Portraits  : 

Alabama,  29. 

Washington,  Md.,  333. 
Washington,  N.  Y.,58i. 

•  Adams,  John,  15. 
Adams,  John  Quincy,  15. 

Arkansas,  68. 
Brandy  wine,  Del.,  144. 

Wildey,  Md.,  333. 

Allen,  Ethan,  839. 

Cheat,  W.  Va.,  880. 

Yorktown,  Va.,  854. 

Arthur,  Chester  A.,  15. 

Chicago,  111.,  221. 

Mountains  : 

Baltimore,  Lord,  321. 

Clarke's  Fork,  Id.,  194,  511. 

Adams,  Wash.,  870. 

Benton,  T.  H.,  443. 

Colorado,  56,  81. 

Adirondacks,  N.  Y.,  582. 

Bienville,  27. 

Columbia,  868,  699,  700. 

Alleghany,  713,  880. 
Baker,  Wash.,  13. 
Black  Hills,  790. 

Brown,  John,  263. 
Buchanan,  James,  15.    - 
Calhoun,  John  C.,  781. 

Connecticut,  121,  123,  540. 
Delaware,  555. 
Detroit,  Mich.,  407. 

Blue  Ridge,  647. 
Cesar's  Head,  S.  C.,  784. 

Campbell,  Alex.,  879. 
Campbell,  J.  A.,  903. 

French  Broad,  N.  C.,  649. 
Genesee,  N.  Y.,  583,  589. 

Catoosa,  I.  T.,  249. 

Carson,  Kit,  567. 

Green,  Wyo.,  904. 

Catskills,  N.  Y.,  579. 

Cass,  Lewis,  401. 

Homosassa,  Fla.,  169. 

Davis  Peak,  Nev.,  535. 

Chase,  Salmon  P.,  661. 

Hudson,  N.  Y.,  560,  579,  590,  609. 

Desert,  Me.,  314. 

Clark,  George  Rogers,  233. 

Humboldt,  Nev.,  534. 

Giant  of  the  Valley,  N.  Y.  ,  582. 
Gray's  Peak,  Col.,  102. 
Great  Smoky,  Tenn.,  798. 
Greylock,  Mass.,  345. 
Gypsum,  Kan.,  266. 
Hamilton,  Cal.,  93. 

Clay,  Henry,  273. 
Cleveland,  Grover,  15. 
Custer,  George  A.,  789. 
De  la  Warr,  Lord,  143. 
De  Soto,  Hernando,  795. 
Douglas,  S.  A.,  201. 

Illinois,  202. 
Indian,  Alaska,  47. 
Indian,  Florida,  167. 
Juniata,  Penn.,  712. 
Kanawha,  W.  Va.,  883. 
Linville,  N.  C.,  646. 

Highlands,  N.  Y.,  579. 

Fessenden,  W.  P.,  311. 

Marmaton,  270. 

Holy  Cross   Col.    104. 

Fillmore,  Millard,  15. 

Meramec,  Mo.,  444. 

Holyoke,  Mass.,  345. 
Hood,  Ore.,  13,  698,  699. 

Foote,  Henry  S.,  437. 
Franklin,  Benjamin,  5. 

Merrimac,  Mass.,  343. 
Mississippi,  255,  421,  444,  892. 

Humboldt,  Nev.,  534,  535. 

Fremont,  John  C.,  53. 

Missouri,  511. 

Garfield,  James  A.,  15. 

Naugatuck,  Conn.,  121. 

Katahdin,  Me.,  313 

Grant,  Ulysses  S.,  15. 

Nemaha,  Neb.,  530. 

Kennesaw,  Ga.,  180. 
Kineo  Me.   313. 

Grimes,  James  W.,  253. 
Harrison,  Benjamin,  15. 

New,  W.  Va.,  882. 
Niagara,  N.  Y.,  627,  608. 

La  Perouse,  Alas.,  47. 

Harrison,  W.  H.,  15. 

Ocklawaha,  Fla.,  r,  169. 

Long's,  Col.,  102. 
Lookout,  Tenn.,  806,  807. 
Mesa  of  Zuni,  570. 
Mission,  Mont.,  510. 

Hayes,  R.  B.,  15. 
Houston,  Sam,  Sir. 
Jackson,  Andrew,  15. 
Jefferson,  Thomas,  15. 

Ohio,  882. 
Pecos,  574. 
Platte,  Neb.,  523,  530. 
Port-Neuf,  Idaho,  195. 

KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE    UNITED   STATES. 


933 

Potomac,  323,  327,  828. 
Providence,  R.  I.,  376. 
Raritan,  N.  J.,  553. 
St.  Clair,  Mich.,  416. 
Santiam,  Ore.,  708. 
SchuyTkill,  Penn.,  716. 
Snake,  195,  196,  197,  867. 
Susquehanna,  Pa.,  323,  713. 
Suwanee,  167. 

Tennessee,  28,  41,  796,  806,  807. 
Thames,  Conn.,  123. 
White,  Ark.,  60,  61. 
Willamette,  Ore.,  707. 
Wisconsin,  886,  890. 
Wissahickon,  Pa.,  716. 
Yellowstone,  Wyo.,  909. 
Youghiogheny,  Pa.,  322. 
Rocks  : 
Arch,  Cal.,  80. 
Arch,  Mich.,  404. 
Barn  Bluff,  Minn.,  420. 
Beaver  Head,  Mont.,  512. 
Buttes  of  Columbia,  700. 
Cape  Horn,  Wash.,  868. 
Castle  Gate,  Utah,  832. 
Cathedral,  Col.,  109. 
Cathedral  Spires,  Cal.,  73. 
Cathedral  Spires,  Mo.,  444. 
Chimney,  N.  C.,  647. 
Cleopatra's  Bath,  909. 
Crag,  Rio  Virgen,  832. 
Currecanti,  Col. ,'109. 
Devil's  Slide,  Utah,  833. 
Devil's  Thumb,  Alaska,  47. 
Dalles  of  Wisconsin,  886,888,890 
Dome,  Col.,  no. 
Eagle  Cliff,  N.  H.,  538. 
Flume,  N.  H.,  538. 
Garden  of  the  Gods,  Col.,  106. 
Hawks'  Nest,  W.  Va.,  883. 
Hippopotamus,  Wyo.,  905. 
Inscription,  N.  M.,  58. 
Liberty  Cap,  Wyo.,  909. 
Linville  Gorge,  N.  C.,  648. 
Monument,  Cal.,  80. 
Natural  Bridge,  Va.,  854. 
Natural  Tunnel,  Va.,  856. 
Needle  Peaks,  Col.,  106. 
Paint,  N.  C.,  649. 
Paint  Pots,  Wyo.,  909. 
Palace  Butte,  Wyo.,  910. 
Palisades,  N.  J.,  552,  555. 
Pictured,  Mich.,  410. 
Pillars  of  Hercules,  698. 
Pivot,  Ark.,  60. 
Point  of  Rocks,  Md.,  328. 
Profile,  N.  H.,  538. 
Pulpit  Basins,  Wyo.,  909. 
Rock  City,  Tenn.,  796. 
Split,  Me.,  314. 
Sugar  Loaf,  Mich.,  404. 
Sunrise,  Tenn.,  807. 

The  Cover  Pages  Represent  Nature  in  the  North  (lining  the  front  cover),  with  the  amazing 
white  plunge  of  Niagara  Falls,  and  a  lonely  and  mountain- walled  Adirondack  lake,  the  tall  white 
pines  of  Michigan,  the  graceful  red  deer,  and  the  far-soaring  American  eagle. 

Nature  in  the  South  (facing  the  inside  front  cover),  with  a  scene  on  the  Ocklawaha  River,  in 
Florida,  surrounded  by  the  palms  and  palmettoes,  and  the  luxuriant  vegetation  of  the  semi-tropical 
States.  Here  also  appear  the  alligator  of  the  Gulf  coast  and  the  white  pelican  of  Louisiana. 

Nature  in  the  East  (facing  the  back  cover),  is  illustrated  by  an  inspiring  scene  from  the  coast  of 
Maine,  and  the  famous  Profile  (or  Old  Man  of  the  Mountain)  from  the  White  Mountains  of  New 
Hampshire.  The  great  New-England  moose  appears  in  the  foreground,  with  the  bending  fronds  of 
the  golden  rod  about  him,  and  over  all  arches  the  magnificent  American  elm. 

Nature  in  the  West  (the  last  cover-page)  is  typified  by  the  wonderful  Yosemite  Valley  of  Cali- 
fornia, the  gigantic  Sequoyahs  (or  big  trees)  of  Calaveras,  Colorado's  Mountain  of  the  Holy  Cross,  and 
the  weird  cacti  and  yucca  palms  of  Arizona.  Amid  these  scenes  appear  the  big-horn  sheep  of  the 
Sierra  Nevada,  and  the  grizzly  bear  of  the  Coast  Range. 


Starved,  111.,  202. 

Three  Brothers,  Cal.,  75. 
Soldiers'   Monuments  : 

Antietam,  Md.,  327. 

Arlington,  Va.,  854,  855. 

Augusta,  Ga.,  178. 

Bennington,  Vt.,  842. 

Buffalo,  N.  Y.,  599. 

Cleveland,  O.,  663. 

Detroit,  Mich.,  414. 

Frankfort,  Ky.,  275. 

Gettysburg,  Pa.,  715. 

Grant,  N.  Y.,  17. 

Hartford,  Conn.,  120,  129. 

Indianapolis,  Ind.,  234. 

Logansport,  Ind.,  239. 

Manchester,  N.  H.,  540. 

Memorial   Hall,  Harvard   Uni- 
versity, Mass.,  353. 

New  Haven,  Co.nn.,  120. 

Schuylerville,  N.  Y.,  576. 

Sharon,  Conn.,  119. 

Spartanburg,  S.  C.,  782. 

Wilmington,  Del.,  145. 

Yorktown,  Va.,  854. 
Statues : 

Benton,  T.  H.,  445. 

Burnside,  766. 

Cleaveland,  663. 

Colfax,  234. 

Columbus,  445,  737,  161 

Emancipation,  161. 

Farragut,  161, 576. 

Freedom,  161. 

Garfield,  162. 

Grant,  264. 

Humboldt,  445. 

Jackson,  161,  296. 

Jasper,  783. 

Juneau,  893. 

Kearny,  552, 

Lafayette,  161. 

Lee,  Robert  E.,  856. 

Leif  Ericsson,  341. 

Liberty,  7. 

Lincoln,  Abraham,  737. 

Marshall,  71. 

McMichael,  Morton,  735. 

McPherson,  161. 

Meade,  737. 

Minute  Man,  343. 

Morgan,  782. 

Morton,  234. 

Perry,  Com.,  765. 

Putnam,  Gen.,  120. 

Roger  Williams,  765. 

Scoft,  Gen.,  161. 

Shakespeare,  445. 

Taney,  333. 

Thomas,  Gen.,  161. 

Washington,  893,  856. 

Webster,  Daniel,  542. 


Universities  : 

Alabama,  38. 
Arkansas,  62. 
Baylor,  Texas,  817. 
Brown,  R.  I.,  769. 
California,  91,  94. 
Catholic,  154. 
Claflin,  S.  C.,  785. 
Colby,  Me.,  31 7. 
Columbian,  D.  C.,  153. 
Cornell,  N.  Y.,  594. 
De  Pauw,  Ind.,  238. 
Deseret,  Utah,  835. 
Fisk,  Tenn.,  803. 
Georgetown,  D.  C.,  153,  154. 
Georgia,  187. 
Harvard,  Mass.,  353,  368. 
Howard,  D.  C.,  153. 
Illinois,  208. 
111.  Normal,  203. 
Indian,  251. 
Indiana,  238. 

Johns  Hopkins,  Md.,  330. 
Kansas,  269,  270. 
Kentucky,  281. 
Lehigh,  Pa.,  730. 
Louisiana,  306. 
Michigan,  412. 
Minnesota,  425. 
Mississippi,  441. 
Missouri,  449. 
Montana,  517. 
Nebraska,  525. 
North  Carolina,  653. 
North  Dakota,  659. 
Northwestern,  111.,  208. 
Notre  Dame,  Ind.,  238. 
Oak  Cliff,  Tex.,  824. 
Ohio,  671. 
Pennsylvania,  729. 
Princeton,  N.  J.,  558. 
Purdue,  Ind.,  239,  237. 
Roger  Williams,  803. 
St.  Louis,  Mo.,  449. 
South  Carolina,  785. 
South  Dakota,  793. 
Southern,  Ala.,  30. 
South,  the,  Tenn.,  802. 
Stanford,  Cal.,  96. 
Stetson,  Fla.,  173. 
Syracuse,  N.  Y.,  596. 
Tennessee,  802. 
Texas,  816. 
Tulane,  La. ,307. 
Vanderbilt,  Tenn.,  802. 
Vermont,  843. 
Virginia,  850. 
Washington  and  Lee,  860. 
Wesleyan,  Conn.,  126. 
West  Virginia,  884. 
Wisconsin,  892. 
Yale,  Conn.,  125. 


1893  —  ADDITIONAL   STATISTICS. 


The  Elections  of  November,  1892,  have  modified  the  Statistics 
in  the  State  Chapter  Headings,  as  shown  in  the  following  Tables. 
The  changes  here  noted  bring  the -"  Handbook  "  fully  up  to  date 
as  a  Reference  Work,  the  remainder  of  the  Statistics  given  in 
each  chapter  remaining  officially  correct  as  published. 


ALABAMA.     PAGE  27. 

Total  vote  cast,  1892,  .    232,755 

For  Cleveland,      '  138,138 

For  Weaver,  85,181 

For  Harrison,  9,*97 

For  Bidwell,  239 

Congressmen,  1893, .  9 

ARIZONA.     PAGE  53. 

Total  vote  cast,  1892,  .  11,241 
For  Congress  (Dem.),  1892,  6,070 
For  l?  (Rep.),  '  5.171 
Delegates  to  Congress,  1893,  i 

ARKANSAS.      PAGE  59. 

Total  vote  cast,  1892,  .  146,752 

For  Cleveland,  .  87,834 

For  Harrison,  .  46,974 

For  Weaver,  .  11,831 

For  Bidwell,  .  "3 

Congressmen,  1893,  .  . 

CALIFORNIA.      PAGE  69. 

Total  vote  cast,  1892,   .  269,585 

For  Cleveland,              .  118,151 

For  Harrison,               .  118,027 

For  Weaver,                 .  25,311 

For  Bidwell,  ...  8,096 
Congressmen,  1893,  •  • 

COLORADO.     PAGE  1O1. 

Total  vote  cast,  1892    .  93,891 

For  Weaver,                 .  "  53>584 

For  Harrison,                .  38,620 

For  Bidwell,                  .  1,687 
Congressmen,  1893,  .     . 
CONNECTICUT.      PAGE  117. 

Total  vote  cast,  1892,   .  164,755 

For  Cleveland,              .  82,595 

For  Harrison,                .  77,°25 

For  Bidwell,                  .  4,025 

For  Weaver,  805 

For  Wing,                      .  3°5 

Congressmen,  1893,  .    .  4 

DELAWARE. 

Total  vote  cast,  1892, 
For  Cleveland, 
For  Harrison, 
For  Weaver, 
For  Bidwell, 
Congressmen,  1893, . 

FLORIDA.     PAGE  165. 

Total  vote  cast,  1892,  .  35,488 
For  Cleveland,  .  3CM34 

For  Weaver,  .        4,793 

For  Bidwell, 
Congressmen,  1893,  .    . 


PAGE  143. 

37,239 
18,578 
18,077 
571 
13 
i 


GEORGIA.     PAGE  177. 

Total  vote  cast,  1892,  .  221,593 

For  Cleveland,       "  .  129,361 

For  Harrison,  .  48,305 

For  Weaver,          "  .  42,939 

For  Bidwell,  ,       "  .  988 

Congressmen,  1893, .  .  n 

IDAHO.     PAGE  193. 

Total  vote  cast,  1892,   .  19,409 

For  Weaver,                  .  10,520 

For  Harrison,        "      .  8,599 

For  Bidwell,          "      .  288 

For  Cleveland,  2 

Congressmen,  1893,  .     .  i 

Counties, 

ILLINOIS.     PAGE  2O1. 

Total  vote  cast,  1892,  .  870,857 

For  Cleveland,  .  426,294 

For  Harrison,  .  399,288 

For  Bidwell,  .  24,590 

For  Weaver,  .  20,685 

Congressmen,  1893, .  .  22 

INDIANA.     PAGE  233. 

Total  vote  cast,  1892,  .  552,004 

For  Cleveland,  .  262,817 

For  Harrison,  .  253,929 

For  Weaver,  .  22,208 

For  Bidwell,  .      i3,°5° 

Congressmen,  1893,  .  .   '          13 

IOWA.     PAGE  263. 

Total  vote  cast,  1892,    .  443,°54 

For  Harrison,                .  219,688 

For  Cleveland,              .  196,458 

For  Weaver,                 .  20,568 

For  Bidwell,                  .  6,340 

Congressmen,  1893,  .     .  « 

KANSAS.     PAGE  263. 

Total  vote  cast,  1802,   .  323,798 

For  Weaver,                  .  163,111 

For  Harrison,                .  156,134 

For  Bidwell,                   .  4-553 
Congressmen,  1893,  .     . 

KENTUCKY.      PAGE  273. 

Total  vote  cast,  1892,   .  34°,844 

For  Cleveland,              .  175,461 

For  Harrison,                .  135,44! 

For  Weaver,                 .  23,500 

For  Bidwell,                  .  6,442 

Congressmen,  1893,  .     .  " 

LOUISIANA.      PAGE  293. 

Total  vote  cast,  1892,   .     114,186 
For  Cleveland,  .      87,622 

For  Harrison,  .'     25,332 


1,232 

6 


For  Weaver,  1892,    . 
Congressmen, . 

MAINE.     PAGE  311. 

Total  vote  cast,  1892,   .  116,358 

For  Harrison.                .  62,871 

For  Cleveland,              .  48,044 

For  Bidwell,                  .  3,062 

For  Weaver,                 .  2,381 

Congressmen,  1893,  •    •  4 

MARYLAND.      PAGE  321. 

Total  vote  cast,  1892,   .  213,275 

For  Cleveland,              .  113,866 

For  Harrison,                .  92,736 

For  Bidwell,                   .  5,877 

For  Weaver,                  .  796 

Congressmen,  1893,  .     .  6 

MASSACHUSE'S. PAGE  339. 

Total  vote  cast,  1892,    .  391,175 

For  Harrison,                .  202,814 

For  Cleveland,              .  176,813 

For  Bidwell,           "      .  7,539 

For  Weaver,                  .  3^210 

For  Wing,                      .  649 

Congressmen, ....  13 

MICHIGAN.     PAGE  401. 

Total  vote  cast,  1892,   .  459,505 

For  Harrison,                .  222,708 

For  Cleveland,             .  202,296 

For  Weaver,                  .  19,892 

For  Bidwell,                   .  14,609 

Congressmen,  1893,  .     .  12 

Counties, 

MINNESOTA.     PAGE  419. 

Total  vote  cast,  1892,    .  266,611 

For  Harrison,                .  122,736 

For  Cleveland,              .  100,579 

For  Weaver,                 .  29,279 

For  Bidwell,                  .  i4.oJ7 
Congressmen,  1893,  .     . 

MISSISSIPPI.     PAGE  437. 

Total  vote  cast,  1892,   .  52,809 

For  Cleveland,             .  40,237 

For  Weaver,                 .  10,256 

For  Harrison,                .  1,406 

For  Bidwell,                  .  910 
Congressmen,  1893,  .    . 

MISSOURI.     PAGE  443. 

Total  vote  cast,  1892,   .  540,344 

For  Cleveland,             .  268,039 

For  Harrison,               .  226,824 

For  Weaver,                 .  41^83 

For  Bidwell,                  .  4,298 

Congressmen,  1893,  .     .  >5 


i893  —  A DD1 TIONA L    STA  TIS TICS. 


57,213 
^2,256 


MONTANA.     PAGE  509. 

Total  vote  cast,  1892,  . 

For  Harrison,  .  18,851 

For  Cleveland,  .  17,581 

For  Weaver,          "  .  7,334 

For  Bidwell,  .  519 

Congressmen,  1893,  .  .  i 

NEBRASKA.     PAGE  521. 

Total  vote  cast,  1892,  .  199,314 

For  Harrison,        "  .  87,^ 
For  Weaver, 

For  Cleveland,  .  24,943 

For  Bidwell,  .  4,902 

Congressmen,  1893,  .  .  6 

NEVADA.     PAGE  531. 

Total  vote  cast,  1892,    .  10,878 

For  Weaver,                  .  7,264 

For  Harrison,                .  2,811 

For  Cleveland,      "      .  714 

For  Bidwell,                   .  89 

Congressmen,  1893,  .     .  i 

NEWHAMPSH'E.  PAGE  537. 

Total  vote  cast,  1892,   .  89,327 

For  Harrison,                .  45,658 

For  Cleveland,               .  42,081 

For  Bidwell,                   .  1,296 

For  Weaver,           "      .  292 

Congressmen,  1893,  •     •  2 

NEW  JERSEY.      PAGE  549. 

Total  vote  cast,  1892,  .  337,547 

For  Cleveland,  .  171,042 

For  Harrison,        "  .  156,068 

For  Bidwell,  .  8,131 

For  Wing,              "  .  1,337 

For  Weaver,  .  969 

Congressmen,  1893,  .  .  8 

NEW  MEXICO.      PAGE  567. 

Total  vote  cast,  1892,  .  31,019 
For  Congress  (Dem.),  .  15,799 
For  (Rep.),  .  15,220 

Delegates  to  Congress,  1893,     J 

NEW  YORK.     PAGE  675. 

Total^  vote  cast,  1892,   .1,336,942 
654,908 
609,459 
38,190 
17,956 
16,429 
34 

N.   CAROLINA.       PAGE  645. 

Total  vote  cast,  1892,   . 


For  Cleveland, 
For  Harrison, 
For  Bidwell, 
For  Wing, 
For  Weaver, 
Congressmen,  1893, 


N.    DAKOTA.      PAGE  655. 

Total  vote  cast,  1892,   .  36,092 

For  Weaver,                   .  17,676 

For  Harrison,         "      .  17,519 

For  Bidwell,          "      .  897 

Congressman,  1893,  .     .  i 

OHIO.     PAGE  661. 

Total  vote  cast,  1892,   .  850,125 

For  Harrison,  .  405,187 

For  Cleveland,  .  404,113 

For  Bidwell,           "  .  26,007 

For  Weaver,          "  .  14,818 

Congressmen,  1893,  .  .  21 

OKLAHOMA.      PAGE  691. 

Total  vote  cast,  1892,  .  21,216 
For  Congress  (Rep.),  .  9,478 
For  "  (Dem.),  .  7,390 
For  (Pro.),  .  4,348 
Delegates  to  Congress,  1893,  f 
Counties, 

OREGON.     PAGE  697. 

Total  vote  cast,  1892,   .  87,339 

For  Weaver.                  .  35,813 

For  Harrison,                .  35,002 

For  Cleveland,               .  14,243 

For  Bidwell,           "      .  2,281 

Congressmen,  1893,  .     .  2 

PENNSYLVANIA.  PAGE  709. 

Total  vote  cast, 
For  Harrison, 
For  Cleveland, 


.  1,003,010 
.  576,011 
.  452,264 
•  25,123 

8,714 


For  Cleveland, 
For  Harrison,        " 
For  Weaver,          " 
For  Bidwell, 
Congressmen,  1893,  . 


281,025 
133,098 
100,565 
44,732 
2,630 
9 


For  Bidwell, 

For  Weaver,  " 

For  Wing,  " 

Congressmen,  1893,  .  .  30 

RHODE  ISLAND.  PAGE  763. 

Total  vote  cast,  1892,  .  53,193 

For  Harrison,        "  .  26,975 

F'or  Cleveland,       "  .  24,336 

For  Bidwell,  .  1,654 

For  Weaver,           "  .  228 

Congressmen,  1893,  •  •  2 

S.  CAROLINA.      PAGE  781. 

Total  vote  cast,  1892,  .  70,492 

For  Cleveland,  .  54,698 

For  Harrison,         "  .  13,384 

For  Weaver,           "  .  2,410 

Congressmen,  1893,  .  .  7 

S.  DAKOTA.     PAGE  789. 

Total  vote  cast,  1892,  .  70.114 

For  Harrison,        '*  .  34,825 

For  Weaver,           "  .  26,382 

For  Cleveland,       "  .  8,907 

Congressmen,  1893,  •  •  2 

TENNESSEE.      PAGE  795. 

Total  vote  cast,  1892,  .  264,928 

For  Cleveland,      "  .  136,477 

For  Harrison,        "  .  99,973 


For  Weaver,  1892,    .    .  23,622 

For  Bidwell,     '        .     .  4,856 

Congressmen,  1893,  •     •  I0 

TEXAS.     PAGE  811. 
Total  vote  cast,  1892,    . 

For  Cleveland,               .  239,148 

For  Weaver,                  .  99,638 

For  Harrison,        u       .  77,475 

For  Bidwell,           "      .  2,165 

Congressmen,  1893,  .     .  13 
Counties,     ..... 

UTAH.     PAGE  831. 

Total  vote  cast,  1892,   .  34,577 

For  Congress  (Dem.), .  15,201 

For                   (Rep.),  .  12,390 

For                    (Lib.),    .  6,986 

Delegates  to  Congress,  1893,     T 

Counties, 26 

VERMONT.      PAGE  839 

Total  vote  cast,  1892,   .  55,784 

For  Harrison,        "      .  37,992 

For  Cleveland,      "      .  16,325 

For  Bidwell,           "      .  1,424 

For  Weaver.                  .  43 

Congressmen,  1893,  .     .  2 

VIRGINIA.      PAGE  849. 

Total  vote  cast,  1892,   .  292,242 

For  Cleveland,               .  163,977 

For  Harrison,                .  113,255 

For  Weaver,           "      .  12,274 

For  Bidwell,           "      .  2,736 

Congressmen,  1893,  .     .  10 

WASHINGTON.      PAGE   865. 

Total  vote  cast,  181)2,    .  87,911 

For  Harrison,         "      .  36,460 

For  Cleveland,              .  29,844 

For  Weaver,                 .  19,054 

For  Bidwell,           "      .  2,553 

Congressmen,  1893,  .     .  2 

W.  VIRGINIA.      PAGE  879. 

Total  vote  cast,  1892,   .  170,948 

For  Cleveland,               .  84,435 

For  Harrison                 .  80,252 

For  Weaver,                   .  4,116 

For  Bidwell,              '    .  2,145 

Congressmen,  1893,  .     .  4 

WISCONSIN.      PAGE   885. 

Total  vote  cast,  1892,    .  371,187 

For  Cleveland,              .  177,355 

For  Harrison,                .  170,791 

For  Bidwell,                   .  13,132 

For  Weaver,           "      .  9,909 

Congressmen,  1893,  .     .  10 

WYOMING.     PAGE  903. 

Total  vote  cast,  1892,    .  16,674 

For  Harrison,                .  8,454 

For  Weaver,          "       .  7,722 

For  Bidwell,                   .  498 

Congressmen,  1893,  .    .  i 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  OF  THE   UNITED  STATES. 

ft  A         _—• ""^TTTT^H*  "^ti.  „  >ir*T^'  ""NS  \\f 


939 


Furnished  by  the  Departments 
a,t  Washington. 

,  .  $598,000,000 

.  .    342,000,000 

.  .    172,000,000 

.  .      27,000,000 

.  .      11,000,000 

.  .        7,ooo,coo 


Corn,  .  .  . 
Wheat,  .  . 
Oats,  .  .  . 
Barley,  .  . 
Rye,  .  .  . 
Buckwheat,  . 


.  $740,000,000 
.  190,000,000 
.  245,000,000 
60,000,000 
66,000,000 
93,000,000 


Meats,      .... 

Poultry  Products, 

Butter  and  Cheese, 

Milk  Consumed,    . 

W 

Hides.  Hair,  Etc., 


Total  Anim.  Prod'ts,  $1,494,000,000 


Cotton, $293,000,000 

Market  Gardens,  .     .     .      70,000,000 

Orchard  Products,     .     .     160,000,000 

Other  Products,     .     .     .    655,000,000 

Total  Miscellaneous,  $1,178,000,000 


NATURAL  PRODUCTS  OF  THE   UNITED  STATES. 


